[Transcriber’s Note:

The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage. 

“Keyword” headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page, have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph. 

Each itinerary gives the “miles from” {starting point} and “miles to”{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right cornersof each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces}before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given atthe beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphsdescribing side excursions do not have mileage information. 

The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in thetext, though not in the introductory section: Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class. 

Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text. ]

 [Map: Index and Railway Map of France]

 SOUTH OF FRANCE

 EAST HALF

GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK. 

 SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH.  1s. 

 TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s. 

 CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s. 

 BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s.  6d. 

 NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s.  6d. 

 TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15 Plans. Eighth edition. 5s. 

 The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine. 

 THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d. 

 FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA, MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s. 

From “Scotsman, ” June 2, 1884. 

 “_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’ the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer. _”

 The SOUTH OF FRANCE EAST HALF

 Including the Valleys of THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE

 The BATHS of VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE

 The Whole of the RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN

 With the Inland Towns of TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA

 and THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

 Illustrated with Maps and Plans

 FOURTH EDITION

 C. B. BLACK

 EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1885

 _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_. 

PREFACE. 

This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the mainRailways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirementsof every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with thestations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, totowns distant from the railway. The description of the places on thesebranch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter thanthat of the towns on the main lines. 

Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid ofthese maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, andeither form new routes for himself, or follow those given. 

The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken eitherfrom the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well forMarseilles to Paris. 

The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus isexpressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of themargin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from eachother is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side fromeach other. 

In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken inthe order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that isnecessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs onsuch occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visitedbefore commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all theday. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P. M. Allthe Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also onThursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally grantedon payment of a franc. 

In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For theTime-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on theContinental Railways, see “Preliminary Information. ”

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on theMediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearlyunderstood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is itsafe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or aftersunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, evenwith this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficialinfluences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render itprudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always withindoors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during thesunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads withwhich these places abound; and if the day be well employed in suchexercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening. Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which therailway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I wouldstrongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of hishealth, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourablesituation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly inmind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and ofclimate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general modeof living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite inhis case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstancesrequiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attendedto abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, otherswill demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a dueregard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitutioncan be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the bestclimate, a disease of long standing. 

“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist sostrongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I havewitnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not todeem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter ofsurprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner inwhich many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which theyleft their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared toarise chiefly from too much being expected from climate. 

“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system ofliving which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called‘sight-seeing, ’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keepinglate hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climatepromised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence wascounteracted by the operation of these causes. ” --_Sir James Clark onthe Sanative Influence of Climate. _

SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF. 

 Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p.  93), Mont-Dore (p.  378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p.  283), Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p.  358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp.  212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys. 

 If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p.  290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft. , the air is generally rather sharp and bracing. 

 From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p.  27), in which there are many places of great interest, such as Arles (p.  68), Avignon (p.  58), Orange (p.  51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p.  281) and Culoz (p.  282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p.  98), Montélimart (p.  48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p.  46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy. 

 None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport. They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use. 

The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and Englishcost per day from 12 to 22 frs. , and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs. , including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels ofthe other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. Per day. Meatbreakfast, 2 to 3 frs. ; dinner, 3 to 4 frs. ; service, ½ fr. ; “café aulait, ” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel andthe station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loadsand unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a smallgratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags andtrunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. Each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects agratuity. 

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When astay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggageshould be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “PreliminaryInformation. ”

 C. B. B. 

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 

THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL. 

 The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris are:--

 Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m. ; Rouen, 85 m. ; Gaillon, 58 m. ; Mantes Junction, 36 m. ; and Poissy, 17 m. From Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs. ; 2d cl. 19 frs. ; 3d cl. 14 frs. 

 London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station. Fare--1st class, 31s. ; 2d cl. 23s. ; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets, etc. , in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M.  Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie. , 20 Boulevard Saint Denis. 

 From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel, Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st class, 21 frs. ; 2d, 15½ frs. ; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest. 

 From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40 minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs. ; 2d, 18 frs. ; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains by this line. 

 BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m. ; Abbeville, 109 m. ; Amiens, 82 m. ; Clermont, 41 m. ; and Creil, 32 m. From Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs. 25 c. ; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c. ; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c. 

 London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s. ; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc. , in Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. 

 CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m. ; Montreuil, 134 m. ; Abbeville, 109 m. ; Amiens, 82 m. ; Clermont, 41 m. ; and Creil, 32 m. From Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c. ; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c. 

 London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283 miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second class, express. Fares--60s. ; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. Free. For tickets, etc. , in Paris apply at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord. 

 CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m. ; Hazebrouck, 165 m. ; Arras, 119 m. ; Amiens, 82 m. ; Clermont, 41 m. ; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c. ; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c. ; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c. 

 DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, 165 m. , where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m. ; Amiens, 81 m. ; Clermont, 41 m. ; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c. ; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c. 

 England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours. 

 LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m. ; Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m. ; Yvetot, 111 m. ; Rouen, 87 m. ; Gaillon, 58 m. ; Mantes Junction, 36 m. ; and Poissy, 17 m. From Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28 frs. 10 c. ; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c. ; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains. 

 London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P. M. From Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton 11. 45 P. M. Sea journey, 80 m. ; time, 8 hours. 

 CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m. ; Bayeux, 167 m. ; Caen, 149 m. ; Mezidon Junction, 134 m. ; Lisieux, 119 m. ; Serquigny Junction, 93 m. ; Evreux, 67 m. ; Mantes Junction, 36 m. ; and Poissy, 17 m. From Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours. 

FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS. 

 On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but the time is more accurately kept. 

 To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. Weight of luggage free. 

_Railway Time-Tables. _

 Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie. , and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the “Livret-Chaix Continental, ” which, besides the time-tables of the French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs. 

 Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer, ” sold at every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway map. 

 The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest, ” of the “Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, ” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée, ” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord, ” and of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Est, ” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index. 

 For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous les Chemins de Fer de Belgique. ” Sold at the Belgian railway stations. Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium. 

 For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d’Italia. ” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price 1 fr. 

 In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles, ” sold at the stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg. _ or _Llegada_ means “arrival”; _Salida_, “departure. ”

 In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, ” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico, price 2d. ; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d. 

_In the Railway Station. _

 Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on its way. 

 On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also “bulletins. ”

 After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. Or 2 sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column headed “Nombre de Colis, ” and see that the exact number of your articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures 3,  5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être visé). 

 The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case, having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again. 

_On the Railway. _

 In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens, Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. Etc. --the passengers are frequently discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room, otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference. 

 _Buffet_ means “refreshment-room”; and _Salle d’Attente_, “waiting-room. ”

 There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for ladies. 

 Express trains have third class carriages for long distances. 

_Railway Omnibuses. _

 At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears. 

CONTENTS. 

RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and theMOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY. 

For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the“Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée. ” Sold at all theirstations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the “Indicatore Ufficiale, ” 1 fr. Or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in alldirections. 

In England consult the time-tables of the London and South EasternRailway, 1d. ; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham andDover Railway,  3d. 

 PAGE

 +PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on fly-leaf) 1

 For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles (p.  1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122). 

 +PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1

 The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify from this great central railway are

 +La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast church 14

 From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p.  16), where Thomas à Becket resided. 

 Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit the source of the Seine. 

 From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards. 

 +Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks. 

 +Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p.  27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several interviews with J. C. 

 +Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway junction. 78 miles E. By Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S. E. By Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. By Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S. W. By St. Etienne (p.  346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E. Side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p.  58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. Side to Nîmes (p.  101). See map, p. 27. 

 VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N. E. 44

 VALENCE TO ARDÈCHE 45

 CREST TO MONTELIMART 46

 +Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46

 Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain. 

 +Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. By Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, p. 27) 47

 MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Sévigné died 49

 +La Croisière to Nyons+, 29½ miles E. (p.  50). The climate of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble (map, p. 27). 

 +Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10½ m. East 54

 Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p.  53). 

 +Avignon to Nîmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard 64

 AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived for some time 64

 AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66

 AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66

 TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67

 ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman remains 71

 ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhône 72

 ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat 76 and 72

 ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72

 LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73

 +Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance 77

 +Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. + Aix has communication by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns 78

 +LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône+ (map, p. 27) 81

 PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St. Etienne 81

 +La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83

 The road to the source of the Loire (map, p.  85) 83

 LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL TO LE BÉAGE (map, p. 85) 84

 LE BÉAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p.  46) 85

 LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88

 LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p.  46) 89

 DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89

 CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p.  27) 90

 LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91

 LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92

 +Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S. W. (map, p. 27) 93

 This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood. 

 PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p.  27) 94

 PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited 95

 MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96

 RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98) 96

 PONT D’AVIGNON, station on W. Bank of the Rhône, for Avignon 99

 REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99

 NÎMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105

 THE RIVIERA. 

 +The Riviera. + Hotels, productions, climate 107

 +Marseilles. + Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111

 +MARSEILLES to MENTON. + The French Riviera 122

 Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p.  123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp. 124 and 129). 

 Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. Of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128). 

 Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu (p. 130). 

 Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp.  124, 131). 

 +The Iles d’Or. + Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131

 +Toulon to Hyères+ 132

 +Hyères. + Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate 133

 Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p.  141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p.  147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144). 

 +La Pauline. + Diligence and train to Hyères 142

 +Carnoules. + Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142

 +Le Luc. + Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure mountains 144

 +Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other diligences 145

 +Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p.  154), to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p.  156), to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p.  155), to Estérel (p.  155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins (p.  156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and Theoule (p.  155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152). 

 +Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p.  165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p.  166). 

 +Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180

 +Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. To Vinadio (map, p. 165). 182

 +Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182

 +Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183

 +Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant walk 185

 +Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189

 +Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tête de Chien 191

 +MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200

 BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201

 SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205

 +GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante 219

 +Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting excursion 222

 PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p.  199) 227

 PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227

 LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230

 FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277

 GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway journey 279

 END OF THE RIVIERA. 

 +PARIS to TURIN+ 281

 +PARIS to MODANE+ 281

 AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286

 +Modane to Turin+ 291

 BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291

 +Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305

 TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306

 PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d’Abriés 307

 PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrières 307

 SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308

 CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341

 +TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna 309

 ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint Bernard 320

 +PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains 322

 GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327

 +Grenoble to Briançon+ by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328

 BOURG D’OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329

 BRIANÇON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345

 BRIANÇON TO OULX by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333

 +Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. De la Salette 333

 GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336

 +MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27) 338

 ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339

 DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p.  304) 339

 DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339

 +VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N. E. By rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the important passes between France and Italy 340

 GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341

 BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341

 GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342

 MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344

 PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346

 PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348

 LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p.  27) 349

 PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map on fly-leaf) 351

 MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356

 MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p.  27, map p.  1) 357

 ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS TO VICHY 359

 CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376

 LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377

 MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385

 A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station. 

MAPS AND PLANS. 

PAGE

 +Ardèche+, general map of, including the northern part of the department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire 46

 This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc. , the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc. 

 +Arles+, a town of great interest 68

 +Avignon+, Plan of 59

 +Bologna+, Plan of 316

 +Cannes+, Environs of 155

 Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. 

 +Cannes+, Plan of 149

 +Corniche Road+ 185

 Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway. 

 This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco, and Menton. 

 +Dijon+, Plan of 20

 +Estérel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+ 146

 +Florence+, Plan of 234

 The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza Michelangiolo. 

 +Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237

 The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini. 

 +Genoa+, Plan of 214

 +Hyères+, Environs of 129

 As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the environs of both towns are given on the same map. 

 +Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn 199

 Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy, ” and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes, ” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo. ”

 +Leghorn+, Plan of 226

 +Lyons+, General plan of 30

 +Lyons+, Partial plan of 33

 +Marseilles+, Plan of 113

 +Marseilles to Cannes+ 123

 This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side are given the “Iles d’Or, ” called also the “Islands of Hyères, ” of which the largest is Porquerolles. 

 +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291

 This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St. Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy. 

 +Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378

 +Nice+, Plan of 171

 +Nîmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101

 +Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the S. And S. E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to the E. , and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1

 +Pisa+, Plan of 224

 The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station. 

 +Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_

 This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône. 

 +Rhône and Savoy+ 107

 This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The French Riviera. 

 +Savona to Rapallo+ 211

 Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. 

 +The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163

 This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy. 

 +The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the mountain-passes between them 304

 +The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardèche; among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire 84

 +The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200

 +The Mouths of the Rhône+ 66

 Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. From Marseilles (see pp.  77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66). 

 +The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance+, in which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest 56

 +Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107

 +Toulon+, Environs of 129

 This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small steamers sailing from the port. 

 +Troyes+, Plan of 12

 +Turin+, Plan of 293

 +Vichy+, Plan of 359

CARTE DU JOUR. 

The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms ofsome of the most useful dishes mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of therestaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated. 

 [Transcriber’s Note: The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may require added salt. ]

SOUPS. 

 _Consommé_, beef-tea. _Bouillon_, broth. _Potage_, soup. _Julienne_, vegetable soups. _Purée_, pease-soup. _Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed, ” as-- _Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes. „ „ _marron_, mashed chestnuts. 

BEEF. 

 _Bœuf au naturel_, or simply “nature, ” plain boiled beef. _Naturel_ in cookery means “plain. ” _Bœuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots. Nearly the same as the next. _Bœuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables. _Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef. _Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables. _Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices. _Sauté_ in cookery means “sliced. ” _Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes. In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_. _Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak. „ _aux pommes_, with potatoes. „ _aux pommes sautées_, with sliced potatoes. „ _aux haricots_, with kidney beans. „ _bien cuit_, well done. „ _saignant_, under done. _Palais de Bœuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate. _Au gratin_ in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to potatoes it means “browned. ”

MUTTON. 

 _Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops. „ „ „ _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs. „ „ „ _aux pointes d’asperge_, mutton chops with asparagus tops. „ „ „ _à la purée de pommes_, mutton chops with mashed potatoes. _Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton. _Pieds de mouton_, sheep’s trotters. _Gigot d’agneau_, a leg of lamb. _Blanquette d’agneau_, hashed stewed lamb. _Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys. „ _sautés_, sliced kidneys. _Etuvé_, stewed. 

VEAL. 

 _Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet. _Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf’s head with oil and vinegar. _Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf’s ear. _Ris de veau_, sweetbread. _Foie de veau_, calf’s liver. _Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal. _Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy. _Jus_, gravy. 

VEGETABLES. 

 _Pommes de terre_, potatoes. _Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits. _Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce. _Chou_, cabbage. _Champignons_, mushrooms. _Epinards_, spinage. _Fêves de marais_, garden beans. _Haricots verts_, green kidney beans. _Oseille_, sorrel. _Petits pois_, green peas. _Jardinière_ means “dressed with vegetables. ”

POULTRY AND GAME. 

 _Poularde_, fowl. _Poulet_, chicken. _Chapon_, capon. _Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken. _Des œufs à la coque_, boiled eggs. _Dindonneau_, young turkey. _Canard_, duck. _Perdreau_, partridge. _Mauviettes_, field-larks. _Alouettes_, larks. _Grives_, thrushes. _Becasse_, woodcock. _Becassine_, snipe. _Chevreuil_, venison. _Caille_, quail. 

FISH. 

 _Anguille_, eel. _Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings. _Homard_, lobster. _Huitres_, oysters. _Merlans_, whitings. _Morue_, cod. _Raie_, skate. _Saumon_, salmon. _Sole_, sole. _Turbot_, turbot. _Frit_, fried. _Grillé_, done on the gridiron. 

DESSERT. 

 _Compote_, applied to fruits, means “stewed. ” „ _de pommes_, stewed apples. „ _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes. _Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters. „ „ „ _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters. _Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds. 

DRINK. 

 _Vin de Bordeaux_, claret. A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water. At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a little extra. _Frappé_, applied to liquids, means “iced. ” _Caraffe frappé_, iced water. _Vin frappé_, iced wine. The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a _choppe_. The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, a word often used in the cheap restaurants. 

 [Map: Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c. ]

THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA. 

 +Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692 miles. +

+PART I. --PARIS TO MARSEILLES. +

BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles. 

 Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London to Marseilles, ” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway. ” Through tickets sold at their London office. 

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{ }{537}+PARIS. + Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the H. De l’Univers, and a little farther offthe H.  Jules César. 

_Maps. _--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the detailsas far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, mappage 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by theLondon, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris toMarseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s. , time 23 hours;starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6. 30 A. M. , andarriving next day at 5. 33 A. M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6. 35A. M. For Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A. M. From Toulon a train startsfor Hyères at 9. 32 A. M. , and arrives at 10. 13 A. M. The third-classcarriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separatecompartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going toHyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris toHyères (£2:12s. ), as every break adds considerably to the expense;moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a mostinconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journeyfrom Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6. 

The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S. W. Corner of the Boisde Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, whichhere joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. From Paris, pop. 9000, has alarge lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. +St. Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary collegewith an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. Per day. Itcontains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery forthe cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the+Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers andRobespierre resided here some time. 

[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE. ]

9½ m. S. From Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowingthrough a verdant valley. 3¼ m. Farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor ofHenri IV. 

 On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English literature. 

[Headnote: MELUN. ]

 13¾ m. From Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. Created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. Long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. High. 28 m. S. From Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12, 000. _Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent. , restored; with a neat 2 storied tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. Surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, “Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me siècle. ” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N. E. From Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau. 

[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU. ]

 {37}{500} +FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. De la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. De la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs. , 2d, 11 frs. Per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk. 

 Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held. 

 _Coach Tariff. _--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr. , of the forest in the shop opposite. 

 A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. For the day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 frs. For the day. 

 Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following prices:--

 A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. For the first hour, and 3 frs. For each succeeding hour. 

 A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour 3 frs. , and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c. 

 A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. An hour. 

 Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. A day. 

 +Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which cover an area of 18, 740 acres, intersected by 12, 000 m. Of roads and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux, ” or “du Cheval Blanc, ” which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not obligatory. 

 To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite, procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux. ” The “appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed. 

 The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by Francis I. , who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri IV. , who spent £100, 000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. Expended £250, 000 upon it, and Louis XVIII. And Louis Philippe contributed also large sums. 

[Headnote: ENTRANCE. ]

 The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. By 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I. , forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his wretchedness. 

 As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the following abridged list should be read before entering. 

[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITÉ. ]

 The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinité+, built by Francis I. In 1529, and largely decorated by Henri IV. In consequence of the Spanish ambassador having remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty. ” Louis XI. Was married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. Was baptized. The paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. And Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. By Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon. 

[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. ]

 Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+, containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. And III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. To Napoleon. +Salon de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. And +Henri IV. +, and made by Louis XV. His study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built by Charles IX. , ornamented by Louis XIII. And XIV. , to which Napoleon I. Added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000. 

[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE. ]

 APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. Of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI. , who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). +The Bedroom. + Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. +Salon de Musique. + Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the

 GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. From the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this coward. ”

 At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the goddess Diana. 

[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUISAND DES GARDES. ]

 We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F.  Desportes, 1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not shown (see page 8). The other leads into

 LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des +Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie. +Salon de François I. + Napoleon I. And Charles X. Used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry. +Salon de Louis XIII. + The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. Was born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. By Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. And Louis XV. , 1773-1777. Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX. , but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I. , with the allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II. , with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV. +), with figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV. , with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII. , with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. High and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV. , and at each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the

 ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV. , was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes, representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol. 

 GALERIE DE HENRI II. , or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. Long by 30 wide, lighted on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I. , and decorated by Henri II. For his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. And of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the

 GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I. , parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210 ft. Long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis. Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I. From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the

 APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV. ), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by Pope Pius VII. , more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. For Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and other French masters. +Antechamber. + Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers. + Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon. + Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+ (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX. , bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII. --portrait of him by David. Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV. By Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead of time of Louis XIV. , enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d’Attente. Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI. +Antechamber. + 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood. Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques. 

 GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. By Ambroise Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading to the

 SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III. , and seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII. , adorned with a statue of him in stucco. 

[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN. ]

 LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES. 

 +Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. After his return from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius VII. Performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I. , upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV. +, about the year 1608. Napoleon III. Commenced the restoration. 

 Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. Immediately over it. To the right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I. 

 Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV. , under the +Galerie de Diane+, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p.  6). 

 Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by J. B. Oudry. 

 Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber, saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. Signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7). 

 The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission. 

THE COURTS. 

 From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through the porch in the N. E. Corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left the +Porte Dorée+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects are mythological. Charles V. Entered by this gateway in 1539. And by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I. , a salamander. The principal entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices. 

 At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri IV. Or Des Offices, 285 ft. Long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular. 

[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST. ]

 Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:--

 1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle Vue--Barbison par le Bas Bréau--Gorges d’Apremont et Franchard. 

 2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d’Augas--Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort l’Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa. 

 3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare aux Fées--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd. Maitre. 

 The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N. W. From Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W.  The second contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N.  The Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S. , leads to a very picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. By rail from Fontainebleau. 

 After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and trellis-work. 

[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{42}{495}+MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of fortifications, 15th cent. , and the two old city gatesParis and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, isprincipally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m. Farther S. E. Is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer ofthe Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system. 

Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town. _Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, iftime permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parishchurch, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groiningof the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar isthe sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, orrather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which hereunite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue ofNapoleon I. ; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicatesthe spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hilloverlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville. Montereau has important potteries. 

[Headnote: SENS. ]

{71}{466}+SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12, 400. _Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is thepromenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statueof the chemist Thénard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the streetis the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulême, when shevisited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable walks. 

[Headnote: THOMAS À BECKET. ]

 The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI. , by G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. From the cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century, and two small paintings on marble by A. Del Sarto. Next them is valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. From the church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. From St. Florentin, page 16, and 13 m. N. E. From Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour. 

[Headnote: TROYES. ]

 41 m. E. From Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop. 39, 000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V. ]

 Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine, canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th century, while the portal of the N. Transept belongs to the 13th. Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. Side of choir, are of the 16th cent. , and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V. Of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. Of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI. Should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate, St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few yards to the N. Of the cathedral is the building containing the _Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125, 000 volumes and 3600 MSS. , in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc. ; [Headnote: SALLE SIMARD. ] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV. , is a gem of Gothic architecture, the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler. A short way N. Is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. From St. Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is +St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel “O Sacrum Convivium, ” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. Corner of the first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead. 

 [Map: Troyes]

 Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery. 

 South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by Gentil. 

 Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. Per hour; and for two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff. 

[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT. ]

 The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. During his struggles in 1814. 

[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{79}{458}+VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castlehere of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer” spent some days while on hisway to the Bastile (p.  158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, SaintLaurent, by a bridge 700ft. Long. 5 m. Beyond, or 84 m. From Paris, isSt.  Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of whichthe greater part of the choir, as well as the S. And N. Porches, belongto the 13th cent. , and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16thcents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is aruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent. 

{91}{446}+JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, betweenthe station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the rightbank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most importantpart of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in whichare situated St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent. ;and St. Thibault, 15th cent. 

{96}{441}+LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançonand the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to LesLaumes, 79½ m. Southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p.  1. )

[Headnote: AUXERRE. ]

LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES. 

 12½ m. S. From La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16, 500, on the Yonne and the hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was rebuilt in the 13th cent. , over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. And S. Transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery. Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent. , but restored in the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and finished in the 17th cent. , is in Italian-Gothic. 

 Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16. )

 13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30, 000 acres, produce the well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty flavour. 

 Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S. , with the line to Les Laumes, 56 miles S. E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1. )

[Headnote: SERMIZELLES. ]

 37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private vehicle can be had (20 frs. ) for visiting Vezelay, Pont Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354. 

[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET. ]

 +Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent. , the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. Side of the choir a door opens into what was formerly the “salle capitulaire, ” built in the 12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St. Martin’s, 12th cent. , and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent. ), as well as parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have included Henri II. Himself, had he not been informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired. 

 1¼ m. From Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of the 14th cent. , but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. From St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban. 

[Headnote: SEMUR. ]

 9½ m. E. From Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent. , is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S. W. From Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine in rafts. 

 After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I. , Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent. , and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The windows of the N. Aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N. E. This branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map page 1. )

[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{107½}{429½}+SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. De la Gare. Intown, H.  Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coachstarts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile ofPontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny roadseparates from the Chablis road. 

Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. Theparish church, 12th to 15th cents. , is small, but interesting. Thewindows contain 15th and 16th cent. Glass, repaired with modern pieces. The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettesstanding diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautifulrood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is arelief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrectionof Jesus Christ. 

At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in theabbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S. W. , stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of thechurch of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice withnarthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grandand imposing, is 355 ft. From W. To E. , 72 ft. Wide, and 72 high, and isupheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headedwindows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactlysimilar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent. , behind the high altar arethe bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at avillage in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain woodencoffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of thebuilding is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off thesanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable forthe villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbeybuildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabitedby Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used towear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curiousdeeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then anaustere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung withengravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund. 

Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remainedtill Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay toSens. 

[Headnote: TONNERRE. ]

{123}{414}+TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Courriers--both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Liond’Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to thecemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace rightabove the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the FosseDionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by thewasherwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads downto the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built byMarguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Herremains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar(died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquisde Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces someexcellent wine. 

[Headnote: TANLAY. ]

{127½}{409½}+TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armançon. A small village with a handsomecastle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume deMontmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother ofAdmiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast façade is flanked by two wings. Theprincipal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of theTour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet underthe presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the mostprominent part in the political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. As Pluto, and theCondé as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructedrecesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of thesplendid chimney-pieces is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the groundsare the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous fortruffles. 

[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC. ]

{136}{401}+ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built according to the plans of Primaticcio. 

{142}{395}+NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris andBâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 milesnorth-east to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle ofRochefort, 17th and 18th cents. 

[Headnote: MONTBARD. ]

{151}{386}+MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de laPoste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small villageon the 7th of September 1707. His château, a plain large house, isentered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the westernfront of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows andone door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue hisstudies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds ofthe château, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of theDukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by hisson, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen daysbefore the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at theentrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb ofBuffon. A black stone slab over the door bears the followinginscription:--

 BUFFON A été inhumé dans le Caveau de cette chapelle Le 20 Avril 1788. 

There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is theabbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill. 

{160}{377}+LES LAUMES. + _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is MountAuxois, 1370 ft. Above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile fromthe station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_H. Du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B. C. 50, defeated the Gauls underVercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. Le Duc, standsjust above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent. ) hassome curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th ofSeptember. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in abeautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors ofthe abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuablecollection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See page 14. )

{165}{372}+DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steepmountains 1315 ft. High. _Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village arecurious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibusat station for +Flavigny+, 1½ mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390ft. Above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent. , with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Conventof the Ursulines, with splendid view. 

[Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE. ]

{171¼}{365¾}+VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the+Source of the Seine+, 6¼ miles S. By the path over the hill through thewoods, but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till thevillage of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towardsBligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing thefarmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the leftand follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côted’Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes firstthe farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine(1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of alittle garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the housebeyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of arecumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs. , orguide 5 frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who pleasecan go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 milessouth, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church. A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seineis Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. Distant. 

{179}{358}+BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which piercesthrough the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13, 440 feetlong, and 1330 feet above the sea. 

{190}{347}+VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and beforereaching the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some boldrailway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiersof arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles fromNevers. (For Autun, see page 24. )

 [Map: DIJON

 The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI. , now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No.  8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet. ]

[Headnote: DIJON. ]

{196}{341}+DIJON+, pop. 48, 000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Nearthe Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and theNord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis. 

Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. The first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. Every succeeding hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. Seine. The St. Seine dil. Starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, 82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellentroad leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. Distant. (See page 19. )

[Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS. ]

The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which wasinhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire;but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, theSalle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, andcommanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, andis occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des BeauxArts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the rightside of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Otherdays a fee of 1 fr. Is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are themagnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his sonJean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of thetwo, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and whitemarble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with fortystatuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among thearticles which belonged to them in this room are threebeautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, andthe crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Twostatues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a fewchoice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, isconsidered one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, andthe kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and housesarranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Ruedes Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residenceof the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of thespiral staircase is the “Homme au panier, ” a statue 4 feet 6 inches inheight, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple orserving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring, like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for theroof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fineRenaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of doublearch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME. ] Close to theRue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, a very beautifuland interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end isthe house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the RueChaudronnière, the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from thefront of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly thepalace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assisesis of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the sameroom is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the prettylittle chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatreis St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent. , and partly rebuilt in the18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street, R.  Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent. , with a few curiousfrescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the RueGuillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. In1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; anda little to the N. E. By a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateaubeside the curious little church, 2 miles N. W. By the road of that name. [Headnote: ST.  BENIGNE. ST.  JEAN. BOSSUET. ] Towards the right is St. Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, builtin 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent. , the remainder to the13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski(1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. Inthe N. Aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains ofJean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent. , with anarthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillerystore. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean, founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent. , rebuilt in1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the traceryof the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not withoutmerit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this“Place, ” 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent andillustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death ofHenrietta Anne, the daughter of our Charles I. , and wife of the Duke ofOrleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALIÉNÉS. ] Atthe Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile desAliénés+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent. ) of the chapel are the kneelingeffigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautifulglass (15th cent. ) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken tothe well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of ahexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent. , the sculptor of the ducal monumentsin the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on anaverage 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but anadmirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Juraare comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its chargesare more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number ofpleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards theextremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southerncontinuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to thepublic park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopesof the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or, extending from N. E. To S. W. , and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them risesanother range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering thelower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow thefirst-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Maconwines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten yearsin bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years. 

[Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN. ]

{203}{334}+GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1¼ mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for theirfirst-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies. 

{206¼}{330¾}+VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier. Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-classBurgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache. 

{209½}{327½}+NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. Thebest vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of anexquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent. , and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house ofdetention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to beagricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798. 

[Headnote: BEAUNE. ]

{219}{318}+BEAUNE+, pop. 12, 000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the streamBuzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal inBurgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around itare the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Ofthese the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the mostvaluable wine, under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and thePommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. Theprincipal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent. , containssemicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthiancapitals. 

In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue toGaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the PolytechnicSchool. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the15th cent. --a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseilupstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting ofthe Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, witha château built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée. 

[Headnote: MEURSAULT. ]

{223½}{313½}+MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1½ m. From the station. Omnibus awaitspassengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here arethe Goutte d’Or, a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry whitewine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown. 

{228}{309}+CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers102 m. W. , passing Nolay 5 m. W. , Autun 26 m. W. , Montchanin 18 m. W. , and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagnysouthwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards aroundChagny produce a first-class quality. 

 Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. High. In a deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. Are the ruins of the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a remarkable echo. 8 m. Beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal mines. 

[Headnote: AUTUN. ]

 26 m. W. From Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13, 000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into Autun. Napoleon III. , in his “History of Cæsar, ” considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been discovered. The walls of Autun were 10, 000 feet in circumference and 8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of which two--the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. André, lately restored--still remain. The Porte d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great antiquity. 

 In the College is the Public Library, with 12, 000 volumes; and the Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789 Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun. 

[Headnote: MONTCHANIN. ]

 73 m. E. From Moulins, 86 m. E. From Nevers, 18 m. W. From Chagny, is +Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. Des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin. 

[Headnote: LE CREUSOT. ]

 78¼ m. E. From Nevers, 7¾ m. W. From Montchanin, and 26 m. W. From Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25, 000, of whom 6300 are employed in the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise. 

 West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. From Nevers, is +Etang+, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. From Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12 m. To St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. From Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. South from Clamecy by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. De la Croix, close to station. 23½ m. E. From Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent. , containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes. 

[Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{235}{302}+CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 21, 000. _Hotels:_ at the station, HôtelBourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer toMacon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plainon the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with goodquays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, a Gothic edifice of thelatter part of the 13th cent. , occupying the site of a church founded in532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, andanother at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalonis St. Marcel, where Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, butthe monastery has disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to

{243}{294}+VARENNES. + South from this station the train passes before the abbey ofSt. Ambreuil. 

{254}{283}+TOURNUS+, on the Saône, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. Anuntidy town on the Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In thePlace de l’Hôtel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by thecitizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are amongthe finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born hereon August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interestingGothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th andthe latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus producegood wines. 

 [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy. ]

[Headnote: MACON. ]

{274}{263}+MACON+, pop. 20, 000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction withline to Bourg, 41 m. E. _Hotels. _--Near the station, H. Étrangers. Intown the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from thesteamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons, Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels ChampsElysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, aninferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quayswhich line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side ofthe river. The oldest edifice is the +Cathedral+ of St. Vincent, builtin the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, andthe porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopalpalace. In this neighbourhood, at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the housewhere Lamartine was born. On a black marble slab over the door are thewords:--Ici est né Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre1790. 

In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, thebeautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville. 

From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line extends to Geneva74 m. E. , by Bourg 13½ m. E. , Nantua and Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (SeeBlack’s _France_, North Half, and map page 1. )

[Headnote: CLUNY. ]

 +Cluny+, pop. 5000. In the valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne; Pavilions--both near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent. ) are enormous corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent. , with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc. , from the first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum; entrance, ½-franc each. 

[Headnote: PARAY-LE-MONIAL. ]

 41½ m. E. From Moulins and 33 m. From Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial, pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. Des Pelerins. The Palais de Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built in the 16th cent. , to which date belongs also the house close to it, occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office. 

 A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish church, founded in the llth cent. , but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent. Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs, llth cent. ; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached columns. 

 From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854. To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J.  C. And 3 angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C. , with flowing yellow hair and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her. To the left of entrance the pictures are--1st, a Vision; 2d, Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. And Marguerite. The picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when J.  C. Is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for ever. ” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing one of the above incidents. 

 The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. Long. On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on the 6th November 1672. On the day when J.  C. Told her she had been chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675, when the R. P. De la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour commences to be known. ” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by Pio IX. On the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N. D. De Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits. 

 From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône, whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page 26. 

[Headnote: ROMANECHE. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{283}{254}+ROMANECHE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which shouldbe drunk in the second year from the vintage. 

[Headnote: BELLEVILLE. ]

{288½}{248½}+BELLEVILLE+, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and thenext Belleville, 1¼ m. From the station, with a comfortable little inn, the H.  Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent. , has smallround-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially inthose of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the smallcircular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of theBeaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. ToBeaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent. , and some curioushouses. (Map, page 26. )

{297}{240}+VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 12, 600, on the river Morgan, near theSaône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. Containing important linenmanufactories, and vineyards producing a good white wine. The parishchurch, N.  D. Des Marais, was commenced in the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. IsTrévoux station, 1½ m. From the town, pop. 3000, on the E. Bank of theSaône. _Inns:_ Terrasse; France. The Jesuits compiled and printed inthis town the _Journal de Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire deTrévoux_ in 1704. 

{306}{231}+ST. GERMAIN AU-MONT-D’OR+, junction with line from Paris to Lyons, byRoanne and Tarare. 

[Headnote: LYONS. ]

{318}{219}+LYONS+, pop. 343, 000. The Perrache railway station is 218 m. FromParis, 219 m. From Marseilles, 78 m. From Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. FromBourg, 104 m. From Geneva, 36 m. From St. Etienne, 56 m. From Roanne, 100 from Vichy, and 214 m. From Turin. 

_Hotels (first-class). _--H. De l’Europe, admirably situated, with oneside to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the PlaceBellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de laRépublique are the H.  Collet and the H. De Lyon. H.  Bellecour in thePlace Bellecour. H. Des Beaux Arts in the R. De l’Hôtel de Ville, alsowell situated. In the Place Perrache, below the station, are the hotelsUnivers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du Parc. 

_Less expensive Hotels. _--The H. Du Globe; and the Havre et duLuxemburg--both near the Place Bellecour. Near the Place des Terreaux inthe R.  Platière, the H. De Paris et du Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. DesNégociants, a large house frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near theNégociants, at No. 47 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H.  Bayard. Hôtel desÉtrangers, Place de la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8 frs. , in the Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the GeneralHospital, the H.  Bourne. A great many diligences start from thisneighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of the cheapest. Among the bestcafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati, No. 8; CaféNeuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. De la République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English newspapers. In Lyons the termComptoir is applied to bars where wines, cordials, and brandies aresold. 

_Post Office. _--Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at thesouth end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade ofthe Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand. 

_Telegraph. _--Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. Branchoffices--Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand. 

[Headnote: RAILWAY STATIONS. CAB FARES. ]

_Railway Stations. _--The great and central station is the +Gare dePerrache+, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and theSaône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on therailway to Bourg. The +Bourg or Satonay+ railway station is at the topof the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N. E. Corner of the Placedes Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the hill by arope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per 100, andthe distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de la CroixRousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway carriages. Therope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d. , and forms a convenient wayof escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The Dombes or +St. Paul’s+ railway station is for Montbrison, 40 m. S. W. The Vaise andBrotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the Perrache station. TheBrotteaux station, situated on the confines of the Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams. 

 CAB FARES +-------------------------+-----------------------+----------------+ | | DE 7 H. DU MATIN | DE MINUIT | | | a Minuit. | a 7 H. Du Mat. | | KIND OF CAB. +-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ | | La |La 1re. | Les H. | La | | | |course. |heure. | suiv. |course. |l’heure. | +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+ |A 2 places (coupés) | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 25 | 1 65 | 2 50 | |A 4 places (berlines) | 1 50 | 2 | 1 50 | 2 | 3 | |Voitures découvertes | | | | | | | à 2 places| 1 75 | 2 | 1 75 | 2 15 | 3 | | à 4 places| 2 | 2 50 | 2 | 2 50 | 3 50 | +-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+

The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs with2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations theomnibuses from the hotels await passengers. 

 [Map: Lyons]

[Headnote: TRAMWAYS. THEATRES. STEAMERS. ]

_Tramways. _--The fares are moderate, and most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal parts of the town is the largeroomy car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteauxrailway station, passing through the P.  Perrache, P. Henri IV. , RueBourbon, P.  Bellecour, R. And P. De la République between the Hôtel deVille and the Grand Theatre, across the bridge Morand, and up the CourMorand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At theBrotteaux terminus the road by the side of the fort “des Charpennes”leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40), whichhaving visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10minutes, or by the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most important places to visit on the return journey are thePalais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38). Tram between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fareoutside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come outat the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. From Lyons, pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons. 

_Theatres. _--The +Grand Théâtre+, between the Hôtel de Ville and theRhône. Boxes and front stalls, 6 frs. The +Théâtre des Célestins+, between the Rue St. Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs. ; stalls, 4 frs. +Théâtre Bellecour+, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a newtheatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stallscost 7 frs. Each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the Théâtre desVariétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. Antoine; andthe Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire. 

_Steamers on the Saône_ (Les Guèpes). --Sail between the Quai St. Antoine(to the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. Insummer 5 departures daily. 

Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quaide Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the Pont du Portanother set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling likewise atnumerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, and betweenthem in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe. 

The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. Claireon the +Rhône and Aix-les-Bains+ on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, calling atthe principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing and shippingof cargo. 

[Headnote: SIGHTS. ]

_Sights. _--Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteauxrailway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40. Thegalleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silkmanufacture, page 38. 

Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largestrivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approacheach other the isthmus, 545 ft. Above the sea, on which the finest partof the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets, the Rue de la République, the R. De l’Hôtel de Ville, and theR.  Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautifulsquares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The PlacePerrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. Inthe centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. By Nieuwerkerke, which wastaken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of themunicipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted withtrees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. By Lemot, which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these twosquares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794, during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts, on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildingspierced by an arcade decorated by P.  Delorme and Maupin (see page 37). 

The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent ofsubstantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the BateauxParisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behindthe Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For shortsails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31. 

 [Map: Lyons]

[Headnote: NOTRE-DAME-DE-FOURVIÈRE. ROPE RAILWAY. ]

The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of+Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière+, standing on the site of the forum erected byTrajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvière issupposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything else, on account of theexcellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt+ across the Saône, at theupper side of the “Place, ” is the rope railway, which ascends throughtunnels the hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about¾ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, righthand, by the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this roadis a large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especiallydevoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It hasaccommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Romanpalace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of thishospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for thepilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets, medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels. 

[Headnote: OBSERVATOIRE GAY. ST. PAUL. ]

On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, isthe chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, fromwhich rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. High. This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c. , and commands a superbview of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers areimmediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, MontBlanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the churchbelow, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less. The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church, which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884. It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent objectin Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination anoctagonal tower 115 ft. High, which forms the chancel. At each of thefour corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are threelarge windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the topof the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiffsculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in theneighbourhood are convents. A little eastward is the “Observatoire Gay, ”from which a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yardslong, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station ofthe Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this station is thechurch of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful N. Portal, thehandsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, a few of thewindows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church ofthe 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches ofLyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which theyare composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent. 

[Headnote: ST. IRÉNÉE. ]

The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 RueTrion, higher and to the N. W. Of Fourvière and within a very shortdistance of the church of +St. Irénée+, on the summit of a hill in thesuburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are aVia Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered bythe Rhône and the Saône. By the N. Side of the church is the entranceinto the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second, which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across thefirst flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St. Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St. Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtreSt. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs yfurent ensevelis. ” On the second arch another inscription states that in1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones ofanimals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of thesaints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the firstflight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, theoriginal resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies werethrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus, A. D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing particular. To the west, in theparish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which broughtwater to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable ofsupplying 11, 000, 000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply ofLyons is obtained from the Rhône. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL OF ST. JEAN. ]

Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the Tilsitbridge, is the +Cathedral+ of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th cent. , repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, andreconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel datesfrom the end of the 12th cent. , the lower part of the façade from the13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastelydecorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. FromW. To E. And 108 ft. High, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15thcent. Glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blownflower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, righthand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brotherPierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits, and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits ofthe arches and the vault of the roof are richly decorated. In the N. Transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an AsiaticGreek, who preached in this city A. D. 177, and sealed his doctrines withhis blood. Adjoining the S. Aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent. , formerly the bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers. 

A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)occupied in the 13th cent. By the +Knight Templars+. Above the cathedralis the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of the largemarket, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the courtrooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up--the Pont deNemours--leads directly to the church of +Saint Nizier+, with the façadetowards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. The rest of thebuilding belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a broad triforiumwith heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the church. The vaultingshafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In the chapel of the southtransept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the foot of the pier in thistransept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th cent. At the south sideof the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, a modern edifice, with a beautifulportal of the 11th cent. , all that remains of the original church. 

[Headnote: PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS. ]

On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the +Palais desBeaux-Arts+, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames Bénédictinesde Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the museums. Opento the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from 11 to 4, andto strangers daily. 

[Headnote: MUSÉE LAPIDAIRE. ]

Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are theancient marbles or +Musée Lapidaire+, one of the best in Europe. Thesepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, inmany instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these recordsof the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the Augustan ageupwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of that day werealready “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner of the court onentering is the stair which leads up to the Archæological Museum and thePicture Gallery, both on the first floor. Up on the second floor is thecollection of paintings by the “peintres lyonnais. ”

[Headnote: MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE. ]

The Musée Archéologique is well arranged and carefully labelled. Theonly object we would indicate, as it is apt to be overlooked, is thebronze table, A. D. 48, in the second room left hand, with inscribedportions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, imploringthe senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a Romancolony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This tablewas discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, were alsoborn in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time prefect ofLyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs inhieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels, armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets, rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period onthe Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismaticcollection, 30, 000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck atLyons from 43 B. C. To 1857. Adjoining and on the same floor is thePicture Gallery, contained in six small rooms, of which the first threecontain the Flemish and Dutch schools, the next two the Italian andSpanish schools, and the sixth the French school. They are all carefullylabelled. Among the pictures which represent the Flemish school areworks by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish schools arerepresented by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor of the fourth room is a remarkablyperfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by 3, representing chariot races inthe Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay. 

[Headnote: GALERIE CHENAVARD. ]

In the S. E. Corner a handsome staircase leads up to the GalerieChenavard on the first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by himillustrative of the scenes which accompanied the introduction ofChristianity into France. They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason supervening, they were not sent. On the floorsare three beautiful mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room aboveare the best pictures--J.  F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel, P.  Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619;P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E.  L. David, 1748-1825;Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M.  Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension of Christ, considered the gem of the collection. This picture, originally in thechurch of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII. “inattestato del suo affetto é della grata sua rimembranza per la citta diLione. ” The lower part of the picture is by far the best, the figures inthe air are too massive, and the posture of J.  C. Is stiff. J.  Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. Del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565;Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran. 

The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the+Mineralogical Collection+, in which are represented the characteristicrocks and fossils of every department of France, and the copper oresfrom the mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40, 000engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on thearts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open everyevening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville. 

[Headnote: PLACE TERREAUX. HÔTEL DE VILLE. ]

On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, builtin 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320, 000. The facade, flanked by domedsquare pavilions, is 160 ft. Wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft. Long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. From thecentre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. High. On the façade over theentrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. In bold relief. Within thevestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by thebrothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stoodoriginally under the statue of Louis XIV. In the Place Bellecour. 

In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, inthe Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting inthe Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that itbecame so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send theexecutioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finishthis wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen. 

[Headnote: CONDITION DES SOIES. ]

Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, isthe establishment of the +Condition des Soies+, where the bales of silkbrought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an irongrating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from64° to 72° Fahr. , and are weighed both before and after this operation. The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the firststory, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St. Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the oppositeend of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church. 

[Headnote: BOURSE. LIBRARY. ]

In the Rue de la République is the +Bourse+, a profusely ornamentededifice inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, builtin the 14th cent. , and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycéewith the public library, containing the great terrestrial globe made atLyons in 1701, indicating the great African lakes, the rediscovery ofwhich has been one of the events of the present century. There are160, 000 volumes and 2500 manuscripts, --about 600 of the printed worksbeing incunabula, and 25 of the MSS. Belonging to the Carlovingianperiod. 

[Headnote: SILK MUSEUM. ]

In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the +Art andManufacture+ of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdaysbetween 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases, specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according tocenturies from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by farthe richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the firstand the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highlyartistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovelydesigns in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to thehall is a portrait (about 13 in. By 10) of Jacquard, in a sittingposture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Alsothe Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of loomsfrom the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each containspart of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loommade by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled toproduce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merelychanging the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the sameloom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor wasB.  Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are improvedcopies. 

The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history ofsilk--displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, aswell as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in everycondition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; andhanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced. Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters. 

Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand forthese having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, tohold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals, have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measureis owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, which makes a silkdress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, with an occasionalalteration, it was worn for years. 

In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large coveredmarkets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive intanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railwaytravelling provision. (See page 42. )

[Headnote: CITY HOSPITAL AND WORKHOUSE. ]

Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and theother, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the +HôtelDieu+, or general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. ByChildebert and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principallythe work of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of thebeds, about 1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. To 12 frs. Perday. The rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wardsare arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre underthe small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it fromtheir beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men, containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick aretended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of theCroix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another atOullins for incurables. 

In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs. Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 atMontpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now abuilt-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now itis covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared. 

Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent. , richlydecorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages, of Sainte Valentine. 

Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, onthe occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes whohave reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to bemothers. The church was built in 1617. 

[Headnote: ST. MARTIN D’AINAY. ]

North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across theSaône, is the church of +St. Martin d’Ainay+, which, with the monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, on the siteof a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour of CæsarAugustus. The first church having been destroyed by the Saracens, in the8th cent. , it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by PopePascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired and altered. Thestyle belongs to what is called modern Greek, introduced into Franceunder Charlemagne. The cupola of the chancel rests on circularpendentive arches springing from four granite columns which stoodformerly in the temple of Augustus. They were originally 2, but were cutinto 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal chapels are by H.  Flandrin, a native of +Lyons+. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of SaintBlandina, in which a short stair leads down to the crypt and thedungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, andBlandina, a converted slave, were kept before being tortured and put todeath in A. D. 177, during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, theimplacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. Square, was, as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on account of theoverflowing of the river the floors were filled up to their presentlevel. 

[Headnote: PARC DE LA TÊTE-D’OR. ]

The Parc de la Tête-d’Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N. E. Extremity of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and theleft bank of the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides anabundant supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic gardenwith hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and adairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale. Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In theBoulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection ofobjects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history, religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. Theinstitution publishes essays and translations. 

By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the largebarracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux. 

Lyons employs 70, 000 looms and 140, 000 weavers in the manufacture ofsilk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed onthe domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whomhas usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings, are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as canwork are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La CroixRousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the Saône. The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of looms, who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a finishedstate. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is estimatedat £15, 000, 000. 

[Headnote: THE DYEING OF SILK--ORIGIN OF LYONS. ]

The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. Manyexperiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and inparticular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain itscolour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which hereceived a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour. Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to abrown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand. Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of apermanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silkwere brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. Theworm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributedin the southern departments of the country, where now a large number ofpersons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk isnow very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture ofgauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries, foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, andhat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large tradeis carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring departments, and known as _marrons de Lyon_. 

The earliest Gallic occupants of the territory at the confluence of theRhône and the Saône were the Segusians. In 590 B. C. Some Greek refugeesfrom the banks of the Hérault, having obtained permission of the nativesto establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, called their new town bythe Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 B. C. Munatius Plancus brought aRoman colony to Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquiredimportance, and was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four greatroads. Augustus, besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre, gave it a senate and made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputiesfrom the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony ofForum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the_jus senatus_. The town, burnt by Nero in 59 A. D. , was rebuilt by him ina much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus. 

[Headnote: MONT-D’OR. CHEESE. ]

Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions fromLyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. From Lyons. Take the omnibus startingfrom the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, 3¼ m. , time 1½ hr. , by a road always ascending. Fare, ½ fr. The omnibusoffice at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on a wide terracecommanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is poor and dirty, and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont Ceindre walk from theomnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend by the telegraphposts, and then turn to the right. The ascent and descent can be doneeasily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to Lyons by the returningcoach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some houses, an old hermitage, anda chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. The view is grand, embracingthe valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the towns of Bugey andBeaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, and the Alps. MontCeindre, 1532 ft. Above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 ft. ; and Mont Houx, 2008 ft. , form together +Mont-d’Or+, a group of mountains covered withvineyards and meadows. The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of thebest and most celebrated in France. They are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches in diameter and half an inch thick, like round pancakes. They are made from a mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said toderive their peculiar flavour from the vine leaves on which the goatsfeed during a considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore(likewise famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in smallboxes. The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes byRoche-Cardon, a favourite retreat of J.  J. Rousseau. Another easyexcursion is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats)going up the Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boatgoing to St. Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank, 1½ m. Above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town ofCuire. In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which thebridge passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses, and the tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sailis the best part of the excursion, not the island. 

For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. South by the west bank of the Rhône, see p.  81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p.  346; Paris toLyons by Tarare, p.  348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p.  349, and map p.  27. 

[Headnote: VIENNE. ]

{338}{199}+VIENNE+, pop. 27, 000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, thecapital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains ofimportant edifices, which indicate that the citizens inhabiting it inthe days of Cicero were no strangers to the luxury and wealth precedingthe Augustan age. The most interesting of these is the +Maison Carrée+, an oblong temple of the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and hiswife Livia, 55 ft. High, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little waynorth from the cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terracefronting the chain bridge is +St. Maurice+, a beautiful Gothic cathedralcommenced in the 12th cent. , 315 ft. Long, and the roof of the nave 88ft. High. It contains some fine glass, and near the altar theskilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died in 1723. At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other end of thechain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up theRhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a stairleading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, where PontiusPilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life (itis said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About ¼ m. Down the Rhônefrom the railway station, by the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide del’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It is 52 feet high, andrises from four arches resting on a square basement. Columns withcushioned capitals ornament the four corners, which cannot date earlierthan the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial town, with importantwoollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. By rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On theother side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p.  81). 6 m. Farther S. By rail is LePéage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling villageamong vineyards, less than a mile E. From the station. From the Châteaude Roussillon Charles IX. Issued, in 1564, the decree that in future theyear was to commence with the first of January. 

[Headnote: ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON. ]

{356½}{180½}+ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON+, junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E. , byRives 35 m. , and Voiron 42 m. E.  Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m. W. , on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to Annonay (see page81, and map pages 26 and 46). 

5 m. S. By rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. _Inn:_Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the town is therestored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaureare the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of theDauphins, and the chapel of N. D. De Vals (see map, page 46). 

[Headnote: TAIN. ]

{368}{169}+TAIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on theRhône, immediately opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of thehill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety hasa fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxuriouswine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small. Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. On the rail between Valence and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13, 000. _Inns:_ Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000. 

[Headnote: VALENCE. ]

{384}{153}+VALENCE+, pop. 24, 000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The firstthe most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestantschools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. West. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on aneminence rising from the Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on thesite of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the PlaceChampionnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by François. Itcommands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In thedistance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. Inthis Place is the statue “au General Championnet, sorti des rangs dupeuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale. ” Died at Antibes 1800. 

To the left of the statue is the cathedral +St. Apollinaire+, built in1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower wererebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerableappearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves. A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over theround-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church byrestoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attachedCorinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement ofthe arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone. From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one beingoccupied by the organ. At the right or S. Side of the altar is the bustby Canova of Pope Pius VI. , who died at Valence in 1799. His remainswere removed to Rome. 

Outside, opposite the N. Transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral chapel(22 ft. Square and 25 ft. High) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. Oneach side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flatdome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, built in1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into thecourt are in a much better state of preservation. The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent. , and a picture gallery. 

[Headnote: VERNOUX. ]

 Rail to Grenoble, 62 m. N. E. , and to Chambery, 40 m. Farther. Omnibus daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach by St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. Vernoux, 1920 ft. Above the sea, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants. 

[Headnote: COACHES FROM VALENCE. ]

 Valence is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. Du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. From St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs. ; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see also pages 93 and 94). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ m. W. , passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the sun. 

ARDÈCHE. 

(See Map, page 46). 

 Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September. In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is potatoes sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a pleasant soup of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are required for the accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which each hamlet has at least 2, while the larger villages and towns have from 4 to 8, besides market-days. One of the prettiest sights in Ardèche is to see the people flocking from every direction along the winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is being held--many on foot driving small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, and often an old hen; others with carts loaded with potatoes; others travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and others on horseback, the women as well as the men being astride. 

 Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight forbidding, but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of things improves rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural products are potatoes and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, cultivated on terraces supported by low stone walls of rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are of a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured and light brown, with large bones and white horns generally tipped with black. 

 At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and grown-up women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above 8s. , and many only 2s. 6d. Or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman shears it off in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only a little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank, and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females during their long winters is lace-making. 

 Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The most central station of the diligences is Le Cheilard (see page 83). 

 After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. From Valence and 23½ m. N. From Avignon, begins the region of the olives. 

[Headnote: LIVRON. ]

{395}{142}+LIVRON+, pop. 4500, on the Drôme, at some distance from the station. Restaurants at station. Inns in the town. On the other side of theRhône, connected by railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ m. W. (see p.  82). A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from Livron, 68 m. East, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and Marseilles. As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the picturesque and well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is a large Protestant population, nearly every village having its Temple Protestant (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56). 

[Headnote: CREST. ]

 11 miles E. From Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, by the side of the river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The omnibuses of the two hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly on the Drôme and partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the foot, in the market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque. Straight up from the bridge by the R. Des Cordeliers, and a flight of 116 steps, is the entrance to the poor church of N. D. De la Garde, attached to the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the hospital and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the enclosure, on which stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly the remains of a castle which was added to it in the 13th cent. The highest side is 170 ft. Above the ground, and the other three 148 ft. , ascended by 260 steps. Although so high, the view is limited by the high side, into which visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives below in the town, near the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the first narrow street, left from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which continue to a stone lettered “limite de l’Octroi, ” whence ascend by the path, right, to the Calvary, where there is a splendid view of the valley of the Drôme. 

 [Map: Ardeche: Its Vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes]

[Headnote: SAOU. ]

 Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ m. S. W. (see Index); also to Beaufort, 12 m. N. E. , on the Geroanne. From the copious source of the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. 3 miles from Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach also to Bourdeaux, 16 m. S. , passing Saou, 9 m. S. From Crest (see map, p.  56). Saou, pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, is a poor dirty village on the Vebre. _Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed up with and built into the surrounding squalid houses are the remains of the abbey church and buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are within the court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th and 13th cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of the narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains, from 4000 to 5000 ft. Above the sea, with sand and limestone strata piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic forms. It is 8 m. Long, and from a few yards to 2 m. Wide. At the commencement or west end, and on the right or N. Side of the stream, is the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the other side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column. Mt. Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called the Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent. , and a little farther down a square house, with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best parts of the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its termination, where the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of 5324 ft. Above the sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At the foot of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley becomes so narrow that there is scarcely sufficient room for the stream to pass through. 2¼ m. Farther up is the villa of Tibur, and, a little beyond, the terminus of the valley. 

[Headnote: BOURDEAUX. DIEULEFIT. ]

 Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N. From Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, composed of squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping up the hill, crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the 8th cent. Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief industries. Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. From Dieulefit the courrier requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain ridge, the Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places. 

 Dieulefit, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ H. Du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the Jabron at the foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. From Montelimart, between which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a coarse kitchen ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to Montelimart are Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m. ; La Begude, 7½ m. ; under Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56). 

[Headnote: DIE. ]

CREST TO ASPRES (Maps, pp. 46 and 56). 

 _Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die. _--The road as far as the Pass de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town passed is Saillans, 9½ m. E. From Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. Farther, is Pontaix, similarly situated. 23 m. E. From Crest, and 34 m. W. From Aspres, is Die, pop. 4000, the principal town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the Mérosse. _Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes--the coach stops between them; Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank during its first year; in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach to Châtillon, 12 m. S. E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain surrounded by mountains, of which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz, 6648 ft. Above the sea, flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top is an undulating plateau, covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5 hrs. Required for the ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the rustic but not uncomfortable establishment of Sallières-les-Bains; pension per day, with baths, 9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses. ” The bath resembles a large oven, in which, after having been heated with resinous fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish bath. Open from 15th June to 15th September. The landlord is likewise proprietor of a large part of Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his supplies of fir-wood. On the top of a hill on the other side of the Drôme is a similar establishment, called the Martouret, pension 12 frs. The way to it strikes off the main road opposite the eminence, on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding a very good view of the valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at one of the old gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which makes the tour of the ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better gateway or Roman triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The parish church has been rebuilt, excepting the narthex. 

[Headnote: LUC. ASPRES. ]

 From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which changes horses at +LUC+ en Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; Église Protestante, 10½ m. S. From Die, or 23½ N. W. From Aspres. A poor town, among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. Farther up the valley is the village of Beaurières (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is now commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres, 15 m. S. From Luc, and 4923 ft. High. On the pass, 2 m. From Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall 195 ft. High. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best when 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is situated on the railway, 126½ m. N. From Marseilles, and 77½ m. S. From Grenoble. The coach sets down passengers either at the station or at the inn H.  Ferdinand. The church has been rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the tympanum a curious representation of the Trinity. 

[Headnote: MONTÉLIMART. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{412}{125}+MONTÉLIMART+, pop. 12, 000, situated at the confluence of the Roubionand Jabron with the Rhône. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; inthe town the Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil, on the W. Side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p.  49; Dieulefit, p.  47;Bourdeaux, p.  47; and Nyons, p.  50; is near the hotels Poste andPrinces. Up the Grande Rue is the principal church. On the opposite sideof it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in theHôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 ft. Wide, bearing inLatin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place, ” is the Temple Protestant. Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, “Nougat, ” of which the bestis in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an eminence on the side of thetown farthest from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour deNarbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement under the name of Montilium, which was changedafterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar by a powerful family, who came intopossession of it in the days of Charlemagne. To the same family belongedalso Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see page 92, and mappage 56). 

Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, 2½ m. S. E. Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S. E. From Montelimart; one by Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. Longer. (See map, page 56. )

 According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way between Montelimart and Grignan, “there existed down to 1802 the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII. On his Italian campaign, in 1494. ” The mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of France than the olive (see map, page 56). 

[Headnote: GRIGNAN. MARQUISE DE SÉVIGNÉ. ]

 +Grignan+, pop. 1900; _Inn:_ Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill on the top of which, 100 ft. Above the “Place, ” are the gardens and ugly half-ruined and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died. The former Salle du Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery, containing upwards of 300 paintings, among which the most interesting are--the portraits of Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About half-way up the hill is the church, commenced in the 12th cent. In front of the altar a white marble slab, 2½ ft. Long by 1½ wide, bears the following inscription:-- “Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696. ” Above the well, in the “Place, ” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About ½ m. From the town is what was one of her favourite walks to an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbière. To visit it, descend from the inn, then take the first byeroad right, by a row of poplars to a short stair. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. S. E. By Valréas and Taulignan. +Valréas+ (pronounce the “s”), 8¼ m. From Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ H. Du Nord, is partly surrounded with its old walls, garnished with square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N. W. From Nyons by Valréas and 11¼ m. By Rousset, _Inn:_ H. Du Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partly surrounded with its old walls. 

{420}{117}+DONZERE. + H. Du Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Fourand a half miles south is +Pierrelatte+ station, and the terminus of theunfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan. Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time 45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an interesting cathedral of the 12th cent. , restored. Many Roman relics have been found in the neighbourhood. 

[Headnote: LA CROISIERE. ]

{432}{105}+LA CROISIERE. + Two small inns at station. Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. De l’Europe, 3½ m. W. On the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. Fare, 40 c. The bridge is 2756 ft. Long, has 20 arches, was commenced in 1265 and finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at the W. End were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for the convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit, see page 98). 

 Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. By the valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. _Inn:_ Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures of fire-bricks and clay-tubing. 7½ m. E. , Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12 m. E. , Tulette, pop. 1300; _Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed here. 15¾ m. E. , St. Maurice, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons the coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H. Du Louvre; whence the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see map, page 56). 

[Headnote: NYONS. ]

 +NYONS+, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place; Voyageurs, in a corner. Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and therefore eminently fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The orange and palm do not grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine truffles. Silk mills and the preserving of fruit and truffles supply the principal industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on an eminence partly surrounded with its old walls garnished with square towers, 14th cent. The vieux château, or centre tower, has been converted by the curate into a chapel surmounted with an image of the “immaculately conceived. ” The part of the town below is called Les Halles, whose dirty streets are bordered with thick heavy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch and considerably higher in the centre than at the ends. 

[Headnote: THE PONTIAS BREEZE. ]

 Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is very cold, and blows from 5 P. M. To 9 A. M. In summer it is pleasant, and blows from 9 P. M. To 7 A. M. The peculiarity is, that the degree of force is constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave, commence from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the Rue Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last tower a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a small chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a pavilion. Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the part of the ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by this latter way retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path for 116 yards; while those who have come by the other go 116 yards beyond the chapel. Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be observed the thin ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is the entrance to the Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of insignificant dimension. Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are several crevices. The view of the valley of the Aigues from this hill is very beautiful. The ascent takes 35 minutes. 

NYONS TO SERRES. 

 +Nyons to Serres+ (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east by the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns passed are at a considerable height above the road, and sometimes on account of the steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first village passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. From Nyons, and 3½ m. From the gorge “Des 30 Pas, ” one of the excursions from Nyons. A little farther E. Is Curnier, on a hill on the S. Side of the river, here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill on the S. Side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road crosses to the S. Side of the river and arrives at the station for St. May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river to the village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. From Nyons on the Oule, at its junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. Side of the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. From Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. Farther or 15½ m. From Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret, whence the road descends to Serres by the N. Side of the Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. From Marseilles and 77½ S. From Grenoble (see p. 340). 

[Headnote: ORANGE. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{444}{93}+ORANGE+, pop. 10, 300. _Inn:_ H. De la Poste et des Princes. This, theArausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close tothe hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honourof Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A. D. 21. It standsE. And W. , is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. High, 64 wide, 27½ deep, and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft. And each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamentedwith six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a groovedCorinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in theshape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat. 

At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre atthe foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ ofNotre Dame, 12th cent. , is small, and resembles in style the churches ofthe S. W. Of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the greattype. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the buttresses, and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. A plain and uglysquare tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place del’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to “Raimbaud II. , Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem en MXCIX. ” In the promenade of thetown, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand andimposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built ina semicircular form, has a façade 118 ft. High and 384 ft. Wide. Thewall is 13 ft. Thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircularwall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of aquantity of rubbish. 

[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN. ]

In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably underRaimbaud I. , whose successor, Raimbaud II. , has just been noticed. Onthe death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third line of princes, the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René (Renatus) ofNassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor hiscousin William I. , stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The title“Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I. , William II. , and William III. After theRevolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party weredesignated Orangemen, from the title of their leader, William III. , Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. Seized the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of William III. Therewere two claimants--John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated byWilliam’s will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed to benearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will ofFrederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. Declared the principality aforfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to the Prince ofConti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should havethe _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty ofUtrecht (1713), which, however, left the title and coat of arms to theKing of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz vonOranien). John William Friso, however, also took the title, and hissuccessors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all beendesignated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast numbers of silkworms arereared at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E. , p.  49, and to Vaison17½ m. N. E. (Map p.  56. )

[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN. ]

 +Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. Du Commerce. 5 m. N. From Malaucene, 17½ m. N. From Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. From Nyons, 13½ m. W. From Le Buis, and 4 m. S. From Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. Span, having at the left side a more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI. , Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with round and early pointed arches and square tower at S. E. End. The view from the terrace is beautiful. 

 The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N. W. Is St. Quenin, while a little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches, there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone, excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent. , but the rest belongs to the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578. 

 Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes. The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof, also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th cent. ; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel, at the N. E. Side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a very beautiful cloister, 11th cent. , bearing some resemblance to the cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. High. At the corners is either a massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of the “Immaculée” on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map p. 56. )

[Headnote: SORGUES. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{455}{82}+SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junctionwith line to Carpentras, 10½ m. Eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10, 500, onan eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, theHôtel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are aportrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In thecentre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachied’Inguimbert. From this “Place, ” up the narrow street, the first publicbuilding is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405. The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside. Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a “Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the right hand of J. C. On the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of Mary painted on wood, 15th cent. , and behind the altar another “Coronation” by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and a crucifix in the “salle des assises. ” Within the court, right hand, is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft. High (but originally higher), 25½ ft. Wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft. Span. On the N. Side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From the top hangs the dress of a warrior. 

[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM. ]

 The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. High, of which only three sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI. , who also surrounded the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from N. W. To S. E. , with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The canal, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends from the Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost £90, 000. In the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of manuscripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and above 4000 vols. , for which there is not sufficient accommodation. In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B. C. , 19¼ in. Long by 13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot Mailly in 1646. 

[Headnote: TRUFFLES. ]

 Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured, or white. The last variety, principally found in the N. Of Italy, has the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from November to the end of March, after which those which remain become soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the largest may weigh ½ lb. , although few are of that size. They are sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour. 

[Headnote: ORTOLANS. ]

 The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month’s time they become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping them in a dark apartment till August. 

 Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots, ” a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. Square. The best maker is Eysseric. 

 Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences. 

 Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N. , by Vacqueyras 6½ m. , and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m. , by Malaucene 10 m. N. E. , and Vaison 15 m. By this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N. E. , passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N. W. By Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7½ m. N. On the Aigues. Coach to Sault 28½ m. E. 

 Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S. E. Coach daily to L’Ile 10½ m. S. , convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse. Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S. E. , by Venasque 7¼ m. S. E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66. )

[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX. ]

 Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8¾ m. N. E. , 900 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274 ft. , by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 m. From the village and the top 10 m. By the easy southern slope. Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary. Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little distance along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P. M. , and await the appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range, an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre de Bedouin, ” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village 2¾ m. N. E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up at different parts of the department. 

 [Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance]

[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE. ]

 Four and a half m. S. By omnibus from Carpentras is the village of +St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old château. Rooms from 1½ fr. To 3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat, breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr. First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study gratis; but in the guests’ room 1 fr. Each time. The baths are in the style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_térébenthiné_). It has a beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2¾ m. W. From Venasque and 2 m. From Le Beaucet (map p.  56). 

 Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N. E. , by Malaucene 10 m. N. E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N. W. Extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le Barroux on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. From Vaison and 13 m. S. W. From Buis, is +Malaucene+, 1000 ft. Above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Cours, in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. From the inn is the spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent. The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft. ; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft. ; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft. 

 The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with, in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake. Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien. No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good the length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St. Euphemie 7 m. E. , St. Auban 10 m. E. , Montguers 11¼ m. E. , Lacombe 13¼ m. E. , and Laborel 27 m. E. , after which the road descends to the railway by the valley of the Céans. 

[Headnote: LE BUIS. ]

 +LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a hollow on the Ouvèze surrounded by mountains covered with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form, either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right: for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the left, just before reaching the bridge. 

 [Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON. 

 +1. + Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a seminary. Below the Pope’s Palace is +B+, the Place de l’Hotel de Ville, with the H. De Ville and theatre. The street +C C+, extending southward to the principal station, is called the R. De la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind, +3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little farther S. W. Is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Musée Calvet, and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien, a museum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph’s College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers, where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+, beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road to the cemetery. A short way E. From the Place de l’Hotel de Ville is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the Celestins, founded by Clement VII. In 1879; entrance from the Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur. 17. Prison. 18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture. 22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais. B, Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie. J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. M, Porte du Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de l’Oulle. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{461}{76}+AVIGNON+, pop. 39, 000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls, garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on theRhône, 2 m. Above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. N. E. From+Nîmes+ by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and Remoulins. _Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in thecentre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. TempleProtestant in the R.  Dorée, near the Préfecture. Cabstands at stationand in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 2 frs. Per hour. From the station, a beautiful avenue, the Cours de la République, leads up to the Place del’Hôtel de Ville, with statue “au brave Crillon, ” the friend of HenriIV. , “Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel del’infanterie française, ” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is theroad leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. DesDomes, and the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with theramparts, compose the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of thepalace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Oppositegate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. Thechurches are closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the publicon Sundays between 12 and 4. 

[Headnote: AVIGNON PALACE. ]

The present +Palace+, commenced by Benedict XII. In 1336, and finishedby Gregory XI. In 1370, is an ugly huge structure, consisting of plainwalls 100 ft. High and 14 thick, strengthened by long ungainlybuttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, are the armsof Clement VI. ; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, the balcony fromwhich the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is the Courd’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, pierced by from3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of the same size. From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur, a groined staircase, ofwhich the steps were formerly of marble, to the Salle Consistorialed’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before this hall was dividedinto two, it was 52 ft. High, 65½ wide, and 170 long. From it we enterthe Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone Memmi of Sienna. Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the left the smallwindow for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby tunnelled in thewall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie de Conclave, theSalle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then enter the Tour St. Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, or the chapel of the+Inquisition+, with mural paintings. In the story immediately below isthe chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through alarge hall, we enter an octagonal room, gradually narrowing towards thecentre, till it forms a chimney-tower, called the Tour Strapade. Somesay this was the torture room; but it is evidently more suited for akitchen, which in all probability it was. Adjoining is the Glacière, into whose underground cellars, now built up, the democrats of 1791flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had murdered. From this weenter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour Trouillas, in which Rienziwas imprisoned five years, bound to a chain fixed to the roof of hiscell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 to 1234, and till 1793, the half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical edifices, whichtolled daily 300 bells, and had among them a daily succession ofreligious processions. 

[Headnote: ROCHER DES DOMS. CATHEDRAL. ]

From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, the+Rocher des Doms+; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as apublic garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, whointroduced, in 1766, the culture of the “garance, ” the _Rubiatinctoria_, now superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace astair leads down to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet (see page 63). Inthe middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and on the other sideare the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above itthe Fort St. André. On the promenade is the Cathedral+Notre-Dame-des-Doms+, 194 feet above the Rhône, approached by a staircalled the Pater, because originally it had as many steps as there arewords in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has undergone many changes, andbelongs to various periods. The portal and lower part of the tower areof the 10th cent. , and are due to Fulcherius. The nave is two centurieslater. The apse was added in 1671. The most remarkable part of thestructure is the cupola, terminating in an octagonal lantern, andsupported on pendentive arches. It bears traces of frescoes painted in1672. In the sanctuary is the marble throne used by the Popes, in thesacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII. , and in one of the sidechapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (right hand) is aMadonna in white marble, by Pradier. The sacristan is generally in thesmall room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ fr. For showing the church andthe tomb. 

Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end atram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other sideof the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the eastern end ofthe town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts every hour fromthe corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops at the east endof the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous. 

[Headnote: ST. AGRICOL. MUSÉE CALVET. ]

In the “Place” the principal edifice is the +Hôtel de Ville+, built in1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th cent, of which all thatremains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard and his wife, from thetwo figures which strike the hours. Next the Hôtel de Ville is thetheatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. Agricol+, 1340, thepatron saint of Avignon. To the right on entering is the tomb of thepainter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April 1725, aged 86, and third chapel onsame side is a virgin and child in wood by Coysevox. To the left of theentrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the foot ofthe short street St. Agricol, in the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, builtin 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue Calade is the +Musée Calvet+, containing avaluable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from12 to 4, and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday. Against the wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of thismuseum, Claud François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. Onthe right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 toLaura de Sade, dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of theCordeliers (see p.  62). On the other side is the tomb of the militarystrategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the outer court, and in therooms and passages on the ground-floor, are Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin inscriptions, found in theneighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p.  53). Among thesculptures in relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horseswith their hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent. , from Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and theRenaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churchesand convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope Urbain V. , of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal Palice. Withinrailings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, and a bather byEsparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is a valuablecollection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20, 000 coins and medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes duringtheir residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition whilehere. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings, including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictureshave the artists’ names affixed. Those in the great hall are by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A.  Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F.  Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. AndN.  Mignard, J. And P.  Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun. , Veronese, Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small roomare the paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a fewby Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. In the centre of an inner room, containing the medals and engravings, isthe famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, exceptingthe arms, a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is saidthat Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art. Continuing down the R.  Calade to the other side of the R.  Petrarque orde la République, we have on the right the Museum of Natural History inthe church St. Martial, 15th cent. [Headnote: REQUIEN. ] The greater partof the specimens were bequeathed by M.  Requien, d. 1851, and of them themost interesting are those connected with the neighbourhood, such as theflamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the fossils from Aix. In theeastern continuation of the R.  Calade, at No. 62 R. Des Lices, is theCollége +Saint Joseph+, containing within its grounds all that remains(the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of the church of theCordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired, andis now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely admitted. It is to the leftof the entrance. Of the tomb there are no vestiges, having beendestroyed along with the church by an infuriated mob in 1791. On the E. Side of the R.  Petrarque, by the narrow R.  Prévot, is the church of +St. Dedier+, 1355, containing, in first chapel right from entrance, a reliefin marble representing Christ bearing his cross, executed by Francescoin 1481 at the request of King René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft. Above the floor, is a stone pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The graveof St. Bénézet is under a plain slab in the middle of the nave, in frontof the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent. ; andto the east of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre(9 in plan), 1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. Thepictures about the high altar are by N.  Mignard, J. And P.  Parrocel, andSimon de Châlons. From the S. E. Corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, the R. Des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie andCarréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town+hospital+ (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built in thelast century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354. Here, outside the town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to theleft, is the Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side ofthe entrance. [Headnote: J.  S. MILL. ] In a corner at the end of a shortavenue of pine trees is the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill, b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th May 1873. In the same grave is interred HarrietMill, his beloved wife, who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe, Nov. 3, 1858. A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies thewhole surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may betaken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint, and architect, +Bénézet+, who before had constructed one over theDurance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 ft. Longand 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain. On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics of St. Bénézet were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier. 

[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON. ]

+Avignon to Villeneuve. +

Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station, whileevery hour an omnibus crosses for +Villeneuve-les-Avignon+, pop. 3100, 2½ m. From the “Place, ” or 1¼ m. From the Pont station. Near the parishchurch, 14th cent. , is the Hospital, containing, in the chapel to theleft, the mausoleum of Innocent VI. , under a loftyelaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairsis the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picturebelongs to the 15th or 16th cent. , painted on wood, and represents twosubjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two differentartists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads, even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the mostcharming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. De Ganges attired asa nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married theMarquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV. , where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death shemarried the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, whereher sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law, the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion shesteadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made herdrink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying onthe ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven timeswith his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament tobe broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection byMignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno. Fee, 1 fr. , given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in the14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing extraordinary. Near it are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on aneminence Fort André, now inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus forAvignon starts every hour at the hour, from the apsidal end of theparish church of Villeneuve. 

Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the Mistral, yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, “Avenioventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa, ” the odours from thedrains in some of the streets being very offensive. 

Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it wasforcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under GeneralCartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery, the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month inthis town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade, opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire. ”

[Headnote: AVIGNON TO NÎMES. L’ISLE. ]

+Avignon to Nîmes. +

Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N. E. From Nîmes by rail, starting fromthe Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those wishingto visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets for thePont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with luggage, it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, without lossof time on arriving, take other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving theluggage behind. Time will generally be saved by returning from the Pontto Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. By the road, but 5 m. By the rail. SeeMap, p.  56. For Nîmes see p.  101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p.  104. Consult the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting. 

[Headnote: L’ISLE. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE. ]

+Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle. +

From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. Eastward, by the villageof Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L’Isle, pop. 7000, a village on theSorgues, with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsomereredos over high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argentdates from the 11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Islehotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and takethem to Vaucluse and back for 4 frs. Each. From the village of Vaucluse, pop. 600, take for the fountain the road on the right bank of stream, but for the house and garden of Petrarch take the left side, crossingthe bridge. On the left side, against a cliff near the cloth mill, is asmall house on the site of Petrarch’s, of which it is a copy. Before it, is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s garden. On the other side of theSorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a little hotel at Vaucluse, theHôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is thesource of the river Sorgue, the placid +Fontaine de Vaucluse+, about 30yards in diameter-- “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still, that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins andwater ends. ” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able tocontain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade intothe bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rockcrowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend CardinalPhilippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following descriptionof the site:-- “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; onanother by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day heats, andwhich never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its friendly shade;but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance asurly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds--these are my delights. My table is also graced withthe fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my greatest pleasuresto watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw them myself. Allabout me is changed. I once used to dress myself with care; now youwould believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house resembles that ofFabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The house of my servantadjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and when I have no more needof him he returns home. ”

[Headnote: PETRARCH. ]

On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of AvignonLaura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived aromantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautifulvision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France, Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returnedto bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse. 

Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to 18frs. ; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price. 

20½ m. From Avignon by rail is Cavaillon (p.  66), whence a branch lineextends 20 m. E. To Apt, another line 27 m. S. E. To Pertuis on theMarseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22½ m. S. To +Miramas+(p.  76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p.  66. )

[Headnote: APT. ]

AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT. 

 40½ m. E. By rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is +Apt+, pop. 7000, on the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered hollow surrounded by mountains and calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The *Louvre; des Alpes. The principal industries are agriculture, pottery, and the making of preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as that on which the sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to soak from 2 to 8 months in a strong solution of white sugar, in uncovered “terrines, ” like small basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such as oranges, are pricked before being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is near the station, to the left on descending the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in thick beds close to the establishment, and resembles that of Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting fire, and is therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen pottery. M. Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea services, of which the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the establishment of L. A. Esbérard, who confines himself almost exclusively to kitchen pottery. 

 The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower. Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent. , said to contain the bones of the mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which many are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque (_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E. , passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E. , and Reillanne, on the top of a hill, 5 m. Farther. Manosque is on the rail between Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66. )

 +Cavaillon to Miramas+, 22½ m. S. (see map, p.  66), across a fertile plain, with vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees. +Cavaillon+ (pop. 8000). _Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station. Cavaillon is a pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on the Durance at the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an ancient triumphal arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th cents. , with a cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the neighbourhood. 4¼ m. S. From Cavaillon is +Orgon+ (pop. 3000. _Inns:_ Paris; Poste), on the Durance. 11 m. Farther S. Is +Salon+ (pop. 7100. _Inns:_ Poste; Croix de Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town, dealing largely in first-class olive oil, has still remnants of its old ramparts: a church, St. Michel, of the 13th cent. , another, St. Laurent, of the 14th, and a castle of the same date. In the town is a fountain to the memory of Adam de Craponne, the engineer of the canal. (For Miramas, see p. 75. )

 [Map: The Mouths of the Rhone]

[Headnote: TARASCON. MARTHA’S TOMB. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{474}{63}+TARASCON+, pop. 11, 000. _Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs, the Luxembourg; in the town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch toNîmes, 17 m. W. , and 31 m. Farther Montpellier. Below the station is alarge hospital for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by ClercMolière. Tarascon is an unimportant town on the Rhône, oppositeBeaucaire, and connected with it by a chain bridge 1450 feet long. Inthe church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent. , is an ancient crypt, just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of Lazarus, whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the peaceful-lookingmarble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of the place says shehad come with her maid from Aix, at the request of the inhabitants, tokill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a bull’s, and havingsucceeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, after her deathburied her in this place. A few steps from the church, by the side ofthe river, rises the massive strong square castle, begun in 1400 andfinished by the Roi René, now used as a prison. On the opposite side ofthe river, overlooking Beaucaire, are the more picturesque ruins of thecastle of Montmorency, whose adjoining garden forms one of the manypromenades of the people of Beaucaire. Beaucaire is a poor town withpoor houses. The formerly famous fair, commencing on July 1, has becomenow of little importance. It is held in the broad avenue between thecastle and the Rhône. 

[Headnote: ST. REMY. LES BAUX. ]

9½ m. East from Tarascon by rail is +St. Remy+, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Hôteldu Cheval Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired forLes Baux, 6 m. S. W. , 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and Mont-Majour, 19 m. Distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel Cheval Blanc, by the highroad, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the commercial stations of thePhœnician traders from Marseilles, before it fell into the possession ofthe Romans, who have left here two remarkable monuments, of which themore perfect consists of an open square tower standing on a massivepedestal, and surmounted by a peristyle of ten columns surrounding twostatues representing the parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family ofthe Julii, by whom it was erected. It is 50 ft. High; the faces of thestatues look to the north. The sculpture on the north side of thepedestal represents a cavalry fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west, a combat between infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated, “Victory crowning a wounded soldier. ” Alongside stands a triumphal arch, of which the most perfect portions are the coffered panellings of thesoffit. 

6 m. S. W. From St. Remy is +Les Baux+, the ancient Castrum de Baucis, pop. 100. _Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in485, occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by natureinto bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured byancient art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now artand nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry liecheek-by-jowl with masses of the rough-hewn rock; fallen cavern vaultsare heaped round fragments of fan-shaped spandrel and clustered columnshaft; the doors and windows of old pleasure rooms are hung with ivy andwild fig tapestry; while winding staircases start midway upon the cliffand lead to vacancy. High overhead, suspended in mid-air, hangchambers--lady’s bower or poet’s singing room--now inaccessible, thehaunt of hawks and swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb-- “cette villeen monolithe, ” as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scoopedout of one mountain block--live a few poor people, foddering theirwretched goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting theirmud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Bauxroad to Fontvieille, 7 m. ; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles (seemap, page 66). 

[Headnote: ARLES. ]

{483}{54}+ARLES+, pop. 26, 000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in thePlace du Forum. Arles is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in amarshy place, as its original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words, “Ar lach, ” damp place, indicates. It is said to have been founded 900years before Marseilles, 700 years before Rome, and 1500 before thebirth of Christ. The ramparts and walls rising from the public gardensand the Boulevard des Aliscamps are chiefly the work of the EmperorConstantine, who came to Arles with his family and mother, Saint Helena. He built by the side of the Rhône a superb palace, called afterwards“de la Trouille, ” because opposite a ferry-boat, which was pulled ordragged from one side of the river to the other. Of this palace littlemore remains than the attached tower La Trouille, constructed ofalternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th August 312 his wifeFaustina presented him with a son, Constantine II. , who succeeded hisfather in May 357. He commenced the Forum, but was shortly after killedin battle defending himself against his brother Constance, who usurpedthe throne and finished the Forum. All that remains of this formerlysplendid edifice are the two Corinthian columns, with part of thepediment encrusted into the wall of the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied thesite of the Place du Forum, called also the Place des Hommes, becauselabourers and men-servants used to be hired in this “Place. ”

In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 onthe site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. Thespacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of thesebaths, although in later times they seem to have been used as anossuary. 

 [Map: Arles]

Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, now theArchæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi, urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, those of thePagans having the letters D. M. , _Diis manibus_. Also some of the longlead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius Porthinus fac. , ”which helped to bring water from the fountain at the foot of the hill onwhich Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is a torse of Mithrasof white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in 1598 on the siteof the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the body, and between thecoils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite corner is an altar inCarrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae, ” found under the churchLa Major. On the front face is a garland of oak leaves and acorns, and 7inches distant from each other two human ears. Near it is a good head ofAugustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About the centre of the room isa recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine skin under his arm. 

In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. High, hewnby the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in theCircus at the S. W. Corner of the town; but of it no vestiges remain. 

[Headnote: ST. TROPHIME. ]

Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221, consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which arestatues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanumis Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists. In the interior the door on the S. Side of the choir leads out to thecloister, of which the N. Side belongs to the 9th, the south to the16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent. 

Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, wearrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, andfinished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin, originally 335 ft. In its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthiancolumns 30 ft. High, and the base of other two, which formed part of theproscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators, with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the mostvaluable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open tothe public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to strangers. 

[Headnote: AMPHITHEATRE. ]

A short way N. E. Is the far grander and more imposing +Amphitheatre+ orLes Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius Nero, B. C. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. Long and 132 wide, surrounded by adouble wall 60 ft. High, each with two stages of arches, and in eachstage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers of stone seats, capable of containing 23, 438 spectators. The stone steps leading up tothem were 1½ ft. High and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were besides above150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the theatre, and 100dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by the Saracens in the8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, when a multitude ofspectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the galleries. A splendidview of the amphitheatre, the city, and of the commencement of the deltaof the Rhône, is had from the western tower. The entrance into theamphitheatre is by the north gate. The doorkeeper lives in a house alittle to the left of the gate. This grand ruin should, if possible, bevisited by moonlight; yet during the day the beautiful masonry is moreeasily examined. It is the great sight in Arles, and it is better toomit all the others than to do this one hurriedly. 

The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts ofArles, is a triangular plain of 180, 000 acres extending to theMediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the eastby the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, withextensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. Itis best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St. Louis on the mouth of the great Rhône. (See p.  72, and map, p.  66. )

[Headnote: ELYSEI CAMPI. TROPHIMUS. ]

S. E. Above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent. , on thesite of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down theBoulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. Thefirst ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of themonastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each sideby 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins withoutlids. This, the Elysei Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divestedof all its valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. AsJ.  C. Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of thecemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would beespecially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to burytheir friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. Coffins withtheir dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône, of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end ofthe avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapelfounded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s converts, who wassent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end to humansacrifices. Among the first things he is said to have done was toconsecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus from a heathen into aChristian burial-place, and add to it a little chapel. An old Arleswriter alleges on his own authority that Trophimus dedicated this chapelto Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 years in this diocese hedied on the 29th of November 94, and was buried in the little chapel hehimself had built. Among the successors of Trophimus were Ambrose in160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in 220, who died 10 yearsafterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years afterwards; Marcien in252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. Cyprien in 253. SaintVirgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the church of St. Honoratbeside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church dates only from the12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, excepting thefoundations, is the apsidal termination, which is semicircular, with 4pilasters and a small window in the centre to give light to theofficiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry in two arcadedstages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper calls a smallchapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel of Trophimus. 

[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. ]

The Picture Gallery, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure, near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to thetown by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. At Arles 1760, d. 1833. Onpicture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next thepicture gallery is the school of design. 

Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E. , passing Mont-Majour 4 m. E.  Fontvieille is 7 m. S. W. From Les Baux by a good road. Junction atArles with line to Aigues-Mortes, 36 m. S. W. , and to Montpellier, 58 m. S. W. ; Cette is 17 m. Farther. (See map, p.  66. )

[Headnote: MONT-MAJOUR. ]

4 m. Eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and abbeyof Mont-Majour, all in a good state of preservation, excepting thedomestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The concierge lives in a housenear the station. Fee, 1 fr. He generally shows first the church, 11thcent. , and the spacious crypt below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church arethe cloisters, 11th cent. , of the same kind as those of St. Trophime, but more interesting and more perfect, and containing the tombs of someof the counts of Anjou. Next is the beautiful square dungeon tower, nearly as perfect as when erected in 1374. It is 262 ft. High, isascended by 137 steps, and commands a wide prospect. From this, a stairleads down the face of the hill to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus, principally hewn in the soft limestone cliff. Standing apart at the baseof the hill is St. Croix, dedicated in 1019, consisting of foursemicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting from a squaretower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille (Hôtel duCommerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous sandstone. 

[Headnote: PORT SAINT LOUIS. ]

 +Arles to Port Saint Louis+, at the mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S. By steamer on the Great Rhône. Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines. Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass which cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that not a village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p.  70. )

 +Port Saint Louis+ (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. From Port Bouc, consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of the canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône. This canal is 2½ m. Long, 196 ft. Wide, and 22 ft. Deep. To understand the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed to every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis, ” whence the plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals, appears literally like a map. The only villages seen in the vast expanse are Fos, on a hill, and near it the Port Bouc. 

 Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from Marseilles. 

 23 m. S. W. From Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent. , surrounded by fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good sculpture. 

 For +Arles to Port Bouc+, 29 m. S. , see p.  76. The steamer sails from the S. W. Corner of Arles (see map, page 66). 

[Headnote: ST. GILLES. LUNEL. ]

 11¼ m. W. By rail from Arles is +St. Gilles+, pop. 7000. Hôtel du Cheval-Blanc. A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes, near the Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered a good specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a bald wall with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are three semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on two single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but the pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque animals in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches of the portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints, separated from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a nave and two aisles, is 290 ft. Long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N. Aisle a stair of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with semicircular arches on short massive piers. From the centre 7 more steps descend to the tomb of St. Gilles. All the characteristics of this church are equally well represented in St. Trophime of Arles. 

 16¾ m. Farther W. , or 28 m. From Arles by rail, is +Lunel+, pop. 7300. _Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of narrow streets, with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The church is constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and Perpignan. On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The first-class vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to 18°, are all on the neighbouring gravelly eminences. 

[Headnote: AIGUES-MORTES. ]

 8 m. S. By rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of +AIGUES-MORTES+, “stagnant waters, ” pop. 4300, 4 m. From the Mediterranean, and 4 ft. Above it, and connected with it by a navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is of great historical interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old embrasured wall in France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 yds. Long by 149 yds. Broad. It is 36 ft. High, and is flanked by 15 towers. On the western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, 96 ft. High and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed circular chambers, used by Louis XIV. And Louis XV. As prisons for their Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties that the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for them, but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the highly interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône, whence the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has not, receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis--we think not. Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint Louis, who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it the most suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for Palestine. On 25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place; and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition, the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. S. From Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the bathing station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see map, page 66). 

 49 m. N. From Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page 105. )

 96½ m. W. From Marseilles, 43 m. W. From Arles, 31 m. S. W. From Nîmes, and 15 m. S. W. From Lunel, is

[Headnote: MONTPELLIER. ]

 +MONTPELLIER+, on the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. Above the sea and 7 miles from it. Pop. 56, 000. _Hotels:_ H.  Nevet, the best and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the same side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and the Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays. Adjoining is the Lycée. 

 In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. Du Midi, the next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H.  Cheval Blanc, frequented by commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. De la Gare. In the fine broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Place de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second class. Their omnibuses await passengers. 

 Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume. From the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de la Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below the prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, p.  66. )

[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS. ]

 The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the citadel. At the N. W. Angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a line of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the Botanic Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, founded in the reign of Henri IV. , and for some years under the direction of the famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 acres, divided into three parts: at the N. End is a nursery; at the S. , in a hollow, surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these two divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once famous +École de médecine+, said to have been founded by Arab physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent. , with additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez, 1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts of the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the college and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also valuable anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with 55, 000 vols. Adjoining is the +Cathedral+ of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th cents. , but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White marble statue of Mary and child by Canova. 

 Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place du Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold weather invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower terrace of this “Place, ” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western end of the Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian building, which receives and distributes through the town the water brought from the fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. From Montpellier. The aqueduct, which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite hill, consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. High and 2896 ft. Long. The gate at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with statues of Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked streets, are the Mairie and the markets. 

[Headnote: MUSÉE FABRE. ]

 A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also on the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the +Musée Fabre+, the Bibliothèque publique with 65, 000 vols. , and the “Collection de la Société archéologique. ” The Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays and feast days, contains, among many works of inferior merit, some good pictures by great artists, such as Berghem, Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L.  David, G. Dow, Van Dyck, Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P. Veronese, Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. The library contains some curious MSS. Connected with, the Stuarts, which belonged to Prince Charles Edward. 

 Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the principal industries. 

 From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line extends through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m. South (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume and linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. 3 m. From Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the mineral water establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and sedative. Good for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. North from Montpellier is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu (pop. 500) to the height of 680 ft. , commanding an extensive view, and having on the top a chapel visited by pilgrims. 

 From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. To Faugères on the line from Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, page 27. )

[Headnote: FRONTIGNAN. CETTE. ]

 109½ m. From Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is +Frontignan+, pop. 3000. Possessing 570 acres of vineyards producing rich amber-coloured, luscious, and spirituous wines, made principally from the clairette and picardan grapes. The neighbouring marshes yield annually about 50, 000 tons of salt. 

 114 m. From Marseilles is +Cette+, pop. 29, 000. At this point the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du Midi, and consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to Toulouse and Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Midi. ” Cette is 271 m. East from Pau, 266 from Bordeaux, and 84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await passengers. _Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette makes a pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt. Setius, 590 ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest part of the Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is magnificent. In front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with its villages. At the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond Frontignan. The Port of Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds. Long, which encloses a harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two jetties; the western, constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. Long, and the eastern 548 yds. This busy port, besides having an extensive carrying trade, has a large wine manufactory, where above 100, 000 pipes of imitations of all the well-known wines are made annually, by mixing different wines with each other. 

 From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway bridge) a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze, on Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade. Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. A quart contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the chloride of magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 grains of the sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 to 9 fr. , and the bath treatment 4½ fr. Additional. The Canal du Midi enters Lake Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. From Cette. (See map, page 27. )

[Headnote: MIRAMAS. PORT BOUC. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{503}{34}+MIRAMAS+, pop. 900, south from the station at the head of the ÉtangChamas. At the station there are a small inn and a large plantation ofalmond trees, which, when in flower, exhale a delightful perfume. Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon and L’Isle change carriages here(p.  65). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. South. 

MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC. 

+Miramas to Port Bouc+ by rail through a flat plain (see map, p.  66). The two most important towns passed on the way are: +Istres+, 6¼ m. FromMiramas station and 10 N. From Port Bouc, pop. 4000, founded in the 8thcent. On Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of its ancientramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt and of thecarbonate of soda. 13¼ m. From Miramas is +Fos+ (Fossae Marianae), pop. 1100, on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent. At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large tanks for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by rail, or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29 miles S. From Arles by the canal, is +Port Bouc+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ near the stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du Commerce; near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang Caroute, near the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is an important fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour. At the end of the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of 10 m. At the other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive square tower in the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west from Port Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. Louis, page 72. (For Port Bouc to Martigues and Marseilles, see p.  118. )

 +Port Bouc to Arles+, 29 m. S. By the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs; fare, 3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. Wide and 8 deep. The embankments are very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about ½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. Passengers drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors at the S. W. Corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map p.  66. )

[Headnote: SAINT CHAMAS. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{506½}{30½}+SAINT CHAMAS+ (Sanctus Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. From thestation. It is situated on the N. End of the Étang de Berre, and onboth sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced withexcavations. The Government have one of their most important powdermanufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. From the Hôtel de Ville isthe Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre, with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. Span and about22 ft. High. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthianpilaster surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice. On the top at each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch areapparently ready to spring eastward, and the other two westward. Thebridge is in a state of perfect repair, but the sculpture andinscription on the two arches over the entrances are slightly effaced. The road to it is by the Hôtel de Ville and the parish church with arudely sculptured “Pieta” over the portal. The bridge is to the E. OfSt. Chamas, and is well seen from the railway, especially when crossingthe viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, which carry the rail over thelittle valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. E. From St. Chamas is Berrestation. The town, pop. 2100, is directly south, on +Lake Berre+, a sheet of water 14 m. Long and 38 in circumference. 

[Headnote: ROGNAC. ]

{519½}{17½}+ROGNAC+, pop. 900. Junction with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E. , passing underthe Roquefavour aqueduct, 7½ m. E.  The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft. Of water per second from the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouringplain, commences opposite Pertuis, directly north from Marseilles. It is94 m. Long, of which more than 15 are under ground; it has a fall of 614ft. , traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of limestone hills, and crossesnumerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the largest crosses the ravineof the river Arc at Roquefavour. This aqueduct is 270 ft. High on threetiers of arches, is 1312 ft. Long, 44½ ft. Wide at the base, and 14 ft. Wide at the water-way. It consists of 51, 000 cubic yards of masonry, andcost £151, 394, while the cost of the whole canal from the Durance to thesea, near Cape Croisette, a little to the east of Marseilles, has been£2, 090, 000. A branch from the principal channel throws 198, 000 gallonsper minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise byirrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in thebasins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind thePalais de Longchamp. (See p.  114, and for the course of the canal, mapspp.  66 and 123. )

To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, passunder the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path andpartly by steps to the house of the concierge. 

[Headnote: AIX. HÔTEL DE VILLE. CATHEDRAL. ]

 16½ m. E. From Rognac, or 33 m. N. From Marseilles by Rognac, but only 18 m. N. By Gardanne, is +Aix+-en-Provence, pop. 29, 000. _Hotels:_ Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east end of the Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the Hôtel du Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the France; at the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph offices in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite the Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was founded 120 B. C. By the Consul Sextius Calvinus around the thermal springs, which he himself had discovered. The temperature of the water is 95° F. , and the ingredients, iron and iodine, the carbonates, sulphates, and chlorides of soda and magnesia, together with an organic bituminous matter strongly impregnated with glairine. The establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours Sextius. Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the Cours René is a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi, ” king of Naples, Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and buried at Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, was a poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up to the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV. , the Palais de Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the church of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the host. A little higher up are the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1640; the Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower, bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de Ville is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble statue of Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also the public library with 100, 000 vols. Among the MSS. Is the prayer book of King René, with illustrations said to have been done by himself. No. 569 is a small 4to volume, with copies of letters written by Queen Mary Stuart. The first 57 pages relate to her early history. At page 645 commences a defence of her conduct, written by a warm partisan of the queen. The street, ascending through the gateway of the clock tower, leads to the university buildings, the palace of the archbishop, and the Cathedral of +Saint Sauveur+, built in the 11th cent. , partly on the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195 ft. High, was built in the 15th cent. , and the chancel in 1285. The façade was commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great entrance door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain outer door. In the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an octagonal chapel with six antique marble and two granite Corinthian columns about 30 ft. High, each shaft being of one stone. The ornamental sculpture on the panels and in the spandrels is by Puget. On the same side are two triptychs, one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by Saints, ” and the other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school, representing in the centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in a clump of trees. On one wing is King René on his knees, attended by the Magdalene, St. Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is the king’s second wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron saints. On the outside of the shutters are the angel Gabriel and Mary. 

 On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511, representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11, 000 virgins presented by Nicolas V. In 1458, a rib of St. Sebastian presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our Lord. 

[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. ]

 The last street at the S. E. End of the Cours René leads directly to the church of St. Jean and the +Picture Gallery+ adjoining; free on Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th cent. By the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. High. To the left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de Provence. 

 On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi, inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have either labels or numbers. 

 The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons, ” are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged is--the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked, by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre. 

[Headnote: RIANS. MEYRARGUES. ]

 (For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123. ) Coach daily from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N. E. , passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. E.  The castle, 14th cent. , and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. Of the culminating point, 3175 ft. Above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains. +Rians+, pop. 2900, _Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. From Marseilles, and 155½ S. From Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N. , with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. Beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles+ (pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. Above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René. 

 +Meyrargues+ (pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from Rians. 

[Headnote: DILIGENCES. BRANCH LINES. ]

 Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W. , passing by La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. W.  Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p.  66. ) 5 m. N. E. From Pelissanne is Lambesc. 

 Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best way is to go on to the next station N. From Aix, La Calade, where a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N. W. , and Lambesc, 3½ m. Farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. De la Vie, visited by pilgrims. +Lambesc+, 14 m. From Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal industries. 

 7 m. S. From Aix, and 11 m. N. From Marseilles, is +Gardanne+, pop. 3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules, 52 m. S. E. , on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under Carnoules, p. 142. )

From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts atVitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. From Rognac. 3¼ m. S. From Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. From Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see p.  66), 12¾ m.  E. 

Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7 miles northfrom Marseilles, is the station of +L’Estaque+, a village on the sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valleyof the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2dDecember 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV. , to the gloryof which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of threebrothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor stonemason, who died whilePierre was still a boy. 

+Marseilles+ (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principalhotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrivalside of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side ofthe railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but theprices are rather more than moderate. 

+LYONS TO NÎMES. +

172 m. South by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins, Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil, Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles. 

 Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66. 

 miles from LYONS miles to NÎMES

{ }{172}NÎMES

+LYONS+: start from the Perrache station. The train after passingOullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. From Lyons, pop. 1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle convertedinto a school. 4 m. Farther is +Givors-canal+, where the Nîmes lineseparates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W.  The canal of Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. Long, and is used chiefly by the coalbarges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The trainnow proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. From Lyons, pop. 1400, famous forchestnuts, and then 8 m. Farther down the Rhône to +Ampuis+ (oppositeVaugris), pop. 2000, H. Du Nord, producing apricots, melons, andchestnuts, and possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which46 acres belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines ofFrance, remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. Itis a little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. Farther south byrail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious whitewines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. From Lyons is Chavanay, pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ H.  Commerce;Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. From Chavanay by coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of Virieux castle. 7 m. Farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway viaduct of 66 arches. 

{39¼}{132¾}+PEYRAUD+, pop. 400. Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W. , and toGrenoble, 60 m. E. By Rives and Voreppe. +Annonay+, pop. 16, 500, builtin the hollow and on the sides of the surrounding mountains, at theconfluence of the Déôme and the Cance. _Inn:_ H.  Midi, in the principalsquare, occupying the centre of the low town. The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed the best in France. 27 m. N. W. From Annonay by coach, traversing a beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends 9¾ m. To Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_ France. Bourg, as the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. Farther the road passes the castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. From St. Etienne, and La Rivière 2 m. 17½ m. By rail from Annonay is Tournon. 

[Headnote: TOURNON. ]

56½ m. S. From Lyons, 115½ N. From Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with whichit is connected by two suspension bridges, is +Tournon+, pop. 6100, onthe Rhône. Hôtel de l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite thelanding-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easilyreach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotelis the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is onlofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principalindustries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs. , ascending all the way(see p.  83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W. ; to St. Agrève, 9¼hrs. W. ; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. 3 m. N. From Tournonis Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p.  46. )

{65½}{106½}+SAINT PERAY+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ H. Du Nord. Omnibus at station. Alsoomnibus for Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from thestation, situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. Thevineyards here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of whichis natural, not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as isthe case with the other champagnes. 

69 m. From Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by theTour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, LaGrotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2½ m. Farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. From St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p.  46. )

[Headnote: LA VOULTE. ]

{77}{95}+LA VOULTE+, pop. 5000. _Inn:_ H. Du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railwayand steamboat stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bankand on the steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summitare the Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced byBernard Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. De Ventadour in1582, who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a largeiron-foundry, employing 170 men. The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ H. Chalvet, 2 m. Down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N. W. , 6 hrs. , and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W. , 5 hrs. The road to the two places separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. From St. Pierreville, and 15 m. S. E. From Le Cheilard. (See map, p. 46. ) St. Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut, chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the river, opposite the village Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, +Le Cheilard+, 2130 ft. Above the sea, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. Above the sea, whence it diverges northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N. W. , by St. Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. From Le Puy, near the river Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46. )

[Headnote: ST. SAUVEUR. LE CHEILARD. MARCOLS. ]

ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE. 

 +Saint Sauveur to Le Beage+ by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St. Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. +St. Pierreville+, 1788 ft. Above the sea, pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. Before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of +Olbon+, on both sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. Des Voyageurs, and a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas. 

 6 m. W. From St. Pierreville is +Marcols+, 3380 ft. Above the sea, a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère. _Inn:_ H. De l’Union. This is the terminus of the stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences, ” 15 frs. Per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is 28¼ m. N. W. From St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols 6 m. , Mezillac 11¾ m. , and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m. 

 The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs. , coils up the sides of steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. From Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms. 

[Headnote: LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL. SOURCE OF THE LOIRE. ]

 4½ m. W. From Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft. Above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way. 

THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC. 

 2 m. Beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the road (4600 ft. Above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road, which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The +Gerbier-de-Joncs+ (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. Above the tableland, 5125 ft. Above the sea, and commanding a wide and extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S. E. From Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. Above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to Lachamp, 22½ m. N. From Aubenas by Antraigues. 

 +Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage+, 12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend till about 1¾ m. Beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. From this the road crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat. 

 [Map: Mont Mezenc and the Source of the Loire]

[Headnote: LE BEAGE. MEZENC. ]

 +Le Beage+, pop. 850. _Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. Des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. Above the sea, beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the rate of from 2d. To 4½d. The yard, according to the breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn 1 fr. Per day. 3¼ m. S. W. From Le Beage in an extinct crater is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres. 

 From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of +Mezenc+ (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. Above the sea, 7½ m. N. From Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. Above the sea, or 1345 ft. Above Les Etables, and 866 ft. Above the hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour. 

LE BEAGE TO LE PUY. 

 Le Beage is 12 m. S. E. From Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. Above the sea, and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. From Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le Beage and Monastier, 10 frs. 

[Headnote: LE MONASTIER. ]

 +LE MONASTIER+, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. _Inns:_ Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N. W. 10¼ m. S. Is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. Above the sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles, connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St. Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du Monastier”--“le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son troupeau”--the “conservateur des fruits de la terre. ” (See his litany. )

 11¼ m. N. From Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. Des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. More, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. From Brives. 

 36 m. S. W. By rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. From Lyons, and 33 m. S. E. From St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is

[Headnote: LE PUY. THE CATHEDRAL. ]

+Le Puy+, pop. 20, 000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. Above the sea, between the rivers Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. From the town. _Hotels:_ Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de Breuil, at the N. W. Corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles, Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. Des Tables to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent. , and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres, ” from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it. 

 From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent. , presents an extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent. , on the other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent. , preceded by an arch of 28 ft. Span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent. , and the western the most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image, [1] brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is the baptistery of +St. Jean+, built in the 4th cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice. 

 [Footnote 1: The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. High, and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen. ]

[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DE FRANCE. ]

 From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the top is the image of +Notre Dame de France+, 433 ft. Above the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. Above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52½ ft. High, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. Long, the hands 5 ft. , and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child, J. C. , is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90 steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is seen (2½ m. N. W. ) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645 ft. Above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S. E. , Ours Mons. 

 On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the sculptor of both of them. 

[Headnote: AIGUILHE. ]

 Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the +Aiguilhe+, 265 ft. High, 518 ft. In circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent. ; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb. 

 Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an octagonal baptistery, 12th cent. , called the Temple of Diana. Near the post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende. 

[Headnote: MUSÉE. ]

 In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is the +Musée+, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages. 

[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. OURS MONS. ]

 Upstairs is the +Picture Gallery+. In the centre room are portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of the “Danse Macabre, ” dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. De Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of Charles I. Of England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to Napoleon I. ; also some of her ribbons. 

 1¼ m. S. E. From Le Puy is +Ours Mons+, 2463 ft. Above the sea, and 180 ft. Above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable; “exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures, belonging to different epochs. ”

LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. (Map, p.  46. )

 +Le Puy+, 2045 ft. , +to Langogne+, 2940 ft. Above the sea, 26 m. S. By coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft. , is about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. From Pradelles. 8 m. From Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S. W. To Cayres, 3727 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1450. _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about 1½ m. By a good road from the extinct crater of +Le Bouchet+, 231 ft. Higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. Deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p.  85). After Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft. , 12 m. S. , where the horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. From Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft. , pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. From Le Puy and 5 m. From Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. From Le Monastier by St. Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. From Les Sallettes (see map, p.  46). 

 +Pradelles to Mayres+, 18 m. S. E. , char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs. , by a good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p.  95), La Narce, 8¾ m. , pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. Above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into Ardèche. 

 From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St. Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. From Le Puy, and 12½ m. E. From Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach. 

[Headnote: ESPALY. BORNE. DARSAC. ]

LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. (Map, p.  46. )

 For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to +Langeac+ by St. Georges d’Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles. 

 +Le Puy to Langeac+, 36½ m. W. By rail. The first part of the line traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1 m. From Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy. 

 8¾ m. From Puy is +Borne+, 2535 ft. Above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. From this station, or 3¼ m. W. From Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent. , is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent. , commanding an extensive view. 

 13 m. W. From Le Puy is +Darsac+, 2914 ft. Above the sea. A small hamlet, with a restaurant, the +station for Chaise-Dieu+, 13¾ m. N. , fare 2½ frs. , and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N. , or 10½ m. Beyond Chaise-Dieu. 

[Headnote: LA CHAISE-DIEU. ]

 The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. Above the sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. The high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at +La Chaise-Dieu+, 3576 ft. Above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of N. D. Du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or Casa-Dei. Clement VI. , formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI. , in 1420, by whom are the façade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. High, and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. Square and 110 high, attached to the S. Point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. By 77, of which only two sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four. 

 The interior of the church is 301 ft. Long, surrounded by 22 tall plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. Wide, and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. Long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras tapestry, 16th cent. , from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table of black marble. 

 On the N. Side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is the “Danse Macabre, ” or dance of death, a favourite subject with artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La Chaise-Dieu. 

[Headnote: ARLANC. ]

La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert. 

 10½ m. N. By coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. From Darsac, and 11¼ m. S. From Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is +Arlanc+, pop. 4500, _Inn:_ H. Des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore, consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here. 

[Headnote: AMBERT. FIX-ST. GENEYS. ]

 11¼ m. N. Is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. By rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs. , of the culminating point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. Above the sea. 15 m. From Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. From Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent. Houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. Farther N. , or 8¾ m. S. From Thiers, is Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. From Darsac, or 36¾ m. N. From Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see p.  358; Thiers, p. 367. 

 The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p.  46) is +Fix-St. Geneys+, 18 m. From Le Puy, 3274 ft. Above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_ H. Des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2½ m. Farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. Above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. Farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. Above the sea. 

[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC. MONISTROL. ]

 The most westerly station on the line is +St. Georges d’Aurac+, 1872 ft. Above the sea, 86½ m. W. From St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy. 58½ m. N. By rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. By rail is Nîmes (see map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S. E. Other 2 m. E. Is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette. 5½ m. W. Is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. By Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S. W. From St. Georges, 90½ W. From St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is +Langeac+, 1690 ft. , 63 m. S. From Clermont, and 127 m. N. From Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ H.  Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N. E. Of the town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46. )

 15 m. S. From Langeac is +Monistrol+-d’Allier, 2000 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1200. The station is on the E. Side, and the town on the W. Side of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to +Le Puy+, 17 m. N. E. By St. Privat, 2930 ft. , pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. Above the sea. 10 m. From Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft. , pop. 1300, with a very old church. 1¼ m. Farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes, 3012 ft. , and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft. , and Mont Bonzon. Coach from +Monistrol to Saugues+, 6½ m. W. , 3116 ft. , pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the “English general. ” It consists of a square vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. High and 6⅜ ft. Apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel at Valence (see p. 44). 

[Headnote: LE POUZIN. PRIVAS. ]

 miles from LYONS miles to NÎMES

 {81}{91} +LE POUZIN+, pop. 3000, _Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle. Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. +Privas+, pop. 8000. _Inns:_ Croix d’Or; Louvre. On an eminence 1060 ft. Above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 ft. Higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. From Privas, on the plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis XIII. Established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded by the brave Montbrun. 

 From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. To Ollières, on the Eyrieux. _Inn:_ H. Du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas, 18 m. S. E. (See next page, and map p. 46. )

[Headnote: ROCHEMAURE. ]

{98}{74}+ROCHEMAURE+, pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across theRhône. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, butthe old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins ofthe castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and mostfrequented commences just opposite the “auberge, ” traverses the centreof the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel withthe arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by thebattlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was theseigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, ona needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises theKeep, like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far upwill be found round the N. W. Corner. The views are superb, of the valleyof the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of amassive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12thcent. By the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its presentcondition by order of Louis XIII. 

A road up the gap on the N. Side of the hill leads in a little more thanan hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft. , distinctly seen from the top ofthe gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basalticcolumns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear. 

[Headnote: LE TEIL. ]

{95¾}{76¼}+LE TEIL+, pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengersfor Montelimart, 3¼ m. E. , on the other side of the Rhône (p.  48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S. W. , on the line between Nîmes andClermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, 17½ m. S. W. From Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N. E. From Alais, a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. ToNieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entranceinto Ardèche (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56). 

[Headnote: AUBENAS. VALS. ]

+Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres. +

 5 m. W. From Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. From Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, _Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. Above the Ardèche, and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college, the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46. )

 3¼ m. N. From Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its +Mineral Waters+. _Hotels:_ Des Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs. , in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the eastern extremity. Near the H. Du Parc is the intermittent fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas. 

[Headnote: ANTRAIGUES. ]

 5 m. N. From Vals, or 9 m. From Aubenas and 16 m. From Privas, is +Antraigues+, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents--the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the +Coupe d’Aizac+, covered with a beautiful reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise. 

[Headnote: NEYRAC-LES-BAINS. THUEYTS. MAYRES. ]

AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. (Maps, pp.  56 and 46. )

 Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft. , and by the eminence on which is +Neyrac-les-Bains+, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. Des Bains; H.  Fournier. 2½ m. From Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger, containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81° Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place, the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m. W. , on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric, is +Thueyts+, pop. 2600, _Inn:_ H.  Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. High, extending nearly 2 m. Down the valley. To the W. Of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft. , which, unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants, a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of 214 ft. From the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock, is the +Echelle du Roi+, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1 hour. 

 The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358 ft. Above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation. 

 5½ m. From Thueyts is +Mayres+, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce. 1810 ft. Above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft. Above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For Langogne, 22 m. N. W. , it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. Above the sea. 

 7 m. From Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170 ft. Above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. Farther is La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. From Aubenas and 14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. Above the sea, where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. From Peyrebelle is Coucouron, pop. 1400. 

 The road now attains the height of 4266 ft. , where, on account of the snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter. 

 35 m. From Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft. , 16 m. From Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p.  88, and maps, pages 26, 56 and 46). 

[Headnote: PRADES. ]

+Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire. +

 For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p.  46. 

 11¾ m. N. From Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on an eminence rising from the N. Side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of Jaujac, is +Prades+, pop. 1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin. 

 Near the railway terminus is the village of +Pont-de-la-Baume+, pop. 900, _Inns:_ H. Du Louvre, etc. , 955 ft. Above the sea, at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet, Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it. 

[Headnote: JAUJAC. MONTPEZAT. ]

 3¾ m. From La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is +Jaujac+, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not vertical. About ½ m. From the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals. 

 14 m. N. W. From Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence, is +Montpezat+. The road from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. High, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat. 

 +Montpezat+-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. Above the sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new road La Vestide is 6½ m. N. W. From Montpezat. Coach to the base of the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. High from the base, but the crater is nearly 900 ft. Deep. By the old road, ascending by the village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. Distant. 

MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY. 

 To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N. W. , hire vehicle to Le Beage, 16 m. N. W. , 20 to 25 frs. , and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12 m. , 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft. , opposite the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. Higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. Above the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades, 9 m. N. From Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see p. 84). 

[Headnote: SAINTE EULALIE. ]

 From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. To the source of the Loire by Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. +Sainte Eulalie+, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure, in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. From the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp.  46 and 85). 

[Headnote: RUOMS. LARGENTIÈRE. ]

+Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc. +

 See map, page 56. 

 25½ m. S. W. From Teil, 8 m. S. W. From Vogué, and 36½ m. N. E. Of Alais, is +Ruoms+. Station for Largentière, 9 m. N. , 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W. , and for Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe; France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop. 5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300. Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse. 

 The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates. 

[Headnote: PONT D’ARC. ]

VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC. (Map, p. 56. )

 One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_ *H. Du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs. ; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs. , time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. From the railway station of St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p.  98). The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont, 2 frs. , or for the caves, 5 frs. , or the boatman for sailing down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche, composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft. , through which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft. High, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft. , and 48 thick. There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. High, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them is 490 ft. Long and 100 ft. High. Vallon is famous for black truffles, honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54. )

 miles from LYONS miles to NÎMES

{102½}{69½}+VIVIERS+, pop. 3300. _Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town arealong the road parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral ison the hill behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W. Side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, thequarrying and preparing of which forms the principal industry of theplace. Coach to Aps, 8 m. N. W. On the Teil and Alais railway, passingSt. Thomé, pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on theopposite or east side of the Rhône. 

[Headnote: BOURG-ST. ANDEOL. ]

{109½}{62½}+BOURG-ST. ANDEOL+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; theiromnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), onthe opposite or E. Side of the Rhône. Le Bourg has handsome quaysalongside the Rhône, a church founded in the 11th cent. , and some housesof the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards from the town, at the footof a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de Tournes, which, after turningvarious mills, flows into the Rhône. About 20 ft. Above it is a mucheffaced sculpture in relief, representing the sacrifice of a bull to thegod Mithras. 

[Headnote: ST. JUST. ]

{115}{57}+ST. JUST+ and St. Marcel station, from which both towns are less than amile, but in different directions. 2½ m. From the village of St. Just isSt. Martin, pop. 600, on the left or N. Bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop. 450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen from St. Martin. 

Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. Upthe river, or 3¾ m. W. From the village of St. Marcel. The price dependsupon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of atunnel, 4¼ m. Long, which here and there widens out into spacious loftycaverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, andfatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none butardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-SaintEsprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol. 

[Headnote: PONT-ST. ESPRIT. ]

{119}{53}+PONT-ST. ESPRIT+, pop. 5000. H. De l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière, onthe other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière page50. ) Station of the steamboat between Lyons and Avignon. Pont-SaintEsprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, with pleasantpromenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge are the churchof St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. Within, down asteep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel constructed in1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is abeautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegantpinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. Span, is richly decorated. In theHôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery. Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S. W. ) and back 15 frs. AtValbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, page 56). 

Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m. N. W. , there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above. )

7½ m. South from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. H. DuLouvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach to Uzès, 17 m.  W. 

{132½}{39½}+LAUDUN+, pop. 2200, about 2½ m. West from the station, and 10 m. FromOrange, is built on a hill 350 ft. High. The vineyards in theneighbourhood produce a good white wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½ m. West, by Connaux, St. Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, andMejannes; small and uninteresting towns (see map, p.  26). 

[Headnote: ROQUEMAURE. ]

{137½}{34½}+ROQUEMAURE+, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ H. Du Nord; H. Du Midi. Omnibus atstation. Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles theisland of Mémar, 1¼ m. Long. The best part of this curious old town isin the neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the publicpromenade with large trees, the great embankment to protect the townfrom the invasions of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, ofwhich the most remarkable part is the square tower perched on the pointof a great rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround thevillage. Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on theRhône, has a dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V. , first Pope ofAvignon, died here in 1314. 5 m. W. Is Taval, pop. 2200, where a goodwine is made. 

[Headnote: PONT-D’AVIGNON. ]

{144¾}{27¼}+PONT-D’AVIGNON+, station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon(p.  63). Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. The omnibus betweenAvignon and Villeneuve passes the station every hour. Tram every ¼between the station and Avignon. 

7 m. S. From the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, at aconsiderable distance from its station. 3¾ m. Farther is Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent. , and the ruins of acastle. (Map, page 66. )

{159¾}{12¼}+REMOULINS+, pop. 1400, with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch toUzès, 12½ m. N. W. On this line, 3¼ m. From Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge. (For description and directions see pp.  64 and 104, and map page 66. )

[Headnote: UZÈS. ]

+UZÈS+, pop. 5600, _Inn_ Bechard: on an eminence surrounded bypicturesque calcareous rocks. From the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and having gone down the avenue ascendthe double stair leading up to the beautiful terrace, on which, to theleft, stands the Cathedral, and to the right, projecting from thebalustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in whichRacine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in thedeep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the Romanaqueduct at Nîmes. At the S. W. Corner of the church rises from a squarebasement a circular campanile, 12th cent. , in six stages, of which fiveare composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by twin openarches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of thechurch is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat ofthe tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town themost prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, withturrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge, surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. Theoctagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from theÉcole des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St. Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duretof Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to theMarché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie andPost Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called LeDuché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducsd’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour dela Chapelle, 13th cent. , restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, 11thcent. , ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and infront the façade, 16th cent. , by P.  Delorme. The ground-floor of the“Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is alarge crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross ofcopper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair, vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The bestwines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besidesthe railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, 17 m. E. On the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. N. From the Pontd’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. From Pont-St. Esprit. 

[Headnote: SERNHAC-LÉDENON. ]

After Remoulins the train halts at the station +Sernhac-Lédenon+. +Lédenon+, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. From the station, and +Sernhac+, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. From Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. Nearer, Marguerittes, pop. 2000, witha handsome modern church, and in the cemetery the ruins of the chapel ofSt. Gilles, 12th cent. , seen from railway. 

 [Map: Nimes]

[Headnote: NÎMES. AMPHITHEATRE. ]

172 m. S. W. From Lyons, 27½ m. S. W. From Avignon, 31 m. N. E. FromMontpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. From Tarascon, 80 m. N. W. FromMarseilles, and 450 m. S. E. From Paris by Clermont-Ferrand, is

NÎMES, population 64, 000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. A flight ofsteps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the station. At the footof these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty comfortable room 2 frs. , dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams start from in front of the house. Inthe town are: On the Esplanade, the H.  Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a garden, the H. Du Midi or Durand, from 9to 12 frs. Fronting the amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to10 frs. Opposite the Maison Carrée, the H.  Manivet, 9 to 12 frs. , themost conveniently situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibusesawait passengers at the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. Du Grand Cours, between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. TelegraphOffice in the Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. DesCalquières. Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome newchurch of St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north endof the B. Des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade. 

_Sights. _--The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the Roman Baths. _Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the Amphitheatre, and at theMaison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. Per hour. 

A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to theEsplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marblecolossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, theGardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of thepedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, withits face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice andthe Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua. 

The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman +Amphitheatre+, the most perfectextant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437ft. , and the lesser 433 ft. , and the height 70 ft. Around the buildingare two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the archesbeing separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs anattic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustainedthe awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on theupper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one beingroofed with stone slabs 18 ft. Long, reaching from side to side. Therewere four entrances, one facing each of the cardinal points of thecompass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats in 4 zones, capable ofaccommodating from 18, 000 to 20, 000 spectators. The lowest zonecorresponded to the dress circle, the others to the galleries. Thepresent entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c. , opposite No. 8Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is under the fiftharch west. No description can express the sensation experienced fromcontemplating this vast Roman structure from the highest tier or fromthe edge of the outside wall. At the same time it must be rememberedthat there are no railings, and that an inadvertent step might haveserious consequences. The date of the building is uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured to have been thefounder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, the CastrumArenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8th cent. , till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died in 715. 

On the N. Side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, with, on the left hand or W. Side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including thePublic Library, containing 60, 000 vols. ; the Archæological Museum, containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in theneighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among otherpictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of John theBaptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a Girl and aReturn from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. Laid out in his coffin, byPaul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress experimenting ona slave with the poison they were preparing for Britannicus, ” by JavierSigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by Gérard Dow, ClaudeLorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van den Welde, andWouvermans. 

At the N. End of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with frescoeson gold and blue grounds by H. And P.  Flandrin. 

[Headnote: LA MAISON CARRÉE. CATHEDRAL. ]

Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them +La MaisonCarrée+, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably part of theForum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending east andwest. It is 75 ft. Long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed to havebeen erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a platform, andis encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 Roman-Corinthiancolumns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll frieze, sculptureddentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are attached, exceptingthe ten which support the pediment. In the area within the railing aremutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns. 

Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor, built in the 11th cent. , but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. Themost venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks ofstone. A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported bybrackets with acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exteriorfrieze. 

[Headnote: ROMAN BATHS. TOURMAGNE. FORT. ]

N. W. From the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases andstatues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and planetrees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called thetemple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built B. C. 24, of hugecarefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, and reduced to its present state in1577. The little of the ornamental work that remains is very muchmutilated. Opposite the temple, protected from the troublesome winds ofNîmes, are the +Roman Baths+, about 12 ft. Below the level of thegardens, the vaulting being supported on small columns, over which riseopen stone balustrades. Adjoining is the copious spring that suppliesthem, as placid but somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse(p.  65). 

From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier toan octagonal structure called the +Tourmagne+, 90 ft. High, erectedbefore the Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It wasoriginally filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. Insearch of treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in1843. The view from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents. 

Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV. , now thetown prison. On the western side of the fort are the remains of thereservoir, _castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought bythe canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still bringswater to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the fort. 

In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. High, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Ported’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. End ofthe Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of theRue Carrètérie. (See plan. )

The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of GalliaNarbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as thereign of Augustus it was a “colonia, ” and possessed in the days ofStrabo the “+Jus Latii+, ” and therefore was independent of the Romangovernors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was exportedto Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal emporium inthe south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who introducedtobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis Philippe, wereborn at Nîmes. 

[Headnote: PONT-DU-GARD. ]

13½ miles from Nîmes is the +Pont-du-Gard+, built by the Romans in thereign of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. Long, which, from theneighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the waters of the Eure andAiran to the reservoir beside the fort, of which only vestiges nowremain. This “Pont, ” which spans the valley or banks of the riverGardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total height above thebed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are formed of hewnstones, placed together without the aid of any cement; but the masonwork underneath the channel of the third or top story is of rough stonescemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The first or lowest rowconsists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. Each, except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven arches of the samedimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches of 15 ft. Span. A stair from the right bank of the river leads up to the watercourseabove the topmost tier of arches. In the striking boldness of its designthis bridge exhibits a decided improvement and superiority over all theother Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, and the piers in proportionlighter, and had the same principle been extended so as to have formedit of one single row from top to bottom, it would have equalled in theskill and disposition of its materials the more judicious and moreelegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p.  77). Take ticketto Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon, take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take anotherticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulinsstation, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p.  64). 

79 m. S. E. From Nîmes by rail is +Marseilles+ (p.  111), passingTarascon, 17 m. (p.  66), and Arles, 25 m. (p.  68). 

[Headnote: VIGAN. ]

NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN. 

 See Map, p. 26. 

 58 m. N. W. By rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W. , 9 hrs. , to Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque. 27 m. From Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800, junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N. , and thence 4½ m. E. To Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. From Lezan is St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. From Vigan, on the Hérault, 595 ft. Above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche, omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. Farther is Jumène, 682 ft. Above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron mines. 4 m. From Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. Above the sea, the line crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place, ” near the statue of the Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à Clastercamp à 27 ans. ” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is 860 ft. Above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty, on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat. 

[Headnote: VALLERAUGUE. ]

 Coach daily to +Valleraugue+, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m. N. , in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N. , and the Espéron mountains towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a little higher, towards the W. , at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. Above the sea, the culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. Of Valleraugue, and of the Tarn to the N. , but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood. 

[Headnote: LARZAC. ]

 +Le Vigan to Millau+, 43 m. W. By diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines. From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m. , and Arre, 6¼ m. , from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves by a tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the village Alzon, 12½ m. From Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of 7 m. The coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ H. Du Nord, producing excellent pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. From Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a poor village, on an eminence, 16 m. From Millau. Shortly afterwards the diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of +Larzac+, 2790 ft. Above the sea, and arrives at the village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. Is Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. 

 [Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the Passes from France into Italy]

[Headnote: TEMPERATURE. VEGETATION. ]

THE RIVIERA. 

HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE. 

 [Illustration: thermometer]

The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast ofthe Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two portions--the Riviera from Hyères toGenoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 mileslong. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former--theWestern Riviera--which has been subjected to most careful and minutemeteorological observations, and the various stations classifiedaccording to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station inall its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more fromeach other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has somepeculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiaritybeing more often accidental and social--such as the people met with, thelodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things whichexercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of themind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. Noneof the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficientlyhigh, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the highermountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deepindentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, andall delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them--the moresunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater isthe danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous+Mistral+, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels likea north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean wintertemperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, considered thecoolest of the winter stations, is 47°. 4 Fahr. , and of San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°. 89 Fahr. The coldest months are December andJanuary. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception. “In December wild flowers are raretill after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January havebecome abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones arespringing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and theMediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli. ” --_H. S. Roberton_. There is amuch less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palmflourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of themidrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are theorange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), thecamphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree (_Ceratonasiliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and different species of theEucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. In marshy places thecommon bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great height; while the _Sedumdasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dryrocky banks with verdure. The most important tree commercially is theolive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tractsin the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree(_Quercus suber_), the Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and thechestnut tree. The Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common inthe orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With theexception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard treesripen their fruit too late for the winter resident. 

On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. Or 9s. Per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantialmeat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. Insome boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. Iftwo are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, anexcellent plan is to take a furnished room, which, with a south exposureand good furniture, ought to cost about £2 per month. They can easilyprepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apartments should be taken, which vary from £2to £30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnishedapartments are let at prices varying from £18 to £100. As a general ruleit is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to selecteither the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequateidea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house. A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, a cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal tonearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by thekilogramme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. 3¼ oz. 

[Headnote: COST OF LIVING. FISH. VEGETABLES. ]

Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and muttoncost from 1s. 10d. To 2s. The kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when attheir dearest cost 1½d. Each. Excellent milk costs 4d. The litre. Thebest butter 3s. 2d. To 3s. 6d. The kilo. Of French cheese there are agreat many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort andthe fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. To 3s. 6d. The kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off thecoast are: the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup orBass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard(Grondin), the John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and theConger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferiorto those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Goodvegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, andartichokes. The cardon (_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogonporrifolius_) are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardontastes like celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoesare of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all thestations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and grocers. 

[Headnote: ADVANTAGES. ]

Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of theRiviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in thisregion must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshinewhich he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun oftenrises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness andwarmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without acloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying inhis setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints whichcharacterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light, a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a softness ofoutline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy description. In theearly stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young andactive-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden exposure, this cheeringinfluence is most beneficial. It is of great importance that, whiletaking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an earlyage into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-dayincreasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under theinfluence of medicine and climate a large number of these patientsgradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with duecare, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglectto consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience and advicewith regard to lodgings, food, etc. , are of great value, and may oftenprevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in unhealthylocalities. ” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, thatpatients should bring with them a letter from their physician describingtheir case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted. 

The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then thereis rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny walksthere are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères andBordighera. 

[Headnote: SEA-BATHING. DOCTORS’ FEES. ]

_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be continued with advantage by manyduring the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall ofthe tide are so trifling, the beach is always in a fit state for thebather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised thanthat of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt. 

_Doctors’ Fees. _--French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10frs. For each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20frs. , according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients. An extra charge is made for night work. 

Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, tea, arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and alittle of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinarywine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, andshould always be watered. 

[Headnote: MARSEILLES. ]

MARSEILLES. 

+MARSEILLES+, pop. 319, 000, 15 hrs. 25 min. From Paris, and 6 hrs. 37 min. From Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min. , and from Nice5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. From Paris, 190¼ m. S. From Lyons, 120½ m. W. From Cannes, and 140 m. W. From Nice. On the departure side of therailway station is the +Terminus Hotel+ (dear). The hotel omnibusesawait passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, towhich the driver of its omnibus will respond. 

A plentiful supply of +Cabs+ is both at the railway and the custom-housestation of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished with anofficial tariff, which, though constantly changing, may be stated tobe--Between 6 A. M. And midnight, for a cab with one horse, the course, 1 fr. ; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ fr. ; the hour, 2¼frs. From midnight to 6 A. M. 75 c. Extra. Portmanteaus not above 30kilo. , or 68⅘ lbs. , 25 c. Each. The hotel omnibuses charge eachpassenger 1 fr. 

_Hotels. _--In the Rue Cannebière, ascending from the Port, are very fine+Cafés+, and in the eastern continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, thebest +Hotels+. The Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles;and the Hôtel Marseilles; all near each other, and charging from 12 to20 frs. Per day. 

Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R. Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; betweenthe Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; onthe opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, theHôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R.  Vacon, the *Hôtel des Colonies. 

In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand andan important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, ofwhich the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. Des Récolettes. Rooms, 2½ frs. ; Dinner, 3½ frs. With wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel del’Europe, a “maison meublée, ” in which good rooms, including service, cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the neighbouringrestaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is G.  Restaurant desGourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the Restaurant Bouches duRhône, a cheap house. The other second-class houses in the CoursBelsunce which can be recommended are--the Californie; Deux Mondes;Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel du Cours is good also, butit is only a “maison meublée. ” The continuation of the Cours Belsunce iscalled the Cours St. Louis, where a flower-market is held. Just off thisCours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good, and clean house, thehotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to 3 frs. ; dinner, à lacarte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and cheap house, the HôtelForer, well situated, but it is one of those for which either a cab orthe general omnibus must be taken at the station. 

[Headnote: STEAMBOATS. CUSTOM-HOUSE. ]

_Steamboats. _--The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli etCie. , of Fraissinet et Cie. , of the P. And O.  Navigation Co. , etc. , arrive and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house isat the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gates areporters and a large cab-stand. The custom-house contains onewaiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receivean acknowledgment. A tramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette toLongchamps, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebière by the R. De laRépublique. There are no hotels near the steamboat station. 

Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the+Château d’If+, 8 frs. From 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small steamersmake the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, butdo not land the passengers, fare ½ fr. , time 1 hr. At this part of thequay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges andother fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on the port, theBateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. Atthe mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carénage, by the side ofFort St. Nicholas, and just below the interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame. 

The principal Temple Protestant is in the R.  Vincent, No. 2. There isanother in the R.  Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post Office at No. 53. Poste-Restante, “guichet, ” on the ground-floor, opposite theentrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour. Anglicanchapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallelto it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the École desBeaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday. 

Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan. 

The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the RueNoailles. 

 [Map: Marseilles]

[Headnote: SIGHTS. TRAMS. ]

+Sights. +--Palais Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the PictureGallery and the +Natural History Museum+; free. Closed on Mondays andevery day between 12 and 2 (see p.  114). Near the Palais is theZoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p.  116). Theshops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on theCorniche road. 

Of all the +Trams+ the most important starts from the left of the statuein the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des Fleurs and the Pradoto its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond the racecourse. Just behindthe Bonneveine terminus is the +Château Borély+, containing the Muséed’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in theneighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin ofMarseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Romanmosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies; and in the endroom is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff ofthe prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple ofBaal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, fayence fromProvence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. In diameter. 

[Headnote: CORNICHE. BOUILLABAISSE. ]

Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de Rome, near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche road, considered themost beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. The gardens andpleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to theirrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on theCorniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of the restaurants thebest is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, charging 15 frs. Perday, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5 frs. Additional. Thehouse is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at theentrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, hashandsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish dinners andBouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. Thisestablishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along theCorniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept asupply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse, a kind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes--plum-pudding, puchero, haggis, etc. --admits of considerable latitude in thepreparation. The essentials are--whole rascasses and chapons (scorpionfishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a liquor mixed with a little of thebest olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra goodBouillabaisse should include also crayfish, a few mussels, and somepieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass. 

[Headnote: PALAIS DE LONGCHAMP. ]

Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking ashort stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles, enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2sous. +The Palais de Longchamp+, which cost £165, 000, consists of tworectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionicvolute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massivearchway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringingthe water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of LouisPhilippe I. Another records that the palace was commenced in the reignof Napoleon III. , on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 15th August1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes acopious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft. In three stages. The wing to the right, standing with the face to thepalace, contains the Natural History Museum; and the other, the pictureand sculpture galleries. 

All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some largepictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small roomleft hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the bestpictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:--F. Bol, d. 1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, d. 1671, portrait of P. De Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated;Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; Gongo, d. 1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d. 1554, portrait; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713, Cardinal Cibo; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766, Mme. De Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino, d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; F.  Porbus, d. 1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; Rembrandt, d. 1669, A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d. 1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640, Wild-boar Hunt; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588, Venetian princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to theright is the “+École Provençal+, ” containing, among otherpaintings--Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milkmaid, andportraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, d. 1849, “LaVierge Consolatrice”; P.  Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, amongothers, J.  F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman feeding Child. 

The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are theconchological division and the collection of ammonites. 

From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the palace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. Above the sea, supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See underRoquefavour, p.  77. ) At this part of the hill is one of the entrances tothe Zoological Gardens; free on Sundays, when they are crowded withpeople. Near the entrance is the +Observatory+, one of the mostimportant in France. 

[Headnote: HÔTEL DE VILLE. LA CONSIGNE. ]

The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is protectedon the E. By Cape Croisette, and on the W. By Cape Couronne. Itsapproaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant is onthe Planier rock, 130 ft. Above the sea, and 8 m. S. W. From Marseilles. The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned trading-vessels, withtheir lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphaticallythe “Port, ” containing 75½ acres. From the end of the “Port” extendseastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street La Cannebière, socalled from the rope-walks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly themiddle of the N. Side of the “Port” is the +Hôtel de Ville+ (1 in plan), built in the 17th cent. , and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born atMarseilles; while at the western extremity of the same side, next FortSt. Jean, is a low building called La Consigne, or Health Office. Overthe chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautifulrelief in white marble by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. Tothe right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunceadministering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants ofMarseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice returning from Constantinoplewith the plague on board, ” “l’an 4 de la République. ” Opposite thefireplace, “The cholera on board the Melpomene, ” by Horace Vernet. Nextit, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had diedof the plague. ” Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the twowindows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr. ) Near the Consigneis the pier of the ferry-boats. Above the Hôtel de Ville is the towninfirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. Above the quay ofJoliette, [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ARC DE TRIOMPHE. ] the +Cathedral+, a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. From S. To N. , and 165 ft. From E. To W. At the transept; built of gray Florentine stone alternating with awhitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Arles. The nave is 52 ft. Wide, and the roof 82 ft. High. The great dome is 196 ft. High. Behindthe cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charité (7). Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the+Arc de Triomphe+, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commencedon the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Ducd’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. High and 58ft. Wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of thebattles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similarstatuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz. Over the arch is the inscription-- “_A la République_. ” From the arch asteep street, the R. D’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at theN. End a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le souvenir de sacharité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola Marseille” in1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p.  113)and the Alcazar Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant. 

[Headnote: BOURSE. ]

The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and fartherS. The spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. End of the Cours are, tothe right the R.  Cannebière, and to the left the R.  Noailles, the twobest streets in Marseilles. At the W. Or Port end of the former is the+Bourse+ (marked 10 in the plan), a parallelogramic building, 154 feetbroad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60feet by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule areallegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas-reliefrepresenting Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of theworld. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. De Paradis, are theOpera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). ThePalais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pedimentand peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus, ” is surroundedby 16 columns of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in theRenaissance style, 300 ft. Long by 260 ft. Wide, adorned with statuesand bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalierd’honneur, communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented withmural paintings. 

From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of +Notre Dame dela Garde+, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object inMarseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right by the CoursPierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de Colline, andthen ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On descending becareful to take the path to the left of the stone altar under a canopyon 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length of the Plateau de laCroix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain to theterrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. Above the sea. The church isshut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can alwaysbe visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. High, crowned with a gilded imageof Mary 30 ft. High, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. Theview, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the whole ofMarseilles. To the N. E. The culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft. ; tothe S. E. Is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft. ; and S. From it MontPuget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau andPomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is thelittle island of If (p.  118). Off Cape Croisette are the islands ofMaïre and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol)leads to the Corniche. 

NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE. 

Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of anupper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. High. Theinterior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilastersand columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altarin the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It isabout 6 ft. High, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, andmade of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting theface and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. And 14lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all ofsilver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, andwith pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculousinterposition was displayed. 

[Headnote: LYCÉE. ]

From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the CoursLiautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the +Lycée+ or head grammar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et l’École desBeaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard duMusée, 177 ft. Long by 164 ft. Wide. On the ground-floor are theclass-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection ofmedals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. Long by 19½ wide. Among the medalsare 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95, 000 vols. And1300 manuscripts. 

[Headnote: SAINT VICTOR. ]

At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and theBassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles, +Saint Victor+, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteriesin Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of thechurch in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victorresembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouthsquare towers, the two largest at the N. Side having been added by PopeUrban V. , a former abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door underthese towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. Theupper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th cent. Near thesacristy in the S. Side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the originalchurch, a large and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient partis the small chapel shut off from the rest, with several tombs hewn inthe rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to thetradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died atMarseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is marred by a modernaltar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it is said, by Puget. The shaftof one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces ofornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, andremnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of amiraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved byLuke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. High, and is called Notre Damede Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries fromthe 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have beenremoved to the museum in the Château Borély (p.  113). At the foot of theeminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassinde Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes tothe other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is SaintVincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent. 

[Headnote: ISLAND OF IF. ]

_Excursions. _--The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the +Islandof If+, with its old château built by Francis I. , long used as a stateprison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port. They charge from 5 to 9 frs. ; but it is necessary to arrange the pricebefore starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whencea stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the entranceto the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. A man conductsvisitors over the castle, of which the most interesting parts are thecell of Monte Christo, and the place where he was thrown over into thesea. 

Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N. W. By rail (see map on p.  66). AtMartigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. W. ; fare, ½ fr. From PortBouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the canal to Arles (see p. 76). After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is L’Estaque(see p.  80), 7 m. W. , with large brick and tile works, at the foot of awooded hill. 4¼ m. Farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to thestation. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main line, and theMartigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaitspassengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. On Lake Marignane, pop. 7000. Remainsof castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated fromLake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignanestation arrives at the station for Châteauneuf, a village S. Towards thehills. 

[Headnote: MARTIGUES. INDUSTRIES. ]

+Les Martigues+, pop. 10, 000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel duCours, and omnibus for Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides ofthe outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, allconnected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large partof the town are on the E. Or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest ofthe 3 islets are the Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on themiddle one is the Hôtel de Ville; and on the third and largest are thehospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. Sideof the canal is the part of the town called Ferrières, containing theharbour and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is theprincipal industry of the inhabitants. 

There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The infirmary(Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains generally from600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is theHôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds. 

The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories, with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65, 000 tons, valued at£2, 000, 000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil andchemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55, 000tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentratedacids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at£320, 000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnacesof St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for theconstruction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch ofiron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is agreat centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore; 16, 000 tons oflead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually. 

[Headnote: COMMERCE. HISTORY. ]

_Commerce. _--The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from theBlack Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4, 000, 000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, andJapan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cottonfabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits; those of greatest bulk arecereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal. 

_History. _--The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) wasfounded by the enterprising mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600B. C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it wasrepeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic, governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the remainder of theMiddle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher town wasgoverned by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette. The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of St. Victor, and ownedthe Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between thetwo, retained the old harbour, and was the most powerful of the threedivisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity toMarseilles. King René made it his winter residence. Louis XIV. Came inperson to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He tookthe town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseillesrepeatedly suffered from the plague, and an epidemic raged from May 1720to May 1721 with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find aparallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalisedthemselves by their courage and devotion. 

During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristocracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror theyrebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by GeneralCarteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to theirmaritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants againstNapoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received aconsiderable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of theSuez Canal. 

[Headnote: THE MARSEILLAISE. ]

_The Marseillaise. _--The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise” wascomposed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6¼ m. S. From Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and duringdinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to compose awar-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to hisroom, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. Inthe morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “_Tenez, voilá ceque vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop bon. _”“_Que dites vous mon ami?_” said Dietrich, after casting his eye overthe MS. ; “_vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre. _” The mayor’s wife havingtried it on the piano, the orchestra of the theatre were engaged toperform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was theenthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off with nearly 1000instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air “Le Chant deguerre de l’armée du Rhin. ” In July of the same year a detachment ofvolunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, andas they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march andin the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des Marseillais. ”Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of themonarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins. 

MARSEILLES TO MENTON. 

BY HYÈRES, CANNES, NICE, AND MONACO. 155 MILES. 

See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185. 

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to MENTON

{ }{155}+MARSEILLES. + See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the“Indicateur. ” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon, traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded bymountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the streamHuveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseillescanal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with thechapel of N. D. De Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all situatedat the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October, a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineralbaths of Camoins, 2 m. Distant, or 5 m. By omnibus from Marseilles. Thebathing establishment is about ¼ m. From the village, in an undulatinghollow, among plane trees, olives, and vines. The water is cold, andcontains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is veryeffective as a tonic, and in diseases of the liver. The establishment isquiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to 9 frs. Per day. 

10½ m. From Marseilles is +Aubagne+, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibusdaily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts atAubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N. , with coal-minesand potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail. 

After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, ifa slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant fishingvillage in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole(to the west), culminating point 1800 ft. , and Mont de Canaille (to theeast), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension Liautaud. Anomnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. A very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on thesides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6½ m. East by this road, and23 m. From Marseilles by rail. The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. Fromthe town, but an omnibus awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. De l’Univers, atthe head of a well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strongstone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curiouspromontory, the Bec de l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed ofthree lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. Side. Beyond thepoint is the small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishingis carried on in +La Ciotat+; but the main business of the place isderived from the great shipbuilding yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town. 

 [Map: Marseilles to Cannes]

4¼ m. Beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village ofSt. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. Farther is the station for Bandol, a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. Theindustries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on theplain and on terraces on the sides of the hills. 

36 m. E. From Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St. -Nazaire, whereomnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on theMediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; situated ashort way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestonecliffs, which, about 2 m. Up the river, are so close to each other as toform a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard deBesse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and Bandol is theculture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent allover France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. The dozen. Yellow is thenatural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemonsgrow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place ofOllioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France. 

[Headnote: LA SEYNE. SIX FOURS. ]

38½ m. E. From Marseilles, and 6 m. W. From Toulon, is +La Seyne+station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11, 000, H. Dela Méditerranée, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between whichtwo ports there is constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel isthe office of the omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S. E. , at the footof Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibusreturns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through LaSeyne, from which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are thenew fort and what remains of the ancient village of +Six Fours+, once atown of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has beencleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, whichoccupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, ofwhich the earliest part, 6th cent. , is at the entrance extending eastand west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand aretwo stone altars (6th cent. ), with windows behind them to give light tothe officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to theaudience. The nave, extending N. And S. , was added in the 15th cent. Itcontains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the “Annalesde Six Fours, ” the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brotherLazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She was buried in the cryptof St. Maximin (p.  143). 

TOULON. 

42 m. E. From Marseilles, 13 m. W. From Hyères, 22 m. S. FromCarnoulles, 59 m. S. W. From St. Raphael, 79 m. S. W. From Cannes, 98½ m. S. W. From Nice, and 113 m. S. W. From Menton, is +Toulon+, pop. 71, 000(see maps, pp.  123 and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the GrandHotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre; inthe Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an office where carriages canbe hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. From this “Place” startthe omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. By the road; also omnibuses forOllioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountainin the centre of the “Place” are by Puget. In the Place d’Armes is theH.  Place d’Armes, fronting the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the bandplays on Sundays. 

The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, LaGarde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières, Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, startfrom the Place d’Italie at the east end of Toulon. In this “Place” arethe inns H.  Petit, St. Jean, and H.  Croix-Blanche. (For the above placessee maps, pp.  123 and 129. ) In the Place Puget are several cheaprestaurants. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port. 

[Headnote: THE QUAI DU PORT. ]

+The Quai du Port. +--The bronze statue on this quay, representingNavigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in frontof the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for SaintMandrier, 3½ m. S. , and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is theberth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk ofthe famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping planks. Thiswas the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from St. Helena anddeposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. TheChamber of Deputies granted £40, 000 to defray the expenses of theexpedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, withwhom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, andMarchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted ofNapoleon’s adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, whenthe body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that sameday the remains were embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, wherethe body was transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed itup the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificentcar. 

[Headnote: CAB FARES. THE ARSENALS. ]

_Cab fares. _--The course, 1¼ fr. ; the hour, 2 frs. 

The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising graduallyfrom the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on eitherside. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix andlarge barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft. , and immediatelybehind it Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, andbehind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort;while from the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises FortMalbousquet. Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, thelast held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious andmost secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the PortMarchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded bywell-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are thearsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on ascale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, andemploying above 10, 000 men. Near the west end of the Port a largegateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the “ArsenalMaritime, ” covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100forge fires, two covered building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and anarmoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle byPuget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on pilesalong the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, andship-equipment departments. 

Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines andsailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all thecharacteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound, from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, wheregaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. Themost pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharffronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above thehorizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it iscrowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, unfortunately, arepoisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafés andrestaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the town andneighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human liferecorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad withvengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing eventhose of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidstthe flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploringcries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarkingsome 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius thediscomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to theutmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage. 

[Headnote: TOWN HALL. ]

Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the +Town Hall+, adorned with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is thestatue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind isthe corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories ofnearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being thesmallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the largefour, the windows of the first three rows over the doorway being incouples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and underthe eaves a projecting dentil cornice. 

The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is theRue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immenselime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round tothe Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrowfive-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-ballsfired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above. )At the Port end of the street is the “Place, ” whence the omnibus startsfor Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interiorcontains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar tothe left represents one of the interviews between J.  C. And MargueriteAlacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Maryannouncing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the “conceivedwithout sin. ”

[Headnote: SAINTE-MARIE-MAJEURE. ]

The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, betweenhouses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of +Sainte-Marie-Majeure+, commenced in the 11th cent. , and finished in the 18th. The exterior isunattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entranceis of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel tothe right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacleand the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have executedalso the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing theapostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the arch of thechapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church. 

[Headnote: ST. MANDRIER. MONT FARON. ]

All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest arethose which cross to La Seyne (p.  123). The steamers for the Ilesd’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from this wharf. The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first atBalaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to thenorth and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easilyrecognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situatedtowards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of FortBalaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty villasin luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamarisrises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellentcarriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land ofthe peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier, and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses theroads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. Atthe landing-place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. Per day. Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments ofthis kind in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has ahandsome chapel, and a great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. Adjoining is a large and well-sheltered garden with orange trees. Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is theHôpital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, it is hardly sufficiently ventilated. 

One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feetabove the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. End of Toulon, takethe broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across therailway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave thetown by the Port of Ste. Anne--the name is on the gateway. From this thereal road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent andcontinuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town andthe bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to theleft goes to the barracks and to the top. The nearly level road to theright goes to Fort Faron, and the steep road to the left to Fort de laCroix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valetteside of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, fromwhich rise knolls of various elevations. It can be done in a carriage. 

[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN. ]

_Toulon Omnibuses. _--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best areto +Hyères+ (p.  133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on astream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S. Side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426ft. High. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The roadeastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short roadnorthward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminencecommanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +LaValette+, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. From Toulon and 7¾ W. From Hyères bythe omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writingthe book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have beendone by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305ft. , in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in alldirections. I have sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet boldindentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon. ” --_George Sand. _ Acarriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only afew feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and thebest of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane oppositethe Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On theway up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves. 

The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N. E. From Ste. Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from thePlace d’Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of itis seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the eastof the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slopeof an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerablevillage a little to the S. Of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crownedwith the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. AtCap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke. 

 [Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyères]

[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER. ]

The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E. , behindFort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or CoursLafayette. 

_Diligence Drives. _--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19¼ m. N. By diligence fromthe Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs. ; fare, 2½ frs. (see map, p.  117). 

 The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m. , and Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. Above the sea and 10½ m. From Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The diligence halts near the inn H. Du Commerce, where passengers from Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the same way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. Farther up the valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 ft. ), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. Higher up, and 12½ m. From Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft. , arrives at the best headquarters in the valley, Meounes, 919 ft. , on the stream Naille, an affluent of the Gapeau, 3½ m. N. From Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. From Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E. From Signes, 4¾ m. S. From Roquebrussane, 12 m. S. E. From Le Camp, 5 m. S. From Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. From Forcalqueiret railway station, which is 7 m. E. By rail from Brignoles (see map, p. 123). 

[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX. ]

 The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of sinners, pray for us. ” On the fourth side “June 1870. ” Eastward is a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of 1794 ft. , 1860 ft. , 2073 ft, 2248 ft. , 1934 ft. , 2326 ft. , and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively stony. 

 Scarcely 3 m. From Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. Above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1½ m. To a bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased, along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même le premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses ou aux tromperies des femmes. ” A nearer but very stony path, commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent. 

 Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the Toulon coach to Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles 3 frs. , distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p.  142. )

[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIÈRES. ]

 +Toulon to Collobrières. +--From the Place d’Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N. E. By E. , passing through La Valette 3¼ m. , La Garde with its castle 5 m. , and +La Crau+ 7½ m. _Inn:_ H. De France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyères and La Crau. 

 From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. From Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrières, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ frs. ; time, 4½ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 P. M. ; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station, and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p.  142). 

 From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. Above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley of the Réal-Collobrier to +Collobrières+, pop. 3600, on an eminence rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. De Notre Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hôtel de Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the principal industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured. 

 A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the chapel of N. D. Des Anges, 2556 ft. Above the sea. 

[Headnote: ISLES D’OR. PORQUEROLLES. ]

+The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or. +

 Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs. , fare 2 frs. ; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros. 

 The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of Giens (see p.  140, and map, p. 123). 

 Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. Above the sea. The northern coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis. 

 The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. Side of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. From Les Salins. The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor alongside. In the “Place, ” quite close to the pier, are the church, the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two inns, of which the H. Du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above the town, at an elevation of 215 ft. , is the castle, with some small buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison. 

 There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. Coast westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N. Coast eastward the +Chemin des Mèdes+, and the road up the centre of the island, from N. To S. , the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road commences at the N. W. Corner of the “Place” and terminates at the lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 ft. Above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps, is 46 ft. Above the ground, and has a white light. 

 The first road right from the N. W. Corner of the “Place” is the Chemin du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the left, 370 ft. High, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. Above the sea. 

 The road along the N. E. Coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes round the N. End of a ridge, extending N. And S. , on whose summit, 479 ft. Above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. Of a hill 449 ft. High. 

[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT. ]

 +Port-Cros. +--11½ m. E. From Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. From Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. Above the sea; it is 2½ m. From S. W. To N. E. , and 1½ m. From N. To S. , and contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times. 

 About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. From E. To W. , and 1½ from N. To S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. Above the sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound. 

+Toulon to Hyères. +

 +Toulon to Hyères. +--Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, 11 m. E. , can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place Puget, fare 1 fr. , time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail from Toulon. 

[Headnote: HOTELS. ]

HYÈRES, pop. 13, 000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, thenearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay asCannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; butnone of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a varietyof charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches. The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is ¾ m. S. From Hyères, and ¾ m. N. From the Hermitage. 

_Hotels. _--At the west of the town are the Hôtel des Palmiers, below thePlace des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with garden off the main road; theH.  Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d’Or. These three arefirst-class houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs. , includingbedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea inthe morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off themain street are the Ambassadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12frs. , frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At theeast end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. Du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. Onopposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house, the H.  Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, isthe Méditerranée, third-class. The principal hotel on the east side ofHyères is the H.  Orient, 10 to 13 frs. , a comfortable andold-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, andoff the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. Des Étrangers, 10 to 13frs. , in a sunny situation. About 1½ m. S. From Hyères, near theHermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmestand most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôteland Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs. , retired and comfortable, andfrequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest ofpines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with thoseof Hyères. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnishedapartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French andan English bank. Both exchange money. In the same “Place” is the TempleProtestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopalchapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the westend of the town. 

There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, whichtake in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations onthe Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have largegambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo. 

_Cab fares. _--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs. 

[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES. ]

_Drives. _--A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to8 frs. , with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs. , but, as there is no recognisedtariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between theParadis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to LaCrau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valleyof the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day’s excursion, is tothe Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N. , by La Crau, Solliès-Pont(a railway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (Fordescription, see p.  129. ) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. There and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brégançon, 16miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at theeastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. From Hyères) amidst large olivetrees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called LaPlage Largentière, in which is situated the Château de Bormettes, builtby Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. From Hyères). A little farther east, on thePlage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux of Léoubes (11 m. ) and Brégançon;and, on the western point of Cap Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 mileswest of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p.  142. ) Another pleasant drive is toCuers, 14 m. N. W. By the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road thatramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into theVallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passesby the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olivetrees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besidesthese excursions there are a great many little drives which may be takenin the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of theMaure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, assome parts of the roads are not good. 

_Coaches. _--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches forCarqueyranne 6¼ m. W. , for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E. , for La Crau 4½ m. N. (see p.  130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E. , whence a steamer sails toSt. Raphael. Near the “Place, ” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (seemaps, pp.  123 and 129). 

[Headnote: MASSILLON. ]

+Hyères proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up thesouth-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winterstations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has faroutgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. Wide, is between the townand the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on theland side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and eastwinds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral ornorth-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms theprincipal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shopsand the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, ofwhich two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting thePlace de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the PorteFenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principalgateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R.  Portalet leadsdirectly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, a bustof Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent. , now the Hôtel deVille. Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to theleft a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is thehouse, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators ofFrance, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appearedsedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached tothe Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect onLouis XIV. That he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- “Father, I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, butwhenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself. ” The language ofMassillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time inthe church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose fromtheir seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which stillastonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article“Eloquence” in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting “_la figurela plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence qu’on puisselire chez les anciens et les modernes_. ” His father, who spelt his nameMasseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to sonin the same house from 1647 to 1834. 

[Headnote: ST. PAUL. ]

Above the “Place” is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent. , on a terracecommanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altarrepresent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition tothe church is an ancient baptismal font. 

[Headnote: ST. LOUIS. ]

At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, isthe church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. In the Byzantine styleand restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. Thequadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. Thepulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display eleganceand originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picturerepresenting the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th ofJuly 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz inthe castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louisabout to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in thissquare, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou andProvence, 9th son of Louis VIII. Of France, and brother of Louis IX. In1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, whichevent closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it tothe house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, hedispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At thewestern end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, and came from Spain. Napoleon I. Lodged in the house No. 7 of the Placedes Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerousnursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the“Jardin d’Acclimatation, ” where animals, birds, and plants are rearedfor the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. Thesegardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public. 

[Headnote: COSTEBELLE. ]

From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called theCostebelle, about 2½ m. From N. E. To S. W. , on the wooded slopes of theMontagnes des Oiseaux. The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. Above the sea, is the chapel of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are old olive trees. 

[Headnote: CHÂTEAU. ]

THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES. 

On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Château ofHyères+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake ofacquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hôtelde Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, asthe entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S. E. End of the wall. Thecastle, 657 ft. Above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the7th cent. , although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called_Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, “air-castle. ” Considerable portions of thewalls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the mostperfect part being on the western side, above the Hôtel des Iles d’Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are thetown and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, withgenerally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les VieuxSalins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards thepeninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p.  131), the largest of theislands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. Long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by thelittle hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. D’Hyères, and theOiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North fromOiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft. , which looks as if the top had beenshaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain, are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p.  125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Mauremountains and the Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From thisfort, northwards by the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon andLéoubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. Above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp.  123and 129. )

[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET. ]

Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft. , at the westernextremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences atthe back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft. , onwhich is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the execution ofmalefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the eastend of Hyères, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is afavourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from thecastle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet. 

+Excursion to Mont Fenouillet. +--Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of theMaurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left, called the “Chemin St. Bernard, ” leads down to the west end of Hyères, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and somefine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutusunedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft. , diverges N. E. By a ridge projecting into the valley ofthe Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visitedby pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it downto the road between Hyères and Toulon. 

[Headnote: THE TROU DES FÉES. ]

+Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux. +--The best way is to take thepath commencing in the first valley N. Of the Costebelle road, ascendingby the N. Shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some placesit is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercuscoccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft. , obstruct the view, but onthe way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyèreson one side and of Carqueyranne on the other. 

+The Trou des Fées. +--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E. Side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. Theentrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior, covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. Long by 40 wide. To explore itlights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a pathleads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road downby the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelleroad passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. Theother source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel, ” nearly 2 m. S. E. From the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. Thiswater filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E. , through thegravelly soil of the plain. 

To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult andconfusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramblein whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up thelonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only soundheard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” atsuch game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In theswamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Mauremountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for thewalking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian. 

[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING. ]

 The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state, and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12° Fahr. , while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL CATERPILLAR. PIPES. ] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision. On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption of the French word _bruyère_, signifying heath. 

 The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits, and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries, peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the surface, there is always abundance of water. 

[Headnote: BUTTERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYÈRES. ]

 “About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September, many of the latter generation living through the winter. Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, the A.  Niobe, the A.  Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A.  Valenzina, the Arge Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S.  Hermione, the S. Fidia, the S.  Phædra, the S. Cordula, the S.  Actoæ, the S.  Semele, and the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer. ” --_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyères. _

 +Climate. +--Hyères is especially fitted for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed. ” --_Dr. Edwin Lee. _ The mean winter temperature is 47°. 4 F. , and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that disease. ”

[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHÂTEAU. ]

THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS. 

 The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m. South-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p.  129). 

 8¾ m. S. From La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. From Hyères, is the station for La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p.  131). The beach adjoining the E. Side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254. At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S. , with the mainland. The large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite (p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le Château+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks. 

 From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407 ft. Above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can be had on the isthmus. 

 After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at

[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA. ]

 +Les Salins+, 18 m. From Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20, 000 tons of the value of £10, 000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p.  129). 

 +Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6¼ m. W. , by Costebelle and the coast. After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the little port is about ½ m. Distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft. , and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft. , and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères. 

[Headnote: BORMES. ]

 +Coach to Bormes+, 14½ m. E. From Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾ m. E. , a little village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. Through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle, 12th cent. , built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fishing village on the coast road from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map, p. 123). 

{49}{106}+LA PAULINE+, a few houses with a new church, near the foot of MontCoudon. Junction with line to Hyères, 6½ m. E.  Passengers who havemissed the train for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little cafébelow. From La Pauline the train arrives at +Solliès-Pont+, pop. 3000;_Inns:_ Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, ona steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on theside of the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for+Collobrières+ (see p.  130). 

[Headnote: CARNOULES. ]

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to MENTON

{63½}{91½}+CARNOULES. + _Inn:_ H. De la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. N. W. , on the line between Marseilles and Aix. 

[Headnote: GARDANNE. BARJOLS. ]

+Gardanne to Carnoules. +

Gardanne, pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. FromMarseilles and 7 m. S. From Aix (see p.  77). On this line, 16 m. N. W. From Carnoules and 36 m. E. From Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, onthe Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather dirtytown, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are firstcarefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, 13th cent. , isin the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the SousPréfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. Inthe sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments. Diligence daily to +Barjols+, 16½ m. N. , pop. 3000; H. Pont d’Or;situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p.  167). Diligence also to Toulon by Meounes (see p.  129). 

[Headnote: ST. MAXIMIN. ]

On this branch line, 12 m. W. From Brignoles, is +St. Maximin+, 1043 ft. Above the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. Du Var; France. The church of thisancient town was commenced by Charles II. Of Sicily towards the end ofthe 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. Ithas no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. Long and 91½ ft. High, and theaisles on each side 211 ft. Long and 58 ft. High. The width of thechurch is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interiorof the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on eachside of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and fine-tonedorgan, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playingupon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen ofthe sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Fewparts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a Flemish monk, FrèreLouis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearingwithin a wreath a representation in relief of one of the incidents inthe life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Underthem are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the rood-loft, and at theother the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by onedoor on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. Of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and on the other side, interra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in thecrypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N. Aisle consists of a painting on wood by an Italian artist in 1520. Inthe centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paintings onpanels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is anEntombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in thesame style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, andSt. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancientiron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance intothe cloister and convent, 13th and 14th cents. The sculpture above thesound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascensionof Mary Magdalene. The undulating fluting on the panels and thesculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair down tothe crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed aconsecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body was afterwards putinto the elaborately-carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side ofthe altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of theInnocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. OppositeMary’s is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent. , and thenfollow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella(Mary’s maid) and St. Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having beenrifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is theskull of Mary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of oneof her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p.  123. ) [Headnote: MONTBRETAGNE. TRETS. ] The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene issaid to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesquemountains, partly in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, ofwhich the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it, coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S. W. , then ascend to the cave by Nans, 5hrs. Distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285ft. Above the cave, glorious view. (See map, p.  123. ) 12 m. W. From St. Maximin and 12 E. From Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200; _Inn:_ France;a dirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers. In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but they are small and unimportant. 

{75¼}{79¾}+LE LUC+ station, 1½ m. From the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse. Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Mauremountains to St. Tropez, 26 m. S. E. , by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5 frs. Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving thestation, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts, and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. Above the sea and12 m. From Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, wherethe horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one ofthe strongholds of the Saracens. 17 m. From Luc and 5 from La Garde is, on an eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcadedstreets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. Themassive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On thetop of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent. , andoccupied till the middle of the 18th. 19 m. From Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, and 25½ E. From Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situatedon an eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, fromwhich they were driven (p.  187), and all the fortifications destroyedexcepting one tower, now the town clock tower. By the roadside, abouthalf-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a very large fir tree. 32 m. N. E. From Hyères and 26 m. S. E. From Luc station is

+St. Tropez+, pop. 3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms, at the head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of thebay. The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church isin the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coastof the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tallslight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and noapsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of thehigh altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta. ”Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of thehill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour, opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one ofthe greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, inProvence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. Thepromenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchinsof St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St. Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily toHyères, 32½ m.  W. 

[Headnote: DRAGUIGNAN. LORGUES. ]

{84½}{70½}+LES ARCS+, pop. 1200, H. De France. Branch line 8 m. N. To +Draguignan+on the Nartubie, pop. 10, 000. _Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. From the side of the H.  Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, on the Bresque. _Inn:_ H.  Bernard; 13½ m N. W. From Draguignan (see map, p.  123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to Aups, pop. 2350, on theGrave, 1657 ft. Above the sea, and 7½ m. N. From Salernes. _Inn:_Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence to Manosque by Riez (seep.  166). Also diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see p.  143). FromDraguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, pop. 1000, situatedhalf-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ BonneFoy; 6 m.  W. 

Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, whichattain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the clock-tower, 58ft. High, commanding an extensive view of the plain and of thesurrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad andintersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteenrows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardindes Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancientgateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principalproducts, ¾ m. From Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large dolmencomposed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slabis 16 ft. Long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others are each 7 ft. High, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, a splendidspecimen of a “micocoulier” (_Celtis australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft. High, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H.  Bertin, ascendthe street, and take the first road left. When within a few yards of thekilomètre stone, indicating 1 kil. From Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation(see map, p.  123). 

[Headnote: FREJUS. COLOSSEUM. ]

{98}{57}+FREJUS+, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran atthe S. W. Extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m. From N. To S. And 10 from E. To W. , traversed by the “Route de Paris enItalie, ” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E. , passes by theirhighest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. Above the sea. The peculiar charmof the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms ofthe bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombregreen pines which clothe these mountains. 

To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Portede Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the greatest diameterwas 224 ft. , with accommodation for upwards of 9000 spectators. On theeastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and the terrace calledthe Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a Roman lighthouse. Atthis part are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughoutis admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. The PorteDorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. Having visited the ruinsby the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave the town bya road having on the left hand a large building--the seminary. Havingwalked a few paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly squaretower, which marks the site of the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches inthis neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which broughtwater to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N. E. , and contained87 arches. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once)powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher partof the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining “éveché, ”belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. Inthe Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and well-executedcaryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and glimpses of theMediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The Phœnicianmerchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum Julii orFrejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or Agde. Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus. 

 [Map: The Estérel Mountains with Frejus and St. Raphaël to Cannes]

[Headnote: SAINT RAPHAEL. ]

{100½}{54½}+SAINT RAPHAEL+, a rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. Inwinter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, andin summer from the hot interior in quest of the cooling breezes and thestill more refreshing sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, theFrance, 8 to 9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. De St. Raphael, on aneminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. Des Bains, 9 to 13frs. ; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the cottagebuilt by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. Littlesteamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p.  134). Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and Valescure, 2 m. Inland, with G. H. De Valescure. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes asalubrious and agreeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by thebeach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Estérel mountains, wherethe rambles are endless. At the E. End of St. Raphael is a very pleasantpark, rising from the rocks on the coast. A little farther towardsCannes is the Boulerie, with a large hotel. 

Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, andhere he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coastare fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_. 

[Headnote: AGAY. SAINTE BAUME. ]

{105}{50}+AGAY+, a small custom-house station, with a few houses at the head of asmall but deep bay, into which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the topof the conical hill, on the S. W. Side of the station, is the +Tour deDarmont+, a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La SainteBaume, 4½ m. Distant, and a little to the N. Of the peak of Cape Roux, 1444 ft. Above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to theold château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railwayto an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards tothe summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into the valley inan eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of Cape Roux tilla stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway will be seen goingupwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge is reached, close tothe summit, where is a splendid view to the east and west andnorth-west; then take to the left, and in a few hundred yards aplatform, with a spout of running water and a couple of abandonedbuildings, is reached. Distance about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. Abovethis, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit’s life forsome years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from thehermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the wayremark, on the left hand, a truncated stone pillar, a Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archæologists base upon the existence of thisstone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At thebottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay. 

[Headnote: LE TRAYAS. ]

After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where amagnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +LeTrayas+, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. FromSt. Raphael, 6¼ m. E. From Agay, and 8¾ m. W. From Cannes. From Trayasalso a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considerednearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the trainpasses from the department of Le Var to the department of the AlpesMaritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and havingpassed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters thebeautifully-situated town of Cannes. 

 [Map: Cannes]

[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS. ]

CANNES, on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. From Marseilles, 79 m. N. E. FromToulon, 78¼ m. N. E. From Hyères, and 19¼ m. S. W. From Nice. Fixedpopulation, 19, 400. +Hotels and Pensions. +--Although there are alreadyvery many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas thereare about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging toresident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200, including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardensattached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett, agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also awell-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of thepublic without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25frs. Per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fairgratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. To 75 c. Perday. 

Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotelsand pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir, 8 frs. , in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In theBoulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs. , in garden. Fartherup the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near TrinityChurch, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs. , with very large gardenfronting the promenade. 

Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the hotels, 1½ fr. ; each portmanteau, ½ fr. 

The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the sea, is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable toproduce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and thereforemany prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ frontingstation, the Négociants; the [1]*Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the Allées, onthe beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. End of R. D’Antibes, the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs. ; and the H.  Russie, 9 to12 frs. 

 [Footnote 1: The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name of hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class. ]

_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking them inthe order from west to east:--The National, 9 to 15 frs. ; Midi, 8 to 12frs. ; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; the last fourare first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The H.  Suisse;Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to 12 frs. Behindthe Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H.  Midi, in the R.  Bossu, No. 8, the Post and Telegraph Offices. 

On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre;H.  Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix. A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. De France; H. Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs. 

Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are HotelsWindsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. De Californie isthe Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28thMarch 1884. 

In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all withgardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. Per day. 

At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the PensionLerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. A littlehigher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence aroad ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a first-class house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it isthe Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on theNouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs. 

On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, isthe *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is theH.  Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10frs. , well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is theH.  Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ Church, and on aneminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs. , a large house withgarden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa;and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs. , behind Lord Brougham’s villa. Fartherwest, and on the same level, is the H.  Estérel, same price. On a hill, a little beyond the perfume distillery of M.  Lubin, is the Pension de laTour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes iscalled La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there arefields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for theperfumeries (see page 161). 

[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS. ]

_Churches. _--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard duCannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique. Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the InvalidLadies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the RueNotre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet. 

Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood theoffice of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold. 

_Cab Fares. _--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr. ; the hour, 2½frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs. ; the hour, 3½ frs. Portmanteaus, ½ fr. Each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre forMarseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite andSt. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. There and back. On Thursdays and Saturdaystrips to Theoule, 2 frs. 

[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM. ]

Cannes extends 4½ m. From east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, andpartly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses andgardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards itextends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills, and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square, called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, atthe head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H.  Splendide. Between themis a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à Edinburgh, le 19Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868. ” He is in his officialrobes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose. The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and interestingcollections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. Theobliging director gives every assistance in naming the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church ofNotre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent. , with a reliquary of the 15th. Infront is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St. Anne, 13th cent. , the old chapel of the castle, and the square towercommenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II. , of the monastery of St. Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the toweris a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the newcemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. Themonument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearingthe following inscription:-- “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII. Decessit MDCCCLXVIII. ” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose, K. T. , died December 1874. 

_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nookssheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but onleaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. Themean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy days inthe year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice. “The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as itsequable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties ofthe atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatictemperaments. ” --Madden’s _Resorts_. “While Cannes, therefore, possessesa winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and manyclasses of invalids, especially those who require a stimulatingatmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of thosesuffering from affections of the respiratory organs. ” --_Dr. Hassall. _

[Headnote: DRIVES. ]

_Drives. _--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving incarriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for theirdestinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allées de laLiberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the Cours. The largest liverystables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge for a carriage, withcoachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen carry their tariffswith them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the“Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on theCours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of3 frs. For a 25 frs. Fare. 

[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS. ]

THE CORNICHE OF CANNES. 

The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe deJouan, 4 m. N. E. , then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N. , and 250 ft. Above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. S. W. By theCorniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with onehorse, 14 frs. ; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. By takingthe omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walkalong the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little belowMassier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road. About ½ m. From the bridgeis the “Observatoire de la Corniche, ” where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera. About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S. W. End of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden. 

The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545ft. Above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1 fr. Each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal whichsupplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, bywhich the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotelon the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal commences near thesource of the Siagne, a few miles from St. Cesaire. 

From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still highersummit, 795 ft. Above the sea, or 250 ft. Above the Belvédère. The viewis similar, including more of the interior. A short distance N. E. Fromthis is another summit, 804 ft. Above the sea, which from the top looksas if it were nearly over Antibes. 

Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return fromVallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe deJouan station is C.  Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the roadtowards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (p.  169). 

[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES. ]

+Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafés andrestaurants. The omnibus stops in the “Place” opposite the church andthe Hôtel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing aninscription, stating that “the Emperor Tiberius remade the road itrefers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority. ” Also a column, 4 ft. High and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription toConstantine. Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery, “Potteries Réfractaires, ” earthenware utensils, principally of the “marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery. 

+Vallauris to Antibes. +

 The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S. E. To Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. Above the sea. The road behind, extending N. W. , ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp.  154 and 169. )

CANNET. 

Two miles N. From Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is+Cannet+, 265 ft. , pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H. *Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste. Philomène is a smaller house, the H. And Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 theaccomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none ofthose broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the churchis the “Place, ” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab toCannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs. 

[Headnote: LA CROISETTE. ]

Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by thebeautiful road 2 m. Long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½fr. , or 2½ frs. The hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous. Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or driveby the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is theentrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides, ” occupying 4 acres. Thetrees stand in rows 12 ft. Apart, and were planted in 1852, when theywere from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges costabout a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best arethose the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process, and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette thereis a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortificationsbegun by Richelieu, but never completed. 

 _Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place, ” fare 1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the H. Escouffier and the H. Des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side of the entrance. From the N. Ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du Recrutement. ”

 [Map: Cannes & Environs]

[Headnote: CAP D’ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE. ]

 The +Cap d’Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the “Cap” from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via Crucis, ” bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. D’Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. Above the sea. The building is 82 ft. Higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For Antibes, see also p. 169. ) The great tower on a rock to the W. , overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine. 

[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE. ]

 +Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville. +--_La Croix des Gardes_, 2½ m. N. W. , and 498 ft. Above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. Side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is distilled. 

 _Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs. ; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c. , leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c. ; which, as it does not return till 4. 30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2 m. W.  The Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. Is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Eléonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the side of the rail. Three m. From Cannes, on an eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. Side of the road, is the poor little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas. 

[Headnote: ESTÉREL. PÉGOMAS. ]

 _Cannes to the Inn of Estérel_, 12 m. S. W. And 830 ft. Above the sea. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18 frs. ; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. Le Duc, 1265 ft. , a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. Above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The inn is situated to the N. Of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet, 876 ft. Above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. Above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft. , of the carriage-road is about 1¼ m. West from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also. 

 7 m. N. From Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of +Pégomas+, pop. 1350, on the Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or 16 frs. ; 1 hour’s rest. 

 About 3 m. N. W. Is +Auribeau+, pop. 480, prettily situated on the Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs. , with 2 hours’ rest. 

[Headnote: MOUGINS. CASTELARAS. ]

 4¾ m. N. From Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. Above the sea, is +Mougins+, pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, passing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about ¼ m. Below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab there and back, one horse, 12 frs. ; two horses, 16 frs. ; 1 hour’s rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful view. To the west is La Roquette, N. W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S. W. Near the sea, and on the border of the Estérels, is the village of Mandelieu. 

 4 m. N. From Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the new road, is +Castelaras+, 1050 ft. Above the sea. It is half a villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc. , to the north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc. , to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, and the Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to the south. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and tower are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883. 

 _Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste. Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle. 

ILES DE LERINS. 

The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. In circumference and 1½ m. From themainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at PointCroisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, containing theapartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the far moreinteresting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was closelyguarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the onlycommunication then being by the now walled-up door which led into thehouse of the governor, M. De St. Mars. From behind the prison a road, bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the pineplantation to the other side of the island. 

[Headnote: THE MAN OF THE IRON MASK. ]

The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli, a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has longsince been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in theUniversity of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service ofCharles III. , Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made Secretary ofState. The successor of Charles III. , Ferdinand Charles IV. , the lastsovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, created Matthiolisupernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the title of Count. Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador from France tothe Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was well awarewould be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his master, Louis XIV. , of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand Charlesto allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale, a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. Thecession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus, Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont, while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad andfertile plains of Milan. 

The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in theprosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communicationbetween himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in theperson of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, andwas besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him theschemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the Frenchcourt, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV. , who at the sametime presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly afterMatthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over by theAustrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and soexasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the AbbéEstrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards. For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé, accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach of international law required the adoption of extraordinary precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang, he was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled armed attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made any attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself. 

 By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in prison, till orders came from Paris, stating-- “It is not the intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well treated, nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life, nor anything to make his time pass agreeably. ” He was handed over to the charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence in 1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars removed his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste. Marguerite, where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of twelve days. 

 Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’ sojourn on the island are:--On one occasion he is alleged to have written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, on finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing, which he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk, who, when he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not read it. Two days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of these stories is to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the Minister, dated 4th June 1692, in which he informs him that he has been obliged to inflict corporeal punishment upon a Protestant clergyman named Salves, also in his keeping, because he would write things on his pewter vessels and linen, to make known that he was imprisoned unjustly on account of the purity of his faith. 

 In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September 1698. 

 On the 19th November 1703, about 10 P. M. , Matthioli died in the Bastile, after a few hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 P. M. In the cemetery of St. Paul. --Extracted from the _History of the Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport. 

[Headnote: THE ISLAND OF ST. HONORAT. ABBEY. MASSACRE. ]

 The Island of St. Honorat contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste. Marguerite, from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of 2½ m. , shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight from the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only since 1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410. In 730 and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the tower on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. Commenced the castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay brethren. 

 “What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany and southern Italy, +St. Honorat+ was to the church of southern Gaul. For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the more illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had been reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary, Cæsarius, and Virgilius. 

 “The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on the little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister. 

 “With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent. ” --J.  R. Green’s _Stray Studies_. 

[Headnote: CASTLE. ]

 The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a large hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and by others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In the wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. From the ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took possession of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown by the concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong cloister, in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor of the first is supported on short columns standing round the edge of a cistern. From this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and refectory. From the upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel, which opened into the library. Above the library was the infirmary, of which not a vestige remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors are next taken to the convent. The church and buildings are modern, excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend much time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last steamer, and have consequently little time to spare. 

[Headnote: CHAPEL OF THE TRINITY. ]

 By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th cent. , or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St. Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *+Trinity+, 35 ft. Long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of the three apsidal chapels are semispherical. 

[Headnote: PLAIN OF NAPOLEON. ]

 +Cannes to Grasse+, 12½ m. N. By rail, pop. 12, 100. _Hotels:_ the G. H. International, 9 to 12 frs. , a first-class house on the road to Le Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow, crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. Above the sea, on the southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly 695 ft. Above the town. To the N. E. Of Rocavignon is the Marbrière, 2920 ft. Above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite views. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a cavern or “foux, ” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses, built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours, is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, in which are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens--the Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The concierge uncovers them. [Headnote: JEAN FRAGONARD. ] Immediately below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church, built in the 11th cent. , but altered and repaired in the 17th. It contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of the 11th cent. 

 A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it. 

PERFUMERY. 

 The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are the Otto of Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. Avoirdupois of rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto of Roses, which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. The gramme; and 2¾ lbs. Troy of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade, is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Néroly forms the orange-water of the cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a layer of lard ⅓ of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (a kind of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which, combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then filtered. This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals require the hot methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie. ” The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat. Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or 24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose used. 

 At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of *Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of Warwick and Co. , and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material. 

[Headnote: ST. CESAIRE. CANNES CANAL. CALLIAN. ]

 _Grasse to St. Cesaire. _--9 m. W. By a beautiful road. Carriage there and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560 feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a large elm in the “Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs. ), where those who desire to fish in the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on its eastern side. The path to the cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the upper side of this canal, and requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour’s walk farther up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or “foux, ” at the base of a calcareous cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31 m. Long, exposed to animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course. Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p.  146, and map, p.  117) by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks, through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. Long, 27 wide, and 82 high, in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. Distant by a bridle-path, _Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel is about 9 m. Distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1½ m. From Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft. , supplied with water by the Roman aqueduct. 

 [Map: The Durance, the Var, the Col di Tenda, San Remo]

 Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and situated at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of +Mons+. Those who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the best flavoured of the Riviera. 

+Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station. +

 +Grasse+ to the railway station of +Cagnes+ by the +Pont du Loup+ and +Vence+, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This drive is generally taken in two parts--Grasse to the Pont du Loup; then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes. 

[Headnote: PONT DU LOUP. TOURETTE. ]

 _Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N. E. Carriage with two horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr. Distance, 5½ m. N. E. ; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. Up the valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup, which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on the same level (1090 ft. ) throughout its entire course, disclosing at every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. Over the Pont du Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see p.  169), 13½ m. Farther, or 21 m. From Grasse. The drive from Grasse to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15 m. Eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the “Imperial. ” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m. The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. Above the sea, where the omnibus halts. 

[Headnote: VENCE. ]

 +Vence+, 1100 ft. Above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or, pension 9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of its old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent. ) next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent. , in the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly mutilated. 

 The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. Long, 68 ft. Wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. Wide. Roof waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by the organ. At the N. E. Corner of the church is an ancient and beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was under the nave. The present “Place” behind the chancel was the public cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th cent. 

[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR. ]

 To the N. Of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs, extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. Above the sea. The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the +Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the Cagnes, a “foux, ” an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3½ m. From Vence. The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. The litre bottle. Vence is famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d. The pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz. ) in a day, for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. The kilo. 

[Headnote: CAGNES. ]

 The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop. 1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes. _Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling of the Salle Dorée, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see p. 169. )

ST. VALLIER. 

 +Grasse to Digne+, 63 m. North. --By the courrier 16 frs. , changing coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs. , Escragnolles 4 frs. , Castellane 8½ frs. , Barrème 11½ frs. , and Digne 16 frs. By private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day breakfasting at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map, p. 165). 

 The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier (2350 ft. Above the sea, or 1260 ft. Above Grasse, and 6½ m. Distant, population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains. The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the “Place, ” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I. , indicating the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815. ” The Hôtel du Nord is about 100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m. , costs 5 frs. The remainder can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St. Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-à-Dieu is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge, like the “Pont” across the Ardèche. 

 From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles, a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated 3282 ft. Above the sea, or 2192 ft. Above and 18 m. North from Grasse. A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley, one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground. 

[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE. ]

 19 m. N. W. From Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is +Castellane+, 2370 ft. Above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect. Napoleon I. Descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here. A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather. 18 m. W. From Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft. , and then descends to +Taulanne+, 7 m. N. W. From Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends 5 m. S. , chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620, among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during 1130 to 1242. 

[Headnote: BARRÈME. DIGNE. ]

 44¼ m. N. W. From Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. From Digne, is +Barrème+, pop. 1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline spring. The road from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the valleys of the Asse and the Clumane. 

 +Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. Above the sea, 14 m. E. By loop-line from the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. From Marseilles, 62¼ m. N. From Aix, and 20½ m. N. From Manosque. It is 109½ m. S. From Grenoble; 45½ m. S. From Aspres, the terminus of the road from Die; 41 m. S. From Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to Gap; and 31¾ m. S. From Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons (see map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655), one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly ground rising from the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent. , numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. Up the Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs, temp. 115° Fahr. , efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism. Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March 1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. Per day, and both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p.  165). 

[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS. ]

 Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is to +Riez+, 26 m. S. W. , fare 4 frs. , time 4½ hrs. , a great diligence centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St. Maxime. _Inn:_ H. Des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque, 22 m. W. , by Allemagne, 5 m. ; St. Martin, 8 m. ; and to Gréoulx (see p.  167), 12½ m. S. W. From Riez, and 9½ m. E. From Manosque, fare 4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p.  167), 9 m.  E. , by Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18 m. S. , by Quinson. Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian, H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E. , _Inn:_ H. Du Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to Barjols, _Inn:_ H.  Pont d’Or, 9½ m. S. , whence other coaches run to Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7½ m. W. , whence to Volx railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25 m. N. , by Puymoisson, 3¾ m. N. ; Le Begude, 8 m. ; Estoublon, 11¾ m. ; Mezèl on the Asse, _Inn:_ H. Du Cours, 15¾ m. ; and Châteauredon, 7½ m. S. From Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and cherries (see map, p. 165). 

 Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally, enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns, bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4 composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent. , restored and altered in 1857. It is 17 yds. Long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At the S. W. Corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre. 

[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE. ]

 A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E. , fare 2 frs. , is to the curious village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. Du Mouton Couronné. The village consists of poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes, at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these precipices is a chain 745 ft. Long, from which was suspended a gilt iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the “Via Crucis, ” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. Side rises a square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. From Moustiers is Castellane, but no public coach runs between them. 

[Headnote: BATHS OF GRÉOULX. ]

 12½ m. W. From Riez, and 9½ m. E. From Manosque, is +Gréoulx+, pop. 1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than ½ m. From the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day, 10 frs. , which is dear considering the quality of the house and furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is 1150 ft. Above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia, the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165). 

[Headnote: MANOSQUE. ]

 +Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, 22 m. North from Pertuis, 41½ m. From Aix, 48½ m. From Gardanne, and 59½ m. From Marseilles. 4½ m. South from Volx, 20½ m. From St. Auban, 31 m. From Sisteron, 61½ m. From Veynes, 66 m. From Aspres, and 130½ m. From Grenoble (see map of Rhône and Savoy). 

 _Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. De Versailles; and the Poste. Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily recognised by the square belfry attached to the S. E. End. Within the main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the façade leads to the principal “Place, ” where there is a fountain, and whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble sarcophagus, 5th cent. , with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles, and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a silver bust by Puget of Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs. , 22 m. E. ; to the baths of Gréoulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m. W. , by Reillane 15½ m. , and Céreste 20½ m. W. +Volx+ station is the intended terminus of the rail from Apt. 

[Headnote: VALLAURIS. ]

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to MENTON

{124}{31}+GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station isa short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after hisarrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined withvillas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station arepottery showrooms. 

[Headnote: ANTIBES. ]

{127}{28}+ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortifiedport founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers, without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerablehouses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to theirvalour. Those wishing a bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend thetower beside the church. The bellman’s house is close by. The wine ofAntibes is of superior quality (see p.  154). From Antibes stationomnibus to Biot, pop. 1400. 

{132}{23}+VENCE-CAGNES. + At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes, pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, andcontains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by thesame road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and severalinteresting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers forperfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from theterrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Niceruns a diligence (see p.  165). 

{136}{19}+VAR. + This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at theeastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N. W. Fromthe station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries orpépinières, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N. E. From thestation, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. Thefirst is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest bythe Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments. 

At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place inJanuary. 

NICE

is 140 m. N. E. From Marseilles, 95½ m. N. E. From Toulon, 95¼ m. N. E. From Hyères, 39 m. N. E. From St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N. E. From Cannes. It is 9½ m. W. From Monaco, 15 m. S. W. From Menton, 23½ m. S. W. FromBordighera, and 30 m. S. W. From San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf). Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon, mostly covered over, pop. 66, 300. 

[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS. ]

Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in theorder of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the“Jardin Public. ” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; andopposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of thecercle is the H.  Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18frs. ; the H. Méditerranée, H.  Westminster, and the H.  West End, allfirst-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. Per day. 

The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they haveconsiderable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of thesea so much. The H. De l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11frs. , No. 77; the H.  Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard duMidi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are theBeau Rivage; the H. Des Princes, 12 to 15 frs. ; and on the Quai desPouchettes, the *H. Et P.  Suisse, 8½ to 12 frs. 

Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterreand the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. De France; while in thePlace Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, andthe terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is theCasino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are thehotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the gardenin the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly byFrench, the H.  Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs. 

On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels andpensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards therailway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, DeuxMondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurswith garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. And R.  Duval, 9 to 12 frs. Atthe top of the R. De la Gare, the H.  National, 9 to 12 frs. , and theHotel des Alpes. 

In the streets at right angles to the R. De la Gare near the H.  IlesBritanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, andsome comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best ofthe hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp, near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, theH. Et P. Des Palmiers, and the H.  Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Nearthe Splendide is the P.  Java, 9 to 11 frs. 

 [Map: Nice]

Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. Et P. DeGenève. Next the Russian Church is the P.  Helvétique. Near it theH.  Royal; the H. Et P.  Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St. Etienne, 8 to 12 frs. 

At W. End of the R. De la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs. ; near itthe Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens. 

Opposite the station the H. Et P. Du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down theH. Et P.  Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. With wine. 

From the E. Side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to theBoulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is theTheatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and theH. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B.  Dubouchage are thefirst-class houses--the H.  Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind theAlbion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. Et P. D’Orient. The large building inthe B.  Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American EpiscopalChurch. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H.  Central and the G. H. *Rubion. 

The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B.  Dubouchage, andabout the B.  Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sunthemselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At theCarabacel end of the B.  Dubouchage are the first-class houses--theH.  Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminencein a garden off the B.  Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on theB.  Carabacel, the H.  Bristol, P. Londres, H. De Paris, and houses withfurnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church, and near it the Hôtel Carabacel. 

On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near theConvent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. Et P. *Barthélemy, on the road tothe Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès Hill, onopposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. Et P.  Cimiès, and thePension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about2 m. From Nice, and 430 ft. Above it. The tram from the Place Massenahas its terminus near the P.  Barthélemy. The H.  Cimiès has its ownomnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of theP.  Anglaise. 

In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. De France, andits continuation the R.  Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderateprices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, ingarden, the P.  Torelli. On the hill behind the H. De Rome, 12 frs. AtNo. 121 is the H. De l’Elysée, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. ; and opposite, the H. DuPavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 theP.  Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. In the Place Massena the H. Et R.  Helder, 18 frs. For commercialgentlemen the best is the H. Des Étrangers, R.  Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs. 

Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through theprivate pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings. In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, wherethey can arrange at the prices given:--H. Du Midi, opp. Station, 8 to 11frs. , 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H. Des Alpes and the H.  National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. Et P. De Londres, 8 to 10 frs. With wine. In the Rue de France the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglaisthe Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs. , including everything. In the R.  Gioffredo the H. AndR.  Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs. 

[Headnote: CAFÉS. BANKS. ]

_Cafés. _--The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants. _--The *LondonHouse, Pl. Du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. De la Gare, and at No. 11 Rest. D’Europe. _Clubs or Cercles. _--The Cercle de laMéditerranée in the Prom. Des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean. 

_Banks. _--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kindsof banking business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais, ” 15Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena;Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare. 

_House Agents. _--John Arthur and Co. , 1 Place Jardin Public; C.  Jougla, 55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co. , 2 R. Du Temple. 

_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi. Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time, the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nicetime. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45, 000volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P. M. It contains a fewantiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bustof Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 PlaceGaribaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. Above the sea. 

 _Booksellers. _--Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. Gaze’s is at No. 13, and Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare. 

 _Druggists. _--Of these there are excellent English establishments in the principal streets. 

_Confectioneries and Perfumeries. _--Of the confections the _specialité_of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing100 grammes, or 3½ oz. , for 5 frs. The box. The most expensive of theglazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. The kilogramme (2 lbs. 3¼ oz. ), strawberries, 10 frs. , and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All theothers cost either 5 or 6 frs. The kilo. The best shops are-- *CaëtanFéa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and*Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel’s garden and perfume distilleryare near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon. 

[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES. ]

_Churches. _--Temple Évangélique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; RussianMemorial Chapel, N. W. From the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp;German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. TrinityChurch, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue St. Michel; CarabacelEpiscopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church, in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide. 

Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly. 

_Coach hire. _--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. Permonth. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, wherecarriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month. 

_Cabs. _--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse andseat for 2, the course 75 c. ; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2, 2½ frs. ; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr. ; thehour, 3½ frs. 

To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr. ; with seats for 4, 1½fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c. , and 25 c. For each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, toengage the cab by the hour. 

All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena. 

[Headnote: CONTES. ]

_Diligences. _--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, startdaily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. Above the sea, and 37 m. N. From Nice. Fare 6 frs. , time 10 hrs. (see p.  180). Coach toPuget-Théniers, 1476 ft. Above the sea, and 42 m. N. W. From Nice. Fare2½ frs. , time 9 hrs. (see p.  182). To St. Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p.  182). Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the lowCorniche road. From the office, Place St. François, start:--Coach toCuneo, 80 m. N. , by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs. , time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. Above the sea, and 51 m. N. From Nice. Fare 9 frs. , time 11 hrs. (see p.  182). From Hôtel ChapeauRouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. Above the sea, and 15 m. N. From Nice. Fare 3 frs. , time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or, Rue de l’Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr. , time 2 hrs. , 10½ m. N. Up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village ofTrinité--Victor, 5½ m. N. , pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of thePaillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. Distant by a path, theruins of the village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want ofwater. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orangetrees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seatsto Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs. ; ½ hour’s rest allowed. 

[Headnote: CLIMATE. ]

_Climate. _--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice andCannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice atrifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on themountains. M.  Teysseire has preserved and published records of twentyyears’ meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placedoutside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. Hismean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sakeof comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:--

 MEAN TEMPERATURE. 

 Nice. Cannes. November 53. 8 52. 6 December 48. 5 46. 3 January 47. 1 48 February 46. 2 48. 8 March 51. 8 51 April 58. 1 55. 5

The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes. --_HealthResorts_, by M.  Marcet, M. D. 

[Headnote: VALLONS. ]

Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the MaritimeAlps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddishconglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between theseridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides, scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, thebreadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in thestream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The greatvallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnanexemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tramstops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening fromthe right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearlyperpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. Apart. Higher up theMagnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is themore beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, whichhigh up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as tobe almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and themore level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entranceare beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made. The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantéga (see plan), hasgreat walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate isquarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixedwith lime, makes excellent mortar. 

The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new orfashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containingavenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered withlarge and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and“pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty, steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, andrunning up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it from, 3d, the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour. 

During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city, with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. Inwinter the population may be estimated at 90, 000, whereas in summer itis only about 54, 000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in thelargest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuatingpopulation inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddledtogether between the Paillon and the Château hill. 

[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY. ]

The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the Englishin 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautifulterraced walk, 85 ft. Broad, extends 2 m. Along the beach of the Baiedes Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan, whence it will be continued other 3 m. West to the mouth of the riverVar, near the Racecourse. 

Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft. , commanding from theplatform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. Are thepeninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, FortMontalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings. To the N. Is Mt. Chauve; to the E. The roofs of Nice; and in thedistance the Roche-Blanche (p.  164), the peninsula of Antibes, and theEstérels. This fortress, founded by the early Phœnician colonists, anddestroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razedto the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV. , by Maréchal Berwick. Nowit has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains, over the Hôtel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably addedto the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. Side of the hill(see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is themonument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881. ”Towards the E. End, at the wall, is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19thMarch 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. Inthe highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. Ina terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery. 

[Headnote: CATERINA SEGURANA. MEMORIAL CHAPEL. ]

Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of KingCharles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Seguraneto the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent. On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attackedthe allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbonand the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand thestandard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi wasborn, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Portbefore its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the RueSegurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in1510. At the east end of the R. De la Préfecture, last street left, No. 15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted infresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle. ” This is alsothe street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died(1840) in the house No. 14 R. De la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels ofthe doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churchesin the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding andvariously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue dela Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected inNice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became toosmall, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a costof £6000. To the N. W. Of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne, in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, a series ofascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in whichthe Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior iscovered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blueground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoesof saints in niches. 

The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and thehandsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare, ” extending in a straightline northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance arethe Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the bestshops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behindthe Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provisionkind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, anddressmakers. At the east end of the +Rue de France+ is the Croix deMarbre, a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erectedin 1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V. , Francis I. , andPaul III. In 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentatesthrough the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemoratesthe visits of Pio VII. In 1809 and in February 1814. Near this isTrinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, thesecond Protestant church built in Nice. 

[Headnote: ANDRÉ MASSENA. ]

On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is thelarge and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the prettypublic garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, inan animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal ofFrance, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, whichstood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleonto stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “todrive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea. ” But the warystrategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general provedresistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by amasterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in thechronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, butit is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of theriver, called the “Jardin Public, ” planted with magnolias, acacias, Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band playshere in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is onthe Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to thesummit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery. 

[Headnote: CIMIÈS. ]

All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Garelead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice, and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m. Distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiès (430 ft. Above the sea), another favoured spot, frequented principally by nervous invalidsrequiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Romancity Cemenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of anamphitheatre 210 ft. Long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Princede Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered inthis neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superbvilla Val Rose, which in shape resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behindG.  H. Windsor. The first road right from the theatre leads to aFranciscan convent built in 1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. Thealtar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were paintedby Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only artist ofeminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some beautifultombstones. In the centre of the “Place, ” on a spiral marble column, isa crucifix with a winged J.  C. Above is a pelican feeding its young, a favourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages. 

A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to St. Pons (p.  179). 

At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The firsthall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; andseparate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold inthe market for food. 

[Headnote: DRIVES. ]

The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. East, either by thehigh Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing aboveMonaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises much above thecoast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An omnibus runsdaily between the Boul. Du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by this road (seep.  187). 

Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs. ; ½ hour’srest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the Pont Neuf, near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) start forVillefranche, ½ fr. ; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. Onfeast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St. Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H.  Victoria, wherebouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, closeto the station, is the *H. Et P. Des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs. Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in theomnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with 2horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round MtBoron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in acoach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour. 

[Headnote: VAL-OBSCUR. ]

+Nice to the Val-Obscur+, 4 m. N. --Take tram from the Place Massena toSt. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the VillaChambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend bythe road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to theleft, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of thewater-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, butas it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of theconduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yardslong, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. High, and 7 ft. Apart at their narrowest point. By continuing this path for alittle distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing overby a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence aroad ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft. Above the sea, or only 1324 ft. Below the summit of Mt. Chauve. 

The +Vallon des Fleurs+ ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olivetrees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of thevalley is about 10 minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of thetram. A path leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leadsround by the head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which itjoins nearly opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up thevalley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (ForCimiès, see p.  177. )

[Headnote: VILLA CLERY. ST. PONS. GROTTE ST. ANDRE. ]

A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about 3¾ m. N. From Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. André. A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5 frs. ; with 2 horsesand 4 seats, 7 frs. ; ½ hour’s stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. Butif the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. When about 1½ m. Upthe Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard ofthe Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yetin the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. Theoranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. The 100, and packed and despatchedto order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the morebeautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of thehill (430 ft. ), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery ofCimiès, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near theCroix de Marbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edificepassed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 bySt. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Romansenator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor is said to havespent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it wasdestroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, Bishop ofNice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was annexed tothe house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part where thestream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. From the Place Massena, is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4 frs. Per day, second 3 frs. A little higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660, and (on a hill) the château of St. André. The château is a plain housewith a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by thebrothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school andpart is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is asmall petrifying spring. From the château an avenue of ill-conditionedcypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. André. Fee, ½ fr. Each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. Long and 25 ft. High, through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. André, dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through itin a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions aresold. 

From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes sonarrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the roadand the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visitthe cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. Thosein carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, a villageperched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. André. 

_To the Observatory_, 1215 ft. Above the sea, constructed in 1881 at theexpense of M.  Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of thePlace Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend bythe Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a house, ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. Theestablishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are thevarious buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on thewest side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. Long and 46broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each enddwelling-houses. 

[Headnote: LEVENS. LANTOSQUE. ST. MARTIN LANTOSQUE. COL DI FINESTRA. ]

+Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque. +

 (Map, page 165, and Map of Rhône and Savoy. )

_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque. _--Diligence from Nice to St. Martin, 37 m. N.  From St. Martin to Entraque, on the north side of theCol di Finestra, 8 hrs. By mule, considered equal to 25 m. From Entraqueto Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, 24 m. N. By coach. 

 The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon, and after passing the villages of St. André (p.  179) and Tourette, near the ruins of Châteauneuf, arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. Des Étrangers, where the coach halts a short time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and then descends into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, where it passes through the village of Duranus, 18 m. From Nice, pop. 1500. Then, after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. Long, crossed the Vesubie, and passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. From Nice, it reaches the village of Lantosque, 28½ m. From Nice, 1640 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. Des Alpes Maritimes. On a plateau 765 ft. Above Lantosque, and 1¼ m. Distant, is La Bollène, with a large hotel, charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. The coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3½ m. From Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. Above the sea. It is the station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with a comfortable hotel on a plateau 755 ft. Above Roquebillère. From Roquebillère the coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the villages of Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to +St. Martin Lantosque+, 37 m. From Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. Above the sea. An ancient village at the junction of the Vesubie with the Salèses. In the “Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn, the H. Des Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, 6 frs. Up by the side of the promenade are some good pensions. On the opposite hill, ½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. Higher, is the village of Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with chestnut and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. Martin commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. Above the sea, called thus from a fancied resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide to Entraque, 22 frs. ; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. Up the Vesubie is the stone which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. Farther the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. Above the sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable _Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary. Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft. , is attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France. At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo. 

[Headnote: VALDIERI. ]

 A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about 20 m. Distant, time 7 to 8 hrs. , by the Salèses, which it follows all the way to the Col de Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between two mountains, 8745 ft. And 8964 ft. Respectively above the sea. It then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N. E. To Cuneo, passing by the village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. Above the sea, 10 m. N. From the baths, and 7½ m. S. From the next village, Roccavione, in the picturesque valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. From Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at the junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso. 

 A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. From St. Martin, whence it ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft. , and then follows the course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, the writer [Ed. ] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants, several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The geology is also interesting, and would probably repay further examination. A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly-inclined and much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts overlaid by nummulitic deposits. ” --_The Western Alps_, by John Ball. 

[Headnote: PUGET-THENIERS. SAINT SAUVEUR. ]

 _Nice to Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N. W. By the Vallon du Var, which does not become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. From Nice, at the junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. From Chaudan) meets the Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop. 1450, 1476 ft. Above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty village on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of bare precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes, pop. 1300, on the Var, 22 m. N. , _Inn:_ Ginié. The roads beyond are traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. From Puget. 

 The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On the Tinée, 40½ m. N. From Nice, is +Saint Sauveur+, pop. 800, _Inn:_ Vial, with Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating from 1309. Hot and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock called the Guez. From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by the Tinée to St. Etienne, where there is an inn. From St. Etienne, pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col Valonet to Vinadio (see map, p. 165). 

[Headnote: GIANDOLA. SAORGIO. ]

+Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda. +

 Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m. , 11 hours, 9 frs. ; Tenda to Cuneo, 29 m. , 7 hours, 7 frs. ; Cuneo to Turin, by rail, 3 hours (see maps, pp. 165 and 107). This is rather a fatiguing journey. The most beautiful views are seen during the descent from Tenda to the Mediterranean. +Nice. +--Start from the Place St. François. The road ascends the E. Bank of the Paillon by the villages of +Trinité-Victor+, pop. 1300, and +Drap+, pop. 800, with a sulphurous spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and crosses over to +Escarène+ on the Braus, 12½ m. N. E. From Nice, pop. 1500. About 1½ m. Farther is +Touet+, pop. 400, whence commences the tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine on the S. And Mt. Ventabren on the N. The road now descends to +Sospel+, 1125 ft. , pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roja, 25½ m. N. E. From Nice. H. Carenio; coach daily to and from Menton, 14 m. S. The road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft. , whence passengers in this direction have their last view of the Mediterranean. The descent is now made through bleak and barren mountains to +Giandola+, 39¼ m. N. E. From Nice, 1247 ft. , at the base of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ Étrangers, Poste. Coach daily between this and Ventimiglia. To the E. , on the Roja, are Breglio, pop. 2580, and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The road now ascends a narrow defile of the +Roja+, which, suddenly widening, discloses +Saorgio+, pop. 1600, 400 ft. Above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill is the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. From this the valley contracts so much that the road has repeatedly to cross and re-cross the river on its way to Fontana on the Italian frontier, 43 m. From Nice, pop. 1230. Luggage and passports are examined here. Almost the only habitat of the curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is between Fontana and Breglio. The road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m. N. , passes through one of the most formidable defiles in the Alps, the Gorge de Berghe, between steep massive walls of igneous rock. “The bold forms of the cliffs, and the luxuriant vegetation which crowns every height and fills every hollow, make the scenery of this road worthy to compare with almost any other more famous Alpine pass. ” --_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a hydropathic establishment, pension 8 frs. Coach daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda. 

[Headnote: LIMONE. CUNEO. ]

 51 m. N. E. From Nice, 2 m. S. From the tunnel, and 12 m. S. From Limone, is the village of +Tenda+, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H.  National; 2680 ft. Above the sea, and 1516 ft. Below the tunnel; situated on the Roja at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The tunnel, opened in 1882--4196 ft. Above the sea at the Tenda end, and 4331 ft. At the Limone end--is 9844 ft. Long and 23 ft. High. The Tenda end of the tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the Cuneo end at the hamlet La Panice. From La Panice the road descends rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone+, 3668 ft. , 63 m. N. E. From Nice and 17 m. S. From Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. De la Poste; pleasantly situated in the valley of the Vermanagna, from which an occasional glimpse may be had of Monte Viso, 12, 670 ft. The road, after passing Robillante, Roccavione, and +Borgo-San-Dalmazzo+, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo, 80 m. N. E. From Nice, 1500 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ Barra di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the confluence of the Stura with the Gesso. 55 m. N. By rail is Turin. 

[Headnote: MONDOVI. ]

 The easiest way to go to +Turin+ from +Nice+ is to take the rail to Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N. W. By Carru, Bra, and Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. From Savona, is the Santuario di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for poor devotees (p.  210). From Carru station, 50 m. N. , a branch line extends 8 m.  S. To +Mondovi+, pop. 17, 000, on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tré Limoni d’Oro. From Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m. S. , in the valley of the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance, 8 frs. ; cave, 2½ frs. Each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S. W. From Mondovi, and about the same S. E. By coach from Cuneo, is the +Certosa di Val Pésio+, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September. Pension, 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed, and well situated for botanists, fishers, and sketchers. 

 At the station S.  Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. From Savona, is the junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N. , by Acqui, 31 m. N. , traversing a picturesque country, between S.  Giuseppe and Acqui, where it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida. 

[Headnote: ACQUI. ]

 +Acqui+, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21 m. S. By rail from Alessandria. _Hotels:_ Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing establishment, a large building with abundant accommodation. The pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs. , including the use of the water, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and were known to the Romans under the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient remains immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a warm mineral water bath. “The therapeutic influence of this application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements, rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of secondary syphilis, and rheumatism. ” --Dr. Madden’s _Health Resorts_. 

[Headnote: VILLEFRANCHE. ]

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to MENTON

{142½}{12½}+VILLEFRANCHE+, pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieuxat Nice, also by rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine. Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St. John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that ofCimiès and Carabacel. 2 m. E. From Nice, at the head of a deep narrowbay, 2 m. Long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche+, founded in the 13th cent. By Charles II. , King of Naples. The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. Each person. From Villefranche commences the splendid +Road to Monaco+, 8 m. Long and 18 ft. Wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. From Villefranche by rail, or 1¾ by road, is

 [Map: The Corniche Road: Nice to Menton]

[Headnote: BEAULIEU. PORT OF ST. JEAN. ]

{143½}{11½}+BEAULIEU+, famed for its large olive trees. A little above the stationis one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. Des Anglais among“countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by autumn’s blast orwintry skies. ” Down towards the village is another old olive tree, notfar from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco road is theRestaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In thecreek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a beautifulplace. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of the Riviera, at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of reddishsandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with trees, which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were transparent;while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggleas far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind the olives, and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon trees, bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall shrubshang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeksand bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges ofmarble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, carpetedin some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the PosidoniaCaulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of theMediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up atvarious parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degreeevaporation. 

A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads fromBeaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the peninsula tothe +Port of St. Jean+. The real carriage-road commences at the railwaybridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends toSt. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. Thecontinuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse, passing the signal-tower to the right. 

The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used principally by thetunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes a very pleasantresidence for artists and naturalists. It is situated among creeks andbays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part ofthe peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula of St. Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed bythe Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry aroundbelonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the10th cent. “A fir-clad mound amid the savage wild bears on its brow avillage, walled and isled in lone seclusion round its ancient tower. Itwas a post of Saracens, whose fate made them the masters for long yearsof lands remote and scattered o’er a hundred strands. ” --_Guido andLita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. Below, towards the point, are acemetery, a church, 11th cent. , visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, anda battery. 

[Headnote: LIGHTHOUSE. ]

At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse(second-class), built in the 17th cent. , but repaired, and the top storyadded, in 1836. It is 98 ft. High, or 196 ft. Above the sea, and isascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen ata distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of thefirst-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of CharlesBest, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tombis hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in agrand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Largeeuphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula. 

[Headnote: PETITE AFRIQUE. EZE. ]

EZE. 

The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu andEze, the next station, 2 m. Distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. Thesteep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are soexposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region hasbeen called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt terminationof a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the sea, towhich it is so close that both the rail and the road have to passthrough it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the equallypicturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a phalanx oflofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. High) of oneof this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearlydeserted village of +Eze+, pop. 770, with the ruins of its castlefounded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored, built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Ezeis said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under theremains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine landscape displays itself, while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft. ) of the Cornicheroad, which here crosses the ridge terminated by Mt. Roux. At the Passare an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near thestation. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, andthroughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations offirs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing itleisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road, andanother descends to St. Laurent, on the road to Monaco. A little beyondEze is the station for La Turbie. 

[Headnote: MONACO. ]

100 min. From Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is

{149}{6}+MONACO+ station, situated in La Condamine. At the station (6) anomnibus awaits passengers for Monaco on the top of the S. W. Promontory, 195 ft. Above the sea. For Monte Carlo, on the top of the N. E. Promontory, alight at the next station, 1¼ m. N. E. 

+Monaco proper+, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs. , splendid viewfrom the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel andMuratore. Till the arrival of F.  Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor place, where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from theproduce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches ofscanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that thegambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality, wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnishedanew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent. , thrown down, and in itsstead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled withplenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly aridhills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have beenbuilt in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a fewyears ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat. The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a companywith the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in thePlace du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced tobuild a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they soldtheir rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc. 

[Headnote: THE PALACE. ]

The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territorysince 968, when the Emperor Otto I. Gave it to Grimaldi I. , Lord ofAntibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens from theGrand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez (p.  145). The greatest length of theprincipality, from the cemetery wall at the western extremity to thebrook St. Roman at the eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m. , and thegreatest breadth, from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population10, 000, distributed among four different centres--the city, or Monacoproper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. Theyare all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupiesits own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coastof the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. Above the sea, is mosteasily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. At thelandward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which therooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public oncertain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, datefrom the commencement of the 13th cent. , but the rest is much moremodern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle, the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by thechapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Withinthe entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side withfriezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865, representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side ahorse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to anarcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni, representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left andright of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To leftthe first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin;hangings and furniture in style Louis XV. ; some family portraits on thewalls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone. Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III. , Prince of Monaco. Ceilingpainted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings andgreen furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed picturesrepresenting the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with redfurniture; style Louis XIII. 

Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York, brother of George III. ; red furniture and hangings; family portraits, some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom inwhich he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered scarlet satin;ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegantbedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low screen. 3. Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture andwalls covered with white satin richly embroidered. 

The door in the N. W. Corner of the court gives access to a very prettygarden, 130 ft. Above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers. Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden. 

At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with moneybequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long, and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view. Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs, and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de laVisitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down onthe face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. Theyspread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or over the prickly pearplants, here very abundant. At this end is also the Jardin St. Martin, a very pretty promenade, with charming views. 500 yards west from thefoot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid road to Villefranche, is thecemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Amongthe many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre andModestine Neri, brother and sister. 

[Headnote: LA CONDAMINE. ST. DEVOTA. ]

On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlois +La Condamine+, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable, a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesquegully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church, on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, a Roman martyr, thepatroness of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince ofMonaco, caused the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off forhaving stolen the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains theharbour and the principal railway station, as well as the less expensivehotels, such as the G. H. Des Bains between the sea and the gas-works, and the Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine;Étrangers; Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; inall, board and lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H.  Nice andDes Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels:Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late MadameBlanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: theParis; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; stillhigher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines ofFrance; in all, 15 to 20 frs. Per day. Behind the Londres a narrow laneleads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotelsmarked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuouscompany. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms. English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean wintertemperature, 49°. 3. _Cabs. _--The course, within the principality, 1½fr. ; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. The omnibus that runsbetween Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road starts from the Casino (seepage 178). 

[Headnote: MONTE CARLO. ]

Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupttermination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to theCorniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyondthe territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather ofFocinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected in1862 by F.  Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and formerly theproprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance intothe Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is theconcert-room--a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with giltornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the Musesand mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned arm-chairscovered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied by theorchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued. Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince andhis suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino. The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom aboutthree-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entranceare the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors give their namesand addresses before entering. In the first three rooms are the tablesfor roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which the smallestsum admitted is 5 frs. , and the largest 6000 frs. Or £240. The fourthroom, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and Boulanger, representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, fishers, archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted totrente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs. , andthe largest 12, 000 frs. Or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at thetables. 

Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, andunder it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting gallery. Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramifyin all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and along the coasteither to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent coast-road toVillefranche (see p.  184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, isstudded, even beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas, partially hidden among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the easternside of Monte Carlo is +Les Moulins+, now quite a town, with shops, hotels, restaurants, and furnished lodgings. Up on the main road is theHôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs. , dear. Down below on the coast-road, fronting the sea, is a small house, the Hôtel du Parc. 

[Headnote: GAMBLING-ROOMS. LES MOULINS. LEMONS. ]

At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined tothat horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them inthe clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no onecan gamble on credit. About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulinsby the main road is the valley of St. Roman, with some very large oliveand locust trees. In the principality are also large groves of lemontrees. They flower and bear fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons, which ripen in spring, are called graneti, and those which ripen insummer verdami. They are the juiciest, and as they keep longest, are themost suitable for exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in isthat made from old tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon andolive trees is composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse. 

_Excursions. _--1640 feet above Monaco is +La Turbie+, ascended by a roadcontaining 860 terraced steps, of which the best are 14 feet long by9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the most are in badcondition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one hour. Itcommences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from therailway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three restaurants--theFrance, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most frequented. Bedrooms, 2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful after a hot climb. When up atLa Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus to the little knoll close byand take a seat under the rock at the top, whence “From ancientbattlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks and curving bays. ” Butthe one great view, which excels all the others, is from the

[Headnote: TÊTE DE CHIEN. ]

+Tête de Chien. +

The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +LaTurbie+. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the top, permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow of themighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a splendiduninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the other places. From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, town, village, cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the western side theview is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and the Mauremountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les Moulins, Mt. De la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, Menton, Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, whichconceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western sideembraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of St. Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, Antibes, thelighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel mountains, andthe Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. A good opera-glassshould be taken. A stony road leads down the west side of the Tête, through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco road, which it joins nearthe battery (see map, p.  185). 

[Headnote: LA TURBIE. ]

+La Turbie+, the ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, isa poor village, composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gatewaysclose to the massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intactfor 1700 years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by aprince of Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied withexcellent water from a spring to the N. W. Of Mt. Agel. To the west ofTurbie, at the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to thesanctuary of Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m. From Nice, but scarcely 2 from La Turbie. 

The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. La Bataille, and thelong ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft. , are theChâteau mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals thatfrom the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stonypaths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbiereservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for theChateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round intoa narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of theChâteau mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, onehalf-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and LesMoulins is La Justice, 911 ft. , used as a quarry. On the top is a pillarof rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are theremains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up tothe Corniche road (see map, page 185). 

{150¼}{4¾}+MONTE CARLO+ station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels onMonte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels. 

[Headnote: ROQUEBRUNE. ]

{152½}{2½}+ROQUEBRUNE+ station, where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins thelow road from Menton. 

+Roquebrune+, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. Above the station and the sea, amonggreat masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road a series ofpaved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees. The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and morecomfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in theneighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace is asmall restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the greatcastle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded it toCharles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almostdefaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the armorialbearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop issupposed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. OfFrance, who repaired this castle in 1528. A broken staircase leads up tothe top. “No warrior’s tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’schallenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply theirtoil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil from trees that havefor purple mountains made a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid. ”--_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. 

[Headnote: MENTON. HOTELS. ]

699 m. S. E. From Paris, 155 m. N. E. From Marseilles, 34½ m. N. E. FromCannes, and 15½ m. N. E. From Nice, is

MENTON, population 11, 100, 16 miles S. W. From San Remo. _Hotels andPensions. _--Commencing with those at the west end of the Promenade duMidi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town to theGaravan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea andesplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The asterisksignifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the price giventhat of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or boarding-house. Atthe west end of the esplanade the ²H. Du Pavilion; the H. St. George, 9-12 frs. , W 1½ fr. , by the side of the Borrigo; ²*P. Condamine; *H. EtP.  Londres. These 4 houses charge from 9 to 12 frs. , W from 1½ to 2 frs. Near the Carrei and the Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H. Splendide, 9-12 frs. , W 1½ fr. ; the Parc, 8-10 frs. , W 1½ fr. ; and the²*Russie, 9-12 frs. , W 1½ fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a verysheltered promenade up the eastern bank. By the side of the Place (wherethe band plays), built over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. DeParis, 10-14 frs. , W 1½ fr. Same side, ²H. Et P. D’Angleterre, 9-12 frs. Opposite, the H.  Camous, 9-12 frs. ; and the Banque Bottini. Situated inthe busiest part of Menton are the *P. And H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs. , W1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and Tonin-Amaranté;and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. Opposite, the²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. De Menton, all large goodhouses, charging 9-15 frs. The H.  Menton is patronised by Messrs. Cook. Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to the sea, is the Midi, sameprice. We now enter the eastern or most sheltered quarter, called theGaravan. The hotels are large and first-class, and charge from 10 to 20frs. , and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. The most westerly is the H.  Italie, and, about 100 feet up the bank behind, the principal house of thehotel. A little farther east, on the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue. Near the Belle-Vue, and on the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, abenevolent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, whoare received for 20s. A week, which includes everything “exceptlaundress and fire in bedroom. ” For conditions of admission apply toRansom, Bouverie, and Co. , bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh. Below, on the terrace along the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoiningis the Paix, a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. Des Anglais, the H. Et P.  Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site, Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet desRosiers, about 200 yards from the H. Des Anglais. 

Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under theshelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, justbehind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are thefirst-class houses of the *H. Des Iles Britanniques (expensive), *H. National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are theAmbassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs. , W 1-2 frs. ; thelast five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the P. Des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, onthe right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. De l’Europe, 9-14 frs. , W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the H. And P. DesDeux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include service, coffee in themorning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never wine, excepting the G. H. De Menton, whose price includes wine but not coffee. 

Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only rendersthe more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature ofthe neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleyswatered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. Thethousand. 

[Headnote: BANKERS. CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES. ]

 _Bankers. _--Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. In the Av. Victor Emmanuel are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice. In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro Bank and the English Consulate. _House Agents. _--G. Amaranté and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av.  V. Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. Michel. English doctors, chemists, and grocers. 

 _Protestant Churches. _--Christ Church, adjoining the H. De la Paix; St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H.  Italie; Vaudois, R. Du Castellar; German Church, R.  Partouneaux. 

 _Cabs. _--One-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 25 c. ; the hour, 2¾ frs. Two-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 75 c. ; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c. A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs. ; a two-horse cab, 25 frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs. ; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs. The hour. 

Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St. Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into twosmaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. High, on which the old town is built. The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and evenslippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. Thepublic promenade (about 40 ft. Wide) bends round the west bay from thetown to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip ofground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediatelybehind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs, intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. Thevalleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep, badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys. 

The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extendingfrom Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are tworoads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses thebridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famousbone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks inthe north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the foodof the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they hademployed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond theviaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the lineclose to the beach. 

[Headnote: CAPE ST. MARTIN. GORBIO. ST. AGNÈS. ]

+Cape St. Martin+, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. Thetram stops at the N. E. Corner of the cape. On the road northward fromthe cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre, consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all thatremains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. Fromthis a straight road leads directly S. Through a grove of large olivetrees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it arethe ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St. Honorat (p.  158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins thecarriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. A stony path on the W. Side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks andcliffs (see map, p.  185). 

+Gorbio+, 2½ hrs. Or 5 m. N. Up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft. Above the sea. Take the road E. From the Pont de l’Union, passing by theentrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves oflemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. From the village the roadbecomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop. 500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by thestream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow, steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and thelittle church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo. ” At the upper endof the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from thetree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft. , and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. Therough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends, in less than 2 hrs. , to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfoldslovely views. +St. Agnès+, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. Above the sea, or 330 ft. Below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castlebuilt in the 10th cent. By Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow pathleads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensiveprospect. 

From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. Side of thevillage, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the sideof the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network ofexecrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not ofmuch consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If thetraveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bedof the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursionshould be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio. 

[Headnote: ANNONCIADE. CASTELLAR. ]

Convent and Chapel of the +Annonciade+, 722 ft. Above the sea, on theridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bankof the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the HôtelBeau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side ofthe river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of thiseasy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of theconvent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings. 

+Castellar+, 1280 ft. Above the sea, 4 m. North, pop. 770. The roadcommences from the narrow street, R. De la Caserne, a few yards W. Fromthe Place du Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broadhighway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered withlemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the streamMenton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way. Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees, is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streetslined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. End with theparish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruinsof a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. Fromthe terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charmingview. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January. From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. Are required for the ascent of the Berceau, 3640 ft. Above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guideadvisable. 

[Headnote: BENNET’S GARDEN. ]

+Pont St. Louis, Bennet’s Garden+, Hamlets of +Grimaldi+ and+Ciotti+. --At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between Franceand Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. High, spanned by a bridgeof one arch 72 ft. Wide. From this, on the first projecting point, arean Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the BennetGarden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point, the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upperentrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. Thegarden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and ischiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in fullbloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming. 

The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hillleads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemontrees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and havingpassed up by the E. Or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends thehill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft. ), consistingof some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N. E. From Ciotti is Mt. Belinda, 1837 ft. 

[Headnote: LA MORTOLA. HANBURY GROUNDS. ]

+La Mortola+, about 2 m. E. From Garavan. The Menton and Ventimigliaomnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. Above the sea) ofthe +Hanbury Grounds+, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beachby terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in themore sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level withthe house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. Below the entrance, is thePergola, a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massivepillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants. Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellentview of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on thehighest part of the road, a little to the W. Of Mortola. For time andconditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the PalmaroBank, 17 R. St. Michel. The generous founder and father of the presentowner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one ofthe most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly anhour’s drive from Bordighera. 

[Headnote: LES MOULINS. MONTI. ]

The most important drive towards the interior is to +Sospel+, 14 m. N. , on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p.  182). Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railwaystation side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are largeplantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi areLes Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4 m. Farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably abovethe stream, are the church and straggling village of +Monti+. Thebridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar, well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite thepart of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen asmall stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crossesthe stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d’Ora. 

[Headnote: HERMIT’S GROTTO. ]

About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of analmost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of windowor cavity called the +Hermit’s Grotto+. Over the entrance is anillegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is anotherinscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:--

 CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO. 1528. (Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it. )

The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. By4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds. Long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening. Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retiredfrom grief. 

 [Map: Italian Riviera, &c]

At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility totake part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques, hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign. This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride, Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation, resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded byconcealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in thecapacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from herhorse, and was forced to stop at an inn. Robert de Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army, and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard. 

[Headnote: CASTELLON. ]

 The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near the top by a tunnel 260 ft. Long, and shortly after it reaches the walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. From Menton, pop. 320. 5¾ m. Farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182). 

[Headnote: CLIMATE. ]

 _Climate. _--Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder. 

 “A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land, must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the leading characteristics of the climate of this region--the Undercliff of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want bracing, renovating--for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases. This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of the Riviera. ” --Bennet’s _Winter Climates_. 

 “With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean temperature of November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°. When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day, though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above 60°. ” --_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown. 

 For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185. 

THE ITALIAN RIVIERA, or

+Menton to Genoa. +

By VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, and SAVONA. 

Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map. 

 miles from MENTON miles to GENOA

{ }{100½}+MENTON. + The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at thebridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. Deep. 

6½ m. E. From Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village ofMortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is

{6¾}{93¾}+VENTIMIGLIA+, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_near station, the Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi. All the trains halt here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France orItaly is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of theluggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with thetime of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Saled’Aspetto, ” cloak-rooms, “Camerini di Toeletta, ” and the refreshmentrooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train. The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominentposition; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office, theatre, and the best café. The walk up this same Via to the town-gateshows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuationbeyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station, on the right bank of the Nervia, on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery, which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province. Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183. 

[Headnote: BORDIGHERA. ]

{10}{90½}+BORDIGHERA+, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, iscompactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the capeS.  Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below, on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most ofthe invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen. _Hotels:_ the best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in agarden, near the station. Similarly situated is the ¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20 frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station are ²H. And P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs. ; the ²H. And P.  Sapia, 8 to 9 frs. , and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward are the hotels ²Victoria and ²Windsor. Admirably situated on an eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the ¹*H. And P. Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs. At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high town. 

 The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon, after the olive, is the most profitable tree. 

 To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. There and back, by the Strada Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a delightful view of part of the coast. 

[Headnote: ISOLA BUONA. ]

 2½ m. West from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the Nervia, 16 m. Long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1½ to 2½ m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m. From Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. Up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m. From Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with the Cantarena, pop. About 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent. , on principal entrance and on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce, commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. Farther up the valley is Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by the Genoese in 1672. 2¼ m. From Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. From Bordighera, is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory at Paris for four generations. 

[Headnote: PIGNA. ]

 A little more than 11 m. From Bordighera is +Pigna+, on the +Nervia+, at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. Above the sea, a village where the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous spring, temp. 79° Fahr. , utilised by a bathing establishment. Near Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N. , to Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia. 

 The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N. E. , by Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. Side of Cape S.  Ampeglio is the hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway, is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N. , is La Colla, 1000 ft. Above the sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings, mostly by great Italian masters, such as Frà Bartolomeo,  I. Bassano, F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C.  Dolci, Domenichino, Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti. In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected by the Abbé Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix, bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs. 

[Headnote: LA COLLA. ]

 La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary to the orders of Pope Sixtus V. , broke the silence by calling aloud to “wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St. Peter’s. 2 m. E. From La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. From Ospedaletti. 

 The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the configuration of the coast into a west wind. 

 Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies, as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of Tabernacles. 

[Headnote: OSPEDALETTI. ]

 miles from MENTON miles to GENOA

{13½}{87}+OSPEDALETTI+, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontagetowards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In thevillage is the ²H. And P.  Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. The month. Upon aneminence with garden is the ¹H. De la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining isa handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. Thegambling is private, and on a small scale. 

[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS. ]

{16½}{84}+SAN REMO+, 16¼ m. E. From Menton by the coach-road, pop. In winter18, 000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, themaidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborioustrades. 

_Hotels. _--Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ²second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good oftheir class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by theprincipal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. De laPaix, close to the station and fronting the public garden. Then follow the ²H. And P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs. ; the ¹*H. San Remo; the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne, frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire’s is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post Office. 

 On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes doctors’ fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & Co. , bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London. 

 At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front to the sea and the other to the road--the ¹H. Méditerranée and the ¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H.  Bains. 

 At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. To W. We have the ²P. Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German); ¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate); ¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the pension is from 9 to 18 frs. , in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs. 

 Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p.  165). 

 _Cab Fares. _--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. During the day, and 1½ fr. Night. Per hour, 2 frs. ; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ fr. During the day, and 2½ frs. At night. The hour, 3 frs. ; at night, 4 frs. 

[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES. ]

Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot ofthese hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the ViaVittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The meantemperature is 49°. 1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’sestimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison ofthe thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennetfor the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from theprotecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelterfrom the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vastolive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them intohealthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, andremoving sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protectedspots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerablechoice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varyingdistances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; whilethe numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions. ” --Williams’ _WinterStations_. 

San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as atMenton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terracesbuilt up with low stone walls without plaster. 

[Headnote: POGGIO. ]

The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape SanMartino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From theHôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part wherethe road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take thelatter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana. ” This road ascends througholive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road tothe Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen onthe opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the manywretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascendedall the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by theCeriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H.  Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. From SanRemo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with theprofusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of theexcursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs. ; 2 horses, 20frs. , with ½ hr. Rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. Thechapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape SanMartino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behindthem are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To thewest are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to thechapel and back, 7 frs. ; 2 horses, 10 frs. , with ½ hr. Rest (see maps, pp.  163 and 199). 

A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. Above the sea, and 2 m. From San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs. ; 2horses, 12 frs. , with ½ hr. Repose. See page 199. 

[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO. ]

+St. Romolo to Monte Bignone. +

One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. Abovethe sea, and 4 m. Northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or thePlace St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists ofsome villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which wasinhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and fromit the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. Above thesea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, andmake for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascendsto the summit, 4235 ft. Above the sea, 5 hrs. From San Remo, or abouthalf that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who arestrong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quitepracticable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhattrying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route isexceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almostevery turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, withamongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others itruns along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious andrare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, afteran ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, thebroad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue theascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable liesstretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of morethan a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder. To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the fardistance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo;on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half ofthe San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountainsof the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively thevarious capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes and even theEsterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on thefarther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, andPompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are themountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with theApennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deepvalley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier thanthe one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-cappedAlps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and inthe other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on anarrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town ofPerinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of asingularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of thehouses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leadingdown to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small butclean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then bemade by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautifuland varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p.  201, andmap, p.  165. )

[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE. ]

“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of thesplendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must beseen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest inEurope. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken withordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fairhealth and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rareand beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at alower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blueHepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L. , a pink variety of which is sometimes metwith, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. With itstrefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primulaacaulis All. ; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. Acaulis L. ;Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd. ;Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L. ; and lastly, in shadydells, Daphne laureola L.  With two or three exceptions, these flowerswere found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for someweeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed manyplants of Helleborus fœtidus L. , as also for the first time in flowerthe large and handsome pink Cistus, C. Albidus L. ; this is the speciesso commonly found above the region of the olive trees. ” --_San Remo andthe Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall. 

+San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs. ; 2 horses, 12frs. , with ½ hr. Rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or fromSan Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey fromTaggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia, formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of Badalucco. 

[Headnote: TAGGIA. ]

 miles from MENTON miles to GENOA

{21½}{79}+TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. From the station. An omnibusawaits passengers (½ fr. ) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, atthe termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road toCastellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, andabout ½ hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of thegaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirtytown, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fairchurches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the principal street in the town--is thehabitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on enteringthe town, after having passed through the archway, take the street tothe left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On thebeach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with theruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. Farther east by rail is SanStefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like thatof San Remo. 

[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA. ]

{31}{69½}+PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce. 

Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a smallbay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town, containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a doublerow of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interiorrepresents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on thiscoast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highlyfinished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is dividedinto arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers withattached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes arecovered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along theedges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearlyhidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windowsand doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant, beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplaceof Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel wereach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro iscovered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminenceoverlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens fullof orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the wayto

[Headnote: ALASSIO. ALBENGA. ]

+Alassio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44½ m. East from Menton, and56 m. West from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by ahigh wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. EtP.  Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. End, the*G.  H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. End, the H. Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel. 

Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from someof the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain ofthe Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up thehills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, orup the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many largecarouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio andthe next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with acastle on the summit of the hill. 

+Albenga+ is 4 m. N. From Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a littledistance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria. Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, thebirthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in abroad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduoustrees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon treestrained as espaliers. A good carriage-road extends up the valley of theNerva and across the Col di S.  Bernardo, then by the town of Garessioand the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin. 

After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beachat the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemontrees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape. 

[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI. ]

{59½}{41}+FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John theBaptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marblesof various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is thechurch S.  Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. Thepulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a greatdeal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in thevalleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15thcent. ), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N. From Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at thecommencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partiallysurrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is piercedfrom E. To W. By narrow parallel streets, the best being the ViaEmanuele II. , which commences at the beach on E. Side by theclock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. Side by thenew church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritimepines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with wallsgarnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent. , is near thestation. Fishing is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. By thecoast, leads to Spotorno. 

[Headnote: SAVONA. ]

{74}{26½}+SAVONA+, pop. 17, 000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza diTeatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse. In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited hisspoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is nowmodern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broadstreets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built inenormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, theRupe di S.  Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupiedby the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends aresmall harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is, in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in differentshades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes ofgilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at thewestern end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. Side nearestthe altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in theSistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV. , the uncleof Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the firstchapel, left on entering, a “Nativity” by A.  Semini. The figure of theVirgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of theothers are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the churchis an “Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of atriptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over thealtar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII. , SixtusIV. , and Julius II. , were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona. 4 m. From Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora diMisericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent. , is covered withprecious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, theintimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m. Northwards (see p.  183). 

[Headnote: ALBISSÓLA. ]

{77}{23½}+ALBISSÓLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile fromthe Port or Marina. 4½ m. Farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop. 10, 000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A littleshipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orangegroves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the_Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means oftransforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealousmissionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N. E. From San Remo, and Arenzano, 6¼ m. N. E. From Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso(1319 ft. ) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and therejust enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildnessof the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is thevillage of Inoria. 

 [Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante]

[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS. ]

 miles from MENTON miles to GENOA

{85}{15½}+COGOLETO+, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and onreaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left. In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus, with the following inscription:--

 _Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;_ _Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!_ _Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere. _

It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and theother the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. Thatin which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting theadjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, whereit is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of acontinent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on thissea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vastcontinent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances, they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustriousnobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars ofLombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries ofCogoleto. Map, p.  220. 

[Headnote: ARENZANO. ]

{87¼}{13¼}+ARENZANO+, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs. , near station. One ofthe cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesquecountry and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road betweenArenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso. 

{91¾}{8¾}+VOLTRI+, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making andshipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p.  220. 

[Headnote: PEGLI. ]

{95}{5½}+PEGLI+, pop. 1000. _A winter station. _ The largest hotel is the*H. Pegli et de la Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the otherto the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15frs. On the beach the H.  Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet littlevillage, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constantcommunication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account ofthe grounds around the +Villa Pallavicini+, ornamented with statues ofRoman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. Butthe remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with largestalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergreenshrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. Atone part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many milesdistant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of ahill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and ofsoil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble downthe mountain in cascades into the lake, which had to be lined withporcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and coveredwith consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowedin a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In otherparts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water, and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant, 1 fr. ; for party, 2 frs. 

[Headnote: SESTRI-PONENTE. CORNIGLIANO. ]

1¾ m. E. From Pegli and 3¾ W. From Genoa is +Sestri-Ponente+, pop. 10, 800. _Hotel:_ *G.  H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs. , with commodious bathingestablishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of smallpebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroomevery morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by thegate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and coveredwith frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues ofthe patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station thanthe next town, +Cornigliano+, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs. , with shelteredgarden, 2½ m. W. From Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4°to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of bothhotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populoussuburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railwaystation is at the W. End of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminusof the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams. 

[Headnote: GENOA. ]

{100½}{ }+GENOA+, pop. 145, 000. The hotels most conveniently situated forvisitors are the G. H. De Gènes, 9 to 15 frs. , in the Piazza de Ferrari, opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G.  H. Isotta, 10 to 15frs. , No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near thepost; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs. , near the station; the Victoria, in thePiazza Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The aboveare in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the portin the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those whohave to embark, are--taking them in the order from W. To E. --the Croixde Malte, the H. De la Ville, the H.  Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the*France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last twohotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are thebest money-changers. 

For +Genoa to Turin+, see p. 279. 

Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards fromthe Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad streetVia Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches. Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici bythe side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Maddalena, which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of thatPiazza is a good shop for coral ornaments. 

[Headnote: CAFÉS. CABS. STEAMERS. ]

_Cafés. _-- *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delleNazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. +The principal sights+ arethe church of the Annunziata, p.  212; the Cemetery approached by theStaglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between therailway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria inCarignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza deFerrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. Above the sea(p.  218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing theMuseum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via diCirconvallazione. 

Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari, Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily. Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. Have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania, Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the Englishsteamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean, apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S.  Lorenzo. 

1-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr. ; the hour, 1½ fr. ; every successive ½hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs--the course, 1½ fr. ; the hour, 2 frs. ; everysuccessive ½ hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. Each. Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N. W. (p.  279). 

Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the PalazzoDucale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse. 

Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving ground, rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500 to 600feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets from 6to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut inthem. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via diCirconvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos”skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. End from the PiazzaManin, 330 ft. Above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form tothe railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from theupper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone diFerrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature ofGenoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style--gates 40 feethigh, with marble columns--courts paved with various colouredmarbles--broad staircases, all of marble--rooms 30 feet high with archedceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, crystallustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels dividedby sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings in oil. The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in acontinuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at thewest end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa. 

[Headnote: PALACES. PALAZZO DORIA. ]

The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works ofart are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but loftystaircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo DurazzoPallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 ViaGaribaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palacesare remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. Is sufficient to leave with the keeper ofthe gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms provided with alist of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on a card, whichmakes the visitor quite independent of the servants and guides. 

As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and thecathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after havingvisited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of theVia S.  Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by theramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria diCarignano. 

The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria, reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished byPerino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to thepaintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeatingthe Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at theentrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing AndreaDoria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P.  Carlone. In the garden, onthe other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules, erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog Rolando, givenhim by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the title of “IlPrincipe. ” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo, andover the altar the sword presented to him by Paul III. 

 [Map: Genoa]

[Headnote: VIA MILANO. ]

Adjoining the Doria palace is the +Via Milano+, a terraced promenadelining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but morecostly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the RoyalPalace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of theDurazzo family, was erected after the plans of P.  F. Cantone and J.  A. Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been so greatlyadmired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The accommodation isextensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the principal receptionhall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are indifferent. 

The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of B.  Bianco, and improved by P.  A. Corradi, contains a large collection ofpaintings--among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a St. Jerome, byGuido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by Tizziano; a St. George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by Correggio. 

[Headnote: P. DURAZZO PALLAVICINI. ]

No. 1 Via Balbi is the +P. Durazzo Pallavicini+, one of the mostimportant to visit. The architect was B.  Bianco, but the vestibule andstaircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by A.  Tagliafico. Thepaintings are almost entirely by Italian masters, such as Molinaretti, Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, Lanfranco, Procaccini, Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, Vercelli, Reni, Merone, Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first room there is a valuabletriptych by A.  Durer, and the gem of the collection, James I. Of Englandand Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception room are other three choiceworks by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola, Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of theartists and subject. 

From the Via Balbi we pass into the +Piazza dell’ Annunziata+, with, onthe left hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa, built in 1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in itspresent state by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on sixstately marble columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty, and resplendent with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over theentrance is Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes onthe cupola are by A.  Ansaldi, those on the choir by J.  Benzo, and theremainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful thingsare the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, andthe elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start forCornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes. 

We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to +SanSiro+, which was the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altaris by Puget. The fresco on the roof by G.  B. Carlone. The marble columnsare all of one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6Piazza Pellicceria, is the +Palazzo Spinola+, with many beautifulpaintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent byRibera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino, a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin by L.  Giordano, the LastSupper by G.  C. Procaccini, S.  Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family byAlbani, the Four Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gemof the collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are byTavarone, G.  Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO ROSSO. ]

In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the +Palazzo Rosso+ (GalleriaBrignoli), with a small but valuable collection of pictures by Italianmasters, distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, andCarloni. It contains also a good library. 

No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, a splendidbuilding, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes representingincidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and galleries are opento the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala Rossa, and theSala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a portrait ofColumbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing him in thepresence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among otherpaintings, is a triptych ascribed to A.  Durer, and in the third (theSala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect was RoccoLugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by G.  T. Carlone, and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, and M.  Canzio. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO SERRA. ]

At No. 12 Via Nuova is the +P. Serra+, built, like most of the otherpalaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architectGaleazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartmentsare excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by thebrothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber, representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour ofAnchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architectTagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste. But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon, shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt, alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. Thearchitraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on theroof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks. The roof of the next room was painted by A.  Semini. 

The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though smallerdisplay of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of No. 5 in thissame street, the P.  Spinola. 

At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico andsplendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by P. Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and Tintoretto. Wenow enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, the principaltheatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, where youngmen assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and sculpture. Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram stops at thecemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of Carignano. 

The second street left from the P. De Ferrari leads to +S. Matteo+, built in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G.  A. Montorsoli at the request ofAndrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions onthe church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of thechurch belonged to the Doria family. 

[Headnote: S. AMBROGIO. ]

In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautifulmarbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of theAnnunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of theAssumption by G.  Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing onepossessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the samemaster, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni andGaleotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+, now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs isornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Sienamarble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructedby Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers usedby Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ]

On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the11th cent. , but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are ofblack and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of threelarge portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch ofthe centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. Inthe interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separatedfrom the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choirhas frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed inthe 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _thechapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It wasbuilt in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G.  Porta and M.  Civitali, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his officialrobes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by fourporphyry columns is the shrine by D.  Terrano (1437), said to contain theashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of theright or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by VanDyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name ofthe Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Cæsarea, in Palestine, and tradition asserted that it had been presented by the Queen of Shebato Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lambwith his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law waspassed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance tothe vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that thematerial was only glass. 

Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S.  Lorenzo is a cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens tothe Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views ofGenoa. From the P. De Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, passingthrough the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c. 

[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY. ]

+S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of GaleazzoAlessi, is 165 ft. Square, and 174 ft. Above the sea. The statues abovethe entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the fourcolossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are byPuget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings(covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis andCharles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Crossby Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from thehighest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. Above the sea, ascended by anexcellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. Each. The omnibus in the squaregoes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hillat the N. W. Extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fineview. 

About 2 m. From Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +CampoSanto+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ hour fromthe Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to theGenoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities ofthe mountain sides for nearly 15 miles. 

[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI. ]

The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. Wide and 820ft. Long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of21 ft. , and 18½ ft. High. Each arch can contain seven tiers of threecoffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just roomenough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. Thepoorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surroundedby the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where allthat money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service tothe feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of thosethey have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovelystatues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medleycontents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other twogalleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large pieceof ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstonefrom the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of agreat dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of blackmarble 32½ ft. High. In eight niches round the interior are colossalstatues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade rests on sixwhite marble columns 21 ft. High. The whole vast structure of galleries, stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead. At the N. W. End of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse, +Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. Above the sea, on the Via diCirconvallazione, founded in the 17th cent. , and containingaccommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. End of the city is a largeestablishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio. 

+The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa. +

 Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps, pages 199 and 211. 

 miles from GENOA miles to PISA

{ }{102½}+GENOA. +--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with theexception of Bordighera and S.  Remo, those situated between Nervi andRapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N. Winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, andfig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of thesuperior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a sitefor a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p.  211. 

[Headnote: NERVI. ]

{7½}{95}+NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. Et P. Anglais, E. From the station, with largegarden, 8 to 15 frs. H. Et P.  Victoria, on the W. Side of station, 9 to12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. Above the H. EtP.  Anglais, the *H. Et P.  Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs. , including wine;admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminusof the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8 frs. Opposite, the H. Et P.  Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service. 

Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuousnarrow street 2 m. Long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S. Side is the sea, on the N. High hills covered with olive trees andstudded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S. E. From Nervi is +SantaMargherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. Et P.  Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs. A charmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In theneighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautifulgardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to thevillage and promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. Is thevilla Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of thepromontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishingvillage of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view. 

{18½}{84}+RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. Et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of asmall bay. A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among themany pretty walks is the one to S.  Margherita, 2 m. N. , by the low roadskirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a triflelonger. 

[Headnote: CHIÁVARI. ]

{24¼}{78¼}+CHIÁVARI+, pop. 12, 000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergodella Fenicé; Locanda Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of thebest towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets, substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuablepictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, thechurch of the Virgin of Orta, whose “sacred” picture hangs over the highaltar. Chiávari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twistedstraw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of theorgan-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4½ m. From Chiávari, across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ GrandHotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at thispleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bayterminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grandview. Shortly after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulfof Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and theisland of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chiefof which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45frs. 

[Headnote: SPEZIA. ]

{56½}{46}+SPEZIA+, pop. 11, 500, 1 m. From station. Spezia, although near goodscenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitablewinter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the spaciouscorso along the beach, the best being the “Croce di Malta, ” a large andhandsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow the H. National; theItalia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-class, but theBrettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1½ fr. Per hour;with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italiannavy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world. Napoleon I. Intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour ofFrance. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S.  Vito, coveran area of 100 acres. On the W. Side of the bay is the picturesque PortoVenere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8 m. Distant by land, 10 frs. Percarriage 1½ hr. , or boat 2½ hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black, with gold-coloured veins. 

“To the N. W. And W. Of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which MonteBergamo, 2109 ft. , is the most distant. It may be ascended from theGenoa road, which runs under its N. E. Flank. Nearer to Spezia is MonteParodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grandpanoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village ofBiassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. Whilethe N. W. Coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northernand eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, whichrenders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of theMigliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Speziavalley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at thattime of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favouriteexcursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6 m. S. E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a mostsheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the sun hasset at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian villa, whichShelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, near thevillage. ” --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the traincrosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, andarrives at

[Headnote: SARZANA. ]

{67¾}{34¾}+SARZANA+, pop. 11, 200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town, with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to theGrand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoesein exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was thebirthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447elected pope under the title of Nicholas V. , and who constituted hisnative place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning andfounder of the Vatican library. 

The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed toCorsica. The cathedral (14th cent. ) is a plain cruciform edifice, partlyof marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first streetright, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen minutes’farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, a beautifulthough low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking therailway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen fromthe station. 

[Headnote: AVENZA. --CARRARA. ]

{74}{31}+AVENZA. + Station for Carrara, 3¼ miles N. E. By branch line. Gigs alsofor Carrara await passengers at the station. Fare, 5 fr. 

 +Carrara+ (pop. 14, 000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the Accademia. Near the Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing the bridge by Walton’s marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels. The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara. The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble. To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris. The nearest and the easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and the principal establishments the studios of the artists, where statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and exposed for sale. Admission readily granted. 

 The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti. 

 miles from GENOA miles to PISA

{78¼}{26¾}+MASSA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot ofMt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts. Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on theMediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in thegardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both onthe plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The townis quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but theprincipal occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square wasonce the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon’s sister. Valuablemarble quarries. Pop. 5000. 

{84¼}{20¾}+PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble worksnear the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. Onthe first large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that init Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovicontratti per la facciata di S.  Lorenzo in Firenze. ” S.  Martino (13thcent. ) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all thechurches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile(1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the churchare handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domesand semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Municipale, with, in front, a statue to Leopold II. , 1848. Then follows St. Agostino(14th cent. ), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhoodare quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marblequarries. 

[Headnote: VIAREGGIO. ]

{90¾}{14¼}+VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20, 000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine;Commercio. A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisaand Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found caston this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is LakeMassaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about6 m. W. From Lucca in a beautiful country. 

[Headnote: PISA. ]

{105}{ }+PISA+, pop. 26, 300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close tostation, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; left hand, Commerce. Behind the H.  Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the leftside of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-standat the station. _Fares. _--From the station to the cathedral, with fromone to two passengers, 1 fr. ; from three to four, 1 fr. 15 sous. Thehour, 2 fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele tothe Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifthstreet right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at thecommencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza delDuomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and theBaptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoesconsiderably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school ofthe 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each. 

[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL. ]

The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, wascompleted in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind archesdecorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarlyconstructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronzedoors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entranceby Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures indelicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and variousother objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits, and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft. , and of thetransepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. High. A double row ofcolumns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts andchoir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of finemarble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them aresemicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and blackmarble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars areby Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite eachother being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of thetransepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents thefall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in theascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is acolossal Mosaic by G.  Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintingsare four of saints by A. Del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs. Here alsoare paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi, and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pierof the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. Del Sarto, and on thecorresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. Inthe right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tombof S.  Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vagaand Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the HolySacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, buthave some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, whilea student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lampsuspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum aresynchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small. 

 [Map: Pisa]

[Headnote: LEANING TOWER. ]

The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a cylindrical edifice built ofsquare blocks of compact marble, and consisting of a well-designed solidbasement, 159 ft. In circumference, with walls 13 ft. Thick, above whichrise six open arcaded galleries, supported by 200 granite and marblecolumns. Over the sixth arcade rises a round tower 27 ft. High. Theentire height is 183 ft. , the mean diameter of the main portion 52 ft. , and the deflection from the perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive ofthe cornice, which projects 32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174, and finished 1350. The ascent is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. Wide, formed in the wall; but not fewer than three are allowed to visit thetop at the same time. Fee for the party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in oneof the small houses (No. 14) nearly opposite. 

[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--CEMETERY. ]

The Baptistery is a circular building, 361½ feet in circumference, surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and constructed after the designs ofDiotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 and finished towards the end of the14th cent. Above the third storey rises the dome, intersected by longlines of very prominent fretwork, meeting in a cornice near the top, andterminating in a small dome crowned with a statue of St. John theBaptist, the titular saint of all such edifices. In the interior eightlarge Sardinian granite columns and four marble piers support twelvearches, over which rises the tier of piers and arches which support thecupola, within conical, but externally hemispherical. In the centrestands an octagon marble font for the baptism of adults, with fourcircular compartments at opposite sides for the baptism of infants. Thebeautiful pulpit by Niccolo da Pisa (1260) is ornamented withbas-reliefs, and supported on seven columns. Behind the Baptistery isthe _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 by the Archbishop Ubaldo. It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, and surrounded by a broadgallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and 62 mullioned arches withquatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The inner side of the wall iscovered with paintings in fresco, begun about the year 1300, andcontinued till 1670. Immediately to the left on entering is the monumentof the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right commencefrescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the patronsaint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the second doorillustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the Thebanwilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. Above 38, the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of Death, --fillingthose living in pleasure with horror, but those in sorrow with joy. Nowfollow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the three chapels, andfrescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension. Onthe north wall the most interesting frescoes are by Puccio Orvieto, 14thcent. , illustrative of events in the Old Testament. On the west wall ishung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be drawn across the mouthof the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria broke through in 1290, burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the chain to Genoa. A few yearsago, according to the inscription, the Genoese returned it to Pisa. Onthe wall, under the chain, is the monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and, a little to the right, a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The emptyspace within the cloisters was once the common burying-ground of thecity. It is filled, to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from theHoly Land by the galleys of Pisa. [Headnote: S.  MARIA DELLA SPINA. ]Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, onthe bank of the Arno (a low square church)--an excellent specimen of theMoorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. The churches ofSt. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. Andrea, and St. Francisco, contain a few curious and some good paintings, with otherantiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed to contain the bonesof St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, Lanfreducci, Seta, andCasa Mecherini, are worthy of notice. 

Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by theEmperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, andwell-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian, considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see nextpage). 

 [Map: Leghorn]

[Headnote: LEGHORN. STEAMERS FOR CORSICA. ]

Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance11¼ miles. +Leghorn+ (pop. 90, 000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza delCantiere, the Nord, fronting the harbour; and close by, in the ViaVittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; New York; France; and at No. 59 of thesame street, Il Giappone. Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi. Presbyterian church, No. 3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boatfrom the hotel to the steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome andwell-paved streets; among the best of them is the Via Vittorio Emanuele, which, commencing at the head of the harbour from the Piazza deiCantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza d’Armi, with thecathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its continuation, onthe other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends to a largebuilding on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is the grandreservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by anaqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing“Humphrey Clinker, ” and was buried in the English cemetery. Steam-boatsevery week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in Sardinia, and forMarseilles and Genoa. 

+Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja. +

 Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199. 

 miles from PISA miles to FLORENCE

{ }{62}+PISA. + The direct line to Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance, 49 miles. Time, 2 hours and 10 minutes. The first station by the Luccaroute is _San Giuliano_, with its thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84°Fahr. , rising from a calcareous rock at the foot of the wooded MontiPisani. The waters “are used internally in chronic hepatic complaints, in gravel, and some renal affections; in dysentery, and dyspepsiaattended with pain and vomiting. ” --Madden’s _Health Resorts_. AfterGiuliano, we reach the Rigoli station, whence the line extends along theleft side of the Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensiveembankments. 

{15}{47}+LUCCA+ (pop. 22, 000). Each portmanteau taken from the station to thecab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs await passengers, 1 fr. ; portmanteau, 4 sous. 

_Sights. _--A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in circumference, and a visitto the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To the south of Lucca, near thestation, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 arches. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO DUCALE--PICTURE-GALLERY. ]

_Hotels:_ Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a firstclass-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona, near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligenceto the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H.  Corona. Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in thePiazza dell’Erba, off the P.  Napoleone. Lucca is one of the most ancientcities in Italy. Originally it belonged to the Etrurians, but was takenfrom them by the Ligurians, and colonised by the Romans about 170 yearsbefore the birth of our Lord. The most remarkable event thatdistinguished it in ancient times was the interview which took placehere between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and which attracted to the townhalf the senate and nobility of Rome. After the fall of the Romanempire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, from one of whoserace, Azon II. , of the house of Este, the royal families of Brunswickand England are descended. The town is in the form of the letter O, surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable drive. At therailway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the principalsights. One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale, now the Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in1578, enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, thepost-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The+Picture-Gallery+, open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2, although small, contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In thefirst room is a Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, theCreator with Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo, in 1515 and 1509. Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In theSala da Ballo, painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, area Madonna by Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon’s sisterElisa; and two ancient pictures on wood--a Nativity, and a Christ withSaints. The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which wereoccupied by Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument byBartolini (1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the PiazzaNapoleone, by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come toanother open space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and betweenthe two churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera dellachiesa;” where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_, an elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B.  Baroni in 1350, and thegold lamp, weighing 24 lbs. , which formerly hung in front of theTempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. Isexpected. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ] The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martinowas commenced by Anselmo Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as PopeAlexander II. , blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England. The façade, with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in1204, the choir in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures ofthe portico are subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door onthe left is a Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. Loftinessand simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the interior of thischurch, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, with the exceptionof San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The windows are small andfilled with modern glass, excepting the three at the eastern end, whichare by P.  Ugolino. All the pictures are covered, excepting on Sundaysand feast-days, but the custodian can always be found in the sacristy, who shows the church for a franc. Commencing at the first altar, righthand from main entrance, Nativity, by Passignano; second, Adoration ofthe Magi, P.  Zucchero; third, Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth, Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, Resurrection. In south transept, westside, is the monument to Pietro da Noceto, one of the many admirableworks by Matteo Civitali, to whose genius the church owes its bestsculpture, which he contributed during a period of nearly thirty yearsfrom 1472. The angels on the altar in the Chapel del Sagramento, opposite the monument, as well as the whole of the chaste white marblealtar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining the sacramental chapel, are by him. On the left side of the high altar is the altar to “ChristoLiberatori, ” by G.  Bologna, and adjoining, La Cappella del Santuario, where again we find the beautiful handiwork of Civitali displayed on thealtar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna+ which forms thereredos of the altar is by Fra Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonnaby Ghirlandaio (1400), in the sacristy, are the two gems in the church. Just outside the Cappella del Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilariadel Carretto_ by Jacopo della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightlymutilated, yet a beautiful imitation of the repose of nature transferredto statuary. [Headnote: THE TEMPIETTO. S.  GIOVANNI. S.  FREDIANO. ] In thenorth aisle is the +Tempietto+, a small octagonal chapel standing apart, in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or 9th cent. , said tohave been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of an angel. Thefresco on the left side of the main entrance into the Duomo representshim cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times a year. Theembroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure ofS.  Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit opposite, are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, founded in the12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly relieved by thecoloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone by the westerncorner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the Piazza and Churchof San Michele, founded in the 8th cent. , with a lofty façade composedof tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the same directiontowards the ramparts, we reach +S. Frediano+, of the 7th cent. , with alarge Mosaic (12th cent. ) over the main entrance. Just within it, oneach side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an ancientcircular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved in relief byMagister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is against the wall, and is by N.  Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The second chapel on theright contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness of Lucca, in asarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east side) is acoronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall of thesame chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the assumptionof the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel coveredwith ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents thetransporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it hadbeen found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptisedby St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, anentombment. Opposite is S.  Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying byprayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. Aboveis St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, Godsurrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. From Lucca is theVilla di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds. 

+The Baths of Lucca. +

 17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199. 

 The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through pleasing scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right side of the river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of the Maddalena, consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of Borgo being disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the bank to the centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built in 1322, is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood uninjured the great flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three hours a height till then unknown, and swept away with irresistible fury all the other bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and embankments. The two villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of the Baths of Lucca are _Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_ on the right bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On the hill behind Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By the side of the Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and about 100 feet above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way westward, overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse, and immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the exclusive use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses, is the Bagno Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the Bagno San Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and Pension, next the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the opposite side of the river, in Il Serraglio, are the New York, and the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the river by the right bank, along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is another village, which is also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa+, the most beautifully situated of the three. _Hotels:_ At the entrance of the village, the H. And P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on which the bathing establishment is situated, the H. And P. Du Pavilion and the Anglican chapel. Near them the H. And P. Du Parc. The pension price in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_ First hour, 2 fr. ; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to let. From 400 to 1000 fr. For six months. 

 The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance. The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse, 85° Fahr. , and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda and magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter being 15 grs. To the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of La Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but their principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal of the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with more reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the charming walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the greater part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is beautiful--steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks rise on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend their way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points of various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to October. 

[Headnote: PISTOJA. CATHEDRAL--BAPTISTERY--PAL. MUNICIPALE--S. ANDREA. ]

 miles from PISA miles to FLORENCE

{40½}{21½}+PISTOJA+ (pop. 13, 600). _Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, bothin the Piazza Cino. Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr. ;portmanteau, 20 c. Next the H.  Inghilterra is the church of S.  Giovanni, erected at the end of the 12th cent. , in alternate layers of black andwhite marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to beby Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the PiazzaDuomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of thelofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta, ” which rises above all theother buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, a plain edifice, builtin 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by A. DellaRobbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and GiovanniChristiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to thejurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing anassembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he isrepresented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. The altar ofthe chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid silver. It isgenerally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man will uncover itfor 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 years (1314-1466), and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s work of that time inItaly, and that 416 lbs. Of silver were employed in its execution. Belowthe chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the _Baptistery_, begun1339 (by C. Di Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternatelayers of black and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle. The font is quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the13th cent. Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit. Adjoining is the Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the TribunaleCivile), constructed in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults andsoffits of the massive arches are covered with the armorial bearings ofthe former mayors of the town; while, to the left of the entrance, arestill the stone-seats and tables where they sat in judgment. Opposite isthe Palazzo Municipale (14th cent. ), and a little way down the street, the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent. ), with a coloured terra-cotta frieze. Near the two hotels is the church of _S. Maria dell’ Umilta_, built in1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari. Near it is _S. Andrea_ (12th cent. ), with quaint reliefs over theentrance door, and in the interior a precious marble pulpit, sculpturedby Giovanni da Pisa, 1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminatesthis piece of elaborate sculpture, when it is seen to still greateradvantage. Between the two last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, withsuch a quantity of frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory, that even the visitor on entering feels himself among clouds also. Inthe Piazza Prato is S.  Francesco, with some good frescoes and altarpieces. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomasde Weston, Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derivedfrom the name of this town, as they have been manufactured here from avery early date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia, B. C. 62, and the precise spot where he is said to have fallen is markedby a tower. 

Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages atPistoja. 

11¼ m. From Florence and 50¼ m. From Pisa is Prato, pop. 13, 100. _Hotels:_ Giardinetto, Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, anddefended by a castle built by the Ghibelines. The interior and exteriorof the Cathedral are faced with white and green marble in bands. Thenave has columns of serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes byFilippo Lippi, and in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365). 

[Headnote: FLORENCE. HOTELS AND PENSIONS. ]

61½ m. From Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. By Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. FromTurin, 82 m. From Bologna, 134 m. From Piacenza, 196 m. From Rome, and60¼ m. From Leghorn. 

+FLORENCE+, on the Arno, pop. 169, 000. _Hotels and Apartments:_ On theright or north side of the Arno, the Grand Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de laVille; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington; Grand Hôtel Nueva York; GranBretagna; del Arno; and just behind the Paix, the Russie. All thesehotels have a south exposure, and are greatly run after in winter. Charge from 10 to 16 frs. Per day, according to the room. The followingcharge from 9 to 13 frs. , and are situated in the new streets a littleway back from the Arno, and near the Cascine or Park of Florence(north-west side of plan):--Hôtel and Pension Corona d’Italia, ViaMontebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel andPension Venise in No. 33 Via della Scala. In the Iles Britanniques arealso furnished apartments at from 250 frs. To 400 frs. Per month. Hôteland Pension Couronne d’Angleterre, Via Solferino; Hôtel and PensionAnglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the Universo in the Corso Vitt. Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, and charging rather less thanthe above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via Cerretani; Hôtel and PensionAngleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of same street, Hôtel Bonciani, with front also to the Piazza S.  Maria Novella. Near the bridge La SantaTrinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are the Europe and Nord. In the ViaPorta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in the Via della Spada the Ville deParis; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in the Piazza S.  Maria Novella(near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; Bonciani, with furnishedapartments; and by the side of the station, La Posta and Rebecchino. Inthe Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses for Sesto Fiorentino and alarge cab-stand. Conveniently situated for visiting the sights, and notexpensive (from 7 to 9 frs. Per day), are the H. D’Espagne above theRestaurant Etruria and the Etoile d’Italie in the V. Calzaioli. PensionSuisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (inwhich also single rooms are let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via delProconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di S.  Maria Novella; Hôtel and PensionRudolfo, Via della Scala. Furnished apartments all over the town. Justoutside the Porta Romana, in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartmentscost from 250 to 400 frs. The month. The most expensive as well as themost fashionable are those situated on the right bank of the Arno; butin the streets a little way back from the Arno apartments can be had forless. It is of very great importance in winter to have bedrooms with asouth exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold even on a sunnyday. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very moderate rates inrestaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both in the ViaCalzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti and Co. , 5Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well. 

_Protestant Churches. _--American Church, 17 Via dei Serragli; AmericanEpiscopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, 5 Via del Maglio;Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini. 

_Cab Tariff. _--The course, 1 fr. ; night (between 7 P. M. To 6 A. M. ), 1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c. ; every successivehalf-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c. ; portmanteau, 25 c. Omnibuses runbetween the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. Fare, 10 c. ;Sundays, 15 c. 

[Headnote: HINTS AND DIRECTIONS. ]

Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of theTopografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Bestplans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria, and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent littleguides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures andstatues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published inEnglish likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one forRome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works, _Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols. , Isbister andCo. , London, and volume 3 of _Hare’s Cities of Italy_. 

 [Map: Florence]

It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wanderinto every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figureby a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately, are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of theUffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is theTribuna (p.  238), containing the concentrated excellence of bothgalleries in painting and antique sculpture. Besides what are in theTribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures in the Pitti, of which the mostfamous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’ Educazione di Giove (see p.  244). Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo(see p.  265), but the best collection of his works is in the _NationalMuseum_ (see p.  261). His David is in the _Accademia delle Belle Arti_(see p.  272). In the National Museum is the best collection of sculptureby great _Italian Artists_, such as Michael Angelo, G.  Bologna, Luca andAndrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano, Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly inthe first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room ofthe second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo orCathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (butparticularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attachedto St. Lorenzo), S.  Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are openfrom early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till six. The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and theircloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of DelCarmine (page 252). Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in1240, in the Rucellai chapel of S.  Maria Novella (page 268). Bestfrescoes by D.  Ghirlandaio on the chancel or recess occupied by the highaltar in S.  Maria Novella (page 268). Best frescoes of A. Del Sarto inthe narthex of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in thefirst and second chapels of S.  Croce (page 260). Of the palaces the bestare the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and thePalazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view of Florence is from the top ofthe dome; the ascent is very easy. The pleasantest drive, with views, isto the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the Porta Romana and the BoulevardsMachiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo (page 249), studded withhandsome villas. 

[Headnote: PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. LOGGIA DELL’ ORCAGNA. NATIONALLIBRARY. ]

At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the _PonteVecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each side. Byreferring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the PittiPalace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of thisbridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S.  Maria, leading to the +Piazza della Signoria+. From the north-west corner ofthe Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the Via Calzaioli, leadsto the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern corner the street called theBorgo de’ Greci leads into the +Piazza Santa Croce+. It is of greatimportance to understand the relative position of these three squares. The chief feature of the Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_, a fine specimen of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274). On either side of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucisand Philemon, by Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Herculesand Cacus, also by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade calledthe +Loggia dell’ Orcagna+, from the name of the architect, or deiLanzi, from the name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building. It was usual in the early period of the Republic to provide a space nearthe government-house where the people could meet and take part in publicaffairs; and for this purpose this open gallery was built opposite thePalazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. Five steps, running along thefront, lead up to the platform, covered by a vaulted roof, supported onfour arches, resting on three columns terminating in beautiful capitalsof the Corinthian order. Two shaggy lions, in Cipollino marble, ornamentthe entrance. The lion on the left is by F.  Vacca, 17th cent. ; theother, on the right, as well as the six statues of Sabine priestesses, along the inner wall, beautiful in attitude and drapery, are antiques, and were brought from the Villa Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, undereach arch, stand three separate groups, by celebrated masters of the16th cent. To the right is the Rape of the Sabines, by G.  Bologna, in1583. Originally this group was intended to represent Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. To the left the statue in bronze of Perseus, with the headof the sorceress Medusa, by B.  Cellini. The posture is fine, and full ofpower and animation, but the head and body of the Medusa are representedstreaming with blood with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judithand Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape ofPolixena, a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is anantique group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body ofPatrocles--restored by S.  Ricci. Next it is the marble group, byG.  Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this Piazza isalso the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of Bandinelli), 1571. It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over by a statue ofNeptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. Adjoining is asuperb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse is admirable. To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione (considered to havebeen designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining the Loggia dei Lanziare the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi, ” the great storehouse of arttreasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along the basement floor, extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari (1560-74), ornamented with24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On the same side as the Loggiais the Post-Office (Reale Poste). On the opposite side, at the seconddoor from the end, is the entrance to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and sixdoors farther down, the entrance to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, withabout 250, 000 vols. And 14, 000 MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may behad for consultation in the reading-room by writing the name on a slipof paper. The National Library was formed in 1864 by the union of thePalatine Library collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Librarycollected by Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. End of thecolonnade leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio. 

 [Illustration: Plan of the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries]

[Headnote: UFFIZI GALLERY--VESTIBULES--CORRIDORS. ]

+Galleria degli Uffizi. +

Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Each. Sundays, free. W. C. ’s near theportrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southerngallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famouscollection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similarcollection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arnoby the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, bythe tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to bothcollections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from thesecond door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door atthe N. E. Corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening intothe Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi, and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of thewestern gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to gowrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds, fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and asmall room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenesin the life of our Lord, ) we come to a common stone staircase, which, toenter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. Downstairs, outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli gardens. 

Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those whowish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the galleriesmay, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first vestibule areRoman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and sacrifices, andbusts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I. , Francis I. , and of others ofthe Medici. Second vestibule, more Roman statuary, and an inimitableGreek figure of a wild boar; the whole expressing admirably the growlingire kindling in an irritated animal. Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold, spirited, and true to nature. The horse, said to have belonged to theNiobes group, does not bear close examination. 

We now enter the eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceilingpainted in arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuablespecimens of ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors andmembers of the imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hunga valuable and interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiffgilded Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna byAndrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St. Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in colour andgrouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, by Giotto, pupil ofCimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. Angelico; No. 24 aMadonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by P.  Uccello; and No. 61 aCrucifixion by Lippi. 

[Headnote: TUSCAN SCHOOL--TRIBUNA. ]

From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls wherethe pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as isshown on the plan, the +Scuola Toscana+, contained in three rooms, andconsisting of 165 paintings, by M.  Albertinelli, A. And C.  Allori, B. Angelico, M.  A. Anselmi. B.  Bandinelli, Fra. Bartolommeo, G.  Biliverti, S. Botticelli, A.  Bronzino. F. Cambi, J.  Casentino, Cigoli, P. DiCosimo, L. Di Credi, F.  Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P.  Francesca, M.  A. Franciabigio. A.  L. Gentil, D. And R.  Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, G.  S. Giovanni, B.  Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra F.  Lippi. O. Marinari, Masaccio, T.  Manzuoli, G. Da Milano, F.  Morandini. G. Pagani, M.  Pasti, S. Pieri, A.  Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G.  Ramacciotti, Razzi, IlRosso, G.  F. Rustici.  V. Salimbeni, C.  Salviati, A. Del Sarto, L.  Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R.  Vanni, O. Vannini, G.  Vasari, Dom. Veneziano, A.  Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, Volterrano. F.  Zucchero. The earliest painters are in the inner room. Among the most remarkableof them are, B.  Angelico, 1294. A. Botticelli, 1286, a large picture, and 1289 and 1299. Fra. F.  Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297. G. Da Milano, 1293, in ten compartments. A.  Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D. Veneziano, 1305. 

In the middle hall--Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265;Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F.  Lippi, 1257 and 1268;Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo daVinci, 1252, an unfinished picture. 

First hall--Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, one ofhis best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; Leonardo daVinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine. 

[Headnote: THE TRIBUNA. ]

Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the +Tribuna+, a plain 8-sided hall, 30 ft. In diameter, designed by B.  Buondelmonti, and painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved fiveof the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of thechoicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F.  Barocci, Fra. Bartolommeo, A. And L.  Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, A.  Durer, Guercino, L.  Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, B.  Luini, Mantegna, MichaelAngelo, L. D’Olanda, P.  Perugino, Raphael, G.  Reni, Giulio Romano, Rubens, A. Del Sarto, Schidone, Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck, P.  Veronese, and D.  Volterra. Facing the door is the +Venus de Medici+, 4 ft. 11 inches high, supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus, which, along with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from theVilla Hadrian, in Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group ofthe Wrestlers, exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn, attributed to Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art thatremains of the ancients. The head and arms were restored by MichaelAngelo. In the _Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalidcountenance, and the short neglected hair, express admirably thecharacter of a slave, still more plainly written on his coarse hardhands and wrinkled brow. Among the paintings, six are by Raphael--allgems. 1120 Portrait of a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 theFornarina, every hue as perfect as if transferred to the canvas by thesun--the expression is pert; 1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well), attributed also to Franciabigio, beautifully finished; 1127 St. John inthe Desert, colouring tawny, but admirable light and shade; 1129 theMadonna del Cardellino (nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works, painted when he was 22; 1131 Portrait of Julius II. , considered one ofthe finest portraits in the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the PittiGallery, and in the National Gallery of London, are likewise portraitsby Raphael of this impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family byMichael Angelo. This picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibitspowerful drawing with dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St. Francis and St. John, called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea delSarto--rich but subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 thefamous recumbent Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, byCorreggio--wonderful colouring. 

[Headnote: THE ITALIAN SCHOOL. ]

Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the +Tribuna+, and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and Frenchschools, and the collection of gems. +The Italian+, or more properly theLombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, D.  Ambrogi. Baroccio, J.  Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, Canaletto, A.  Caracci, G. DaCarpi, G.  Carpioni, B. Castiglione, M.  Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio. Domenichino, B. And D.  Dossi. C. Ferri, D.  Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo, L.  Giordano, Giorgione, F.  Granacci, J. Guercino. J.  Ligozzi, B. Luini. A.  Magnasco, A. Mantegna, L.  Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi, Moretto da Brescia. Palma (both), G.  P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P.  Piola, C. Procaccino, S.  Pulzone. G. Reni, P.  Reschi, S. Rosa. E.  Savonazzi, J. Scarsellino, B.  Schidone, F. Solimena. A.  Tiarini, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, A.  Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P.  Veronese, A. Vicentino. B.  Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are Guido Reni, 998Madonna; Parmigianino, 1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio, 1016 Child’s Head; A.  Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap;Caravaggio, 1031 Medusa. 

[Headnote: THE DUTCH, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH SCHOOLS. ]

_The Dutch School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are byBerkeyden, Borch, G.  Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, Netscher, O.  Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with Holy Family. R.  Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, Van der Heyden, Van der Werf, Van Kessel. 

_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife ofLuther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847Luther and Melancthon. C.  Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape, considered the gem of this department. G.  Dow, 786 Schoolmaster. A.  Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. QuintinMatsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his bestpictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits. Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a Madonna. 

_The French School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the mostnoteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess ofAlbany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, andafterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madamedo Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet. 

[Headnote: ROOM OF GEMS. ]

_The Room of Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed toview statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments madeof lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise, and gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article, a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life ofChrist engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII. , whopresented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room ofGems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco byUlivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures hereare 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton intothe Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters intoPoplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Roundaltar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youthextracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the Vatican;145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W. Cs. Is kept in thelittle office in the corner of this corridor). 

[Headnote: THE VENETIAN SCHOOL--PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS. ]

+West Corridor+ and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both sides, and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later datethan those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the+Venetian School+, represented by 82 paintings, and the next fourcontain portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behindthe Venetian school contains a collection of 80, 000 medals and coins. The 82 pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are bytwenty-five great masters, T.  Bassano, G. Bellini, P.  Bordone, C. Caliari, D.  Campagnole, Giorgione, L.  Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto, Morone, G.  Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo, A.  Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P.  Veneziano, C. Veronese, P.  Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the immortalTiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) and of theDuke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I. ; of “Flora, ” called hisMistress (626); of Giovanni, father of Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino(596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy Family; 609 Battle between theVenetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618Sketch of Virgin and Child for his celebrated picture in Sta. Maria atVenice. P.  Veronese, 589 Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther beforeAhasuerus, and 636 The Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage inCana. In the next two rooms are +Portraits of Artists+ of all nations, from the 15th cent. To the present time. In a niche is the statue (338)of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall thecelebrated +Medici Vase+ (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia inrelief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand DukeFerdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent. , and left it with200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable are--288Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 Rubens; 232Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; 374, 384, and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; 546 SirJoshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall ofportraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and stairsleading to the Pitti Gallery. See page 243. +Sala delleIscrizione. +--The walls are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions, arranged in 12 divisions according to the subject. In this room are alsosome very interesting ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torsoof a Faun. _Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite. _--The most important piece ofsculpture here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin, a valuable Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering. _Cabinet of Cameos. _--A very precious collection of ancient and moderncameos, statuettes, and enamels, including those presented by SirWilliam Currie in 1863. 

[Headnote: THE HALL OF NIOBE. ]

_Sala del Baroccio. _--Against the walls are beautiful tables inpietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the room byJacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall contains 172pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in size andmerit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The Virgininterceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of Galileo; 191, by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s best works, “St. Galla Placida. ” +Sala della Niobe. +--The hall of Niobe was built in1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the famous statues supposedto have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found near the Porta S.  Paoloat Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her children struck bythunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the finest and mostpowerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are round the cold, flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his separate pedestal, theillusion of design and composition is not only destroyed but individualcriticism invited, a test all of them cannot bear. It is believed thatoriginally they formed a group on the pediment of a temple. Niobe israther large, nearly nine heads high, but the child she protects iswithout a fault in form. This group is of one piece of marble. All theothers are in single figures. But the soul and source of all that isinteresting in these statues is the wonderful figure of the wounded anddying youth, represented lying on his back, his legs just crossing eachother, the left hand reclining on his breast, and his right arm slightlyraised. As a statue, it commands the highest admiration, and as a chasteand powerful picture of death, the keenest sympathy. Behind the statueof Niobe is a very large picture by Rubens--Henri IV. At the battle ofIvry--a performance of wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and oppositeit, 147 The entry of Henri IV. Into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152Honthorst, Fortune-teller. 

[Headnote: THE HALL OF BRONZES. ]

_Sala dei Bronzi. _--In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the mostremarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso428 found near Leghorn--a torso is the trunk of a statue that has lostthe arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a youth, 5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in 1530. Thepedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a list of theRoman Decurions, dated A. D. 223. _Galleria Feroni. _--In this room arearranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, ofwhich the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop, by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by B.  Schidone. Outside, inthe corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali Paoli, the Corsican patriot, by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, themaster of Claude Lorraine. 

[Headnote: THE WAY FROM THE UFFIZI TO THE PITTI GALLERIES. ]

THE CONNECTING GALLERIES. 

Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages andstairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage ofFrancesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. Thewalls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno arecovered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constitutinga complete history of the art from the 15th cent. To the present time. The corridor on the +Ponte Vecchio+ crossing the Arno is occupied with aglorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first part ofthe corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous portraitsof the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage behind theVia Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, executed in the 16thand 17th cent. In Paris and Florence. The best are those representingthe festivities at the marriages of Henry II. With Catherine de’ Medici, and of Henry IV. With Maria de’ Medici, executed in 1560 after designsby Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a short stair ascends to a room hungwith pictures painted in chiaroscuro, or in one colour, by several ofthe old painters. From this another short stair leads to the long narrowgallery on the wall of the Boboli gardens. This gallery is hung withwater-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo Ligozzi, in 1695, representingwith wonderful truthfulness, figures of birds, fishes, and plants. Tothese illustrations of natural history succeeds a series of miniaturepaintings of scenes in the life of our Lord. Now we come to the commonstone stair leading upwards to the Pitti Gallery, and downwards to thedoor fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next the gate leading into theBoboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a large vestibule, with awindow looking into the gardens. The names of the Sale and Stanze (Hallsand Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room is provided with two ofthese catalogues, one in Italian and another in French. The halls arepainted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and rich tables ofFlorentine mosaic. 

THE PITTI GALLERY. 

The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell’ Illiado_, painted by Sabatelliin 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity, ” by Bartolini. Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is hisPortrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkablepicture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano isrepresented by some of his best portraits:--No. 200, Philip II. OfSpain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215, Portrait; and 228, theHead of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P. Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, S. Rosa, his own Portrait;and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod. Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. 230, Parmigianino, the Madonna collungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha. 

[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--HALLS OF SATURN, JUPITER, MARS, APOLLO. ]

_Sala di Saturno. _--The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro daCortona. The gems of this room may be considered:--151, Portrait of PopeJulius II. ; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. The othersby Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of (171)Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. Of Englandand Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by Perugino. 

_Sala di Giove. _--Ceiling painted by P. Da Cortona. In the centre of theroom statue of “Victory, ” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables inFlorentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon ofJupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Thenfollow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, byA.  del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the lowercorner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials S.  A.  R.  O. No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of G.  Benci, by Leonardo daVinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens. 

_Sala di Marte. _--Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, Rubens, Van Dyck, and A. Del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful paintings. The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. 94 is aHoly Family, also by him--called the “Impannata” or cloth window. No. 81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. Del Sarto. 82, Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by Rubens. 96, Judith, by C.  Allori. 

_Sala di Prometeo. _--The Mosaic Table in this room, by Giorgi, occupiedhim fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo Lippi. 

_Sala di Apollo. _--Raphael has three portraits in this room:--59 and 61, M. And A.  Doni; and 63, Leo X.  Tiziano has some fine works:--No. 67, a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and 54, Aretino, the poet, isone of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by Murillo. 58, by A. Del Sarto, Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the same subjectadmirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo. 

_Sala di Venere_ (Venus). --Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and 15 are twomost charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella Donna, byTiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L.  Cardi (Il Cigoli). 

_Galleria Poccetti. _--Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns in orientalalabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and admirablyexecuted miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by Card. Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in ivory, amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones. 

_Stanza della Giustizia. _--Painted by Fedi. The beautiful ebony cabinetwas used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in this room is408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir Peter Lely, by request of Ferdinand II. Of Tuscany. 

[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--ROOMS OF FLORA, ULLISSE, GIOVE. ]

_Stanza di Flora. _--In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, calledalso the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace theVenus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off toParis, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II. , bySustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of theShepherds, by Tiziano. 

_Stanza dei Putti. _--Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large picture bySal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest--Diogenes throwing away hisdrinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael. 

_Stanza d’ Ullisse. _--Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portraitby Rubens of the favourite of James I. , George Villiers, Duke ofBuckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, byLigozzi. 297, Paul III. , by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by Sal. Rosa. 

_Stanza del Bagno. _--This, the bath-room, is tastefully fitted up with amosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, and four marblestatues, by Insom and Bongiovanni. 

_Stanza dell’ educazione di Giove. _--Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonnadel Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the PittiGallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. Of Spain byVelasquez. 248, a “Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra. Bartolommeo. 

_Stanza della Stufa. _--The frescoes on the walls, representing the FourAges of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the nephew of MichaelAngelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are byRosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antiquestatues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain vasewith a likeness of Napoleon I. , and two justly celebrated bronze statuesof Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by Papi in 1849. 

THE BOBOLI GARDENS. 

Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend tothe foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and passthrough the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays andfeast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at theoffice of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of thecorridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleandersand oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses, encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts morelike a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificialgrotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by G.  Bologna;and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael Angelo, intendedfor the monument of Julius II. At Rome, and presented to Cosmo I. ByL.  Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is the Amphitheatre; within thecentre a granite obelisk and a large granite basin from Egypt, butbrought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the palace, near the Porta Romana, is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in marble by G.  Bologna. In theflower-garden “del Cavaliere, ” are two more fountains, with monkeys inbronze, by the same artist, and a small villa, from the top of whichthere is a fine view (entrance 25c. ) On the highest part of the gardens, facing the palace, is a colossal statue of Dovizia (Abundance), commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil Dacca. 

[Headnote: PITTI PALACE. ]

THE PITTI PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinishedbuilding was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, butnot till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied bythe building 35, 231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosedthe beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, andCorinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grottocovered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamentedwith statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs inbronze. To the right of the court is the Royal Chapel. Above the altaris an ivory crucifix by G.  Bologna. At the end of the portico, to theleft, a door opens into the court, in which is the entrance into theroom containing the splendid _Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Celliniand Maso Finiguerra, and ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, thefamous artist in wax, has likewise some of his works here. The stateapartments are sumptuously furnished. 

[Headnote: TRIBUNA GALILEO--MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. ANATOMICALPREPARATIONS IN WAX. ]

Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is thehouse in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther upthe Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the

MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE, in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both openon Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule is anold terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, probably byIgnazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence by Cosmo I. Hedied in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or Tribuna di Galileo. [*]Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the table. Thestatue of him is by A.  Costoli. In the niche to the right are histelescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by himself, and bywhich he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the niche on the leftare his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical instrumentsbelonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 and dissolvedin 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince Leopold de’Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating scenes in thelife of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of Galileo, takenfrom the body when it was removed to its present resting-place in thechurch of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the excellent andcomprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections are admirablyarranged, and in good condition. The botanical department contains theherbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to have collectedabout the year 1563; of P.  A. Micheli, collected about the year 1725; ofCentral Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; of Labillardière, whoaccompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New Holland; ofR.  Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the Englishman, P.  B. Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this museum. But the mostwonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical preparations in wax, chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, under the direction ofTommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great works of the greatpainters, they are executed with the most minute care and truthfulnessto nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the cuttle-fish or ofthe silkworm, or the life-like representation of the most delicateorgans of the human body. They are contained in twelve rooms, enteredfrom the shell department, by the door lettered “Ittiologia, ” openinginto the Zootomia. 

 [Footnote *: The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any large niche. But the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the semicircular cavity at the extremity of a Roman basilica, where the judges sat. In the early ages of the church some of these buildings were given to the Christians for public worship, who still retained their secular name, and worshipped in them without consecration. ]

THE HOUSE OF GALILEO, at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate bywhich, in 1536, Charles V. And Pope Leo X. Entered Florence. An omnibusruns between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side there is acab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the omnibus for theCertosa (see page 250). Immediately outside the Porta commence threebroad roads--the lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to theCertosa; the centre one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via delPoggio Imperiale; while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the firstof a series of magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that nobleterrace the Piazza Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggioto the Royal Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now theInstituto della Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascendby the Via del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the roadto the right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing thehouse in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in whichwhen blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo wasborn in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, isindicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steeplittle road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower(Torre del Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations. It contains several relics of the great astronomer--a telescope, table, and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico che siconosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by Salvatelli, a smallerportrait of him by P.  Leoni, 1624. From the farmhouse a steep narrowroad leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza Michelangiolo andthe Porta Romana. 

[Headnote: SAN MINIATO. ]

THE PIAZZALE MICHELANGIOLO. 

There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk ordrive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of S.  Miniato. They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the Arno, two bridgeshigher up the river than the Uffizi, and are distinctly seen from theLung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on foot is, having crossedthe Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio), walkup the left bank of the Arno, passing the Piazza containing the finemarble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, by L.  Bartolini, in 1835, and continue the walk up the river till arrival at a square tower in thePiazza della Molina, whence commence the ascent by the stairs and roadthe Viale dei Colli. Or approach it from the Porta Romana by the fineavenues the Viali Machiavelli and Galileo, bordered by trees andhandsome villas, disclosing as they wind round the steep sides of thehills a succession of ever-varying views. The Piazzale Michelangiolo isa splendid terrace, 165 feet above the Arno, commanding a grandprospect, and adorned with five statues in bronze, copies by C.  Papi ofMichael Angelo’s famous works. To the right is the Viale Michelangiolo, the carriage road leading down to the Barriera San Niccolo, opposite thesuspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). Above the Piazzale, by the conventchurch of San Salvatore del Monte (built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the+Basilica of San Miniato+, one of the earliest (1013) as well as one ofthe most perfect structures in the Byzantine style. Internally it is 165feet long by 70 wide, and is divided longitudinally into aisles bypillars of classical design. The façade is faulty. The tower was erectedin 1519. The floor of the nave is considerably under the level of thechancel, which terminates in a semi-dome, covered with mosaics executedin 1247, and of the same kind as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behindthe altar are five small windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble. Between the stairs leading up to the chancel is the chapel constructedin 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie the remains of Gualberto, the founder ofthe church and of the order of Vallombrosa. In the centre of the northaisle is the chapel of Cardinal Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is byB.  Rossellino, and the beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Lucadella Robbia. On the south side is the Sacristy (built in 1387), exquisitely painted in fresco by Spinello Aretino, representing scenesin the life of St. Benedict. In the centre of the nave is a curiouspiece of Byzantine pavement, executed in 1207. Below the chancel is thecrypt, supported on 38 marble columns, several being prolongations ofthose above. Under the altar is the tomb of San Miniato. From theterraces of the adjoining cemetery there are splendid views of Florenceand of the valley of the Arno. 

THE CERTOSA. 

From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, atthe hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ milesdistant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing thegrounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leadingup to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquelysituated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent. , and isnow the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friarsof the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. Atthe entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in theconvent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equalto that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to seethe convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is afresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-centostyle, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a frescoby Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls, and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. Aisle pass to chapel ofS.  Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity ofthe Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the mausoleumof the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs over thetombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow cloister with eightsmall windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, 1560; Cappella delCapitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by Albertinelli, and inthe centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by Stogallo, 1545; thenthe Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and bedroom. He was aprisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are obtained from variousparts. In passing through the villages women may be seen plaitingstraw--a standard occupation in Tuscany. 

[Headnote: BELLO SGUARDO. MONTE OLIVETO. ]

+Views. +--From the Porta Romana commences also the road to the BelloSguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about a mile distant), both commandingsplendid views of the city, of the valley of the Arno, and of thesurrounding mountains. Immediately outside the Porta turn to the right, and walk by the side of the city wall by the Via Petrarcha till thesecond road on the left, the Via de Casone, by which continue to ascendtill a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello Sguardo. By itascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino, where at thehouse No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the pavilion of this house;fee, ½ fr. To go from this to Monte Oliveto descend to the Via di BelloSguardo, and from a house with a high railing turn to the right by the“Via di Monte Oliveto Per S.  Vito, ” and descend to a large gateway andhouse on the left hand. At this house ask for the key of the MonteOliveto, then walk forward past the old convent, now a militaryhospital, to the top of the knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold theview. Now descend by the Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of thehill, enters the Via Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the PortaS.  Frediano, whence an omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. Ifpreferred, the tour may be commenced at this end, taking the omnibusfrom the Piazza to the Porta. 

[Headnote: SANTO SPIRITO. SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE. ]

SANTO SPIRITO AND SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE. --By referring to the plan itwill be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace aretwo churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famousfrescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino Lippi (b. 1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in which Lutherpreached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. The presentchurch of the S.  Spirito was commenced in 1446 by F.  Brunelleschi, destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 according toBrunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable proportions, was erected by B. D’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. Long, and 191 at thetransept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of the aislesrest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of pietra-serena, brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church are 38semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro Allori, Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. Del Garbio, Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, and CosimoRosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th chapel fromentrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left transept, 19th and 20thchapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. 22d chapel, anAnnunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the most remarkablework is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, a Pieta, by BaccioBigio, a copy of the group by Michael Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. Theproportions of the dead body of our Lord are admirable, and the ribs, loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully marked. Before the choir is ascreen erected in 1599, composed of bronze and rich marbles, andalthough rather out of place, full of beautiful details. The high altar, under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of rare porphyry, is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni Caccini. A doorin the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the joint work of San Galloand Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. In the sacristy a doorto the right opens into the cloisters, by A.  Parigi, adorned withfrescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and Cascetti. 

[Headnote: BRANCACCI CHAPEL. ]

The church +Del Carmine+ was erected in 1475, destroyed by fire in 1771, and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and Mannaconi. Among the parts whichescaped destruction in 1771 was the Brancacci chapel, at the end of thewestern or right transept, covered with valuable frescoes, in 12compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and Masolino da Panicale. The fourprincipal subjects are (left wall) “Christ directing St. Peter to take acoin from a fish’s mouth to pay the tribute, ” by Masaccio, whoseportrait is given in the last apostle to the right; “the Restoration toLife of the Emperor’s Nephew, ” painted by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio. On the right wall are-- “St. Peter raising Tabitha, ” by Masolino; “theCrucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St. Paul before the Proconsul, ” byFilippino Lippi. These frescoes are said to have been studied byPerugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo. Of the eightsmall subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and Eve, ” and “St. Peter and St. John Healing the Sick by means of their Shadows, ” on the left wall; “St. Peter Baptising, ” and “St. Peter Distributing Alms, ” on the right wall, are all by Masaccio. “The Visit of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison, ” onthe left wall, and “the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison, ” on theright wall, are by Lippi. “Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge, ”and “St. Peter Healing the Cripple, ” are ascribed by some to Masolino, by others to Masaccio. In the opposite arm of the transept is theCorsini chapel, with large marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoeson the ceiling by Luca Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are somefrescoes discovered in 1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also, and with more probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in thelife of St. Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, somefragments of which, removed the year before the fire, are now in theRoyal Institution, Liverpool. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--DOME--ASCENT. ]

 The Duomo, 252. The Campanile, 255. The Baptistery, 256. Il Bigallo, 257. San Michele, 257. Santa Croce, 258. The National Museum, 261. La Badia, 263. The House of Michael Angelo, 263. 

The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria del Fiore was commenced byArnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone laid on the 8th of September1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate ever sent toFlorence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. In 1330Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea Pisano, continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in 1337. To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea Orcagna. In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and completed it in allits essential parts before his death, which took place in 1446. In 1469Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper ball and cross. The dome, built without timber centrings, consists of two vast vaults, an interiorand an exterior, both supported by strong ribs at the right angles, andsurrounded at the base by a strong iron chain. From the floor to the topof the dome the height is 300 feet, the lantern 52 more, and to the topof the cross other 35. The total height therefore is, from the floor tothe top of the cross, 387 feet. The circumference of the dome is 466feet. Three galleries are carried round the drum. The first is reachedby 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; and the third, which runs roundthe top of the drum and the base of the dome, by other 65 steps. Theappearance of the church from the first and third galleries is moststriking. Outside the third gallery commences the cornice gallery of thedome. From this part 180 steps (between the two vaults) lead to the topof the cupola. From the top of the cupola to the ball the ascent is madeup through the lantern by 32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps inmarble, and 23 in wood. The number of steps, therefore, from the floorinto the ball is 528; the only difficult part being the vertical bronzebear-like ladder in the lantern, which is not worth ascending, as littlecan be seen (and that little with difficulty) from an aperture in theball. But the view from the gallery at the top of the dome is trulymagnificent. Florence and neighbourhood lie stretched out below like ona map, and as the clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallestobjects being seen distinctly, the traveller should visit this galleryas early as possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234), a practical acquaintance with the topography of the city. To the N. E. , by the Piazza Cavour and the stream Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 milesdistant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on theArno, is the Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump oftrees, on the other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250). To the S. E. , on the other side of the Arno, are the PiazzaleMichelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece beyond isthe Torre del Gallo (page 248). West from the Piazzale are the BoboliGardens and the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to befound in south sacristy. 

The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the superficialarea 84, 802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area occupied byCologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone ofthe gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole exterior of the church, with polished white marble, and dark magnesian serpentine disposed inchastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement often met with in thechurches of Italy. 

[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO’S LAST WORK. ]

In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of thenave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under themagnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do notstruggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relativelyunimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marblepavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once andstand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like thenarrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongatedoctagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statuesof eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, andSansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and thereliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof representsthe Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G.  Vasari, in 1572, and therest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of QueenElizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular windows, which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the twenty-sevenlong windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi da Gambassi, Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind the altar isthe last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of age), an_unfinished Pieta_, a heroic group, large but not colossal, composed offour figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and anAngel. The interest of the piece lies in the melancholy but placidcountenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination of the head laceratedby the crown of thorns. The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in thesixth room of the National Museum, along with some other works of thegreat sculptor. His greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, seepage 266. The reliefs in terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates ofthe sacristies, are considered amongst the best works of Lucca dellaRobbia. On the pier at the N. E. End of the nave is the statue of St. James, by Sansovino; and just behind it, on the wall, is a painting byDomenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing Dante (holding in his handsa copy of his poems), with a view of Florence in the background, theonly monument the Republic raised to him they had so unjustly banished. In the north transept, covered by the wooden floor, just under the ironbar, is the gnomen and meridian line, formed by P.  Toscanelli in 1408, and repaired by A.  Ximines in 1756. The line drawn on the true pavement, under the present boarded floor, runs in a direction nearly at rightangles to the nave (the nave being nearly east and west). It is onlyabout 30 feet long, and receives the image of the sun, at and near thesolstice, in June and July; at other seasons the image is lost on thesides of the cupola. The short diameter of the image in July is about 36inches. The height of the aperture, through which the ray enters by awindow of the cupolina, is 277 feet 4 inches, 9. 68 lines French measure;so that, as the inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--MONUMENTS--CAMPANILE. ]

Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the mainentrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood, a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at Florencein 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, is byGaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble monumentand portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. Cavalcanti. Thethird monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. The beautifulwater-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern entrance, infront of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a sitting posture, of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi Pampaloni, in 1830. Tothe right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29, is a stone in the wall, bearing the words “Sasso di Dante, ” because on it the poet used to sitwatching the progress of the cathedral from its commencement till 1301, when he was compelled to leave the city. 

At the southern entrance is the +Campanile del Duomo+, designed andcommenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. Thisdove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions andbeautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeysof elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projectingfrom the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of 94½feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of apostles, saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture subjects in boldrelief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, Niccolo Aretino, Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. Di Bartolo. Ascent by 414 steps. Fee, ½ franc each visitor. 

[Headnote: THE BAPTISTERY--GATES--ALTAR. ]

Adjoining the cathedral is the church of +San Giovanni+, the baptisteryof the city, founded in 6th cent. , and repaired and restored in 1293 byArnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal building, 94 ft. In diameter, covered by a cupola and lantern built in 1550. Three celebrated bronzegates, of admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S. Side (fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and, after twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. Thearchitrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446, and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V. Danti, in 1571--a work full of expression. The N. Gate is by LorenzoGhiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished (modelled andcast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty compartments, representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three statues above, and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, a fellow-pupil of MichaelAngelo, and friend of L. Da Vinci. At the eastern end, facing thecathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael Angelo said was worthy toform the entrance into Paradise. This marvel of art was commenced byLorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and finished, with the exceptionof the lower reliefs, in 1456, when Ghiberti died, and left theremainder to be completed by his pupils, among whom were the brothersPollaioli. It is in ten compartments, representing as many scenes fromthe Old Testament. In grouping, drawing, grace, and beauty, the figuresare truly admirable. The perspective is well sustained; the distantobjects being done in low, the nearer objects in middle, and those closeupon the eye in high relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, bySansovino, who, when he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling;but Danti, in 1560, produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly acentury afterwards, are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model. 

The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marblepilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoesof saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and thesoffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representingthe Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G.  Gaddie, 13th cent. To theright of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419), by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, placed here in1658, and attributed to G.  Pisano. The silver altar of the Baptistery iskept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata del Duomo” (behind theeast end of the cathedral), where it can be seen any day from 9 to 12, for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long series of years from1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents in boldrelief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs. , is 12 ft. Longby nearly 4 ft. High. The silver statue of St. John, made in 1452, weighs 14½ lbs. , and cross 140 lbs. 

[Headnote: THE BIGALLO. ]

Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the verybeautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to Orcagna, enclosed with iron gates by F.  Petrucci. The oratory contains an imageof the Virgin by A.  Arnoldo, 1359; and a predella, with paintings, byGhirlandaio. 

OR SAN MICHELE. 

Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del Duomoand della Signoria, is the +Or San Michele+, built at first of undressedstone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or horreum. Havingbeen destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 under thedirection of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the commonwealth. ToGaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to transform the lowerpart (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper storey was convertedinto government offices. Round the building, in deep niches, are statuesin simple attitudes and of noble dignified forms, the result of a decreethat each trade should bear the expense of furnishing one statue, whichshould be the protector and supporter of its own profession. St. Luke, by John of Bologna (good specimen of his style), was executed at theexpense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. Thomas, by Verrochio, for themercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by L.  Ghiberti, for the guild offoreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by Donatello, for the butchers. Johnthe Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a graceful canopy of Robbia-ware, for the silk manufacturers. St. George, by Donatello, his noblest work, for the armourers. St. James, by N.  Banco, for the tanners and furriers. St. Mark, by Donatello, for the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, byBanco, for the blacksmiths and farriers. St. Stephen, by L.  Ghiberti, for the wool-merchants. St. Matthew, by L.  Ghiberti and Michelozzo, forthe stockbrokers and money-changers. Statues of four canonisedsculptors, by Banco, for the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, byBanco, for the hosiers. And inside the church, to the left of the altarof St. Anne, a Madonna, by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians andapothecaries. These statues are considered the finest works of theancient Florentine school. Over the niches are the arms of therespective trades, under graceful canopies. 

In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high altar, by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred picture ofthe Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictorFlorentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359. ” It isornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the differentpieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. Thesmall but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient lightinto the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is anadmirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no lessadmirably to a Fountain. 

SANTA CROCE. 

South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by thenarrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, inthe centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by EnricoPazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, onthe 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of SantaCroce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeededGiotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, isaccording to the old design of S.  Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and owes itserection in a very great measure to the liberality of an Englishgentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in 1871. Theinterior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute Gothicarches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, are ofrude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread out onthe walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours thedisplay of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entirelength from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at thetransepts 128 feet. 

[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO--DANTE. MACCHIAVELLI--KETTERICK--COUNTESS OFALBANY. ]

Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St. Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed byDonatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the mainentrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place ofMichael Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monumentwas designed by G.  Vasari, and executed by three pupils of MichaelAngelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by B.  Lorenzione, one of the three. Next follows the great marble monument by S.  Ricci, in1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in exile at Ravenna in 1321, in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri(d. 1803), by Canova, in 1809, and one of his best works. Opposite thismonument is an elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. Da Majano, in 1470. 4th. Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi, in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707, raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St. John and St. Francis, by A.  Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone byDonatello; and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of JohnKetterick, Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on amission from Henry V. Of England to the Pope. Then follow the monumentto L.  Bruni (d. 1444), by B.  Rossellini. The Virgin, above, is byA.  Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of P.  A. Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. Veneziani. Turningto the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in London, 1859), anda slab on the ground, with an inscription by Boccaccio, in honour of thepoet Berberino (14th cent. ), we enter the Chapel of the Castellani, withfrescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of Giotto), and reredos byVasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; at each side sarcophagiof the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard and St. Francis, by L. Della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the Countess of Albany, widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, 1824; age, 72years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the Countess of Albanyfollows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos painting byGiotto, frescoes by T.  Gaddi, and a Pietà by Bandinelli. 

 A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of T. Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the extremity of the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance is a shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the altar, admirable specimens of L. Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The large relief is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door to the right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo were kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two mausoleums--one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression. 

[Headnote: GIOTTO’S FRESCOES. ]

Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) frescoesof the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second chapel, frescoes by Gio. Da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte chapel, is, tothe left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory of the wife ofJoseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory of theirdaughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or the first tothe right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with reredos by A. Del Sarto. On the walls +Giotto’s best frescoes+, representing thestories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, theBardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S.  Francesco, isby Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and deathof San Francesco. 

_Chapels of the Choir. _--Over the high altar, painting by AndreaOrcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by AgnoloGaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and the lifeof St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much importance, excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in fresco by LuigiSabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with frescoes on the roof, painted in the 17th cent. By Baldassarre Franceschini, surnamed _ilVolterrano_. This chapel contains five mediocre statues by Francavilla, and two large paintings on wood by Alessandro Allori, and is also richlydecorated with beautiful marbles. In the adjoining chapel, belonging tothe Bardi family, is a crucifix by Donatello, one of his earliest andbest works, yet not equal to that of his rival Brunelleschi in S. MariaNovella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyskamausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to thecomposer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. Having arrived atthe fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the north aisle, toavoid confusion it is better to return to the main entrance, and walk upthe north aisle, commencing with the monument and resting-place of

[Headnote: GALILEO--BARTOLINI’S LAST WORK. ]

GALILEO GALILEI, who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaphis his bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then followsthe monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G.  Lani (1770), bySpinazzi, --on the column before this monument is a Pietà by A.  Bronzino;4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat pyramid; 5th, to Vitt. Fossombroni, by L.  Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to Karolus Marzupinus, thelearned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by D.  Settignano, 1450;7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to _Raffællo Morghen_, theillustrious Neapolitan engraver, a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti. Fronting it, on the column, is the monument to L.  B. Alberti, the lastwork of Bartolini. 

To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to thecloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within thisenclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works. To the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containingthe refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixionand Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine frescoof Gio. Di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782. The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of therefectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelliwhich originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo. 

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OR BARGELLO. 

At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the PiazzasSta. Croce and Signoria, is the +National Museum+, in the Palazzo delPodestà, built in the 13th cent. By Lapo Tedesco and two Dominicanfriars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, according tothe functions of the different dignities who occupied it. When, in the17th cent. , it was converted into a prison and became the seat of thehead of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it was chosenfor the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3. 30, 1 fr. Free onfeast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the escutcheonsof 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground floor arefilled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon cast in1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the +Marzocco+, or the +Arms ofFlorence+, a seated lion supporting a shield with its left paw. Ascendto the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in the court. It was builtby Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, are two bells, one castin 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni in 1670. 

[Headnote: SCULPTURE--MICHAEL ANGELO--BOLOGNA--CELLINI. ]

_First saloon. _--All labelled. Principal objects--By _Michael Angelo_, Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an unfinished groupof Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. G. Da Bologna, Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, illustratingMusic and its effects, chiefly by L.  Robbia and Donatello. _Secondroom. _--Furniture and glass ware. Wax group by Zumbo. _Third hall_, theaudience chamber of the Podestà. --Majolica, porcelain, and enamelledware. _Fourth hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room inwhich prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes arechiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the eastwall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his masterBrunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be byGhirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which isthought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to seethem must request the door to be opened. _Fifth saloon. _--Two triptychsby Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock crystal by Cellini, Bologna, andN.  Pisano. Wood carving by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up tothe second floor. ) _Saloons 6 and 7. _--Sculptures by the best Italianartists of the 15th cent. , all labelled. Among them may be noted, in thesixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in thecentre, a Child by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by Bologna. David, by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by Pollaiolo, representing theCrucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on the right by Ghiberti, andthe other on the left by Brunelleschi, prepared for the competition forthe doors of the Baptistery of Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fineornament by Donatello. At the beginning of the third wall is a largebas-relief by V. Dante, representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert;and below it, another representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These arefollowed by a cabinet full of sketches by the best artists of the 15thand 16th cents. After these, the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis inArmour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and his model in bronze of the Perseus, under the loggia. Ascend now to the second floor by the stair in thefifth room. 1st room. --Portraits in fresco by A.  Castagno (1450), transferred to canvas a few years ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d roomon the right. --Fine display of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca andAndrea Robbia. Stained glass window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room(tower). --Tapestry 17th cent. 4th room (on the left of theentrance). --French tapestry and collection of coins. In the next tworooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture+, whichformerly stood in the galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, Johnthe Baptist, by Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. Da Rovezzano, 1507, the Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room6, in the centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, bySansovino. Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St. Peter, by L.  Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year);Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall, bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrancewall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a bustof Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a St. John. Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five childrensupporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna, by Verrochio. 

[Headnote: FLORENCE. LA BADIA--HOUSE OF MICHAEL ANGELO. ]

At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, is+La Badia+, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines;rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 bySegaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some goodmonuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsomedoor is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to theright of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. Onthe adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. Inthe north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni, d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum ofCount Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by G.  Vasari, and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a Madonna appearing to St. Bernard, byF.  Lippi. 

A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, isthe house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, a plain building, containing acollection of paintings, sculptures, and sundry objects connected withMichael Angelo, bequeathed to the care of the State by the last memberof the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in 1858. The gallery is open to thepublic on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 to 3. Catalogue in Italian orFrench, ½ fr. The collection is contained in seven rooms, some verysmall. In the centre of the first room is a small bust of MichaelAngelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at different ages. No. 14, Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in relief, by MichaelAngelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed terra-cotta figures by theRobbias, displaying admirably the fine delicate surface of the enamelpeculiar to their productions. Amongst those who have distinguishedthemselves in the manufactory of earthenware is Luca della Robbia, a Florentine goldsmith and statuary, born in 1388. He made heads andhuman figures in relief, and architectural ornaments of glazedearthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. The colours are white, blue, green, brown, and yellow. The art of making these glazed earthen figuresinvented by Luca was taught by him to his brothers Ottaviano andAgostino, and was afterwards practised by his nephew Andrea. The roomsto the left contain drawings and plans of Michael Angelo, many being theoriginal sketches of his greatest works. First room right, the principalroom of all, contains the statue of Michael Angelo in a sitting posture, by Novelli; and around the room sixteen pictures illustrating scenes inhis life. The lower six are in grisaille. The ceiling is painted infresco. The next or fourth room contains the family history, illustratedby twenty-one fresco paintings. In the small cabinet off this room are, among other things, a two-edged sword with the Buonarrotti arms. In thefifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77, a cast in bronze of 74, by Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust ofMichael Angelo. Sixth room (the Library), large frescoes, representingthe eminent men of Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small roomoff, are Etruscan antiquities. 

 San Giovannino, 264. San Lorenzo, 264. The Mortuary Chapel. The Sagrestia Nuova, 265. Biblioteca Laurentiana. Etruscan and Egyptian Museum, 267. Santa Maria Novella, 267. Spezeria, 268. See Plan, near station. 

[Headnote: SAN LORENZO. ROAD TO THE SAGRESTIA NUOVA. UNDERGROUNDCHAPEL. ]

North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and nextthe Palazzo Riccardi (see page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino, rebuilt in the 16th cent. , with frescoes representing scenes in the lifeof Christ, by Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, andLigozzi. A few yards west from San Giovannino is SAN LORENZO, consideredin the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan church ofFlorence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, when itwas consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and consecratedby Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in 1417, during afestival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs of Florence, itwas again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, and finished byAntonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form of a T, 400 feetlong from east to west, and 170 from north to south. The aisles arelofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian columns. The twopulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in relief, byDonatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by Meucci. Atthe north transept is a monument in white marble by Thorwaldsen toPietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the mortuary chapel. Inthe south transept is a monument to the memory of a daughter of GeneralMoltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar bears the title and age ofCosmo I. , but his remains repose in a black and white marble tomb in thesubterranean church. [Headnote: MORTUARY CHAPEL. ] Those pressed for timeshould, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. Lorenzo, turndown to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del Canto de’ Nelli, to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse of San Lorenzo, which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi, ” of the Medicifamily, and to the still more famous chapel called the _SagrestiaNuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and everyother day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to theleft, which leads into the mortuary chapel. Guides offer theirassistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan alone can unlockthe doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered with polishedmarbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant harmony ofcolour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are continued on theceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of P.  Benvenuti, paintedin 1835. In each of six of the sides is a monument to a member of theMedicean family, from Cosmo I. To Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son, G.  Gastone (d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in thecrypt or lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatellonear those of his patron Cosmo I. , as well as those of 35 other membersof this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church ofRome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteencities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set inpanels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of theseprinces. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. De Medici, andbuilt by M.  Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I. , Duke of Tuscany, toreceive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled “to the doorof the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised him by theEmir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having fulfilled hispromise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his predecessor, Cosmo I. , and had it converted into the burial chapel of the Medicean family. [Headnote: SAGRESTIA NUOVA. ] From this chapel a short narrow passageleads to the +Sagrestia Nuova+, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containingthe monuments and mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, andbrother of Pope Leo X. ; and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, andfather of Catherine of Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue ofMoses at Rome, are the greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of theedifice was conceived by Pope Leo, but the design and execution wereentrusted in 1521 to Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing. A formal square chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble, supported by two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stonecalled pietra dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in thesame tame, flat style. To the right on entering is the grand monument ofGiuliano. He is represented in a sitting posture, with his left handgloved and raised. The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, whichseems to yield to the pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on thecountenance. The two statues reclining on the urn represent Day andNight. Day is little more than blocked, yet most magnificent. To havedone more would have weakened the striking effect of the whole, which isheightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined. The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touchingexpression--the drooping head and the supporting hand are unrivalled inthe arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The attitude ofLorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding as to haveacquired for it the title of “il pensiero. ” Beneath are thepersonifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by asuperb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chestand the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the rightlimb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figureof exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought, an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, asif preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of thealtar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On theright is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of MichaelAngelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo. 

[Headnote: BIBLIOTHECA LAURENTIANA. ]

A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of S.  Lorenzoleads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by Vasari, to theBibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The books are kept in desks. Open from9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, 1 fr. This library was founded byCosmo in 1444. Amongst the remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgilof the 4th cent. In Roman capitals, not very different in form from theletters on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of asmall quarto, with notes; the notes written in the 5th cent. By theConsul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, as his signature attests. This is oneof the most ancient legible manuscript books in Europe of which theperiod is authentic. The manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library, with paintings, was said to be of the 4th cent. , of the time ofConstantine. The manuscripts of the middle ages, instead of being inRoman capitals, are written in letters resembling in some degree thesmall Roman printed letter now in use; and, at a still later period, they are in a running hand. This library also possesses the celebratedmanuscript of the Pandects, supposed to be of the time of Justinian, inthe 6th cent. , written in capital letters, which vary a little from thecapitals on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of alarge folio book; it was brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. Caused anedition to be printed from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11thcent. Is in a running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes ofmanuscripts. Many of them are chained to the desks. 

[Headnote: ETRUSCAN MUSEUM. ]

Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza,  No. 144, isthe Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free onSundays. 

_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. Theearliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is theentrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles thatin which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of theoriginal on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that theEtruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spiritswere invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase ofPeleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 nearChiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and paintedby Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, Beautifulgold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From this room acorridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful bronzestatue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan mirrors. _Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of the celebratedstatues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. _Sixth Room_, Etruscansculpture. Both of the gems of the collection are in this room--_TheOrator_, a bronze statue above life size, discovered near LakeThrasymene; and an _Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 yearsburied in the earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 yearsB. C. From this we enter, by a passage covered with inscriptions, intothe Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the centre, a Scythian war-chariot(the only specimen known), and by the side of it the remains of theEgyptian soldier who probably captured the chariot in battle. _SecondRoom_, The most interesting object here is the fresco of the _LastSupper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when only twenty-two. On the border of St. Thomas’s dress are the date and name. In the last great hall aresarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, idols, mummies, portraits, andtabernacles. 

[Headnote: S. MARIA NOVELLA. ]

Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedraland S.  Lorenzo, is the church of +Santa Maria Novella+, facing thepiazza of the same name, adorned with two large obelisks of SerravezzaMischio marble, crowned with Florentine lilies in bronze, by G.  Bologna, 1608. 

[Headnote: RUCELLAI CHAPEL--GHIRLANDAIO--BRUNELLESCHI. ]

This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 andfinished in 1371. The façade was designed by L.  Alberti, and erected atthe expense of G.  Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on the frieze, “Joannes Orcellarius, 1470. ” Affixed to it are gnomonic instruments, made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco over theprincipal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a pupil ofGiotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is aremarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a frescoattributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at thenorthern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east orright transept, up some steps, is the +Rucellai Chapel+. On the reredosof the altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered hismasterpiece. The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the highaltar, are covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D.  Ghirlandaio, nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by B. D’Agnola, and the windows by G.  Fiorentino. In the chapel on the left, or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden _Crucifix byBrunelleschi_. A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. Transept, upsome steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A.  Orcagna and hisbrother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. Theopen door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where, immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin, by L.  Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by G.  Fortini. A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens into the cloister calledthe Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the walls, by Paolo Uccello, 1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted in green. Here the keeper, for a few sous, opens the door leading into the Cappella degliSpagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by the attendants ofEleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling and the left wall arecovered with admirably conceived and executed frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, while those on the right wall are by Simone Memmi. Adjoining is theChiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by Cigoli, Allori, Tito, Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th cent. , illustrative ofthe history of the Dominicans, with views of Florence in the background. At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or pharmacyof the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a red liquorcalled Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in taste theliqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. It is alsomade and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains somebeautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, bySpinello Aretino. 

 The Santissima Annunziata, 268. San Marco, 270. Picture-Gallery of San Marco, 270. Academy of Fine Arts, 271. Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, 273. North-east side of Plan. 

From the N. E. End of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, leadsstraight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima Annunziata_ theonly church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at 12;but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 P. M. On the right side of thePiazza is the Spedale degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed byBrunelleschi, and ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, withpretty terra-cotta figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centreof the square is an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I. , byBologna, in 1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The +Churchof the Annunziata+ was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria. At the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirablefrescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumptionby Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J.  Pontormo, 1516, pupilof A. Del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, 1513;a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next picture, anAdoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; a Nativity byA.  Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. Del Sarto; Children beingHealed by touching the Dress of the Servite Filippo Benizzi; a DeadChild recalled to life by touching the Bier of Filippo; the Cure of aWoman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by Lightning who had insultedFilippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By Rosselli: Filippo assumesthe habit of the Order. In the narthex is also the tomb of Andrea delSarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini. 

[Headnote: THE ANNUNZIATA--NARTHEX FRESCOES. SACRED PICTURE. ]

The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. Da S.  Gallo. Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between thewindows are almost all by C.  Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle arefive chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two shorttransepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with acupola painted by B.  Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right transept isthe tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately behind thehigh altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by B.  Agnolo (1543), isthe Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of Gian Bologna (d. 1608), whoconstructed this chapel for himself, and ornamented it with some of hisbest works. Under the organ in the second chapel is an Assumption byPerugino. In the third chapel is a Crucifixion by Stradano, his bestwork. In the fourth, a copy of Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day, ” byAllori. Next it, and to the left of the main entrance, is the chapel andshrine of the _Annunziata_, built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted byforty-one silver lamps and one gold lamp glittering among costlypolished stones. Over the altar is an Annunciation in fresco by PietroCavallini (d. 1364), said to have been done by angels. This picture isshown only once a year; but a duplicate of it, also by Cavallini, is inSan Marco, on the wall to the right on entering. Over the altar is an“Ecce Homo, ” by An. Del Sarto, in silver. Adjoining is the cloisterbuilt by S.  Pollaiolo. Over the door opening into the church is a “HolyFamily, ” by A. Del Sarto, a production in the highest style ofexcellence, called the Madonna del Saco, as Joseph is seen in thebackground seated on a sack. The other fresco paintings in the cloisterare by Poccetti, A.  Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650), all displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister isalso the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting theVirgin, ” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are byBronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito. 

[Headnote: S. MARCO--PICTURE-GALLERY. ]

By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to theAnnunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the +Church of S.  Marco+(standing from S. W. To N. E. ) We shall commence with _San Marco_, erectedin 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by Michelozzi. Interior. --Over centraldoor a “Crucifixion” by Giotto. First altar right, Thomas Aquinas beforethe Cross by S. Di Tito, and an Annunciation by P.  Cavallini (covered). Second altar, Madonna and Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Herea small door opens into the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue ofChrist by Novelli, and of S.  Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of thehigh altar is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito, Empoli, Poccetti, and Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel ofS.  Antonino, with frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and apainting by Bronzino. Between the second and third altars on this theleft side of the church, are the graves of the scholar Pico dellaMirandola, d. 1494; the poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and ofPoliziano, d. 1494, tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To theright of the main entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, ofSt. Mark. Open from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15thand 16th cent. This convent had for its superiors the good BishopAntonino (d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. GirolamoSavonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeodella Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in thisconvent. Among the very fine frescoes are--On the door of the church, left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth, ”B.  Angelico. On the end or S. E. Wall, “Crucifixion, ” with St. Dominic, B.  Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church opens into therefectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing food to St. Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L.  Credi. Above is a“Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in the south corner of theeast wall opens into the chapter-house, with a large fresco of theCrucifixion by B.  Angelico. A very famous work. The crucifix on the leftis by B.  Montelupo, and the other by his son. The door in the middle ofthe east wall gives access to the picture-gallery in the upper storey. At the foot of this stair is a grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo)by Ghirlandaio, who has dressed the company in the costume of thebrotherhood. From this ascend to the first floor to what were the cellsor rooms of the monks, ranged on each side of a narrow passageornamented with paintings in fresco. At the head of the stair is a verybeautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, and also by him, on theopposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the Cross. Opposite theCrucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells of the rightcorridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. Benedetto, and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, Fra. Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, bannersused for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by Benedetto. Inthe last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, Cosmo de’ Medici(Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait is by Pontormo, “The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the beautiful frescoby Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by Angelico. In thethird room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an “Adoration” and an“Annunciation. ” In the fourth, also by him, other two famous pictures onwood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the _Coronation of Mary_. Turningto the right we find all the cells (as far as that of Savonarola), withpaintings by Fra. Benedetto or some pupil of Angelico. In the middle ofthis corridor is the beautiful Madonna enthroned, an admirable work ofB.  Angelico. At the end, in a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on thewall by Fra. Bartolomeo: a Virgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. DellaRobbia; the bust of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled byBastianini; and a sketch of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In thetwo little cells at the side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preservedsome manuscripts, a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him;as also his portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of thePiazza della Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and hiscompanions. Proceeding along the corridor, in which there are no cellson the right for some distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto, the best being a “Coronation” in the third cell. 

[Headnote: ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS. ]

At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 ViaRicasoli, is the entrance to the +Academy of Fine Arts+. Open from 9till 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. Inthe vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. DellaRobbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew ofRobbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and ofthe Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in stucco, tothe right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, left hand, a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the large pictures, with 124 paintings, by the following artists: M.  Albertinelli, A. Allori, B.  Angelico, Spinello Aretino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti, F.  Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese, A.  Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, Credi, Curradi, C.  Dolci,  I. Empoli, Gen. Da Fabriano, A. And T.  Gaddi, R. Del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Ligozzi, Fra. F.  Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. Da Milano, Monaco, S.  P. Nelli, L. Di Niccolo, D.  Passignani, Perugino, F.  Pesellino, Fra. P. Da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C.  Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. DelSarto, L.  Signorelli, G.  A. Sogliani, A.  Squazelli, Santi di Tito, Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the Baptism of Christ, by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator was painted byLeonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. 115, byCigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the unearthlyexpression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for many hourswithout food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is followed by achamber communicating with the +Tribune+, built in 1875, for thecelebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael Angelo when 28 yearsof age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza della Signoria, where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door opens into theHall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The artists of alarge number are unknown. The others are by B.  Angelico, S. Aretino, M.  Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, B.  Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. DaBologna, S.  Botticelli, P. Di Buonaguida, A.  Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio, Bicci di Lorenzo, G.  Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of thesmall pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists alreadynamed, the most important being Fra. And B.  Angelico, who, with SandroBotticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di Credi, are better represented here than anywhere else. The most remarkable are41, “The Day of Judgment, ” by Fra. Angelico. 13, A “Nativity, ” by L. DiCredi; and 18, Portraits of two Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael orPerugino. Beyond this is a collection of original designs in a roomcalled the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, 10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19, Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani. 

From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei QuadriModerni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six rooms. The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister delloScalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. DelSarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in agood state of preservation. 

[Headnote: MOSAICS--GALLERIA DEI LAVORI IN PIETRE DURE. ]

Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, isthe entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from 10to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases, specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in themanufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied withexplanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble andalabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli, and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all forsale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerousestablishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic aresold here. 

THE PALACES OF FLORENCE. 

The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and gloomyaspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 to4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist ofcoarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, andcontributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plainwall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets, while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Nearthe main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a“cantina, ” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through, whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Thosethat sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have paintedover this niche “Vino é Olio. ” The empty bottle, with the money, havingbeen passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of thefirst range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated andbarred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice withbold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those ofthe smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of twodifferent forms--a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile nearlysemi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the intersticebetween the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the palaces is bya high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court surrounded by anarcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the higheststoreys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are decorated, andthe beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and gilded, andcontribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of thin bricks, either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or _spina di pesce_fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces contain collections ofworks of art open to the public on certain days. [Headnote: PALAZZOVECCHIO. ] Of these the best are--first, the +Palazzo Vecchio+, in thePiazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It issurmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding anexcellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomycourt, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi, substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet incircumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neatlittle fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the VillaCareggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, andkeep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where takefirst door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber, 170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540, who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceilingillustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to thesecond storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. Thelintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Salad’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the dooris a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Salad’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Romanhistory. It communicates with the Cappella S.  Bernardo, beautifullypainted in imitation of mosaic by R.  Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel of St. Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de Toledo, painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow passage), is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an adjoiningchamber painted by Poccetti. 

[Headnote: DANTE’S HOUSE. ]

North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the +ViaS.  Martino+, in which is a house with a marble slab over the door, bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighierinacque il Divino Poeta. ” --_Dante. _ He was married to Gemma inS.  Martino, a humble little church close by, in the +Via dei Magazzini+. The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in the PalazzoSalviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni delle BandeNere, and became the mother of Cosmo I. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO STROZZI--CORSINI--RICCARDI. ]

In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays from 11to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, rings, and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery on thefirst floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and comfortablyfurnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on a card. Thetwo most remarkable are--+Portrait+ of one of the ladies Strozzi byLeonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, “La Puttina, ” byTiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the PiazzaS.  Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column of Orientalgranite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to Cosmo I. By Pius IV. A short way down the Arno (see plan), at No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is thePalazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by G.  Silvani, staircase by Ferri. Thecollection of paintings, contained in twelve rooms, may be visited onTuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 ViaParione. 

Next to the church S. Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, isthe Prefettura della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the PalazzoRiccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of theMedicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, byCosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medicitill 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first rowof large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base, rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by theprojection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it iscomposed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and thesarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtainbeautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are theBiblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered withmost charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted bylamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from12. 30 till 2. 

Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the Churchof Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose theremains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the centreof the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The frescoes inthe cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by Giovanni andLigozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by Ghirlandaio. A littleway up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti is the HospitalS.  Giovanni di Dio, founded by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house inwhich he lived and died stood on the site of the present No. 21 BorgoOgnissanti. 

[Headnote: PARK OF FLORENCE--VILLA CAREGGI--PALAZZO TORRIGIANI. ]

At the west end of the town, near the +Porta Prato+, is the Cascine orPark of Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, muchfrequented in the afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes betweenthe Porta Prato and the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine isthe hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles north from therailway station by the Romito road is the Villa Careggi, built byMichelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which he died on August 1, 1464, as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th of April 1492. At the Pontealle Grazie, the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio, is the PalazzoTorrigiani, built by Baccio d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collectionof paintings, accompanied with catalogues. Open daily exceptingSaturdays and Sundays. 

FIESOLE. 

At the east side of the town, by the +Via Alfieri+ or +Pinti+, is theProtestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, thelatter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S.  Gallo. From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, themodern _Fiesole_, 3 miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, onthe summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail toFiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S.  Gallo itis an easy walk of about 2½ miles. See the excellent map of the environs(Dintorni) of Florence, published by the “Istituto TopograficoMilitare, ” 1 fr. Beyond the Porta S.  Gallo take the road leading up theleft or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the VillaPalmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this theroad ascends between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Conventof S.  Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The churchcontains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by Credi; a St. Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B.  Angelico. Near S.  Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many yearsby Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towardsthe Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesoleis rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, thebeautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi orSpence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and theplace in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. A short waybeyond, the road enters the Piazza of _Fiesole_ (pop. 11, 500. _Inns:_Locanda Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views andstone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling SMiniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of BishopSalutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. Thefrescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statueof St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. Theroad passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formedof huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, andsome of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is thecommencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of aFranciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church ofS.  Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble. 

[Headnote: S. SALVI--VENCIGLIATO--SETTIGNANO. ]

S. SALVI. VENCIGLIATO. SETTIGNANO. --1¼ mile east from the PortaS.  Croce, by the road following the railway, is S.  Salvi, containing aLast Supper, by A. Del Sarto, in the refectory. From S.  Salvi northwardsto the Via Settignano, which follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take theroad to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above itsunion with the Frassinaia, is the Castle of Vencigliato, founded in the10th cent. , 5 miles north-east from the Porta S.  Croce, and situated onthe summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restoredat the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from thepart of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, isSettignano, the birthplace of Michael Angelo. 

Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. Thewheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. Thestraw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposedfor sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought bythe plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited strawto the hatters. 

The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principallythe Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles aninferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made ofground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are verynourishing to those who can digest them. 

 Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See Map on page 199. )

 To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11, 000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east. Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr. , guide, 2 fr. , to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5½ miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. Per day, or for four at 20 fr. Per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena. 

[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ]

 A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher. Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton’s description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. Lines 131-159, it possesses that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a “woody theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than their tops” an occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled colours mixed, from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged hills, and the wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1 hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the villages of Poppi and Bibbiena. 

[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA. ]

 The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, a Calabrian anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, a lofty rock towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St. Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body, marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion. From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12, 000, whence rail either to Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful. 

+Florence+ is 291 m. S. E. From Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52frs. 95 c. ; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black’s _South France_, Easthalf, page 233. 

Florence is 196½ m. N. From Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto, and Orte. 8 hrs. By quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c. ; 2d class, 23frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. From Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, andPisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. By quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. 45 c. ; 2d class, 7 frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale. ” To the price given in theIndicatore the amount of the tax has to be added. 

[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI. ]

+Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti. +

 Distance, 103½ m. N. W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. Map, page 199. 

+Genoa. +--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at thebusy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. From Genoa and 2½ m. E. From Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valleyof the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels. Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives atBusalla, 14¼ m. N. From Genoa and 89¼ m. S. From Turin. Busalla issituated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft. ), on the crestwhich divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Herealso the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareousschists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has beenhitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnelat Arquata, 26 m. N. From Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia. 33½ m. N. From Genoa, and 70 m. S. From Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena, a town of 11, 000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15, 1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and theAustrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated andtheir general killed. Novi is 60 m. S. W. From Milan by Tortana, Voghera, and +Pavia+. 

[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA. ]

47¼ m. N. From Genoa and 56¼ m. S. E. From Turin is +Alessandria+, pop. 30, 000, 234¼ m. N. W. From Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja. See Black’s _South France_, East half. See map, page 199. 

 At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready. _Hotels:_ L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding 50, 000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34¾ m. E. From Turin, and 68¾ m. N. W. From Genoa, arrives at

[Headnote: ASTI. ]

 +Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins), a place of 18, 000 inhabitants. H. Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S.  Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent. , resting on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs. 

 From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. Above the stream. Farther W. , at Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82½ m. S. (page 183), and to Cuneo, 46½ m. S. W. (page 183). 

 Five miles S. From Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. Died in 1823. 

 For +Turin+, see Black’s _South France_, East half. Loop-line to Pinerolo, 23½ m. S. W. , and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. Farther west, in the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s _South France_, East half. 

+Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera. +

By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBÉRIEUX, CULOZ, AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuationof this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria(page 279). 

 +Part First. +--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second. +--MODANE TO TURIN, 58½ miles. Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min. 

 _Time-tables. _--In England, see under “London to Turin” in the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf. For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and from Macon to Turin, map, page 26. 

PART I. --PARIS TO MODANE. 

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{ }{431}+PARIS. + In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de LyonStation is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café Restaurant. A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good restaurant also in thestation. For the first 274 m. Between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. AtMontereau, 49½ m. From Paris (p.  10), the Express halts 4 min. ; but notthe Rapide. At La Roche (p.  14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5min. At Tonnerre (p.  17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p.  19)the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p.  20) both halt 6 min. At Macon(p.  26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from theMarseilles line, and goes 23 m. E. To Bourg, 297 m. From Paris. AtBourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg aloop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W. (See map, p.  27; and for description, Black’s _France_, North half). 5½ m. S. E. From Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village ofPont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Ambérieu+, 316¼ m. S. E. From Paris, and 114¾ m. N. W. From Modane. At Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min. , andthe Express 15 min. Ambérieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on theAlbarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail withLyon, 32½ m. West. From Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S. Through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with importantquarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhône. BetweenAmbérieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of theJura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. Base of Mt. Colombier, 4733 ft. , ascended in 4 hrs. Either from Culoz or Artemart. The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes ofBourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends toLyons and the mountains of Ardêche. 

[Headnote: LAGNIEU. ]

8 m. S. From Ambérieu and 3 m. N. From Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop. 3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3 m. S. W. , on south side ofRhône. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and alake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. Deep. It is easilyapproached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at theSalette station, 20 min. Walk from the entrance into the grotto. 

From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, afterSt. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S. E. From Ambérieu, becomes wild and imposing. At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4¼ m. Farther, the train quits the Albarineand traverses a sequestered valley to

[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ. ]

+Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S. E. From Paris, pop. 1100. Junction withloop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S. , pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, withimportant quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. From Paris and 19¼ m. N. From Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu. 

347½ m. S. E. From Paris, 14½ m. N. From Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N. From Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhône, about ¾ m. E. From the station, 771 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H. Folliet; H. Mémon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here. 41 m. N. E. Is Geneva; see Black’s _North France_, and map p.  26. 4½ m. S. From Culoz and 10 m. N. From Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft. Above the sea, on the N. E. Extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. Distant byrow-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent. , commanding a charming viewof the lake, Pope Celestin was born. 

Lake Bourget is 700 ft. Above the sea, 10 m. Long, from 2 to 3 m. Wide, and from 200 to 300 ft. Deep. The W. Side is bounded by the steep ridgeof Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat, 2070 ft. , and immediately to the S. A bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat, 5302 ft. , ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs. , after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over thelake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft. , one of thesummits of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. Side of the plainof Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about4 hrs. 

 The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad, carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel. 

[Headnote: AIX-LES-BAINS. HOTELS. CABS. ]

{362}{69}+AIX-LES-BAINS+, 850 ft. Above the sea, 1½ m. From Lake Bourget, pop. 6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extendingto the railway station. First-class hotels--their pension is from 12 to20 frs. , but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement. On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and theUnivers. Opposite are the H. De la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the_Hotels:_ *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the endof R. Du Casino, the H.  Genève. Second-class houses: in the parallelstreet, the R.  Genève, behind the R. Du Casino, are the H.  Durand;*Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H.  Poste. Opposite the H.  Poste isthe office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyonssteamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H. De l’Etablissement. In front, the H. De l’Arc Romain. To the left, inthe Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H.  Germain. A little beyond is the H.  Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, theH.  Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-classhouses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. Des Bergues. 

On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, a reallysplendid first-class house. Below it is the H.  Beau-Site, also a new buta smaller first-class house. 

The Port is nearly 2 m. From Aix by the R. De Genève, and then to theleft. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais. ”

Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behindthe H.  Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park. 

_Cabs or Fiacres. _--One-horse cab--3 frs. For the first hour; everysucceeding hour, 2 frs. ; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab--for first hour, 4 frs. ; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs. ; per day, 20 frs. Ridinghorses--two hours, 4 frs. Donkeys--one hour, 1 fr. ; half-day, 4 frs. 

[Headnote: SPRINGS. ]

The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted upfor the external application of the water, very little being drunk. Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behindthe establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°, 114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime, magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bathwith linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent. , with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit. ” Behind thearch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel deVille and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome stone stair offifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads upto the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor, just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens into what is called theTemple of Diana, a large rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recentlyrestored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc Romain, 9-12 frs. , the parishchurch, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphursprings, situated a little way out of town. 

The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. Abovethe sea, and 45 min. Distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Châteaude Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used forindigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngealaffections. 

Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral waterestablishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all withina large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromineand iodine, and costs 10 c. The glass. About 20 min. Walk from the townby the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring, frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastricdiseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach. 

[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. ]

+Excursions from Aix-les-Bains. +--The steamer on certain days makes thetour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chiefis the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and twomen, 9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs. ; Bonport, 4 frs. ; Châtillon, 14frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than sixpassengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake--one horse, 11 frs. ; two horses, 15 frs. 

The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent. , but rebuilt in1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft. Long, the transept 85 ft. , and the height of the roof 34 ft. Theinterior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft whitefine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, nearCuloz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King ofSardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), onthe right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are ofCarrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in theright-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; inthe left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed. 

About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of thelake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reachit continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut andhorse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. Thefountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are thevillage and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent. , over whichrises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p.  282). 

_Other Excursions. _--To the S. W. The Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft. , good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S. E. TheRoche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocherde St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours. The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft. , by mule-path;there and back, 6 hours. To the N. The cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes, 3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m. , the defile of the Combes andthe Prime rocks. To the N. N. W. The Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft. 

[Headnote: GROTTO OF BANGES. LE CHÂTELARD. ]

+Aix to the Grotto of Banges+, _by Gresy and Cusy_. -- Seat in car thereand back, 5 frs. About 3 m. From Aix is Gresy, with its prettywaterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz toan undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N. , ona rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. Onthe opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle ofSt. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singularobelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont deBanges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed inbetween the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte deBanges, containing a lake, 216 ft. Below the level of the entrance, approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites. 

This road may be continued to +Le Châtelard+, 1¾ hour from the bridge, 2500 ft. Above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. Thisis the capital of the “Pays des Beauges, ” occupying a plateau 13 m. Longand 8 m. Wide, traversed from S. E. To N. W. By the Chéran, and surroundedby steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and themanufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants, of whom there are 10, 000. Châtelard, in its social and geographicalposition, resembles Le Beage (p.  84). 

The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley whichseparates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of theBeauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft. , to the S. W. , and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S. ; while to the N. E. Is the Dent deNivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges. 

At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N. , whence adiligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. Farther N. By Brogny, Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p.  27). 

+Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail. +

 21½ m. By rail N. From Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. From Annecy, is +Lovagny+, the station to alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges” of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. Each, to visit the gorge, which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of Pfäffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. Long, and on an average 72 ft. Above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. High, and on an average 8 ft. Apart. 

 3½ m. Farther by rail is

 +Annecy+, pop. 11, 000. _Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office; Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake, and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie. 

 The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N. , passing the villages of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28 m. N. , on the road to Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320). 

 This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph, both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale, his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel. 

 The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire, entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel street, behind the Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the garden around the Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748. 

 The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. Long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. Above the sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft. Above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where there are a comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides. 

 Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. East from Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of his life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his last walk on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a little farther south, above the village of Veyrier. 

[Headnote: LESCHAUX. ]

 South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent. , of the hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard. In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is Semnoz, 4148 ft. Above the lake. The ascent is made from the straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. Above the lake, 10 m. S. From Annecy, and 14 m. N. E. From Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable inn. Duingt, at the S. W. End, is the most picturesquely situated village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p.  291. )

 3 m. N. From Annecy and 24 m. S. From Geneva is the village of Brogny, where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la Caille, 18 m. From Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge, 212 yds. Long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. Above the bed of the torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille. 

[Headnote: CRUSEILLES. ]

 16½ m. From Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. Above the sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586 ft. , and then descends to Chable. 10 m. Farther is St. Julien, 1535 ft. , pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. From Geneva. 

[Headnote: CHAMBERY. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{370¾}{60¼}+CHAMBERY+, pop. 20, 000, and 815 ft. Above the sea. Passengers arrivinglate should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed toTurin. _Hotels. _--Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain. France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe, near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite itis the Temple Protestant. 

+Chambery+ is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. Thefirst object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station isthe monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre, opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. Itconsists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with astatue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne isthe +Château+, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road roundfrom behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within theprecincts of the château is the Préfecture, having attached to it one ofthe old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to theMuseum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History Museum is in theBotanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, andoverlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite the tower is theChapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The three tallwindows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered withstone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between thenervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blueground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the14th, 15th, and 16th cents. 

[Headnote: CHURCH OF LEMENC. ]

The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue deBoigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palaisde Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is abronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill onthe other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de laVisitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is ofthe 13th or 14th cent. , but the under church or crypt is of the 7thcent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet indiameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upperChurch are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of SaintConcors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago. His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children. In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave ofMadame de Warrens. 

[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU. ]

 +Excursions. +--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. Above and 2 m. From Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame’s bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft. , ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs. ; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. To the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes (p. 284). 

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{376}{55}+LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by thechapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S. W. , 4 hrs. There andback, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed bya partial landslip of Mt. Granier. 

{378}{53}+MONTMÉLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line toGrenoble, for which change carriages (p.  338). 

[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY. ]

{358¼}{45¾}+ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1½ m. From itsstation. _Inns:_ At station: H. Des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche;Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N. E. , whence diligencesto Annecy, 28 m. N. , passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft. , and throughFaverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Mauriceon the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpinepasses (see p.  321). From St. Pierre take the N. Window of the carriageto have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareousrocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other. These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to thepretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which placesonly at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyardscease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft. , but patches with vines may beseen within 3 m. Of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivatedmore or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are toosteep and arid. 

[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE. ]

{332}{39}+AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. De la Poste. Village close to station. Archto Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen. 

{409}{22}+LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc. Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon. 

{414½}{16½}+SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc;Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent. , contains themausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. Thearcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452. In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and thesaline thermal springs of Echaillon. 

{421}{10}+ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. Above thesea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, nearthe post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The nextstation is La Praz, 6 m. From St. Michel, 3140 ft. Above the sea. 

[Headnote: MODANE. ]

{431}{ }+MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. Above the sea, and 727 m. From London, isreally part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Largerefreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ HôtelInternational, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well ascarriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back ofthe house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France andItaly is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage ischarged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day. The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. Above the station, and is reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m. , with a gradient of 2½ per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. Above the sea, and 5250 ft. Below the summit of the ridge perforated. 

 From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. Higher than Modane, in 7½ hrs. , by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs. , or a little over 5, by Bardonnecchia. 

[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES. ]

+Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis. +

 From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pass of Mont Cenis+ to Susa, 40 m. Distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8¾ m. From Modane is Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. Above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg, pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. Above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft. Above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13 m. From Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. Above the lake, which is 1¼ m. Long and 6234 ft. High, and contains good trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. From Susa and 29½ m. From Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. Farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069 ft. , on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more rapid. 4½ m. From Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about 3 m. More, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page 291). 

 [Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg. ]

+PART II. --MODANE TO TURIN. +

 See Map of Mont Cenis Railway. 

 miles from MODANE miles to TURIN

{ }{58½}+MODANE. + At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta ItaliaRailway Company. The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate, ” 1 fr. ; also a smaller edition, 20 c. , sold at all the railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W. -C’s. , Cessi, or Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare. Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata. 

{5}{53½}+BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft. , pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo dellaStazione, and in the town the Hôtel de France. Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile country than that above Modane. 

{12}{46½}+OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. High. _Inn:_ Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at thestation. At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S. W. By Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat. _, lib. Iii. Cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343). 

{21¾}{36¾}+CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views. 

{25½}{33}+MEANA+, 1 m. From Susa, and 325 ft. Above it. The train, havingtraversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives atBussoleno, 30½ m. From Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. Extends toSusa, 1625 ft. , pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil. This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft. Above the sea. On the W. Side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch erected about 8 B. C. In honour of Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the llth cent. 

 12 m. From Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. Above the sea and 1500 above the plain. On the summit is the convent of S.  Michele della Chiusa, founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S.  Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. Above the sea. 

TURIN, pop. 264, 000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. Above the sea, and490 m. S. E. From Paris. The city derives its name from the tribeTaurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans. When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that hemight have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedilyfrom its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve ofJulius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards itwas made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence ofQueen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S.  GiovanniBattista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I. So damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction becamenecessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass throughspacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsomearcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of theCorso Vittorio Emanuele II. And the streets ramifying southwards fromthis. 

_Hotels. _--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and lessexpensive, is the H. Di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood ofthe principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams. The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival sideof the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the ViaCarlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near theEnglish chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised byMessrs. Cook. The H.  Feder, 8 Via S.  Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Viadelle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive:H. *Suisse; H.  Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *Franceet Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via diPo; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the DoganaVecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange. 

_Cabs. _--One horse, from 6 A. M. Till midnight, the course, 1 fr. Firsthalf-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. Thecourse from midnight to 6 A. M. , 1¼ fr. From the central station to anypart of the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. Each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr. Additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to acab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railwaycarriage, 1 sou. 

 [Map: Turin]

Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams runfrom the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond thesuburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of thesteam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no morethan four may occupy one seat. 

[Headnote: STATIONS. POST OFFICE. BOOKSELLERS. ]

_Stations. _--The most important is the +Central Station+, a well-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet onthe departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and RobertStephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome CorsoVittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having atthe eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western themodel prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and thecattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimod’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helpedto throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or PiazzaCarlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to thePiazza Castello, by the Piazza S.  Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronzeequestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of EmanueleFiliberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of Carlo III. Il Buono. He died in1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at thewest end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P.  Castelloby the Via Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. Side ofplan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazzadello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, inthe shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. High, composed of huge blocks of unhewngranite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in whitemarble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slightermake, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni, and Grandi. 

_Post and telegraph offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by theside of the Palazzo Carignano (p.  297). Stamps are sold at all thetobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P.  Castello, and connectedwith the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and borderedon both sides with well-stocked shops. 

_Booksellers. _--For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. Forguide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via di Po. 

Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principalstreets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge inall of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. Thesame price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass. 

_Theatres. _--See list on plan. A short way east from the centralstation, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via PioQuinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue, a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas. 

[Headnote: SIGHTS. ]

_Sights. _--The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the“Accademia delle Scienze, ” with one side to the Piazza Carignano andanother to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is thePalazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogicalcollections. The white marble statue in front represents thephilosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the houseopposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II ConteCamillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi moriil 6 Giugno 1861. ” The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale ArmeriaAntica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the RoyalPalace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni. A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All theabove places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The onlyone that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the sidestreet,  V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram fromthe Piazza Castello. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO DELL’ ACCADEMIA. MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES. ]

+The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery. +

The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, wasbuilt in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vastearthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, andcornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the moremassive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the secondstory is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteenrooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days free, when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in twohalls. +Hall 1. + Left. In the centre, against the wall, under aninscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of thecollection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, Rameses II. , 1388 B. C. On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue ofAmenophis II. , 1565 B. C. , and on his left a small black basalt statue ofAmenophis II. , the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sittingposture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. Atthe head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II. , in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From this a roomramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts, friezes, vases, etc. 

Parallel to Hall 1 is +Hall 2+. At the head of this hall, in a sittingposture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III. , 1591 B. C. , who wasone of the most powerful of the Pharaohs. 

Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in threelarge halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left, is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a tablecovered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B. C. A little farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case, No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. Long by 2 ft. 2 in. Wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign ofHadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leadsto the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is acolossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easilywork the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, foundat Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenicianterracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancientiron ornaments, lamps, etc. 

The +Centre Hall+ contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi, mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by theIsraelites. 

In the +Third Hall+ are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No. 4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, +The Book of theDead+, 35 ft. Long and 8 in. Wide, illustrated with plain vignettes. Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of+Manetho+, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt downto the 19th dynasty. 

[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. ]

In the second story is the +Picture Gallery+. All the paintings arelabelled. In +Room 1+ are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy, and battles in which they were engaged. +Room 2. + In this room areexcellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St. Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descentfrom Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. +Rooms 3+ and +4+. Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90, a Landscape. +Room 5. + Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16thcents. : Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, Cosimo I. DeMedici. +Room 6. + J. Da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P.  Caliari(Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting gifts to Solomon;A.  Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J.  Robusti (IlTintoretto), 162, The Trinity. +Room 7. + Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni;Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8. + Enamels and paintings onporcelain by Constantin of Geneva. +Room 9. + A small room entirelyfilled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. +Room 10. + Continuationof the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents. : B.  Strozzi, 232, Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese, 234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236, Cupids; G.  Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G.  F. Barbieri(Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Returnof Prodigal Son. +Room 11. + A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, DucalPalace, Venice; F.  Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements;S.  Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C.  Dolce, 276, Head of Madonna; B.  Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; OldBridge across the Po. +Room 12. + Flemish and German school: Acken(Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G.  Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Vandes Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F.  Franck, 335, Room with Ladies andGentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. OfEngland; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch ofhis apotheosis of Henri IV. In the Uffici of Florence. +Room 13. +Containing the gems of the collection: A.  Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child, and Saints; L.  Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G.  F. Barbieri (Guercino), 357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of theWoman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, thefigures by A.  Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of thePrincipe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family;D.  Teniers, 364, Tavern; G.  Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost;Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and childin relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P.  Potter, 377, *Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. +Room14. + Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398, Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P.  P. Rubens, 416, Resurrection of Lazarus; C.  Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife;Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman. +Room 15. + French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483, Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Cataloguessold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery. 

[Headnote: PALAZZO CARIGNANO. ]

+Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy. +

Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is thePalazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick;but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing thanthose of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on thefaçade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are thewords, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II. ” Within is a high and spaciouscourt, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting thePiazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him byMarochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, builtin 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See alsop.  293. ) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological andmineralogical collections. Open daily, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-daysfree. 

[Headnote: ROYAL ARMOURY. ]

+Royal Armoury. +

No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. On otherdays procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of greatinterest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filledchiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first roomis “Favorito, ” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo Alberto. Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. Inthe large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At thehead of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed ovalshield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive goldthread. On five medallions are represented, in _alto-relievo_, scenesfrom the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school ofGiulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16thcent. , and was presented to the university of Turin by the PrincessVittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword wornby Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of Charles V. , and somebeautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door atthe end of this hall opens into the “Medagliere del Ré, ” containing30, 000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a completeseries of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca delRé, with 40, 000 vols. , 1800 MSS. , numerous autographs, engravings anddrawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must beobtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of thepalace-gardens. At the N. E. Angle of the Piazza Castello is the TeatroRegio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions. In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is aplain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the PiazzaCastello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance, turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glassdoor, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a nicheat the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse inmarble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights ofnarrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will befound who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr. ; party, 2 frs. After the guardroomsucceeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and richfurniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The roomcalled Maria Theresa’s contains some fine china vases. 

[Headnote: ROYAL PALACE. THE CATHEDRAL. ]

+The Cathedral. +

Adjoining the western end of the palace is the +Cathedral San GiovanniBattista+. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family. Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, isthe +Cappella del Sudario+ (open till 9 A. M. ), a circular chapel, separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa, near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of thestatues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, andeight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columnsof the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support sixarches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise sixsmaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola iscomposed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs risingfrom the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw lightin such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it theappearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with goldand silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before itat the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud(Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord whenhe laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marblemonuments of three kings of the house of Savoy--Em. Filiberto (ob. 1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; andAmedeo VIII. , first Duke of Savoy (ob. 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince, the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is thelovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em.  II. (ob. 1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the uppercorridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is +San Lorenzo+, designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, butit is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches. 

[Headnote: THE CASTELLO. ]

+The Castello. +

The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello waserected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when itbecame the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II. , Madama M.  G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of whomit has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat ofgovernment was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the greathall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, andanother part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina, ” whohere hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology. 

[Headnote: MUSEO CIVICO. ]

+Museo Civico. +

Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. Ofcelebrated Piedmontese. +2. + Water-colours, representing landscapes andhistorical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblongchased silver vase, 3 ft. And some inches in its greater diameter, and 2ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion’shead with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glassframe, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, a vase, and twoflower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presentedin 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the UnitedStates to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Genevaarbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution byhis widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, itneeds only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen. 

The rooms from +4+ to +11+ contain modern oil-paintings, some very good, and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among thebest are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion ofEulalia by E.  Franceschi. Second story. --Room +12+, Embroidery;+13+, Miniatures and illustrated MSS. ; +14+, Iron work; +15+, Carvingin wood and ivory--notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; +16+, Glass andmajolica; +17+, Italian porcelain; +18+, Busts; +19+, Smalloil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glassfrom 1300; +21+, Egyptian pottery; +22+, Pottery and stone age. 

[Headnote: VIA DI PO. UNIVERSITY. MADRE DI DIO. ]

+The Via di Po. +

The finest of the streets is the +Via di Po+, which extends from thePiazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza VittorioEmanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares, as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide andlofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk inall weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and thepavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on bothsides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also theUniversity, built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II. , but founded in 1404 bythe Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, anddirected by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4, contains 200, 000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Romanbas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between theVia di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ AccademiaAlbertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti. Open daily. Apply to the custodi. 

The +Piazza Vittorio Emanuele+ is 394 yards long and 121½ wide. Infront, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the GranMadre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, byBansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I. To Turinafter the fall of Napoleon. A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte)is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The roadup is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediatelyabove the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina, built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited byone of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name, “The Queen’s Vineyard. ” It is now a government school for the educationof children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge, is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its fourpavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of VictorAmadeus I. , daughter of Henri IV. Of France, and is now used as agovernment school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection ofminerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces, are topographically arranged. The +Botanical Garden+ belonging to theuniversity is also here. 

[Headnote: MONUMENT TO CAVOUR. ]

+Monuments. +

In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II. , a short way S. From Piazza Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for which hereceived £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes inbronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic. Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing thewords, “libera chiesa in libero stato. ” (See p.  294. ) The climate ofTurin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the westis the Piazza S.  Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto(see p.  293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brotherof V. Emanuele II. ) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to leadthe charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The pooranimal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seemsabout to breathe its last in an agony of suffering. 

A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta isthe Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo diCitta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erectedin 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of thecelebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King VictorEmanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano andVictor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze grouprepresenting Count Verde (Amadeus VI. ) over a fallen Saracen. Close tothis square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrustedwith beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. Fromthis the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing byon the left S.  Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S.  Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of theVirgin by Guercino. 

[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA. ]

Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +LaConsolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of threechurches built at different periods. On the principal altar is amiracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoiningwalls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliveranceseffected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most preciousCarrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively MariaTheresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit. Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attendedworship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In thesquare outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erectedin fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835. 

In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72ft. High, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of theecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the townswhich contributed to the monument. 

[Headnote: CEMETERY. ]

Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or CampoSanto of Turin. (See N. E. Corner of plan. ) It is badly kept and notworth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better. 

A little to the W. Of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is thecitadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is themonument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, spranga mine at the cost of his own life. 

[Headnote: LA SUPERGA. ]

+La Superga. +

Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; thetime-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold halfan hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tramruns down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I. , passes by thewestern end of the church, the “Great Mother of God, ” and descends bythe left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascentcommences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, andopened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Supergastation are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodiousrestaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it isprobable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on themain road to Turin. 

The Superga is situated 4½ m. N. E. From Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft. Above the Po, or 2146 ft. Above the sea, and cost £100, 000. It wascommenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. In 1717, and finished in 1731, tofulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over theFrench at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained theduchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara. 

Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will befound who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The firsthall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes. Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a whitemarble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments areworthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, CarloAlberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III. , 1701-1773;towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue;at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II. , the founder, 1666-1732. In anadjoining vault children under seven are buried. 

[Headnote: VIEWS. ]

From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the galleryoutside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the galleryround the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is wellseen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. Above the pavement of thechurch. 

The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from theoutside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain ofPiedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon isbounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side andMont Blanc on the other. 

[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES. ]

Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged intomilk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à laPiedmontese” or “à la fonduta, ” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeableaperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines ofPiedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red winewith a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and theNebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches longand a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of themis put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at verymany places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great dealof maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are importantsilk mills. 

Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S. , by Cavallermaggiore (see p.  153). Turin toGenoa, 103¼ m. S. E. , by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p.  279). Turinto Savona, 91¼ m. S. E. , by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p.  183, and map p.  27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S. E. , by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p.  309, and mapp.  199). 

THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES. 

 (See accompanying Map. )

The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendidtrout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants. 

The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼miles S. W. From Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S. W. FromTurin, and 10¾ m. N. E. From Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a steam tramruns 12 m. N. W. Up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the secondWaldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station isnear the railway station. 

Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S. , 2 frs. 15 c. And 1 fr. 55 c. , passing Osasco and Cavour. This tramstation is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station. 

The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of thehighroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt. They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but runneither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains. 

Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. And 58 m. S. By rail fromTurin. Mondoví, pop. 17, 000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tré Limoni d’Oro. Onone side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are theinn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from theriver. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of thehill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see p.  184). 

The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys ofPèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. Long from W. To E. By 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of theisolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25, 000. They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses wereconfined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spreadthemselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every yearto the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactorieshave been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influxof Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages whichup to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now alarger population of Romanists. 

 [Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Passes between France and Italy]

These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc. , intersected by long rows of vineson high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-woodedmountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The onlyhigh mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10, 185 ft. , betweenthe valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625ft. Above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12, 607 ft. , a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ Agnello orthe Col Traversette, 9680 ft. 

[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS. ]

The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. Side ofthe Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on theFrench side (pp.  344, 345), and, as there was constant communicationbetween them, French became the common language, as it is still in agreat measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravineshad escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome;albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayerto God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power ofpriests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal andvenial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation allthese were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvinadopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from “valle densa, ”contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The firstserious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigationof Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée IX. , Duke of Savoy. Byher representation Innocent VIII. In 1487 fulminated against theWaldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these hereticswere to be absolved from promises they had made, property wronglyobtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have acomplete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the FrenchVaudois commenced in the 13th cent. 

[Headnote: TORRE-PÈLLICE. ]

+Torre-Pèllice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. De l’Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pèllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S. W. Byrail from Turin, 10½ m. From Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. From the station ofLuserna-San Giovanni, pop. Of both places together, 4200. Luserna is aconsiderable town to the N. Of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo delBelvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village, with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico, ” and several elementary Protestantschools. 

Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valleyenclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are theWaldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school forgirls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraphoffice, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna theBaptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, anddye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted manyPiedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have madethe Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant. 

The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is drunkin the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of theAngrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. By the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360ft. , and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools. Pop. Of the district of Pramollo, 1350. 

[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX. ]

+Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges desPras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W. , 16 to 17 hrs. Walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. And 2½ hrs. Walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc. , there is nothing particular. Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718ft. , the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station, 5683 ft. , about 3½ hrs. From Bobbio, where provisions and accommodationmay be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col, 7576 ft. , 17 m. From Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commandinga splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearlylevel, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the trackjoins the char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abriés, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, seep.  344, and map p.  304. )

PINEROLO. 

23½ m. S. W. From Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. From Torre-Pèllice isPinerolo, 1237 ft. , pop. 19, 000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d’Or; Campana; Cannond’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazzad’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of thechief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, variouscolleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music. The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school forgirls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary. The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff ofdignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club. _Cabs_--the course, 1 fr. ; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c. ; each successivehalf-hour, 1 fr. 

[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D’ABRIÉS. ]

Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram toSaluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steamtram to Perosa, 12 m. N. W. From Pinerolo. +Perosa+, 2015 ft. , pop. 2400, _Inn:_ H.  National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junctionwith the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop. 760, with a Waldensian chapel and school. 

+Perosa to Mont Dauphin. +--There is a post-road up the Germanasca anddown the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing byPerrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S. W. From Perosa and on the S. Sideof the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N. E. From Mont Dauphin. (For MontDauphin, see p.  344. ) About 7 m. W. From Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop. 560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello. From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, andpassing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on theGermanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on theGormanasca, 4502 ft. , pop. Of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. Walk fromPerosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé toGiordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribbaseparates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. To the S. E. , andcontinues in a S. W. Direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés, 8677 ft. , frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. From Prali, and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs. (For Abriés and Mont Dauphin, see p.  344, and map, p.  304. )

[Headnote: FENESTRELLE. COL DE SESTRIÈRES. ]

+Perosa to Cesanne+, 28½ m. N. W. By the river Chisone, Fenestrelle, Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. Above Perosa is +Fenestrelle+, pop. 1120, _Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italianfortresses on the frontier. 7 m. From Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where thevalley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4½ m. Is Sestrières, “whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrières, a nearlylevel plain 2 m. Long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. Thedescent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossedto reach Cesanne, 8 m. From Sestrières” (Ball’s _Alps_, p.  36). (ForCesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under Briançon, p.  333, and mapp.  304. )

SALUZZO. 

+Saluzzo+ is 42¼ m. S. By rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. By steam tram fromthe same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. From Cuneo by steam tram, passingCavour, pop. Of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14 m. W. , fare 1½ fr. ; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S. W. , onthe Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr. , _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. 

The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and theTurin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram toPinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marblestatue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854. Saluzzo, pop. 18, 000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town ofconsiderable size, possessing great facilities for visiting variousplaces in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach. 

[Headnote: PAESANA. CRISSOLO. COL DE LA TRAVERSETTE. ]

+Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin+, 65½ m. W. By Paesana, Crissolo, Col de laTraversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in theevening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft. , with two fair inns, passingMartiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes verypicturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing. After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft. , the road reaches the sanctuary ofSan Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8 m. From Paesana, 4374 ft. Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft. , the highest village in the valley of the Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. Farther up is the cave, Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft. , in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases--the +Pian Fiorenza+, 6034 ft. , and the +Pian del Ré+, 6625 ft. , containing in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. A little to the S. W. Of the Pian del Ré is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la Traversette leads N. W. From the Pian del Ré through a hollow covered with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent commences. About 300 ft. Below the crest and 9564 ft. Above the sea is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. And about 4 hrs. Ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. Below the summit, is La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p.  344, and map p.  304; also Ball’s _Alps_, p. 22. )

CUNEO. 

54½ m. S. From Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. From Saluzzo by rail, is+Cuneo+, 1500 ft. , pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H.  Barra di Ferro; Albergo diSuperga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S. W. ; alsoto Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp.  182 and 279. )

 Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W. , by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte, Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182. )

+Turin to Florence. +

 291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d. 

 miles from TURIN miles to FLORENCE

{ }{291}+TURIN. + (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p.  280, andmap p.  199. )

{81}{210}+VOGHERA+, pop. 10, 000, on the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H.  Italia. Branch toPavia, 17 m. N. , and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station, Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9thJune 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days. 

[Headnote: PIACENZA. CATHEDRAL. ]

{117}{174}+PIACENZA+, pop. 36, 000, on the Po. _Hotels:_ S.  Marco; Italia; CroceBianca. _Cabs_--the course, 1 horse, 70 c. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. For thefirst hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. 80 c. 

In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ Cavalli, from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and hisson Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S.  Francesco, and on theother the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque +Palazzodel Comune+, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market. The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows. The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the +Cathedral+(1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior thearches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3daltar is a picture, by A.  Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is analtar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceilingfrescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. TheCoronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The +Cupola+ is divided intoeight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figuresof prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Beloware four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the cryptunder the church rests on 100 columns. S.  Antonino (the formercathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent. , and restored in 1562. Thecurious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relicsof the earlier edifice. At the W. End of the town is +Sa. Maria diCampagna+, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On the left of the chiefentrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1stchapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and theAdoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the“Marriage of St. Catharine, ” the faces being portraits of the Pordenonefamily, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St. Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments ofthe cupola; those in the pendentives are by B.  Gatti. The most highlydecorated church is _S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent. ), with an Ionicatrium. Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S.  Sisto. 

The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 byMargaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now thePrefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza isthe site of _Velleia_, a town which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which havebeen deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanationsfrom the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on theapplication of a flame. 

[Headnote: PARMA--MUSEUM. ]

{153}{138}+PARMA+, pop. 46, 000, on the Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; CroceBianca; Leone d’Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conqueredby the Romans 183 B. C. , is a neat clean town of modern appearance, surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is thePalazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo Farnese_, a largeunsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind thePiazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintingsbelonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum ofAntiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre, now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of DukeRanuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles andgrand public entertainments. 

_The Museum of Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms, of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleiaand Rome. Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid, ” in1st room. In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the“Tabula alimentaria, ” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to thesupport of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria Louisa, the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the samestaircase is the _Library_, with 150, 000 volumes, and some thousands ofMSS. , in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of whichis Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin. 

[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--CORREGGIO. ]

_The Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, andis open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but isremarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. Inselecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the paintersalphabetically to facilitate reference. 

 _Annibal Caracci. _--Pietá. _Lodovico Caracci. _--Funeral of the Virgin; the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da Conegliano. _--Two very good pictures. (+Correggio. +)--1. The Madonna della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. _The Madonna with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden--this is Correggio’s best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art. The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma. ) _Albert Durer. _--Man with a Skull. _Francesco Francia. _--Descent from the Cross; the Virgin enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most charming). _Garofalo. _--Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a landscape below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni. _--A Singing party. _Murillo. _--St. Jerome. _Parmegianino. _--The Marriage of St. Catharine (an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with a music book (marked “incerto” on the frame). _Fra Paola da Pistoia. _--Adoration of Magi. _Pordenone. _--Portrait of a Man with an open book. _Raffaello(?). _--Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a work of Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa. _--Landscape with Cattle. _Lionello Spada. _--Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine. _Spagnoletto. _--Twelve pictures of Saints. _B. Schidone. _--The Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John. _Vandyck. _--Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady. _Velasquez. _--Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other portraits ascribed to him). _L. Da Vinci. _--Sketch of a Female Head. _Zuccarelli. _--River Scene. 

_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other side ofthe river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called thePonte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style;but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords apleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo diGiardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of the town, nearthe citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is plantedwith trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town’s-people, both in carriages and on foot. 

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ]

By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the+Cathedral+, a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. Da Bisoni, 1281. In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs anelegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, paintedby G.  Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within thegreat door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, oneof Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ (1526-30), withfrescoes representing the _Assumption of the Virgin_, but they are in aruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son ofCorreggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini. In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at thefoot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B.  Gatti; and near it apoor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he wasarchdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported bythirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes ofthe 14th century, and intarsias by L.  Biancho. 

[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--S. GIOVANNI. ]

The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with fourdeeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers ofopen galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, thepinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below, combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its classin Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rudesculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting--old, but not of muchvalue. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble, and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protectedfrom the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which theParmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, andsupported by a marble lion. +S. Giovanni Evangelista+ (1510), a churchstanding near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the_frescoes painted by Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; theyrepresent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badlylighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in thecathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelistsand the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the gloryabove. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault ofthe sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept afresco of St. John. In the 1st chapel to the right of the principalentrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument ofSanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, byGiacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to theleft); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night, ” now atDresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of theentrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four subjects);and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with hisCross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In theadjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of twochildren by Correggio. 

[Headnote: S. PAOLO--CORREGGIO. ]

Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della Steccata_, from designs by F.  Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are byParmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and theVirtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar aCoronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. Thewooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good Madonna incorner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is thechurch of S.  Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent ofS.  Paolo+, now a school. In this small building are the best preservedworks of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the wallsand ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, orAmoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower orpiece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charminglyportrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is paintedover the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures ingrey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian isgenerally to be found in the picture-gallery. 

The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan, Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly usedin a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S. E. From Parma is +ReggioEmilia+ (pop. 24, 000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_--80 c. Thecourse; 1½ fr. The hour. _Sights_--Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto, born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went through sixteen editions inthe 16th cent. 9 m. N. E. Is Correggio, the birthplace of the greatpainter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa andback, 14 frs. 

[Headnote: MODENA. CATHEDRAL--DUCAL PALACE. ]

{185¼}{105¾}+MODENA+, pop. 31, 000. _Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Theiromnibuses await the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, 80 c. The course, 1 fr. 50 c. The hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. The course, 1 fr. 70 c. The hour. 

Modena (_Mutina_, Lat. ), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, is aclean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which servethe inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile. A canal connects the town with the Panaro, a tributary of the Po, bywhich means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained. 

The +Cathedral+, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Itsexterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal façadeis small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. Onthe side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columnsresting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low, and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for thesub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At theentrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-sizefigures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing theNativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as ifthey were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpitwith bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious oldbas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side ofthe choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in themale line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of the finest in Italy, 315feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the nameof Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. Atthe head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the +Ducal Palace+, animmense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls inthe upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open dailyfrom 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures, amongst which, though there are no _chefs d’œuvre_, are many good ones. The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards theend of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including fiveCorreggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and theDuke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. Intwo of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by theold masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto’smasterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked, but which the custode will open on application, are some interestingcabinets (one designed, it is said, by B.  Cellini, another of amber, a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory, majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a “Presepio, ” withnumerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver. 

The _Library_, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains about100, 000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS. Placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Romanand Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck atModena. In the suppressed convent of S.  Agostino, near the gate of thatname, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stoneobtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below thesurface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval tombs. In thechurch of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of theEntombment. M.  Angelo spoke very highly of this artist’s works. 

The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is opento the public daily from the early morning to the evening. 

[Headnote: BOLOGNA. ]

{208¼}{82¾}+BOLOGNA+, pop. 91, 000. _Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera;del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni;Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, the course, 75 c. ; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railwaystation, without luggage, 1 fr. 

Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plainnear the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting iscalled the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b. 1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) andAgostino, a man of erudition, who furnished the general plan of thepictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d. 1642), Domenichino (b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G. Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, d. 1666), Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b. 1628, d. 1719); beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in thevarious churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the“_Accademia delle Belle Arti_, ” situated at the north-east end of thetown, near the Porta S.  Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms ofthe first floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of theartists, and is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St. Cecilia, by Raphael. 

 The other best works are:--12. _Guercino_. --St. William; 13, St. Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. 26. _Bugiardini_. --Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino Caracci_. --Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest paintings; 35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_. --Virgin and Child, with Angels and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. _Lodovico Caracci_. --Assumption; 42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the Virgin and Child; 43. Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46. St. John the Baptist; 47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M. Desubleo_. --Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75. _Lavinia Fontana_. --St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. Francia_. --Virgin and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. Annunciation; 80. Virgin and Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are several other unnumbered pictures by this master on frames. 84. _Giacomo Francia_. --Virgin and Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. 89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an imitator of Raffaello). --Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da Cremona_--Descent from the Cross. . 134. _Guido_. --Madonna with the Protectors of Bologna; 135. Massacre of the Innocents; 136. Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried in processions); 139. Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. 152. _Raphael_. --ST. CECILIA, with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the instruments of secular music lie broken on the ground). This celebrated composition, painted in 1515, is well known from copies and engravings. 175. _Elisabetta Sirani_. --St. Anthony of Padua; 176. Madonna. 181. _L. Spada_. --Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183. _Tiarini_. --St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. _Perugino_. --Virgin and Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle Vite_. --Magdalene. 206. _Domenichino_. --Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary; 208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona (the same subject as that treated by Titian in a picture lately burnt at Venice). 212. _Unknown_. --Sleeping Child. 291. _Desubleo_. --St. John the Baptist. 292. _Innocenzio da Imola_. --Virgin and Saints. 294. _Bugiardini_. --Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da Foligno_). --Virgin and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius IX. )

[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--UNIVERSITY. ]

In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures. A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library. 

Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous, have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism, Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe Mezzofanti (d. 1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two languages. From the toweris a good view of the town. Attached to the University is a Museum ofAntiquities and a Library. The Geological Museum is in a separatebuilding. From the University, walking towards the leaning towers, wepass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see plan), the oratory ofSt. Cecilia, the church of S.  Giacomo, and (14) the PalazzoMaloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kindof watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages. 

 [Map: Bologna]

[Headnote: S. GIACOMO. ]

_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently restored. Inthe 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, the Virgin on aThrone, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in the8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, threepictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by PellegrinoTibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P.  Fontana. At the end ofthe church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, withFrancesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna, ” the lunette above by GiacomoFrancia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of the church, contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s Presentation inthe Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci. 

[Headnote: THE TWO TOWERS. ]

In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia andSt. Valerian, by F. And G.  Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. Duringthe French occupation they were considerably damaged. At thecommencement of the Strada Donato are the +Two Towers+ (28 in plan), seen from a great distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_, commenced in 1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, andascended by a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whencethere is the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in1110, is 139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers, the Mercato di Mezzo leads W. To the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with, on the S. Side, the church of S.  Petronio; on the N. , the Palazzo del’Podesta; on the E. , the Pal. Dei Banchi; and on the W. , the Pal. Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of variousbuildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adornedwith a statue of Neptune, by Bologna. 

[Headnote: S. PETRONIO. ]

+S. Petronio+, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, andin the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade areremarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). Inthe interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4thchapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’sgrisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windowsare said to be from M.  Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel, a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides, attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), who wasat once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile is overthis chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. On thefloor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in 1652. In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in the7th, a Madonna, by L.  Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, by Tiarini. Atthe southern end of the church is (29 in plan) the Biblioteca Comunale, in the building called the Archiginnasio Antico, originally theUniversity, before it was removed to its present edifice. Besides theLibrary, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a valuable Museum ofAntiquities. Between S.  Petronio and S.  Stefano are (17) the _Pal. DellaMercanzia_, the Chamber of Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the PalPepoli, 1344; and (9) the Casino. [Headnote: S. STEFANO. ] +SantoStefano+ is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and courts, onthe site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the Church of theCrucifix, so named from the old painting at the great altar. In the 1stchapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the 2d on the left St. Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small chapel into the circularchapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the tomb of St. Petronius, with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, considered to have healingvirtues. This building is thought to have been formerly the baptisteryof the next chapel (originally, perhaps, the principal chapel), dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small court, called theAtrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that at Jerusalem, wegain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which contains four marblecolumns said to have belonged to the temple of Isis, and some picturesby Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural paintings in thesanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in the subterraneanchapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown which is said toafford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After visiting a cloister, where the columns show much variety of form, we have made the completetour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, which are of greatinterest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano in the StradaMaggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see plan), 2, S. Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the celebratedcomposer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side is thechurch Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for itscollection of pictures. [Headnote: S.  BARTOLOMMEO. PAL. ZAMPIERI. S.  DOMENICO. GUIDO’S TOMB. ] _San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has somefine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an“Annunciation, ” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are byFranceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, byGuido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returnedfrom London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, ½ fr. ), althoughdeprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable frescoesby Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of _AiServi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In the 2dchapel left is a “Touch-me-not, ” by Albano; and in the 4th, a St. Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by Inno daImola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of+S. Domenico+, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and died. The church dates from the 12th cent. , but restored in the 18th. Interior--2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D.  Creti. Right ofsouth transept--the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. Dominic_, withhis sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. Di Pisa. Thegarlands and statuettes were by Nic. Di Barri (Arca), 1469. The kneelingangel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the sarcophagus, were byMichael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, with its bas-reliefsillustrating the life of the Saint, was not added until 1532, a work ofAlfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of the chapel is a fresco byGuercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic. The painting of the Saintburning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is by L.  Spada; that of theSaint recalling a Child to Life is by Tiarini. In a chapel on the rightside of the high altar is the Marriage of Saint Catharine, by FilippinoLippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the high altar is by Bart. Cesi. Inthe left transept should be noticed the tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and onthe wall a portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, considered here an accuratelikeness, though painted 100 years after the death of the saint. Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapelof the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave ofGuido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his favouritelady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the Caracci, executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the reredos of thealtar in this chapel. 

[Headnote: S. PIETRO. ]

Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S.  Pietro, rebuilt in 1605, containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the lastpainting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it. Near S.  Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1stchapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fineAlbani. N. E. From S.  Pietro is S.  Martino, 1217, restored. In the 1stchapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in the 5thchapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino; in thenext, a St. Jerome, by L.  Caracci; and in the chapel next the entrance, Madonna and Saints, by F.  Francia. Old monuments in the cloisters. Eastfrom the leaning-towers is S.  Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent. , and lately restored. At the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, byTiarini; in a large chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautifullandscape, by F.  Francia; and at the first altar in the body of thechapel on the left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner. 

ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA. 

Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the +Annunziata+. In the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures byL.  Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by LippoDalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and inthe sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia. 

[Headnote: MADONNA DI S. LUCA. THE CERTOSA. ]

Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonnadi S.  Luca+, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. It isapproached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond thegate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. This porticowas begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was finished. Thechurch derives its name from possessing a picture reputed to have beenpainted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed from thechurch. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a Carthusianconvent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, and thechains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom attached toeach. 

269¾ m. From Turin and 21¼ from Florence is Pistoja (see p.  231), and291 m. From Turin is Florence (see p.  233). 

+St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard. +

 (74 m. N. E. See Map, page 290. )

 miles from ST. PIERRE miles to COURMAYEUR

{ }{74}+ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+ (see p. 289), 15 m. S. E. From Chambery, and45½ m. N. W. From Modane. 

{14}{60}+ALBERTVILLE+, pop. 5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. Above the sea. _Inns:_ Million; Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville andAnnecy, 22 m.  N. 

{22}{52}+LA ROCHE CEVINS+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hiddenand sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. Beyondis the defile Pas de Briançon. 

{31}{43}+MOUTIERS+, pop. 2100, and 600 ft. Above the sea-level, on theconfluence of the Doron with the Isère. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. Onemile from the town is the Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200ft. At the base are the salt springs, utilised both by salt-works and abathing establishment. From Moutiers the road extends up a narrow andpicturesque defile, following the course of the Isère, past St. Marcel, pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock called the Detroit duCiel, 945 ft. Above the bed of the river, where the valley is only 145ft. Wide; and after this enters a rich plain with the village ofCentron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, 8375 ft. , commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of Villette, pop. 500, we reach

[Headnote: AIME. ]

{41}{33}+AIME+, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. Above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St. Bernard. This, the “Forum Claudii et Axuma, ” possesses remains ofextensive Roman fortifications, and a very ancient church called St. Martin, built of stones from Roman buildings. 4 m. Beyond is Bellentre, pop. 1100, on the Isere, where the culture of the vine ceases. The Passof the Little St. Bernard comes into view. 

{50}{24}+BOURG ST. MAURICE+, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. Above the sea. _Inns:_Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near theconfluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet. 

[Headnote: SEEZ. ]

{52}{22}+SEEZ+, the ancient Sextum, a pretty village between six mountains, pop. 2600, and 2985 ft. Above the sea-level. From Seez the road passes thevillage of Villard-Dessus, and then crosses the Recluse by a loftybridge near an escarpment of gypsum, called the Roche Blanche, supposedto be the place noticed by Polybius, where Hannibal posted himself toprotect his cavalry and beasts of burden. 3 m. Beyond is St. Germain;the last inhabited village during the winter. From St. Germain theascent is easy to the

{58½}{15½}+HOSPICE+, 7077 ft. , founded by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassyplain 3 m. Long, and about a mile from the summit (7193 ft. ), indicatedby the Colonne de Joux, Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. High, of Cipolinomarble. From the Hospice, Mont Belvidere, 10, 093 ft, may be ascended. About 300 paces from the column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of acircle of large stones lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said tohave held a council of war, 218 B. C. A few miles below are Cantine desEaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, a hamlet, 4685 ft. Above thesea-level, 9 m. From Courmayeur. 

[Headnote: PRÉ ST. DIDIER. ]

{70}{4}+PRÉ ST. DIDIER+, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion. Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See map, p.  290. )

{74}{ }+COURMAYEUR+, 4211 ft. , the highest considerable village in the valleyof Aosta. _Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coachleaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs. ; time, 5 hrs. Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers everysummer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood andfor the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters, which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe aresulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourablecircumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest inthe Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur--the road toAosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col duGéant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St. Bernard. 

+Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble. +

 From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m. , and Modane to Turin 50 m. Farther. This is the route to take for the Baths of Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for Grenoble, which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux and the other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places are Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble. 

 (Map, page 304. )

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{ }{476}+PARIS. + Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon, where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons followpp.  1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to. 

{318}{158}+LYONS. + Perrache station. (See p. 29. )

{325½}{150½}+ST. PRIEST+, pop. 2800. In the old castle here Charles VII. Confinedhis son Louis XI. , then the Dauphin. 

[Headnote: BOURGOIN. ]

{344}{132}+BOURGOIN+, pop. 5200. _Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16, 000 acresof bog, producing large quantities of peat. 10 m. Farther is LaTour-du-Pin, pop. 3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre. 

{358}{118}+ST. ANDRE-LE-GAZ. + A coach at this station awaits passengers forChambery, 32 m. E. , passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse maybe visited. 

[Headnote: VIRIEU. ]

{363}{113}+VIRIEU+, pop. 2000. With a large old 14th and 16th cent. Castle, ingood preservation, containing tapestry and portraits, 16th cent. 

[Headnote: CHABONS. ]

{368}{108}+CHABONS+, pop. 2000. 5 m. Distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. Long and 160 ft. Deep, surrounded by wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. Endof the lake is Paladru, pop. 1000. 

[Headnote: RIVES. ]

{371}{105}+RIVES+, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ Poste. Situated about 1 m. From the station, on the Fure. It has some of the largest paper-mills in France, as wellas some considerable forges. A great proportion of the inhabitantsemploy themselves in the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. Theparish church was built in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of thecastle of Châteaubourg, destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line fromRives to St. Rambert, 35 m. W. , on the Lyons and Marseilles line (seepage 43). 

[Headnote: VOIRON. ]

{378}{98}+VOIRON+, 939 ft. , pop. 12, 000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coachesand gigs await passengers for the +Grande Chartreuse+, 15 m. Distant bythe village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. From Voiron and 6 fromthe Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy town on the riverMorge, with important silk, linen, and cloth manufactories. Here themonks of the Grande Chartreuse have large premises for the sale of theirfamous cordials, which they distil, not in the monastery itself, but ina large building a little beyond St. Laurent. The road from Voiron tothe Grande Chartreuse joins the road from Voreppe just before reachingthe village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, distant from both stations 9 m. , 1344 ft. , pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent wepass on our right the distillery of the monks, and then ascend by anarrow gorge, among fine woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent, consisting of an immense square building, garnished with pavilions, situated on a narrow plateau 3200 ft. Above the sea-level, at the baseof the Grand Som, which towers 3460 ft. Higher, easily ascended fromthis place in about 3 hrs. This monastery, the head establishment of theCarthusian friars, was founded by St. Bruno, the originator of theorder, in 1084. At first it consisted only of a small chapel, with sixpoor cells, the habitations of St. Bruno and his followers, built inwhat was then an almost inaccessible spot among rocks and forests. 

The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each providedwith a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a smallgarden. They pray 3 hrs. Every day, the rest of their time beingoccupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of thehandicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simplevegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. Walk in thesurrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and onfeast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. Animalfood and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 A. M. They attend mass, excepting on Sundays, when the hour is 8 A. M. Vespers are said at 4P. M. , and matins at a quarter to 12 midnight. Visitors who wish to seethe monks should endeavour to be at the chapel-door at any of thesehours. For gentlemen guests there is ample accommodation in the convent, clean beds, three large dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellentwater. The men-servants, of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story;the wives, however, of these servants, not being allowed to enter theconvent, dwell in a house a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is inthis house also that ladies who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as nofemale is allowed to enter the monastery. 

Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs theydistil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail atVoiron, at the following prices:--Liqueur verte, 8 frs. The litrebottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs. ; liqueur blanche, 4 frs. 

From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft. , inabout 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour beforecommencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St. Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from thetop, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S. , 5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. Per day. 

[Headnote: MOIRANS. ]

{381½}{94½}+MOIRANS+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. De Paris. Junction with branch line toValence, 50 m. S. W. , passing, at about half-way, +St. Marcellin+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily tothe picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S. , whenceanother coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. (For Die, see p.  47. )

[Headnote: VOREPPE. ]

{385}{91}+VOREPPE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreusemay alight here also, from which it is 15 m. Distant. 

[Headnote: GRENOBLE. ]

{394}{82}+GRENOBLE+, pop. 46, 000, and 702 ft. Above the sea, beautifully situatedon the Isère, by far the greater part being on the left bank, while onthe other there is a mere strip hemmed in between the river and thesteep declivities of the Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the*Monnet; Europe; the two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, inthe Rue Montorge, is the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercialtravellers. Napoleon I. On his way from Elba lodged in this house fromthe 7th to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room No. 9. Among the cheapersecond-class houses are the H. Des Alpes; Marseille; *Bayard; all neareach other and to the Place Grenette. Of the small houses at thestation, the best is the H.  Savoie. Temple Protestant at the W. End ofthe Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions for a very small sum may betaken to all the important places in the neighbourhood by means of therail and the diligences and omnibuses which start from the PlaceGrenette. On the road to the railway station is a large and handsomehospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. Hugues. A little way down, onthe other side of the river, is the Esplanade, a very large oblongsquare, 430 yards by 120, surrounded by trees, much frequented onfeast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de Ville, off the PlaceGrenette. 

[Headnote: COACHES. BASTILE. BAYARD. ST. ANDRÉ. ]

From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey, Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P.  Notre Dame for Domene and Gières;from the P.  Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs. , fare 5 frs. ;also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs. , 7 hrs. 

The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit ofthe Bastile, 915 ft. Above the river. To reach it cross the river by thebridge highest up, then ascend by the first road to the left in thevillage of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After numerous windings by abullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side of the mountain exposedto the S. , a square house is attained on the plateau behind the fort. The view is magnificent, but it is still better from the peakimmediately above, where there is one of the quarries of argillaceoussiliceous limestone, extensively used for making cement. Ascend eitherby the continuation of the same bullock-road or by the steep footpath. The isolated mountain, so prominent from the village of La Tronche, isMt. Eynard, 4846 ft. Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all thatremains of its early history are some fragments of the walls built byDiocletian. The most interesting of the buildings is the Palais desDauphins, now the Palais de Justice. In the square in front is a bronzestatue of Bayard, one of the most illustrious heroes of a chivalrousage, esteemed by his contemporaries the model of soldiers and of men ofhonour. Born in 1476 at the neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he diedat Rebecq on the 30th April 1524 from wounds received at the battle ofRomagnane, and was buried in the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. FromGrenoble, whence in 1823 his ashes were removed to the church of St. André and deposited in the tomb in the N. Transept. +St. André+, foundedin the 13th cent. , was the private chapel of the Dauphins. From theintersection of the transepts rises a fine tower, terminating with asteeple 183 ft. High. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, fronting thepromenade. The tower of the 12th cent, attached to the Hôtel de Villestands on foundations laid by Diocletian. 

[Headnote: LIBRARY. ]

E. By the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th tothe 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone tabernacle, and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th cent. At theS. End of the town are the best streets and houses, the Place de laConstitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture occupies theentire S. Side of the “Place. ” Behind are the Botanic Gardens and theNatural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a handsome building, are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. On the E. Side arethe Artillery School and a large handsome edifice containing the publiclibrary and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. Long and 156 ft. Wide, and cost £67, 585. +The Library+, open every day except Monday, contains150, 000 vols. And nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a comfortablereading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. Long and 44 ft. Wide, is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted by handsomecupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed richly-illuminatedmanuscripts, while down the centre are other glass cases containingmedals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric times. Among theMSS. Is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by Raoul de Sestre in1377 by order of Charles V. ; also a New Testament, 12th cent. , andanother in Vaudois, 13th cent. 

 [Map: The French Waldensian Valleys]

[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. MUSEUM. ]

The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains 550paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the largestand contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artistsare:--Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine, Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino, Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes, C.  Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink, Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, ClaudeGellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E.  Hebert, Heusch, Holbeina, Jordaens, Jouvenet, G.  Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, Licinio, Maltais Le, G.  Manni, Massé, Meulen, P.  Mignard, Millet, Monnayer, Montessuy, Moor, J.  Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, Perugino, Piombo, Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, Ruisdael, Rysbraek, Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, D.  Teniers, Terburg, Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, Van den Veldt, Van Loo, P.  Vannucci, Verelst, P.  Veronese, Vos. Off the last room of the picturegallery is a chamber containing the busts and portraits of the mostfamous Dauphinois. Round the room are the Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. ToVI. , Jean I. And II. , Humbert I. And II. --Bayard, 1476-1524;Lesdiguières, 1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780;Champollion, 1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuableantique furniture, porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; alsoone of those models of the Bastile which were distributed among theeighty-three departments of France after the fall of that stronghold ofdespotism on the 14th of July 1790. On one side of the picture galleryis the Rue Lesdiguières leading to the Temple Protestant. On the way ispassed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the Museum ofMineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the museumconsists in the well-arranged collection of specimens illustrating theorganic and inorganic products of this part of the Alps. The birds andores are well represented. Near the gate leading out to La Tronche isthe church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th cent. , is supportedon twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 ft. High. 

[Headnote: MANUFACTURES. ]

Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble, representing a value of £1, 600, 000. The material is given out to theworkmen, both men and women, upwards of 25, 000, who make it into glovesin their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture ofGrenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline. Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department. The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not wellselected. 

Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N. , for 2 frs. Returns nextday at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p.  341), passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on theRoman road and the Durance. 7½ m. N. E. Are the ruins of N. D. De Chardavan, in a narrow valley. 1¼ m. N. E. Is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, and strata of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead ore. 

[Headnote: SASSENAGE. ]

 3¾ m. N. From Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses start from the Place Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez omnibuses leave their passengers at the entrance into the town near the H. Faure, but the Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the “Place” and stop before the inn *H. Du Commerce. To the left of the inn is the house of the guide for Les Cuves, whose services are necessary to be able to cross the Furon and the torrent from the Cuves. This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and Sassenage itself makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense number of small vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac; whence it is a very pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. To Sassenage. The suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of this kind constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains it is supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots. The gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of limestone strata of great thickness, much valued for building purposes. The path to the Cuves commences at the left side (approaching) of the H. Du Commerce, and, having passed through a doorway, enters a kind of park and ascends by the right side of the Furon. About 1½ m. Up is a great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks as if it had been made artificially, out of which rushes a copious stream of pure water. After crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of a little more than 150 ft. To an enormous vault, within which are two caves, called Les Cuves, out of each of which rushes a great volume of water, which united passes under the cavern below called the Four des Fées. After this two or three beautiful cascades, quite near, are visited, and the Furon is crossed and the return made by the left side of this most picturesque river. From the Cuves side is seen part of the ruins of the old castle of the Berangers, to which a series of steps leads up, commencing near the mills, left bank. Their modern castle, built in the 17th cent. , stands within a large park adjoining the village. The large halls are furnished with antique furniture and hung with paintings, a large proportion being family and historical portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and marchioness are hung with old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese is made in the mountains around Villard and Lans, some miles to the south of Grenoble. The general quality is not so good as formerly, as more of the cream now is used for making butter. 

[Headnote: GRENOBLE TO BRIANÇON. ]

 +Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans+ and the Col de Lautaret (see map p.  304). Distance, 69 m. E. Diligence daily. When there is much snow, the Col is passed on sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs. , according to the state of the road. Fare, 16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from Briançon to Grenoble stops several hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a good plan to alight there for the night. This magnificent mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. In 1804, opened in 1842, and finished in 1868, makes a charming walking excursion; while from almost every village grand mountain tours may be made. Bourg d’Oisans, with a comfortable inn, the H. De France, makes capital quarters. There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, H. D’Europe; La Grave, H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le Monètier, H.  Alliey, and even in the Hospice itself on the top of the Pass, where beds and food may be had at most reasonable charges. 

[Headnote: CLAIX. VIZILLE. SÉCHILIENNE. ]

 5 m. From Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. De France, with a bridge across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. And 53 ft. Above the river, built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. Farther S. By a road between poplars is +Vizille+, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert; Lion d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the station. A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between high mountains. 15 m. From Grenoble is +Séchilienne+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Petit Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of one street, magnificently situated, 1182 ft. Above the sea, in the valley of the Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above each other. To the S. Is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft. , ascended from Séchilienne in about 6 hrs. In 1½ hr. The hamlet of La Morte is reached, whence the ascent lies through pastures and pine woods to some steep rocks. The track then, leaving on the right a small tarn, keeps along the base of the rocks to an abandoned mine, where it runs along the ridge called the Arete de Brouffier, overlooking the valley of the Combe de Valloire on the right and the Combe de Gavet on the left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, usually covered with snow; whence a second ridge leads up to the highest peak. 

 From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of Riouperoux, in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought down by the terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated the plain from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. From Grenoble is the hamlet of Livet at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its junction with the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and the argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de l’Infernet, 8184 ft. , at the entrance to the defile leading up to the Bella Donna. 

[Headnote: BOURG D’OISANS. ]

 29 m. From Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon remains at the Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey here and start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche, surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000 ft. High, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded with houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. May be made to Lac Blanc, 6170 ft. Above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. Long and 110 yds. Wide, and commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due N. In 3 hrs. By the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr. Farther is Lake Blanc. 

[Headnote: ROAD TO THE ECRINS. ]

 Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7½ m. , St. Christophe 13 m. , and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave the narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the prolongation of the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; _Inn:_ Paquet, on an elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure and noble walnut woods, on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly opposite Venose are the green pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, 8300 ft. As the tributary valleys do not join the principal valley at common level, but are considerably higher, a waterfall, often of great beauty, almost invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. In ascending the valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes narrower, the rounded forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly left, and, the torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, a very short distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. A mountain on the right hand has at some remote time crumbled into fragments and literally filled the valley from side to side with a colossal heap of ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path practicable for mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with excessive commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was unable to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three carriages to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, harmonising with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the romantic village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few houses perched on a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of the beautiful cascades. [Headnote: ST. CHRISTOPHE. LA BERARDE. ] Not much farther on, the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of a rough hill to +St. Christophe+, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du Diable. 2 hrs. Farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages, commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light, is comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the scenery of the Allée Blanche. +La Berarde+, which is placed in the midst of this savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a small chapel distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation ceases just at the village; a few stunted pines are found still higher up, but there is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose. This excessive sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of Dauphiné. The village of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft. , that of St. Christophe is 4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character of the scenery is, like that of Switzerland, at a greater elevation. The unbroken rocky surfaces deceive the eye to such an extent that it is difficult to realise the enormous scale of these mountains. To ascertain their height we must attempt to mount them, and even then the eye has some difficulty to submit to the testimony of the limbs. The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is extremely dangerous. Mont Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde, but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p.  304). 

[Headnote: LE FRENEY. ]

+Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon. +

 After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the side of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. From Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble is +Le Freney+, 3085 ft. , pop. 900; _Inn:_ H.  Europe, with mines up in the mountains but of difficult access. It is in these mines that the crystals and the species of quartz containing gold are found, for which the Dauphiné is so celebrated among mineralogists. 

 2 m. Farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with a small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret is passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a soaring peak. About 3½ m. Farther up, near the hamlet of Les Freaux, a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a precipice of granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. From Grenoble and 24 m. From Briançon is

[Headnote: LA GRAVE. COL DE LAUTARET. ]

 +La Grave+, 5000 ft. ; _Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope rising from the road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs containing copper mines, and opposite, on the other side of the river, the great glacier which streams from the summit of the Meije, 13, 080 ft. To the E. Of the Meije is the Bec de l’Homme, 11, 372 ft. , with a smaller glacier. The ridge called La Meije runs from E. S. E. To W. N. W. , and is crowned by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest or western aiguille must be made from the northern side. The view of this mountain from the village of La Grave can hardly be praised too highly; it is one of the very finest road views in the Alps, and one cannot speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices. The perpendicular cliff, extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the summit of the Meije, is about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads through a bleak region and several tunnels to Villard d’Arene, 4½ m. From La Grave and 32 from Briançon, a miserable hamlet, considerably under the high road, at the foot of the Bec de l’Homme. 

[Headnote: LE CASSET. ]

 51¾ m. E. From Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. From Briançon is the +Hospice of the Col de Lautaret+, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft. , where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two diligences pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it is 11 kilomètres (6⅘ m. ) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m. ) from Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of Malaval and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi, 13, 081 ft. Above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche descends to Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon. From the Hospice the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a mine of anthracite coal not far from the village of Lauzet. The discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long and inclement. 2½ m. From Lauzet and considerably below the road is the hamlet of Le Casset, at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10, 136 ft. , at the entrance to the ravine of the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great glaciers which spread themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont Pelvoux. When the snow is melted the effect of the sun upon them is splendid. 60 m. From Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is

[Headnote: LE MONÈTIER. BRIANÇON. ]

 +Le Monètier de Briançon+, 4898 ft. Above the sea, surrounded with barley-fields, pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St. Marguerite, 8328 ft. , which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux group. Horses changed here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment, with hot sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes the villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft. ; La Salle, with cloth and night-cap manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. From Briançon and 4299 ft. Above the sea. 69 m. E. From Grenoble is

 +Briançon+, 4335 ft. , pop. 6000. _Inn:_ H. De la Paix. Temple Protestant. The Brigantium of the Romans, and now a fortified town of the first class, with eight strong fortresses, which guard this important entrance into France from Italy. The town stands on the steep sides of an eminence rising vertically from the Durance, here a roaring mountain torrent hemmed in between the cliffs of the Mont Infernet, with strong forts on all the salient points up to the very summit, 7810 ft. Above the sea. At this part the Durance is spanned by a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. Wide and 108 ft. Above the river, erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On the right side of the river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and opposite, on the left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the largest of the forts. The views from them are very extensive, especially from the fort Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to visit the forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building down the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. Catherine, is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded and prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn 14d. Per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 P. M. , 1½ hr. Allowed for meals. The longitudinal streets of Briançon are narrow and steep, little better than staircases, down the centre of each of which runs a stream of water in a marble gutter, with such an impulse that all manner of garbage thrown into it quickly disappears. At the foot of Briançon is the fertile valley formed by the union of the Guisanne with the Durance, surrounded by carefully-cultivated mountains studded with villages. All the Briançon coaches start from the Place du Temple, in front of the church. “The neighbourhood of Briançon abounds in rare plants. Amongst them may be mentioned Astragalus austriacus and A. Vesicarius, Oxytropus Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium Imperati, Brassica repanda, Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace septentrionalis, and Bulbocodium vernum. ” --Ball’s _Western Alps_. 

[Headnote: VAL LOUISE. GRAND PELVOUX. ]

 The great excursion from Briançon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group, whose highest peak is 12, 975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road extends by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft. , whence a path ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The +Ville de Val Louise+ lies near the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the principal branch of the Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching up to the foot of the monarch of the group, the +Grand Pelvoux+ itself, which, although at no great distance, cannot be seen from the village on account of the hill which rises immediately behind. (See p.  345, and map p. 304. )

[Headnote: CESANNE. ]

 +Briançon to Oulx+, 17 m. N. E. By diligence, 4 hrs. , 7 frs. , by a beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans, is the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house, 6476 ft. Above the sea or 2141 ft. Above Briançon, and 7 m. From it and 10 m. From Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost 25 m. From Susa (p.  291). A few yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and which commemorates in French, Latin, and Italian the opening of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I. , and its restoration or rather repair in 1835. 5 m. Farther is +Cesanne+, at the confluence of the Dora with the Ripa, 4420 ft. , or nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian custom-house. _Inn:_ Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. A post-road leads from Cesanne to Perosa, 28 m. E. (p.  307). 5 m. From Cesanne is Oulx, 3514 ft. , with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p.  291. From Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291. ) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms a pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably shortened on the French side by following the footpath. 

 Grenoble to Gap by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes only the length of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence for Gap. 

+Grenoble to Corps. +

 By diligence, 39½ m. S. , 9 hrs. , 9 frs. , by a very beautiful road. From Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the railway and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp.  328 and 345), and thence in another straight line between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. Farther. Coach from Vizille to La Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence takes nine horses, and having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the flanks of Mont Conex in 2 hrs. To the village of La Frey or Laffrey, 2000 ft. Above, and 4½ m. From Vizille, and 15 from Grenoble, in a cold situation on the top of this pass, about 3000 ft. Above the sea; the horses are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On this plateau, immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050 ft. Above the sea, 2 m. Long and 875 yards wide. At its S. End is the village of the Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To the right or west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite coalmines, some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The diligence next passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. From Grenoble, a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 

[Headnote: LA MURE. CORPS. ]

 23¾ m. S. From Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. From Gap is +La Mure+, 2860 ft. , pop. 3800, the largest town on the road, with the ancient castle of Beaumont, nail manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans, 3½ m. Distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next village, is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the edges of high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the Bonne, which it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is exactly half-way between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. From each, and 8½ m. From Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge of La Salette, arrives at

 +Corps+, 39½ m. From Grenoble, on a plateau 814 ft. Above the confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, or 3156 ft. Above the sea. Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next each other. Mules for La Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. The seat, or 15 frs. The whole. La Salette is 5½ m. From Corps, and 2750 ft. Above it, by a wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It is better to descend on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very picturesque, and, like all the journeys among the mountains of the department of Isère, of great interest to the botanist and geologist. The inhabitants of these mountains wander in winter to distant parts selling their plants, bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most justly famous liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, Grenoble, and elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, one of the best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of which the black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated. 

[Headnote: CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA SALETTE. ]

LA SALETTE. 

 This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. Himself. The church, a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished marble, is 146 ft. Long and 49 ft. Wide, and 60 ft. High, inside measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The pulpit was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three doorways, has on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses, which were very great in a region of such difficult access, and where winter lasts six months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions. Opposite the façade are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the gift of a Spaniard, representing the events of the story. On the south side of the choir a door opens into the large and spacious building occupied by the nuns, and on the north side another door opens into a similar building occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in each is exactly the same. The pension price, including wine and everything else, is 5½ frs. Per day. Visitors can have a good meat breakfast for 1½ fr. , dinner 2½ frs. , supper 2 frs. , a bowl of café au lait ½ fr. , a cup of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are very obliging. Books approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in the “magasin” of the establishment, giving the history of the apparition, from which the following is extracted:-- “On the 19th of September 1846, at 2. 30 P. M. , was seen by a girl and a boy in the place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone shedding tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 ft. In diameter and 2½ ft. Deep, a little to her left, to flow forth freely. Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called the miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children in the path between the railings indicate the place where they were standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I have taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts cannot swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are the two things which make the arm of my son so burdensome. ’ She continued a little longer in French till, observing the children did not understand her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same strain, a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of the Sabbath-- ‘only some old women go to mass. ’ After her speech, and having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout mon peuple, ’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with the statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft. , she disappeared, looking to the S. E. ” That this being was really Mary was acknowledged by Pio IX. , who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and other acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August 1867 the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The first stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary appeared to the children, was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble, on 25th May 1852, assisted by Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the presence of 15, 000 pilgrims. In the churches all over France and in many of those in Belgium are pictures representing N. D. De la Salette addressing the children. In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette she is appealed to as “the tower of David, ” “the gate of heaven, ” “the morning star, ” “the refuge of sinners, ” “the queen conceived without sin, ” “the healer of diseases, ” “thou by whose supplications the arm of the irritated Lord against us is held back, ” “thou who hast said, If my people will not submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of my son, ” “thou who continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy upon us, pray for us. ”

 The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a shop at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par Maximin Giraud. ” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was sent to a nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that the pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born near Saint-Marcellin, Isère. 

 From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap, 22½ m. S. (See p.  333, and map p. 304. )

[Headnote: GIÈRES. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{398}{78}+GIÈRES. + At this station omnibuses await passengers for the baths ofUriage, 4 m. N. , and 1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Hôtel; Cercle; AncienHôtel; Des Bains; Du Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortableand commodious, and is pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley, about 400 ft. Higher than Grenoble. The water contains common salt, sulphates of magnesia and soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in adeep valley at the junction of granite and lias, which is, however, concealed for some way by an immense mass of detritus, through which thespring forces itself. It is conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneousconduit to the establishment, whence it issues with a temp. Of 71° Fahr. 

[Headnote: DOMENE. ]

{401}{75}+DOMENE+, pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Commerce. From this village isgenerally made the laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft. Above the sea-level. Guides necessary. The first night is generallyspent at the village of Revel. Two days required. 

[Headnote: GONCELIN. ]

{412}{64}+GONCELIN+, pop. 1600. Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. Distant byan excellent road through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibusesawaiting passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaitspassengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon theright bank of the Isére. 

 Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. Above the sea, pop. 4000. The three principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ frs. To 12½ frs. Per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, with the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other end of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place contiguous to the Temple Protestant is the H. Du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ frs. In a garden of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the France. The H. Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of the lias with the primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° Fahr. , with a great deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially efficacious in diseases of the throat and the respiratory organs, for the cure of which the establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus for inhalation and gargling being both complete and varied. 

 Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate of iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted. 

 Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin du Monde, ” 1 m. Distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank and ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of the way. At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a toll of 10 sous. 

 The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft. , takes 1¾ hr. It is an elevated point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the Isère. 25 min. From Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent. , the remains of a castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this a path ascends through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the hamlet of Crozet. Descend by sledge, 2 frs. 

 There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a tariff by the authorities of the place. 

[Headnote: SEPT LAUX. ]

 The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most difficult, is 9 m. Up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La Ferrière+, to the Sept Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. Above the sea-level, and the Glacier of Gleyzin, 9480 ft. Above the sea-level. Time required to go, 14 hrs. Constant walking, but to the lakes only, about half that time. This series of lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild gloomy ravine, shut in on all sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by springs, and are not accumulations of stagnant water derived from the melting snow. The banks are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered with snow nearly the whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake Blanc, is almost always frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a sluggish frog inhabits the marshy margins. 

[Headnote: PONTCHARRÁ. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{418}{58}+PONTCHARRÁ+ station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the village ofPontcharrá, pop. 2800, _Inn:_ Domenjon, 1¼ m. Distant. From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. To the village of La Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born. 

 {426}{50} +LES MARCHES+, a straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which stands the church of Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of the Virgin. Beyond are some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips from Mt. Granier, 6520 ft. 2½ m. From Les Marches is Montmélian, where passengers by this route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and join the direct line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53 miles), see from Montmélian, p. 289. 

+Marseilles to Grenoble+, 190 m. N. , by GARDANNE, AIX, PERTUIS, ST. AUBAN, VEYNES, and CLELLES. Fare--first class, 36 frs. 70 c. ; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is394 m. S. E. From Paris by Lyons (see p.  324). 

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to GRENOBLE

{ }{190}+MARSEILLES. + There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either byRognac 33 m. , or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be chosen bythose who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p.  77). 

[Headnote: GARDANNE. ]

{11}{179}+GARDANNE+, pop. 3500, on the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmesare important coal-fields. Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S. E. , on the line between Marseilles and Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of interest are Brignoles and St. Maximin. 

{18½}{171½}+AIX-EN-PROVENCE+ (see p. 78). At Aix change carriages for Rognac. 5 m. N. From Aix is La Calade station, where a coach awaits passengers forSt. Cannat, 5 m. N. W. (p.  80); and Lambesc, 3½ m. Farther (p.  80). 5 m. S. W. From Lambesc is Pelissanne. 16 m. N. From Aix, or 34½ m. N. FromMarseilles, is Meyrargues (see p.  79). 

[Headnote: PERTUIS. ]

{38}{152}+PERTUIS+, pop. 5800. _Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other. Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. From the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m. W. , passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L’Isle, the station for Vaucluse (see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the Durance commences near Pertuis (p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is the Tour d’Aigues, which was part of the old fortifications. From Pertuis the country becomes picturesque. 10 m. N. Is the station of Mirabeau, pop. 800, with the castle in which Mirabeau spent his boyhood, and in which his father was born. 

 60 m. N. From Marseilles, and 130 m. S. From Grenoble, is Manosque, pop. 6200 (see pp.  166 and 168). 4½ m. N. From Manosque is Volx village and station, with beds of lignite. 69½ m. N. From Marseilles is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on the Oraison. 3½ m. N. From Brillanne is the station and village of Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking the Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and a Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet. 

[Headnote: PEYRUIS. ]

{77½}{112½}+PEYRUIS+, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance, at the base of cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. High, which bythe action of water have been cut up into tall pinnacles. 

{80½}{109½}+ST. AUBAN+, pop. 250, junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, seep.  166, and maps pp.  162 and 304. )

 +Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles+, 53 m. E. , by coach; time, 11 hrs. ; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. From Digne is La Javie, famous for plums; pop. 500; H. De France, at the junction of the Bléonne with the Arigeol. 2 m. Beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the Combefère, whence a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990 ft. Thence descend to Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of gypsum, 19 m. From Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is commenced the ascent of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft. ; from which descend to Seyne-les-Alpes, pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and half-way between Digne and Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the 11th and 12th cents. 18 m. From Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet, is St. Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking the Ubaye. From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette, p. 341. 

[Headnote: COLMARS. ]

 +Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. Thomas, Colmars, and Allos+, 55 m. N. E. 10½ m. From Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200, on a confluent of the Bléonne. 21¼ m. Beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at the foot of Mts. Meunier and Draye, on the Sence at its junction with the Verdon. Excellent cheese, called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills. 5 m. Beyond is Allos, pop. 1400, with a small inn, 18 m. From Barcelonnette. A short way from Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in one of the wildest and most sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake Allos, 7346 ft. Above the sea, 4 m. In circumference, 140 ft. Deep, containing capital trout, and surrounded by cliffs in some places 590 ft. High, over which tower bleak mountains, of which the most lofty is Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake discharges its surplus water through a subterranean canal 1640 ft. Long, whence it issues under the name of the torrent Chadoulin. From the village of Allos proceed to Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an interesting church, and Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary of the Ubaye. (For Barcelonnette, see p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see p. 165. )

[Headnote: SISTERON. ]

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to GRENOBLE

{91}{99}+SISTERON+, pop. 5000. Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre;their omnibuses await passengers at station. Picturesquely situated, 1575 ft. Above the sea, on both sides of the Durance at its confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the town are the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent. , and three towers, part of the fortifications built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has been very much altered externally by restoration and repairs. The effect of the graceful octagonal tower has been destroyed by the square tower adjoining. In the interior the arches are early pointed, inclining to the stilted form. The three apsidal terminations are semicircular. The small window at the end of each is closed. The end of the town farthest from the railway is picturesque. From the gateway rise perpendicular cliffs of blue limestone, on the top of which is a fortress of the third class. Immediately opposite, on the other side of the Durance, are similar strata heaved up and twisted into an enormous pyramid. A little beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by the cemetery to a place where there is a good view of the valleys of the Durance and the Buech. 7 m. N. From Sisteron is +Mison+ station, 2002 ft. Above the sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m. Farther, Laragne station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. From Laragne is Eyguians-Orpier station, 1979 ft. 

[Headnote: SERRES. ]

{112½}{77½}+SERRES+, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting ofdirty, steep, narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliffrising from between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to Nyons, 41 m. E. , p.  51. 8 m. N. From Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft. 

[Headnote: VEYNES. ]

{121½}{68½}+VEYNES+, 2614 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. AndRest, de la Gare; in town, H.  Dousselin. 

 Junction with rail to +Mont Dauphin-Guillestre+, 51 m. N. E. This branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which traverse the valleys of the Waldenses. 

[Headnote: GAP. ]

 On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. From Veynes and 34¼ m. S. W. From Mont Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, 2895 ft. Above the sea, pop. 9300. _Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; France. This, the ancient Civitas Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, extensive barracks, long avenues of walnut trees, and a handsome modern cathedral, built on the site of one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture is the mausoleum of the Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the leaders of the Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, Guillaume Farel, a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He died on the 13th Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his character were dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed a sonorous and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate earnestness; yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of large audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, aroused against his doctrines unnecessary opposition. 

[Headnote: LE LAUZET. ]

 +Gap to Barcelonnette+, coach daily; distance, 42 m. ; fare, 8 frs. ; time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its confluence with the Durance, 5 m. S. From Gap. From this point it ascends by the N. Side of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. From Gap. 3½ m. Farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the horses are changed. 300 yds. Above the confluence of the Ubaye with the Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, 23 m. From Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil is made. The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost every part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the picturesque fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. From Gap is Le Lauzet, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with narrow gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake abounding with trout. 3 m. Higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S. Side of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of Meolans occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses to the right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m. From Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m. , arrives at Barcelonnette. St. Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th cent. , and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the church is the S. Portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side. Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over the door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. Side of chancel is a square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a pattern to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally great to the height of the spire. 

[Headnote: BARCELONNETTE. ST. PAUL. ]

 +Barcelonnette+, 3718 ft. Above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord; France; on the Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by mountains clothed with walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present village was built in 1230 on ground given by Reymond Beranger, in honour of whose ancestors, the Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the newly-erected town received its name. The parish church, begun in 1230, was, on account of a conflagration, nearly rebuilt in the 16th and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the corner of the “Place” is all that remains of the church of N. D. De Confort, built in 1290 and destroyed in 1789. 

 From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there is also one to the village of St. Paul, 4730 ft. Above the sea, and 13½ m. N. E. From Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs. ; time, 3 hrs. , by the Maddalena road, the length of 2 m. Above La Condamine, where it diverges 6½ m. N. Up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye. The wheel-road continues 10 m. Beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft. Above the sea. From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet, 8767 ft. , and the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair inn) and Château Dauphin and the river Vraita. 

[Headnote: JAUSIERS. BERSEZIO. ]

 +Barcelonnette to Cuneo+ by the Col della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte, and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E. , 12 hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road all the way (see map, p.  304). Guide not necessary. 3¼ m. From Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. 3¾ m. More, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. From Barcelonnette, under the fortress of Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. Beyond La Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the other goes to the Pass of +La Maddalena+. 7 m. Beyond Chatelard, or 14¼ m. From Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; Italie; 5570 ft. , the last French village. 5 m. Beyond, or 19 m. From Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. Above the sea, between Mt. Mourre and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S. E. Side now descends 850 ft. By the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura, to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft. , with an inn and Italian custom-house. A little distance farther, or about 7 m. From the Col and 24 from Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine wild scenery. 14 m. From Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at the hamlet of Plancies, about 4 m. Beyond the village of Vinadio. 8 m. From Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, 8422 ft. , leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about 25 m. W. From Cuneo. 12 m. From Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, and 57 from Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. 182 and 279. )

 +Gap to Grenoble by Laye, Corps, and La Mure+, 62 m. Diligence to Vizille, the remaining 8 m. By rail. 

 From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. Northwards to Grenoble, by +Laye+, 6½ m. N. , where the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft. , is traversed. On the summit is a house of refuge. 4½ m. Beyond Laye is Les Barraques, _Inn:_ H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft. , pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières, in a most fertile district. 23 m. From Gap is Corps (see p.  333). 

[Headnote: LA MURE. CHORGES. ]

 23¾ m. From Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is +La Mure+, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. Above the sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs between La Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. Distant are the anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. From Grenoble is Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. Of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. W. By a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. From Grenoble is Laffrey (see p. 333). 

 26¾ m. From Veynes junction is +Chorges+, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. De la Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana. In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around the town are fragments of Roman buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of Chorges, is visited by pilgrims. 

[Headnote: SAVINES. EMBRUN. ]

 34¼ m. From Veynes is +Savines+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. De la Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and Meolan. 6¼ m. Beyond Savines is

 +Embrun+, 3014 ft. Above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste; 8¾ m. S. E. From Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. Side of Mont St. Guillaume, 5550 ft. Above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. Side. Above the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N. Portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions; the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is about 60 yds. Long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date from the time of Louis XI. , who frequently visited this church to pray to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the animal could proceed no farther. 

 Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune. 3 m. S. The road passes the village of Les Crottes. 

 After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N. E. From Embrun, with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3¾ m. Farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs. 

[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN. ]

 51 m. N. E. From Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coarse reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. Above the sea, or 496 ft. Above the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume. 

[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIÉS. ]

 2 m. From Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft. , pop. 1000, with an inn and church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800 ft. High. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. From Mont Dauphin, is a cascade. 3 m. Farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. From Briançon and 14 m. N. E. From Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val +d’Arvieux+, reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½ m. Below Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish” (see p.  304, and _Murray_, p.  216). A little higher up the left or S. Bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent. , and an inn. 18 m. From Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. From Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. Walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S. E. From +Abriés+ on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left. 

 For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin, p.  306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p.  304. 

 +Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65 m. E.  From Mont Dauphin a good road extends 21 m. E. To Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. Walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft. , on the S. Flank of Monte Meidassa, 10, 185 ft. , to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. From the Col. 8 m. Beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the valley, and 1778 ft. Above the sea. 5 m. Farther E. , on the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S. , to Sampeyre, 3205 ft. , the principal village in the valley of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. By coach from Paesana and 25 m. N. E. From Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p.  304). 

[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX. ]

 45¼ m. N. E. From Gap, and 9½ m. N. E. From Mont Dauphin, is +La Bessée+, 3420 ft. Above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. De la Poste. Here passengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of Val Louise, about 6½ m. W. By the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see p.  333). 10½ m. N. From La Bessée is Briançon (see p.  333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée to the N. W. Opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top, rising 12, 973 ft. Above the sea-level, is visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by Charles VIII. Arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_. The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race. ” --_Murray_, p. 218. 

 miles from MARSEILLES miles to GRENOBLE

{126}{64}+ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. Above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junctionwith road to Livron, 68 m. W. , on E. Side of Rhône (see p.  46). The roadafter leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceedswestwards by the valley of the Drôme (see p.  47). 

{154½}{35½}+CLELLES+, 2400 ft. , pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Station to alight atto make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. High, near Chichiliane, about 7 m. Distant towards Die. 

{163}{27}+MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Coldacidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach. 

[Headnote: VIF. ]

{177}{13}+VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft. , with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509 ft. 

[Headnote: VIZILLE. ]

{181}{9}+VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, theVigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the rightbank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restoredand used as a manufactory (see p.  333). 

{185}{5}+PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000ft. High (see p.  328). 

{190}{ }+GRENOBLE. + (See p. 324. )

+Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne. +

 See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhône and Savoy, p.  27. 

 miles from PARIS miles to LYONS

 { }{349} +PARIS. + For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp.  351 to 358. 

 {220}{129} +ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES. + All the trains halt here. 

 {231}{118} +LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century. 

 {235½}{113½} +ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th cent. 

 {262}{87} +ROANNE+, pop. 20, 000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent. ; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is £1, 120, 000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their offshoots. 

 {282}{67} +FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains. 

 {297½}{51½} +SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p.  348). 

 {312}{37} +SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. Above the sea, pop. 127, 000. _Hotels:_ Nord; France; both first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice, a large handsome building. 

 This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in summer, was founded by the Romans B. C. 56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal squares or “Places. ” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill, passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent. , containing some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne. 

[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES. ]

 A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves. ” On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3, 300, 000, employing 40, 000 workmen and 280, 000 spindles (broches), of which 165, 000 work organzines and trames, and 114, 000 work the silk intended for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65, 000 for weaving silks, and 80, 000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually £1, 600, 000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300, 000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de la Badouillière. 

[Headnote: ROCHETAILLÉE. ]

 _Excursions. _--Nearly 2 m. S. Is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the +Gouffre d’Enfer+. 2½ m. Farther by the same road is the village of Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat. A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10 m. From St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7 m. Farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft. , and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 ft. 

 14½ m. By rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft. Above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, 1½ m. Distant, on a hill 200 ft. Above the station. It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy, ” cased with masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases. 

 From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. Distant, with a hotel and bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs. 

 Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux, a coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. From the station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron. 

 St. Germains is the station for Vichy (p.  358). 

+Paris to Lyons by Tarare. +

 Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours. 

 miles from PARIS miles to LYONS

{ }{318}+PARIS. + This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. Fortime-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon. ” The route becomespicturesque after Roanne. 

[Headnote: ROANNE. ]

{262}{56}+ROANNE. + (See p. 346. ) 5 m. S. E. Is L’Hôpital, and 19 m. More themanufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. 7000, at the foot of a hill 1525ft. Above the sea-level, producing considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth. 3 m. From Amplepuis commences thetunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces the ridge that separates the basin ofthe Loire from the Rhône. The temperature of the Rhône basin in winteris rawer and colder than that of the Loire. 

[Headnote: TARARE. ]

{288}{30}+TARARE+, pop. 15, 000. _Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting andunattractive manufacturing town on the Turdine, surrounded by steepmountains, among which is Mont Chevrier, one of the highest summits ofthe Beaujolais range. At the low end of the town is the railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the valley of theTurdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 ft. , theothers average 35 ft. About 60, 000 men in the town and environs areemployed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, andespecially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan, ” a thingauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated. 

{318}{ }+LYONS+ (see p. 29). 

[Headnote: MONTBRISON. ]

+Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand+, 121 m. W. By GIVORS-CANAL, ST. ETIENNE, MONTBRISON, and THIERS. 

 At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St. Etienne (p.  346) a long halt is generally made. A little way up from the station will be found the steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns to this terminus. 56½ m. W. From Lyons and 64½ m. E. From Clermont is +Montbrison+ on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. _Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church of the nuns of “Sainte Marie. ”

 Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. D’Esperance, founded in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of Charles I. De Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206 ft. Long, and 62 ft. High from the pavement to the roof. At the E. End of the N. Aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV. , ” who founded the church in MCCXXIII. Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. MCCCLVIII. 

[Headnote: SALLE DES ETATS. ]

 Fronting the E. End of the church is the Salle des Etats (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 by Jean I. , Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. Long, 26¼ ft. Wide, and 26¼ ft. High. The roof is entirely covered with small painted representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows are modern additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the original one. 

 Less than ½ m. From the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent. , and in front of it a ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. From Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is the station of St. Paul (p. 30). 

 Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. From Clermont, 40½ m. W. From Montbrison, 60 m. W. From St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. From Lyons is

[Headnote: THIERS. ]

 +Thiers+, pop. 16, 500, at first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel dedicated to St. Symphorien (see p. 367). 

 Thiers is 72¼ m. N. From Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye, Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p.  89). 

 Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or Clermont-Ferrand. 

 1¼ m. W. From Thiers and 23 m. E. From Clermont-Ferrand is

 +Courty. + Junction with line to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W. , passing Vichy, 21½ m. N. 

[Headnote: VERTAIZON. BILLOM. ]

 13 m. W. From Courty and 10 m. E. From Clermont is +Vertaizon+, pop. 2200, situated 1¼ m. S. From the station. Junction with branch line to +Billom+, 5½ m. S. , pop. 4300. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily situated town among hills crowned with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th to 13th cents. 

 The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach +Clermont-Ferrand+ (see p. 369). 

+Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes. +

 This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps, pp. 1 and 27. )

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{ }{530}+PARIS. + Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first stationspassed are Brunoy (p.  2), Melun (p.  2), and Fontainebleau (p.  3). AtMoret, 42 m. S. E. From Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmesseparates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, seep.  10. )

{73}{457}+MONTARGIS+, pop. 10, 000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_Poste; France. The principal street leads directly from the station tothe Hôtel de la Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets aboutthe old castle are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. Thiscastle, rebuilt by Charles V. , called formerly the “berceau des enfantsde France, ” became private property in 1809. A house has been builtwithin the circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gatewaystill stands. 

The parish church is of different epochs--the nave and the aisles belongto the 12th cent. , and the chancel, which is four steps higher, to the16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from which thegroining of the roof ramifies in all directions. 

The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In theadjoining forest, covering 21, 030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt. Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines betweenParis and the south of France. 

10 m. S. By rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station forChâtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny wasborn in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst ofthe hereditary domain of the family. 

{96}{434}+GIEN+, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, andan important railway junction. On the hill rising from the town is thechurch of St. Pierre, flanked by a square tower, 15th cent. , commandingan admirable view. Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in1494 by Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by thePréfecture. Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38 m. N. W. By branch line is Orleans (see pp.  148 and 151 in Black’s_Normandy_). 

[Headnote: BRIARE. ]

{102½}{427½}+BRIARE+, pop. 5200. _Inn:_ H. De la Poste. A pleasant town on theLoire, where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. FartherS. By rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. Des Trois Rois;omnibus awaits passengers. 

[Headnote: COSNE. ]

{121}{409}+COSNE+, pop. 7000. _Inns_: Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of considerable importance, and still retaining parts ofits old fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at itsjunction with the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, ofwhich the portal and apse are of the 11th cent. ; the rest is modern. 6½ m. Farther S. By rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_Pointe du Jour. With castle, 13th cent. , on a hill 987 ft. Above thesea. In the neighbourhood are important quarries. 

{138}{392}+POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE+, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ Écu. The surrounding vineyardsproduce a famous white wine, with a peculiar flavour. It is drinkable inthe second year, and deteriorates after the 15th. 

{141}{389}+LA CHARITÉ+, built on a hill sloping down from the railway to theLoire, crossed by both a stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste etG.  Monarque; Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part ofits fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix, consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II. , there remain a vast narthex, thechoir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This church belongedto a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to the town itsname. The convent is now occupied by the order of the Visitandines(Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of St. Françoisde Sales. 

[Headnote: POUGUES LES EAUX. ]

{150}{380}+POUGUES LES EAUX+, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. DuChâlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. De l’Etablissement, andopposite the “Etablissement, ” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a quietplace, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whosestomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. Theestablishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering thewater, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fairrod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold, has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas, both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, andiron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of theliver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths ofcarbonic acid gas are employed. 

[Headnote: FOURCHAMBAULT. ]

{154}{376}+FOURCHAMBAULT+, pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town, H.  Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, employing above5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du Carrousel were casthere. Omnibus at station. 

[Headnote: NEVERS. ]

{158}{372}+NEVERS+, pop. 20, 400. _Hotels:_ at the station, H. De la Paix; H. DuChemin de Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A shortdistance N. W. From the station, or from the N. W. Corner of the Park, isthe nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviewswith the “immaculately conceived one, ” and where she died, after alingering illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the presentpope had not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor PioIX. Entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s _South France_, WestHalf). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave, covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:-- “Icirepose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée àLourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. Enreligion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère desSœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de son age et la12me de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le lieu. Psalm 131, v.  15. ”

[Headnote: FAÏENCE. ]

Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat atGergovia (p.  372) the inhabitants plundered his camp and massacred thesoldiers. Of the old fortifications there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the 11th cent. ; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent. ; the tower Goguin, 12th cent. ; and the Porte du Croux, a square tower of the 12th cent. , but rebuilt in 1393, now containing anantiquarian museum. At the entrance into the town by the Paris road is atriumphal arch, erected in 1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutchforces under the Duke of Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of ahill rising from the Loire in the midst of a flat country abounding withiron, giving employment to important ironworks. In the most elevatedpart is the Grande Place, with the +Palais de Justice+, formerly thePalais Ducal, a stately edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comtede Nevers, but altered and enlarged during the 16th cent. By hissuccessors, belonging to the families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is inthe form of a parallelogram, flanked with four towers, each containing astaircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur, ” ornamentedwith sculpture representing scenes connected with the history of thehouse of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old Palais deJustice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the Palais deJustice is a fountain by Lequesne. In the Hôtel de Ville are theLibrary, the Picture Gallery, and an interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers for eight centuries. Faïence isthe French term for all descriptions of glazed earthenware, andcorresponds nearly to the English word “crockery. ” The manufacture ofmajolica or enamelled pottery was introduced into France by Catherine deMédicis and her kinsman Louis Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henriettaof Clèves in 1565, became Duke of Nevers. There are still importantpottery works in the town. 

[Headnote: CASSINI. ]

Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr, reconstructed in the 13th cent. , with parts belonging to other epochs. The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. Portal in 1240, the choir in the14th cent. , and the S. Portal, which is flamboyant in style, adornedwith complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find awestern and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent. , covers a crypt of the11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of thetriforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by theastronomer Cassini while engaged in the triangulation of France. 

The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Pèrewas built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent. , and thechapel of the Visitandines in 1639. 

32½ m. E. By rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers forthe comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in thePyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p.  1. )

[Headnote: VARZY. CLAMECY. ]

Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. On the direct line betweenParis and Turin (see p.  14). On this branch line, 8¾ m. N. From Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the important ironworkscalled the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards of 1300 men. 24¼ m. Farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. De la Poste;with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents. , surmountedby two square towers. In the interior are an elegant triforium and abeautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of St. Eugenie. 44 m. S. From La Roche and 64 m. N. From Nevers is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p.  15);_Inns:_ Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne withthe Beuvron. On the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David ofJean Rouvet, the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood fromthe forests is floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church ofSt. Martin, 12th to 15th cent. , are a statue of Ste. Geneviève bySimart, a handsome organ-case of the 16th cent. , and a beautiful reredoson the high altar. Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle ofthe Dukes of Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and theprison occupy one large building. 

22 m. N. From Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction. Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p.  24). Branch to Le Creusot and Autun (see p.  24). 

[Headnote: SAINCAIZE. ]

{154}{ }+SAINCAIZE+, 600 ft. Above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. (See Black’s _South France_, West Half. )

[Headnote: MOULINS. ]

{195}{335}+MOULINS+, pop. 22, 000. _Hotels:_ At the station, H. Du Chemin de Fer;in. The town, Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station. A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along thebanks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral of NotreDame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The façade, overwhich rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with colonnettesof dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned withstatues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, islighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. Glass, and coveredwith a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a smallmausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even thefairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is anEntombment. In the first chapel, N. Side of the choir, is an “Adorationof the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is alarge square tower called “La tour mal coiffée, ” 15th cent. , now aprison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed partof the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting oldhouses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square isalso the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. Inthe chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the Palaisde Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, Renaudan andPoipant, of Henri II. , Duc de Montmorenci, godson of Henri IV. , and oneof the bravest marshals of France. He had the misfortune to draw uponhimself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the displeasure of LouisXIII. , which led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the30th October 1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, MariaOrsini, caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging tothe convent of the nuns “de la Visitation. ” The statues, all of thefinest Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent postureand the duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is thepublic library, with 25, 000 vols. And a manuscript Bible of the 12thcent, called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its movingstatues, is mounted on a square tower, 15th cent. , 40 ft. High. 

[Headnote: DUKE OF BERWICK. STERNE’S MARIA. ]

Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed sometime at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of theRebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died onthe 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain toCharles II. To be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, Dukeof Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James Duke ofYork, afterwards James II. , by Arabella Churchill, sister of the greatDuke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of August 1670, anddied 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the works ofPlutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in MarshalBerwick I have seen what they are. ” By the side of the Paris road, undera tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, withher lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by theintrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seatedmelancholy. (See Sterne’s _Sentimental Journey_, “Maria. ”)

[Headnote: SOUVIGNY. ]

9 m. W. From Moulins by rail is +Souvigny+, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croixd’Or. At the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautifulbasilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at variousperiods. It is 275 ft. Long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the ChapelleVieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of Louis II. , Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is that of DucCharles I. And Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels are enclosed ina stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the left of theprincipal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of the Zodiacsculptured on it. N. From the church, on the opposite side of thestreet, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of humblerank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. To Bourbonl’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de l’Écu). Itstops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow the travellerto cast a rapid glance over this pleasing specimen of Aquitaine andAuvergne architecture of the 11th cent. (See map, p.  1. )

[Headnote: BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT-BATHS. ST. PARDOUX SPRING. ]

+Bourbon-l’Archambault+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Close to the bathingestablishment, the Hôtel Montespan, on the site of the house which usedto be occupied by Madame de Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. Distant the Hôtel de France. On a hill at the northern side of thisancient town are the ruins of the once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis I. In 1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by DucPierre II. Four massive towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the twenty-four which it had originally. On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church, commenced in the 12th cent. , resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested, slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime, magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source de Jonas, ” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly laxative. 9½ m. S. From Bourbon is +St. Pardoux+, in a wooded and hilly country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre bottles at Bourbon at 3d. Per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. From Souvigny by rail is Commentry (see map, p. 1). 

 From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. To Montchanin, passing, at 17½ m. E. From Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E. , Gilly, station for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E. , Saint Agnan; 35 m. E. , Digoin; and 41½ m. E. , Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and map, p.  1). 

 +Dompierre-sur-Bebre+, pop. 2230. _Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent. , and now an agricultural school. 

[Headnote: GILLY. ]

 +Gilly+, station for +Bourbon-Lancy+, pop. 3300, 8¾ m. N. By the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H. Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of +St. Leger+, with an excellent small +Bathing Establishment+, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132° Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a swimming bath, 62 ft. Long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the bed of the outlet. 

 On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. And Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs. , and the G. H. Des Termes, pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. Des Bains, 7½ frs. ; for a lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several important cities are within a few hours by rail. 

 A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ H. De Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal mines. 6 m. Farther is +Digoin+, pop. 3300. Inns: H. Des Diligences, in the town; at the station, the H. De la Gare. Church of the llth cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire. 

[Headnote: ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{220}{310}+ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES+, 845 ft. Above the sea. Large refreshmentrooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriagesfor Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. H. DuPare (bed 2 frs. ), with garden. At the warehouse end of the station isthe inn H. De la Gare. In the village, the Paix. 7 m. S. From St. Germain and 227 m. S. From Paris is

 [Map: Vichy]

[Headnote: HOTELS AND THEIR CHARGES. ]

VICHY

on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. By express from Paris. _Hotels:_ Thelargest and best are around the Parc. Of them the most elegantlyfurnished are:--The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs. ; the H.  Parc, 12 to 20frs. ; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs. ; Mombrun, 12 to 20 frs. ; and the GrandHôtel, 12 to 16 frs. , all first-class. 

The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but thefurniture is not so costly. The H. Des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs. , adjoining the Villa Strauss, in which Napoleon III. Resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs. ; the Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs. ; the G. H. De la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs. ; the G.  H. Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs. ; Royal Hotel, Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs. ; and H. De la Restauration. Almost adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs. , a smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. Per day. The above prices include everything except the charge of 1 fr. For candles at the end of the stay. 

 Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille, is the G. H. Des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement, the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs. ; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs. ; and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs. , a more handsome house. 

 In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, *H. D’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs. , a clean quiet house, generally full. 

 In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the H. D’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs. , a small house served principally by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs. , fronting likewise the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service. 

 In the Place Rosalie are the +Source de l’Hôpital+ and the Banque de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed. 

 In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of houses, is the H. De Nice, 8½ to 10 frs. ; one side faces the church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. Du Centre, 7 to 10 frs. ; H. Fénélon; H. Du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs. ; Orleans and Milan same price. 

 In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway station, are the G. H. Du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs. , open all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs. ; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs. ; the Suisse; H. Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs. ; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ frs. ; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs. ; Globe, 7 frs. , open all the year--all between the railway station and the Etablissement. 

 At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. De Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas. 

 In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs. ; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H.  Venise, 8 to 9 frs. And the H. Palais-Royal. 

 There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs. , and ½ fr. For service. Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome. Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud. 

 Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable without being expensive. 

 Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding the different doctors can be had. 

 Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. Per day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets. Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In 1402 Louis II. , Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that remains is the great clock-tower or belfry. 

[Headnote: MINERAL WATER ESTABLISHMENT. ]

 At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the +Mineral Water Establishment+, composed of two large buildings--1st, The “Grand Etablissement, ” containing only first-class baths; a parallelogram 167 ft. Long by 250 broad, provided with 100 cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. To S. , having on the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath costs 2½ frs. , including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the sale of the bath tickets. 

 2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. And 60 c. Each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs. The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150 shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given in a single day. They commence at 3. 30 A. M. And continue till 5 P. M. , but at one part of the season till even later. But it must always be remembered that the external application of the water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October. The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day, and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes. 

[Headnote: CASINO. ]

 At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the +Casino+, a handsome comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. Long by 38 wide and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV. , with elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for 800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading, billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance ticket, 2 frs. ; a month, 25 frs. There is music every morning, a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening. A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is attached to the Casino. 

[Headnote: THE VICHY SPRINGS. ]

 +The Vichy Springs. +--The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic. They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz. The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz. , taken at different times throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts. 30 grammes equal 1 oz. 

 +The Springs and their peculiarities. +--Under the vestibule of the principal establishment are three important springs--the Grande Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan). 

[Headnote: GRANDE-GRILLE, CHOMEL, MESDAMES. ]

 +The Grande-Grille+, 110° Fahr. , is slightly aperient, and is employed with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and gravel. 

 The +Puits-Chomel+, 113° Fahr. The water of this spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can in many cases profitably replace the other springs. 

 +Mesdames+, 61° Fahr. , highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his usual strength. 

 The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113° Fahr. , which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for supplying the baths. 

[Headnote: PRUNELLE, PARC, HÔPITAL. ]

 About 100 yards E. From the principal establishment, in a building opposite the military hospital, is the +Source Prunelle+, a cold spring, recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi. A little farther E. Is the +Source Lucas, 84° Fahr. +, principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the +Source du Parc, 71° Fahr. +, recommended for sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic irritation or catarrh. At the N. End of the Casino, in front of the town hospital, is the +Source de l’Hôpital+ or Rosalie, 89° Fahr. , resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs, dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian tumours and other diseases of females. 

[Headnote: CELESTINS. ]

 A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five important springs, the +Sources des Celestins+, 54° and 58° Fahr. , of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77° Fahr. , which rises from a depth of 620 ft. , has a stimulating action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder, attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille would be preferable. ” --_Dr. E.  Lee. _

[Headnote: SOURCE HAUTERIVE. INFLUENCE OF VICHY WATER. ]

 3 m. S. From Vichy, on the W. Bank of the Allier, is the +Source Hauterive+, 57° Fahr. , used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities it resembles the Celestins. 

 The principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis. Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the abnormally acid condition of the blood. ” --_Madden’s Health Resorts. _ “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however, a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis. ” --_Dr. Daumas. _ “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present, ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind. ” --_Dr. P. James. _

 CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE PRINCIPAL SPRINGS. 

 GG Grande Grille P Park Ch Chomel H Hopital Md Mesdammes Ce Celestins L Lucas Hr Haute-rive

 +------------------+------------------------------------------------+ | Acids and Bases | NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. | | contained in +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ | each litre. | GG | Ch | Md | L | P | H | Ce | Hr | +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ |Carbonic Acid |4. 418|4. 429|5. 029 |5. 348|5. 071|4. 719|4. 705|5. 640| |Sulphuric „ | . 164| . 164| . 141 | . 164| . 177| . 164| . 164| . 164| |Phosphoric „ | . 070| . 038|traces| . 038| . 076| . 025| . 050| . 625| |Arsenic „ | . 001| . 001| . 002 | . 001| . 001| . 001| . 001| . 001| |Hydrochloric Acid | . 332| . 334| . 222 | . 324| . 344| . 324| . 234| . 334| |Silica | . 070| . 070| . 032 | . 050| . 055| . 050| . 060| . 071| |Protoxide of Iron | . 002| . 002| . 012 | . 002| . 002| . 002| . 002| . 008| |Lime | . 169| . 169| . 235 | . 212| . 239| . 222| . 180| . 168| |Strontia | . 002| . 002| . 002 | . 008| . 003| . 003| . 003| . 002| |Magnesia | . 097| . 108| . 134 | . 088| . 068| . 064| . 105| . 160| |Potash | . 182| . 192| . 098 | . 146| . 151| . 228| . 163| . 098| |Soda |2. 488|2. 536|1. 957 |2. 501|2. 500|2. 500|2. 560|2. 368| +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ | TOTALS |7. 997|8. 043|7. 866 |8. 877|8. 687|8. 302|8. 327|9. 039| | | | | | | | | | | | Saline | | | | | | | | | | ingredients | | | | | | | | | | in each litre. | | | | | | | | | +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ |Free Carbonic Acid| . 908| . 768|1. 908 |1. 751|1. 555|1. 067|1. 049|2. 183| |Bicarb. Of Soda |4. 883|5. 091| 4. 016|5. 004|4. 857|5. 029|5. 103|4. 687| | „ Potash | . 352| . 371| . 185 | . 282| . 292| . 440| . 315| . 189| | „ Magnesia | . 303| . 338| . 429 | . 275| . 213| . 200| . 328| . 501| | „ Strontia | . 303| . 003| . 003 | . 005| . 005| . 005| . 005| . 003| | „ Lime | . 434| . 427| . 604 | . 545| . 614| . 570| . 462| . 432| | „ Protox. Of Iron| . 004| . 004| . 026 | . 004| . 004| . 004| . 004| . 017| |Sulphate of Soda | . 291| . 291| . 250 | . 291| . 314| . 291| . 291| . 291| |Phosphate | . 130| . 070|traces| . 070| . 140| . 046| . 091| . 046| |Arseniate | . 002| . 002| . 003 | . 002| . 002| . 002| . 002| . 002| |Chloride of Sodium| . 534| . 534| . 355 | . 518| . 550| . 518| . 534| . 534| |Silica | . 070| . 070| . 032 | . 050| . 055| . 050| . 060| . 071| | +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ | TOTALS |7. 914|7. 959|7. 811 |8. 797|8. 601|8. 222|8. 244|8. 956| +------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

 The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only slightly from the Célestins. 

 In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime. 

+Excursions. +

 CAB FARES. --The course within the town from 6 A. M. To 12 P. M. With 1 horse, 1½ fr. ; 2 horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3 frs. , and 2 frs. Each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs. ; the day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs. , the following hours, 3 frs. Each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c. ; the day, 25 frs. 

 Art. 17--The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters. 

 Art. 18. --The day is fixed at 12 hrs. , which comprises 2 hrs. For rest; the half-day at 6 hrs. , and 1 hr. For rest. 

[Headnote: DRIVES. CUSSET. ]

 For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des Justices (about 2 m. Beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, 7 frs. ; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, 8 frs. ; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs. ; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 frs. ; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs. ; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, 18 frs. ; 2 horses, 24 frs. 

 +Cusset+, pop. 6200, on the Sichon, 2 m. E. From Vichy. _Inn:_ H. Du Centre, in the Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into the town is the +Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie+, a neat building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold. The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only 1 fr. Is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron. 

 From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S. E. Take the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is called the “Côte des Justices, ” because on it criminals suffered the extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest part, 1¼ m. From the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms. Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1 fr. Each. 

[Headnote: MONTAGNE-VERTE. ]

 2½ m. N. From Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288 ft. Above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery. 

 +Vichy to Busset+ by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S.  Return by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken. 

[Headnote: GRIVATS. ]

 The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles de Vichy, called also Grivats, a variegated cotton stuff used for gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ fr. The mètre (1⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at Roanne, cost from 75 c. To 1 fr. The mètre. At Grivats they are all made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de l’Hôpital. 

 From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. From Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr. , but it is not worth entering. The favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr. , which, unless after heavy rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view. 

[Headnote: BUSSET. ]

 The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. Towards Busset, 2½ m. From the Ardoisière, or 10 m. From Vichy by this road. Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. From Busset, on the E. Side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N. 

 Nearly 8 m. S. E. From the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs. 

[Headnote: RANDAN. VESSE-INTERMITTENT-SPRING. ]

 +Vichy to Randan. +--Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11. 20 A. M. ; arrives at Randan at 1 P. M. ; leaves Randan at 3. 20, and is back to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m. , by Maulmont costs 3½ frs. 

 The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left hand a small house with the sign SOURCE INTERMITTENTE. In the garden is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. To the height of 16 ft. Above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c. 

 From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little chapel, and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E. Through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. Side of the river. 

[Headnote: ST. YORRE. RIS. ]

 +Vichy to Thiers+ by rail, 22 m. S. , changing at Courty. 5 m. S. From Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft. 

 The next station S. From St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5 m. From St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. From the station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W.  The broad road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents. , has narrow aisles and nave and semicircular apse. 

[Headnote: CHATELDON. THIERS. ]

 For +Chateldon+, 3¼ m. S. E. From station, take the road that follows the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7 frs. , whence the coach starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron. 

 +Maringues+ is 11½ m. W. From the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. From the station. 

 23½ m. S. From Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of +Thiers+, pop. 16, 230. _Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous country. 

 Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft. Above the sea, but only 405 ft. Above the old prison near the “Place. ” At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th cent. , excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th cent. , with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent. , representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S. E. From Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. From Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below). 

 Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S. W. By the villages of Vesse (or Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier. 

[Headnote: GANNAT. AIGUEPERSE. ]

 The Château d’Effiat (15th cent. ) belonged in the 16th cent. To Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially restored. 3¾ m. W. , on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is +Aigueperse+, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. From Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon drive. 

 2 m. N. From St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the Château de Billy (14th cent. ), formerly one of the strongest and most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses. 

 17 m. N. E. By rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. De l’Écu; with a castle (14th cent. ) on an eminence overlooking the town (see p.  346). 

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{224}{ }+SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT+, 867 ft. Above the sea. 

{235½}{294½}+GANNAT+, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, onthe Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church ofSt. Croix (choir 11th cent. , nave reconstructed in the 14th cent. ), is agood specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows areby J. Du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to theDukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent. Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system ofthe Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and theFeudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s _Normandy, Brittany, andTouraine_. 

{242}{288}+AIGUEPERSE+, pop. 2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finestbuilding is the Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is ina convent of the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this stationgoes to Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E. , pop. 2000, with a beautifulcastle of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in 1822 by Mme. Ad. D’Orleans. 2½ m. Distant, on the border of the forest of Randan, isanother castle constructed by Mme. In the style of the Middle Ages. Seeunder excursions from Vichy. 

[Headnote: RIOM. ]

{253}{277}+RIOM+, 1105 ft. Above the sea, pop. 11, 000. _Inns:_ H.  Paris; Poste;Puy-de-Dome. Diligences to Volvic, 3¼ m. S. W. ; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N. ;and to Châteauneuf, 20 m. N. W. The most interesting church in Riom isSt. Amable, 12th cent. , with a large nave supported on 14 piers, eachpier having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept isthe same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. NearSt. Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent. , and close to it a few15th and 16th cent. Houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of thePalais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent. , consisting of achoir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the buildingcalled the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery. 

 20 m. N. W. From Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A. M. , are the mineral baths of +Châteauneuf+, pop. 1000. _Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr. 

 5 m. N. From Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_ Bains; Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100° Fahr. 

 3½ m. S. W. From Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church, the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see p. 377). 

[Headnote: CLERMONT-FERRAND. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{260½}{269½}+CLERMONT-FERRAND+, 1335 ft. Above the sea, pop. 43, 000, on an eminencecrowned by the cathedral, of which the principal façade, the westentrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, while the chancel or easternend is towards the railway station. _Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude arethe *Univers; *Poste, for commercials; Europe. Just off the Place deJaude are the Paix; France. All the above are large houses. Near theAcadémie and the Botanic Gardens, the H. Des Facultés, a small but goodhouse. Among the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. DesVoyageurs. Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of thePuy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a large cabstand andoffices where carriages may be hired for excursions. 

[Headnote: POST OFFICE. CATHEDRAL. ]

The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. Sideof the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence thereis a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Heremis a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture. A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is theTemple Protestant, service 1 P. M. The first narrow street beyond thepost office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante. 

Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moistand crystalline (glacé) state. 

The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volviclava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on theN. Side is 165 ft. High. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which risenearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on fourfascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towardsthe apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches ⅓narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave datesfrom the 15th cent. ; but only a few are complete, having been injured bya hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N. Transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S. Transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its threemen to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Tenchapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. Side is amiracle-working image of Mary and Child. 

The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 PassageVernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. Angle of theprincipal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by goingto the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of whichis a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through theshop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he wasborn. 

[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DU PORT. ]

The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de laPoterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. Thelarge block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais deJustice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyondthese buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. Transept. Theexterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns inmosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower. 

In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round thenave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitalssculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel issurrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more orless stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium ismassive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in thewindow behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. And N. Ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent. 

Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns. Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Maryand child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. Deep, in 578, when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well, which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed withmiraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitudefor favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the womanMary. 

It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. AndPeter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake thefirst crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediateinspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of God!” whichwords became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of theCrusaders. 

The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide RueLagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated theAcadémie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms, the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the PublicLibrary founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese. 

[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS. ]

Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable partis wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit treesand vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a smallaquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made atPuy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easilyon the stomach. 

[Headnote: ROMAGNAT. ]

3¾ m. S. From Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M.  Rognon, 1875 ft. , and 1½ m. More is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft. , the site of theprincipal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended byVercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, whom hecompelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters aresupposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also underLes Laumes, p.  19. )

Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to thePuy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the+Baraque+, and ascend by the S. Side, which is easier. 

The +Puy-de-Dome+ is 4806 ft. Above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a roughspongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, ofwhich the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been nameddomite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, oftenfriable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposedtrachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. Themost perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. High, and theNid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy arealso the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent. , and of aGallo-Roman temple to Mercury. 

For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, seep.  376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. By Courty(where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal(see p.  349). 

From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of theAllier to La Bastide, 116 m. S.  Some parts of the valley are verypicturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m. , Le Cendre, 1145ft. ; 270¼ m. , Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft. ; 272 m. , Vie-le-Comte, 1164ft. ; 276½ m. , Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft. , but thetown is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent. 

[Headnote: ISSOIRE. ]

{282½}{247½}+ISSOIRE+, pop. 6400, and 1200 ft. Above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste;Pezissat; opposite each other in the principal street. It is a cleanlittle town. The principal church, founded in the 10th cent. , is ahighly interesting specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Theexterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are justsufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while theelegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of thecharacteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration ofdifferently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round thechancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St. Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudypainting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises theeye on entering. The crypt (10th cent. ), below the chancel, but notbelow the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing acomplex series of arches around a central arch, under which is thealtar. 

[Headnote: LE BREUIL. ]

{287¾}{242¼}+LE BREUIL+, 1287 ft. , pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H.  Beranger. Coaches await passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W. , and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through ahilly and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. From St. Germain, a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing thecarbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas. 2½ m. Farther is +Ardes+; _Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze. In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent. , but restored and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road, contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About 4½ m. Up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About 5 m. Up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of St. Pesade. 

 2½ m. S. From Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. Above the sea. Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. Farther S. , 1322 ft. Above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin clay. 

[Headnote: ARVANT. ]

 miles from PARIS miles to MARSEILLES

{298}{232}+ARVANT+, 1400 ft. , a dirty hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent ofthe Allier. The best of the inns is the H.  Voyageurs. Junction here withthe line to Capdenac, 110 m. S. W. , traversing the whole of theinteresting geological region of the Cantal. (See Black’s _SouthFrance_, West Half. )

From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S. W. From Arvant, commences theloop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the loftywoodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wineand olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line, between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. From Neussargues, 7 m. S. From St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. From Marvejols, is the highestbridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine ofthe Truyère 400 ft. Above the river. The span of the great arch is 541½ft. , and the length of the viaduct 1851 ft. 

[Headnote: BRIOUDE. ]

{304}{226}+BRIOUDE+, 1430 ft. Above the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a tableland, 1¼ m. From the Allier. The parish churchSt. Julien (restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. Façade, of red sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the threeportals. The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plainbuttresses, over which rises a low square tower. On the S. Side of thechurch is another portal, preceded by a massive portico on three largesemicircular arches, resting on short square piers with attached columnsbearing large foliaged capitals. On the N. Side is a similar entrance, but plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal inthe two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at alower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in acornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above thechapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and whitestones. 

The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square pierswith attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliagedcapitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-uptriforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have aprofusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and somebeautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt. 

Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Hôtelde Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain. 

[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC. ]

{318½}{211½}+ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC+, 1872 ft. Above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, nearthe station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E. , and for St. Etienne54½ m. Farther. (See p.  91, and map p.  46. )

[Headnote: LANGEAC. ]

{323}{207}+LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p.  91, and mapp.  46. ) Between Langeac and Langogne the train passes through a mostpicturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonalcolumns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between verticalcliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried pastin the train. 3¾ m. S. From Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft. , pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains ofthe old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at thenext station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. From Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent. , against a rock. Then follow the stations ofMonistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p.  91); Alleyras, 2195 ft. ; and Jonchure, 2238 ft. 

[Headnote: LANGOGNE. ]

{364½}{165½}+LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. Above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc;Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halthere. (See pp.  88 and 94, and map p.  46. ) 7½ m. Farther S. Is Lucstation, 2900 ft. ; and 4½ m. Farther S. , La Bastide, 3070 ft. , theculminating point of the line. A few miles to the W. Of the station isthe source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, 6 m. S. , the station is only2580 ft. Above the sea. The line now passes by immense rocks and cliffsof granite. 

{390}{140}+VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft. , pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in adeep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station forMende, passing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m.  W. 

 +Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi. A poor village 3087 ft. Above the sea, at the confluence of the Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr. , efficacious in rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and plenty of game on the mountains. 

From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous countryby numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the twostations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zincmines commence which extend to Alais. 

[Headnote: ALAIS. ]

{419}{111}+ALAIS+, pop. 22, 000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg;Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, andTamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is thebest station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some verycapital wine is made at Alais. 

Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N. E. To Teil (seep.  96, and map p.  56); also to Laudun, 35½ m. E. (see p.  99, and mapp.  56). 

{450}{80}+NÎMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66). 

{467}{63}+TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66). 

{470}{60}+ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66). 

{499½}{30½}+ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66). 

{512½}{17½}+ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66). 

{518}{12}+PAS-DES-LANCIERS. +

{530}{ }+MARSEILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123). 

[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART. ]

 miles from CLERMONT miles to MARSEILLES

+Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+, 122 m. W. By rail, passing Royat 3¾ m. , Durtol 5 m. , Volvic 12½ m. , Vauriat 17½ m. , St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m. , Pont-Gibaud 24 m. , LaMiouze-Rochefort 28½ m. , Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m. , Laqueuille 40½ m. , Meymac 73 m. , and Tulle 105¾ m. S. W. From Clermont and 16¼ m. N. E. FromBrive. 

From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends thehighly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The firststation is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up toRoyat are H.  Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higherup beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, foundedin the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened andfortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a lowtower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under thesmall chancel, raised 5 ft. Above the floor of the nave, is a cryptsupported on six colonnettes. 

In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back ofJ.  C. Is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. Thenarrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to theGrotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springsof crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed toflow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led toClermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing theTirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of thevalley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is thebathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the mostimportant is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment;temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate ofsodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and alittle iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1½fr. To 2½ frs. According to the season. 

Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishmentthe H. St. Mart; the H.  Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-classhouses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre;Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. From Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalières. A great varietyof excursions in the neighbourhood. 

 miles from CLERMONT miles to MARSEILLES

{5}{117}+DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains. 

[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD. ]

{12½}{109½}+VOLVIC. + In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries oflava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent viewof Riom, 3½ m. E. From Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly onan eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Bannière. The parish churchdates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture arethe principal industries (see p.  369). 

The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m. , St. Ours-les-Roches20 m. , and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m. Distant. _Inns:_ H.  Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses awaitpassengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent. , are situated on theSioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the craterof Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the importantargentiferous mines in the neighbourhood. 

[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE. ]

{40½}{81½}+LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. Above the sea. Change here forMont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S. E. , and for Bourboule 8 m. S. W. Thebeautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore passes through at about halfwaythe village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. Above the sea. Immediately below LeQuaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule passes through the village ofSt. Sauves, 2838 ft. Above the sea. 

+MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+

 is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne, 3402 ft. Above the sea. _Hotels. _--Considering the style of their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. Per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses, Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. Du Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. As it is rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H.  Bardet-Chanonat; H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H.  Ramade; H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the other two are occupied by the first-class hotels. 

 The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table mixed with the wine. 

 Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose. 

 The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc. , are at their dearest during July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then 2 frs. , at other times 1½ fr. ; a nose douche, 50 c. To 75 c. Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from 109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water in July is 10 frs. , in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by tickets bought at the office of the baths. 

 [Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule. ]

[Headnote: ANALYSIS OF THE WATER. ]

 CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE. 

 MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring. PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring. RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs. 

 +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ | | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS | +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ |Free carbonic |0. 3552 |0. 3810 |0. 3644 |0. 5967 |0. 4997 |0. 0518 | | acid gas | | | | | | | |Bicarbonate |0. 5362 |0. 5452 |0. 5375 |0. 5361 |0. 5362 |2. 8920 | | of soda | | | | | | | | „ of potash |0. 0309 |0. 0309 |0. 0232 |0. 0212 |0. 0212 | . .. . | | „ of lime |0. 3423 |0. 3142 |0. 3092 |0. 3209 |0. 2720 |0. 1905 | | „ of magnesia |0. 1757 |0. 1676 |0. 1628 |0. 1676 |0. 1647 | . .. . | | „ of protoxide |0. 0207 |0. 0235 |0. 025 |0. 0258 |0. 0317 |0. 0021 | | of iron | | | | | | | |Chloride of Sodium|0. 3685 |0. 3630 |0. 3599 |0. 3587 |0. 3578 |2. 8406 | |Sulphate of soda |0. 0761 |0. 0761 |0. 0761 |0. 0756 |0. 0737 |0. 2084 | |Arseniate of soda |0. 00096|0. 00096|0. 00096|0. 0009 |0. 00095|0. 02847| |Silicic acid |0. 1654 |0. 1686 |0. 1653 |0. 1552 |0. 1550 |0. 1200 | |Alumina |0. 0112 |0. 0094 |0. 0101 |0. 0083 |0. 0065 |Traces. | +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

 Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F. , or 27° above the hottest of Mont-Dore. 

 These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden’s _Health Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the saturation point has been obtained. --Lee’s _Baths_. 

 As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20 to 25 frs. ; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. Per day. 

[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH. ]

 _Excursions. _--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the different places. 

 One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. By the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below), 5 m. N. From Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. High. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs. 

 Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m. , to the Saut-du-Loup 1¾ m. , and to the Pré du Barbier. 

[Headnote: LAKE GUÉRY. ]

 The excursion to Lake Guéry, 5 m. N. , commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. Are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft. , the Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft. , is 1½ m. W. From the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. From the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft. , one side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway. 

[Headnote: ORCIVAL. ]

 4½ m. N. From Lake Guéry is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents. , containing a miraculous image found near it under the earth. 2½ m. W. From the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S. 

 N. E. From Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N. E. From Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, 5076 ft. , is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. Above the sea, 75 ft. Deep, in an extinct crater. On the N. Margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp. 

 9 m. E. , at the village of Fohet, S. From Lake Aydat, are some menhirs. 

 The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. Above the sea, are 12 m. E. From Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne. 

 From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. To Besse, whence it passes by Lake Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. From Besse. At Vassivières a bridle-path diverges N. To the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see p. 381). 

 To the W. And S. W. Of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m. , the cascades of Vernière 3 m. , and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p.  385); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385). 

[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN. ]

 The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+, 6188 ft. Above the sea, or 2786 ft. Above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S. From it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft. ; and a little farther S. On the same (E. ) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft. To the right or W. Side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. Above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to an old alum mine. 

 The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft. , situated in the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. Charged for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. In circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N. , by the Chemin des Crètes. 

 3 m. S. From Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft. , with a church built in 1595, containing a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to the W. Of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. From Vassivières, or 10¼ m. From Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 ft. Above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. Long, 2462 ft. Wide, and 315 ft. Deep, completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. High. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. End rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. Side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. Deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin. 

 3 m. E. , or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft. , on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It contains some 14th and 15th cent. Houses and most of its old gates, one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted into shops and dwellings. 

[Headnote: MUROLS. ]

 From Besse go 5¾ m. N. To Murols, 13 m. E. From Mont-Dore, on the highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_ Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, 3186 ft. , overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent. , and favourite residence of the lords of Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. From Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft. , Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. Above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little farther W. Is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. Higher than the lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain. 

 The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is 11 m. ; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and Murols the entire distance is 32 m. 

[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLÉE D’ENFER. ]

 A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du Capucin, ” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. Above the sea, about 2 m. S. From Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend. 

 To go to the +Vallée d’Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. Long, near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft. , is the opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N. 

[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES. ]

BOURBOULE. 

 8 m. From Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. Above the sea, or 606 ft. Lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their especial virtue--the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at Mont-Dore. 

 _Hotels. _--Around the principal establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. De ¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms. 

 At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste; Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental. 

 Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to let. 

 The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. The day, which includes room and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. Extra. Service, ½ to 1 fr. Per day. Candles, 3 frs. At end of season. From the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers. 

 The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon beforehand it will be much the same. 

 The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent. 

 In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to 31st August, 3 frs. ; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to the 30th September, 2½ frs. 

 In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. Less than in the Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. Less than in the Choussy. 

 The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs. , and in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs. 

 The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr. 

[Headnote: SPRINGS. ]

+The Springs. +

 Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left, in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140° F. 

 These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F. ), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with wine at dinner. 

+Their Constituents and Effects. +

 Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc. , these waters produce great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters. 

[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. ]

+Bourboule Excursions. +

 On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it is 2¼ m. From the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. From the Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. From Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. From Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. From the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. From the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. From the summit of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. From the petrifying spring, 3½ m. From the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. From Latour. The most of these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule. 

 The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. By a path following the right or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. Beyond, the Vendeix path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. From the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. From Bourboule by this roundabout way, but only 2½ m. By the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. High, tumble into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin. A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. High, 2¼ m. From Bourboule. 

 On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. From Bourboule and 4 m. From Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. To the summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. Above the sea. 

[Headnote: SAINT-NECTAIRE. ]

+Mont-Dore to Issoire+, 31¾ m. E. , by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E. , and Champeix other 8¾ m. Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E.  TheMont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loupand of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, andtraversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at+Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas+, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc. 

N. From St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a largebathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, andstimulant, temperature between 75° F. And 110° F. , and are recommendedfor renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, and gout. Thespecialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. InMont Cornadore are large caves. 

 The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent. , is a curious specimen of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. By 6½ ft. ; and 2½ m. Distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. Beyond, towards Issoire, is Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft. , may be ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves, 3 m. From Issoire (p. 372). 

+Continuation of Route--Clermont to Brive. +

14 m. S. W. From Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S. W. From Clermont, and 68 m. N. E. From Brive, is +Eyguirande+, pop. 1150. Junction here withloop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S.  Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S. , passingMauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West Half). 

31 m. S. W. From Eyguirande station is +Meymac+, pop. 3200, on theLozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent. ; remains of fortifications. Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N. , and close toLimoges. (See _South France_, West Half. )

[Headnote: TULLE. BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE. ]

16¼ m. N. E. From Brive, and 105¾ m. S. W. From Clermont, is +Tulle+, pop. 15, 500, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearmsand coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric calledtulle. 

122 m. S. W. From Clermont, 311 m. S. From Paris, 156 m. N. FromToulouse, and 45 m. E. From Perigueux, is +Brive-la-Gaillarde+, pop. 12, 000, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _SouthFrance_, West Half). 

 * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

INDEX. 

 ABRIES 344 Acqui 184 Agay 147 Aiguebelle 289 Aigueperse 368 Aigues-Mortes 73 Aiguilles 344 Aime 321 Aix-en-Provence 78, 338 · olive oil 79

 +Aix+-les-Bains 283 ---- to Geneva by Annecy 286 Alacoque, M. M. 27 Alais 375 Alan 49 Alassio 208 Albenga 208 Albertville 320 ---- to Annecy 320 Albissóla 210 Alesia 19

 Alessandria 280 Alise-St. Reine 19 Allègre 89 Allevard-les-Bains 336 Allos 339 Alvernia 279 Alzon 105 Amberieux 281 Ambert 91 Amplepuis 348 Ampuis 81 · wine 81

 Amyot, Jacques 3 Ancy-le-Franc 18 Annecy 286 Annonay 81 Antibes 154, 169 Antraigues 94 Apricale 201 Aps 97 Apt 66 · preserves 66 Aramon 99 Arenzano 211 Ardèche, sketch of 45 ---- coaches to 45 ---- map of 46 Ardes 373 Arezzo 279 Arfeuilles 346 Arlanc 90

 Arles 68, 376 · to Fontvieille 71 · to Port Bouc 72 · to Port St. Louis 72 · to St. Gilles 72

 Arma 207 Arsac 86 Artemart 282 Arvant 373 Aspres 48, 345 Astet 89 Asti 280 Aubagne 122 Aubenas 93 Aups 145, 167 Auribeau 156 Autun 24 Auxerre 14 Avallon 16 Avenza 222

 +Avignon+ 58 · Benezet’s bridge 63 · ---- tomb 62 · Hotels 58 · Hôtel de Ville 61 · J. S. Mill’s tomb 63 · Laura’s tomb 62 · Musée Calvet 61 · Museum of Natural History 62 · Notre Dame des Doms 60 · Popes’ palace 58 · Rocher des Doms 60 · St. Agricol 61 · St. Didier 62 · St. Joseph 62 · St. Nicolas 63 · St. Pierre 62 · to Manosque by Cavaillon 66 · to Nîmes 64 · to Vaucluse 64 · to Villeneuve 63

 BAGNOLES-LES-BAINS 375 Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99 Bains 91 Balaruc 76 Bandols 123 Banges 285 Bar 163 Barcelonnette 341 · to Cuneo 341 · to St. Paul 341

 Bardonnechia 291 Barjols 143, 167 Barrème 166 Baths--Acqui 184 ---- Aix-les-Bains 283 ---- Aix-en-Provence 78 ---- Allevard 336 ---- Bagnols 375 ---- Balaruc 76 ---- Bourboule 383 ---- Bourbon-Lancy 358 ---- Bourbon l’Archambault 357 ---- Challes 284, 288 ---- Châteauneuf 369 ---- Châtelguyon 369 ---- Chateldon 367 ---- Cusset 365 ---- Foncaude 75 ---- Gréoulx 168 ---- La Motte 327 ---- Lucca 230 ---- Marlioz 284 ---- Mont-Dore 378 ---- Neyrac 94 ---- Pougues-les-Eaux 352 ---- Royat 376 ---- Sail 348 ---- St. Alban 348 ---- St. Galmier 348 ---- St. Giuliano 227 ---- St. Honoré 354 ---- St. Mart 377 ---- St. Nectaire 385 ---- Uriage 336 ---- Valdieri 181, 182 ---- Vals 103 ---- Vichy 359 ---- Vinadio 183

 Beage, Le 84 Beaucaire 67 Beauchastel 82 Beaufort 46 Beaujolais 29 Beaulieu 184 Beaune 23 Beaurières 48 Beausset 123

 Bec-de-l’Homme 331 Becket, Thomas à 11, 15, 17 Bedoin 56 Belgentier 129 Bellentre 321 Belleville 29 Belvedère 181 Berarde 330 Berlingots 56

 Bernadette Soubirous 353 Berre 77 Bersezio 342 Bessée 344 ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 344 Besse-en-Chandesse 381 Beza, T. 15 Billom 350 Blaizy-Bas 20 Bobbio 306 Bogliasco 219 Boileau 2 Bollène 50

 +Bologna+ 315 · Accademia 315 · Ai Servi (church), 318 · Annunziata 320 · Biblioteca Communale 318 · Bolognese school 315 · Cabs 315 · Certosa 320 · Galvani 316 · Guido’s grave 319 · Madonna di S. Luca 320 · Mezzofanti 316 · Pal. Mercanzia 318 · Pal. Zampieri 318 · Picture gallery 315 · S. Bartolommeo 318 · S. Domenico 319 · S. G. Maggiore 316 · S. Petronio 317 · S. Pietro 319 · S. Stefano 318 · S. Vitale 319 · Torre Asinelli 317 · Torre Garisenda 317 · University 316 Bondonneau 49

 +Bordighera+ 200 Bormes 142 Borne 89 Bossuet, J. B. 22 Bouillabaisse 113 Boulerie 147 Bourbon-Lancy baths 358 Bourbon-l’Archambault baths 357

 +Bourboule+ 383 Bourdeaux 47 Bourg-Argental 81 Bourg-d’Oisans 329 ---- to Lac Blanc 329 ---- to the Ecrin group 329 Bourgoin 322 Bourg-St. Andeol 97 Bourg-St. Maurice 321 Breuil, Le 373 Briançon 332 ---- to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345 ---- to Oulx 333 Briare 352 Brignoles 142, 167 Brillane 339 Brioude 374 Brive 386 Brogny 287 Brunoy 2 Buffon, Comte de 18 Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24 Busalla 279 Bussoleno 291

 CAGNES 165 Callian 162 Camaldoli 278 Camargue 70, 72 Campo-Rosso 201

 +Cannes+ 149 · Agents 149 · Adalbert 151, 159 · Antibes 154 · Auribeau 156 · Banks 151 · Brougham, Lord 151, 155 · Cabs 151 · Californie 152 · Canal 152, 162 · Cannet 154 · Castelaras 156 · Cemetery 152 · Churches 151 · Clausonne 154 · Climate 151 · Corniche 152 · Croisette, La 154 · Croix des Gardes 155 · Drives 152 · Estérels 155 · Hesperide 154 · Hotels and Pensions 149 · Iron Mask 157 · Lerins Islands 156 · Mont Vinaigre 156 · Mouans-Sartoux 156 · Mougins 156 · Napoule 154 · N. D. D’Esperance 151 · Observatories 151, 152 · Pegomas 156 · Pottery 153 · St. Anne 151 · St. Cassien 155 · St. Honorat 158 · St. Marguerite 157 · Théoule 155 · Vallauris 153

 Carnoules 142 Carpentras 54

 +Carqueyranne+ 141 · Mont Negre 141 · Mont Paradis 141

 Carrara 222 Casset, Le 332 Cassini, G. D. 201 Castellane 165 Castellaro 206 Cavaillon 66 Cayres 88 Celles-les-Bains 83 Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354 Certosa 184 Cervo 208 Cesanne 333 Cette 75 ---- to Balaruc 76 Chablis 14 Chabons 323 Chagny 24, 355 Chaise-Dieu 89 Challes 284, 288 Chalon-sur-Saône 26 Chambertin 23 Chambery 287 Chambon 380 Champeix 385 Charenton 2 Charmes 82 Charmettes, Les 288 Châteauneuf (Riom) 369 Châteauroux 343 Châtelard, Le 285 Chateldon 367 Châtelguyon 369 Châtillon 47 Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282 Châtillon-sur-Loing 351 Châtillon-sur-Loire 352 Chavanay 81 Cheilard 83 Chenal 341 Chiavari 220 Chiomonte 291 Chorges 342 Cirque-d’Annibal 321 Citeaux abbey 23 Claix 328, 345 Clamecy 354, 15 Clelles 345

 +Clermont-Ferrand+ 369 · Academie 371 · Botanic gardens 371 · Cathedral 370 · Coaches 370 · Hotels 369 · Notre Dame 371 · Pascal’s house 370 · Peter the Hermit 371 · Preserved fruits 370 · Puy de Dome 372 · Romagnat 372 · to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376 · to Lyons by St. Etienne 349

 Cluny 27 Cogoleto 210 Cogolin 145 Col Abriés 307 ---- Braus 183 ---- Brouis 183 ---- Cabres 48 ---- Cerise 181 ---- Chavade 89 ---- Croix 306 ---- Finestra 181 ---- Fremamorta 181 ---- Lautaret 331 ---- Longet 341 ---- Maddalena 342 ---- Maure 339 ---- Moulières 181 ---- Muselle 330 ---- Mulo 342 ---- Ribeyret 51 ---- Sestrières 307 ---- Tenda 183 ---- Traversette 308, 344 Colla, La 202 Colmars 339 Collobrières 130 Columbus 211 Condamine-Châtelard 342 Condamine, La 189

 Condrieu 81 · wine 81 Cornigliano 212 Corps 334 Correggio 313 Corsena 230 Cosne 352 Cote d’Or 22 Coupe-d’Aizac 94 Courmayeur 322 Courpière 91 Courty 350 Craponne 89 Cravant 14, 355 Crest 46 ---- to Aspres 47 Crissolo 308, 344 Croisière, La 50 Croix Blanche 105 Cruseilles 287 Cruzy-le-Chatel 18 Cuers 130, 142 Culinary terms xxiii Culoz 282 Cuneo 182, 279, 308 ---- to Barcelonnette 341 ---- to Nice 182 Cusset 365

 DARCEY 19 Darsac 89 ---- to Chaise-Dieu 89 Dauphin, Le 331 Decize 25 Demonte 342 Dent de Nivolet 288 Dent-du-Chat 282 Diano Marina 208 Die 47 Dieulefit 47 Digne 166 Digoin 358 Dijon 20 Doctors’ fees 110 Dolce-Acqua 201 Domène 336 Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357 Donzère 50 Doussard 287 Draguignan 145 Duingt 287 Duke of Berwick 356 Duranus 180 Durtol 377

 EAUX CHAUDES 166 Embrun 343 Enchastraye 330 Entraque 181 Epinac 24 Escragnolles 165 Espaly 89 Estaque, L’ 80 Estérels 146, 156 Etang 25 Eugene Sué 286 Eyguirande 386 Eze 186

 FAYENCE 145 Fenestrelle 307 Feurs 346 Fiesole 276 Finalmarina 209 Fix-St. Geneys 91 Flavigny 19

 +Florence+ 233 · Academy of Fine Arts 271 · Alkermes 268 · Alvernia 279 · Amerigo Vespucci 275 · Arcetri 248 · Arezzo 279 · Badia, La 263 · Baptistery 256 · Bargello 261 · Bello Sguardo 250 · Bibbiena 279 · Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266 · ---- Nazionale 236 · Bigallo, Il 257 · Boboli Gardens 246 · Brancacci chapel 252 · Brunelleschi’s crucifix 268 · Cab tariff 234 · Camaldoli 278 · Campanile 255 · Cascine 276 · Cathedral 252 · Certosa 250 · Dante 258 · David, by Michael Angelo 272 · Donatello’s crucifix 260 · Duomo 252 · Galileo 247, 260 · Galleria Uffizi 237 · Gallery of mosaics 273 · Guide books 234 · Hawkwood, John 255 · Hospital St. Giovanni 275 · Hotels and apartments 233 · House of Amerigo Vespucci 275 · ---- of Dante 274 · ---- of Galileo 248 · ---- of Macchiavelli 247 · ---- of Michael Angelo 263 · Ketterick, John 259 · Loggia Orcagna 235 · Luca della Robbia ware 263 · Masaccio 252 · Money-changers 234 · Monte Oliveto 251 · Mortuary chapel 255 · Mosaic manufacture 273 · Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267 · ---- Nat. Hist. 247 · National Museum 261 · Niobe 242 · Ognissanti 275 · Or St. Michele 257 · Palaces 273 · Palazzo Corsini 275 · ---- Riccardi 275 · ---- Strozzi 275 · ---- Torrigiani 276 · ---- Vecchio 274 · Park 276 · Pazzi chapel 260 · Perazzi chapel 259 · Piazza S. Annunziata 269 · ---- S. Croce 258 · ---- Signoria 235 · Piazzale Michelangiolo 249 · Picture gallery of S. Marco 270 · Pitti gallery 243 · ---- palace 246 · Pontassieve 278 · Porta Romana 248 · Post office 236 · Prefettura della Provincia 275 · Protestant churches 234 · Raphael 239 · Refectory of S. Croce 261 · Restaurants 234 · Rucellai chapel 268 · Sagrestia Nuova 265 · S. Annunziata 268 · S. Croce 258 · S. Giovannino 264 · S. Lorenzo 264 · S. Marco 270 · S. Maria del Carmine 252 · S. Maria del Fiore 252 · ---- Novella 267 · S. Michele 257 · S. Miniato 249 · S. Spirito 251 · Sarto, Andrea del 269 · Savonarola 270 · Sights 234 · Spezeria 268 · Straw-plaiting 277 · Torre del Gallo 248 · Tribuna 238 · ---- di Galileo 247 · Uffizi gallery 237 · Vallombrosa 278 · Venus de Medici 238 · Views 250

 Foncaude baths 75 Fontainebleau 3 Fontana 183 Fontenay abbey 19 Forcalqueiret 129 Fos 76 Fourchambault 353 Freaux, Les 331 Frejus 146 Freney, Le 331 Frontignan 75 · salt 75 · wine 75

 GALLINARIA 208 Gannat 368 Gap 340, ---- to Barcelonnette 340 ---- to Grenoble 342 Garabit, Pont de 374 Gardanne 80, 142, 338 ---- to Carnoules 142

 Genoa 212, 279 · Accademia 216 · Acquasola 216 · Albergo dei Poveri 218 · Cabs 213, · Cafés 213, · Campo-Santo 218 · Cathedral 217 · Corsos 213 · English church 212 · Hotels 212 · Money-changers 213 · Palazzo Adorno 216 · ---- Balbi 215 · ---- Doria 214 · ---- ---- (Giorgio) 216 · ---- Ducal 217 · ---- Durazzo 215 · ---- Municipicio 216 · ---- Rosso 216 · ---- Serra 216 · ---- Spinola 216 · Post office 216 · Royal Palace 214 · S. Ambrogio 217 · S. Annunziata 215 · S. Maria in Carignano 218 · S. Matteo 217 · S. Siro 215 · Shops 212 · Steamers 213 · Telegraph office 213 · Valdensian church 212 · Via Circonvallazione 213 · Via Milano 214

 Gerbier-de-Joncs 84 Gevrey 23 Giandola 183 Gien 351

 +Giens+ 140 · La Madrague 141 · Le Chateau 141 · Salt works 141 · Semaphore 141

 Gières 336 Gilly 358 Givors-Canal 81, 349 Gleyzin glacier 337 Golf Jouan 169 Goncelin 336 Gonfaron 131 Gourdon 163 Grand Som 324 Grande-Chartreuse 323 Grande Combe 375 Grasse 160 Grave, La 331

 +Grenoble+ 324 · Bastile 325 · Bayard 325 · Coaches 325, 327 · Gloves 327 · Hotels 324 · Library 326 · Picture gallery 326 · St. André 325 · St. Laurent 327 · to Barcelonnette 341 · to Briançon 328 · to Corps 333 · to Gap 342 · to La Motte-les-Bains 327 · to Sassenage 327

 Gréoulx 167 Grignan 49 Grimaud 144 Guerigny 354 Guillestre 344

 HAUTECOMBE ABBEY 284 Hermitage wine 43 Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321

 +Hyères+ 133 · Banks 133 · Butterflies 139 · Cabs 134 · Caterpillars 139 · Charles of Anjou 136 · Château, Le 136 · Climate 140 · Clubs 134 · Cork trees 139 · Costebelle 136 · Drives 134 · English Pharmacy 133 · Episcopal Chapel 133 · Fenouillet, Mont 137 · Game 138 · Hermitage 136 · Hotels 133 · Jardin d’Acclimatation 136 · La Plage 140 · Map 129 · Massillon 135 · Napoleon I. 136 · Oiseaux Monts. 128 · Olive trees 138 · Palm sticks 108 · Palms 136 · Paradis, Mont 141 · Pauline, La 142 · Pipes 139 · Potence 139 · Productions 139 · St. Louis 136 · St. Paul 135 · Stage coaches 134 · Temple Protestant 133 · Town water 139 · Trou des Fées 138 · View from Le Château 137

 ILES DE LERINS 157 Iles d’Or 131 Il Serraglio 230

 Issoire 372, · coach to St. Nectaire 385

 Isola Buona 201 Istres 76 Italian railway terms and time-tables 200, 291

 JAUJAC 95 Jausiers 342 Javie 339 Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22 Joigny 14 Jouques 79 Joyeuse 96

 LA BALME 282 La Barben 79 La Bastide 375 La Begude 93 La Bollene 181 La Chalp 306 La Chambre 289 La Charité 352 La Ciotat 122 La Crau 130 La Garde 128, 130 La Garde Fraiseinet 144 La Madrague 141 La Monta 344 La Mothe 94 La Palisse 346, 368 La Pauline 142 La Roche 14 La Salle 334 La Salette 334 La Sauvetat 88 La Seyne 123 La Valette 128 La Voulte 82

 Lachamp-Raphael 84 Laffrey 333 Lagnieu 282 Laigueglia 208 Lake Allos 339 ---- Annecy 286 ---- Bourget 282 ---- Paladru 323 ---- Pavin 381 ---- Thau 76 Lamartine 27 Lambesc 80 Langeac 91, 375 Langogne 95, 375 ---- to Le Puy 88 Lans-le-Bourg 290 Lantosque 180 Laqueuille 377 ---- to Mont-Dore 377 ---- to Bourboule 377 Larche 342 Largentière 96 ---- to Les Laumes 14 Larzac 106 Laudun 99 Laurent-du-Pont 323 Lauzet 331 Lauzet, Le 341 Lavandou 143

 Le Barroux 57 Le Beage 84 Le Bouchet 88 Le Buis 57 Le Creusot 25 Le Monastier 85 Le Pal 96 Le Peage de Roussillon 43 Le Pouzin 92 Le Puy 86 Le Teil 93 Le Trayas 149

 Leghorn 226 Lemons 191, 194, 201 Lerici 221 Les Arcs 145 Les Baux 67 Les Etables 85 Les Etages 330 Les Laumes 19 Les Marches 289, 338 Les Piles 51 Les Saintes Maries 72 Les Salins 141

 Leschaux 287 Levant, Ile du 132 Levens 180 Limone 183 L’Isle 64 Livet 329 Livron 46 Loano 209 Lorgues 145 Lord Clarendon 356 Lovagny 286 Luc 144

 +Lucca+ 227 · Cabs 227 · Cathedral 228 · Hotels 227 · Picture gallery 228 · S. Frediano 229 · S. Michele 229 Luc-en-Diois 48

 Lunel 72 · wine 73 Lurs 339 Luserna 305 Luzy 25

 +Lyons+ 29 · Antiquaille Hospital 33 · Aqueduct 34 · Boats, Penny 31 · Bourse 38 · Cabs 30 · Cathedral 34 · Cheese 42 · Condition des Soies 37 · Distances 29 · First sewing-machine 38 · Flourvière 32 · History 41 · Hospice 39 · Hôtel de Ville 37 · ---- Dieu 39 · Hotels 29 · Ile Barbe 42 · Jacquard’s loom 38 · Libraries 37, 38 · Minerals 37 · Mont Ceindre 41 · ---- d’Or 42 · Musée Archéologique 36 · ---- Guimet 40 · ---- Lapidaire 35 · ---- of Silk 38 · Notre Dame 33 · Observatoire Gay 33 · Palais de Justice 35 · ---- des Beaux Arts 35 · Park 40 · Picture gallery 36 · Place des Terreaux 37 · Post office 30 · Préfecture 37 · Railway station 30 · St. Bruno 37 · St. Irénée 34 · St. Martin d’Ainay 39 · St. Nizier 35 · St. Paul 33 · St. Pierre 35 · St. Polycarpe 37 · Sights 32 · Silk museum 38 · Squares (Places) 32 · Steamers 31 · Tête d’Or 40 · Theatres 31 · to Nîmes 81 · Trams 31 · Weavers 40 · Workhouse (Hospice) 39

 MACON 26 · wines 24 Maisons-Alfort 2 Malaucene 57 Manosque 66, 166, 168, 339 Marcols 84 Marlioz 284

 +Marseilles+ 80, 111 · Anglican chapel 112 · Arc de Triomphe 116 · Biblothèque 117 · Bishop Belsunce 116 · Boats 112 · Bonneveine 113 · Bouillabaisse 113 · Bourse 116 · Cabs 111 · Canal 77 · Cathedral 115 · Charities 119 · Château Borely 113 · Commerce 120 · Consigne 115 · Corniche 113 · Custom-house 112 · École des Beaux Arts 117 · History 120 · Hôtel de Ville 115 · Hotels 111 · If, island of 118 · Industries 119 · Joliette 115 · Lazarus’s grave 119 · Lycée 117 · Marseillaise, the 120 · Martigues 118 · Money-changers 112 · Musée d’Archéologie 113 · Notre Dame 117 · Observatory 115 · Palais de Justice 116 · ---- Longchamp 114 · Port 115 · Préfecture 116 · Reservoir 115 · St. Victor 117 · Sights 112, · Steamboats 112 · Temple 112 · to Grenoble 338 · to Menton 112 · Trams 113, · Zoological garden 115

 Martinet 341 Mary Magdalene 124, 145 Massa 223 Maurin 341 Mayres 89, 94 Meana 291 Meije 331 Melun 2 Menthon 287

 +Menton+ 193 · Annunciata 196 · Banks 194 · Bennet garden 197 · Berceau 196 · Cabs 194 · Cape St. Martin 195 · Castellar 196 · Castellon 197 · Caves 195 · Churches 194 · Ciotti 197 · Climate 199 · Gorvio 197 · Gourg-d’Ora 197 · Grimaldi 197 · Hanbury grounds 197 · Hotels 193 · Mont Baudon 196 · Monti 198 · Mortola 197 · St. Agnese 196 · ---- (village) 197 · St. Louis 196 · to Genoa 199

 Meounes 129 Meursault 24 Meymac 386 Meyrargues 80 Meze 76 Mezillac 84 Mirabeau 338 Mirabouc 306 Miramas 76 ---- to Port Bouc 76 Modane 290 ---- by road to Susa 290

 +Modena+ 313 · Campanile 314 · Cathedral 314 · Library 314 · Museo Lapidario 315 · Picture gallery 314 Moirans 324

 +Monaco+ 187 Monastier, Le 85 Mondoví 184, 304 Monestier de Clermont 345 Monètier de Briançon 332 Monge, Gaspard 23 Monistrol-d’Allier 91 Mons cave 163 Mont Agel 192 ---- Aulas 105 ---- Auxois 19 ---- Belledonne 336 ---- Cenis 290 ---- ---- Hospice 290 ---- Chenavari 93 ---- Coudon 125, 128 ---- Faron 127 ---- Ferrand 331 ---- Genèvre 333 ---- Gergovia 372 ---- Grand Sambiu 79 ---- Gravenne 96 ---- Meidassa 305, 344 ---- Mezenc 85 ---- Pelvoux 333, 344, 345 ---- Pilat 348 ---- Pirchiriano 291 ---- Protomagno 278 ---- Sancy 381 ---- Semnoz 287 ---- Taillefer 329 ---- Ventoux 56, 57 ---- Vestide 96 ---- Viso 305, 344 Montagnac 88 Montallieu 281 Montargis 351 Montauroux 162 Montbard 18 Montbrison 349 Montchanin 25 Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378 ---- to Issoire 385 ---- to St. Nectaire 385 Mont Dauphin 306, 307, 343 ---- to Saluzzo 344 Monte Carlo 189, 192 Monte Grosso 210 Montélimart 48 Montereau 10 Montgeron 2 Mont-Majour 71 Montmélian 167, 289, 338

 +Montpellier+ 73 · École de Médecine 74 · Musée Fabre 74 · to Palavas 75 · wine 75 Montpezat 96 Montrieux 129 Moret 10 Mornas 46 Moulins 355 ---- Les 190 Moustiers Ste. Marie 167 Moutiers on Doron 320 Mure, La 334, 342 Murols 382

 NAPOLEON I. 64 Napoule 156 Narce 89, 94

 +Nervi+ 219 Neussargues 374 Nevers 353 Neyrac 94

 +Nice+ 169 · Banks 172 · Booksellers 172 · Cabs 173 · Cafés 172 · Carabacél 177 · Caterina Segurmana 176 · Cathedral 176 · Château, Le 175 · Churches 173 · Cimiés 177 · Climate 174 · Clubs 172 · Column 177 · Confectioneries 173 · Contes 174 · Crois-de-Marbre 177 · Diligences 173 · Drives 178 · Falicon 180 · Garibaldi 176 · Hotels and Pensions 170 · House agents 172 · Jardin Public 178 · Luther 176 · Massena 177 · Memorial chapel 176 · Money-changers 172 · Mont Chauve 179 · Monte Carlo 178 · Museum 178 · Observatory 180 · Paganini 176 · Palais de Lascaris 176 · Pharmacies 172 · Post office 172 · Promenade 175 · Protestant churches 173 · Public library 172 · St. André 179 · St. Augustin 176 · St. Jean 178 · St. Pons 179 · Val Obscur 178 · Vallon des Fleurs 179 · Vallons 174 · Villa Clery 179 · Villefranche 178, 184

 Nicholas V. 221 Nieigles 95 Nîmes 101, 376 ---- to Vigan 105 Nolay 24 Noli 209 Novi 279 Nuits 23 Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18 Nyons 50 ---- to Serres 51

 OLBON 83 Olliergues 91 Ollioules 123 Olive tree 138 Orange 51 ---- Prince of 52 Orcival 380 Orgon 66 Ortolans 56 Ospedaletti 201, 202 Oulx 291, 333 Ours-Mons 88

 PALAVAS 75 Paradisino 278 Paray-le-Monial 27 Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346 ---- to Marseilles 1 ---- Directions 1 ---- to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes 351 ---- to Marseilles by Lyons 1 ---- to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281 ---- to Turin by Grenoble 322

 Parma 310 Parmesan cheese 313 Pas-des-Lanciers 80, 88, 376 Pegli 211 Pelago 278 Pelussin 81 Perinaldo 201 Perosa 307 ---- to Cesanne 307 ----to Mont-Dauphin 307 Pertuis 77, 338 Petite Afrique 186 Petrarch 65 Peyerbelle 89, 95 Peyraud 81 Peyrolles 79 Piacenza 309 Pian Fiorenza 308 ---- del Ré 308 Pierre-Chatel 334 Pierrefeu 130 Pietrasanta 223 Pigna 201 Pinerolo 306

 +Pisa+ 223 · Baptistery 225 · Cabs 224 · Campo Santo 225 · Cathedral 224 · Hotels 223 · Leaning Tower 225 · Post office 224 · Santa Maria 226 · University 226

 Pistoja 231 Polignac 89 Pomaretto 307 Pomponiana 143 Pontaix 47 Pontassieve 277 Pont Avignon 99 ---- d’Arc 97 ---- de-la-Beaune 95 ---- du-Gard 104 ---- Ecofier 329 ---- Gibaud 377 ---- St. Esprit 98 Pontcharra 337 Pontigny 16 Pontius Pilate 43 Porquerolles 131 Port Bouc 76 ---- to Arles 76 Port Cros 132 ---- Grau du Roi 73 ---- Man 132 ---- St. Louis 72 Porto Maurizio 207 ---- Oneglia 208 ---- Venere 220 Portofino 220 Pougues-les-Eaux 352 Pouilly-sur-Loire 352 Pourcheyrolles 95 Pouzin 92 Pra 211 Pradelles 89, 95 Prades (Ardèche) 95 Prato 232 Praz 289 Pré-St Didier 321 Prices 109 Privas 92 Puget, Pierre 80 Puget-Theniers 182 Puligny 24 Puy-de-Dome 372

 QUEYRAS 344 Quincy abbey 18

 RANDAN 366, 368 Rapallo 220 Reggio Emilia 313 Remoulins 99 Resin baths 48, 57 Rians 79 Riez 166, 168 Riom 369 Riouperoux 329 Rioutort 96 Ris 367 Rives 323

 +Riviera, the+ 107 · Climate 108 · Cost of living 109 · road to 1 · Vegetation 108

 Roanne 346, 348 Robilante 183 Rocavignon 160 Roche Cevins 320 Rochemaure 92 Rocher Blanc 164 ---- Noir 165 Rognac 77, 376 ---- to Aix-en-Provence 77 ---- to Roquefavour 77 Romaneche 28 Roquebillère 181 Roquebrune 192 Roquefavour aqueduct 77 Roquemaure 99 Roquotaillado tunnel 162 Rosans 51 Roumoulles 168 Rousseau, J. J. 287, 288 Rouvray 16 Royat 376 Ruoms 96 Ruota 201

 SAILLANS 47 Sail-les-Bains 348 Saincaize 355 St. Agnan 358 St. Agnes 131 St. Alban 348 St. Ambroix 96 St. André-le-Gaz 322 ---- to Chambery 322 St. Auban 166, 339 St. Baume (Agay) 147 ---- (Bouches du Rhône) 144 St. Bernard 27, 287 St. Cannat 79 St. Cesaire 162 St. Chamas 76, 376 St. Christophe 330 St. Cyre 123 St. Didier 57 St. Edmund 17 St. Etienne 346, 349 · manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347 St. Eulalie 96 St. Florentin 16 ---- to Chablis 16 St. Galmier 346, 348 St. Georges-d’Aurac 91, 374 St. Germain 321 St. Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29 St. Germain-des-Fossés 358 St. Gilles 72 St. Honorat 158 St. Honoré baths 354 St. Honoré-les-Bains 25, 354 St. Jean 185 St. Jean du Bruel 106 St. Julien-du-Sault 13 St. Louis (king) 73 St. Marcel caves 98 St. Marcellin 324 ---- to Pont-en-Royan 324 St. Marguerite 157 St. Mart 377 St. Martin 98 St. Martin-Lantosque 181 St. Maurice 2, 50 St. Maximin 143 St. May 51 St. Menet 122 St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289 St. Nazaire 123 St. Nectaire 385 St. Pardoux 357 St. Paul-Trois-Château 50 St. Péray 82 · wine 82 St. Pêre 15 St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289 ---- to Annecy 289 ---- to Courmayeur 320 St. Pierre-d’Argenson 48 St. Pierreville 83 St. Pilon 144 St. Pons 341 St. Priest 322 St. Privat 91 St. Rambert-d’Albon 43 +St. Raphael+ 147 St. Remi-en-Rollat 368 St. Remy 67 St. Sauveur 83, 182 St. Seine 19 St. Thomé 97 St. Tropez 145 St. Vallier 43, 165 St. Yorre 366

 Salon 66 Saluzzo 307, 344 ---- to Cuneo 307 ---- to Mont Dauphin 308 ---- to Paesana 308 ---- to Sampeyre 308, 344 Sampierdarena 212 San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291 San Chiaffredo 308 San Dalmazzo 308 San Giuliano 227

 +San Remo+ 203 · Cabs 203 · Ceriana 204 · Climate 204 · Hotels 203 · Madonna 205 · Monte Bignone 205 · Poggia 204 · St. Romolo 205 · ---- to Taggia 207

 San Stefano 207 San Terenzo 221 Sancerre 352

 +Santa Margherita+ 220 Saou 46 Sarzana 221 Sassenage 327 Sauclières 105 Saugues 91 Saulieu 16 Saut-du-Loup 373 Savigny 24 Savines 343 Savona 209

 Sea bathing 110 Séchilienne 329 Seez 321 Seine, source of 19 Semur 16 Senez 166 Sens 10 Sept Laux 337 Sermizelles 15 Serres 51, 340 Serrières 81 Sestri Levante 220 ---- Ponente 212 Settignano 277 Seyne-les-Alpes 339

 Shelley 221, 223 Sisteron 339 Six-Fours 123 Solliès-Pont 129, 142 Solliès-Ville 129, 142 Sorgues 54 Sospello 182 Source of the Loire 84 Souvigny 356 Spezia 220 Steam trams 304 Sue du Pal 96 Susa 291 Suze-le-Rousse 50

 TAGGIA 206, 207 Tain 43 Talloires 286 Tanlay 17 Tarascon 66, 376 · Martha’s grave 67 Taulignan 49 Tavernettes, Les 290 Teil 93 Tenay 282 Tenda 183 Termignon 290

 Theoule 155 Thezièrs 99 Thiers 367, 350 Thomery 10 Thueyts 94 Thuile 321 Tonnerre 17 Torre-Péllice 305 ---- to Mont Dauphin 306

 +Toulon+ 124 · Arsenal 125 · Bagne 125 · Balaguier 127 · Belle-Poule 124 · Cap Brun 128 · Cathedral 126 · Dardenne 128 · Diligences 129 · Hotels 124 · Le Pradet 128 · Le Tamaris 127 · Mont Faron 127 · Omnibuses 124, 128 · Port, the 124 · Puget’s house 126 · Rue Lafayette 126 · St. François de Paule 126 · St. Mandrier 127 · St. Marguerite 128 · Smith, Sir Sydney 126 · Temple Protestant 124 · Town Hall 126 Tour-du-Pin 322 Tournon 82 Tournus 26 Trayas, Le 148 Trets 144 Trévoux 29 Trinité-Victor 182 Troy weight 13 Troyes 11 Truffles 55 Tulle 386 Turbie, La 191, 192

 +Turin+ 292 · Accademia Albertina 300 · Armoury 297 · Biblioteca del Ré 297 · Booksellers 293 · Cabs 292 · Cafés 293 · Castello, the 299 · Cathedral 298 · Cavour house 294 · ---- monument 301 · Cemetery 302 · Gran Madre di Dio 300 · Gressini 303 · Hotels 292 · King’s palace 298 · La Consolata 301 · Medagliere del Ré 297 · Money-changers 293 · Monuments 293, 301 · Museo Civico 299 · Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294 · Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297 · Palazzo Carignano 297 · ---- dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294 · ---- di Citta 301 · Piazza Carlo Felice 293 · ---- dello Statuto 293 · ---- San Carlo 293 · ---- Vitt. Emanuele 300 · Post and telegraph offices 293 · Railway stations 293 · Superga, La 302 · Teatro Regio 298 · Theatres 293 · to Cuneo 153 · to Florence 309 · to Genoa 279 · to Savona 183 · Trams 292 · University 300 · Via di Po 300 · Wines 303

 UBAYE 341 Uriage baths 336 Usclades 96 Uzès 99

 VAISON 53 Val Louise 333, 345 Valbonne 98 Valdieri 181, 182 Valence 44 ---- coaches from 45 Vallauris 154 Valleraugue 105 Vallombrosa 278 Vallon 97 Valréas 49 Vals 93 Var 169 Varazze 210 Varennes 26 Varzy 354 Vassivières 381 Vaucluse 64 Vaugris 43 Velars 20 Venanson 181 Vence 163 Vence-Cagnes 169 Vencigliato 277 Venosc 330

 Ventimiglia 200 Vernet 91 ---- (Digne) 339 Verrey 19 Vesseaux 93 Veynes 340 Vezelay 15 Viareggio 223

 +Vichy+ 359 Vienne 42 Vif 345 Vigan 105 ---- to Millau 105 Villa Pallavicini 211 Villard-d’Arène 331 Villefort 375 ---- to Bagnol-les-Bains 375 Villefranche 184 Villefranche-sur-Saône 29 Villeperdrix 51 Ville-la-Vieille 344 Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63 · Hospital 63 · Marchioness de Ganges 63 Villeneuve-St. George 2 Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13 Vinadio 183, 342 Virieu 322 Virieu-le-Grand 282 Viviers 97 Vizille 328, 333, 345 Voghera 309 Voiron 323 · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323 Voltri 211 Volvic 369, 377 Volx 339 Voreppe 324 · coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324 Vougeot 23 Voulte, La 82 Voute-Chilhac 91

 WALDENSES, OR VAUDOIS 305 Waldensian valleys 304 Warrens, Mme. 286, 288 Wellington 2

THE END. 

_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_. 

 * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Errors and Inconsistencies

 LIST OF MAPS: +Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 [text has “191”]

A few points are missing “from” or “to” mileages. They have not beenindividually noted. Two occurrences of “Coreggio” for “Correggio” havebeen silently corrected. 

Map references are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy” map was printedtwice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is givenas “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as “page 27” and “page26”. “Map. P. 199” and “p. 200” both refer to the Italian Riviera map;it is also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map of Hyères (p. 129) is twicecited as “p.  177”. 

 Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, [_elsewhere “Médicis”_] Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV. +), [_closing parenthesis missing_] H. Rigaud, 1552-1745 [_text unchanged: Hyacinthe Rigaud 1659-1743_] 23 m. E. From Crest, and 34 m. W. From Aspres, is Die [_text has “23 m. L. ”_] [Pisa] in the Lung’ Arno Regio [_text has “Lung ’Arno”_] [headnote] . .. S. FREDIANO [_text has “S. FREDIANA”_] E vi mori il 6 Giugno 1861. ” [_close quote missing_] and for description, Black’s _France_, North half). [_closing parenthesis missing_]

 +Avignon to Nîmes+ . .. [_text has 110 for 101 and 114 for 104_] [Florence] . .. In the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. [_text has 166 for 266_] From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line [_text has 246 for 346_]

 INDEX _Inconsistencies between Index and body text were changed when one form was clearly wrong; others are simply noted. Page references that were wrong by only one page were disregarded. _

 Avignon: St Didier [_spelled “Dedier” in body text_] Bardonnecchia [_text has “Bardonnechia”_] Estérels [_spelled “Estérel” in body text_] Florence: S. Maria del Fiore [_text has “del Fiori”_] Hyeres: Oiseaux Monts 138 [_text has 128_] Menton: Annunciata [_spelled “Annonciade” in body text_] --: Gorvio [_spelled “Gorbio” in body text_] --: Castellon 199 [_text has 197_] Rocher Blanc [_spelled “Roche-Blanche” in body text_] San Remo: Poggio [_text has “Poggia”_] St Michael [_spelled “Michel” in body text_]