'TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN;

Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees

BY

E. ERNEST BILBROUGH. 

[Illustration: MAP OF THE PYRENEES(To accompany "TWIXT FRANCE & SPAIN")With the Principal Peaks, Rivers & Roads. ]

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

PAU. 

Trains and steamers--Bordeaux and its hotels--Lamothe--Morcenx--Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The hotels andpensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for thePyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The castle of Pau and itsapproaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The towers--Visitinghours--The tapestries--The wonderful bedstead--The delusivetortoiseshell cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The park--The Billèresplains--Tennis and golf--The Route de Billères and the Billèreswoods--French _sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and its oldcathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The bands--The Parc Beaumont--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The cemetery--The churches ofSt. Martin and St. Jacques--The "old world and the new"--Rides anddrives--to Bétharram--The start--Peasants and their ways--Vinestrained by the roadside--Sour grapes--The "March of the Men of Garlic"--Coarraze--Henry IV. 's Castle--Bétharram--The ivied bridge--Theinn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa--Sketching with a donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--Thedrive to Piétat--Picnicking and rejected attentions--Thechurch--Feather moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"--"Idyllic Colbert. "

CHAPTER II. 

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. 

Backward spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on theEnglish colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet'smarble works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de GrandPré--Salut Avenue and baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--Thesummit and the view--The "Castel-Mouly"--The Tapére--Mde. Cottin--MontBédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to herAsinine Steed"--Market-day--The old iron and shoe dealers--Sunday--Acat fight--The English Church--To the Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé'sSong"--Baudéan--Campan, its people and church--Wayside chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c. --Payole--The pine forest--The Cold'Aspin--The view from the Monné Rouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beatenPine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the milk!--Departures--Divinemusic--Asté--Gabrielle d'Estrelle--The ivied ruins--The church--Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The pigeon traps--The cattle market--The Jacobin tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes--Hospice Civil--Eglise des Carmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her cakes and tea--Bigorre in tears

CHAPTER III. 

LOURDES. 

The journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes station inthe wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape" andPorters--Lourdes in sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de la Grotte"--"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--TheGrotto--Abject reverence--The Church--Saint Bernard--Interior ofchurch--The panorama--Admirable effect--Rue du Fort--The castle--Theview from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels

CHAPTER IV. 

ARGELÈS. 

Road _v_. Rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôteld'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbiddenpath--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelèschurch--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regularfix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother"--A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz--Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on thePierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters andSweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette'sLamb"--Round the Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue--Soulom--The old church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--Theverger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin'stomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread andthe remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. 

CHAPTER V. 

CAUTERETS. 

Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--Theresemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zincmines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu andHôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes desOeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A gooddinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de laReine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "Exhortation to the FirstSnow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--Tothe Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, andLe Pré--Cascade de Lutour--The Marcadau Gorge--Scenery--Pic deGaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac deGaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour valley--Various excursions up same--The"Parc"--Allées de Cambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" villa--Promenade du Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--Thebishop's arrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrimsat large--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel deVille--The grocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--Thedog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all!

CHAPTER VI. 

LUZ AND BARÈGES. 

Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pontd'Enfer--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation andstatus--An old house--The ancient church of the Templars--La Chapellede St. Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. Marie--"The Jackdaw's Causerie"--A new "diet of worms"--The newbathing establishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella--Betpouey--Mill conduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of thetown--Grand Etablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. Eugénie--"The Jay of Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valleyof Lienz--Pic de Lienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountainrhododendrons--_Anemone vernalis_

CHAPTER VII. 

ST. SAUVEUR. 

Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hôtel deFrance--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel ofSolferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--Luzcemetery--Luz post-office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin àl'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds'huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerousfooting--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès insight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to thefore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathingestablishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chimingextraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale

CHAPTER VIII. 

GAVARNIE. 

A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and itsbridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--ThePiméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Loftysummits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks, "Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles--Importunate females--Hotel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or noguide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade duMarboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellousbeauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two womenenough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketchingand flowers--Tempers and appetites

CHAPTER IX. 

FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. 

A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter'sstatue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the greatpilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête atPayole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Cold'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hôtel deFrance--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wildnarcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination

CHAPTER X. 

BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. 

The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and itsgenial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame deRocher--The Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A livelyscene--The view from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen'sAppeal"--Visit to the Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. Mamet--"A stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks andjockey dodges--Lizards in flight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon'twixt France and Spain--The valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curiousinn--Children with artistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, butthankful still

CHAPTER XI. 

ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. 

Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonnevalley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of thelovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weakwalls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charminggarden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swinefeeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railwayofficials--Trying experiences

CHAPTER XII. 

EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. 

Carriage _v_. Diligence--Early birds--Height of absurdity--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystal clear"--Washerwomenand their gamps--A useful townhall--A half-way house--Moralising--Amuch-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthy strong box--"Ici onrase"--Where are the bears?--Women in gaiters--Picturesque costumes--Alovely road--A "perfect" cure--A spring scene--A billiard-playingpriest--A well-placed pavilion--The Valentin and its cascades--Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--A grand scene--Wanted, anartist--A fine torrent--Professional fishers--Lucky guests--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. Chaudes--Over theCol de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelder roses--Spinning

CHAPTER XIII. 

BIARRITZ. 

A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape--Amusements--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier androcks--A restless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--Tothe lighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The driveround the lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near thebar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo andthe Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar--Hendaye--Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa--Pasages--SanSebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "Silent Sisters"--Raisedprices--Parasols and spectacles

CHAPTER XIV. 

CONCLUSION. 

"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Ourpaths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell

 * * * * *

APPENDIX A

APPENDIX B

APPENDIX C

APPENDIX D

INDEX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

MAP OF THE PYRENEES

DAX

THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ

PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE)

THE CASTLE COURTYARD

IN THE CASTLE PARK

THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN

THE "PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE"

LOURDES (A SMALL GENERAL VIEW)

THE "OLD FORT" AT LOURDES

ON THE ROAD TO ARGELÈS

A "REGULAR Fix" (by Miss BLUNT)

A PRETTY BIT AT ARGELÈS

CAUTERETS

THE ASCENT OF THE COL DE Riou (by Miss BLUNT)

THE LAC DE GAUBE

THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE

THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF THE TEMPLARS AT LUZ

THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE

BARÈGES

ST. SAUVEUR

PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR (by Miss BLUNT)

THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE

THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE

THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER)

"ON THE TAREES ROAD"

THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY

THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN (by Miss BLUNT)

THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES

ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES

ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES

THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND (by Miss BLUNT)

IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS

CASCADE DU VALENTIN

CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE

THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES

THE PIC DE GER

THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ

THE VILLA EUGÉNIE

MRS. BLUNT'S ADVENTURE (by Miss BLUNT):--

 SCENE I. --BEFORE THE START SCENE II. --THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE SCENE III. --WHO'S MY DRIVER?

"MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'Riou'" (by Miss BLUNT)

"SEE MORNING'S GOLDEN RAYS, " &c. 

"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN"

PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS

PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE

PREFACE. 

It has been my endeavour in this volume to provide an illustratedgossiping Guide to the Spas of the Pyrenees. Unlike previous bookson the same region, it deals with the resorts in spring, when theyare most charming. A certain amount of detail--which is unavoidablein all guide-books--has been unavoidable here, and the rhymes havebeen introduced in the hope of lightening the reading. Theserhymes, as a rule, have a distinct bearing on the subject underdiscussion; but they are inserted in such a manner that the readercan omit to read them--if he objects to such frivolities--withoutlosing the sense of the prose. 

Very little really fresh information has been gained about thesebeautiful mountains since Mr. Charles Packe published his 'Guide tothe Pyrenees' in 1867: a few more springs have been discovered, afew more mountains have been successfully ascended, and the townshave gradually increased in size. There have been very few of thosemelancholy accidents that we so often hear of from Switzerland, because, probably, considerably fewer tourists attempt thesemountains than attempt the Alps. In this volume no descriptions ofscaling ice-walls, searching for the lammergeiers' nests, or anyother great feats, will be found. It contains a plain account ofwhat may be seen and done by any party visiting the mountainresorts in spring, without much trouble or fatigue; and thenarrative form has been adopted throughout. 

M. Doré's illustrations speak for themselves; and Miss Blunt'sspirited sketches are a valuable acquisition. 

The Appendices have been compiled with great care; and--at thesuggestion of an experienced M. D. --brief comments on the chiefsprings at the various Spas, and their healing properties, havebeen included in the general information. 

I beg to acknowledge my indebtedness to M. Joanne's 'Pyrenees' andMr. Black's 'Summer Resorts;' and I have also great pleasure inthanking Miss Blunt for her sketches, and my friend Mr. A. H. Crow, F. R. G. S. , for his kindly assistance in correcting inaccuracies. As, however, it is extremely difficult to completely avoid them, Ishall feel obliged for the notification of any others that mayhappen to exist. 

E. E. B. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Considering the number of English and Americans who yearly visitSwitzerland and the Riviera, it is astonishing that so few, comparatively, ever think of approaching nearer to the Pyreneesthan Pau. And it is more astonishing still, that those who havebeen enabled to enjoy the beauty of these mountains from the PlaceRoyale at Pau, should ever think of leaving their vicinity withouta more intimate acquaintance with them. 

It may be, that since the various resorts have gained celebrity forthe healing powers of their waters, healthy travellers are ofopinion that they will be surrounded by a crowd of sicklyindividuals, whose very appearance will spoil all the pleasure thatthey might otherwise experience. That this _might be_ the case _inthe season_, at a few spas, is not to be denied, but _in spring_not an invalid of that kind is to be met with, and the bathingestablishments have no customers; but the scenery is everywhere atits best. Dr. Madden writes: "The attractions of the Pyrenees arenot, however, confined to the invalid traveller, but even for thepleasure tourist offer inducements for a pedestrian excursion insome respects superior to any in Switzerland;" and there can be nodoubt that they have a beauty of their own quite distinct from thegrandeur of the Alps, and yet equally as wonderful in its style. 

Extending for nearly 300 miles from the foaming billows of theBiscay to the azure waters of the Mediterranean, they form a hugebarrier "'twixt France and Spain"; gaining their name of Pyreneesfrom the words "Pic Nérés, " which in the _patois_ of the countrysignifies "black peaks!" That this title is a misnomer for all butthree months of the year--viz. , from July to October--must bealready a well-known fact; for who would call them "black" whenclothed in their garments of snow?

The highest summits are in the Maladetta group, and the Pic Nethou(11, 170 ft. ) is the highest of all; while the average height ofthis magnificent range of mountains is between five and sixthousand feet. 

Luxurious valleys branch out in all directions, fed by the mountainstreams, and among the central heights the wonderful naturalamphitheatres known as Cirques stand in majestic solitude. TheCirque of Gavarnie--the best known--possesses on a bright day inspring such a charm, in its snowy imperial splendour, as the Alpswould fail to surpass. In scenes where a lake adds such wonderfuleffect, Switzerland is quite supreme; we know of no view in thePyrenees, of a comparable nature, that could pretend to vie withthe harmonious loveliness of the panorama that can be seen atsunset from Montreux across Lac Leman, when the water is ripplelessand the mountains are bathed in a rosy flood. But for all that, inother ways--in flower-clothed slopes, in luxurious valleys, inwinding rivers and foaming cascades--the Pyrenees present picturesthat, with the freshness of springtime to aid them, cannot fail todelight and charm. 

Four roads cross the Pyrenees from France to Spain: the RouteNationale, from Paris to Madrid _viâ_ Bayonne; the RouteDépartementale, from Bayonne to Pampeluna _viâ_ the Col d'Urdax; theRoute Nationale, from Perpignan to Barcelona _viâ_ Gerona; and theroute from Pau to Jaca _viâ_ Oloron. There are other ways of enteringSpain by the Cols (passes), but over these a horse track is thebroadest path. 

The principal bathing resorts on the French side are connected bythe splendid Route Thermale, which extends for 70 miles; but, owingto its exposed position in some parts, especially between EauxBonnes and Argelès, and Barèges and Ste. Marie, it is only whollyopen three or four months in the year!

Of the mineral springs it is sufficient to state here that, withinthe same extent of country, no other part of Europe can presentsuch a wonderful choice. There are three principal kinds--thesulphurous, the saline, and the ferruginous; and over 200 springscontribute to them. Some resorts have waters of each of theseclasses, and many have at any rate two out of the three. 

Of these, fuller information is given in the Appendix, as well asthe chief uses of each, and the affections for which they have beensuccessfully used. 

As regards sport, unattended by much labour or fatigue, thePyrenees can hardly be recommended, except perhaps for fishing. There is very good fishing in several of the rivers, but unhappilyFrench conservancy laws are so lax--if indeed they have any at all--that peasants may frequently be seen at the waterside with a rodin one hand and a capacious net in the other, so that ifunsuccessful with the first, they will at any rate not come homeempty-handed; unless some brother "sportsman" has just precededthem over the same pools!

Though the wolves have nearly all been poisoned, there are stillsome bears to shoot in winter, and izard (a species of chamois) andcapercailzie to pursue in autumn; but the "sportsmen" are many andthe game few, and the way to their haunts lies by bad andunfrequented paths; so that "le jeu ne vaut pas la chandelle. " Tothe botanist and the geologist, however, there is a splendid field, which, varying in richness according to the locality, is more orless rich everywhere; and besides these, the entomologist will notvisit this territory in vain. To the mountaineer these almostnumberless summits offer attractions of all kinds, from the woodedslope with its broad mule-path, to the ice-wall only to be scaledby the use of the rope and the hatchet. There are ascents which achild almost might attempt in safety, and there are others wherethe bravest men might well quail. 

For the ordinary pedestrian, beautiful walks abound in the vicinityof nearly every Spa, but near St. Sauveur, Luchon, Eaux Chaudes, and Argelès they are, we think, most charming. The roads on thewhole are excellent, and the hotels, with hardly any exceptions, particularly clean and comfortable; and, with the one drawback ofthe bread (see Appendix D)--which can be easily remedied--the foodis well cooked and well served. 

It must be understood that the succeeding chapters only describe--or attempt to describe--scenes that every one in moderate healthcan go and enjoy for themselves, and it is in the hope that a fewmore may be induced to visit the region about which they speak, that they have ever seen the light. For accurate information aboutthe mountains and the best means of ascending them, no betterguide-books could be wanted than Count Russell's 'GrandesAscensions des Pyrénées' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie. , Paris. ] inFrench and English, and Mr. Chas. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees';[Footnote: Longmans and Co. , London. ] while for information of allkinds Monsieur P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees, ' [Footnote: Hachette et Cie. , Paris. ] in French, could hardly be surpassed. For the ordinarytraveller Mr. Black's 'South of France Summer Resorts, Pyrenees, '&c. , is a compact and useful companion; and for guidance in mattersmedical, Dr. Madden's 'Spas of the Pyrenees' and Dr. Lee's 'Bathsof France' are exceedingly valuable. 

With these preliminary remarks we beg to refer the reader to ourexperiences of 'A Spring in the Pyrenees. '

CHAPTER I. 

PAU. 

Trains and Steamers--Bordeaux and its Hotels--Lamothe--Morcenx--Dax--Puyoo--Orthez--First impressions of Pau--The Hotels andPensions--Amusements--Pension Colbert--Making up parties for thePyrenees--The Place Royale and the view--The Castle of Pau and itsapproaches--Origin of name--Historical notes--The Towers--Visitinghours--The Tapestries--The Wonderful Bedstead--The DelusiveTortoiseshell Cradle--The "Tour de la Monnaie"--The Park--TheBillères Plains--Tennis and Golf--The Route de Billères and theBillères Woods--French _Sportsmen_--Hunting--Racing--Lescar and itsold Cathedral--Fontaine de Marnières--The Bands--The Pare Beaumont--Ballooning--The Casino--Polo--The Cemetery--The Churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques--The "Old World and the New"--Rides andDrives--to Bétharram--The Start--Peasants and their ways--Vinestrained by the roadside--Sour Grapes--The "March of the Men ofGarlic"--Coarraze--Henry IV. 's Castle--Bétharram--The Ivied Bridge--The Inn--The "Via Crucis"--Assat and Gélos--The Coteaux--Perpignaa--Sketching with a Donkey-cart--Over the Coteaux to Gan--The Drive to Piétat--Picnicking and Rejected Attentions--TheChurch--Feather Moss--Bizanos--Carnival time--"Poor Pillicoddy"--"Idyllic Colbert. "

Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, andits popularity yearly increases. Fifty years ago its Englishvisitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must bereckoned by thousands. But this is only during the winter andspring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, fewpeople in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying afterMay has passed into June. 

For many reasons it has become a favourite resort for invalids, animportant one being, its exceedingly accessible position. Notwithstanding that it is 776 miles distant from London, fewerchanges are requisite than for many a journey of less than aquarter of the distance. The quickest way from London is _viâ_Dover, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux and Dax; and as a through sleepingcarriage can be obtained from Paris to Pau, that part of thejourney is anything but formidable. For those who prefer the searoute, the fine boats of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company whichstart from Liverpool are the most preferable conveyance, though theless expensive steamers belonging to the General Steam NavigationCompany, sailing from London, are comfortable enough in fineweather. The former land their passengers at Pauillac, whence theyproceed to Bordeaux by tender or train; but the latter boats, beingsmaller, can come right up to Bordeaux, which is a decidedadvantage. 

Though the third port in France, Bordeaux can certainly not berecommended as a stopping-place unless necessity requires it, forthe hotel-keepers generally succeed in reaping a rich harvest fromtravellers passing through. 

The Hôtel de Nantes is the nearest to the quay, but the HôtelRichelieu will be found more moderate and more comfortable. In thetown, the grand Hôtel de France has the best reputation, but "birdsof passage" have apparently to pay for it, whereas old stagersconcur in saying that for _gentlemen_--especially those whoappreciate a good dinner--the best place is the Hôtel de Bayonne. 

Bordeaux has many fine buildings and objects of interest over whicha week can be easily spent, and for this length of time the hotelprices are in proportion considerably less per diem; but in winterit is especially bleak and cold, and travellers are advised to geton to Dax or Pau as quickly as possible. The railway journey of onehundred and forty-five miles to Pau occupies as a rule about sixhours, passing Lamothe, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, and Orthez. Lamothe[Footnote: See Appendix. ] (25 miles) is the junction for Arcachon, [Footnote: See Appendix. ] the celebrated winter station among thepines, situated on the shores of a landlocked bay; and Morcenx[Footnote: See Appendix. ] (68 miles), is likewise the junction forthe Tarbes line and Bigorre. 

Dax [Footnote: See Appendix. ] (92 miles) has a well-deservedreputation for its baths, and possesses several mineral bathingestablishments, of which the "Grand Etablissement des Thermes"stands first. The mud baths are perhaps more celebrated than thoseof steam or water, being especially efficacious in severe, andoften apparently otherwise incurable, cases of rheumatism. Thereare also some pleasant walks by the River Adour, and in theneighbourhood there is a bed of fossil salt. 

Puyoo [Footnote: See Appendix. ] (111-1/2 miles) is the junction forthe Bayonne line, but is without other interest. 

[Illustration: DAX. ]

Orthez [Footnote: See Appendix. ] (120-3/4 miles) is of historicinterest and possesses some noteworthy remains. M. Doré hasrepresented the Tour de Moncade, built in 1240, with mediaevalsurroundings, and not quite as it may be seen now. It was the sceneof many of Gaston Phoebus' greatest crimes. The old fourteenth-century bridge over the river, with its central tower, could tellsome tales too, if we could discover "sermons in stones"; and theplain below the town was the scene of one of Wellington's manyvictories in 1814. 

Two coaches start from Orthez, one to Salies (10 miles), celebratedfor its salt springs, and the other to Mauléon-Licharre, apicturesque spot where fine views, cascades, and ruins abound. 

[Illustration: THE TOWER OF MONCADE, ORTHEZ. ]

Passing the ancient town of Lescar (140-1/2 miles)--of which weshall have more to say later--the train is soon drawn up in thestation of Pau, and directly the traveller shows his face outside, he is hailed by the "cochers" from the various hotels in abewildering chorus. This is the same, _more_ or _less_, at everyFrench town where English people congregate, and Pau only inclines, if anything, towards the "_more_. "

The first impression conveyed when leaving the station and passingalong the Avenue de la Gare, is, that the town is mainly composedof the castle and magnificent hotels which tower above the station. This, to a certain extent, is correct, for they occupy a largearea, and the views from the windows of the hotels, as well as fromthose of the castle, are the finest in the town. Issuing from theAvenue into the "Place de la Monnaie, " the ruins of the "Mint"tower, and above them the castle itself, come into full view, afterwhich the road continues along the Rue Marca for a short distance, branching afterwards to the right into the most ancient square ofthe town, the Place Grammont. 

The hotels de la Poste and Henri IV. Are here situated, but theroads to the various other hotels and pensions diverge in differentdirections. To the right up the Rue Bordenave and along the RueHenri IV. Is the route to all the finest hotels, of which the"France" is the best, and the "Gassion" the most imposing; theothers are the Belle Vue, Splendide, Beau Séjour, and de la Paix, all with the exception of the last possessing the magnificentmountain view, but although from the windows of the "Paix" only aside glimpse can be obtained, yet at the same time this hotel facesthe "Place Royale, " the popular resort of all classes in Pau. Fromthe left-hand corner of the Place Grammont a narrow street leads tothe fine church of St. Jacques, which is also the nearest way tothe grand Hôtel Continental near Trinity Church, and the PensionHattersly in the Rue Porte Neuve. But the route more to the leftstill, leading up the hill and joining the Route de Bordeaux, pastthe Haute Plante parade ground, is the usual one followed, especially for the Pensions--Lecour, Nogués, and Maison Pieté inthe Rue d'Orléans; Pension Etcherbest, in the Passage Planté Hôtelde Londres, on the route de Billères; and Maison Colbert, in theRue Montpensier. 

Well knowing the comfort of a good pension, and intending to make along stay, we drove straight from the station to the well-knownMaison Colbert, and were soon as comfortable as we could wish. There are many people we are aware who detest "pensions. " "We don'tapprove, " say they, "of meals at fixed hours, of a drawing-roomcommon to all, and of such a small house that everybody must knoweveryone else before the first dinner is over!" Well! why shouldthey? They can go to the hotels; but let all those who aresuffering or delicate put away thin-skinned feelings ofsuperiority, till they have a good enough constitution to supportthem, and in the meantime seek peace and kindness, such as may beexperienced at the Pension Colbert. 

If, on the other hand, it can be taken as a criterion that thoseliving in hotels are not invalids, then the visitor contingent ofPau must consist principally of healthy people, who prefer a goodclimate and lively society to the attractions that England andAmerica have to offer from October to May. This is hardly correct, but there can be no doubt that more than half the foreigners[Footnote: From the French standpoint--i. E. , English and American. ]who come for that period, do so for comfort and pleasure alone. Andit is not to be wondered at. Who, that was untrammelled by thecares of business, or shortened purse-strings, but would not gladlyexchange the bill of fare England has to offer, of London fogs, east winds, Scotch mists, and Irish dynamite, for the handsome menuawaiting him at Pau? Drives, kettledrums, dinners, balls, lawntennis, polo, pigeon-shooting, golf, racing and hunting; and, if heparticularly wishes it, a balloon ascent as well. This last-namedis an expensive pleasure, as the aeronaut, judging by the prices onthe bill, requires a substantial fee, and it is besides anamusement life insurance companies do not readily countenance. 

Of course, if one comes to Pau merely for enjoyment, hotel life maybe preferable to that in a pension, though our experiences of thelatter mode have been very pleasant ones. It is so easy to make upa small party for a drive or a picnic, and being all in one housethere is but little chance of any mishaps before starting, such asindividuals forgetting the time that had been fixed and keeping therest waiting. Above all, when planning a tour into the Pyrenees, itis essentially necessary to form a party of some sort, if the tripis to be carried out in the spring; for although, as we shallendeavour to show later, the scenery is then at its best, still, since it is not _the_ season, only one or two hotels are open ineach resort, and society is "nil. "

Then further, when people are going to travel in company forseveral weeks it is well that at least they should know somethingof one another, for if they all commenced "pulling different ways"up in the mountains, the safety, or at any rate the composure ofeach, would be likely to suffer. My own relations, who were with meat first, left for England long before the mountain trip wasarranged, but we made up a very pleasant quartette before the timefor starting arrived, and accordingly visited Pau in company aswell as the mountains. This quartette consisted of Mrs. And MissBlunt, Mr. Sydney and myself, and though it will be seen bysubsequent chapters that the trio decided on staying a fortnight atBiarritz in preference to following my example and spending thetime at Bagnères de Bigorre, yet we made arrangements to meeteither at Lourdes or Argelès and thenceforward to travel incompany. 

To see Pau in its beauty, winter must have given place to spring. When the grass once more begins to grow, the trees to unfold theirtender leaves, the rivers to swell, and the birds to sing; whileyet the sun's rays cannot pierce the snowy garment on the distantheights; then Pau is in her beauty. Passing--as we so often passed--down the Rue Montpensier and the consecutive Rue Serviez, into theRue du Lycée, then turning from it to the right for a shortdistance, till, with the English club at the corner on our left, weturned into the Place Royale, and, with the fine theatre frowningon our backs, quickly made our way between the rows of plane-trees, but just uncurling their leaves, to the terrace whence the wholeenormous expanse of mountain can be viewed, our admiration at themagnificent scene unfolded before us never diminished. But ourfavourite time was at sunset, especially one of those warm ruddysunsets that tint the heavens like a superb red canopy. 

Then, leaning on the terrace wall, we admired in silence. Beneathus lay part of the town and the railway station, the river beyond, in one part divided and slowly flowing over its stony bed among thealder bushes; at another, gathered together again, rushingfuriously along as though impatient to lose itself for ever in thedepths of the ocean. 

[Illustration: PAU (FROM THE JURANÇON SIDE OF THE GAVE). ]

Beyond the river, amid the varied green of tree and meadow, nestledthe scattered villages, with the hills above, here brown with barevineyards, there vying with the meadow's green; and in thebackground behind and above all, the mighty range of snow mountainsextending as far as eye could reach, and fading in the dim haze ofdistance. Then, as the sun sank lower, the soft rosy hue shone onthe castle windows, glinted through the trees of the Château Park, dyed the swift waters of the river, and tipped the snowy crestsafar. There are few, we think, who would not, as we did, enjoyfully the contemplation of such a scene. 

From the Place Royale to the Château is a very short distance;turning to the right past the Church of St. Martin--a fine well-built edifice--and the Hôtel Gassion, it stands in full view, andthe broad walk passing beneath the side arches leads into thecourtyard. In order to obtain a good view of the entrance and thetowers that guard it, it is preferable to approach the castle bythe Rue Henri IV. (a continuation of the Rue du Lycée that passesbetween the theatre and the end of the Place Royale), which, whenthe shops are left behind, suddenly curves to the left, to the footof the bridge leading direct to the main entrance. It is worthwhile to stand on the bridge for a short time, and survey the wholescene, which can hardly fail to carry the thoughts back to oldentimes, and as the castle is so intimately connected with the townof Pau, a few explanatory historical facts will not, we trust, beconsidered out of place before continuing the inspection of theedifice. The origin of the name of Pau is the Spanish "Palo, " a"stick" or a "stake, " and takes us back to the time when theSaracens had taken possession of a large part of Spain and weremaking raids beyond the Pyrenees. Feeling their unprotectedposition, the inhabitants of the Gave Valley made over a piece ofground to a Prince of Bearn, on the condition that he should erecta fortress for their defence thereon. This he agreed to do, and asthe extent of his allotment was marked out by "stakes, " the castlebecame known as the castle of "stakes" or Palo, which in timebecame Pau. 

Its commanding position and appearance inspired confidence, andhouses soon sprang up around; and, at least a century before thebirth of Henry IV. , Pau had become an important place. In time itbecame the capital of the kingdom of Navarre, and later, whenNavarre, Bearn, and the "Pays Basques" were constituted as onedepartment in 1790, it still retained its position as chief town. 

Now to resume our inspection from the bridge. The two towers infull view on either side of the sculptured façade, are the finestand most prominent of the six that flank the castle, but there isone in the interior of the court of more interest. The highest ofthese two is the donjon on the left, built of brick, and known as"La Tour de Gaston Phoebus" (112 feet). Its walls are over eightfeet in thickness. The tower on the right is known as "La TourNeuve, " while the most interesting is that known as "La Tour deMontaüset" or "Monte-Oiseau, " in which are the ancient dungeons andoubliettes. The porter has rooms on the ground-floor of the GastonPhoebus Tower, and his wife sells photographs singly and in books. Outside, underneath and adjoining the same tower, is a small modern(1843) chapel. 

The hours for visiting the interior of the Château are between 10and 12 and 2 and 4 daily, and the entrance is free, though theguide expects a gratuity, say of one franc for one person, twofrancs for three. As we were always lucky enough to be the onlypeople wanting to inspect, at the particular hour we went--whichwas always as near ten as possible--we managed by judicious meansto calm the impetuosity of the guide, and induce him to tell histale slowly. If, as usually happens, other people are there at thesame time, he rattles off his lesson at such a pace that itrequires very good French scholars to even _follow_ him; toremember what he says is out of the question. Whether by "morejudicious means, " it would be possible to induce him to go roundout of hours, we do not know, never having had occasion to try, butwe certainly think it would be worth an attempt, if the visitorscould not otherwise manage to hit a time when they could go overalone. 

Passing under one of the three arches of the façade, we traversedthe courtyard to the extremity, and while waiting for the guide tocome to us at the small side door, examined the curious sculpturessurrounding the window on the left. On the door being opened wepassed into the Salle des Gardes, and from that into the Salle àManger, where stands a statue of Henry IV. , supposed to be morelike him than any other. Then through a succession of rooms and upflights of stairs, and through rooms again, to describe which asthey deserve would alone fill up a small volume, but this we do notintend to do, contenting ourselves with simply mentioning as muchof what we saw as we hope may induce everyone to follow ourexample, and see them for themselves. To any lovers of a grandview, that which may be seen from the upper windows of the castleis almost alone worth coming for, and the tapestry which lines thewalls of many of the rooms is simply exquisite. 

The "Sports and Pastimes of the various Months" of Flanders work, in the "Salle des Etats"--the six pieces of Gobelin work in theQueen's Boudoir on the first floor--the five pieces of the samework, including "Venus's toilet, " in Queen Jeanne's room on thesecond floor, and the four pieces of Brussels in Henry IV. 'sbedroom--also on the second floor--are only a few of the manywonderful pieces of tapestry. 

[Illustration: THE CASTLE COURTYARD. ]

In the "Grand Reception Room, " in which the massacres took place in1569, is a fine mosaic table and Sèvres vases, besides the Flanderstapestry. 

There are several objects of interest in Henry IV. 's room, in whichhe is said to have been born 13th December, 1553, including themagnificently carved bedstead; but the chief attraction is thetortoise-shell cradle, which as a rule Frenchmen come only to see. Why they should come is quite a different matter, seeing thatalthough a tortoise's shell might make a very comfortable cradlefor even such an illustrious infant as was Henry IV. , yet as henever had anything to do with the one in question, it is ratherabsurd that year after year they should flock to see it out ofrespect to him; and the absurdity is greater, since in a statementon the wall hard by this fact is made known. None of the northernrooms are open to the public, but the chief objects of interesthave been transferred to the other wing!

Leaving the courtyard by the road under the side arches that leadsto the terrace, the tasteful gardening of the surroundings isnoticeable, and as soon as the lower walk is reached, the "Tour dela Monnaie" lies in full view below. No efforts are made to keepthese ruins, in which Calvin used to preach, from crumbling intodust. _"O tempora! O mores!"_

From the terrace on the other side of the Castle, the remains ofthe old fosse may be seen, though houses are now built where thewater used to lie. A broad pathway encircles the edifice, and abridge leads from the extreme end over the Rue Marca into theCastle Park, called also "lower plantation" (basse plante) indistinction from the "upper plantation" (haute plante), whichsurrounds the barracks. Near the road the trees are planted stifflyin rows, but when another and smaller bridge has been traversed, the beauty of the Park is manifest. 

[Illustration: IN THE CASTLE PARK. ]

Following the course of the river, and filled with the finest treesand shrubs, through which the beautiful little nuthatch mayoccasionally be seen flying, and among which many other birds sing--itis indeed, with its long cool walks and pleasant glades, a lovelypromenade. The Bayonne road is the boundary on the opposite side fromthe river, and just beyond the limits of the Park a path branches offriver-wards to the Billères Plains, where tennis and golf are played. In the opposite direction another leads up under the shadow of an oldchurch, and joins the Route de Billères, which, starting from the Bordeauxroad, passes the Villa Lacroix and other handsome houses, anddescending throws off another branch into the Bayonne road. It thencurves in an opposite direction, and ascends, while at the sametime skirting the grounds of the Château de Billères, to thefavourite Billères woods. From the woods it communicates in anearly straight line with the Bordeaux road again, so that inreality it describes three-quarters of a circle. 

These woods, though sadly disfigured by the demand for fire-wood, are pleasant to ramble in when the soldiers are not in possession, and there are drives through them in all directions. At one timewild duck, pigeons, and woodcock were plentiful there, but thattime has passed, though the gallant French _sportsmen_ may still beseen trooping through with their dogs after blackbirds and tomtits!

Pau dearly loves excitement. Three times a week in the winter thehounds meet in the vicinity, and many are the carriages and manythe fair occupants that congregate to see the start. It isgenerally a very gay scene, with no lack of scarlet coats and goodsteeds, pretty dresses and sometimes pretty faces too; and thoughafterwards they enjoy many a good run, there are but few falls andfewer broken heads. But it is over the races that Pau gets reallyexcited. Hunting only attracts the well-to-do, but all who can hireor borrow even a shandry make a point of not missing the "races. "And these meetings are not few and far between, but about once afortnight, for there is no "Jockey Club" at Pau, and consequentlyit pleases itself about the fixtures. 

The course, which is some two miles from the town on the Bordeauxroad, is overlooked by an imposing grand stand, which generallyseems well filled, though the betting is not very heavy on thewhole. We drove over one afternoon, and after waiting for threeevents which to us were not very exciting, proceeded towardsLescar. The nearest way would have been by turning to the right bya white house on the Bordeaux road (not far from the race-course), but we continued along it instead for some distance, finallyturning off down a narrow lane without any sign of a hedge. Afterfollowing this for a length of time, we took the road at rightangles leading between fields covered with gorse, and later, descending one or two steep hills with trees on either side, wereascended and entered the ancient town of Lescar, only to dipunder the tottering walls of the ancient castle--a few minuteslater--and mount again under a narrow archway to the church. 

P. Joanne in his excellent guide-book calls it "the ancientBeneharum, destroyed about the year 841 by the Normans, rebuilt in980 under the name of Lascurris. In the old chronicles it wascalled the 'Ville Septénaire, ' because it possessed, it is said, seven churches, seven fountains, seven mills, seven woods, sevenvineyards, seven gates and seven towers on the ramparts. " Thechurch now restored was formerly a cathedral, and there are somefine old mosaics (11th century) to be seen under the boarding nearthe altar. Jeanne d'Albret and other Béarnais sovereigns are buriedthere. 

The Castle is very old, though the square tower dates from the 14thcentury only. 

The whole town, so curious and ancient-looking, is well worth avisit, and forms a contrast in its fallen splendour to Pau's risinggreatness, such as cannot fail to strike any intelligent observer. 

Passing through the town, we took the road to the right homewards, which joins the Bayonne route, but instead of continuing along thelatter all the way, we branched off into the route de Billères, andcame by the Villa Lacroix and the Hôtel de Londres back to thepension. 

Another road leads from the Villa Lacroix over a brook, and pastthe establishment of the "Petites Soeurs des Pauvres" into thecountry, and in fact to Lescar. The brook is known as the Herrère, and by following the path to the left which runs beside it, the"Fontaine de Marnières" is reached. The water of this fountain isconsidered very pure and strengthening, and many people drink itdaily. 

The band is another attraction at Pau; twice a week in theafternoon they play in the Place Royale, and twice in the ParcBeaumont. The music is of a very good order, and excessivelypleasing to listen to from beneath the shade of the trees. The ParcBeaumont is quite near the Place Royale, the principal entrancebeing at the end of the Rue du Lycée, close to the Hôtel BeauSéjour. 

Balloon ascents were often the chief attraction on Sundays, which"all the world and his wife" went out to see. There is _a_ casinoin the Park, used occasionally for concerts, but _the_ casino isbehind the Hôtel Gassion, and though it was hardly finished enoughfor comfort when we saw it, that defect will soon doubtless beremedied. 

Polo is generally played in the "Haute Plante" (in front of theBarracks), and bicycle races take place there also occasionally. Itis only a step from this pleasure-ground to the cemetery, andthough this nearness never affects the joy of the children on theroundabouts or the young people swinging, yet it is anotherpractical example that "in the midst of life we are in death. "

The Rue Bayard--on the left of the Haute Plante--leads to thecemetery gates, and the tombs extend behind the barracks; those ofProtestants being divided from the Roman Catholics' by a carefullykept walk leading from the right-hand corner of the first or RomanCatholic portion!

There is a charm about this last resting-place in spite of itsmournfulness, and the many flowers load the air with a deliciousperfume. The marble statue of a Russian lady in fashionablecostume, over her tomb, is considered a fine piece of sculpture, and many people go there simply to see it. 

The two principal French churches are those of St. Martin and St. Jacques, but the latter is in every way the more beautiful. The"Palais de Justice" stands close to St. Jacques, but facing thePlace Duplaa, where many of the best houses are situated. The Rued'Orléans, communicating the Place Duplaa and the Route De Bordeaux, contains many Good French pensions, which have been previouslymentioned. 

By following the Rue St. Jacques past the church of the same nameand turning down the street which cuts it at right angles, calledthe "Rue de la Fontaine", the ancient part of the town can bereached. It may be here remarked the peculiar characteristics ofPau, and yet probably seven visitors out of ten fail to notice it. The other end of "Fountain Street" leads into the Rue de laPrefecture. This is one of the very busiest streets in Pau, and ifafter leaving one of the magnificent new hotels we traverse thisbusy street, and then suddenly plunge down the Rue de la Fontaineto what was once the bed of the castle fosse--where the houses aresmall and dirty, and the walls and slates barely hold together, sowretchedly old and tottering are they--where, instead of bustle andgrandeur, there is only gloom and poverty, and in place of theenjoyment of the present, there is the longing for a lot a littleless hard in the future; we feel as though we had gone back severalcenturies in as many minutes, and have a decided wish to return tonineteenth-century civilisation again. 

We did not find the rides and drives the least pleasant of ourenjoyments, and there are so many places to visit, that picnics areplentiful as a matter of course. 

The chief excursion from Pau is to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, but as there is a slight danger of damp beds there--if you get anybeds at all--early in the year, we postponed this grand trip foranother time. 

Another long drive is to Lourdes and back, but this we did nottake, as we meant to stop a night there later; but one day we madeup a party for Bétharram, which is a long way on the same road, and, under ordinarily kind auspices, a delightful day's outing. 

If it was less pleasant than it might have been to us, the weatherhad a good deal to do with it, and the other causes may developthemselves in narration. There were ten of us, and we started in agrand yellow brake with four horses and a surly coachman. Themorning was excessively warm, and some of the party were of suchrotund proportions, that the thin ones were nearly lost sight of, if they chanced to sit between them, while the warmth approached tothat of a cucumber frame with the sun on it. We attracted a gooddeal of attention as we _crawled_ down the Rue Serviez and passedthe entrance to the Pare Beaumont, down the hill to Bizanos; but assoon as the château that takes its name from the village wasreached, we met with little admiration, except from the good peoplejogging along in tumble-down carts and shandries. The peasantsseemed on the whole a good-natured lot, taking a joke with a smileoften approaching a broad grin, and occasionally, but only very_occasionally_, attempting one in return. The following is aninstance of one of these rare occasions:--We were walking besidethe Herrère stream in the direction of the Fontaine de Marnières;several women were busy washing clothes at the water's edge, andabove, spread out in all their glory, were three huge umbrellas--umbrellas of the size of those used on the Metropolitan 'buses, butof bright blue cloth on which the presence of clay was painfullyevident. We asked the price without smiling, and the women, wondering, looked up. We said they must be very valuable, and wewould give as much as _six sous_ for any one of them. At thismoment another woman, who had been listening to the conversationfrom a little garden behind, came up and said: "Those umbrellasbelong to me, and they _are_ worth a lot of money; but I will sellyou one cheap _if you promise to send it to the Exhibition!_"

But to resume. After crossing the railway line beyond Bizanos, andleaving the pleasant little waterfall on the right, the sun beganto pour down on us very fiercely, and all we could do, wedged in aswe were, was to appear happy and survey the country. 

It was curious to note the method of training the vines up thevarious trees by the roadside. The simplicity and efficacy of themethod seemed plain enough, but with memories of the difficultyexperienced in guarding our own fruit even with glass-tipped wallsto defend it, we were forced to the conviction that in the Pyreneesfruit stealers are unknown. Perhaps, however, the "grapes arealways sour, " or sufficiently high up to give the would-be thieftime to think of the penalty, which probably would be "higher"still. 

The road continues nearly in a direct line through Assat (5 miles), but when that village was left behind, the mountains seemed to beconsiderably nearer, and even the snow summits--a bad sign of rain--appeared within a fairly easy walk. 

The painful odour of garlic frequently assailed our nostrilspassing through the hamlets, and though it is not quite as bad asthe Japanese root _daikon_, yet to have to talk to a man who hasbeen eating it, is a positive punishment. We would fain bring abouta reform among the people, getting them to substitute some otherhealthily-scented vegetable in place of the objectionable one. Tothis end we composed a verse to a very old but popular tune, styling it

"THE MARCH OF THE MEN OF GARLIC. "

 Men of Garlic--large your numbers, Long indeed your conscience slumbers, Can't you change and eat cu-cumbers? Men of Garlic, say! They are sweet and tender, Short and thick or slender. Then, we know well your breath won't smell And sickness' pangs engender. Men of Garlic, stop your scorning, Change your food and hear our warning, See the day of Progress dawning, Give three cheers-- Hurray!

Doubtless the fact of the verse being in English will militateagainst its efficiency, but before we had time to turn it intoFrench, we had passed to the right of the quaint old town of Nay, and were entering Coarraze (10 1/2 miles). As we bore off to theright across the river, the old castle--where Henry IV. Spent agreat part of his childhood like any peasant child--towered aboveus, and the scenery around became considerably more picturesquethan any we had passed through that morning. The banks of the riverwere more shapely, and the alternation of bushes and meadow, withthe varying lights and shades on the distant peaks and the nearerslopes, would have seemed more than beautiful, if our wedgedpositions and the accompanying warmth had not somewhat evaporatedour admiration. Though the heat remained, the sun had disappearedbehind huge banks of clouds, as we at length entered Bétharram (15miles), so, instead of pulling up at the hotel, we drove on to thebeautiful ivy-hung bridge, a great favourite with artists. Thisreally belongs to the hamlet of Lestelle, which adjoins Bétharram, and is so picturesque that the villagers ought to be proud of it;doubtless in the old days, when Notre Dame de Bétharram's shrinewas the cherished pilgrimage--now superseded by the attractions ofN. D. De Lourdes--many thousand "holy" feet crossed and recrossedthis ancient bridge!

In order to reach the hotel we had to ascend slightly to turn thevehicle, much to the consternation of one of the party, who, clasping the back rail with both hands and endeavouring to lookbrave, could not withhold a small scream which escaped from thefolds of her veil. 

The dining-room of the hotel smelt decidedly close, so we spreadour sumptuous lunch on tables outside; but Jupiter Pluvius soonshowed his disapproval of our plans, and forced us to go within, where a fine specimen of a French soldier had done his best to fillthe place with smoke. However, we managed fairly well, in spite ofsome sour wine which we tried, under the name of "Jurançon vieux, "for the "good of the house" and the "worse of ourselves. " As therain passed off ere we had finished, we afterwards repaired to the"Via Crucis, " where there is a small chapel at every turn till the"Calvary" is reached at the summit. The first chapel is beside theroad, midway between the hotel and the bridge, and the view fromthe summit on a fine day is said to be very good; but when onlyhalf-way, the rain came down in such torrents that we were glad toreturn to the inn for shelter. For two hours the downpour lasted, but it cooled the air and rendered the return journey a little moresupportable; and when we arrived at the house, we also arrived atthe decision that never again to a picnic, as far as we wereconcerned, should thinness and rotundity go side by side!

There is no doubt that a landau is the most comfortable vehicle fora drive of any length, although some very comfortable little T-carts, with good ponies between the shafts, can be hired too. Weoften used the latter for drives to Assat and over the suspension-bridge--so old and shaky--and home by Gélos and Jurançon; while atother times, taking the necessaries for afternoon tea, we drove asfar as Nay, crossing the river to enter its ancient square--inwhich stand the Townhall and the Maison Carrée, of historical fame--and then leaving the tanneries and houses behind, sought somequiet spot down by the water, for sketching and enjoying our tea. 

Rides or drives on the coteaux (hills) in the vicinity are verypleasant, as the views from certain points are particularly fine. Of these the most popular is to Perpignaa, two hours beingsufficient for the drive there and back. It is a nice walk for anaverage pedestrian, and the road is easy to find. We generallystarted in the afternoon, passing across the bridge and throughJurançon, and where the road forks, bearing along the Gan road tothe right. Then, taking the first turning to the right, leadingbetween fields, we reached an avenue of trees, with a villagebeyond. We then followed the road across the bridge to the left, and kept bearing in that direction till we reached the foot of thecoteau, where there is only one route, and consequently no chanceof taking any but the right one! We heard of a case of two youngladies going off in a donkey cart, intending to sketch the viewabove Perpignaa, who, when they reached the avenue, turned down tothe right and wandered along the bank of the Gave as far as thedonkey would go, and then sketched a church steeple in despair. Butsuch a mistake is quite unnecessary; and they would doubtless haveremedied theirs, if they had not found it obligatory at last topush behind in order to make the donkey move homewards. Althoughvery hoarse and tired when they arrived, they had voice enough leftto say they "wouldn't go sketching in a donkey cart again!"

From the foot of the hill the road zigzags, making a fairly easygradient to the summit, on which stands a house whose owner kindlyallows visitors to walk about his grounds and participate in theview. When riding, we followed the road that continues on the rightfor several miles, in order to prolong the pleasure produced by theexercise and the view. 

Another pleasant ride is by way of the coteaux to Gan, and back bythe road, or _vice versá_; but we always preferred the former, asthe horses had the hill work while fresh, and then the level home. In the first instance we found this track by accident. We hadpassed through Jurançon, and at the spot where the road forksdebated which to take, finally deciding on the left one, but thiswe only followed for a few yards, taking again the first turning tothe right, which brought us over the railway line direct to thehills. Winding up through the trees, we passed a tricyclist pushinghis machine before him, who informed us that we were on the way toGan. Of this, after we had ridden up and down, wound roundhillsides and passed through pleasant dingles, we were at lengthassured by descending into that village, from which we got safelyhome in spite of a "bolting" attempt on the part of one of the"fiery" steeds. 

To thoroughly enjoy the longer drive to Piétat it is better to makea picnic of it. We started about ten one lovely morning, turning tothe left beyond Jurançon, crossing the line to Oloron--on the mainroad--and later on, bearing more round in the same direction, andbeginning to ascend. As on the hills to Gan, we were perpetuallymounting only to descend a great part of the distance again, butever and anon catching glimpses of the valley in which Assat andNay lay, and of Pau itself, besides the lovely snow hillsstretching as far as eye could reach. When Piétat was arrived at, there was but little to interest us in what we saw there of a half-finished church and two cottages; but the view on all sides afterwe had walked along the grassy plateau was very lovely, especiallyas the lights and shades were everywhere so perfect. Havingselected a cosy spot and spread the luncheon, we were besieged bychildren anxious to sell us flowers and apples, and to sharewhatever we would give them. They were hard to get rid of even withpromises of something when we had finished, and when at last theydid go, an elderly female took their place with most generousoffers of unlocking the church for us. There was an old sweet-tonedbell in front of the western door, and a half-finished sculpture ofthe "Descent from the Cross" over it. The interior of the edificewas sufficiently roofed for a portion to be utilised for prayer, and the high altar and two lateral ones were already erected. 

After culling a quantity of the beautiful feather moss from thehedgerows, we re-entered the carriage, and descended the hill intothe Gave valley, crossing the suspension-bridge by Assat, andthrough the village into the main road, and home by Bizanos. It wasthe time of the carnival, and on the following day Bizanos--whichhas an evil repute for bad egg-throwing on festive occasions--wasto be the scene of the mumming. Luckily they did not attempt topractise on us, though as we drove up through the town we met bandsof gaily-dressed individuals parading the streets. 

These bands consisted of about thirty, mostly men decked in apreponderance of red, white, and blue, and usually accompanied by atableau arrangement on a cart. Every twenty yards they stopped, went through a series of antics, supposed to be country dances, tothe tune of the cornet and a fiddle, and then brought round thehat, frequently embracing any woman who objected to give her sous. 

A carnival such as this combines a holiday with money-making to themummers, and as long as they can get money in this fashion, theycertainly cannot be blamed for taking their amusement in such ahighly practical manner. 

There are several private coaches at Pau, which turn out in grandstyle on race days; and balls, concerts, and kettledrums abound, with private theatricals occasionally. We attempted to get up "PoorPillicoddy, " but were very unlucky about it. Firstly, when in fullrehearsal, our Mrs. O'Scuttle became unwell, and we had to look foranother, and when we had found her and were getting into shapeagain, her nautical husband put the whole ship on the rocks andwrecked our hopes by losing his voice. 

However, our departure was very nigh, and packing is an excellentcure for disappointment, though we were interrupted in that onemorning with a request to write "something" in the visitors' book. With the memories of our pleasant stay upon us, we do not think wecan err in reproducing one contribution, which was styled

"IDYLLIC COLBERT. "

(_With apologies to_ Mr. W. S. GILBERT. )

 If you're anxious for to dwell in a very fine hotel By the mountain's wide expanse, You at once had best repair to that house so good though _chère_ Called the "Grand Hôtel de France. " Or if for food your craze is, you still can give your praises To the _chef_ of its cuisine_. Your taste you need not fetter, for 'tis said in Pau, no better Has ever yet been seen. But this I have to say, you will not like your stay As much as if at Pension Colbert you the time had spent, And such a time, I'm very sure, you never would repent. 

 If I'm eloquent in praise of those most peculiar days Which now have passed away, 'Tis to tell you, as a man, what awful risks I ran Lest my heart should chance to stray. I never would pooh-pooh! 'tis cruel so to do, Though often weak and ill, For they my plaints would stop, with a juicy mutton-chop, Or a mild and savoury pill! And this I have to say, you're bound to like your stay, And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimmed garden spent. 

 And if a tantalizing passion of a gay lawn tennis fashion Should fire your love of sport, On the neat and well-kept lawn, a net that's _never_ torn Hangs quiv'ring o'er the court. Or if your voice you'd raise in sweet or high-tun'd lays, You'll find a piano there, And _birdies_ too will sing, like mortals--that's a thing You'll never hear elsewhere-- And then you're bound to say that you have liked your stay, And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd garden spent. 

 If for hunting you've a liking, you can don a costume striking, And proceed to chase the fox. Or if you're fond of driving, _perhaps_ by some contriving You may mount a coach's box. If picnics are your pleasure, you can go to them at leisure, And lunch on sumptuous fare, And though maybe, perforce, you'll get lamb without mint sauce. They never starve you there. And always you will say, that you've enjoyed your stay, And never in your life I'm very sure will you repent The time in Pension Colbert's walls and well-trimm'd garden spent. 

As Mrs. And Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney had definitely decided tospend the time at Biarritz while I stayed at Bigorre, I turned myattention to discovering if any other acquaintances were proceedingin the same direction as myself. In this I was successful, and incompany with Mr. H---- and his two daughters, and Mrs. Willesdenand Miss Leonards, bade "au revoir" to Pau, with the prospect of along spell of beautiful scenery if the clerk of the weather couldonly be controlled, by longings and hopes. 

CHAPTER II. 

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE. 

Backward Spring--Hôtel Beau Séjour--Effect of the war of '70 on theEnglish Colony--The "Coustous"--The Church of St. Vincent--Géruzet's Marble Works--Donkeys--Up the Monné--Bains de Santé--Bains de Grand Pré--Salut Avenue and Baths--"Ai-ue, Ai-ue"--Luncheon--Daffodils--The Summit and the View--The "Castle-Mouly"--The Tapêre--Mde. Cottin--Mont Bédat--Gentians--The Croix de Manse--"The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed"--Market-day--The OldIron and Shoe Dealers--Sunday--A Cat Fight--The English Church--Tothe Col d'Aspin--"The Abbé's Song"--Baudéan--Campan, its People andChurch--Wayside Chapels--Ste. Marie--The route to Gripp, &c. --Payole--The Pine Forest--The Col d'Aspin--The View from the MonnéRouge--"The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine"--The Menu at Payole--Hurrah for the Milk!--Departures--Divine Music--Asté--Gabrielled'Estrelle--The Ivied Ruins--The Church--Pitton de Tournefort--Gerde--The Pigeon Traps--The Cattle Market--The Jacobin Tower--Theatre--Grand Etablissement des Thermes--Hospice Civil--Eglise desCarmes--Mount Olivet--Madame Cheval, her Cakes and Tea--Bigorre inTears. 

We had a bright day for our journey to Bigorre, and the countrylooked pretty, though very backward for April, but this was owingto the late frosts, which had been felt everywhere. Bigorre itselfwas no exception, and instead of all the charms of spring ready towelcome us, the leaves were only just taking courage to unfurl. Ourfirst impressions were consequently anything but favourable, thoughour comfortable quarters in the Hôtel Beau Séjour compensated us toa certain degree. To the French and Spaniards, Bigorre is only asummer resort, but as it is considered to possess a very mildclimate, many English reside there all the year round. In fact, before the war of 1870 there was quite an English colony there, butthe chance of a Prussian advance dispersed it, and many were thehardships endured by some of those who had stayed to the lastmoment, in their endeavours to reach the coast. 

Our first two days were more or less wet, and by reports of heavysnowstorms around us, we were unanimously of opinion that we hadcome too early. However, with a little sun the place soon began tolook more cheerful, and a few days' fine weather wrought quite achange. 

The hotel looks down on the Place Lafayette and the commencement ofthe avenue known as the "Coustous. " This name puzzled us! We triedto find its derivation in French, without success, and Greek andGerman were no better. Latin seemed to solve the difficulty withthe word "Custos, " since it is said that the ancient guardians ofthe town formerly marched up and down beneath these fine old trees;so we decided to hunt no further but to translate "Coustous" intothe "Guards' Walk. " Having settled that knotty point, we took astroll in the avenue, and later, paid a visit to the parish churchof St. Vincent which is close by. It is particularly chaste inside, some portions dating from the 14th century, but the 15th and 16thhave each had a share in the construction. Some of the altars aremade of fine Pyrenean marble, and the Empress Eugenie is said tohave given the wooden image of the Virgin on the pedestal. 

As the various marbles obtained in the vicinity are exceedinglyinteresting, and in many cases very beautiful, a very pleasanthalf-hour can be spent at one of the many marble works which thetown possesses. Fired with this idea ourselves, one gloomy dayafter lunch we sallied from the hotel, down the road to the left ofthe church, through the public gardens, and--attracted by themarble pillar--down the lane to the right of it, which at lengthbrought us to the works of Monsieur Géruzet. The huge blocks of therough stone were first inspected, then we saw the various processesof cutting, ornamenting and polishing, and finally were usheredinto the showroom, where all kinds of articles from a sleeve-studto a sideboard were on sale. The cigar-trays and letterweights weremost reasonable, but it is not necessary to buy at all--andgratuities are not supposed to be permitted. 

There were some fine turn-outs in the donkey line which deservenotice, the peculiarity of these animals here being, to go wherethey are wanted, and even to trot about it. Looking out of thewindow one morning, we were immediately attracted by the tiniest ofdonkeys galloping across the "place" with two big men behind it;and later on in the day, a neat specimen of the same tribe passeddown the "Coustous, " dragging a small dogcart, almost completelyfilled by the form of a French female, two or three times as largeas her donkey. 

But like other things, the "genus asininus" is very variable, almost as much so as the barometer, and those "on hire" for ridingpurposes were quite as obstinate as their relations in othercountries; at least so the ladies declared who tried them, and theyought to know. Their bitter experience was gained in a trip up theMonné, the highest mountain in the immediate vicinity, being 2308feet above Bigorre, or 4128 above the sea. Our party was seven inall, supplemented by a broken-winded and coughing horse (calledTowser; French, _Tousseux_), two very obstinate donkeys, and aparticularly polite donkey boy. Add to these, three luncheon-baskets and various sticks, umbrellas, and parasols, and thecavalcade is complete. We left the hotel and passed up the Coustousin rather mixed order, which improved as we turned into the Rued'Alsace, and leaving the Great Bathing Establishment [Footnote:Grand Etablissement de Thermes. ] and French Protestant Church onthe right, and the Baths of Santé and Grand Pré on the left, entered the "Salut" avenue, which in due time brought us to thebaths of the same name. The ascent, which by the road is mostcircuitous and easy, commences from thence. But though easy, thedonkeys did not attempt to conceal their dislike for the work at avery early stage, and when the blasting in the quarries was hushed, "the voice of the charmer" (i. E. Donkey boy) might have been heard, painfully resembling the sounds made by the traveller with his headover the vessel's side, urging them on, "Ai-ue--Ai-ue. " As werounded the last of the minor peaks, "the keen demands of appetite"were not to be resisted; so on a nice green plateau, with theobject of our desires in full view, we discussed the luncheon. Shawls were spread, plates handed round, bottles gurglinglyuncorked, and chicken and "pâté de foie gras" distributed untileveryone was steadily at work. The mountain air seemed to affectthe "vin ordinaire"; everyone averred it was as good as "Margaux, "while the chicken was voted delicious, and the pâté superb. 

This important business over, a start was again made, and thoughthe donkeys were still obstinate, we managed to make progress. Daffodils were growing in profusion as we neared the summit, makingthe hill crest seem crowned with gold. At last, after one or twonasty narrow bits of path, barely affording sufficient footing forthe animals, we gained the top, anxious to enjoy the view. Unhappily, the tips of the highest peaks were hidden in the clouds, but the general view was excellent, so we endeavoured to becontent. With our backs to Bigorre, we had the Pic du Midi (9440ft. ) and the Montaigu (7681 ft. ) right before us, with the smallVal de Serris and the finer Val de Lesponne beneath. More to theleft, the continuation of the Campan Valley leading to Luchon, inwhich, as far as Ste. Marie, the route is visible. On the extremeleft lay the four villages of Gerde, Asté, Baudéan and Campan, withthe Pêne de l'Heris (5226 ft. ) and the Ordincède rearing abovethem. Looking in the direction of Bigorre, we could see on ourright the trees fringing the hills above Gerde, and known as thePalomières; and slightly to the left Lourdes and its lake, with theentrance to the Argelès valley further round in the same directionand close to the wooded hill known as the Castel Mouly (3742 ft. ). The Tapêre (a small stream) flows from this last-named hill into anarrow glen, on the left side of which Madame Cottin wrote the"Exiles of Siberia. " The hill above, known as "Mont Bédat, " andsurmounted with a statue of the Virgin, is a favourite walk fromthe town, the ascent for a moderate walker taking about forty-fiveminutes. 

After twenty minutes to enjoy this panorama we began the descent onthe Castel-Mouly side, and were very soon forced to make short andsometimes slippery cuts, to avoid the banks of snow lying in thepath. We easily managed to strike the proper path again, however, and soon found ourselves at our "luncheon plateau. " We now borealong to the left, finding several large gentians, and gradually, by dint of short cuts, we reached the Croix de Manse--a plateauwhere four roads meet. Taking the one leading from the Bédat, wewere soon deposited at the hotel in safety. 

The ladies were inexpressibly glad to give up their donkeys, andMiss Leonards considered her experiences so bitter as to wish themto be handed down to posterity under the title of

"THE LADY'S FAREWELL TO HER ASININE STEED. "

 My donkey steed! my donkey steed! that standest slyly by, With thy ill-combed mane and patchy neck--thy brown and cunning eye, I will not mount the Monné's height, or tread the gentle mead Upon thy back again: oh slow and wretched donkey steed!

 The sun may rise, the sun may set, but ne'er again on thee, Will I repeat the sorry ride from which at length I'm free; I'd sooner walk ten thousand times, though walking would be vain, Than ever mount, my donkey steed, upon thy back again. 

 Perchance in _nightmare's_ fitful dreams thou'lt amble into sight, Perchance once more thy cunning eye will turn on me its light. Again I'll raise my parasol--_in vain_--to make thee speed, A parasol is nought to thee, my wretched donkey steed. 

 'Twas only when at my request some kindly hand would chide, Or sharply thrust a pointed stick against thy shaggy side, That the slow blood that in thee runs would quicken once again, For though my parasol I broke, my efforts _still_ were vain. 

 Did I ill use thee? Surely not! such things could never be! Although thou wentest slowest when I fain would haste to tea. Creeping at snail's pace only--while I couldn't make thee learn That donkeys' legs were never made to stop at ev'ry turn. 

 At ev'ry turn!--such weary work--I knew not what to do: Oh nevermore!--no, nevermore!--would I that ride renew. How very wide thy jaws were kept--how far thrown back thine ears, As though to make me think thee ill and fill my soul with fears. Safe and unmounted will I roam with stately step alone, No more to feel, on thee, such pains and aches in ev'ry bone: And if I rest beside a well, perchance I'll pause and think, How even if I'd brought thee there, I couldn't make thee drink. 

 I couldn't even make thee move! Away, the ride is o'er! Away! for I shall rue the day on which I see thee more! They said thou wert so meek and good, and I'm not over strong, I took their _kind_ advice, but oh! their _kind_ advice was _wrong. _

 Who said I'd gladly give thee up? Who said that thou were old? 'Tis true! 'tis true! my donkey steed! and I alas was _sold. _ With joy I see thy form depart--that form which ne'er again Shall bear me up the mountain-side and fill my soul with pain. 

After such a potent warning posterity will doubtless avoid "donkeysteeds" altogether. 

Saturday is the great market-day of the week, and not only then isthe "Place de Strasbourg, " at the end of the "Rue du Centre, " wellcrowded, but even--as happens on no other day--the Place Lafayette, in front of the hotel, and the top of the Coustous as well. Thefirst-named is the fruit, flower, and vegetable market; the second, the grain and potato; and the third, the iron and old shoe market. The amount and variety of old iron and cast-off shoes exposed forsale is astonishing. And if the vendors were given to crying theirwares they might indulge in something like the following--of coursetranslated:--

 "Now who's for an 'upper, ' a 'heel, ' or a 'sole'? This way for some fine rusty chain! The sum of ten halfpence will purchase the whole, And surely you cannot complain!

 "Just glance at this slipper, whose fellow is lost; Here's a boot that was only worn thrice; A hammer, your honour, at half what it cost; I'm sure that's a reasonable price. "

The curious characters loafing, begging, buying and selling, quitedefy description, though the resemblance of many to the ape tribewas conspicuous. One ancient individual, presiding over an"umbrella hospital, " presented an interesting spectacle surroundedby _adult_ shoe-blacks whose trade did not appear to be toolucrative. 

Sunday is usually a very quiet day out of the season, but on ourfirst Sunday morning the Place de Strasbourg was the scene of areal cat-fight. The combatants quite tabooed spitting andscratching, and went to work with their teeth. After a few squeaksand a great deal of rolling in the dust, a magnanimous dog appearedon the scene, and after separating them, pursued the victor downthe street. The rest of the day, as usual, passed peacefully, andthe pleasant services in the pretty little English Church were muchenjoyed. It is situated near Dussert and Labal's marble works, justoff the Rue des Pyrenees, leading to Campan, about a hundred yardsbeyond the Coustous, and is reached by crossing a small woodenbridge. 

Monday broke very fine, and as the market people had notified thatthe Col d'Aspin was now open, we made up a party of ten, justfilling two landaus, for this fifteen-mile drive. We did not starttill eleven, and by that time the clouds had commenced to showthemselves, but hoping for better things, we went ahead. Followingthe Campan road, we soon left Gerde and the Palomières above it, inthe distance, and in a few moments the village of Asté as well. Alittle further on we met a barouche, lolling back in which sat apriest. His hands were clasped o'er his breast, his spectacled eyeswere fixed upwards, and judging by the expression of his mouth andthe movement of his lips, he was endeavouring to put some pleasant, self-contented thoughts into words. We took the liberty of guessingwhat he was saying, and set it down as

"THE ABBÉ'S SONG. "

 Oh! I am an Abbé, an Abbé am I, And I'm fond of my dinner and wine. Some say I'm a sinner, but that I deny, And I never am heard to repine. 'Tis said what a pity I can't have a wife, But I'm saved from the _chance_ of all naggings and strife, While in my barouche I can ride where I will, Feeling life not half bad, though the world may be ill. 

 I always wear glasses, but that's to look sage, And not 'cause my eyesight is dim, For when sweet maids I view of a loveable age, I contrive to look over the rim. And when I'm alone with the glass at my lips, I am ready to swear, as I pause 'twixt the sips, That as long as the world does not hamper my will, I think I can manage to live in it still. 

A short distance before reaching Baudéan a road strikes to theright up the Vallon de Serris, and a short distance beyond, another, in the same direction, strikes up the Vallée de Lesponne, _en route_ for the Lac Bleu (6457 ft. ) and the Montaigu (7681 ft. ). When Baudéan and its quaint old church were left in our rear, andwe were nearing Campan, we witnessed a fierce struggle between ayoung bull-calf and a native. The calf objected very strongly tothe landaus, and wished to betake itself to the adjacent country toavoid them. To this the native very naturally objected in turn, anda struggle was the result, in which the calf was worsted andreduced to order. 

Campan is a curious old town, with a quaint marketplace, whose roofrests on well-worn stone pillars. Turning a corner, we came on asomewhat mixed collection of men, women, oxen, and logs of wood. The French flag was fixed against a tree, and painted on a boardunderneath it were the familiar words, "débit de tabac, " with anarrow or two pointing round the corner, but no tobacco shop was insight. 

The peasants thronged the windows as we drove down the street, butthe greater number were weird and decrepit females, with faces likethe bark of an ancient oak-tree. 

The old church, which stands near the market-place is well worth avisit. Passing under an archway on the right side of the road, weentered a court-yard, in which stands a marble statue erected inhonour of the late curé, and on the right of this is the entranceinto the church. 

After leaving Campan the road ascends slightly through severalsmall hamlets, each possessing a proportionately small chapel atthe wayside, till Ste. Marie (2965 ft. ) is reached. Here the roadbifurcates, the branch to the right leading to Gripp, Tramesaïgues, the Col du Tourmalet, and Barèges; the branch to the left, alongwhich we continued, to the Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col dePeyresourde (5070 ft. ), and Luchon (2065 ft. ). From Ste. Marie thegrandeur of the scenery increases. Besides the Montaigu and the Picdu Midi on the right, on the left are the Pêne de l'Heris (5226ft. ) and the Crête d'Ordincède (5358 ft. About), with their woodedcrests uplifted above the range of lower hills, dotted with thehuts of the shepherds. Still ascending slightly, we passed Payole(3615 ft. ), where a head thrust out of the window of the Hôtel dela Poste showed us it was at any rate occupied, and as we drovepast at a good pace, visions of a pleasant tea rose before us. 

[Illustration: THE PINE FOREST NEAR THE COL D'ASPIN. ]

We were soon mounting the zigzags through the splendid pine woods, and enjoyed the delicious glimpses down the deep moss-grown glades, with the scent of the rising sap in our nostrils. The glimpses onthe mountains up and down the road were very felicitous also. Onemerging from the forest the road was rather narrow for thecarriage for several yards, the snow being two to three feet deepon either side, but as soon as this was passed, another three-quarter mile of open driving brought us to the Col d'Aspin (4920ft. ). The view from this spot is very fine, but to really enjoy thescenery to the fullest extent, we mounted the crest on the left, called the Monné Rouge (5759 ft. ), and were well rewarded. Although, as too often happens, the highest peaks were in the mist, we could see the whole extent of the valleys, and the tops of thelower mountains. The range of sight is magnificent; the Maladetta(10, 866 ft. ) only just visible to the east, the huge Posets (11, 047ft. ) standing out frowningly to the south-south-east, as well asthe Pez (10, 403 ft. ) and the Clarabide (10, 254 ft. About), and manyothers. While not only the valley of Séoube, just passed through, and the valley of Aure, in which Arreau lies, are visible, but tothe northwest even the plain of the Garonne as well. As the cloudswere gradually obscuring the scene, we made our way at a smart pacethrough the pines back towards the inn at Payole. One weather-beaten old fir, hung with lichen, devoid of all its former garb ofgreen, seemed to appeal to us for pity; we noticed it both whenascending and descending, and its misery at dying when all thetrees around were growing anew, we have set down as

"THE PLAINT OF THE WEATHER-BEATEN PINE. "

 Behold I stand by the Aspin road, an old and worn-out Pine, The years I cannot recollect that make this life of mine: The snows have fallen o'er my crest, the winds have whistled high, For tens of years the winter's frost I managed to defy; But now the fiat has gone forth, the flame of life is dead, And nevermore I'll feel the storms that beat about my head. 

 I've watch'd the carriage travellers pass so gaily on their way, I've heard the capercailzie's note at early dawning grey; But now, alas! my doom is sealed, I have not long to wait, For when the axe has laid me low the fire will be my fate. Farewell to sun, farewell to storm, to birds and travellers all, --Oh sad to think that one so great should have so great a fall!

As some of the party had gone on earlier, we found the table spreadwhen we reached the Inn de la Poste; and after a warm at thekitchen fire proceeded to discuss the repast, of which thefollowing is the _menu_:--

MENU. 

 * * * * *

SOUP. 

Tea. _

FISH. 

Cold Minnows. 

ROASTS. 

Remains of Cold Chicken. Remains of Paté de Foie Gras. 

COLD. 

Household _Bread_--very sour. 

MADE DISH. 

_Butter. _

SWEETS. 

Sponge Biscuits. 

DESSERT. 

Apples and Oranges. 

WINES AND LIQUEURS. 

Vin Ordinaire, Water with very little Whisky, Kirschwasser. 

We were unable to procure any addition to our meal from theinnkeeper, except sour bread and sugar. Our tea had to be drankwithout milk, as the cow had gone for a stroll up the mountain andwas out of reach of the post-office. Having suggested to our hostthat a telegram might be of use, he disappeared grinning, and inabout ten minutes the servant entered with a bottle containing theprecious liquid. The shout of joy that rose to the rafters ratherstartled the quiet female, but it was spontaneous, not to besuppressed, and told of a happy finish to our not over sumptuoustea. 

The drive from thence home was decidedly chilly, but nothingexciting happened, though occasional glimpses of the snow peakswere enjoyed, and many fine specimens of the genus bovus, draggingcarts laden with trees (or all that remained of them), were passedby the way. 

The entire excursion occupied six hours and a half. 

A few days afterwards our sociable circle at the hotel was muchreduced, and among others the Clipper family departed. We missedMr. Clipper greatly, for though bearing strong evidence to Darwin'stheory about the face, he was a chatty companion and capital"raconteur, " while his facility for remembering names, even ofplaces visited in his youngest days, was really remarkable. 

Nor could we easily spare the four sylph-like Misses Clipper, forwith them vanished all hopes of delicious music in the evening. Ah, that was music! The way they played together the "Taking of Tel-el-Kebir" took us by storm. The silent march through the dead ofnight, the charge, the cheers, the uncertain rifle fire, and thenthe thunder of the cannon was so effective, that the landlord rosein haste from his dinner, and anxiously inquired if the pier-glasshad fallen through the piano; reassured, he went back to his meal, but whether the "taking of the redoubt, " or the "pursuit of thefugitives, " or even the capital imitation of the bagpipes--whichfollowed in due course--interfered with his digestion (it mighthave been a regard for his piano), we never learnt, but his faceshowed unmistakable signs of annoyance for the rest of the evening. 

The next morning--which was Saturday--Miss Leonards, Mrs. Willesden, and myself took a walk to the villages of Asté andGerde. They lie on the opposite side of the river Adour, and arewithin an easy walk. The market people were coming in a continuousstream along the Campan road, some in long carts crowded sardine-like, some in traps, some on donkeys, but the majority on foot. Westopped two of the most crowded carts and asked them to make roomfor us. The inmates of the former took it as a joke and drove offchuckling; but those in the second took the matter-of-fact view andbegan squeezing about, till, having a space of about four inches bythree, one man said he thought they could manage; however, notwishing to "sit familiar, " we thanked him, but declined to troublehim any further. 

The first bridge over the river, built of stone, leads to Gerde andAsté, but we preferred to take the longer route, which continuesalong the Campan road, till, after passing several smaller woodenbridges, it turns to the left between two houses over an ironbridge, and strikes straight into Asté. Before entering the town weglanced over in the direction of Campan, and caught a fine glimpseof the Houn Blanquo (6411 ft. ), and the Pic du Midi, with a bit ofthe Montaigu. Asté is interesting, formerly a fief of the Grammontfamily; it has been associated with not a few celebratedcharacters, and though that does not enhance the value of thesurrounding property (since the Grammont estate is now in themarket), yet of course it renders the village more worthy of avisit. 

The picturesque and ivy-covered ruin is all that remains of thefeudal castle where Gabrielle d'Estrelle [Footnote: So the oldestinhabitant said!] lived and loved, and whither the renowned HenryIV. (the object of that love) came over from his castle at Pau onfrequent visits. 

The church, with its Campan marble porch, is celebrated for theimage of the Virgin which it contains, and which is greatlyreverenced in the neighbourhood. 

Asté was honoured with a long visit from Pitton de Tournefort, acelebrated French naturalist, and the fact is commemorated by anengraved tablet affixed to the house in which he passed his nights. 

The tablet is on the left-hand side of the main street (goingtowards Gerde), and the inscription--which is in verse--runs asfollows:--

"Pitton de Tournefort dans cet humble réduit, De ses fatigues de jour se reposait la nuit. Lorsqu' explorant nos monts qu'on ignorait encore, Ce grand homme tressait la couronne de flore. "

MDCCCXXXII. M. B. 

Which might be translated--

"Pitton de Tournefort when tired for the day, In this hole made his bed, on a shakedown of hay. Our hills, long despised, he was pleased to explore, And we thank him for lib'rally paying the score!"

1832. 

Taking the path leading to the right, we managed by dint of alittle wading to reach Gerde, a village possessing little internalinterest besides the neat church, but otherwise known to fame fromthe "palomières, " or pigeon-traps, worked between the trees whichfringe the hills above it. During the autumn, when the pigeons aremigrating, huge nets are spread between the trees, and on the approachof a flock, men, perched in a lofty "crow's nest, " throw out a largewooden imitation of a hawk, at the sight of which the pigeons dip intheir flight and rush into the nets, which--worked on the pulleysystem--immediately secure them. There are three species taken in thetraps: the wood pigeon, the ringed wood pigeon, and the wild dove. 

Leaving Gerde by the principal thoroughfare, we came back toBagnères by the Toulouse road, passing the Cattle Market--held in atriangular space shaded with trees--on the left; and the GéruzetMarble Works, and later the Parish Church, on the right. 

[Illustration: PALOMIÈRES DE GERDE. ]

With the exception of the baths or Thermes, we did not find manyplaces of interest in the town. The old Jacobin tower, surmountedby a clock, in the Rue de l'Horloge, is all that remains of aconvent built in the 15th century, but is in a good state ofpreservation. The theatre is part of what was formerly the "Chapelof St. John, " used by the Templars. The porch over the doorway waserected in the 13th century, and is of the Transition style, utterly incongruous to the use now made of it; but this kind ofsacrilege is unhappily now becoming of common occurrence! Leavingthe theatre, in a short space we were in the "Place des Thermes, "where the New Casino is being built among the shrubs on the right. The "Grand Etablissement, " which occupies the centre of the"Place, " contains seven different springs, and there is another inthe circular building outside, the latter being only used fordrinking purposes. On the first floor of the building are thelibrary (to the left), the geological room (in the centre), and thepicture gallery (to the right). The corridors leading to the firstand last are panelled with good specimens of the Pyrenean marbles, and in the same room with the pictures is a supposed model of asection of the Pyrenees--anybody gaining any information from itdeserves a prize. 

To the left of this establishment stands the "Hospice Civil, " afine building in grey stone. 

The Carmelite Church, on the left of the road leading to MountOlivet, where several pleasant villas are situated, is now closed, the "order" having been dispersed two years ago; so nothing is tobe seen there of interest except the sculpture representing the"miracle of the loaves" over the door. 

One institution must not be forgotten, viz, the afternoon tea orcoffee at Madame Cheval's. This good lady presides over aconfectioner's shop opposite the end of the Hôtel (Beau Séjour), inthe Rue du Centre. Her cakes and coffee are good, and, thanks toour enlightened instructions, anyone taking some tea to her canhave it properly made, and be provided with the necessary adjunctsfor enjoying it; cream even being attainable if ordered theprevious day. We spent many a pleasant half-hour there, and canwell recommend others to follow our example. 

Towards the end of the month Mr. H---- and his daughters moved onto Luchon, as their time was limited; and the last week saw thedeparture of Mrs. Willesden and Miss Leonards for England, whereatBigorre was as tearful and miserable as a steady downpour couldmake it. I had serious thoughts of moving on to Luchon for two orthree days myself, and a driver who had brought two men thence overthe Col d'Aspin, offered to take me back for twenty francs, butlearning next day that there were five feet of snow on the Col, andthat Luchon was wretchedly cold, I decided to wait till later on, adecision in no way regretted. 

Although during the latter part of our stay the weather wasagreeable, and the influence of spring manifest, I was not sorrywhen the day for moving forward arrived, and though Madame Cheval, when I broke the news to her over my solitary cup of coffee, lookedas concerned as she could, and murmured something to the effectthat "all her customers were going away, " yet with the assurancethat some day soon a party of us would pay her a visit, she managedto smile again!

CHAPTER III. 

LOURDES. 

The Journey to Tarbes--The Buffet and the Nigger--Lourdes Stationin the Wet--Importunate "Cochers"--Hôtel des Pyrénées--"Red tape"and Porters--Lourdes in Sunshine--Sightseeing--The "Rue de laGrotte"--"The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers"--Candle-sellers--TheGrotto--Abject Reverence--The Church--St. Bernard--Interior ofChurch--The Panorama--Admirable Effect--Rue du Fort--The Castle--The View from the Tower--Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels. 

The railway run from Bigorre to Lourdes is by no means a long one, the actual distance being only twenty-six and a quarter miles, andactual time in the train about one and a half hours, but the breakat Tarbes considerably prolongs it. 

The early morning had been wet, and showers continued till theafternoon, but the sun condescended to come out as the train woundslowly out of the station, and the lights and shades up the valleyand hillsides were delightful. Having the anticipatory pleasure ofmeeting Mrs. And Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney again at Lourdes; and alovely view of the beauties of spring when I looked out of thewindow, the time did not take long to pass. One particularly prettybit of meadow, trees, and stream led to the building of an airycastle, which the sudden appearance of the spires and roofs ofTarbes--suggesting the return to bustle and the haunts of men--soonbanished, and the arrival in the station and the necessary changeeradicated completely. 

Thirty-five minutes to wait. Too little to see the town, too muchfor twiddling one's thumbs. Then what? Glorious inspiration! TheBuffet! Capital; and into the Buffet I accordingly went. Seated ata table, a nigger, slightly white about the finger tips, butotherwise quite genuine--no Moore and Burgess menial--appeared todo my bidding. "What would Monsieur take? Café?"--"Oui. " "Café noirou café au lait?" I decided on taking the coffee with milk, addingthat anything in the biscuit line would not be amiss, and away hewent grinning. He soon returned with cakes and coffee, and by dintof taking my time I had barely finished when it was time to start. 

Again I managed to secure a carriage to myself, but this time itproved a very badly coupled one which jolted considerably. Lourdeswas reached in a wretched drizzle, and the benefit conferred onpassengers by having the station _quite_ free from any coveringwhatever, was _apparent_ to all. A sudden activity on the part ofthe "cochers" to entrap me to their respective (but by no meansnecessarily respectable) hotels, as I emerged from the station--which proved useless--and I was jolting onward to the Hôtel desPyrénées. When arrived, inspected rooms, ordered fires and dinner, and whiled away an hour till it was time to repair again to thestation, to meet Mrs. And Miss Blunt and Mr. Sydney, "Red tape"-ismdominant there, as it is everywhere in France. In fact, "red tape"is the French official's refuge. Whenever a system is weak orunderhand, they seek protection behind a maze of stupidity andfuss. I wanted to see the station-master, to obtain permission toperambulate the platform till the arrival of the train. No porterwould bestir himself to find this great official, but whichever wayI turned one was always ready with his "Où allez-vous, Monsieur?"to which the only sensible reply would have been "Pas au ----, commevous, " but silence and an utter indifference were better still, andarmed with these I ran the gauntlet of the pests, and finding the"Chef de Gare" in his "bureau, " at once received the desiredpermission. There was not much time for perambulation, as the trainsoon steamed in, though without Mr. Sydney, who was detained for aday or two longer, and once more, but now a triangular party, wejolted back to the hotel. The rest of the evening was passed withdinner, and an endeavour to get warm; the rain and wind stillenjoying themselves without. 

[Illustration]

However, with the morn all these miseries vanished, and the sunshone from a blue sky flecked with a few films of snow. Lourdeslooked very charming under such auspices, and Miss Blunt availedherself of the balmy air of the morning to wander round the stablesand garden with a speckled pointer and a Pyrenean puppy, betweenwhich and the mountains her attention was divided, though the lastnamed had certainly the least of it. 

Then out we sallied to see the sights, which are more of qualitythan quantity. Turning to the right from the hotel door, throughthe Place de Marcadal, where the fountain was playing in delightfulimitation of the previous night's rain, we gained the commencementof the Rue de la Grotte (which bears sharply to the left by theHôtel de Paris), and followed its muddy ways with more or lessdanger owing to absence of footpath, and presence of numerouscarriages. However, having passed the Hôtel d'Angleterre and theend of Rue du Fort (leading to the ancient castle), footpaths cameinto view, but the joy of the discovery was much minimized at thesight of the shops and shopkeepers, as the latter gave us no peace. It was one ceaseless bother to buy, mostly in French; but onedamsel, confident of success assailed us in whining English, running up and down before her wares, and seizing different objectsin quick succession, while continuing to praise their beauty andcheapness. Every shop or stall we passed--and there were a goodmany--had an inmate more or less importunate, but as what they hadto say was very similar, it can be all embodied in the following

"CRY OF THE LOURDES SHOPKEEPERS. "

This way, if you please, miss; and madame, this way;Kind sir, pause a moment, and see. Oh! tell me, I beg, what's your pleasure to-day?Pray enter--the entrance is free. 

Some candles? I've nice ones at half a franc each, Or thirty centimes, if you will. Some tins, each with lids fitted tight as a leech, For you, with blest water to fill. 

And look at these beads, only forty centimes, All carved, and most beautif'ly neat. I've "charms" that will give you the sweetest of dreams, And _bénitiers_ lovely and sweet. 

A cross of pure ivory. Photographs too. --No good?--You want nothing to-day?--Alas! what on earth must poor shopkeepers do?Oh, kindly buy something, I pray!

One candle? You must have _one_ candle to burnWhen into the grotto you tread. Not one? Not a little one? Onward you turn!Bah! may miseries light on your head!!

As soon as the shops were passed, and even before, women besiegedus with packets of candles, and it was with great difficulty wemade them understand the word No! Then, leaving the Hôtels de laGrotte and Latapie on the right, and the "Panorama" on the oppositeside, we wound down towards the river and the grotto. 

To us, it would be hard to conceive anything more pitiable orrepulsive than the scene which met our gaze as we passed at thebase of the church and came in full view of the grotto. Anirregular opening in the dull grey stone going back only a fewfeet, with the moisture oozing over it here and there, and the ivyand weeds adding picturesqueness to what would otherwise becommonplace; in an elevated niche on the right, a figure of theVirgin in white robes and blue sash; in front, on the left, acovered marble cistern, with taps; and innumerable crutches andcandles, were all the unsuperstitious eye could see. But to thosepoor wretches gathered round in prayer, influenced by the "light-headed" dreams of a poor swineherd, the spot was the holiest ofholy ground. The abject reverence of their attitudes, the stand offlaming and guttering candles, the worship and kissing of the roughwet stones, the pious drinking of the cistern's water as they cameaway--a few pausing to buy some "blest" token of their visit at theadjacent shop--and the solemn silence that reigned over all, werethe chief features that made the scene one from which we were onlytoo glad to turn away. Taking the zigzag path among the pleasanttrees and shrubs, on the right, we soon reached the level of theGothic church, which we entered from the farther end. Ascending thesteps, the two statues on either side of the porch came in view, but neither repaid a nearer inspection; St. Bernard, on the left, looking about as dejected and consumptive as anyone, priest orlayman, well could. The church itself, from a Roman Catholicstandpoint, must be considered very fine, but the adoration of theVirgin to the almost complete disregard of her subjection to "OurSaviour" is most apparent. The windows and many of the altars arebeautiful, and so are many of the banners, while the high altar isa great work of art; but the _unreligious_ tone that this strivingafter effect produces, but without which the religion--or so-calledreligion--would soon cease to exist, struck us as we entered, andincreased with every step. It was as if to say, "Look at theselovely things, feast your eyes on them, and let their beauty be themainspring to inspire you with faith. " There was no appeal to thetrue religion of the soul, that springs from the heart in a clearstream, and which no tinsel banners, no elaborate statues, and noflaming candles, can quicken or intensify!

Leaving the church by the high road, with the Convent and "Place, "--with its neat walks and grass plots, --on the left, we proceeded tothe "Panorama, " where, our admiration having been tempered by thepayment of a franc each, we spent an enjoyable quarter of an hour. The painting as a whole--representing Lourdes twenty-five yearsago--is most effective, and the effect is heightened by theadmirable combination with real earth, and grass, and trees. Thegrouping of the figures round the grotto, representing the scene atthe eighteenth appearance of the Virgin to Bernadette--who is theforemost figure kneeling in the grotto--is particularly fine; buthow that huge crowd standing there were content with Bernadette'sassertion that she saw the vision, when none of them saw anythingbut the stones, is a practical question that few probably couldanswer, and least of all the priests. [Illustration] Returning bythe way we had come, we bore up the Rue du Fort to inspect the oldcastle--or all that remained of it--and enjoy the view. After sometwo hundred yards of this narrow street, painfully suggestive, inthe vileness of its odours, of Canton's narrower thoroughfares, wereached the steps leading up on the left, and commenced the ascent. As it was, we did not find it very difficult work, though if arifle had been levelled from every slit in the two-foot walls, itis probable that before _two_ of the nearly two hundred steps hadbeen surmounted, we would have been levelled also. Passing betweenonce impregnable walls (where English soldiers also passed in daysof yore), we crossed the now harmless-looking drawbridge and rangthe bell. A woman opened the door and requested us to enter, arequest which evidently met with the approbation of two diminutiveyoungsters, whose faces were dimpled with smiles wherever the fatwould allow. Keeping along the right wall in the direction of thepig-sties (O! shades of the Black Prince!!!) we were greeted withthe musical tones of the "porkers" and many _sweet_ odours. Havingentered one of the prisons at the base of the tower for a moment, we next followed the ever-winding steps till fairly giddy, andreached the top. Thence the view was exceedingly fine. We seemed tobe at the meeting-point of four valleys, and the snow peaks in thedirection of Argelès were free from clouds. The whole of Lourdeslay like a map beneath; the church with the "Calvary" on the hillover against it, the river sparkling in the sunlight, the Pic deJer with its brown sides, and the winding roads with the greenfields and budding trees, joining to make a pleasant picture. 

Descending again to the hotel, we partook of a capital lunch, ofwhich the "pie de mars, " or ringed ousel--a bird of migratoryhabits, little known in our isles (except in a few parts ofScotland), but considered a great delicacy here--formed a part. After this, Miss Blunt once again devoted herself to the Pyreneanpuppy, till the carriage came round and we took our departure. 

CHAPTER IV

ARGELÈS. 

Road v. Rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--Theride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès church--RouteThermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother "--A frothingstream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz--Ourous--Contentedvillagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch ofthe hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round theArgelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue--Soulom--The oldchurch--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger andthe ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged izard--Market-day--Sour bread andthe remedy--Arrival of the first parcel. 

Although the railway line takes very nearly the same route as thecarriage road, the drive is decidedly preferable, and when it canbe undertaken for ten francs--as in our case--there is little tochoose between the modes of conveyance on the score of cheapness, especially as a landau can carry a very fair quantity of luggage. We considered ourselves amply repaid for our choice as we woundunderneath the rocky crags and by the side of the river, anonascending the curve of a small hill with the fresh fields below, alittle church or ivied ruin standing out on the mountain-side, andhigh above all, the snowy summits so majestic and so intenselywhite. There was occasionally a ridiculous side to the picture too, when we put a flock of sheep in rapid motion in a wrong directionand the luckless shepherd had to start in hot pursuit--using thepolitest of language; or, again, when some natives on tiny donkeysor skittish mules came by, their faces breaking into a respectfulgrin as they wished us "bon jour. " Skirting the railway line for ashort distance, we drove into Argelès rather unexpectedly, our ridehaving seemed all too short. However, there was our hotel--theGrand Hôtel d'Angleterre (everything is grand now-a-days)--standingboldly by the road, with the quaint, though poor-looking villageabout it, and for another few days that was to be our abode. [Illustration] This hotel, though possessing less of a reputationthan the Hôtel de France, nevertheless commands a finer view on allsides, and is a pleasanter abode on that account. The afternoon wasstill young when we arrived, so as soon as we had stowed ourluggage we sallied out for a walk along the road to Pierrefitte. Ashort way from the hotel, an old shepherd was standing in themiddle of the road leaning on his staff, with his flock of sheepall round him, and the dog lolling idly on the grass. The tallpoplars by the roadside waking into life, the merry streammeandering at their feet, and the back ground of mountains tippedwith snow, filled up the scene. We accosted the old man with agood-day, and asked him several questions about the weather andhimself, all of which he answered in a genial way, and which strungtogether made up

"THE ARGELÈS SHEPHERD'S REPLY. "

 Good-day, sir! The weather, sir; will it be wet? You see, sir, I hardly can say, We gen'rally know at the earliest dawn What weather we'll have in the day; But at night--in these mountains--I couldn't be sure, And I'd rather not tell you, sir, wrong. And yet, what does a day here or there make to you? If it rains, 'twill be fine before long. Have I always looked after the sheep, sir? Why, No! I've served in the army, sir, sure. Let me see--ah!--it's now thirty summers ago Since those hardships we had to endure. Ay, I fought with your soldiers 'mid bleak Russia's snow, Half numb'd in the trenches I worked, And suffered what few of you gents, sir, would know, But somehow, we none of us shirked. Was I wounded, sir? No, sir! thank Goodness for that, Though I've seen some stiff fighting, 'tis true. In Africa 'twasn't all sunshine and play, And in Austria we'd plenty to do. Do I like being a shepherd, sir, roaming the hills, Just earning enough to buy bread? Well, I wouldn't have cared all my days, for the ills And the life that as soldier I led. No, sir! no! though 'twas well enough then, Peace, you see, Is the best when one's hair's turning grey! Will I drink your good health, sir? Ay, proud I shall be, And, thanking you kindly--Good-day!!!

Strolling on, we soon reached the bridge over the River Gaved'Azun, and leaving the old structure "whose glory has departed" onthe right, we crossed over and continued along the road for a shortdistance, till we noticed a lane leading off to the left, which wefollowed. This in time bore further round in the same direction andsuddenly ended at the entrance to a field. However, keepingstraight on, we came in view of the river's bank and to this wekept, recrossing by the railway bridge below, and then back by thefields home, completing a round none the less pleasant because acaptious critic might have called it trespassing. 

As lovely a ride or walk as can well be imagined, even by animagination as fertile as this lovely valley, passes by way of thefour villages of Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous. Although theweather was rather unsettled, we started one morning about 9. 15, and following the road towards Lourdes for about two hundred yards, took the sharp turn to the left (with the telegraph wires) up intothe town. Gaining the church, we bore along to the right into theopen "Place, " at the left corner of which the Route Thermale toEaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes begins. For about half a mile this wasour road also, but after that distance, the Ges route branched offto the right, and the views of Argelès, and the rest of the valleyfrom it, as we wound upwards, were particularly lovely. The horseswere very fresh, having only lately been brought from themountains, after a winter of idleness, and they walked at a fastpace fretting at any stoppage whatever, which they did notendeavour to disguise, any more than their inclination to shy atanything they possibly could. As far as Ges the way is easy tofollow, but it is wise to inquire frequently afterwards, as so manyequally important (this importance is decidedly on the negativeside) looking paths branch off in every direction. The good peoplewe saw in Ges, a village of thatched cottages looking the worse forrain, said we should find the "road vile, " but this did not dauntus, and with a "bon jour" we passed on. We had not gone very far, however, when to our dismay we saw a huge tree right across theroad. Our position was an awkward one. The road was rather narrowand without any protection; there was only the steep hillsideabove, and the steep hillside below. To go up was quiteimpracticable, to go down was destruction! My horse approached theimpediment very quietly, and allowed me to break off several of theworst branches, and then scramble by. Miss Blunt's horse came closeup to it as though intending to pass quietly, but, instead, wheeledround on the extreme edge of the path in anything but a pleasantfashion, either for the rider or the observer. [Illustration]Dismounting and tying my steed to one of the branches on the nearside of the road, I held back as many of the others as possible, and the horse came up quietly again, but repeated the disagreeablebusiness, still more dangerously. Having broken off several more, and again pulled back the others, the skittish animal consented topass. But in passing he bent down a very pliant bough, which, whenreleased, flew back and hit my peaceful steed sharply on the legs. For a few seconds his efforts to get free were--to put it mildly--unpleasantly severe, especially as he became with each effort moreentangled in the tree. When the reins were at length unknotted, hequieted a little, and after being led a few yards, submitted to bemounted very peaceably, and we descended, with the fresh leavesabove and below us, into Serres. Here we had occasion to remarkthat "It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother, " as onepretty little thing would persist in following our steeds, until asturdy "paysanne" turned it back. The correct route all this timewas the upper one (or that to the left), and we now came to a verylovely bit, where two swift frothing streams dashed down beneaththe trees, near a small saw-mill. A fine view up the valley behindus, to the snow peaks towering over the ruddy hill-tops, wasenjoyed, as we continued along the ascending and uneven path. Inthe fields above, some shepherds were driving a flock of sheep, anda woman, reposing under a huge blue gingham, was watching thevigorous onslaught of several pigs in a small clover patch. A fewvillagers, in their Sunday best, stood by the wayside discussingsome topic with languid interest, which they dropped, to wish us"bon jour" and tell us the road. More lovely effects of light andshade over the hills towards Pierrefitte, with filmy cloudsshrouding the tallest summits, and here and there a glimpse of theblue sky, and we passed into the straggling hamlet of Salluz, afterwhich the path branched up--still to the left--through the trees. Winding down again, we came to Ourous, to which apparently theinhabitants from all the other villages had come, dressed in theirSunday best, to mass. "Young men and maidens, old men andchildren, " women tottering with extreme age, were all assembledround about the old church, looking contented and happy, smiling, and wishing us a "bon jour" as we rode in a circular directionthrough the village, till we reached a spot where the road forks, the one to the right leading to Argelès, the one to the left toLourdes. The former looked so stony that we chose the other, andhad not gone very far before a smooth and broader path to the right(from which a grand view of the whole valley opened before us)brought us down to a few houses, between which we passed, andreached the high-road. A good trot along this, by the side of therailway line, and we were back at the hotel, convinced that thebadness of the road and all drawbacks were amply--and more thanamply--outweighed by the succession of beautiful scenery. 

Two walks, one ending in rather a scramble, branch off immediatelybelow the bridge, on the Pierrefitte road. The one we took, at arespectable hour of the morning, which ascends the left side of themound, is the prettier by far, as it discloses lovely glimpses atevery turn. We followed it till it branched off in two directions(the one to the left being the real continuation), but at thispoint we turned off into a field, deep in grass and studded withflowers, where some comfortable-looking boulders invited us torest. Miss Blunt, --whose soul thrills with delight at the vastnessand beauty of nature, --never allowed opportunities of committingthe choicest bits to canvas or paper, to escape her; and, somepicturesque display having caught her eye, directly she had locatedherself on an accommodating boulder, she was at work. Herrick'sgood advice, "Gather ye rosebuds while ye may--Old Time is still a-flying, " might be adapted, she thinks, to sketchers in mountainousregions, and she speaks from bitter experience when she suggests:

"Paint in your snow-peaks while you may, If clouds are quickly flying, For those heights now in bright displayMay soon in mist be lying. "

The beauty of the scene was without alloy, the colouring splendid, and up the road above us, beyond which rose the hill, a shepherdwas leading his flock of sheep, now and then clapping his hands orshouting to a straggler, but as a rule walking quietly on, thewhole flock following in a continuous line. Not wishing to be idle, I took out my pencil to indulge in a poetic eulogy. How far Isucceeded may be judged from the following lines, which might becalled

"SPRING'S BITTERS AND SWEETS. "

Here on a moss-grown boulder sitting, Watching the graceful swallows flitting, Hearing the cuckoo's note. Sheep on the hills around me feeding, While in their piteous accents pleading, The lambkins' bleatings float. --Oh, dear! a fly gone down my throat. 

Spring's gentle influence all things feeling, New life o'er hill and valley stealing:Buttercups, daisies fair, Studding the meadow, sweetly smiling, Bees with their hum the hours beguiling, Breezes so soft and rare. --Oh, what a fearful wasp was there!

Grand is the view from this grey boulder, Each high snow-peak, each rocky shoulder:Charming, yet wild, the sight. Cherry-trees, with white blossom laden, And 'neath their shade a peasant maiden, Comely her costume bright. --Oh, how these impish ants do bite!

Onward the winding river's flowing, Its spray-splashed stones in sunshine glowing, The peaceful oxen by. From the tall trees the magpies' warning, As on their nests intent, our presence scorning, From branch to branch they fly. --Oh! there's an insect in my eye. I've done: such pests one really can't defy. 

Miss Blunt couldn't defy them either, so, as it was getting nearluncheon-time besides, we retraced our steps, but had not gone veryfar before we suffered a severe disappointment. Some fifty yardsbelow us in the path stood a seeming counterpart of "MadgeWildfire"; a wild, weird, wizened looking creature, whom weimmediately recognised as a "witch of the hills. " Her hair unkempt, her bodice hanging in tatters from her shoulders, her patched andthreadbare petticoat barely fastened round what should have beenher waist (and a _waste_ it was) by a hook and eye held by a fewthreads--even such as this, up the path she came. But what amiserable failure she was! When she came close to us, instead ofpouring out a torrent of mad words, telling of her woes and wrongs, or at any rate breaking into a disgusting whine such as

 "Oh, gentles, I am mad and old, My dress is worn and thin; Oh, give me one small piece of gold! To clothe my wretched skin;"

she didn't even offer to tell our fortunes, but passed timidly by. It was enough to have disappointed a saint! and we were onlyrestored to a pleasant frame of mind by finding Mr. Sydney at thehotel on our return. 

[Illustration]

In the afternoon we took the other path--previously mentioned asbranching off below the bridge over the Gave d'Azun, --which leadingsharply to the right, passes beside the river for a short distance, and then leads among the fields, finally--like others in Argelès--losing itself there. Just as the poplars which run with it ceased, we had a lovely view up a dip between two fertile hills, to thesnow-peaks near Barèges; a narrow path skirts the side of the hill, on the right, in the direction of the morning's sketching ground, but this we did not take, making, instead, for the hill standingimmediately above the river. Up this a certain distance weclambered--scaring a few large green lizards that were sunningthemselves on the stones, --by a sheep track we managed to discover, till we could look down on a mass of tangled brushwood by theriverside. Scrambling down to this through the wild vines andbriars, we succeeded, after many fruitless attempts, in gaining thewater's edge. There was no place to cross and the current was fartoo swift to attempt jumping, so we had to turn back. Whiledeliberating on the right path, a little girl, looking verywretched, with blurred face and torn clothes, came round a corner, and asked us if we had seen a lamb anywhere. We were sorry wehadn't, very sorry indeed; all we could do was to endeavour torecollect a rhyme and adapt it to her case, that we learnt in thenursery when we were something under fifteen, and, although itdidn't seem to assuage her grief much--probably because she didn'tunderstand a word of English--we think it ought to be quoted incase it should be useful to others. 

JEANNETTE'S LAMB. 

Jeannette had a naughty lamb, That looked like dirty snow;And wherever Jeannette wentThat lamb would never go. 

It wandered from her care one day, (Oh, stupid little fool!)It made her cry her heart awayWhile searching brake and pool. 

And Jeannette tore her dress to rags, And scratched her hands and face;But of her dirty little lambShe couldn't find a trace. 

The lamb fell in the river deep, But Jeannette never knew. Though Satan finds some mischief still, For little lambs to do. 

However, she listened very submissively till we had finished, andthen wandered off again still searching for her lamb, while weretraced our steps. 

There is a drive round the Argelès valley, which on a fine day issimply splendid, and ought certainly not to be missed. At ten a. M. A landau with two good horses was at the door, and away we wenttowards Argelès station, across the line, over a new piece of road, and then across a rather shaky, but wholly quaint, wooden bridge(under which flows the Gave de Pau) to the base of the hills. As wecontinued along this road in the direction of Pierrefitte, theviews of the mountains on the Argelès side were especially fine. The Pic d'Arrens (7435 ft. ) and the Col de Tortes (5903 ft. ), withthe wild Pic de Gabizos (8808 ft. ) with its toothed summits, behindit--in the direction of Eaux Bonnes: over Pierrefitte the Pic deSoulom (5798 ft. ), the Pic de Viscos (7025 ft. ), and far up theCauterets valley the Cabaliros (7655 ft. ), the Pic de Labassa (9781ft. ), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance (8800 ft. About). Anespecially interesting part arrives, as the road approaches thewonderful old ruin of the Château de Beaucens (with "oubliettes"towers, a "donjon" of the 14th century, and west walls of the 16thditto), which stands on the left, not far from the village of thesame name. Crossing the river again, we just managed to pass oversome newly-laid road, to the village of Villelongue--above which, on the left, towers the imposing Pic de Villelongue--and soon afterfound ourselves beside the river again at the foot of the Pic deSoulom, where it is very lovely, and crossing another bridge, reached Soulom itself. It seemed to us an old and somewhat dirtytown--not to say filthy--but the church is worthy of a visit. Itwas formerly fortified, and the construction of the belfry--if suchit can be called--is curious. The inscription over the door, "Thisis the house of God and the gate of heaven, " written in Latin, seems somewhat grotesque for such a building, although the dome ispainted to represent the sky in all the "intensity" of a starlightnight. A few yards along the road and we stood on the bridge overthe "Gave de Cauterets, " at the other side of which is Pierrefitte--and from which point the scenery is especially grand. Passing theHôtel de la Poste (recommended) on the left, and the way to thestation on the right, we bore up the hill in the former direction, towards St. Savin. 

This old place--in fact the oldest village in the valley--is aneasy walk from Argelès, and should certainly not be excluded from avisit. Having passed the dismantled Château de Despourrins and thestatue at the roadside erected in the poet's (Despourrins') honour, we had a grand glimpse of the valley below; and, leaving behind theChapelle de Piétad (16th century), which stands on a point abovethe road, we entered the village. The street leading to the ancientRoman Church is ancient too, reminding one, in the curiousconstruction of the houses, of Chester, the style of supporting theupper part on wooden beams, reaching over the road, and leaving apassage beneath, being very similar. The church has been restoredand is in capital preservation. As there were so many objects ofinterest, chiefly connected with the great St. Savin himself, wesent for the verger, sexton, bellringer, parish beadle, or whateverthe "goîtreux" individual called himself, and paid great attentionto all he had to say. Although a good deal was quite unintelligible, the following are some of the most interesting facts. Enteringat the small side door, immediately within stands a curiousand very old bénitier (font), with two curious individualscarved in the stone supporting the basin. These are supposed torepresent two "Cagots, " a despised race for whom the font itselfwas constructed. Very few people know anything about their origin, but they were greatly detested by the inhabitants of the country, and not even allowed to worship in the same church, or use the same"holy water" as the rest. They still exist about Gavarnie and a fewother spots, and we hope to learn more of them. The old batteredorgan next presents itself to the view, with the long flight ofsteps leading up to it, but as it wished to tell its own story, without further description behold

"THE ORGAN'S TALE. "

 Good people who gaze at my ruinous state, Don't lift up your noses and sneer: I've a pitiful story I wish to relate, And, I pray you, believe me sincere. 

 I was young, I was "sweet, " in the years that are gone, The breath through my proud bosom rolled, And I loved to peal forth as the service went on, O'er the heads of the worshipping fold. 

 How time speeds along! Three whole centuries--yes!-- Have passed since the day of my birth; And, good people, I thought myself then, you may guess, The loveliest organ on earth. 

 Such pipes and such stops! and a swell--such a swell!!! My music rang under the dome; And the way that I held the old folks 'neath my spell You should know; but alas! they've gone "home. "

 Then my varnish was bright, and my panels were gay With devices both script'ral and quaint; I frightened the _sinner_ with hair turning grey, But charmed into rapture the _saint_. 

 Those faces once painted so brightly would smile, And put out their tongues at my voice; As the pedals were played, they would wag all the while, And the children below would rejoice. 

 Now is it not sad to have once been so grand, And now to be shattered and old? To look but a ruin up here, where I stand Decidedly out in the cold?

 Each "pipe is put out, " and my "stops" are no more, I belong to a "period" remote; And as to the tongues that wagged freely of yore, They have long disappeared down the throat. 

 My pedals are broken or gone quite awry, My "keys"--you may "note"--are now dust; No longer a "swell"--not as faint as a sigh-- While my bellows, good people, are "bust. "

 I am twisted and worn, in a ruinous state, But prythee, good people, don't sneer! My joys and my sorrows I've tried to relate, And in judging me don't be severe!!!

Leaving the organ, and passing behind the "high altar, " we beheldthe tomb of the redoubtable saint, who is supposed to have beenshut up there at the end of the 10th century, though the giltornament (?) above is some four centuries younger. The set of oldpaintings to the right and left represent scenes in the good man'slife, who, if he had only changed the _i_ in his name to _o_--andthe king would have agreed readily--by the perpetual allusion to_Savon_, would perhaps have done much for the natives generally. The robing-room, wherein the head of the revered man is kept in acasket, and the "Salle du Chapitre, " with quaint carvings of the12th century, beyond, are other places of interest. 

The "Château de Miramont, " which adjoins, is now used as a convent(or college), and visitors are not permitted to inspect it. Webought a lithographed print of the church and its environs for halfa franc, from our round-backed guide, besides depositing a"douceur" in his horny palm, and consequently parted with him onthe best of terms. The road for some distance being rather steep, we preferred to walk and let the carriage follow, but when nearingthe junction with the Pierrefitte road, we mounted again and bowledalong at a smart pace over the well-known bridge to the hotel. 

There was nothing striking about our hotel life, although we foundit pleasant, being a "parti carré. " We were generally the solepartakers of the table-d'hôte, at which the food was excellent, thejugged chamois (izard) being especially good. Light, however, wasat a premium. It may have been all out of compliment, to beartestimony to our being "shining lights" ourselves; still, for allthat, we should have been glad to forego the politeness, andreceive, instead, a reinforcement of lamps. 

Argelès itself is a peculiar old place; though devoid of muchinterest, except on market-days. The curious houses and towers, thestreet watercourses (as at Bagnères de Bigorre), the church, andthe strange chapel-like building now used as a diocesan college, are all that is noteworthy even, excepting the "State schools, "built three years ago. 

On a Tuesday, when the market is in full swing, the square in frontof the post-office looks bright and cheerful, and vegetablesflourish. We took a very pleasant walk after passing through thestalls, and down past the Hôtel de France. The route we followedleads to the right, close by the new State schools, among some poorcottages, where it turns sharply in the opposite direction, andruns down beside some fine old chestnut trees to the river. Continuing, the track leads up a fine glen, with views of the snow-peaks towards Eaux Bonnes, which well repaid our walk. 

Returning again by the town, we wandered about through the narrowstreets, taking a farewell survey before leaving for Cauterets, whither we were next intent. 

There is another episode connected with Argelès, that will live inour memories, and it is one that future travellers, methinks, mayhave reason to appreciate, if not to endorse. 

Everybody learns from unhappy experience how sour the bread isthroughout the Pyrenees, only excepting two or three resorts, andas we were aware of the fact before leaving Pau, we arranged withMonsieur Kern, of the Austrian Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, tosend us a certain amount of bread every day. The first night atArgelès was spent without it, but on the evening of the followingday a packet was brought into the drawing-room, where we wereassembled, and at the magical word "bread" every eye brightened, and every face relaxed into a smile. Let no one cavil. This was oneof the episodes that link Argelès to us with a pleasant charm. 

CHAPTER V. 

CAUTERETS. 

Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--The Gorge--Its majestic beauty--Theresemblance to the Llanberis Pass--Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical--Zincmines--Le Pont de Médiabat--Entering the town--The Rue Richelieu andHôtel du Parc--Winter's seal upon them still--Thermes desOeufs--Thermes de César--The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs--A gooddinner and the menu--The start for the Col de Riou--The Grange de laReine Hortense--The pines--Miss Blunt's "exhortation to the firstsnow"--The dogs and their gambols--Defeated, but not discouraged--Tothe Cérizey Cascade--The baths of La Raillère, Petit St. Sauveur, andLe Pré--Cascade du Lutour--The Marcadau gorge--Scenery--Pic deGaube--At the Cérizey Cascade--The Pont d'Espagne and Lac deGaube--Pont de Benqués--Lutour Valley--Various excursions up same--The"Pare"--Allées de Gambasque--The Peguère--The "Pagoda" Villa--Promenadedu Mamelon Vert--The road's up again--Blows and blasts--The bishop'sarrival--Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions--The pilgrims atlarge--They start on an excursion--The market and Hôtel de Ville--Thegrocer's opinion--Pyrenean dogs and their treatment--Thedog-fancier--Smiles and temper--Bargaining displaced--No dog after all!

A Landau with four horses was ready after lunch, to transport us andour baggage to Cauterets; but having enjoyed Argelès very much, we werenone of us particularly glad at the prospect of the change. The road asfar as Pierrefitte, lovely as it is at this season of freshness, discloses no other views than those previously described, but when weturned sharply to the right, after passing the Hôtel de la Poste, andbegan the ascent towards Cauterets, then our eyes had indeed a richtreat. It would require the most dismal of dismal days, with sluicingrain and clouds low down on every beautiful crag and snow-tippedsummit, to make anybody born with a soul above his dinner, complain ofthe grandeur of the gorge, or impugn the unceasing variety of dashingwaterfalls, foaming river, freshly-opened leaves, white heather, andbright, flower-decked fields. 

The same wild majesty as the Llanberis Pass presents, strikes one here:the enormous crags in threatening attitude far up the heights, thechasms and fissures brightened by a patch of young grass or a smalltree, and, nearer the road, the scattered boulders luxuriantly coveredwith moss and fern, belong to both alike; and, while the bushes ofsnowy heather, the constant splash of the cascades falling over therocks in feathery spray, and in the distance the hoary-headed monarchsof the range reaching up towards the sky, make this different from thefamiliar Welsh scene, it is only a difference that greatly intensifiesthe beauty and the charm of this Cauterets gorge. 

Even Mrs. Blunt, who as a rule prefers the matter-of-fact to thepoetical, was lifted out of herself, for she suddenly clutched me bythe arm, and pointing in the distance, murmured something about"summits proudly lifting up to the sky, " and being quite unused to thatkind of thing, it took me some time to recover from the shock. 

A little over three miles from Pierrefitte, --where a glimpse at thezinc mines and the wire tram in connection with them can beobtained--the road passes over the bridge of Médiabat, and some yardsbeyond becomes identical with the old route, which until then lay belowus. The new portion (made in 1874) only extends for about two miles, as it does not commence till after the zigzag rise from Pierrefitteleads into the gorge, but the engineering of the whole has beenadmirably carried out, and the ascent of nearly 1, 700 feet in the sixmiles does not tell severely on the horses. Now in an almost straightline, now by zigzags, we gradually neared the town, the gorge wideningat the same time, though the peaks, some covered with trees, somesnow-covered, seemed to bar the way completely at no very greatdistance. 

We were quite close before we could really be said to have seen thetown, and ere we could form any opinion of it we drove up the RueRichelieu and found ourselves at the Hôtel du Parc. MonsieurVilleneuve, the jovial and experienced host, and his pleasant spouse, came out to welcome us, and although the hotel had only been open fourdays, made us as comfortable as they could. 

[Illustration: CAUTERETS. ]

Cauterets (3, 254 feet) was only just waking into life, only two orthree hotels, one or two hair-dressers, one confectioner's, onetobacconist's, and one or two grocers' shops were open; while of thebathing establishments, the "Thermes des Oeufs, " the largest, and theThermes de César, were the only ones showing signs of renewed life. The Esplanade des Oeufs, [Footnote: "Oeufs" because of the water'sscent resembling "rotten eggs. "] a large tree-planted space in front ofthe principal "thermes" (just mentioned)--which serves as casino, concert-hall, and theatre as well--seemed utterly deserted; whereas insummer, with the band playing, the trees in full leaf, the boothsopened, and the crowds of visitors, the scene must be the gayest ofthe gay. We had just time to notice so much, on the afternoon of ourarrival, before the sun set behind the huge mountains which surroundthis charming spot and the hour of dinner arrived. This dinner was soexcellent, so well cooked and served, that, although we despise with adeep-rooted scorn the wretched class of individuals who make theirdinner their main object in life, we nevertheless consider that we areonly paying a merited tribute to the _chef_ in saying that thecooking was always of a high standard, and quoting as a specimen theevening's _menu_ (May 1):

SOUP. Gravy. 

FISH. Salmon, with sliced potatoes and melted butter. 

MADE DISHES. Hashed Veal. Sauce Piquante. Sweetbreads and green peas. 

ROAST. Chicken. 

VEGETABLES. Asparagus. Potatoes (new). 

PUDDING. Sago. 

ICE, &c. Vanilla cream. Cheese, Jelly, and Biscuits. 

When we woke the following morning, the sun shining from a cloudlesssky proclaimed an "excursion morning. " Accordingly, we sent for aguide, to inquire if a visit to the Lac de Gaube was practicable. Theguide arrived, and disappointment ensued. It was possible to go if wedidn't mind a few miles of snow, two feet deep and upwards. But we didmind very strongly, and said so. Then the burly native spoke again, andsaid that the Col de Riou was an easy trip, that we could take horsesto within a short distance of the summit, and that when we got therethe splendid view would include St. Sauveur, Argelès, Barèges, Gavarnie, &c. &c. And we answered the burly native in his sister tongue(_patois_ was his mother tongue), or as near to it as we could, and said, "Have three horses ready by half-past ten at this hotel, andwe will start. " Then, delighted, he smiled and bowed, and disappeareddown the street. 

At eleven o'clock the cavalcade started, and a noble cavalcade it was:Miss Blunt on a strong dark bay pony, Mr. Sydney on a similar-colouredhorse, and myself on a grey, formed the van; then came our burly friend(by name Pont Dominique), and another guide (Berret), carrying thelunch; and the rear was brought up by a small brindled bull-dog, and asmaller specimen of unknown breed, which was nevertheless a capitalharmony in orange and white. In this order we left the Rue Richelieuand ascended the Rue d'Etigny, passing under several wreaths andcrowns, with which the streets were decorated. We had previouslynoticed these grand preparations on our arrival, and though sensible ofthe good feeling that apparently prompted these attentions, we thoughtthey were somewhat superfluous. But that is (as they were) by the way. Having soon reached the last of the houses, we gained the Rue du PauzeVieux, and turning sharply to the right, ascended to the twoestablishments known respectively as the Pauze Vieux and Pauze Nouveau. And here a paradox--pause, view, and be convinced! The Pauze Vieux isthe Pauze Nouveau and the Pauze Nouveau is the Pauze Vieux. Should anywell-educated citizen of any country under the sun (or daughter) bedisposed to doubt, let him examine the buildings for himself, and hemust agree. 

Half-an-hour after starting we reached the cottage known as the "Grangede la Reine Hortense, " the view from which is excessively fine. Lookingdown towards the town, the mighty Cabaliros (7655 ft. ), forming asemicircle, stood above on the right; to the left of this semicirclereared up the Monné (8938 ft. ), the highest mountain in the vicinity, from which other peaks make another similar formation, ending with LaBrune, beside which, but more to the left and immediately over thetown, rises the Peguère, covered with irregularly-heaped crags, andpines. The town itself looked very neat and compact: the Mamelon Vert(a small hill to the right) and the chief thorough-fares being easilydistinguished. Far up the Lutour valley, to the extreme left, the Picde Labassa, or de la Sèbe (9781 ft. ), and the Pyramide de Peyrelance(8800 ft. ), completed the chief points of the scene in that direction;but far away in the opposite one we could easily see the Argelès valleyand the Gothic church of Lourdes. Behind us, seemingly facing theCabaliros, were the Col de Riou (6375 ft. ), our would-be destination, and the Pic de Viscos. Winding up the hillside, and passing banks bluewith the large and small gentian, we entered the pines, which made apleasant change. As at the Col d'Aspin, [Footnote: Vide Bigorre, p. 42. ] the rising sap filled the air with its refreshing odour, and theoccasional glimpses of blue sky, mountain, and valley, through thegently waving branches, were very charming. 

[Illustration: ASCENT OF COL DE RIOU]

We had not proceeded very far through the trees when we reached abreak, where one of the party felt that at least something had beengained. There, partly on the track, partly on the loose stones aboveit, lay a bank of snow, and so delighted was Miss Blunt at havingattained the (present) snow-line--say about 4600 feet above sealevel--that her feelings were not to be in any way damped orsuppressed, as they burst forth in an

"EXHORTATION TO THE FIRST SNOW. "

 Emblem of Purity, Chilly as Charity, Oh, what a joy your deep whiteness to view! Something is gain'd at last, But you are melting fast, Why does the cruel sun put you to stew?

 Tell me, O long-lain snow, What of the vale below?What do you think about people and things? Do you love forest-trees? Or love you more the breeze?Tell me what bird you think most sweetly sings?

 What? You've no heart at all? Cannot help where you fall, Caring not if you swell to a huge size: Minding not how you rush, What you break, whom you crush?Surely such feelings you ought to disguise. 

 Ah, well! we won't discuss, Useless to make a fuss;For, after all, I am glad that we met. Emblem of Purity, Chilly as Charity--But I won't roll in you. No! you're too wet!

The two dogs were amusing in their absurdity. They were perpetuallyendeavouring to detach stones from the side of the pathway, so as tohave the pleasure of pursuing them down the steep. At times, when thehill was thickly strewn with leaves or particularly steep, theycompletely disappeared, though violent pulsations among the scatteredbranches and the aforesaid leaves told us they were not lost, but onlytemporarily buried. 

When we had barely mounted another 400 feet, we came upon regular banksof snow, right over the path. This was quite unexpected, and we had todecide whether to leave the horses and tramp through the snow, or toreturn. We chose the latter--although the Col de Riou stood outseemingly very practicable of ascent--and, returning on foot, thehorses and guides following, with the dogs here, there, and everywhere, we reached the "Grange de la Reine Hortense" and proceeded to lunch. After giving a very good account of the _paté_ sandwiches, and notforgetting the guides and the dogs, we made our way slowly back, defeated perhaps, but certainly not discouraged. 

Although neither the Lac de Gaube nor the Pont d'Espagne wereattainable, the Cérizey Fall, which is about one third of the distanceto the lake along the same route, was kind enough to put itself at ourdisposal. Not wishing to appear ungrateful, we availed ourselves of afine afternoon to order round the horses and our two guides, andstarted about two o'clock. For some time we followed the road known asthe Rue de la Raillère, which leads to the baths of the same name fromthe Place St. Martin; crossing the river by a very unpretentiousbridge, not far from the town. Leaving La Raillère behind, and passingin turn the drinking establishment of Mauhourat--near which the Gavesof Lutour and Marcadau form the Gave of Cauterets--and the baths ofPetit St. Sauveur and Le Pré, and gaining as we mounted a good view ofthe "Cascade de Lutour" on the left, we entered the Marcadau valley, or(more properly) gorge. The scenery, similar somewhat to that at theentrance to the Cauterets gorge from Pierrefitte, is neverthelesswilder and more severe. The occasional bright fields and frequentmountain streams, with their merry music, disappear; but the loftyheights, the gloomy firs, the mighty crags and boulders, and thesnow-peaks beyond, remain. After a great amount of very rough and steepascending--the Pic de Gaube (7644 ft. ) the while standing conspicuouslybefore us--we reached the small hut that is intended as a shelter, nearthe fall. Dismounting and taking the narrow path to the right over thestones, immediately above the hut, we obtained a capital view of thisnoisy cascade. Other views were obtained by us from above, byclambering over the stones and boulders at the side of the torrent; butthis is the best of all. From the hut (mentioned above) one hour's goodwalking, over anything but a pleasant track, brings one to the Pontd'Espagne, and it requires another forty minutes to reach the Lac deGaube. 

[Footnote: The lake is full of excellent salmon trout, and there is asmall inn on its shores, where visitors can stop the night in summer. The Vignemale, from whose summit the view is wonderfully vast, rears upabove the lake. ]

As horses can be taken for the whole distance when the road is freefrom snow, our feelings at not being able to proceed can be betterimagined than described! By Mauhourat, whither we presently returned, the Pont de Benquès crosses the Marcadau, and the track to the leftleads up the valley of the Gavé de Lutour. We did not pursue it veryfar, as the workmen were busy repairing it, and it is also very roughand steep. Several favourite excursions, however, are reached by it, among which may be mentioned the Cascade de "Pisse-Arros" (fortyminutes from Cauterets), the "Fruitière" (two hours from Cauterets), the Lac d'Estom, 5847 ft. (three hours from Cauterets), the Ravind'Araillé (three hours forty-five minutes), the Lake of Estom Soubiran, 7632 ft. (four hours thirty minutes), the Lake of Estibaoute, 7744 ft. (four hours forty five minutes), and the Col d'Estom Soubiran (sixhours thirty minutes). 

[Illustration: LAC DE GAUBE. ]

Instead of again crossing the bridge below La Raillère, we kept to theleft, along what may have been _once_ a Roman road, but which was_now_ at any rate a track both unpleasant and dangerous. 

For some distance, large boulders, soil, and smaller stones overhungit, and seemed as though the least rain or slightest push would bringthem down. Gradually this unpleasantness ceased, and as the roadwidened we passed a few villas and entered the "Parc, " which, accordingto the natives, is part and parcel of the Esplanade des Oeufs, thegreat summer resort in front of the Casino, from the back of which apleasant path of very gentle gradient ascends for about a mile to the"Allées de Cambasque, " up the flank of the Peguère; and to the Cabanes(huts) de Cambasque beyond. 

Although there is but little level road for enjoying a ride, wenevertheless managed to pass a short time very pleasantly on horseback. Leaving the Esplanade des Oeufs on the left, we took the road passingbetween the back of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and a curious chalet, builtwith a pagoda beside it, and little bridges in communication. Followingthis road, which is known as the Promenade du Mamelon Vert, [Footnote:The Mamelon Vert is a green hill near the entrance to the town. ] and inturn passing the "Café du Mamelon Vert"--near which the track to theCabaliros branches off--and the commencement of the path to Catarabe, we bore down to the right at the back of the Mamelon, and crossed theGave by a rickety wooden bridge--shortly to be superseded by one ofstone--into the Pierrefitte road. Down this, through the fine gorgewithin sight of the mines, and then back to the hotel, constituted theremainder of the ride. 

Our stay at Cauterets was not without excitement, though certainly thatexcitement was not of a pleasant kind. We soon discovered that thedecorating of the streets was for the benefit of the "ConfirmationProcession, " for which the Bishop was coming from Tarbes. The RueRichelieu was "up" all along one side for the laying of gas-pipes, and, by way of diversion, every now and then--usually when we were atdinner, or wanting to look out of the window--a penny squeaking trumpetwould sound, then a lad would rush about and close all the shutters, leaving the rooms in darkness and the inmates in suspense, till itended in a series of loud reports, accompanied by the distribution ofvarious specimens of granite in all directions. The authorities stoppedthis nice performance when the Bishop was expected, as the mere chanceof "blasting" a Bishop would have been too painful for the Catholicworkmen's feelings, especially as they hoped for a benediction! As soonas word arrived of the approach of "Monseigneur's" carriage, the curéand chief dignitaries of the town, accompanied by a brass band, adetachment of firemen, and a small regiment of women--decked in hoodsof blue or red or white--passed down the muddy street, bearing banners, and a gilded canopy with white plumes. In a few moments they returned, the band playing, the banners waving, the abbés and choir singing, andin the centre of the throng, with two curés in front of him under thecanopy, came the new Bishop of Tarbes, resplendent in violet wateredsilk, trimmed with beautiful lace, gloves of the same hue, with ring onthe outside of the right hand, which he perpetually kissed to theadmiring spectators. Miss Blunt, who was for once able to look out ofthe window in safety, had a special one all to herself, and of courseshe didn't mind any amount of explosions after that!

Then we had other excitements, in the shape of wretched bands ofpilgrims, who, having a spare day, came up from Lourdes to see themountains. They invaded our salon, drank beer at eight o'clock in themorning, and looked on the whole--in spite of their rosettes of black, red, and yellow--as disreputable a lot of individuals as ever turnedreligion into farce. Whether it was quite worth while suffering theirpresence for the fun of seeing them mount, when starting for theirexcursion, is open to question, but that it was a unique and comicsight we were all agreed. The hotel garden, filled with guides, horses, donkeys, and pilgrims; the delicate exhibition of ankles and feet--such feet; the chairs to help the rotund damsels; the swarm ofnatives round one especially fat woman, who got down after all; thebeaming face of the host, and the gloomy looks of a very fat man, justthe size for a small pilgrim tea party; not omitting the priest, whoseflowing robe nearly hid his _better half_ (viz. The donkey), madea scene worthy of reproduction in the pages of 'Punch. '

Although we strolled about a good deal, we found but little of interestin the town itself; perhaps the most fascinating spot was thePatisserie Suisse, in the Rue César, just below the baths of the samename. The Hôtel de Ville is a fine building, and in summer perhaps, themarket, which stands in a street to the left of it, may present ananimated spectacle; but at this time it had the appearance of a largemonkey cage, with good strong iron railings in front, a few cabbagesand onions, and a small group of ancient and much-wizened nativespecimens inside. 

We enjoyed our stay, however, in the midst of all the wild sceneryimmensely, and think that but few people, if they came during the monthof June, would be prepared to differ from us. There are always some ofcourse, and before coming we had the pleasure of meeting two of them, in the shape of a retired _grocer_ (or something of that kind inthe wholesale line) and his wife. They both declared that "Cauteretswas a vile 'ole, with 'igh streets and showy 'ouses, and that asensible 'uman being wouldn't stay there ha _h_our;" but it mustbe mentioned in their favour, that the day on which they went wasrather damp, and there was only one grocer's shop open. If anyoneshould be disposed to take their verdict as more conclusive than ours, we can simply say, "Believe neither, but go and see for yourself. "

There is one other subject worth mentioning, in regard to which we hada trifling diversion on the morning of our departure. The true breed ofPyrenean dogs may be seen at Cauterets, and puppies obtained by anypeople who wish to have a specimen of this fine race. The great secretin rearing them is to avoid meat of any kind, and feed them on breadwith a little milk, or very thin soup. It is not the climate ofEngland, as has so often been alleged, which gives them consumption, but the change to rich diet from the meagre fare which in the mountainsthey always receive. 

The prices vary so much, that it is wisest for a stranger to enlist theservices of some trustworthy native to arrange the purchase, ratherthan to do the bargaining himself. Pups from six weeks to three monthssell at from ten francs to one hundred, but a really fine specimen oftwo and a half months ought to be bought for thirty-five francs. Dogsof six months and upwards are expensive; as much as five hundred francsbeing asked for them in the season. 

As Miss Blunt had a great desire to become the possessor of one ofthese fluffy creatures, whenever any were seen inquiries were alwaysdirected at once with regard to their parentage and price. Happening toperceive a woolly tail disappearing behind a workshop in the Rue de laRaillère a few hours before we had to start, we passed up a short entrybeside the aforementioned workshop, and asked to see the owner of thedogs. In a few seconds he stood before us, a weather-beaten Frenchman, who, as well as his clothes and his intellect, had seen better days--aman about five feet six inches high, with face deeply lined; moustache, goatee, and hair, all somewhat sparse and grizzled; a blue berret (thenative hat) in his hand; his shirt fastened by a single stud, barelyhiding what had been once a brawny chest; his loose trousershalf-covered by a leathern apron; and his two coats both threadbare, and decorated with ribands in an equally worn-out state--such, bowingand smiling as he approached, was the proprietor alike of the dogs andthe workshop. In spite of his poor appearance and idiosyncrasy--almostapproaching to madness--he had a certain dignity of manner which wecould not fail to notice. But he was very trying to deal with. Wheneverthe price was the object of our inquiry, he began in the followingstrain: "Very good, very good; which does Monsieur like? which doesMa'm'selle prefer? The finest of course? Ah yes, the finest! Ah, verygood; take your choice, Monsieur; take which you please. The finestdogs in the world! See! see! Monsieur" (and here he pointed to theribands on his breast), "I gained the prize at the ParisExhibition!--at the Paris Exhibition!--the exhibition open to all theworld--I, with the dogs I had brought down from the mountains and bredmyself, I gained the prize. Ha! ha! there were two Englishmen, two ofyour fellow-countrymen, who thought they would beat me; but no, no, Monsieur, it was to me you see (pointing to his breast again), Monsieur, that they gave the prize. " At last, however, he named fiftyfrancs as the price of either, which was very excessive, and when Isuggested ten--which was proportionately low--he proceeded to take offhis apron, roll up his coat-sleeves, and then, looking at me fiercely, said, "So, Monsieur, you take me for a ten-franc man, do you? You thinkto mock me, do you? I, who gained the prize at the Paris Exhibition, the exhibition open to all the world, for the finest dogs, you think Iwill sell my puppies at ten francs, Monsieur? No, Monsieur. I will notsell you one for ten francs, and I do not wish to have anything more todo with you. " And then he, who five minutes before had been shaking myhand with delight because I knew the owner of the parent dog (of hispuppies), with a lofty wave of the hand motioned me to depart. Beforedoing so I soothed his offended dignity by a mellifluous explanation, and he once more, but somewhat loftily, offered me his hand as I badehim farewell. So, in spite of the pleasant diversion, Miss Blunt didnot get her dog!

CHAPTER VI. 

LUZ AND BARÈGES. 

Rain at starting--A blighted view, yet lovely still--Pont d'Enfer--Nature's voice--Sère and Esquiez--Luz--Its situation and status--Anold house--The ancient Church of the Templars--La Chapelle de St. Roch--Pyrenean museum--Hôtel de l'Univers--Château de Ste. Marie--"TheJackdaw's Causerie"--A new "Diet of Worms"--The new bathingestablishment--To Barèges--Pic d'Ayré--Esterre--Viella--Betpouey--Millconduits--Cercle des Etrangers--Opinion of the town--GrandEtablissement--Promenade Horizontale--Hospice de Ste. Eugénie--"The Jayof Barèges"--Wood anemones--Hepaticas--Valley of Lienz--Pic deLienz--Pic d'Ayré's summit--Pic de Néouville--Mountain rhododendrons--_Anemone vernalis_. 

Although we had beautiful weather all the while we remained inCauterets, directly we prepared to depart down came the rain, the mistsdescended over the hills, and until we reached Pierrefitte we wereunable to obtain more than momentary glances at the beauty we had sodelighted in, before. Having crossed the Gave de Barèges by the Pont deVillelongue, we were soon in the gorge, the rocks on the left of whichwere blasted for five miles, when the road was constructed. Notwithstanding that it still rained, the clouds were a little higher, and our view consequently less contracted. 

[Illustration: THE GORGE NEAR PIERREFITTE. ]

The beauty of the scene was indisputable, and yet it was a beauty lesswild and majestic, and more unequal, than that of the Cauterets Gorge. The heights on the left had frequently the barest and mostuninteresting appearance, when on the other side the eye was enchantedwith the varied spring tints on the trees massed together up the slopesfrom the river, whose limpid green pools or foaming rapids gave such acharm to the picture. The old road is seen in many parts, and severalof the old bridges, but the one about three and three-quarter milesfrom Pierrefitte, at a point where the Gorge widens--known as the Pontd'Enfer, and built partly of wood as well as stone--is by far the mostinteresting. The scenery in its vicinity was particularly beautiful. The wild quinces, with their white blossoms mingling with those of thecherry and the light green of the maples, larches, elms, birches, andlimes; the bright fields above, and the ever-lovely river below; withthe massive crags and a babbling waterfall, rendered this partespecially--as well as several others in a lesser degree--enchanting. 

An enthusiast might easily write a book on the beauty of this gorgealone, but in this age he would probably find few readers; of those whodid look at his book the greater number would find it probably toohighly-coloured, while the more enthusiastic ones would lament its lackof warmth. Not wishing to incur the displeasure of either, we refrainfrom saying a great deal about the splendour of this drive; knowingthat to a lover of the beautiful in Nature, all we have left unsaidNature will herself say ten times more impressively. 

After passing the monument in honour of the "Reine Hortense, " which isfive miles from Pierrefitte, and crossing the Bridge de la Hiladère, wesoon caught sight of some villages on the left, where poplars--stifflyprominent in all directions--spoil much of the picturesqueness of thesurroundings. The villages of Sère and Esquiez, that we saw whennearing Luz, are ancient and worthy of a visit. Together they formed a"chef-lieu" before the eleventh century, and the Roman church in each, but especially that of Sère, is exceedingly interesting. A few moments, during which we crossed a marble bridge over the Gave de Bastan, and, bearing to the left, we were in Luz. 

Denominated by various titles, from a "poor village" to a "small rustictown, " Luz is by no means an insignificant place. It doubtless owes agreat deal to its situation in a pleasant hollow among the hills, witha pleasant landscape on all sides, and its appearance is certainly morequaint and rustic than poor. Undoubtedly there are several old houses, some looking particularly unsafe; undoubtedly the streets are oftenvery narrow; and perhaps the inhabitants on the whole may be far fromwealthy; but with all this Luz is not a poor looking village. On amarket-day the streets in the vicinity of the old church, built--partlyin the 12th and finished between the 15th and 16th centuries--by theTemplars, assume a wonderfully gay appearance, and towards the back ofthe church we noticed one old house whose balconies, if a trifle warpedand weather-beaten under the thin covering of white paint, werenevertheless bright with pots of geraniums, wallflowers, and stocks. 

The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time veryformidable also. Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in adouble row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip betweenthe ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers. Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence withloopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads tothe high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into thechurchyard. Further to the right, but also facing north, is the mostremarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12thcentury. On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, builtin the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch. We found the insideinteresting, without possessing any very striking features. 

[Illustration]

The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller onesrunning along the sides have a weird and aged appearance. Near theentrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door forthat wretched race of beings, the "Cagots. "

[Footnote: We found it difficult to obtain any reliable informationabout these creatures. They seem to have led an existence like thelepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitantsgenerally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly. (SeeSt. Savin, p. 73). ]

The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we passed into from the gallery in themain building, is the most striking of the two. The gallery and stairswere in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latterseemed to have been in their prime many generations ago. The vaultedroof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient _bénitier_near the door, are worthy of inspection. Without scrambling up thetower to the "Pyrenean Museum, " but not forgetting to examine the oldbell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left andjoined the main road. 

The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie--a very interesting and historicruin--being in the vicinity, we followed the principal highway to theright, and passing the much-recommended Hôtel de l'Univers, were soonin the proximity of the château, which, standing alone on the summit ofa pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous. The path, after winding upthe hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castlebeing now the property of the Précepteur of Luz, who, however, isalways willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, aswell as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of theVirgin which he has had perched on the front walls. A great number ofjackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one ofthem kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we appendwhat we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said theynever speak without _cause_), which we call

"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE. "

"THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE. "

Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again, As he circled out of the ancient tower:Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain, And cawed once more as he reached his bower. 

Caw, caw! I was born in this fortress old, As old as the hills, some folks might say;Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolledSince first it stood in the light of day. 

Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nestWhere the Black Prince ruled in such royal state. Caw, caw! I wonder if ever he guess'dThat this would in time be his castle's fate. 

Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceiveWhy one tower is round and the other square. If I'd been the prince, I can well believeI'd have made the architect build a pair. 

Caw, caw! by-the-bye, there was old Coffite[1]And Jean de Bourbon, that fought so well;And 'tis said that the prince underwent defeat--At least my mother this tale would tell. 

Caw, caw! they've finished with siege and fight;The castle's too old for that, of course;They go in for piety on the right, [2]And we caw away till our voice grows hoarse. 

Caw, caw! I'm a Catholic right sincere, But somehow or other I cannot seeWhy they put up the Virgin's statue[3] here--The place is as wrong as a place could be. 

Caw, caw! I must see how my youngsters lookIn their quiet nursery 'mid the stones;Next week they'll be able "to take their hook, "[4]And--but there they go with their squeaking tones. 

Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, the world is vain, But I love to dwell in my ancient tower. Caw, caw!--why the wretches want feeding again, They've a "diet of worms" nearly every hour. And he cawed as he flew to the nursery bower. 

[Footnote 1: It is said that Jean de Bourbon, Comte de Clermont, andAuger Coffite of Luz, took this castle in 1404. ]

[Footnote 2: The author does not hold himself responsible for thejackdaw's slang, which refers to the statue. ]

[Footnote 3: This statue is in honour of "Notre Dame de Lourdes. "]

[Footnote 4: Again the jackdaw indulges in slang!]

Leaving the jackdaw to pursue his paternal duties, we descended againto the town, and sheltered awhile from a shower under the balcony ofthe new and gaudy-looking bathing establishment, that stands in theoutskirts, towards St. Sauveur. These baths, which are only openedduring the summer, are supplied with water from Barèges, whither wewere only waiting for a fine day to make an excursion. But fine daysjust then were rather hard to find, so we contented ourselves with onethat did not look very ominous, and taking a good lunch with us, started in a landau and four at ten o'clock. 

[Illustration: THE CASTLE OF STE. MARIE. ]

The road after leaving Luz follows the course of the Gave de Bastan, skirting in turn the base of the Montaigu [Footnote: Not to be in anyway confounded with the Montaigu near Bigorre. The French mountainvocabulary is so defective, they often call several heights by the samename. ] and that of the Pic d'Ayré, and, passing through the villages ofEsterre (2 miles), Viella (2-1/4 miles), and Betpouey (3-1/2 miles), winds in steep zigzags up to Barèges (4064 ft. ). 

This valley, after what we had seen, did not give us much pleasure; itsappearance on the whole being sterile, though after leaving Luz as faras Esterre, the brightness of the fields and trees, and the splashingof the water overflowing the miniature mill conduits, made a pleasantlandscape. 

The actual distance from Luz to Barèges is barely four miles, and yetso great is the height of the latter (1600 ft. Above Luz) that it wasnearly one o'clock when we pulled up at the Cercle des Etrangers--theonly specimen of a hotel or café open--for our lunch. 

After a pleasant meal we made a move to inspect the town and itsenvirons, and were not long in forming an opinion, at any rate, on theformer, which we think most visitors at this season of the year wouldbe inclined to endorse. One long ascending street lined with houses allshut up, occasional breaks where a narrow alley or the roads to thehospitals and promenades branched off, the bathing establishments undermuch-needed repair, the dirty-looking river dashing down behind, on theleft; the beech boughs clad in dead leaves rustling on the slopes, inthe opposite direction; and a few natives here and there, very untidyand sleepy-looking, as though with difficulty awaking from the"dormouse" state, complete the picture of Barèges, which we need hardlyadd is in itself a most desolate and dreary-looking place. Inmid-summer, with the sun shining and the trees in full leaf, animprovement in the scene would be noticeable; but very few, exceptinvalids specially recommended for a course of the waters, are atanytime likely to stay there more than a few hours. 

[Illustration: BARÈGES. ]

We took the road leading up, to the right of the "Grand Etablissement, "to the Promenade Horizontale, the great summer rendezvous, and passingthe "Hospice de Ste. Eugénie" began the ascent up the easy zigzags ofthe "Allée Verte. " We had not made much progress when we startled, fromwhat was doubtless a contemplative mood, a very fine jay. He did notseem to like the disturbance at all, but kept flying from branch tobranch in the vicinity, repeatedly uttering his guttural cries. 

As the tenor of his thoughts--uttered in rather a shrill treble--seemedto bear considerably on topics of general interest, in spite of theapparent selfishness that was the key-note of the whole, we think itexpedient to let posterity enjoy the enlightenment we received from

"THE JAY OF BARÈGES. "

 Lawks a mussy! and shiver my feathers! Why this is a wonderful sight; In spite of my earnest endeavours, I can't quite get over my fright. 

 'Tis so long since the strangers departed, They ne'er would return, I had thought; So no shame at their coming I started, Though perchance I felt worse than I ought. 

 Still to think through the days cold and lonely I've wandered about at my will, With no one to chase me, and only The need to prevent getting chill. 

 Well, I say--when I think of the quiet And rest that is now at its close-- I have doubts of enduring the riot After such a long time of repose. 

 It is not that I hate to see pleasure, It is not that the world I detest; But I like to have comfort and leisure, And not to be teased and oppress'd. 

 I don't mind the smell from the fountains, --Though a rotten-egg scent is not sweet-- For I always can fly to the mountains And seek some umbrageous retreat. 

 Then the season for shooting is over, So the sportsmen[1] will leave me alone, And I'll pose as a Go(u)ld Jay in clover, Avoiding a _dollar_ous tone. 

 To my doctor, perhaps, 'twould be better The final decision to leave; And I'll follow his choice to the letter, He's a bird I can always believe. 

 That reminds me 'tis time for my dinner, And as I don't wish it to wait, As sure as I'm saint and no sinner, I'll be off at my very best rate. 

[Footnote 1: The jay, with all its sophistry, did not apparently knowthat French sportsmen only kill what they can eat, and therefore itsfears would in any case have been groundless. ]

And with a concluding chuckle the bright bird disappeared. We were bythis time beyond the "Forest Administration" hut, and close upon thesnow, which lay in narrow but deep drifts among the trees, the woodanemones and fine hepaticas growing in groups close by. 

As we gradually progressed, the snow occupied the greater part of theway, and we were forced to betake ourselves to the extreme edge; andwhen at last we emerged into the Vallée de Lienz, trees and brancheshad to be scrambled over to avoid a wetting, although we were obligedto cross one or two drifts after all. Getting clear of the trees, wecame in full view of the imposing Pic de Lienz (7501 ft. ) on the left, and the rounded summit of the Pic d'Ayré (7931 ft. ). Passing the twocabins constructed among the rocks in the open, we crossed the swiftbrook and began the ascent of the inferior but well-wooded hill belowthe Pic de Lienz. There is no proper path up to this Pic (as to mostothers), and the grass is rather bad for walking; but the views up thevalley to the mighty Pic de Néouville (10, 146 ft. ), and the whole rangebehind the Pic d'Ayré, are very grand. We only went to the bend justbefore the summit of the Col, resting awhile among a huge pile ofboulders, brightened by bushes of the mountain rhododendron, beforecommencing to descend. A fine specimen of the rather rare _Anemonevernalis_ was a prize that fell to us as we carefully balancedourselves on the slippery tufts which so often, carrying the feet alongat an increased speed, cause the owner to find himself ratherunpleasantly acquainted with mother earth. However, we reached the hutsagain in safety, and made considerably shorter cuts on our way back tothe town, encountering a solitary sheep with a very young lamb at oneof our sharp turns. 

We arrived at the café just in time for tea, and then the horses wereput in and we rattled back, having, in spite of the barrenness ofBarèges, spent a very pleasant day. 

CHAPTER VII. 

ST. SAUVEUR. 

Pont de Pescadère--Sassis--Gave de Gavarnie--St. Sauveur--Hotel deFrance--Pont Napoléon--Napoleon's pillar--Bee orchids--Chapel ofSolferino--The view from thence--Ne'er a hermit but for gold--LuzCemetery--Luz Post Office--Short cuts--Pharmacie Claverie--Jardin àl'Anglaise--Ascent of Pic de Bergons--Villenave--The shepherds'huts--Lunch--Snow, its use and abuse--On foot--"Excelsior"--Dangerousfooting--The last crest but one--The view--Gavarnie and Argelès insight--A lazy guide--A "fast" bit--Mountain flowers--Mr. Sydney to thefore--A short walk and a good view--To Sazos and Grust--The bathingestablishments--Sazos: the old church--The belfry--Chimingextraordinary--Various promenades--Gems of hill and vale. 

At the bridge known as the Pont de Pescadère the road from Pierrefitteforks; the branch to the left leads to Luz, while the road to St. Sauveur branches off to the right, and passes through the village ofSassis, above which is the more important one of Sazos. Then, keepingto the riverside till within half a mile of the town, it throws out abranch over the Gave de Gavarnie to Luz, and bending in the oppositedirection, winds steeply past the baths to the hotels. 

Like many of the villages in Japan, and especially along the greatNakasendo, St. Sauveur possesses one single street. The resemblancecontinues further with the fine scenery, but there it ends. The look ofthe houses and the comfort of the Hôtel de France find, alas! noparallel yet in the interior of that wonderful country. 

[Illustration: ST. SAUVEUR. ]

We came to St. Sauveur direct without stopping at Luz, but as thelatter is the larger town--in fact the mainstay of the former, and alsothe nearer to Pierrefitte--we have given it precedence. For situationand all other qualifications, except as a residence in winter, St. Sauveur easily bears away the palm. The morning after our arrival, whenthe sun was shining brightly, we walked up through the remainder of thediminutive town to the Pont Napoléon, one of the most remarkablebridges in the Pyrenees. The bridge itself is 216 feet above the river, and sixty-nine feet wide; but it is not so much the construction--though that is well carried out--as the position, whichespecially attracts on a lovely spring morning. The river, of abeautiful light green tint, wandering down the valley towardsPierrefitte, the trees with varied foliage crowding the slopes above, the glimpse of Saint Sauveur with its church, and the hills with thesnowpeaks beyond, on either side--made such a glorious _ensemble_as we were not slow to appreciate. 

[Illustration: PONT NAPOLÉON, ST. SAUVEUR. ]

But this was not all--nor nearly all--for not only had we the view ofthe grand rocky gorge from which the river issues above, but we couldalso take the easy gradient down to the riverside itself, which leadsfrom the near side of the bridge, as well as survey the loveliness fromthe terrace at the base of the arch, on the side beyond. Having crossedthis fine piece of engineering, and passed the pillar surmounted by aneagle erected in honour of Napoleon III. And the Empress Eugénie, wefound the road led at right angles in both directions. The one to theright, to Gavarnie, we hoped to take thither later; the one to theleft, leading to Luz, we followed there and then. After curving once ortwice within view of the bridge, it bifurcates, forming an upper and alower route, both of which lead to Luz, if desired. The lower, which isthe direct route from Gavarnie to Luz, we abstained from taking, preferring the upper road to the right, which leads past fieldsresplendent with flowers (among which the "bee" orchid is noticeable), to the chapel of Solferino. 

The view from the hill on which the chapel is built is an excellentone. Looking towards Luz, several small villages may be seen up theBarèges valley, with the Pic de Mont Aigu, and the Pic d'Ayré (7931feet) on the right, and--immediately over against the town--the Pic deNéré on the left. Looking towards Pierrefitte, other small villages, and the whole of the Luz valley; on the left, St. Sauveur, and, abovethe almost indistinguishable village of Sassis, the Col de Riou, withthe Pic de Viscos beyond. Looking towards the Pont Napoléon, the Pic deBergons (6792 ft. ) towers up on the left, and on the right may beeasily noted the toothed Pic du Lac Grand the Col d'Aubiste, and theloftier Pic (8863 ft. ) of the same name, besides a glimpse of pasturesand foaming cascades as well. There is very little in the chapel itselfexcept its history and its cold atmosphere. It is supposed to be anexact copy of the ancient Hermitage of St. Peter, which formerly stoodon the same spot. The bones of the last good man, for whom "gaietieshad no attraction whatever, " and who consequently shut himself up for"years and years" in the dismal building, were collected by NapoleonIII. 's command, and buried under the statue erected in front. There isa woman that calls herself the guardian (not angel) of the place, anddemands a small gratuity in exchange for any amount of unnecessarytalking; judging by her appearance, we decided she was _not_ ahermit nor a particularly small eater either, though her stature wasdecidedly diminutive. Two tracks lead from this hill to Luz. Onewinding down on the left forms the branch route to St. Sauveur, theother, to the right--which we took--passes the cemetery, and leavingthe new church in the same direction, leads to the back of the ancientfane of the Templars, through the town. 

After transacting a little business at the post-office (there is noneat St. Sauveur except in the season), which stands in one of theprincipal streets traversed on the route to Barèges, we returned to St. Sauveur by another way. The ordinary short cut from Luz to St. Sauveurcrosses the bridge over the Gave leaving the Gavarnie road on the left, and turning sharply up a short distance beyond the river, joins thehigh road above the "Pharmacie Clavarie, " near an ornamental pillar. We, however, bore up the Gavarnie road till, reaching a cottage, wepursued the narrow path obviously conducting to the river, over which awooden bridge--whence a pretty view can be obtained, --leads to theJardin à l'Anglaise. This garden, much frequented during the summermonths, brought us in turn, by means of zigzags and steps, close to ourhotel, and though it may be slightly longer than the "short cut, " wecertainly found it prettier and more agreeable. 

There is one excursion from St. Sauveur, which is not very difficultnor laborious, and which well repays the certain amount of exertionthat is at all times associated with ascents. This is the ascent of thePic de Bergons. Although we could tell before we started that the snowwould prevent us from reaching the summit, we nevertheless had hopes ofarriving very near it; and finding a beautiful day, as it were, staringus in the face, we ordered round the horses and a somewhat aged guide, and were in motion by ten o'clock. Reaching the further end of the PontNapoléon, we found the path striking off immediately before us, and thework began. The gradient for several minutes rose rather sharply, andas the road was anything but a pleasant or even one, the labour for thehorses was considerable; but they went very willingly, until, at ourarrival at a couple of cottages, we halted to give them a few minutes'rest. 

Until then we had been winding up the face of the hill, but afterleaving the cottages, the track bearing round to the side brought usabove Luz, over which and the whole valley we had a splendid view. Notfar from this point, the path from Luz, _viâ_ Villenave, joinedin, but no improvement in the general unevenness and stoniness of itwas effected. With a barren gorge on our left, and the green pastureswith the snow-peaks of Bugaret and Maucapéra towering behind them, straight before us, we followed the disagreeable zigzags, our horsesalways on the very edge, as though courting our overthrow, till, finding on reaching the "cabanes" some shepherds kindly and welldisposed, we repaired to the shelter that their cow-house wallafforded, to eat our lunch. The meal was a success, as such meals, whenthe victuals are good and the appetites hearty, usually are, and the_vin ordinaire_, cooled to a pleasant extent with snow from aneighbouring drift, tasted like nectar. But the same snow which was sodelightful in the claret, interfered sadly with our locomotion, andhaving finished our luncheon, we had next to dispose of our horses, andcommence the rest of the ascent on foot. Striking straight up from thehut, we soon attained a narrow track winding up the wooded hill to theleft, and without much difficulty or exertion, found ourselves withinview of St. Sauveur, and a great part of the mountains and valleys. However, we were yet some way from the summit, or even the highestattainable point (the summit being unattainable on account of snow), sowe pulled ourselves into form, and whispering to one another to have"courage, " we moved upwards again. A small rocky backbone was nextattained, but still the higher crests remained, and seemed to say, "Excelsior. " The guide got lazy, and preferred to study a littlegeology to mounting any higher, so we left him to pursue his researchesand strode on. Between the next point, gained after some little work, and the last crête below the actual summit, several banks of snow lay, and rendered progress difficult. In two places a sharp decline, with nochance of clutching anything in case of falling, presented itself todull our hopes, but by dint of using the alpenstocks well, and makingdeep tracks in the semi-melting snow, we reached the desired crest, with nothing but the white and inaccessible summit above. The view wasa very fine one, and fully justified all expectations, although ourlazy guide was effectually shut out from our gaze. The miniature townof St. Sauveur looked like a tiny model, with every accessory thatcould add to its charming position. To the left, high above us, themighty Barbe de Bouch (9624 ft. ) stood out just below the clouds, inwhich the still loftier and very stony Pic d'Ardiden (9804 ft. ) waspartially hidden. Further in the same direction the familiar forms ofthe Pics d'Aubiste and Litouèse, and further yet, the Tour and Casqueof the Gavarnie Cirque, stood out as snowy and as clear as the mosteager sightseer could wish. Over the town itself the Pic du Lacgrand, and down the valley to the right, the Col de Riou and the Pic deViscos, were plainly visible; while the town of Argelès and the hillsbeyond it, required no glass to point out their position at the end ofthe splendid gorge. Over against Luz the Col d'Arbéousse and the Pic deNéré (7880 ft. ); with the Pic Bugaret (8859 ft. ), the Maucapéra (8893ft. ), and the massive Mont Arrouye (10, 299 ft. ), facing them, above thehut where we had lunched, added their attractions to swell the beautyof our view. 

When we thought we had really taken in all that we could, we did notstay on our lofty perch much longer, fearing the result of our guide'sgeological researches; however, we found him still fairly well, andvery little less lazy, so took him for a little jolting down a rather"fast" bit, which not only woke him up, but brought us quickly down toour shepherd's hut again. Partly riding and partly walking, the rest ofthe descent was successfully accomplished, including the gathering ofgentians, bee orchids, mountain violets, and both _Polygalae_;[Footnote: _Polygala rosea_ and _P. Amara. _] while Mr. Sydneytriumphed in the very laudable effort of showing the lazy guide howthings could be managed, by arriving at the foot of the mountain sometwenty minutes before him. A very short trot brought us to the hotel intime for some half-past five tea, having taken seven and a half hoursover our trip, including the hour spent for lunch. 

Between the Hôtel de France and the Pont Napoléon a narrow path strikesup to the right, almost opposite a large white house a short distancebeyond the church; this we found a very pleasant quarter of an hour'swalk, leading by an easy gradient to a good point of view. Box plants, with their bright leaves here and there changing into a rich red, linedthe way, and many flowers, including gentians, added their charm. Fromthe rock at which we terminated our walks, a fine view of the Pic deBergons, two cascades, the gorge towards Gavarnie and St. Sauveur, thePont Napoléon, and a small defile on the immediate right, was ourreward. 

Another pleasant promenade and not a very long one, which we muchenjoyed, was to the villages of Sazos and Grust, in the direction ofthe ascent of the Col de Riou and the Pic de Viscos. We followed thehigh road down through the town, passing in turn the Roman-like andcommodious baths, the path leading to the Hontalade establishment onthe left, and the Pharmacie Claverie on the right; and just before thebranch route from Luz joins in, took the left track up the side of thehill. Pretty views of the different valleys unfolded to our gaze as wecontinued on our way, while a splendid vista of villages lay before uswhen we reached the platform space on which an iron cross is erected, ashort way below Sazos. The village itself, as well as that of Grust, which lies within easy distance above it, is a quaint, old-fashionedplace. The church is the chief attraction; in fact, immediately MissBlunt found herself within the ancient exterior portal, she demandedpaper and pencil, and although all the paper forthcoming was the backof an envelope and a telegraph form, managed to turn out an efficientrepresentation of the old Roman fane. In exploring it afterwards at ourleisure, we were struck by several peculiarities which produced mingledfeelings. Inside the doorway, two curious flights of steps lead to thenarrow galleries and the belfry, the final flight being totally devoidof either "sweetness" or light. Having examined the bells and heard theclock strike three, we began the descent. In the darkness we certainlydid clutch a vertical rope, but could that simple act--we ask in awhisper--have had such an unusual effect as causing the clock to repeatits striking? For, whether or not, before we reached the ground, thethree strokes rang out again. The carving over the altar is good, andthe general effect of the whole church is likewise; but the supposedmodel of the grotto at Lourdes, and the awful painting in the sidealtar on the left, certainly do not add to its beauty. 

The children regarded us with inquisitive looks as we came away, butseemed to wish to keep at a safe distance. Whether the double strikingof the clock had had a peculiar effect on them we did not, however, wait to inquire, but after taking a drink at the fountain, proceeded onour homeward way. 

Any one making a lengthened stay can find out plenty of similarlyenjoyable walks; in fact, one of St. Sauveur's chief charms lies in itsfavourable situation for such pursuits. The neighbourhood is very richin flora, small jonquils, daffodils, oxslips, hyacinths, violets, _polygala, potentilla_, anemones, _Ramondia pyrenaïca, Primulafarinosa, _ large and small gentians, _linaria, _ and bee orchidsbeing among the easiest to find. 

Before we started on the great drive to Luchon, we successfullyaccomplished a delightful day's outing to Gavarnie, but as it is fullof interest and majesty, we give it a chapter to itself. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

GAVARNIE. 

A "falling glass"--The wonderful echo--Cascade Lassariou--Sia and itsbridge--Pont de Desdouroucat--"Changing scenes"--Bugaret torrent--ThePiméné--Bué--Gèdre--Brêche de Roland in the distance--The"Grotto"--Scenery at fivepence per head--Daffodils--Loftysummits--Cascade d'Arroudet--Chaos--Valley of the "Ten Thousand Rocks, "Amoy--A dirty avalanche--The Sugar-loaf--Travellers' troubles--Importunate females--Hôtel des Voyageurs--Poc--Guide or noguide--Chute de Lapaca--The guardian summits of the Cirque--Cascade duMarboré--Chandelles du Marboré--The Cirque--Its marvellousbeauty--Reluctantly returning--"The Guide's Auction"--"Two womenenough for a market, and three for a fair"--A Yankee tale--Sketchingand flowers--Tempers and appetites. 

There is no excursion from Luz or St. Sauveur for which it is sonecessary to have a fine day, or which is so wonderfully unique, asthat to the Cirque of Gavarnie. We were forced to wait several days;the barometer always, stupidly enough, wanting to fall, until on thethird day of the moon it slowly began to rise, and gave us hopes for astart on the following morning. The following morning arrived, and withit a heavy fall of snow, decking the hills quite low down with a whitemantle, and gloomily screening the view. 

However, about nine o'clock, the sun burst forth, the clouds rose, theblue sky appeared, and we felt that our opportunity had come. The lunchand the landau, with four horses, were ordered for ten o'clock, and at10. 15 we were on our way. Through the town, past the church and overthe fine Pont Napoléon we went, our hearts--eager to appreciate--finding no lack of food. 

Keeping along the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the Pic du Lac Grandrivalling it on the other side of the defile, we soon sighted the chasmand cascade of Rioumaou on our left, and reached the Pas de l'Echelle. At 1 metre 50 centimetres, or 43/4 feet, from the extremity of theornamental facing which marks the place, we pulled up, to try themagnificent echo, and were in no way disappointed. Our voices came backparticularly clearly, but from the coach-box the sound was stronger. Onahead again, still by the base of the Pic de Bergons, with the mightyCol and Pic d'Aubiste (8863 ft. ) majestic across the river; till, atthe foot of the Pic, where the sparkling Cascade de Lassariou comestumbling down, the wretched hamlet of Sia, with its "quatre moulins"and very fine bridge, broke into view. Traversing the Pont deSia--distant about three miles from Luz and built when the new road wasmade two years ago--we kept the right side of the Gave, and, with thePic de Litouèse towering above us, reached the Pont de Desdouroucat (43/8 miles), and again passed to the opposite bank, leaving the remainsof the old route on the side whence we came. The sky was clearing moreand more, and before us, over Gavarnie, it was one pure expanse ofblue. The gorge was very wild, but with a wildness of piled-up cragsand blackened sides that the beautiful winding river and the springtints helped to beautify and subdue. Presently the massive Brada, upthe grand Gorge de Bacheviron, came in sight on our left, and as wepassed the insignificant hamlet of Pragnères (43/4 miles), where thetorrent of Bugaret dashes down into the Gave, the Brada looked moremassive still. Thus it continued all along the route, every bend of theroad bringing something new--whether a cascade, a valley, or a loftypeak, always something to claim attention and praise. At such a bend, shortly after quitting Pragnères, the great snow-crowned Piméné (9193ft. ) seemed to bar the way; while at another, the hamlet of Bué and theCol de Bué appeared on the right, and at another, again, Mont Ferrat(10, 575 ft. ), up the Héas valley on the left. Not very much further, when bending into Gèdre, we obtained a splendid glimpse of La Tour andLa Casque du Marboré and the Brêche de Roland. Gèdre (8 miles), likeall the rest of the villages or hamlets in the vicinity, is amiserable, poverty-stricken-looking place, but with picturesquesurroundings. It is a good centre for numerous excursions--notably thatto the Cirque de Troumouse--and possesses an excellent botanist aswell as a celebrated grotto. 

[Footnote: The grotto's notoriety is gained, perhaps, by its imposture;it is in reality no grotto, but a very pretty bit of scenerynevertheless, on a fine day. ]

Stopping at the house by the bridge, we were escorted by the good womaninto her garden and down some steps to a platform, whence the so-calledgrotto was to be surveyed. It is a very picturesque spot. The loftywalls of perpendicular rock, the overhanging bushes and flowers, thetrees above, the field beyond, and the blue water of the Gave de Héasfoaming beneath, are charming enough, with the aid of rays of sunlight, to make the spot famous, and the good woman chuckle as she pockets thehalf-franc per head. 

[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE. ]

Starting again, we commenced the zigzag ascent past the church--theroad winding among fields golden with daffodils, mingling here andthere with the lovely blue of the gentians and the pink _Primulafarinosa_--towards the base of the Coumelie, the mule-path to theCirque de Troumouse leading through a field above us, as we reached thezigzag's top. Still gently ascending round the foot of the Coumelie, the pointed summit of the lofty Taillon (10, 323 ft. ) came into viewahead, with the grandiose Campbieil (10, 418 ft. ) up the Héas valley;and the Pic de Saugué immediately above on the right, from whose heightthe splendid Cascade d'Arroudet, dashing past the shepherds' cottages, launches its foaming showers into the river below. A few more gracefulcurvings of the road and we entered the region so aptly termed "Chaos. "Attributed to an earthquake at the end of the fourteenth century, rightly or wrongly, the fact nevertheless remains that one of the hugebuttresses of the Coumelie became detached from the main summit, anddashed down in enormous blocks to the valley below. There they lie, theroad passing between, in the wildest and most indescribable confusion. Here a heap piled one above another, there a mighty shoulder split intwain by a conical fragment which rests in the breach that it made;some towering above the road, others blocking the river below, a fewisolated and many half-buried; but all combining to form as wild andwonderful a chaos as the eye could wish to gaze on, but which the penmust fail to describe. Far away on the shores of China, at the port ofAmoy, is another scene which, though it must yield the palm to this, isnevertheless one of a similarly wild nature. The "Valley of the TenThousand Rocks, " as the spot is called, in the midst of which stands ajoss-house (or temple), may be reached in a pleasant walk from theharbour of Amoy, by way of the wonderful Rocking Stone, and along pathslined with aloes and cacti. There the grass grows between the confusionof boulders, and the Chinamen's incense ascends to the blue sky; butthese points of difference from the Chaos of Gavarnie, though tendingto subdue part of the barren wildness, nevertheless still leave aresemblance between the two scenes that is worthy of record. 

[Illustration]

Leaving this "boulder" region behind us, we passed through a hugeavalanche that stood in frozen filthiness far above the carriage oneach side of the road, while immediately over us on the left rose themountain from which it had come--rightly named the Sugar-loaf--andopposite, on the right, the serrated summit of the Soum de Secugnac(8442 ft. ). 

At this point one of the many nuisances which ought to be classed underthe head of "Travellers' Troubles, " commenced. In the distance, butcoming swiftly towards us, or rather as swiftly as a broken-winded, raw-boned, jolting apology-for-a-horse would allow, was _a_ woman, and alas! in her train were several others; a few on or with donkeys, but more on foot. In vain we told them that we would engage no donkeysat all, and no horses till we reached our destination; in vain we badethem allow us to "pursue the even tenor of our way" in peace, and hushtheir high soprano tones. It was one perpetual babble in praise oftheir horses, their donkeys, and their capabilities as guides, with theconstant repetition of the names of the surrounding peaks, which wealready knew perfectly well. When we reached the gorge which opens upon the right, as though the earth had been split by some mighty shock, and through which the majestic Vignemale (10, 821 ft. ) was perfectlyvisible, the storm of voices directing our attention to the sight wasas loud as it was unsolicited. But happily we were then close toGavarnie, and crossing the bridge with a momentary glimpse at theCirque, we drew up at the door of the Hôtel des Voyageurs. 

After lunching and engaging our steeds, with an intelligent guide, whoanswered to the euphonious name of "Poc, " we left the greatlydisappointed donkey women still making a terrible clamour, and startedfor the Cirque. 

As far as finding out the proper route goes, and that is a long way, noguide whatever is required, but in order to learn the names of thevarious peaks and other interesting facts, it is distinctly necessaryto have one, unless the traveller possesses a very elaborate plan ofthe vicinity. 

Leaving the new bridge to the left, as well as a very ancient one, andthe plashing fall known as the "Chute de Lapaca, " we turned round inthe opposite direction, and passing the "Hôtel de la Cascade" and awooden hut, again turned to the left, down what, though an execrableroad, led, nevertheless, to the object of our desires. At this turn thePic d'Aspé reared above us on the right, succeeded by barren hillscovered with loose stones, but as we proceeded, the famous centralexcursion--the Piméné (9193 ft. )--came in sight on the opposite side, followed by the Brêche d'Allanz, the Pic Rouge de Pailla (9107 ft. ), Pic d'Astazou (10, 106 ft. ), the Cylindre (10, 916 ft), and even theMarboré (9964 ft. ) itself. 

Between the Marboré and the Epaule de Marboré (10673 ft. ), nearer thecentre of the Cirque, the celebrated Cascade du Marboré, (1380 ft. Inheight) dashes during the warmer months. The curious summits known asLa Tour (9902 ft. ) and La Casque (9862 ft. ), almost equidistant fromthe centre of the Cirque, on opposite sides, stood clearly before us, with the snow lying below each in the serrated shapes which give riseto the term "Chandelles du Marboré. " The Brêche de Roland was--as italways is from this view--invisible, hidden behind the Pic de Sarradets(8993 ft. ); but the Fausse Brêche beyond, and more to the right themagnificent Taillon (10, 323 ft. ), and the Pic de Gabiétou, with thePort de Gavarnie--a peculiar shoulder-like rock, below themboth--filled up the semicircle in all its wonderful entirety. When atlast we reached the point whence the whole can be viewed to mostadvantage, we did not require the assertion of the guide that we werein enjoyment of one of the best days of the year, to increase ouradmiration and delight. 

The amphitheatre, standing before us like the ruins of some mightyarena, in which the throngs of eager men and women and the blood of thedying gladiator had long given place to the purifying snow; the summitsaround uplifted towards the blue sky; the cascade, no longer dashing asfull of life and hope, but frozen in its course and hanging in iciclesbetween the rocks; the few uncovered crags scattered here and there, relieving the dazzling whiteness of the "glace éternelle"; the sparsetrees down the outer slopes struggling to free themselves from theirwinter cloak; the cloud of frost scintillating in the sunlight as amass of loosened snow rushed into the depths below;--was not such ascene as this, presented to our gaze in unveiled splendour, more thansufficient to bewilder in the intensity of its majesty and loveliness?

Yet even this was not all. The silence, the solemn and perfect silence, that reigned over the whole, only broken by the dull sound of thefalling avalanche or the shrill voice of the restless crow, was soevident and so powerful, and combined so impressively with themarvellous beauty of the surroundings, that the heart could not fail torecognise the sublimity of Nature and the omnipotence of Nature's God!

We stayed there for a long time, and with great reluctance turned ourhorses' heads from the scene; while even when we had done so, westopped at nearly every bend of the road for another look. 

[Illustration: THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER). ]

The exact distance from the hotel to the extreme end of the Cirque iscalculated at 33/4 miles, but we traversed little more than two-thirdsof that distance, on account of the depth of the avalanches, which werethen melting far too quickly to allow of dry walking any further. 

Arriving again at the hotel, the chatter of the women over some newarrivals was as deafening as ever. Our good guide Poc considered it wasnot to be borne any longer, so having counted the women and theirasses, he cleared a space in preparation for a mock sale at which theywere all to be put up, and having got us in front as make-believepurchasers, proceeded with the business, which we called

 "THE GUIDE'S AUCTION. "

 This way, sirs, this way! Will you please to walk up? The auction I'm ready to start: I'm instructed to sell all these valuable lots, And the bidding I hope will be smart. 

 You see by the catalogue, forty clear lots-- Thirty women; ten asses; some small. To proceed then, we'll take them, sirs, just as they are, Say forty fine donkeys in all. 

 They've plenty of sinew, and as to their voice, I think about that you well know. The first lot then, gents; shall we say fifteen francs? Well then, ten; but that's rather too low. 

 In our country for ladies we've heaps of respect, But we've fully enough and to spare; And we know that "two women a market will make, And that three are enough for a fair. "[1]

 * * * * *

 Now then, gents, please be sharp! No advance? No advance? The candle[2] burns fast to the end. Ten francs for this wonderful native--ten francs! Why, surely, that's nothing to spend!

 No bidding? Good gracious! Why what shall I do To oblige you? I'll class them as one: Now what do you say for the whole forty lots? Make a bid, sirs, I want to have done. 

 Fifty francs for the lot; see the candle's nigh out: Fifty francs, take them all as they rise. What! No one will buy them? Alas! I must say You're all most uncommonly wise. 

 They clamour and chatter the whole of the day, I believe they snore loudly at night; Oh, if only a Barnum would take them away, You don't know how I'd dance with delight!

[Footnote 1: His exact words were, "Dans mon pays, monsieur, nousdisons qu'il faut trois femmes pour faire une foire, et deux pour unmarché. "]

[Footnote 2: Alluding to the custom in France of burning bits of candleto denote the time in which the bidding may proceed; usually when thethird piece goes out the bidding for the special lot is finished, andthe next is proceeded with. ]

This last verse was very easy to understand, as the women are alwaysanxious to obtain occupation for a lesser remuneration[1] than thequalified guides, who naturally dislike this interference between themand their earnings, although no bad feeling really exists on thematter. 

[Footnote 1: There is a good tale told, _à propos_ of this, of agentleman in San Francisco who wanted some wood chopped. An Americanoffered to do it for a dollar, but a Chinaman asked only half. Thegentleman, thinking it best to help his own countryman, gave the Yankeethe job; but happening to pass the yard during the day, he found theChinaman busily at work. "Hullo!" cried he, "I didn't give the job toyou. Who told you to cut this wood?" "Melican man" (American man), responded the pigtailer. "And how much is he paying you?" "Hap dollar, "replied the Celestial. And the swell went away resolved never to helphis countryman again. ]

After an enjoyable kettledrum, the tea being our own and made underpersonal supervision, Miss Blunt perched herself on a hillock tosketch, and Mr. Sydney explored the neighbourhood for flowers, of whichgentians were the principal object of his search. Both having in acertain degree attained their ends, we started again at half-past four, and after a pleasant drive, which lasted two hours instead ofthree--the time occupied in coming--we reached our quarters in the bestof tempers and not with the worst of appetites. 

CHAPTER IX. 

FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. 

A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter'sstatue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the greatpilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "guide, philosopher, and friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête atPayole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The River Neste--Hôtel deFrance--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wildnarcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination. 

With a morning as lovely as the day of our arrival had been dreary, weleft at 9. 15 for Bagnères de Bigorre, the first part of our long drive. The valley, more fully clothed than it was a week ago, looked so freshin the warm sunlight, with the river winding along, that we felt veryloath to leave. The gorge below, all the way to Pierrefitte, added itsshare of beauty, and the graceful white heath growing up its sidesloaded the air with a sweet scent. The wide expanse of the Argelèsvalley, with the busy farmers ploughing, sowing, or cutting the heavyclover crop; the lazy oxen ever patiently plodding beneath their heavyburdens; the Château de Beaucens--where the orchids grow--perched up onthe hillside; the surrounding peaks throwing off their snowy garb; andthe beautiful young leaves and tints, everywhere mingling with thebrightness of the flowers blooming on the slopes or amid the wavinggrasses, made a scene as picturesque as it was charming. 

Compared with the scenery so far, the remainder of the drive toLourdes, which we reached in three hours from the time of starting, though full of many pleasant corners in which the river heightened theeffect, was nevertheless not so fine; but Lourdes itself looked moreattractive than on our former visit. After lunch, while the horses wereresting, we drove in a local milord [Footnote: A kind of victoria. ] tothe church, as we had omitted before to visit the chapel built in thecrypt underneath. In the entrance is the fine bronze statue of St Peterclasping the key, similar to the one in Rome both in size and in thehighly-burnished appearance of the toes of the right foot, for whichlatter the affectionate pilgrims are answerable. On either side of thestatue a corridor lined with marble tablets--presented by "grateful"individuals in acknowledgment of cures and cleansings--and dotted withconfessional boxes, leads down to the chapel. The repulsive gaudinessof the tinsel display in the church above it is almost absent here, andthough the same exaltation of the Virgin over our Saviour is manifest, yet otherwise this chapel, with its vaulted roof and its quietude, seems far more fitted for meditation and prayer. 

Taking the easy gradient at the west end of the church, between thegrassy slopes planted with lilacs and other shrubs and trees, wearrived at the grotto. A huge platform was in course of erection, forthe great pilgrimage expected from England in about a week, and thenoise of the workmen combined with the sparse gathering of"worshippers" detracted greatly from the former pitiable solemnity ofthe scene, though the stand of candles was flaring with light, and thecrutches, in their horrid rows, were still there. 

We left Lourdes again at three o'clock, the sun still very warm, as thelazy attitudes of the peasants working in the fields attested; and, passing several crosses at the roadside--"ornamented" with pincers, hammer, nails, and sword, with a bantam cock on the top--reached thebase of the col (600 feet high) which separates the respective basinsof the Adour and the Echez. Half-way up the hill we discovered Mr. Sydney, who had walked on ahead, very busy with a team of oxen, towardswhich, having encountered them without a driver, he had taken uponhimself to act as "guide, philosopher, and friend"; and by dint ofgreat application of his umbrella, open and shut, in the last-mentionedcapacity, he brought them to, and kept them at, a standstill by theside of the road till the carriage passed. 

From the top of the hill we enjoyed an extensive view, the Pic du Midide Bigorre standing out wonderfully clear. Descending again, we joinedthe Tarbes road crowded with market carts, and leaving the village ofMontgaillard on the left, duly arrived at Bagnères de Bigorre, where wewere received with open arms by Monsieur and Madame Bourdette. 

The morrow being Sunday, was spent in resting, the magnificent weatherstill continuing. The trees on the Coustous and the different hillsaround were at length well covered with foliage, and gave a prettierappearance to the town, which the ever-flowing streams by theroadsides greatly added to. In the evening the Orphéon (or local ChoralSociety) gave an open-air concert from the roof of one of the Coustouscafés. A tremendous crowd of some 2000 persons had gathered under thetrees to listen, and kept perfectly still while the songs proceeded. The solos were not particularly wonderful, but the beautiful blendingof the voices in the Pyrenean part-songs was a very great treat, andthe sounds, floating deliciously away on the soft evening air, could beheard like some whispering echo for a long distance. 

[Illustration: ]

We had some difficulty in arranging for a carriage, on the followingday, for Luchon, as a great number had been engaged for the fête atPayole, and for those not yet taken high prices--considering the timeof year--were asked. Not wishing, however, to lose a day, we settledfor a landau and three horses to do the journey in two days--for 110francs, including _pourboire_--stopping the night at Arreau. Theday broke, like its predecessors, perfectly fine, and at 10. 30 we madeour adieus to Bigorre, and were on our way. 

The scenery all the way to Payole was more charming than when we drovethere [Footnote: See pages 40-44. ] previously, and on our arrival atthe Hôtel de la Poste there was a considerable difference visiblethere. The courtyard was filled with carriages, and a busy throngbuzzed about the doors, while the windows were occupied by a variety offorms. Having with great difficulty secured utensils, we unearthed thelunch, and proceeded with our meal at a side-table. The participatorsin the fête, who were all men, occupied the centre table, and otherswere at the side. The noise they made was not appetising, and thoughthey mixed wines considerably, their jokes did not improve; yet thescene was a very typical one of "Frenchmen out for a holiday. " Afterour repast, we adjourned to see the fête, and a wonderful treat it was!Tame rabbits and fowls, fastened to a stake driven into the hillside, some 90 to 100 yards from the road, were the targets, at which aperpetual round of shots soon commenced. Double-barrelled guns loadedwith ball were the usual weapons; one or two single-barrelled piecesand a rifle or two being occasionally seen. 

The marksmen seemed peculiarly poor ones, from the country lad, or thegenuine 'Arry, with huge check clothes, to the moustached "masher, "with tight trousers and rounded jacket. About one "poulet" in fiftyshots succumbed, and a white rabbit's dismissal was received with loudacclamations. 

At 2. 30, exactly two hours after our arrival, we were off again, andsoon entered the pine forest. It looked very bonny in the brightsunlight, while the view from the Col d'Aspin was singularlyfelicitous. Not a cloud anywhere. The mighty Posets, the Pic d'Arbizon, and the other snow-crowned heights, softened by distance and beautifiedby the tints in the foreground, stood out against the azure sky in alltheir splendour. 

The Aure valley, as we descended, and the tiny hamlet of Aspin, lookedvery peaceful and lovely; in fact, the whole of the extensivescene--considered one of the finest to be enjoyed by driving in thePyrenees--seemed to spread out its charms before us. 

Winding down the splendid road, Arreau was soon in view, and at 4. 30 wedrove under the portico of the Hôtel de France, somewhat dusty, butwholly pleased. With some time to spare before dinner, we set out toexplore this wonderfully quaint, and--though dirty--strikinglypicturesque old town. A road leads from the courtyard of the hotelstraight to the very ancient-looking market-place and the river, atwhich point the latter is crossed by a very old wooden bridge. Traversing this, and passing several curious houses with verandahsreaching over the street, we found ourselves at the ancient Chapelle deSt. Exupère, built during the 9th and 10th centuries, but now restored. The windows are of fine stained glass, and the view from the belfrytower, over the peculiar old town--with its curious turrets and roofs, whose best days have long passed--is worth the somewhat arduous mountto get to it. The peasant girl who stands inside the door, and in asing-song voice that never varies mixes up saints, fathers, towns, corn, potatoes, bells, and "quelque chose pour le gardien, " in herrigmarole, was the least attractive adjunct of the venerable pile!

Down a little alley, across the river, directly opposite the church, Miss Blunt discovered a suitable spot for a sketch, [Footnote:Unhappily this sketch was afterwards lost, so cannot be reproduced] andon the production of materials and a chair from a neighbouring grocer'sshe set to work, and in spite of the nearness--we might say the "tooodoriferous nearness "--of a dust-heap, a drain, and a swarm of midges, she gallantly pursued her task till it reached a highly satisfactorytermination. 

Leaving the "ambrosial spot" (Jupiter save us!) we followed the roadleading past the old market-place at right angles to the wooden bridge, and reached the church of Notre Dame. Though more modern than the"Chapelle, " it is at least three centuries old, having been built onthe ruins of the one originally erected in the 12th century. The woodenreredos behind the altar, and other wooden carvings, seemed especiallygood, but the curé, jingling a bunch of keys, preceded by an abbé, seemed anxious to see us depart; so we prematurely left. Strolling backthrough the town, and over the stone bridge that spans the Neste, wewalked for a short distance on the other side, and then past thepost-office and the Hôtel du Midi, to our own quarters for dinner. TheHôtel de France, as it is called, is the best in Arreau, but isnevertheless not much more than a fairly large country inn. The roomsare very clean, and the food good, but the arrangements are somewhatprimitive; yet for all this we were very well satisfied on the whole, though the necessity of starting at nine o'clock next morning preventedus indulging in rhapsodies. 

When we left the courtyard and passed through the back part of the townby the old church, the sky was still of the same lovely hue, thoughunhappily there was hardly a breath of wind. Notwithstanding thatArreau is charmingly placed, and that the trees were fairly forwardthere, we soon found at a very slight increase of altitude that thiswas not to last; in fact, almost at once after passing Bordères (2-1/4miles)--an old village with a castle of Jean V. , a change wasapparent. Two miles further brought us to the insignificant hamlet ofAvajan, and another three of continual ascent to the outskirts ofLouderville (3280 ft. ), with its old watch-tower (14th cent. ) and coolcascade. Here we had a fine view of the valley below, and passed fieldscovered with oxslips, cowslips, and other flowers; while lower down, meadow after meadow was whitened by the lovely wild narcissus. Following at a very easy pace the long zigzags (two hours and a halffrom Arreau), we reached the highest point of the road at the Port orCol de Peyresourde [Footnote: 35 miles from Bigorre, n. From Arreau. ](5070 ft), whence the view, though much more limited than that from theCol d'Aspin, extends over the valleys of Louron and Arboust, and manysnow-peaks as well. 

As we descended the splendid winding road at a rattling pace, with theslipper on the wheel, we quickly left barren trees and slopes behind, and even at Garin, that curious village built among the rocks, thesilver birches were opening their leaves. Passing in turn the villagesof Cazaux, with its 12th century church, and St. Aventin, with itsdouble-towered church of a similar date, also, we sped under mostsplendid avenues of sycamore, elm, lime, and ash, past dashing streamsand bright flower-clothed slopes--always descending--till we enteredLuchon: Luchon surrounded by magnificent hills, Luchon guarded by thedistant but ever-majestic snow summits, Luchon bathed in the scent oflilac and other sweets, Luchon cooled and beautified by avenues andsquares of bright trees, and by gardens filled with the loveliest ofshrubs and flowers. Such was the Luchon presented to us as we drovethrough the splendid streets and reached our hotel. 

CHAPTER X. 

BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON. 

The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and itsgenial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher--TheVallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively scene--The viewfrom Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's Appeal"--Visit to theOrphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St. Mamet--"A Stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and jockey dodges--Lizards inflight--Fashion on a donkey--On the Portillon 'twixt France andSpain--The Valley of Aran--Snug Bosost--A curious inn--Children withartistic bent--A bright pathway--Missing much, but thankful still. 

The most delightful of weather throughout our stay doubtless addedgreatly to our enjoyment of Luchon, and our willingness to agree withits title as "The Pearl of the Pyrenees "; and, in fact, to all peoplebut those who love dust, noise, and fashion, this month of May is thepleasantest time of the year to go, see, and be happy. 

The great bathing establishment, situated as it is in a lovely garden(Quinconces) with a charming lake overhung with the graceful weepingwillows, and under the wooded sides of Superbagnères, seems to inviteone to enter and bathe. When we looked in, very little business wasgoing on, and one of the attendants, in the hope of receiving a smallcoin, was nothing loath to show us round. 

It is the largest and most efficiently arranged of all the Pyreneanestablishments, and can accommodate over 200 people at the same time;"douche" baths, swimming baths, ordinary baths, rooms for inhaling, rooms for "pulverisation, " seemed to succeed one another with unendingrapidity, as we followed our guide down long corridors or up flights ofstairs; and when at last it was all over, and he had quietly andcontentedly pocketed his coin, we felt as though we had been takingquite a long walk. 

[Illustration: "THE 'PEARL' IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY. "]

The Allée d'Etigny--the principal street--and all the other_allées_, notably the Allée des Bains, make most delightfulpromenades, even in the heat of the day, so delightful is the shadeafforded by the trees that line the way on either side. To walk fromthe "Thermes" along the Allée des Bains, turning into the Casinogardens, or continuing further--leaving the "Chute de la Pique" on theright--along the riverside till the road to Montauban cuts it at rightangles, is a most delicious evening stroll. We prolonged this, bytaking the road in question between the poplars up to the village ofMontauban itself; but found more interest in the beautiful new churchthan in the waterfall at the back of the village, which is gained bypassing through the good cure's garden, and for which privilege half afranc is charged. The church, of white stone, very symmetrically builtand of quite a different architecture from the usual French types, stands out imposingly at the entrance to the village, backed up by thetree-clad hills and the cottages beyond. The interior is most chasteand tasteful, as different from the usual Roman Catholic interior as isthe outside from the general exterior, the texts on the pillars nearthe entrance being quite an unusual feature. Whether the decoration wasnot yet finished, and the tinsel therefore not yet arrived, we couldnot learn; but are afraid it is only too probable, as the church, as itstood, might have been one of our own; for even the gilt pulpitharmonised so well with the rest, that it did not detract from thereligious and solemn effect, while the light through thefinely-coloured windows threw a softening glimmer over all. 

[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN. ]

We returned by a short cut through the fields on the left and thegarden of the Villa Russe, whose owner, "charmant et gentil, " not onlyshowed us all over, but very kindly invited us to a strawberry feast amonth hence--which sorrowfully we had to decline--as well as making usfree of his garden and fields, the latter being filled with thesweet-scented narcissus. 

The Hôtel Canton, in which we were staying, was very convenientlysituated and comfortable. While standing in a quiet part of the Rued'Espagne it was close to the post-office and casino on the one hand, and the bathing establishment and the Jardin des Quinconces on theother. Moreover, the stables of Jean Sanson--a most excellent guide forall excursions--were close at hand, and his horses would be difficultto beat; while his son Luis is experienced in all trips and ascents, not only in the vicinity, but over a large part of the Pyrenees. 

The new casino, barely three years old, is situated in as charming aquarter as could well be imagined, for besides possessing a finelylaid-out garden with many fine shrubs and trees, it is bounded by threebeautiful _allées_ as well. As previously mentioned, it can begained by the Allée des Bains, but the most direct way to the buildingitself, from our hotel, was by keeping to the right along the Rued'Espagne and the narrow street beyond (the post-office being to theleft), opposite which a side entrance leads to the imposing edifice. 

The three most popular excursions from Luchon are those to the Port deVenasque, the mountain pass at the head of the Pique Valley; the Valléedu Lys and the Cascades; and thirdly, the ascent of Superbagnères. 

The greatest of all, and in truth the greatest in the Pyrenees, is theascension of the Pic de Nethou (11, 170 ft. ), the highest of the range, and its two great buttresses, the Pics Maladetta (10, 867 ft. ) andMilieu (11, 044 ft). None but experienced mountaineers, with the mostexperienced guides, attempt this ascent, which is attended with muchdanger; but there are many other delightful trips in the vicinity, including a visit to the Spanish village of Bosost; up the Aran valleyto Viella; a drive to the picturesquely-placed St. Béat, or to the oldRoman town of St. Bertrand de Comminges. 

Pleasant walks and drives are probably more numerous from Luchon thanfrom any other Pyrenean resort, and though we were rather too early inthe year for mountain climbing, the fine weather enabled us to enjoyseveral other outings, which we will describe in turn. 

The Vallée du Lys and the Rue d'Enfer make an agreeable picnic, eitherin a carriage as far as the "Cabanes du Lys" (6-1/4 miles), and thenhorses for the other 3-3/4 miles up to the abyss, the cascades, and theRue d'Enfer, or on horseback all the way. We preferred the latter, andtaking a good lunch in the saddle-bags, made a start at the favouredhour of ten. Under the lee of the Quinconces, past the Hôtel Richelieu, Villa Richelieu, and the elevated Villa Marguerite, and we were fairlyon our way, the air sweetly laden with the scent from the flower-deckedfields and the lilac-trees in the gardens. 

When we passed the little road on the left leading to the Orphanage ofNotre Dame du Rocher, the lilac-scent was very strong; and the positionof the various buildings in connection with the institution seemed soattractive that we determined to take a stroll there later on. Pursuingour way, with the restored ruin of the Castelvieil above us on its"monticule" overlooking the Orphanage, we were soon in a narrower partof the valley, with the wooded slopes on either side. Then we crossedthe river to the left bank, which we followed until reaching the pointwhere the road to the Hospice and the Port de Venasque led to the left, and ours crossed the river by a neat bridge (the Pont de Ravi) to theright bank again. A little beyond this, the route for Superbagnères--which we hoped to take another day--struck off among thetrees on the right of the road, which in turn gradually bent in thesame direction all up the beautiful Lys valley, till it again curved inthe opposite direction and arrived at the base of the Cascades, wherethere is a fair inn (Auberge du Lys). [Footnote: Only in summer. ] Fromthence the road forks, but the track to the left is the better of thetwo, at any rate if on foot, and by it--after fifteen minutes'labour--the foot of the Cascade d'Enfer is reached; and the Pontd'Arrougé in another quarter of an hour. A similar length of time isstill necessary to reach a small tower whence a good view of theGouffre d'Enfer and the Pont de Nadie, above it, can be enjoyed. Thistower is about a mile distant from the foot of the lowest fall. Theother cascade (the Cascade du Coeur) is not a very difficult twentyminutes' walk by a path that leads through the trees to Lac Vert, andas there is a capital inn there (later in the season), we think thatthis would be a good spot for lunch. Even as it was, we managed toenjoy ours pretty well, for fresh air and sunshine are good appetisers, and the ride had added its effect besides. The return ride in theafternoon, when the sun was commencing to decline a little, was verypleasant, and the snow-covered Port de Venasque, so beautiful in itswhiteness, and yet for the same reason quite inaccessible, looked verylovely when tinged with the crimson hue that the setting sun shot o'erit, as we arrived in Luchon again. 

[Illustration: THE RUE D'ENFER AND CASCADES. ]

The following morning broke beautifully fine, and Luis Sanson was atthe door punctually at seven, with the horses for our trip up toSuperbagnères. 

The saddle-bags were again filled, and away we went, the horses--stillso fresh--being eager for a canter in the fresh morning air. In summerthe ascent is usually made by St. Aventin and the Granges de Gouron, inwhich case the road towards the Col de Peyresourde is followed as faras St. Aventin, and thence a way leading to the left; but we were tooearly for that route, as an avalanche had only lately fallen, so wereobliged to go and return by the route used in the season for the returnonly, viz. , by the "Pont de Ravi" up the Vallée de la Pique. Havingreached the bridge and taken the path indicated by the sign-board onthe right, we were soon among the trees, which lent a very welcomeshade from the increasing heat, which even at this early hour (7. 40A. M. ) the glorious Sol was not ashamed to diffuse. 

At every fresh turn the strokes of the axe rang through the wood, mingled with the sound of voices, and after making considerableprogress--during which our guide narrated incidents in his career ashunter, guide, and jockey--we arrived in view of a very lively scene. Workmen busy with the hatchet, the saw, and the plane, in theforeground; others in the rear occupied with mortar and stones, building a small but substantial house; a cart with oxen lazilywaiting, like Mr. Micawber, for "something to turn up"; a few superiorindividuals in deep consultation, and the irrepressible sun strugglingthrough the beeches and pines to have "his finger in the pie"--such wasthe scene we saw, but soon left behind. After this the good broadcarriage-road soon came to an end, and the easy gradient changed to asteep path among a grove of nothing but beeches, which emerged later onthe slope of a somewhat bare and stony hill dotted with a few gentians. The view improved with nearly every step, growing magnificently vast;and when at length we reached the summit, or rather a mound a few feetlower, but equally good as a point of sight (for the summit was coveredwith snow), we gazed on as grand an expanse of mountains andtree-clothed valleys as imagination could picture in the most lofty ofits lofty flights. 

[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES. ]

Probably but few people will be disposed to deny that, considering thecomparatively small amount of labour necessary to attain the summit, itis more than amply compensated for; and, when the height ofSuperbagnères--which is only 5, 900 ft. --is taken into account, such agrand sight is almost unique. For over two-thirds of a circle the chainof peaks continues, extending from the Céciré of Superbagnères to theCéciré [Footnote 1: We have only the guide's authority for this namehere. ] above Bosost, and even beyond. Beginning with the nearest, theCéciré (8, 025 ft. ) of Superbagnères, then come the Pêne de Montarqué(9685 ft. ), and the cone-shaped Quairat (10, 037 ft. ), followed by thehuge glacier of Crabioules, which, in spite of its eternal snow, supplies the various cascades in the Rue d'Enfer that flow into the Lysvalley. Above rise up the Pic de Crabioules (10, 233 ft), the Pic deBourn (9, 875 ft), and the peculiar Tuc de Maupas (10, 204 ft. ); afterwhich the Trous d'Enfer and the Pic de Sacroux (8, 786 ft) appear. Thenext of the near peaks is the Pic de Sauvegarde (9, 145 ft), but betweenthe Sacroux and this, calm and clear, the highest peaks of the range, the Milieu, the Maladetta, and the Nethou, with the dead white glacierbelow them, rise in view. After the Sauvegarde, the Pic de la Mine(9, 048 ft. ), the Port de Venasque (7, 930 ft. ), and the very pointed Picde la Pique (7, 854 ft. ) appear, followed by the Pas de l'Escalette(7, 877 ft. ) and the Port de la Picade (8, 219 ft. ), towards which groupthe Vallée de l'Hospice leads. 

To the left of the Picade, the cone of the lofty "Posets" may be seenin the distance, while more to the left, and more distant too, the PeñaBlanca (9222 ft. ) is also visible. Further round, over the wooded"cols" that guard the "Pique" valley, the Mont Ségu [Footnote: We haveonly the guide's authority for the name. ] and Céciré near Bosost, andthe _Pyrénées Orientales_ beyond, finished the magnificent chain. From another situation we could look down on Luchon and from this pointwere endeavouring to reach the little hut, where fodder and a fewprovisions can be found in the season, when an ancient shepherd bawledout in _patois_ that the place was as yet tenantless, for which wefelt thankful to that peasant, as it saved us a long tramp throughrather deep snow, though for that same reason we were unable to rewardhis forethought as it deserved. Leaving him to pursue his guilelessway, we descended into the beech grove for our lunch, and findinggrateful shade at the foot of a fine fir, we opened the saddle-bags andproceeded to regale ourselves, finding some snow that we brought fromthe top very useful to cool the rather heated claret. After nature wassatisfied we quickly descended past the previously busy scene, and whennear the high road again came in view of some woodmen loading a cartwith logs. To do this the logs had to be brought to an eminence abovethe cart, and bullocks were employed to drag up the wood. The men weretreating them most cruelly, and once or twice they lowed so piteously, that we have translated it into

"THE OXEN'S APPEAL. "

 Working and toiling the whole of the day, Working and toiling without any pay, Only perchance a few mouthfuls of hay, From earliest dawn till late. Held by the horns 'neath this cumbersome yoke, Firmer fixed thus than a "pig in a poke, " Feeling the "prong" and the lengthy stick's stroke, Ours, alas, is a terrible fate. 

 When straining our utmost, you bring the stick down On our miserable backs; and you swear, and you frown, Never thinking the sun is just "doing us brown, " As the furnace will do when we're slain. We cannot pull more than we can, you must know, And we cannot pull fast if we can but pull slow, So why should you spike us, and ill-use us so, And make our hides tingle with pain?

 We serve you well always, draw heaviest loads, And never complain of the worst of bad roads; While you in return use those blood-drawing goads At ev'ry conceivable time. Be sure that no quicker or wiser are we, But we _do_ sometimes think if we got our horns free, The position in which you would probably be, And you would not pronounce it sublime. 

 So listen, we pray, to our modest appeal: With kindness more proud of our work we should feel; And if those fierce blows you still ruthlessly deal, You'll make our flesh horrible stuff; For though steaks are good beaten, that's done when they're cold, And we're certainly not, nor as yet very old; But as some day we'll have to be butchered and sold, We had better be tender than tough. If you'll try our plan--that is enough!

At twenty minutes past one we had repassed the graceful Jardin desQuinconces, with the weeping willows overhanging the lakelet, and werewithin the cool precincts of the hotel. 

Having a couple of hours to spare another morning, we wended our waytowards the Orphanage, "deep in the lilac grove. " Turning off from theroad, we followed the narrow track over the rustic bridge, and werereceived anything but hospitably by a huge white dog. We calmed him intime, however, and proceeded to inspect the buildings, but found nearlyeveryone shut up, though the little church--elevated above therest--was, unlike them, thrown open. Its very rusticity and simplicitygave it a religious air which to us so few Roman Catholic edifices seemto possess. The badly-spelt and feebly-worded address to the Pope, towhich he has affixed his signature, that hangs in a frame near thedoor, we did not consider much of an attraction, though to the membersof the little congregation it would doubtless be a very holy relic. Forsaking this peaceful retreat, we climbed up the ascent behind, within view of the statue of the Virgin, but soon descended again, asthe sun was at that time particularly "baking, " and we were not doughtyenough to pretend to resist it. After a cool spell near thechapel-door, watching the "painted ladies" [Footnote: Butterflies, ofcourse!] playing with the lilac blossoms, we trudged slowly back again. 

One of the pleasantest as well as most interesting of our trips in thePyrenees was from Luchon to the little Spanish village of Bosost, andas it is one of the principal pillars that uphold the chief title ofthis volume, it deserves a detailed mention. 

This time the favourite hour of ten was not early enough for starting, so we were on horseback by 9. 15, going very leisurely, being quiteundesirous to force the pace, as the day was warm even at that hour. 

Up the Rue d'Espagne for a short distance beyond the Hôtel Richelieu(which hotel, from all we have heard, though large, is not too moderatenor owned by too polite a proprietor), and then we took the turning tothe left, which (as the signboard tells) leads to St. Mamet. Withoutwaiting to enter the old church to see its frescoes, we pursued theroad branching off to the right, which presently left the Orphanagebehind in the same direction. A few minutes later we had passed thefrontier (French) custom station, and leaving the isolated Castelvieil(2514 ft. ) for a short time on our right, and later in our rear, webore up the Vallée de Burbe. We had only progressed a short distancewhen a huge rock was visible in the centre of the road, evidently avery recent gift from the adjacent height. Our horses having been solittle used, were very fresh and rather fond of shying, and ourguide's, which was an Arab, not only shied at the impediment, butwheeled round with the intention of going homewards. As we managed tomake our own, however, pass quietly, the obstreperous one, after abrief struggle, was induced to follow their example. A little furtheron, we met a fine team of Spanish mules in their full picturesquetrappings and bells. The two men in charge of them were dressed alittle untidily, but their attire was equally picturesque, the colouredwaistband, turban, and knee-breeches producing a very bright effect. 

The bright yellow-green of the beeches, mingling with the dark andgloomy olive shade of the firs; here and there fields laden with theblue columbine and the "overrated" asphodel; the boulder-strewn slopeson our left, and the snow-ridges on the right; and the strong, fresh, and foaming cascade of Sidonie tumbling down beside us, made a verydelicious contemplation as we went on our way. 

Our guide in a most "gallant" manner got off his steed to gather MissBlunt a few flowers, but when he endeavoured to assume his formerelevated position, the "Arab" didn't see it. In fact he _would notbe_ mounted, and the unevenness of the track added not a little tothe success of his manoeuvrings. "Luis" had not been six months a"jockey" for nothing, however; so he lulled his steed into a sense ofsecurity by walking beside it for some time in circus fashion, with hisright hand grasping the off side of the saddle, until a large stoneshowed its head at the side of the road. As they passed, he ran up thestone and was in the saddle before the animal realised that he wasbeaten, and when he did, it seemed to humble him to that degree that henever attempted even a curvet. 

The number of lizards we disturbed was something wonderful. None ofthem were very large or very striking in colour, but they made up forthis in animation; and their fearful trepidity and hurry to getanywhere out of sight was wonderful. 

Just before entering the sunlit beech glades we overtook a noblecavalcade, consisting of three ladies on three donkeys, with a fat oldwoman leading the way on foot. They had their lunch with them, andapparently intended--judging by a certain hungry look they had--to maketheir repast at the earliest opportunity. The young and beautiful ladybringing up the rear was probably ignorant of the ludicrous figure shemade with her "ultra" fashionable arrangement of steels, that gave herthe appearance of having a large clothes-bag under her dress, or wedon't think she would have started on the excursion in such a garment. If a member of the "Rational Dress Society" had seen her, there wouldprobably have been an "exhibition" on the spot, and a general one--withall the latest "improvements" (?)--at Luchon a few weeks later. 

After traversing a number of beautiful glades we entered the Firs--theBlack Forest as it is called, --where bears are hunted in the winter, and through which the road ascends by a series of zigzags to the summitof the Col de Portillon (4275 ft. ), and then descends for a shortdistance to the frontier, marked by a huge boulder, with the Frenchflag on one side and the Spanish on the other. As we reined in thehorses opposite to it for a moment, no one could dispute that we wereindeed "'twixt France and Spain. " But we did not stay to enjoy thisenviable position long; and passing on, endeavoured to realise that wewere no longer in France by fixing our eyes on the _PyrénéesOrientales_; we could also see the Poujastou (6332 ft. ) on our left, the Couradilles (6513 ft. ), the Mont Ségu, the Céciré, [Footnote: Wehad only our guide's authority for these names] and further forward theEntécade on our right. A short distance down the road there lay theCasino du Portillon, not yet opened for the summer gambling, and notvery much further (viz. , about a mile from the frontier), the Spanishcustom-house, and the Casino de Roulette. Here the road divides, thebranch to the Vallée d'Aran and Bosost bearing to the left, and theother, to Viella and the Artiques-Tellin, in the opposite direction. 

Passing some ruined houses and fertile slopes in our descent, we soonobtained a fine view up both ends of the Aran valley, with thediminutive Garonne winding through, and Bosost snugly situated on theslopes of a hill round a bend in the road. The sun was pouring down inall his midday strength as we passed the roadside chapel of St. Antoineand entered the antiquated little village of Bosost, stopping at theFonda de España for lunch. 

This inn, from the road, was as much unlike an inn as anything we eversaw, and its ways and passages were somewhat unique; but upstairs therewas a large room with a wide terrace facing the river, which onlywanted an awning over to be rendered delicious. We were unfortunatelytoo early in the season for this luxury, so had to content ourselveswith lunching in the room, with wide-opened doors. When the provisionswere spread out, in rushed the guide with an official document, and afranc to pay for having invaded Spain. We gave him the money, and askedto taste some honest country wine, which resulted in the domesticbringing us something rather strong, like new port, which did not gobadly with water. 

After the repast had passed pleasantly, we strolled out into thevillage, Miss Blunt being equipped with the requisites for a brilliantsketch. Unhappily, the subject was not easy to find, though we marchedthrough most of the streets; but having visited the ancientchurch--with its chime of bells, like many others in Spain, arranged ona wheel--we found a spot by the side of a huge elm from which there wasa good view of the sacred edifice. But it was a case of sketching underdifficulties, as the whole or at least the greater part of the villagechildren crowded round us, some carrying smaller children in theirarms, some playing with flowers, others cutting bits of wood, and oneand all managing to do their utmost to bother poor Miss Blunt. Sheaccordingly finished the sketch as quickly as possible, and we allreturned to the hotel to keep out of the oppressive heat. 

At three o'clock we started homewards, going rather faster than when wecame. Alternate clouds and sunshine overhead, the lights and shadowsover the trees, the fields--radiant with gentians, oxslips, columbine, _polygaloe_, and asphodel--losing none of their charm. 

At the Spanish custom-house we delivered up our passport, for which wehad paid the franc, and then wound over the Portillon and gently backto our hotel, not arriving too late for the cup that soothes andcheers, but never cheers too loudly. 

The morrow was to see us leaving Luchon--the charming, thebeautiful--and all of us had a similar feeling, viz. , that we mightsoon come and see the "Pearl of the Pyrenees" again. 

It was true that we had missed all the noise and excitement which comeswith the summer; that we had missed the troops of Pau-ites wearing outsuch of their "robes" as the heat would allow, and the throngs of gaySpaniards; that we had missed the crowds of invalids, the bands ofmusic, and the worst specimens of the travelling world, "Frenchtourists. " But it was a truth for which we were very grateful, and wewould certainly advise future visitors to take Luchon in the spring, and leave it before the heat and bustle of the season mar its peace, and the summer's sun melts the snowy splendour of the surroundingheights. 

CHAPTER XI. 

ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. 

Keeping to old friends--Valley history--Entering the Garonnevalley--The picturesque St. Béat--St. Béat to Viella--Memories of thelovely Thames--Baths of Ste. Marie--Loures--The cross-roads--Weakwalls--Entering St. Bertrand--An ancient house--The inn--A charminggarden--The cathedral--A national disgrace--"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand"--The tomb of Hugues de Chatillon--Travelling desecraters--St. Bertrand's rod--The ruined cloisters--Desolation--Swinefeeding--Montrejeau--The buffet--No milk!--French railwayofficials--Trying experiences. 

It was not many years ago that travellers with heavy luggage wereforced to travel in the clumsy diligence between Luchon and Montrejeau;and, especially in the summer when the press for places was great, verylittle comfort could be enjoyed during the journey, except perhaps on afine day, when for a short space the vehicle stopped at St. Bertrand deComminges. Now, the railway in an hour performs the whole distance; butwe preferred to keep to our old friends, a "landau and four horses, "and with the weather still propitious, left the comfortable HôtelCanton at our favourite time, and were soon bowling down the Alléed'Etigny. In a short time the Allée Barcugna and the station were leftbehind, and we entered the broader part of the valley of Luchon. Thisvalley was originally--_on dit_--a huge lake, and afterwards--presumably when it had ceased to be such--became peopled by a Gallicrace, whose "divinity, " Ilixo, [Footnote: Ilixo has now become Luchon. ]has given his name to the surroundings. We presume in this derivation"consonants are interchangeable and vowels don't count. "

Cier de Luchon (four and a quarter miles), above which to the weststands the Pic d'Antenac (6470 ft), was soon passed through, as wecrossed and recrossed the railway line, now following the River Pique, and now, for a short space, keeping along the line. Five miles further, and we left the Pique valley for that of the Garonne, passing throughthe village of Cierp, which lies to the right of Marignac, the stationwhere passengers alight for St. Béat. This is a very picturesquevillage, about three miles east, perched above the Garonne in a narrowdefile, possessing an ancient church and a good inn. The Pic de Gar(5860 ft. ), which rears up to the north of the village, is very rich inflora; and the road passing through it (St Béat) afterwards leads bythe villages of Arlos, Fos, and Lès to Bosost (twelve miles), whence itcontinues to Viella. 

The valley at this point is particularly fertile and lovely, and as weprogressed, frequently following the windings of the Garonne, memoriesof pleasant hours, both lively and dreamy, spent on some of the quietreaches on the dear old Thames, seemed naturally to recall themselves;the similarity of the surroundings being in some parts so great. 

At Saléchan (thirteen miles) the beautiful valleys of Siradan andBarousse branch off, and the scenery in the vicinity is deliciouslybright and peaceful-looking. The bathing resort of Ste. Marie lies amile northwards, and barely a mile to the west of it, on the road toMauléon, the baths of Siradan are situated. Mauléon (1960 ft. ) is threeand a quarter miles west from Siradan by the village of Cazaril, standing at the head of the Barousse valley. 

Still passing through charming country, we reached Loures (not to beconfounded with Lourdes), at which place--being the railway station forSt. Bertrand--carriages can be hired for the drive, a distance of sixmiles there and back. Traversing the village and crossing the bridge, we issued again on a vista of fields bright with trefoil and wavingflowers, and backed up by finely-wooded hills. Away to the right, nestling among the trees, stands a pretty little village and castle, and as we passed on, St. Bertrand came in view over the crest of awooded hill; and, arriving at the junction where the roads from Auch, Toulouse, and Ax join in, we ascended the hill on which this ancienttown is situated. 

Founded by Pompey the Great, B. C. 69, Lugdunum Convenarum, or Lyon, or--as it is now called--St. Bertrand de Comminges, though standingonly 1690 ft. Above the sea, seems from its isolated position, to bemuch higher; as the accompanying sketch by M. Doré testifies, thoughthe latter exaggerates the proportions of the cathedral. 

Though in a ruinous state, much of the old ramparts and fortificationsremain, while in some parts many of the old stones seemed to us to havebeen used for ornamental walls, such as no one would consider fit toresist even a very modest cannon-ball. 

Bearing to the left, we passed beneath the "Porte Cabirole, " oppositeto which stands a small kiosque, built, on account of the beauty of theview, at that point The road continues between high walls underneathanother archway, past the ruins of a curious house, with a windingstaircased tower of the 13th century, which alas! before this appearsin print, will probably have disappeared altogether; then bending tothe left, and again to the right after a few yards, we drew up at theCafé (called by courtesy Hôtel) de Comminges, with the ancientcathedral in full view. Having sent a telegram early in the morning, wefound lunch ready for us, and though we had fared better elsewhere, wedid not consider that for a "primitive Roman town" the meal was to befound fault with while as to the garden belonging to the inn, it wasindeed a charming little spot. Although in truth but little more than a"spot, " the bright and varied hues of its stocks, columbines, pansies, and sweet peas, with here and there a particularly fine iris, contrasting so effectively with the dark green of the ivy leaves andthe blackness of the berries clustering over the old wall, gave it acharm which we could not fail to feel; and the view from thecreeper-grown arbour over the richly-wooded hills and brilliant fields, with the bright garden as a background, made a scene to remember andenjoy. 

[Illustration: St. Bertrand De Comminges. ]

Notre Dame, or Sainte Marie, as the cathedral is called, attracted ourattention most, and though the front view is perfectly spoilt by thelofty scaffolding erected before it, the inside fully compensates forthis defect, although it is impossible to view the ruinous state ofsome portions without great regret. 

The English are supposed to be a very lucky people, and at any rate wehave reason to be thankful that we are not a republic, nor as a ruleneglectful of old historical buildings; and the sight of thismagnificent old place, mouldering away with no apparent aidforthcoming--except such as the liberality of occasional visitorsprovides, and that, for such a work, is practically _nil_--did notprovoke any wish to change our nationality. It is not as if the Frenchsaid, "We are becoming a Protestant people, and therefore wish todestroy all signs of our having once followed the faith of Rome;" forin that case censure would be utterly misplaced; but surely if thenational religion remains Roman Catholic, an ancient and wonderfullyinteresting old cathedral like this ought to be suitably preserved. 

Having been built at two different periods (viz. The close of the 11thand the middle of the 14th centuries), the architecture presents twodistinct styles, which in parts, are particularly incongruous. Theorgan and pulpit combined, which are on the left of the entrance, constitute a very handsome work of the "Renaissance" period, and aremost unique. On the opposite side of the building a crocodile--or theremains of one--hangs from the wall, doubtless brought, as M. Joannesuggests, from some Egyptian crusade; but the "church" puts a verydifferent complexion on the subject, as will be seen from thefollowing, which--with all its faults--will be, we trust, pardoned, since it issues from the mouth of so badly-treated a reptile as

 "THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND. "

 A crocodile truly, there's no one could doubt, On taking a look at my skin: It's as dry and as tough as a petrified clout, [1] Though, alas! there is nothing within. 

 I've been here on this wall for a jolly long time, And the "cronies" a legend will tell Of the wonderful things, void of reason and rhyme, That during my lifetime befell. 

 They'll tell you I lived in "this" beautiful vale, And found in the river a home; While even the bravest would start and turn pale, If they chanced in my pathway to roam. 

 They'll tell how I swallow'd the babies and lambs, And harassed the cows in the mead; And such slander completely my character damns, While I've no one to help _me_ to plead. 

 And they'll whine how I met the great Bertrand himself, The miracle-worker and saint. But those women will tell any "walkers" for pelf, And swear I'm all black--when I ain't. 

 Yes! they actually say that St. Bertrand came by, And lifted his ivory stick, Then dealt me a terrible blow in the eye, Which levell'd me flat as a brick. 

 But it's false! Just as false as that "here" I was brought

 On the back of that wonderful man. 

 But the crones just repeat what the "priesthood" have taught, And it's part of a regular plan. 

 Why, believe me, they caught me afloat on the Nile

 As my dinner I just had begun;

 I was chased by a host of the picked "rank and file, "

 And to them my destruction seem'd fun. 

 And when I was dead they anointed my bones, And placed me up here on the wall;

 But that organ at first was so loud in its tones, Of rest I found nothing at all. 

 A crocodile truly. You've heard my sad tale, And I say that such lies are a sin;

 While the protests I make, seeming nought to avail, Are enough to make any one thin!

[Footnote 1: This is a Yorkshire word, meaning "cloth. "]

[Illustration: THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND. ]

Turning away from this "priestly" monument to St. Bertrand's miraculouspowers, we passed along the side of the remarkable choir stalls--whichtake up the greater part of the edifice--and turned inside at anopening, near the high altar. The latter, decorated with the ordinarydisplay of 19th century tinsel, does not call for much comment, but ina passage close behind it stands the mausoleum of St. Bertrand, builtin 1432. The stalls were erected in the 16th century, and are worthy ofmuch attention. 

The rood loft, which is nearest the entrance to the cathedral, isornamented with figures of the Apostles and Saints, and the exteriorpanels running along both sides, and divided by small choicely-carvedcolumns, represent a diversity of figures; none, however, seeming tobear much, if at all, on religion. In the interior, besides the throne, there is a remarkable "tree of Jesse "--near the first stall on theright hand--which we thought was well done; but what with the differentfigures above each stall, the arabesques uniting them, and the lessminute work under each seat, there was no lack of carving to be seen;and even if it was not all of the highest order, the general effect wasstrikingly good. It is worth noting that the cathedral, owing to somegreat error, was built facing north instead of west, and thatconsequently the east side is on the left of the entrance. Half-way upthis side is the small chapel of Notre Dame de Pitié, in which the finemarble tomb of Hugues de Chatillon lies. The sculpture is especiallyfine, though the beauty is somewhat marred by names scratched with apin or written in pencil, wherever sufficient level space is afforded. Since English people as a rule are credited with being by far the mostnumerous of this class of travelling desecraters, it was at least asatisfaction to notice that most of the individuals, who had chosenthis objectionable--though probably the only--method of handing theirnames down to posterity, were French. This tomb was only erected in the15th century, although the good bishop died in 1352, the same year inwhich the edifice was finished. 

Several relics may be seen in the sacristy, and amongst them is thewonderful ivory rod with which the great St. Bertrand is supposed tohave slain the much-maligned crocodile. 

Close to the entrance to the sacristy a door leads into the cloisters, where the scene of ruin and desolation is painfully evident. In theportion nearest the church, which is roofed over, several curious_sarcophagi_ may be seen; the rest is a series of pillars andarches from which the roof has long vanished. In the photographs (whichmay be bought at the inn) there is some appearance of order even in themidst of the decay, but this was probably carefully effected prior tothe artist's visit; for when we were there the whole space wasovergrown completely with weeds, among which a rose-bush and a fewother flowers struggled to bloom, untended and apparently unthought of. 

Passing again through the cathedral, whose windows are well worthy ofmention, we made a detour round the town, and then started forMontrejeau. 

The road does not pass through such charming country as we had seen inthe morning, but at times there are some pleasing little bits. At onespot, where a grove of trees skirted the way, we noticed a large herdof swine, watched over by a solitary and silent female, to whom theyappeared to give no trouble, never seeming to stray far. 

Going at a fairly fast pace, we only took forty-five minutes to reachthe ancient town of Mons Regalis, now completely modernised intoMontrejeau. The advancing years have not only altered it in name, for, with the exception of the ruins of a twelfth-century castle, there isnothing to indicate its mediaeval origin; and as to the old-world lookthat is so pleasant to meet with, but now so rare, this town of the"Royal Mount" has no trace of it. The "buffet" at the station, however, can be recommended, although the "lacteal fluid, " either in its pure orwatered form, is decidedly scarce there. The dinner and coffee aregood, and, like most dinners at the stations (always excepting suchplaces as Amiens and Tours), moderate, when taken at the table d'hôte. 

We had plenty of time for a meal before the train destined to carry uson to Pau was due, but in spite of that, through the boorishness of thestation porters and staff generally, we did not depart without a livelyexperience. 

It is well known that ladies as a rule are wont to travel with numeroussmall parcels, and there was no exception in our party to this rule, while Mr. Sydney and myself were not without _impedimenta_ aswell. In all, there were about a dozen--to put a familiar figure--toosmall or too fragile to share the dangers of the luggage-van. These, three respective porters promised to bring to the train, but as everyporter broke his word, they remained _in statu quo_. And we mayhere remark how noticeable it is, that whereas English porters arealways on the alert to earn a few coppers, their French representativeswill rarely if ever help with anything but the registered luggage(which of course is in the company's charge), while a higher official, such as you would never ask in England, will occasionally assist--ifdesired to do so with politeness--but only occasionally. It is evidentthat the French Government reduce the staff to the narrowest limits, and do not intend porters to help in transporting any luggage but thatwhich has been paid for in registration; and on the same principle asarmies are organised in South America, for every "porter" there will betwo or three superintendents. 

To resume. --This perfidy of the porters placed us in a very unenviableposition; the train was due to start, the ladies were in the carriage, but the luggage was in a pile at the other side of the station, and Mr. Sydney, thinking all was well, had followed the ladies. I was requestedto do likewise, as the train was off; but instead of so doing, launchedsuch a tirade at the head of every official within reach, that theykept the train waiting to return it; at last, seeing I was obdurate, atleast half a dozen rushed to the offending pile, collared the variousitems, and bore them towards our compartment. As the first instalmentarrived I got up, and the train started. The rest of the ladenofficials were ranged a few yards apart, and as our carriage passed, the packages and cloaks were thrown in. The scene they presented whenthe door was first shut was unique, but very deplorable, and itrequired the whole of the journey of four and a half _hours_ toPau, to calm our troubled minds, cool our heated frames, and make uslook with equanimity on our experience. It would require _years_to efface the opinion formed on "French railway station" management; soin that we followed a method often pursued by schoolboys in early life, over the "Pons asinorum, " and gave it up. 

CHAPTER XII. 

EAUX BONNES AND EAUX CHAUDES. 

Carriage _v_. Diligence--Early birds--Height ofabsurdity--Diminutive donkeys--A whitened region--"Crystalclear"--Washerwomen and their gamps--A useful town-hall--A halfwayhouse--Moralising--A much-loved pipe--An historic ruin--A noteworthystrong box--"Ici on rase"--Where are the bears?--Women ingaiters--Picturesque costumes--A lovely road--A "perfect" cure--Aspring scene--A billiard-playing priest--A well-placed pavilion--TheValentin and its cascades--Through solid rock--Gaps in the road--Agrand scene--Wanted, an artist--A fine torrent--Professionalfishers--Lucky guests--Musings--Poor Mr. Tubbins--Bonnes _v_. Chaudes--Over the Col de Gourzy--Peculiar teams--Guelderroses--Spinning. 

Next year, travellers with luggage will probably be able to reach EauxBonnes in a much shorter time than now, since the railway ought then tobe in working order as far as Laruns; but at the period when this waswritten, the only choice of conveyances lay between a clumsy diligenceand a comfortable carriage. 

Very few people would be likely to hesitate between the two, providedthey were not travelling alone, and in that case even, they wouldprobably only take the former as an "experience. "

The "diligence" which starts from the Hôtel de la Poste at Pau hasthree compartments, for a seat in any of which the respective chargesare 8 frs. 80 cents, 7 frs. 70 cents, and 6 frs. 60 cents. The"first-class" seats--which are of course the best--are placed behindthe driver, and a large dusty-looking hood shields the passengers fromthe rain, but not from the dust, nor, since it is black and low, fromthe heat of the sun. The position therefore, even with ampleaccommodation, is a trying one, but when tightly packed, and wedged inwith luggage to boot, on a warm summer or even spring day, the lot ofan individual during the 5-1/2 hours' journey, with only a half-hour'sbreak between, would, like the policeman's, be certainly not "a happyone. "

When a party are going it is of course cheaper to take a carriage, which may be had for from 35 to 50 francs to do the trip in one day, orat the rate of 25 francs per diem, taking it for two days or more. Asthe distance between Pau and either Eaux Bonnes or Eaux Chaudes is271/2 miles, and the distance of the one watering-place from the other61/4 miles, the actual mileage from Pau and back again is 611/4 miles, to perform which in one day, and see the two towns as well, is afeat--though often done--hardly to be recommended. At least two daysshould be given to the task, and we do not think they would beregretted. 

The heat in Val d'Ossau during the summer months is very great, and thelumbering old diligence usually runs during the hottest part of theday; we preferred an early start, and by half-past six were on theroad, meeting a few people apparently wending their way towards themarket, with flowers and vegetables for sale. Crossing the bridge andthrough Jurançon, where hardly a soul was astir, we sped along thedusty road to Gan (5 miles), at which town--one of the chief centres ofthe wine district--a road to Oloron branches off to the right. Here theinhabitants were really beginning to bustle; and as it was getting ontowards eight o'clock, they were nothing too early, although they mayhave held a different opinion. At the corner of one of the streets wecame upon a team drawing a long cart, which we unanimously christenedthe "height of absurdity. " A pair of 17-hand horses were in the shafts, and in front, attached as a leader, was the smallest of donkeys. MissBlunt thought it the _smallest donkey in the world_; but we havemet with so many lately in the Pyrenees which were in turn, in heropinion, the smallest she had ever seen, that by this time the smallestdonkey might be but little bigger than a rat; this, however, was notthe case, as Mr. Sydney will attest. 

The valley grew more lovely as we progressed, with the winding Néezstream running with merry music beside the road, and although Mrs. Blunt did not indulge--as on the way to Cauterets--in any raptures ofher own, she was quite willing to agree with the rest that the frequentresemblance of the scenery to many of the lovely bits we have in Waleswas most pleasantly apparent. 

Shortly before reaching the blanched region of the lime-works (71/2miles), we caught a momentary glimpse of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau (9466ft. ), on which the summer sun had of late so relentlessly played, thatthe snowy crown had quite disappeared. Rebénac (93/4 miles) was reachedat 8. 40, and there we crossed the Néez by a stone bridge, the streamthen running on our right, and continuing thus for three kilomètresfarther (11 miles from Pau), when it issues from the Grotto duNéez--only a few yards from the road. From this grotto a great part ofthe torrent is diverted, being utilised to supply Pau with its pure andsparkling fluid. Half-an-hour after leaving Rebénac we passed throughthe village of Sévignac, (123/4 miles), and had a splendid view of theVal d'Ossau from the bridge which overlooks Arudy, and which isoverlooked in turn by a fine and well-situated house. 

We had barely time to appreciate the curious rocks which abound nearArudy, when we passed the road leading off through that town to Oloron, and came in sight of a merry group of washerwomen, whose enormousumbrellas--being unnecessary, since it was perfectly fine--were open ina row, and with their shades of magenta, green, and blue, withoutmentioning sundry patches of other shades, made a wonderful contrast tothe green bushes fringing the river. 

At 9. 40 we entered Louvie Juzon (16 miles), with its old church andcurious belfry-tower, and its "mairie" turned into a school--for thenonce at least; and passing the latter, we crossed the fine bridge overthe Gave d'Ossau, on the other side of which the Oloron road leads offthrough Izeste to the right, and the courtyard of the Hôtel desPyrénées bids us enter and rest. 

How gladly the occupants of the diligences descend, for the short whileadjudged sufficient, at this customary half-way house, who butthemselves can tell? Even we were glad to let the horses have an hour'srest, and to enjoy meanwhile some good hot coffee and chicken. The innitself was certainly not a paradise; but there were some lovely fieldsbehind it, and in front, across the road, there was an old table and anolder seat among the trees, down by the swift-flowing river. A charmingplace for moralising indeed! None of us, however, were much in thestyle of the "melancholy Jacques, " or, with our eyes on some vigorousfisherman higher up the river, we might have begun:

 "And yet it irks us, these bright speckled trout, Being native swimmers in this river, should From their own limpid pools, by gay, false flies Be cruelly decoyed. "

Instead of this, however, we returned to the inn, where we saw a worthycount endeavouring to clean a huge meerschaum pipe that he handled withevident fondness, and finding our carriage ready--it being then nearlyeleven o'clock--we continued our journey. 

It was now that the real Val d'Ossau commenced, and though the drive sofar had been much enjoyed, we soon passed into scenery both more fineand more wild. One kilomètre from Louvie on the left stands the ancientChâteau de Géloz (161/2 miles) on a small hill, and on another hillbeside it--of corresponding size--stands a church. The view here, withthe village of Castets behind, the beautiful river below, and thewooded slopes and massive rocks above, was especially charming. 

With many lovely fields on either side of us we drove at a smart pacetowards Bielle (181/4 miles), and at a quarter-past eleven entered thetown, which in bygone days was the capital of Ossau. Here thecelebrated Coffre d'Ossau, that contained archives dating from the year1227, was kept; and it is a noteworthy fact that the presence of themayors of three towns, besides that of the President of the ValleyCouncil, was necessary before this "strong box" could be opened. 

There are many old houses and objects of interest, including somemosaics, to be seen in the town, and among other things that attractedour attention was a large board, painted in the most modern style, witha pair of scissors at one side and an open razor at the other, and the"welcome" information--"Ici on rase" underneath. 

The village of Bilhères, situated above Bielle on the slopes of thehill, is not without interest on account of the richness of its coppermines, while during the dry season a track leads from it over the Colde Marie Blanque to the Vallée d'Aspe. 

As we continued our journey the frequent puffs of dust alone gave usany trouble, but they caused us at times to screen our eyes and missthe view. The valley, now at its widest, with pastures high up on thehills seemingly as fertile as those beside the river, all bright withflowers or studded with well-leaved trees, spoke of peace andprosperity. It would have been hard indeed to imagine a huge andferocious bear appearing among such cultivation, although the valleystill retains its ancient name, signifying that it was once the resortof these animals; but a "dancing bear" is the only specimen of the raceseen about there now. 

At half-past eleven we passed through the village of Bélesten (20miles), and a little beyond, when once more among the fields, came inview of a curious sight. Among the many fields, variously cultivated, was a square one dotted over with small manure heaps in rows. On thetop of several of the heaps, native aprons (belonging, we presumed, togirls at work in the vicinity) were neatly placed. Was this a newfashion of rearing mushrooms, or a native invention for the propagationof aprons? No one could say, so we have given it up!

Further on we noticed a lovely little village among the trees on thehillside to the left; our coachman called it Louvie la Haute, and wehave heard no other name, as it is too insignificant to be mentioned ina guide-book. 

One peculiarity of this valley seemed to be the wearing of frilledgaiters or leggings by the women. They seem to supply the place ofstockings and shoes, being visible from just below the knee, anddescending well over the instep, so as to hide everything but the toes. 

It must have been market-day at Laruns (233/4 miles), for when wearrived there at noon the streets were so full of carts and people thatit was a matter of difficulty to get past. If the extra bustle hadbetokened one of the fêtes, of which the chief is held on August 15thannually, we should have been far from disposed to grumble, since it isat these Laruns fêtes alone now that the old picturesque Ossaloiscostumes can be seen. M. Doré has depicted a few natives in thesecostumes at their devotions in the ancient church that stood beside theroute; but no one is likely to do so again, as the edifice--when wepassed it--was falling into ruins and looked in a deplorable condition, the finely-sculptured doorway being partly hidden by the fallen débris. But not only the church, but more or less the whole village, seemed ina tumble-down condition, and this appeared to us especially strange, aseverywhere around prosperity seemed to reign; and further, since therailway from Pau, which was to be opened this year, appeared nearlycompleted, the fact of Laruns being the terminus at this end of thevalley ought to render it yet more prosperous. 

Just inside the village we crossed the bridge over the almost dry bedof the Arricuzé (beyond which the old road to Eaux Chaudes branches offto the right), and then traversing the Gave d'Ossau, we continued underthe trees along the ancient route to Eaux Bonnes. But not for manyminutes, for, where the old road which leads to the Bear Grotto alsobegins to ascend, the new route strikes up to the right, and continueswith an easy gradient to the point where it forks (24 miles), thecontinuation to the right leading to Eaux Chaudes, and the branch tothe left--which we followed--to Eaux Bonnes. 

[Illustration]

No pains have been spared to render the remainder of the journeyattractive to either the rider or the pedestrian, and to us the driveup the broad zigzags, planted with plane trees, silver beech, ash, polonia, aspen, arbutus, burberis, and innumerable other handsome treesand shrubs, was a pleasant one indeed. One rocky bit on the right ofthe way, completely overhung with beautiful ivy, seemed to usespecially picturesque. Admiring thus all the poetic touches in form orcolouring as we passed, we suddenly, and almost without warning, foundourselves entering Eaux Bonnes (271/2 miles), and but a very fewmoments more sufficed for our conveyance to the excellent Hôtel deFrance, where the hostess was ready to receive us. 

It would, indeed, be hard to find a more charmingly compact little townthan Eaux Bonnes, anywhere: a perfect little miniature, very happilysituated and beautifully clean and neat. What more could an invaliddesire? Why, the very beauty of the surroundings ought to actperceptibly on the constitution, and when baths and perpetual tumblersof the rotten-egg fluid are indulged in besides, a perfect cure_must_ be guaranteed. 

It requires but few words to describe the shape and appearance of theplace, but to convey an _accurate_ idea to the reader is, we areafraid, a very difficult matter. The town is triangular inshape--almost an isosceles triangle, in fact--and this triangle isformed by the shape of the gorge, whose rocky, tree-clothed sidesoverlook it. Fine rows of hotels and restaurants, and otherbuildings--mostly let as furnished apartments--form the outer edge ofthe triangle. A good road separates these from the Jardin Darralde, which is likewise triangular, and planted with trees and shrubs in themost agreeable manner, both for neatness and shade. In the centre isthe band-stand, and a bed of roses surrounds it. This is a generaldescription, but it does not speak of beauty, and we thought that EauxBonnes was undoubtedly a beautiful place. 

Suppose a triangular slice were cut out of Hyde Park, combining someleafy trees and a pleasant flower-bed with a band-stand added, andhotels and restaurants were erected around it; then, that it weretransported to a narrow part of the Llanberis Pass under the very frownof Snowdon; and snow should fall on the surrounding summits; andmagnificent beech groves and cascades appear down the wild slopesbelow, some idea of what Eaux Bonnes is like might be gained; but eventhen it would be little more than an idea. 

It certainly has not the grandeur of Cauterets, the freedom of St. Sauveur, or the expansive loveliness of Luchon. It is hemmed in by thesurrounding heights, of which, at the head of the Sourde (or Soude)valley (in which it lies) the magnificent Pic de Ger is mostconspicuous, and doubtless this renders it a "warm retreat" in summer;but to see it as we saw it, with the sun shining on the rain-spangledleaves of the trees in the Jardin Darralde, on the lighter green of thebeeches above, and glinting through the foam of the "Valentin"cascades; with no invalids, no gallant French horsemen, nogaily-dressed women, but only a few peasants dotted here and there, atwork, to give life to the scene--to see it, in short, as it is inspring, can only give rise to pleasant feelings, which would mellowinto pleasanter and more appreciative memories!

The amount of rain we had during our stay was only sufficient to coolthe heated atmosphere and lay the dust; but Eaux Bonnes has rather awatery reputation, and many are the times that the visitors becomevictims to a shower, returning from their "constitutional" or theirvisit to the baths. 

When we arrived the hotel had only been open a very short time, as the"season" was far from beginning, and the only other occupants, asvisitors, were a rather stout man and a fat, jovial-visaged priest. Wediscovered them in the billiard-room as the priest was just in thethroes of a most simple cannon, and our entrance appeared to damage hisplay, while his face rather lengthened, as though he felt ashamed athaving been surprised at a worldly game. This may have been our fancy, as he was certainly the first R. C. Priest we had seen with a cue in hishand; perhaps, however, he will not be the last. 

After this we lunched, and after that, left the hotel and walked up themain road towards the Sourde Gorge, passing a choice marble shop, thebathing establishment, the church, and the town-hall. Beyond thislast-named building the gorge narrows and extends to the base of thePic de Ger (8571 ft. ). Leaving this on our right, we followed thePromenade de l'Imperatrice, that ascends above the town-hall, till thepath leading to the little kiosque--built on the summit of a rockyeminence called the "Butte du Trésor"--branched off to the right. 

The view from the little pavilion is indeed a gratifying one, forthough not extended, it is so entirely choice and picturesque; whilethe name of the eminence on which it stands, and from which some of thehealing springs are said to rise, is decidedly appropriate, since therecan be no doubt that they have proved a "mine of wealth" to several, although, as M. Taine remarks, it is "grotesque that a little hot watershould have caused the introduction of civilised cooking in its verycauldrons. "

Descending from the kiosque, we continued along the Route del'Imperatrice, over which the beeches and other trees made a pleasantshade. This is a special walk for invalids, as it is constructed inzigzags of the easiest gradient, and while being both sheltered fromwest winds and open to the sun, it also commands at various points agood view of the River Valentin, the lower or Discoo Cascade, and thebridge which spans it; as well as the Route Thermale to Argelès, whichfollows the right bank of the river. 

[Illustration: CASCADE DU VALENTIN. ]

Most of the numerous cascades in the neighbourhood--thanks to theengineering of the "Empress's Walk" and the road to Argelès--are ineasy walking distance for most people, even invalids; those usuallyvisited being the Cascade des Eaux Bonnes, de Discoo, du Gros-Hêtre anddu Serpent; the Cascade de Larsessec (33/4 miles) requires some fatigueto reach. 

The road leading from the river back to the Hôtel de France passesbetween two walls of rock against which the houses are built. Thispassage has been made by blasting the solid rock, and it seemed thatthe work had been one of no small difficulty. 

All great excursions were denied us, as neither the Pic de Ger nor thefatiguing Pic de Gabizos were sufficiently free from snow; while theroad to Argelès still remained broken down in three places, and itseemed as though July would disappear ere the terrible gaps made by theavalanches could be built up anew. 

We started for Eaux Chaudes in the cool of the afternoon, anticipatinga pleasant drive, and were very far from being disappointed. Afterretraversing the road to the branching point above Laruns--near whichthe fields and banks were rich in gentians, violets, scabii, _linariae_, and columbines--we seemed suddenly to plunge into theGorge de Hourat. There can be little doubt that there is no truerspecimen of a gorge in the Pyrenees than this. The piled-up cragsovergrown with heather, and the splendid pastures above on thehill-tops, seen in the Cauterets Gorge, were missing; so, too, thevaried tints and softer landscape bits of the St. Sauveur defile wereabsent; but here the masses of rock rose straight up on either side, attimes seemingly ambitious to hide their summits in the clouds; whilethe roar of the torrent issuing from the Hourat (or Trou, _i. E. _hole) above which the road passes, only served to heighten the grandeffect of the scene. 

Just after the narrowest part is passed, a small chapel may be noticedhigh above the river on the right. It marks the scene of a frightfulaccident. The old road, which was in use till 1849, passed by the spot, and a heavily-laden diligence full of passengers overturned--throughthe horses taking fright, it is said--and the whole complement weredashed over the rocks into the torrent below. The chapel has since beenerected, but though the old road still exists, and, in fact, joins thenew one at the Pont Crabé--which beautiful place is admirably depictedin the sketch--there is little danger of such an accident occurringagain. 

A little further on--viz. About two miles from Eaux Chaudes--we noticedbelow us as charming a subject as any painter could wish for. A smallplot of velvet-like green-sward beside the rushing river; some trees, leafy almost to extravagance, gracefully arched above; a few sheepdescending a narrow track on the hillside; and above all, the immenserocky heights, around the base of which beeches and other treesluxuriantly grew, and many beautiful flowers bloomed; and, thusgarlanded at their base, their stern and massive summits looked granderstill, and completed such a picture of majestic beauty as no lover ofnature could fail to enthusiastically admire. 

One mile further there is another fine sight, though not of thecomprehensive beauty of that just mentioned. This one doubtless is notworth seeing in mid-summer, when the sun has dried up the mountainstreams, but when _we_ passed that way we could see from the verysummit of the hill--above which the pointed Pic de Laruns reared itscrest--a mass of foam issuing from between two rocks, no punymeandering streamlet, but a strong torrent, which, as it dashed fromrock to rock, gathered strength and velocity till it rushed amid acloud of spray into the river below. 

[Illustration: CRABÉ BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE. ]

We saw one or two gentlemen--evidently early visitors likeourselves--anxiously whipping the river for fish, but they caughtnothing; in fact, they told us afterwards that it was done with hardlyany hopes of catching, since the "professional"--save the name--elementcame out with rods and nets, so that if the rods didn't answer theycould net the pools instead. It seemed to us a remarkably good thingthat "professionals" can't do the same in England!

There is another lovely scene not half a mile away from the town, wherea path leads from the road to the riverside. There is a plot ofgreen-sward here, and a grove of trees; and the river passes under abridge, that vibrates with the force of the torrent surging against itsrocky base. The path over the bridge leads through the leafy glades onthe heights that overlook the river, and the town may be regained bycrossing another bridge higher up. 

Soon after, we were entering Eaux Chaudes (271/2 miles), and havingpassed the Hôtel de France on the left, and the gardens and bathingestablishment on the right, we drove up to the Hôtel Baudot and werecourteously received by Madame. 

It appeared that we had arrived a day too late, as the marriage ofMadame's niece with the hotel _chef_ had been celebrated the daybefore, and wonderful festivities had taken place in their honour;while the guests in the hotel (fortunately not more than eight innumber) had been regaled with champagne and many choice dishes. 

While waiting for dinner we strolled about on the terrace, opening outof the dining-room and overlooking the river. It did not need the boxesof bright flowers that lined the terrace sides to entice us there, butthey certainly added to the delightful picture of river and trees; andas one face reminds us of another, so this scene carried our memoryback to another, but a more lovely one even, because the beauty of thetrees was heightened by large bushes of azaleas--bright withvarious-coloured blooms--growing between. But beauty and comfort do notalways go together, and for calm enjoyment this Pyrenean scene had thepreference; for the other was in the heart of Japan, at the tinyvillage of Sakurazawa, and we gazed on the picture through the open_shoji_, [Footnote: Sliding screens, being frames of wood pastedover with paper, acting as doors and windows. ] lying on the neat buthard--very hard--mats, that were our tables, chairs, and beds in one;which our host's assurance, that the Mikado himself had slept upon themthe year previous, didn't make any softer. The announcement of dinnercut short further musings, and we took our places at the table, profusely adorned with evidences of the previous day's ceremony. 

At a table-d'hôte of eight or ten people conversation is as a rule easyand general. It requires a so-called "typical Englishman" to keephimself within himself, in a shroud of pride and reserve, and the"typical Englishman" is, thank goodness, nearly out of date. We werevery anxious to learn about the plateau above Gabas. Was this plateaureally worth seeing; and if so, when was it best to start? Everybodywas ready to give their version of the trip, but Mr. And Mrs. Tubbins(if we recollect rightly) seemed the most anxious to speak. Mrs. T. Wassimply a combination of bolsters which shook with the exertion ofspeech, while poor Mr. T. , a meek, thin, haggard-looking man--and nowonder--seemed to be ready to put in a word if required, but looked inmomentary terror of getting a snub instead. 

This look was not an unnecessary one; for Mrs. T. , with all her anxietyto give information, did not get on very fast, and made many mistakesin names, &c. , which her worse-half tried to rectify, with the resultthat she turned on him with "Frank, I wish you wouldn't interrupt; youare quite wrong, you know!"

However, from the general company we managed to gather a good deal ofinformation, which, as a cloudy day spoilt our own trip thither on themorrow, it may be expedient to repeat. Gabas is only a hamlet of a fewhouses, and is in itself uninteresting. Situated five miles from EauxChaudes, it is reached by a good carriage road, which, crossing thePont d'Enfer, continues along the left bank of the river the rest ofthe way, the views being chiefly of granite summits and thick pineforests. But though Gabas makes an excellent resting-place orstarting-point for several excursions, no one stays there for any otherreason, and tourists from Eaux Chaudes usually pass it on the way tothe Plateau des Bious-Artigues or to Panticosa. The road forks atGabas, and becomes no longer anything but a bridle path, the rightbranch leading to the plateau, the other passing by the Broussettevalley, across the Spanish frontier, to Panticosa. The plateau isreached in one hour and a half, not without exertion, and the view overthe Pic du Midi d'Ossau is considered wonderfully fine. Several of ourinformants, however, had chosen bad days, and after all their labour, found a thick mist over everything that was worth seeing. Among theseMrs. Tubbins had figured, and her goodman had suffered in consequence. "The idea, " she said, "of bringing me all this way, and at my time oflife too, simply to see a mist, as if I hadn't seen plenty of them athome!" Of course she had come of her own accord, and the meek andinjured one had followed as a matter of course. 

[Illustration: THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES. ]

The journey from Gabas to Panticosa requires a good twelve hours, andgenerally more; consequently an early start is advisable. It is afavourite way of entering Spain, and much more practicable than theroute from Cauterets to the same spot. 

Of Eaux Chaudes itself there is but little to say, for with theexception of the hotels, the bathing establishment, and a few shops, there is nothing to form a town. Like Eaux Bonnes it is shut in by themountains on either side, but it is more oblong in shape, with twoparallel streets. The Promenade du Henri IV. , which leads southwardsfrom the Hôtel Baudot along the side of the river, is a cool andpleasant walk, especially of an evening. 

Various opinions exist as to which place is most suitable for aresidence, the "Bonnes" or the "Chaudes. " In spring probably theformer, but the latter certainly in summer; for not only is it freefrom the bustling, gaily-dressed crowd which throngs its rival, butthere is a fresh breeze that blows up the valley which renders italways cool and pleasant; while the scenery is as fine as the mostfastidious could wish for. 

The Col de Gourzy and the lofty Pic of the same name tower above EauxChaudes, and a route to Eaux Bonnes--which to good pedestrians is wellworth the exertion--passes over the former. The path strikes off fromthe Gabas road to the left, while yet in the town, and passes by theMinvieille "buvette. " For the first half-hour the route is the same asthat to the Eaux Chaudes grotto; this is an excursion, of two hoursthere and back, that is in great favour with tourists. Where the pathforks, the one to the grotto is left on the right, and after somefatiguing work the Plateau de Gourzy is reached, from which the view ona fine day is splendid. The track then leads through beech glades andbox thickets to the "Fontaine de Lagas" (near which a wild andbeautiful valley branches off to the right), and finally joins thePromenade Jacqueminot at Eaux Bonnes. Horses may be taken the wholedistance, but it is easier for them--if tourists choose thishighly-recommended route--when the start is made from Eaux Bonnes. 

It rained severely early on the morning of our departure, but later, cleared up into a lovely day, enabling us to start at 8. 30. The riverand the cascades were full, and the sun glinting on the wet leaves gavea fairy-like appearance to this magnificent gorge. As we looked backfrom the cascade, which seemed to tumble from the summit of the Pic deLaruns, the clouds gradually rising over the head of the valleydisclosed a huge snow mountain [Footnote: The "cocher" called it thePic d'Estremère, but we had no confirmation of this] to view, thatappeared to form an impassable barrier 'twixt France and Spain. 

When we reached Laruns we had a fine view of its pointed peak, andthrough the morning haze the lofty Pic de Ger over Eaux Bonnes lookedimposing indeed. Travelling we found very pleasant. There was no dust, the air was cool, the roads just soft enough for comfort, and the wholevalley refreshed with the morning's rain. The people in the fieldsworked with greater energy, and the bright scarlet hoods of thedamsels, many of whom followed the plough, gave a pleasant colouring toan animated scene. We passed several flocks of geese, apparentlyunwilling to proceed at as rapid a pace as the good woman--with herfrilled gaiters--who was in charge of them wished; but with thoseexceptions we hardly met anybody or anything on the road till we hadpassed Louvie. 

What we then met were a couple of carts filled with coal, and as wenever recollected having seen any such peculiar teams as they weredrawn by, we concluded they were "Ossalois, " and "peculiar" to thevalley. There were eight animals to each cart, four bulls and fourhorses. The bulls were harnessed in pairs (as in a four-in-hand coach), and acted as wheelers, while the horses, acting as leaders, wereharnessed in line, one in front of another. Curious as this arrangementseemed, they made good progress with a very heavy load!

[Illustration: THE PIC DE GER. ]

At Sévignac a splendid Guelder rose-tree grew in a small garden over amill stream, and a very ancient dame very willingly sold us someclusters which were peculiarly fine; in another garden a very fine bushof white _cistus_ was completely covered with blooms. Thehedgerows, too, were bright with flowers; the wild Guelder roses andmedlars [Footnote: The "makilahs, " or slicks peculiar to the Basquepeople, are made from the wild medlar. They are very heavy, tipped withiron, and unpleasant to carry. ] preponderating, but elder bushes werealso plentiful, and covered with blossoms. 

At Rébenac we stopped at the Hôtel du Périgord for coffee and a fifteenminutes' rest, the horses not requiring any more, as the day was socool. While drinking the "welcome liquid" we watched an old woman outof the window, spinning. Her distaff was apparently very old and dirty, and as she span she seemed to be crooning some ancient ditty toherself, thinking, maybe, of her children and grandchildren, or even ofthe days when she was herself a child. 

We started again when the quarter of an hour was up, and bowled alongtowards Gan, meeting on the way several natives (men) with their hairin long pigtails, like Chinamen; they looked otherwise decidedly_Béarnais_, but their appearance was peculiar, to say the least ofit. Beyond Gan we passed into full view of the lovely Coteaux, whichafford such pleasant rides and drives from Pau, and as we graduallyneared the town, the heat seemed to intensify to anything but apleasurable degree. 

Four hours forty minutes after starting we were once more under theroof of Maison Colbert, with such a luncheon before us as fullyjustified the hospitable repute that it has always borne. 

But Pau was far too hot for us to remain for more than a few days, although the heat was unusually great for that time of the year, and wewere very glad when once more on our journey towards the pleasantbreezes and blue waters of the Biscay. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

BIARRITZ. 

A warm ride--Bayonne--A "Noah's ark" landscape--Amusements--Bathing--Shells--Cavillers--A canine feat--The pier and rocks--Arestless sea--"The Three Cormorants"--Dragon's-mouth Rock--To thelighthouse--Maiden-hair ferns--Mrs. Blunt's adventure--The drive roundthe lakes--_Osmunda regalis_ ferns--The pine-woods near thebar--St. Etienne and the Guards' cemetery--Croix de Mouguère--Cambo andthe Pas de Roland--Anemones--A fat couple--A French scholar--Hendaye--Fuenterabia--A quaint old-world town--The Bidassoa--Pasages--San Sebastien--The Citadol and graves--The "SilentSisters"--Raised prices--Parasols and spectacles. 

The journey to Biarritz began comfortably enough, but after the firstfew miles the heat became very oppressive, and though we had norepetition of our Montrejeau experience at starting, we feltnevertheless almost as warm as if we had. 

Our arrival at Bayonne was a great relief, for the sun had partiallyretired, and as we crossed in turn the Adour and the Nive, a scent ofthe "briny" was borne into our omnibus with revivifying effect. Passingup one of the narrow old streets to execute a few commissions, weregained the "Place, " crossed the drawbridge, and entered the lovelyavenues, from which, beyond the "fosse, " the twin towers of thebeautiful cathedral come into view. On the right is the station of the"steam tram-line, " and some hundred yards beyond it the road toBiarritz curves in the same direction. 

This road cannot be called beautiful! The never-ending line of poplarsalong each side turn the landscape into that Noah's ark style whicheven the soul that could be "contented with a tulip or lily" wouldhardly admire. Approaching Biarritz, however, the handsome villas andtheir gardens fully deserve the epithet which cannot in justice beapplied to the road. They are indeed beautiful; and to pass them evenin winter, with the camellia trees laden with blossoms and the rosesscenting the air, makes comparison with our London gardens very odiousindeed!

Under the small-gauge railway-bridge, and past the new "English Club, "we soon entered the town, [Footnote: The distance between Bayonne andBiarritz is 5 miles. ] and driving down the Rue Mazagran into the PlaceSainte Eugenie, drew up at the familiar Hôtel de Paris, in time fordinner. 

Although Biarritz is in the department of the Basses-Pyrénées, it is sofar away from the mountains that many might consider its introductioninto this volume as questionable; we do not therefore intend to say asmuch as could be said about it. At the same time, it is so greatlyrecommended by doctors as a beneficial spot for a final "brace up"before returning to England, after a mountain trip, and is, besides, such a favourite winter residence, that we consider it would be more"questionable" to omit it. 

Unlike Pau, its amusements are not of a very varied character. Inwinter, lawn-tennis and balls are the chief, and concerts occurgenerally weekly or bi-weekly. As spring asserts herself, bathingcommences and picnics become the fashion; and in the early summer--aslong as the English remain--tennis and bathing go almost hand-in-hand. 

The tennis-ground--which is only a short distance from the Englishchurch of St. Andrew's--is well laid out and commodious, possessing anexcellent reading room for members' use, as well. Of bathingestablishments there are three; the large building in the Moorish styleon the Plage, the less pretentious but more picturesque one in the PortVieux, and the least pretentious and least protected one, under the"falaises" [Footnote: Blue chalk cliffs. ] beyond. 

The first and last are only used in the height of summer; that in thePort Vieux--from its sheltered position--opens its box-doors as soon aswinter really gives place to spring. The scene, when the tide is highon a morning in June, is often an exceedingly pretty one, for to thepristine picturesqueness of the surroundings is added those touches ofhuman nature enjoying itself, which, if it doesn't "make us kin, " goesa long way towards it. 

The "Port Vieux" is triangular in shape, with the apex inland, alongthe sides of which the boxes are erected, reaching to the water's edgeat high tide. In the middle lies an expanse of deep sand, and the bluewaters roll in between the rocks and gently break on a shingly beach, where the tiniest shells and pebbles mingle to make the one drop ofbitterness in the bather's cup. 

When the sandy expanse is crowded with merry children, the roads andseats above filled with spectators, and the water with members of bothsexes in varied costumes and "headgears"--not forgetting the boatman inthe tiny skiff who is here, there, and everywhere in case he isneeded--the scene is a very pleasant one to look upon. Of course thereare always some narrow-minded individuals to find fault, some "maiden"aunts "with spinster written on their brows, " who will put up theirgold-rimmed glasses with that peculiar sniff that invariably prefacessome _extra sweet_ remarks, such as, "Dear me, how wicked! Men andwomen bathing together in that barefaced manner; and . .. I do believethere's that forward Miss Dimplechin actually taking hold of CaptainSmith's hand, and he a married man too! Thank goodness, I never didsuch a thing--never!" [Footnote: Did she ever have the chance?]

Above the Port Vieux, on the left, stands Cape Atalaya, with the ruinsof an ancient tower, and a flagstaff on its summit. A road leads roundits base, passing between a circular mound overlooking the "oldharbour, " and the yard where the concrete blocks are fashioned for thestrengthening of the pier. 

There are seats on this mound, whence people can watch the bathing; andwe often saw a remarkable feat performed from it as well. A race ofwonderful water-dogs--said to be a cross between the Newfoundland andthe French poodle--is bred at St. Jean de Luz, eight miles fromBiarritz. One of their uses is to drive the fish into the nets, and forthis purpose one is taken in every boat that puts to sea. The method isextremely simple. As soon as the net surrounds a shoal, the dog is putin the centre, and by beating the water with his paws he effectuallydrives the finny creatures into the meshes. It was one of this samespecies of dogs that attracted so much attention at the Port Vieux byleaping after a stick from the mound--a distance of some fiftyfeet--into the sea. He would do it as often as his master would lethim, and appeared to enjoy it immensely, though he always reached thewater before the stick, and had then to turn round and hunt for it. 

The road, after skirting one side of the yard, crosses the trackwaythat runs down the pier and doubles up the other side, through thetunnel and past the Port aux Pêcheurs, into the Place Ste. Eugénie;whence, continuing by the base of the Hôtel d'Angleterre and thecasino, it extends to the bathing establishment on the Plage. In theother direction it rounds the Port Vieux, and leads under the cliffs tothe other resort of summer bathers; consequently, it might beappropriately termed the "Chemin des Bains. "

The pier is a very favourite resort, and many a fierce fight with thewaves is enacted at its extremity, in which, alas! the sea has alwaysproved the stronger. As a rule, visitors are not permitted to pass the"Cucurlon" rock, on which the Virgin's statue stands; but if theweather is very fine, the gate is opened to admit of any who are sominded going to the end. On a wild day, with a high wind blowinginland, the "battle of the waves" is a fine sight, especially from theplatform erected below the flagstaff on Cape Atalaya. Thence the fullbeauty of the huge billows, dashing into clouds of spray against thepier, and, unallayed, pursuing their course with relentless energy tillthey boom amid the hollow caverns of the hill, may be admired andwondered at. 

There are two rocks which (as one looks seaward) rise up to the left ofthe pier, and serve to break in some measure the force of the waves. The larger of these in calm weather is frequented by cormorants, andhas gained the name of "Cormorant Rock. " There were three of thesebirds on it one very rough day, and we saw a scene enacted which--withdue apologies to the late Rev. Charles Kingsley for thus adapting hispathetic verses--we have commemorated in the following lines, under thetitle of

"THE THREE CORMORANTS. "

 Three cormorant dandies were perch'd on a rock, Were perch'd on a rock as the waves dash'd high; Each thought himself equal to any black cock, And proudly determined the sea to defy. For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, And they swallow their prey with the utmost despatch, Without all the trouble of boning!

 Three cormorant damsels were waiting at home, Were waiting at home for the dandies so dear. "Oh, say! are they fishing where fierce billows foam?" And the damsels sat chattering their bills with fear! For cormorant maidens _can fish_ and _can catch_, And each one considered she'd made a good match. And now for her dandy was moaning. 

 Three cormorant dandies were washed off the rock, Were washed off the rock by a powerful wave; And, quite unprepared for the terrible shock, They sank in the depths of a watery grave. For cormorants fish, and cormorants catch, But if waves dash high they should use despatch, Or their loved ones will always be groaning!

There are some curious rocks in front of the new harbour, notably the"Dragon's-mouth Rock, " through which on a rough day the watercontinuously pours; more to the right, between this and the "Plage, " isa curious group known as the "Chinaougue. " [Footnote: Have never foundany one able to account for this title, which is more barbaric thanpronounceable. ] A bridge communicates with the largest, on which"petticoat daffodils" grow, and the couples that may occasionally beseen going over there _doubtless_ do so to gather these. Beyondthe Port Vieux and underneath the Villa Belzar other curious formationsmay be seen, to which an iron gate at the head of a few damaged stepsgives access. 

At Biarritz itself there is really nothing to be seen except the sea. And yet this sea is so beautiful in its varied moods, that a lover ofnature can watch it day after day for any reasonable period, without afeeling of _ennui_ or a wish for anything more lovely!

[Illustration: THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ. ]

There are many pleasant walks and drives around, but most of themrequire a whole day, and are more preferable as a drive than as a walk. The shortest is to the lighthouse and back, and this is only a veryeasy promenade, taking about an hour; so we will deal with it first, leaving the longer ones to await their turn. 

We started one afternoon when the sky was cloudless and the coastlinevery clear, hoping to obtain a good view of the Spanish coast, and afew specimens of maiden-hair fern, if fortune were favourable. Wetraversed half the town, when Mrs. Blunt suddenly came to a haltopposite the Hôtel de France, and pointed to a three-wheeled vehicle ofthe bath-chair type, to which a weird and very ancient-looking steedwas attached. "I think, " said she, "that would be more comfortable forme than walking; please inquire if it is on hire. " So we applied to afat dame, who was busily knitting hard by, and having arranged terms, Mrs. Blunt got in and we continued our way. 

Down past the bank and at an easy pace to what was once the VillaEugénie, [Footnote: This building, where Emperor and Empress lived atdifferent times, now belongs to a company under the title of the"Palais Biarritz, " and is employed as a casino and restaurant. "Sictransit gloria imperatorum. "] and continuing up the hill at the samespeed, we gradually drew near the lighthouse, and when once the VillaNoailles was left behind and the level road reached again, we were soonat our destination. [Footnote: At low tide there is a way to thelighthouse along the beach in front of the Palais Biarritz, and up asteep path over the rocks. The other is much the better way, however, at all times. ] The view of the coast to St. Jean de Luz, San Sebastien, and almost to Santander, was peculiarly good, as well as that on theother side in the direction of Bayonne; and while Mrs. Blunt remainedin contemplation from her vehicle, we descended to view the rocks andcaves below. 

As a rule it is unwise to disclose where botanical treasures grow, asthey generally become extinct soon afterwards, from excess ofadmiration on the part of collectors; but the maiden-hair ferns, forwhich the lighthouse rocks are known, can take very fair care ofthemselves, as they grow in such awkward positions--we might saydangerous--that only a few real enthusiasts, or an anxious collectorwith a _steady head_, are likely to venture to attack theirstrongholds. 

[Illustration: VILLA EUGÉNIE. ]

We saw many specimens in the interstices of the rocks surrounding amoss-grown pool, but they were quite unapproachable. One clump above wedid manage to reach and bear away a few roots of, in triumph; but atone time there was only two inches of stone for the foot to rest on, with sheer rocks below; and consequently, without a rope, theexperiment would hardly be worth repetition. However, without mishap westarted on our return journey, and all went smoothly till the VillaNoailles was again reached; but at this point we suddenly noticed thatMrs. Blunt was rapidly out-distancing us. Whether the ancient steeddreamt of its former youth and activity, and "grew young once more, " orwhether its long rest had made it anxious to reach its stable, we knownot; but the unpleasant reality was forced upon us, that it was rapidlybearing Mrs. Blunt away. Miss Blunt had been walking near the vehicle, Mr. Sydney and rather behind; but as Miss Blunt started to run, werapidly followed, and overtook the steed, which, having by that timepulled up at the bottom of the hill, appeared to be anxious to turnround and have a look at Mrs. Blunt. As it neighed at the same time, perhaps it was asking, "Who's my driver?" but this was mere conjectureon our part, although we were not sorry to restore the animal to thefat old lady--still knitting--and escort Mrs. Blunt back to the hotel, none the worse for her little adventure!

[Illustration: SCENE I. --BEFORE THE START. ]

[Illustration: SCENE 2. --THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE. ]

[Illustration: SCENE 3. --WHO'S MY DRIVER?]

The favourite of the short drives is known as the "Tour des Lacs. " Itembraces the prettiest country in the vicinity, and the whole distanceis about six miles. We found it most pleasant to start, after lunch, from the Place de la Mairie, turning up the Rue Gambetta past themarket and on to the "Falaises, " where the sea-breeze blows fresh andfree. Keeping to the right where the road forks, the "abattoir" wassoon left behind and the Villa Marbella reached; we then curved round"Lac Chabiague, " and ascending slightly between fields gay with the"fleur des frontières" [Footnote: A lovely blue flower, something likea gentian. ] and the wild daphne, we dipped again slightly to the pointwhere the road to St. Jean de Luz forks to the right. Bearing to theleft between hedges overgrown with _sarsaparilla_, and entering ashady lane, a few minutes sufficed for us to reach the "Bois deBoulogne, " where the road skirts the Lake Mouriscot, and passes besidemany splendid clumps of the _Osmunda regalis_ fern. The lake isvery deep and full of fish; but bathing is certainly not advisable, asthere is a great quantity of reeds and weeds all round the water'sedge. 

Leaving the pleasant woods, we emerged on to the Route Imperiale--thedirect road from the Negresse station (on the main line to Spain) toBiarritz--and following it as far as the metals, we turned to the leftup the Irun-Bayonne route. This, however, was not our road for long, aswe took the first turning on the left-hand side up a pretty lane, whichbrought Lake Marion into full view. The other end of the lane joins the"Route Imperiale" again; which, leading in turn past the cemetery, theparish church, and the terminus of the "steam tram-line, " enters thetown near the International Bank. 

It will be noticed that there are several ways of reaching Bayonne. Thecheapest and most expeditious, for marketing or other businesspurposes, is by the narrow-gauge railway, with its curious doublecarriages, one above the other. By driving the two miles to theNegresse station, and catching the express from Spain, is another way, but one not recommended to anybody but travellers [Footnote: Travellersfor the Pau line have to change at Bayonne, consequently it is simplerfor them to drive the five miles from Biarritz direct to Bayonne, thandrive two to the Negresse station, with the necessity of changing tenminutes after entering the train. ] going to stations on the linebetween Bayonne and Paris. Of the three routes for driving we havealready mentioned the most frequented one--at the commencement of thechapter; from the Negresse station by the Bayonne-Irun road is another;and the last and prettiest passes behind the Villa Eugénie almost tothe lighthouse, but there branches off to the right past the Chambred'Amour inn, to the pine-woods near La Barre, and thence into Bayonne!This drive may be prolonged in two directions: firstly, by crossing theNive and the Adour to the Guards' cemetery (where those who fell in thesortie from Bayonne 1813-14, are buried) at St. Etienne; and secondly, by following the bank of the river for some distance (past the market), and turning up into the country by way of St. Pierre to the Croix deMouguère. This latter makes a splendid picnic, and the locality is arich hunting-ground for entomologists. 

There are four other excursions that we must not omit to mention, viz. , Cambo and the Pas de Roland, St. Jean de Luz, Fuenterabia, and SanSebastien. All of these, with the exception of the first, can bereached by _rail_, and as far as St. Jean de Luz the _road_from Biarritz [Footnote: There is a more direct route to Cambo fromBayonne. ] is common to all; so that to save space we will only mentionit on our way to Cambo. 

Starting at an early hour with plenty of provisions, we bowled down tothe Negresse station, crossed the line, and ascended the hill aboveLake Mouriscot, at the top of which Bidart--the first of the Basquevillages--comes into view. 

Guétary (3 miles), standing on a hill to the southward, was next seen, and in due time we reached St. Jean de Luz (8 miles), a town of over4000 inhabitants (possessing a very good hotel and baths, and somehistorical buildings), situated on a strip of sand between the RiverNivelle and the sea. Here the road to Cambo branched off to the left, inland--the high road to Spain continuing near the seaboard--andfrequently skirting the Nivelle as far as St. Pée, we passed on byEspelette to Cambo. The Hôtel St. Martin there, which generallyattracts visitors for a few days at least, was not our destination; sowe took a glimpse at Fagalde's celebrated chocolate factory and the oldchurchyard high above the river--while our horses were beingchanged--and then resumed our journey to the Pas de Roland. [Footnote:So-called from the fable that Roland, coming to the place and wishingto cross, found the rocks barring his passage, so kicked them, whereupon they parted for him to pass between. ] The scenery now becamevery charming, the winding river (Nive) adding much to the generalbeauty, especially where it dashed out from between the rugged rocks ofthe gorge with which Roland's name is associated. 

After exploring this narrow pass we found a suitable place for luncheonand sat down. 

In returning, we halted near the village of Itsatsou, to gather some ofthe lovely scarlet anemones [Footnote: A fee of 1 franc for one person, or 2 francs for three, is expected for admission into the fields. ]which grow near there, and cover the fields with such a blaze of colouras makes them conspicuous from a long distance. The rest of the journeyin the cool of the afternoon was very pleasant, but our route was thesame till reaching Bidart, where we curved to the left, and came by abranch road (previously mentioned), _viá_ the Villa Marbella andthe Falaises, back to our hotel. 

At dinner that night we noticed that there had evidently been some"goings and comings" among the guests; and doubtless the new arrivalswere congratulating themselves on having succeeded in getting rooms inthe hotel--for be it understood this good house is nearly always full, as it deserves to be. We missed with sorrow the familiar forms of Mr. And Mrs. Berecasque, who, with all their bigoted hatred for anythingapproaching to High Church notions, were as a rule exceedingly genialand good-natured, as fat people usually are. 

The ladies certainly used to say that Madame had a perplexing way ofputting leading questions as to why somebody's daughter went withsomebody else's son, or what on earth could that nice gentlemanly youngcurate (Low Church of course) see in that fast young lady who wasalways working banners and such like enormities? But we never noticedthis; though that which on this particular evening probably no onecould fail to notice was, that their places were now occupied by acouple of beings as strikingly thin as Mr. And Mrs. Berecasque had beenfat. We were told their name, but there was rather a buzz ofconversation going on at the time, and we might not have caught itproperly, but it certainly sounded like "Grouser. " However, that doesnot matter much; what is far more to the point is the amusement thatMr. Grouser gave to those who had the privilege of sitting near him. Apparently a self-made man, without any children--who by bettereducations might have helped him to knowledge--his acquaintance withthe French language was like a peasant child's with turtle-soup;perhaps "a lick and a promise" would best explain it. But though onlyknowing a few words, which he pronounced with the vilest of accents, and then only when he had inserted his glass in his eye, he broughtthem out with ludicrous frequency whenever he had the chance. Here areexamples--"_Hi garsong!_ bring me another plate!" "_Garsongpoorquar_ don't you fetch some bread when I've asked three times forit?" "_Hi garsong! sil voo plate_, where are those potatoes?" Andso on all through dinner; while he appeared rather to enjoy themerriment he caused, thinking he must have said something really good, although of course he hadn't the slightest idea what it was!

To sketchers and lovers of contrasts a visit to Fuenterabia cannot failto prove a treat, and a better specimen of an old Spanish town it wouldbe difficult to find. The only convenient train in the morning thitherleaves early, and although we preferred driving, we made an early starttoo, in order to spend a long day. Having accomplished the eight milesand arrived at St. Jean de Luz, we had still a distance of 8 miles morebefore reaching Hendaye, the frontier town. There were occasionalpretty bits of country to be seen, especially in the vicinity ofUrrugne (10-1/2 miles), a village in which the Spanish element isnoticeable, but the succession of poplars along the roadside all theway--more or less--to Béhobie, was very monotonous. At Béhobie (14-1/2miles) the road to Hendaye leaves the direct route to Spain andbranches off to the right. Following this, we were soon at thefrontier. Hendaye (16 miles) is celebrated for its cognac and a certainliquor called by its name, as well as for an excellent beach andbathing establishment, beyond which there is little worth mention. Having put up the horses at the Hôtel de France, we repaired to thejetty, where happily the tide was high enough to permit of our beingferried across, instead of carried on the back of some brawny (andgarlicky) native. As we were half-rowed, half-poled, down the narrowwinding channel of the Bidassoa, we were once again indubitably "'twixtFrance and Spain, " though the vicinity of the ancient Spanish town, andthe lazy sentinels on the river's bank, made the scene much moreSpanish than French. Once landed, we strolled slowly across the"_Embarcadéro_, " and entered the town by the ancient gateway. Theprincipal street, which we then ascended, is indeed picturesque. Theminiature verandahs and overhanging roofs of the houses, the latterapproaching so close to one another as nearly to permit of shakinghands across; an occasional bright costume appearing at the window oron the verandah; the old church higher up the street, and the battered"Castilio" at the top, furnished ample materials for a very pleasantsketch. The church is well worth a visit, being very old and ofinteresting appearance. Owing to its sheltered position it did notsuffer nearly as much as most of the buildings from the missiles in thelate Carlist war. We passed several groups of lazy soldiers, who leeredat us offensively and made some uncomplimentary remarks, butotherwise--beyond the fact that the women stared a good deal when MissBlunt attempted to sketch--we met with no discourtesy. The new casinoproves an "extra" attraction in summer, but it is to be regretted that, for gambling purposes alone, many people should be drawn to this quaintold-world town, so worthy of a visit for its picturesqueness alone. 

At the time when we wished to visit San Sebastien we learnt that the"Citadol" was closed to visitors, owing to some foreigner havingfoolishly lighted his cigar near a powder magazine. As the "Citadol" isthe chief attraction, we penned a highly polite letter to hisExcellency the Governor of the Province, asking for his permission tovisit this otherwise forbidden ground. 

We received a most gracious reply, to the effect that, whenever weliked to come, the place was at our disposal, and accordingly selectedthe first fine morning for our trip. On this occasion we formed a partylarge enough for a coach and four, but were very careful to avoid arepetition of our Bétharram experiences. 

We discovered no new features of interest as far as Béhobie, but theday being very clear, we had a fine view of the distant Pyrenees andthe Spanish coastline from various points along the road. Passingthrough Béhobie's narrow streets and crossing the Bidassoa by thestrong stone bridge, we were only a minute "'twixt France and Spain, "and entering Irun found ourselves in the hands of the Customsauthorities. Having "nothing to declare" and nothing contrabandundeclared, we were soon permitted to proceed, although our "cocher"almost immediately afterwards stopped to change horses. Accordingly, wewalked on up a pretty lane with ivied walls, near which--in thebackground--stood an old church. Finding a comfortable place forlunching in the vicinity, we awaited the arrival of the coach, anddiscussed our hamper before again moving on. Not having too much time, however, we did not delay long, and remounting, bowled merrily along to"Pasages. " This was once the safest port on the coast, and in fact isyet; but the accumulation of sand, &c. , at the entrance, has made itpractically useless for any ships but those of very light draught. Itforms a tidal basin, and houses are built on its sides, along one ofwhich the road for some time skirts, but afterwards assumes a straightcourse and descends into San Sebastien. From the highest point of theroad, before we commenced descending, we had a splendid view of thetown, which looked busy, imposing, and clean. 

When once inside, we drove to the Hôtel de Londres; then crossed thestreet to the guardhouse, presented our "permit" for the "Citadol, " andafter a little fuss and _red tapeism_--such as Spaniards, evenmore than Frenchmen, dearly love--under the guidance of a soldier, commenced the ascent. How many times we presented our "carta" we knownot, but at every turn some official was ready to ask to see it, andthis business took almost as long as the actual mounting, though in theend we did manage to reach the summit. The view from thence was veryfine, extending for miles in all directions, but after enjoying it fora short time, we descended to visit the graves of the English who fellin defending the place in 1836 against the Carlists, which lie in alittle cemetery on one side of the hill. Maiden-hair ferns grow amongthe rocks by the path, which from time to time discloses views of thetown and the pretty rocky island--Santa Clara--in the bay. Afterdescending, we had time for a glimpse at the interior of the church ofSanta Maria and the bull-ring, as well as a stroll along the beautifulbeach, before it was necessary to start homewards, and when at lengthwe were deposited in safety at our hotel, we all acknowledged that theday had been a very pleasant one indeed! With such enjoyable drives, and the tennis, and the ever-changing sea, we never found time hangheavily on our hands; and if we had, there was the little railway tocarry us into the bustle of Bayonne for shopping or listening to theband, where _ennui_ would speedily have been driven away. Speakingof this railway reminds us that at Anglêt, one of the stations on theline, there is a very interesting convent of "Silent Sisters" withineasy access from the train. Although it is a sad sight to see all thesewomen deluded with the notion that their sins, however great, could notbe pardoned without such a bitter expiation; yet the order andcleanliness that is patent everywhere, and the gardens and greenhouses, lend an attraction to the place in spite of its melancholyassociations. [Footnote: Visitors are expected to purchase a specimenof the needlework exhibited to them, or at any rate to put a donationin the convent box. ]

When June has succeeded May, Biarritz begins to empty of its Englishand American visitors, to give place in July to the Spaniards andFrench. On the 15th of that month prices go up with a bound, oftenbecoming double and even treble what they were during the winterseason. This is the time to stroll on the "Plage" and watch thebathing; to note the varied costumes, see the merry faces, and listento the children's laughter, mingled with the splash of the waves. Butwe are only treating of spring, so must not encroach upon summer;but--following our countrymen's example--bid "Au revoir" to Biarritzbefore the glare forces us to parade the streets with blue spectaclesand double-lined parasols. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

CONCLUSION. 

"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Ourpaths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell. 

Although we have in reality come to the end of our tour, and haveconsequently no more places to discourse on, it may be suggested thatour task is but badly ended if we omit to mention such resorts asAmélie, Vernet, Molitg, and other spots, which, if of less importancethan those we have visited, are nevertheless _in_ the Pyrenees. That they are _in_ the Pyrenees cannot be disputed, but being inthe eastern portion, the way of reaching them from the resorts amongthe western heights is so roundabout, that but few people would thinkof visiting both. However, for the information of any intendingtravellers, we have collected what reliable facts we could about theabove-mentioned places--as well as Capvern, Preste-les-Bains, Panticosa, and a few others--which will be found in the generalinformation [Footnote: See Appendix A. ] at the end of the volume, andwill, we trust, be of service. 

We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though wehave one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far fromthe Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit. 

Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg, we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--inconsequence of negotiations that had been carried on for sometime--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a finePyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--fromCauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a livelyscene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou, " after theCol of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait amonghis native hills, to adorn these pages. 

[Illustration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU. '"]

Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that ourways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of ourtrip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a moredelightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving aboutthese beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels somoderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty ofspring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English andAmericans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds, heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared themountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm. 

We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, withoutany trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so oftenasserted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes ismagnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highestorder. 

They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail totouch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one momenthid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; inwinter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and grass androcks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, stillretaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with thecontrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed withbanks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could bemore lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding thesnow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly biddingthem "Farewell"?

As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a morefitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, andentitled

"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS. "

 Look on yon mountain peaks, Mark how each summit seeksUpward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn. Tow'ring above the plain, Over the weak and vain, Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn. 

 Look at each snowy crown, Whiter than softest down, Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest! See how the setting sun Kisses them one by one, And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest. 

 Look to the brilliant sky; --Dark though the clouds be, nigh--Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue. Mark where the shades of green Mingle with crimson's sheen, Till evening's dread decree curtains the view. 

 Hark to the drenching rain! Hark how it beats the pane!While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course. Fiercer yet swells the gale, Hark to the long-drawn wail!Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force. 

 * * * * *

 See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height; Storms beat on them in vain, Steadfast they will remain, Till the eternal day swallows up night. 

 * * * * *

 So may thy soul aspire Ever to climb up higher, Spurning the world's delights, caring for none; Shunning vain pomps and shows, Seeking but calm reposeIn the "Hereafter, " when life is done. 

[Illustration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomyhaze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height. "]

 So may'st thou yearn to wear, Like ev'ry angel there, Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white; And on thy face to shineThat radiancy divine, God's own unquenchable, immortal light. 

[Illustration]

 And, if life's courses seem Pleasant, like some sweet dream, Be thou beware of the evils around: Paths seeming paved with gold Oft mighty sins enfold, Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound. 

 Or should the trials come, Shatt'ring thy earthly home, Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life: Meekly thy burden bear To Jesus' throne, and thereThou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife. 

 Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks, And ev'ry soul forsakesThis baser earth, and flies to its last rest, Chastened by cold and heat, Wash'd by the storms that beat, Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid God's own blest!

THE END. 

APPENDIX A. 

GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THEPYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THECHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY. 

N. B. --_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c. , in thisportion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give hisrecommendation. _

AMÉLIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B. ](678 ft. ), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort, with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a meantemperature during the months of January, February, and March (takencollectively) of 48-1/3° Fahr. The average number of fine days in theyear is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100° to 144°, according to the distance from the source. They contain soda incombination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very smallproportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended inskin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronicrheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year. 

Bathing Establishments. --Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. Withhotel accommodation at both. 

Hotels. --Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Cafés, Casino, Theatre, &c. --Livingis by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diemought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. For "pension"; in the others it ischeaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation, twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc. : Thereare doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in thetown. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive, cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, andclusters of honeysuckle. 

The Chief Excursions are:--

Prats de Mollo (2618 ft. ), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 byroad; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours. 

Inns. --Maillard; Guin-Come. 

Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs withpourboire. 

Roc de France (4698 ft. ): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there andback. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery tobe seen from the summit. 

Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary todescend to the bottom of the "Gouffre, " for which the "espadrilles"(cord sandals) must be worn. 

Col de Faitg, Massanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charmingand picturesque excursion. 

La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i. P. [Footnote:i. P. , including pourboire. ] The first Spanish village over thefrontier; an interesting drive. 

Le Pertus (958 ft. ) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage23 francs, i. P. [Footnote: i. P. , including pourboire. ]

From Amélie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; acarriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i. P. [Footnote: i. P. , includingpourboire. ]

Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or VictorOlive's. 

Guide. --Bertrand Oms at Aries. 

ARCACHON [Footnote: The Chaplain, Mr. Radcliffe, has issued anexcellent guide-book for the locality. ]--Situated in the forest, and onthe shores of the basin of the same name. The English season is inwinter, the French in summer. A favourite resort on account of its mildand sedative climate. Most people live in villas in the forest duringthe winter, where the strong winds are not felt, and where the meantemperature is 50° Fahr. The calmness of the atmosphere, and the strongscent from the pines, has a beneficial tendency for those sufferingfrom chest complaints. 

To those who find it relaxing, Biarritz is recommended as a suitablechange. 

Hotels. --Grand (on the Plage), Continental, Grand du Forêt, &c. 

Pensions. --Villa Riquet || (Mons. Ollé, proprietor), VillaMontretout, Villa Peyronnet, and Villa Buffon. 

Chaplain. --Rev. W. Radcliffe. 

English Church, in the forest; services every Sunday. 

Cabs, during the day from 6 A. M. To 8 P. M. The course:

1-1/2 frs. With one horse; 2 frs. With two horses; by the hour, 2-1/2and 3 frs. Respectively. 

Horses and Donkeys, 2 frs. And 1 fr. The hour, respectively. 

Boats, from 2 frs. The hour, by arrangement. 

Bankers and Money Changers. --Dubos and Mauriac, opposite GrandHotel. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Chemists, Grocers, &c. 

Casino. 

Principal Drives and Excursion are:--

To Moulleau, 2 miles through the forest. 

To La Teste, 3 miles. 

To the Oyster Beds, in the centre of the bay, on the Ile desOiseaux. 

To the Lighthouse at Cape Ferret, across the basin, whence theBiscay can be seen. 

To the Dune de la Grave by boat, and across the forest to LaTeste, visiting the giant trees (this must only be undertaken with anexperienced guide). 

ARGELÈS (1528 ft. ), on the River Azun, in the Hautes-Pyrénées;with a genial climate that makes it a favourite resort very early inthe year. Some few people use it as a winter abode also. Living costs"en pension" from 9 to 14 frs. Per diem. 

Hotels. --De France; D'Angleterre || (cheaper than the France). 

Carriages. --At Limoges, || can be hired for the afternoon--with one horse, 5 frs. ; 2 horses, 8 frs. ; 4 horses, 10 frs. ; or bythe day, or for any special excursion. 

Horses, also from M. Limoges. For the afternoon, 4 frs. ; for theday, 8 to 10 frs. (N. B. --These are spring prices, and not those of theseason. )

Chemist. --M. Bualé, near the Post Office. 

Post and Telegraph Office, and a few shops. 

The Chief Excursions are:--

To the Villages of Ges, Serres, Salles, and Ourous--a lovelyride, 2 hours; horses, 4 frs. Each, pourboire, 1/2 fr. 

Drive round the Valley, via Argelès station, the Chateau deBeaucens, Pierrefitte, and St. Savin, 2 hours 30 min. ; carriage with 4horses, 11 frs. 50 c. , i. P. 

Le Balandrau (1729 ft. ). Lovely walk; one hour there and back. 

Pic de Pibeste (4548 ft. ) An easy climb: splendid view from thesummit. 

ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13-3/4 miles from Perpignan. In the midst offertile fields. Ruins of the Castle de Pujols in the vicinity. 

Hotels. --D'Angleterre, De France. 

ARLES-SUR-TECH (909 ft. ), in the Eastern Pyrenees. Chief town ofthe canton and the principal commercial centre in the Tech valley. 2-1/2 miles from Amélie, which was formerly known as Arles-les-Bains. Trade with Algeria in apples; and in whip-handles with the whole ofFrance. Old twelfth-century church in the town; and outside, behind agrating, lies the tomb of the Saints Abdon and Sennen. 

Hotels. --Rousseau, Pujade. 

ARREAU (2190 ft. ), at the junction of the valley of Louron withthe Aure valley, in the "Hautes-Pyrénées, " 23-3/4 miles from Bagnèresde Bigorre and 19-1/4 from Luchon, on the direct mountain road. (RouteThermale. )

Hotels. --De France, || D'Angleterre. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Chemist, Grocer, &c. 

In the town are the Chapelle de St. Exupère, with a good view from thebelfry; the Church of Notre Dame; and the ancient market-place. Thereare manganese mines in the vicinity. 

Excursions to Cardiac, 2 miles. Sulphurous baths, with hotelaccommodation. 

To the forest of Riou-majou and the falls of Mail-Blanc and Ejet. Overthe Col de Plan to the Spanish villages of St. Juan, Gestain, &c. Upthe Vallée de Lastié to the Monné de Luchon (7044 ft. ). 

ARRENS (2950 ft. ), in the valley of Azun, in the High Pyrenees, on the Route Thermale, between Eaux Bonnes (19 miles) and Argelès(7-1/2 miles). 

Hotels. --De France et de la Poste, De la Paix. 

Guides. --Jean Lacoste, M. Gleyre. 

Excursions (for which it is an excellent starting-point). --MontBâlétous, 10, 318 ft. (the most dangerous point for the ascent--fromEaux Bonnes it is much easier), 4 hours to the summit. Guide absolutelynecessary. 

Lac Miguelon and Pic d'Arrouy--11 hours there and back; amuch-recommended trip. 

Pic de Cambalés, 9 hours (9728 ft. ); an easy ascension; recommended. 

ARUDY, in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road from Oloron toEaux Bonnes or Chaudes; 17-1/4 miles from Oloron and 2 fromLouvie-Juzon. Grotte d'Arudy in the vicinity. 

ASPIN, a small village in the Aure valley, Hautes-Pyrénées, below the Col of the same name, on the road between Bigorre and Luchon. 

ASTÉ, a village at the entrance to the Gorge de Lhéris, nearBagnères de Bigorre--to which refer. Ruins of an ancient castle inwhich Gabrielle d'Estrelle lived. Church of 16th century. Visited byPitton de Tounefort, the naturalist. 

BAGNÈRES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft. ), standing at the mouth of the finevalley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the mostcelebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich insprings. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residenceall the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds, though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rarevisitor in the town, and with Argelès it shares the honour of beingamong the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There arenearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there ishardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot berecommended. They may be divided into four classes: 1st, saline; 2nd, ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are allnaturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64° to 123° Fahr. ; andamongst the hottest is the "Salies, " which contains a certain limitedquantity of arsenic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is saidto be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections ofthe mouth and throat. 

The Principal Establishment is known as the Thermes deMarie-Therèse, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths ofPyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) variesfrom 1 fr. To 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr. ;a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer asimple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs. , and douche-bath thesame, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs. 

The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pré, Santé, Salut, and Lassère, while the water of Labassère is brought daily tothe town for drinking purposes. 

This water of Labassère is sulphurous, and is considered highlybeneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of thelungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, andchronic laryngitis. See Labassère in Appendix. 

Grand Pré has three springs, in all of which iron is present;two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulousdiseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring, which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonicaction. 

Santé possesses two sources, one of which is artificiallyheated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_the "Ladies' Springs, " and have great efficacy in cases of overwork, shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia. 

Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures, employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in veryhot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties haveplaced it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in allnervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints, indigestion, &c. , its action being also diuretic. 

Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. Itis useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of thattype. 

For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise theirspecial uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre, ' andJoanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees. 

Hotels. --Beau Séjour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bonPasteur; Frascati; &c. &c. 

Banker and Money Changer. --D. Ortalis, 16 PlaceLafayette. 

Doctors. --(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St. Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Théâtre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30Allée de Coustous (ditto). 

Chemists. --M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22Place de Strasbourg. 

Restaurant. --M. Vignes, Place Lafayette. 

Nurses. --Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut. 

Draper. --Cornet, Allée des Constons, No. 22. 

Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds). --M. Peltier, 5Boulevard du Collège. 

Confectioners. --Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. 10 same street. 

Carriages. --Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3Rue Labrun. 

Horses. --Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette. 

There is service all the year in the small English Church, and thepresent chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M. A. Oxon. , is always willing toassist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of theirservices in the choir. 

The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. In the best hotels, and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably insummer. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum andReading-rooms in the town. 

Guides. --Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, RueLongue; Arnauné, Rue de Lorry. 

Principal Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars ofthese and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; andCount Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées' (French andEnglish). ] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, theCol d'Aspin, and up the Bédat and the Monné. Refer to Chapter II, forinformation. 

Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. There and back, by the village of Pouzac. 

Les Allées dramatiques, 2 hrs. There and back, riding--3 hrs. On foot; between the Bédat and the Monné, a pretty walk. 

The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassère, 6 hrs. There andback; 1-1/4 hrs. To Labassère; 2 hrs. To the Quarries; 3 hrs. To theSpring. Guide 6 frs. ; horses 10 frs. Each. 

The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. There and back, guide 15 frs. The viewfrom the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys. 

The Vallée de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu, " 9 hrs. There andback. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of theway. Guide 8 frs. , horse 10 frs. 

Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far asSte. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin. 

Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. To the summit; Guide 6frs. , horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Barèges. 

Pêne de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. To summit. A pleasant excursion. 

Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. There and back. Guide 8 frs. , horse 10 frs. A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit. 

Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226. ]--a naturalice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in thePyrenees"--8 hrs. There and back. Guide and ropes necessary. 

BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft. ). --A lovely town in the WesternPyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with theOne, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle ofthe valley of Luchon. 

The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places. 

Season. --1st of June to the end of October; but most charming inMay and early June. 

The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly allnaturally heated, varying from 103° to 150° Fahr. ; they may be dividedinto four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonateof iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered thebest and most complete series known; and the iron are principally usedfor drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered speciallybeneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneousaffections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervousexcitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consultedbefore venturing to bathe. 

There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon. 

In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishesto bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the bookkept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there isalways a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may haveto wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museumabove the baths, this has now been removed to the splendidCasino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from thePost and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc. 

Hotels. --Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended), Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, desBains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix. 

Apartments. --Of all descriptions, in the Allée des Bains, RueNeuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allée des Veuves, &c. &c. 

Doctors. --Several, both attached to the baths and independent. 

Carriage and Horse Proprietors. --Almost innumerable, but JeanSanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne. 

Guides. --For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigué, Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau. (Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and LuisSanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensionsfrom the Lac d'O). 

Tariff for drinking the waters only. --During season, 8 days, 4frs. ; 20 days, 8 frs. ; 30 days, 10 frs. 

Carriage on Hire (from the stand). --The "course, " 1 franc; thehour, 3 frs. For one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 centsrespectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. 50 cents the "course, " and 4 frs. The hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25cents and 5 frs. Respectively. 

For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen atthe Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for2 frs. By Lafont. 

The Chief Excursions:--

For Superbagnères (horses and guide 5 frs. Each respectively, hay on the summit 1 fr. Out of the season, but 2 frs. More each personin the season), Vallée du Lys (20 to 25 frs. For a landau), Bosost(carriage _via_ St. Béat, 45 frs. , horses via the Portillon 5 frs. Each, guide 6 frs. ), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of NotreDame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallée du Lys), theTour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer toChapter X. 

The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft. ), 11 miles. --Carriage-road as faras Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs. ) very rich in flora. 

To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et duParisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs. ;but 4 frs. Per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back. 

To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning bythe Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour furtherto the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de laPicade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fineexcursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice(_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits. 

The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic deMontné can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guiderecommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs. , guides 10frs. ; or by day 7 frs. 

Lac d'Oo (10 miles). --Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there isa very fine cascade (820 ft. ) on the far side, to which visitors can beferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs. --for more, an arrangement canbe made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visitsthis lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!

Saint Béat. --By carriage 25 frs. , or by rail to Marignac anddiligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI. 

L'Antenac. --6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guideeach 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can beridden. 

Pic Spijoles. --4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficultascension. 

Pic de Crabioules. --13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. Splendid view. 

Pic Quairat. --5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary. 

Le Céciré. --8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. Each. 

Pic Sacroux, --8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fineview. 

The Peaks Bacanère and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4miles). --9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. Each, according to season. One of the most charming of all theexcursions from Luchon. 

L'Entécade. --7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. Each. Amuch-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit. 

Pic de Poujastou. --8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. Each; an easy climb. 

The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in therange, including the Pic de Nethou (11, 169 ft. ), Pic 'du Milieu (11, 044ft. ), Pic de la Maladetta (10, 867 ft. ), Pic d'Albe (10, 761 ft. ), andthe Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft. ), are so difficult and perilous, andrequire such excellent guides, that the reader is referred forinformation to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previouslymentioned. 

_Note_. --Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, _via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs. , 5 to 10 frs. Pourboire, out of theseason; 100 to 130 frs. , and pourboire 10 frs. , in the season. 

BAREGES (4084 ft. ), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort, "as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds. 

The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springsvary in heat from 71° to 112° Fahr. , and are of a similar nature, allcontaining large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, "The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorantaction; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, cleanses foul ulcers, . .. Promotes the exfoliation of carious portionsof bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreignbodies which have been long imbedded . .. To make their way to thesurface. " It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgicaffections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints. 

Hotels. --Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrénées, Richelieu. Boardand lodging from 10 to 15 frs. Per day in the season (15th of June toSeptember). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered withsnow. 

The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequentlyfollowed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollenunder-clothing, which should always be taken. 

Bathing Tariff, &c. --Baths and douches from I fr. To 2 frs. 50cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription forone month, 10 frs. 

Apartments. --One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. Per day, according to position and size. 

Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others fromLuz. 

[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREANCHAIN. ----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE. ]

Post and Telegraph Office in the season. 

Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels. 

Guides. --Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, Menvielle, &c. &c. For the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class forminor excursions. 

Chief Excursions::--

For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallée de Lienz, refer toChapter VI. 

Pic de Néré. --6 hrs. There and back. Beware of vipers. 

Pic du Midi de Bigorre. --8 hrs. Up and down. Guide and horses, 5frs. Each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of thefinest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine daytruly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is anexcellent inn. 

Lacs d'Escoubous. --2 hrs. To the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. To the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. Return. Guide 4 to 6 frs. , horses ditto. 

Pic d'Ayré. --6 to 7 hrs. Up and down. Horses can be taken within1/2 hr. Of summit. Guide 6 frs. , horses ditto. 

Pic de Lienz. --5 hrs. Up and down. A pleasant climb. See ChapterVI. 

Le Néouville. --12 hrs. By the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guidenecessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees. 

BAUDÉAN. --A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. 

BAYONNE. --City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of theterrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz andSpain. 

Hotels. --St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, Dela Bilbaïna, De la Guipuzcoäna, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Négressestation for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _viâ_Anglet. 

Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellentmarket and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz. 

Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c. 

Cabs. --The course 1 fr. , the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 centsextra respectively for 2 horses. 

Chocolate. --Fagalde. 

Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguère, £c. , see ChapterXIII. 

BÉHOBIE. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct roadto Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz. 

BÉTHARRAM. --A pleasantly-situated village in theBasses-Pyrénées, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridgein the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village andthe bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, andis 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. Thestation on the railway, "Montaut-Bétharram, " is about 2 miles from thevillage. 

Inns. --De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in thevicinity. 

BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores ofthe Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées--2 miles from the Négresse stationon the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living duringthe winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are muchstronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable changefrom both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficialin cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints. 

Hotels. --De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre(the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c. 

Apartments. --All over the town, varying in price according toposition. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrodé, || Maison Broquedis. 

English Pension. --Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs. 

Doctors. --Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. Girdlestone. 

Carriages. --Maümus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de laMarie. 

Libraries. --One in connection with the English Church. Lendinglibrary at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, £c. ). 

Confectioners. --Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont. || Place de laMarie. 

Photographer. --P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux. 

Banker. --E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), InternationalBank. 

"Depot Anglais, " for wines, groceries, and English provisions, &c. 

English Club, Post and Telegraph Office. 

For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII. 

BIDART. --The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on thedirect route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guétary. 

BIELLE. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the road to EauxBonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs. 

BILHÈRES. --A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, aboveBielle, in the Basses-Pyrénées--celebrated for the copper mines in thevicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to theVallée d'Aspe. 

BlLLÈRES. --A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées onthe road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois deBillères" take their name from it. 

BIZANOS. --A village below Pau, on the Gave, in theBasses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Lourdes. 

BOO-SILHEN. --A village and railway station on the line fromLourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. There is the site of anancient camp in the vicinity. 

BOSOST. --A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by thePortillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrénées, in the valley ofAran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either onhorseback viâ the Portillon, or in a carriage viâ St. Béat. See ChapterX. Inn, Fonda d'España. 

CAMBO. --A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on thebanks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrénées. Afavourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of goodfishing. 

Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginousspring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxativequalities, and efficacious in cases of languor following longillnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic. 

The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but toowarm in summer. 

Hotel. --St. Martin. 

Chocolate Manufactory. --Monsieur Fagalde's. 

Doctor. --M. Albert Dotézac. 

Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates. 

CAMPAN (2192 ft. )--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées (3-3/4 milesfrom Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the directroad from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church andmarket-place. 

CAPVERN. --A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, built on ahill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which areerected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main linebetween Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15thof May to the 1st of November. 

Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouridé. Thewater principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion ofcarbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is anexcellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has alsobeen beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain livercomplaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that ofBouridé a sedative one. 

Hotels. --Grand, Beau Séjour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc. 

Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS. --A smallpicturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées--off the highroad between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon. Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's. 

CAUTERETS (3254 ft. )--A town situated in the gorge of the same name inthe Hautes-Pyrénées, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminusof the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineralwaters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visitedwith a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changesin temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights arecold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts tothe 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. Per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, andconsequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand. 

There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-foursprings are divided. The springs may be classed under twoheads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated. 

The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La Raíllère, and Les Thermes de Vieux César. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset, Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pré; in addition to which there are two "buvettes, " known asBuvette de César and Le Bois. The waters at the César Vieux are themost exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneousaffections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are speciallyefficacious in lung complaints; La Raíllère is used successfully inaffections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is speciallyrecommended to aid the digestion of La Raíllère's water; while Les Yeuxare beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. LePetit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similarcomplaints. 

Hotels. --Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc. 

Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded roomvaries from 3 to 10 frs. In the season. Much less at other times. 

Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes, " and many independentones. 

Chemists. --J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St. Martin. 

Confectioners. --Patisserie Suisse, Rue César; PatisseriePyrénéenne, Rue de la Raillère. 

Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds atDominique's, Rue de la Raillère. 

Guides. --Sarrettes, Clément Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare;and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tarifffor bathing, &c. , similar to other resorts. 

Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. For the day, foran ordinary trip 6 frs. ; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs. , with 50cents to the ostler. 

Carriage from Argelès, 20 frs. With luggage; pourboire 3frs. 

The Chief Excursions are:--

To the Col de Riou. --Splendid view. Guide 6 frs. , horses 6 frs. Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur. 

To the Cascade de Cérizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac deGaube. --Guides each 8 frs. , horses 6 frs. The favourite trip. 

Le Cabaliros. --6 hrs. Up and down. Guide 10 frs. , horses 10 frs. 

Le Monné. --7 hrs. Up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. Each, donkey 8 frs. Splendid view. 

Pic d'Enfer. --8-1/2 hrs. And 12 hrs. Respectively by the tworoutes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb. 

For the Vallée de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Picd'Ardiden. --9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb. 

Pic de Vignemale, --18 to 20 hrs. Not including rests. Guides, hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a verydifficult trip. 

CIER-de-Luchon. --A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. CIERP. --A small village at the foot of a rock in the Piquevalley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Béat on theline between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE. --A village in theBasses-Pyrénées on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station online connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of acastle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. Spent his childhood. Refer to Chapter I. DAX. --A town on the Adour, and junction forBordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are severalbathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, whereboard and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. Per diem. These baths are veryuseful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and mostkinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic anddiuretic effect. 

Hotels. --De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe. 

There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in thevicinity a bed of fossil salt. 

EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of awooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now tobe established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consistof five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, andsulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments--the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the mostcommodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almostmore than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springsfrom 54° to 88° Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases ofpulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also forchronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, hypochondria, and hysteria. 

The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, July and August. 

The Climate is mild, but warm in summer. 

Hotels. --De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, etc. 

Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of thehouses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pommé, Berdou, Tourné. Living inhotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs. , according to_étage, _ per diem. 

Chemists. --Cazaux fils, and Tourné. 

Confectioners. --Patisserie Suisse. 

Post and Telegraph Office. --The Route Thermale runs fromEaux Bonnes to Argelès, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII. 

Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones. 

Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc. 

Guides. --Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; alsoMaucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietorsas well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as thereis no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. Per diem for ordinarytrips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs. Less. 

The Chief Excursions are:--

For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to ChapterXII. 

Pic de Ger. --10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. Andprovisions necessary. Magnificent view. 

Le Gabizos. --Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees. 

Pic de Goupey. --7 hours up and down; guide necessary. 

Pic de St. Mont. --9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide notnecessary. 

Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious. --Guide and provisions necessary; awhole day; splendid excursion. 

EAUX CHAUDES. --Another miniature Spa--less contracted in itsposition, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in theBasses-Pyrénées, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but onaccount of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence forinvalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps upthe valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthypeople to stay in, and a good centre for excursions. 

The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. There are seven important springs and two of less consequence;and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, though the temperature extends about 10° Fahr. Higher. They arelargely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon andsoda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in casesof catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The"buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised. 

Hotels. --Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodationat "L'Etablissement Thermal. "

Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10to 16 frs. , but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension. "--For one dayor less than a week no fixed price can be quoted. 

Doctors. --One in connection with the establishment. 

Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, who are mostly horse proprietors. 

Guides. --Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugène Olivan, Jean Sallenave. Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. Per diem without providing food issufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. For horses--though this is only forordinary excursions and not perilous ones. 

Bathing Tariff. --Similar to that of other Spas. 

Chief Excursions are:--

Goust. --1 hour there and back; mule track. 

Grotte des Eaux Chaudes. --2 hours there and back--for lights andpermit 1 fr. 50 c. Each is charged, guide 2 frs. 

Gabas and the Bious-Artigues. --See Chapter XII. Rather over 8miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip. 

Baths of Panticosa. --13 to 15 hours by the mule track; afavourite way into Spain. 

To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiringseveral days. 

Pic Scarput. --10 hours up and down; a very fine climb. 

Lac d'Artouste. --10 hours up and down; a viper region. 

Pic d'Arriel. --10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine viewfrom summit, but not an easy climb. 

Le Balaïtous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary tohave good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass thenight on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. Adifficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger. 

FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp. ). A quaint old Spanish town on theleft bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of avisit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr. ) and Irun(Sp. ) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursionfrom Biarritz. 

GABAS. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from EauxChaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Innaccommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for severalexcursions. 

GAN. --A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading toOloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes(22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. Hôtel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs. 

GAVARNIE (4380 ft. ). An unpretentious village with good hotelaccommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery inthe Hautes-Pyrénées, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of theCirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII. , also for the Falls ofMarboré, 1380 ft. 

Hotels. --Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade. 

There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhoodrequiring experienced guides; among which are Le Piméné, the Brèche deRoland, Le Taillon, Le Gabiétou, Le Marboré, Pic d'Astazou, and theMont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred tothe previously recommended authorities. 

No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, andof these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the greatascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering. 

[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS NEAR BAGNÈRES-DE LUCHON. ]

Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. Each. Guides, 2 frs. Each. Asses, 1 1/2 fr. Each. 

GAZOST-les-Bains. --A village in the Vallée du Nez, 7 1/3 milesfrom Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitteand Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The baths, fed by four coldsulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, wherethere is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they arein a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous leadmines in the neighbourhood. 

Rooms at the Châlet de la Scieric. 

GÈDRE (3214 ft. ). --A poor village in lovely scenery (seeengraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in theHautes-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the directroad between the two. 

Hotels. --Des Voyageurs, Palasset. 

For information on the so-called Grotte de Gèdre see Chapter VIII. Thetwo chief excursions from Gèdre are those to the Vallée de Héasand the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one triphere. From Gèdre to the chapel of Héas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from thechapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luzand St. Sauveur. 

GERDE. --A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomières_ or pigeon trapsamong the trees above it. See Chapter II. 

GRIPP (3448 ft. ). --A well-situated village in theHautes-Pyrénées, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Barèges, 21/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hôtel des Voyageurscomfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyondthe village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied bya cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity. 

GRUST. --A small village in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Refer to Sazosin Appendix. 

GUÉTARY. --A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 3 miles fromBiarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guétary, on the line betweenBordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village. 

HÉAS. --A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrénées, five miles from Gèdreand eight from Gavarnie, by the Piméné. 

Inn. --De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besideswhom, Jacques Canton and François Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, areexcellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. SeeGèdre. 

HENDAYE. --The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in theBasses-Pyrénées, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the samename. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux andMadrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross theBidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. For 3 persons; for informationconcerning which see Chapter XIII. 

Buffet at the station. 

Money changed. 

Hotels/. --De France, Du Commerce, Americani. 

IRUN. --The Spanish frontier town and railway station on thedirect line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse. 

Buffet at the station, also a money changer. 

Hotels. --Echenique, De Arupe. 

IZESTE. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, near Louvie-Juzon andArudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron. 

JACA. --A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, 521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, fromwhich it is 571/2 miles distant. 

LABASSÈRE. --A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, celebrated for itswaters and slate quarries (refer to Bagnères de Bigorre). It is 11/2hrs. Distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. Longer toreach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water isbottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use inBagnères de Bigorre. 

LAMOTHE. --A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant. 

LARUNS. --An important though tumble-down village in the Vald'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and thesame from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24miles (see Chapter XII. ), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on adusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still beseen occasionally at this village. 

Hotels. --Des Touristes, Des Pyrénées. Living economical. 

LESCAR. --An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau byrail. Several interesting ruins, &c. , for which refer to Chapter I. 

LOURDES. --A town in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and railway station onthe direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line toPierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quiteeclipsed Bétharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto wherethe Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. Anadmirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginaryapparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and alwaysrepresented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty yearsand superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into afair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller isadvised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the bedsare apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form. " TheHôtel des Pyrénées may be trusted. 

Hotels. --Des Pyrénées || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De laGrotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, &c. 

Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels. 

Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c. 

LOURES (1445 ft. ). --A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 17 1/2miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see ChapterXI. ), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon andMontrejeau, and carriages await trains. 

Hotels. --Pyrénées, Lassus. 

LOUVIE-JUZON. --A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrénées, 16miles from Pau, n. From Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from theruins of the ancient castle of Géloz. There is a curious old church inthe village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known asthe Hôtel des Pyrénées. 

LOUVIE SOUBIBON. --A small village at the foot of a mountainworked for its slates, 4 miles from the above. 

LUZ (2410 ft. ). --A well-situated village in a fertile valley inthe Hautes-Pyrénées, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of theline to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Barèges. Fromthe last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (seeBareges in Appendix). 

Hotels. --De l'Univers, || Des Pyrénées, De l'Europe, &c. 

Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the wholeexpensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. May becharged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10). 

Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can beobtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur inAppendix). 

Post and Telegraph Office. 

For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Château St. Marie, &c. , refer to Chapter VI. MAULÉON-BAROUSSE. --In thevalley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrénées, 3 1/4 miles from Saléchan, on theline between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not tobe confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre). 

Inn. --M. Grillon's. 

MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft. ). --Built on a terrace above theCastellane Gorge in the Pyrénées Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Pradesand 31 from Perpignan. 

The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) aresituated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are suppliedby 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate ofsoda, and of temperatures varying from 88° to 100° Fahr. The water hasemollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especiallyuseful in diseases of the skin and nerves. 

The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and theseason extends from May to October. 

Hotels. --The best accommodation is to be had at the bathingestablishments Barrère, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. Massia, who is a doctor by profession. 

Chief Excursions are:--

To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohèdes (11 hours there and back). 

To the Baths of Carcanières (about 11 hours there _only_)_via_ Mosset. 

MONTAUBAN. --A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 1-1/2 miles fromLuchon (see Chapter X. ), known for its church and cascade. 

MONTGAILLARD. --A village on the banks of the Adour, in theHautes-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line betweenBigorre and Tarbes. 

MONTREJEAU. --A town standing on an eminence above the river inthe Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line. 

Hotels. --Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c. 

Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. For furtherinformation. 

MORCENZ. --A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles fromBordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a smallbathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeatespring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood. 

Buffet at station. 

Inns. --Commerce, Ambassadeurs. 

NAY. --An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the leftbank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line fromPau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. Tanneries, &c. , and ancient buildings. See Chapter I. 

Inns. --Du Commerce, De France. 

NÉGRESSE. --The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), onthe direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid. 

NESTALAS. --A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte;the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of theline from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see inAppendix). 

OLORON. --A town on a hill above the river of same name, in theBasses-Pyrénées, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb(across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of theTransition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) incommunication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for someexquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts_except_ the town itself. 

Hotels. --De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle. 

Oo. --A small village with an ancient church, in theHaute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of thesame name. 

Guide. --Jean Brunet. 

ORTHEZ. --An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave dePau, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, hasgreat historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge andother remains of olden days (see Chapter I. ). Coach to Salies (10miles), and Mauléon-Licharre (27 miles). 

Inns. --De la Belle-hôtesse, Des Pyrénées, &c. 

PAILLOLE (or Payole). --A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 11-1/4miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col dePeyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. And IX. 

Inn. --De la Poste. 

PANTICOSA. --A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by foursprings of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular)chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action. 

Hotels. --Accommodation can be best obtained in the ninedifferent bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor;there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol. 

Horses. --At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda. 

Doctors. --Attached to the establishments. 

PASAGES. --A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port inthe Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII. 

PAU (770 ft. ). --A former capital, and most important town on theright bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées. Afavourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. Anexcellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c. , see Chapter I. 

Hotels. --France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, SplendideBellevue, Beau Séjour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV. , &c. 

Pensions. --Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c. 

Apartments. --All over the town. 

Season. --1st of October to end of May. 

Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at pricesvarying from £8 per month to £80. 

Baths. --Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c. 

Carriage Proprietors. --Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. £c. 

Horse Proprietors. --Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse. 

T-Carts and Good Ponies. --Schürch, Rue de la Fontaine. 

English Churches. --Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; ChristChurch, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; PresbyterianChurch, Rue Montpensier. 

Bankers. --Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c. ; Mr. Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino, &c. 

English Club. --Place Royale. 

For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer toChapter I. ; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to ChapterXIII. 

PAYOLE. --See Paillole in Appendix. 

PERPIGNAN. --A large town on the river Tet, in the PyrénéesOrientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouseline and starting-point of the coach for Amélie; 132 miles fromToulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, and 23 1/2 from Amélie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnetjewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive andpomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; château (splendid viewfrom donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr. ; theatre, PictureGallery, &c. 

Hotels. --Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c. 

Post and Telegraph Office. 

The Chief Excursions are:--

La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage _via_ St. Laurentde la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque. 

Castell Rossello et Canet. --6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part ofthe way. 

PEYREHORADE. --Village in the Landes, and station on the linebetween Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles). 

Inns. --Lafond Des Voyageurs. 

PIERREFITTE. [Footnote: The station is calledPierrefitte-Nestalas. ]--A village situated at the foot of the Pic deSoulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrénées. Terminus ofthe railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences toCauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Barèges. 

Hotels. --De la Poste, || Des Pyrénées, De France. Living moremoderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argelès. Forfurther information see Chapter IV. 

PRESTE-LES-BAINS. --A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19miles from Amélie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 fromPerpignan, the nearest railway station. 

The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous springonly, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated onesat the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, forlithiasis and catarrh of the bladder. 

Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment. 

Season. --June to October. 

PUYOO. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, one mile distant fromthe station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line betweenBordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 milesdistant, respectively. 

Hotels. --Lafont, Voyageurs. 

RÉBENAC. --A village in the Val de Néez, Basses-Pyrénées, 10miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, between the two. 

Inn. --Du Perigord. 

SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft. ). --A village in the Haute-Garonne, 2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel ofsame name, to which a legend is attached. 

SAINT BÉAT. --A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles fromMarignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, fromwhich it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drivefrom Luchon (see Chapter XI. And Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella_via_ Bosost. 

Inn. --Commerce. 

SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES. --An ancient Roman town in theHaute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeauline, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c. , refer toChapter XI. 

Inn. --De Comminges. 

The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St. Bertrand. 

SAINT CHRISTAU. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles fromOloron, from which it is a lovely drive. 

Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which iscalcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful forcuring wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, andaffections of the eyes. 

Hotels. --Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, androoms from 2 to 5 francs per diem. 

There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellentfishing. 

SAINTE MARIE (près Bigorre). --A village in the Campan valley, Hautes-Pyrénées, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (seeChapter II. ). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 fromBarèges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Cold'Aspin. 

SAINTE MARIE (près Oloron). --A suburb of Oloron, on the oppositebank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix. 

SAINTE MARIE (près St. Laurent). --A small village on a hill inthe Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and7-1/2 from Perpignan. 

SAINTE MARIE (près Saléchan). --A small bathing resort, situatedin a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées about 1 mile from Saléchanstation on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. 

The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities ofmagnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunkin its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic andpurgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodationin the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it. 

SAINT JEAN DE LUZ. --A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, inthe Basses-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious tooutrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free fromdampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old churchand several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drivesfrom Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII. 

Hotels. --De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, Del'Océan, De Madrid. 

Apartments and Houses furnished in the town. 

Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c. 

SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE. --A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles fromPerpignan. 

Hotels. --Got, Garriques. 

SAINT MAMET. --A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile fromLuchon (see Chapter X. ). The church is interesting. 

SAINT PÉ. --A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles fromthe one and 6-1/4 from the other. 

SAINT PÉE-sur-Nivelles. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, onthe route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo--8-3/4 miles from theformer, and 10 miles from the latter. 

SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft. ). --A bathing and mountain resort in theHautes-Pyrénées, 7 miles from Pierrefitte--the nearest station--1-1/4from Luz, and 5 from Barèges. A most charming place for a spring orsummer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerouspleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII. 

Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, inwhich sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diureticin its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodiceffect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous systemgenerally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of longillnesses, hæmorrhages, &c. , besides being pleasant to the skin. 

Hotels. --De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, DeParis. 

Guides (living at Luz). --Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernardsenior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for otherexcursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers. 

Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages(at Luz) as well. 

Post and Telegraph during the season only, but lettersand telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being onedelivery and one collection of the former daily. 

Chief Excursions:--

To Bareges. --10 to 15 frs. Landau; 2 frs. Pourboire. See ChapterVI. 

To Sazos and Grust. --See Chapter VII. 

To Gavarnie. --Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs. ; pourboire, 3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. From Gavarnie. SeeChapter VIII. 

The Pic de Bergons. --4 frs. Each horse, guide 5 frs. Out ofseason, 6 frs. Each in season. Refer to Chapter VII. 

The Pic de Viscos. --7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs. , horse 8frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion. 

Pic de Néré. --8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs. , guide 12frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb. 

Pic d'Ardiden. --8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A finebut difficult climb. 

SAINT SAVIN. --A very ancient village in the Argelès valley, inthe Hautes-Pyrénées; fully described in Chapter IV. 

SAINT SÉBASTIEN. --A town in the north of Spain, on the shores ofthe Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 fromHendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. SeeChapter XIII. 

Hotels. --De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, DeBerdejo, &c. 

SALÉCHAN. --A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths)and Siradan (baths). 

SALIES. --A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station. 

It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owetheir fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them. 

Hotels. --Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris. 

SAZOS. --A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c. , referto Chapter VII. 

SIRADAN. --A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, inthe Hautes-Pyrénées, with a bathing establishment and hotel in onebuilding, 2 miles from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. Theyhave a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tendto excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well. 

SOULOM. --A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious oldchurch. See Chapter IV. 

TARBES. --A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for theBigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet atthe station. See Chapter III. 

Hotels. --De la Paix, France, Commerce. 

URRUGNE. --A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 2-1/2 miles from St. Jean de Luz. 

USTARITZ. --The name of two villages, formerly separate, in theBasses-Pyrénées, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence_via_ Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles). 

VALCABRÈRE. --A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles fromLoures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Churchof St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity. 

VENASQUE. --A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours fromLuchon (21 miles) by the _Port_ of the same name. There are somebaths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphuroussprings at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon. 

Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi(Antonio Saora) for travellers. 

VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft. ), a bathing resort situated in ahollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railwaystation. 

There are several springs which supply the large BathingEstablishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water islargely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similarto other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections ofthe air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less excitingaccording to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet hassome reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder thanAmélie (to which refer in Appendix). 

Hotels. --Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), DuParc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c. 

Villas furnished to be let. 

Carriages and Horses. 

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c. 

Guide. --Michael Nou. 

Chief Excursions:--

The Canigou (9144 ft. )--11 hours up and down. Guiderecommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs. , guide 10 frs. Horses cango within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. Theascent is long but not difficult. 

The Fountain des Esquereyres. --_Via_ Castell, 1/2 hour; apleasant walk. 

Tour de Goa. --4 hours up and down. An interesting battlementedtower, with a fine view. 

Vallée de Sahorre. --3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip. 

Cascade de Cadi. --6 hours there and back; guide recommended. 

The Abbey of Canigou. --2-1/2 hours there and back; guideunnecessary. An interesting ruin. 

Vieuzac. --A suburb of Argelès, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes iscalled Argelès-Vieuzac. 

Villelongue. --A small village in the Argelès valley, in theHautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV. 

APPENDIX B

RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THEPYRENEES. 

For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful arailway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. Are also most excellentin every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-ChaixContinental, " price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and acomplete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins deFer, " published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr. , which gives the Frenchrailways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principallines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents. 

It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that theyshould have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole ofthe tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on theirbaggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, whichsaves trouble if one should happen to be lost. 

When people are stopping the night _en route_ at a place, and donot wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have tobring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leaveit in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell theporter--when they give him the baggage ticket--that it was leftovernight (for which the charge is 1d. Per package), whereupon he willregister it without further trouble. 

If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggageis accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent thesame to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; ifthere is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take theresponsibility--if the urgency of the case is made _argentiferously_clear--but the plan is not recommended. _It is importantto know_ that if a traveller misses his train he _must present_his _ticket_ at the ticket office to be _restamped_ in orderto make it again available--otherwise it is liable to be forfeited. 

Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling whichhotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; andit must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcelstaken into the carriage, the aid of porters can _never_ be countedon. See Chapter XI. 

Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (_i. E. _ 66 lbs. Eng. ) iscarried free; 1d. Being charged for the registration thereof. 

 * * * * *

_Routes from London to Paris. _

_Route_ 1. --_Via_ Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route. 

_Route_ 2. --_Via_ Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. As above. 

_Route_ 3. --_Via_ Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, andPoissy: the least expensive route. 

_From Liverpool to Bordeaux. _

_Route_ 4. --Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co. 's steamers, fortnightly, sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days. 

_From London to Bordeaux. _

_Route_. 5. --Per General Steam Navigation Co. 's steamers, averagepassage 3 to 4 days. 

_Route_ 6. --_Via_ Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alençon, Le Mans, Tours and Angoulême. _From Paris to Bordeaux. _

_Route_ 7. --_Via_ Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (forTours), Poitiers, Angoulême, and Libourne. 

_From Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre. _

_Route_ 8. --_Via_ Orléans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route fromParis to the Pyrénées. 

_From Paris to Toulouse. _

_Route_ 9. --_Via_ Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonières: the quickestand best route for the Pyrénées Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, Amélie, &c. 

_From Bordeaux to Arcachon_. 

_Route_ 10. --_Viâ_ Gazinet, Facturé, Lamothe, and La Teste. 

_From Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre_. 

_Route_ 11. --_Viâ_ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: alonger route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8. 

_From Bordeaux to Biarritz_. 

_Route_ 12. --_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, andBayonne. 

_From Bordeaux to Pau_. 

_Route 13_. --_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, and Lescar. 

_From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes_. _Route_ 14. --Bycarriage _viâ_ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns. 

_Route_ 15. --By rail _viâ_ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: Thisrailway was to be opened this year (1883). ] and carriage from Laruns. 

_From Pau to Lourdes_. 

_Route_ 16. --_Viâ_ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Bétharram, and St. Pé. 

_From Pau to Oloron_. 

_Route_ 17. --_Viâ_ Gan and Belair. 

_From Lourdes to Argelès_. 

_Route_ 18. --_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen. 

_From Lourdes to Pierrefitte_. 

_Route_ 19. --_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argelès. 

_From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Barèges, andGavarnie_. 

_Route_ 20. --By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence orprivate carriage to Cauterets. 

_Route_ 21. --By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence orprivate carriage to Luz. 

_Route_ 22. --By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similarconveyances to St. Sauveur. 

_Route_ 23. --By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Barèges. 

_Route_ 24. --By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation toGavarnie. 

_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Barèges_. 

_Route_ 25. --By carriage _viâ_ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaïgues, and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer. 

_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon_. 

_Route_ 26. --By carriage _viâ_ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees. 

_Route_ 27. --By rail _viâ_ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, Saléchan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round. 

_From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges_. 

_Route_ 27. --By carriage _viâ_ Cier, Marignac, Saléchan, Loures, and Labroquère. 

_Route_ 28. --By train _viâ_ Marignac and Saléchan to Loures, and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures toMontrejeau. 

_From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau_. 

_Route_ 29. --By carriage to Loures station, thence by train toMontrejeau. 

_Route_ 30. --By carriage direct to Montrejeau. 

_From Toulouse to Perpignan_. 

_Route_ 31. --Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, Salses, and Rivesaltes. 

_From Perpignan to Amélie-les-Bains_. 

_Route_ 32. --By diligence or carriage _viâ_ Pollestres, LeBoulou, and Le Pont de Ceret. 

_From Perpignan to Molitg_. 

_Route_ 33. --By rail _viâ_ Millas, Ille, Bouleternère, andVinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage _viâ_ Catlar toMolitg. 

_From Perpignan to Vernet_. 

_Route_ 34--Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet. 

_Route_ 35--By rail _viâ_ Prades to Villefranche, and carriagethence to Vernet. 

APPENDIX C. 

SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS. 

_Artigue_, pasturage, prairie. _Barranque_, a deep hollow or ravine. _Borde, Bourdette_, farm-house, barn, cot. _Caire, Quaire, Quaïrat_, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. _Canaou_, narrow ravine worn by the snow. _Cap_, mountain tip. _Clot_, a valley without exit. _Colline_, a small valley, a dale. _Cortal, Courtaou_, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. _Couila, Couillade_, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. _Estibe_, pasturage, feeding-ground. _Estibère_, a well-pastured mountain. _Fitte_, pointed summit. _Montagne_, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). _Neste_, mountain torrent. _Orrhy, Orri_, shepherd's hut. _Oule_, a bowl-shaped valley. _Pech, Pouey, Puy_, a mountain of no great height, in the Western Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. _Pène, Peña, Penne_, pointed rock. _Peyre_, a large crag. _Piche, Pisse_, a cascade waterfall. _Pinède, Pinade_, pine forest, site of pine forest. _Pique_, synonymous with _Fitte_, pointed summit, peak. _Pla, Plan_, a valley with level meadows. _Prade, Pradère_, similar to _Estibe_, feeding-ground, meadow. _Raillère_, steep decline, avalanche channel. _Roque_, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. _Sarrat, Serre, Serrère_, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of mountain. _Sarre_, a small hill. _Séoube, Scube_, wood, forest. _Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc_, a steep and lofty peak with large buttresses. 

The _Defiles_ and _Passes_ of the mountains for which the word_Col_ is generally applied, bear many other names, of which thefollowing, with their special significations, are the chief:--

_Core_, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. _Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette_, generally applied to passes on the small side ranges. _Pas_, a pass difficult of approach. _Port_, a pass in the principal chain. _Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet_, passes in the principal or side chains. 

APPENDIX D. 

GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c. 

It would be difficult to speak with _too_ much weight on thesubject of _bread_, especially where invalids are concerned, andthat article in the Pyrenees is essentially _bad_--we might almostsay _unfit for food_. With the exception of Bagnères deBigorre--and then only when specially ordered--and _in theseason_, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountainresorts is abominably sour. Travellers _do_ eat it, because theyhave no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In ouropinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! Butit would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have allalong recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we couldsuggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it provedcomplete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as onecould wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet thewishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. OttoKern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him tosupply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place wemight be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, sothat a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change inour address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, ahalf-franc telegram told him the news, and _our bread_ neverfailed to be at the _right_ place on the _right day_. Thebread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle forcommission (i. E. Paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 centsper diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in timehotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured thatit would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended todo so on his own account; though in all other respects he will findmost of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When oncein the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an averageprice of 10 frs. Per day--perhaps a shade less--was what our hotelexpenses amounted to; including--coffee and milk, bread and butter, eggs _or_ kidneys _or_ chops for the first breakfast; tabled'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higherthan 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of aspring or autumn tour--_out of the season_--and rather easier thana traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived withouthaving previously written and made terms. _We_ invariably wrote, and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, goodrooms, good food, and _dry beds_. 

It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as toexpenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c. ; asabove stated 10 frs. Per day paid all hotel expenses (including _vinordinaire_), and we consider that in the spring, with severalexcursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives--such asBigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. &c. --25 frs. Or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense ofeach person. In the summer of course 35 frs. , or even 40 frs. , would berequired for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in thespring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as itis in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees. 

Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, notexcluding _whiskey_, are difficult to obtain, and it is well totake them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, butother resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worthknowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby anymoderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence;but it must be understood at the same time that _bread_ will inlike manner be delivered _only_ where the railway or diligenceruns; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no_official_ communication, they must depute some agent to receiveletters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forwardthem by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it willprove costly. 

The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. The 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz. ), and 2-1/2d. For every additional 15 grammes. 

Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (seeAppendix A) a post-office belongs. 

Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for thesame as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes. 

The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. Per word. 

Money is reckoned at 25 frs. To the £1 English, and banknotes or goldwill be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, atthe larger resorts. 

TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS. 

1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. 1 " = 1-3/4 pints. 2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. 4 " = 7 pints. 8 " = 7 quarts. 

TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES. 

 29 grammes = 1 oz. 57 " = 2 oz. 86 " = 3 oz. 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. 1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. 1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. 

TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES. 

100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inchas near as possible. 

 5 centimetres = 2 inches. 10 " = 4 " 15 " = 6 " 20 " = 8 " 25 " = 10 " 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. 100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. 

TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THEHEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c. 

1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. As near as possible, without using decimals;but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, whichhowever have been duly supplied in the following table, but thefractions omitted:--

Metres. Ft. In. Metres. Ft. In. Metres. Ft. In. . 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1, 312 6 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1, 640 7 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1, 968 8 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2, 296 9 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2, 624 10 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2, 953 0 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1, 000 = 3, 281 1 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2, 000 = 6, 562 2 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3, 000 = 9, 843 3 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3, 100 = 10, 171 5 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3, 200 = 10, 499 6 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3, 300 = 10, 827 7 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3, 400 = 11, 155 8 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3, 500 = 11, 483 9 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4, 000 = 13, 124 4 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6

TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES. 

1 kilometre = 1, 000 metres = 1, 093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly aspossible, without employing decimals; but at this computation thekilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the followingtable, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:--

Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles. 

 1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 5 = 3 50 = 31 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 11 = 7 160 = 99 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 17 = 10-1/2 1, 000 = 618-3/4 18 = 11-1/4

COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS. 

1° Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr. ; 5° Cent. = 9° Fahr. It must be understoodthat, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit32°, these 32° must be taken into account in all calculations abovefreezing-point: thus +5° Cent. Are equivalent to a temperature of 41°Fahr. 

 Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr. 

Below -15 = +3 17 = 63Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 -5 = +21 19 = 65 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 1 = 34 25 = 76 2 = 36 30 = 85 3 = 37 35 = 94 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. 5 = 41 40 = 103 6 = 43 45 = 112 7 = 45 50 = 121 8 = 47 55 = 130 9 = 48 60 = 139 10 = 50 65 = 148 11 = 52 70 = 156 12 = 54 75 = 165 13 = 55 80 = 174 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 14 = 57 90 = 192 15 = 59 95 = 201 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point. 

INDEX. 

A. 

Abbé's song, the, A dirty avalanche, A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), Adour, basin of, Allée d'Etigny (Luchon), de Barcugna, des Bains, Verte (Barèges), Allées de Cambasque, Amélie-les-Bains, excursions from, general information, hotels at, &c. , Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), _Anemone vernalis_, scarlet, wood, A new "diet of worms, "An excited dog-fancier, An extraordinary detachment, Anglêt, Appendix A, B, C, D, Aran, valley of, Arboust, valley of, Arcachon, Arcachon, excursions from, general information, hotels at, Argelès, drive round valley of, excursions from, hotels at, valley of, Argelès-sur-Mer, Arles-sur-Tech, Arlos, Arreau, hotels at and excursions from, Arrens, excursions from, hotels at, Arrieuzé (river), Arroudet, cascade of, Artigues-Tellin, Arudy, Ascent of the Col de Riou, Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, Aspe, valley of, Aspin, col of, Asphodel, Assat, Asté, Atalaya, cape, Auberge du Lys (Luchon), Auch, road of, Aure, valley of, Avajan, Avalanche, a dirty, Avenue de Salut, Ax, road of, B. 

Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de LuchonBagnères de Luchon to BarègesBagnères de BigorreBagnères de Bigorre, bathing establishment ofBagnères de Bigorre, excursions fromBagnères de Bigorre, hotels ofBagnères de Bigorre, springs ofBagnères de Luchon to MontrejeauBagnères de Luchon to St. Bertrand de CommingesBagnères de LuchonBagnères de Luchon, baths ofBagnères de Luchon, casino ofBagnères de Luchon, excursions fromBagnères de Luchon, general informationBagnères de Luchon, hotels atBallooningBarbe de BouchBarèges " bathing establishment of " excursions from " hotels ofBarousse, valley ofBasin of Adour " EchezBaths of Amélie " Barèges " Capvern " César " Grand Pré " Hontalade " Le Pré " Luchon " Luz " Marie Thérèse " Mauhourat " Molitg " OEufs " Panticosa " Pauze Nouveaux " " Vieux " Petit St. Sauveur " Preste " Raillère " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) " St. Sauveur " Salut " Santé " Siradan " VernetBaudéanBayonne " general information " hotels atBeaucens, castle ofBédatBee orchidsBéhobieBélestenBernadette SoubironsBétharram " bridge nearBetpouey (Barèges)Biarritz " amusements of " Cape Atalaya at " general information " hotels at " Port Vieux atBidartBidassoaBielleBilhèresBillères (Pau)Billères plains of, " woods of, Bious-Artigues, Bishop's arrival, the, Bizanos, Black Forest (Bosost), Black Prince, Boo-Silhen, Bordeaux to Arcachon, Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre, Bordeaux to Biarritz, " to Pau, Bordeaux, " hotels at, " steamers to, " trains to, Bordères, Bosost, " chapel of St. Antoine at, " church of, " Fonda (inn) d'España at, Box plants, Brada (mountain), Bread, " arrival of, Brêche d'Allanz, " Fausse, " de Roland, Broussette, valley of, Bué, Bugaret (mountain), " torrent of, Burbe, valley of, Burnished toes, Butte du Trésor, Buvette de Minvieille, C. 

Cabaliros, the, Cabanes du Lys, Cagots, Cambo, " hotels at, Campan, Canine absurdity, " feat, a, Canton, odours of, Capercailzie, Capvern, " baths of, " hotels at, Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), Carnival time (Pau), Cascade d'Arroudet, " de Cérizey, " du Coeur, " de Discoo, " des Eaux Bonnes, " d'Enfer, " du Groshêtre, " de Laressec, " de Lassariou, " du Lutour, " du Marboré, " de Montauban, " de Pisse-Arros, " de Rioumaou, " du Serpent, " de Sidonie, " du Valentin, Casino (Luchon), " (Pau), " du Portillon (Luchon), " de Roulette (Luchon), Castel-Géloos, Castel-Mouly, Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil)Castets, Catarabe, Cat-fight, Cauterets, " baths of, " excursions from, " Fruitière of, " Gorge of, " hotels of, Cazaril, Cazaux, Céciré (Bosost), " (Superbagnères), Cemetery, Luz, " Pau, Cercle des Etrangers (Barèges), Cérizey, cascade of, Chambre d'Amour (inn), Chamois, Chandelles du Marboré, Chaos, the, Chapelle de Piétad, " de St. Antoine, " de St. Exupère, " de St. Roch, " de Solferino, Château de Beaucens, " de Despourrins, " de Géloz, " de Miramont, " de Ste. Marie, Chester, resemblance to, Cheval, Madame, Chinaougue, Church of Montauban, " Notre Dame, Arreau, " Notre Dame, Lourdes, " Piétat, " St. Jacques, Pau, " St. Martin, Pau, " St. Savin, Argelès, " St. Vincent, Bigorre, " Sazos, " Soulom, Chute de Lapaca, " la Pique, Cier de Luchon, Cierp, Cirque de Gavarnie, " Troumouse, Clérical sensation, Coarraze, Coffre d'Ossau, Col d'Arbéousse, " d'Aspin, " d'Aubiste, " de Bué " d'Estom Soubiran, " de Gourzy, " de Marie Blanque, " de Peyresourde, " de Portillon, " de Riou, " de Tortes, " de Tourmalet, Columbine (_aquilegia_), Confirmation at Cauterets, Coteaux, the (Pau), Cottin, Madame, Coumélie (mountain), Couradilles, the, Coustous, the, " music on the, Cowslips, Crabé (bridge), Crabioules, glacier of, Crêre d'Ordincède, "Crocodile of St. Bertrand, " the, Croix de Manse, " de Mouguère, "Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers, " the, Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), Cylindre (du Marboré), D. 

Dax, " baths of, " hotels at, Daffodils, Dangerous footing, Dear travelling, Dog-fancier, an excited, Dragon's-mouth Rock, E. 

Eaux Bonnes, 178; " bathing establishment of, " cascade of, " excursions from, Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, Eaux Chaudes, baths at, excursions from, grotto of, hotels at, Echez, basin of, Echo, wonderful, English Church (Bigorre), Entécade, peak, Espelette, Esplanade des Oeufs, Esquiez, Esterre, "Exhortation to the First Snow, "

F. 

Fashion on a donkey, Fausse Brèche (Gavarnie), Feather moss, Females, importunate, Fête de Payole, Flight of lizards, Fontaine de Marnières (Pau)Fos, French sportsmen (Pau), Fuenterabia (_Fr_. Fontarabie), G. 

Gabas, Gabrielle d'Estrelle, Gan, Garin, Garonne, river, valley of, Gavarnie, Cirque of, hotels of, Port de, Gave d'Azun, Gave de Barèges, Gave de Bastan, Cauterets, Gavarnie, Héas, Lutour, Marcadau, d'Ossau, de Pau, Gazost-les-Bains, Gèdre, excursions from, grotto of, Géloos, CastelGélos, General information, Appendix D, Gentians, Gerde, Géruzet's marble works, Ges, Glacier de Crabioules, Gorge de Bacheviron, Cauterets, du Hourat, Gouffre d'Enfer, Granges de Gouron, Grange de la Reine Hortense, Gripp, Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, Gèdre, Lourdes, the Néez, Grust (St. Sauveur), Guétary, "Guide's Auction, " the, H. 

Héas, inn, &c. , valley of, Hendaye, Hepaticas, Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), Herrère, stream, Hospice Civil (Bigorre) " de France (Luchon) " de Ste. Eugénie (Barèges)Hôtel d'Angleterre, Argelès " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes " Beau Séjour (Bigorre) " Canton, Luchon " de Comminges " d'España, Bosost " de France, Argelès " " Arreau " " Eaux Bonnes " " St. Sauveur " du Parc, Cauterets " de Paris, Biarritz " de la Poste, Payole " " Pierrefitte " des Pyrénées, Lourdes " " Louvie-Juzon " de l'Univers, Luz " des Voyageurs, GavarnieHoun BlanquoHourat, Gorge deHungry guardian, aHyacinths

I. 

"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau)Importunate femalesIrunItsatsouIzeste

J. 

Jaca, a"Jackdaw's Causerie"Jardin à l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) " Darralde " des Quinconces"Jay of Barèges, " the"Jeannette's Lamb, "JonquilsJurançon

L. 

Labassère, a waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre)La Brune (Cauterets)La Casque du MarboréLac Bleu " d'Estibaoute " d'Estom " d'Estom Soubiran " de Gaube " Vert"Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed, " theLagas, fountain ofLamotheLapaca, Chute deLaressec, cascade of, Laruns church of inns atLassariou, cascade ofLa Tour du MarboréLèsLescar"Lesson of the Mountains, " theLime-works (Eaux Bonnes)_Linaria_Liverpool to BordeauxLizards, flight ofLlanberis Pass, resemblance toLondon to BordeauxLondon to ParisLoudervilleLourdes to Argelès " Bareges " Cauterets " Gavarnie " LuzLourdes to Pierrefitte, St. Sauveur, Lourdes, castle of, chapel of, church of, grotto of, hotels at, panorama of, Loures, inns of, Louron, valley of, Louvie-la-Haute, Louvie-Juzon, Louvie-Soubiron, Luchon (see Bagnères de Luchon)Lunch on the Bergons, Lutour, cascade of, valley of, Luz, hotels at, baths of, Lys, valley of, M. 

Marble Works, Géruzet's, Marboré, the, Cascade du, Chandelles du, Epaule du, La Casque du, La Tour du, "March of the Men of Garlic, " the, Marignac, Marion, Lake, Marnières, Fontaine de, Maucapéra, Mauléon-Barousse, Licharre, Médiabat, bridge of, Menu (Cauterets), (Payole), Mill conduits, Milord, a, Minvieille, Buvette de, Molitg, baths of, &c. , excursions from, hotels at, Monné, Bigorre, Cauterets, Rouge, Montagne de Brada, Mont Arrouye, Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic)Montauban, church of, cascade of, Mont Bédat, Ferrat, Montgaillard, Montrejeau, buffet of, Mont Ségu, Bosost, Morcenx, Mouguère (cross of), Mountain rhododendrons, violets, Mouriscot, Lake, Museum (Luchon), (Luz), N. 

Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), Narcissus, Nature's voice, Nay, Néez, grotto of the, stream, valley of, Négresse (station), Nestalas, Neste (river), Nethou, Pic de, New "diet of worms, " a, Nivelle (river), Noah's ark landscape, a, O. 

"Old world and the new, " the (Pau), Oloron, general information, hotels at, roads to, Oo, Open-air concert, Ordincède, Crète d', Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), Orphanage, church of, Orphéon, the, Orthez, Osmunda regalis (fern), Ossau, Gave d', Val d', Ourous, "Oxen's Appeal, " the, Oxslips, P. 

Paillole (see Payole)Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), Palais de Justice, Pau, Palomières de Gerde, Panorama of Lourdes, Panticosa, hotels at, Parc Beaumont, Pau, du Château, Pau, Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre, Paris to Bordeaux, Paris to Toulouse, Pasages, Pas de l'Echelle, Pas de l'Escalette, Pas de Roland, Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, Pau to Lourdes, Pau to Oloron, Pau, I, amusements at, castle of, drives, &c. , at, general information, history of, hotels of, Payole, en fête, 136Peasants and their ways, Peculiar teams, Peguère, the, Peña Blanca, Pêne de l'Heris, Pêne de Montarqué, Perpignan, Perpignan to Amélie, Perpignan to Molitg, Perpignan to Vernet, Perpignan, chief excursions from, hotels at, Peyrehorade, Peyresourde, Col de, Pic d'Antenac, Pic d'Arbizon, Pic d'Ardiden, Pic d'Arrens, Pic d'Aspé, Pic d'Astazou, Pic d'Aubiste, Pic d'Ayré, Pic de Bergons, Pic de Boum, Pic de Bugaret, Pic de Campbieil, Pic de Clarabide, Pic de Crabioules, Pic de Gabiétou, Pic de Gabizos, Pic de Gar, Pic de Gaube, Pic de Ger, Pic de Gourzy, Pic de Labassa, Pic du Lac Grand, Pic de Laruns de Lienz de Litouèse de Maladetta de Maucapéra du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic d'Arrens) du Midi de Bigorre du Midi d'Ossau du Milieu de la Mine de Montaigu (near Bigorre) de Montaigu (near Saint Sauveur) de Néouville de Néré de Néthou Rouge de Pailla de Pez de la Pique de Posets Poujastou Sacroux de Sarradets de Sauvegarde de Soulom de Villelongue de ViscosPicnicking (Pau)Pie de MarsPierrefitte; hotels at, road toPiétatPilgrimsPiméné, thePique, valley ofPitton de TournefortPlace Royale, Pau Ste. Eugénie, Biarritz "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine, "Plateau of the Bious-ArtiguesPoc (guide)_Polygala amara__Polygala rosea_Pont d'Arrougé de Benquès de Crabé de Desdouroucat d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) d'Enfer (near Luz) d'Espagne de la Hiladère de Lestelle de Nadie Napoléon de Pescadère de Ravi de Sia de Villelongue"Poor Pillicoddy, "Port de Gavarnie de Peyresourde (see Col de) de la Picade de VenasquePosets, the PeakPost-office (Luz)_Potentilla_PragnèresPreste-les-Bains; baths and hotels of, _Primula farinosa_Promenade Horizontale (Barèges) de l'ImpératricePuyooPyramide de PeyrelancePyrenean dogs prices of treatment of local terms translated, some, songs

Q. 

Quairat, PicQuatre Moulins de Sia

R. 

Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, _Ramondia pyrenaïca_Ravin d'ArailléRébénacRed tape"Riou, "Rioumaou, cascade of"Roads up again, "Rocks at BiarritzRue d'Enfer (Luchon) " de la Fontaine (Pau)

S. 

Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin " Béat " Bernard, statue of " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau " Bertrand de Comminges, " " " " cathedral of " " " " cloisters of " " " " history ofSt. Christau, " " hotels at " Etienne Jacques Church (Pau) " Jean de Luz " " dogs of " " general information " Laurent de la Salanque " Mamet " " church of " Martin's Church (Pau) " Pé " Pée " Peter's statue (Lourdes) " PierreSt. Sauveur " " baths of " " excursions from " " hotels at " Savin " Vincent's Church (Bigorre)Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) " (near Oloron) " (near St. Laurent) " (near Saléchan) " baths ofSakurazawa, memories ofSaliesSaléchanSalluz (Argelès)Salut, avenue ofSan Sebastian " chief features of, " hotels atSarsaparillaSassis (St. Sauveur)Sazos (St. Sauveur)_Scabii_Sère (Luz)SerresSévignacSia " bridge of " Quatre Moulins deSidonie, cascade ofSilver beechesSiradan " valley ofSkeleton routes and railway informationSketching advice " with a donkey-cartSnowSome Pyrenean local terms translatedSongs, PyreneanSoulomSoulom, Pic deSoum de SecugnacSour grapes (Pau)Sourde, valley ofSpanish mules and peasantsSport, French"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie)Superbagnères view fromSwine-feeding

T. 

Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers of centimetres and inches of grammes and ounces of kilometres and miles of litres and pints of metres and feetTaillon, theTapêre (stream)Tarbes roadTemplars' church at Luz"The Abbé's Song""The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"The Bishop's arrivalThe Chaos"The Crocodile of St. Bertrand"The Couradilles"The Guide's Auction""The Jackdaw's Causerie""The Jay of Barèges""The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed""The Lesson of the Mountains""The March of the Men of Garlic""The Organ's Tale""The Oxen's Appeal""The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine""The Three Cormorants"The "witch of the hills""Three Cormorants, " theTorrent of BugaretToulouse to Perpignan road toTour des Lacs (Biarritz)Tour de la Monnaie (Pau)Tourmalet, Col deTrained vinesTramesaïguesTravellers' troublesTroumouse, Cirque ofTrous d'EnferTuc de Maupas

U. 

UrrugneUstaritz

V. 

ValcabrèreVal d'OssauValentin (river)Vallée d'Aran d'Arboust d'Argelès d'Aspe d'Aure de Barèges de Barousse de Broussette de Campan de Garonne de Héas de l'Hospice de Lesponne de Lienz de Louron de Luchon history ofVallée du Lutour de Luz du Lys de Marcadau du Néez de la Pique de Séoube de Serris de Siradan de Sourde (or Soude)Valley of the Ten Thousand Rocks (Amoy)Venasque Port deVernet-les-Bains baths of excursions from hotels atVia Crucis (Bétharram)Viella (near Barèges) (near St. Béat)VieuzacVignemale, Pic deVillelongue Pic deVillenaveVines trained by the roadsideViolets

W. 

Washerwomen and their gampsWonderful echoWood anemones

Y. 

Yankee tale, a

Z. 

Zinc mines