TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES

1. Quotes, parentheses and other punctuation are sometimes missing or missplaced in the original. These have been made consistent with modern convention. 

2. Apostrophes, where missing in the original, have been added. 

3. Footnotes have been numbered sequentially and moved to the end the book. 

4. Misspelled words have been corrected and such changes noted at the end of the book. 

THEPENNYLESPILGRIMAGE, OR

The Money-lesse perambulation, of JOHN TAYLOR, _Alias_the Kings Majesties_Water-Poet_. 

HOW HE TRAVAILED ON FOOTfrom _London_ to _Edenborough_ in _Scotland_, not carryingany Money to or fro, neither Begging, Borrowing, or Asking Meate, drinke orLodging. 

_With his Description of his Entertainment_in all places of his Journey, and a true Reportof the unmatchable Hunting in the _Brea_of _Marre_ and _Badenoch_ in_Scotland_. 

With other Observations, some serious andworthy of Memory, and some merryand not hurtfull to be Remembred. 

_Lastly that (which is Rare in a Travailer)all is true. _

LONDON

Printed by _Edw: Allde_, at the charges of theAuthor. 1618

TO THE TRULYNOBLE AND RIGHTHONORABLE LORD GEORGE MARQUISof Buckingham, Viscount Villiers, Baron ofWhaddon, Justice in Eyre of all his Majesty'sForests, Parks, and Chases beyond Trent, Masterof the Horse to his Majesty, and one of the Gentlemenof his Highness Royal Bed-Chamber, Knightof the most Noble Order of the Garter, andone of his Majesty's most HonorablePrivy Council of both theKingdoms of Englandand Scotland. 

Right Honorable, and worthy honoured Lord, as in my Travels, I wasentertained, welcomed, and relieved by many Honourable Lords, WorshipfulKnights, Esquires, Gentlemen, and others both in England and Scotland. So now your Lordship's inclination hath incited, or invited my poor museto shelter herself under the shadow of your honorable patronage, notthat there is any worth at all in my sterile invention, but in allhumility I acknowledge that it is only your Lordship's acceptance, thatis able to make this nothing, something, and withal engage me ever. 

 Your Honors, In all observance, JOHN TAYLOR. 

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TO ALL MY LOVING ADVENTURERS, BY WHAT NAME OR TITLE SOEVER, MY GENERAL SALUTATION. 

_Reader, these Travels of mine into_ Scotland, _were not undertaken, neither in imitation, or emulation of any man, but only devised bymyself, on purpose to make trial of my friends both in this Kingdom of_England, _and that of_ Scotland, _and because I would be an eye-witnessof divers things which I had heard of that Country; and whereas manyshallow-brained Critics, do lay an aspersion on me, that I was set on byothers, or that I did undergo this project, either in malice, or mockageof Master_ Benjamin Jonson, _I vow by the faith of a Christian, thattheir imaginations are all wide, for he is a gentleman, to whom I am somuch obliged for many undeserved courtesies that I have received fromhim, and from others by his favour, that I durst never to be so impudentor ungrateful, as either to suffer any man's persuasions, or mine owninstigation, to incite me, to make so bad a requital, for so muchgoodness formerly received; so much for that, and now Reader, if youexpect_

That I should write of cities' situations, Or that of countries I should make relations:Of brooks, crooks, nooks; of rivers, bournes and rills, Of mountains, fountains, castles, towers and hills, Of shires, and piers, and memorable things, Of lives and deaths of great commanding kings, I touch not those, they not belong to me;But if such things as these you long to see, Lay down my book, and but vouchsafe to readThe learned _Camden_, or laborious _Speed_. 

 _And so God speed you and me, whilst I rest

 Yours in all thankfulness:_

 JOHN TAYLOR. 

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TAYLOR'SPENNILESS PILGRIMAGE. 

 List Lordlings, list (if you have lust to list) I write not here a tale of had I wist: But you shall hear of travels, and relations, Descriptions of strange (yet English) fashions. And he that not believes what here is writ, Let him (as I have done) make proof of it. The year of grace, accounted (as I ween) One thousand twice three hundred and eighteen, And to relate all things in order duly, 'Twas Tuesday last, the fourteenth day of July, Saint _Revels_ day, the almanack will tell ye The sign in _Virgo_ was, or near the belly: The moon full three days old, the wind full south; At these times I began this trick of youth. I speak not of the tide, for understand, My legs I made my oars, and rowed by land, Though in the morning I began to go Good fellows trooping, flocked me so, That make what haste I could, the sun was set, E're from the gates of _London_ I could get. At last I took my latest leave thus late, At the Bell Inn, that's _extra Aldersgate_. There stood a horse that my provant[1] should carry, From that place to the end of my fegary, [2] My horse no horse, or mare, but gelded nag, That with good understanding bore my bag: And of good carriage he himself did show, These things are excellent in a beast you know. There in my knapsack, (to pay hunger's fees) I had good bacon, biscuit, neat's-tongue, cheese With roses, barberries, of each conserves, And mithridate, that vigorous health perserves: And I entreat you take these words for no-lies, I had good _Aqua vitę, Rosa_ so-lies: With sweet _Ambrosia_, (the gods' own drink) Most excellent gear for mortals, as I think, Besides, I had both vinegar and oil, That could a daring saucy stomach foil. This foresaid Tuesday night 'twixt eight and nine, Well rigged and ballasted, both with beer and wine, I stumbling forward, thus my jaunt begun, And went that night as far as _Islington_. There did I find (I dare affirm it bold) A Maidenhead of twenty-five years old, But surely it was painted, like a whore, And for a sign, or wonder, hanged at door, Which shows a Maidenhead, that's kept so long, May be hanged up, and yet sustain no wrong. There did my loving friendly host begin To entertain me freely to his inn: And there my friends, and good associates, Each one to mirth himself accommodates. _At Well-head_ both for welcome, and for cheer, Having a good _New ton_, of good stale beer: There did we _Trundle_[3] down health, after health, (Which oftentimes impairs both health and wealth. ) Till everyone had filled his mortal trunk, And only _No-body_[3] was three parts drunk. The morrow next, Wednesday Saint _Swithin's_ day, From ancient _Islington_ I took my way. At _Holywell_ I was enforced carouse, Ale high, and mighty, at the Blindman's House. But there's a help to make amends for all, That though the ale be great, the pots be small. At _Highgate_ Hill to a strange house I went, And saw the people were to eating bent, In either borrowed, craved, asked, begged, or bought, But most laborious with my teeth I wrought. I did not this, 'cause meat or drink was scant, But I did practise thus before my want; Like to a Tilter that would win the prize, Before the day he'll often exercise. So I began to put in use, at first These principles 'gainst hunger, 'gainst thirst. Close to the Gate, [4] there dwelt a worthy man, That well could take his whiff, and quaff his can, Right Robin Good-fellow, but humours evil, Do call him _Robin Pluto_, or the devil. But finding him a devil, freely hearted, With friendly farewells I took leave and parted, And as alongst I did my journey take, I drank at _Broom's well_, for pure fashion's sake, Two miles I travelled then without a bait, The Saracen's Head at _Whetstone_ entering straight, I found an host, that might lead an host of men, Exceeding fat, yet named _Lean_, and _Fen_. [5] And though we make small reckoning of him here, He's known to be a very great man there. There I took leave of all my company, Bade all farewell, yet spake to _No-body_. Good reader think not strange, what I compile, For _No-body_ was with me all this while. And _No-body_ did drink, and, wink, and scink, And on occasion freely spent his chink. If anyone desire to know the man, Walk, stumble, _Trundle_, but in _Barbican_. There's as good beer and ale as ever twang'd, And in that street kind _No-body_[6] is hanged. But leaving him unto his matchless fame, I to St. _Albans_ in the evening came, Where Master _Taylor_, at the Saracen's Head, Unasked (unpaid for) me both lodged and fed. The tapsters, hostlers, chamberlains, and all, Saved me a labour, that I need not call, The jugs were filled and filled, the cups went round, And in a word great kindness there I found, For which both to my cousin, and his men, I'll still be thankful in word, deed, and pen. Till Thursday morning there I made my stay, And then I went plain _Dunstable_ highway. My very heart with drought methought did shrink, I went twelve miles, and no one bade me drink. Which made me call to mind, that instant time, That drunkenness was a most sinful crime. When _Puddle-hill_ I footed down, and past A mile from thence, I found a hedge at last. There stroke we sail, our bacon, cheese, and bread, We drew like fiddlers, and like farmers fed. And whilst two hours we there did take our ease, My nag made shift to mump green pulse[7] and peas. Thus we our hungry stomachs did supply, And drank the water of a brook hard by. Away toward _Hockley_ in the Hole, we make, When straight a horseman did me overtake, Who knew me, and would fain have given me coin, I said, my bonds did me from coin enjoin, I thanked and prayed him to put up his chink, And willingly I wished it drowned in drink. Away rode he, but like an honest man, I found at _Hockley_ standing at the Swan, A formal tapster, with a jug and glass, Who did arrest me: I most willing was To try the action, and straight put in bail, My fees were paid before, with sixpence ale, To quit this kindness, I most willing am, The man that paid for all, his name is _Dam_, At the Green Dragon, against _Grays-Inn_ gate, He lives in good repute, and honest state. I forward went in this my roving race, To _Stony Stratford_ I toward night did pace, My mind was fixed through the town to pass, To find some lodging in the hay or grass, But at the _Queen's Arms_, from the window there, A comfortable voice I chanced to hear, Call _Taylor, Taylor_, and be hanged come hither, I looked for small entreaty and went thither, There were some friends, which I was glad to see, Who knew my journey; lodged, and boarded me. On Friday morn, as I would take my way, My friendly host entreated me to stay, Because it rained, he told me I should have Meat, drink, and horse-meat and not pay or crave. I thanked him, and for his love remain his debtor, But if I live, I will requite him better. (From _Stony Stratford_) the way hard with stones, Did founder me, and vex me to the bones. In blustering weather, both for wind and rain, Through _Towcester_ I trotted with much pain, Two miles from thence, we sat us down and dined, Well bulwarked by a hedge, from rain and wind. We having fed, away incontinent, With weary pace toward _Daventry_ we went. Four miles short of it, one o'ertook me there, And told me he would leave a jug of beer, At _Daventry_ at the Horse-shoe for my use. I thought it no good manners to refuse, But thanked him, for his kind unasked gift, Whilst I was lame as scarce a leg could lift, Came limping after to that stony town, Whose hard streets made me almost halt right down. There had my friend performed the words he said, And at the door a jug of liquor staid, The folks were all informed, before I came, How, and wherefore my journey I did frame, Which caused mine hostess from her door come out, (Having a great wart rampant on her snout. ) The tapsters, hostlers, one another call, The chamberlains with admiration all, Were filled with wonder, more than wonderful, As if some monster sent from the _Mogul_, Some elephant from _Africa_, I had been, Or some strange beast from the _Amazonian_ Queen. As buzzards, widgeons, woodcocks, and such fowl, Do gaze and wonder at the broad-faced owl, So did these brainless asses, all amazed, With admirable _Nonsense_ talked and gazed, They knew my state (although not told by me) That I could scarcely go, they all could see, They drank of my beer, that to me was given, But gave me not a drop to make all even, And that which in my mind was most amiss, My hostess she stood by and saw all this, Had she but said, come near the house my friend, For this day here shall be your journey's end. Then had she done the thing which [she] did not, And I in kinder words had paid the shot. I do entreat my friends, (as I have some) If they to _Daventry_ do chance to come, That they will baulk that inn; or if by chance, Or accident into that house they glance, Kind gentlemen, as they by you reap profit, My hostess care of me, pray tell her of it, [8] Yet do not neither; lodge there when you will, You for your money shall be welcome still. From thence that night, although my bones were sore, I made a shift to hobble seven miles more: The way to _Dunchurch_, foul with dirt and mire, Able, I think, both man and horse to tire. On _Dunsmoor_ Heath, a hedge doth there enclose Grounds, on the right hand, there I did repose. Wit's whetstone, Want, there made us quickly learn, With knives to cut down rushes, and green fern, Of which we made a field-bed in the field, Which sleep, and rest, and much content did yield. There with my mother earth, I thought it fit To lodge, and yet no incest did commit: My bed was curtained with good wholesome airs, And being weary, I went up no stairs: The sky my canopy, bright _Phoebe_ shined Sweet bawling _Zephyrus_ breathed gentle wind, In heaven's star-chamber I did lodge that night, Ten thousand stars, me to my bed did light; There barricadoed with a bank lay we Below the lofty branches of a tree, There my bed-fellows and companions were, My man, my horse, a bull, four cows, two steer: But yet for all this most confused rout, We had no bed-staves, yet we fell not out. Thus nature, like an ancient free upholster, Did furnish us with bedstead, bed, and bolster; And the kind skies, (for which high heaven be thanked, ) Allowed us a large covering and a blanket; _Auroras_ face 'gan light our lodging dark, We arose and mounted, with the mounting lark, Through plashes, puddles, thick, thin, wet and dry, I travelled to the city _Coventry_. There Master Doctor _Holland_[9] caused me stay The day of _Saturn_ and the Sabbath day. Most friendly welcome, he me did afford, I was so entertained at bed and board, Which as I dare not brag how much it was, I dare not be ingrate and let it pass, But with thanks many I remember it, (Instead of his good deeds) in words and writ, He used me like his son, more than a friend, And he on Monday his commends did send To _Newhall_, where a gentleman did dwell, Who by his name is hight _Sacheverell_. The Tuesday _July's_ one and twentieth day, I to the city _Lichfield_ took my way, At _Sutton Coldfield_ with some friends I met, And much ado I had from thence to get, There I was almost put unto my trumps, My horse's shoes were worn as thin as pumps; But noble _Vulcan_, a mad smuggy smith, All reparations me did furnish with. The shoes were well removed, my palfrey shod, And he referred the payment unto God. I found a friend, when I to _Lichfield_ came, A joiner, and _John Piddock_ is his name. He made me welcome, for he knew my jaunt, And he did furnish me with good provant: He offered me some money, I refused it, And so I took my leave, with thanks excused it, That Wednesday, I a weary way did pass, Rain, wind, stones, dirt, and dabbling dewy grass, With here and there a pelting scattered village, Which yielded me no charity, or pillage: For all the day, nor yet the night that followed. One drop of drink I'm sure my gullet swallowed. At night I came to a stony town called _Stone_. Where I knew none, nor was I known of none: I therefore through the streets held on my pace, Some two miles farther to some resting place: At last I spied a meadow newly mowed, The hay was rotten, the ground half o'erflowed: We made a breach, and entered horse and man, There our pavilion, we to pitch began, Which we erected with green broom and hay, To expel the cold, and keep the rain away; The sky all muffled in a cloud 'gan lower, And presently there fell a mighty shower, Which without intermission down did pour, From ten a night, until the morning's four. We all that time close in our couch did lie, Which being well compacted kept us dry. The worst was, we did neither sup nor sleep, And so a temperate diet we did keep. The morning all enrobed in drifting fogs, We being as ready as we had been dogs: We need not stand upon long ready making, But gaping, stretching, and our ears well shaking: And for I found my host and hostess kind, I like a true man left my sheets behind. That Thursday morn, my weary course I framed, Unto a town that is _Newcastle_ named. (Not that _Newcastle_ standing upon _Tyne_) But this town situation doth confine Near _Cheshire_, in the famous county _Stafford_, And for their love, I owe them not a straw for't; But now my versing muse craves some repose, And whilst she sleeps I'll spout a little prose. 

In this town of _Newcastle_, I overtook an hostler, and I asked him whatthe next town was called, that was in my way toward _Lancaster_, heholding the end of a riding rod in his mouth, as if it had been a flute, piped me this answer, and said, _Talk-on-the-Hill_; I asked him againwhat he said _Talk-on-the-Hill_: I demanded the third time, and thethird time he answered me as he did before, _Talk-on-the-Hill_. I beganto grow choleric, and asked him why he could not talk, or tell me my wayas well there as on the hill; at last I was resolved, that the next townwas four miles off me, and that the name of it was, _Talk-on-the-Hill_:I had not travelled above two miles farther: but my last night's supper(which was as much as nothing) my mind being informed of it by mystomach. I made a virtue of necessity, and went to breakfast in the Sun:I have fared better at three Suns many times before now, in _AldersgateStreet_, _Cripplegate_, and new _Fish Street_; but here is the odds, atthose Suns they will come upon a man with a tavern bill as sharp cuttingas a tailor's bill of items: a watchman's-bill, or a welsh-hook fallsnot half so heavy upon a man; besides, most of the vintners have the lawin their own hands, and have all their actions, cases, bills of debt, and such reckonings tried at their own bars; from whence there is noappeal. But leaving these impertinences, in the material Sunshine, weeat a substantial dinner, and like miserable guests we did budget up thereversions. 

 And now with sleep my muse hath eased her brain I'll turn my style from prose, to verse again. That which we could not have, we freely spared, And wanting drink, most soberly we fared. We had great store of fowl (but 'twas foul way) And kindly every step entreats me stay, The clammy clay sometimes my heels would trip, One foot went forward, the other back would slip, This weary day, when I had almost past, I came unto Sir _Urian Leigh's_ at last, At _Adlington_, near _Macclesfield_ he doth dwell, Beloved, respected, and reputed well. Through his great love, my stay with him was fixed, From Thursday night, till noon on Monday next, At his own table I did daily eat, Whereat may be supposed, did want no meat, He would have given me gold or silver either, But I, with many thanks, received neither, And thus much without flattery I dare swear, He is a knight beloved far and near, First he's beloved of his God above, (Which love he loves to keep, beyond all love) Next with a wife and children he is blest, Each having God's fear planted in their breast. With fair demaines, revenue of good lands, He's fairly blessed by the Almighty's hands, And as he's happy in these outward things, So from his inward mind continual springs Fruits of devotion, deeds of piety, Good hospitable works of charity, Just in his actions, constant in his word, And one that won his honour with the sword, He's no carranto, cap'ring, carpet knight, But he knows when, and how to speak or fight, I cannot flatter him, say what I can, He's every way a complete gentleman. I write not this, for what he did to me, But what mine ears, and eyes did hear and see, Nor do I pen this to enlarge his fame But to make others imitate the same, For like a trumpet were I pleased to blow, I would his worthy worth more amply show, But I already fear have been too bold, And crave his pardon, me excused to hold. Thanks to his sons and servants every one, Both males and females all, excepting none. To bear a letter he did me require, Near _Manchester_, unto a good Esquire: His kinsman _Edmund Prestwitch_, he ordained, That I was at _Manchester_ entertained Two nights, and one day, ere we thence could pass, For men and horse, roast, boiled, and oats, and grass; This gentleman not only gave harbour, But in the morning sent me to his barber, Who laved, and shaved me, still I spared my purse, Yet sure he left me many a hair the worse. But in conclusion, when his work was ended, His glass informed, my face was much amended. And for the kindness he to me did show, God grant his customers beards faster grow, That though the time of year be dear or cheap, From fruitful faces he may mow and reap. Then came a smith, with shoes, and tooth and nail, He searched my horse's hoofs, mending what did fail, Yet this I note, my nag, through stones and dirt, Did shift shoes twice, ere I did shift one shirt: Can these kind things be in oblivion hid? No, Master _Prestwitch_, this and much more did, His friendship did command and freely gave All before writ, and more than I durst crave. But leaving him a little, I must tell, How men of _Manchester_ did use me well, Their loves they on the tenter-hooks did rack, Roast, boiled, baked, too--too--much, white, claret, sack, Nothing they thought too heavy or too hot, Can followed can, and pot succeeded pot, That what they could do, all they thought too little, Striving in love the traveller to whittle. We went into the house of one _John Pinners_, (A man that lives amongst a crew of sinners) And there eight several sorts of ale we had, All able to make one stark drunk or mad. But I with courage bravely flinched not, And gave the town leave to discharge the shot. We had at one time set upon the table, Good ale of hyssop, 'twas no Ęsop-fable: Then had we ale of sage, and ale of malt, And ale of wormwood, that could make one halt, With ale of rosemary, and betony, And two ales more, or else I needs must lie. But to conclude this drinking aley-tale, We had a sort of ale, called scurvy ale. Thus all these men, at their own charge and cost, Did strive whose love should be expressed most, And farther to declare their boundless loves, They saw I wanted, and they gave me gloves, In deed, and very deed, their loves were such, That in their praise I cannot write too much; They merit more than I have here compiled, I lodged at the Eagle and the Child, Whereas my hostess, (a good ancient woman) Did entertain me with respect, not common. She caused my linen, shirts, and bands be washed, And on my way she caused me be refreshed, She gave me twelve silk points, she gave me bacon, Which by me much refused, at last was taken, In troth she proved a mother unto me, For which, I evermore will thankful be. But when to mind these kindnesses I call, Kind Master _Prestwitch_ author is of all, And yet Sir _Urian Leigh's_ good commendation, Was the main ground of this my recreation. From both of them, there what I had, I had, Or else my entertainment had been bad. O all you worthy men of _Manchester_, (True bred bloods of the County _Lancaster_) When I forget what you to me have done, Then let me headlong to confusion run. To noble Master _Prestwitch_ I must give Thanks, upon thanks, as long as I do live, His love was such, I ne'er can pay the score, He far surpassed all that went before, A horse and man he sent, with boundless bounty, To bring me quite through _Lancaster's_ large county, Which I well know is fifty miles at large, And he defrayed all the cost and charge. This unlooked pleasure, was to me such pleasure, That I can ne'er express my thanks with measure. So Mistress _Saracoal_, hostess kind, And _Manchester_ with thanks I left behind. The Wednesday being _July's_ twenty nine, My journey I to _Preston_ did confine, All the day long it rained but one shower, Which from the morning to the evening did pour, And I, before to _Preston_ I could get, Was soused, and pickled both with rain and sweat, But there I was supplied with fire and food, And anything I wanted sweet and good. There, at the Hind, kind Master _Hind_ mine host, Kept a good table, baked and boiled, and roast, There Wednesday, Thursday, Friday I did stay, And hardly got from thence on Saturday. Unto my lodging often did repair, Kind Master _Thomas Banister_, the Mayor, Who is of worship, and of good respect, And in his charge discreet and circumspect. For I protest to God I never saw, A town more wisely governed by the law. They told me when my Sovereign there was last, That one man's rashness seemed to give distaste. It grieved them all, but when at last they found, His Majesty was pleased, their joys were crowned. He knew, the fairest garden hath some weeds, He did accept their kind intents, for deeds: One man there was, that with his zeal too hot, And furious haste, himself much overshot. But what man is so foolish, that desires To get good fruit from thistles, thorns and briars? Thus much I thought good to demonstrate here, Because I saw how much they grieved were; That any way, the least part of offence, Should make them seem offensive to their Prince. Thus three nights was I staid and lodged in _Preston_, And saw nothing ridiculous to jest on, Much cost and charge the Mayor upon me spent, And on my way two miles, with me he went, There (by good chance) I did more friendship get, The under Sheriff of _Lancashire_ we met, A gentleman that loved, and knew me well, And one whose bounteous mind doth bear the bell. There, as if I had been a noted thief, The Mayor delivered me unto the Sheriff. The Sheriff's authority did much prevail, He sent me unto one that kept the jail. Thus I perambuling, poor _John Taylor_, Was given from Mayor to Sheriff, from Sheriff to Jailor. The Jailor kept an inn, good beds, good cheer, Where paying nothing, I found nothing dear, For the under-Sheriff kind Master _Covill_ named, (A man for house-keeping renowed and famed) Did cause the town of _Lancashire_ afford Me welcome, as if I had been a lord. And 'tis reported, that for daily bounty, His mate can scarce be found in all that county. The extremes of miser, or of prodigal, He shuns, and lives discreet and liberal, His wife's mind, and his own are one, so fixed, That _Argus_ eyes could see no odds betwixt, And sure the difference, (if there difference be) Is who shall do most good, or he, or she. Poor folks report, that for relieving them, He and his wife, are each of them a gem; At the inn, and at his house two nights I staid, And what was to be paid, I know he paid: If nothing of their kindness I had wrote, Ungrateful me the world might justly note: Had I declared all I did hear, and see, For a great flatterer then I deemed should be, Him and his wife, and modest daughter _Bess_, With earth, and heaven's felicity, God bless. Two days a man of his, at his command, Did guide me to the midst of _Westmoreland_, And my conductor with a liberal fist, To keep me moist, scarce any alehouse missed. The fourth of August (weary, halt, and lame) We in the dark, to a town called _Sedbergh_ came, There Master _Borrowed_, my kind honest host, Upon me did bestowed unasked cost. The next day I held on my journey still, Six miles unto a place called _Carling_ hill, Where Master _Edmund Branthwaite_[10] doth reside, Who made me welcome, with my man and guide. Our entertainment, and our fare were such, It might have satisfied our betters much; Yet all too little was, his kind heart thought, And five miles on my way himself me brought, At _Orton_ he, I, and my man did dine, With Master _Corney_ a good true Divine, And surely Master _Branthwaite_'s well beloved, His firm integrity is much approved: His good effects, do make him still affected Of God and good men, (with regard) respected. He sent his man with me, o'er dale and down, Who lodged, and boarded me at _Penrith_ town, And such good cheer, and bedding there I had, That nothing, (but my weary self) was bad; There a fresh man, (I know not for whose sake) With me a journey would to _Carlisle_ make: But from that city, about two miles wide, Good Sir _John Dalston_ lodged me and my guide. Of all the gentlemen in _England's_ bounds His house is nearest to the Scottish grounds, And fame proclaims him, far and near, aloud, He's free from being covetous, or proud; His son, Sir _George_, most affable, and kind, His father's image, both in form and mind, On Saturday to _Carlisle_ both did ride, Where (by their loves and leaves) I did abide, Where of good entertainment I found store, From one that was the mayor the year before, His name is Master _Adam Robinson_, I the last English friendship with him won. He (_gratis_) found a guide to bring me through, [Sidenote: _My thanks to Sir John and Sir Geo. Dalston, with Sir Henry Curwin. _]

 From _Carlisle_ to the city _Edinburgh_: This was a help, that was a help alone, Of all my helps inferior unto none. Eight miles from _Carlisle_ runs a little river, Which _England's_ bounds, from _Scotland's_ grounds doth sever. Without horse, bridge, or boat, I o'er did get

[Sidenote: _Over Esk Iwaded. _]

 On foot, I went, yet scarce my shoes did wet. I being come to this long-looked-for land, Did mark, remark, note, renote, viewed, and scanned; And I saw nothing that could change my will, But that I thought myself in _England_ still. The kingdoms are so nearly joined and fixed, There scarcely went a pair of shears betwixt; There I saw sky above, and earth below, And as in _England_, there the sun did show; The hills with sheep replete, with corn the dale, [Sidenote: _The afore-namedknightshad given moneyto myguide, of whichhe left somepart at everyale-house. _]

 And many a cottage yielded good Scottish ale; This county (_Avondale_) in former times, Was the cursed climate of rebellious crimes: For _Cumberland_ and it, both kingdoms borders, Were ever ordered, by their own disorders, Some sharking, shifting, cutting throats, and thieving, Each taking pleasure in the other's grieving; And many times he that had wealth to-night, Was by the morrow morning beggared quite: Too many years this pell-mell fury lasted, That all these borders were quite spoiled and wasted, Confusion, hurly-burly reigned and revelled, The churches with the lowly ground were levelled; All memorable monuments defaced, All places of defence o'erthrown and razed. That whoso then did in the borders dwell, Lived little happier than those in hell. But since the all-disposing God of heaven, Hath these two kingdoms to one monarch given, Blest peace, and plenty on them both have showered, Exile, and hanging hath the thieves devoured, That now each subject may securely sleep, His sheep and neat, the black the white doth keep, For now those crowns are both in one combined, Those former borders, that each one confine, Appears to me (as I do understand) To be almost the centre of the land, This was a blessed heaven expounded riddle, To thrust great kingdoms skirts into the middle. Long may the instrumental cause survive. From him and his, succession still derive True heirs unto his virtues, and his throne, That these two kingdoms ever may be one; This county of all _Scotland_ is most poor, By reason of the outrages before, Yet mighty store of corn I saw there grow, And as good grass as ever man did mow: And as that day I twenty miles did pass, I saw eleven hundred neat at grass, By which may be conjectured at the least, That there was sustenance for man and beast. And in the kingdom I have truly scanned, There's many worser parts, are better manned, For in the time that thieving was in ure, The gentles fled to places more secure. And left the poorer sort, to abide the pain, Whilst they could ne'er find time to turn again. The shire of gentlemen is scarce and dainty, Yet there's relief in great abundance plenty, Twixt it and England, little odds I see, They eat, and live, and strong and able be, So much in verse, and now I'll change my style, And seriously I'll write in prose awhile. 

To the purpose then: my first night's lodging in _Scotland_ was at aplace called _Moffat_, which they say, is thirty miles from _Carlisle_, but I suppose them to be longer than forty of such miles as are betwixt_London_ and Saint _Albans_, (but indeed the Scots do allow almost aslarge measure of their miles, as they do of their drink, for an Englishgallon either of ale or wine, is but their quart, and one Scottish mile(now and then, may well stand for a mile and a half or two English) buthowsoever short or long, I found that day's journey the weariest thatever I footed; and at night, being come to the town, I found goodordinary country entertainment: my fare and my lodging was sweet andgood, and might have served a far better man than myself, althoughmyself have had many times better: but this is to be noted, that thoughit rained not all the day, yet it was my fortune to be well wet twice, for I waded over a great river called _Esk_ in the morning, somewhatmore than four miles distance from _Carlisle_ in _England_, and at nightwithin two miles of my lodging, I was fain to wade over the river of_Annan_ in _Scotland_, from which river the county of _Annandale_, hathits name. And whilst I waded on foot, my man was mounted on horseback, like the _George_ without the Dragon. But the next morning, I arose andleft _Moffat_ behind me, and that day I travelled twenty-one miles to asorry village called _Blythe_, but I was blithe myself to come to anyplace of harbour or succour, for since I was born, I never was so weary, or so near being dead with extreme travel: I was foundered andrefoundered of all four, and for my better comfort, I came so late, thatI must lodge without doors all night, or else in a poor house where thegood wife lay in child-bed, her husband being from home, her own servantmaid being her nurse. A creature naturally compacted, and artificiallyadorned with an incomparable homeliness: but as things were I musteither take or leave, and necessity made me enter, where we got eggs andale by measure and by tail. At last to bed I went, my man lying on thefloor by me, where in the night there were pigeons did very bountifullymute in his face: the day being no sooner come, and having but fifteenmiles to _Edinburgh_, mounted upon my ten toes, and began first tohobble, and after to amble, and so being warm, I fell to pace bydegrees; all the way passing through a fertile country for corn andcattle: and about two of the clock in the afternoon that Wednesday, being the thirteenth of August, and the day of _Clare_ the Virgin (thesign being in _Virgo_) the moon four days old, the wind at west, I cameto take rest, at the wished, long expected, ancient famous city of_Edinburgh_, which I entered like Pierce Penniless, oeee11] altogethermoneyless, but I thank God, not friendless; for being there, for thetime of my stay, I might borrow, (if any man would lend) spend if Icould get, beg if I had the impudence, and steal, if I durst adventurethe price of a hanging, but my purpose was to house my horse, and tosuffer him and my apparel to lie in durance, or lavender instead oflitter, till such time as I could meet with some valiant friend, thatwould desperately disburse. 

Walking thus down the street, (my body being tired with travel, and mymind attired with moody, muddy, Moor-ditch melancholy) my contemplationdid devotely pray, that I might meet one or other to prey upon, beingwilling to take any slender acquaintance of any map whatsoever, viewing, and circumviewing every man's face I met, as if I meant to draw hispicture, but all my acquaintance was _Non est inventus_, (pardon me, reader, that Latin is none of my own, I swear by _Priscian'sPericranium_, an oath which I have ignorantly broken many times. ) Atlast I resolved, that the next gentleman that I meet withal, should beacquaintance whether he would or no: and presently fixing mine eyes upona gentleman-like object, I looked on him, as if I would survey somethingthrough him, and make him my perspective: and he much musing at mygazing, and I much gazing at his musing, at last he crossed the way andmade toward me, and then I made down the street from him, leaving toencounter with any man, who came after me leading my horse, whom he thusaccosted. My friend (quoth he) doth yonder gentleman, (meaning me) knowme, that he looks so wistly on me? Truly sir, said my man, I think not, but my master is a stranger come from _London_, and would gladly meetsome acquaintance to direct him where he may have lodging andhorse-meat. Presently the gentleman, (being of a generous disposition)overtook me with unexpected and undeserved courtesy, brought me to alodging, and caused my horse to be put into his own stable, whilst wediscoursing over a pint of Spanish, I relate as much English to him, asmade him lend me ten shillings, (his name was Master _John Maxwell_)which money I am sure was the first that I handled after I came from outthe walls of _London_: but having rested two hours and refreshed myself, the gentleman and I walked to see the City and the Castle, which as mypoor unable and unworthy pen can, I will truly describe. 

The Castle on a lofty rock is so strongly grounded, bounded, andfounded, that by force of man it can never be confounded; the foundationand walls are unpenetrable, the rampiers impregnable, the bulwarksinvincible, no way but one it is or can be possible to be made passable. In a word, I have seen many straits and fortresses, in _Germany_, the_Netherlands_, _Spain_ and _England_, but they must all give place tothis unconquered Castle, both for strength and situation. 

Amongst the many memorable things which I was shewed there, I notedespecially a great piece of ordnance of iron, it is not for battery, butit will serve to defend a breach, or to toss balls of wild-fire againstany that should assail or assault the Castle; it lies nowdismounted. [12] And it is so great within, that it was told me that achild was once gotten there: but I, to make trial crept into it, lyingon my back, and I am sure there was room enough and spare for a greaterthan myself. 

So leaving the Castle, as it is both defensive against my opposition, and magnific for lodging and receite, [13] I descended lower to the City, wherein I observed the fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyesbeheld, for I did never see or hear of a street of that length, (whichis half an English mile from the Castle to a fair port which they callthe _Nether-Bow_) and from that port, the street which they call the_Kenny-gate_ is one quarter of a mile more, down to the King's Palace, called _Holy-rood-House_, the buildings on each side of the way beingall of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high, and manybye-lanes and closes on each side of the way, wherein are gentlemen'shouses, much fairer than the buildings in the High Street, for in theHigh Street the merchants and tradesmen do dwell, but the gentlemen'smansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaidlanes: the walls are eight or ten foot thick, exceeding strong, notbuilt for a day, a week, or a month, or a year; but from antiquity toposterity, for many ages; there I found entertainment beyond myexpectation or merit, and there is fish, flesh, bread and fruit, in suchvariety, that I think I may offenceless call it superfluity, or satiety. The worst was, that wine and ale was so scarce, and the people theresuch misers of it, that every night before I went to bed, if any man hadasked me a civil question, all the wit in my head could not have madehim a sober answer. 

I was at his Majesty's Palace, a stately and princely seat, wherein Isaw a sumptuous chapel, most richly adorned with all appurtenancesbelonging to so sacred a place, or so royal an owner. In the innercourt I saw the King's arms cunningly carved in stone, and fixed over adoor aloft on the wall, the red lion being in the crest, over which waswritten this inscription in Latin, _Nobis hęc invicta miserunt, 106 proavi. _

I enquired what the English of it was? it was toldme as followeth, which I thought worthy to berecorded. 

 _106, forefathers have left this to us unconquered. _

This is a worthy and memorable motto, and I think few kingdoms or nonein the world can truly write the like, that notwithstanding so manyinroads, incursions, attempts, assaults, civil wars, and foreignhostilities, bloody battles, and mighty foughten fields, that maugre thestrength and policy of enemies, that royal crown and sceptre hath fromone hundred and seven descents, kept still unconquered, and by the powerof the King of Kings (through the grace of the Prince of Peace) is nowleft peacefully to our peaceful king, whom long in blessed peace, theGod of peace defend and govern. 

But once more, a word or two of _Edinburgh_, although I have scarcelygiven it that due which belongs unto it, for their lofty and statelybuildings, and for their fair and spacious street, yet my mind persuadesme that they in former ages that first founded that city did not so wellin that they built it in so discommodious a place; for the sea, and allnavigable rivers being the chief means for the enriching of towns andcities, by the reason of traffic with foreign nations, with exportation, transportation, and receite of variety of merchandizing; so this cityhad it been built but one mile lower on the seaside, I doubt not but ithad long before this been comparable to many a one of our greatest townsand cities in _Europe_, both for spaciousness of bounds, port, state, and riches. It is said, that King _James_ the fifth (of famous memory)did graciously offer to purchase for them, and to bestow upon themfreely, certain low and pleasant grounds a mile from them on theseashore, with these conditions, that they should pull down their city, and build it in that more commodious place, but the citizens refused it;and so now it is like (for me), to stand where it doth, for I doubt suchanother proffer of removal will not be presented to them, till two daysafter the fair. 

Now have with you for _Leith_, whereto I no sooner came, but I was wellentertained by Master _Barnard Lindsay_, one of the grooms of hisMajesties bed-chamber, he knew my estate was not guilty, because Ibrought guilt with me (more than my sins, and they would not pass forcurrent there) he therefore did replenish the vaustity[14] of my emptypurse, and discharged a piece at me with two bullets of gold, eachbeing in value worth eleven shillings white money; and I was creditablyinformed, that within the compass of one year, there was shipped awayfrom that only port of _Leith_, fourscore thousand boles of wheat, oats, and barley into _Spain_, _France_, and other foreign parts, and everybole contains the measure of four English bushels, so that from _Leith_only hath been transported three hundred and twenty thousand bushels ofcorn; besides some hath been shipped away from Saint _Andrews_, from_Dundee_, _Aberdeen_, _Dysart_, _Kirkaldy_, _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, _Dunbar_, and other portable towns, which makes me to wonder that akingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless sell so muchbread-corn beyond the seas, and yet to have more than sufficient forthemselves. 

So I having viewed the haven and town of _Leith_, took a passage boat tosee the new wondrous Well, [15] to which many a one that is not well, comes far and near in hope to be made well: indeed I did hear that ithad done much good, and that it hath a rare operation to expel or killdivers maladies; as to provoke appetite, to help much for the avoidingof the gravel in the bladder, to cure sore eyes, and old ulcers, withmany other virtues which it hath, but I (through the mercy of God, having no need of it, did make no great inquisition what it had done, but for novelty I drank of it, and I found the taste to be more pleasantthan any other water, sweet almost as milk, yet as clear as crystal, andI did observe that though a man did drink a quart, a pottle, or as muchas his belly could contain, yet it never offended or lay heavy upon thestomach, no more than if one had drank but a pint or a small quantity. 

I went two miles from it to a town called _Burntisland_, where I foundmany of my especial good friends, as Master _Robert Hay_, one of theGrooms of his Majesty's Bed-chamber, Master _David Drummond_, one of hisGentlemens-Pensioners, Master _James Acmootye_, one of the Grooms of thePrivy Chamber, Captain _Murray_, Sir _Henry Witherington_ Knight, Captain _Tyrie_, and divers others: and there Master _Hay_, Master_Drummond_, and the good old Captain _Murray_ did very bountifullyfurnish me with gold for my expenses, but I being at dinner with thoseaforesaid gentlemen, as we were discoursing, there befel a strangeaccident, which I think worth the relating. 

I know not upon what occasion they began to talk of being at sea informer times, and I (amongst the rest) said, I was at the taking of_Cadiz_; whereto an English gentleman replied, that he was the next goodvoyage after at the Islands: I answered him that I was there also. Hedemanded in what ship I was? I told him in the Rainbow of the Queens:why (quoth he) do you not know me? I was in the same ship, and my nameis _Witherington_. 

Sir, said I, I do remember the name well, but by reason that it is neartwo and twenty years since I saw you, I may well forget the knowledge ofyou. Well said he, if you were in that ship, I pray you tell me someremarkable token that happened in the voyage, whereupon I told him twoor three tokens; which he did know to be true. Nay then, said I, I willtell you another which (perhaps) you have not forgotton; as ourship and the rest of the fleet did ride at anchor at the Isle of_Flores_ (one of the Isles of the _Azores_) there were some fourteen menand boys of our ship, that for novelty would go ashore, and see whatfruit the island did bear, and what entertainment it would yield us; sobeing landed, we went up and down and could find nothing but stones, heath and moss, and we expected oranges, lemons, figs, musk-mellions, and potatoes; in the mean space the wind did blow so stiff, and the seawas so extreme rough, that our ship-boat could not come to the land tofetch us, for fear she should be beaten in pieces against the rocks;this continued five days, so that we were almost famished for want offood: but at last (I squandering up and down) by the providence of GodI happened into a cave or poor habitation, where I found fifteen loavesof bread, each of the quantity of a penny loaf in _England_, I having avaliant stomach of the age of almost of a hundred and twenty hoursbreeding, fell to, and ate two loaves and never said grace: and as I wasabout to make a horse-loaf of the third loaf, I did put twelve of theminto my breeches, and my sleeves, and so went mumbling out of the cave, leaning my back against a tree, when upon the sudden a gentleman came tome, and said, "Friend, what are you eating?" "Bread, " (quoth I, ) "ForGod's sake, " said he, "give me some. " With that, I put my hand into mybreech, (being my best pantry) and I gave him a loaf, which he receivedwith many thanks, and said, that if ever he could requit it, he would. 

I had no sooner told this tale, but Sir _Henry Witherington_ didacknowledge himself to be the man that I had given the loaf unto two andtwenty years before, where I found the proverb true, that men have moreprivilege than mountains in meeting. 

In what great measure he did requite so small a courtesy, I will relatein this following discourse in my return through _Northumberland_: soleaving my man at the town of _Burntisland_, I told him, I would but goto _Stirling_, and see the Castle there, and withal to see my honourablefriends the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ Knight, Lord of_Abercairney_, and that I would return within two days at the most: butit fell out quite contrary; for it was and five and thirty days before Icould get back again out of these noble men's company. The wholeprogress of my travel with them, and the cause of my stay I cannot withgratefulness omit; and thus it was. 

A worthy gentleman named Master _John Fenton_, did bring me on my waysix miles to _Dunfermline_, where I was well entertained, and lodged atMaster _John Gibb_ his house, one of the Grooms of his Majesty'sBed-chamber, and I think the oldest servant the King hath: withal, I waswell entertained there by Master _Crighton_ at his own house, who wentwith me, and shewed me the Queens Palace; (a delicate and PrincelyMansion) withal I saw the ruins of an ancient and stately built Abbey, with fair gardens, orchards, meadows belonging to the Palace: all whichwith fair and goodly revenues by the suppression of the Abbey, wereannexed to the crown. There also I saw a very fair church, which thoughit be now very large and spacious, yet it hath in former times been muchlarger. But I taking my leave of _Dunfermline_, would needs go and seethe truly noble Knight Sir _George Bruce_, at a town called the_Culross_: there he made me right welcome, both with variety of fare, and after all, he commanded three of his men to direct me to see hismost admirable coal mines; which (if man can or could work wonders) is awonder; for myself neither in any travels that I have been in, nor anyhistory that I have read, or any discourse that I have heard, did neversee, read, or hear of any work of man that might parallel or beequivalent with this unfellowed and unmatchable work: and though all Ican say of it, cannot describe it according to the worthiness of hisvigilant industry, that was both the occasion, inventor, and maintainerof it: yet rather than the memory of so rare an enterprise, and soaccomplished a profit to the common-wealth shall be raked and smotheredin the dust of oblivion, I will give a little touch at the descriptionof it, although I amongst writers, am like he that worse may hold thecandle. 

The mine hath two ways into it, the one by sea and the other by land;but a man may go into it by land, and return the same way if he please, and so he may enter into it by sea, and by sea he may come forth of it:but I for variety's sake went in by sea, and out by land. Now men mayobject, how can a man go into a mine, the entrance of it being into thesea, but that the sea will follow him, and so drown the mine? To whichobjection thus I answer, that at low water mark, the sea being ebbedaway, and a great part of the sand bare; upon this same sand (beingmixed with rocks and crags) did the master of this great work build around circular frame of stone, very thick, strong, and joined togetherwith glutinous or bituminous matter, so high withal that the sea at thehighest flood, or the greatest rage of storm or tempest, can neitherdissolve the stones so well compacted in the building or yet overflowthe height of it. Within this round frame, (at all adventures) he didset workmen to dig with mattocks, pickaxes, and other instruments fitfor such purposes. They did dig forty feet down right into and through arock. At last they found that which they expected, which was sea coal, they following the vein of the mine, did dig forward still: so that inthe space of eight and twenty, or nine and twenty years, they havedigged more than an English mile under the sea, so that when men are atwork below, an hundred of the greatest ships in _Britain_ man sail overtheir heads. Besides, the mine is most artificially cut like an arch ora vault, all that great length, with many nooks and bye-ways: and it isso made, that a man may walk upright in the most places, both in andout. Many poor people are there set on work, which otherwise through thewant of employment would perish. But when I had seen the mine, and wascome forth of it again; after my thanks given to Sir _George Bruce_, Itold him, that if the plotters of the Powder Treason in England hadseen this mine, that they (perhaps) would have attempted to have leftthe Parliament House, and have undermined the Thames, and so to haveblown up the barges and wherries, wherein the King, and all the estatesof our kingdom were. Moreover, I said, that I could afford to turntapster at _London_, so that I had but one quarter of a mile of his mine to make me a cellar, to keep beer and bottled ale in. But leaving these jests in prose, I will relate a few verses that I made merrily of this mine. 

 I that have wasted, months, weeks, days, and hours In viewing kingdoms, countries, towns, and towers, Without all measure, measuring many paces, And with my pen describing many places, With few additions of mine own devising, (Because I have a smack of _Coryatizing_[16]) Our _Mandeville_, _Primaleon_, _Don Quixote_, Great _Amadis_, or _Huon_, travelled not As I have done, or been where I have been, Or heard and seen, what I have heard and seen; Nor Britain's _Odcombe_ (_Zany_ brave _Ulysses_) In all his ambling, saw the like as this is. I was in (would I could describe it well) A dark, light, pleasant, profitable hell, And as by water I was wafted in, I thought that I in _Charon's_ boat had been, But being at the entrance landed thus, Three men there (instead of _Cerberus_) Convey'd me in, in each one hand a light To guide us in that vault of endless night, There young and old with glim'ring candles burning Dig, delve, and labour, turning and returning, Some in a hole with baskets and with bags, Resembling furies, or infernal hags: There one like _Tantalus_ feeding, and there one, Like _Sisyphus_ he rolls the restless stone. Yet all I saw was pleasure mixed with profit, Which proved it to be no tormenting Tophet[17] For in this honest, worthy, harmless hell, There ne'er did any damned Devil dwell; And th' owner of it gains by 't more true glory, Than _Rome_ doth by fantastic Purgatory. A long mile thus I passed, down, down, steep, steep, In deepness far more deep, than _Neptunes_ deep, Whilst o'er my head (in fourfold stories high) Was earth, and sea, and air, and sun, and sky: That had I died in that _Cimmerian_[18] room, Four elements had covered o'er my tomb: Thus farther than the bottom did I go, (And many Englishmen have not done so;) Where mounting porpoises, and mountain whales, And regiments of fish with fins and scales, 'Twixt me and heaven did freely glide and slide, And where great ships may at an anchor ride: Thus in by sea, and out by land I past, And took my leave of good Sir _George_ at last. 

The sea at certain places doth leak, or soak into the mine, which by theindustry of Sir _George Bruce_, is all conveyed to one well near theland; where he hath a device like a horse-mill, that with three horsesand a great chain of iron, going downward many fathoms, with thirty-sixbuckets fastened to the chain, of the which eighteen go down still tobe filled, and eighteen ascend up to be emptied, which do emptythemselves (without any man's labour) into a trough that conveys thewater into the sea again; by which means he saves his mine, whichotherwise would be destroyed with the sea, besides he doth make everyweek ninety or a hundred tons of salt, which doth serve most part of_Scotland_, some he sends into _England_, and very much into _Germany_:all which shows the painful industry with God's blessings to such worthyendeavours: I must with many thanks remember his courtesy to me, andlastly how he sent his man to guide me ten miles on the way to_Stirling_, where by the way I saw the outside of a fair and statelyhouse called _Allaway_, belonging to the Earl of _Mar_ which by reasonthat his honour was not there, I past by and went to _Stirling_, where Iwas entertained and lodged at one Master John _Archibalds_, where all mywant was that I wanted room to contain half the good cheer that I mighthave had there! he had me into the castle, which in few words I docompare to _Windsor_ for situation, much more than _Windsor_ instrength, and somewhat less in greatness: yet I dare affirm that hisMajesty hath not such another hall to any house that he hath neither in_England_ or _Scotland_, except Westminster Hall which is now nodwelling hall for a prince, being long since metamorphosed into a housefor the law and the profits. 

This goodly hall was built by King _James_ the fourth, that married King_Henry_ the Eight's sister, and after was slain at _Flodden field_; butit surpasses all the halls for dwelling houses that ever I saw, forlength, breadth, height and strength of building, the castle is builtupon a rock very lofty, and much beyond _Edinburgh_ Castle in state andmagnificence, and not much inferior to it in strength, the rooms of itare lofty, with carved works on the ceilings, the doors of each roombeing so high, that a man may ride upright on horseback into any chamberor lodging. There is also a goodly fair chapel, with cellars, stables, and all other necessary offices, all very stately and befitting themajesty of a king. 

From _Stirling_ I rode to Saint _Johnstone_, [19] a fine town it is, butit is much decayed, by reason of the want of his Majesty's yearly comingto lodge there. There I lodged one night at an inn, the goodman of thehouse his name being _Patrick Pitcairne_, where my entertainment waswith good cheer, good lodging, all too good to a bad weary guest. Minehost told me that the Earl of _Mar_, and Sir _William Murray_ of_Abercairney_ were gone to the great hunting to the _Brae_ of _Mar_[20];but if I made haste I might perhaps find them at a town called_Brekin_, or _Brechin_, two and thirty miles from Saint _Johnstone_whereupon I took a guide to _Brechin_ the next day, but before I came, my lord was gone from thence four days. 

Then I took another guide, which brought me such strange ways overmountains and rocks, that I think my horse never went the like; and I amsure I never saw any ways that might fellow them I did go through acountry called _Glen Esk_, where passing by the side of a hill, so steepas the ridge of a house, where the way was rocky, and not above a yardbroad in some places, so fearful and horrid it was to look down into thebottom, for if either horse or man had slipped, he had fallen withoutrecovery a good mile downright; but I thank God, atnight I came to a lodging in the Laird of _Edzell's_ land, where I layat an Irish house, the folks not being able to speak scarce any English, but I supped and went to bed, where I had not laid long, but I wasenforced to rise, I was so stung with Irish musquitoes, acreature that hath six legs, and lives like a monster altogether uponman's flesh, they do inhabit and breed most in sluttish houses, and thishouse was none of the cleanest, the beast is much like a louse in_England_, both in shape and nature; in a word, they were to me the _A. _and the _Z. _ the prologue and the epilogue, the first and the last thatI had in all my travels from _Edinburgh_; and had not this HighlandIrish house helped me at a pinch, I should have sworn that all_Scotland_ had not been so kind as to have bestowed a louse upon me: butwith a shift that I had, I shifted off my cannibals, and was never moretroubled with them. 

The next day I travelled over an exceeding high mountain, called mount_Skene_, where I found the valley very warm before I went up it; butwhen I came to the top of it, my teeth began to dance in my head withcold, like Virginal's jacks;[21] and withal, a most familiar mistembraced me round, that I could not see thrice my length any way:withal, it yielded so friendly a dew, that did moisten through all myclothes: where the old Proverb of a Scottish mist was verified, inwetting me to the skin. Up and down, I think this hill is six miles, theway so uneven, stony, and full of bogs, quagmires, and long heath, thata dog with three legs will out-run a horse with four; for do what wecould, we were four hours before we could pass it. 

Thus with extreme travel, ascending and descending, mounting andalighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brae of_Mar_, which is a large county, all composed of such mountains, thatShooter's Hill, Gad's Hill, Highgate Hill, Hampstead Hill, BirdlipHill, or Malvern's Hills, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like aliver, or a gizard under a capon's wing, in respect of the altitude oftheir tops, or perpendicularity of their bottoms. There I saw Mount _BenAven_, with a furred mist upon his snowy head instead of a night-cap:(for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but thesnow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well asin winter. ) There did I find the truly Noble and Right Honourable Lords_John Erskine_ Earl of Mar, _James Stuart_ Earl of Murray, _GeorgeGordon_ Earl of Enzie, son and heir to the Marquess of Huntly, _JamesErskine_ Earl of Buchan, and _John_ Lord _Erskine_, son and heir to theEarl of Mar, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my bestassured and approved friend, Sir _William Murray_ Knight, of_Abercairney_, and hundred of others Knights, Esquires, and theirfollowers; all and every man in general in one habit, as if _Lycurgus_had been there, and made laws of equality: for once in the year, whichis the whole month of August, and sometimes part of September, many ofthe nobility and gentry of the kingdom (for their pleasure) do come intothese Highland Countries to hunt, where they do conform themselves tothe habit of the Highland men, who for the most part speak nothing butIrish; and in former time were those people which were called the_Red-shanks_. [22] Their habit is shoes with but one sole apiece;stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuff of diverscolours, which they call tartan: as for breeches, many of them, northeir forefathers never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuff thattheir hose is of, their garters being bands or wreaths of hay or straw, with a plaid about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, of much finer and lighter stuff than their hose, with blue flat caps ontheir heads, a handkerchief knit with two knots about their neck; andthus are they attired. Now their weapons are long bows and forkedarrows, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, dirks, and Lochaberaxes. With these arms I found many of them armed for the hunting. As fortheir attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them, must not disdain to wear it; for if they do, then they will disdain tohunt, or willingly, to bring in their dogs: but if men be kind untothem, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindness, andthe sport will be plentiful. This was the reason that I found so manynoblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting. 

My good Lord of _Mar_ having put me into that shape, [23] I rode with himfrom his house, where I saw the ruins of an old castle, called thecastle of _Kindroghit_ [Castletown]. It was built by King _MalcolmCanmore_ (for a hunting house) who reigned in _Scotland_ when _Edward_the Confessor, _Harold_, and Norman _William_ reigned in _England_: Ispeak of it, because it was the last house that I saw in those parts;for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corn field, or habitation for any creature, but deer, wild horses, wolves, and such like creatures, which made me doubt that I should neverhave seen a house again. [24]

Thus the first day we travelled eight miles, where there small cottagesbuilt on purpose to lodge in, which they call Lonchards, I thank my goodLord _Erskine_, he commanded that I should always be lodged in hislodging, the kitchen being always on the side of a bank, many kettlesand pots boiling, and many spits turning and winding, with great varietyof cheer: as venison baked, sodden, roast, and stewed beef, mutton, goats, kid, hares, fresh salmon, pigeons, hens, capons, chickens, partridge, moor-coots, heath-cocks, capercailzies, and termagants[ptarmigans]; good ale, sack, white, and claret, tent, (or Alicante)with most potent _Aquavitę_. 

All these, and more than these we had continually, in superfluousabundance, caught by Falconers, Fowlers, Fishers, and brought by myLord's tenants and purveyors to victual our camp, which consisted offourteen or fifteen hundred men and horses; the manner of the hunting isthis: five or six hundred men do rise early in the morning, and they dodisperse themselves divers ways, and seven, eight, or ten miles compass, they do bring or chase in the deer in many herds, (two, three, or fourhundred in a herd) to such or such a place, as the Nobleman shallappoint them; then when day is come, the Lords and gentlemen of theircompanies, do ride or go to the said places, sometimes wading up totheir middles through bournes and rivers: and then: they being come tothe place, do lie down on the ground, till those foresaid scouts whichare called the Tinchel, do bring down the deer: but as the proverb saysof a bad cook, so these Tinchel-men do lick their own fingers; forbesides their bows and arrows, which they carry with them, we can hearnow and then a harquebuss or a musket go off, which they do seldomdischarge in vain: Then after we had stayed there three hours orthereabouts, we might perceive the deer appear on the hills round aboutus, (their heads making a show like a wood) which being followed closeby the Tinchel, are chased down into the valley where we lay; then allthe valley on each side being waylaid with a hundred couple of strongIrish greyhounds, they are let loose as the occasion serves upon theherd of deer, so that with dogs, guns, arrows, dirks, and daggers, inthe space of two hours, fourscore fat deer were slain, which after aredisposed of some one way, and some another, twenty and thirty miles, andmore than enough left for us to make merry withal at our rendezvous. Iliked the sport so well, that I made these two sonnets following. 

 Why should I waste invention to indite, _Ovidian_ fictions, or Olympian games? My misty Muse enlightened with more light, To a more noble pitch her aim she frames. I must relate to my great Master JAMES, The Caledonian annual peaceful war; How noble minds do eternize their fames, By martial meeting in the Brae of _Mar_: How thousand gallant spirits came near and far, With swords and targets, arrows, bows, and guns, That all the troop to men of judgment, are The God of Wars great never conquered sons, The sport is manly, yet none bleed but beasts, And last the victor on the vanquished feasts. If sport like this can on the mountains be, Where _Phoebus_ flames can never melt the snow; Then let who list delight in vales below, Sky-kissing mountains pleasure are for me: What braver object can man's eyesight see, Than noble, worshipful, and worthy wights, As if they were prepared for sundry fights, Yet all in sweet society agree? Through heather, moss, 'mongst frogs, and bogs, and fogs, 'Mongst craggy cliffs, and thunder-battered hills, Hares, hinds, bucks, roes, are chased by men and dogs, Where two hours hunting fourscore fat deer kills. Lowland, your sports are low as is your seat, The Highland games and minds, are high and great. 

Being come to our lodgings, there was such baking, boiling, roasting, and stewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been there to have scalded the devilin his feathers: and after supper a fire of fir-wood as high as anindifferent May-pole: for I assure you, that the Earl of _Mar_ will giveany man that is his friend, for thanks, as many fir trees (that are asgood as any ship's masts in England) as are worth if they were in anyplace near the Thames, or any other portable river) the best earldom inEngland or Scotland either: For I dare affirm, he hath as many growingthere, as would serve for masts (from this time to the end of the world)for all the ships, caracks, hoys, galleys, boats, drumlers, barks, andwater-crafts, that are now, or can be in the world these forty years. 

This sounds like a lie to an unbeliever; but I and many thousands doknow that I speak within the compass of truth: for indeed (the more isthe pity) they do grow so far from any passage of water, and withal insuch rocky mountains, that no way to convey them is possible to bepassable, either with boat, horse, or cart. 

Thus having spent certain days in hunting in the Brae of _Mar_, we wentto the next county called _Badenoch_, belonging to the Earl of _Enzie_, where having such sport and entertainment as we formerly had; after fouror five days pastime, we took leave of hunting for that year; and tookour journey toward a strong house of the Earl's, called _Ruthven_ in_Badenoch_, where my Lord of _Enzie_ and his noble Countess (beingdaughter to the Earl of _Argyle_) did give us most noble welcome threedays. 

From thence we went to a place called _Balloch Castle_, [25] a fair andstately house, a worthy gentleman being the owner of it, called theLaird of _Grant_; his wife being a gentlewoman honourably descendedbeing sister to the right Honourable Earl of _Athol_, and to Sir_Patrick Murray_ Knight; she being both inwardly and outwardlyplentifully adorned with the gifts of grace and nature: so that ourcheer was more than sufficient; and yet much less than they could affordus. There stayed there four days, four Earls, one Lord, divers Knightsand Gentlemen, and their servants, footmen and horses; and every mealfour long tables furnished with all varieties: our first and secondcourse being three score dishes at one board; and after that always abanquet: and there if I had not forsworn wine till I came to _Edinburgh_I think I had there drunk my last. 

The fifth day with much ado we gate from thence to _Tarnaway_, a goodlyhouse of the Earl of _Murrays_, [26] where that Right Honourable Lord andhis Lady did welcome us four days more. There was good cheer in allvariety, with somewhat more than plenty for advantage: for indeed theCounty of _Murray_ is the most pleasantest and plentiful country in all_Scotland_; being plain land, that a coach may be driven more than fourand thirty miles one way in it, alongst by the sea-coast. 

From thence I went to _Elgin_ in _Murray_, [27] an ancient City, wherethere stood a fair and beautiful church with three steeples, the wallsof it and the steeples all yet standing; but the roofs, windows, andmany marble monuments and tombs of honourable and worthy personages allbroken and defaced: this was done in the time when ruin bare rule, andKnox knocked down churches. 

From _Elgin_ we went to the Bishop of _Murray_ his house which is called_Spiny_, or _Spinay_: a Reverend Gentleman he is, of the noble name of_Douglas_, where we were very well welcomed, as befitted the honour ofhimself and his guests. 

From thence we departed to the Lord Marquess of _Huntlys_ to a sumptuoushouse of his, named the _Bog of Geethe_, where our entertainment waslike himself, free, bountiful and honourable. There (after two daysstay) with much entreaty and earnest suit, I gate leave of the Lords todepart towards _Edinburgh_: the Noble Marquess, the Earl of _Mar_, _Murray_, _Enzie_, _Buchan_, and the Lord _Erskine_; all these, I thankthem, gave me gold to defray my charges in my journey. 

So after five and thirty days hunting and travel I returning, past byanother stately mansion of the Lord Marquesses, called _Stroboggy_, andso over _Carny_ mount to _Brechin_, where a wench that was born deaf anddumb came into my chamber at midnight (I being asleep) and she openingthe bed, would feign have lodged with me: but had I been a_Sardanapalus_, or a _Heliogabulus_, I think that either the greattravel over the mountains had tamed me; or if not, her beauty couldnever have moved me. The best parts of her were, that her breath was assweet as sugar-candian, [28] being very well shouldered beneath thewaste; and as my hostess told me the next morning, that she had changedher maiden-head for the price of a bastard not long before. Buthowsoever, she made such a hideous noise, that I started out of mysleep, and thought that the Devil had been there: but I no sooner knewwho it was, but I arose, and thrust my dumb beast out of my chamber; andfor want of a lock or a latch, I staked up my door with a great chair. 

Thus having escaped one of the seven deadly sins as at _Brechin_, Ideparted from thence to a town called _Forfor_; and from thence to_Dundee_, and so to _Kinghorn_, _Burntisland_, and so to _Edinburgh_, where I stayed eight days, to recover myself of falls and bruises, whichI received in my travel in the Highland mountainous hunting. Greatwelcome I had showed me all my stay at _Edinburgh_, by many worthygentlemen, namely, old Master _George Todrigg_, Master _HenryLivingston_, Master _James Henderson_, Master _John Maxwell_, and anumber of others, who suffered me to want no wine or good cheer, as maybe imagined. 

Now the day before I came from _Edinburgh_, I went to _Leith_, where Ifound my long approved and assured good friend Master _Benjamin Jonson_, at one Master _John Stuarts_ house; I thank him for his great kindnesstowards me: for at my taking leave of him, he gave me a piece of gold oftwo and twenty shillings[29] to drink his health in _England_. Andwithal, willed me to remember his kind commendations to all his friends:So with a friendly farewell, I left him as well, as I hope never to seehim in a worse estate: for he is amongst noblemen and gentlemen thatknow his true worth, and their own honours, where, with much respectivelove he is worthily entertained. 

So leaving _Leith_ I returned to _Edinburgh_, and within the port orgate, called the _Nether-Bow_, I discharged my pockets of all the moneyI had: and as I came pennyless within the walls of that city at my firstcoming thither; so now at my departing from thence, I came moneyless outof it again; having in company to convey me out, certain gentlemen, amongst the which Master _James Acherson_, Laird of _Gasford_, agentleman that brought me to his house, where with great entertainmenthe and his good wife did welcome me. 

On the morrow he sent one of his men to bring me to a place called_Adam_, to Master _John Acmootye_ his house, one of the Grooms of hisMajesty's Bed-chamber; where with him and his two brethren, Master_Alexander_, and Master _James Acmootye_, I found both cheer andwelcome, not inferior to any that I had had in any former place. 

Amongst our viands that we had there, I must not forget the Sole andGoose (_sic_), a most delicate fowl, which breeds in great abundance ina little rock called the _Bass_, which stands two miles into the sea. Itis very good flesh, but it is eaten in the form as we eat oysters, standing at a side-board, a little before dinner, unsanctified withoutgrace; and after it is eaten, it must be well liquored with two or threegood rouses[30] of sherry or canary sack. The Lord or owner of the_Bass_ doth profit at the least two hundred pound yearly by those geese;the _Bass_ itself being of a great height, and near three quarters of amile in compass, all fully replenished with wild fowl, having but onesmall entrance into it, with a house, a garden, and a chapel in it; andon the top of it a well of pure fresh water. 

From _Adam_, Master _John_ and Master _James Acmootye_ went to the townof _Dunbar_ with me, where ten Scottish pints of wine were consumed, and brought to nothing for a farewell: there at Master _James Baylies_house I took leave, and Master _James Acmootye_ coming for _England_, said, that if I would ride with, that neither I nor my horse should wantbetwixt that place and _London_. Now I having no money nor means fortravel, began at once to examine my manners and my want: at last my wantpersuaded my manners to accept of this worthy gentleman's undeservedcourtesy. So that night he brought me to a place called _Cockburnspath_, where we lodged at an inn, the like of which I dare say, is not in anyof his Majesty's Dominions. And for to show my thankfulness to Master_William Arnot_ and his wife, the owners thereof, I must explain theirbountiful entertainment of guests, which is this:

Suppose ten, fifteen, or twenty men and horses come to lodge at theirhouse, the men shall have flesh, tame and wild fowl, fish with allvariety of good cheer, good lodging, and welcome; and the horses shallwant neither hay or provender: and at the morning at their departure thereckoning is just nothing. This is this worthy gentlemen's use, hischief delight being only to give strangers entertainment _gratis_: and Iam sure, that in _Scotland_ beyond _Edinburgh_, I have been at houseslike castles for building; the master of the house his beaver being hisblue bonnet, one that will wear no other shirts, but of the flax thatgrows on his own ground, and of his wife's, daughters', or servants'spinning; that hath his stockings, hose, and jerkin of the wool of hisown sheep's backs; that never (by his pride of apparel) caused mercer, draper, silk-man, embroiderer, or haberdasher to break and turnbankrupt: and yet this plain home-spun fellow keeps and maintainsthirty, forty, fifty servants, or perhaps, more, every day relievingthree or fourscore poor people at his gate; and besides all this, cangive noble entertainment for four or five days together to five or sixearls and lords, besides knights, gentlemen and their followers, if theybe three or four hundred men, and horse of them, where they shall notonly feed but feast, and not feast but banquet, this is a man thatdesires to know nothing so much, as his duty to God and his King, whosegreatest cares are to practise the works of piety, charity, andhospitality: he never studies the consuming art of fashionless fashions, he never tries his strength to bear four or five hundred acres on hisback at once, his legs are always at liberty, not being fettered withgolden garters, and manacled with artificial roses, whose weight(sometime) is the last reliques of some decayed Lordship: Many of theseworthy housekeepers there are in _Scotland_, amongst some of them I wasentertained; from whence I did truly gather these aforesaidobservations. 

So leaving _Cockburnspath_, we rode to _Berwick_, where the worthy oldSoldier and ancient Knight, Sir _William Bowyer_, made me welcome, butcontrary to his will, we lodged at an Inn, where Master _James Acmootye_paid all charges: but at _Berwick_ there was a grievous chance happened, which I think not fit the relation to be omitted. 

In the river of _Tweed_, which runs by _Berwick_, are taken by fishermenthat dwell there, infinite numbers of fresh salmons, so that manyhouseholds and families are relieved by the profit of that fishing; but(how long since I know not) there was an order that no man or boywhatsoever should fish upon a Sunday: this order continued long amongstthem, till some eight or nine weeks before Michaelmas last, on a Sunday, the salmons played in such great abundance in the river, that some ofthe fishermen (contrary to God's law and their own order) took boats andnets and fished, and caught near three hundred salmons; but from thattime until Michaelmas day that I was there, which was nine weeks, andheard the report of it, and saw the poor people's miserablelamentations, they had not seen one salmon in the river; and some ofthem were in despair that they should never see any more there;affirming it to be God's judgment upon them for the profanation of theSabbath. 

The thirtieth of September we rode from _Berwick_ to _Belford_ from_Belford_ to _Alnwick_, the next day from _Alnwick_ to _Newcastle_, where I found the noble Knight, Sir _Henry Witherington_; who, because Iwould have no gold nor silver, gave me a bay mare, in requital of a loafof bread that I had given him two and twenty years before, at the Islandof _Flores_, of the which I have spoken before. I overtook at_Newcastle_ a great many of my worthy friends, which were all coming for_London_, namely, Master _Robert Hay_, and Master _David Drummond_, where I was welcomed at Master _Nicholas Tempests_ house. From_Newcastle_ I rode with those gentlemen to _Durham_, to _Darlington_, to_Northallerton_, and to _Topcliffe_ in _Yorkshire_, where I took myleave of them, and would needs try my pennyless fortunes by myself, andsee the city of _York_, where I was lodged at my right worshipful goodfriend, Master Doctor _Hudson_ one of his Majesty's chaplains, who wentwith me, and shewed me the goodly Minster Church there, and the mostadmirable, rare-wrought, unfellowed[31] chapter house. 

From _York_ I rode to _Doncaster_, where my horses were well fed at theBear, but myself found out the honorable Knight, Sir _Robert Anstruther_at his father-in-law's, the truly noble Sir _Robert Swifts_ house, hebeing then High Sheriff of _Yorkshire_, where with their good Ladies, and the right Honourable the Lord _Sanquhar_, I was stayed two nightsand one day, Sir _Robert Anstruther_ (I thank him) not only paying formy two horses' meat, but at my departure, he gave me a letter to_Newark_ upon _Trent_, twenty eight miles in my way, where Master_George Atkinson_ mine host made me as welcome, as if I had been aFrench Lord, and what was to be paid, as I called for nothing, I paid asmuch; and left the reckoning with many thanks to Sir _RobertAnstruther_. 

So leaving _Newark_, with another gentleman that overtook me, we came atnight to _Stamford_, to the sign of the Virginity (or the Maidenhead)where I delivered a letter from the Lord _Sanquhar_; which caused Master_Bates_ and his wife, being the master and mistress of the house, tomake me and the gentleman that was with me great cheer for nothing. 

From _Stamford_ the next day we rode to _Huntington_, where we lodged atthe Postmaster's house, at the sign of the Crown; his name is _Riggs_. He was informed who I was, and wherefore I undertook this my pennylessprogress: wherefore he came up to our chamber, and supped with us, andvery bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar, and fourjugs of beer. He did drink and begin healths like a horse-leech andswallowed down his cups without feeling, as if he had had the dropsy, ornine pound of sponge in his maw. In a word, as he is a post, he drankpost, striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great, orto make us men of great reckoning. But in his payment he was tired likea jade, leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terribleshot, or else one of my horses must have lain in pawn for hissuperfluous calling, and unmannerly intrusion. 

But leaving him, I left _Huntington_, and rode on the Sunday to_Puckeridge_, where Master _Holland_ at the Falcon, (mine oldacquaintance) and my loving and ancient host gave me, my friend, my man, and our horses excellent cheer, and welcome, and I paid him with, not apenny of money. 

The next day I came to _London_, and obscurely coming within Moorgate, Iwent to a house and borrowed money: and so I stole back again to_Islington_, to the sign of the Maidenhead, [32] staying till Wednesday, that my friends came to meet me, who knew no other, but that Wednesdaywas my first coming; where with all love I was entertained with muchgood cheer: and after supper we had a play of the Life and Death of _Guyof Warwick_, [33] played by the Right Honourable the Earl of _Derby_ hismen. And so on the Thursday morning being the fifteenth of October, Icame home to my house in _London_. 

[Decorative thought break]

THE EPILOGUE TO ALL MY ADVENTURERS AND OTHERS. 

 Thus did I neither spend, or beg, or ask, By any course, direct or indirectly: But in each tittle I performed my task, According to my bill most circumspectly. I vow to God, I have done SCOTLAND wrong, (And (justly) against me it may bring an action) I have not given it that right which doth belong, For which I am half guilty of detraction: Yet had I wrote all things that there I saw, Misjudging censures would suppose I flatter, And so my name I should in question draw, Where asses bray, and prattling pies do chatter: Yet (armed with truth) I publish with my pen, That there the Almighty doth his blessings heap, In such abundant food for beasts and men; That I ne'er saw more plenty or more cheap. Thus what mine eyes did see, I do believe; And what I do believe, I know is true: And what is true unto your hands I give, That what I give, may be believed of you. But as for him that says I lie or dote, I do return, and turn the lie in's throat. Thus gentlemen, amongst you take my ware, You share my thanks, and I your moneys share. 

 _Yours in all observance and gratefulness, ever to be commanded_, JOHN TAYLOR. 

FINIS. 

[Decoration]

[Footnote 1: PROVANT. --Provender; provision. ]

[Footnote 2: FEGARY. --A vagary. ]

[Footnote 3: TRUNDLE. --_i. E. _, John Trundle of the sign of _No-body_(see note page 6). ]

[Footnote 4: It is reasonable to conjecture that at this date the customof "Swearing-in at Highgate was not in vogue--or, _No-body_ would havetaken the oath. ]

[Footnote 5: NAMED LEAN AND FEN. --Some jest is intended here on theHost's name. --Qy. , Leanfen, or, the anagram of A. FENNEL. ]

[Footnote 6: NO-BODY was the singular sign of John Trundle, aballad-printer in Barbican in the seventeenth century [and who seems tohave accompanied our author as far as _Whetstone_ on his "PennilessPilgrimage"--and, certainly up to this point a very "wet" one!] In oneof Ben Jonson's plays Nobody is introduced, "attyred in a payre ofBreeches, which were made to come up to his neck, with his armes out athis pockets and cap drowning his face. " This comedy was "printed forJohn Trundle and are to be sold at his shop in Barbican at the sygne ofNo-Body. " A unique ballad, preserved in the Miller Collection atBritwell House, entitled "The Well-spoken No-body, " is accompanied by awoodcut representing a ragged barefooted fool on pattens, with a tornmoney-bag under his arm, walking through a chaos of broken pots, pans, bellows, candlesticks, tongs, tools, windows, &c. Above him is a scrollin black-letter:--

"Nobody. Is. My. Name. That. Beyreth. Every. Bodyes. Blame. "

The ballad commences as follows:--

 "Many speke of Robin Hoode that never shott in his bowe, So many have layed faultes to me, which I did never knowe; But nowe, beholde, here I am, Whom all the worlde doeth diffame; Long have they also scorned me, And locked my mouthe for speking free. As many a Godly man they have so served Which unto them God's truth hath shewed; Of such they have burned and hanged some. That unto their ydolatrye wold not come: The Ladye Truthe they have locked in cage, Saying of her Nobodye had knowledge. For as much nowe as they name Nobodye I thinke verilye they speke of me: Whereffore to answere I nowe beginne-- The locke of my mouthe is opened with ginne, Wrought by no man, but by God's grace, Unto whom be prayse in every place, " &c. 

Larwood and Hotten's _History of Signboards_. ]

[Footnote 7: PULSE. --All sorts of leguminous seeds. ]

[Footnote 8: See Dedication to _The Scourge of Baseness_. ]

[Footnote 9: MASTER DOCTOR HOLLAND. --The once well-known PhilemonHolland, Physician, and "Translator-General of his Age, " publishedtranslations of Livy, 1600; Pliny's "Natural History, " 1601; Camden's"Britannica, " &c. He is said to have used in translation more paper andfewer pens than any other writer before or since, and who "would not letSuetonius be Tranquillus. " Born at Chelmsford, 1551; died 1636. ]

[Footnote 10: EDMUND BRANTHWAITE. --Robert Branthwaite, WilliamBranthwaite _Cant. _, and "Thy assured friend" R. B. , have each writtenCommendatory Verses to ALL THE WORKS OF JOHN TAYLOR. London 1630. AndSouthey in his "Lives and Works of Uneducated Poets, " has thefollowing:--"One might have hoped in these parts for a happy meetingbetween John Taylor and Barnabee, of immortal memory; indeed it islikely that the Water-Poet and the Anti-Water-Poet were acquainted, andthat the latter may have introduced him to his connections hereabout, Branthwaite being the same name as Brathwait, and Barnabee's brotherhaving married a daughter of this Sir John Dalston. "]

[Footnote 11: PIERCE PENNILESS, by Thomas Nash. London, 1592. ]

[Footnote 12: This "ordnance of iron" still exists there, and ishistorically known as "Mons Meg" and popularly as "Long Meg. "]

[Footnote 13: RECEITE. --A receptacle. ]

[Footnote 14: VAUSTITY. --Emptiness. ]

[Footnote 15: _See_ Anderson's The Cold Spring of Kinghorn Craig, Edinb. 1618. ]

[Footnote 16: CORYATIZING. --Thomas Coryate, an English traveller, whocalled himself the "Odcombian leg-stretcher. " He was the son of therector of Odcombe, and in 1611 published an account of his travels onthe Continent with the singular title of "Coryates Crudities. Hastilygobled up in five Moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia, commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia, alias Switzerland, someparts of high Germany, and the Netherlands; Newly digested in thehungary aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed tothe nourishment of the travelling members of this Kingdome, &c. London, printed by W. S. , Anno Domini 1611. " Taylor had an especial grudgeagainst Coryat, for having had influence enough to procure his "Laughand be Fat"--directed against the traveller--to be burned; and that henever failed to "feed fat the ancient grudge, " may be seen in the manypieces of ridicule levelled at the author of the "Crudities, " even afterhis death. ]

[Footnote 17: TOPHET. --The Hebrew name for _Hell_. ]

[Footnote 18: CIMMERIAN. --Pertaining to the Cimmerii, or their country;extremely and perpetually dark. The Cimmerii were an ancient people ofthe land now called the Crimea, and their country being subject to heavyfogs, was fabled to be involved in deep and continual obscurity. Ancientpoets also mention a people of this name who dwelt in a valley near LakeAvernus, in Italy, which the sun was said never to visit. ]

[Footnote 19: PERTH. ]

[Footnote 20: BRAEMAR. ]

[Footnote 21: VIRGINAL JACK. --A keyed instrument resembling a spinet. ]

[Footnote 22: RED-SHANKS. --A contemptuous appellation for Scottish Highlandclansmen and native Irish, with reference to their naked hirsute limbs, and"As lively as a _Red-Shank_" is still a proverbial saying:--"And we came intoIreland, where they would have landed in the north parts. But I wouldnot, because there the inhabitants were all _Red-shanks_. "--_Sir WalterRaleigh's_ Speech on the Scaffold. ]

[Footnote 23: PUT ME INTO THAT SHAPE. --That is, invested him in Highlandattire. ]

[Footnote 24: "Probably the district around the skirts of BenMuicdui. "--_Chambers'_ Domestic Annals of Scotland. ]

[Footnote 25: BALLOCH CASTLE. --Now called Castle-Grant. ]

[Footnote 26: MORAY. ]

[Footnote 27: MORAYLAND. ]

[Footnote 28: SUGAR-CANDIAN. --_i. E. _, Sugar-candy. ]

[Footnote 29: A PIECE OF GOLD OF TWO-AND-TWENTY SHILLINGS. --"This was aconsiderable present; but Jonson's hand and heart were ever open to hisacquaintance. All his pleasures were social; and while health andfortune smiled upon him, he was no niggard either of his time or talentsto those who needed them. There is something striking in Taylor'sconcluding sentence, when the result of his (Jonson's) visit to Drummondis considered:--but there is one _evil that walks_, which keener eyesthan John's have often failed to discover. --I have only to add, injustice to this honest man (Taylor) that his gratitude outlived thesubject of it. He paid the tribute of a verse to his benefactor'smemory:--the verse indeed, was mean: but poor Taylor had nothing betterto give. "--Lt. Col. Francis Cunningham's edition of Gifford's BenJonson's Works, p. Xli. 

"In the summer of 1618 Scotland received a visit from the famous BenJonson. The burly Laureate walked all the way, among the motives for ajourney then undertaken by few Englishmen, might be curiosity regardinga country from which he knew that his family was derived, hisgrandfather having been one of the Johnsons of Annandale. He had manyfriends too, particularly among the connections of the Lennox family, whom he might be glad to see at their own houses. Among those with whomhe had amicable intercourse, was William Drummond, the poet, then in theprime of life, and living as a bachelor in his romantic mansion ofHawthornden, on the Esk, seven miles from Edinburgh. It is probable thatDrummond and Jonson had met before in London, and indulged together inthe "wit-combats" at the Mermaid and similar scenes. Indeed, there is aprevalent belief in Scotland that it was mainly to see Drummond atHawthornden that Jonson came so far from home, and certain it is, fromDrummond's report of his '_Conversations_, ' that he designed 'to write aFisher or Pastoral (Piscatory?) Play--and make the stage of it on theLomond Lake--he also contemplated writing in prose his 'Foot Pilgrimageto Scotland, ' which, with a feeling very natural in one who found somuch to admire where so little had been known, he spoke of entitling 'ADISCOVERY. ' Unfortunately, this work, as well as a poem in which hecalled Edinburgh--

 'The Heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye, '

has not been preserved to us. We can readily see that the workcontemplated must have been of a general character, from Jonson'sletters to Drummond on the subject of it. How much to be regretted thatwe have not the Scotland of that day delineated by so vigorous a pen asthat of the author of _Sejanual_"--_Chambers'_ DomesticAnnals of Scotland, vol. 1. 

Whether Taylor's "Penniless Pilgrimage" really did interfere with, andprevent the publication of Ben Jonson's 'Foot Pilgrimage' would now bedifficult to say. It is very evident from Taylor's remarks in hisDedication "To all my loving adventurers, &c. , " he had been accused bythe critics that he "_did undergo this project, either in malice, ormockage of Master Benjamin Jonson_. " It is quite certain that Taylorlost no time in getting his "Pilgrimage" printed "at the charges of theauthor" immediately on his return to London on the fifteenth of October1618. ]

[Footnote 30: ROUSE. --A full glass, a bumper. ]

[Footnote 31: UNFELLOWED. --_i. E. _, not matched. ]

[Footnote 32: TO ISLINGTON TO THE SIGN OF THE MAINDENHEAD. --This thenroadside Public-house, we are informed from recent enquiries, wassituate at the corner of Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, now known as King'sCross, from a statue of George IV. --a most execrable performance takendown 1842. The "Old Pub" is turned into a gin palace, and named theVictoria, while Maiden Lane--an ancient way leading from Battle Bridgeto Highgate Hill--is known now as York Road. ]

[Footnote 33: GUY OF WARWICK. --There are several versions and editions ofthis work. In the book of the Stationers' Company, John Trundle--he atthe sign of NO-BODY--on the 15th of January, 1619, entered "a play, called the Life and Death of Guy Earl of Warwick, written by John Dayand Thomas Dekker. " See Baker's Biog. Dram. , page 274, vol. 2. --"Well, if he read this with patience I'll be gelt, and troll ballads for MasterTrundle yonder, the rest of my mortality. "--_Ben Jonson's_ Every Man inhis Humour, act i. Sc. 2. ]

Corrections Made by Transcriber

 Page 16, line 16: "hls" changed to "his. " Page 36: "forgotton" changed to "forgotten. " Page 46: "musquitoes" changed to "mosquitoes. " Footnote 6, last line of poem: "he" changed to "be. " Page 46: Orphaned right parenthesis removed.