THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE

Cucumber and Melon;

IN A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS

FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED IN BRINGING THEM TO

_A COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION_. 

 * * * * *

BY

THOMAS WATKINS, _Many Years Foreman with Mr. Grange, of Hackney, and now with W. Knight, Esq. Highbury Park. _

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LONDON:

PUBLISHED BY HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET;

AND SOLD BY GRANGE AND DULLY, FRUITERERS, COVENT GARDEN; MASON AND SON, SEEDSMEN, FLEET STREET; WARNER AND CO. SEEDSMEN, CORNHILL; GARRAWAY, NURSERY AND SEEDSMAN, NEAR MARYLAND POINT, STRATFORD, ESSEX; AND BY THEAUTHOR, AT HIGHBURY. 

1824. 

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PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN. 

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THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE

Cucumber and Melon. 

ADVERTISEMENT. 

The author begs to inform the purchasers of this work, that it wasoriginally his intention to have given an engraving of the particulardescription of cucumber and melon, which he has been so successful inbringing to a state of perfection; and, in fact, a plate was executed, at a considerable expense, for that purpose. Finding, however, thatalthough accurate in its representation of _fine_ fruit, it did notpourtray the difference, nor convey the precise idea of those qualitieswhich constitute the superiority of the author's; and aware that suchwould have been obvious to every experienced gardener, the design wasnecessarily abandoned, trusting, that as it was merely intended for anembellishment, its deficiency will not render the work less valuable tothe profession. 

CONTENTS. 

The Cucumber Seed-bed for October Page 1

The Fruiting Frame for early Plants 14

The Seed-bed for January 43

On the Culture of the late Cucumber 46

On the Hand-glass Cucumber 51

Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and late Cucumbers 59

On the Culture of early and late Melons 65

Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto 83

Preface. 

Having, when young, imbibed a particular inclination to study theculture of the cucumber and melon, under the direction of my father, whose character as an early framer was in high repute, I assiduouslytried every experiment which was calculated to improve upon his system, by bringing them to a more complete state of perfection. 

In marking the progress of their growth, I usually committed to writingthose plans which I had found to have been productive of beneficialeffects. The result of these remarks has proved the compilation of thefollowing treatise, undertaken at the request of severalhorticulturists, who have expressed their desire to become acquaintedwith the process of my mode of cultivation. 

Considering it superfluous to enlarge this work by unnecessary orcontroversial observations, I have confined myself entirely to thosedirections, upon which I have uniformly acted; and have endeavoured toreduce them into as plain and simple a form as possible; at the sametime observing to omit nothing which can be of utility in this difficultand hitherto imperfectly understood branch of horticulture. 

Several gardeners, who are now very eminent in their profession, haveplaced themselves under my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectlysatisfied that the instruction they received, was fully adequate to thecompensation required; and perfectly convinced them of the superiorityof my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, that the advice given tosuch practitioners is contained in the following directions. 

My principal object in the different experiments I have tried, hasalways been to discover an easy, as well as a certain method of maturingthese delicate plants, and, in consequence, have avoided, as much aspossible, any artificial means that might be attended with difficulty orexpense. 

The only writer I know upon this subject, with the exception ofAbercrombie, whose system is now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phail, gardener to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published a treatise in theyear 1795, in which he strenuously recommends brick pits for cucumbersand melons, as far superior to the dung bed. It will be obvious, however, to every person who has perused that work, that the plan wasadopted merely through deficiency of knowledge in the proper managementof the dung bed; for Mr. M'Phail asserts, that upon first attempting toproduce early cucumbers in Lord Hawkesbury's garden, he completelyfailed, and was, in consequence, induced to apply to some horticulturistin the neighbourhood, to whom he paid a gratuity of five guineas for hisinstruction. The principal thing he appears to have been taught, was tokeep the burning heat of the dung about the roots of the plants down bythe continual application of water into the bed; which, however, hefound insufficient to preserve them in a thriving state, throughout thewinter months. This caused him to assert that it was out of the power ofany person to keep a dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable torear them at that time of the year. To this I have only to observe, thatthe following directions will prove a contradiction; for if they arestrictly attended to, no fear need be entertained of their vigorousgrowth, either from the premature season, or the inclemency of theweather. 

In December and January, although their health is certain, I must allowthat they do not grow so fast as in other months; and this is theparticular time when difficulty is experienced by those who areunacquainted with the proper means to be adopted, although, perhaps, their efforts may have been attended with far more trouble than therules here prescribed. 

The dung bed is certainly of the greatest importance both in the cultureof the cucumber and melon; and want of knowledge in the management isgenerally the cause of the loss of the plants in the winter season, bythe settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which cannot be removedwithout assistance from the sun: particular attention, therefore, to thedirections given upon that point is highly necessary; indeed, it cannotbe too strongly impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that uponthis greatly depends the success of his endeavours to mature them to anydegree of perfection. 

In the remarks upon preserving the plants from a cold moisture, in themost inclement weather, I have called to assistance what may betechnically termed an artificial sun; and as this most material pointmay be perfectly understood I shall here describe it more particularly. 

Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly the top of the box with hay, straw, or any kind of sweet litter; observing that hay, howeverdamaged, is certainly preferable; this will have the desired effect inpromoting a top heat, and obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, inkeeping the plants perfectly dry. 

To those who are unacquainted with the management of a dung bed, a brickone certainly appears more advantageous, in being attended with lesstrouble to the horticulturist, though infinitely with more expense, bothin the building and consumption of dung: this, however, is a mistakenidea, for nothing certainly can be more congenial to the growth ofeither the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat: this essentialrequisite, which may always be obtained by the process hereafterdescribed, can be but partially promoted in brick pits; for althoughwater, in its necessary application, may create a steam heat, it soonevaporates; and the heat of the linings having to pass through thebricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite incapable of affording anynourishment to the plants. 

The limited space in which the plants are confined in their growth bybrick pits, is also a very great objection to this mode of culture. Thatthey derive their chief support from the extremity of the roots must beobvious to every one, and if these are concentred in the middle of thebed, and thereby rendered incapable of expanding over the flues as inthe dung bed, they must be certainly deprived of that vigour which isnatural to them from a free and uninterrupted growth, and where theyexperience the whole of the benefit that can arise from the bed in whichthey are placed. In short, the dung bed in so many instances is superiorto brick pits, that competition in the culture of either the cucumber ormelon by the latter plan would be entirely useless; for whether in thevigour of the plants, quickness of growth, or production of fine fruit, the dung bed, systematically attended to, as described in this treatise, will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive means are not alwaysattended with the most beneficial results. 

In the following directions, the first thing I have taken notice of, isthe early cucumber, as being the most difficult, and consequently themost particular in its process of culture. Strict attention andperseverance in the method prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to acomplete state of perfection within the time limited. 

Secondly--The necessary directions will be found for promoting thegrowth of such cucumbers as are sown in January. It is here necessary toobserve, that this is the most preferable season for those which arenot required so very early; as the increasing temperature of the weatherin the course of their growth, affords facility for their being maturedwith a greater degree of strength. 

Thirdly--The method of bringing to perfection the late frame, or springsown cucumber. The directions upon this head will be found extremelyuseful, both to young practitioners, and those who are not professedhorticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate their own gardens, and aredesirous of possessing a cucumber bed, will find the information heregiven of great utility. 

Fourthly--In treating upon the process necessary for the management ofthe hand-glass cucumber in the summer months, I have offered an improvedsystem, which will be found of considerable importance to gardeners ingeneral in enhancing the value of their fruit, by rendering it muchsuperior to that produced by the common method. 

The directions I have given with regard to the melon, will be found toexplode all that difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined existsin the production of this choice fruit. The description given of mymethod of culture, will at once evince the simplicity of its process, and show the certainty of its result. 

Having explained the motives which induced me to undertake this work, Ihave only to observe, that the system has been productive of greatadvantage to myself, in enabling me to supersede my contemporaries inseveral annual shows, by obtaining the prize; and, to render thiseffective to every person, the principal thing required, as beforementioned, is attention and perseverance in the rules prescribed; andthose who adopt them will, I am confident, acknowledge their utility, and be sensible of the benefits that must eventually arise from apractical improvement in this particular branch of horticulture. 

THOMAS WATKINS. 

Highbury Park, January 30, 1824. 

THE ART OF PROMOTING THE GROWTH OF THE

Cucumber and Melon. 

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ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 

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THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER:

_To be sown from the 10th to the 20th of the Month. _

One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows-full, will be sufficient for aone-light box, and let it be put together at least three weeks beforemaking the bed, in a round or square heap, being particular in welltreading it down. If the dung is dry, it will be necessary to give itsome water; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. Let it lay inthis state a week, and then turn it, shaking the outsides of the heapinto the middle, and give it some more water. In doing this, it isrequisite that the heap should be well shook to pieces, and trod down. Let it lay another week, at the expiration of which, observe the samedirections as before given, applying the quantity of water in proportionto the dry nature of the dung. At the end of the third week, it will bein a proper condition to make use of, as by that time it will besufficiently moist and hot, the necessary state in which it should be, before the formation of the bed. 

As much depends upon the nature of the dung, and its proper condition, great attention should be paid, and some judgment exercised in the meansbest calculated to prepare it for a state of fermentation. The mostcertain method that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a beneficialresult is, in the summer months, to pack the dung you intend to make useof for the October seed-bed as close together as possible, taking careto keep it dry, that it may retain its virtue. This sort of dung is farpreferable to that newly made, being less rank and not so liable toburn; and when under a state of preparation, by turning and moistening, as before described, it will be in a much better condition than any thatcan be fresh procured. [1]

Before forming the bed, let the bottom be made in the followingmanner:--Raise the ground about six inches above the level with roadsand or mould, upon the top of which place some fagots, or other kind ofwood, to the height of a foot, in order that the bed may be welldrained. If there is an insufficiency of dung, you can add a foot of dryrubbish, such as strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose stuff. Let the bottom be extended nine inches wider than the frame you intendto make use of, the height of the bed being at the back four feet, andin the front, three feet nine inches. Beat it well down with a fork;then put the box on, and fill it three parts full with the shovellingsof the dung that is left; after which, place on the light, and let it beclose shut down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, admit air byopening the frame about an inch: when it increases, so as to become veryhot, admit more air, by extending the aperture to two inches. It mustremain in this situation about a week; then fork it up above a footdeep, and if caked together, or in the least dry, give it more water. From two to four pots is generally sufficient; but the quantity must beregulated by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to observe, thatmoisture is of most important consequence to the seed-bed, and nothingis so well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from impurity as water. 

In two or three days after forking up, it will be necessary to take offthe box and light, for the purpose of making the bed even. In doingthis, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, and shake it to pieces;then put on the box again, and give the light one or two inches of air, according to the temperature of the weather. 

It will now be necessary to wrap up the bed with straw, pea-halm, orhay, about eighteen inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in graduallyto a foot wide, within three inches of the top of the box. 

In three or four days stir up the bed in the same manner as before, observing that if it be in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat, to give it three or more pots of water, as shall seem necessary. It mustbe stirred up again in three or four days, and beat down gently with afork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the old tan or mould inwhich the seed is to be deposited. 

A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or three weeks before the seedis attempted to be sown; as many evil consequences are to be apprehendedfrom sowing it before, from the firing of the bed, or the impure natureof the dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the plants will notbe brought to that degree of perfection, as might reasonably be expectedfrom a bed in its proper heat and condition. [2]

After the bed has been laid and dealt with according to the foregoingdirections, spread two barrows-full of old tan or light mould all overthe surface, having it a little deeper in the middle than at the sides. Old tan is certainly more preferable than mould, though either willanswer the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day before the seedis sown, and cover the bed up with a single mat at night, taking care toshut it down until the morning, that the heat may be properly drawn up. Take some forty-eight size pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould witha sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. The sifting mould to afine degree is an error too prevalent in horticulture, and oughtparticularly to be avoided, from its great tendency to bind. 

It is very requisite that a cucumber should have a good digestion, andin order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes atthe bottom of the pots with broken pieces; then strew a little of therough siftings of the mould over it, and fill them up within half aninch of the brim with the prepared mould and sand. Shake it down alittle, and sow the seed[3] from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, justcovering it with a little mould; then give it a small quantity of water, which for the first time may be cold, but great care must be taken inthe subsequent waterings, that it be chilled to about the warmth of newmilk. 

The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the bed up to the rim, and givethem about half an inch of air. At night they must be covered with asingle mat, taking care to turn it up at at the back, that the steam maypass freely from the bed. Let the air be continued both night and day. 

After the seed has been sown three days, it will be up, when the potsmust be unplunged, placed on the surface, and some water given to them. They will now require upwards of an inch of air, both night and day, which will cause the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and preventtheir drawing. In about three days give them some more water in themorning, and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon. 

Plants should be always potted off when young, as they strike morefreely in the pots; and, in doing this, the following directions shouldbe attended to. 

Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day before potting off, and letit be of the same description as that in which the seed was sown. If thepots are old and dirty, wash them, and be careful in having themproperly dried before they are made use of. Take some old rotten turf, or a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, and place a smallquantity over the tile at the bottom of every pot; then fill them aboutone-third full, put three plants in each, and cover the roots about aninch. The pots must not be plunged, but placed on the surface, and somewater given them with a fine rose. 

It is necessary to have a small pot on purpose to water the plants, which will contain about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, whichis much better calculated to water the plants regularly than a spreadingone. 

Be particular in watering them regular, which will be requisite everytwo or three days, for the space of three weeks or a month at latest, when they will be in a proper condition to ridge out. 

After the plants have been potted three days, add a little mould tothem, and repeat it every two or three days, for about a fortnight, until the pot is quite filled. Much attention should be paid to thismethod of putting in the mould, which experience has convinced theauthor is far superior to the usual practice of filling the pots in thefirst instance up to the seed-leaves of the plants. By the gradual modeof filling, the plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain in itsgrowth of being dwarfish and strong, which cannot be insured by thecommon method, as it tends considerably to weaken the plant, and rendersit very liable to fog off, before taking root. By potting them low, andonly just covering the roots at first, the stems of the plants becomehardened, and strike very freely upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumberalways decay when forced with a strong bottom heat. 

It will be necessary, after the plants have been potted about a week, to examine the bed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there is anyfire heat. If such should be found to be the case, and the directions asbefore given with regard to moisture have been strictly attended to, itcan only exist in the tan, which must immediately be supplied withwater, and, the day following, stirred well up together and levelled, placing the pots upon the surface. In another week again examine thebed, and if any fire heat still remains, attend to it as above; if not, stir up the tan, and plunge the pots about half way down; being, however, guided in this by the temperature of the bed, as plants sown inOctober do not require so much heat as those in the three followingmonths. 

Observe, when the plants have been potted two or three days, to stir themould in the pots, round the plants, and likewise the tan, with asharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to freshen the plants, andprevent any thing of a mouldy nature from injuring them. 

As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, top them, by taking outthe break that appears next, which may be easily done with the thumb andfinger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little more than a fortnight, theywill be in a fit state to top down; and in three weeks from the time ofsowing, ready to ridge out. 

At this time of the year, the bed will not require any lining; butobserve, that as the wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increaseit, pressing it down close to the box, and keeping it within one-thirdof the top. 

If the plants are not ridged out when three weeks old, plunge them up tothe rim, until the fruiting frame is ready for their reception, whichought to be at the latest when they are a month or five weeks old. If itshould happen, however, that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by nomeans ridge them out until it is in a proper condition. After they are amonth old, increase the lining at the back and front, about four or fivebarrows-full each, applying it in the following manner:--Remove thewrapping down to the bottom, and extend the dung to the width of twofeet, and three parts as high as the bed; drawing it in to abouteighteen inches at the top. Cover the lining with the litter four incheswide from the bottom, and three parts as high as the box, beingparticularly careful in stopping up the inside, by pressing the tanclose to the box, about three inches above the bottom. As the liningsinks, add a little wrapping to the top, formed of hay, or old litterthat is quite sweet. 

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its virtue fromsix to nine months. 

[2] The heat required in October sown plants, while growing in theseed-bed, is from sixty-five to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit'sthermometer. Should that temperature be exceeded in this season, theywill draw up very long: but after being ridged out, more heat willbecome necessary; that is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees: andthe same is to be observed with young plants raised in the threefollowing months. 

[3] Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is three orfour years old, imagining that new will grow too vigorous, and not showfruit or set so well; but in this they are much mistaken, the Authorknowing, from experience, that new seed, or at least not more than twoyears old, is the best calculated for bringing to perfection both thecucumber and melon; possessing the advantage of a greater freedom ingrowth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old seed. 

THE FRUITING FRAME, _For Plants sown in October, November, December, and January. _

Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a three-light box, and thesame in proportion to the number you intend to make use of. Let it beput together a fortnight before the seed is sown; be very particular ingiving it plenty of water, and pack it close together. After it has laida week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with water. Let it continue inthis state another week, when the same directions as before given mustbe observed; and, in a week more, the bed will be in a fit condition tomake up. 

The bottom must be prepared in the same manner as directed for theseed-bed; then form the bed of dung four feet three inches at the back, by four feet in the front, allowing for a cavity of about ten inchesbetween each box; then place the boxes on, and put the shovellingsinside, in the proportion of two or three barrows-full to a light. Informing the bed, it is the best plan to make it in layers of about afoot each, which will cause the dung to be much better mixed, than ifall finished at first, of an equal height. Be very particular inseparating the dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards beating itwell down with a fork. 

After the bed has been thus prepared, put the lights on, and shut themdown close until the heat begins to rise. When such is the case, givethem about an inch of air; and in three or four days wrap the bed allround with dry litter or useless hay, eighteen inches wide from thebottom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the bed, which willgreatly tend to promote a regular heat. As the careful wrapping up ofthe bed is an essential requisite, means must be taken to keep it close, and protect it from any injury that may arise in consequence oftempestuous weather, this may be accomplished by means of sharp-pointedsticks, with hooks in the form of a peg, and about the size and lengthof a broom-stick. Thrust these through the litter into the bed, abouthalf way up, one to each light, at the back and front, and two at eachend. 

After the bed has been made about a week or ten days, take off the boxesand lights, in order to level it, and let it have from four to sixinches fall from the back to the front; in this, however, you must be insome degree guided by the form of the boxes, which it is necessaryshould have a good fall, that the plants may derive benefit from thesun; then fork up the bed about a foot deep, and again place on theboxes and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both night and day. In about four or five days it will be necessary to again fork it up, andgive it some water, in the proportion of two pots to a light. This mustbe repeated every two or three days, until the bed is perfectly sweet, which is usually the case in three or four weeks, applying water duringthat time, according to the state of the bed. 

When you find that the bed is properly purified, put in the sifted leafmould. A three-light box will require a large barrow-full; the quantityfor a one-light being about four shovels. After this, add to thewrapping some sweet litter or hay, increasing it to nearly the top ofthe boxes, and apply about two pots of water to each of the cavities, taking care to fill them up to nearly the tops of the boxes, with shortsweet mulshy litter. This is a point but very little known, yet of thegreatest importance in the culture of cucumbers; for when the weatherbegins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and the boxes are placedclose together, in the usual manner, the outsides are very liable tobecome damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is certain of doing theplants material injury. 

Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three-light box, and at nightadmit nearly two inches of air, covering them with a single mat; and ifon the following day the plants look well, they may be safely ridgedout. 

It is requisite that both the boxes and lights should be painted everyyear, at least a month before they are wanted for use; but if thiscannot be conveniently done, be particular in washing them with boilingwater, in which some unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in somemeasure answer the purpose of paint in effectually destroying thevermin, or the eggs which may have been deposited in the crevices of thewood. 

After the plants are ridged out, wash them every morning, on theoutside, and about once a week in the inside, which will tend to reflectthe light, and cause them to thrive much better. When you wash theoutside, push them down about two or three inches, which will preventthe water from perishing the lining at the side of the boxes. If theplants have received no injury, and are able to bear the heat of thebed, ridge them out, letting the hills be about nine inches high, covering the roots about an inch round, and being an inch higher thanthey were when in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, rake it withthe hand all over the bed; then water the plants, taking care, at thesame time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the surface. Close themdown for the space of ten minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If theweather is mild, in an hour it may be increased to two inches, and asingle mat only will be requisite at night. If, however, the weather iswindy, cover them at night with a double mat, or a single one and alittle hay. 

Be very particular in allowing them plenty of air, especially of anight, taking care, however, to regulate this by the temperature of theweather. If there is much wind, they will of course require less air;but, at all events, it is better to give too much than otherwise, moreparticularly at the first ridging out, as the weather at this seasonbeing frequently subject to sudden changes, which, should it occur inthe night, and the plants are too confined, or the least ranknessexisting in the bed, they are sure to experience material injury, which, at this time of year, it is very improbable they will ever recover; or, if with extreme difficulty, they should be brought round, they can neverbe expected to grow to any degree of perfection. 

Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to the depth of about nineinches, with a hand-fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, immediatelygive water to the part affected, that being the only effectual remedythat can be applied. Be careful in forking close to the bottom of thehills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in this place, boreseveral holes at the bottom of the hills, and apply plenty of water. 

Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or eight inches long, for thepurpose of stirring the mould round the plants, in a similar manner tohoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much refresh the plants, andshould be attended to while they are young, for at least two months theday after they have been watered. 

As soon as the roots begin to be visible through the hills, add threeshovels-full of unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being verycareful not to mould too freely, until the beginning of February, as theplants from the middle of December to the middle of January, lie in adormant state; consequently, too large a quantity of mould at thisseason, will be attended with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, andpreventing the heat of the bed rising in a free and proper manner. 

This being the season when plants are most exposed to injury, and arefrequently lost, great care and attention is necessary for theirpreservation from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the linings wellup, and giving a good top covering. If the weather is intense, they willrequire eight or nine inches covering of hay, and water only once aweek. 

As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have dung in for a lining, which should always be put in the front and sides first. When the dunghas been put together a week, turn it, and at the end of another itwill be fit for use; one load being sufficient for a three-light box. After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three weeks at thefarthest, it will be necessary to line the bed to the width of about twofeet, and three parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope ofabout six inches towards the top. When the dung has been put about halfway up, tread it, and then add the remainder, beating it well down witha fork. Cover the lining with litter about three or four inches thick atthe outside, and within one or two inches of the top of the box; thenplace a board at the top about nine inches wide, which will keep itclose, and assist in drawing up the heat. Be particularly careful instopping the inside next to the box, when you make a fresh lining, andbeat it close down with the hand about two or three inches above thebottom. 

When a fresh lining has been added, have the dung in readiness for theback, which will be required about a fortnight afterwards. It should beformed about two feet six inches wide, well trod down, and wrapped up inthe same manner as the front, within three inches of the top of thebox. Be careful that the litter is not rank; old useless hay, or litterthat has been some time laying by, will be preferable. The samedirections must be attended to in stopping up the inside of the box, aswith the front. 

As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree affects the bed, and youdiscover that the inside, where it has been stopped, begins to get dry, give it some water in the evening, just before covering up, for about aweek or ten days, which will be the means of keeping the rankness down, and causing a sweet steam heat to rise. 

As the lining settles, press it down with a spade next the box, and addmore litter upon the top, which should be done every other day, observing that when you increase one lining to have the dung inreadiness for the next; each lining not being calculated to last morethan a month or five weeks; though the back one will not want renewingquite so often as the front. When you apply the second front lining, itwill be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake or mop-stick, making five holes to a three-light box; that is, one under each hill, and two under the bars: bore them straight rather better than half wayup the bed, so that when the second back lining is applied, holes may bebored exactly opposite to the others. This will cause a free circulationof the heat from one lining to the other, and prove not only of greatservice in regulating the temperature of the bed, but of equal advantagein draining off the surplus water. Take care when you add a freshlining, to keep the holes open. 

As the linings draw the boxes down, they will require rising with boardsand bricks. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to providesome small pieces of board, rather larger than a brick, placing one ofeach, with a brick, under the corners of the boxes; and, as the bedsettles, increase the number of bricks. When you raise the boxes, stopup the bed with rotten moist dung, and close up the inside about two orthree inches above the bottom of the box. 

The plants should be always topped when young, at the first joint, asbefore directed; then let them run two joints twice following;[4]afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, except it be blind, which may be easily ascertained by close examination; if you find suchto be the case, let it run another joint before it is topped. 

It is necessary that the plants should be continued in leaf mould untilthe middle of January, as there is no other in which they will thrive sowell at that season of the year. Their peculiar and tender nature bearsa strong resemblance to young children, in the care requisite for theirnurture and growth. They require light nourishment, that will easilydigest; and no soil is so well calculated for this purpose asleaf-mould, mixed with a little grit; from its excellent properties inabsorbing the water. 

In ridging out the plants, one thing must be attended to in thepreparation of the bed, which has not been before mentioned. Hollow thebed out to the depth of about four inches in the middle, so that if theweather is cold or windy, the dung may be pulled down half way up thehills, when it will be nearly level about the bed; but as soon as theweather becomes mild, it must be drawn away again, or otherwise the heatwill be too violent for the roots. As mould is added to the roots, drawthe dung away level with the bottom of the hill; then put it half way upagain, being, however, regulated in this by the heat of the bed, and thetemperature of the weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts ofthe bed, take the dung out which has been placed round them, and levelit with nearly the bottom of the box, leaving three or four inchesround the sides to keep out the rankness from the linings, as beforedirected. 

In covering up the plants, a single mat will be sufficient, until theyhave been ridged out a fortnight, unless the weather is windy or verycold; in such case, make use of a double mat or a little hay; becareful, at the same time, not to give them too much covering at first, as it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow very weak; in this, however, you must be in some degree guided by the heat of the bed, andthe temperature of the weather. When there is a good heat, and theweather is still, they will require less; but if there is much wind, orthe air is very cold, it must of course be increased. It seldom occursthat plants require much covering until a fortnight before Christmas, when it will be found necessary, if the weather is moderate, to coverthem from four to six inches. Instances have occurred, when the authorhas been obliged to increase the covering to a foot in thickness, fromthe intense cold; but this, however, is seldom the case; and from fourto six inches may generally be considered sufficient from December toApril. As the sun increases, and the nights become milder, reduce thecovering to three or four inches, until May; from whence to June asingle mat, or a little hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weatheris now seasonable, and the nights warm, they will not require anycovering, but should this not be the case, it is better to continue iteven until Midsummer. 

Take particular care when covering up, after a fresh lining has been putto the bed, that the mats or hay does not hang over the lights for atleast a fortnight, as such will draw the rank steam into the bed, andkill the plants. 

The linings should be continued until the weather is fine and settled, which may be expected in the middle of May; but should the weather becold and unfavourable, it may be necessary to retain them until themiddle of June. 

In about the third week of the month of January, the plants willrequire stronger food; and half bog and half leaf mould may be applied. Should there be a difficulty in obtaining bog earth, procure the topspit of light meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at the least, six months before it is wanted for use. When you mould towards theoutside, it may be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf mould, inthe proportion of one-fourth, with bog or light meadow earth; observing, however, not to mould up the plants level until some time after fruithas been cut. The beginning of March is the proper time to mould upfull. 

Let a cavity be left at the back and front of the box of about twoinches, to prevent the roots from being injured on the outside of thebox by the linings; and to cause the heat to rise freely from the bed. 

It is very necessary that the plants should be kept thin of vine, asbeing material in the growth of fine fruit; and as they extend towardsthe outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run more than one jointat a time. 

Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the oldest first, in order thatthey may stand single, and not one over the other; to accomplish whichit will be necessary to peg them out. When taking off the leaves, cutthem close to the vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot andinjure the plants. When they are laid, be particular in having theplants down close to the mould, as early as possible, in order that theymay strike root; at the same time being careful not to bury the vine. Indoing this, place a little mould round the side of the vine first, leaving the top uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the rootsbegin to strike. When such is the case, cover the vine all over, andthen you may continue laying within one joint of the extremity. 

It is here necessary to observe, that very few are acquainted with theadvantages that may be derived from laying the plants in a propermanner. Many even, who are in the habit of observing this method, practice it so slightly, that little if any benefit results from it; andby far the greatest number of horticulturists take no notice of itwhatever. Laying is certainly a most material point in the culture ofthe early cucumber; and it is impossible to ensure a good crop without astrict attention to it: in fact, the Author principally attributes hissuccess in the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care in thisparticular. It should be done every fortnight or three weeks after theplants have come into bearing; and, if continued in a regular manner, good fruit may be obtained until October. Some imagine that October sownplants will soon be worn out, after producing a few cucumbers early; butthis is a mistaken idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, theywill bear good fruit equally as long as any young plants sown in thespring. Leaf-mould, mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing tolay them in until the latter end of March, when you may add a strongersoil, composed of one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed withbog or light meadow earth. 

Soft water is essentially necessary for the plants, as hard is almostcertain of producing the canker, unless particular means are adopted toprevent it. In some situations it may be impossible to obtain softwater; in such a case, let the water stand in a tub for at leasttwenty-four hours; if two or three days even it will be the better, asin that time it will be in some degree softened by the sun, and the rawcoldness expelled from it. 

After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps dung is an excellentthing to mix with the water, if used in a moderate manner. The followingproportion will be necessary:--To six pots of water put in the tub oneshovel-full of dung; let this be stirred up continually for the space oftwo or three days, and when wanted for use, it must be again wellstirred up. In watering with this mixture, be particular in having asmall thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it may be easily pouredunder the leaves. A gallon or six quarts will be a sufficient quantityfor one light, and in watering be careful that it is not sprinkled overthe leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed with the water, will be found verybeneficial to the plants, if used moderately, as too great a freedomwill tend to injure them. 

When the plants are first ridged out, they will require water everythird day, until about the middle of December; and when applied, it mustbe sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing to give a largerquantity where the heat seems most to prevail. In general more water isrequisite at the back than the front: unless there is much heat in thefront from the middle of December until the middle of January, once infive or six days will be sufficient to water the plants. Round the sideof the box, and at the back, however, should be watered every night, while there is much heat. About two or three quarts of water at eachtime to a light will be sufficient for the plants until the middle ofJanuary and from that time more will be necessary. In applying the wateryou must be guided in a great measure by the state of the weather. Takethe opportunity of watering when the sun is out, and then close themdown for about a quarter of an hour or more, according to the season ofthe year. At all times, before watering, admit double the usual quantityof air about a quarter of an hour previous to the application, for thepurpose of hardening the plants. 

Water may be applied at any time of the day, if the heat is good, butthe most preferable time is certainly about eleven o'clock in themorning, particularly as the season advances towards the months of Apriland May, and the weather becomes more temperate, and the sun has greaterpower. After they are watered, shut them down for about ten minutes or aquarter of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a clear sun; thenshade them with a mat for two or three hours, and shut the frame closedown, in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be produced, which willcause the fruit to swell very quick. At one or two o'clock take off themat and admit a little air. When the sun is clear and the weather hot, let them be shaded from eleven to two o'clock; some evergreen boughs orpea-sticks are very good things. 

Should the above directions be found inconvenient to attend to, thedifficulty may be obviated by adopting the following method. After theplants are watered in a morning, shut them down, for the space of aboutten minutes, then give them a little air; in about the same timeincrease it, and so gradually until the proper quantity is admitted. Thegradual admission of air is extremely important, and ought, therefore, to be particularly attended to. 

The frames should never be shut down too long in the morning of thespring and summer months; a little air should be given at eight o'clock, if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be necessary to increase it;afterwards attending to it according to the state of the weather. 

In order to produce fine fruit in the early part of the season, that isin February and March; let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep themale blossoms rubbed off when young, to prevent their weakening theplants; the best method of doing which is with a small pointed stick. 

As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave a few male blossoms toset the fruit with. If this be not attended to in the early part of theseason[5] the fruit will not swell off, as it is the female blossomalone that bears it, and if these be not impregnated with the male theywill prove unfruitful. The female flower may easily be distinguishedfrom the male, by the appearance of the fruit at the bottom of theblossom which the other does not possess. 

When the female flower is in full bloom, take a male blossom which is infull bloom also, and hold it in one hand, with the other split it down, and tear off the flowers, being careful at the same time not to injurethe male part; then hold the male blossom between the forefinger andthumb of the right hand, while the female flower is held between themiddle and forefinger of the left hand; then put the male blossom in thecentre of the female, and the farina will adhere to it, and have thedesired effect; should it, however, happen to fall out after it is done, it is of no consequence whatever, as the impregnation is received theinstant it is put in. 

The proper time to set the fruit is in the morning, as it always comesin bloom at night, and if left until the afternoon the blossom of thefruit closes a little, in consequence of which it is doubtful whetherfruition will be effected. 

In order to ascertain whether the male blossom is good; after you haveprepared it as above described for use, draw the farina, or genitals, across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave a glutinous substanceresembling gum. 

As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your finger let no more thanone be upon a plant at a time to swell off, and when beginning to growcrooked give the stalk end a twist, place them on their backs, put a pegto the side, and the heat of the bed will soon draw them down and makethem straight. 

A cucumber is a plant that requires much water, particularly whenbearing fruit: it will be necessary then to give from one to two gallonseach time according to the heat of the bed, and temperature of theweather. If the season is fine and the heat good they will require waterevery other day, but if the weather is dull, and the heat slack, be verycautious in applying the water lest they should get the canker, which isa dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be removed. The best thingin such a case is to give a strong heat, and be very moderate in theapplication of water. 

After the plants have been ridged out a fortnight it will be necessaryto shut them down in the afternoon, about an hour before they arecovered up. They will, however, require air in the night, generally tillthe fruit is cut, and even then if the weather is mild; for by beingkept close at night when there is a strong heat, the fruit is liable tochange colour and become of a yellow cast. 

The plants should be uncovered in a morning by eight o'clock, or nine atfarthest, in the winter, and six or seven as the season advances, unlessthe weather is very cold or windy, when they may remain an hour longerthan usual. 

Should the frame be infested with woodlice, place some cabbage-leaves ora small quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer the purpose of atrap to collect them, when they may be easily destroyed by boilingwater. Care, however, is necessary in this expedient, for should theplants have taken root at the side of the box, the hot water willmaterially injure them; but if the plants are kept healthy, littledanger is to be apprehended from this description of vermin, as theyalways like a sickly stagnated plant to a thriving vigorous one. Miceare sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be destroyed by procuringfrom a Chemist some ground ox vomicę, and applying it in the followingmanner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it up well, and let it boilabout ten minutes; take it off the fire and put in some wheat orcucumber seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours; or spread someox vomicę not boiled upon bread and fresh butter, place this in the bednear the holes at which they enter, which will effectually extirpatethem. 

With regard to the time of cutting fruit[6] from October sown plants, much depends upon the weather, some seasons being much finer thanothers. Fruit from the October seed has been cut off by the Author asearly as the middle of January, while at another time it has been aslate as the beginning of March; he, however, is well satisfied if it isready to cut by the middle of February: indeed, upon an average this maybe fairly considered as the probable time for its mature growth. 

It is not advisable in any young beginner to sow seed in November orDecember until about the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grownin that season are very liable to be retarded in their growth, whilethose sown from about the twentieth of December to the beginning ofJanuary will grow much stronger and quicker, as they possess theadvantage of the increase of the season. An experienced framer, however, can grow plants at any time of the year, and from those sown at theabove time, he may expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March ortowards the latter end of that month, according to the weather; muchdepending upon that and the situation of the framing grounds, whichshould at all times be open to the sun, and defended from the winds. 

FOOTNOTES:

[4] The Author would recommend January-sown plants, after having beentopped at the first joint, to run four joints, then topped again at thefirst joint, when they will generally show fruit, and, if properlyattended to, will swell off to seven or eight inches in length, as thefirst shows do not come so fine as those afterwards. Do not let morethan one fruit swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause them togrow ill-shaped, and not near so fine. 

[5] There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the latter end ofMay, as by that time the bees will find their way to the frames, andprove equally effective. 

[6] The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only makes use ofthree kinds of frame cucumber, which he considers preferable to all theothers. One is a long black prickly fruit, with a fine bloom and shorthandle, well filled up. It will sometimes grow for table to the lengthof fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to twelve. It is an excellentbearer, but not so well adapted for October sowing as the other twokinds, from its tender qualities, being thin leaved and less hardy: itis, however, a very good sort for January and spring sowing. The othertwo kinds very much resemble each other, and will frequently grow to thelength of twelve inches, filled up in the handle, black, prickly, andcarry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions are from eight to ten inches;being thick-leaved and particularly hardy. Both these are wellcalculated for the October bed, and excellent bearers for spring sowing. The Author obtained them both by impregnating; and those who purchasethe work of him, may be accommodated with a few of the seeds of eitherof the above, gratis. 

THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY. 

_To be sown in the beginning of the Month. _

As this is the season in which Gardeners in general sow seed forcucumbers, it will be necessary to take notice of a few directions whichvary from the October seed-bed. 

At this time of the year young plants are much slower in their growth, and more difficult to be reared than in October, consequently theyrequire a stronger bottom bed, though made in the same manner as abovedirected. The dung must undergo the same process in working, but shouldbe six inches higher; it will also require more wrapping and covering, particularly if the weather is very cold; in this, however, as before, you must be guided by the temperature of the season; taking care not tocover too much at first. For the first fortnight a double mat will besufficient; and after that, if the weather is intense, increase thecovering, by adding hay to the thickness of six or nine inches, with amat over it. Air should be admitted night and day, according to thestate of the weather; but they may be closed down for about an hour, before covering up, after they are a fortnight old. 

The plants should be ridged out young, at least when they are a monthold; but be very particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly sweetbefore they are placed in it, as it is much better to keep them in thepots a week, or even a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge themout before the bed is in a proper condition. 

Be careful in keeping a good heat; in having the lining applied inproper time; and in well wrapping them up. The lining will be requiredwhen they are three weeks old at the back and front. It should be twofeet wide about half way up the bed, and lined with litter to the widthof six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining in a propercondition: wrap it up also within three inches of the top, drawing it ingradually to about eighteen inches wide. With the exception of theforegoing directions, the method of treatment must be exactly the sameas given in the Seed-bed for October. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE

Late Cucumber. 

The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, that is, such as are grown inboxes and lights, and have no necessity for linings, is from the middleof March to the middle of April; and after that time seed may be put infor the hand-glass. 

Those that are sown in the middle of March will require stronger bedsthan those sown a fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should bemade from two feet six inches to three feet high; while the latter willnot require beds higher than two feet. 

Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep, and if the soil is light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may beformed of it; but if a strong loam it will not answer the purpose. 

As soon as the bed is made tread it down well, make it even, and let ithave about six inches fall from the back to the front; then place on theboxes and light; and when the heat rises, admit from one to two inchesof air. In about a week it will be necessary to put the mould in for thehills in the proportion of a barrow-full to a light. This must belevelled about an inch all over the bed to prevent the rank steam frominjuring the plants. On the following day they may be ridged out, whenthe mould must be pressed with the hands close down round the roots ofthe plants; and water applied, which should be at the same timesprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now plenty of air, night andday, until the bed becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the casein about a week; after which they may be shut down at night. 

Let the topping be the same as directed for the Seed-bed in October; ifthe soil is light and rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot oreighteen inches wide, and as high, or even higher than the bottom of thebox. This will prove a great support to the plants; be the means ofproducing an abundant crop of fruit; and obviate the necessity oflaying; which must otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, orthe boxes are unusually large. Should laying, however, be preferred, great attention must be paid to it, and the same method adopted asprescribed for the early cucumber. 

Particular care is requisite in the culture of the late cucumber topreserve it from the canker; the best means that can be adopted toprevent this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and always apply softwater. This should be given in the morning, or, if not then convenient, never later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when the vines willhave an opportunity of drying before night: a fine day should always betaken advantage of for this purpose, which will tend considerably toaccelerate their growth. Admit a double quantity of air for a quarterof an hour before watering; and while the nights continue cold, becareful in keeping them covered up. In some seasons, when the weather isinclement, it will be necessary to observe this even until Midsummer. 

By strict attention to the foregoing directions, no danger need beapprehended from the canker, as it generally proceeds from a cold chill;suffering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which keeps themcontinually moist; and not admitting a sufficient quantity of airnecessary to harden them. 

In ridging out the plants, put two in small lights and three in largerones; and when the roots appear through the hills, add mould to them;observing, that they will require moulding up much quicker than thosegrown at the early season: in fact, after they have been ridged outabout a fortnight or three weeks, it will be necessary to mould them upfully. 

If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons of water for each lightwill be necessary every two or three days. 

Keep them pegged and laid about once a fortnight; and be particular alsoin having them thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then allowingthem to run four, and afterwards topping them again at the first, asbefore mentioned in the January sown plants. By observing thesedirections, a good crop of fruit may be ensured, which will be ready tocut in about a month or five weeks after they have been ridged out. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF THE

Hand-glass Cucumber. 

The best time to sow for the hand-glass cucumber is from the middle ofApril to the beginning of May; though they may be sown from the tenth ofApril until the middle of May; and the plants may be grown in the earlycucumber or melon beds. 

When they are potted off, put three plants in each pot, being particularin not filling them more than three parts full, as they are very liableat this time of the year to draw up long in the stem. Merely cover theroots with mould at first; in the course of two or three days add alittle more; and in about a week fill up the pots to the brim. 

It is necessary to give them as much air as possible; and to have themplaced at the back of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. Theymust be well supplied with water, and let them be topped at the firstjoint. 

By this mode of treatment, you may have strong stuggy plants, fit to putunder the hand-glass in three weeks; at all events, they should not bekept in the pots longer than a month, as there is a probability, if thattime is exceeded, of their being stinted in the growth. 

The soil best calculated to ridge them out in, is a light rich earth. Ifthe soil is of a strong loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten dungto it, and mix it up well together. 

Dig a trench about a foot in depth, and three feet wide, and let the bedbe made up about a foot above the level, that is, two feet from thebottom of the trench; tread it down well, level it, and apply some waterif it is dry; then put the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, andeighteen inches wide on each side of the trench; afterwards put somedung or leaf mould on, and dig it in. Level the mould down, so that thebed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten inches deep, takingcare to leave it a little higher in the middle, where the dung isplaced, in order that the mould may not settle, and become lower in thecentre, which will have a tendency to injure the plants by absorbing thewater, which is most required at the outsides. 

It is an excellent plan, if the ground is disengaged two or three monthsprevious to the time it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it outsix feet wide, and put in six inches of dung or leaf mould, and lay itup in ridges of two feet six inches in width, and a foot in depth. Whenwanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench three feet wide for thedung, levelling it as before directed. This method, if it can beconveniently attended to, is certainly preferable to the other, as itallows an opportunity of incorporating the dung and mould together. Ifhot dung cannot be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, providedthe seed is not sown earlier than the month of May. 

Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, and when wanted for use, level it down; then mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three feetalleys; afterwards place the line to the middle of the ridge, and markout three feet six inches, which must be the distance from the centre ofeach glass. Take out two spadesful of the mould, level it on the ridge, and put one spadeful of light rich earth in its place, for the purposeof receiving the seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, take outone spadeful, making it round and hollow, about eight inches wide; thensow the seed from eight to twelve under each glass. If the mould is dry, apply water to the seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down close, observing as they become dry, to sprinkle them with water. 

After the seed has been up about a week, it will be necessary to thinthem out, in the proportion of six plants to each glass; and in the weekfollowing reduce them to three, which is the proper number to be growntogether finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, put some lightmould round the stems of the plants, which should be done at twodifferent times, allowing a week to elapse between each application, andfilling up the hollow that is left. 

As soon as they have made two rough leaves, top them at the secondjoint. This is a plan which may be adopted with success. Hot dung isalso of great advantage, as it will cause them to come into bearingnearly a month sooner than would otherwise be the case. 

After the plants have been topped, as above directed, let them run tosix joints, and then top them again, when they will show fruit, whichmay be topped at the first joint. If the hand-glasses are large, fruitwill be ready to cut very early. 

Be particular in not suffering them to run to too much vine; six jointsis quite sufficient at the first, and afterwards always keep them toppedat the first or second joint. By strict attention to this mode oftreatment, you may ensure a more abundant crop, and much finer fruit, than can be calculated upon from the usual method of suffering the vineto grow to a considerable length, which tends materially to weaken andexhaust the plant. 

Let them be kept under the glasses as long as possible, without dangerof injuring them, admitting a small quantity of air in the day-time, when the weather is warm, by means of a piece of wood, in the form of awedge, about seven inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about threeinches at the top. This will enable you to rise or fall the glassaccording to the quantity of air necessary to be admitted. 

Before placing the vine outside the glasses, it will be necessary toadmit a larger portion of air, both night and day, for three or fourdays, in order to harden the plants; then mulch the bed all over withlitter, which will cause the fruit to be kept clean, and the rootsmoist, an essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers. 

Though moisture is so extremely necessary, yet at all times in theapplication of water you must be regulated by the temperature of theseason. If the weather is hot and dry when they come into full bearing, from three to four gallons of water will be required to each glass everytwo or three days, if the soil is light, but if of a strong loamynature, less will be sufficient. 

Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and place four half bricks, that is, one to each corner, under the frame of the glass; or anothermethod may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south by means of apiece of stick, about the thickness of a broom-stick, a foot in length, with three notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the purpose ofresting the glass upon. This plan is far preferable to the former, inmaterially accelerating the growth of the fruit, by preventing toogreat a current of air; besides possessing the advantage of easieraccess to the plants, when there is a necessity for examining them. Itis, however, requisite when this method is adopted, that the ridgesshould always front the south. 

If the above directions are strictly attended to, and the season is inany degree favorable, a plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected. 

DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR

Early and Late Cucumbers. 

_Three-light Boxes for October sowing. _

The boxes should be made of good seasoned deal, one inch and a halfthick, ten feet seven inches long, four feet three inches wide, and onefoot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. Thebars to be three inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches inheight, and one slip at each end. The bars to be fluted on each side ofthe slips, with oak corners, five inches wide. 

The lights to be four feet three inches and a half long, three feet sixinches wide, and the back rail two inches and three quarters wide; thefront to be three inches, and the sides two inches and a half; withthree bars, rounded off to a point inside, three quarters of an inchwide. To be made of good seasoned deal, and to have horns both in theback and front. The squares must be formed of strong crown glass, leadedand cemented; let there be five in length, the one in front being fiveinches long. A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, under thelead of each light, which must also have iron handles. 

_One-light Box for October sowing. _

This must be in length four feet eight inches, three feet seven incheswide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in thefront. 

The lights to be half an inch longer than the box; and in all otherrespects the same as those before described. 

_For January sowing. _

The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, four feet eight inches wide, one foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. The bars and slips the same as for October. 

The lights to be four feet eight inches and a half long, and three feetsix inches wide, with four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied, and a small piece of lead across to every square. In other respects tobe the same as those for October. 

_For Spring sowing. _

The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at the back, and eight inchesin the front. In other respects, the boxes as well as the lights forspring sowing, must be the same as those directed for the Januaryseed-bed. 

Both boxes and lights should have three coats of paint, white inside, and a dark lead colour on the outside. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE EARLY AND LATE

Melon. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE OF

Early and Late Melons. 

For early melons have three loads of dung for a three-light box; but ifyou have previously grown early cucumbers, the old linings will beuseful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion of one half of freshdung with it. This, in fact, will be better than all fresh, as itrequires only once turning, whereas new dung should be turned twice. Ingentlemen's gardens there is generally an abundance of leaves, andsometimes a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, leaves, mixed withan equal proportion of dung, may be used very successfully for theearly melon; and for the late one all leaves, from trees or shrubs, willanswer the purpose, particularly where there are brick pits. 

Let the dung be put together for a week, and lay the same time before itis turned. Be careful that the bottom is dry where the bed is built;raise it with mould or road sand to the height of six or eight inches, and allow the bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and wider thanthe box, so that when the bed is made, it may be drawn up in a gradualmanner to about three or four inches wider than the box, observing atthe same time to beat it well down with a fork. Let it be about threefeet nine inches at the back by three feet six inches in the front;should there, however, happen to be a scarcity of dung, a foot ofstrawberry or asparagus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed, some of each, may be added at the bottom of the bed. 

If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it may be properlymoistened; and after the bed is formed, let it be again watered, as theplants will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the proper effect, if the bed is kept too dry. 

The bed should be made three weeks or a month before the plants are putinto it, and must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged out. Whenthe bed is in a proper condition, hollow it out in the middle to thedepth of four inches, and put a large barrow-fall of mould to each hill, pressing it down close with the hand about a foot deep. 

The day before you intend to ridge out, put a pot of plants in the bed, to prove whether it is sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case, and the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to a light; but ifsmall two will be sufficient. 

The proper time to sow the seed for an early crop is about the middle ofJanuary; and the early cucumber bed will do very well for the purpose. Those sown at this time will be fit to cut in the first or second weekof May; but if there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, thebeginning of February is a preferable season to sow, when they will beready to cut by the latter end of May or the beginning of June. 

The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an early crop. Let them besown in leaf mould, about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight sizepot; immediately apply water, and plunge the pots in a good sharp heat. As soon as the seed makes its appearance, which will be in the course ofabout three days, if it is good, un-plunge the pots and give them alittle water. In two or three days more they will be fit to pot off, which ought always to be done when about a week old, as they strike muchmore freely when potted off young. Let the soil for potting off theplants be half leaf mould, and half light loam or bog earth. 

The best season to sow for a second crop is the beginning of March, andwell calculated for the Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock, Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly the same description, though under different names, which they have derived from thosegardeners who have cultivated them by impregnating one with the other. It is by no means, however, advisable to sow the Black Rock before thelatter end of March, as it is only calculated for a late melon, andshould be grown in large boxes, two plants to a light. This, though afine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not suit those whose objectis to produce a large quantity; for, by attempting to grow more than twoin a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to any degree ofperfection. [7]

The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with the Author, who hasproduced fruit of this kind upwards of seven pounds in weight, thoughthe common size varies from three to five. This description of melon isnot generally known, although it is a fine looking and excellentflavoured fruit: it possesses a thin skin, orange-coloured flesh, andthe rind is very dark. 

The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest flavoured melon that can beproduced, though small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight ofthree pounds, and commonly from one to two. The flesh is of a deepscarlet colour, and it is rather inclined to rock. 

The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive melon in bearing; but inorder to obtain them good flavoured no more than one fruit must besuffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the lights are large, when two may be allowed, that is, six in a light; but if, however, theplants are confined to one fruit, a second crop may be obtained. 

The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in appearance, and muchapproved of by some gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for arock; but it will not, however, keep long, soon loses its flavour, andthe colour changes very yellow; it is also extremely tender in itsgrowth, and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock; neither is itso handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, nor does it ripen any sooner. 

The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, with a thin skin, butgenerally small in its dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort ofthis kind that will grow from three to five pounds in weight. 

The Black Rock melon should not be sown later than the latter end ofMay; the Stroud and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the tenth ofJune; and the Early Cantaloupe about the twentieth of June. 

In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in having a good depth ofearth, from a foot to eighteen inches will be necessary. When the hillsare made for the very early melons, one large barrow-full of mould willbe sufficient, which must be pressed down close with the hand. Thosethat are sown in March will require one barrow-full and a half, andthose afterwards two. In applying this mould, put one barrow-full infirst, and tread it down; then add the remainder, and press it closedown with the hand. Procure some good holding loam of a greasy nature, such as is generally found in the marshes, which is the most preferablekind of soil for melons, and let it be well weathered before using. Itought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. Mix this with a sixthproportion of good rotten dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned overtwo or three different times, that it may be properly sweetened andincorporated together; taking care, however, that it is not broken toofine. 

The mould intended for the hills of the first crop should be lighterthan for those grown afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixedwith a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung; or an equal proportionof stiff loam and leaf mould. As mould is added after the plants havebeen ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take particular carethat the roots are never exposed to the sun, but as soon as they maketheir appearance through the hills, increase the mould, in theproportion of a barrow-full to each hill for the early melon, and two, or even more, to the later one. 

In watering the plants, as the season advances, you must be regulated bythe composition of the soil, and the temperature of the weather. If thesoil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity that should beapplied to light mould. If the weather is warm, much water is necessary, but if cold very little should be given, as too much moisture at thattime will create the canker. 

Heat being materially requisite for preserving the growth of the melon, great care must be taken in keeping the bed well supplied with linings, which must be added until the weather becomes fine and settled; theywill generally be required until the beginning of June; but if theseason is even then cold, it is better to continue them longer. 

In covering up the early plants, at the first ridging out, a single ordouble mat will be sufficient; after that add a little hay, and increaseit if the weather is cold. This should be continued until the middle ofJune, or later, if the season is unfavourable. 

Many gardeners being unacquainted with the proper mode of training andtopping the melon, and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set thefruit, the Author will here give the method always pursued by himself, which, if strictly observed, will be found to be attended with far lesstrouble, and more certain in its effect than the plan generally adopted. 

When the plants are potted off, top them at the second break; that is, let them grow to two leaves; then take out the break, which in somekinds is in the centre, and in others in the second leaf. If you requirethe fruit very fine, two plants will be sufficient in a light; butshould there be no particular necessity in that respect, and the lightsare sufficiently capacious, three may be matured extremely well. 

Have four runners to a light; that is, if two plants, two runners toeach; but if three, two runners to one plant, and one to each of theother two. If the lights are large, they may be suffered to run to eightjoints; but if, on the contrary, the lights are confined, six will besufficient; and all other breaks that come out at home, with the firstbreak that issues from the runners, should be effectually taken away, inorder that the others may derive strength and nourishment. As soon asthey make the first breaks from the runners, which by some aredenominated cross bars, top them at the first joint, and in most sortsthey will generally show fruit; but if it should so happen that thisdoes not succeed, top them again, when they are certain of showing fruitat the second. 

If they are impregnated in the same manner as prescribed in thedirections for the cucumber, there will be no difficulty in setting thefruit, which will also show much bolder, and possess greater strengthwhen topped in close. 

Every description of melon will be brought to a greater degree ofperfection, by being suffered to swell off on the first shows, which canalone be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if this is particularlyattended to, no apprehension need be entertained of the fruit beingsmall or delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, so itdecreases the strength and vigour of the plants. 

Great care is necessary in watering the plants: when they are young, itshould be applied with a rose; but as soon as the runners are extendedall over the bed, that may be dispensed with. If the weather is dull, asmall quantity of water will be sufficient; and if very fine, more mustbe applied carefully without a rose, which will be found beneficial incausing them to set more freely. [8] An insufficiency of moisture is anerror too prevalent with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, andindeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in weight and flavour, maybe greatly attributed to want of judgment in this particular; for if theplants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of which has been beforestated, they are of course more open to the air, and the sun has greaterpower in drying up the soil, consequently the plants will becomeexhausted, and the fruit will ripen before its growth is properlymatured. 

The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full time, will be five weeksfrom the period of setting before it ripens; the Stroud about six; theScarlet seven; and the Black Rock upwards of seven; there will, however, be some difference between those forced early with bottom heat, andthose grown late; the early ones coming to perfection three or fourdays, or even a week before the other. 

The proper time to sow for under-ground melons, that is, such as aregrown without linings, is from the twenty-fifth of March to thetwentieth of June; observing, at the same time, that those which aresown in March will require stronger beds than those that are set threeweeks or a month later. 

The beds for the first should be formed of good dung, well worked, andthree feet in height; whereas the latter will only require two feet. Diga trench the size of the frame, about eighteen inches deep; and if thesoil is a strong good holding loam, it will answer the purpose for anydescription of rock melon; they requiring a strong soil to bring them toperfection; a light loam, however, may be used for the Early Cantaloupe. 

As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down well, make it even, and letit have about six inches fall from the back to the front; then put onthe boxes and lights, and when the heat rises to its proper height, which will be in the course of three or four days, put the mould in forthe hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a light, levellingit about an inch all over the bed, for the purpose of preventing therank steam from injuring the plants. On the following day they may beridged out, and watered, being very particular in sprinkling the bedregularly over. Admit air freely both night and day at first, until thebed is purified, and becomes perfectly sweet; this will be the case inabout a week, when they may be shut down at night. Let the topping andtraining be the same as directed for the early ones. 

If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a bank may be made onthe outside, at the back and front, about a foot or eighteen incheswide, which will prove a great support to the fruit, and cause them togrow much larger and finer; but if the soil is light and rich, by nomeans make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as mould of thatdescription is not at all adapted for the production of fine melons. Theonly one that will in any degree thrive in light rich soil is the EarlyCantaloupe; but any kind of the rock description will never come toperfection. 

It is here necessary to observe that it is impossible ever to obtainfine or good flavoured fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on aplant at a time, as that support which is essential and ought to bedirected to one object, by becoming divided, is insufficient for theperfection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, and renders it oflittle or no value. 

Many horticulturists experience much difficulty from the effects of thered spider and canker in melons; the former being caused by keeping themtoo dry, and the latter arising from too much moisture. In order toavoid these evils, the following directions should be particularlyattended to. When the weather is hot, or there is a strong bottom heat, it is necessary to be free in the application of water, especially roundthe sides of the boxes; for when the plants cover the bed, it will notbe requisite to give any in the centre over the stems. 

When the plants cover the surface of the bed always water without arose, observing that it should be invariably done in the morning, andwhen the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines to get dry beforenight, which will not be the case, if it is applied in the afternoon;and should the following day be dull, and perhaps continue so for threeor four, the vines will remain wet, and then there is every probabilityof their getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from a cold chill, created by unnecessary moisture. 

The canker is a very destructive disorder, and extremely difficult toeradicate. The only means that can be adopted, or likely to provebeneficial, is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to give a goodheat; being careful, at the same time, not to run into the otherextreme, and create the red spider. If, however, the plants are keptthin of vine, and water is applied in the manner before directed, nofear need be entertained of either of the above disorders. 

FOOTNOTES:

[7] The Author has in his possession a sort of this description, fromwhich he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds in weight. 

[8] As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, it will benecessary to shade them from the extreme violence of the heat. Mats aregenerally made use of, but the Author considers evergreen boughs farpreferable, as the former entirely precludes the sun, whereas the latteris beneficial to the plants, in admitting it partially. This will begenerally requisite from about ten until two; and at that time, inproportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air must beadmitted. 

DIMENSIONS OF THE BOXES AND LIGHTS FOR

Early and late Melons. 

_Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons. _

The wood-work should be of the same thickness, as those directed forearly cucumbers, and the boxes of the same length; but two feet deep atthe back, five feet wide, and one foot three inches in the front. 

_For Melons sown from the middle of February until the latter end ofMarch, grown with linings. _

The boxes and lights to be the same in thickness, length, and depth;five feet six inches wide; four bars to a light, with a small iron baracross the middle, in the inside, under the lead-work. 

_For late Melons, grown without Linings. _

The boxes and lights to be the same as those before described, with theexception of being eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven inches inthe front. 

_Brick Pits. _

Let these be formed of nine inch brick-work, sunk one foot under-ground;five feet high at the back, by three feet six inches in the front, fromthe bottom; and six feet wide in the inside. Let the lights be threefeet eight inches wide. 

THE END. 

PRINTED BY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GREEN.