THE

PRACTICAL DISTILLER:

OR

AN INTRODUCTION TO MAKING

WHISKEY, GIN, BRANDY, SPIRITS, &c. &c. OF BETTER QUALITY, AND IN LARGER QUANTITIES, THAN PRODUCED BY THE PRESENTMODE OF DISTILLING, FROM THE PRODUCEOF THE UNITED STATES:

_SUCH AS_RYE, CORN, BUCK-WHEAT, APPLES, PEACHES, POTATOES, PUMPIONSAND TURNIPS. 

_WITH DIRECTIONS_HOW TO CONDUCT AND IMPROVE THE PRACTICALPART OF DISTILLING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 

_TOGETHER WITH DIRECTIONS_FOR PURIFYING, CLEARING AND COLOURING WHISKEY, MAKING SPIRITS SIMILAR TO FRENCHBRANDY, &c. FROM THE SPIRITS OF RYE, CORN, APPLES, POTATOES, &c. &c. 

_AND SUNDRY EXTRACTS OF APPROVED RECEIPTS_FOR MAKING CIDER, DOMESTIC WINES, AND BEER. 

BY SAMUEL McHARRY, OF LANCASTER COUNTY, PENN. 

PUBLISHED AT HARRISBURGH, (PENN. )BY JOHN WYETH. ----1809. ----

DISTRICT OF _PENNSYLVANIA_, TO WIT:

[Illustration: SEAL. ]

Be it remembered, that onthe twenty fourth day of November, in the thirty-third year of the Independenceof the United States ofAmerica, A. D. 1808, SAMUEL McHARRY, of the said district, hath deposited in thisOffice, the title of a Book, the right whereof heclaims as author, in the words following, to wit:

_The Practical Distiller: or an introduction to makingWhiskey, Gin, Brandy, Spirits, &c. &c. Ofbetter quality, and in larger quantities, than producedby the present mode of distilling, from the produceof the United States: such as Rye, Corn, Buckwheat, Apples, Peaches, Potatoes, Pumpions andTurnips. With directions how to conduct and improvethe practical part of distilling in all its branches. Together with directions for purifying, clearingand colouring Whiskey, making Spirits similar toFrench Brandy, &c. From the Spirits of Rye, Corn, Apples, Potatoes &c. &c. And sundry extracts ofapproved receipts for making Cider, domestic Wines, and Beer. By SAMUEL McHARRY, of Lancastercounty, Pennsylvania. _

In conformity to the act of the Congress of theUnited States, entitled, "An act for the encouragementof Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and proprietorsof such copies during the times therein mentioned. "And also to the act, entitled, "An act supplementaryto an act, entitled, 'An act for the encouragementof Learning, by securing the copiesof Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors andproprietors of such copies during the time thereinmentioned, ' and extending the benefits thereofto the arts of designing, engraving, and etchinghistorical and other prints. "

D. CALDWELL, _Clerk of the district of Pennsylvania. _

CONTENTS:

 _Page_SECTION I_Observations on Yeast. _ 25_Receipt for making stock Yeast. _ 27_Vessel most proper for preserving_ do. 30_To ascertain the quality of_ do. 31_To renew_ do. 32_Observations on the mode in which distillers generally work_ do. 33_How stock Yeast may be kept good for years. _ 34_To make best Yeast for daily use. _ 36SECTION II_Observations on the best wood for hogsheads. _ 39_To sweeten by scalding_ ditto. 41Ditto, _burning_ do. 42SECTION III_To mash rye in the common mode. _ 44_Best method of distilling rye. _ 45_To mash one-third rye with two-thirds corn. _ 47Do. _an equal quantity of rye and corn. _ 49Do. _two-thirds rye and one-third corn. _ 51Do. _corn. _ 54_To make four gallons to the bushel. _ 55_To know when grain is sufficiently scalded. _ 58_Directions for cooling off. _ 59_To ascertain when rye works well. _ 61_To prevent hogsheads from working over. _ 62SECTION IV_Observations on the quality of rye. _ 63_Mode of chopping rye. _ 64Do. _or grinding indian corn. _ 65Do. _malt. _ 66_To choose malt. _ 67_To build a malt-kiln. _ 67_To make malt for stilling. _ 69_Of hops. _ 69SECTION V_How to order and fill the singling still. _ 69_Mode of managing the doubling still. _ 71_On the advantages of making good whiskey. _ 73_Distilling buckwheat. _ 77_Distilling potatoes, with observations. _ 78_Receipt to prepare potatoes for distilling. _ 82_Distilling pumpions. _ 83Do. _turnips. _ 83Do. _apples. _ 84_To order_ do. _in the hogsheads. _ 85_To work_ do. _fast or slow. _ 86_To know when apples are ready for distilling. _ 87_To fill and order the singling still for apples. _ 88_To double apple-brandy. _ 90_To prepare peaches. _ 91_To double and single_ do. 92SECTION VI_Best mode of setting stills. _ 93_To prevent the planter from cracking. _ 98_Method of boiling more than one still by a single fire. _ 99_To set a doubling still. _ 100_To prevent the singling still from rusting. _ 101SECTION VII_How to clarify whiskey. _ 102_To make a brandy, from rye, spirits or whiskey, to resemble French Brandy. _ 103_To make a spirit from_ ditto, _to resemble Jamaica spirits. _ 104Do. _Holland gin. _ 105Do. _country gin, and clarifying same. _ 107_On fining liquors. _ 110_On coloring liquors. _ 111_To correct the taste of singed whiskey. _ 112_To give an aged flavor. _ 113SECTION VIII_Observations on weather. _ 115Do. _water. _ 117_Precautions against fire. _ 119SECTION IX_Duty of the owner of a distillery. _ 120Do. _of a hired distiller. _ 123SECTION X_The profits arising from a common distillery. _ 125Do. _from a patent distillery. _ 127_Of hogs. _ 129_Diseases of hogs. _ 133_Feeding cattle and milk cows. _ 134SECTION XI_Observations on erecting distilleries. _ 135SECTION XII_On Wines. _ 139_Receipt for making ditto, from the autumn blue grape. _ 140Ditto, _from currants. _ 142Do. _for making cider, British mode. _ 143Do. Do. _American mode. _ 145Do. _for an excellent American wine. _ 150Do. Do. _honey wine. _ 153_To make elderberry wine. _ 156Do. Do. _cordial. _ 157SECTION XIII_Of brewing beer. _ 160_Of the brewing vessels. _ 160_Of cleaning and sweetening casks and brewing vessels. _ 161_Of mashing or raking liquors. _ 163_Of working the liquor. _ 167_Of fining malt liquors. _ 170_Season for brewing. _ 172_To make elderberry beer or ebulum. _ 173_To make improved purl. _ 174_To brew strong beer. _ 175_To make china ale. _ 176_To make any new liquor drink as stale. _ 177_To recover sour ale. _ 177_To recover liquor that is turned bad. _ 178_Directions for bottling. _ 178_To make ale or beer of cooked malt. _ 179_To make treacle (or molasses) beer. _ 181

PREFACE. 

When I first entered on the business of Distilling, I was totallyunacquainted with it. I was even so ignorant of the process, as not toknow that fermentation was necessary, in producing spirits from grain. Ihad no idea that fire being put under a still, which, when hot enough, would raise a vapour; or that vapour when raised, could be condensed bya worm or tube passing through water into a liquid state. In short, myimpressions were, that chop-rye mixed with water in a hogshead, and letstand for two or three days; and then put into a still, and fire beingput under her, would produce the spirit by boiling up into the worm, andto pass through the water in order to cool it, and render it palatablefor immediate use--and was certain the whole art and mystery could belearned in two or three weeks, or months at farthest, as I hadfrequently met with persons who professed a knowledge of the business, which they had acquired in two or three months, and tho' those men wereesteemed distillers, and in possession of all the necessary art, in thisvery abstruse science; I soon found them to be ignorant blockheads, without natural genius, and often, without principle. 

Thus benighted, and with only the above light and knowledge, I enteredinto the dark, mysterious and abstruse science of distilling, a businessprofessed to be perfectly understood by many, but in fact notsufficiently understood by any. For it presents a field for the learned, and man of science, for contemplation--that by a judicious andsystematic appropriation and exercise of certain elements, valuable andsalutary spirits and beverages may be produced in great perfection, andat a small expense, and little inconvenience, on almost every farm inour country. 

The professed chymist, and profound theorist may smile at my ideas, butshould any one of them ever venture to soil a finger in the practicalpart of distilling, I venture to say, he would find more difficulty inproducing good yeast, than in the process of creating oxygen or hydrogengas. Scientific men generally look down on us, and that is principallyowing to the circumstance of so many knaves, blockheads and conceitedcharacters being engaged in the business. --If then, the subject could beimproved, I fancy our country would yield all the necessary liquors, and in a state of perfection, to gratify the opulent, and please theepicure. 

I had no difficulty in finding out a reputed great distiller, whosedirections I followed in procuring every necessary ingredient andmaterial for distilling, &c. He was industrious and attentive, andproduced tolerable yield, but I soon found the quantity of the runs tovary, and the yield scarcely two days alike. I enquired into the cause, of him, but his answers were, he could not tell; I also enquired ofother distillers, and could procure no more satisfactory answer--someattributed it to the water, others to witchcraft, &c. &c. 

I found them all ignorant--I was equally so, and wandered in the dark;but having commenced the business, I determined to have light on thesubject; I thought there must be books containing instructions, but tomy surprise, after a diligent search of all the book-stores andcatalogues in Pennsylvania, I found there was no American work extant, treating on this science--and those of foreign production, so atvariance with our habits, customs, and mode of economy, that I wascompelled to abandon all hope of scientific or systematic aid, and moveon under the instructions of those distillers of our neighborhood, whowere little better informed than myself, but who cheerfully informed meof their experiments, and the results, and freely communicated theiropinions and obligingly gave me their receipts. In the course of myprogress, I purchased many receipts, and hesitated not to procureinformation of all who appeared to possess it, and sometimes at a heavyexpense, and duly noted down all such discoveries and communications--mademy experiments from time to time, and in various seasons, carefullynoting down the results. Having made the business my constant and onlystudy, carefully attending to the important branch of making yeast, andstudying the cause and progress of fermentation, proceeding withnumerous experiments, and always studying to discover the cause of everyfailure, or change, or difference in the yield. I could, after fouryears attention, tell the cause of such change, whether in the water, yeast, fermentation, quality of the grain, chopping the grain, or inmashing, and carefully corrected it immediately. By a thus close andindefatigable attention, I brought it to a system, in my mind, and to adegree of perfection, that I am convinced nothing but a long series ofpractice could have effected. 

From my record of most improved experiments, I cheerfully gavereceipts to those who applied, and after their adoption obtaining somecelebrity, I found applications so numerous, as to be troublesome, andto be impossible for me to furnish the demands gratis, of consequence, Iwas compelled to furnish to some, and refuse others; a conduct sopregnant with partiality, and a degree of illiberality naturally gaverise to murmurs. 

My friends strongly recommended a publication of them, the planrequiring the exercise of talents, order and method, with which Ipresumed myself not sufficiently versed, I for sometime obstinatelyrefused, but at length and after reiterated solicitation, I consented toenter on the talk, under a flattering hope of affording usefulinformation to those of my country engaged in the distillation ofspirits from the growth of our native soil, which together with thefollowing reasons, I offer as the only apology. 

1st. I observed many distillers making fortunes, whilst othersexercising an equal share of industry, and of equal merit were sinkingmoney, owing to a want of knowledge in the business. 

2d. In taverns I often observed foreign liquors drank in preference tothose of domestic manufacture, though really of bad quality, possessingpernicious properties acquired from ingredients used by those in ourcommercial towns, who brew and compose brandies, spirits, and wines, often from materials most injurious to health, and this owing to so muchbad liquor being made in our country, from which the reputation ofdomestic spirit has sunk. Whilst, in fact, we can make domestic spiritsof various materials, which with a little management and age, will besuperior to any of foreign produce. 

3d. By making gin, &c. As good if not better, we might in a few years, meet those foreign merchants in their own markets, and undersell them;which we certainly could do, by making our liquors good, and giving themthe same age. The transportation would of consequence improve them in anequal degree, for the only advantage their liquors of the same age haveover our good liquors, is the mildness acquired by the friction in thewarm hold of the ship in crossing the ocean. 

And moreover as liquors will be drank by people of all standings insociety, I flattered myself I could improve our liquors, render themmore wholesome to those whose unhappy habits compel a too free use ofardent spirits, and whose constitutions may have been doubly injuredfrom the pernicious qualities of such as they were compelled to use. Forthere are in all societies and of both sexes, who will drink and usethose beverages to excess, even when there exists a moral certainty, that they will sustain injury from such indulgence, and as an evidenceof my hypothesis, I offer the free use of coffee, tea, &c. Souniversally introduced at the tables of people of every grade. 

The wise Disposer of worlds, very happily for mankind, permits theexhibition of genius, mind and talents, from the peasant and lowerorder, as well as from the monarch, the lord, and the opulent. To Europethey of course are not confined--Genius has already figured in ourhemisphere--The arts and sciences are becoming familiar, they risespontaneously from our native soil, and bid fair to vie with, if notout-shine accomplished Europe. In possession, then, of all the necessarymaterials, ingredients and requisites, I would ask why we cannot affordardent spirits and wines equal to those imported; and thus raise ourcharacter to a standing with other countries, and retain those millionsof dollars at home, which are yearly shipped abroad for those foreignliquors, so common, so universally in use, and much of which soadulterated, as to be followed, when freely used, with unhappyconsequences. Would men of capital and science, turn their attention todistillations, from the produce of our own country, preserve the liquoruntil age and management would render it equal, if not superior to anyimported; is it not probable that it would become an article of export, and most sensibly benefit our country at large. 

Considerations such as those have combined to determine a publication ofmy work; fully apprised of the scoffs of pedants, kicks, bites andbruises of critics--but I hope they will find latitude for the exerciseof a share of compassion, when I inform them candidly, that a mill anddistillery, or still house, were substituted for, and the only collegeand academy in which I ever studied, and those studies were broken, andduring the exercise of my business, as a miller and distiller. 

That it contains errors in the diction and perspicuity, I will readilyconfess--but that it is in substance true, and contains much usefulinformation, I must declare as an indisputable fact. And though the roadI travelled was a new one, without compass, chart, or even star to steerby, not even a book to assist me in thinking, or cheer me in my gloomypassage--seeking from those springs of nature, and inherent endowmentsfor consolatory aid--pressing on a frequently exhausted mind, forresources and funds, to accomplish the objects of my pursuits--notdenying but that I met many of my fellow-beings, who cheerfully aided mewith all the information in their power, and to whom I now present mythanks--I must acknowledge, I think my labors and exertions will proveuseful to those of less experience than mine, in which event I shallfeel a more ample remuneration for my exertions, than the price askedfor one of those volumes. 

Could I have witnessed the publication of a similar work by a man ofscience and education, mine should never have appeared. But it wouldseem the learned and scientific have never considered a work of the kindas meriting their attention; a circumstance deeply to be regretted, as afiner colouring to a work of the same properties and value oftenprocures celebrity, demand and currency. My object is to be useful, mystyle plain, and only laboured to be rendered easy to be understood, andconvey the necessary instruction to those who may honor this work with aperusal, or resort to it for information, and that it may be useful tomy countrymen, is the sincere wish of

THE AUTHOR. 

INTRODUCTION. 

It is not more than twenty years since whiskey was first offered forsale in the seaport towns in large quantities; and then, owing to itsbadness, at a very low price. Since that period it has been gainingground yearly, and at this time, it is the second great article ofcommerce, in the states of Pennsylvania and Maryland. 

In the interior of these states, it has nearly excluded the use offoreign distilled spirits, and I fancy might be made so perfectly pureand nice, as to ultimately supersede the use of any other throughout theUnited States. 

To assist in effecting this, the greatest attention should be paid tocleanliness, which in a distillery is absolutely necessary, the want ofwhich admits of no excuse, where water is had without price. 

If a distiller does not by a most industrious well-timed care andattention, preserve every utensil perfectly sweet and clean, he mayexpect, notwithstanding he has well attended to the other branches, butindifferent whiskey and not much of it. 

If, for instance, every article, or only one article in the compositionof yeast be sour or dirty, that one article will most assuredly injurethe whole; which being put into a hogshead of mashed grain, soon impartsits acidity or filth to the whole mass, and of course will reduce thequantity and quality of the spirit yielded from that hogshead. Cleanliness in every matter and thing, in and about a distillery becomesan indispensable requisite, without a strict observance of which theundertaker will find the establishment unproductive and injurious to hisinterest. Purity cannot exist without cleanliness. Cleanliness in thehuman system will destroy an obstinate itch, of consequence, it is theactive handmaid of health and comfort, and without which, decency doesnot exist. 

Care is another important and necessary consideration, and a basisnecessary, on which to erect a distillery, in order to ensure itproductive of wealth and reputation. Care and industry will ensurecleanliness; an eye of care must be extended to every thing, thatnothing be lost, that every thing be in its proper place and order, thatevery thing be done in due time; the business must be well timed, andtime well economised, as it ranks in this, as in every other businessvery high. Let a judicious attention be paid to care, cleanliness, andindustry, and when united with a competent knowledge of the differentbranches of the distilling business, the character of a compleatpractical distiller is perfect. 

With such a distiller, and a complete still-house, furnished with everynecessary utensil for carrying on the business--it cannot fail to provea very productive establishment, and present to the world, from thematerials of our own farms, a spirit as wholesome, and well flavored andas healthy as any spirit whatever--the produce or yield of any country, provided it be permitted to acquire the same age. 

What a grand and great idea strikes the thinking scientific mind, onentering a complete and clean distillery, with an intelligent cleanlydistiller, performing his duty in it. 

To see the four elements, each combining to produce (with the assistanceof man) an article of commerce and luxury, and at the same time, anecessary beverage to man. The earth producing the grain, hops andutensils, which a combination of fire and water reduces into a liquid byfermentation, and when placed in the still to see air engaging fire toassist her in reducing the liquid that fire and water had produced, intoa vapour, or air, and afterwards to see fire abandoning air, andassisting water to reduce it into a liquid by means of the condensingtubes, and then to consider the number of hands employed in keeping thedistillery a going, will present one other patriotic idea. The farmerwith all his domestics and people, engaged in the cultivation of therye, corn, &c. The wood choppers--the haling--the coopers engaged inmaking casks--the hands engaged in feeding cattle and the pork--haling, barrelling and selling the whiskey, spirits, pork, &c. The produce ofthe distillery, presenting subject for commerce, and employ for themerchant, mechanic and mariner--and all from our own farms. 

After seeing the distillery afford employment for so many hands, breadto their families, and yielding the means of an extensive revenue andincrease of commerce--with a flattering prospect of completelyannihilating the use of foreign liquors in our country, and therebysaving the expenditure of millions of dollars; and ultimately renderingour liquors an article of export and source of wealth--I presume everymind will be struck with the propriety of encouraging a branch ofbusiness so promising in wealth and comfort. 

The following receipts are intended to convey all the instructionnecessary in the science of distilling, and producing from the growth ofour own farms, the best spirits of every description, and such as Iflatter myself will supersede the use of all imported liquors, andthereby fulfil the views and wishes of

THE AUTHOR. 

PRACTICAL DISTILLER. 

SECTION I. 

_Observations on Yeast. _

That yeast is the main spring in distilling, is acknowledged by alldistillers, tho' but few if them understand it, either in its nature oroperation; tho' many pretend a knowledge of the grand subject offermentation, and affect to understand the best mode of making stockyeast, and to know a secret mode unknown to all others--when it is mybelief they know very little about it; but, by holding out the idea ofadding some drug, not to be procured at every house, which has a hardname, and that is little known to people of common capacities: Such asDragons blood, &c. Frequently retailing their secret, as the bestpossible mode of making stock yeast, at ten, twenty, and in someinstances one hundred dollars. 

Confessing it a subject, abstruse, and a science little understood inPennsylvania, and notwithstanding the numerous experiments I have madewith care and close observation, yet from a consciousness of notunderstanding it, _too well_, I have in several instances purchasedreceipts, and made faithful experiments; but have never yet met the manof science, theory, or practice, whose mode of making stock yeast, yielded a better preparation for promoting fermentation, than the simplemode pursued by myself for some years, and which I have uniformly foundto be the best and most productive. 

In making yeast, all drugs and witchcraft are unnecessary--Cleanliness, inpreserving the vessels perfectly sweet, good malt, and hops, and anindustrious distiller, capable of observation, and attention to thefollowing receipt, which will be assuredly found to contain the essence andspirit of the ways and art of making that composition, a knowledge of whichI have acquired, by purchases--consultations with the most eminent brewers, bakers, and distillers in this commonwealth, and above all, from a longpractice and experience, proving its utility and superior merits to mymost perfect satisfaction; and which I with pleasure offer to myfellow-citizens, as meriting a preference--notwithstanding the proud andscientific chymist, and the flowery declarations or treatises of theprofound theorist, may disapprove this simple mode, and offer those whichthey presume to be better, tho' they never soiled a finger in making apractical experiment, or perhaps witnessed a process of any description. 

ARTICLE II. 

_Receipt for Stock Yeast. _

_For a stock yeast vessel of two gallons, the size best adapted for thatpurpose. _

Take one gallon good barley malt, (be sure it be of good quality) put itinto a clean, well scalded vessel, (which take care shall be perfectlysweet) pour thereon four gallons scalding water, (be careful your waterbe clean) stir the malt and water with a well scalded stick, untilthoroughly mixed together, then cover the vessel close with a cleancloth, for half an hour; then uncover it and set it in some convenientplace to settle, after three or four hours, or when you are sure thesediment of the malt is settled to the bottom, then pour off the top, orthin part that remains on the top, into a clean well scoured iron pot, (be careful not to disturb the thick sediment in the bottom, and thatnone of it goes into the pot); then add four ounces good hops, and coverthe pot close with a clean scalded iron cover, and set it on a hot fireof coals to boil--boil it down one third, or rather more, then strainall that is in the pot through a thin hair sieve, (that is perfectlyclean) into a clean well scalded earthen crock that is glazed--then stirinto it, with a clean stirring stick, as much superfine flour as willmake it about half thick, that is neither thick nor thin, but betweenthe two, stirring it effectually until there be no lumps left in it. Iflumps are left, you will readily perceive that the heart or inside ofthose lumps will not be scalded, and of course, when the yeast begins towork, those lumps will sour very soon, and of course sour theyeast--stir it then till those lumps are all broken, and mixed up, thencover it close for half an hour, to let the flour stirred therein, beproperly scalded, after which uncover and stir it frequently until it isa little colder than milk warm, (to be ascertained by holding yourfinger therein for ten minutes, but beware your finger is clean) thenadd half a pint of genuine good yeast, [1] (be certain it is good, foryou had better use none, than bad yeast) and stir it effectually, untilyou are sure the yeast is perfectly incorporated with the ingredients inthe pot--after which cover it, and set it in a moderately cool place insummer, until you perceive it begin to work, or ferment--then be carefulto stir it two or three times at intervals of half an hour--then set itpast to work--in the winter, place it in a moderately warm part of thestill-house--and in summer, choose a spring house, almost up to the brimof the crock in water--avoiding extremes of heat or cold, which areequally prejudicial to the spirit of fermentation--of consequence, itshould be placed in a moderately warm situation in the winter, andmoderately cool in the summer. 

[Footnote 1: If none can be obtained that is good, the following is areceipt to make it, viz. 

Procure three wooden vessels of different sizes and apertures, onecapable of holding two quarts, the other three or four, and the thirdfive or six; boil a quarter of a peck of malt for about eight or tenminutes in three pints of water; and when a quart is poured off from thegrains, let it stand in a cool place till not quite cold, but retainingthat degree of heat which the brewers usually find to be proper whenthey begin to work their liquor. Then remove the vessel into some warmsituation near a fire, where the thermometer stands between 70 and 80degrees (Fahrenheit, ) and here let it remain till the fermentationbegins, which will be plainly perceived within thirty hours; add thentwo quarts more of a like decoction of malt, when cool, as the firstwas; and mix the whole in the larger sized vessel, and stir it well in, which must be repeated in the usual way, as it rises in a common vat:then add a still greater quantity of the same decoction, to be worked inthe largest vessel, which will produce yeast enough for a brewing offorty gallons. ]

This yeast ought to be renewed every four or five days in the summer, and eight or ten days in the winter--but it is safer to renew itoftener, or at shorter intervals, than suffering it to stand longer. Intwenty-four hours after it begins to work, it is fit for use. 

Between a pint and half a pint of the foregoing stock yeast, issufficient to raise the yeast for the daily use of three hogsheads. 

ART. III. 

The most proper vessel for preserving stock yeast is an earthen crock, that will hold three gallons at least, with a cover of the same, wellglazed--as it will contract no acid from the fermentation, and is easilyscalded and sweetened. There ought to be two of the same size, that whenone is in use, the other may be sweetening--which is effected byexposing them to frost or fire. 

ART. IV. 

_To know when Yeast is good or bad. _

When you perceive your yeast working, observe if it works quick, sharpand strong, and increasing in bulk nearly double what it was before itbegan to work, with a sweet sharp taste, and smell, with the appearanceof a honey comb, with pores, and always changing place, with a brightlively colour, then you may pronounce your yeast good; on the contrary, if it is dead, or flat and blue looking, with a sour taste, and smell, (if any at all, ) then you may pronounce it bad, and unfit for use, andof course must be renewed. 

ART. V. 

_How to renew Yeast when sour. _

About two hours before you begin to make your beer, take one pint of thesour yeast, put it into a clean dish or vessel, and pour clean coldwater over it--changing the water every fifteen minutes, until the acidbe extracted, have it then in readiness to mix with the beer, which isto be prepared, in the following manner, viz. Take one pint malt, andscald it well in a clean vessel, with a gallon of boiling water, let itstand half an hour closely covered--then pour it into a pot with plentyof hops--then strain it into a well scalded earthen jug, when milkwarm--add then a small quantity of the yeast, (sweetened as directed inthe first part of this receipt, ) with two or three table spoon fulls ofmolasses ... Set it past for twenty four hours to ferment ... Then pouroff the top, or beer that is in the jug, leaving about a quart in thebottom ... Then that which remains in the bottom will be yeast withwhich to start your stock yeast. 

ART. VI. 

The method of procuring and keeping stock yeast, by the generality ofdistillers, merits in the mind of the author of this work, most decideddisapprobation. They generally procure yeast once a week, or month, frombrewers, and if not convenient to be had in this way, they often usesuch as is used by country women, for baking bread, without paying anyregard to the quality, or whether sour; with such, tho' generally bad, they proceed to make their daily yeast, and often continue the use ofit, until the grain will no longer yield a gallon of whiskey to thebushel, and so often proceed in this miserable and indolent mode ofprocuring and renewing yeast, to the great prejudice of their own, andemployer's interest ... Attributing the small yield of liquor to thebadness of the grain ... The manner in which it is chopped, or someother equally false cause. Then to the idle and careless habits ofdistillers, must be attributed any yield short of three gallons to thebushel of rye.... To ensure this quantity at least from the bushel, theauthor discovers the anxiety expressed, and the care recommended in theforegoing pages, on the subject of preserving and keeping good yeast, and recommends the following as the best mode of preparing. 

ART. VII. 

_Stock Yeast good for years. _

When the weather is moderately warm in autumn or the spring, take ofyour best stock yeast that has fermented about twenty four hours, andstir it thick with the coarsest middlings of wheat flour, add smallquantity of whiskey, in which, previously dissolve a little salt, whenyou have stirred the middlings with a stick, rub it between your handsuntil it becomes pretty dry, then spread it out thin, on a board to dryin the sun ... Rubbing once or twice in the day between your hands untilit is perfectly dry, which will be in three or four good days--taking itin at night before the dew falls--when it is properly dried, put it upin a paper and keep it in a dry airy place for use. 

Thus yeast will keep good, if free from moisture, for any length oftime, and it is the only effectual mode of preserving stock yeast pureand sweet ... When put up conformably to the foregoing instructions, thedistiller may always rely on having it good, and depend on a good turnout of his grain, provided he manages the other parts of his distillingequally well. 

About two hours before you mean to use the dried yeast, the mode is totake two gills, place it in any convenient vessel, and pour thereonmilk-warm water, stir and mix it well with the yeast, and in two orthree hours good working yeast will be produced. 

In the spring every distiller ought to make as much as would serve 'tillfall, and every fall as much as will serve thro' the winter, reckoningon the use of one pint per week, three gills being sufficient to startas much stock yeast as will serve a common distillery one week. 

ART. VIII. 

_To make the best Yeast for daily use. _

For three hogsheads take two handfuls of hops, put them into an ironpot, and pour thereon three gallons boiling water out of your boiler, set the pot on the fire closely covered half an hour, to extract thestrength from the hops, then strain it into your yeast vessel, thickenit with chopped rye, from which the bran has been sifted ... Stir itwith a clean stick until the lumps are all well broken and mixed ... Cover it close with a cloth for half an hour, adding at the time ofputting in the chopped rye, one pint of good malt when the rye issufficiently scalded, uncover and stir it well until it is milk-warm, then add one pint good stock yeast, stirring until you are sure it iswell mixed with the new yeast. If your stock yeast is good, this methodwill serve you ... Observing always, that your water and vessels areclean, and the ingredients of a good quality; as soon as you have cooledoff and emptied your yeast vessel, scald and scour, and expose it to thenight air to purify. Tin makes the best yeast vessel for yeast madedaily, in the above mode. 

In the course of my long practice in distilling I fully discovered thata nice attention to yeast is absolutely necessary, and altho' I have inthe foregoing pages said a great deal on the subject, yet from theimportance justly to be attached to this ingredient in distilling, andto shew more fully the advantages and disadvantages arising from the useof good and bad yeast, I submit the following statement for theconsideration of my readers. 

Advantages in using good yeast for one month, at 5 bushels per day; 30 days at 5 bushels, is 150 bushels at 60 cents, costs $ 90 00

Contra150 bushels yield 3 gallons per bushel, at 50 cents per gallon--450 gallons, 225 00 -------- Profit $ 135 00

Disadvantages sustained during the above period. 150 bushels at 60 cents, $ 90 00

Contra150 bushes yielding 1-1/2 gallons to the bushel--225 gallons at 50 cents, 112 50 ------- Profit $ 21 50

Thus the owner or distiller frequently sustains in the distillation ofhis produce, a loss, equal and in proportion to the foregoing--from theuse of indifferent yeast, and often without knowing to what cause toattribute it. This statement will shew more forcibly, than any othermode--and is made very moderate on the side of indifferent yeast, forwith bad sour yeast the yield will be oftener under one gallon to thebushel than above one and an half--whereas with good yeast the yieldwill rarely be so low as three gallons to the bushel. It is therefore, Iendeavor so strongly to persuade the distiller to pay every possibleattention to the foregoing instructions, and the constant use of goodyeast only, to the total rejection of all which may be of doubtfulquality. 

SECTION II. 

ARTICLE I. 

_Observations on Wood for Hogsheads. _

The cheapest and easiest wrought wood is generally most used for makingmashing tubs, or hogsheads, and very often for dispatch or fromnecessity, any wood that is most convenient is taken, as pine orchesnut; indeed I have seen poplar tubs in use for mashing, which isvery wrong, as a distiller by not having his hogsheads of good wood, maylose perhaps the price of two sets of hogsheads in one season. Forinstance, a farmer is about to erect a distillery, and is convenient toa mountain, abounding in chesnut or pine, which from its softness andthe ease with which it may be worked, its convenience for dispatch sake, is readily chosen for his mashing hogsheads. --To such selection of wood, I offer my most decided disapprobation, from my long experience, Iknow that any kind of soft wood will not do in warm weather. Soft poruswood made up into mashing tubs when full of beer and under fermentation, will contract, receive or soak in so much acid, as to penetrate nearlythro' the stave, and sour the vessel to such a degree, in warm weather, that no scalding will take it out--nor can it be completely sweeteneduntil filled with cold water for two or three days, and then scalded; Itherefore strongly recommend the use of, as most proper

_White Oak. _

Disapproving of black, tho' next in order to white oak staves for allthe vessels about the distillery ... As being the most durable of closetexture, easily sweetened ... And hard to be penetrated by acids of anykind, tho' sometimes the best white oak hogsheads may sour, but two orthree scaldings will render them perfectly sweet ... If white oak cannotbe had, black oak being of the next best in quality may be used ... Andagain I enter my protest against pine, chesnut, poplar, and every kindof soft porus wood. 

If possible, or if at all convenient, have the vessels iron bound andpainted, to prevent worms and the weather from injuring them, using onegood wood hoop on the bottom to save the chine. 

ART. II. 

_To sweeten Hogsheads by scalding. _

When you turn your vessels out of doors (for it is esteemed slothful anda lazy mode to scald them in the still house, ) you must wash them cleanwith your scrubbing brush, then put in sixteen or twenty gallons boilingwater--cover it close for about twenty minutes, then scrub it outeffectually with your scrubbing broom, then rinse your vessel well witha couple buckets clean cold water, and set them out to receive theair--this method will do in the winter, provided they are left out inthe frost over night--but in summer, and especially during the months ofJuly and August, this mode will not do--it is during those extreme warmmonths in our latitude, that the vessels are liable to contract putridparticles, which may be corrected by the following mode of making

_Hogsheads perfectly sweet. _

Scald them twice, as above directed, then light a brimstone match, flickit on the ground, turn your hogshead down over it, let it stand untilthe match quits burning, this operation is necessary once a week--amethod I have found effectual. 

ART. III. 

_To sweeten Hogsheads by burning. _

When you have scalded your hogsheads well, put into each, a largehandful of oat or rye straw, set it on fire, and stir it till it is ina blaze, then turn the mouth of the hogshead down; the smoke will purifyand sweeten the cask. This process should be repeated every other day, especially during summer--it will afford you good working casks, provided your yeast be good, and your hogsheads are well mashed. 

There ought always to be in a distillery more vessels than are necessaryfor immediate use, that they may alternately be exposed to the frost andair one night at least before brought into service, always bearing inmind that the utmost attention to cleanliness is necessary, in order toafford such yield from the grain, or fruit, as may be requisite tocompensate for the expense and labor of extracting spirits--andmoreover, that the exercise of the finest genius possessed by man isscarcely capable of taking from small grain, all the spirit itcontains:.... Good materials will not suffice ... The most markedattention is indispensably necessary to yeast; a mind capable of judgingof fermentation in all its stages ... A close adherence to the manner ofusing the ingredients ... Preparing them, and the use of sweet vessels, with great industry and a knowledge to apply it at the proper moment, are all necessary to enable the accomplishment of the desired end. 

Note ... In scalding your hogshead I would recommend the use of a shovelfull of ashes, which will scald more sharply. 

SECTION III. 

ARTICLE I. 

_To Mash Rye in the common mode. _

Take four gallons cold water to each hogshead, add one gallon malt, stirit well with your mashing stick, until the malt is thoroughly wet--whenyour still boils, put in about sixteen gallons boiling water, then putin one and an half bushels of chopped rye, stirring it effectually, until there is no lumps in it, then cover it close until the stillboils, then put in each hogshead, three buckets or twelve gallonsboiling water, stirring it well at the same time--cover it close--stirit at intervals until you perceive your rye is scalded enough, which youwill know by putting in your mashing stick, and lifting thereon some ofthe scalded rye, you will perceive the heart or seed of the rye, like agrain of timothy seed sticking to the stick, and no appearance of mush, when I presume it will be sufficiently scalded--it must then be stirreduntil the water is cold enough to cool off, or you may add one bucket orfour gallons of cold water to each hogshead, to stop the scalding. 

I have known this process succeed well with an attentive distiller. 

ART. II. 

_The best method of distilling Rye. _

Take four gallons boiling, and two gallons cold water--put it into ahogshead, then stir in one and a half bushels chopped rye, let it standfive minutes, then add two gallons cold water, and one gallon malt, stir it effectually--let it stand till your still boils, then addsixteen gallons boiling water, stirring it well, or until you break allthe lumps--then put into each hogshead, so prepared, one pint coarsesalt, and one shovel full of hot coals out of your furnace. (The coalsand salt have a tendency to absorb all sourness and bad smell, that maybe in the hogshead or grain;) if there be a small quantity of hot ashesin the coals, it is an improvement--stir your hogsheads effectuallyevery fifteen minutes, keeping them close covered until you perceive thegrain scalded enough--when you may uncover, if the above sixteen gallonsboiling water did not scald it sufficiently, water must be added untilscalded enough--as some water will scald quicker than others--it isnecessary to mark this attentively, and in mashing two or three times, it may be correctly ascertained what quantity of the kind of water usedwill scald effectually--after taking off the covers, they must bestirred effectually, every fifteen minutes, till you cool off--for whichoperation, see "_Cooling off. _" To those who distill all rye, Irecommend this method, as I have found it to answer every kind of water, with one or two exceptions. 

Distillers will doubtless make experiments of the various modesrecommended and use that which may prove most advantageous andconvenient. 

ART. III. 

_To Mash two thirds Rye and one third Corn in Summer. _

This I have found to be the nicest process belonging to distilling--thesmall proportion of corn, and the large quantity of scalding water, together with the easy scalding of rye, and the difficulty of scaldingcorn, makes it no easy matter to exactly hit the scald of both; but assome distillers continue to practice it, (altho' not a good method in mymind, owing to the extreme nice attention necessary in performing it. )In the following receipt I offer the best mode within my knowledge, andwhich I deem the most beneficial, and in which I shew the process andmode pursued by other distillers. 

Take four gallons cold water, put it into a hogshead, then stir half abushel corn into it, let it stand uncovered thirty minutes, then addsixteen gallons boiling water, stir it well, cover it close for fifteenminutes, then put in your rye and malt and stir it until there be nolumps, then cover it and stir it at intervals until your still boils, then add, eight, twelve, or sixteen gallons boiling water, or suchquantity as you find from experience, to answer best--(but with mostwater, twelve gallons will be found to answer) stirring it well everyfifteen minutes until you perceive it is scalded enough, then uncoverand stir it effectually until you cool off; keeping in mind always thatthe more effectually you stir it, the more whiskey will be yielded. Thismethod I have found to answer best, however, I have known it to do verywell, by soaking the corn in the first place, with two gallons warm, andtwo gallons cold water, instead of the four gallons of cold water, mentioned above--others put in the rye, when all the boiling water is inthe hogshead, but I never found it to answer a good purpose, nor indeeddid I ever find much profit in distilling rye and corn in thisproportion. 

ART. IV. 

_To distill one half Rye and one half Corn. _

This method of distilling equal quantities of rye and corn, is more inpractice, and is much better than to distill unequal proportions, forreason you can scald your corn and rye to a certainty, and the produceis equal if not more, and better whiskey, than all rye. The indian cornis cheaper, and the seed is better than if all rye. I would recommendthis, as the smallest quantity of corn to be mixed with rye fordistillation, as being most productive, and profitable. The followingreceipt I have found to answer all waters--yet there may be places wherethe distiller cannot follow this receipt exactly, owing to hard or softwater, (as it is generally termed) or hard flint or soft floury corn, that will either scald too much or too little--but this the attentivedistiller will soon determine by experience. 

Have your hogshead perfectly sweet, put into each, three gallons of coldand three of boiling water, or more or less of each, as you find willanswer best--then stir in your corn--fill up your boiler, bring itbriskly to a boil--then put to each hogshead twelve gallons boilingwater, giving each hogshead one hundred stirs, with your mashing stick, then cover close, fill up your boiler and keep a good fire under her, toproduce a speedy boil; before you add the last water, put into eachhogshead one pint of salt, and a shovel full of hot coals and ashes fromunder your still, stir the salt and coals well, to mix it with yourcorn, the coal will remove any bad smell which may be in thehogshead--Should you find on trial, that rye don't scald enough, byputting it in after your last water, you may in that case put in yourrye before the last water--but this should be ascertained from severalexperiments. I have found it to answer best to put in the rye after allthe water is in the hogshead, especially if you always bring the stillbriskly to a boil--then on your corn put twelve or sixteen gallonsboiling water, (for the last water, ) then if you have not already mashedin your rye, put it in with one gallon good malt to each hogshead, carefully stirring it immediately very briskly, for fear of the waterloosing its heat, and until the lumps are all broken, which you willdiscover by looking at your mashing stick; lumps generally stick to it. When done stirring, cover the hogshead close for half an hour, thenstir it to ascertain whether your grain be sufficiently scalded, andwhen nearly scalded enough, uncover and stir steady until you have itcool enough to stop scalding; when you see it is scalded enough, and bystirring that the scalding is stopped, uncover your hogsheads, and stirthem effectually, every fifteen minutes, until they are fit to cooloff--remembering that sweet good yeast, clean sweet hogsheads, with thismode of mashing carefully, will produce you a good turn out of yourgrain. The quantity of corn and rye is generally two stroked halfbushels of each, and one gallon malt. 

ART. V. 

_To Mash one third Rye and two thirds Corn. _

This I deem the most profitable mashing that a distiller can work, andif he can get completely in the way of working corn and rye in thisproportion, he will find it the easiest process of mashing. That cornhas as much and as good whiskey as rye or any other grain, cannot bedisputed, and the slop or pot ale is much superior to that of any othergrain, for feeding or fattening either horned cattle or hogs--one gallonof corn pot ale being esteemed worth three of rye, and cattle willalways eat it better--and moreover, corn is always from one to twoshillings per bushel cheaper than rye, and in many places muchplentier--so that by adopting this method and performing it well, thedistiller will find at the close of the year, it has advantages over allother processes and mixtures of rye and corn, yielding more profit, andsustaining the flock better. Hogs fatted on this pot ale, will be founddecidedly better than any fatted on the slops of any other kind ofmashing. 

_Mash as follows. _

Have sweet hogsheads, good yeast and clean water in your boiler; whenthe water is sharp, warm, or half boiling, put into every hogshead youmean to mash at the same time, six, eight or as many gallons of the halfboiling water, as will completely wet one bushel corn meal--add thenone bushel chopped corn, stir it with your mashing stick till your cornis all wet; it is better to put in a less quantity of water first, andso add as you may find necessary, until completely wet (be careful inall mashings, that your mashing stick be clean), this is called soakingthe corn. Then fill up your boiler, bring her quickly to a boil, wheneffectually boiling, put into every hogshead, twelve gallons boilingwater, stirring it well after putting in each bucket, until the lumpsare quite broken--cover the hogsheads close, after a completestirring--fill up your boiler, bring her quickly to boil for the lastmashing--stir the corn in the hogshead every fifteen minutes, till yourlast water is boiling--put into each hogshead one pint salt, and ashovel full of red hot coals, stirring it well--then put in eachhogshead sixteen gallons of boiling water, stir it well--cover it closefor twenty-five minutes--then put into each hogshead one half bushel ryemeal, and one gallon good chopped malt, stirring it until the lumps areall broken, then cover it close, stir it every half hour, until youperceive it sufficiently scalded--then uncover it and stir it as oftenas your other business will permit, until ready to cool off. 

In this and every other mashing you must use sweet vessels only and goodyeast, or your labor will be in vain; and in all kinds of mashing youcannot stir too much. 

ART. VI. 

_To Mash Corn. _

This is an unprofitable and unproductive mode of mashing, but there maybe some times when the distiller is out of rye, on account of the millbeing stopped, bad roads, bad weather, or some other cause; and to avoidthe necessity of feeding raw grain to the hogs or cattle, (presumingevery distillery to be depended on for supplying a stock of some kind, and often as a great reliance for a large stock of cattle and hogs, ) incold weather I have found it answer very well, but in warm weather itwill not do. Those who may be compelled then from the above causes, orled to it by fancy, may try the following method. To one hogshead, puttwelve gallons boiling water, and one and an half bushels corn, stir itwell, then when your water boils, add twelve gallons more, (boilinghot, ) stir it well, and cover it close, until the still boils the thirdtime, then put in each hogshead, one quart of salt, and sixteen gallonsboiling water, stir it effectually, cover it close until you perceive itnearly scalded enough, then put in two, or three gallons cold water, (asyou will find to answer best, ) and two gallons malt, or more if it canbe spared--stir it well, then cover it for half an hour, then uncoverand stir it well, until cold enough to cool off. 

ART. VII. 

_To make four gallons from the bushel. _

This is a method of mashing that I much approve of, and recommend to allwhiskey distillers to try it--it is easy in process, and is very littlemore trouble than the common method, and may be done in every way ofmashing, as well with corn or rye, as also a mixture of each, for eightmonths in the year; and for the other four is worth the trouble offollowing. I do not mean to say that the quantity of four gallons can bemade at an average, in every distillery, with every sort of grain, andwater, or during every vicissitude of weather, and by every distiller, but this far I will venture to say, that a still house that is kept incomplete order, with good water, grain well chopped, good malt, hops, and above all good yeast; together with an apt, careful and industriousdistiller, cannot fail to produce at an average for eight months in theyear, three and three quarter gallons from the bushel at a moderatecalculation. I have known it sometimes produce four and an half gallonsto the bushel, for two or three days, and sometimes for as many weeks, when perhaps, the third or fourth day, or week, it would scarcely yieldthree gallons; a change we must account for, in a change of weather, thewater or the neglect or ignorance of the distiller. For instance, weknow that four gallons of whiskey is in the bushel of rye orcorn--certain, that this quantity has been made from the bushel; thenwhy not always? Because, is the answer, there is something wrong, souryeast or hogsheads, neglect of duty in the distiller, change of grain, or change of weather--then of course it is the duty of the distiller toguard against all these causes as near as he can. The following method, if it does not produce in every distillery the quantity above mentioned, will certainly produce more whiskey from the bushel, than any other modeI have ever known pursued. 

Mash your grain in the method that you find will yield you mostwhiskey--the day before you intend mashing, have a clean hogshead set ina convenient part of the distillery; when your singling still is runoff, take the head off and fill her up with clean water, let her standhalf an hour, to let the thick part settle to the bottom, which it willdo when settled, dip out with a gallon or pail, and fill the cleanhogshead half full, let the hogshead stand until it cools a little, sothat when you fill it up with cool water, it will be about milk-warm, then yeast it off with the yeast for making 4 gallons to the bushel, then cover it close, and let it work or ferment until the day following, when you are going to cool off; when the cold water is running into yourhogshead of mashed stuff, take the one third of this hogshead to everyhogshead, (the above being calculated for three hogsheads) to be mashedevery day, stirring the hogsheads well before you yeast them off. Thisprocess is simple, and I flatter myself will be found worthy of thetrouble. 

ART. VIII. 

_To know when Grain is scalded enough. _

Put your mashing stick into your hogshead and stir it round two or threetimes gently, then lift it out and give it a gentle stroke on the edgeof your hogshead--if you perceive the batter or musky part fall off yourstick, and there remains the heart of the grain on your mashing stick, like grains of timothy seed, then be assured that it is sufficientlyscalded, if not too much, this hint will suffice to the new beginner, but experience and observation will enable the most correct judgment. 

ART. IX. 

_Directions for cooling off. _

Much observation is necessary to enable the distiller to cool off withjudgment--which necessity is increased by the versatility of ourclimate, the seasons of the year, and the kinds of water used. Thesecircumstances prevent a strict adherence to any particular or specificmode; I however submit a few observations for the guidance of distillersin this branch. --If in summer you go to cool off with cold spring water, then of course the mashed stuff in your hogsheads must be much warmer, than if you intended cooling off with creek or river water, both ofwhich are generally near milk warm, which is the proper heat for coolingoff--In summer a little cooler, and in winter a little warmer. 

It will be found that a hogshead of mashed grain will always get warmer, after it begins to work or ferment. 

When the mashed stuff in your hogsheads is brought to a certain degreeof heat, by stirring, which in summer will feel sharp warm, or so warm, that you can hardly bear your hand in it for any length of time, will dofor common water, but for very cold or very warm water to cool off with, the stuff in the hogsheads must be left colder or warmer, as thedistiller may think most expedient, or to best suit the cooling offwater. 

When you think it is time to cool off, have a trough or conveyance tobring the water to your hogsheads ready--let the hogsheads be wellstirred, then let the water run into them slowly, stirring them all thetime the water is running in, until they are milk warm, then stop thewater, and after stirring them perfectly, put in the yeast and stir ituntil completely incorporated with the mashed stuff, then cover yourhogshead until it begins to ferment or work, then uncover it. 

ART. X. 

_To ascertain when Rye works well in the Hogshead. _

When mashed rye begins to work or ferment in the hogsheads, either in aheavy, thick, or light bubbly top, both of which are unfavorable; whenit rises in a thick heavy top, you may be sure there is something wrong, either in the grain, yeast, or cooling off. When the top (as called bydistillers) appear, with bubbles about the size of a nutmeg, rising andfalling alternately, with the top not too thick nor too thin, and withthe appearance of waves, mixed with the grain in the hogshead, risingand falling in succession, and when you put your head over the steam, and it flying into your nose, will have a suffocating effect, or when itwill instantly extinguish a candle when held over it, you may feelassured, it is working well. 

From these hints and the experience of the distiller, a judgment may beformed of the state of fermentation and the quality. 

ART. XI. 

_To prevent Hogsheads from working over. _

If the stuff is cooled off too warm, or too much yeast is put in thehogsheads, they will work over, and of course lose a great deal ofspirit, to prevent which, take tallow and rub round the chine of thehogsheads a little higher than they ought to work; it will generallyprevent them from rising any higher, but if they will work over in spiteof this remedy, then drop a little tallow into the stuff, it willimmediately sink the stuff to a proper height. 

SECTION IV. 

ARTICLE I. 

_Observations on the quality of Rye for distilling. _

The best rye for distilling is that which is thoroughly ripe, before itis cut, and kept dry till threshed; if it has grown on high or hillyground, it is therefore to be preferred, being then sounder and thegrain fuller, than that produced on low level land--but very often thedistiller has no choice, but must take that which is mostconvenient;--great care however ought to be observed in selecting soundrye, that has been kept dry, is clean and free from cockle, and allkind of dirt, advantages will result from fanning it, or running itthrough a windmill before it is chopped. 

ART. II. 

_Mode of chopping Rye and the proper size. _

The mill stones ought to be burrs, and kept very sharp for chopping ryefor distillation; and the miller ought to be careful not to draw morewater on the wheel than just sufficient to do it well, and avoid feedingthe stones plentifully; because in drawing a plentiful supply of water, the wheel will compel a too rapid movement of the stones, of courserender it necessary they should be more abundantly fed, which causespart to be ground dead, or too fine, whilst part thereof will be toocoarse, and not sufficiently broken, so that a difficulty arises inscalding--for in this state it will not scald equally, and ofconsequence, the fermentation cannot be so good or regular; andmoreover as part of it will merely be flattened, a greater difficultywill arise in breaking the lumps, when you mash and stir your hogsheads. If burr stones are very sharp, I recommend the rye to be chopped veryfine, but to guard against over-seeding, or pressing too much on them;but if the stones are not sharp, I would recommend the rye should bechopped about half fine. Distillers in general sustain a loss fromhaving their rye chopped so coarse as I have observed it done in common. 

ART. III. 

_Chopping or Grinding Indian Corn. _

Indian corn cannot be ground too fine for distilling. 

ART. IV. 

_Malt_

Cannot be ground too coarse, provided it is done even--there ought to beno fine nor coarse grains in malt, but ground perfectly alike, and ofthe same grade. If ground too fine, it will be apt to be scalded toomuch in mashing. Malt does not require half the scalding necessary inrye. Let the distiller try the experiment of coarse and then of fineground malt and judge for himself. 

ART. V. 

_How to choose Malt. _

Malt is chosen by its sweet smell, mellow taste, full flower, round bodyand thin skin. There are two kinds used, the pale and the brown--thepale is the best. 

ART. VI. 

_How to build a Malt kiln in every Distillery. _

When setting up your stills, leave a space of about nine inches for asmall furnace between the large ones, extend it to your chimney andcarry up a funnel, there-from to the loft, then stop it--here build thekiln on the loft, about 4 or 5 feet square, the walls to be composed ofsingle brick, 3 feet high--lay the bottom with brick, cover it with aplaster of mortar, to prevent the floor from taking fire. Turn thefunnel of the chimney into, and extend it to the centre of the kiln, cover the top, leaving vent holes at the sides for the heat to escapethro'--Place on the top of the kiln, sheet iron or tin punched full ofsmall holes, too small to admit the passage of malt; lay the malt on thetop of the tin, when ready for drying. Put coals from under the stillfurnace into the small furnace leading to the kiln, which will heat thekiln and dry the malt above, by adding to or diminishing the quantity ofcoals, the heat may be increased or decreased, as may be foundnecessary. Malt for distilling ought to be dried without smoke. 

ART. VII. 

_Hops. _

Give a preference to hops of a bright green colour, sweet smell, andhave a gummy or clammy effect when rubbed between the hands or fingers. 

SECTION V. 

ARTICLE I. 

_How to order and fill the Singling still when distilling Rye. _

Scrape, clean, and grease the singling still, fill her up with beer, andkeep a good fire under her, till she be warm enough to head, stirringher constantly with a broom, to prevent the grain from sticking to thebottom or sides, and burning, which it is very apt to do when the beeris cold, but when it comes to boil there is little danger, prevented bythe motion of boiling; have the head washed clean--when she is ready forthe head, clap it on and paste it; keep up a brisk fire, until shebegins to drop from the worm, then put in the damper in the chimney, andif the fire be very strong, moderate it a little, by throwing ashes orwater on it, to prevent her throwing the head, which she will be veryapt to do if very full, and coming round under a strong fire, (shouldthe head come, or be thrown off, the spirit remaining will scarcely beworth running off). When fairly round and running moderately, watch herfor half an hour; after which, unless the fire is very strong all dangeris over. 

Should she happen to throw the head, it is the duty of the distiller totake and (wash the head and worm--the latter will be found full ofstuff) clean, clap on the head, and paste it--but the moment the head isthrown off, the fire should be drowned out, and water thrown into thestill to prevent her boiling over. 

It is important that after every run, or rather before you commence arun, the distiller should carefully clean out the still, wipe thebottom dry, and grease her well, to prevent her from burning andsingeing the liquor. 

ART. II. 

_Mode of managing the doubling Still when making Whiskey. _

Let the doubling still be carefully cleaned and washed out, then befilled with singlings and low wines left from the run preceding, addthereto half a pint of salt and one quart of clean ashes, which willhelp to clear the whiskey, and a handful of Indian meal to prevent thestill from leaking at the cock, or elsewhere--clean the head and worm, put on the head, paste it well; put fire under and bring her roundslowly, and run the spirit off as slow as possible, and preserve thewater in the cooling tub as cold as in your power. 

Let the liquor as it runs from the worm pass thro' a flannel to preventthe overjuice from the copper, and the oil of the grain from mixing withthe spirit. The first being poisonous, and the latter injurious to theliquor. 

The doubling still cannot be run too slow for making good whiskey ... Observe when the proof leaves the worm, that is when there is no proofon the liquor as it comes from the worm, if there be ten gallons in yourdoubling keg, if so, run out three more, which will make in all thirteengallons first proof whiskey. If the proof leaves the worm at eightgallons, then run till eleven gallons and so on in proportion, to thelarger or smaller quantity in your keg at the time of the ceasing of theproof. 

ART. III. 

_Observations on the advantages of making strong and good Whiskey withstalement, &c. _

The distiller who makes whiskey for a market under the government ofinspection laws, too weak, sustains a loss of a cent for each degree itmay be under proof ... And the disadvantages are increased in proportionto the extent of land carriage. If a distance of seventy miles, theprice of carriage per gallon will be about six cents, paying the sameprice for weak or strong ... Not only the disadvantage of paying for thecarriage of feints or water, but the loss in the casks, which tho' smallapparently at first view, yet if nicely attended to, will amount in thecourse of the year to a sum of moment to every distiller or proprietor. To convey my ideas, or render a more compleat exposition of myimpressions as to the actual loss on one waggon load (predicated on adistance of seventy miles land carriage) of first proof whiskey, andthat nine degrees under proof. I give the following statement. 

300 _gallons good first proofwhiskey at_ 50 _cents_, $ 150_haling at six cents_, 18 ________ $ 132 00

300 _gallons whiskey ninedegrees under proof at_ 41_cents_, $ 123_haling_ 18 ________ $ 105 00 ________ difference $ 27 00

This difference of twenty-seven dollars in favor of the distiller, whosends first proof whiskey, is not the only advantage, but he saves inbarrels or casks, what will contain fifty four gallons, nearly twobarrels; which together with the time saved, or gained in running goodwhiskey only, of filling and measuring it out, loading, &c. Will leavean advantage of I presume, three dollars in each load. Or to verifymore satisfactorily, and I hope my readers will not think me too prolix, as economy cannot be too much attended to in this business, I add astatement predicated on a year's work, and on the foregoing principles:

_The distiller of weak whiskey, in twelve months, or one year, distils at the rate of_ 100 _gallonsper week, or say in the year, he prepares for a marketat the above distance, _ 5000 _gallons, which ought to command_ $ 2, 500

_But he sustains a loss or deduction of_ 9 _cents_, 450

_Then the first loss may safely be computed at_ $ 450

150 _empty barrels necessary to contain_ 5000 _gallons, at_ 33-1/3 _gallons to the barrel, estimating the barrelat 7s and 6d, is_ $ 150

_This quantity of whiskey, when reduced to proof, is4, 100 gals. Which would have occupied only 123 barrels_, 123

 ------- 27

_Then the second loss may be estimated at_ $ 27

_He ought to have made this quantity of_ 4100_gallons in nine months and three weeks, but we will say10 months, sustaining a loss of two months in the year. _

_3d item of loss. Hire of distiller for 2 months at_ $12 24 00

_4th do. Rent of distillery do. At £15 per annum. _ 6 66

_5th do. One sixth of the wood consumed, (at the rate of100 cords per annum, ) 16 cords_, 20 00

_6th do. One sixth of the Malt, do. Say 90 bushels_, 90 00

_7th do. Is the wear and tear of stills, vessels, &c. _ 12 34 ------- $ 630

Showing hereby a total annual loss to the careless distiller, of sixhundred and thirty dollars, and a weekly loss of twelve dollars andthree cents in the whiskey of nine degrees below proof--our ninth partof which is seventy dollars, which is the sum of loss sustained on eachdegree in this quantity of whiskey. 

The foregoing I flatter myself will not only show the necessity of care, cleanliness, industry and judgment, in the business of distilling; abusiness professed to be known, by almost every body--but in realityquite a science, and so abstruse as to be but too imperfectlyunderstood; and moreover, the value of time, so inestimable in itself, the economy of which is so rarely attended to. 

ART. IV. 

_Distilling of Buckwheat. _

Buckwheat is an unprofitable grain for the distillers when distilled byitself, but when mixed with rye, it will yield nearly as much as rye;but I would by no means recommend the use of it when it can be avoided. Tho' sometimes necessity requires that a distiller should mash it for aday or two, when any thing is the matter, or that grain cannot beprocured. In such event, the directions for distilling rye, or rye andcorn may be followed, but it requires a much larger quantity of boilingwater and if distilled by itself; it is necessary some wheat bran bemixed with it to raise it to the top of the hogshead: but by no meansuse buckwheat meal in making yeast. 

ART. V. 

_Distilling of Potatoes. _

This is a branch of distilling that I cannot too highly recommend to theattention of every American--nor can the cultivation of this valuablevegetable be carried to a too great extent, the value of which ought tobe known to every planter and it some times has awakened my surprisethat they are not more cultivated, as it is notorious that they willsustain, and be a tolerable food for every thing possessing life on thisearth--and as they produce a brandy, if properly made, of fine flavour. I hope yet to see the day when it will take precedence of French brandyand West-India spirits, and thereby retain in our own country, theimmense sums at present expended on those foreign liquors; which, tho'benefitted by the sea voyage, yet often reaches us in a mostpernicious state, and is frequently adulterated here. 

Could the American farmer be brought to raise a larger quantity ofpotatoes than necessary for his consumption at home, the price would belowered, and the distiller might commence the distillation of them withgreater propriety. That they contain a great deal and a very goodspirit, I am certain, and moreover, after distillation will yield asgreat a quantity of good wholesome food for cattle or hogs, as rye orany other grain. If distillers could be brought to try the experiment ofdistilling ten or twelve bushels annually, I venture to predict that itwould soon become a source of profit to themselves, encouragement to thefarmer, and be of benefit to our country at large. 

One acre of ground, if well farmed, will produce from fifty to onehundred bushels of potatoes, but say sixty on an average. One hundredfarmers each planting one acre, would yield six thousand bushels, whichwill yield at least two gallons of spirit to each bushel; thus, twelvethousand gallons of wholesome spirit may be produced, and with care, asgood as necessary to be drank. Each farmer proceeding in this way, wouldhave one hundred and twenty gallons spirit, as much as he may haveoccasion to use in the year, which would save the price of some acresof wheat or one hundred and twenty gallons rye whiskey. Each acre workedin potatoes will be in better order to receive a crop of wheat, barley, rye, or any kind of grain, than from any other culture. The farmer oftenreceiving the advantage of a double crop, at the expense of seed andlabor. They grow equally well in every soil and climate, in poor as wellas rich ground--provided the thin soil be manured, and the potatoesplastered with plaster of Paris; and moreover, they are easier preparedfor distilling than either apples, rye or corn, as I shall showhereafter when I come to treat of the mode of preparation; and in orderto demonstrate the advantages that would arise to the farmer anddistiller; I add a statement of the probable profits of ten acres ofpotatoes, and that of a like number of acres of rye, to shew whichoffers the greatest advantages. 

 _Potatoes_ DR. 

_Ten acres at_ 60 _bushels is_600 _bushels at_ 33 _cents_ $ 198 00

 _Rye. _

_Ten acres of Rye, at_ 30_bushels per acre, is_ 300_bushels at_ 60 _cents_ $ 180 00

 CR. 600 _bushels yielding_ 2 _gallonsto the bushel, _ 1200_gallons at_ 50 _cents_ 600 ----- $ 402

 CR. 300 _bushels yielding_ 3 _gallonsto the bushel_, 900_gallons at_ 50 _cents_ 450 ----- $ 270

_Balance in favor of Potatoes_ $ 132

Thus a balance of one hundred and thirty two dollars would appear infavor of the yield of potatoes. 

I would not pretend to say that ten acres of Potatoes will not take morelabor than ten acres of rye, but this far I will venture to say, thatthe profits arising from the sale of this brandy, will more than doublepay the additional expense of raising them, besides the ground will bein much better condition to receive a crop of wheat, than the ryeground, nay, will be enriched from the crop, whilst the rye ground willbe greatly impoverished. 

ART. VI. 

_Receipt to prepare Potatoes for Distilling. _

Wash them clean, and grind them in an apple mill, and if there be noapple mill convenient, they may be scalded and then pounded--then puttwo or three bushels into a hogshead and fill the hogshead nearly fullof boiling water, and stir it well for half an hour, then cover it closeuntil the potatoes are scalded quite soft, then stir them often untilthey are quite cold--then put into each hogshead about two quarts ofgood yeast and let them ferment, which will require eight or tendays--the beer then may be drawn off and distilled, or put the pulp andall into the still, and distill them as you do apples. I have knownpotatoes distilled in this way to yield upwards of three gallons to thebushel. 

ART. VII. 

_Pumpions_

May be prepared by the same process used in preparing potatoes, with theexception of not scalding them so high, nor do they require so muchyeast. 

ART. VIII. 

_Turnips_

Will produce nearly as much spirit as potatoes, but not so good. Theymust be prepared in the same manner. 

ART. IX. 

_How to distil Apples. _

Apples ought to be perfectly ripe for distillation, as it has beenascertained from repeated trials, that they produce more and betterspirit, (as well as cider), when fully ripe than if taken green, or theripe and unripe mixed--if taken mixed it will not be found practicableto grind them evenly, or equally fine; those fully ripe will be wellground, whilst those hard and unripe will be little more than broken orslightly bruised--and when this coarse and fine mixture is put into ahogshead to work or ferment, that fully ripe and fine ground, willimmediately begin, and will be nearly if not quite done working beforethe other begins, and of course nearly all the spirit contained in theunripe fruit will be lost--and if it is left standing until the illground unripe fruit is thoroughly fermented, and done working, you willperceive that a large portion of the spirit contained in the ripe wellground fruit is evaporated and of course lost. 

But if the fruit be all ripe and evenly ground, of course then it willwork regularly and can be distilled in due and right order, and willproduce the greatest quantity of spirit, and much superior to thatproduced from uneven, ill-ground or unripe fruit. 

Apples cannot be ground too fine. 

ART. X. 

_How to order Apples in the Hogsheads. _

When the apples are ground put them into open hogsheads to ferment, taking care not to fill them too full, or they will work over; set themunder cover, as the sun will sour them too soon, if permitted to operateon them, and by his heat extract a considerable quantity of the spirit, if the weather be warm they will work fast enough, provided you have asufficient supply of hogsheads to keep your stills agoing in due timeand order; about twenty hogsheads are sufficient to keep one singlingstill of one hundred and ten gallons agoing, if you distil the pumicewith the juice, but if you press off the apples after they are doneworking, you must have three times that number. 

In warm weather five or six days is long enough for apples to work, asit is always better to distil them before they are quite done working, then to let them stand one hour after the fermentation ceases. 

ART. XI. 

_How to work Apples slow or fast. _

If the hogsheads ripens too fast for your stills, add every day to eachhogshead four gallons cold spring water, putting it into a hole made inthe centre of the apples, with a large round stick of wood; by thusputting it into the centre of the hogshead, it will chill thefermentation, and thereby prevent the fruit from becoming ripe soonerthan it may suit the convenience of the distiller. But I think itadvisable that distillers should take in no more apples than they canproperly manage in due time. 

If the weather be cold, and the apples do not ripen so fast as you wish, then add every twelve hours, four gallons boiling, or warm water, whichwill ripen them if the weather be not too cold in four days at farthest. 

ART. XII. 

_How to judge when Apples are ready for distilling. _

Put your hand down into the hogsheads amongst the apples as far as youcan, and bring out a handful of pugs--squeeze them in your hand, throughyour fingers, observe if there be any core, or lumps of applesun-digested, if none, you may consider them as sufficiently fermentedand quite ready for distilling. It may also be ascertained by tastingand smelling the cider or juice, which rises in the hole placed in thecentre; if it tastes sweet and smells strong, it is not yet ready, butwhen quite fermented, the taste will be sour, and smell strong, which isthe proper taste for distilling. A nice discriminating attention isnecessary to ascertain precisely, when the fermentation ceases, which isthe proper moment for distillation, and I would recommend, rather toanticipate, than delay one hour after this period. 

ART. XIII. 

_How to fill and order the singling Still, when running Applesinglings. _

When you perceive your apples ready for distilling, fill the singlingstill with apples and water; using about half a hogshead apples in astill of 110 gallons, the residue water, first having cleaned the stillwell, and greased her previous to filling--put fire under her and bringher ready to head, as quick as possible, stirring the contents well witha broom until ready to head, of which you can judge by the warmth of theapples and water, which must be rather warm to bear your hand in it anylength of time. Wash the still head and worm clean, put on the head, paste it, keeping a good fire until she runs at the worm; run off 14gallons briskly, and catch the feints in a bucket to throw into the nextstill full, if the singling still too fast, provided she does not smokeat the worm. When the first still full is off, and before you go to fillher the second time, draw or spread the coals that may be under her, inthe furnace, and fill the furnace with wood. Shut up your furnace doorand put in your damper; by proceeding thus, you cool the still and avoidburning her; this plan I deem preferable to watering out the fire. Whenempty, rinse the still round with cold water, scrape and grease her, then she will be ready to receive a second charge. 

Care is necessary in scraping and greasing your still every time she isemptied, if this is neglected, the brandy may be burnt and the stillinjured. 

ART. XIV. 

_How to double Apple Brandy. _

Fill the doubling still with singlings, and add a quart of lime, (whichwill clear it) put fire under her and bring her to a run briskly--aftershe runs, lessen the fire and run her as slow as possible. Slow runningwill prevent any of the spirit from escaping, and make more and betterbrandy, than fast running. --Let the liquor filter thro a flannel clothfrom the worm. 

ART. XV. 

_How to prepare Peaches. _

Peaches like apples ought to be equally ripe, in order to insure anequal and regular fermentation--for where ripe and unripe fruit arethrown into the same hogshead, and ordered for distillation in this waya disadvantage is sustained. I therefore recommend to farmers anddistillers, when picking the peaches to assort them when putting them inhogsheads, all soft ripe peaches may go together, as also those whichare hard and less ripe--this will enable a more regular fermentation, and though the hard and less ripe, will take a longer time, than thesoft and ripe to ferment, and yield less, yet the disadvantage will notbe so great, as if mixed. 

They ought to be ground in a mill with metal nuts, that the stone andkernel may be well broken. The kernel when thus broken will give afiner flavor to the brandy, and increase the quantity. 

When they are ground they must be placed in hogsheads and worked in thesame way with apples, but distilled sooner or they will lose much morespirit by standing any time after fermentation than apples. It istherefore better to distil them a short time before they are doneworking than at any period after. 

ART. XVI. 

_How to double and single Peach Brandy. _

The same process must be observed in running off peaches as in apples, except that the singling still ought not to be run so fast, nor so muchfire kept under her, and more water used to prevent burning. 

SECTION VI. 

ARTICLE I. 

_The best method of setting Stills. _

If stills are not set right, great injury may accrue to them, in burningand damaging the sides, singeing the whiskey, and wasting of fuel too, are not the only disadvantages; but more damage may be done in sixmonths, than would pay a man of judgment for putting up twenty pair. 

If they are set with their bottoms to the fire, they are very apt toburn, without the utmost care of the distiller, in stirring her whennewly filled with cold beer, until she is warm, and by previouslygreasing the bottom well when empty. If wood be plenty, stills ought tobe set on an arch, but if scarce, the bottom ought to be set to thefire. The following method is calculated for a furnace of either two orfour feet long, and with the bottoms exposed, or on an arch as thedistiller may fancy. 

Make up a quantity of well worked mortar, composed of the greaterproportion of good clay, a little lime and cut straw. 

Lay the bottom of the furnace with flag stones, or good brick, from twoto four feet long, as may be deemed most proper, let it be from twelveto sixteen inches wide, and from twelve to fourteen high. Then if it isdesigned to turn an arch, set the end of a brick on each wall of thefurnace, leaning them over the furnace, till they meet in the middle--socontinue the range on each side, until the furnace is completely coveredin, leaving a small hole for the flue leading to the chimney behind, leaning towards the side, from which the flue is to be started, toproceed round the bilge of the still, which passage must be ten by fourinches wide. 

After completing the arch as described, lay thereon a complete bed ofmortar, well mixed with cut straw, set the still thereon, levelling herso that she will nearly empty her self by the stoop towards the cock;then fill up all round her with mortar to the lower rivets, carefullypreventing any stone or brick from touching her, (as they would tend toburn her) ... Then build the fender or fenders; being a wall composed ofbrickbats and clay well mixed with cut straw, build it from thecommencement of the flue, and continue it about half round the still ... This is to prevent the flames from striking the still sides, in its hotstate, immediately after it leaves the furnace, presuming that it willterminate before it reaches the end of this little wall or fender, between which, and the still, a space of two inches ought to be left forthe action of the heat, which space preserves, and prevents the wall orfender, from burning the still; the mode in common practice, being toplace it against the still, which will certainly singe or burn her. Whenthis defender is finished, commence a wall, which continue round, layinga brick for a foundation, about four inches from the lower rivets; thusraising this wall for the flue, continuing it at an equal distance fromthe still, leaving a concave to correspond with the bilge of the still, and to be of precisely the same width and height all round the still. This precaution is absolutely necessary in building the wall of the flueexactly to correspond with the form of the still, and equally distantall round, for reasons 1st. The fire acts with equal force on every partof the still, and a greater heat may be applied to her, without burning. 2d. It has a great tendency to prevent the still house from smoking. 

When the wall of the flue is completed round the still, and raised sohigh, that a brick when laid on the top of the wall will extend to therivets in the breast of the still or upper rivets, then completelyplaster very smooth and even, the inside of the flue, and then cover theflue with a layer of brick, with a slight fall, or leaning a little fromthe still outwards, so that if water were dropped thereon, it would runoff outwardly, carefully laying a layer of clay on the top of the wall, on which the brick may rest, and thereby prevent the brick from burningthe still; carefully forming the brick with the trowel, so as to fit thewall and rest more safely--cautiously covering them well with clay, &c. And closing every crevice or aperture, to prevent smoak from comingthro' or the heat from deserting the flue till it passes to the chimneyfrom the flue; then fill the still with water, and put a flow fire underher to dry the work. When the wall begins to dry, lay on a coat ofmortar, (such as the next receipt directs), about two inches thick, whenthis begins to dry, lay a white coat of lime and sand-mortar, smoothingwell with a trowel; rubbing it constantly and pressing it severely withthe trowel to prevent it from cracking. 

There are many modes of setting stills and bringing the fire up by fluesvariously constructed, but I have found the foregoing plan to afford asgreat a saving of fuel, and bringing the still to a boil as early as anyother. 

ART. II. 

_How to prevent the Plastering round Stills from cracking. _

This method of making water proof plastering on stills, is done entirelyin making the mortar, and putting it on, in making which, good clay andlime are absolutely necessary. 

When the mortar for the first coat is thoroughly worked, put as muchbrock of rye straw into it, as can be worked in, so that when the coatis put on, it may have a greater appearance of straw than mortar, whendry, and covered with the second coat composed of lime mortar, wellrubbed and pressed with the trowel until it be dry. A covering put on ofthose materials, will be found to continue firm and compact withoutcracking, as in the common mode. 

_The best method of boiling two, three or more Stills or Kettles withone fire or furnace. _

This method has been found to answer in some instances, and may perhapsdo generally if properly managed. I will here give the result of my ownexperiments. 

I set a singling still holding 180 gallons on a furnace of 18 by 14inches, and 4 feet six inches long, with the bottom to the fire, she hada common head and worm with scrapers and chains in her. I extended theflue, (or after passing it round her), to the doubling still which itlikewise went round--but to prevent too much heat from passing to thedoubling still, I fixed a shutter in the flue of the singling still, immediately above the intersection of the flue of the doubling still, toturn all the heat round her, and another shutter in the flue of thedoubling still at the intersection of the flue of the singling still, toshut the heat off from the doubling still if necessary. 

With this fixture I run six hogsheads off in every twenty four hours anddoubled the same, with the same heat and fire. I likewise had a boilerunder which I kept another fire, which two fires consumed about threecords and an half of wood per week, distilling at the rate of sixty-fivebushels of grain per week, and making about one hundred and ninetygallons in the same time. 

Before I adopted this method I kept four fires agoing, and made aboutthe same quantity of whiskey, consuming about four and an half cords ofwood per week, and was obliged to have the assistance of an additionaldistiller per week. 

I have since heard of the adoption of this plan with more success than Iexperienced. 

ART. III. 

_To set a doubling Still. _

As spirits can hardly be burned or singed in a doubling still, if notbefore done in singling, all the precaution necessary is to set them inthe best method for saving fuel, and preserving the still. Theinstructions given for setting a singling still, is presumed to beadequate to setting a doubling still. 

_How to prevent the singling Still from burning. _

If the singling still be well set, and is carefully greased with a pieceof bacon, tallow or hard soap, every time she is filled, she will seldomburn, but if she does burn or singe notwithstanding these precautions, it will be advisable to take her down and set her up a new ten times, rather than have her burned. 

SECTION VII. 

ARTICLE I. 

_How to clarify Whiskey, &c. _

Take any vessel of convenient size, take one end out and make it clean, by scalding or otherwise; bore the bottom full of holes, a quarter of aninch in diameter--lay thereon three folds of flannel, over which spreadground maple charcoal and burnt brick-dust, made to the consistence ofmortar, with whiskey, about two inches thick, pour your whiskey orbrandy thereon, and let it filter thro' the charcoal, flannel, &c. Afterwhich you will find the spirit to have scarcely any taste or smell ofwhiskey. --Elevate the filtering cask so as to leave room to place avessel to receive the spirit under it. 

ART. II. 

_How to make a Brandy resembling French Brandy, from Rye Whiskey orApple Brandy. _

Clarify the whiskey as the above receipt directs, after thus purifying, add one third or one fourth of French brandy, and it will be then foundstrongly to resemble the French brandy in taste and smell--and if kept afew years, will be found more salutary and healthful than French brandyalone. This mode of clarifying rids the spirit of any unpleasantflavour received in the process of distillation or from bad materials, and moreover, from all those vicious, poisonous properties contracted inthe still or worm from copper; such as foetid oil from the malt, whichfrequently unites with the verdigris, and combines so effectually withwhiskey, that it may possible require a frequent repetition of this modeof clarifying, to rid it completely of any unpleasant taste or propertycontracted as above stated. 

ART. III. 

_How to make a Spirit resemble Jamaica Spirit out of Rye Whiskey. _

This is done precisely in the manner laid down in the receipt for Frenchbrandy. 

ART. IV. 

_How to make a resemblance of Holland Gin out of Rye Whiskey. _

Put clarified whiskey, with an equal quantity of water, into yourdoubling still, together with a sufficient quantity of juniper berries, prepared; take a pound of unflacked lime, immerse it in three pints ofwater, stir it well--then let it stand three hours, until the lime sinksto the bottom, then pour off the clear lime water, with which boil halfan ounce of isinglass cut small, until the latter is dissolved--thenpour it into your doubling still with a handful of hops, and a handfulof common salt, put on the head and set her a running; when she beginsto run, take the first half gallon (which is not so good), and reserveit for the next still you fill--as the first shot generally containssomething that will give an unpleasant taste and colour to the gin. Whenit looses proof at the worm, take the keg away that contains the gin, and bring it down to a proper strength with rain water, which mustpreviously have been prepared, by having been evaporated and condensedin the doubling still and cooling tub. 

This gin when fined, and two years old, will be equal, if not superiorto Holland gin. 

The isinglass, lime water and salt, helps to refine it in the still, andthe juniper berries gives the flavor or taste of Holland gin. 

About thirteen pounds of good berries, are sufficient for one barrel. 

Be careful to let the gin as it runs from the worm, pass thro' a flannelcloth, which will prevent many unpleasant particles from passing intothe liquor, which are contracted in the condensation, and the overjuiceimbibed in its passage thro' the worm. 

ART. V. 

_The best method of making common country Gin. _

Take of singlings a sufficient quantity to fill the doubling still, puttherein ten or twelve pounds of juniper berries, with one shovel full ofashes, and two ounces alum--put on the bead, and run her off, as isdone in making whiskey. This is the common mode of making country gin;but is in this state little superior to whiskey, save as to smell andflavor. 

It is therefore in my mind, that the mode of clarifying, prescribed, ought to be pursued in all distilleries, so far as necessary to make asufficient quantity of good spirit for any market convenient--the supplyof respectable neighbors, who may prefer giving a trifle more pergallon, than for common stuff and for domestic use. And moreover, Ithink the distiller will meet a generous price for such clarified, andpure spirit, as he may send to a large mercantile town for sale--asbrewers and others, frequently desire such for mixing, brewing, makingbrandies in the French and Spanish mode, and spirits after the Jamaicacustom. And after the establishment of a filtering tub or hopper, prepared as before described, with holes, flannel or woollen cloth, andplenty of maple charcoal, and burnt brick-dust, a distiller may alwaysfind leisure to attend to the filtration; indeed it will be found assimple and easy, as the process for making ley from ashes in the countryfor soap. But I would suggest that spirit prepared and clarified in thisway, should be put into the sweetest and perfectly pure casks. 

New barrels will most certainly impart color, and perhaps some taste, which would injure the sale, if intended for a commercial town market, and for brewing, or mixing with spirits, from which it is to receive itsflavor. 

For my own use, I would put this spirit into a nice sweet cask, and toeach barrel I would add a pint of regularly, and well browned wheat, notburned but roasted as much as coffee. 

The taste of peach brandy may be imparted to it by a quantity of peachstone kernels, dried, pounded and stirred into the cask; in this way, those who are fond of the peach brandy flavor, may drink it withoutbecoming subject to the pernicious consequences that arise from theconstant use of peach brandy. Peach brandy, unless cleansed of its grossand cloying properties, or is suffered to acquire some years of age, hasa cloying effect on the stomach, which it vitiates, by destroying theeffect of the salival and gastric juices, which have an effect onaliment, similar to that of yeast on bread, and by its singularproperties prevents those juices from the performance of their usualfunctions in the fermentation of the food taken into thestomach--producing acid and acrimonious matter, which in warm climatesgenerates fevers and agues. Apple brandy has not quite a similar butequally pernicious effect, which age generally removes--indeed, agerenders it a very fine liquor, and when diluted with water, makes a veryhappy beverage, gives life and animation to the digesting powers, andrarely leaves the stomach heavy, languid and cloyed. Then both those, (indeed, all liquors, ) ought to be avoided when new, by persons ofdelicate habit, and those who do not exercise freely. A severe exerciseand rough life, generally enables the stomach to digest the most coarsefood, by liquor, however new. 

_On fining Liquors. _

Isinglass is almost universally used in fining liquors. Take about halfan ounce to the barrel--beat it fine with a hammer, lay it in aconvenient vessel, pour thereon two gallons whiskey, or a like quantityof the liquor you are about to fine, let it soak two or three days, ortill it becomes soft enough to mix--then stir it effectually, and addthe white and shells of half a dozen eggs--beat them up together andpour them into the cask that is to be fined, then stir it in the cask, bung it slightly, after standing three or four days it will besufficiently fine, and may be drawn off into a clean cask. 

ART. VI. 

_On colouring Liquors. _

One pound of brown sugar burnt in a skillet almost to a cinder, add aquart of water, which when stirred, will dissolve the sugar--whendissolved, this quantity will color three barrels. 

A pint of well parched wheat put into a barrel will colour it, and givemore the appearance of a naturally acquired colour, and an aged taste orflavor. 

ART. VII. 

_To correct the taste of singed Whiskey. _

Altho' this cannot be done effectually without clarifying, asprescribed, but Bohea tea will in a great measure correct a slightsinge--a quarter of a pound may be tried to the barrel. 

ART. VIII. 

_To give an aged flavor to Whiskey. _

This process ought to be attended to by every distiller, and with allwhiskey, and if carefully done, would raise the character, and add tothe wholesomeness of domestic spirits. 

It may be done by clarifying the singlings as it runs from thestill--let the funnel be a little broader than usual, cover it with twoor more layers of flannel, on which place a quantity of finely beatenmaple charcoal, thro' which let the singlings filter into your usualreceiving cask. When doubling, put some lime and charcoal in the still, and run the liquor thro' a flannel--when it loses proof at the worm, take away the cask, and bring it to proof with rain water that has beendistilled. To each hogshead of whiskey, use a pound of Bohea tea, andset it in the sun for two weeks or more, then remove it to a coolcellar, and when cold it will have the taste and flavor of old whiskey. If this method was pursued by distillers and spirits made 2d and 3dproof, it would not only benefit the seller, but would be an advantageto the buyer and consumer--and was any particular distiller to pursuethis mode and brand his casks, it would raise the character of hisliquor, and give it such an ascendancy as to preclude the sale of anyother, beyond what scarcity or an emergency might impel in a commercialcity. 

If distillers could conveniently place their liquor in a high loft, andsuffer it to fall to the cellar by a pipe, it would be greatly improvedby the friction and ebullition occasioned in the descent and fall. 

SECTION VIII. 

ARTICLE I. 

_Observations on Weather. _

Some seasons are better for fermentation than others. Should a hailstorm occur in the summer, the distiller should guard against coolingoff with water in which hail is dissolved, for it will not work well. 

If a thundergust happens when the hogsheads are in the highest state offermentation, the working will nearly cease, and the stuff begin tocontract an acidity. And when in the spring the frost is coming out ofthe ground, it is unfortunate when the distiller is obliged to use waterimpregnated with the fusions of the frost, such being very injurious tofermentation--Those changes and occurrences ought to be marked well, toenable a provision against their effects. This will be found difficultwithout the assistance of a barometer, to determine the changes of theweather--a thermometer, to ascertain correctly the heat of theatmosphere, and to enable a medium and temperature of the air to be keptup in the distillery; and from observation to acquire a knowledge of thedegree of heat or warmth, in which the mashing in the hogsheads fermentsto the greatest advantage, and when this is ascertained, a distiller mayin a close house sufficiently ventilated, and provided with convenientwindows, always keep up the degree or temperature in the air, mostadapted to the promotion of fermentation, by opening his windows ordoors to admit air, as a corrective; or by keeping them closed inproportion to the coldness of the weather:--And a hydrometer, useful inmeasuring and ascertaining the extent of water. Instructions for themanagement of those instruments generally attend them, it is thereforeunnecessary for me to go into a detail on this subject. --But it isabsolutely necessary that the careful and scientific distiller shouldpossess them, especially the two former, to guard against the changes ofthe weather, and preserve the atmosphere in the distillery, alwaysequally warm. 

ART. II. 

_Observations on Water. _

Distillers cannot be too particular in selecting good water fordistilling, when about to erect distilleries. 

Any water will do for the use of the condensing tubs or coolers, butthere are many kinds of water that will not answer the purpose ofmashing or fermenting to advantage; among which are snow and limestonewater, either of which possess such properties, as to require one fifthmore of grain to yield the same quantity of liquor, that would beproduced while using river water. 

Any water will answer the distillers purpose, that will dissolve soap, or will wash well with soap, or make a good lather for shaving. 

River or creek water is the best for distilling except when mixed withsnow or land water from clay or ploughed ground. If no river or creekwater can be procured, that from a pond, supplied by a spring, if thebottom be not very muddy will do, as the exposure to the sun, willgenerally have corrected those properties inimical to fermentation. Veryhard water drawn from a deep well, and thrown into a cistern, orreservoir and exposed to the sun and air for two or three days, has beenused in mashing with success, with a small addition of chop grain ormalt. I consider rain water as next in order to that from the river, formashing and fermentation. Mountain, slate, gravel and running water, areall preferable to limestone, unless impregnated with minerals--many ofwhich are utterly at variance with fermentation. With few exceptions, Ihave found limestone, and all spring water too hard for mashing, scalding or fermenting. 

ART. III. 

_Precautions against Fire_

Cannot be too closely attended to. The store house, or cellar forkeeping whiskey in, ought to be some distance from the distillery, andthe liquor deposited, and all work necessary in it done by day, to avoidall possible danger arising from candles or lamps, from which manyserious calamities have occurred. Suppose the cellar or place of depositto be entered at night by a person carrying a lamp or candle, and aleaking cask takes his attention, in correcting the leak, he may set hislamp on the ground covered with whiskey, or he may drop by chance onedrop of burning oil on a small stream of whiskey, which will communicatelike gun powder, and may cause an explosion, which may in all likelihooddestroy the stock on hand, the house, and the life of theindividual. --On this subject it is not necessary I should say much, asevery individual employed about a distillery must have some knowledge ofthe value of life and property. 

SECTION IX. 

ARTICLE I. 

_The duty of the owner of a Distillery. _

The main and first object of the proprietor of a distillery, is gain orprofit--and the second, it is natural, should be the acquiring acharacter or reputation for his liquor, and a desire to excelneighboring distilleries--in both of which, neglect and sloth willinsure disappointment. 

The active, cleanly, industrious and attentive proprietor uses thefollowing means. 

First. He provides his distillery with good sound grain, hogsheads, barrels, kegs, funnels, brooms, malt, hops, wood, &c. Of all of which hehas in plenty, nicely handled, and in good order. He also provides anhydrometer, thermometer, and particularly a barometer, duly observingthe instructions accompanying each, their utility and particular uses. 

Secondly. He is careful that his distiller does his duty, of which hecan be assured only, by rising at four o'clock, winter and summer, tosee if the distiller is up and at his business, and that every thing isgoing well--and to prepare every thing and article necessary--to attendand see the hogs fed, and that the potale or slop be cold when given, and that the cattle be slopped--that the stills are not burning, nor thecasks leaking, &c. &c. He observes the barometer, points out any changesin the weather, and pays an unremitted attention, seeing that all thingsare in perfect order, and enforcing any changes he may deem necessary. 

On the other hand, indolence begets indolence--The proprietor who sleepstill after sun rise, sets an example to his distiller and people, whichis too often followed--the distillery becomes cold from the want of aregular fire being kept up in her--the hogsheads cease to work orferment, of consequence, they will not turn out so much whiskey--andthere is a general injury sustained. And it may often occur, that duringone, two or three days in the week, the distiller may want grain, wood, malt, hops or some necessary--and perhaps all those things may bewanting during the same day ... And of course, the distiller standsidle. The cattle, hogs, &c. Suffer; and from this irregular mode ofmanaging, I have known the proprietor to sink money, sink in reputation, and rarely ever to attribute the effect to the right cause. 

_System and Method. _

A well timed observance of system and method are necessary in all thevarious branches of business pursued, and without which none succeeds sowell. 

And whilst the industrious, attentive and cleanly proprietor, may withcertainty, calculate on a handsome profit and certain advantages toresult from this business. He who conducts carelessly, may as certainlyreckon on sustaining a general loss. 

ART. II. 

_The duty of an hired Distiller_

Is to rise at four o'clock every morning. Wash and clean out the boiler, fill her up with clean water, put fire under her, and to clean, fill andput fire under the singling still--to collect and put in order formashing, his hogsheads--and as soon as the water is warm enough in theboiler to begin mashing, which he ought to finish as early in the day aspossible; for when the mashing is done, he will have time to scald andclean his vessels, to attend his doubling and singling still, to get inwood for next day, and to make his stock yeast, if new yeast is wanting. In short, the distiller ought to have his mashing finished by twelveo'clock every day, to see and have every thing in the still house, underhis eye at the same time; but he ought never to attempt doing more thanone thing at once--a distiller ought never to be in a hurry, but alwaysbusy. I have always remarked that the bustling unsteady distillerattempts doing two or three things at once, and rarely ever has hisbusiness in the same state of forwardness with the steady methodicalcharacter. 

SECTION X. 

ARTICLE I. 

_Profits of a Common Distillery. _

Profits arising from a distillery with two common stills, one containing110 gallons, and one containing 65 gallons that is well conducted for 10months. The calculations predicated on a site, distant about 60 milesfrom market. Due regard is paid to the rising and falling markets in thefollowing statement. The selling price of whiskey will always regulatethe price of grain, the distiller's wages, the prices of malt, hops, hauling, &c. Is rather above than below par. 

_Distillery, Dr. _

To 1077 bushels corn, at 50cents per bushel, is $ 538 50

533 bushels rye, at 60 cents 309 80

96 bushels malt, at 70 ditto 67 20______

1706 bushels total. 

60 pounds hops at 25 centsper pound 15

100 cords of wood, at 2 dollars 200

Distiller's wages per year andboarding 204 70

Hauling whiskey, at 4 centsper gallon 204 70

50 poor hogs at 4 dollars each 200 --------- $ 1739 90

 _Contra Cr. _

By 5118 gallons whiskey, at59 cents per gallon $ 255950 fat hogs at 7 dollars each 350 --------- $ 2939 ---------Leaving a balance of $ 1143 10

I have charged nothing for hauling of grain, &c. As the feed or slop formilk cows, young cattle, and fatting cattle, will more than pay thatexpense. 

An estimate of the profits arising from a patent distillery, (col. Anderson's patent improved) 1 still of 110 with a patent head, 1 stillof 85 gallons for a doubling still, and a boiler of metal, holding 110gallons. 

_Distillery, Dr. _

To 2454 bushels corn, at 50 cents per bushel $ 12271216 do. Rye, at 60 cents do. 729 60200 do. Malt at 70 cents do. 140 --------- 3870

120 pounds hops, at 25 cents per pound 30100 cords wood, at 2 dollars per cord 200

2 distillers wages, boarding, &c. 400

Hauling whiskey, per gallon at 4 cents 464 40

120 poor hogs at 4 dolls. Each 480 ________Total expense $ 3671

 _Contra, Cr. _

By 11610 gallons whiskey, at 50 cents per gallon $ 5805 50

120 fat hogs, at 7 dolls. Each 840 _________ $ 6645 50 _________Clear profit, $ 2974 50Profit of a common distillery 1148 10 _________Balance in favor of a patent distillery $ 1826 40 _________

To do the business of a patent distillery or to carry her on toadvantage, requires a little more capital to start with--but either thepatent or common distillery, when they have run two or three months, managed by an attentive and brisk dealing man, will maintain, or keepthemselves agoing. 

Where wood is scarce and money plenty, the patent distillery iscertainly to be recommended, indeed, in all cases, I would recommend it, where the proprietor has money enough. It is by far the most profitable, and will sooner or later become in general use in this country. 

ART. III. 

_Of Hogs. _

Raising, feeding and fattening hogs on potale, a business pursued andhighly spoken of, but from my experience I have discovered that few goodpigs can be raised entirely on potale--as it has a tendency to gripe andscour too much; but after they are weaned and a little used with slop, they will thrive well. 

If a hog in a cold morning comes running to a trough full of slop, thatis almost boiling, and is very hungry--their nature is so gluttonous &voracious, that it will take several mouthfuls before it feels theeffects of the heat, and endangers the scalding of the mouth, throat andentrails--and which may be followed by mortification anddeath;--moreover, hot feeding is the cause of so many deaths, andill-looking unhealthy pigs, about some distilleries--which inconveniencemight be avoided by taking care to feed or fill the troughs before theboiling slop is let out from the still. 

A distiller cannot be too careful of his hogs--as with care, they willbe found the most productive stock he can raise--and without careunproductive. 

The offals of distilleries and mills cannot be more advantageouslyappropriated than in raising of hogs--they are prolific, arrive atmaturity in a short period, always in demand. Pork generally sells formore than beef, and the lard commands a higher price than tallow; of thevalue of pork and every part of this animal, it is unnecessary for me toenter into detail; of their great value and utility, almost every personis well acquainted. 

The hog pens and troughs ought to be kept clean and in good order, thestill slop salted two or three times a week; when fattening, hogs shouldbe kept in a close pen, and in the summer a place provided to wallow inwater. 

Hogs that are fed on potale, ought not to lie out at night, as dew, rainand snow injures them--indeed such is their aversion to bad weather, that when it comes on, or only a heavy shower of rain, away they run, full speed, each endeavoring to be foremost, all continually crying out, until they reach their stye or place of shelter. 

At the age of nine months, this animal copulates first, and frequentlyearlier, but it is better engendering should be prevented, till the ageof eighteen months--for at an earlier age, the litter is uniformlysmall, and weakly, and frequently do not survive, besides the growth isinjured. It is therefore better not to turn a sow to breeding, till from18 to 24 months old. 

The sow goes four months with pig, and yields her litter at thecommencement of the fifth; soon after encourages and receives the boar, and thus produces two litters in the year. I have known an instance ofthree litters having been produced in the year from one female. 

A sow ought not to be permitted to suckle her pigs more than two orthree weeks, after which eight or nine only should be left with her, therest sold, or sent to market, or killed for use--at the age of threeweeks they are fit for eating, if the sow is well fed. A few sows willserve, and those kept for breeding, well selected from the litter, theresidue, cut and splayed. Care and pains is due in the choice of thebreed of hogs--the breeder had then better procure good ones, and of agood race at once, tho' the expense and trouble may seem material in theoutset, yet the keeping will be the same, and the produce perhaps fiftyper cent more. 

After the pigs are weaned, they ought to be fed for the first two weekson milk, water and bran, after which potale may be used in the room ofmilk. I would recommend a little mixed potale from an early period, andincrease it, so as to render them accustomed to the slop gradually. 

ART. IV. 

_Of the Diseases of Hogs. _

The only disease that I know of which seems to be peculiar to hogs, is akind of leprosy, commonly called measles, when it seizes them, theybecome dull and sleepy, if the tongue is pulled out, the palate andthroat will be found full of blackish spots, which appear also on thehead, neck, and on the whole body--the creature is scarce able to stand, and the roots of its bristles are bloody. As this disorder proceedschiefly from their gluttony and filth, and hot drinking of potale andslop; to remedy which, it would be commendable to feed on cold potale, or scarcely milk warm, to keep them clean, to mix salt occasionally withthe potale--tar their trough once a month, and give them a little groundantimony. 

In fattening hogs I have known them improve rapidly, after eating thewarm ashes from a fresh burned brush heap. Hickory or willow ashes willhave an effect to destroy worms, and I think ought to be used, they willeat it dry, when put in their troughs. 

ART. V. 

_On feeding Cattle and Milch Cows. _

Potale is a great creator of milk, and will increase the quantitygreatly in cows yielding milk, but no so good. Young cattle thrive verywell, that get hay or straw during the night. To fatten cattle thereought to be mixed with the slop, a little oil meal, or chopped flaxseed, or chopped corn. The cattle kept on still slop ought to get plenty ofsalt. Warm potale injures their teeth. 

SECTION XI. 

ARTICLE I. 

_Observations on erecting Distilleries. _

Those who are about to erect distilleries, have a handsome subject forconsideration; the advantages, and the probable disadvantages that mayarise from building on a particular site, or seat. The contiguity to achopping mill is a material consideration--Wood forming an importantarticle, should be taken into view--Grain merits also a great share ofattention. The water which forms, by no means, the least importantingredient should be well analyzed; and a share of thought is due tothe subject of a market for the whiskey, spirits and pork, produced fromthe establishment. --And should the water then prove good, soft andproper for fermentation, can be bro't over head, and the chopping millis not very inconvenient, and wood convenient and cheap, and grainplenty and at reasonable prices, and a market within one hundred miles, I have little doubt but that with proper economy and observance ofsystem, the establishment will prove very productive; and may beprogressed in with cheerfulness, and a reasonable hope of a fairretribution to the owner. 

A proper seat being fixed on, with sufficient fall to bring the waterover head, for it is very material, and an immense saving oflabor--material, because it prevents a loss, in running the stills, frompumping or want of water in the cooling tubs. The size of the housefollows, as requiring some more than usual calculation--houses aregenerally made too small, giving great inconvenience, and preventingthat nice attention to cleanliness, which forms a very important itemin the process of distilling. I would recommend a size sufficientlylarge for three stills, and to mash six hogsheads per day--one of col. Anderson's patent improved stills, I would consider, in many situations, as most desirable; at all events, I would recommend the preparation ofroom enough for three stills, if even it should be the intention of theowner to erect but two--for it is very probable, that after someexperience, he may determine to pursue the business more extensively, and add the patent still. 

The size then established, I would recommend the lower story to be 10feet high, this will leave room for the heated, or rarefied air toascend in the summer above the cooler, and more necessary air in thewarm season of the year, and prevent the unpleasant effect of a too warmair on the mashing hogsheads, and the sowing of the stuff infermentation--and moreover, prevent the unpleasant effects of smoak onthe distillers eyes. But it is important that the house should beerected on level ground with doors opposite each other, with plenty ofwindows to afford a draft and recourse of air, at pleasure, during thewarm season; and so that in the winter it may be closed and preservedperfectly warm--to which end it is most expedient the lower storyshould be well built with stone and lime, and neatly plastered--thewindows well glazed, with shutters &c. Thus provided, and a thermometerplaced in the centre of the house, a proper temperature may be kept upin the air of the house--for there is a certain degree of warmth whichexceeds for fermentation--this degree of heat, then correctlyascertained by the distiller, he may by a close attention to his duties, fires and the thermometer, always keep the air of the house in nearlythat same and most approved state; and even by a well timed observationguard against storms and casualties. To effectuate this grand andimportant object, some have divided the stills, placing the boiler atone end, and a singling and doubling still at the other; this mode willensure, in cold weather, the success of the measure more fully--othershave placed all the stills in the centre of the building--a plan thatwill do better in the winter than in the summer, and one I think lessfavourably of than that of dividing them. 

During the winter, the north or northwest side of the house should bekept quite close, permitting the house to be lighted from the moretemperate southward exposure. To calculate the window sashes to open byhinges, or to be taken entirely out in the summer, at pleasure, is in mymind advisable. 

SECTION XII. 

ARTICLE I. 

_On Wines. _

Presuming this work may be rendered more desirable to farmers, from theintroduction of some receipts for making domestic wine from the commonhedge grapes, or such as are common on fence rows and on high richgrounds, and which are pleasantly flavored after receiving frost, andalso for making cider in the best mode for preservation. I haveextracted a few from various author's. 

_Receipt for making Domestic Wine from the Autumn Blue Grape. _

About the latter end of September or about the first white frosts, gather the grapes which with us grow along old fences and hedges--pickall the grapes from the stems that are juicy, allowing two bushels thuspicked a little heaped, to the barrel. Mash them well between your handsin small parcels, either in earthen pans, or some convenient smallvessels--put them when mashed into a tub together, and add a littlewater so as to soak the pumice.... After stirring them well together, squeeze the pumice out from the liquor with your hands, as clean as youcan--then strain the juice through a hair sieve. If the juice seems notall extracted from the pumice at one soaking and squeezing, put water tothe pumice and squeeze them over again; take care not to add too muchwater, lest there should be more than the cask will hold. If after allthe ingredients are added, the cask is not full, it may then be filledup with water. To the liquor thus prepared, add two pounds of good, clean, rich low priced brown sugar, per gallon, stirring it in the tubtill all the sugar be dissolved; let it remain in the tub, and in a dayor two it will ferment, and the scum rise to the top, which must becarefully skimmed off--then put the wine into a clean nice barrel--donot bung it up tight. There is generally a fermentation in it the springfollowing, when the grape vines are in blossom, but racking it off justbefore that season will prevent its working too much. If it is wanted tobe soon ripe for use, put a quart of good old brandy after it is rackedoff, to the barrel, and give it air by leaving the bung quite loose. 

This mode of manufacturing wine for domestic use, is convenient and notexpensive to those who have it in their power to manufacture maplesugar. But the nice housewife or husbandmen of ingenuity, will, I fancy, devise some more neat mode of compressing the juice from the grape--aspressing it by the hand, would seem less cleanly, though thefermentation generally cleanses sufficiently. 

_Currant Wine_

Is managed in the same way. The same quantity of sugar is presumed toanswer--The juice is generally well strained thro' cloths, and when wellstirred, &c. With the sugar, and neatly racked off, is put by in a loftto ripen, in sweet casks. 

ART. II. 

_Directions for making Cider, British mode. _

The apples after being thrown into a heap should always be covered fromthe weather. The later the cider is made the better, as the juice isthen more perfectly ripened, and less danger to be feared fromfermentation. Nothing does more harm to cider than a mixture of rottenapples with the sound. The apples ought to be ground so close as tobreak the seeds which gives the liquor an agreeable bitter. The pumiceshould be pressed through hair bags, and the juice strained through twosieves, the uppermost of hair, the lower of muslin. After this the cidershould be put into open casks, when great attention is necessary todiscover the exact time in which the pumice still remaining in thejuice, rises on the top, which happens from the third to the tenth day, according as the weather is more or less warm. This body does not remainon top more than two hours; consequently, care should be taken to drawoff the cider before it sinks, which may be done by means of a plug. When drawn off, the cider is put into casks. Particular attention isagain required to prevent the fermentation, when the least inclinationtowards it is discovered. This may be done by a small quantity of ciderspirits, about one gallon to the hogshead. In March the cider should beagain drawn off, when all risque of fermentation ceases. Then it shouldbe put into good sweet casks, and in three years from that time, it willbe fit for bottling. Old wine casks are to be preferred; those whichcontain rum are ruinous to cider. Large earthen vessels might be madewith or without glazing, which would be preferable to any wooden vesselwhatever. When we compare this with the hasty American mode of makingcider, it is not to be wondered at that the English cider so infinitelyexcels ours. 

ART. III. 

_The following is a very highly approved American mode of making Cider. _

Take care to have every necessary utensil to be made use of in the wholeprocess, perfectly clean and free from every foreign smell. For thispurpose, before you begin your work, let your mill, trough and press bemade perfectly clean, by thoroughly washing, and if necessary, withscalding water. The casks are another material object, and if musty, orany other bad smell, one end should be taken out, and with shavings burnthe inside; then scrub them clean, and put in the head, scald them wellafterwards, and drain them perfectly; when dry, bung them tight and keepthem in a cool shady place until wanted for use. --The apples should bequite ripe, and all the unripe and rotten ones, leaves, and every otherthing that can tend to give the cider any disagreeable taste, carefullyseparated from them. I have found from careful attention and manyexperiments, that it is a great advantage to the cider to be separatedfrom the gross parts as soon as possible; for this purpose, I triedseveral methods: that which I found succeeded the best, I shall nowrelate, as by following it, I was able to preserve my cider in a soundstate, though made in the early part of the season. I took a large pipe, of about 150 gallons, had one of the heads taken out, and on the insideof the other laid on edge, four strips of boards, two inches wide, andon these strips placed a false bottom, filled with gimlet holes, threeinches a part. On this false bottom, I put a hair cloth, (old blanket orswingline tow will do) so as to prevent any sand from washing into thespace between the true and false bottoms; I procured a quantity ofcoarse sand, which was carefully washed in repeated waters, until itwould not discolor the clean water--then dried the sand, put it in thepipe, on the hair cloth, (coarse blanket or swingline tow, ) about 9inches thick. 

Thus having every thing in readiness, I went through the process ofmaking, as quick as possible, by having the apples ground fine early inthe morning, putting them in the press as fast as they were ground; andthen in sufficient quantities pressed out the juice, and put it over thesand in the cask, (having previously bored a gimlet hole in the side ofthe cask), between the true and false bottoms, in which I introduced alarge goose-quill, stopped with another. The pipe was placed so high, asto admit of a cask under it, to receive the liquor as it ran from thequill, which, if rightly managed, will be perfectly fine, and being putaway in a cool cellar, and stopped close, will keep well, and prove ofan excellent quality. 

This process is easy, and in every person's power to execute, as theliquor, by being cleared, from its gross feculences, will not run intothat violent fermentation, so destructive to the fine vinous flavor, which renders good cider so pleasing a drink. 

_Query. _ Would not a quart of good apple brandy to each barrel of cider, made in this way, prevent any fermentation?

But it is generally believed that cider is the better for havingundergone a fermentation, becoming then more active and light; ciderthat has undergone condensation, or has been boiled down until strong, has been found to keep sound some length of time, but it is too heavyand destructive to the appetite, cloying the digesting powers. --And bytoo frequent use, I fancy, will ultimately produce ague and fevers; andI fear, cider made according to the foregoing receipt, would have asimilar effect, but in a lesser degree. 

I would recommend after a due attention to cleanliness, in the applemill, trough, press and casks, that the apples be assorted, and havingbeen exposed to the air, under a roof or shed some time, selecting thesound only, that they be ground fine, and let stand soaking in thepumice twelve hours, and then pressed off, through a clean rye strawcheese (being the most common and convenient in the country, ) and whenflowing from the press, a vessel should be provided, with the bottomfull of gimlet holes, in the style of a riddle, on which lay a coarsecloth, then a layer of clean sand, over which a parcel of coarse ryestraw, and suffer it to filter thro' this vessel into the largereceiving tub; the rye straw will intercept the coarser pieces ofpumice, and may be changed frequently--This mode will rid the liquor ofall the coarser pieces of pumice--then I would recommend that the cidershould be placed in open hogsheads, such as are used for mashing grainin distilleries; those being raised about two feet and an half high onlogs or a scaffolding, under a shade or covering--a spile hole borednear the bottom of each, so as to admit a barrel to stand under thespile--in this state, I would recommend it to stand until it undergoes afermentation, carefully watching the top, and when the pumice is foundto have risen, to skim it off carefully, then having previously providedsweet barrels, draw it off by the spile hole, adding from a pint to aquart of apple brandy to each barrel of strong cider, bung it up tight, and store it where the frost will not injure it. In this way, I presumeit will keep well--and if the party be so disposed, I would recommendany bottling to be done in April, and during clear weather, though it issafe to bottle immediately after having undergone a thoroughfermentation. 

_The following Receipt to make an excellent American Wine, _

Was communicated to the Burlington Society for promoting domesticmanufactures, by Joseph Cooper, Esq. Of Gloucester county, state of NewJersey, and ordered to be published;--which, from its extremesimplicity, and economy, shewing the convenience with which a verypleasant, healthful beverage, may be kept by every family in ourcountry, is published in this work. And moreover, as it may have, insome degree, the happy effects of correcting the baneful and perniciouseffects of coffee, which is so commonly used for breakfast in our stateat present. 

Coffee, when first introduced, was used as a medicine only, and givenonly in a well clarified state, and sparingly--both from its soothingand pleasant effect, it become common, and now it is almost the onlybeverage used at breakfast by the farmers of Pennsylvania, and indeed, people suppose the morning repast is not genteel, unless the board isdecorated with this foreign beverage. If it was used in a moderatelystrong well clarified state, it would be less injurious, but it is toofrequently set down in a non descript state, difficult to be named, mixedwith the grounds, and so far from clear, as to be entitled to the epithetof muddy, and sweetened with bad sugar, carrying with it to the simplyignorant family, using it in this state, the cause in a great measure ofdestroying the tone of the stomach, overloading it, and by and by, theintroduction of a kind of dumb ague, or chill, followed with a fever, andoften creating intermitting and remitting fevers--consequences arisingout of the free use of bad provisions--which diseases are oftentimes keptup by the use of this infamously prepared coffee, for when the countrypeople get sick, coffee is too frequently used as the only diet. 

It is particularly injurious to bilious habits--souring on the stomach, becoming acid, creating acidity, and preventing the glandular juicysupplies from producing the usual fermentation of the food in thestomach--rendering the chyle vitiated, which in its usual route, imparts from the intestines, nourishment to the blood. Thus conveyingits baneful properties by this active vehicle, chyle to the blood, rendering it foetid, discoloured and by and by, often as difficult tobe named in its adulterated state as the composition which gave rise toit. Had we not very many instances of new diseases--complaints which themost eminent of the medical faculty can with difficulty name, or treatwith judgment, without first having made many essays and experimentsfatal to the lives of hundreds, which are increasing with everyapproaching season, and all since the adoption of coffee. (True, thefree use of ardent spirits and other luxuries operating on the effectsof indolence--of habits, produced by the wealth and independence of ouragricultural and commercial people, and growing out of an imitation ofthe elevated, affluent of society, born to fortune, and the successfulprofessional characters;) a doubt might present itself as to thepropriety of attributing many of those new complaints to coffee ... Butto a too plentiful use of bad provisions, and an indulgence of badhabits, we must attribute to them. And as badly made coffee is among themost pernicious kinds of food, and particularly when taken in themorning on an empty stomach, and that too made from very green coffee, (dreadfully poisonous when used too frequently before it acquires ageand a whiter colour, ) it may be condemned with greater propriety. Andwhilst this beverage is condemned and so highly to be disapproved of, itis well if we can invent a light, pure, active and healthful beverage tobe taken freely, between or at meals, calculated in its nature tocorrect in some degree, the unhappy effects of bad provisions--it istherefore I mention the

_Receipt for making Honey Wine. _

I put a quantity of the comb from which the honey had been drained, intoa tub, to which I add a barrel of cider, immediately from the press;this mixture was well stirred, and left to soak for one night. It wasthen strained before a fermentation took place, and honey was addeduntil the weight of the liquor was sufficient to bear an egg. It wasthen put into a barrel, and after the fermentation commenced, the caskwas filled every day for three or four days, with water, that the filthmight work out of the bung hole. When the fermentation moderated, I putthe bung in loosely, lest stopping it tight, might cause the cask toburst. --At the end of five or six weeks the liquor was drawn off into atub, and the white of eight eggs well beaten up, with a pint of cleansand, were put into it--I then added a gallon of cider spirit, and aftermixing the whole well together, I returned it into the cask, which waswell cleaned, bunged it tight and placed it in a proper situation forracking it off when fine. In the month of April following, I drew it offfor use, and found it equal in my opinion, to almost any foreignwine--in the opinion of many good judges it was superior. 

This success has induced me to repeat the experiments for three years, and I am persuaded that by using the clean honey, instead of the comb, as above described; such an improvement might be made as would enablethe citizens of the United States, to supply themselves with a trulyfederal and wholesome wine, which would not cost more than twenty centsper gallon, were all the ingredients procured at the market prices, andwould have the peculiar advantage over all other wines, hithertoattempted in this country, that it contains no foreign mixturewhatever, but is made from ingredients produced on our own farms. 

[_Columbian Magazine, November_ 1790. 

Doubtless the foregoing wine will be found strong, and if not wellclarified, or rather fined, may be heavy--and therefore will be foundexcellent when diluted freely with water, and when about to be drank, two thirds of water will be found necessary, and an improvement. 

Bottling the foregoing wine in April, will certainly render it moreexcellent, and I fancy it ought to be drank mixed with water, duringwarm weather, and between meals, as in its pure state it may be foundheavy. The gentleman who made the foregoing experiments, drew it off inkegs--this we presume was done to prevent its souring--as cider willsuffer, and become hard after broaching the cask, whereas whilst full itremained sound. All American vinous liquors are liable to sour, becausewe rarely understand or practice the proper mode of manufacturing. 

Complete cleansing and fermentation is absolutely necessary--and whenfermented, it must be well fined, and then drawn off in nice casks, orbottled--bottling is certainly the most effectual, and if a farmerprocures as many as three dozen of black bottles, they with three kegsof seven and an half gallons each, will hold the barrel. --The kegs wellbunged, will preserve the wine sound, and when a keg is broached, itmust be immediately drawn off and bottled. The bottles when emptied, ought to be rinsed and stood up in an airy closet to drain. 

_To make Elderberry Wine. _

_The editor is happy in introducing the following receipts which he isconfident is hardly known in America. The great quantities of theElderberry, which yearly goes to waste, might with very little troublebe manufactured into one of the most wholesome and agreeable wines everintroduced into America. _

To every two quarts of berries, add one gallon of water, boil it half anhour, then strain it, and add to every gallon of liquor, two and anhalf pounds of sugar, then boil it together for half an hour, and skimit well; when cool (not cold) put in a piece of toasted bread, spreadthick with brewer's yeast, to ferment. When you put this liquor into thebarrel, which must be done the next day, add to every gallon of liquor, one pound of raisins, chopped, and stir all together in the barrel, onceevery day, for a week, then stop it close. It will not be fit to tap'till the spring following the making; and the older the better. 

_To make Elderberry Wine, to drink, made warm, as a Cordial. _

Equal quantities of berries and water boiled together, till the berriesbreak, then strain off the liquor, and to every gallon thereof, putthree pounds of sugar, and spice, to your palate, boil all up together, let it stand till it becomes cool, (not cold); then put in a piece oftoasted bread, spread thick with brewer's yeast, to ferment, and in twoor three days, it will be fit to put in the barrel, then stop it close. This will be fit to drink at Christmas, but the older the better. 

SECTION XIII. 

ARTICLE I. 

_To make Rye Malt for Stilling. _

Steep it twenty four hours in warm weather, in cold, forty eight, so inproportion as the weather is hot or cold; drain off the water, lay it inyour malt cellar, about fifteen inches thick, for twelve hours; thenspread it out half that thickness, sprinkling water on it at the sametime; after that, it is to be turned three times a day with care, sprinkling water on as before. The thickness of the bed in this stage, must depend on the weather; work it in this way till the sprout is halfas long as the grain, then throw it on your withering floor, wither itthere for forty eight hours; then put it on your kiln to dry. 

ART. II. 

_Of Brewing Beer. _

As the following is intended principally for the use of privatefamilies, it will be necessary to begin with directions how to choosegood Malt; for which, see page 67. 

_Of the Brewing Vessels. _

To a copper that holds 36 gallons, the mash-tub ought to be at least bigenough to contain six bushels of malt, and the copper of liquor, androom for mashing or stirring it: The under back, coolers and workingtubs, may be rather fitted for the conveniency of the room, than to aparticular size; for if one vessel be not sufficient to hold yourliquor, you may take a second. 

_Of cleaning and sweetening Casks & Brewing Vessels. _

If a cask, after the beer is drank out, be well stopt to keep out theair, and the lees remaining in it till you want to use it again, youwill need only to scald it well, and take care of the hoops before youfill it; but if air gets into a foul empty cask, it will contract an illscent in spight of scalding. A handful of bruised pepper boiled in thewater you scald with, will take out a little musty smell; but the surestway is to take out the head of the cask, and let the cooper shave andburn it a little, and then scald it for use; if you cannot convenientlyhave a cooper to the cask, get some stone lime, and put about threepound into a barrel, (and proportionally to smaller or bigger vessels)and put to it about six gallons of cold water, bung it up, and shake itabout for some time, and afterwards scald it well; or for want of lime, take a linen rag, and dip it in melted brimstone, and fasten one end tothe bung, and light the other, and let it hang on the cask. You mustgive it a little air, else it will not burn; but keep in as much of thesulphur as you can. Scald it afterwards, and you will find no ill smell. 

If you have new casks, before you fill them, dig places in the earth, and lay them half their depth with their bung holes downward, for aweek; and after well scalding them, you may venture to fill them. 

Another way to proceed, if your brewing vessels are tinged with any illsmell, is to take unflacked lime and water, and with an old broom scrubthe vessel whilst the water is hissing, with the lime; and afterwardstake all this lime and water away, and put fresh water into the vessel, and throw some bay or common salt into each, and let it stand a day ortwo; and when you come to brew, scald your vessels, throw into them alittle malt-dust or bran; and this will not only finish theirsweetening, but stop them from leaking. 

But since there is so much trouble in getting vessels sweet after theyhave been neglected, you ought to make all thorough clean after brewing, and once a month to fill your vessels with fair water, and let it offagain in two or three days. 

_Of mashing or raking your Liquors. _

Suppose you take six bushels of malt, and two pounds of hops, and wouldmake of it one barrel of strong, and two barrels of small beer. 

Heat your first copper of liquor for mashing, and strew over it a doublehandful of bran or malt; by which you will see when it begins to boil;for it will break and curl, and then it is fit to be let off into themash tub, where it must remain till the steam is quite spent, and youcan see your face in it, before you put in your malt; and then you beginto mash, stirring it all the while you are putting in the malt: but keepout about half a bushel dry, which you are to strew over the rest, whenyou have done stirring it, which will be as soon as you have well mixedit with the liquor, and prevented it from clodding. 

After the dry malt is laid on, cover your mash tub with cloths, toprevent losing any spirit of the malt, and let it so remain for twohours. Meanwhile have another copper of liquor hot; and at two hours endbegin to let off your first wort into the under-back. Receive a pailfulof the first running, and throw it again upon the malt. --You will findthat the malt has sucked up half of your first copper of liquor; andtherefore to make up your quantity of wort for your strong beer, youmust gradually lade out of the second copper, and strew bowl after bowlover the malt, giving it time to soak thro', and keeping it running byan easy stream, till you perceive you have about forty gallons, which inboiling and working will be reduced to thirty-six. 

If you throw into the under-back (whilst you are letting off) about halfa pound of hops, it will preserve it from foxing, or growing sour orropy. 

Your first wort being all run off, you must soften the tap of the mashtub; and take a copper of hot liquor for your second mashing, stirringup the malt as you did at first, and then cover it close for two hoursmore. Meanwhile you fill your copper with the first wort, and boil itwith the remainder of the two pounds of hops, for an hour and an half, and then lade it off into the coolers. 

Contrive to receive the hops in a sieve, basket, or thin woolen bag thatis sweet and clean; then immediately fill your copper with cold liquor, renew your fire under it, and begin to let off your second wort, throw ahandful of hops into the under-back, for the same reason as before: youwill want to lade a few bowls full of liquor over the malt to make upthe copper full of second wort; and when you have enough, fasten the tapand mash a third time after the same manner, and cover it close foranother two hours; and then charge your copper with the second wort, boiling it for an hour with the same hops. 

By this time you may shift your first wort out of the coolers into aworking tub, to make room for the second wort to come into the coolers;and then your copper being empty, you may heat as much liquor as willserve you to lade over the malt, or, by this time, rather grains, tomake up your third and last copper of wort, which must be bottled withthe same hops over again; and then your coolers are discharged of yoursecond wort, to make room for the third; and when they are both of aproper coolness, they may be put together before you set them a working. 

During the time of shifting your liquors out of the copper, it is ofconsequence to take care to preserve it from receiving damage byburning: you should always contrive to have the fire low, or else todamp it at the time of emptying, and be very expeditious to put in freshliquor. 

_Of working the Liquor. _

In this, regard must be had to the water: liquor naturally grows warm inworking; therefore, in mild weather, it should be cold before it be seton, but a little warm in cold weather. The manner of doing it, is to putsome good sweet yeast into a hand-bowl or piggin, with a little warmwort; then put the hand-bowl to swim upon the wort in the working tub, and in a little while it will work out, and leisurely mix with the wort, and when you find the yeast is gotten hold of the wort, you must lookafter it frequently; and if you perceive it begins to heat and fermenttoo fast, lade some of it out into another tub; and when grown cold, itmay be put back again; or if you reserve some of the raw wort, you maycheck it leisurely, by stirring it in with a hand-bowl. The cooler youwork your liquor, the better, provided it does but work well. 

If you happen to check it too much, you may forward its working, byfilling a gallon stone bottle with boiling water, cork it close and putthe bottle into the working tub. --An ounce or two of powdered gingerwill have the same effect. 

There are a variety of methods in managing liquors whilst they areworking. --Some people beat the yeast of strong beer and ale, once in twoor three hours, for two or three days together. 

This they reckon makes the drink more heady, but withal hardens it so asto be drinkable in two or three days; the last day of beating it in, (stirring the yeast and beer together) the yeast, as it rises, willthicken; and then they take off part of the yeast, and beat in the rest, which they repeat as often as it rises thick; and when it has doneworking, they tun it up, so as it may just work out of the barrel. 

Others again do not beat it in at all, but let their strong drink workabout two days, or till they see the ferment is over; and then they takeoff the top yeast, and either by a tap near the bottom, let it off sine, or else lade it out gently, to leave the sediment and yeast at thebottom. 

This way is proper for liquor that is to be drank soon: but if it be tokeep, it will want the sediment to feed upon, and may probably growstale, unless you make artificial lees: This you may make of a quart ofbrandy, and as much flour of wheat as will make it into dough; put themin lumps into the bung hole as soon as it has done working. Or else takea pound of the powder of oyster shells and mix it with a pound oftreacle or honey, and put it in soon after it has done working. 

It would add to the goodness, as well as sining of your malt liquor, ifyou took two quarts of wheat, and make them very dry and crisp in anoven, or before the fire, and boil them in your first copper ofwort. --They would strain off with your hops, and might be put with theminto the second copper. 

_Of the fining of Malt Liquors. _

It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which it seldom failsto do in due time, if rightly brewed and worked; but as disappointmentssome times happen, it will be necessary to know what to do in suchcases. 

Ivory shavings boiled in your wort, or hartshorn shavings put into yourcask just before you bung it down, will do much towards fining andkeeping your liquor from growing stale. 

Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fining all sorts ofliquors; they first beat it well with a hammer or mallet, and lay it ina pail, and then draw off about two gallons of the liquor to be finedupon it, and let it soak two or three days; and when it is soft enoughto mix with the liquor, they take a whisk, and stir it about till it isall of a ferment, and white froth; and they frequently add the whitesand shells of about a dozen of eggs, which they beat in with it, and putaltogether into the cask; then with a clean mop-stick, or some suchthing, stir the whole together; and then lay a cloth, or piece of paperover the bung-hole, till the ferment is over; and then bung it up close, in a few days it will fall fine. 

But if you want to fine only a small quantity, take half an ounce ofunflacked lime, and put it into a pint of water, and stir it welltogether, and let it stand for two or three hours, or till the limesettle to the bottom; then pour the water off clear, and throw away thesediment; then take half an ounce of isinglass cut small, and boil it inthe lime water till it dissolves; then let it cool, and pour it into thevessel, &c. 

_Of the season for Brewing. _

The season for brewing keeping-beer is certainly best before Christmas, for then your malt is in perfection, not having time to contract eithera musty smell, dust or weavels, (an insect that eats out the heart ofthe malt) and the waters are then seldom mixed with snow; and then fourpounds of hops will go as far as five in the spring of the year: For youmust increase in the quantity of hops as you draw towards summer. But, in short, chuse moderate weather as much as you can for brewing, and ifyou have a kindly cellar besides to keep your liquor in, that will notbe much affected by extremity of heat or cold, you may reasonably expectgreat satisfaction in your brewery. 

Avoid as much as possible brewing in hot weather; but if you arenecessitated to brew, make no more than present drinking, for it willnot keep. 

_To make Elderberry-Beer or Ebulum. _

Take a hogshead of the first and strong wort, and boil in the same onebushel of picked Elderberries, full ripe; strain off, and when cold, work the liquor in the hogshead, and not in an open tun or tub; andafter it has lain in the cask about a year, bottle it; and it will be agood rich drink, which they call ebulum; and has often been preferred toportwine, for its pleasant taste, and healthful quality. 

N. B. There is no occasion for the use of sugar in this operation;because the wort has strength and sweetness enough in itself to answerthat end; but there should be an infusion of hops added to the liquor, by way of preservation and relish. 

Some likewise hang a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel. 

_To make improved and excellent wholesome Purl. _

Take Roman wormwood two dozen, gentian-root six pounds; calamusaromatics (or the sweet flag root) two pounds; a pound or two of thegalen gale-root; horse radish one bunch; orange peal dried, andjuniper berries, each two pounds; seeds or kernels of Seville orangescleaned and dried, two pounds. 

These being cut and bruised, put them into a clean butt, and start yourmild brown, or pale beer upon them, so as to fill up the vessel, aboutthe beginning of November, and let it stand till the next season; andmake it thus annually. 

_To brew Strong Beer. _

To a barrel of beer take two bushels of wheat just cracked in the mill, and some of the flour sifted out of it; when your water is scalding hot, put it into your mash-vat, there let it stand till you can see your facein it; then put your malt upon that, and do not stir it; let it standtwo hours and an half; then let it run into a tub that has two pounds ofhops in it, and a handful of rosemary flowers; and when it is all run, put it into the copper, and boil it two hours; then strain it off, setting it a cooling very thin, and setting it a working very cool;clear it very well before you put it a working; put a little yeast toit; when the yeast begins to fall, put it into your vessel, put in apint of whole grain, and six eggs, then stop it; Let it stand a year, and then bottle it. 

A good table-beer may be made, by mashing again, after the preceding isdrawn off; then let it stand two hours, and let that run, and mashagain, and stir it as before; be sure to cover your mashing-vat well;mix the first and second running together. 

_To make China Ale. _

To six gallons of ale, take a quarter of a pound or more of China root, thin sliced, and a quarter of a pound of coriander seeds, bruised--hangthese in a tiffany, or coarse linen bag, in the vessel, till it has doneworking; and let it stand fourteen days before you bottle. 

_To make Ale, or any other liquor, that is too new, or sweet, drinkstale. _

To do this to the advantage of health, put to every quart of ale, orother liquor, 10 or 12 drops of the true spirit of salt, and let them bewell mixed together, which they will soon do it by the subtile spiritspenetrating into all parts, and have proper effect. 

_To recover sour Ale. _

Scrape fine chalk a pound, or as the quantity of liquor requires, more;put it into a thin bag into the ale. 

_To recover Liquor that is turned bad. _

If any liquor be pricked or fading, put to it a little syrup of clay, and let it ferment with a little barm, which will recover it; and whenit is well settled, bottle it up, put in a clove or two, with a lump ofloaf sugar. 

_Directions for Bottling. _

You must have firm corks, boiled in wort, or grounds of beer; fillwithin an inch of the cork's reach, and beat it in with a mallet; then, with a small brass wire, bind the neck of the bottle, bring up the ends, and twist them over with a pair of pincers. 

_To make a quarter of a hogshead of Ale, and a hogshead of Beer, ofcooked Malt. _

Take five strike of malt not ground too small; put in some boilingwater, to cover the bottom of your mashing-vat before you put in yourmalt; mash it with more boiling water, putting in your malt at severaltimes, that it may be sure to be all wet alike; cover it with a peck ofwheat bran, then let it stand thus mashed four hours, then draw offthree gallons of wort, and pour it upon that you have mashed, so let itstand half an hour more, till it runs clear, then draw of all that willrun, and take two quarts of it to begin to work up with the barm, whichmust be about a pint and a half--put in the two quarts of wort at threetimes to the barm; you need not stir it till you begin to put in theboiled wort. 

You will not have enough to fill your vessel at first; wherefore youmust pour on more boiling water, immediately after the other has donerunning, till you have enough to fill a quarter of a hogshead, and thenpour on water for a hogshead of beer. 

As soon as the ale wort has run off, put a third part into theboiler--when it boils up, take off the scum, which you may put upon thegrains for the small beer--when it is skimmed, put in a pound and anhalf of hops, having first sifted out the seeds, then put in all thewort, and let it boil two hours and an half, afterwards strain into twocoolers, and let it stand to cool and settle, then put it to cool alittle at a time, to the barm, and two quarts of wort, and beat it welltogether: every time you put the wort in, be sure you keep the settlingout. 

Suppose you brew early on Thursday morning, you may tun it at 9 or 10 onSaturday morning. 

Do not fill your vessel quite full, but keep about three gallons to putin, when it has worked 24 hours, which will make it work again. 

As soon as it hath done working, stop it up, put the drink as cool asyou can together; thus it will work well. 

_To make Treacle Beer. _

Boil two quarts of water, put into it one pound of treacle or molasses, stir them together till they are well mixed; then put six or eightquarts of cold water to it, and about a tea cup full of yeast or barm, put it up in a clean cask or stein, cover it over with a coarse cloth, two or three times double, it will be fit to drink in two or three days. 

The second and third time of making, the bottom of the first beer willdo instead of yeast. 

If you make a large quantity, or intend it for keeping, you must put ina handful of hops and another of malt, for it to feed on, and when doneworking, stop it up close. 

The above is the best and cheapest way of making treacle beer, tho' somepeople add raisins, bran, wormwood, spices, such fruit, &c. As are inseason, but that is just as you fancy. 

Indeed many pleasant, cheap, and wholesome drinks may be made fromfruits, &c. If they are bruised and boiled in water, before the treacleis added. 

The plan of manufacturing domestic wines, mead and small beer, onceestablished and understood in a family, becomes easy--is considered aduty--and the females prepare as regularly for renewing them, as forbaking, and doing every other branch of business. Many families amidstplenty of ingredients and means, rarely have a comfortable beverageunder their roof--this is attributable to indolence, stupidity and wantof knowledge. --A little well timed, planning and system, with littlemore than usual labour, by the intelligent housewife, will causecomfort and plenty to reign throughout, and prove a fine and salutaryexample to society. Besides, the pleasure a lady derives from presentinga glass of good wine, in a nice clean glass to her welcome visitants, will always amply compensate for the trouble of manufacturing, andpreparing it; but when the more intelligent pass a handsome and wellmerited compliment on the neatness and quality of her fare--she deriveshappiness from her industry, and a degree of pleasure approaching toexquisite. She may be esteemed one "who hath used her active facultiesfor the benefit of her family and society, and not only deserves well ofsociety, but of heaven, for the judicious and liberal exercise of themind, that god-like intellect, among the finest gifts of the munificentcreator of worlds. " But of her, who sitteth still and inactive, and dothnot exercise those intellectual powers, it may be said "she is of anestrayed soul, " and "hath buried her talent. " And neither merits theattention of society, or the grateful love of her husband andfamily--and throws herself on the mercy of her God for forgiveness, forher numerous omissions, in withholding the exercise of her activefaculties--presuming the being or individual, who is capable of theneglect of one duty, is capable of neglecting all--and tho' some littleappearance may be kept up, yet conviction is eternally in the eye of thegreat judge--and not to be evaded. 

Thus then the laws of society, morality and religion, requiring theactive exercise of our person and faculties--offering the finest andmost inducing rewards, the words of our language are capable ofdescribing, in the health afforded from exercise; the example, fromwhich society is benefitted; the pleasure derived from the approbationof our neighbors, and a conscientiousness of having performed our dutieshere, and living by the exercise of a proper system of economy, in aconstant state of independence, always in possession of the means ofalleviating the condition of the indigent and unfortunate insociety--and relieving the wants of our friends--and above all, the hopeof eternal happiness in the approbation of heaven hereafter. 

_FINIS_