THE LOGBOOKS OFTHE LADY NELSON WITH THE JOURNAL OF HER FIRST COMMANDERLIEUTENANT JAMES GRANT, R. N. BY IDA LEE, F. R. G. S. (MRS. CHARLES BRUCE MARRIOTT. ) AUTHOR OF:THE COMING OF THE BRITISH TO AUSTRALIA, [and]COMMODORE SIR JOHN HAYES, HIS VOYAGE AND LIFE. WITH SIXTEEN CHARTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS FROM THE ORIGINALSIN THE ADMIRALTY LIBRARY. GRAFTON & CO. 69 GREAT RUSSELL STREETLONDON. W. C. First Published in 1915. TO THE MEMORY OF MY GRANDFATHER, WILLIAM LEE, ONE OF AUSTRALIA'S PIONEERS. PREFACE. The objects for which the Lady Nelson's voyages were undertaken renderher logbooks of more than ordinary interest. She was essentially anAustralian discovery ship and during her successive commissions she wasemployed exclusively in Australian waters. The number of voyages that shemade will perhaps never be accurately known, but her logbooks inexistence testify to the important missions that she accomplished. Themost notable are those which record early discoveries in Victoria: theexploration of the Queensland coast: the surveys of King Island and theKent Group: the visits to New Zealand and the founding of settlements atHobart, Port Dalrymple, and Melville Island. Seldom can the logbooks of asingle ship show such a record. Their publication seemed very necessary, for the handwriting on the pages of some of them is so faded that it isalready difficult to decipher, and apparently only the story of Grant'svoyages and the extracts from Murray's log published by Labilliere in theEarly History of Victoria have ever before been published. Intranscription I have somewhat modernized the spelling where old orincorrect forms tended to obscure the sense, and omitted repetitions, asit would have been impossible to include within the limits of one volumethe whole of the contents of the logbooks. The story of the Lady Nelsonas told by Grant has in places been paraphrased, for he sometimes writesit in diary form under date headings and at others he inserts the date inthe narrative. The entries from the logbooks of Murray, Curtoys andSymons, in the Public Record Office, with such omissions as I havespecified, are printed verbatim. Murray's charts now published are distinctly valuable, as in the fourthvolume of the Historical Records of New South Wales, where they should befound, it is stated that they are "unfortunately missing. " On my inquiring at the Admiralty, Mr. Perrin, the Librarian, to whom mycordial thanks are due, made a special search and was fortunate enough todiscover them. Thus, after a long separation, Murray's charts and hisjournal are united again in this volume. Perhaps the most importantchart, and the one which should appeal especially to the people ofVictoria, is that of Port Phillip showing the track of the Lady Nelson'sboat when the brig entered the bay for the first time. Murray's logtelling of this discovery ends on March 24th, 1802. In writing later tothe Duke of Portland, Governor King says: "The Lady Nelson's return justbefore I closed my letters enabled me to transmit Acting-LieutenantMurray's log copies of the discoveries of King Island and Port Phillip. These important discoveries, being combined with the chart of formersurveys, I hope will convince your Grace that that highly useful vesselthe Lady Nelson has not been idle under my direction. " The charts weresent home in charge of Lieutenant Mackellar, who sailed in the shipCaroline on March 30th, 1802, six days after the Lady Nelson's return. Duplicates were forwarded by the Speedy, which left Sydney in June, but acomparison of those at the Admiralty shows that King added nothingfurther to this second series. My thanks are also due to Lieutenant Bell, R. N. , whose researches haveenabled me to publish the charts of the Queensland coast. These oldcharts cannot fail to interest students of Australian history. It ispossible that they do not include all that were sent home at first, norare the Lady Nelson's logbooks complete; those however of Grant andMurray, Curtoys and Symons, give us the story of the work carried out bythose energetic seamen. They are writings worthy of being more widelyknown, for they are records left by men who sailed uncharted seas alongunknown coasts in days which will not come again--men who have helped togive to later generations a spacious continent with a limitless horizon. IDA LEE. CONTENTS. CHAPTER 1. THE LADY NELSON BUILT WITH CENTREBOARDS. HER VOYAGE TO SYDNEY UNDER JAMES GRANT. THE FIRST SHIP TO PASS THROUGH BASS STRAIT. CHAPTER 2. RETURNS TO EXPLORE THE STRAIT. HER VISITS TO JERVIS BAY AND TO WESTERN PORT IN 1801. CHAPTER 3. COLONEL PATERSON AND LIEUTENANT GRANT SURVEY HUNTER RIVER. CHAPTER 4. MURRAY APPOINTED COMMANDER OF THE LADY NELSON. HIS VOYAGE TO NORFOLK ISLAND. CHAPTER 5. MURRAY'S EXPLORATION OF BASS STRAIT. CHAPTER 6. DISCOVERY OF PORT PHILLIP. CHAPTER 7. THE LADY NELSON IN COMPANY WITH H. M. S. INVESTIGATOR EXAMINES THENORTH-EASTERN SHORES OF AUSTRALIA. CHAPTER 8. THE FRENCH SHIPS IN BASS STRAIT. THE FOUNDING OF HOBART. CHAPTER 9. SYMONS SUCCEEDS CURTOYS AS COMMANDER OF THE LADY NELSON. HIS VOYAGES TO PORT PHILLIP, TASMANIA AND NEW ZEALAND. CHAPTER 10. THE LADY NELSON IN TASMANIA. THE FOUNDING OF PORT DALRYMPLE. CHAPTER 11. THE ESTRAMINA IS BROUGHT TO SYDNEY. THE LADY NELSON VISITS NORFOLK ISLAND AND PORT DALRYMPLE. CHAPTER 12. TIPPAHEE AND HIS FOUR SONS ARE CONVEYED TO NEW ZEALAND IN THE LADYNELSON. CHAPTER 13. THE LADY NELSON ACCOMPANIES H. M. S. TAMAR TO MELVILLE ISLAND. CHAPTER 14. THE LOSS OF THE LADY NELSON. APPENDIX. INDEX. ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. THE LADY NELSON. From a painting in the possession of the VictorianGovernment. 2. LIEUTENANT JAMES GRANT'S CHART OF THE AUSTRALIAN COAST. [Jas Grant autograph facsimile. ] 3. EYE-SKETCH OF THE LADY NELSON'S TRACK ON HER FIRST VOYAGE THROUGH BASSSTRAIT. Drawn by Governor King. Writing of this chart, he says that thelongitude in which Lieutenant Grant placed Cape Otway was about a degreeand a half in error. He also made the land to trend away on the west sideof Cape Otway to a deep bay, which he named Portland Bay. An examinationof modern maps will show that the name Portland Bay has been retained fora bay to the westward of Grant's Portland Bay, which is now calledArmstrong Bay. Chart of the track of His Majesty's Armoured Surveying Vessel Lady NelsonLieutenant James Grant Commander. From Bass's Straits between New Hollandand Van Diemen's Land on her passage from England to Port Jackson. ByOrder of His Grace The Duke of Portland. In December 1800. 4. CHART OF WESTERN PORT SURVEYED BY ENSIGN BARRALLIER IN 1801. 5. CHART OF BASS STRAIT SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES MADE BETWEEN SEPTEMBER1800 AND MARCH 1802. Drawn by Ensign Barrallier, New South Wales Corps, under the direction of Captain P. G. King, Governor of New South Wales. "This chart is generally referred to as "Barrallier's Combined Chart. "King doubtless alludes to it when writing to the Duke of Portland in May1802. See Historical Records of New South Wales volume 4 page 761. ) (CHART OF KING'S ISLAND IN BASS'S STRAIT. This earliest chart of KingIsland was drawn by Alexander Dalrymple from a sketch made by Flinders ofMurray's original chart. Flinders added to it the west coast unseen byMurray, though it had been sighted by both Black and Buyers. The detailsgiven by Flinders were supplied by William Campbell, master of theHarrington, who, in March 1802, found a quantity of wreckage there. Nothing remained to show the name of the lost vessel, nor was any cluesubsequently discovered by which she could be identified. The Harringtonlay at anchor at New Year's Isles for over two months, but could nottrace the nationality of the vessel or her crew except in the language ofthe Harrington's captain, "one dead English cat. " See Historical Recordsof New South Wales volume 4 page 780. ) 6. THE LADY NELSON AND THE FRANCIS SCHOONER ENTERING HUNTER RIVER. 7. COAL HARBOUR (NEWCASTLE, NEW SOUTH WALES), SURVEYED BY ENSIGNBARRALLIER IN 1801. Coal Harbour and Rivers on the Coast of New South Wales. Surveyed byEnsign Barrallier, in His Majesty's Armed Surveying Vessel Lady Nelson:Lieutenant James Grant Commander. In June and July 1801, by Order ofGovernor King. High Water Full and Change in the Harbour 9 hours 45 minutes. Rises 6feet. Remarks on Hunter's River: The entrance of Hunter's River is in latitude32 degrees 57 minutes south, distinguishable by an Island on thesouth-east side of its entrance which in coming from the northwardappears like a castle, being perpendicular on the south-east side and 203feet high: the north side is steep and covered with grass. It is thenorthernmost high land from Sydney to the Heads of Port Stephens fromwhich it lies north-east 6 leagues. The intermediate space being a sandybeach. The tides both in the harbour and entrance runs very strong, andin some places not less than four miles an hour and sometimes from fourto five. The ebb in general is much stronger than the flood: 9 3/4 hoursin the harbour makes high water full and change, and rises six feetperpendicular where the Lady Nelson anchored, and four feet when she washigher up the river. In the harbour there is good shelter from all windsand plenty of room for more than 100 sail of shipping. There is plenty ofwater to be had on the north shore by digging a very little way down. There are three wells already dug, and the water is very good. On thesouth shore there are plenty of runs of fresh water. For further information refer to Colonel Paterson and Lieutenant Grant'sNarrative. 8. ROUTE OF H. M. A. S. VESSEL LADY NELSON ALONG THE COAST OF NEW SOUTHWALES ON A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY IN 1801, undertaken by Command of HisExcellency Governor King. By Jno. Murray Acting Lieutenant and Commander. Note the Coast is according to Captain Cook. Jarvis Bay was visited by yeLady Nelson in March 1801. Twofold Bay is from Bass's track in the WhaleBoat. 9. KENT'S GROUP. By John Murray. 10. KING ISLAND FROM JOHN MURRAY'S CHART. 11. CHART OF PORT PHILLIP SHOWING THE TRACK OF THE LADY NELSON'S BOAT IN1802. In this chart by Murray, sent to the Admiralty from Sydney by GovernorKing in 1802, few names appear, although Murray named Point Palmer, PointPaterson, and Point Nepean, and the fact that it bears the date January1802 seems further evidence that it is the first chart of Port Philipdrawn by its discoverer. It is one of those referred to as "unfortunatelymissing" in the Historical Records of New South Wales volume 4 page 764. 12. CHART OF BASS STRAIT, INCLUDING THE DISCOVERIES OF ACTING-LIEUTENANTJOHN MURRAY IN THE LADY NELSON, between November 1801 AND march 1802. Bycommand of His Excellency Governor King. This chart, which bears Murray'sautograph, shows his explorations of Western Port, Port Philip, and KingIsland. It should be noted that Flinders' Island is named Grand Capuchin. This is one of the charts referred to as "unfortunately missing" in theHistorical Records of New South Wales volume 4 page 764. 13. TRACK OF THE LADY NELSON IN COMPANY WITH H. M. S. INVESTIGATOR ON AVOYAGE OF DISCOVERY along the coast of New South Wales. By John Murray. This chart also bears Murray's signature, as well as the outward andreturn track of his ship. 14. CONTINUATION OF THE TRACK OF THE LADY NELSON IN JULY 1802. 15. SKETCH OF PORT NUMBER 1 (PORT CURTIS), FACEING ISLAND AND KEPPEL BAY. By John Murray, made on board H. M. Armed surveying vessel Lady Nelson. 16. THE TRACK OF THE LADY NELSON TO PORT NUMBER 2. (PORT BOWEN). By JohnMurray. This chart and the one in Illustration 15 differ in delineation from therest of Murray's charts of his voyage northwards, and are beautifullydrawn and coloured. Probably they were the work of Westall, the artistwith Flinders, Murray merely adding to them his homeward track. [Facsimile signature Jno Murray] 17. THE LADY NELSON'S ANCHORAGE AT HUNTER RIVER. 18. APPENDIX. H. M. S. BUFFALO, SHIP'S MUSTER. THE LOGBOOKS OF THE LADY NELSON. CHAPTER 1. THE FIRST VOYAGE OF THE LADY NELSON. The logbooks of the Lady Nelson bear witness to the leading part playedby one small British ship in the discovery of a great continent. Theyshow how closely, from the date of her first coming to Sydney in 1800until her capture by pirates off the island of Baba in 1825, this littlebrig was identified with the colonisation and development of Australia. In entering upon her eventful colonial career, "the Lady Nelson did thatwhich alone ought to immortalize her name--she was the first ship thatever sailed parallel to the entire southern coast line of Australia. "* (*Early History of Victoria by F. P. Labilliere. ) She was also the firstvessel to sail through Bass Strait. But discovery cannot claim her solelyfor itself. While she was stationed at Sydney there was scarcely adependency of the mother colony that was not more or less indebted toher, either for proclaiming it a British possession, or for bringing itsettlers and food, or for providing it with means of defence against theattacks of natives. In the early history of Victoria the Lady Nelson occupies a nichesomewhat similar to that which the Endeavour fills in the annals of NewSouth Wales, but while Cook and the Endeavour discovered the east coastand then left it, the Lady Nelson, after charting the bare coast-line ofVictoria, returned again and again to explore its inlets and to penetrateits rivers, her boats discovering the spacious harbour at the head ofwhich Melbourne now stands. The Lady Nelson also went northward as well as southward, and though manyof her logbooks are missing, some survive, and one describes how, incompany with the Investigator under Captain Flinders, she examined theQueensland shore as far as the Cumberland Islands. Later she accompaniedthe Mermaid, under Captain King, to Port Macquarie when he followedFlinders' track through Torres Strait, and during her long period ofservice she visited different parts of the coast, including Moreton Bay, Port Essington, and Melville Island. Precisely how many voyages she madeas a pioneer will probably never be known. The ship, at least, playedmany parts: now acting as King's messenger and carrying despatches fromthe Governor to Norfolk Island; now fetching grain grown at theHawkesbury, or coals from Newcastle for the use of the increasingpopulation at Sydney; and at another time carrying troops and settlers tothe far distant north. She made other memorable voyages; for example, when she conveyed bricks burnt in Sydney brick kilns to Tasmania and toNew Zealand, in order to build homes for the first white settlers inthose lands. She helped also to establish Lieutenant Bowen's colony atRisdon. On that occasion we read that the little ship lent the colony abell and half a barrel of gunpowder. The logbooks do not record to whatuse the bell was put, but whether it served as a timekeeper or to callthe people to worship, it was doubtless highly valued by the earlyTasmanian colonists. At the time of her sailing to Australia the Lady Nelson was a new ship of60 tons. She was built at Deptford in 1799, and differed from otherexploring vessels in having a centre-board keel. This was the inventionof Captain John Schanck, R. N. , who believed that ships so constructed"would sail faster, steer easier, tack and wear quicker and in lessroom. " He had submitted his design to the Admiralty in 1783, and so wellwas it thought of that two similar boats had been built for the Navy, onewith a centre-board and one without, in order that a trial might be made. The result was so successful that, besides the Cynthia sloop and Trialrevenue cutter, other vessels were constructed on the new plan, amongthem the Lady Nelson. She was chosen for exploration because her threesliding centre-boards enabled her draught to be lessened in shallowwaters, for when her sliding keels were up she drew no more than sixfeet. In 1799 the news reached London that the French were fitting out anexpedition to survey unknown portions of Australia; the Admiralty werequickly stirred to renewed activity, and decided to send the Lady Nelsonto Sydney. At first it was believed that Captain Flinders would be placedin charge of her, but he was eventually given a more important command, and Lieutenant James Grant was appointed to the Lady Nelson. She washauled out of Deadman's Dock into the river on January 13th, 1800, withher full complement of men and stores on board. She carried provisionsfor 15 men for a period of nine months, and enough water for threemonths. Her armament consisted of only two brass carriage-guns. On January 16th she sailed to Gravesend. So small did she look as shemade her way down the Thames that the sailors on board the ships in theriver ridiculed her appearance and ironically christened her "HisMajesty's Tinderbox. " Grant says that many expressed a doubt that shewould ever make her port of destination. A heavy gale was blowing when she reached the Downs, but from the firstshe proved herself a good sea-boat, and it was found that lowering thekeels greatly steadied her. Grant now had a good opportunity for testingher capabilities. A large convoy ready to sail for the West Indies lay atanchor here, and on the evening of the 23rd, as the fury of the windincreased, many signals of distress were seen flying in the offing. Finding the Lady Nelson drag very much, her commander let go anotheranchor, with the result that she rode out through the gale with ease, although next morning six vessels were ashore dismasted, while two othershad lost both their masts and bowsprits. He then decided to take shelterin Ramsgate, where he remained until the 7th, when he sailed to Spitheadand thence to Portsmouth. Here four more guns were placed on board andsome oak planking, which caused the brig to lie deeper in the water, sothat Grant writes "there were then only 2 feet 9 inches clear abreast thegangway. " He believed, however, that the consumption of coal andprovisions would soon bring her to a proper degree of buoyancy. During her stay at Portsmouth the Lady Nelson lost two men, one throughillness, the other by desertion. On March 15th, when she was quite readyfor sea, Captain Schanck and Mr. Bayley* (* W. Bayley, formerlyastronomer on board the Adventure. ) paid her a visit. Orders had beengiven for her to leave port in company with H. M. S. Anson, Captain Durham, who (as the Powers were at war) was to convoy a fleet of East Indiamen, then on point of sailing, and with whom was H. M. S. Porpoise, bound to NewSouth Wales. The wind being fair, on the night of March 16th, 1800, thesignal for sailing was given by the Commodore. While all hands werebusily engaged getting up the kedge, the carpenter made his escape in thedarkness. Anxious to avoid further delay, and somewhat consoled by thethought that the vessel was new and that he had already tested and foundout her good qualities, Lieutenant Grant decided to put up with the lossof the man's services. At 6 P. M. On the 18th the ship finally bade adieu to England. At firstshe was scarcely able to keep pace with the big ships which bore hercompany, and very soon the Commodore despatched an officer to hercommander to suggest that he should go into Falmouth and await there thedeparture of the West India Fleet. But, as the final decision was leftwith Lieutenant Grant, he preferred to go on, believing that he couldkeep pace with the convoy. During the afternoon of the 19th a namesake ofhis, Captain James Grant of the Brunswick, East Indiaman, hailed him andinformed him that he had orders to take the Lady Nelson in tow. Thecommander of the brig did not at all relish this news, but dreadingfurther detention as he was in the track of the enemy, he took theproffered hawser on board. The brig towed well as long as the sea wassmooth, and at first no discomfort was felt. Then a continued spell ofbad weather ensued, and a driving rain, which found its way under thecovering boards and along the gunwale of the ship, caused greatunpleasantness. Worse was to follow, for it began to blow very hard, andthe Brunswick set off at high speed, dragging the little brig mercilesslythrough the heavy seas which almost enveloped her. The sight evoked muchamusement among the passengers on board the big Indiaman, who frequentlyvisited the stern galley to watch the waves wash completely over the LadyNelson. On the 23rd of March an unusually heavy sea strained the brig to such adegree that Grant ordered the hawser to be let go, and bade the Brunswickfarewell. It was imagined by those on board the larger vessel that theLady Nelson, deeming it impossible to proceed, had turned back toPortsmouth. Grant, however, had determined to continue his voyage alone. He lost sight of the fleet during the night, and next day, in latitude 43degrees 55 minutes north and longitude 14 degrees 17 minutes west, theweather being fine and clear, he ordered the saturated bedding to bebrought up from below and placed on deck to dry. This practice wascontinued throughout the voyage, and to it, and to the care taken toprevent the men sleeping in wet clothes, Grant attributed the healthystate of the crew on reaching Sydney. When the sea moderated it was alsopossible to stop the leaks on deck. On the 25th a strange sail was sighted, and from the masthead a largefleet was soon afterwards made out bearing north-north-east. One shipdetached itself from the rest and gave chase to the Lady Nelson, gainingfast upon her. She was perceived to be an English frigate. At 6 P. M. Shefired a shot which compelled Lieutenant Grant to shorten sail and to showhis colours. As a second shot was fired it was clear that the frigatestill mistook him for one of the enemy, so he wore and stood towards her, when she proved to be H. M. S. Hussar, acting as convoy to the West IndiaFleet. Her commander informed Grant that he had mistaken the Lady Nelsonfor a Spaniard, and expressed his regret for having given so muchtrouble, and after the usual compliments they parted. Grant adds that hedid not learn the name of the courteous commander, * (* It was ViscountGarlies. ) but again at daylight the Lady Nelson came on part of hisconvoy, which, not knowing who she was, crowded sail to get out of herway, "with, " says Grant, "one exception, this being the ----, which, muchto his credit, hove to and fired a shot almost plump on board of us. Another vessel, the Hope of Liverpool, I could hardly keep clear of, forthe more I attempted to avoid him the more he attempted to get near me, so much so that we were near running on board each other. " The Hope'scaptain asked Grant very peremptorily who he was and where he came from, to which Grant replied by hoisting his colours and pendant; but even thisdid not satisfy the irate merchant skipper, who appeared to have had verydecided intentions of running down the Lady Nelson. Eventually, however, he rejoined the convoy, which stood to the westward under close-reefedtop-sails. On the 1st of April the Lady Nelson fell in with another heavy gale whichraged till the 3rd, and finding that his ship was drifting south ofMadeira, Grant shaped a course for Las Palmas. On the 8th he crossed the Tropic of Cancer. On Sunday the 13th he came to an anchor in Port Praya, St. Iago, wherethe Governor received him with much politeness and gave him permission toreplenish his ship. While in this port Grant discovered that the secondmate had sown seeds of discontent among his crew, so he promptly handedhim over to the Governor to be sent back to England. Two boys, however, deserted and ran off with a boat. Several parties were sent out in searchof them by the Governor, and the two deserters were eventually caught andbrought home by the natives--both riding on one ass. The sight of thebluejackets in such a predicament vastly amused the Portuguese seamen inport, who ridiculed them to such an extent that Grant did not think itnecessary to punish them further. Grant describes the natives of PortPraya as resembling negroes, and remarks that the females seemed to spendtheir time in spinning cotton from a distaff with a spindle. The ship'skeels were examined here and one found to be broken, but the repairs, owing to the assistance given by the Governor, were finished in two days. Having taken in a sufficient supply of water, the Lady Nelson left St. Iago on April 27th. The Governor, who seems to have been most polite andobliging to everybody, permitted two Portuguese sailors to be entered onher muster-roll, which brought her crew up to twelve. Soon after leavingport, one of the seamen became ill, and as his temperature rose very highthe commander gave orders for him to be immediately isolated, though hewas fortunately cured in four days. The food served to the men thenunderwent some alteration. It was thought that oatmeal was too heating inthe humid weather of the tropics, and tea was substituted for it atbreakfast, wine supplemented with spruce beer being issued instead ofspirits. Not one man fell sick afterwards. As the ship neared the Equator various cross-currents were frequently metwith, and "heavy squalls with rain" and a very disagreeable sea arose, the result of a sudden change of wind from north-north-east to south-westand south-south-west. The Lady Nelson pitched and rolled considerably, and nearly every one on board was sea-sick. On the 6th it fell calmagain. At 6 A. M. On the 9th a schooner was sighted, and shortly afterward abrig, which stood towards the ship. Believing that the latter was anenemy, Grant was glad when a storm hid her from view. On the 10th, however, a glimpse of the brig was again caught, and on the 13th two moresail were descried standing to the westward, but they finallydisappeared. The Lady Nelson was now surrounded by flying-fish andtropical birds in great numbers, the latter being of the speciesmentioned by Captain Cook as seen by him when he traversed this route. On May 16th a long, heavy swell was experienced with light airs, and thesea took a luminous appearance. A spell of bad weather followed, endingon the 23rd, when, the day being fine, the boats were lowered and thekeels overhauled and repaired, and it was then found that a new piece ofwood which had been put on the after keel at Port Praya was missing. Nothaving sufficient timber on board to repair it as before, the keel waslet farther down in the well and a breadth of planking was joined to itwith iron hooping and nails, with the result that it extended three feetbelow the vessel. On the 28th, when nearing Rio de Janeiro, an inspection was made of thebread and water, and as the latter was found to be in good conditionGrant decided not to enter the port. Some of the bread was a littledamaged by leakage into the bread room, but a more water-tight place forstoring it was soon found. About the same date birds were again observed, particularly the hoglet: the men caught many of these and made caps oftheir skins. Mother Cary's chickens* (* Procellaria pelagica Linn. ) werealso met with in great numbers. Gales and calms now alternated until June11th, when there were frequent squalls, the wind finally blowing withsuch violence that at 3 P. M. It was thought advisable to heave to. Laterthe storm abated, and the vessel was able to make good progress until the18th. A curious sea followed the ship on this day, the waves risingperpendicularly, so that the commander conjectured that there was groundat no great depth. He put the deep-sea lead over, but no soundings couldbe obtained. On the 23rd at 3 P. M. A vessel was seen bearing down before the windtowards the Lady Nelson. The stranger proved to be a Spanish brigcarrying prize colours. She had been captured in the River Plate by aprivateer which had been fitted out by a merchant at the Cape of GoodHope, and was commanded by Mr. John Black. She was then on her way to theCape of Good Hope. On coming within hail her master informed the LadyNelson's commander that he had neither book nor chart on board, andwished to know where he was; he also begged some twine and canvas torepair his sails. The prize was of about 70 tons burthen and was loadedwith beeswax, hides, tallow, and tobacco. She was without a boat, as ithad been washed overboard, so Lieutenant Grant shortened sail and desiredher captain to keep near him and gave him the latitude and longitude. Onthe following day the Lady Nelson lowered a boat and brought the prizemaster on board, to whom Lieutenant Grant gave a chart of the Cape andseveral other necessaries. He asked Mr. Black why he had so boldlyapproached the Lady Nelson, since his ship was painted like a Spaniard, and so might well have been taken for one. Black's answer was that heknew from her canvas that the Lady Nelson was not an enemy. When he wasshown over her he expressed his astonishment at her centre-boards, andher construction was therefore explained to him. But evidently he was notfavourably impressed, for when he was being escorted back to his ship heasked one of her sailors if his commander was not mad, for he could notbelieve that such a small ship as the Lady Nelson could ever accomplish avoyage of discovery. The vessels continued to sail in company towards the Cape of Good Hope. At 5 A. M. On the 7th land was seen from the Lady Nelson, the informationbeing signalled to her companion. Soon after daylight the Lion's Rump wasperceived south-east by east 1/2 east, distant five leagues. A littlelater the ships parted company. Lieutenant Grant had intended to anchorin Simon's Bay, but having discovered that the Lady Nelson had lost bothher main and after keels during the voyage, he sailed to Table Bay. Onhis arrival there Admiral Sir Roger Curtis, who was in command of thestation, gave orders for two new keels to be built immediately, and it isrecorded that so well did Mr. Boswell, the builder's assistant (thebuilder himself being absent) perform his task that the new keelsreflected the greatest credit on him. On the 16th, her repairs being completed, the Lady Nelson sailed forSimon's Bay and anchored there at 9 A. M. On the following day. Here wasfound H. M. S. Porpoise, also bound to New South Wales, which left the bayfor Sydney in advance of the Lady Nelson. During his stay LieutenantGrant met a relative, Dr. J. R. Grant, with whom he made severalexcursions into the interior of the colony. While the Lady Nelson was at the Cape of Good Hope a ship named theWellesley arrived from England with despatches from the Admiralty. Shehad narrowly escaped capture by a French man-of-war which gave chase toher after she had parted from her convoy, but fortunately she had beenable to beat off the enemy and to effect her escape. The instructionsbrought to Grant from the Duke of Portland directed him to sail to Sydneythrough Bass Strait instead of sailing round the South Cape of VanDiemen's Land (as Tasmania was then called). * (* The following extract is from the letter from the Duke of Portland toGrant:-- "WHITEHALL, 8th April, 1800. "SIR, Having received information from Port Jackson in New South Walesthat a navigable strait has been discovered between that country and VanDiemen's Land in latitude 38 degrees, it is His Majesty's pleasure thatyou should sail through the said strait on your way to Port Jackson. Iam, etc. , PORTLAND. ") No ship had yet sailed through this strait, which had been discoveredonly a little more than a year before by Dr. George Bass. Grant was alsoinstructed to take particular notice of the Australian coast, andespecially of the headlands visible on either side of the strait. Duringhis stay at the Cape numerous volunteers offered to accompany him toSydney, many from on board the ships in the bay. He says that he declinedthem all except a carpenter and an eccentric person named Dr. Brandt, whomight, he thought, be useful as a scientist, and who came on boardaccompanied by his baboon and his dog. To oblige Sir Roger Curtis, healso consented to take a Dane sentenced to transportation. On the 7th of October the Lady Nelson left the Cape and proceeded on hervoyage to New South Wales. Soon after leaving port bad weather set in andcontinued until the 12th, but, on the 14th at noon, when the ship was in38 degrees 1 minute latitude, the sea moderated and the bedding was againbrought up on deck while the cabins and berths were washed with vinegar. On the 24th the weather turned extremely cold with snow at times. A heavycross sea was running, which gave the little brig another opportunity ofdisplaying her good qualities. On the 28th at noon she was in 38 degrees54 minutes south, and towards evening on the following day sheencountered a heavy gale which obliged her commander to heave her to. Violent gusts with showers of sleet blew continually, and the seas wereso heavy that often in striking the bow they threw the ship so far overas "to expose her beam. " A drag-sail was then used in order to steadyher, and it answered remarkably well. The fore-top-sail yard was also goton deck and eased the ship wonderfully; fortunately little water wasshipped, as, owing to her small draught and flat bottom, she rose like apiece of cork on the top of every wave. On November 1st, in accordance with expectations, the island of Amsterdamwas sighted. The Lady Nelson steered a lonely course along its high, inaccessible shores, and beyond seeing that it was covered with grass, those on board could observe little. A flagstaff with a flag flying cameinto view, but not a single human being could be seen through thetelescope, although a party of sealers was known to visit the placefrequently. As the ship left the coast a boat's thwart with a piece ofrope wound round it was observed floating in the water, and its presencecaused some curiosity on board. Within the next few days a shoal ofwhales known to sailors as the Right whale was sighted, and later in themonth several other whales of various species with two threshers at workupon one of them were seen. On the 23rd Vancouver's track was crossed, and then Grant gave orders fora strict look-out for land to be kept from the masthead by night and day. Still the Australian coast remained invisible. On the 29th the sea was so calm that there was not a ripple on itssurface, and nothing worth noting occurred until December 1st, when alarge spermaceti whale passed, and at 3 P. M. A seal. At 5 P. M. Anotherappeared; this seal swam after the ship for some time, gazing after it ina curious way and shaking its head as it leapt from the water. OnDecember 2nd the birds which till then had followed the ship disappeared, and in the evening a horse-fly settled on the main-sail and showed thatland was near. The same night heavy squalls arose and blew until morning. At 8 A. M. , to the great joy of all on board, land was sighted from themasthead. It appeared to take the form of four islands, some six or sevenleagues distant. At noon the ship was in 38 degrees 10 minutes south andlongitude by account 142 degrees 30 minutes east, and the following notesare recorded in the journal of Lieutenant Grant, * as his first impressionof the land of New Holland (Australia). (* The Journals and logbooks arenot printed in extenso. A few passages of minor importance that in no wayaffect the general course of the narrative have, for want of space, beenomitted. ) THE LADY NELSON TO PORT JACKSON. "December 3rd, 1800. At daylight made all possible sail judging myself tobe in latitude of 38 degrees south. * (* (Note in log. ) Longitude workedback 141 degrees 20 minutes east. ) At 8 A. M. Saw the land from north toeast-north-east appearing like unconnected islands, being four in number, which on our near approach turned out to be two capes and two highmountains a considerable way inshore. One of them was very like the TableHill at the Cape of Good Hope, the other stands farther into the country. Both are covered with large trees as is also the land which is low andflat as far as the eye can reach. I named the first of these mountainsafter Captain Schanck and the other Gambier's Mountain. The first cape Icalled Northumberland, after His Grace the Duke of Northumberland. Another smaller, but very conspicuous jut of the land, which we plainlysaw when abreast of Cape Northumberland I named Cape Banks. * (* Grantnamed the two points first sighted Cape Northumberland and Cape Banks andthe two mountains behind Mount Gambier and Mount Schanck, names they allstill bear. Grant came in sight of Australia near to the present boundaryof Victoria and South Australia. ) When the former Cape bears north-westby west distant 8 or 9 miles, Schanck's Mountain loses its table form andappears like a saddle. There does not appear to be a harbour here, butvessels may find shelter under Cape Northumberland from north andnorth-north-west winds. The shore is in general a flat sandy beach, thesea at present making no breach upon it. "December 4th. As we stood along the shore steering eastward, the land asfar as we could see bearing south-east. Hauled close up for it. Thisforming a conspicuous cape, I named it Bridgewater* after the Duke ofthat title. (* This cape has been described since as having "a bald pateand shoulders besprinkled with white sand. " Cape Bridgewater forms withCape Northumberland another bend called Discovery Bay where the tidesmeet and create a very turbulent sea. The bay receives the waters of theRiver Glenelg. ) The shore is a sandy beach from where we made the land tothis cape, with bushes and large woods inland. Finding we could notweather Cape Bridgewater, got four oars on the lee side, which wereemployed all night. At daybreak in the morning we weathered the cape whenanother cape appeared bearing east by north about 15 or 16 miles distantforming with Cape Bridgewater a very deep bay and to appearance hadshelter for anchorage. The land appeared beautiful, rising gradually andcovered with wood. Being anxious to examine whether it was safe toventure in or not, I ordered a boat out and took two hands with me armed. "After getting inshore about five miles we found there was not anyshelter from southerly winds; the water was very deep and apparently soall the way in. We plainly saw several fires. At noon it was a matter ofgreat doubt whether we should not be forced to anchor--the bay being verydeep we could hardly clear it even with a steady breeze. Our latitude was38 degrees 20 minutes south. Cape Bridgewater then bearing north-west bywest 12 or 13 miles. I called the other Cape, Nelson, after the vessel. "December 5th. Saw several fires. This is a very deep bay and withsoutherly winds ought carefully to be avoided. Cape Nelson bears fromCape Bridgewater east-north-east 15 or 16 miles. The country isbeautiful, apparently a good soil, plenty of grass, and fine woods. Towards evening saw many fires a little way inland. Many seals andporpoises about to-day. At 5 A. M. Saw another cape not unlike the Deadmanin the English Channel: it runs a considerable way into the sea. When tothe west it appears like a long barn arched on the top with a high bluffand next the sea resembling the gable end of a house. I named the landSir William Grant's Cape. * (* Lieutenant Grant also called this cape, Cape Solicitor. This name did not survive--the cape being known as CapeSir W. Grant. ) Off this Cape are two small islands (the largest appearslike two) having two hummocks joined together by a neck of low land whichis not seen till pretty close. On approaching, the smaller island isseen--a little nearer the shore. These I called Lawrence's Islands afterCaptain Lawrence, one of the Elder Brethren of Trinity House. As theywill be an excellent mark for making this part. .. And Cape Northumberland, and being very remarkable, navigators will know where they are as theydraw abreast of them, the largest being to the Southwards. Its outer endappears like a square-topt tower, very high, with a white spot in themiddle of it. The other end is also very high. Lawrence's Islands bearfrom Cape Sir William Grant south-east or south-east by south 12 milesdistant and there appears no danger between them and the shore. The capenow loses its long form as the vessel gets to the eastward and itsparticular shape changes to a high bluff point, steep and inaccessible. Many fires were seen about this cape. The land from it runs to thenorthward as far as the eye can reach or discern from the masthead. "December 6th. At three made a considerable large island high andinaccessible on all sides. It was covered with grass, but no trees. Thisisland bears east-south-east from Cape Sir William Grant. By a goodobservation at noon following I made its latitude to be 38 degrees 29minutes south longitude. .. I made 144 degrees 40 minutes east. I namedthis island Lady Julia's Island in honour of Lady Julia Percy. Observedwe ran faster along the land than our distance by log gave us, probablyowing to drift from the East. "December 7th. At daylight we saw the land making a cape ahead; hauled upto clear it. This cape is due east-south-east with a moderate offing fromCape Sir William Grant, distant by log 70 miles. It is the easternpromontory of this deep and extensive bay. I named it Cape Albany Otway(now Cape Otway) in honour of William Albany Otway, Esquire, Captain inthe Royal Navy and one of the commissioners of the Transport Board. * (*Governor King says that Lieutenant Grant placed the longitude of CapeOtway in about "a degree and a half in error": he also made the land totrend away on the west side of Cape Otway to a bay in 38 degrees southlatitude which he named Portland Bay. ) Another very high and considerablecape I called Patton's Cape. I also distinguished the bay by the name ofPortland Bay in honour of His Grace the Duke of Portland. The land ishere truly picturesque and beautiful, resembling very much that aboutMount Edgcumbe, near Plymouth, which faces the Sound. It abounds in wood, very thick groves and large trees. It is moderately high, but notmountainous. We did not see any fires on it, probably from the shorebeing inaccessible and much surf breaking on it. From Cape Albany Otwayeast-north-east 10 or 12 miles is another point of land which appears asa vessel rounds the former cape to the east. It is rather high land witha clump of trees--as if regularly planted on its brow. Thinking we couldfind an anchorage, I bore in pretty close, but as we approached I foundseveral heavy breakers at least 6 miles from the shore, but not a rock tobe seen. I therefore hauled and named the point of land Point Danger. Ingetting to the eastward I could not find any shelter nor any place wherethere was a likelihood of anchoring but from the number of little jutsand low points of land further to the north and east I was determined totry if any such place could be got. "I never saw a finer country, the valleys appeared to have plenty offresh water meandering through them. At 11 A. M. I ordered the boats outmanned and armed, and went in search of a place to land or anchor in. Wegot within a cable's length and a half of the beach, but finding the surfbreaking heavy I deemed it not prudent to attempt a landing. The shorewas a sandy beach with small rocks interspersed here and there. In tryingfor soundings with a lead line none could be found, so that I reallythink the beach is steep also. I was very disappointed in being so nearand obliged to return on board without setting foot on this beautifulspot. It resembles the Isle of Wight as near as possible from the water. I called this part of the coast (which falls into the bottom of a smallbay from Cape Danger to the very low land), Wight's Land in honour ofCaptain Wight, R. N. , son-in-law to Commissioner Schanck. "December 8th. At one made sail to the eastward. At 8 P. M. Cape AlbanyOtway bearing west 18 or 20 miles we made a very high and lofty capecovered with trees to the water's edge as is all the country round it. From this cape the land breaks short round to the northward when I lostit. We had now a fair wind and might have done a great deal during thenight but I had my doubts whether this land which fell off to thenorthward should not have been followed and kept on board, as from asmall chart given to me by Sir Joseph Banks I found that, as far as thecoast had been surveyed the land trained off to the northward in the sameform nearly as it did here from Cape Patton--with this difference thatthe cape I allude to on the chart had several islands lying off it. Neither did the latitude exactly correspond and the land which it laiddown running to the northward was low and bushy, whereas that which I sawwas high with large forests of trees and no islands near it. I thereforechose the middle road. Made sail and ran 60 miles eastward judging if itwas a bay I should see the eastern extremity of it. At daylight, however, we could see nothing anywhere from the masthead, but the looming of theland we had left behind. We now bore up and ran north by west and at sixwe saw the land again ahead forming a very deep bay, which I could notsee the bottom of from the masthead. * (* (Note in log. ) Had Grantpenetrated this bay he would have made a great discovery for he wouldhave found Port Phillip. However, from the evidence contained in hischart he named the indentation in the coast Governor King's Bay. InGrant's narrative appears the following note by Governor King. "If such adeep bay as this actually exists it favours the idea of New South Walesbeing insulated by a Mediterranean sea. However, this the Lady Nelsonmust determine in the voyage she is now gone upon. P. G. K. ") At eight theland was observed bearing from us east-south-east extending farther tothe southward than I could see. Being now certain of our route I hauledup east-south-east and named this bay after Governor King. It is one ofthe longest we have yet met with. Cape Albany Otway forms the westernmostand the South Cape the easternmost headlands, the distance of about 120miles due east-south-east. "December 9th. At 4 P. M. Saw several islands bearing east-south-east. Themainland seemed to have an opening in it to the northward of them, whichwe stood in for, but I found it was another bay with low land. I namedthe northernmost cape after my friend, John Liptrap, Esquire, of London. The mainland now extended a considerable way to the southward withseveral islands off the cape. Judging this was the point of land welooked for, from the colour of the water, we sounded and had 50 fathomswith fine sand. South Cape distant 9 or 10 miles. The land abreast of theship appearing to be at no great distance, and it being quite calm I gotthe boats out and sent the launch ahead to tow. "Thinking I should have the pleasure of setting my foot in this finecountry, I set off in the gig with two hands ordering the vessel to towin after me and should a breeze spring up to get the launch in and standafter me for the bay. We pulled inshore for some islands lying off fromthe main at the western side of the South Cape. Making for the largest ofthem, which appeared to be the most fertile, on it I meant to have sownsome seeds which I took with me should I be able to land. The distance Icould not have believed was so great as it proved to be--at least 12miles from where we quitted the vessel, which we lost sight of beforegetting near the shore. Although we had not a breath of wind we found itimpossible to land on this side, the shore being very steep and a heavysurf running on it. Therefore as the ship was not in sight, and as it was2 P. M. , I judged it prudent to get back as soon as possible, which weeffected at 4 P. M. "In the morning it was calm with hot sultry weather. At noon I had a goodobservation in latitude 39 degrees 30 minutes south. The south part ofthe main or South Cape bearing north-west by north distant 20 miles andthe longitude 147 degrees 18 minutes from a good lunar observation takenon the 8th instant. All round the western side and even thus far south ofthe cape there are soundings of fifty fathoms, 45 and 40 white sand andshells. I called that space between Cape Liptrap and the South Cape, KingGeorge's Sound. " I have no doubt but that there is good anchorage in the bight to thenorthward of South Cape on the western side of which Cape Liptrap makesthe northern head. The land here is high and the mountains covered withwood. Cape Liptrap is low and flat as is the land in this Bight where Isuppose there is shelter. There is an island bearing from the westernpart of the South Cape--south, a little easterly, 12 miles from theshore. It is round and inaccessible on all sides. The above mentionedisland I called Rodondo from its resemblance to that rock well-known toall seamen in the West Indies. A set of breakers to the southward andeastward of that rock, on which, though calm, the sea breaks much, bearsfrom us north-north-west 1/2 west distant 6 miles. To the eastward there are five islands, the largest of which from itsresemblance to the Lion's Mount at the Cape of Good Hope I called SirRoger Curtis's Island, who then commanded on that Station. It is high andinaccessible on the north-west side and covered with small bushes at thetop. Two other islands like haycocks, only higher and more perpendicular, standing a considerable distance from each other, the largest of whichbore us south-east 1/4 south distant 16 or 17 miles and the othersouth-east by east about 10 miles. The latter is nearly shut in with thesouth-east end of Sir Roger Curtis's Island. The fourth is a rockstanding a considerable height out of the water nearly in a positionbetween the two haycocks or rather sugarloaf-like islands bearing fromsouth-east 1/4 south. The fifth is a high perpendicular barren cliffwhich, as we get almost abreast, looked like two islands joined togetherat the bottom, rising to a sharp edge ragged at the top and resembling alarge tower or castle. This island I named The Devil's Tower. An islandinshore was observed, it bore west-north-west distant 10 miles: I calledit Moncur's Island in compliment to Captain Moncur of the Royal Navy, andanother was visible bearing north by east 16 or 17 miles. Land, apparently an island to the southward and eastward we can just seefrom the masthead. It may be necessary to observe that these bearingswere taken at noon, and as it was then a stark calm the vessel was nearlystationary. By a good observation the latitude was 39 degrees 30 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 18 minutes east, calculated from lunar observation2 days before. But I take it to be correctly 147 degrees east from mymaking the Ramhead according to the best charts, therefore the bearingsare laid down in my chart from 147 degrees east. "Wilson's Promontory was so named by Mr. George Bass of H. M. S. Reliancewho was the first navigator that ascertained the real existence of astrait separating Van Dieman's Land from New Holland in his voyage in awhale boat from Sydney to Western Port. * (* "Mr. Bass places Wilson'sPromontory in 38 degrees 56 minutes south, Lieutenant Grant in 39 degrees17 minutes, and Mr. Black in 39 degrees 8 minutes. As Mr. Bass's latitudeis by computation from the whale boat, I think a preference may be givento Lieutenant Grant's position, as he had the advantage of a goodsextant. " P. G. K. ) Having made it I set off in one of my boats early inthe morning of the 10th* (* Grant now abandons the plan previously usedof heading each entry in the diary with the date of the day on which itwas written, and includes the dates of the various events in the text ofhis narrative. ) to endeavour to land on one of the islands lying off it;but after a long pull found the one I judged from its sloping aspect tobe the easiest for that purpose, a solid rock for a considerable heightwith surf too powerful for such a small boat as mine. After severalfruitless attempts I was obliged to abandon the idea, contenting myselfwith taking a view of it--and those contiguous. One of them was animmense rock; on one side perfectly round, with a large hole in the otherin the form of an arch with a breastwork rising high enough above thelevel of the sea to preclude the water from getting into it; the hollowappeared as scooped out by art instead of nature. I gave it the name ofthe Hole in the Wall and to the range of islands stretching along themain--the name of Glennie's Islands after Mr. George Glennie, aparticular friend of Captain Schanck's to whom I was under personalobligations. On the summit of all these islands there was a thick brushgrowing, whereas the land off Cape Liptrap already mentioned exhibited afine level country. The day being far spent in this survey I deemed itbest to get on board as the vessel was just visible with her head towardsus and becalmed. On the 12th we had fresh gales and cloudy weather, theshore we were running along was low and covered with thick brush trainingin a north-east direction which Messieurs Flinders and Bass have givenvery accurate descriptions of. " Of his coming to Sydney, Grant writes, "Governor King had taken theprecaution of leaving a letter for me at the Cape, describing theparticular marks for knowing the entrance of the Port, which no doubtsaved us much trouble. They consisted of a flagstaff erected on the SouthHead or left hand side of the entrance, and when vessels are seen theflag is hoisted. This land being high may be seen at a considerabledistance on a clear day. In the afternoon of the 16th saw the flagstaffas described by Governor King. At six in the evening we entered betweenthe Heads of Port Jackson. We found much swell in going in but were soonin smooth water and an excellent harbour, perhaps one of the finest inthe known world. As the wind was from the south and contrary to gettinginto Sydney Cove we were obliged to beat up to it, and at half-past sevenin the evening (on Tuesday December 16th) we let go our anchors in 8fathoms water after a voyage of 71 days from the Cape of Good Hope, andwith the satisfaction of being the first vessel that ever pursued thesame track across that vast ocean, as we have no traces of its being doneparticularly from the Island of Amsterdam, namely; between the degrees oflatitude 38 and 39 1/2 degrees south until the Lady Nelson made the coastof New Holland in latitude 38 degrees and steering to the eastward alonga tract of land nearly four degrees to the westward of any seen byMessieurs Flinders and Bass. " Following the example of many a first discoverer, he ends the account ofhis voyage with an expression of thankfulness to God for the protectionshown him "during the whole passage. " The Lady Nelson's arrival at Sydney gave great satisfaction to thecolony, and Colonel Collins remarks that a few such vessels were muchneeded there in order to obtain a necessary knowledge of the coast. Governor King naturally was most interested in Grant's description of hispassage through Bass Strait, and the news that the Lady Nelson had passeddeep indentations with beautifully wooded shores and rocky islands lyingoff them pleased everybody. But King did not conceal his disappointmentthat her commander had been unable to land anywhere or to penetrate thedeep bay called Governor King's Bay. The Admiralty had instructed theGovernor to have the whole of the south coast properly charted, and hedetermined that Grant should return in the Lady Nelson and thoroughlysurvey it. King also made an eye-sketch of the land, for he saw thatGrant's chart was imperfect. For that reason he sent Ensign Barrallier, of the New South Wales Corps, who was a competent surveyor, in the brig, and it is, chiefly, to Barrallier we are indebted for our earliest andmost authentic charts of the places which the Lady Nelson visited in thesecond voyage. Grant, however, had to contend with many difficulties in both voyages. First and foremost he had to face the risk and dangers of an entirely newcoast, and this without a companion ship. King was aware of this for hewrote to Banks: "It is my intention to despatch the Lady Nelson tocomplete the orders she first sailed with. I also hope to spare a vesselto go with her which will make up for a very great defect which is theutter impossibility of her ever being able to beat off a lee shore. " Itis, therefore, well to remember that although Grant did not enter PortPhillip he was the first to see the indentation in the coast within whichPort Phillip lay hidden. Grant had been instructed by the Admiralty to join H. M. S. Supply atSydney. On his arrival he found this ship laid up as a hulk and unfit forsea. He says that he felt completely adrift until Governor King invitedhim to continue in his position as commander of the Lady Nelson but, inthe colonial service and on less pay. As there was no one in the colonythen fitted for the post, and as he did not wish the service to sufferfrom delay, he accepted the offer. Matters being thus arranged he wasre-appointed to the Lady Nelson, his new commission dating from January1st, 1801. On January 11th Captain Black, from the Cape, arrived in Sydney in theHarbinger, having followed the Lady Nelson through Bass Strait. On hisway through the strait Black met with an island which he named KingIsland in honour of the Governor. Mr. Reid, of the Martha, however, hadfirst discovered it in 1799. The Margaret, Captain Buyers, from England, was the third vessel to sailthrough Bass Strait, arriving in Sydney on February 7th, 1801. Buyersfell in with the Australian coast about Cape Bridgewater eastward ofwhere the Lady Nelson had made it and westward of the point reached bythe Harbinger. Governor King allowed Grant the use of Garden Island in Sydney Harbourfor the purpose of raising vegetables for his crew, an article of diet ofimportance to them; and here in "the shell of a tolerable house" wasinstalled Dr. Brandt, who, with his dog and baboon, had joined the LadyNelson at the Cape of Good Hope. The chart (Illustration 2. ) is a copy of one published in the narrativeof Grant's voyage, and his autograph has been reproduced from a logbookat the Record Office. [Jas Grant autograph facsimile. ] CHAPTER 2. THE LADY NELSON RETURNS TO EXPLORE BASS STRAIT: VISITS JERVIS BAY ANDWESTERN PORT. Governor King, in addition to ordering Grant to return and survey thedeep bay which he had passed in Bass Strait between Cape Sir WilliamGrant and Wilson's Promontory, instructed him to ascertain the correctlatitude of the promontory and of the islands lying off it. He was alsotold to survey King Island, then to sail to King George's Sound and, inreturning to Wilson's Promontory, to make a general survey of the wholeof the south coast, going to the head of every inlet as far as possible. Dr. Bass, when discovering Bass Strait, had rounded the promontory andentered a harbour which, as Grant has told us, he named from its relativesituation--Western Port. In his journal Grant says that it was reservedfor the Lady Nelson to ascertain accurately the extent of Bass Strait, but he did not carry out the whole of King's instructions on this secondvoyage although his examinations of Jervis Bay and of Western Port provedof great value and added much to the knowledge of both harbours. Besides Ensign Barrallier, Mr. Caley, botanist, four soldiers of the NewSouth Wales Corps and two natives (Euranabie and his wife Worogan) wentwith the expedition, and Mr. John Murray joined the ship as first mate*(* Formerly Master's Mate on board H. M. S. Porpoise. ). The Bee, of 15tons, formerly a ship's launch, was also fitted out to accompany her. The two ships left Port Jackson on March 8th, Lieutenant Grantparticularly wishing to make the examination of Jervis Bay* (* JervisBay, named in honour of John Jervis, Lord St. Vincent, was discovered byLieutenant Richard Bowen in 1791. ) on his way southwards in order "tosecure a harbour" if obliged to run out of Bass Strait. The Bee, however, did not stay long with the Lady Nelson. On the morning of the 9th theMaster hove to and informed Grant that he had shipped much water and thatthe sea was too heavy for him. Before sending the vessel back to PortJackson Grant wrote a letter to the Governor at Sydney stating the reasonof her return. He placed the letter between two flat pieces of lead, andrunning close to the Bee threw it on board. The Lady Nelson thencontinued her voyage, and at 4 P. M. On the 10th sighted the north head ofJervis Bay bearing west-south-west 8 or 9 miles distant. At seven o'clockon the following morning the first mate was sent in the boat to look foran anchorage, and returned at nine with one of the natives, bringing theinformation that there was good holding ground in the southernmost covebetween an island and the main. At half-past ten the Lady Nelson anchoredin this cove in four fathoms water, fine sandy bottom, having run over ashallow some four cables' length which was easily distinguished by thecolour of the water. The native who came on board was a middle-aged man, stout and muscular, who showed no symptoms of fear. It was evident thathe had seen white men before and he often repeated the words "blanket"and "woman. " Grant tells us that he was much surprised at several articles on boardparticularly the compasses in the binnacle. "On my conducting him downinto the cabin and placing him before a looking-glass he expressed wonderby innumerable gestures, attitudes and grimaces. He narrowly examined itto see if any one was behind it; and he did not seem satisfied till Iunscrewed it from the place it was fastened to. The sound of a smallbugle horn had a very great effect on him, and he endeavoured, byapplying it to his own mouth, to make it sound, but without effect. .. Thisstranger whom I had placed near the natives of Sydney, sat by them, without saying a word, for about half an hour, soon after the expirationof which time, great familiarity took place betwixt them. It appearedevident to me that. .. The stranger's attention was directed to the woman, though like the rest of her countrywomen, she was, according to ournotions, far from being possessed of any beauty: however, not only thisman, but many other natives who visited us at this place, thought hervery handsome; nor was I surprised at this when I saw some of the femaleshere. .. It appeared as if they did not readily understand each other. .. "Before we got to an anchor several canoes came round us, in one of whichwas an old man whose hair had become perfectly white with age, which, joined to his long white beard, made him a very interesting figure. Thenatives appeared to pay the old man great respect and obedience of whichI saw more afterwards. .. I admitted some of the natives on board but theold man could not be prevailed on to be of the party. They all testifiedmuch surprise at what they saw. " The natives of Jervis Bay seemed to be stronger and more athletic thanthose at Sydney, and in the management of their canoes--they differedfrom any Grant had ever seen, "particularly in paddling, sometimes makinguse of an oval piece of bark, and at others, of their hands, sending thecanoe along very swiftly by either means. When paddling with the handthey were apt to throw more or less water into the canoe, which, with asmall calabash, they dexterously threw out by a backward motion of theother hand without turning their heads. " At one end of their canoes heobserved two or three wooden pins which he thought were designed tosteady their fish-gigs or to receive the heads of their spears. He tells how the sailors clipped their beards: "From observing thesmoothness of our chins, they all expressed a desire to have theirs thesame, which some of my people instantly set about, clipping them closewith scissors. Not seeing any of these people painted, I was desirous ofknowing if they were addicted to it. I accordingly got some red paintwhich as soon as one of them saw, he immediately made signs for me to rubhis nose with it. About our settlements they are often seen with theirnoses painted with a red gum. They likewise form a circle nearly roundtheir eyes with a whitish clay. The latter, it is said, is by way ofmourning for the death of a friend. .. The women also paint their nosesred, and their breasts with a streak of red and white alternately. Havingoccasion to leave the deck for a while, one of my young men (who hadcontrived to get hold of some of the vessel's paint pots) verydeliberately painted the man (whose nose I had rubbed with red paint)with different colours from head to foot while he grinned his approbationat his own motley appearance. His comrades seemed to enjoy it as much ashe did and they quitted the vessel in great glee. " "The Lady Nelson lay abreast of a fine sandy beach suitable for haulingthe seine, and the commander's party, which included Mr. Barrallier andthe Sydney native, went on shore. A number of blacks immediatelysurrounded Euranabie and began to converse with him, using many wordsthat seemed to resemble the Sydney dialect, such as 'Bail, ' which Grantsays signified 'No, ' and 'Maun' to take off or carry away. These natives, when the seine was hauled, showed their delight by gathering round andgiving their assistance unsolicited. A few large whiting were caught, andexcept three that were kept back for the white party, were distributedamong them. "Shortly afterwards, other natives arrived who also wished to have somefish, so the nets were cast a second time, and the whole of the catch washanded to them without division. " Their number was so considerable that it was believed that many more wereconcealed in the bushes. .. They were all perfectly naked except one youngfellow who had a bunch of grass fastened round his waist which came upbehind like the tail of a kangaroo. He was very merry, and from hisgestures, possessed a keen sense of humour. "He would throw himself intoa thousand antic shapes, and afforded no small entertainment. " "Having sent the boat on board with the seine, " continues Grant, "I wasanxious to get some kangaroos which, from the appearance of the shore, Imade no doubt were to be found in plenty. I made signs to the natives forthat purpose, and one of them offered his services. We walked towards theend of the beach we were then on, and entered the woods. We saw severalparrots and smaller birds of beautiful plumage. Mr. Barrallier fired atone of the latter, which so frightened our guide that he took to hisheels and ran back to his companions. " In this excursion the explorers were impressed by the silent grandeur ofthe forest trees: there was no underwood, but there was excellent grass, from which sprang coveys of quail, or partridges of New Holland. The trees in general were the tall she-oak so common in the neighbourhoodof Sydney. * (* Casuarina suberosa, commonly known as Beefwood. ) Grantreturned to the beach and went on board to dinner. In the afternoon heagain made a party for the shore, consisting of Mr. Barrallier, Mr. Caley, botanist, and two soldiers. They entered the woods at the sameplace as before, intending to make a circuit back to the boat. Again, beautiful birds were seen, among them, some cockatoos which wereperfectly black "excepting the breast and a few feathers on the wingwhich were yellow. " They were so shy that no one could get near them. Other birds were killed--whose flesh, when cooked, was very palatable;that of the parrot resembled our pigeon in taste--"possibly because theyfeed on seeds of wild plants. " According to Grant, "no country in the world abounds with a greatervariety of insects. We saw numbers buzzing about the trees. .. Havingpursued our walk inland we fell in with a swampy land in a valley withmuch brush wood; a rivulet of excellent fresh water ran briskly throughit, emptying itself in the sea near to where I had ordered our boat tohaul the seine. We found the track of the natives and fell in withseveral of their gunnies or habitations. These are constructed with a fewboughs stuck up to screen them from the wind; bones of beasts, birds andfish were lying about them. On the return to the boat, Mr. Barralliershot a large hawk. Our fishing-party had caught some fish, and would havebeen very successful, but two sharks got into the seine and tore it inseveral places: they were both brought on shore, one measuring seven feetin length. The liver I ordered to be carried on board, to be boiled forthe oil and used in our lamp. "On the 11th of March, the wind still hanging to the south, I took somehands on shore to cut a boatload of wood and fill our watercasks. .. Messieurs Barrallier and Caley, with two soldiers, accompanied meon another excursion. We took another direction inland. .. But saw nokangaroos. We met with two small lagoons and several streams of goodwater running through the thickest part of the woods. In this excursionwe saw the Laughing Bird so called from the noise it makes resemblinglaughter. * (* The Giant Kingfisher or Kookaburra. ) "On our return to the boat we fell in with a spot of ground whichappeared to have been selected by the natives for the purposes offestivity. It was a small eminence having no habitation near. We countedthe marks of fifteen different fires that had been employed in cookingfish and other eatables, the bones of which were strewed about. Amongthem we picked up part of a human skull--the os frontis with the socketsof the eyes and part of the bones of the nose still attached to it. Alittle distance from where we found this we discovered a part of theupper jaw with one of the molars or back teeth in it, also one of thevertebrae of the back having marks of fire which the others had not. "The grass was much trodden down, and many of the bones of the animalseaten appeared fresh. .. I brought off the human bones and on getting onboard showed them to Euranabie. Finding two of the natives from the shorein the vessel, I desired him to ask them whether these bones belonged toa white man or not, and if they had killed and eaten him. I was anxiousto have this cleared up, as the ship Sydney Cove from India to PortJackson had been wrecked about twelve months before to the southward andit was reported that some of the crew were killed by the natives nearthis place. "* (* The Sydney Cove from Bengal to New South Wales waswrecked on Preservation Island, Tasmania, on 8th February, 1797. Herlong-boat was equipped and despatched on 27th February to Sydney, but theboat filled and went to pieces at a spot called Ninety Mile beach. Out ofthe crew of seventeen, who started to walk to Port Jackson, only threelived to reach their destination--some dying of fatigue and hunger, theothers were murdered by the natives. ) Euranabie, who spoke English, made inquiries, and a soldier whounderstood the Sydney dialect, also endeavoured to extract the truthregarding the bones, from the two black fellows, who said that they werethose of a white man that had come in a canoe from the southward wherethe ship "tumble down, " meaning that it had been wrecked. LieutenantGrant also questioned Worogan, and was informed that "the bush natives(who appeared to be a different tribe of people from those that lived bythe seaside) did eat human flesh. " He now prepared to leave the port. "On the 12th, we got into a cleanberth for getting under weigh, but in the morning the wind being variableand light we were prevented sailing. I went on shore with Mr. Barrallierto make a survey of the cove we were lying in. When preparing to returnto the vessel we were joined by several natives who appeared anxious togo on board with us. Two of these were strangers who signified that theyhad come a long way to see us and that they were very hungry. They wereboth young, stout men with longer hair than the natives generally. "In the afternoon. .. It was needless to attempt sailing till the windabated. I therefore proposed to survey. .. The western side of the islandwhich lies in the mouth of the harbour and shelters the cove fromeasterly winds. This island I named Ann's Island, in compliment to Mrs. King, the wife of the Governor. "In putting the surveying instruments into the boat the chain was foundmissing; we were of opinion it had been left on shore by the soldiers whocarried it in measuring the distances. A boat with one of them was senton shore. After a fruitless search they were returning when a canoe putoff from the island with a man in it who held up the chain in his hand. The boat's crew brought him on board to me. On looking at the chain itwas made up in the usual way. .. And tied with a piece of string; but inundoing it I found that the natives had untwisted every bend of the wireswhich contained the brass markers and after taking them off bent thewires back into their original form, with this difference, that theyplaced the end which is carried in the hand in the middle. This was thefirst instance I had experienced of their pilfering anything and I didnot chuse to proceed to extremities. I gave the native a blanket and somebiscuits and the mate gave him an old hat. "We got into the boat to prosecute the intention of surveying theisland. .. The native with us, towing his canoe astern. On landing we werejoined by a great number of natives who seemed glad that the man had beenrewarded for carrying back the chain. The blanket attracted their noticemuch, the use of which they appeared to know. The old man whom I formerlymentioned was among them; he made signs for me to sit down at a distancefrom the rest and by pointing to his white beard signified a wish to haveit cut off, which I immediately did with a pair of scissors, and heexpressed much satisfaction at being rid of it. " Observing some of their women in the distance and wishing to see whatthey were like, signs were made to the old man to ask them to comenearer. He called to them, whereupon they seated themselves close to thevisitors. They seemed nervous as the white men approached them, but whenthe old chief spoke to them sat down again composedly. One of them hadfastened to the neck of her child a brass marker which had been takenfrom the stolen chain. Grant says: "They examined my buttons and the headof my dirk and seemed much surprised at my watch chain which I began tothink they had an inclination for, but I was soon relieved on pulling outmy watch. They did not seem to like it and talked very gravely amongthemselves; they were all anxious to listen to the noise of the watch, yet they would pull their ear from it and look at the watch with symptomsof fear. .. And then return to it again. I attempted to point out the useof it and pointed to the sun, but I am led to think that they believed itto be something we worshipped. The old man particularly pointed to thesun and appeared anxious to know more of it. " A boy about twelve years of age who was a little deformed, carried asharp pointed stick in his hand which was the only weapon of defence seenbut it was soon perceived that they had weapons not far distant. The LadyNelson's commander by signs told the chief that he wanted fresh water. "The old native readily understood and getting up made me follow him tothe side of a hill where some water had settled, but it not appearing tobe from a spring, I expressed my desire to be taken to a rivulet. Anative stept forward, as I supposed, to show me, but on my following himhe turned back and left us. Thinking from the direction we were in thatwater was not far distant I took one of my men with me to whom I gave myfowling-piece to carry. .. We saw another native a little way before us towhom I signified what I wanted. " As Grant approached, this native, by asudden jerk of the foot, raised and caught up in his hand a spear; theweapon rose within six inches of the Lieutenant's face and caused him toturn and grasp his gun from his attendant. The native, however, merelyput the spear on his shoulder and walking leisurely towards a cliff stoodlooking at the sea. It was not supposed anything hostile was meant butthe action showed that the natives had weapons concealed. "At 5 A. M. Of the 13th, we weighed anchor with light variable airs andgot clear out of the cove by ten, when we found a moderate breeze fromnorth-east, and we made all possible sail to the southward. " Grant then gives his opinion of Jervis Bay, a place destined to be muchmore important in the future of the continent, as it will serve as portto Canberra, the seat of the Australian Government. "It is worthy ofremark that Jarvis's Bay* (* i. E. Jervis Bay. ) or sound is large, commodious and easy of access, affording shelter from all winds andhaving room for upwards of 200 sail of ships with plenty of wood andwater. When this bay comes to be more known, it will be found eligiblefor vessels bound to Port Jackson after a long passage from England. .. Andwill be the means of saving many lives. " From Jervis Bay the Lady Nelson continued her voyage southwards and, onthe 19th of March, off Point Hicks, she met with a strange sail whichproved to be the ship Britannia, Captain Turnbull, from England, boundfor the whale fishery. She was going to Sydney to refit, and thus gaveGrant an opportunity to send a letter to Governor King. He wrote asfollows: POINT HICKS, NORTH BY EAST 12 MILES. "18th March, 1801. "SIR, --Seeing a vessel to windward, and judging you would wish to hear ofus. .. I sit down to write you a few lines before she joins us, as Isuppose she is bound to Sydney, and from her situation, I presume she isone more who has come through the Straits. The Bee, no doubt, has arrivedlong ere now. I, on the Tuesday morning after she parted, got safely intoJarvis's Bay, and sailed early on Friday with the wind at the north-eastwhich only lasted 30 hours so that we have been nearly 5 days beating insight of Cape Howe and could not weather it, the wind being now south butmoderate. "During our stay in Jarvis's Bay we were by no means idle, which you willbe convinced of, I hope, when we arrive. The weather I have had these 5days convinces me that the Bee would have been a very great retard tous. .. For the sea here, when it blows hard (owing, I presume, to thecurrent setting strong against the wind) makes it run confused and breakmuch. .. Mr. Barrallier has got nearly well of his seasickness and we havehad the azimuth compass to work, which he now understands thoroughly. Murray is well, and all my people are comfortable and happy. --I am etc. JAS. GRANT. " On their parting, the Britannia steered to Sydney, while the Lady Nelsonstood to the southward, meeting with a southerly wind and being soretarded that it was 8 A. M. On the 21st before Wilson's Promontory wassighted. When close to the rock which he had named Rodondo, Grantobserved the latitude to be south 39 degrees 4 minutes. * (* The latitudeof Wilson's Promontory is 39 degrees 7 minutes 55 seconds and thelongitude 146 degrees 25 minutes east. In the log, Lieutenant Grant givesthe former as 38 degrees 59 minutes and longitude 146 degrees 6 minuteseast. ) From Wilson's Promontory, the land sloped to the north-north-westas far as eye could reach, becoming low and level towards Cape Liptrapand from Glennie's Islands. The Lady Nelson now followed the coasttowards Western Port. On the way her commander named a point CapePaterson in honour of Colonel Paterson of the New South Wales Corps. He thus describes the manner of his coming to Western Port: "At 4 P. M. Ofthe 21st we had sight of the island which forms the south head of WesternPort having the likeness of a snapper's head or horseman's helmet. Byeight we were up with it. On opening the entrance of the port I found twosmall islands situated about three quarters of a mile from the South Headwith apparently a good passage between them and the island forming theharbour. From its likeness, as above mentioned, to a snapper's head, Inamed it Snapper Island. * (* The Phillip Island of Bass which even atthat time was called Phillip Island, a name it is still known by. Itseastern extremity resembled the head of a snapper and was known asSnapper Head. Bass himself had, in discovering the Strait, noticed theresemblance. ) It falls in a high clay bluff down to the water's edge. Thesmall islands lying off it were covered with seals, numbers of which, onour approach, precipitated themselves into the sea, covering the passage, while others remained on the rocks making a very disagreeable noise, something like the grunting of pigs. They were of a large size, many ofthem being nearly equal to a bullock. I judged them to be of that speciesof seal called by fishermen sea elephants, accordingly I named theseislands, Seal Islands. I sent a boat ahead to sound. .. And found betweenthe Seal Islands and the South Head, 12, 9, 6, 5 and 3 1/2 fathoms ofwater which last was shoaled in mid channel. This passage will shortenthe distance when there is a leading wind but standing round to thewestward of Seal Islands there will be found sufficient room for anynumber of vessels to beat in. Mr. Bass, when he visited this place in thewhale boat, entered the port by the eastern passage which is much thesmallest, and coasting the western shore, from whence he made hisremarks. It is probable that these islands, lying so close to the westernside of him, did not show themselves to be detached. .. It had rainedconstantly and heavily all night and. .. We could not see any greatdistance from the vessel therefore I kept the lead going as she worked upthe harbour. " At half-past five she was "brought to" opposite to a sandy point which henamed Lady Nelson's Point "as a memorial of the vessel as she was thefirst decked one that ever entered this port. .. Mr. Barrallier went onshore with the second mate. They saw black swans and redbills, an aquaticbird so called whose back is black, breast white, beak red and feet notfully webbed. On Sunday 22nd or, according to our sea account the 23rd atnoon, I went with two of our crew in the smallest boat to search for ariver or stream described by Mr. Bass. " In proceeding along the shore Grant passed a muddy flat, and fell in withan island* (* The log says this island bore north-north-west, 2 miles. )"separated from the main by a very narrow channel at low water. ". .. Onthis he landed. "The situation of it was so pleasant that this togetherwith the richness of the spot made me conceive the idea that it wasexcellently adapted for a garden. " The island was called Churchill'sIsland after John Churchill, Esquire, of Dawlish, in the county of Devon, who, when the Lady Nelson left England, had given her commander vegetableseeds, the stones of peaches, and the pips of several sorts of apples, telling him "to plant them for the future benefit of our fellow-men, bethey countrymen, Europeans or savages. " Captain Schanck had also suppliedhim with seeds. A very rare apple, having seldom more than one pip ineach fruit, was named by Grant "Lady Elizabeth Percy's Apple, " because, "it was owing to her Ladyship's care and attention in preparing thepepins that I was enabled to introduce it. " On this day several good observations were obtained. Grant placed WesternPort in latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south and (by chronometer) in 146degrees 19 minutes east of Greenwich. He did not, however, discover thestream for which he was looking. On the following morning the second mate(Mr. Bowen) tried to find the stream but was also unsuccessful. Duringhis absence the Commander explored the banks of a creek "which openedabreast of the vessel" and Barrallier and Murray surveyed the harbourwhile Caley searched for new plants wandering as far as Snapper Island. Barrallier and Grant also made collections but Governor King afterwardswrote that "Caley received everything they found--and refused to give upor part with a duplicate. " Wet weather set in until the 25th. The day following, search was againmade for fresh water, and Grant went up the creek which was found toterminate in a salt marsh. The trees on the bank were not large but theunderwood was thick. He penetrated inland for some distance and saw spots"as if cleared by manual labour. .. Covered with good tender grass, " adelightful sight to him. The open land had the appearance of beingfrequently overflowed and he thought it was well adapted for the purposeof fattening cattle; numbers of black swans and other water-fowl wereseen in the creek, the length of which was about two miles and a half, its waters, which were salt, ended in a small run some 12 feet inbreadth. It was Bowen, the second mate, who at length found thefresh-water stream originally discovered by Bass, and on the same day hecaptured a couple of cygnets one of which was presented to the Governorat Sydney. On 27th March, Murray accompanied by Barrallier and Caley set out toexplore the stream. They went up its windings as far as possible passingno less than 42 short reaches. Its breadth at the entrance was about halfa cable's length and at the farthest part reached by the boat not morethan 18 or 20 feet, the passage being there impeded by trees lying acrossit. While his party were exploring, the commander with Euranabie madeexcursions along the shore to the mouth of the harbour. "The beach wascovered with shells, many of them beautiful and some of them entirely newto me. I observed another creek not so large as the former which I havedescribed but having its entrance quite filled up. .. So that the sea couldnot enter it. .. The land in general was above the level of the sea and thesoil was in some places light and black, in others a red clay. We fell inwith a rocky point about which I observed playing in the water a numberof fishes called salmon in New Holland. I expressed a desire to thenative of having some. .. And no sooner expressed my wish than I missed mycompanion from behind me. I halloed. .. Upon which he instantly presentedhimself from the wood with a small stick in his hand. Asking for my knifehe presently sharpened one end to a point and then, stripping himself, heleaped from one point of the rock to another until he met with anopportunity of striking a fish which he did, the stick penetrating rightthrough it. I could not but admire the keenness of his sight and hisability to preserve the steadiness of his position, standing as he did onthe rough edge of a sharp rock, the sea washing above his knees, his eyesintent on the fish, very difficult to strike from the smallness of itssize, presented to him in a narrow back. Though I pressed him to take thefish several times he constantly refused it but accepted some tobacco. " Next day Grant went on shore at Churchill's Island with a party to cleara space for a garden. Some twenty rods were burnt after the larger treeshad been felled. The soil on the island was found to be rich and looseand easy to dig. On the 29th Murray was sent to ascertain particulars"respecting the entrance of the port and with regard to Seal Islands" onwhich he was instructed to land. Barrallier accompanied him. Soon aftertheir departure bad weather set in which prevented their landing. Theyeventually anchored off a sandy beach which appeared to have no surf, butwere suddenly surprised by a heavy swelling sea that rolled upon it, followed by another which filled the boat, upsetting it upon the beach. Fortunately no lives were lost though all "were immersed in the waterfrom which the native Euranabie. .. First escaped to shore. " Theprovisions, however, and the ammunition were lost or spoiled. At turn oftide they launched the boat and returned on board. A black swan and fourducks, which they had shot on their way out, afforded a savoury meal forthose in the ship. On the 31st the commander went up the freshwater river with Mr. Barrallier. * (* This river had already been seen by Mr. Bowen. ) At nightthey encamped on its banks when there came on an exceeding heavy storm ofrain with thunder and lightning and high wind. They traced a branch ofthe river on the right as far as their boat could go and then followedits course on shore along the bank and found it was fed by the greaterriver only. This carried them inland and they discovered marks of firesmade by the natives. The log book records that they met none of theblacks at any place though there were native dog tracks in abundance. "Towards the end of this branching stream the country appeared to affordplots of very rich pasture. At some considerable distance the land roseto a height, and being covered with large trees which appeared to havebeen shattered by storms had for this reason obtained the name of MountRugged. We marched pretty far inland and found the country everywherefree from inundations and exhibiting a very picturesque appearance. Theday was remarkably fine but in the woods the air was close anddisagreeably sultry. My people had killed a small black snake. .. The samekind. .. Is common about Sydney. We pursued our course up the river and Mr. Barrallier completed his survey. " The water in the river was found to be good and perfectly sweet, and thecasks were filled. Among the birds seen was a bell-bird which has "noremarkable plumage but a note not unlike the tinkling of a bell, so thatwhen a number of these birds are collected together the noise they makeis similar to that made by the bells of a team of horses. " Thelaughing-bird (whose note can only be compared to the ha! ha! ha! of ahearty laughing companion) was the first to salute the explorers in themorning. The whistling duck, so called because of the whistling noisemade with its wings when flying, was shot here, and a grey parrot wascaught alive. Mr. Barrallier shot a rare cockatoo. * (* It was stuffed andafterwards given to General Davies, R. A. , by Governor King. ) The wetweather afterwards gave little chance of meeting with birds, and theexplorers made their way through the woods until they reached anextensive level country. This plain extended out of their sight on theone side and on the other was bounded by hills. Paths beaten down bykangaroos crossed and recrossed it. The face of the country was almosteverywhere level and productive, free from swamp and secured frominundation. Grant thus describes the journey back to the ship: "We returned to theriver-side and ordered the boat to drop lower down a few miles through aforest of stately timber trees. I had a few of them cut down and broughton board. .. I brought Governor King specimens of light woods and a speciesof sassafras discovered by my second mate. .. On our way down the river westopped at the place where we had passed the preceding night and foundour fire still burning. To this spot we gave the name of The HalfwayHouse, being halfway up the river. " The commander now revisited Churchill's Island: "I found my people hadcleared the spot I had laid out for a garden, and that there was nothingwanting but to prepare the ground to receive such seeds as I shouldchoose to plant. .. It was no easy matter. .. For we had neither hoe norspade with us. .. However, we were in possession of a coal shovel which, though it was thin and much worn, served the purpose. "My men, who slept on the ground they had cleared. .. In a hut built forthe occasion, informed me that one of their comrades was awakened out ofhis sleep by some animal that seemed to be gnawing his hair. He supposedit to be the bandicoot rat. I sent on board for a dog which we hadbrought with us from Sydney. This dog remained with the people on theisland, and, as they reported to me, was one night engaged with someanimal apparently of equal strength, for it brought him to the ground andmade him howl. .. The ground was now prepared and I sowed my several sortsof seeds, wheat, Indian corn, and peas, some grains of rice and somecoffee berries; and I did not forget to plant potatoes. With the trunksof the trees I felled I raised a block house of 24 feet by 12 which willprobably remain some years, the supporters being well fixed in theearth. " Full of enthusiasm regarding his visit in general, Grant is more so aboutChurchill's Island: "I scarcely know a place I should sooner call minethan this little island. " And he also tells how he planted the stones offruit trees round the hut which his men had built there. Of the traces ofiron seen, he adds: "We turned up a few stones and some interspersed withveins of iron ore, indeed so rich in metal that they had a visible effecton the needle of our compass; stones of a like kind are found aboutSydney. " In the pages of his journal and also of his log he describesvery minutely the manner in which European seeds were first sown in thesoil of the British colony of Victoria. That they were successfullyplanted we learn from a subsequent page in Murray's log when he, incommand of the Lady Nelson, visited the same spot. To return to the narrative. "On the 12th* (* In the narrative, through aprinter's error, this date appears as 21st. ) of April Mr. Bowen, whileseeking for water in the ship's launch, discovered near the mouth of thefreshwater river part of a canoe which had sunk near the mouth. Hebrought it back to the ship together with two paddles and some fishingline. " The canoe differed greatly from those made by the natives of PortJackson, being framed out of timber, and instead of being tied togetherat the ends "was left open, the space being afterwards filled with grassworked up with strong clay. " At the termination of the voyage, it was handed over, along with theother specimens collected, to Governor King. The Lady Nelson now changed her berth and moored close by the oppositeshore, "in order to be near a small island lying in the opening of theextensive arms described by Mr. Bass of which this port has two branchingout to the northward. " Grant named this island Margaret Island in honourof Mrs. Schanck who had given him several articles which proved useful onboard the Lady Nelson. The tide ebbing very fast, the brig was soon in shoal water, but thebottom being a soft mud and the weather calm there was no danger to beapprehended, yet, says Grant: "As I am no friend to vessels being on theground by carrying out a hawser I soon hauled her off and brought yet hernearer to Margaret's Island. We found this island to be in general flat, but well covered with wood. Here we deposited some seeds but did not findthe soil equally rich with that of Churchill's Island. " Having lost someof their drinking water, the Commander writes: "Luckily I heard thebullfrog, which is common in New South Wales, and I made towards thethicket from whence his croaking issued and there found a present supply. This arm reminded me of the appearance of Porchester Lake when the tideis out. Indeed the entire view of Western Port has no small resemblanceto Spithead and Portsmouth Harbour. On the 17th we got under weigh and atnight brought up in 12 fathoms water with rather a foul bottom. In themorning we discovered a sand shoal whereon the waves were breaking veryheavily close to us. .. We shifted our berth and brought up in a small nookor bay which I named Elizabeth Cove in honour of Miss Elizabeth King, daughter of Governor King, then at Sydney. " The greater part of Grant'ssurvey of Western Port was completed by April 22nd, but the Lady Nelsonwas detained there by bad weather until the 29th, when, at break of day, she weighed and stood out of the port, passing to the westward of SealIslands. Grant then proceeded to make a survey of the coast from Western Porteastward as far as Wilson's Promontory, which he says he carried out fora distance of seventy miles, but winter being now advanced little morecould be done in the way of surveying, and as the wet weather wasprejudicial to the instruments, he resolved to make the best of his wayto Sydney; bad weather caused the ship to put into Botany Bay, but sheeventually arrived on May 14th, 1801. On his return to Sydney Grant refers to the good health of those onboard: "I had not from the time of my departure a sick man among myship's company, one man only excepted, whose skull had been fractured. "He also tells us that while in Botany Bay he had the satisfaction ofreceiving a letter from Governor King, in which he expressed himself wellpleased with what had been done. We know that the Governor was keenly disappointed that Grant had failedfor the second time to explore Governor King's Bay and to fulfil otherduties which had been expected of him. The voyage, however, must have hadits compensations, as Barrallier was able not only to survey Jervis Bayand Western Port (the map of the former is not at the Admiralty), butalso to obtain much of the information contained in the combined chart ofhis "discoveries made in Bass Strait up to March 1802, " reproduced above. CHAPTER 3. COLONEL PATERSON AND LIEUTENANT GRANT SURVEY HUNTER RIVER. During the month of May the Lady Nelson became more closely associatedwith the town of Sydney, with whose fortunes her own were ever afterwardsidentified. * (* The Lady Nelson was borne as a contingent expense of thecolony from the time of her arrival at Sydney until the 16th October, 1802, then as tender to H. M. S. Buffalo by order of the Admiralty. SeeHistorical Records of New South Wales volume 4 page 901. ) From Sydney sheset forth on her many voyages of exploration, and to Sydney she returned. In many an old print she is depicted lying at anchor there almostalone--a small ship in a great harbour--with the Union Jack flying at herstern, and in the small Sydney newspapers of those early times hercomings and goings are recorded, and her discoveries related with thekeenest interest. By the Governor's command May 28th, 1801, being the King's birthday, wasobserved as a holiday. It was a memorable occasion, for on that day theRoyal Proclamation announcing the Union between Great Britain and Irelandwas read in public by the Provost Marshal. At sunrise the old Union Jackwas hoisted as usual, but at a quarter to nine it was hauled down and thenew Union run up at Dawes Battery and on board the Lady Nelson to theaccompaniment of salutes from the battery and from the brig. Shortly afterwards Grant received orders to take Colonel Paterson, theLieutenant-Governor, to Hunter River, then better known as Coal River. *(* From the abundance of coal found on its banks. Flinders says itsnative name was Yohaaba. The Hunter River was discovered and named by Mr. Shortland in 1797. ) The object of the voyage was to make a survey of theriver and to gain some knowledge of its natural productions, for at thistime much of the coast, both to the north and to the south, was chieflyknown from Cook's chart, and the geography of the more distant parts, marked but not explored by him, was still as he had left it. GovernorKing was also anxious that the Lady Nelson should discover a passage atPort Stephens (called by the natives Yacaaba), and wrote to Patersonrequesting him to complete the exploration of this port before September, "for, " he said, "it will then be necessary to despatch Her Ladyship (i. E. The Lady Nelson) to the southward. "*) * This particular voyage to PortStephens does not appear to have been carried out, for in August the brigwas "refitting. " (See Historical Records of New South Wales. ) TheFrancis, schooner, was equipped to accompany the Lady Nelson, and orderswere given that the schooner should be loaded with coals immediately onher arrival at the Hunter River and sent back to Sydney without delay. Dr. Harris and Ensign Barrallier of the New South Wales Corps (who wereappointed to execute the survey) accompanied Colonel Paterson. A numberof workmen and labourers were also received on board together with anative of Rose Bay named Bungaree. The Lady Nelson left the harbour on June 10th, and as she passed outbetween the Heads, met the ship Cornwallis inward bound from England. OnJune 11th she made North Head of Broken Bay distant 10 or 12 miles. On the next day the weather was variable, but as there was a Sydney piloton board Grant thought that the ship would be safe in his hands. The man, however, mistook his course at a place called Reid's Mistake, which liesto the northward of Broken Bay. He imagined that he had arrived at HunterRiver, and was not convinced of his error till the vessel was within halfa mile of an island at the entrance. * (* Reid's Mistake was so calledbecause a seaman of that name had previously made a similar error, andlost his ship there. The island lies at the entrance of Lake Macquarie(and still bears the name). The wrecked vessel was the Martha, 30 tons, and doubtless was the ship which first saw King Island in 1799. ) Here, as the Lady Nelson was in 17 fathoms water, and the weather wasfair, a boat was lowered and Dr. Harris was sent to explore the place. Onhis return the doctor reported that there was not the least sign of ariver here, but that the sea broke heavily over an inlet behind theisland. He brought with him a native, who on first seeing the boat hadrun towards it crying out alternately "Whale boat" and "Budgeree (i. E. Good) Dick. " It was supposed that this native had been given this name bysome of the people sent in search of the convicts who had run away withthe Norfolk. Be this as it may, Budgeree Dick had some fish with him, which he threw into the bottom of the boat, and then without the leasthesitation jumped in himself. As soon as he had got on board the brig hecontinued to cry incessantly, "Whale boat, Whale boat. " In order to findout his meaning he was introduced to the Sydney native Bungaree, who wasdirected to question the visitor. Bungaree, by signs, invited him to sitdown, an invitation, observes Grant, which, according to native ideas, "implied that a stranger was received with friendship. " But it wasuseless to ask Bungaree to proceed with his inquiries, for another itemof etiquette demanded that a profound silence should follow, which lastedfor twenty minutes. By degrees the two black men entered intoconversation, drawing nearer to one another as they began to talk. Theinformation sought was not obtained, and it was inferred that they didnot well understand each other's language. The ship got under way about 3 P. M. , and two hours later another highperpendicular island bearing north 8 or 9 miles came into view. It wasthought to be the real entrance of Hunter's River. At half-past ten, incompany with Dr. Harris, the Commander went in a boat to discover if itwas their port of destination. The entrance was narrow with a heavy searunning through it. It had a reef on one side, over which broke a veryheavy surf, and on the other side were some sand-breakers. At one timeGrant put the boat's head round to the swell and "pulled out, " but therisk of bringing in the two ships without knowing the size of the channelmade him determine to ascertain it, and accordingly he pulled through andfound from 5 to 4 and 3 1/2 fathoms close to the island. It was highwater when he landed with a party on the island and climbed to the top ofits steep side. The side near the entrance was covered with grass, although everywhere else the island was perpendicular and crumbled awayby degrees into the sea. From the highest point a beautiful view ofHunter's River, and of the surrounding islands was obtained. HereLieutenant Grant hoisted the Union Jack as a signal to the vessels thatthis was the right entrance to the river. He thought, as have most peoplesince, that this island had been separated from the mainland "by someviolent convulsion of nature. " It was named Coal Island by ColonelPaterson, but is now known as the Nobbys. The commander's journal tellshow plentiful wood and coal were on the mainland, and thus describes hiscoming:-- "We returned on board and set about towing and sweeping her in with allpossible dispatch. At noon the latitude was by observation 32 degrees 57minutes 34 seconds south, the island which we named Coal Island bearingwest-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. By the time we approached theentrance the ebb had set strong out and ran with much force; however, bydint of warping we brought up under the island for the night withinpistol shot of the shore. At daylight we proceeded up to a saw pit (madefor the purpose of cutting cedar of a large size and excellent quality, which is growing in abundance on the banks of the river) and came toabreast of it in 3 fathoms water, steadying the vessel by a hawser madefast to a tree on the shore. The harbour is of several miles extent andcapable of containing many sail of shipping, and well sheltered fromevery wind that blows. "We immediately set about making the different arrangements forcompleting the objects of our voyage. The Colonel and I went on shore toexamine the different strata of coals, taking with us a miner who pointedthem out to us very distinctly. We found them running from side to sideof the mountain of various qualities and degrees of thickness. At lowwater coals proper for fuel were to be gathered up from the reefbefore-mentioned, and when the tide was up we could work a pier. Accordingly, having orders to load the schooner. .. With coals and wood, Ihad the satisfaction to see her sail with a cargo of both on June 26th, eleven days after her arrival. "It may be imagined that coals were found in great plenty when I mentionthat the schooner sailed with forty tons, and that we had only one manemployed to dig the mine. The spot where these coals are found is clearof trees or bush for the space of many acres, which are covered with ashort tender grass very proper for grazing sheep, the ground rising witha gradual ascent intersected with valleys on which wood grows in plenty, sheltered from the winds, forming the most delightful prospect. Thisplace might serve as a station for the woodcutters and colliers. * (* Thepoint of land where the colliers were put to work was named Collier'sPoint by Colonel Paterson. Newcastle now stands on this site. ) It affordspasture for sheep, its soil in general being good. .. Dr. Harris and Mr. Barrallier penetrated to some distance inland and met a native whofollowed them for some time and left them. Our native Dick also thoughtproper to leave us in an excursion we made with him into the country. Colonel Paterson discovered some copper and iron ores, the latterstrongly impregnated and rich in metal. The seine was hauled and plentyof excellent fish caught, particularly mullet, with a fish muchresembling the herring which I am inclined to think go in shoals. On anisland in the harbour a tree is found, the quality of whose timber muchresembles that of the ash, and from the great numbers growing there hasgiven this name to the island. "Of this timber I had orders to send a quantity to Sydney, and hadbrought out sawyers for that purpose, but as every object could not be atonce accomplished they were employed in the meantime in cutting down andsawing into planks a tree, the bark of which is much like cork. Thetimber. .. Is light, close, and durable, and promises to stand against theeffects of worms on the bottoms of vessels. I had a boat built of thiswood which proved it to be good. .. This wood has much the resemblance ofwainscot with us. "Mr. Barrallier's survey was all this time going on. Nearly abreast ofthe vessel was a creek which Colonel Paterson and I penetrated for aconsiderable way. On its banks we found part of a net made of stronggrass, apparently the work of a European. We likewise found marks offires having been lighted there, and in the stream the remains of a weir, the work of the native inhabitants. .. We concluded the net had belonged tothe unfortunate men who ran away with the Norfolk. .. On examining AshIsland we found many large timber trees intermixed with ash, one of whichI took on board. .. It has much the likeness of hickory. I found severalother woods, some of them light and pretty, and in particular a tree, theleaves of which sting like nettles. This acquired from us the name ofNettle Tree. " The native, Budgeree Dick, now reappeared after 48 hours' absence, withtwo companions. One had been at Sydney and was known to Colonel Paterson, with whom he was able to converse. Fires and occasionally the nativesthemselves were observed opposite to Ash Island. A party from the shipwent up an arm of the river in order to try and meet with them, but weredisappointed, as at the entrance there was barely water for the boat. Theopposite (or north) shore to which they now proceeded was found to befull of flats and shoals over many of which the boat had to be dragged. Between these flats were gullies of deep water, but there was no regularchannel. Here the trees were encrusted with oysters, and the shorecovered to a great depth with oyster shells. The work was vigorouslypushed forward. Some woodmen were placed on Ash Island to fell and sawtimber. They took a week's provisions, arms, and ammunition, and werewarned to guard against an attack by the crew of the Norfolk or by thenatives. Meanwhile the commander and Paterson visited the coal mine andfound veins of coal of excellent quality, and among the rocks what isknown as "liver of iron. " They also saw strange birds, as well as thewild or native cat, which has been such a pest ever since in most partsof Australia. On June 22nd Colonel Paterson took some men, one of whom was a miner, tolook for coal on the island, while Grant and Barrallier with Dr. Harrissounded the entrance of the harbour. The coal found on the island provedto be of an inferior kind. On his way back to the ship, Lieutenant Grantmet a stranger named John Loft, who had been wrecked out of a boatbelonging to Mr. Underwood of Sydney. She was cast on shore to thenorthward of Port Stephens, and he had been thirty-two days in travellingto this place from there. He had had two companions, one of whom, hesaid, was killed by the natives, the other had eaten a toad fish anddied. The emotions that he felt on meeting his countrymen can be betterimagined than described. "The laugh and the tear had their repeated placein turns, and his first utterance was, 'I am starving with hunger. '" On the 23rd Mr. Barrallier and the second mate met a native in the woodswhom they brought on board. "He was a little elderly man, strait made, and spoke not one syllable that was intelligible. " His legs and arms boreno proportion in length to the rest of his body, and his manner ofascending the ship's ladder was remarkable and proved that he was muchaccustomed to climbing. His method was "to stretch out his arms as far ashe could reach and then bring his feet to the same place with a jerk. "Grant says: "He spoke a jargon of simple sounds as I particularlyobserved only a few words that came from him were composed of more thanone syllable. He could eat nothing; but upon two crows, which some of thepeople had shot, being given him, he stuffed them in the fire feathersand all which after burning off and heating them a little he ate. .. TheColonel gave him a tomahawk which he seemed pleased with and showed thathe understood the use of it. He was put on shore near the place wherethey met him. .. He was quite naked and had no ornament through thecartilage of his nose. Colonel Paterson declared that he had never met anative who differed so widely from the rest of the New Hollanders. "Before he disappeared he gave the boat's crew an exhibition of hisclimbing powers, for they pointed to a tree, making signs that theywished to see him climb it. This he quickly did, first cutting a notchwith the axe and continuing thus to make footholds until he nimblyreached the top--the tree being without branches to a height of 40 feet. About this time there appeared a small party of woodmen who had been sentto cut cedar for Mr. Palmer. These men had intended returning to Sydney, having run short of provisions, but seeing the Lady Nelson they joinedher. On June 28 the Lady Nelson advanced up the river and moored in one of itsbranches about 6 miles from the entrance, Mr. Barrallier surveying whileColonel Paterson with Dr. Harris and Mr. Lewin (the artist who had joinedthe Lady Nelson after the sailing of the Francis) went in the launch toexamine the river and inspect the country. On the 7th the Commander himself in company with Mr. Barrallier set offto join Paterson. They found the country level and swampy near the river, but with delightful views in the distance. "The river took a serpentinecourse, and for many miles appeared to be as broad as the Thames atKingston. From the marks on the trees it would seem that it is subject tobe greatly overflowed at times. The cedar (or rather the mahogany of NewHolland) appeared to have been immersed in water to the height of 50 or60 feet. On our way up we landed at a small creek which we traced for aconsiderable distance coming to a gradual ascent covered with the mostluxuriant grass. There was an extensive view from this height of a finechampain country. I named the eminence Mount Egerton after a seatbelonging to the Duke of Bridgewater. In the evening we found by thesound of the bugle that we had reached the Colonel's headquarters. Weanswered the welcome signal and before it was quite dark we joined them. "The Colonel had erected a comfortable hut. The cedar grew here in greatplenty, and Mr. Palmer's party sawed many fine planks from these trees. Colonel Paterson, Dr. Harris, Mr. Barrallier and myself penetrated 30miles farther up the river in the course of which we met with many rapidswhich obliged us to get out and drag the boats up. We had hitherto seennone of the natives, but discovered places where they had been by themarks of their fires. We now descried some of them at a distance, whofled on our approach. We came to a spot which they had just quitted andobserved the marks of children's feet. The ground was covered withfreshwater shells of the sort found in the rivers of England and Scotlandand called the horse mussel, having sometimes small pearls in them. "We ascended two heights which commanded views of the country for severalmiles on every side. To one, Colonel Paterson gave the name of Ann'sMountain after Mrs. King, the other he called Elizabeth's Mountain, thatbeing the Christian name of Mrs. Paterson. We now found that we had gotbehind the range of mountains extending along the coast to the south andwest. We likewise saw the coast of Port Stephens and the chain of hillsinland stretching in a direction towards the north-east. Between us andthe hills was a space perfectly level for many miles, and to appearanceswampy. The land on the south side of the river was interspersed withlagoons on which we killed some ducks but found them very shy. Thecountry seemed not to be destitute of inhabitants, some of whom wedescried at a distance. The river here meandered so greatly that to havepursued its course the boats must have been pulled a whole day to havegained a direct distance of four or five miles from our present station. "The time limited for our departure for Sydney approaching very fast andthe survey still to be made not being less than 70 miles up the river, itwas judged prudent not to proceed any further. Passing the night upon thebanks of the river we descended it the next day to our former rendezvous, Schanck Forest, Pasture Plains, where preparations were made for ageneral embarkation. "The next morning I left Colonel Paterson in company of Mr. Barrallier, who then proceeded on the survey of the river. On our passage down it, wesaw several natives with their canoes. .. In many of them we saw fires, andin some of them observed that kind of eatable to which they give the nameof cabra. * (* Teredo. ) It appears to be abominably filthy; however, whendressed, it is not disagreeable to the taste. The cabra is a species ofworm which breeds in the wood that happens to be immersed in water, andare found in such parts of the river wherein trees have fallen. They growto a great size and soon reduce timber to the appearance of a honeycomb. They are of a glutinous substance, and after being put on the fire hardento the consistence of the spinal marrow of animals. When fire is not athand, the natives eat them raw; some of them being found at a fire nearone of the canoes, I tasted them on the recommendation of one of my menand found them not unpalatable. .. "We saw several natives at a small distance; one of them looked earnestlyat us and seemed to be waiting our approach. One of my men called to himin his own language to stop, but at length he got behind a tree whence hepresented only his head and shoulders, brandishing a fish-gig in hishand. He waited our landing, and seeing we were unarmed threw down hismuton (so they named the fish-gig) and came readily to us. For whatreason I know not (for we appeared without any marks of distinction) headdressed himself first to me, and taking from his forehead a small netwhich their women weave from the fur of the opossum he bound it roundmine. In my turn I took out my pocket handkerchief and bound it round hishead which pleased him very much, and we became from the moment the bestof friends. I invited him on board the boat, and he readily accepted myinvitation. When on board he was called to from the woods on the oppositeshore by a number of voices which surprised us a little as we did notexpect they were in such numbers. My new acquaintance called out in histurn to those on shore, and their cries immediately ceased. I have reasonto think. .. That he assured them he had nothing to fear, which quietedtheir alarm. "Proceeding further we saw a flock of ducks and I ordered one of thepeople to fire which he did and was lucky enough to kill two. Never did Iwitness stronger marks of surprise than were depicted on the stranger'scountenance when he heard the report of the gun and saw the two ducksfall into the water. His astonishment was increased when he got on boardthe vessel; everything. .. Seemed to fill him with wonder and amazement. During the time he stayed on board he never quitted my side, and at thehour of rest he laid himself down near my bed place. I presented him witha small tomahawk which pleased him very much and he pronounced with muchearnestness the word. .. 'Mogo. ' He readily ate of whatever was set beforehim; spirits he would not touch, but sugar he took freely. He endeavouredto repeat our words after us; and was infinitely more tractable than thenative last described. He was an elderly man, short in stature but wellmade; his arms and legs were long in proportion to his body which wasslender and straight. Having occasion to despatch my first mate in a boatto Colonel Paterson I took that opportunity of sending off my NewHollander with directions that he should be landed on the precise spotfrom whence he was taken. .. When the first mate was returning he wassurprised to find his passenger of the day before on the banks, whobegged to be permitted to return to the vessel with him; he had a younglad with him whom he desired might accompany him and they were bothbrought on board. This lad made me understand that he wished to have amogo and I soon found that I could not make a more acceptable present toa native. .. "On the 19th we were rejoined by Colonel Paterson with the whole of hisparty. The Colonel had explored a branch of the river on the banks ofwhich he found a species of flax growing which he thought was valuable. He had collected specimens of many rare and uncommon plants particularlysome varieties of fern, but unfortunately was deprived of the fruits ofhis industry. His servant had made use of the bundle of plants as apillow and having placed it too near the fire it was soon in a blaze, andhe was awaked only in time to save his face from being scorched. .. "We were now growing short of provisions and no vessel arriving fromSydney we set about making preparations for our return thither. There wasnow a small establishment made for the colliers. * (* At Collier's Point. )I had built them a convenient hut to shelter them. I left them a boat andseine with what provisions I was able to spare. We took our departure forSydney on the 22nd of July 1801, and arrived there on the 25th. " Six weeks after his return to port, Grant sent in his resignation on theground that he had so "little knowledge of nautical surveying. " Theresignation was accepted by King, who wrote in reply: "I should have beenglad if your ability as a surveyor or being able to determine thelongitude of the different places you might visit was in anyway equal toyour ability as an officer or a seaman. " A very slight perusal of Grant's narrative of his voyage enables us tograsp the state of his feelings when he sent in his resignation. It isevident that he thought he had not been treated fairly, and was glad toquit New South Wales. He writes of his departure: "The mortifications anddisappointments I met with. .. Induced me to seize the first opportunity ofleaving the country. " And it seems possible that when he told King thathe had no knowledge of "nautical surveying, " he said so because he knewKing thought he had not, and it looks as if the admission was made as apretext to obtain his passage to England, rather than for the purpose ofbelittling his own capabilities. That Grant was a fine seaman goeswithout saying. That he was personally courageous, his subsequent navalservices proved. He seems to have handled his ship at all times withextraordinary care, and it may have been that he had studied marinesurveying with less assiduity than seamanship, for the chart that he mademust be admitted to be very imperfect. Murray, his successor in the command of the brig, is best remembered asthe discoverer of Victoria, and "yet, " writes Rusden, "he (Murray) merelyobeyed a distinct order in going thither to trace the coast between PointSchanck and Cape Albany Otway noticing the soundings and everythingremarkable. " Rusden might have added, that Murray probably received somebenefit from Grant's experiences, for at that time he was equallyincompetent as a marine surveyor. It is Flinders who has credited Grantwith the discovery of the coast of Victoria "as far as Cape Schanck, " andFlinders was most competent to judge as to whom the honour should belong. On the great seaman's chart published in 1814 (Terra Australis, by M. Flinders, South Coast, Sheet 5) is inscribed, "Coast as far as CapeSchanck discovered by Captain James Grant, 1800, " in which track, ofcourse, is included the entrance to Port Phillip, although Flinders knewthat Grant had not penetrated to the bay itself. Grant sailed from Sydney in the Anna Josepha, Captain Maclean, an oldSpanish brig, belonging to Mr. Simeon Lord. She had been taken off thecoast of Peru by the Betsy whaler, and on her arrival at Sydney wasrenamed Anna Josepha in honour of the Governor's wife. Loaded with coalsand spars, the ship left Port Jackson for the Cape of Good Hope onNovember 9th, 1801. She steered southward of New Zealand, made Cape Horn, and then sailed to the Falklands. Grant quitted her when she reachedTristan D'Acunha and obtained a passage in the Ocean as far as Table Bay. There he shipped on April 12th, 1802, in H. M. S. Imperieuse for England, where he arrived safely, and, in due course, reported himself to theAdmiralty. Three years later he obtained his rank of Commander on January 12th, 1805, with a pension for gallantry in a spirited action off Holland, whenin command of the Hawke cutter he was badly wounded. He subsequentlycommanded the Raven and Thracian and died at St. Servan in 1833, aged 61. CHAPTER 4. MURRAY APPOINTED COMMANDER OF THE LADY NELSON: HIS VOYAGE TO NORFOLKISLAND. On Grant's resigning the command of the Lady Nelson, Governor Kingappointed John Murray to succeed him. As has been told Murray hadformerly been Master's mate of the Porpoise and had accompanied Grantwhen he went for the second time to try and explore Governor King's Bay, and the Governor apparently thought him a capable officer. Hisappointment is dated September 3rd, 1801, so that he seems to have takenover the new post about two months before his predecessor finally leftSydney. When, however, the Lady Nelson sailed to the Hawkesbury in September toload the settlers' grain and to bring it to Sydney, Grant appears to havebeen still on board her, as he was enjoined to ensure her safety at thatplace by Governor King. "You are not to leave the vessel yourself orsuffer any other person to leave her while in the river nor let anystrangers or visitors go on board. .. Your board netting is to be kept upwhile in the river. " King evidently was determined to guard against thecapture of the brig by runaway convicts, a fate which had overtaken theNorfolk. Murray succeeded to the command of the brig on her return fromthis Hawkesbury trip. His first voyage was to Norfolk Island, when hecarried orders and instructions from the Governor of New South Wales toMajor Foveaux, the Lieutenant-Governor. Before leaving Sydney, CaptainAbbott, Ensign Piper and Mr. John Roberts (surgeon's mate) were embarkedas passengers on board the Lady Nelson, and in the afternoon of October1st she set sail for her destination. The following account of her voyageis extracted from the log:-- H. M. A. SURVEYING VESSEL LADY NELSON. From Port Jackson to Norfolk Island. "October 2nd, 1801. At 3 P. M. Got under weigh and stood out of ye Heads. Observed ye Porpoise to be in the offing. At 5 P. M. Passed under thestern of the Porpoise and Mr. Murray went on board and waited on yeCommander of that vessel. At 6 Lieutenant Murray returned on board, hoisted in our gig and gave the Porpoise three cheers, which wasreturned--made sail at half-past 6 P. M. --ye North Head of Port Jacksonbore to west by north distant 6 miles, the South Head of Broken Bay borenorth by west distance 6 leagues. "Saturday, October 3rd. Fresh winds and clear. About half-past 4 P. M. Thewind shifted to north-west with light rain and thunder and lightning. At8 A. M. The wind rather took off and we had clear weather, but with a veryheavy sea on. At noon we had a strong gale with a high sea on, ourLatitude 33 degrees 55 minutes south. "Sunday, October 4th. Strong gale with heavy squalls at intervals with avery high sea running. Very heavy squall attended with thunder andlightning, large hail stones at ye same time. At 10 A. M. Mustered yeShip's Company and read the articles of war being the first Sunday of yemonth. "Monday, October 5th. Fresh breezes and heavy squalls with flying showersof rain and heavy sea running. At 4 P. M. Saw Lord Howe Island bearingnorth-east distant 16 or 17 leagues. At 10 P. M. When it cleared saw BallsPyramid bearing north by west distant 6 or 9 miles: at 12 had anothersight of it on our larboard quarter--at daylight again saw the Pyramiddistant 10 or 12 leagues. .. At noon lost sight of Island. "Tuesday, October 6th. Fresh breezes and clear--squally. At noon lightairs. "Wednesday, October 7th. Light airs and inclinable to calm. "Thursday, 8th October. Fresh wind and clear high sea. Keeping good lookout for Island of Norfolk. At 4 A. M. Made sail--at 6 A. M. Saw Norfolk andPhillip Islands distant 12 leagues--at noon, being 9 or 10 miles off yetown, fired a gun and hoisted signal for pilot. "Friday, 9th October. Moderate weather--at half-past 2 P. M. Fired a 2ndgun for pilot--at half-past 3 seeing no boat and judging of theappearance of the sea there was no landing at Sydney Bay, * (* Sydney, Norfolk Island. ) bore on for Cascade, and by 5 got in sight of yeStorehouse--fired another gun--at 7 P. M. John Drumond, pilot, came onboard, took charge as pilot--sent our boatswain's mate on shore inpilot's boat with letter to Lieutenant Governor--kept standing off allnight--at daylight the Storehouse distant 3 miles--at 6 A. M. LandedCaptain E. Abbott, Ensign Piper and Mr. John Roberts--at 9 A. M. Boatreturned bringing with them ye pilot's assistant who told us ye landingwas good at Sydney--bore up for Sydney. By 11 got round and a boat comingoff we discharged a number of articles into her belonging to thedifferent officers. At noon they went on shore. "Saturday, 10th October. Observed the flag for indifferent landing--hoveup, put ye vessel under snug sail and stood off and on during night--at 4P. M. Phillip's Island bore north distant 6 miles. A boat came along, intowhich we delivered a part of the officers' baggage. "Sunday, 11th October. Moderate winds and weather--a confused sea. P. M. Aboat came off--sent in her ye officers' baggage--at 6 P. M. The weatherlooking rather unfavourable ran the vessel into Hunsons Bay--stood offand on during night--at daylight went round to Sydney Harbour. "Monday, 12th October. Variable winds, fine weather. P. M. A 2nd boat camewith Ensign Baillie's baggage. Stood off and on during night--in themorning went into Sydney Bay--a boat came off with Mr. Baillie's baggage, also received for boat 4 rough spars for sweeps. "Tuesday, 13th October. Standing off and on Cascade Bay--at 4 thevessel's signal for a boat was made from ye shore--lowered down our gigand sent the boatswain on shore in her. In a little time he returned andinformed me it was the Lieutenant-Governor's orders that I should standto sea and await boat--made all sail and stood to sea till sundown, whenseeing no signs of a boat made sail for ye island. Saw a large ship inthe offing, she proved to be the Earl Cornwallis from Sydney. "Wednesday, 14th October. A. M. Seeing no signs of a boat went around toSydney Bay and observed Cornwallis lying to off Northern Island. "Thursday, 15th October. At 5 P. M. Ensign Bayley embarked on boat and theboat brought remainder of his baggage--all the other passengers came onboard--discharged the pilot. At 6 made sail--at 7 P. M. Mount Pitt borenorth-east by east distant 4 leagues--at sundown ye Earl Cornwallis outof sight. "Friday, 16th October. Fresh gales--cloudy and rain--a high searunning--strong gales. The vessel laboured a great deal. . .. "Tuesday, 27th October. Fresh winds and hazy--at 2 A. M. Saw landnorth-west 10 or 11 miles--at 8 A. M. South head of Broken Bay bore tonorth-west 6 miles--at noon fine--got within Heads and made all sail. "JOHN MURRAY, "Commander. " On his return to Sydney on the completion of the voyage Murray wasordered by Governor King to proceed in the Lady Nelson and finish theexploration of the south coast, which Grant had not been able tocomplete. The instructions issued by Governor King were very precise. "You will proceed without loss of time to Basses Straights and observethe following directions for prosecuting discoveries in those straightson the south-west coast of this country. .. When you are between Ram Headand Western Port you will proceed to Kent's Group and ascertain the sizeof those islands (particularly the easternmost). .. From Kent's Group youwill run on a straight course to Wilson's Promontory noticing the courseand distance, soundings and quality of the bottom. .. From Wilson'sPromontory you will trace the coast between Point Schanck and Cape AlbanyOtway. .. From thence you will run to Harbinger Rock lying off thenorth-west point of King's Island. .. You will make the circuit of thatisland or islands in addition to the King's instructions respecting newdiscoveries. .. You will carefully examine. .. All within 6 miles round theisland to ascertain whether a vessel may anchor. Having completed thesurvey. .. You will ascertain the time of bearing. .. Between the southwesternmost point and Albatross Islands, the northernmost of Hunter'sIslands and the Pyramid. Having completed. .. Your survey thus far you willascertain to what distance soundings may be got to the westward of theNorfolk's and Lady Nelson's passages taking care to traverse across tothe latitude of 42 degrees on the south side and within sight of land onthe north side or coast of New Holland (Van Dieman's Land) until between38 and 42 degrees. .. As you stand in on the New Holland side you willexamine the coast between Cape Albany Otway and Cape Solicitor whichLieutenant Grant named Portland Bay the bottom of which he did not see. Should you have time I would wish you to run due south from CapeSolicitor as far as 40 degrees and work back again to CapeBridgewater. .. You will employ another month. .. In tracing the coast fromCape Banks. .. In returning to this port you will deliver all such journalsand charts as may have been completed. .. During your intended voyage. "Should you fall in with H. M. S. Investigator you will communicate theseinstructions to the Commander. .. And put yourself under his command. Andin case you fall in and are come up with by the Naturaliste andGeographe, French vessels on discovery, you will produce your passportfrom His Grace the Duke of Portland to the Commander of that expedition. "PHILIP GIDLEY KING. "SYDNEY, October 31st, 1801. " CHAPTER 5. MURRAY'S EXPLORATION OF BASS STRAIT. The Lady Nelson set forth from Sydney on her mission on November 12th, 1801. Obeying Governor King's orders, Murray steered first towards theKent Group. * (* The Kent Group was discovered by Lieutenant MatthewFlinders in the Francis, and named by him in honour of Captain WilliamKent of H. M. S. Supply. The group was subsequently visited by Mr. Rushworth and other sailors. ) His log shows how he mistook other islands, probably the Sisters* (* The Sisters Islands were so named by CaptainFurneaux in 1773 from the resemblance they bore to each other. Peroncalls them two small islands escarpes. ) at the northern extremity of theFurneaux Group, for his place of destination and how, when 25 miles tothe northward of Cape Barren, on seeing smoke rising from an island, hesent a boat ashore and found living there two men, a woman and a child, the men, Chase and Beven, being sealers in the employ of Messrs. Kable &Underwood, of Sydney. The Lady Nelson was then brought to and moored inDiana Bay, a well-known anchorage in Furneaux Islands. Murray, at this time, seems to have been much farther southward thanGovernor King intended him to go, for the island which he writes of asGrand Capshine was undoubtedly the Grand Capuchin, the largest island ofthe Furneaux Group, now known as Flinders Island. * (* Named FlindersIsland by Captain Flinders in honour of his brother, Lieutenant SamuelFlinders, R. N. ) Diana Bay, the bay in which the Lady Nelson stayed for some days, wasformed by the shores of the Grand Capuchin and Storehouse and CatIslands, the last named islands being the Babel Islands of Flinders. Invery early days this bay was much frequented by sealing vessels and in1801 gained its name from the ship Diana, a small vessel belonging toMessrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney, which afterwards stranded on theGrand Capuchin and which had a curious history. A French schooner namedL'Entreprise of Bordeaux, under the command of Captain Le Corre, lastfrom the Isle of France, while sealing in these waters was also wreckedabout a year later off one of the Sisters, 30 miles to the northward ofwhere the Diana went ashore. Le Corre and two-thirds of his crewperished. The supercargo whose name, according to Peron, was Coxwell, butwhich the Sydney Gazette prints as Coggeshall, was among the saved andwas brought with the other rescued men to Sydney. Coggeshall returnedwith Mr. Underwood to endeavour to save the hull of the vessel, andthough they failed to float L'Entreprise, they were more successful asregards the Diana which was repaired and renamed the Surprise, the nameby which the lost French schooner had been known by the English fromGovernor King downwards. In order to pay expenses she was put up topublic auction in Sydney and purchased by one of the officers ofL'Entreprise for 117 guineas, but was afterwards resold to her originalowners, Messrs. Kable & Underwood. * (* See Sydney Gazettes, March 12thand March 19th, 1803. ) Murray did not name the Grand Capuchin, for it was so called before thetime of his visit. Nor did Flinders or Bass give it that name, which wasprobably derived from the cowled peak of a mountain on it, one of threechristened by Flinders the Patriarchs, combined with the fact thatFurneaux had already named some black rocky islands that lay off theentrance to Storm Bay Passage, The Friars. * (* The Boreels Eylander ofTasman. ) It seems likely that Barrallier in the Lady Nelson's previousvoyage or some French sailor bestowed the name Capuchin upon FlindersIsland, and Murray wrote it on his chart, although it was afterwardserased from the maps and replaced at first by the name of Great Islandand later by that of Flinders Island. * (* The Sydney Gazette of March31st, 1831, in giving the names of the Furneaux Group transfers the nameto Babel Islands, i. E. "Babel Islands or Capisheens as called by thesealers, " but, as Murray's Chart, page 146, and Sydney Gazettes of anearlier period will show, at first Flinders Island alone was calledCapuchin. ) Leaving Diana Bay on November 25th Murray saw the easternmost members ofthe Kent Group and steered through the passage which separates theprincipal islands and which was named in his honour, Murray's Passage. Flinders had passed through the same passage, when he discovered thegroup, in the Francis in 1798, and named a rock to the south of it theJudgment Rock "from its resemblance to an elevated seat. "* (* TheAustralian Sailing Directory, Admiralty. ) After surveying the Kent Group, Murray started to carry out his survey ofWestern Port and Port Phillip. On December 5th he sighted Sir RogerCurtis's Island and on the 7th reached Western Port where he was detainedby bad weather until the first week in January. On January 5th* (* Thelogbooks were kept in nautical fashion, the day beginning at noon beforethe civil reckoning, so that Port Phillip was really discovered on theafternoon of Monday, January 4th, 1802. According to the Admiraltylibrarian the change from nautical to civil reckoning in the logs did nottake place until 1805. ) as the vessel ran along the Victorian coasttowards Port Phillip dense smoke from native fires hid the land fromview. At 3 P. M. The smoke had cleared away and Bowen, who was at themasthead, espied an opening in the land ahead which "had the appearanceof a harbour. " Keeping close in for it Murray saw inside a fine smoothsheet of water. An island lay at the entrance but the waves were breakinghigh on the rocks so the brig was hauled off and taken out to sea. Murraythen steered to King Island deciding to return again later to explore thenewly discovered harbour. He surveyed the east coast of King Island fromCape Farewell to Seal Bay. Some sea elephants were lying on the beach ofthe bay that he first entered, and this was named Sea Elephant Bay. * (*Murray's survey of King Island was an important one and Governor Kingrefers to it as "giving to the British priority of discovery over theFrench ships" when eleven months afterwards Baudin came to the island. )The following pages describe Murray's exploration of King Island and ofhis first sight of Port Phillip. MURRAY'S LOG. H. M. A. SURVEYING VESSEL LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY. LIEUTENANT-COMMANDERJOHN MURRAY. Sydney Cove to Bass Strait. "Thursday, 12th November 1801. Working out of ye Heads at 1 P. M. --at 2P. M. Ye South Head of Port Jackson bore north-north-west 11 miles. At 4P. M. Ye weather began to look squally and black from ye south-west withnow and then lightning. .. At 5 it thundered and the lightningincreased. .. During night fresh winds and a heavy sea up; in the morningno land in sight. "Friday, 13th November. Fresh winds and clear with heavy tumblingsea. .. At sundown Mount Dromedary 9 or 10 leagues N. W. W. During nightunsettled weather and a confused sea. At noon Cape How bore West distance7 or 8 leagues. "Saturday, 14th November. Light airs inclinable to calm, a very heavy seafrom south-west. At sundown Cape How bore north-west distant about 7leagues. .. We hauled in for the land this morning, the Longitude byGovernor King's timekeeper was 149 degrees 30 minutes 45 seconds east, Latitude by anticipation 38 degrees 00 minutes 00 seconds south. At nooncalm fine weather. Latitude observed 38 degrees 06 minutes 43 secondssouth. "Sunday, 15th November. Moderate fine weather and smooth water. .. At 9A. M. We had a curious squall at every point of the compass, it did notblow very hard and seemed to settle in the south-east quarter. "Monday, 16th November. At half-past 5 P. M. Saw a thunder squall risingin western quarter. The squall passed over the land and thundered a gooddeal with much lightning, at half-past 7 it took a north-west turn and at8 P. M. Passed over our heads, though with no great deal of wind. .. In themorning made sail. .. Latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south. "Thursday, 19th November. Moderate and hazy. At 6 A. M. Saw Kent's Groupbearing south-west distances 8 or 9 leagues--their appearance was like agreat number of small islands being nearly south-east and north-west; at8 A. M. The easternmost island of Kent's Group and the largest boresouth-south-west distance 7 or 8 leagues. At 9 A. M. The whole chain ofislands, 13 in number, bore from south by west to west the large islandas above. "Friday, 20th November. Light variable winds and fine weather. Keptworking up to the land but were surprised to find that instead of being asmall group of islands, ye body of the land was very large and whateverappeared as islands began to connect itself into one island, the latitudenot agreeing with Lieutenant Flinders, concluded it could not be Kent'sGroup. Kept working up to it and by daylight was within 5 miles of yenorthernmost island, passed close to it and seeing an immense number ofbirds on it sent the boat on shore to procure some; in a short time afterthis I saw a smoke arise from the small island just passed, sent ye boatand ye first mate there where they found two men, one woman and a child, of Henry Kable's employ; assisted them as well as we could--by noonworked into a good harbour and moored between Storehouse and CatIsland--got the Latitude by going on shore 39 degrees 57 minutes 46seconds south. When moored, the Grand Capshine bore west-north-westdistant 1/2 mile--Cat Island bore north by east 1/4 mile and StorehouseIsland south-east quarter of a mile. Cape Barren the east point south 1/2east distant 25 miles. "Saturday, 21st November. Employed taking on stone for ballast. Carpenterfitting places for sweeps to row in and on the longboat. P. M. BrokeFarmer Barnes for contempt and disobedience of orders. Rated RobertWarren boatswain's mate in his room. A. M. Sent the first mate and a partyof hands (with one of the people found here) and some dogs to getkangaroo being informed that great plenty was to be found in the country. "Sunday, 22nd November. The first officer and his party returned onboard; they shot 2 wambucks, * (* Presumably wombats. ) a kangaroo, aporcupine, a swan and some birds--in the evening sent the second mate andsome hands on shore to get mutton-birds, and eggs. On account of thegreat plenty of fresh provisions served no salt meat this day. I went andmeasured a base line from the south end of Storehouse Island due East andWest 2 miles to a point on ye Grand Capshine and from thence surveyedthis harbour more for the sake of practice than any use it could be, thisplace being well-known by the name Diana Bay. "Monday, 23rd November. At 6 P. M. Sent party on shore with the first mateto procure mutton-birds for officers and people. At 9 P. M. The officerand party returned on board, having got near 100 birds and some eggs. AsI was at supper, I received the following note from R. B. Wood my clerk: "'SIR, --Under the unfortunate situation in which I am placed as aprisoner and a convict it may appear strange my presumption in observingthat something serious I wish to communicate to you. Pardon me sayingthat secrecy is requisite--and that after you have supped and alone willbe best. I am, Sir, Your humble servant, "'R. B. WOOD. ' "On receiving this, a little time after, I sent for him and he informedme that he had seen Mark Clark, soldier, and Robert Warren, who was onlytwo days ago rated boatswain's mate, pumping off spirits from a cask inthe hold; that he suspected this business had been carried on for sometime and believed more than those might be concerned. In addition JohnJohnston, cabin servant, informed me that he had seen a number of thepeople at different times half drunk when on their watch below; inconsequence of these circumstances I turned the hands on deck and readthe Articles of War to them, put Mark Clark, Robert Warren and FarmerBarnes in irons, he being drunk; and in the morning I hoisted on deck allthe casks of spirits, overhauled them and found one with the bung justout and about 4 1/2 inches dry in it; nailed lead over the bung andtossed them below again. On questioning Clark on this affair he confessedthat he and Warren had pumped spirits out of the cask last night, andGeorge Yates informed me that Warren had made a practice of it for sometime back. On investigating the matter closer it appeared that Barnes hadnothing to do with it. I accordingly released Barnes and again rated himboatswain's mate--turned the hands up and punished Robert Warren withfour dozen lashes for robbery, drunkenness, etc. , and Mark Clark with onedozen lashes only as it appeared that he had been prompted to this whendrunk. "Tuesday, 24th November. First and middle parts fine weather and mostlycalm, latter hazy. Half-past 9 anchor and made sail out between the GrandCapshine and Cat Island, hoisted up our gig and stowe her. At 10 A. M. CatIsland bore south-east distant 5 miles and the peak of the Grand Capshinesouth-south-east distant 6 miles. At noon the Grand Capshine boresouth-east distant 16 or 17 miles and the west end of ye Sisters west bysouth distant 8 or 9 miles. The harbour we have just left is formed bythe Grand Capshine Island, Cat Island and Storehouse Island. Between theGrand Capshine and Cat Island is a narrow channel with deep water throughwhich we came to-day--it lies about north-west by north a few hundredyards. Between Cat Island and Storehouse Island is a two-fathom channel, one-sixth of a mile broad through which Kable's schooner has passed tothe South. The harbour is very open and a good deal of sea heaves in, butsmall vessels can up anchor and just run round to the opposite side ofCat Island--there is a snug cove entirely secure from all southerly windswhere they may anchor, taking care to be off from this last place, if thewind comes from the northward. From the Grand Capshine the land trendsaway in a south-east and south direction as far as Cape Barren; fromwhere we lay the Bay of Shoals bore south by west distant 15 miles. Avessel of a large draught would have to lie a good deal further out inthe Bay than we, as we rode in one quarter less than 3 fathoms. "Wednesday, 25th November. Fresh breezes and hazy weather. At half-past 3saw a single rock bearing south-south-west distance 9 or 10 miles, and anisland on our beam south-east. .. Haze very thick and scud flying thick. At4 P. M. Saw a rock lying to north of Kent's Group about 3 miles. .. Athalf-past 4 saw easternmost island of Kent's Group bearing west by southdistance 8 miles, by half-past 5 P. M. Having come nearly up with theland, passed in between the group and a rock that lies to the north andby 6 opened the Sound that passes through the Islands. .. As we approachedthe first cove saw a large part of the island on fire from which weconceived there might be people on shore--kept standing up the Sound andhad furious gusts of wind at every point of the compass. We proceeded upwith sails, sweeps and boat till we opened the second cove but found itimpossible to get to anchorage in it as violent gusts constantly camedown it. At 7 P. M. Bore away for the cove on the west side and athalf-past 7 P. M. Came to anchor in 7 fathoms. "Thursday, 26th November. Moderately fine weather in general. At 2 P. M. The officer and hisparty returned on board having found no water--every part of the cove wasoverhauled and only rainwater could be found here, the rocks beingstrongly marked with the stream of water that will naturally fall fromsuch a high land in heavy rain. From the mate's finding a small quantityof Queyha rope in this cove, and seeing a dog dead on the beach, I fancythe Harrington must have been here, the dog being much like one of Mr. Cumming's. In the afternoon I sent the first mate to the second cove onthe east side to overhaul it for water, but on the strictest search theyfound nothing, but a brackish kind of spring. .. They however shot andcaught three kangaroos. "Friday, 27th November. Sounded the channel that divided this group rightthrough. .. At the southernmost end lies a bank of 10 fathoms. As youapproach the East Cove the water gradually shoals from 30 to 40fathoms. .. And as you advance on West Cove the water suddenly falls from30 to 16-14-12-10-8-7-6-5-4 and 3 fathoms, close to the beach the bottomconsists of sand mixed with small shells and stones--the East Cove thesame and small seaweed, the West Cove is strong, coarse sand and where weanchored quite covered with black kelp so much so that at first I was notclear but it might be rock. .. "Saturday, 28th November. Measured a base line of 324 fathoms in lengthfrom one point of the cove we lay in to the other, it was measured withsmall line and every five fathoms of it was a chip of light wood inlength 120 fathoms. We had the boats employed in this business;alternately anchored them till we got across to the southern end of thepoint of the cove; and as the water was smooth I fancy the length of baseline to be correct. I then surveyed the eastern side of the Sound andCove. Sent the first mate and some hands to the north-east cove to cutsome of ye wood growing there. .. I sent the carpenter with him--overhauledour bread and found. .. Some had got damp and mouldy, got it out from therest, but owing to the bad weather could not air it on deck. .. "Sunday, 29th November. Hard gales and gloomy weather throughout with aswell heaving in through the northern entrance of ye sound. P. M. Thefirst mate returned on board having cut down two spars. .. The party withthe dog caught two large and 3 small kangaroos. At 8 P. M. As usual set athird watch with an officer. A. M. I went over to Harrington (or East)Cove, * (* Named after Captain Campbell's ship the Harrington to whosepresence in these waters Murray often refers. ) measured a base line andsurveyed the western side of this sound. I also overhauled every part ofthe Rocks all round the cove and without it examined every drain that Ifell in with and although I saw at different parts of the under rocks andin holes perhaps enough water to keep a few men alive yet no quantitythat could be much use to a ship's company. In East Cove there is a goodanchorage all over it for ships of any size, and they may exactly choosewhat water to be in from 3 fathoms close in to ye beach to 14 in ye mouthof it. I sounded every part of it and ye bottom is sand with small stonesand shells much covered with black seaweed that might at first be thoughtto be rocks. .. West Cove is almost the same. .. East Cove is ye best to liein as it entirely shuts in sea gates and moreover has little ground swellto which both other coves are subject. With respect to the tide in thecoves little can be perceived, the perpendicular rise at full moon may be10 or 11 feet, with us it sometimes was 8 or 9 feet, and that in yecourse of ye hour. .. At all times it is imprudent to carry sail on a boatin this sound; the puffs come so violent that before anybody could takein her sail she would to a certainty be overset; even ships, in myopinion, would do well before they enter this sound to take in all theirsmall sails and keep all hands at the braces fore and aft as well ashands by the top-sail halyards, and it is necessary to handle the yardsquick otherwise a large vessel will be sure to rub sides with ye rocks ifit has blown fresh outside all day. .. The kangaroo seems to be mostplentiful at this time in the north-eastern cove owing, I fancy, to theirbeing less disturbed there than in the other coves, but with good dogsand a little trouble they may be had on the hills in the vicinity ofeither cove. Wood is plentiful and no trouble in getting it. "Monday, 30th November. Hard gales, hazy weather with rain throughout. The soil throughout this sound is nothing but sand a good way up thehills and after that you chiefly find rocks with here and there a shottof grass. The hills are covered very thick with brushwood, a great partof which is decayed and rotten and renders it a business of labour toascend any of them. They are also very high--we have seen nothing new onthem. A few parrots are to be seen and now and then a snake of a largesize, these with kangaroos, gulls, redbills, form the inhabitants ofthese islands, sometimes a seal comes in shore but very seldom and withmuch care. "Thursday, 3rd December. Warped a little way out and finding could get nomore of the warp sent hands in the gig to stand by. .. She drove and wewere obliged to let go small bower again. At this time wind increased toa gale. .. P. M. Got altitudes for Governor King's chronometer. A. M. Sentthe first mate and a party to get kangaroos to the opposite or west sideof the land from the cove we lay in and for fresh water. "Friday, 4th December. At sundown party returned--reported no fresh waterto be found on that side of island, got 3 kangaroos, some shell-fish, andknocked down 2 seals. A. M. Hove up our B. B. * (* Best bower, that is thestarboard bower. ) At 11 weighed and made sail through sound, at quarterpast 11 clear through, strong wind at east. Got sight of rock laying offthis island. At noon bore up to survey small island. "Saturday, 5th December. Strong winds, hazy. At 1 P. M. Hove to. .. At 3P. M. Body of Kent's Group bore east by south distance 15 or 16 miles. Athalf-past 4 the five Seal Islands bore north-north-east distance 8 or 9miles. .. Saw Sir R. Curtis's Island west by south 10 miles. At 7 P. M. SawWilson's Promontory bearing west-north-west 13 or 14 miles. .. Stood ontill 9 P. M. When it being thick and almost calm hauled close to ye windoff and on. .. At 4 A. M. The Promontory bore west 7 or 8 miles. Made allsail at 8 A. M. Rounded and intending to run between the mainland and yeislands having a fine breeze was surprised to lose all ye wind in aninstant as we stood in under ye land--although we were not less than 3 or4 miles from ye mainland it fell calm. .. Put the helm a starboard, putsweeps on her, and pulled her out into ye wind again. .. At 10 A. M. Passeda remarkable rock with a hole in it. Latitude 39 degrees 10 minutes 0seconds south. "Sunday, 6th December. At 3 P. M. Saw Cape Liptrap bearingnorth-north-west distance 6 or 7 miles. .. Stood in round Phillip Islandand by 8 A. M. Got close up with Grant's Point and Seal Island. "Monday, 7th December. At 5 P. M. A breeze sprung up at south-west. Stoodin for the entrance with all sail and the sweeps. At 6 P. M. Gainedentrance and passed between Grant's Point and Seal Island which islandseemed as full of seals as when we were last there, a circumstance thatalmost made me conclude that neither the Harrington or Mr. Rushford* (*Presumably Mr. Rushworth. ) had been here. Kept standing up the harbourwith a south-west wind, at 7 came to anchor in Elizabeth's Cove in 6fathoms water with the small bower; lowered down the gig and I went onshore to observe if any signs of strangers were to be seen. Saw nothingto make me think the cove had been visited since we left in May last, inshort the only difference was that the land appeared in a higher state ofverdure now than it was at that time. At 4 A. M. Out launch and sent thefirst officer and five armed men to the river for fresh water. .. At 10A. M. Stood further up the harbour. "Tuesday, 8th December. At 4 P. M. Came to an anchor off Lady Nelson'sPoint and I went on shore and shot a few birds. At 2 P. M. Came on board;up anchor and ran over into 2 fathoms water as near the mouth of river aspossible. A. M. I went in the gig to Churchill's Island and there foundeverything as we left it--I mean the remains of our fires and huts; thewheat and corn that Lieutenant Grant had sown in April last was in fullvigour, 6 ft. High and almost ripe--the onions also were grown into seed;the potatoes have disappeared--I fancy that the different animals thatinhabit the island must have eaten or otherwise destroyed them. I regretnot having time or men to spare to clear a large spot and sow the wheatalready grown, as the next crop would be large. I never saw finer wheator corn in my life, the straw being very near as large as youngsugar-cane. "Wednesday, 9th December. At 1 P. M. The first officer in the launchreturned on board with a load of water; on his examining the river hereported that everything seemed the same as when we left it--a strongpresumption that no vessel had been there, as naturally they would havereplaced their water. The river has been flooded since last April, as atemporary hut we built was found with part of the bank washed away; thebanks of the river were found all in a high state of verdure and in manyplaces the view is truly romantic and wild. No signs of native canoes orhuts have been discovered, indeed, there is less appearance of nativesnow than when we were here last; for then many remains of huts, part of acanoe and their beaten tracks were to be found on all parts of the banksof this little river, all of which have vanished. The party caught andshot 5 pairs of swans, out of which 3 pairs were young, and brought onboard alive, the others were old and we made some fresh meals from them;they also brought on board a pair of young geese which however are veryscarce, but few parrots--the ducks are as shy as ever. .. At 3 P. M. Sentthe second mate to Churchill's Island to cut down the wheat on purpose tofeed the young swans with it, at sundown they returned on board with itin the whole perhaps a bushel in quantity with a good deal mixed withoats and barley all fine of their kind--some potatoes were also found and2 onions. At 8 A. M. The launch returned with a load of water, the officerreported that George Yates had gone to sleep on watch, left the launchdeep loaded in imminent danger of being swamped as the tide rose, andmoreover the whole boat's crew in danger of being surprised by natives ifany should be about, for which crimes I punished him with two dozenlashes this being an old offence of his--I pardoned him three differenttimes some time back for sleeping on his watch at Sydney. .. "Friday, 11th December. The very favourable weather we have had since ourarrival here is to be thanked for enabling us to so soon fill our wateras I expected this business would have detained me 9 or 10 days. At noonran over to Lady Nelson's Point and there anchored in the mouth of SaltWater Lagoon--7 fathoms. "Saturday, 12th December. Sent the first mate up Salt Water Lagoon to getswans; he, however, found none but in afternoon and evening shot twolarge ones at Lady Nelson's Point. P. M. Having discovered that RobertWarren had laid an infamous plan to get the first mate, Mr. Bowen, brokeand otherwise disgraced by acquainting me and all the company belongingto the vessel that he was a notorious thief and embezzler of King'sstores, I, upon the fullest and clearest investigation of the matter, finding it to be a most diabolical falsehood put Warren in double ironsintending to deliver him up to the rigour of the civil law on our arrivalat Sydney should a speedier way of sending him not occur during thecruise. A. M. Sent the first mate to the north-west Branch in the gig tolook for water swans and birds. "Sunday, 13th December. At 8 A. M. The first mate returned in the gighaving shot 9 large and small swans, the large ones when fit for useweighed 8 and 9 pounds each. At sunset native fires on ye distant hills. "Monday, 14th December. Sent the first mate and party in a launch tooverhaul the back of Tortoise Point. "Tuesday, 15th December. A. M. Hove up and ran over into Elizabeth's Covewhere we anchored. Sent first mate and boat's crew down to Seal Island toprocure some skins. .. "Wednesday, 16th December. I walked along the beach 6 or 7 miles, but sawno signs of any strangers being here since we left this place. "At 4 P. M. I returned on board, the launch also came on board, theyknocked down a few seals but there was too much surf, in consequence theofficer returned, he reported that no person could have visited thatisland since we left this harbour as the seals were as plentiful as everand several thousand pups lying on shore. As it continued calm all night, and seeing we could proceed to sea this day; I again sent him with aparty to Seal Island to get some of the skins both as specimens forGovernment and for our own uses as several of the people were withouthats or shoes. .. Served out fishing line and 4 hooks to each mess, thecrew of the launch having yesterday caught several rock fish at Grant'sPoint. "Thursday, 17th December. Making ready for sea. Observed that for theseseveral days past the native fires had advanced nearer to us, and thisday saw one fire that could be no more than 4 or 5 miles inland. "Friday, 18th December. At 2 P. M. The first mate and party returned fromSeal Island with some skins which run very small. .. This time the officerfound remains of fires and a number of bamboo pegs, also a club. TheHarrington must have been here, but where she could have lain at anchorwe could not discover; if any place along this beach, it is curious thatnot the least signs of her are to be found--as I walked down from one endalmost to the other. P. M. I sent Bond and Missing, two soldiers, to cutsome more wood, doing which they were fortunate enough to discover aspring of water. .. I went on shore and found on clearing it with our handsthat at once we got 100 gallons of very good water. .. In the morning aspring was found that proved equal to the watering in a few days a lineof battleships. Pleased with this circumstance took a gang of hands onshore and made a good road to it, we also cleared the spring of all thedirt, roots and boughs of fallen and decayed trees that had got intoit. .. We bailed out of it at least 2 or 3 tons of water and found thebottom to be a rock of very large stones collected together. .. In half anhour after it was entirely empty it was again quite full of clear goodwater. We now filled all our empty casks and everything on board thatwould hold water intending to go to sea when the wind would permit. As inthis cove wood is in plenty, and the water is not above 50 yards from theseaside; a vessel of any size may be wooded and watered in two or threedays and ride secure from all wind either close in or further out. It isthe best place in the harbour for any vessel to lay in whether her stayis short or long. .. The soil of this island as far as we have penetratedis very sandy; no black mould is seen, the trees are very small and verydecayed, nor does the small shrubbery grow with much vigour althoughpleasing to the eye; in short this cove and island can supply a ship inabundance with what is generally considered the greatest of her wants yetI fancy it would poorly pay a settler. To-day we saw a fire which I fancycould not have been more than 4 miles from Tortoise Point and perhaps 7from the vessel. "Saturday, 19th December. Finished the pathway to watering-place, havingmade it level and fitto roll butts on. At 5 P. M. Saw a large fire lighted on the oppositebeach nearer the entrance of the harbour, it might be 6 or 7 miles fromthe vessel, and in a little time it was left, and nearer to us, at alittle distance from the beach, another very large fire was made. Expecting from this that in the morning I should be able to speak to themI made a large fire abreast of where we lay, the natives could not missseeing it. In the morning no fires were to be seen which was rather odd, as besides this nearest fire, last night there were several others insight. .. A. M. I got a large board hung up at the entrance of the road tothe well or spring on which was painted, in oil colours, directions forany stranger how to get to the watering-place. .. "Friday, 25th December. At noon suddenly taken with most violent squallat West. .. This hurricane of wind increased so rapidly and with such furythat we were obliged to let go the best bower and till all 3 anchors borethe strain she dragged a little, struck top-gallant-mast. This squallcontinued for 4 hours, then settled into a westerly gale with constantthunder and lightning and at intervals very hard rain and also more seathan I supposed possible in this cove. At 11 P. M. Parted our warp, myuneasiness at this was not a little however the S. B. * (* Small bower, that is the port bower. ) a little relieved by best bower held on atnight. .. "Saturday, 26th December. From noon till 3 P. M. The gale continued toincrease and a sea got up still higher than it had yet been at any timesince the gale began. .. Made all as snug as possible for riding out thegale, the hardest by far I ever saw in this country, and as it blew deadon the shore outside nothing less than the greatest providence could havesaved us had we got to sea either of the times I attempted it. Athalf-past 6 P. M. A lull with the appearance of good weather. .. 7 P. M. Theweather looking very bad, made a run for Lady Nelson's Point, the galefollowing us as hard as ever, at half-past 9 came to an anchor off LadyNelson's Point--at noon gale continued, however, we felt little here aswe lay right under the land. "Sunday, 27th December. Between hours of 12 and 2 A. M. Having caughtHenry Willis and JohnMissing asleep in their watch, put both in irons. . 8 A. M. Vesseldrove. .. She tailed in on amudbank, which obliged us to weight the best bower and with the long boatlay it ahead to heave her off. At noon hove into 1/2 2 fathoms. "Monday, 28th December. Wind at south-west at 3 P. M. .. Up anchor and ranto leeward of Lady Nelson's Point. "Tuesday, 29th December. Winds at south-west. Shifted to north-west andfreshened into a gale with cloudy weather: thus has this kind of weatherbound us here this last 12 days. .. Sent the first mate and a party to seeand shoot some birds. "Wednesday, 30th December. First part the wind veered to south-west andblew so hard that we were obliged to give her the long service of thecable although we lay under the land and not half a mile from it. Nofires have been seen these last three or four days. "Thursday, 21st December. First and middle parts fine weather--at 3 P. M. Seeing a number of swans near Churchill's Island, sent the First Mate inthe boat to see and get some of them; he was lucky enough to catchsix. .. Up anchor and run down into Elizabeth's Cove. At half-past 6 P. M. Came to an anchor in 7 fathoms. By half-past 7 P. M. Got on board two or300 gallons of water and some wood. The well was in fine order, overflowed and water clear. We here discovered another spring the banksof which were covered with water-cresses and wild blackberries, got someof both on board. I had intended going inland on the island some way, this was baffled by a strong wind coming from west-north-west which threwthe sea into the cove--not at all pleasant. I therefore up anchor andagain ran up under Lady Nelson's Point. "Friday, 1st January 1802. All this 24 hours it has been blowing a hardgale. .. The New Year was ushered in with us splicing the main brace andthree cheers; by the weather with a black squall of wind and rain. Released Robert Warren. "Saturday, 2nd January. Strong gales with hard squalls, later cloudy. Newslung our two Nun buoys; sent officer and some hands to cut wood. Observed fire a long way off in north-east Branch. "Sunday, January 3rd. P. M. Sent the 1st Mate with 4 hands in launch tothe River to try for some birds. "Monday, 4th January. Variable weather. At 2 P. M. The launch returned. Wehave got at last some knowledge of the natives of this part of thecountry. The following is the substance of the report of Mr. Bowen, 1stMate:-- "At 7 A. M. Left the head of Fresh Water River having in vain looked forsome of the crowned birds, and having been able to shoot nothing (a fewducks excepted), having proceeded down the river, and being nearlyhalf-way on board he observed a fire lighted on the beach betweenCrownhead and the entrance of the River and thinking it could be nothingbut natives he immediately put back to prove this. As the boat approachedthe beach these blacks were perceived sitting in the same form as thoseof Sydney, and each of them had a bundle of spears in their hands. Ourpeople hallowed them which they instantly answered and did not seem atall alarmed on the nearer approach of the boat, three boys made theirappearance. As between the beach and the boat there lay a bank of mudabout 200 yards across, Mr. Bowen could not get quite so close as hecould wish, however, he singly got out and began to walk towards them, which when they perceived, they jumped upon their feet and it was nowperceived that one of them was a very old man with a large bushy beardand the rest of his face besmeared with red ochre. The others were youngmen. They were all clothed with the skins of oppossums as far as theirmiddle, and this old man seemed to have command over the others. As Mr. Bowen advanced they all pulled off their dress and made signs to theofficer that before he came any nearer he must do the same; this wasimmediately complied with. "They then all sat down again and Mr. Bowen, plucking a root of fern, advanced pretty close to them holding it up; they seemed to understand itas it was meant. When he got within a few yards of this party the old manseemed rather uneasy and began to handle his spears. Mr. Bowen then threwthem a tomahawk, and one of the young men picked it up; on Mr. Bowenbeckoning them to sit down, he doing the same, they again threw him backthe tomahawk, and all except the old man sat down. Mr. Bowen then broke apiece of stick and cut it with the tomahawk and tyed a handkerchief to itand again reached it to them; on this, one of the young men ventured toreach his hand and take it out of the officer's but would by no means beso familiar as to shake hands. Mr. Bowen then ate some bread and thengave them some which they did not eat, but carefully laid it by undersome fern roots or leaves; on getting some ducks they took no othernotice of them than to examine in what manner they were killed, whattheir ideas on that head were we know not as they did not take the leastnotice of our firearms even when, towards the latter end of the parley, it was found necessary to point one at the breast of the old man who allalong was very suspicious of our designs. "All this time they expressed a good deal of wonder at the colour of Mr. Bowen's skin, and one of the young men made very significant signs to himthat he must have washed himself very hard. They now made signs for Mr. Bowen to go back to the boat and pointed down along the beach to CrownHead. Mr. Bowen accordingly went into the boat and pulled down as theywalked, after pulling about 1 1/2 miles they stopped and beckoned for theboat to come in--here 3 women made their appearance each with a child ather back. Mr. Bowen went on shore here, little passed on either sidefurther than on Mr. Bowen asking for fire to warm himself. They pointedto the boat and made signs for him to go there and get it the womensometimes shook their hands to him, and the boys laughing and hooping. Afew more trifles were here given to them. A little before this all ourpeople got out of the boat stark naked as was desired and walked somewhatnear the natives, on which the old man sent the boys away to the women, and he, after having been in a great passion, made signs for us to go tothe boat, began to retire with his face to us and brandishing his spearas that everyone thought he would heave it, when our people turned theirbacks the young men seemed more quiet. As we saw that all hope of furtherintercourse for the present was at an end Mr. Bowen ordered Bond to firehis piece over their heads in order to make good his retreat to the boat. This had the desired effect, as they one and all were out of sight in aninstant. Before this they must have taken the musket for nothing but astick. All the weapons they possessed were their spears (of a small size)and a stone tomahawk along with the wumera they throw with. With respectto their size the young men were much the same as those of Sydney orJarvis Bay. They were not deficient in making out our signs, and we wereeasy able to understand from their motions what they would be at. Fromthere being but little food for them on the beaches here, and their beingclothed in the skins of the oppossums, I presume they are Bush natives, the women, I forgot to mention, appeared to be middling well shaped, andgood-looking children, they were, however, always at some distance. "Mr. Bowen and the people having joined the boat came on board. Observedall the remainder of the day they retired back into the woods and about 6P. M. Dous'd their fire at once although it must have covered an acre ofground. At 4 A. M. A light wind sprung up at east, got our kedge hoveshort, loosed sails and hove up--made sail for Elizabeth's Cove. .. " "Tuesday, 5th January. Winds from south-east to east with cloudy weather. At quarter past 1 P. M. Cape Shank bore north-east by north 9 miles. Keptrunning down along the land steering west and west by north in order totraverse the whole of this land, found it impossible to survey any partof the coast as yet from the numerous native fires which covered this lowshore in one volume of smoke. At 3 P. M. * (* i. E. 3 P. M. On January 4th bythe civil reckoning. See above note. ) we saw ahead land bearingwest-north-west distant 12 miles, and an opening in the land that had theappearance of a harbour north-west 10 or 12 miles, bore away for thislast it having the appearance of fine steady weather. .. Accordingly keptstanding down for this entrance which every minute from its appearancemade us sure it was a good harbour. * (* The entrance to Port Phillip;Murray returned here January 30th. ) At 5 P. M. Saw a small island in theentrance and observed that between it and the main lay a reef. .. The 1stMate and the the Boatswain's Mate at the masthead looking out. At thistime I suppose we were within 1 1/2 miles of the entrance. .. And Iperceived that the sea broke short and was withal heavy--hove the leadand found only 10 fathoms water. .. Astonished at this, I hauled our windand called out to them at the masthead to know if they saw any danger, but none was seen. I bore away and deepened into 11 fathoms when Mr. Bowen called out "Rocks ahead, " immediately hauled our wind and stoodoff. .. Going often to the masthead I saw that the reef did nearly stretchacross the whole way, but inside saw a sheet of smooth water of greatextent. From the wind blowing dead on this shore, I was obliged to hauloff to clear the land, but with a determination to overhaul it as nodoubt it has a channel into it and is apparently a fine harbour of largeextent. Kept pressing sail and by 8 P. M. The extremes of land bore fromnorth-west to west distance 20 miles. .. The wind blew about as much as ourvessel likes and I am convinced that no vessel would have done more--Iwish I could say as much for her in light winds. .. At daylight the hazeover the land at east, and east-north-east with a heavy sea. I did notlike to bear down on a lee shore and so kept our wind stretching for thewesternmost side of the bay. .. No part of this bay as yet has beensurveyed owing to the sea, wind and the before-mentioned numerous firesof the natives, but as our courses and distance were all with a free windtill we hauled off. .. There will be no great mistake found in that part ofthis bay laid down. Till 8 P. M. From our run from Western Port the soilof all the land from abreast of Elizabeth's Cove to Cape Shanks isexcellent; after you round Cape Shanks and stand to west the land isinvariably low and sandy with little hummocks here and there of grass andsmall bushes till you get down as far as this supposed harbour; on theopposite side the land gently rises a little for about 10 or 12 miles, seemingly good ground, it then sweeps away in a long bight of low landwhich we could just perceive at sundown. .. At noon saw the distantappearance of land on our larboard beam and from latitude observed 38degrees 48 minutes 14 seconds, I take it to be somewhere near about CapeShanks; bore away for Cape Albany Otway. Altitudes for Time-keeper onegiving Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds and the secondLongitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 45 seconds east. All these 24 hourssound ground from 45 to 33 fathoms. Sand mixed with shells and brownspecks. "Wednesday, 6th January. Kept running for Cape Albany and by 7 P. M. Having nearly run into its latitude stood off and on during night. In themorning it was very hazy otherwise would have seen the land. At half-past9 A. M. Saw Cape Albany, bearing west-north-west 10 or 12 miles distanceand Cape Danger north-west 16 or 17 miles; both these capes marked withwhite sandy front and middling high, all the land between is sandy hillsand long sandy beach, as also what part of the land we saw stretchinginto Portland Bay. Ground invariably mixed with shells and brown specks, sometimes a little gravel, till the last time when we had 24 fathoms finesand. At the time Cape Albany bore 26 or 27 miles. At noon hauled ourwind for Harmingar Rock* (* Harbinger. ) but owing to heavy sea and winddid not make better than south-east course--the vessel labouring andpitching a great deal. "Thursday, 7th January. From noon till 5 P. M. Strong winds atnorth-north-east and a confused heavy sea. .. This weather settled intohard gale at south-west by 7 a tumultuous sea up and we laboured much andlurched very heavy. At 6 A. M. It cleared--set sails, out all reefsintending to make Governor King's Island while this clear weathercontinued; as it will be seen, unfavourable winds and weather hasprevented me either tracing coast from Cape Shanks to Cape Albany, asafter making Cape Albany from being able to run a straight course toHarminger Rock; both of these points will be attempted. "Friday, 8th January. Altitude 145 degrees 07 minutes 15 seconds--thisconfirmed me that we must have been driven eastward. "Saturday, 9th January. Saw the loom of the land from the masthead whichI take to be Governor King's Island--its southernmost point bore S. W. S. Distant 16 miles. We could only see it now and then as the squalls passedover. Kept working to this land which I rather think is part of the samethat on the 6th I saw and supposed it to be the northernmost cape, CapeDanger, and another Cape Albany. I. .. Will in making circuit easily knowthem, both being sandy bluffs. "Sunday, 10th January. Kept all night working up to land and by 7 A. M. Got within 6 miles of the body of the island; kept edging down along it a4 or 5 miles distance; the land in general high and covered with brushand now and then spots of large trees very tall. At 8 A. M. We saw tworocks we had passed at 7 A. M. --make out exactly like 2 boats under sail, they are both very near the land. .. As we kept running down along the landI saw a low point of rock make out with a good deal of surf and the landlay so far back that I concluded at least a deep bight must bethere--this proved true, as we rounded it the swell of the sea whichbefore was high greatly took off and although the wind blew hard yet asit was off shore. .. Lowered the boat and sent Mr. Bowen and two good handsin her on shore. .. At half-past 11 the weather looking worse instead ofbetter made a signal for our boat which they noticed and came off--bynoon they got on board, and Mr. Bowen reported that wood and excellentwater was in abundance, that safe anchorage and good ground was closeinto the beach--the soil is middling good, in short, it is an excellentplace to take shelter in from all worst winds that blow in thiscountry. .. Latitude of this bight is 40 degrees 00 minutes 09 secondssouth and Longitude 143 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds east. "Monday, 11th January. Running along shore at a distance of 4 miles at 1P. M. Saw a rock bearing west distant 10 miles and a low pointnorth-north-west 9 or 10 miles--as we run down, this point still makingout made us begin to think that we should here find a bay or harbour. By2 P. M. We completely opened it and saw it was a bay of large extent andfine shelter. .. Where we came to anchor. Found the tide of flood runningto the Westward nearly done (4 P. M. )--the different parts of the bay boreas follows: Elephant Rock* (* (Note in log. ) So named from resemblance tothat animal. ) north by east distant at 5 miles north part of the baynorth 1/2 west distant 6 miles--the bottom of bay west-north-west 2 1/2miles distant and the south point of ditto south-south-east, or 4 miles. I now went on shore, found a good deal of surf on the beach till we goton the southern side. .. Here we landed and the first thing we saw was anumber of sea elephants* (* The Phoca proboscidea of Peron. ) of animmense size lying asleep on the beach, each of them, Barnes theboatswain's mate told me, would make 8 or 9 barrels of oil; as we roweddown the shore we took them to be bluish rocks. We found along this beachtwo freshwater lagoons full of those animals which made it tastebrackish. .. We could not get near the upper part of them on account of thenumber of elephants playing in them both. I named the bay Elephant Bayfrom this circumstance. "Tuesday, 12th January. Boat returned on board, they caught 4 badgers andsaw several kangaroos, but were not able to get any from the thickness ofthe brush--they also found feathers of emus and a dead one. Snakes arehere, as the skin of one was found. We got several gallons of elephantoil out to-day as a specimen to Government and for our own use. .. Somewood growing here reported different to any seen before. .. "Wednesday, 13th January. Received some specimens of wood and some water. At half-past 10 up and run out of bay, hoisted in gig, running downshore; surveyed as well as weather would permit. "Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4miles off and surveying it. At 4 P. M. Having run as far as North-WestPoint, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have donenothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P. M. Dropped kedge with thewarp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it verywell, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to hereis rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all thisdistance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles fromElephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be wellmistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east bycompass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in themouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravelmixed with broken shells. .. At 7 A. M. Got nearly as far as the secondrocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an islandbearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front tothe sea and foul ground--breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way. Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a lowisland is seen and due south the furthest point of land--it appearsaltogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breezethat can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found heremight chance to run her upon one rock or another. .. "Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P. M. Tacked in shoreand at 4 P. M. Shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles ofthe sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore toexamine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54minutes east. At half-past 6 P. M. The boat got on board. Mr. Bowen toldme that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs wereentirely sand, no shells were on the beach--inland he said the soil wasgood--he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not begot at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going upone of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which hethinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island. I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the otherside of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit usto go round. "Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A. M. Breeze from north-east, hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A. M. Made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it andsounding every half-hour. .. From 10 to 11 A. M. Standing in for land. Theweather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low pointseemed to form a kind of entrance. .. Into a deep bight or bay, a reef ofrocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close alongthe edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place. Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses andelephants. The appearance of this place being favourable. .. Stood furtherin and perceived it was a deep bay. "Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P. M. Came to anchor--the bottom coarsesand--from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles. .. We sounded everypart of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P. M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity onshore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo, emus, badgers, etc. , some few shells were found, no water seen as yet. After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered itimpossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of waterbeing here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight andsurprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least wascovered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all alongthe beach and playing in the water. At 7 P. M. I came on board. A seawatch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever sincewe made this island. .. At midnight the wind increasing made sail out ofthe bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A. M. Came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed thisisland from its north-west and west points to its south-west points beingin length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that haveblown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they haveenabled me to strictly search every part of the island betweenaforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remainsteady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part ofthe island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from thisfine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in thisjournal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full ofanimals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil(if I may be allowed the expression) and this part of the island has twogood bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel mayanchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east ornorth-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discoverythe Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it, and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks. "Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but withlong lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls thanI have yet seen in this country (the Western Port gale excepted) and itis with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vesselhas rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable--a proof of thegoodness of the holding ground. .. At 8 the boat brought on board a turn ofwater and 2 kangaroo were caught--the increase of the gale hindered theboat from returning on shore. "Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P. M. The gale continued. Bysundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board. .. A wambuckwas caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship's company. "Thursday, 21st January. A. M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rockwith directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over inthe vessel. "Friday, 22nd January. P. M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen foundthe soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms. This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirelycovered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, theremight be 6 or 7, 000 seals of different sizes on shore. A. M. Sent boat toElephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water. "Saturday, January 23rd. P. M. The launch returned with some sealskins ofprime fur and I was told that the Rock was full of mutton-birds, inconsequence of this I had the boat on shore and procured 80 or 90 ofthem, served ditto to the people. "Sunday, January 24th. Throughout this 24 hours the weather has beenremarkably thick and hazy. .. Stood off and on till 4 P. M. .. Then we madesome sail to get sight of land if possible before dark and by 8 P. M. Sawthe north-west point of the Bay of Seals being north by west distant 5miles, 2 Seal Rocks distant 6 miles north by east. .. At 2 A. M. Found thevessel close to the breakers and a strong ripple of a current with a veryconfused jump of a sea. Tacked and stood off till daylight. By 6 A. M. Wesaw the distant looming of the land, bearing north-west, and perceivedthat all round us. .. Lay rocks and dangerous breakers, one bore south-west(a large rock 3 miles) another south-south-west 3 1/2 another south 4miles and one west 5 miles, that one which bore south-south-west, JohnJohnson told me he thought it Harbinger Rock, having seen it when withMr. Black, commander of the Harbinger. At 8 A. M. Made sail to thenorth-east. .. At noon strong winds at south hauled her off East. "Before I close this log it may be proper to observe that from the verylong run of bad weather we have had and being so often baffled in ourattempts to get round the end of the island which is full of danger andmoreover have seen all the land that lies between its north-west and westpoints to its south-west points from which these dangerous rocks andbreakers lie about 7 or 8 miles I now determined to stand off toAlbatross Island in a straight line for this reef for we could notventure too close unto land it having every appearance of a gale fromsouth or south-east either of which blow in on the shore. This reef Inamed Lady Nelson Reef from our so narrowly escaping being on shore onit, this however is only to distinguish it from others for I have not theleast doubt but it is what Mr. Bass gave me a sketch of, the latitude andlongitude so well correspond with his. I fancy also it is what was seenin the Martha schooner in 1799 along with the land, all of which is oneisland. .. Thus we took leave of this large and fine island where thebenevolent hand of Providence has fixed the chief necessaries of life andthe means to procure some of its luxuries. We kept on East expecting itwould soon blow a gale and a heavy sea up. I much lament not having asyet had it in my power from the series of unfavourable weather we havehad so exactly to comply with the Commander-in-Chief's orders as I couldhave wished. "Monday, January 25th. From noon till half-past 1 P. M. We run due east 8miles, we then saw from masthead Hunter's Islands bearing (the middle ofthem) south-south-east distant 5 or 6 leagues. .. Under the lee of ThreeHummock Island in smooth water we laid under easy sail off and on allnight--found the tides here to run very strong. In the morning I sentboat on shore with the First Mate and 2 hands, by noon they returnedhaving shot 2 ducks and found a spring of water, some small kangaroo wereseen but not worth shooting even could they have been got at. Thefootsteps of a man were seen on shore, perhaps one of the Harrington'sLascars as the foot was measured and found very small. The shores of thisisland are bold rock and some dangerous reefs lie off it, one of which (asunken one) we did not escape by 10 yards. .. Lady Nelson's Reef iseast-south-east and west-north-west distance about 30 miles in Latitude40 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds south and Longitude by Time-keeper 145degrees 40 minutes 53 seconds, it has many sandy bights in it where Iwould not scruple to anchor in south-south-west, south-east and eastwinds. "Tuesday, January 26th. At half-past 12 bore away for Elephant Rock. At 5P. M. The south extreme of Three Hummock Island bore south by eastdistance 19 or 20 miles. .. At sundown extremes of Governor King's Islandbore south-west to west by north distance 11 or 12 miles. At 8 P. M. Shortened sail and threw her head off shore intending to have lain offand on all night, this was done. At 4 A. M. Made sail for land and weexactly made Elephant Rock right ahead therefore the distance betweenThree Hummock Island and Elephant Rock is north 65 west distance 44 milestrue by compass north-west by west. We then stood on for the sandy capesor bluffs and by half-past 9 A. M. The largest and perpendicular one boresouth by west distant 8 or 9 miles, this I named Cape Farewell. I took adeparture from it intending to run to Cape Albany (Otway); the wind from4 A. M. Has blown at east-north-east and from that to north-east with itsusual hazy dirty weather, in consequence of which we kept our wind tillnoon to be certain of clearing the shoals and breakers lying off this endof the island. At noon saw the looming of the western end of the islandbearing distant perhaps 12 miles, the direct distance from Mid Hummock ofthat island to Cape Farewell is north 51 degrees west distance 56 milestrue but by compass north-west a little westerly. " CHAPTER 6. THE DISCOVERY OF PORT PHILLIP. On leaving King Island, Murray, on January 30th (civil time), * (* In thischapter civil time is given in the author's observations. The time in thelogs throughout is according to nautical reckoning, i. E. The daybeginning at noon before the civil reckoning. ) returned again to WesternPort and next day, at 4 A. M. He sent Mr. Bowen with 5 men in the launchto examine the harbour to the westward which is now known as Port Phillipand at the head of which stands the city of Melbourne. On Wednesday thelaunch returned and the first mate reported that he had found a goodchannel into the harbour which was "a most noble sheet of water. " He alsoreported that he saw no natives but only their huts. Shortly afterwardsMurray himself entered the newly discovered Port in the Lady Nelson. Murray arrived there on February 14th and anchored at 3. 30 P. M. In asandy cove off a point of the shore which lay distant a quarter of a mileto the south-west. He named a high mountain Arthur's Seat; a cluster ofislands where black swans were plentiful Swan Isles; a bold rocky pointto the east-south-east Point Paterson and a long sandy point PointPalmer. The chart of Port Phillip (Illustration 11) is possibly a reproduction ofthe track of the Lady Nelson's boat when the bay was explored for thefirst time. Arthur's Seat and Watering Place apparently are the onlynames placed on it by Murray* (* It is preserved at the Admiralty. ) asSwan Pond and "Point Repear" are in a different handwriting. At "PointRepear" the long boat of the Lady Nelson may have been repaired or thename may have been written in mistake for Point Nepean, also named byMurray. The following entries describe his coming to Port Phillip. "Wednesday, January 27th. From noon till 8 P. M. Variable winds, hotsultry weather, dull fiery sky and so thick that we could not see above amile ahead; kept making for Cape Albany (Otway). At 8 short sail and hoveto. .. At 4 A. M. The wind settled into a westerly gale attended with heavysqualls and rain. By 9 A. M. It turned into a clear gale and a very highsea up which makes us labour a good deal. Had altitude longitude by then143 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, these agree with the dead reckoningwithin 3 or 4 miles. Latitude 39 degrees 12 minutes 33 seconds. Thisweather has again rendered abortive my plan of getting the direct line ofbearing and distance between Cape Farewell and Cape Albany Otway. I shallonly observe that I never experienced such length of bad weather at anytime of year or in any country since I sailed the seas. "Saturday, January 30th. At half-past 9 A. M. The north point of land borenorth distant 12 miles--made sail for it. At 10 A. M. Perceived withsurprise that it was Cape Shanks and Grant's Point instead of CapeAlbany. I now judged it prudent to send our boat down to overhaul for achannel into the harbour mentioned in the Log of the 5th of this month, accordingly stood in for it and by noon Cape Shanks bore north-westdistant 6 or 7 miles and Grant's Point north-east by east 10 or 11 miles. We had a very heavy swell and perceived the surf about Seal Islandsbreaking in a fearful manner; sounded every hour. "Sunday, January 31st. At 2 P. M. Passed Seal Island. Observed the longrange of breakers on the western side of the Port: several of them hadshifted their berths nearer to mid channel. .. The whole of them forseveral miles broke incessantly and remarkable lofty--we passed within 2miles of them. The reefs on the eastern side also broke much further out. In short the mid channel up this port has (by the immense run of badweather) been made narrower. By 5 P. M. Got to anchor in Elizabeth'sCove. .. Out boats. Got the launch ready for sailing in the morning toexplore the channel of the western harbour before mentioned. I went onshore in the gig. Found the well as we left it full of fine clear waterand our board of directions hanging at the entrance of the pathway. At 4A. M. * (* It will be seen that Bowen left to explore Port Phillip at 4A. M. Of January 31st and not on February 1st. ) I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 5 men armed with 14 days' provisions and water down to thewestward giving him particular instructions how to act both with respectto the harbour and natives should he fall in with any, the substance ofwhich was that in finding a channel into the Port he would take marksproper for coming in with the vessel and immediately return to me and atall times to deal friendly with the natives. It may now be proper toobserve that my intentions are that if a passage into that harbour isfound I will take the vessel down into it and survey it as speedily ascircumstances will allow, from that trace the coast to Cape Albany, fromCape Albany run strait to Cape Farewell and Harbinger Rocks, and if time, after that follow up the remainder of my orders. "Monday, February 1st. .. A. M. I walked along the beach for 8 miles up toLady Nelson's Point and observed that a great variety of birds were inthe brush and their notes very different; flights of white cockatoos ofperhaps 100 were often seen. At Lady Nelson's Point we saw 20 or 30 swansin the salt-water lagoon. .. One and all of the birds we have seen were soshy that. .. We did not shoot one (a single pigeon excepted). The treesalso were all in bloom. I am apt to think that summer does not begin inthis part till January. On penetrating further into this island the soilwas found to be good. "Tuesday, February 2nd. P. M. I sent a hand on shore to the well in orderto see if any birds were to be got by his sitting there a few hourssteady as numbers towards sundown came in to drink. The plan had thedesired effect, 4 pigeons were shot, a dozen of parrots; these latterwere common, I dined on them, the pigeons were preserved. On opening themall were found to feed on seeds of various kinds. "Wednesday, February 3rd. P. M. As I was walking along the pathway to thewell I nearly trod on a snake about 6 feet long, the first we have seenon the island. It made its way into the brush. "Thursday, February 4th. Throughout these 24 hours we have had calms withhot sickly weather and thick fiery haze. At half-past 9 P. M. The launchreturned on board, all well. Mr. Bowen reported that a good channel wasfound into this new harbour, water from 10 fathoms to 6 and about a mileand a half broad, and according to his accounts it is A MOST NOBLE SHEETOF WATER larger even than Western Port, with many fine coves andentrances in it and the appearance and probability of rivers, a number ofshells were found on its beaches--swans, pelicans and birds of varioussorts were seen in great numbers. The boat's crew lived on swans all thetime they were away. "No water was as yet found--the officer having no time to spare, nor nonatives seen but numbers of their huts, in short from such a report as Ihave received and of the truth of which I have no doubt (as the attentionand care of this officer has always been conspicuous) it would beunpardonable in me not to give this new harbour a strict overhaul, in themeantime as it was calm and no appearance of getting out, at 8 A. M. Hoveup and towed the vessel up to Lady Nelson's Point in order to send theboat up the river for birds such plenty of various kinds being on thisisland. At noon dropped our anchor in 6 fathoms, Lady Nelson's Pointbearing west by south half a mile and Crown Head 9 miles north-east byeast and Margaret Island north-east 1/2 north 7 or 8 miles--moored withkedge. "Friday, February 5th. Variable flaws of wind all round the compass thislast 24 hours and hot sultry weather. Employed overhauling our breadwhich we found in good order. A. M. Sent the launch with the First Mateand 4 hands armed up the river to try and shoot some birds, it ought tobe observed that the past two or three days we were here numbers ofnative fires were seen on the coast and up both arms, since then theyhave disappeared. "Monday, February 8th. At 3 P. M. The launch returned, all well, havinggot a live swan, some dead ones and 4 crowned parrots, a single duck wasshot. No fresh water was to be got even at dead low water and up as faras the boat could be pushed between the boughs of the fallen trees. AtA. M. Took up our kedge, weighed our anchor, made sail for Elizabeth'sCove and at half-past 6 A. M. Came to anchor. .. Sent empty cask on shore tocomplete our water--also a party to cut wood, we filled our casks fromthis excellent spring. Longitude by chronometer 145 degrees 13 minutes 53seconds. "Tuesday, February 9th. Calm weather, constant thick fiery haze, veryclose and sultry. By 3 P. M. Secured everything for sea intending to sailin the morning, took a haul of our seine, caught one whiting only and tworemarkable curious fish. "Wednesday, February 10th. P. M. Sighted our Bower anchor suspecting it tobe foul, found it so. Having found a quantity of oysters, mussels andshellfish at low water to-day gave the shore a strict search at low waterand plainly perceived that a company of 6 or 8 men would not run anyhazard of being starved here for several months from the vast quantity ofshellfish to be found. We also have these some days past found feeding onseaweed many hundreds of a very handsome shell very scarce where we werein April last. "Thursday, February 11th. This evening a snake 6 feet long was killed inthe road to the well. "Friday, February 12th. A. M. Hoisted in launch, took up kedge intendingto sail if wind came to anything, it however kept constantly falling calmand then a light air would spring up for a few minutes; this kind ofweather obliged me to keep fast. At noon heard distant thunder around us. "Saturday, February 13th. From 7 P. M. Till 10 P. M. Constant loud thunder, vivid lightning and very hard rain later part, till 9 A. M. Was calm then. A breeze sprung up at east. Hove up our B. * (* Bower, that is anchor. )and hung by the kedge, by this time it fell calm and our hopes of gettingto sea vanished, needless to observe this kind of weather is asdestructive to the intent of this cruise as gales at sea. I took a walkalong the beach far enough to see all the entrances to this port and byascending an eminence was confirmed in my opinion that several of thosedangerous sand rollers had shifted their berths and by so doing hadrendered the channel narrower than hithertofore. "Sunday, February 14th. .. At 5 A. M. Weighed and made all sail down theport, by 8 A. M. Grant's Point bore east by north distant 10 miles andCape Shanks north-west distant 7 miles; kept running down the land. A. M. At half-past 10 South Head of the new Harbour or Port north by east 8miles distant; by noon the island at entrance of harbour bore north halfa mile distant. At this time we had a view of this part of the spaciousharbour, its entrance is wide enough to work any vessel in, but, in 10fathoms. Bar stretches itself a good way across, and, with a strong tideout and wind in, the ripple is such as to cause a stranger to suspectrock or shoals ahead. We carried in with us water from 14 to 16 fathoms. Kept standing up the port with all sail set. "Monday, February 15th. P. M. Working up, the port with a very strong ebbagainst us, we however gained ground. The southern shore of this nobleharbour is bold high land in general and not clothed as all the land atWestern Point is with thick brush but with stout trees of various kindsand in some places falls nothing short, in beauty and appearance, ofGreenwich Park. Away to the eastward at the distance of 20 miles the landis mountainous, in particular there is one very high mountain which inthe meantime I named Arthur's Seat from its resemblance to a mountain ofthat name a few miles from Edinburgh. .. To the north-east by north, about5 miles from the south shore lies a cluster of small rocky islands andall round them a shoal of sand; plenty of swans and pelicans were foundon them when the boat was down, from which I named them Swan Isles. Tothe north-east by east there is an opening, and from our masthead no landcould be seen in it. The northern shores are low with a sandy beach allalong. At half-past 3 P. M. We got to anchor in a sandy cove in 7 fathomswater, bottom fine sand--Swan Isles bearing north-east by north distance5 miles, a bold rocky point which I named Point Paterson east-south-east1 1/2 miles, a long sandy point named Point Palmer west, 1 1/2 miles, andthe nearest point of the shore south-west 1/2 of a mile distant. "I went on shore and walked through the woods a couple of miles. Theground was hard and pleasant to walk on. The trees are at a good distancefrom each other and no brush intercepts you. The soil is good as far aswe may be judges. I saw several native huts and very likely they haveburnt off several hundred acres of ground. Young grass we found springingup over all the ground we walked; the only birds we saw were a fewparrots. We found some shells on the beach and returned on board. I havenamed this harbour Port King* (* Governor King afterwards renamed theharbour Port Phillip in honour of the first Governor of New South Wales. )in honour of Governor P. G. King under whose orders I act. Set a thirdwatch of the people with an officer. In the morning sent the gig to Swanisles for swans and on board we caught a few rock fish. At noon the gigreturned with 3 live and 4 dead swans. "Tuesday, February 16th. After dinner I took a walk through the woods ofthis part of the country, attended by one soldier and our carpenter toexamine the wood. To describe this part I walked through is simply to saythat it nearly resembles a walk on Blackheath and the Park if we set outof question the houses and gardens of the latter. The hills and valleysrise and fall with inexpressible elegance. We discovered no water nor anynew wood of consequence, but it is impossible that a great want of watercan be here from the number of native huts and fires we fell in with inour march. From the top of a high hill I ascended and casting my eyes tothe north-east a large sheet of water was seen which I am inclined tothink is either a harbour or large river; we also perceived that thisport trained away under Cape Shanks. "On our return to the boat Andrew Luck found a perfect nautilus shell; hemade me a present of it, indeed it is but common justice to observe thatthe invariable good, attentive and decent behaviour of this old man eversince he joined this vessel renders him a fit object of mercy. This day afew snappers were caught and some rock fish. At sundown a native fire wasseen about a mile inland, in the morning early I sent Mr. Bowen and Bondarmed to speak them, neither fell in with them. At 9 A. M. Hove up ourBower with a light air at north-east and dropped a few miles further upthe Port. We now saw the same fire just lighted by the natives andpresently perceived several of them come out of the Bush, but the momentthey saw the vessel they sprang into the wood out of sight. At 11 A. M. Wecame to an anchor in 5 fathoms water, handed sails, etc. , as there was anative fire burning a little way inland. "I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 4 hands armed to see if any nativeswere here, and before the boat was half-way on shore we had thesatisfaction of seeing 18 or 20 men and boys come out of the wood andseat themselves down on a green bank waiting the approach of our boatwith which I had sent some shirts and other trifles to give them; theboat accordingly landed in the midst of them and a friendly intercoursetook place with dancing on both sides--in an hour the boat returned. Mr. Bowen had dressed them in our white shirts and invited them on board, this however they declined, but exchanged for all this. Got a basket ofstraw neatly enough made. They were all clothed in the skins of opossumsand each had a bundle of spears, a stone mogo and one basket. They wishedmuch to know what our arms were and their use and did not seem entirelyto believe Mr. Bowen that they were only walking sticks--no women wereamongst them. I sent the boat again with some bread, looking-glasses, tomahawk and a picture as presents to induce them to part with theirweapons and dresses as also to inform us where there was water. This dayall hands put upon two-thirds allowance of bread. "Wednesday, February 17th. Fresh light airs inclinable to calm throughoutthis 24 hours. The boat (as mentioned in latter part of yesterday's log)proceeded to the shore and was as before received in a friendly manner bythe natives, all of whom were seated in a circle on a beautiful spot ofgrass near a high point of land. Mr. Bowen and all the crew consisting of5 men and the boy, Mr. Brabyn, went up with their dinners in their handsand sat down in the midst of them (18 in number) and began to eat showingthe natives how to eat bread, etc. , and gave them anything they chose toask for. Mr. Bowen gave them all the things I had sent as well as severalof his own things--stripping himself almost naked to comply with theirwishes, and his example was followed by the whole of the boat's crew. Asthere was two fine-looking boys amongst them I sent Mr. Brabyn on shorepurposely to see and gain their confidence by his attention to theiryoungsters, both of whom he dressed in his shirts, handkerchiefs, trowsers, etc. "All matters continued in this state while our people had anything togive and all we got was 2 spears, a basket and a mogo and even these theyagain took from the seamen that had them in keeping, this however theofficer took no offence at being determined if at all possible to keep onfriendly terms with them. It was in vain that the officer and crew tryedby signs too significant not to be understood to gain intelligence wherewater was to be found or on what beaches shells were most plentiful, toall such enquiries they turned a deaf ear and only seemed intent ongetting what our people had even to the last shirt; by this time ourpeople had nearly finished their dinners and Isaac Moss having the boatin charge got up and was walking slowly down to her. At this time the BoyBrabyn happened to turn his head towards the wood and saw a man in thevery act of throwing a spear at Moss as well as a large body (not beforeseen) behind a large fallen tree with their spears all in readiness forthrowing. The boy immediately cried out to Mr. Bowen who was at that verytime in the act of serving out bread to all the party he was sittingamong that he would be speared, but before the words were out of hismouth, a spear of a most dangerous kind, was thrown at and did not escapeMoss by a yard and in an instant the whole of the treacherous body thatMr. Bowen and 4 of our people were sitting in the midst of opened out tothe right and left and at once left them all open to the party in ambushwho immediately were on their feet and began to throw spears; still suchwas the forbearance of the officer that only one piece was fired overtheir heads but this was found only to create a small panic, and ourparty were obliged to teach them by fatal experience the effect of ourwalking sticks. "The first fire made them run and one received two balls between hisshoulders, still some of them made a stop to heave; the second fire theyall set off with astonishing speed and most likely one received a mortalwound. Before another piece was fired Mr. Bowen laid hold of one of theirnumber and held on till three of our people came up and also grappledhim, strange to tell he made such violent struggles as to get away fromthem all nor did the contents of the officer's piece bring him upalthough one ball passed through his arm and the other in the side--hewas traced a good distance by his blood--the remaining pieces were bythis time fired and our party gave chase to them all. "On board I kept a strict look-out with the glass and we lay only alittle more than a quarter of a mile off the point where they were seatedon. I plainly saw the natives running through the wood which was by nomeans thick--one fellow in particular had been dressed in one of my whiteshirts and the officer had tyed the wrists of it with string, whichhindered his getting it off--him we plainly saw from the vessel pass theroots of black trees with such speed as more to resemble a large whitebird flying than a man. To increase their panic as they passed along Igave them a discharge of our guns loaded with round and grape but amalmost certain that they did them no damage; by this time our peoplereturned from the chase, having found on the way back a number of spears, dresses and baskets, etc. Made the boat signal and they came off. "Thus did this treachery and unprovoked attack meet with its justpunishment and at the same time taught us a useful lesson to be morecautious in future. With respect to the size of these natives they aremuch the same as at Sydney, their understanding better though, for theyeasily made out our signs when it answered their purposes or inclination. When it did not they could be dull enough. They were all clothed inopossum skins and in each basket a certain quantity of gum was found. Notthe least sign of a canoe has been seen. I conclude they live entirelyinland, and if we may judge from the number of their fires and othermarks this part of the country is not thin of inhabitants. Their spearsare of various kinds and all of them more dangerous than any I have yetseen. The workmanship of their dresses, their lines and baskets are farfrom despicable, their mogo or stone axes are such as common at Sydney. "In the afternoon the boat went to Swan Isles and caught three live swansof a large size, and in the morning the launch went with Mr. Power and aparty well armed to sound for a channel round which the vessel might sailin order to survey the port. Usefully employed on board. Latitude 38degrees 20 minutes south. "Thursday, February 18th. Pleasant weather throughout. The launchreturned having been fortunate enough to discover. .. Fresh water and achannel all round this part of the Port from 10 to 14 fathoms. I took along range through the woods attended with an armed party. We discoverednothing new but found several of the things we gave the natives which intheir fright they had dropped. The ground we walked over was open and thesame as before described, with good soil. The tide where we lie flowsfull and changes at 3 hours in the afternoon, and its perpendicular riseis about 6 feet up and down. "Friday, February 19th. Another overhaul of the woods took place butnothing (not before mentioned) was found. Numbers of native tracks, firesand huts were seen. One native fire in sight on Arthur's Seat distantabout 10 miles. "Saturday, February 20th. Sent an armed party and our carpenter a longrange through the woods to try the different kinds of wood, none howeverwas found of use, the trees being almost invariably oak and other woodquite common at Sydney. A red waistcoat of Mr. Brabyn's was found withsome bread in each pocket, in this he had dressed one of the native boys, who in his fear left it I fancy, as soon as he had found how to get itoff, for it was buttoned on him. "Sunday, February 21st. Finding we could not move higher up the port withthe vessel I sent the launch over the western side to examine the passageinto a harbour or river I saw from the hill on 16th inst. "Monday, February 22nd. At noon the launch returned, having found anentrance into the sheet of water they were sent to overhaul, but only athigh water, 7 or 8 feet of it, consequently no harbour for shipping. Theboat proceeded a mile and a half, and, in running that, caught 20 swansof a large size without wasting one charge of shot, which by-the-bye isnow become a scarce article, not above 3 or 4 pounds being in the vessel;however from the report made of this place it may lead to something ofmore consequence. I shall after the survey of the Port is completed giveit a good overhaul. I must mention here that both our boats are now insuch a state of decay from age and constant mending and patching thatthey both keep a hand constantly bailing when pulling or sailing, thiscircumstance it is needless to mention in a certain degree retards ourproceedings. "Tuesday, February 23rd. I went in the launch and sounded a few miles ofthe Port up towards the watering place. The soundings were 9 feet to 6fathoms, bottom fine sand, further out perhaps a deeper channel may exist(this will be ascertained in the survey). Afterwards we walked throughthe country some distance, found the soil invariably good, the groundalmost clear and the ranges of trees as regular as they are in general inthe Park, with fine strong short grass underfoot. "Wednesday, February 24th. First part of these 24 hours had a great dealof thunder and lightning and rain, middle and latter parts it blew a hardgale at south-west with squalls at intervals. We held on although allataunto with the small bower and one-third of a cable out, a proof of thegoodness of the holding ground. "Thursday, February 25th. First part the gale continued, latter fairwinds. Observed several very large native fires at the foot of Arthur'sSeat and on the western side of the port, hauled our seine several timesalong the shore nearest us but caught no fish owing probably to therebeing flats of sand lying off them to the distance of 200 yards. "Friday, February 26th. Examined the beach and land for about 8 miles. A. M. Sent our long boat on shore, turned her up and set our carpenter towork on her, she leaking so much as to keep a hand constantly bailing, and our small boat is so bad as to render it hazardous to go any distancefrom the vessel in her. "Saturday, February 27th. Fine weather and moderate winds. Both boatssounding and on survey of harbour. A number of very large native fires onthe hills round the eastern and western shores of the Port have been seenthese two days past. Sent Mr. Bowen and Mr. Brabyn in the gig to get theLatitude of the north end of Swan Isles and at noon I got the Latitude ofa point about 7 miles North and South of them from which a base line wasgot for the survey of the harbour. "Sunday, February 28th. Gave some of the people liberty on shore. "Monday, March 1st. At 5 A. M. Took up our kedge, hove short, loosed sailsand sheeted home the top-sails, weighed and made sail up the port, intending to run as high as the watering place. The wind in a little timeflied away and the tide ran so rapid as to sweep the vessel on a shoal ofsand with only 5 feet of water on it, as it was perfectly smooth weimmediately hove her off without her sustaining the least damage anddropped back into our old berth between Point Paterson and Bowen's Pointso named from Mr. Bowen's skirmish with the natives in it. The flies arenow so troublesome as to almost hinder a person from sitting a moment inone place. "Tuesday, March 2nd. Employed getting on board stones for ballast andstowing them away. At 4 A. M. Sent the longboat for a turn of water and tosound that part of the harbour between the vessel and it; by noon shereturned on board with a turn of water, it was found that a bank of sandlay from shore to the distance of a mile or a mile and a quarter withonly, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 feet on it at low water and it extends nearly 4miles along shore. When you have passed this there is from 5 to 9 fathomswater abreast of the watering place, there is however little doubt of adeep channel being outside of this shoal, and this point will beascertained in the course of to-morrow. "Thursday, March 4th. P. M. The launch returned on board with a turn ofwater but had not been able to find a channel for vessel of any draughtof water though she stood well out from the shore to at best 3 miles. This bank has only from 4 to 8 feet water on it and in many places is notabove a hundred yards broad. "Friday, March 5th. I went in the launch in search of a channel by whichvessels of a larger draught than ours might be got up abreast of thewatering place and was fortunate enough to find one a mile at least inbreadth lying off the southern shores of this Port about 3 miles andhaving from 16 to 6 fathoms water in at low water and neap tides; and inthis water a vessel of any draught may be secure from all winds at abouta mile and a half from the spring at which to-day I loaded the boat withwater and examined it. As far as we are judges it is most excellent wateras clear as crystal--lies from the beach about 10 or a dozen yards andplenty of it to water the Grand Fleet of England; it is nearer theentrance than the foot of Arthur's Seat by about 2 miles, and can easilybe found out by the land which for a few miles before you come to it islow whereas all the other land on both sides is high with bold points; ifa boat then East or east by south from Point Paterson 9 miles puts intothe shore they will not be far off it, there is plenty of duck about it, but so shy that only two have been shot, a circumstance we did not alittle regret as they exceed in flavour any I ever eat. We are nowcomplete in water and will soon be wooded. "Saturday, March 5th. Employed on board fitting new waist-cloths, theothers being decayed and her sides and bends being very bare I gave thema coat of red (the only colour we had on board) and blacked the bends andupper works. A. M. I went in the launch over to the sheet of water* (*Mentioned on 22nd. ) (as I intended) with an armed boat's crew and by noongot to its entrance. This day has been so clear that we are able to seethe land all round the Port and in many places very high headlands. Inthose low places, where we could not be certain of the land by the eyethere were numerous native fires and some of them very large. "Sunday, March 7th. By one P. M. I got into the sheet of water and bypulling all round it found it to be very extensive but, in no place morethan 6 feet water and the greatest part of it so shoal as to ground theboat. In the entrance at one place there is a small channel of about 50or 60 feet in breadth with 9 feet to 2 1/2 fathoms water in, but of nouse as it shoals to a couple of feet before you get in. The soil of theland all round the extensive place is good and its appearance exceeds inbeauty even the southern shores. The number of large swans seen almostexceeds belief, but by this time most of them could fly, we caught 11--10of which were large. All of us slept this night on a pleasant littleisland with a few handsome trees on it, soil good and so clear as to befit for the hoe at once, I named it Maria Isle after a sister I lost someyears past. "Monday, March 8th. As we now intended sailing in a few days I judged itconsistent with His Majesty's instructions (a copy of which I wasfurnished with from the Governor and Commander-in-Chief of New SouthWales) to take possession of this port in the form and manner laid downby the said instructions, and accordingly at 8 o'clock in the morning theUnited Colours of the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland were hoistedon board and on Point Paterson, and at one o'clock under a discharge of 3volleys of small arms and artillery the Port was taken possession of inthe name of his Sacred Majesty George the Third of Great Britain andIreland, King, etc. , etc. Served double allowance of grog. In theafternoon I went on shore attended with an armed party and passed theremainder of the day about and under the colours flying on shore, atsundown hauled down the colours on board and ashore. "Tuesday, March 9th. Employed getting ready for sea. Overhauled our keelsfore and aft, cleaned them. We have now expended 19 weeks and one day'sprovisions out of 24 weeks. We were victualled for commencing on 27thOctober 1801 and owing to the quantity of bread decayed, along with whatthe swans and other birds have eaten, we are rather short, even what wehave left is very bad, therefore it will not be in my power at this timeto prosecute the object of our cruise much further. It is in vain Iregret so little being done in such a length of time, the weather andother circumstances have been rather against us the whole cruise, howeverthe little that is performed of the original instructions is prettyaccurate and I trust will give the Commander-in-Chief some satisfaction. "Wednesday, March 10th. For these last two or three days great numbers ofnative fires have been seen all round the Port except between Arthur'sSeat and Point Palmer. "Thursday, March 11th. At 7 weighed and made sail down the port by 8 A. M. With a strong tide of ebb running out we got into the entrance carryingall the way from 9 to 16 fathoms water, we then fell into such a ripplethat we expected every minute it would break on board--got clear and byhalf-past the point of entrance bore north-east by east 4 miles and aremarkably high nob of land (if not an island) west-north-west 4 or 5miles, by noon the entrance north-east by west 9 or 10 miles. . .. Wednesday, March 24th. Fine weather though inclined to calm. At half-past3 P. M. South Head bore south-south-west the North distant 4 or 5 miles. At 4 P. M. Passed Bradley's Head, at 6 passed Garden Island and byhalf-past 6 P. M. Came to an anchor in Sydney Cove with the best bower, moored with the kedge. The Commander waited on His Excellency theGovernor and Commander-in-Chief. " Murray's voyage ended on March 24th, and on the same day he waited onGovernor King at Sydney, with the news that his orders had been carriedout. The Governor must have been greatly pleased, and the more so becauseonly a month later the French ship Naturaliste put into Port Jackson. * (*The French ships Geographe and Naturaliste had left France in October1800 on a voyage of discovery. ) Hamelin, who commanded her, was, however, in sore straits. He had parted from Commodore Baudin in a gale off VanDieman's Land and had traversed the whole of Bass Strait without meetingthe Geographe, his boats having visited Western Port* only a month afterMurray had left there. (* French Island preserves the memory of theirvisit, but Murray's Chart shows that the English (contrary to Peron'sassertions) knew that this island was separated from the mainland beforethe coming of the French. ) Finding his provisions exhausted, in hisextremity the French Commander, although he knew that France and Englandwere at war, steered to Sydney. The English, we are told, received himwith noble and large-minded (grande et Loyale) liberality, and the sickFrench sailors were received at the Government Hospital. Hamelin wasbusily engaged in replenishing his ship when Captain Matthew Flindersarrived in H. M. S. Investigator on May 9th and was able to give him newsof his consort which he had met in Encounter Bay. Flinders also informedCaptain Hamelin that Baudin had said that it was his intention to proceedto the Isle of France. The Naturaliste therefore, hastened herpreparations and sailed from Sydney on May 18th. In the meantime the Lady Nelson had been to the Hawkesbury and backagain, arriving on April 21st and bringing a cargo of wheat and somecedar logs. The remarks in the log may prove of value to those who studythe early history of the Colony, for Murray gives the names of thedifferent reaches in the river, and it would be interesting to knowwhether these old place-names are still used. Murray does not tell us ofthe arrival of the Naturaliste, though he must have been in Sydney then, but various entries show that the brig conveyed the Governor and hisparty to the Naturaliste's anchorage in Neutral Bay to visit CaptainHamelin and brought them to Sydney again. Another voyage to the Hawkesbury River was carried out, and then the shipwas put into preparation for a voyage of exploration, in company with theInvestigator, to the North coast. MURRAY'S LOG. Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury. "Thursday, April 1st. Fine weather. Getting ready for sea. At half-past 5A. M. Up kedge and weighed and turned out of ye cove. The Cumberland gotunder way and proceeded down the harbour. At 8 A. M. (We having theCumberland in company) cleared the heads of Port Jackson, and athalf-past 8 parted with Cumberland, leaving her with a fine moderatebreeze at south-south-east, and by half-past 9 she bore Sydney 4 or 5miles. By 11 A. M. Got abreast of Barren Jowie* (* Barrenjoey. ) and bynoon passed Pittwater, here we found at anchor Mr. Commissary Palmer'svessel the George. "Friday, April 2nd. Proceeding up Harbour and by 2 P. M. Came to anchorunder Mullet Island, in the evening Raby's boat passed us, and in alittle time after we hailed and brought alongside a fishing boat withthree soldiers in her, at 8 P. M. She left us. A. M. Got under way and atthe end of tide came to in the westernmost end of Spectacle Reach. "Saturday, April 3rd. At 3 P. M. Got under weigh and proceeded up theriver--came to in Mangrove Reach, set as usual an armed watch with anofficer and proceeded up the river and at noon came to in Milkmaid Reach. "Sunday, April 4th. At 6 A. M. Got under weigh and proceeded up the riveras far as the first branch and there from the darkness of the night cameto. At 5 A. M. Up anchor and by 11 got as far as Shot Snake Reach. "Monday, April 5th. Fine weather. At 8 A. M. Got under weighand. .. Proceeded up the River, by 11 A. M. Passed the upper branch and bynoon gained two following Reaches. Latitude observed 33 degrees 28minutes 26 seconds south. "Tuesday, April 6th. Fine weather throughout. At 4 P. M. Came to inBelloe's Reach and at half-past 9 P. M. Got under weigh and gainedPortland Reach. At 10 A. M. Got under weigh and by noon got one reachabove Portland Reach--as yet we have not seen one log of cedar. "Wednesday, April 7th. Proceeding up the river--by 4 P. M. Came to in theReach above the first settlers--fired a gun. "Sunday, April 11th. At half-past 12 hauled the vessel in close toGovernment House and began to take in wheat and by sundown got in 311bushels. At daylight again began to receive grain and by noon received onboard to the amount of wheat 774 bushels. The Hawkesbury to Sydney Cove. "Monday, April 12th. Preparing to drop down the river. At 6 A. M. Made thesignal for sailing with a gun. Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove. "Tuesday, April 13th. At 9 A. M. Hauled up to get down the river but thewind blew so strong in our teeth that we were obliged to come to a fewhundred yards below Government House. "Wednesday, April 14th. At half-past 12 P. M. The tide having made downhove up and began to tow down the river and by 5 P. M. Got down to thelowest settlers. At 8 P. M. Fired a gun and set an armed watch; at 9 P. M. Having a fair breeze of wind, got under weigh and by noon cleared Lover'sLeap Reach. "Thursday, April 15th. At 5 P. M. From the strength of the wind wereobliged to come to in the upper end of Sackville Reach. "Friday, April 16th. At one P. M. A short lull taking place, hove up andtried to tow down but immediately obliged to bring up from wind blowingso strong as to render our getting down the river an entireimpossibility. "Saturday, April 17th. At one P. M. It lulled and we got under weigh, by 6P. M. We came to, at midnight on the turn of tide again hove up and toweddown, at 3 A. M. Passed the Francis schooner at anchor, at 4 A. M. Came to. "Sunday, April 18th. Fine weather throughout. Proceeding down the river. At 4 P. M. Came to in Barbin Reach--towed down till half-past 4 A. M. , athalf-past 9 A. M. Again got under weigh and by noon got within the reachesof Mangrove Point; one of the Hawkesbury boats passed us. "Monday, April 19th. Working down the river. By 2 P. M. We gained onereach below Sentry Box and there came to. Sent on shore and cut down afew cabbage trees for the people. At half-past 7 two boats passed usgoing to the Hawkesbury. Half-past one A. M. Got down as low as the BarrReach where we brought up, at 9 A. M. Again got under weigh and by noon wegained Spectacle Reach. "Tuesday, April 20th. Proceeding down the river as far as Mullet Islandand at half-past 1 P. M. Came to. Hove up and made sail down as far asFlint and Steel Cove and then came to; at 9 A. M. , in boats, and hove up, made sail out of Broken Bay wind at north-west, at 11 A. M. Passed BarrenJowie, by noon the north head of Port Jackson bore south by west 1/2west. "Wednesday, April 21st. Hauled our wind close tacked occasionally till 6P. M. When we entered the Heads, kept working up the Port and by 7 P. M. Got as high as Garden Island, and at 8 P. M. Came to an anchor in SydneyCove. . .. "Thursday, April 29th. First and middle parts calm, latter part smallbreezes, proceeded down the river as far as the French ship on board ofwhich the Commander-in-Chief went and other gentlemen. At 2 P. M. Theyreturned on board and we tacked and stood up for Sydney again, athalf-past 2 P. M. The breeze dying away His Excellency and the othergentlemen left us and went up in their boats. At 4 P. M. , a small breezespringing up, we were enabled to proceed up, and by 5 P. M. Came to ananchor in Sydney Cove. Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury. "Friday, April 30th. At 11 A. M. Again received orders to get under weigh, loosed sails, hove up and made sail down the Port. At noon theCommander-in-Chief with a company of ladies and gentlemen came on boardand we proceeded down the Harbour all sails set. "Saturday, May 1st. Kept standing down the Harbour and at one P. M. Cameto an anchor in Lookout Bay where the Commander-in-Chief and party wenton shore. At 4 P. M. Weighed and stood up the Harbour and at 6 came to offthe Pinch Gut Island in 12 fathoms of water. . .. Sydney Cove to Hawkesbury River. "Saturday, June 12th. First part strong gales at South, middle and lattermore moderate. At 6 A. M. Began to work out of the bay, at 7 weighed andmade sail and by 8 cleared the heads, at 9 the head of Port Jackson boresouth-west by west distant 3 1/2 miles, half-past 9 passed the Long Reefand by about 11 was abreast of the South Head of Broken Bay. At noonnearly reached Barren Jowie. "Sunday, June 13th. Kept standing off the Bay and by 3 P. M. EnteredMullet Island Reach, at 5 P. M. Came to in Lay Island Reach, perceived afresh to be in the river. At 2 A. M. Weighed and got a small distance inbut the wind freshening ahead obliged us to come to. "Monday, June 14th. At 3 P. M. Weighed and began to tow up the River andby 7 P. M. Came to in Bow Reach. At 5 A. M. Weighed and proceeded up theriver, by 9 A. M. Came to in Sentry Box Reach. "Tuesday, June 15th. At 3 P. M. Weighed and made sail proceeding up theriver--at half-past 7 A. M. Passed the first branch, and at 11 came to. "Wednesday, June 16th. At 4 P. M. , hove up and at 8 P. M. Passed the secondbranch, at 10 came to, at 1 A. M. Hove up, and by noon passed PortlandHead. "Thursday, June 17th. At 2 P. M. Came to one reach above Portland Head. At7 P. M. Hove up and by one A. M. Came to among the lower settlers. At 9A. M. Hove up and got a couple of reaches higher when we anchored, owingto the strength of the wind against us, one hour. People in the launchpulling. "Friday, June 18th. At 2 A. M. Dropped the settlement and at daylightbegan to deliver the provisions. "Saturday, June 19th. Finished the delivery of the provisions and beganto take in corn from His Majesty's store. "Tuesday, June 22nd. Employed taking corn. Made the signal for sailingwith a gun, by noon we finished loading having got on board 520 bushelscorn; hauled off to the stream. Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove. "Wednesday, June 23rd. Employed getting ready to drop down and at 9 A. M. Hove up and began to tow down the river; by noon got as low as Simpson'sfarm. "Thursday, June 24th. By 2 P. M. Got down as low as the lowest settlersand then came to, the tides being done. At 3 P. M. Hove up and got down acouple of reaches when we grounded on a mudbank, hove her off and at 8A. M. Hove up and at 10 got past Lover's Leap, at noon got down anotherreach. "Friday, June 25th. At one P. M. Came to in Portland Reach. At 8 A. M. Hoveup and by noon got two reaches below Sackville Reach. "Saturday, June 26th. Proceeding down the river, at 3 P. M. Came to and at9 A. M. Hove up and by noon got below the first branch. "Sunday, June 27th. At 9 A. M. Hove up and proceeding down the river andby noon passed the lower reach. "Monday, June 28th. At 10 A. M. Hove up and attempted to work down; bynoon gained two reaches. "Tuesday, June 29th. Gained one reach more in working, when from thesudden gusts of wind and lulls we were obliged to bring up. At 10 A. M. The Cumberland passed us bound up. At 10 A. M. Hove up and gained by noononly one more reach and there was forced to let go our anchor. "Wednesday, June 30th. At 11 P. M. Hove up and towed down a couple ofreaches when we were obliged to bring to. At 11 A. M. Hove up and by noonnearly reached Mangrove Point; wind favouring us, set main-sail and staysails. "Thursday, July 1st. At 3 P. M. Came to below Mangrove Reach, 6 A. M. Hoveour small bower to the bows and found its stock gone. "Friday, July 2nd. Tacking down the river--by 3 P. M. Came to at LongIsland; at 10 A. M. Weighed and made sail down the river. At noon passedthe Francis schooner lying at Mullet Island. "Saturday, July 3rd. At 9 A. M. The Francis weighed and stood up theriver; at noon weighed and towed down towards Broken Bay. "Sunday, July 4th. At 6 P. M. After having attempted to get out wereobliged to come to in 4 fathoms water. At 6 A. M. Hove up and made saildown the bay, at 7 A. M. Passed Pittwater, at 8 got abreast of the SouthHead, at 10 the North Head of Port Jackson bore west-south-west 4 miles. "Monday, July 5th. Fresh winds and a high sea. By 4 P. M. Entered theheads and at half-past 7 P. M. Came to at Garden Island. Commander waitedon the Governor and Commander-in-Chief. CHAPTER 7. THE LADY NELSON AND THE INVESTIGATOR EXAMINE THE NORTH-EASTERN SHORES OFAUSTRALIA. In the previous chapter it has been told how Captain Flinders arrived atPort Jackson on May 9th, 1802, ten days before the departure of theNaturaliste and how he had brought news to Hamelin of his meeting withthe Geographe in Encounter Bay. On his way to Sydney, Flinders hadcharted nearly the whole of the South Coast of Australia from Cape Lewinto Wilson's Promontory--a small portion only escaping his notice--and hadentered and surveyed Port Phillip. Immediately on his arrival he consulted with Governor King as to thefuture explorations of the Investigator. They came to the conclusion thatit would be injurious both for the ship and for her crew to attemptanother survey of the South Coast at that season of the year, and decidedthat the Investigator, in company with the Lady Nelson, should proceed tothe northward along the Australian coast and then to the westward, if itwere possible, to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria before the Novemberfollowing when the north-west monsoon might be expected. There was at this time a very great need of a proper survey of theseshores, particularly of the portion which now forms the Queensland coastand of the reefs that skirt it. Since the days when Cook in the Endeavourhad discovered these reefs, except when Flinders sailed to Hervey Bay in1799, little had been done to make this part of Australia better known, although in the vicinity of the Great Barrier Reef both land and sea werealike dangerous to seamen and disasters were of frequent occurrence. Cookhimself had met with a mishap in these waters, and Flinders afterwardswas totally wrecked on the inner edge of the Great Barrier Reef. Consequently, in agreeing to Flinders' proposal, King was conferring areal benefit upon the whole of the shipping community. It was alsodecided that in the event of Flinders' progress being retarded, or if hewere unable to examine the Gulf of Carpentaria, he should either exploreTorres Strait or return and survey Fiji. Eventually, however, it wasfound possible for him to carry out the exploration of the Gulf. Mr. Westall, landscape painter, with Mr. Robert Brown, botanist, andother scientists, sailed in the Investigator. Bungaree, the Rose Baynative who had accompanied Flinders on his voyage in the Norfolk toHervey Bay also went with him as well as a Sydney black fellow namedNanbury. Murray was given a code of signals for the Lady Nelson and wasdirected by Flinders, in case of the ships being separated, to repair toHervey Bay, which he was to enter by a passage between Sandy Cape andBreaksea Spit said to have been found by South Sea whalers. The two ships left Sydney together on July 22nd, 1802, but the LadyNelson was soon in difficulties, and was left astern at Port Stephens. Shortly afterwards the Investigator lay to, to await her coming. OnSaturday 24th--writes Flinders, "our little consort being out of sight westood an hour to the southward, and not seeing her in that direction boreaway along the coast. " Meanwhile on the afternoon of July 26th, MoretonIsland at the entrance of Moreton Bay was passed, and on Wednesday the28th, Flinders reached Sandy Cape where he immediately began to seek fora passage into Hervey Bay. One was found but proved too shallow for theInvestigator to pass through, so the ship was brought to two miles fromthe Spit. On the 30th the Lady Nelson came up with the Investigator anchoring nearher at sunset. After leaving Sandy Cape, Captain Flinders found that thetrend of the land differed noticeably from that laid down by Cook in hischart. On August 7th Port Curtis was discovered and on the 21st PortBowen, but by October 17th, when off the Cumberland Isles (a group offthe east coast of Queensland in 20 degrees south), the Lady Nelson hadbecome so unfit for service that she had to be sent back to Sydney. The vessels at the time were within the Great Barrier Reef, and Flindersstates that he kept the brig with him until a passage out to sea clear ofthe reefs could be found. "It is a matter of much concern to me, " hewrites to Banks, * (* See letters of Flinders to Banks. Add. Manuscripts, British Museum. ) "that this navigation could not be surmounted withoutsuch a loss of anchors to both vessels and of damage. .. To the Lady Nelsonin the loss of her main keel and the damage done to the trunk. " It wasalso found that her capacity of beating to windward, never great, wasmuch reduced. And again in his journal he says, "the Lady Nelson sailedso ill and had become so leewardly since the loss of the main and part ofthe after keel that she not only caused us delay but ran great risk ofbeing lost. " Therefore, much as he desired the aid of the small vessel, Flinders decided to proceed on his voyage alone. Soon after he had separated from Flinders, Murray, in order to spare theLady Nelson's sole remaining anchor, gave orders for two swivel gunscrossed, to be lashed together, and when winds were light and waterssmooth, he anchored with the swivels until the carpenter was able to makean ironbark anchor to take their place. In the following pages Murrayrelates the full story of the Lady Nelson's voyage both when she was withthe Investigator and also after the two ships had parted company. WITH THE INVESTIGATOR. THE LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY IN COMPANY WITH H. M. S. INVESTIGATOR. "Thursday, July 22nd, 1802. Preparing for sea. At 2 P. M. The Investigatormade the signal for all persons to return on board. At 3 P. M. Weighed andmade sail down the harbour: by 1/2 past 7, cleared the Heads; 1/2 past 9North Head of Port Jackson, south-south-west distant 18 miles. "Friday, July 23rd. At 4 P. M. The Coal Island bore north by east 15 or 16miles and the South Head of Port Stephens north-north-east 20 or 22miles. .. Received orders to keep ahead during the night and show a lightnow and then, steering north-east by east. At 8 spoke the Commander whotold us to keep in his wake. "Saturday, July 24th. At half-past 5 P. M. The Commander made the signalto come within hail, spoke him and was ordered to keep near him duringnight. "Sunday, July 25th. From noon until 11 P. M. Gale continued with a highsea which continually broke on board. At daylight we perceived from theland that a southern current ran so strong that we were nearly in thesame place as at noon. .. "Monday, July 26th. Standing down along shore. By 4 P. M. Saw what wesupposed was a ship and supposed it to be the Investigator, accordinglystood in for her, but a squall of rain coming on hindered our seeing her;fired a gun but no answer was received, at 8 fired a second gun with alight at the masthead but got no answer. .. Bore north-north-east and toour surprise by midnight found ourselves close to a very high head ofland which owing to being covered with clouds we did not before see. * (*Point Danger. ) Turned up the hands and made all sail and by 1 A. M. Withmuch difficulty we cleared it. .. "Monday, July 27th. At 2 P. M. Solitary Islands bore west by north distant7 miles. "Wednesday, July 28th. At 1 P. M. Mount Warning bore west by north distant15 or 16 miles. .. At daylight saw the land from west-south-west to N. W. S. , noon the northern end of Moreton Island bore west by north distant 5 or 6leagues. * (* Flinders examined Moreton Bay and Pumicestone River in 1799but Oxley made the discovery that Point Lookout was situated onStradbroke Island and that Moreton Bay extended as far south as 28degrees where it communicated with the sea. ) "Thursday, July 29th. At 8 A. M. Double Island Point bore north-west bywest about 5 or 6 miles. Stood into Wide Bay in hopes of finding theInvestigator there, as we stood round the northern end of Double Islandsaw a number of natives who waved their hands to us; all round the baywere numbers of fires. In the mouth and on the south side of Wide Bay* (*Coast of Queensland. ) lie two rocks with bold water round them, not laiddown in the chart, and those rocks bare from the north end of DoubleIsland north-east by north distance 1 1/2 miles. "Friday, July 30th. At 5 P. M. The north extremes of the land bore north1/2 east distant 15 or 16 miles. Observed numerous natives all along thecoast. At sunrise Indian Head bore north-north-west distant 3 miles, aswe neared it, counted 25 natives on it. Made all sail for Sandy Cape andby 11 A. M. Entered a passage between two reefs, at the same time from themasthead saw the Investigator bearing north-west distant about 10 or 11miles. * (* The Investigator had anchored under Breaksea Spit about 9miles north-north-east from Sandy Cape. ) "Saturday, July 31st. Fine weather. At 2 P. M. On the turn of tide sentthe boat ahead to tow, hove up, and made all sail; cleared the shoalsthat surrounded this reef. The Investigator standing down to us sent aboat with the Master on board to give assistance if wanted, at half-past4 P. M. Ye Commander came to; at 5 P. M. We also came to in 4 fathoms ofwater--bottom fine sand and waited on ye Commander. At half-past 6 A. M. Hove up and made sail in shore and at half-past 8 A. M. Came to nearenough to cover the landing of the boats of both vessels. CaptainFlinders and a number of the officers and gentlemen landed and I went onshore with an armed party in order to get wood. In a little time CaptainFlinders and his party were joined by about 30 of the natives all of whomlaid down their arms and we continued on friendly terms with them all thetime the parties were on shore. Captain Flinders made them presents ofred caps, tomahawks, etc. With which they were much pleased and gave backsome baskets and nets. With respect to the persons of these natives, Iperceived little or no difference from the Sydney blacks; their languageis much different, as Bungaree could not understand a word they said. * (*"These people were entirely naked but were more 'fleshy' than those atPort Jackson perhaps from being able to obtain a better supply of fishwith "scoop nets" which are not known on the southern coast. A species ofpandanus grew here in abundance and the valleys contained trees of theCasuarina and Eucalyptus. " Flinders. ) "Sunday, August 1st. Fine weather. At 2 P. M. The gentlemen with theirparties returned to the beach. We all embarked in the Investigator'sboat, got on board the Lady Nelson; at 3 P. M. Came to in 5 fathoms, Captain Flinders then left us. At 7 P. M. The Commodore weighed; hove upand followed him with all sail. At noon saw the looming of Sandy Capeeast by south 7 or 8 leagues. "Monday, August 2nd. Fine weather. At 1 P. M. Commodore on our lee beam 2miles; quarter past 5 P. M. The Commodore came to, at half-past we came tounder the stern of the Commodore. At 6 A. M. Got under weigh. At 10 A. M. Answered signal to come within hail, the Commodore desired we would keepin shore of him. "Tuesday, August 3rd. Fine weather. At 4 P. M. Bustard Bay borewest-north-west distant 3 or 4 miles. On this point a very large fire wasburning and numbers of natives were there. Hauled in for the Bay andshoaled our water; came to in 5 fathoms water. At sundown lowered downsmall boats and waited on the Commander. At 6 A. M. Made sail with theInvestigator, passed the first rock lying off the western point ofBustard Bay. Wednesday, August 4th. At half-past 3 perceived one of the Investigator'sboats to be adrift, bore away to pick her up. At sundown the westernextremes of the land bore west-south-west distant 15 miles. At 8 P. M. Passed the stern of the Commodore who hailed us and told us he would tackevery two hours during the night. At daylight saw the land bearingsouth-south-east. At noon the northern point of Bustard Bay boresouth-south-east distant 4 or 5 leagues. "Thursday, August 5th. Kept slipping along the land. At half-past 6 P. M. Having run under the stern of the Commodore came to. * (* "This anchoragewas 5 or 6 miles from Gatcombe Head and the chain of hills which risesnear Bustard Bay was seen to stretch westward behind the shore at theback of Mount Larcom. These hills had a barren appearance, the coastbeing more rocky than sandy. " Flinders. ) At quarter past 10 A. M. TheCommodore made signal I see an opening, answered ditto. Immediately afteranswered signal "steer in shore and look out for anchorage. " Observingnumbers of natives and canoes on the beach, kept running in. At quarterpast 10 A. M. Beheld from our masthead a large sheet of water with a rockyisland in the entrance and seemingly got shelter. * (* Port Number 1 inthe chart is Port Curtis so named by Captain Flinders after Sir RogerCurtis. ) At 11 A. M. Came to in 3 fathoms water and made the signal to theCommodore "come no nearer in, " and he came to--lowered down our boat, Iwent and sounded in shore and found the water to deepen to 8 fathoms. Waited on the Commodore, received orders to follow his boat into theharbour--sent our people to heave up. At noon one of the Investigator'sboats went on shore to the beach where the natives and their canoeswere. * (* "There were seven bark canoes lying on the shore and upon atree near hung parts of a turtle and scoop nets similar to those atHervey Bay. " Flinders. ) "Friday, August 6th. At 1 P. M. Hove up and run further into the opening. I then went on shore to a small rocky island on which Captain Flinderswas taking angles and we got some firewood. I went in Captain Flinders'boat across to a middling high hill* (* Called in the chart Hill View. )on the opposite side of this stream, got to the top and saw that thesheet of water ran into several serpentine branches and that apparentlythe deepest water was to the south-east of us; and that this south-eastentrance and the one in which we lay formed a pretty large island lyingin a north-west and south-east line. We joined the boat and sounded in atraverse to ascertain whether it was possible for the Lady Nelson to movehigher up. We found however only from 3 to 5 feet of water and foulground throughout a narrow space through which the vessel must pass. Inconsequence of which Captain Flinders desired me to get under weigh andwork round the island to the south-east entrance and to find a channelinto the harbour. Accordingly weighed, by 7 P. M. Passed the Investigator. At daylight made all sail to gain the entrance and by 9 A. M. Nearlyfetched it, from the masthead at the time I saw a long range of breakersfrom the entrance stretching away south-east to east-south-east whichmade me to be in some doubts as to an entrance existing, however I sentMr. Hacking in the boat to sound and almost immediately we struck on asandbank. Immediately hove up our keels and she luckily veered round in 6feet of water and went off although we still had no more water for sometime, it then gradually deepened into 6 fathoms. Fired a gun for the boatwho got on board by noon and informed me that a good channel did exist, and from where we were it lay about south-south-east and may be 3/4 of amile broad--out sweep and sent the boat ahead to tow. "Saturday, August 7th. Fine weather. Standing into the entrancesouth-south-west. On putting our helm to starboard we immediately hadfrom 1 1/2 3, steering west-north-west, the Investigator on our beambearing about north-north-east distant 8 miles, and finding our watersuddenly to shoal came to in 2 fathoms and observed that a little wayahead lay a long sand sheet almost dry. Tripped our anchor and run into 5fathoms water and there came to. * (* Off South-trees Point. ) Fired a gunas a signal to the Commodore; observed a boat under sail a considerabledistance from us in a westerly direction which I fancied was CaptainFlinders in his whaleboat examining the harbour. At sunrise had out ourlaunch and sent the First Mate in her with an armed party in search ofwater. "Sunday, August 8th. After dinner I went in the small boat to examine anopening on the South shore of the harbour and to look for water of whichI found some, on proceeding about a mile and a half up the openingperceived it branched into several different directions. I imagine itruns some considerable distance up into the country. On returning to thevessel I found Captain Flinders with a midshipman and boat's crew onboard. * (* "The country round Port Curtis is over-spread with grass andproduces the Eucalyptus. Much of the shores and low islands areoverspread with Mangroves--the most common being the Rhizophora Mangle ofLinn. " Flinders. ) At daylight Captain Flinders left us desiring me to getunder weigh as soon as possible and get round to the Investigator. Inworking down we sounded constantly and found from 10 to 4 fathoms on eachside, a safe channel for any ship and sufficiently broad to work in. "Monday, August 9th. At 3 P. M. Got under weigh and made sail out of theharbour tacking occasionally. At 4 P. M. Our boat came on board fromFaceing Island having found water in small quantities. By 6 P. M. Weweathered the south-east point of Faceing Island and stood down towardsthe Investigator. At 15 past 7 P. M. Struck on some sunken reef of rocksabout 2 miles from the shore but immediately heaving up all our keels shewent over them into deeper water without any damage. * (* See August 22nd. Half of the main keel was afterwards found gone. ) At half-past 8 P. M. Fired a gun and hoisted a light at the masthead which was answered by theInvestigator. By midnight came to with the small bower about 2 cableslengths from the Commodore. At daylight hoisted in our boat, on theCommodore getting under weigh, we did the same. At half-past 9 A. M. Passed in between the Rocky Island and Cape Capricorn. At half-past 10Captain Flinders hailed us and told us to try for a passage in betweensome rocks and the main of Keppel's Bay. At 50 minutes past 11 A. M. Perceived all foul ground ahead in this passage, hauled out and informedthe Commodore. At noon bore up for the western part of the Bay, CapeCapricorn bearing east by south distance 10 or 11 miles. "Tuesday, August 10th. At half-past 3 P. M. Came to one cable length fromthe Investigator, lowered our boat and I waited on Captain Flinders. Athalf-past 4 P. M. Captain Flinders, some of his officers and I went onshore. On ascending one of the highest hills, * (* Named by Flinders SeaHill. ) we perceived the bay to be very extensive with several openings. Here we found a fresh water swamp and saw some ducks and redbills. Atsundown Captain Flinders and party returned on board, and CaptainFlinders came on board. Weighed and made all sail up the bay. Come to in3 fathoms a large island in the mouth of the bay North distance 7 or 8miles. "Wednesday, August 11th. Saw Captain Flinders come out of the entrance heyesterday went into and stand along the south shore of the bay. "Thursday, August 12th. At 3 P. M. Commodore made the signal "I want tospeak to you. " Immediately got the vessel under weigh and by half-past 4P. M. Passed his stern when he hailed us to come to an anchor a littledistance from him. I waited on Captain Flinders who told me that atdaylight I was to get under weigh and proceed to a large island* (*Hummocky Island. ) (one of Keppels) and overhaul it for turtle for the useof both vessels and to get the bearings of all the islands in sight fromthe top of the said island as also to find whether there were wood andwater upon the island. When we anchored Outermost Rock east-south-east 2miles. "Friday, August 13th. At 1 P. M. I went on shore to the island, onexamining the beaches and rocks no water was found. I ascended all thehills and walked from one to the other nearly the whole length of theisland but found no water or wood. The hills are covered with thickshrubbery and grass and full of stones, from the top of the highest partof it and looking towards the sea no more islands are to be seen thanthose we saw coming in. On going down to the rocks that lead to the beachwe fell in with some slight drains of fresh water and further discoveredtwo chasms in the rock, in each there might be 150 or 200 gallons ofwater but the difficulty of getting it to a boat hinders it being of useto vessels. On the west side is a small bight with a sandy beach in itscentre but the bottom is loose and always a swell tumbling into it, indeed anchorage all round it is indifferent. "Saturday, August 14th. By 4 P. M. Having run nearly into our anchorage bythe Investigator came to in 5 fathoms water. Lieutenant Fowler came onboard and informed me that Captain Flinders was not yet returned fromexamining the harbour. "Sunday, August 15th. Fine weather throughout. Received orders to beready to get under weigh at daylight to-morrow morning. "Monday, August 16th. At sundown observed all the seamen on liberty fromthe Investigator and Lady Nelson coming along the beach accompanied by anumber of natives. Immediately Lieutenant Fowler and some of thegentlemen of the Investigator along with myself went on shore but onseeing us they began to run; however on all the seamen being sent awaythey suffered Mr. Brown to go near enough to reach them a few rednight-caps and a tomahawk. * (* "I offered a boat to the botanists tovisit South Hill. A part of the Ship's Company was allowed on shore forno Indians had been seen, but towards evening about 20 were seen with thesailors. They had been met near Cape Keppel and at first menaced ourpeople, but finding them friendly laid aside their arms. " Flinders. ) Theythen made signs to us to be gone. They began running and were soon out ofsight. These natives are a much stouter class of people than any I haveyet seen (those of Jarvis Bay excepted). On returning to the beach Mr. Evans, mate, and one of the seamen belonging to the Investigator weremissing. Lieutenant Fowler and the rest of the gentlemen waited untildark in hopes of their appearing and then went on board and a boat with amidshipman was immediately sent to wait at the beach but as neitherappeared the boat returned. In the morning two guns were fired from theInvestigator as signals and we saw two boats go to shore we supposed tosearch for those missing. "Tuesday, August 17th. Seventeen of the natives came down to the beach. On seeing them a number of the officers of the Investigator went onshore. I also went. * (* Captain Flinders took a boat to Cape Keppel inorder to obtain bearings. ) We continued on friendly terms with them allday, and it is worth remarking that they having met Mr. Evans and the oneseamen led them down to the beach and even gave them a duck each to eaton their making signs of their hunger. We had a drum, fife and fiddle onshore with us but on playing and beating they signified their displeasureand some of them ran off but on our ceasing returned. We made thempresents of caps, tomahawks, etc. , but they would give nothing in return. Their spears and waddas are much the same as at Sydney, they don't usethe throwing stick. At daylight weighed. Came to again. * (* It took thewhole day to get into the offing. A sketch of the island and of CapeKeppel was made by Mr. Westall while beating out of the bay. "After themangrove the most common trees round Keppel Bay are the eucalyptus and aspecies of Cycas bearing poisonous nuts. There are Kangaroos in the woodsand several bustards were seen near Cape Keppel. About the nativefireplaces were the shells of crabs, the bones of turtle and remains offern root. " Flinders. ) "Wednesday, August 18th. At 1 P. M. Hove up in the company with theInvestigator tacked occasionally. By 4 P. M. Cleared the bay and at 5 P. M. Fell calm. Came to with kedge CapeCapricorn bearing south-east by east 13 or 14 miles, Cape Keppelsouth-south-east distant 5 or 6 miles and a large inhabited island, oneof Keppel's, north-north-west distant 6 or 7 miles. At daylight again incompany with Commodore made all sail. By noon passed abreast thenorthernmost Keppel's Island. Observed two natives on the highest part ofit bellowing to us, no canoes in sight. Latitude 23 degrees 4 minutes 37seconds south. "Thursday, August 19th. Fine weather. Answered signal "Steer in shore andlook out for anchorage" a bluff head making with the low land of the mainlike an entrance. As we stood in shoaled our water to 7 fathoms, made thesignal to that purport. Saw a sand shoal ahead; the Investigatorimmediately hauled off and we did the same, saw plainly no anchorage wasthere, stood in and by 5 P. M. We dropped our kedge, at half-past 5 P. M. The Commodore also came to near us. At sundown the easternmost ofKeppel's Islands bore south-east by east distant 10 or 12 miles the shorepoint south distant 2 miles. At 7 A. M. Weighed in company with theInvestigator. "Friday, August 20th. At sundown the Commodore bore north distant about 3miles, the Sugar Loaf Island north-north-east 1/2 east distant 4 miles, and two rocky islands north-east by east distant about 3 miles. Atquarter-past 9 P. M. Saw a light in the north-west quarter and heard a gunfired. Immediately hoisted a light in the main top gallant masthead andfired a gun; heard no second gun. At 12 passed a low island bearing eastdistant 3/4 of a mile. At daylight perceived we were much farther fromthe land than the Log gave. Commodore not in sight. Latitude observed 22degrees 41 minutes 28 seconds south. "Saturday, August 21st. At half-past 4 P. M. Saw the Investigator bearingnorth-north-west, at sundown the Investigator bore north-west by northdistant 10 miles, the Sugar Loaf Island bore west by north distant 4 or 5miles, the Low Island south-west by west distant 3 or 4 miles. At quarterpast 8 P. M. Heard a gun fired from the Commodore which we answered. At 9P. M. Heard a second gun fired which we answered. At daylight made allsail to come up with Commodore. At 20 past 11 came to with small bower in7 fathoms. "Sunday, August 22nd. A. M. Sent the First Mate and a party to water andwood the vessel; hoisted our main keel* (* That is the middle centreboard. ) out of the trunk and found half of it gone, this must have beenoccasioned by the shock it received at Faceing Island on Monday 9thinstant, when running down to the Investigator. It also accounts for hernot sailing so fast as formerly. A. M. Received one boat-load of water. Iwent on shore to the watering-place, it lies between two hills of aconsiderable height and springs out of a rock--the water is both good andclear, it is convenient to be got at. * (* The ships anchored in PortBowen or Number 2 Port, named by Flinders in honour of Captain Jas. Bowenof the Navy, and the hilly projection on the side of its entrance, CapeClinton after Colonel Clinton of the 85th Regiment. "The water was verygood. It drained down the gully to a little beach between two projectingheads. The gully will be easily known, but Mr. Westall's sketch willobviate any difficulty. There were pine trees in the gully, but the bestwere on Entrance Island, some being fit for topmasts. I was surprised tosee trees (upon Hervey Isles) resembling the pines of Norfolk Island. "Flinders. ) Latitude (good) observed 22 degrees 28 minutes 58 secondssouth. "Monday, August 23rd. Reported our main keel to Captain Flinders beinggone. "Tuesday, August 24th. P. M. Hoisted in our launch and secured everythingfor sea. At daylight weighed and made sail in company with theInvestigator. By half-past 7 A. M. Got out of the bay and at 11 A. M. Cameto Pine Island bearing south by east 1/2 east. Distant 1 1/2 miles. HopePoint south by west 6 or 7 miles and the northern entrancesouth-south-west 2 miles. "Wednesday, August 25th. At 2 P. M. Weighed in company with theInvestigator and made all sail. At 7 came to. .. At daylight weighed incompany with the Investigator, worked to windward until 10 A. M. When theInvestigator came to in the offing and we came to. .. Between Rocky Islandand the main, Rocky Island bearing north-east by north distant 2 1/2miles. .. The nearest of the Pine Islands, south-east by east distant 3miles. "Thursday, August 26th. At 3 P. M. The Investigator lifted her anchor andworked to windward. At half-past 4 P. M. Saw a native fire ahead. Atdaylight weighed with a light air at north-west. By 6 A. M. TheInvestigator got close into an opening (seeming a large bay* (* ShoalWater Bay or Number 3 discovered port. See Flinders. )) and hoisted out 2boats, at 8 A. M. She bore up for the entrance and we followed withoutsweeps rowing. At half-past 8 A. M. Observed the Investigator to anchorand shortly after we were obliged to drop our kedge close to the rocks ofthe south-eastern entrance. I went on shore with a small party. * (* Onthis day Mr. Westall made a drawing of Shoal Water Bay and the islandshere. Flinders named a high hill Mount Westall in compliment to hislandscape painter. ) I saw on the beach the footmarks of natives and thetracks of turtle, but nothing else worth mentioning. Apparently this is aplace of very huge extent and safe for shipping. Latitude observed 22degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds south. "Friday, August 27th. At 2 P. M. The tide having somewhat slackened and abreeze of wind coming from the north-east weighed and made all sail upthe bay; by half-past 2 P. M. Having passed the Investigator by about aquarter of a mile came to in 6 fathoms water. At 40 minutes past 2 P. M. The vessel swung to the flood and in half an hour its rate was found tobe 3 1/2 knots per hour, it increased from that very nearly 5 knots andits rise 11 feet. * (* This place was named by Flinders Strong TidePassage. ) At 6 P. M. One of the Investigator's boats got upset under ourstern and one man thrown into the water by the accident. He drifted downwith the tide and our boat picked him up with some of the boat's gear. At6 A. M. Got the vessel under weigh and let her drift up the bay with thetide having from 6 to 10 fathoms and from that to 5 and 8 where weanchored. The Investigator anchored a little before us. From where we laythe east point of bay bore north 47 degrees east. "Saturday, August 28th. At 2 P. M. I received orders to get the vesselunder weigh and proceed up the bay--half-past 2 P. M. Weighed and madesail, the Investigator following us. At half-past 3 P. M. Perceived theInvestigator to be aground in consequence of which we let go our kedgeand I went in the boat ahead. At 5 P. M. On the Investigator floating;again got under weigh, kept standing up the bay sounding and makingsignals. At 6 P. M. Anchored with the small bower in 5 fathoms of water. "Sunday, August 29th. At daylight weighed in company with theInvestigator and moved up a little further, sounding from 3 fathoms to 7, where we anchored. Latitude observed 22 degrees 20 minutes 56 secondssouth. "Monday, August 30th. At 4 P. M. In company with the Commodore made sail alittle further up the bay; we perceived a shoal nearly dry on thesouth-east end, it seemed to lie nearly in that direction for perhaps twomiles. Waited on Captain Flinders who desired me to send our main keel onboard in order to be repaired and at the same time he informed me that hewould be on board in the morning and move the Lady Nelson for theexamination of the bay. At daylight sent our keel on board and athalf-past 6 Captain Flinders came on board, immediately weighed and madeall sail to the south-east part of the bay. At half-past 10 entered alarge branch or arm of the bay or river following Captain Flinders in hisboat steering east and east-south-east we anchored per order of CaptainFlinders and he continued on in his boat. * (* Flinders went two miles upthe river, landed, and took a set of angles here. He describes an isletwith "signs of visits of the natives" and on the main, in low grounds, were holes where they dug for fern root. An iguana 2 or 3 feet long wasthe sole animal killed, but the mud banks here were frequented at lowwater by various sea birds. ) Double Peak* bore 1/2 west by south. (* TheDouble Mountain of Flinders in Shoal Water Bay is not the Double Mountainshown on his earlier chart inland from Hervey Bay. ) "Tuesday, August 31st. At half-past 2 P. M. Captain Flinders on board, andhe began to work out of the branch. At 6 P. M. The tide being down cameto. .. At daylight weighed and made sail to south-east, passed here a flatof mud with only from 8 to 9 feet water on it; by 7 A. M. Having gotnearer to the south shore found a channel that had from 2 to 9 fathoms. "Wednesday, September 1st. At 7 P. M. Captain Flinders, a midshipman andboat's crew on board. A. M. Dropped our small bower it blowing fresh. At 5A. M. Hove it up again, and the wind blowing strong from north-west andtide done, hindered our working down to the Investigator. "Thursday, September 2nd. At half-past 12 P. M. Weighed and began to workto windward with the ebb tide in our favour; at half-past 4 P. M. CaptainFlinders and his people left us; continued until 7 P. M. Working tonorth-west and there came to in 7 fathoms. At daylight weighed and stoodover to the Investigator and at 7 A. M. Came to lowered down boat and Iwaited on Captain Flinders, he informed me that the Investigator wouldget under weigh at 9 A. M. And would run over as near to the bottom ofSugar Loaf Hill* (* Pine Mountain (of Flinders) described by him as "asingle round hill with a high-peaked top standing inland 2 miles from theWest Bight and composed of the greenstone of the German mineralogists. ")as the water would permit and requested I would run ahead of him in theLady Nelson and show soundings quick. Passed the Investigator astern, Captain Flinders hailed and desired me to stand up towards Sugar LoafHill until we had left less than 6 fathoms, did so and as it almostimmediately shoaled to 4 fathoms wore round and made all sail to workback. "Friday, September 3rd. At half-past 1 P. M. Came to with small bower andI waited on Captain Flinders. * (* Flinders was then one mile from theshore and 2 from Aken's Island, the east end of which bore north 27degrees west. ) A. M. Hauled the seine, caught no fish and the ground beingfoul damaged the net. "Saturday, September 4th. Waited on Captain Flinders who told me heshortly intended to weigh in order to proceed to Thirsty Sound and at 10A. M. Weighed in company with the Investigator. Since our arrival here onThursday the 26th August few native fires have been seen and only oncesome of the Investigator's gentlemen had intercourse with a party ofnatives on the shore. From their report those natives are inferior to thenatives of Keppel Bay. .. And if we may guess from their lean appearancemuch worse off with respect to food; the soil of all this part of thecountry appears to be very indifferent and for a considerable distancefrom shore, low swampy mangrove clay. All round the bay are high hills, on one of the westernmost tall pines seem in abundance, the bottom isinvariably blue clay. .. From the number of shoals lying in this place itis necessary to keep the lead constantly going, and from the great riseand fall of the tide to be careful not to anchor in less than 5fathoms. .. We have experienced some sea riding at anchor the fetch beingpretty extensive. "Sunday, September 5th. Standing through Northumberland Islands towardsThirsty Sound. * (* Thirsty Sound, Hervey and Bustard Bays among otherplaces on the coast were named by Captain Cook. ) At dusk the entrance ofThirsty Sound west by south distance 3 miles, Sugar Loaf Hill, or hill ofPines, * (* The Pine Mount of Flinders. ) south-east by east and theInvestigator east-north-east distant three-quarters of a mile. Atdaylight weighed in company with the Investigator made sail in for theentrance. Received our new keel from the Investigator, and on trying tofit it to the case found it obstructed from going down by some of thecopper being rubbed off and having got into the trunk, this was found tobe the case by one of the people who dived under her bottom. * (* Thecarpenters had for some time been employed in making a sliding keel forthe Lady Nelson from the pine logs cut at Port Bowen, and being nowfinished it was sent on board. Flinders. ) "Monday, September 6th. A. M. On ascending the hill, named by Captain Cookthe Pier Head--had a fine view of this and Broad Sound, the formerappearing like a serpentine river to a great way inland and its banksshowing apparently a fine country. A number of the adjacent hills arecovered with long sunburnt grass that appears at a little distance like aheath or common at home, with here and there a small cluster of palmtrees. Traces of the kangaroo have been seen. We have neither seennatives, their fires, nor marks here. No water has yet been found, woodis in plenty. "Tuesday, September 7th. At 3 P. M. I received orders to get under weighand move out ahead of the Investigator. .. At 5 P. M. Weighed and athalf-past 6 P. M. Came to. .. At 5 A. M. Finding she drove, let go our smallbower. At 6 A. M. Perceived the Investigator attempting to weigh, on whichwe (after some difficulty) weighed and began to work to windward. Observed the Investigator to drop her anchor again and clew down hersail. Came to in 6 fathoms with the small bower. Answered signal "I wantto see you. " Immediately went on board the Investigator and LieutenantFowler informed me they had parted a Bower Cable, that, their Stream notbringing her up, a second Bower was gone and that they were in 1/2 2fathoms water, as the tide was rapidly falling it was obvious that sheimmediately must be got off. For this purpose I immediately, according toLieutenant Fowler's plan, returned on board, veered away on our smallbower to the end and let go our best bower; we then received a warp fromthe Investigator, made it fast on board and she was enabled to heave offinto deeper water by the Lady Nelson. At noon she dropped her bower alittle from our stern, cast off her warp and lifted our best bower. .. "Wednesday, September 8th. Cloudy weather. At half-past 9 A. M. TheInvestigator shifted her berth into the stream. .. At half-past 6 A. M. Weighed in company with the Commodore made all sail out of the Sound. Atnoon a large island in the entrance of Broad Sound south distance 5miles, and the Investigator east distance 1 mile. * (* At this time theships were within 2 miles of the north-east point of Broad Sound. ) "Thursday, September 9th. Stretching across Broad Sound, at half-past 1P. M. Suddenly shoaled our water at the same time saw the appearance ofbroken water ahead. At 2 P. M. Spoke the Commodore who told me to steerwest. A round mount north-west by west distance 3 miles. At 11 P. M. Cameto in company with the Commodore with best bower in 7 fathoms water. Inthe course of the forenoon saw several native fires on this part of thecoast. Latitude observed 21 degrees 51 minutes 00 seconds south. "Friday, September 10th. At 2 P. M. Weighed and made sail to thesouth-east sounding from 1/2 3 at low water to 1/4 less 2 on the edge ofa sand shoal on which the Investigator touched but immediately swung off, we continuing. At half-past 5 A. M. Perceived the Investigator to begetting under weigh, made all sail down to the Commodore. Spoke him; hetold me to work between the main and one of Northumberland Islands, andsaid he would follow us. Stood on to windward and tacked occasionallyanchored in company with the Commodore at half-past 11 A. M. Under apleasant little island. * (* "The 4th flat Island is about one mile longand there is a smaller lying off it's south-east end. They are a littleelevated and bear grass and small trees, but the shores are covered withmangroves and surrounded with flats of mud and sand. " Flinders. ) ObservedCaptain Flinders to go on shore, shortly afterwards I went on shore, someturtle shells were seen and the marks of natives of an ancient date. Itappears that the whole of the distance between the Pier Head at ThirstySound and to the round mount before mentioned between the NorthumberlandIslands and the main has a number of sand shoals that can only be avoidedby keeping the lead constantly going and a good lookout at the headotherwise a vessel would get aground, and the water falling so much andso rapidly would leave her high and dry. .. "Saturday, September 11th. At 6 A. M. Weighed ill company with theInvestigator but she (on account of the shoals that lye off from themainland to the island we anchored under) was obliged at 7 A. M. To dropher anchor. In the Lady Nelson we crossed the shoal in only 9 feetimmediately on being over it we fell into 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. Againcrossed it and ran up to the Investigator at 9 A. M. , the flood havingmade strong over the shoal again. "Sunday, September 12th. At quarter-past 5 P. M. Tacked and stood on aheadof the Investigator until we were close to a very extensive sheet of mudlying all the way from the mainland. At this place an inlet of shoalwater appeared to run a good distance into the country. At sundown tackedin company with the Investigator and stood off. At 8 A. M. Tacked andstood into an inlet with several dry lands appearing in it, found a goodstrong flood against us. At half-past 9 A. M. Came to. * (* "At 9 A. M. Passed a fifth opening: anchored abreast of a hilly projection which Ihave named Upper Head. " Flinders. ) Lowered our boat and I went on shorewith a couple of hands. Saw or found nothing worth notice--the soil issandy, the shores lined with mangrove trees and inland a little distancewe found gum trees and the palm; a few curlews and redbills were shot. "Monday, September 13th. At half-past 8 weighed as per signal in companywith the Commodore; found when near the Investigator the water suddenlyto shoal from 6 to 3 to 1, where we touched the ground, however onheaving up our keel she went off into 2 fathoms, when we came to, observed the Investigator to ground, she was caught on a bank ofquicksand in 11 feet at half-past 10 A. M. She floated, a little afterCaptain Flinders went away inshore, sounding. Several native fires insight in different directions. "Tuesday, September 14th. At half-past 1 P. M. Made sail in company withthe Investigator and worked to north-west where we anchored. On passingher Captain Flinders hailed us and told me to be ready at 8 o'clock inthe morning to proceed to the south-east up the arm on Broad Sound. At 8A. M. Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown on board. At half-past 8 A. M. Weighedand made sail, at 40 minutes past 10 A. M. Grounded in 8 feet of water, at40 minutes past 11 A. M. Weighed and made sail across the entrance of theriver. From noon until 40 minutes past 1 P. M. Stretching across the flatsof this arm, sounding from 9 feet to 3 1/4 fathoms, where we anchored. Immediately moored with the kedge which in a little time she broughthome, moored with the bowers per cable one way and 25 fathoms the other, found the tide of ebb to run at 4 P. M. 5 knots and 6 fathoms. At 5 P. M. We began to touch the ground and perceived that our main keel was gone, part of it coming up alongside. Sent some of the people out to look inwhat situation our anchor lay and it was found that the best bower hadcome home and the small parted 12 fathoms from the ring. I conclude theragged part of the main keel must have done it when she swung in ground, we tried in vain with 10 or 11 hands to lift it out of its bed. As thewhole of this part of the flats are quicksands with a strong suction, bent a good warp to its crown to weigh it by when the tide rose. Athalf-past 1 A. M. The flood came to us with much noise and about a foothigh, in 15 minutes we floated and hove up to our best bower. By 5 A. M. Began again to ground, by 6 A. M. Fast: at half-past 7 A. M. CaptainFlinders went in his boat in search of deeper water and found one placenearer inshore where he thought it advisable to shift the Lady Nelson to, when the tide would permit. Upon the south shore we saw several nativefires. "Thursday, September 16th. At 2 P. M. Loosed sails, sheeted home andhoisted them, weighed and stood in shore. Found the strength of the tidehere to be 3 1/2 knots. "Friday, September 17th. At half-past 5 P. M. Captain Flinders returnedhaving found the armto terminate in shoals of sand. At 3 A. M. Weighed and made sail in orderto join the Investigator but by half-past 4 A. M. We grounded and therewere obliged to lye from the ebb falling so fast. Captain Flinders, Mr. Brown and the boat's crew left us. Here we had an opportunity of lookingat the vessel's bottom, the sand being firm. Found one sheet and a halfof copper torn off her garboard streak, one off the starboard bow, and onthe bows the anchor had torn the copper in some degree; from the want ofcopper nails could not repair those hurts until we joined theInvestigator. "Saturday, September 18th. At 2 P. M. Weighed and began to work towindward. .. Anchored near the Investigator. A. M. I waited on CaptainFlinders and was advised to lay the Lady Nelson on shore in order torepair her copper; in consequence of which Lieutenant Fowler and I wentto examine a sand inshore of the vessels and finding that sand fit forthe purpose, reported the same to Captain Flinders; got our main keel outof the trunk, found 4 feet of it gone and also 4 feet of the after keelcarried away. * (* "The Lady Nelson. .. Required some reparation, Itherefore desired Lieutenant Murray to lay his vessel on shore and getthese matters arranged to cut wood and be ready to sail in a week for theTorres Strait. " Flinders. ) "Sunday, September 19th. At half-past 6 A. M. Weighed and ran into 5 feetwater. At half-past 8 A. M. The Investigator weighed and stood to theeastward. At 9 A. M. We grounded; by noon we were able to replace part ofthe copper torn off her bottom. "Monday, September 20th. Fine weather throughout. By 3 P. M. She floated, weighed, ran into 5 fathoms water and anchored. At 6 A. M. Weighed andgrounded. "Tuesday, September 21st. At 3 P. M. She began to float, by 4 hove heroff, weighed and ran into 5 fathoms water where we anchored. A. M. Sent aparty on shore to cut wood. Investigator still in sight. "Wednesday, September 22nd. A party on shore cutting wood and stuff forbrooms. A. M. Received on board two boat-loads of wood; sent a party afterkangaroo, some were seen at a distance but none were shot. Shifted thefore keel aft and the after one (when we had repaired it as well as wecould) forward. The main keel we could not make fit after our carpenterhad worked on it several days, I rather suppose the trunk is injured inits inside. "Thursday, September 23rd. Set up our rigging and stays fore and aft;sent the carpenter on shore to cut spars to fit our several guns on. "Friday, September 24th. Fine weather, moderate winds throughout. A. M. Perceived the Investigator under weigh standing over to us. "Saturday, September 25th. The Investigator in sight working towards us;at half-past 8 A. M. She came to an anchor within half a mile of us. Iwaited on Captain Flinders and informed him we were ready for sea. "Sunday, September 26th. The Investigator struck her tents on shore. Received from her gunner half a barrel of gunpowder and one quire ofmusket cartridge paper, and 17 fathoms of old rope for lashing beams. "Monday, September 27th. At half-past 6 A. M. Weighed in company with theInvestigator made all sail to the north-west. We were both obliged tocome to; the wind freshening, we weighed, but it again dying away weanchored. At half-past 9. A. M. Made sail. "Tuesday, September 28th. At half-past 3 A. M. Weighed in company withH. M. S. Investigator and made sail to northward. At 6 A. M. Spoke theCommodore and received orders to keep ahead. A high island we passed thismorning south by west distant 12 or 14 miles, * (* North Point Island. ) ahigh short island under our lee north-west by west distant 10 or 11miles. Long high land on our weather bow north-east by north distant 11or 12 miles. * (* Percy Islands. ) Latitude observed 21 degrees 52 minutes41 seconds south. "Wednesday, September 29th. Stood after the Commodore. At this time Iperceived that several of the islands in sight were covered with pines ofthe same kind as Port Number 2. At half-past 7 P. M. Anchored with thekedge; answered a signal light from the Investigator with one at themain. At daylight weighed and stood towards the Investigator. Athalf-past 5 A. M. She also weighed and we proceeded a little nearer to thelarge island mentioned in yesterday's log and on turn of tide we came to. Observed Captain Flinders* (* "Not a single native was seen either on theshores of Thirsty or Broad Sound during. .. Our stay. " Flinders. ) in hiswhale-boat go ashore with several of the officers and gentlemen, not tothe large island but to a small island within about 2 miles of it andfrom which it bore west-south-west. * (* "We landed first at the isletwhere the same kind of pine is seen as at Port Bowen. " Flinders. ) Athalf-past 9 A. M. Hove up and made towards the Commodore who was underweigh, standing on to the body of a large pine island. Kept standing upfor a sandy beach on the southern end of the large Pine Island and athalf-past 11 A. M. The Commodore dropped anchor; stood on past him and atnoon came to with the kedge* (* At Number 2 Island, the largest of thePercy Islands. ) the small Pine Island bearing south-west by west distant1 1/4 miles Peak of Pines like a sugar loaf north distant 5 or 6miles. *. .. (* "To the northern Percy Isles, each of which is a hillsomewhat peaked but that on Number 3 is much the most so and thehighest. .. Is called Pine Peak. " Flinders. ) "Thursday, September 30th. I went on shore and by a narrow passageentered a sheet of water entirely surrounded by the mountainous part ofthe island, with here and there pines which on the whole has a beautifuland romantic appearance. I searched for fresh water but found none, however Captain Flinders found plenty. A. M. I went on shore with a partyin order to clear a rolling way for our casks as also did captainFlinders and Lieutenant Fowler with 20 men, by noon this was completedand the well began to be dug and cleared out; by an unlucky accident thedry grass with which most of the ground is covered caught fire and burntwith great fury driving the people away from the principalwatering-place. "Friday, October 1st. On shore digging wells and clearing them out. Byhalf-past 3 P. M. The fire had increased so as to make us retreat to thesandy beach and even here it nearly reached us by 7 P. M. It continued toburn all night. .. Covering the whole of the hills (particularly the tops)with a fringe of white fire while all the way down to the bases resembleda large town on a dark night well lighted up. By the morning it hadconsiderably abated. "Saturday, October 2nd. Employed completing our water which was done bysunset and the hold stowed. Secured everything for sea. The Investigatorcontinued watering. Found a part of our best bower cable so much decayedfrom wear that I cut off, from the anchor end, 15 fathoms and fresh bentit again. Before we leave this island I think it proper to observe itlies (from where we lay at anchor) about north by east and south by westits latitude is 21 degrees 40 minutes 02 seconds south and its longitudeby Timekeeper 150 degrees 23 minutes 27 seconds east, it will easily beknown from a high peak of stones that at a distance will look like itsnorthern end. On this peak several pines are growing. On its northern endis a sandy beach from which the entrance of the circular sheet of wateris immediately seen. On this beach we caught the first day plenty of fishand it is remarkable that since few have been caught. Bearing south-westfrom this place at about 2 miles distance is a small island of pines withtwo or three rocks lying about it, to the westward at a distance of 8 or9 miles is a rugged island with two peaks covered with pines, one of themmuch higher than the other, and to the north-west about 10 or 11 miles isan island of table-land with a bluff head on its southern end all roundare islands of different sizes but this watering island cannot bemistaken or missed. "Monday, October 4th. At 6 A. M. Weighed in company with the Investigatorand made sail to the Northward. "Tuesday, October 5th. Worked to windward. .. At 5 P. M. Tacked. At sundownthe Stony Peak on watering island bore south by west high peak of Pineswest distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At noon the high Peak of Pines boresouth-west by south distant about 17 or 18 miles, the peak on WateringIsland south-south-west distant 19 or 20 miles. * (* Mr. Murray seems tohave given Number 2 offing the name of Watering Island. ) "Wednesday, October 6th. At half-past 1 answered signal "Follow me, "answered signal "Make sail ahead. " At this time we saw a long range ofsand reefs in the east and west direction and three small rocks borenorth-east by north distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. * (* "They were not thoseseen by Mr. Campbell though they form part of the same barrier. .. Thereefs were not dry with the exception of some black lumps which resembledthe round heads of negroes, these being dead coral. " Flinders. ) Answeredsignal of 'Danger, ' following the Investigator and keeping a good lookoutfrom the mast-head. At half-past 1 P. M. The high peak of pines boresouth-south-west distant about 22 miles which proves those extensivereefs to be placed very erroneously on the chart owing to theincorrectness of Messrs. Swaine and Campbell, they having laid them downnearly 2 degrees off the land instead of which they are only distant 20miles from the nearest island. Quarter past 6 P. M. Came to in 28 fathomswith the kedge; the Investigator north-east by north quarter of a miledistant. * (* "At six anchored in 27 fathoms coarse sand. " Flinders. ) Atdaylight the Investigator began to heave up and we did the same, by 6A. M. Made sail. Received orders to keep ahead with a good lookout forshoals. Saw a shoal of sand with two small rocks on it from north-east;at half-past 10 A. M. Being within 2 miles of the shoal tacked. At noonthe rocks on the shoal bore north-west a little westerly distant 2 miles. Received additional instructions signals and cd. From Captain Flinders. *(* "I sent a boat with instructions to Lieutenant Murray. .. In case of ourseparation. " Flinders. ) "Thursday, October 7th. Stood on after the Investigator and weathered thelast-mentioned reef of coral. At half-past 4 A. M. Weighed and made sailto the south-east. At half-past 10 A. M. Saw a reef of coral ahead, several parts of which were above water considerably much like theappearance of boats under sail. * (* "Upon these reefs were more of thedry black lumps called negro heads. " Flinders. ) "Friday October 8th. At half-past 5 P. M. Tacked to the northward, reefsstill in sight. At 9 A. M. Tacked after the Commodore, a reef of coralrock bearing east to east-north-east distant 4 or 4 1/2 miles. At noonthe Investigator bore north by east distant 1 1/2 miles, a shoal of sandapparently bearing north distant 5 or 6 miles, another bearing north-eastby north distant 4 miles and a small rock on an extensive shoal of sandeast by south distant 1 1/2 miles, this shoal seems to stretch a long wayfrom east-south-east to north-east. Latitude observed 20 degrees 54minutes 42 seconds south. "Saturday, October 9th. From 2 P. M. Until 3 (after having weathered theEast point of this shoal) we ran along its other side. At half-past 5P. M. Came to. From the mast-head shoals in every direction. At half-past5 A. M. Weighed in company with the Commodore and stood to the north-east. 9 A. M. Perceiving a strong ripple close to us and supposing it to beshoal water let go our kedge and made the signal of danger to theCommodore who also came to and sent his boats to sound as did we butfound no less than 15 fathoms. At 11 A. M. The Investigator's whale-boatmade the signal for shoal water and the Commodore made the signal toanchor which we immediately did in 22 fathoms, bottom small coral andshells. The Investigator also anchored. We found ourselves within acable's length of a shoal and all round shoals of sand and extensivecoral reefs. Latitude observed 20 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds south. "Sunday, October 10th. P. M. Sent the boat to examine the reefs of coralnear us. At 4 P. M. The boat returned on board; found the coral to be ofmany different colours--blue, yellow, green, and in short in every colourwe know of--found some very large cockles and a few small shells--foundthe tide to ebb to run due north-east not less than 2 1/2 knots but whenit sallys over the flats and reefs it may be 5 knots. At half-past 4 P. M. Weighed and sent the boat ahead to tow and got our sweeps on. At 45minutes past 5 A. M. Made sail in company with the Commodore stood onahead with the Investigator's boat ahead of us sounding. This morning wepassed a great deal of suspicious water but saw no rocks or shoals dry. "Monday, October 11th. Stood on ahead of the Investigator broken waterand reefs on both sides of us. At half-past 4 P. M. Saw some veryextensive reefs ahead, they seemed to train as far aft as our beam oneeach side of us. An appearance of an opening shows itself to thewest-north-west as also one to the North, all else is broken water, reefsof coral and patches of coarse whitish sand or more probably coral. Athalf-past 5 A. M. Weighed and made sail to the northward keeping ahead ofthe Investigator half a mile, and her boat ahead of us sounding. * (*"Next morning the brig and whale-boat went ahead and we steered afterthem. The east opening was choaked up and we had scarcely entered that tothe West when Mr. Murray made a signal for 'danger' the Lady Nelson wascarried rapidly to the south-east seemingly without being sensible ofit. .. I made the signal of recall. " Flinders. ) After running on thiscourse about a mile and a half and being then close up to the tail of thecoral reef north-east of us we suddenly found ourselves in 4 fathoms ofwater and plainly saw the bottom consisting of large rocks of coral. Immediately made the signal of 'Danger' to the Commodore. We shoaled into2 fathoms tacked and running south we found a very rapid tide with us andon passing between two reefs the current of tide I imagine could not beless than 6 knots. During this time the Investigator followed after us, but at 7 A. M. She made the signal to anchor. When she was a littlebrought up we had no bottom with 50 fathoms of line and on her breakingher sheer she at once broke the warp 65 fathoms from ye kedge, both ofwhich we lost. I fancy it got round the top of a rock of coral as we havereason to suspect it foul ground. Immediately made all sail and stoodtowards the Investigator and the wind fortunately freshening we passedher and acquainted Captain Flinders with our loss. He told me to anchornear him. * (* "We rode a great strain on the strain cable, it parted andwe lost an anchor. Mr. Murray had lost a kedge and was then riding by abower. " Flinders. ) Accordingly at 9 A. M. We anchored but she quicklydrove into the stream of tide, and there, to my surprise, the anchor heldon. Answered signal 'Weigh, ' tried to do so but found it impossible--heldfast--in a little time the tide slackened somewhat and Captain Flinderssent a boat and men to assist in getting up our anchor, began to heave upand were fortunate enough to get it with the loss of one arm, the cablenot much damaged--made sail after the Commodore. Received from H. M. S. Investigator 2 grapplings. * (* "Our anchor had swivelled in the stock. Sent Mr. Murray 2 grapnels, which were all that our losses could allow ofbeing spared. " Flinders. ) "Tuesday, October 12th. At daylight weighed in company with theInvestigator and made sail to the northward. At half-past 7 A. M. We bothcame to. .. "Wednesday, October 13th. At 1 P. M. Weighed in company with the Commodoreand made all sail; by half-past 2 P. M. Reefs in sight from north toeast-north-east. . At daylight lay to for the Investigator who joined us by7 A. M. On sounding we found the bottom altered from coarse sand, coraland broken shells to very fine sand and small shells. .. The wind favouringus the Commodore stood on. The appearance of the water this morning hasbeen suspicious, however, I imagine it is caused by the sun's reflection, and being calm, the Investigator's boat has been ahead all morning. Athalf-past 10 A. M. The Commodore came to and we did the same with the twograpplings backing one another, and they held on. "Thursday, October 14th. At half-past 5 P. M. Reefs of coral in sight;body of them distant 2 1/2 or 3 miles. At daylight weighed in companywith the Investigator and stood to southward; at half-past 7 A. M. Reefsof coral in sight, three middling large rocks seen bearing south by east;we also at this time saw the land bearing west-south-west distant 14 or15 leagues, made the signal of seeing it to the Investigator: by 8 A. M. Perceived it was islands, three in number. At noon one island bore westby north distant 6 or 7 miles. This island appears very barren and rocky, and an island that, from its appearance took to be the Isle of Pines, next Watering Island south-south-east distant 16 or 17 miles. "Friday, October 15th. 6 P. M. What I suppose to be the Peak of Pines nearWatering Island bore south by east distant 22 or 24 miles: Barren Islandwest by south distant 6 or 7 miles: high hummocks of land west distantabout 9 miles. "Sunday, October 16th. At 4 P. M. A large island with a fire on it boresouth-west by south distant 6 or 7 miles: a lowish island of rugged landsouth by east distant 7 or 8 miles: an island with two hills on itsouth-west by west distant 5 or 6 miles: a low island with severalhillocks west-south-west distant 8 or 9 miles. At sundown passed within aquarter of a mile of a high perpendicular peak of one of CumberlandIsles, and at half-past 6 P. M. Anchored in 20 fathoms with the smallbower, bottom fine blue sand. Commodore anchored distant 1/4 of a mile. At 6 A. M. I went on shore in order to look for water as well as to seewhat the island produced, we cut down a couple of pines, fit one for atop-mast the other for a top-sail yard. On this island a number of pinesare growing, some palm trees one of which Mr. Brown, the naturalist ofthe Investigator, thinks is not common. This island is not inhabited butseems occasionally to be visited. Two of the other islands are inhabitedas on both of them were fires last night. On the north-west side is abeach of coarse coral and sand, on which a few dried shells were pickedup, from this beach a considerable way out the bottom large coral rocks. A number of porpoises and sharks were seen about us this forenoon butnone caught. "Sunday, October 17th. At 6 A. M. Weighed in company with theInvestigator, made sail to northward; by noon the Cumberlands from southby south-west to west by north; and the Investigator east by southdistant 4 miles. From the colour of the water and a long steady swell Ijudge we are nearly clear of the northern extremity of the reefs. I havenow had several opportunities of seeing that from the want of our mainand after keels we are so leewardly that the Investigator in 6 hours willget with ease 4 miles to windward of the brig. "Monday, October 18th. Stood on after the Investigator. At 6 P. M. Sheanchored within half a mile of us, on which I immediately came to in 34fathoms with the small bower. Saw a boat lowered and in half an hourLieutenant Fowler came on board and informed me that Captain Flindersmeant to part company in the morning with the brig and therefore to getall ready for that purpose. * (* The Lady Nelson sailed so ill "that shenot only caused us delay but ran great risk of being lost. The zeal he(Lieutenant Murray) had shown. .. Increased my regret. .. At parting from ourlittle consort. " Flinders. ) At daylight hoisted out our long boat andsent her on board the Investigator. I received from Captain Flindersorders to proceed to Port Jackson with the Lady Nelson as fast ascircumstances would allow. I also received a letter on service to HisExcellency Governor King, as well as some private letters. Half-past 8A. M. I took leave of Captain Flinders and returned on board, hove up. Atthis time the Investigator hoisted her colours and we did the same, shestanding away to the westward and we to the southward. By 40 minutes past10 A. M. We took our last view of H. M. S. Investigator, hertop-gallant-sails just being in the vane of the horizon. * (* At "9o'clock got under weigh and showed our colours to bid farewell to theLady Nelson. " Flinders. ) At noon Cumberland Island in sight, a large onedistant 10 or 11 miles. Discharged to H. M. S. Investigator, Mr. Lacy, Henry Willis and Thomas Shirly and received in lieu Jeremiah Wolsey andNanbury (a native). * (* "Nanbarre, one of the two natives, havingexpressed a wish to go back to Port Jackson was sent to the Lady Nelsonin the morning. " Flinders. ) Latitude observed 20 degrees 178 minutes 16seconds south. "Tuesday, October 19th. By half-past 5 P. M. Having run in between twovery high islands covered with pines, came to in 10 fathoms water withthe small bower, as the highest of the islands was in several places onfire. I lowered our boat and sent the First Mate in her to speak to thenatives who I supposed must be on the island but when he returned, hetold me few of their traces were seen. A part of one of their canoes wasfound and brought on board, from its appearance I deemed it not muchsuperior in structure from those of the natives of Sydney. From where welay (which is safe and secure anchorage with a blue clay bottom) the highpeak of the nearest or eastern of those islands bore east-south-east, therest of the Cumberlands lying in all directions of us. At daylightweighed and stood to the north-north-east, kept tacking occasionally towindward as it was my wish to get sight of the island we last watered atchiefly to ascertain whether the Timekeeper had kept its rate. At noonwore as she repeatedly missed stays from the want of her keels and ashort confused sea ahead. "Wednesday, October 20th. From noon till 2 P. M. Kept trying to work towindward but she refusing stays I bore away for our former anchoragewhich having gained at 3 P. M. Came to. Lowered down the boat and I wenton shore unarmed supposing that should the island have any natives on it, they might be induced to show themselves. I was disappointed for Ineither saw them or anything of consequence, one tree or plant excepted, which I had never seen before: as Nanbury, a native of Sydney on board, said he knew nothing of such a tree, as well as some people who had beena long time in New South Wales. .. I took a large specimen of it on boardand hope it will keep. "Thursday, October 21st. P. M. Sent a party on shore to examine thehighest peak of the island to look for water and to get the bearings ofthe island. When they returned I was informed that the southernmost pointof the main (which I presume is Cape Hillsborough) bore south-east 1/2east. It was the mate's opinion natives had been there a few days ago, asround their fires were plenty of turtle bones scattered about. Ouranchorage last left bore south by west distant 2 miles. "Friday, October 22nd. At 8 P. M. Came to in our old anchorage. At 8weighed, cleared the narrow passage between the islands we anchoredunder. .. We had chosen the worst place they afford: as on this side fromthe number of islands that lie all around as well as Cape Hillsboroughand the island off it, we found the water quiet and smooth. 9 A. M. Madeall sail for a large island to the south-east and by noon were abreast ofits eastern extremity. This island has the most romantic and beautifulappearance of any I have ever beheld and from its north-west point to itsnorth-east point is nothing but a continuation of safe and well-shelteredbays, the shores of which consist of white sand beaches intercepted hereand there with patches of coral rocks: the edges of these in severalplaces are lined with low mangroves, behind which tall pines rise, forming a beautiful contrast, these however rise not so high as tointercept our view of bold front-land which much resembles the hills ofNorfolk when the grain on them is ripe, and over all these towering to agreat height rise the inland hills covered with very high pines, on thewhole I scarcely ever saw so fine a view. At noon the body of it borenorth 1/2 east distant 3 miles, island of anchorage north-north-westdistant 14 miles, an island at which I mean to anchor for the night (ifwe reach it) east by E. Distant 6 or 7 miles. Latitude observed 20degrees 48 minutes 44 seconds south. "Saturday, October 23rd. By half-past 4 P. M. Came to with our brokenbower and it held her safe all night although the remaining arm did nottake, a thing by the way rather odd as I had a short boom slung to it. 4A. M. Weighed and made all sail for Watering Island. By noon a remarkablepeak on the mainland south-west, several other islands in sight indifferent directions. Since leaving Broad Sound until now the sea hadbeen constantly covered in different places with an oily brown slimeinsomuch that it has often occasioned me to suspect shoal water. "Sunday, October 24th. At sundown the body of Watering Island boredistant 10 or 11 miles, some other of the Northumberland islands bearingfrom north to south-west. We found the soundings to be from 18 to 10fathoms, being inside some of the Offing Islands and within thewesternmost edge of the extensive barrier reefs 20 miles. At 6 P. M. Cameto with our broken anchor. At midnight weighed and made for WateringIsland with all sail. By 6 A. M. Got within three miles of our lateanchorage where we came to, body of Stony Peak of the Island bearingeast-south-east. At 40 minutes past 9 A. M. Again weighed. .. At noon gotwithin one mile and a half of the anchorage. "Monday, October 25th. By half past 1 P. M. Having with the help of oursweeps gained nearly our old berth came to, I went on shore, found ourwell overflowing with good clear water. By noon our water was completed. A duck, pigeon and pheasant were shot on the hills to-day. "Tuesday, October 26th. At daylight weighed and made sail. By 8 A. M. Therocky peak on the north end of Watering Island distant 10 or 11 miles. Stood on through the Offing Isles of Northumberland Islands. "Wednesday, October 27th. At 6 P. M. It being nearly calm came to in 17fathoms with our broken anchor, Cape Townsend* (* Cape Townshend. )bearing south-east distant 3 or 5 miles, hill of Pines (its base)south-west distant 9 or 10 miles. A confused sea made me determined atslack water to weigh and run into better anchorage, at half-past 10 A. M. Weighed and made sail up under Cape Townsend. "Thursday, October 28th. At 1/4 past 1 P. M. Came to with our brokenanchor, veered away, but on her bringing up the cable parted although thestrain was very trifling. The other bower was let go and it did not forsome time bring her up. Perceiving all hopes of regaining our anchor orcable to be in vain, from our having so considerably shifted our berth aswell as our having only one small boat, she almost in pieces, and itbeing absolutely necessary to get from here into a place of safety, I gottwo of the swivel guns cross-lashed, in short made as good an anchor ofthem as their nature would admit of, hoping that in light winds andsmooth waters they would somewhat save our only remaining anchor. At 3P. M. Made sail further up into Shoal Water Bay, where we anchored withthe swivels; they held her, there being no tide and but little wind. At40 minutes past 7 P. M. Let go the bower anchor and in the morning weighedit as well as the swivels and made sail up the Bay, where we anchored;lowered down the boat and sent the seine to haul, also the carpenter tolook for a tree that might make a wooden anchor which with being loadedwould answer in case of necessity. "Friday, October 29th. Carpenter employed on the iron-bark anchor. "Saturday, October 30th. At half-past 10 A. M. Weighed and made sailtowards the southern outlet of the bay. By the time we got within a mileand a half of it we had light baffling flaws all round; this outlet isnarrow and several sunken rocks lie scattered about. We anchored as muchout of the tide as possible. "Sunday, October 30th. * (* Evidently meant to be the 31st. ) 1 P. M. Hoveup and made sail into snug anchorage, came to in 1/4 5 fathoms. .. By 5P. M. The wooden anchor being finished bent our small bower cable to it, hove up the bower and let go the wood anchor which however did not rideher, we therefore dropped the bower again and let the other remain inhopes that by getting the water lodged (as its weight would consequentlyincrease) it might ride us in soft ground. "Monday, November 1st. P. M. The party that were on shore returned, theyinformed me that one very large kangaroo was shot but escaped owing tothe thickness of the bush, some small ones were also seen; a couple ofpheasants and a pigeon were shot. A. M. Sent two men on shore in order totry for a kangaroo. "Tuesday, November 2nd. I would have gone to sea had the tide not beenrunning strong into the Bay. Weighed our wooden anchor and loaded it withtwo swivels, this I would imagine would ride her in moderate weather. "Wednesday, November 3rd. At 8 A. M. Weighed and made all sail towindward. By 10 A. M. Flood having made in we were obliged to come to withour wooden anchor which I had the satisfaction to see held on. "Thursday, November 4th. Half-past 3 P. M. Weighed and worked to windwardthe outlet of the bay. By 5 P. M. Gained the narrows of the entrance. Found a very strong tide running out. By 6 P. M. Cleared the outlet. "Friday, November 5th. From 1 P. M. To 5 running through Keppel's Islandssouth. At daylight land in sight from West to south by west; setstudding-sails. "Saturday, November 6th. From noon to 3 P. M. Fresh winds and gloomyweather with dripping rain and some distant thunder. Saw Sandy Capebearing east-south-east distant 10 or 11 miles could not see theland. .. Came to with our wood anchor in 12 fathoms, Sandy Cape bearingsouth-east by east distant 10 miles. .. "Sunday, November 7th. Until half-past 3 P. M. We stood along the northernedge of Breaksea Spit when, it being calm, came to in 14 fathoms waterwith our wood anchor, Sandy Cape bearing south-east by south distant 10or 11 miles. .. "Monday, November 8th. At half-past 9 A. M. Sandy Cape bore south distant18 miles. At 10 A. M. Saw Breaksea Spit breaking from south-west by southto West distant about 6 miles. At noon tacked to the northward, SandyCape bearing south by west distant 10 miles. "Tuesday, November 9th. A high sea throughout. At noon no land in sight. Latitude observed 24 degrees 19 minutes 58 seconds south. "Wednesday, November 10th. At Sundown Sandy Cape bore west 1/2 southdistant 10 miles Sandy Point west distant 10 or 11 miles, spit breakingvery high out to west by north, the southern extremes of land bearingsouth distant 14 miles, favourable. "Thursday, November 11th. At noon fine weather and moderate winds with aconfused sea. All sail set, the extremes of the land bearing fromsouth-west to north-west distant each 7 or 8 leagues. Latitude observed25 degrees 38 minutes 50 seconds south. "Friday, November 12th. At sundown Double Island Point west 1/2 southdistant 6 or 7 leagues; at 10 P. M. Tacked to the southward. .. At noon theGlass Houses on Glass House Bay south-west by south distant 6 or 7leagues. "Saturday, November 13th. At daylight no land in sight, at 8 A. M. Sawland bearing south-west distant 6 or 7 leagues. "Sunday, November 14th. At 10 A. M. After a deal of rain a light airsprung up at north. Observed Latitude Dead Reckoning 26 degrees 38minutes 00 seconds south. "Monday, November 15th. At 8 A. M. Saw some high land bearingwest-south-west distant 8 leagues. Until noon we had light squalls andvery hard rain. No observation of Latitude 27 degrees 35 minutes 00seconds: I conclude myself to be one degree more to South than the D. R. *(* Dead Reckoning. ) gives and not so far East by about 14 or 15 miles. "Tuesday, November 16th. At 4 A. M. Tacked to southward, settop-gallant-sails and stay-sails; no land in sight. Latitude observed 29degrees 07 minutes 28 seconds south. "Wednesday, November 17th. At 4 P. M. Tacked to south-west. "Thursday, November 18th. At noon fresh clear wind at north-north-westand a high confused sea on, set all sail we could. "Friday, November 19th. Saw land bearing west by south distant 4 or 5leagues this I take to be Smoaky Cape, if it is, a strong westerlycurrent must have run, for by account when I made the land our latitudewas 30 degrees 46 minutes 39 seconds south 3 miles to the westward ofSmoaky Cape but our longitude deducted from yesterday's time-keeper 153degrees 50 minutes 00 seconds east 40 miles to the eastward of it whichmakes the current to have set us west 28 miles. At noon Smoaky Cape borewest 1/2 south distant 6 leagues. "Saturday, November 20th. At noon what I supposed to be the Brothers borewest-south-west distant 6 or 7 leagues. "Sunday, November 21st. Fresh breezes and cloudy, latter part variablewind and thick weather. No land in sight. "Monday, November 22nd. At 5 A. M. The north head of Port Jackson. .. Boresouth-west distant 4 leagues. At 8 A. M. The north head bore West distant1 league. At 40 minutes past 10 A. M. Came to with the bower in SydneyCove abreast of the Governor's wharf, found lying here H. M. S. Buffalowhich was returned. "Tuesday, November 23rd. Winds all round the compass with much thunderand lightning. Employed preparing for sea. " [Facsimile signature Jno Murray] Commander. CHAPTER 8. THE FRENCH SHIPS IN BASS STRAIT. THE FOUNDING OF HOBART. On Murray's return to Sydney on November 22nd, 1802, after his partingwith Flinders, he learned that Commodore Baudin's ships had left theharbour four days previously. The French vessels had made a lengthy stayin port. The Geographe entered the Heads on June 20th, 1802, during theabsence of the Lady Nelson at the Hawkesbury, and for that reason we findno record of her arrival in Murray's log; eight days afterwards theNaturaliste came to Port Jackson for the second time, and joined herconsort at the anchorage in Neutral Bay. In consequence of foul weather, Hamelin could not double the South Capeof Van Diemen's Land, and the meeting of the ships at Sydney, after theirlong separation, gave great satisfaction to those on board. The Frenchofficers and sailors were most hospitably received by the Governor, although England and France were still supposed to be at war, and many ofthe French officers were soon on friendly terms with the chief residentsand officials. The news that peace had been concluded between the twocountries, which arrived shortly afterwards, Peron says "could addnothing to the friendly sentiments of the English at Port Jackson but wasa subject of rejoicing on the part of our companions. " At Sydney Baudin became aware of the full extent of the Englishdiscoveries on the southern coast. Not until then could he have known allthe results of the explorations of Grant and Murray in the Lady Nelson, for up to the time of the arrival of the French at Sydney, only two shipshad ever visited Port Phillip. One of these was, of course, the LadyNelson, the other the Investigator under Captain Flinders. Flinders had, as we have seen, met Baudin in Encounter Bay, when thecommander of the Investigator was himself ignorant of the fact that PortPhillip had been discovered and entered by Murray. At this interviewBaudin informed Flinders that the Geographe had "explored the south coastfrom Western Port to our place of meeting without finding any river, inlet or other shelter which afforded anchorage. --This statement ofBaudin's is contradicted by Peron in his history of the voyage, who says, that on March 30th Port Phillip was seen from the masthead of theGeographe and was given the name Port du Debut, "but, " he adds, "hearingafterwards that it had been more minutely surveyed by the English brigLady Nelson and had been named Port Phillip we, with greater pleasure, continued this last name from its recalling that of the founder of acolony in which we met with succour so effective and so liberallygranted. " Louis de Freycinet also states that the entrance to the Portwas seen by those on board the Geographe. A drawing of Port Phillipafterwards appeared under the name Port du Debut on his own charts. * (*Through the kindness of M. Le Comte de Fleurieu some extracts fromBaudin's journal have been placed in the writer's hands. From these itwould appear that the Geographe passed Western Port without recognisingit, and in continuing to voyage westward saw a port which those on boardimagined to be Western Port, but which possibly was Port Phillip. )Freycinet denied that the map had been plagiarised, as was generallybelieved in England, by the unlawful use of Flinders' charts, * (* SeeAtlas, 1st Edition Voyage de Decouvertes aux Terres Australes, 1807. F. Peron and L. De Freycinet. Freycinet was not in the Geographe when shemet the Investigator, he was then in the Naturaliste. He acknowledgedthat the drawing of Port Phillip in the Terre Napoleon was taken from amanuscript chart made on board the English ship Arniston and found amongthe papers of the Fame captured by the French in 1806 (Voyage deDecouvertes 3 430). The Arniston was one of a fleet of ships under convoyof H. M. S. Athenian which was sent to China via Van Diemen's Land andNorfolk Island. ) and there is no reason to disbelieve him; but it isquite possible that Flinders did show Freycinet either his own chart ofPort Phillip, or one made by Murray, during the stay of the French atPort Jackson. When Baudin sailed westward along the south coast from Wilson'sPromontory towards Encounter Bay--before his meeting with Flinders--hebestowed French names upon places that had been already discovered andnamed by the English, giving to Cape Patton (of Grant) the title of CapeSuffrein, Cape Albany Otway (of Grant) that of Cape Marengo, and CapeSchanck (of Grant) that of Cape Richelieu. Portland Bay, also named byGrant, became Tourville Bay; Montaigne Cape took the place-name of CapeSolicitor; Lady Julia Island became Fourcroy Island; Lawrence's Island, Dragon Island; and Cape Bridgewater, Cape Montesquieu. In this mannernearly the whole of Grant's discoveries were rechristened. * (* Somewriters give the French name of Cape Desaix, bestowed in honour of one ofNapoleon's famous generals, to Cape Albany Otway. Pinkerton's translatorof the History to Southern Lands, however, states that the French namedCape Otway, Cape Marengo. ) The presence of Baudin's expedition in Australian waters may be said tohave considerably hurried on the British colonisation of Tasmania. Although Bass and Flinders had in 1798 circumnavigated the island, addingextensive discoveries to those already made by Furneaux, Hayes, Bligh, and other British seamen, it was realised in Sydney that the French mightlay claim to some portion of the island. During Baudin's visit his officers surveyed the eastern coast morethoroughly than any previous navigators, although they must have knownthat Tasmania was then regarded by the British as their territory. * (*The commission of Governor Phillip, read publicly when he landed atSydney in 1788, had proclaimed him ruler of all the land from Cape Yorkto South Cape in Tasmania. ) Baudin's enquiries elicited as much fromGovernor King at Sydney. It was natural therefore that after thedeparture of the French ships, when King heard a rumour that theyintended to take possession of a port in Tasmania, * (* Baie du Nord. ) heshould send Acting-Lieutenant Robbins in the Cumberland after thevessels, who, finding them at anchor at King Island, immediately hoistedthe Union Jack there and daily saluted it during their stay. It was uponseeing the British flag flying on this island that Baudin is said to haveobserved "that the English were worse than the Pope, for whereas hegrasped half the world the English took the whole of it. " Commodore Baudin afterwards wrote to Governor King assuring him that therumour as to his intentions was without foundation, but, he added, "Perhaps he (Robbins) has come too late as for several days before hehoisted the flag over our tents we had left in prominent parts of theisland (which I still name after you) proofs of the period at which wevisited it. " This insinuation evidently raised King's ire, as he made anote on the margin of the letter, "If Mr. Baudin insinuates any claim ofthis visit the island was first discovered in 1798* (* King writes 1799in the chart. ) by Mr. Reid in the Martha and afterwards seen by Mr. Blackin the Harbinger and surveyed by Mr. Murray in February 1802. " Baudinseems to have totally ignored what could not have been a secret at PortJackson, namely, the fact that the Lady Nelson had surveyed King Islandfrom Cape Farewell to Seal Bay. To return to the story of the logbooks. After another voyage to NorfolkIsland, whither the Lady Nelson conveyed troops to relieve the men there, Murray was forced to resign his command, the Governor being informed, indespatches from the Admiralty, that he had sent them an erroneousstatement of his services. In writing to Secretary Nepean, King remarks, on April 12th, 1803, "I had the honour of receiving yours respecting thediscovery. .. About Mr. Murray's statement of servitude which appeared inhis passing certificate at the Cape of Good Hope, in consequence of whichhe has been superseded in the command of the Lady Nelson and goes home apassenger in the Glatton. He promises himself being able to clear thepoint up to their Lordships' satisfaction. Should he be able toaccomplish this, I consider it but doing common justice to hisperseverance and good conduct while in command of the Lady Nelson to saythat his future services in that vessel would be very acceptable to meand beneficial to the service that the vessel is employed on. Inconsequence of Mr. Murray's being superseded from the Lady Nelson, Iapplied to Captain Colnett for a person to command her not having anyonewho can be spared, either from the Buffalo or Porpoise. He has appointedthe master's mate of the Glatton, Mr. George Courtoys, * (* The name isspelt Curtoys in the Commander's own log. ) who is passed and appearsequal to the charge of Acting-Lieutenant and Commander of that vessel. " Murray's charts and the journal of his discoveries were sent home to theDuke of Portland by Governor King. They were committed to the care ofLieutenant Mackellar, who embarked in an American vessel named theCaroline, * (* Historical Records of New South Wales volume 4 pages 734and 764. ) which left Sydney on March 29th, 1802, and we know that theyreached Whitehall safely. After his arrival in England, Murray seems tohave been able to clear up satisfactorily his misunderstanding with theauthorities, for shortly after his return he was appointed an AdmiraltySurveyor, and his name is found upon several charts of the Home Coastsexecuted by him in 1804, 1805, and 1807. In 1803 the Governor gave orders to the Commanders of H. M. S. Porpoise andof the Lady Nelson to embark the first colonists and proceed with them toTasmania. The Lady Nelson, under the command of Lieutenant Curtoys, andhaving on board Lieutenant John Bowen, * (* Lieutenant John Bowen, R. N. , came to Sydney in H. M. S. Glatton and was a son of Captain John Bowen andnephew of Lieutenant Richard Bowen, R. N. , Admiralty Agent on board theAtlantic, which visited New South Wales in 1792. ) the Commandant of thenew establishment, as well as several other persons chosen by GovernorKing to accompany him, left Sydney early in June, while the Porpoisefollowed a few days later. Both ships returned without being able to maketheir port of destination. The Porpoise was seventeen days out and foulweather compelled her to return to Sydney, which she reached on July 3rd, while the Lady Nelson came back the next day, having been unable toproceed farther than Twofold Bay, where she waited for a change of wind. Upon putting to sea again, her main keel was carried away and she wasthen forced to abandon her project. Governor King chartered the Albion whaler 326 tons, Captain Ebor Bunker, to take the place of the Porpoise in the next attempt to send coloniststo Tasmania, and both ships reached Risdon safely, the Lady Nelsonarriving on the 7th of September and the Albion, with Lieutenant Bowen onboard, five days later. * (* Risdon (afterwards called Hobart byLieutenant Bowen) was so named by Captain John Hayes of the BombayMarine, who, in command of two ships the Duke of Clarence and theDuchess, visited Tasmania in 1793. The name was given in honour of Mr. William Bellamy Risdon, second officer of the Duke of Clarence. CaptainHayes also named the River Derwent. ) The people were safely landed, butunfortunately much of the stock in the vessels was injured during thegale that raged after leaving Sydney. Many eligible places for asettlement presented themselves, and the Commandant eventually choseRisdon, because there the best stream of water ran into the cove and alsobecause there were extensive valleys behind it. A few natives were seenwhen the Lady Nelson came into the harbour, but they quickly retired intothe woods. The delay in the Albion's passage was caused by Captain Bunkerputting in to Oyster Bay to avoid the bad weather. He stayed three daysin the bay, where his crew killed three large spermaceti whales. LOG OF THE LADY NELSON IN SYDNEY COVE. GEORGE CURTOYS, Commander. "Friday, 10th June (1803). P. M. Moderate and cloudy. Came on boardLieutenant Bowen, 10 convicts and 3 soldiers for Van Dieman's Land: at 6A. M. Hove short; 1/2 past fired a gun and made signal for a pilot, at 1/2past weighed and made sail out of the harbour. "Wednesday, 15th June. Fresh breezes and cloudy: at 8 squally, bore upfor Twofold Bay the wind seeming to be set in from the Southward andlikely to blow hard. "Friday, June 24th. Moderate and clear at 5 and found the Bay at 5: cameto with best bower and moored ship 1/2 cable's length from the shore. Employed making a raft of our spars and main keel: sent the carpenters onshore to build a punt. "Saturday, 25th June. Down long top-gallant mast and up short ones. "Sunday, 26th June. Sent empty casks on shore. "Monday, 27th June. Employed setting up the lower and top-mast rigging:received wood and water. "Tuesday, 28th June. Saw a sloop in the offing standing in to the Baymade signal for all persons to return on board. "Wednesday, 29th June. Got all ready for sea: unmoored and shoved furtherout. A. M. Strong breezes; made signal for the sloop to come down--provedto be the John of Sydney. "Friday, 1st July. Light breezes; at 3 weighed and stood out of the Bay;at 3. 30 reefed top sails: at 11. 30 saw part of the main keel go astern:bore for Port Jackson. "Monday, 4th July. Moderate and clear: running along-shore; at 11standing into Port Jackson. "Tuesday, 5th July. Moderate and clear weather: at 2 came to above theSow and Pigs: at 3. 50 weighed and made sail up the harbour. Came on boardthe Pilot: at 5 got on shore on Bennilong's Point; carried away the forefoot and fore keel: at 6 came to in Sydney Cove. Moored in Port Jackson. "Monday, 29th August. Fresh breezes and cloudy: at 5 got under weigh, tacked occasionally--at 7 South Head west by north 5 miles. "Tuesday, 30th August. Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. 3. 20 wore roundon starboard tack. "Wednesday, 31st August. Moderate and cloudy; at 4 carried away the foretop-mast: at 5. 30 carried away the gaff. "Thursday, 1st September. Fresh gales and cloudy; at 11 saw the landabout the Eddystone Point: Noon, fresh breezes and cloudy. "Friday, 2nd September. Fresh breezes and clear; all sail set. "Saturday, 3rd September. Fresh breezes and cloudy, at 2 handed the topsail and hove to, at 11 set the fore-sail: at 10 Oyster Island north bywest 7 or 8 miles. "Sunday, 4th September. Light breezes and cloudy: at 2 down boat: at 4got the sweeps out: carried one of them away. At 7 came to with the kedgein 29 fathoms, the tide setting us on an island: at 9, a breeze springingup, weighed and made all sail. "Monday, 5th September. Light breezes and cloudy: at 4 calm, out sweepsto pull ahead: at 8 a breeze, made all sail up Frederick Henry Bay, at6. 30 out long boat, up main keel. "Tuesday, 6th September. Ditto weather, at 1 hauled into the Bay: at 2. 30came to in Ralphes Bay in 8 fathoms. * (* Relph's Bay was named by CaptainJohn Hayes in honour of Captain Relph, Bombay Marine, commander of theDuchess. ) "Wednesday, 7th September. Moderate breezes and cloudy: sail-maker makinga main top-mast stay-sail. At 10 unmoored and made sail across the bay. "Thursday, 8th September. Ditto weather, came to in the bay in 8 fathoms1/2 past 3 breeze from the eastward, weighed and made sail up theDerwent: 6. 30 came to in 8 fathoms above Stainforth's Cove. "Friday, 9th September. Light breezes and cloudy weather: at 4 made sailfor Risdon Cove: at 3 came to in the cove in 4 fathoms. "Sunday, 11th September. At 8 came on board Captain Bowen from the Albionsent the longboat to assist in getting her into the Cove. "Monday, 12th September. Sent some of the stores belonging to the colonyon shore: the longboat assisting the Albion discharging. "Tuesday, 13th September. Moderate and cloudy weather. Employed landingstores. "Monday, 19th September. Struck lower yards and top-gallant mast. A. M. Fresh breezes and squally, landed bricks for the colony. "Tuesday, 20th September. Moderate breezes and cloudy. Supplied thecolony with 1/2 a barrel of Powder and a bell. "Thursday, 29th September. Getting ready for sea: 10. 30 in long boat. A. M. Fresh breezesand cloudy with rain: 1/2 past 5 weighed and made sail down the Harbour:out longboat to tow, at 7 made sail in boat. "Friday, 30th September. P. M. Strong gales with heavy squalls of rain:1/2 past 1 a heavy gale from south-east bore up for Ralphes Bay. "Saturday, 1st October. A. M. Pleasant weather: up lower yards, set therigging up, moored: at 7 weighed and made all sail down the river. "Sunday, 2nd October. Let go the kedge the vessel drifting on RisdonsIsland, shortened sail: 1/4 before 12 a breeze from the north-west upkedge. Made sail down River Derwent. "Tuesday, 11th October. P. M. Strong gales and clear weather: at 6 PigeonHouse west 10 or 12 miles. "Wednesday, 12th October. Strong gales and cloudy. At 10 saw a schoonerto windward. "Thursday, 13th October. Calm and cloudy: 1/4 before 8 strong gales withheavy squalls of rain. A. M. North Head 12 miles. "Friday, 14th October. Moderate and cloudy with heavy swell fromsouth-east: at 1 the Pilot came on board: 1/4 past 4 came to in the covewith best bower. "Saturday, 15th October. Light breezes and cloudy. Moored in PortJackson. . .. "Thursday, 27th October. At 5 slipped the mooring and made sail out ofthe cove: at 10 the South Head, Broken Bay north-north-west 12 miles. "Friday, 29th October. Saw a schooner to northward, at 5 hove to, spokeher, found her to be the Resource from Wreck Reef: at 10 came to inBroken Bay in 5 fathoms. Working up the river to Hawkesbury. "Tuesday, 1st November. Moderate and clear weather. At 2 came abreast theWash in 4 fathoms: moored. Down top-gallant yards, found the top-gallantyard sprung. "Wednesday, 2nd November. Fresh and squally with thunder, lightning andrain: came on board carpenter to build a bulkhead forward for the corn. "Friday, 4th November. Moderate and fair, at 4 furled sail. Hauledalongside wharf to take in the corn, received 710 bushels. "Monday, 7th November. Light breezes and clear. Received 210 bushels ofcorn. "Tuesday, 8th November. Light breezes and dark cloudy weather with heavyrain, thunder, and lightning. A. M. At 8 made ye signal for sailing with agun. At noon strong breezes. "Monday, 10th November. P. M. At 5 weighed and made sail: at 4 came towith the best bower in 3 fathoms. "Friday, 11th November. P. M. Light breezes and clear: at 11 weighed andtowed down the river. A. M. Calm and foggy: 1/2 past 3 came to inSackville Reach in 2 1/2 fathoms. "Saturday, 12th November. Calm and hot sultry weather, 1/2 past 12weighed and towed down the river. "Sunday, 13th November. At 1 weighed and towed down the river, at 4 cameto. A. M. Calm and cloudy weighed and made sail down the river. "Saturday, 19th November 1803. At 2 weighed and made sail down the river. Up top-gallant yards, at 7 came to in Pitt's Water. A. M. Light breezesand cloudy. At daylight weighed and made sail: at 4 calm and cloudy: cameto. "Sunday, 20th November. P. M. Calm. At 1 a breeze from the north-east. Weighed and made sail, at 2 all sail set, standing out of the Bay at 4ditto weather: at 9 came to in Sydney Cove: furled sails and took in themoorings. A. M. Strong breezes and cloudy, down top gallant yards. "Friday, 25th November. Employed receiving the wood and water. Deliveringthe iron and wine received for Norfolk Island and got ready to go to PortPhillip. "(Signed) GEORGE CURTOYS. " The log of George Curtoys ends on November 25th when he was taken ill andwent on shore to the Naval hospital at Sydney. We hear little of hissubsequent career, beyond that he retired from the Royal Navy and settleddown at the island of Timor, * (* The Sydney Gazette (1814) says that theship Morning Star, Captain Smart, brought the above news concerningCaptain Curtoys to Sydney. Captain Curtoys' brig had left Surabaja forTimor three months before Captain Smart's arrival at that port. ) becomingcommander of a brig, which occasionally traded with Surabaja. CHAPTER 9. SYMONS SUCCEEDS CURTOYS AS COMMANDER OF THE LADY NELSON. HIS VOYAGES TO PORT PHILLIP, TASMANIA, AND NEW ZEALAND. George Curtoys was succeeded in the command of the Lady Nelson by ActingLieutenant James Symons, who, like himself, had come to New South Walesas a midshipman in H. M. S. Glatton under Captain Colnett. Symonsafterwards served on board the Buffalo, and doubtless gained muchknowledge of the Australian coast while he was in that ship. She is wellknown on account of her many pioneering voyages, and it is also recordedthat her figure-head was the effigy of a kangaroo, and for this reason, on her first arrival in Sydney, she became an object of no littleinterest to the natives. Symons' appointment was somewhat hurriedly made, when, after Curtoys had been sent to sick quarters on shore, the shipOcean arrived from Port Phillip. Her commander, Captain Mertho, broughtimportant despatches to the Governor from Colonel Collins, who had beeninstructed by the British Government to form a settlement at that spot. The establishment had been conveyed from England in two ships, H. M. S. Calcutta, Captain Woodriff, and the Ocean, Captain Mertho. * (* The shipsleft England in April, 1803, and arrived at Port Phillip on the 7th and8th of October. ) Colonel Collins now reported that the site at PortPhillip, which he had originally chosen, was unsuitable, and asked King'spermission to move the whole settlement to Tasmania. * (* Collins settledat what is now Sorrento. It is curious that no proper examination of thenorthern shores of Port Phillip was carried out by Colonel Collins. Hadhe done so, he must have found the Yarra. ) His cousin, Mr. WilliamCollins, who had accompanied him to Port Phillip, "in a privatecapacity, " first volunteered to bring this despatch round to Sydney, andset forth in a six-oared boat. He was delayed by bad weather, and he andhis party of six convict sailors were overtaken and picked up by theOcean at Point Upright. Governor King complied with Colonel Collins's request, and in replying tohis letter acquainted him with the circumstances that had induced him tosend Bowen with settlers to Hobart. At the same time he left ColonelCollins to decide whether he would move his people to that place or toPort Dalrymple on the northern shores of Tasmania. The Governor also gaveorders for the Lady Nelson, then on the point of sailing to NorfolkIsland, to be cleared of her cargo and to be made ready to sail with theOcean back to Port Phillip. Two other ships--the colonial schoonerFrancis* (* This ship had been brought from England in frame in 1792, theEdwin was locally built, the property of Mr. Palmer, and commanded byCaptain Stuart. ) and the whaler Edwin--were also sent to render ColonelCollins all the assistance in their power. The Lady Nelson left Sydney on Monday, November 28th, 1803. Among thosewho sailed with Lieutenant Symons was the well-known botanist, Mr. RobertBrown, late of H. M. S. Investigator, who wished to examine theneighbourhood of Port Phillip and also to visit Port Dalrymple in searchof new plants. * (* Robert Brown, formerly an ensign in the FifeshireFencibles, was granted leave of absence to go with Captain Flinders inthe Investigator. ) The brig was singularly unfortunate in her passage toPort Phillip. So rough was the weather on arriving in Bass Strait, that"after beating a fortnight against a south-westerly wind, " she waseventually obliged to bear up for the Kent Group. * (* Robert Brown'sManuscript letters to Banks, describing the voyage, are preserved at theBritish Museum. ) Twice she left her anchorage there in order to try toreach her destination, and twice she had to return to port again. Meanwhile the Ocean, with Mr. William Collins and his sailors on board, arrived at Port Phillip on December 12th, and the Francis, bringingGovernor King's despatches, on the following day. On his way to Port Phillip, Mr. Rushworth, the Master of the Francis, inpassing Kent Group, had observed smoke rising from one of the islands, and being apprehensive for the safety of the Lady Nelson, he informedColonel Collins of this fact. Accordingly, when Mr. William Collinssailed in the Francis for Port Dalrymple on the 24th, and with a view toreporting upon its suitability for a settlement, the Master was directedto call at the Group and ascertain who was on shore there. This he did, and he found the Lady Nelson still in the cove where she had soughtrefuge. Mr. Brown, during his enforced stay there, had explored all theislands of the group in search of botanical specimens, but he tells Banksthat his collections were enriched by only "twelve new plants and nothingelse. " On her arrival the Francis was in a very leaky condition, so thatat the suggestion of Mr. Collins she was sent back to Sydney, and theparty appointed to survey Port Dalrymple was embarked in the Lady Nelson. Two days later Lieutenant Symons sailed to Port Dalrymple, which heentered on January 1st, 1804, and where he remained until the 18th. Asuccession of gales made it quite impossible to put to sea after thesurvey of the shores had been completed. While the brig lay at anchor, Mr. Collins explored the River Tamar as far as One Tree Reach, and Mr. Brown resumed his botanical researches; his letters show that he madeseveral excursions into the inland country in order to examine its flora, which, however, he found disappointing. He writes to Banks: "The wholenumber of plants observed in this port did not much exceed 300, of whichabout 40 were new to me and, I believe, nondescript. From Port Dalrymplewe had a short passage to Port Phillip. " On January 21st, Colonel Collins was highly pleased at ascertaining thesafety of the Lady Nelson, "of whose appearance, " he writes to King, "Ihad for some time despaired. " The account of Port Dalrymple, given by thesurveying party, was favourable, but Colonel Collins had already decidedthat he could not do better than repair, with his establishment, to theDerwent. He came to this decision on account of some of the military atPort Phillip "manifesting an improper spirit, " and he believed that ontheir joining the detachment of the New South Wales Corps at Hobart, thenunder Bowen, "a spirit of emulation would be excited and discontentchecked. "* (* See Historical Records of New South Wales volume 4, Collinsto King. ) On January 25th all the settlers ordered to embark in the Lady Nelsonwent on board, and on Monday, 30th, in company with the Ocean, conveyingColonel Collins, she made sail out of Port Phillip Bay. * (* SeeKnopwood's Diary, edited by J. Shillinglaw, Melbourne. The Reverend R. Knopwood was the Chaplain of Collins' establishment. ) After a passage often days, the brig anchored in Risdon Cove, the site of Bowen'ssettlement, the Ocean arriving a few days later. Colonel Collins did notthink Risdon the most eligible spot for the purpose of a settlement, andhe encamped "on the banks of a small but apparently constant stream, which empties itself into the second cove below Stainforth's Cove. "Collins named this place Sullivan's Cove, * (* After Mr. John Sullivan, Permanent Under Secretary for the Colonies. ) "the settlement at Risdonremaining in every respect as he found it until Governor King's pleasureis known. "* (* Brown's manuscript letter to Paterson. ) On Tuesday, March 6th, 1804, the Lady Nelson left the Derwent on herreturn voyage to Sydney. By that time all the Port Phillip settlers andhalf the establishment had arrived in Tasmania, and the Ocean was aboutto put to sea again in order to convey the stores and stock remaining atPort Phillip to Sullivan's Cove. Collins's settlement at this place, andthe original colony at Risdon, were then fast becoming united. A littlelater, Bowen's settlement was moved, by Governor King's orders, down theriver to Sullivan's Cove and the two establishments really became one, Colonel Collins retaining for it the name of Hobart, and Bowen with hisofficials returned to Sydney. * (* Sydney Gazette, August 26th, 1804. On Friday arrived the Ocean CaptainMertho, from the Derwent with Lieutenant Bowen, Commandant of thesettlement at Risdon Cove, which has become part of Lieutenant GovernorCollins' settlement, being only six miles from Sullivan's Cove. In thesame ship came Lieutenant Moore with a detachment of the New South WalesCorps on duty at Risdon, Mr. Jacob Mountgarrett, surgeon, Mr. Brown, naturalist, and several persons who composed the settlement. The Oceanarrived at Sullivan's Cove from her second voyage to Port Phillip on June25th after a tempestuous voyage of 32 days in which most of the stock forthe colony was lost. Lieutenant Bowen was on his way from Sydney to the Derwent at the time ofCollins' arrival in Tasmania. He seems only to have voyaged as far asPort Dalrymple in the Integrity for he returned to the Derwent in thePilgrim (Sydney Gazette, April 22nd, 1804). Eventually he came, as statedabove, to Sydney in the Ocean. (See Historical Records of New South Walesvolume 5 pages 451 and 676. ) The Lady Nelson reached Sydney on the 14th of March after a passage ofeight days, and no sooner had she anchored in the harbour than GovernorKing instructed her commander to refit and prepare to embark yet anothercolony of settlers. These he proposed to send to Newcastle. * (* OrKingstown, as it was then called, in honour of Governor King; shortlyafterwards he renamed it Newcastle. ) Hitherto only some colliers and aguard had been stationed there, in order to ensure a supply of coals forSydney and for the Government ships, but now the Governor directed thatthe spot should be raised to the dignity of a settlement. The colonialcutter Resource, and the James sloop, belonging to Mr. Raby, were orderedto sail with the Lady Nelson. The three vessels got under weigh to sailto Newcastle on Tuesday, March 27th, having on board all the personsappointed by the Governor, to proceed there. Embarked in the Lady Nelsonwere:-- Lieutenant Menzies, Commandant. Mr. Mileham, Surgeon. Mr. F. Bauer, natural history painter. Mr. John Tucker, storekeeper. One overseer, two carpenters, three sawyers, a gardener, a salt bailerand sixteen prisoners. In the Resource were one sergeant and four privates of the New SouthWales Corps:-- Mr. Knight, superintendent. Twelve convicts. In the James:-- Mr. George Caley and three miners with implements, and stores andprovisions for six months. In consequence of a north-east wind, the ships were not able to leaveSydney harbour on that evening, but were obliged to anchor in Lookout Bayuntil the following morning, when they again weighed and in a short timecleared the Heads. They arrived at Newcastle safely on the day aftertheir departure, and disembarked the little colony. All three vesselswere then loaded with coals and cedar for Sydney, the Lady Nelsonreceiving on board "twenty-six fine logs of rich cedar. " The homewardvoyage was unfortunate, as the James was lost off Broken Bay. LeavingNewcastle in a very leaky condition, and encountering a gale, the watergradually gained fast upon her and stopped her progress. Two daysafterwards the pumps became choked, and the five men who composed hercrew had to bale with buckets. Eventually they stood on to a sandy beachwhere their vessel, being nearly full of water, was dashed to pieces bythe tremendous surf. The crew were picked up on the north head of BrokenBay by the Resource and brought to Sydney. * (* For this portion of theLady Nelson's story no log has been available. The material has beenderived principally from the columns of Sydney newspapers. ) The voyage of the Lady Nelson to Norfolk Island in April and May, 1804, was one of the most tempestuous the brig ever experienced. She sailedwith the Francis on April 30th, but the two ships soon parted company. Their cargo consisted of stores and a quantity of salt staves and hoopsfor the purpose of curing pork, a supply of which was greatly needed forthe colony. For eighteen days continuous gales buffeted the ship anddrove her so far northward that she could not make her port ofdestination. Besides bad weather, she had to contend with furthermisfortunes, for three casks of water in the hold--part of the supply forthe voyage--were found to have leaked entirely away, and the allowance offuel ran so short that her Commander was forced to cut up one of the topmasts for firewood. Situated thus, Lieutenant Symons decided to bear away for New Zealand andto return later to Norfolk Island, when it was hoped the weather wouldhave moderated sufficiently to enable him to land his passengers. On the3rd of June he made Three Kings Island, and two days afterwards NorthCape. He then steered alongside as far as Cape Brett in the Bay ofIslands. On coming to an anchorage in a small bay on the north-west sideof the River Thames, nearly two hundred natives surrounded the brig andwere welcomed on board. They brought with them potatoes, and othervegetables, as well as mats and native curios to barter for nails, buttons, etc. At sunset they left the vessel. On the following morningthe Commander went on shore and the natives following him quickly foundhim a watering place. On being offered a pig by one of the Maoris inexchange for a new razor, he accepted it, but a chief afterwardsrequested him to return the animal (as it had been a present from CaptainRhodes)* (* Captain Rhodes of the Alexander South Sea Whaler, traded withNew Zealand. ) and it was immediately given back to its former owner. Nextmorning the New Zealanders flocked on board in such numbers thatLieutenant Symons decided to quit the bay. On the 9th a strong breeze necessitated anchoring in Cavalli Bay* (* Sonamed by Cook. ) where the natives were no less friendly and came to tradewith the crew. On the 12th a strong gale and heavy sea drove the LadyNelson four lengths towards the shore. Her commander was forced to cutthe cable after beating for two hours, weathered the land and bore up torun between Cavalli Island and the mainland. Eventually the Lady Nelsonarrived at Norfolk Island on June 22nd, when it was found possible toland the officers of the New South Wales Corps and to embark others fromthe same regiment for Sydney, among them being Ensigns Piper andAnderson. The brig sailed on the 29th, and in passing the entrance ofHunter's River, on the evening of July 8th, she sent a boat off to thesettlement at Newcastle, where it was reported that all was well. Shearrived in Port Jackson on July 9th. She was then overhauled, and onSeptember 8th sailed for the Hawkesbury in order to fetch a cargo ofwheat for Sydney. LOG OF THE LADY NELSON. J. SYMONS, Acting Lieutenant and Commander, Port Jackson, New South Wales. Sydney to Norfolk Island. "Monday, 30th April 1804. P. M. Left the Heads. Winds variable. At 4 NorthHead of Port Jackson 4 leagues. At 8 the Francis in sight. At 1 A. M. Light breezes and clear. At noon the Francis in company. "Tuesday, 1st May. In company with the Francis at 5 lost sight of theFrancis. "Friday, 4th May. Fine clear weather: at 5 A. M. Saw How's Islands uponthe weather bow bearing north-north-east distant 5 leagues, Ball'sPyramid bearing north-east 1/2 F. Distant 6 leagues. At noon abreast ofHow's Island east: distant 3 leagues. "Saturday, 5th May. Tacked ship and stood in for How's Island. "Sunday, 6th May. P. M. Hard squalls of rain. How's Island west by north 7leagues. "Monday, 7th May. P. M. Still blowing hard: at 6 took in thefore-top-sail: at 4 split the main-sail and fore-top-mast stay-sail. At 9fine pleasant weather: employed about a new main-sail and bending afore-top-mast stay-sail. "Tuesday, 8th May. P. M. Fresh breezes and fine clear weather: at 4 bentnew main-sail: at 10 bore away for New Zealand. Have but 2 casks on boardand no wood. "Tuesday, 29th May P. M. Cloudy weather with squalls. "Wednesday, 30th May. Small breezes and fine weather. At 8 A. M. Tackedship: at 9 split the fore-top-gallant-sail and carried away themain-top-gallant-yard. "Thursday, 31st May. Moderate winds and cloudy weather. At 7 set up themain-top-gallant yard and set the sail: at 4 A. M. Set the lower andfore-top-mast studding sail. At 8 carried away the fore keel pendant andlost the keel, at 10 took in the studding sail. "Friday, 1st June. Small breezes. At 3 calm, light breezes and fineweather. "Saturday, 2nd June. Cloudy with squalls of wind and rain. At 5 took inthe main-top-gallant-sail. "Sunday, 3rd June. P. M. Fresh gales with squalls and bad sea fromeast-south-east. At 2 saw the Three Kings being south-west by west 3leagues. "Monday, 4th June. P. M. Bore away to leeward of the Three Kings and insearch of wood and water, sent boat ashore, lost 4 oars overboard. At 7P. M. The boat came on board with wood. "Tuesday, 5th June. At 1 made sail close under shore of New Zealand. "Wednesday, 6th June. Land distant 2 leagues: came to anchor in bay onthe east side of New Zealand: went ashore, got some wood and water: at 6A. M. Went on shore again and got some water: at 9 A. M. Got under weighand bore away for the River Thames. "Thursday, 7th June. P. M. At 6 came to anchor in a small bay to thenorthward of River Thames. At 7 went on shore, found it a bad landing:could not get water: got some wood. At 9 got under weigh and stood roundfor the mouth of the River Thames. "Friday, 8th June. P. M. At 3 came to anchor on the north-west side ofRiver Thames with the bower anchor in 11 fathoms water and sent boatashore for wood and water. At 11 weighed anchor and made sail out of theriver on account of the natives being so numerous on board. "Saturday, 9th June. Cloudy weather: all sail set standing along thecoast. At 12 A. M. Cavill's Island bearing north-west distant 10 miles. Atdaylight made all sail into the bay bearing west: tacked occasionally: at11 shortened sail and came to in 10 fathoms of water with best boweranchor. "Sunday, 10th June. Moderate breezes: at 2 sent boat ashore: at 6returned with wood and water. "Monday, 11th June. Got some wood and water: at 10 windnorth-north-west--hard squalls of wind and rain. "Tuesday, 12th June. At 6 the boat came on board with wood and an accountthat James Cavanagh a prisoner who was sent to cut wood had run into theBrush and that a party of men had been in pursuit of him and could notfind him and he was left behind: at 1/4 past 9 a heavy squall: gave thevessel more cable: found her driving in shore very fast: the galecontinuing and a heavy sea. Set the top-sail, main-sail and fore-top-staysail and cut the cable, not being able to get anchor on account of vesseldriving so fast: the anchor was lost, 120 fathoms of cable. 1/4 before 10tacked ship, 10 past 10 began to run between Cavill's Island andmainland, not being able to work out of the bay, up keel and fore-saildown jib and main-sail. At 11 being quite clear of land shortened sailand hove to. "Wednesday, 13th June. P. M. At 9 more moderate. Latitude by observation33 degrees 8 minutes. "Thursday, 14th June. P. M. Fine clear weather: at 8 took one reef in themain-top-sail and set the stay-sail. "Friday, 15th June. P. M. Light airs, clear weather: set the fore and maincourses: at 9 fresh breezes: took in top-gallant sails: at 10 strongbreezes and squally: at 12 A. M. Tacked ship and close reefed top-sail, furled the jib and main-sail and sent down top-gallant yards. "Saturday, 16th June. P. M. Fresh breezes and clear: at 1 gotmain-top-gallant yard up and set the sail. "Sunday, 17th June. Light airs from northward. Set the square main-sail:at 12 tacked ship. "Monday, 18th June. P. M. Light wind and clear weather: at 8 wore ship. "Tuesday, 19th June. P. M. At 12 saw Norfolk Island bearing south 1/2 eastdistant 7 leagues. "Wednesday, 20th June. P. M. At 5 Norfolk island distant 6 leagues. At 8Norfolk island distant 4 leagues. "Thursday, 21st June. P. M. At 4 Norfolk Island distant 5 leagues: atsunset Norfolk Island distant 5 leagues: at 8 Norfolk Island S. E. E. 3leagues: at 9 fired 3 guns as signal for a boat. "Friday, 22nd June. P. M. A boat from Cascade boarded us and took on boardthe officers of New South Wales Corps and baggage and left a pilot onboard: at 10 A. M. A boat came and took on shore more baggage belonging toofficers of New South Wales Corps. "Saturday, 23rd June. P. M. Stretched off land to get round to Sydney(Norfolk Island) but the wind and weather not permitting stretched offand on all night: at 6 close in with the land: at 8 A. M. Tacked ship andstood off from the land: at 10 A. M. Lowered the boat and sent her withsecond mate and four men on shore. "Sunday, 24th June. P. M. Stretching off and on the land to the windward. At 8 A. M. A boat arrived from the shore with a cask of pork and biscuits, the 2nd mate and 2 men brought the account that the boat was lost andthat 1 man George Cockswain was drowned. At 10 loaded the boat withsundries for the shore but not being able to make good her landingreturned to the ship. We stood off for Governor King's island with theboat towing astern. "Monday, 25th June. P. M. Fresh breezes. At 4 P. M. Stretched under Nepeanisland and left the boat waiting to land at Sydney if the swell abated:stretched off with ship to windward between 2 islands to keep her ground:at 10 A. M. Got under Nepean Island and boat came on board with waterwhich was loaded with iron and sent ashore. "Tuesday, 26th June. P. M. At 2 loaded the boat with flour and sent her onshore: at 8 A. M. Towed in for Nepean Island and the boat came on board. "Wednesday, 27th June. P. M. Employed landing goods and getting water: at8 A. M. Got under the land and fired a gun: at 9 A. M. The boat came onboard with baggage for officers of New South Wales Corps for PortJackson. "Thursday, 28th June. P. M. Received orders and passengers on board: madesail for Port Jackson. "Wednesday, 4th July. P. M. Light breezes and clear weather. Punished J. Druce with 24 lashes for theft. * (* Druce subsequently deserted. ) Soldclothes and bedding of George Cockswain. "Thursday, 5th July. P. M. Light airs and clear weather. Exercised gunsand small arms. "Friday, 6th July. P. M. North-north-east. Light winds and cloudy: smallbreezes with some rain and from then until noon calm with some rain. "Saturday, 7th July. P. M. Strong breezes: at 6 A. M. Saw the land, PortStephens bearing north by east 5 leagues: at 11 A. M. Off the Coal River, fired 2 guns, hoisted out boat and sent her on shore. Light winds andcloudy weather. "Sunday, 8th July. P. M. Small breezes: at 2 tacked ship: at 6 the boatcame on board: hoisted her in and made sail for Port Jackson. At 12 A. M. Light winds: at 7 made the North Head of Port Jackson: at 12 came to withthe kedge between the Heads. "Monday, 9th July. P. M. At 3 got under weigh and at 6 arrived in SydneyCove, hauled alongside the Supply and made fast. The officers of NewSouth Wales Corps went on shore. At 8 A. M. Cast off from the Supply andanchored off the dockyard with the Bower, sent passengers on shore. "Tuesday, 10th July. P. M. Small breezes and showery. Employed clearingdecks and putting things to rights and sending things on shore belongingto the officers of the New South Wales Corps. "Wednesday, July 11th. Overhauling ship at the dockyard and refitting, etc. Until September 7th. Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury River. "Friday, September 7th. P. M. Employed getting on board water and gettingready for sea. "Saturday, September 8th. At 12 A. M. Got clear of the Heads. "Sunday, 9th September. At 4 stood in between the Heads and came to offCamp Cove: at 8 A. M. Got under weigh for the Hawkesbury. "Monday, 10th September. P. M. Came to between South Head of Broken Bayand Ballinjoy*: (* Barrenjoey. ) at 12 came to off Mount Elliott. At noonunder weigh. "Tuesday, 11th September. P. M. Came to off Britannia's beach at 2: at 5came to with the kedge in Barr's Reach--at 10 under weigh. "Wednesday, 12th September. P. M. Came to at 3 in Freshwater Bay: at 9winds more moderate: Got under weigh and towed ship up river to SevenReaches: at 10 A. M. Got under weigh. "Sunday, 16th September. P. M. Came to anchor off the Greenhills. "Monday, 17th September. P. M. Fine pleasant weather. Got out flour andbricks: 3 carpenters came on board to work. "Tuesday, 18th September. P. M. At 8 hard gusts wind with rain: at A. M. More moderate. "Wednesday, 19th September. P. M. At 9 got under weigh for CornwallisFarm. At 1 came to anchor: at 8 A. M. Hauled in shore and got outremainder of flour and cleaned hold to receive wheat. "Thursday, 20th September. P. M. Received wheat and dropped down river: at9 came to anchor: at 6 weighed: at 7 ran aground. "Friday, 21st September. P. M. At 2 got off and towed down river: at 5moored off Greenhills: at 7 A. M. Received wheat on board. Greenhills to Sydney Cove. "Saturday, 22nd September. P. M. Moderate breezes. Fired a Royal Salute incommemoration of the King's Coronation: received remainder of wheat: at 5A. M. Unmoored and went down the River. "Monday, 24th September. P. M. Small breezes and moderate: half-past 3 gotunder weigh: at 10 came to with the kedge in Pugh's Reach: at 5 A. M. Gotunder way: at 11 A. M. Came to in Sackville's Reach. "Tuesday, 25th September. P. M. Small breezes: at 4 endeavoured to weighanchor: parted hawser: lost kedge and 116 fathoms of it: proceeded downthe River. At 11 came to anchor: at 5 under weigh: at 12 we came toanchor in reach above Sentry Box and went up a creek in a boat 5 miles. Discovered at the head of the creek a fine spring of water; brought onboard a Gigantic Lily of a species unknown. "Wednesday, 26th September. P. M. Fresh breezes: at 4 got under weigh; at11 came to anchor above the Bar: at 5 A. M. Weighed; at 8 passed Mullett'sIsland: at 10 spoke a sloop of Ballinjoy bound for Hawkesbury: at 11cleared the Head of Broken Bay and stood off for Port Jackson. "Thursday 27th September. P. M. Fresh breezes: at 2 made Heads of PortJackson and proceeded up the Harbour: at 3 P. M. Came to anchor in SydneyCove: at 6 A. M. Hauled into the wharf: at 9 discharged cargo. " [Facsimile signature James Symons] Commander. CHAPTER 10. THE LADY NELSON IN TASMANIA. THE FOUNDING OF PORT DALRYMPLE. The beginnings of Hobart and Launceston are singularly alike. The firstattempt of the newly appointed Commandant of Port Dalrymple to reach thesite of his intended settlement in the colonial cutter Integrity, having"ended in failure owing to adverse winds, " Lieutenant-Governor Patersonleft Sydney on October 15th, 1804, in H. M. S. Buffalo. The Lady Nelsonwent with her as tender, as the Navy Board had notified Governor Kingthat their Lordships wished the brig to accompany the Buffalo while onsurvey, and for this reason 15 supernumerary seamen were allowed to theflagship in order to provide a crew for the Lady Nelson. * (* Inconsequence of this order the Lady Nelson, after October 16th, wasdischarged from the list of colonial vessels. ) The colonial schoonersIntegrity and Francis also received orders to sail with Captain Kent toPort Dalrymple. On Sunday morning, the 14th, Lieutenant-Governor Paterson went on boardthe Buffalo with Ensign Piper and Mr. Mountgarrett under a salute of 11guns from the Fort, which was returned. Forty-six officers and men of theNew South Wales Corps had previously been embarked and twenty prisoners, while the Lady Nelson also carried troops and settlers to the settlement. That evening the fleet came to at the entrance of the harbour, beingunable to clear the Heads until the following morning. Outside a high seawas running, and as the ships voyaged southwards the bad weatherincreased. It is recorded that on the night of the 20th a heavy galealmost "blew the ships back to Port Jackson. " A few hours before thisgale commenced the Francis had parted company with the Buffalo, but theLady Nelson and the Integrity remained with the king's ship until the endof the storm, when both vessels lost sight of her. The Lady Nelson, having split her fore-and-aft mainsail, bore up for Twofold Bay to refit. On the 21st she again put to sea only to meet with another storm of stillgreater violence, which stove in her bulwarks, washed overboard herboats, compasses, and many articles belonging to the Government. The shipconsequently returned once more to Twofold Bay to effect repairs. In lieuof a boat, a raft was rigged up to carry the men on shore to obtainwater, and at the same time the carpenter was sent to cut spars from"Ruff trees. " On November 3rd, after having made a fruitless attempt toface the gale, she weighed and sailed out of the bay. At the entrance shemet the George, schooner, from Sydney bound to the Derwent, and wassupplied by the master with a boat's compass and other much-neededarticles. Bad weather continuing until Flinders' Island was sighted, Symons decided to beat up through the narrows into Kent's Bay, where hefound the Francis also seeking shelter. On the 13th the two vessels leftKent's Bay in company to try and reach their port of destination, but asthe storm had not yet abated they bore away for Waterhouse Island andtook refuge there. Finally, on November 21st, the two little ships withtorn sails and splintered masts arrived at Port Dalrymple, both in athoroughly disabled condition, but those on board, in coming into theharbour, saw with satisfaction the British colours flying on shore, andthe Buffalo and the Integrity lying safely at anchor. Lieutenant Symons learned that the Buffalo had arrived alone on theevening of November 3rd and had moored four miles within the port. Nextday she dragged her anchors, and in spite of every exertion, touched, fortunately, upon a flat rock. By a spirited effort on the part of thecrew she was floated undamaged, her anchor was slipped, and she was takenthree miles higher up the harbour. On the 4th the Integrity arrived, andon the 10th possession was taken of the country on behalf of GreatBritain with the usual formalities. * (* Captain Flinders had alreadytaken possession of this port and Governor Hunter had named it afterAlexander Dalrymple. ) The Lieutenant-Governor was saluted with 11 guns bythe flagship as he landed, and a Royal Salute was fired when the UnionJack was hoisted. On the 13th the general disembarkation took place fromthe Buffalo and Integrity at a spot called Outer Cove, whereLieutenant-Governor Paterson had fixed his camp. Its surroundings weredelightful, the harbour extending inland for many miles withoutinterruption. A party of Tasmanian natives on the 14th were encounteredby some of the colonists in the bush. At the sight of the white men theygave a furious shout and 200 of their number followed the British back totheir camp. Here overtures were made, and they grew somewhat moreconciliatory. But Paterson's friendly endeavours were now and theninterrupted "by an indignant clamour which, beginning with a singleindividual, ran rapidly through their lines accompanied by excitedgesticulations, " the natives "biting their arms as a token either ofvengeance or defiance. * (* Letter describing the founding of the PortDalrymple settlement. Sydney Gazette December 23rd, 1804. ) The blackswithdrew peaceably, but were positive in forbidding us to follow them. " On November 22nd the officers, soldiers, and prisoners were sent on shorefrom the Lady Nelson, and on the following day the baggage as well as thebricks brought from Sydney to build the houses of the settlers. OnNovember 29th the Buffalo and the Integrity left Port Dalrymple. TheLieutenant-Governor, Ensign Piper and Mr. Jacob Mountgarrett then went onboard the Lady Nelson and proceeded to examine the harbour and the upperreaches of the river. On this expedition Colonel Paterson occasionallywent on shore, sometimes taking Lieutenant Symons with him, andpenetrated some distance into the surrounding country. Several placeswere named, and land suitable for cultivation was seen. The pasturage wasvery luxuriant. Fresh water too was found in sufficient abundance and, added to these natural advantages, good stone and timber were plentiful, the latter growing on the high ground. In surveying the country theLieutenant-Governor found a more suitable site for a settlement "at thehead of the Western Arm" between two "runs " of fresh water which werenamed by him Kent's Burn* (* Discovered by Captain Kent. ) and M'Millan'sBurn. * (* Called after Mr. M'Millan, Surgeon of the Buffalo. ) He decidedto move the people to this spot without delay, --giving the place the nameof Yorktown. * (* Yorktown settlement soon gave place to Georgetown, andin 1806 the settlers were moved to the spot where Launceston now stands. )The main river he called the Tamar, two other streams the North Esk andthe South Esk, a neighbouring mountain, Mount Albany, and the hills tothe westward, the Rothesay Hills. * (* Sydney Gazette, January 6th and25th, 1805. ) On the return of the expedition to Outer Cove the bricks and otherarticles which had been left at the camp there, were removed to theWestern Arm. The mud flats proved rather an obstacle in the way of thevessels' progress, and we read that more than once the Lady Nelson ranashore during the undertaking; however, eventually the passengers, bricksand baggage were safely landed. On December 29th the Francis sailed for Port Jackson, but the Lady Nelsonwas detained by the Lieutenant-Governor until January 11th in order thatLieutenant Symons might assist in carrying out further surveys, and alsoto erect beacons in the harbour to facilitate the safe entry of shipsinto port. The important work carried out by the Lady Nelson at Port Dalrymple willbe found recorded in the log of her Commander, which is as follows:-- THE LOG OF THE LADY NELSON. AT ANCHOR IN SYDNEY COVE. JAS. SYMONS Lieutenant and Commander. "Tuesday, 2nd October 1804. P. M. Got on board 2 cables, 1 hawser, 1anchor, 1 grapnel and provisions for 6 months. Received order fromGovernor King to act as Lieutenant and Commander. * (* The Governor hadthen received an Admiralty order to make the appointment. ) . .. Sydney to Port Dalrymple. "Sunday, 14th October. At 5 A. M. Got under way: at 8 fresh breezes: cameto with the small bower in company with the Buffalo, Francis andIntegrity. "Monday, 15th October. At 6 A. M. Got under way: made sail occasionally towork out of Harbour. "Tuesday, 16th October. At 6 A. M. Squally with heavy rain. Cape Dromedarybearing south-south-west: ships all in sight. "Wednesday, 17th October. P. M. Fresh breezes and cloudy: land in sight. Lay by for the Francis. "Thursday, 18th October. Squadron in company: set main top-gallant sail:saw the land off Ramhead distant 12 leagues. "Friday, 19th October. P. M. Split fore-and-aft main-sail at 7. .. Hove to. At 11 lost sight of the Buffalo--at 8 made sail and bore away for TwofoldBay. At noon strong breezes: Cape Howe distant 4 miles. "Saturday, 20th October. P. M. Past Green Cape--at 5 came to with thesmall bower on the east side of Twofold Bay: got under way and stood outof Bay. At noon off the Isles. "Sunday, 21st October. P. M. At 6 Cape Howe 5 leagues. At 3/4 past 10 A. M. Perceived a heavy gale coming on westward, up courses: shortened sail. At11 strong gales with thunder and lightning and rain: hove to underbalance: reefed main-sail. "Monday, 22nd October. Strong gales with a heavy sea from south-west--athalf-past 8 shipped a very heavy sea on the starboard quarter, stove inthe bulwark on the quarter gangway. At 3 A. M. Shipped another heavy seawhich washed overboard the boat, a chest of carpenter's tools, onefore-top-sail, one top-mast studding-sail, 1 tackle, 3 oars, 1 boat-hook, 2 brass guns, one cask of rice, 3 chests belonging to passengers andseveral things belonging to Mr. Piper and 4 sows, the property ofGovernment, and washed overboard the binnacle, 2 compasses and lamps. Athalf-past 3 carried away main sheet and broke the tiller, down main-sail:bore up and set the fore-sail not being able to keep the sea found thelarboard side of the waist covering board split and leaking a good deal. At 8 heavy gales with squalls and a heavy sea: found the breakers in thehold had raised the water casks and everything in the ship was moved. Onecask of rice in the spirit room above, and rice totally lost. "Tuesday, 23rd October. P. M. Strong gales with a heavy sea. At 2 P. M. Close reefed top-sail. .. Carpenter and people employed stopping leak. .. Atnoon hoisted up fore keel and found it broken off. "Wednesday, 24th October. At 8 A. M. Bore up for Twofold Bay. "Thursday, 25th October. Opened the Bay, hauled our wind and setmain-sail to work up into the Bay. At half-past 6 came to in 5 fathoms onthe South shore with small bower anchor. A. M. At 6 rigged a raft to go onshore: at 9 sent casks on shore for water: sent carpenter to cut sparsfrom Ruff trees: at 10 raft returned with water and at half-past set offagain and in going ashore Charles Abercrombie fell overboard and wasdrowned. "Friday, 26th October. Fresh breezes: carpenter employed fixing Rufftrees. . .. "Thursday, 1st November. Broke up the raft and got under weigh to workout of Harbour. "Friday, 2nd November. P. M. All sail set standing to South. At 2 squallywith rain: bore up for Twofold Bay. .. At 6 came to with small bower in 12fathoms in Twofold Bay. "Saturday, 3rd November. P. M. Perceived at 2 a sail to south-east: foundher to be the George, Schooner, of Sydney bound to the Derwent: got fromher a boat's compass and sundry articles: made all sail out of the Bay, the George in company, at 12 Haycock Rock West 3 miles: the George insight. "Sunday, 4th November. Fresh breezes and hazy. At noon Cape How distant 4leagues. "Monday, 5th November. P. M. Slight breezes, all sail set: at 8 squally:the main top-sail blown out of the bolt rope and was lost. "Tuesday, 6th November. P. M. At 4 took in all sail. "Wednesday, 7th November. P. M. Strong gales and bad sea. At 8 blew thefore stay-sail totally away and split the main stay-sail. "Thursday, 8th November. P. M. At 9 saw Flinders' Isle bearing south-westby south 15 leagues. At noon distant 9 leagues. "Thursday, 9th November. P. M. At 6 A. M. Saw the land: at 8 clear weather, made Cape Barren and beat in through the narrows: at 12 under sailbeating up to Kent's Bay. "Saturday, 10th November. Came to in Kent's Bay with small bower anchoralongside the Francis, schooner. "Sunday, 11th November. At 3 sent women and soldiers on shore. Mary Poordied suddenly: carpenter made coffin: at 12 went on shore and interredbody with funeral solemnities. "Monday, 12th November. P. M. Sent carpenter to put bilge pieces on boat'sbottom. "Tuesday, 13th November. P. M. Strong gales: at 3 light breezes: hove upbest bower and got all clear for getting under weigh in company withFrancis: at 8 made Hunter's Island. "Wednesday, 14th November. P. M. Fresh breezes and fine: at 2 bore awayfor Waterhouse Island: at 4 came to anchor in 4 fathoms. . .. The Lady Nelson to Port Dalrymple. "Tuesday, 20th November, 1804. A. M. Close in with northernmost ofWaterhouse's Islands: 12 Waterhouse's Island 3 miles. Francis in company. "Wednesday, 21st November. P. M. Small breezes, at 3 past the island ofrocks: at 6 saw the colours flying at Port Dalrymple: fired a gun for theFrancis to bear down: at 8 came to anchor in the River in 27 fathoms ofwater: at 9 A. M. Weighed anchor and ran up into the Bay and came toanchor in company with the Buffalo, Francis, and Integrity. "Thursday, 22nd November. Sent officers, soldiers, prisoners and baggageon shore. "Friday, 23rd November. P. M. Employed landing bricks and baggage, etc. Clearing ship. . .. "Wednesday, 28th November. People on board the Buffalo endeavouring towork out of Harbour. "Thursday, 29th November. Boats returned from Buffalo, brought to lineand kedge P. M. , and got small bower anchor and cable: theLieutenant-Governor came on board from Buffalo: Ensign Piper, Mr. Mountgarrett; five soldiers and 5 boat's crew. At 5 weighed and proceededup the River: at 10 came to. * (* Off Middle Island. ) At 6 A. M. Got underway, at 11 let go in 20 fathoms: Lieutenant-Governor went on shore. "Friday, 30th November. P. M. At 2 boat returned with Lieutenant-Governorand Company: at 3 beat up the River: at 9 came to with a bower and sentboat on shore with Lieutenant-Governor and Company. "Saturday, 1st December. P. M. At 2 Lieutenant-Governor returned, at 3 gotunder way, at 11 ran aground and sent out kedge to get off ship. Lieutenant-Governor went on shore. At 12 A. M. We got the vessel afloat, came to with kedge in 2 fathoms. "Sunday, 2nd December. P. M. Lieutenant Governor came on board. At 10 P. M. Got under way: at 7 came to anchor about quarter of a mile below theCataract River and moored head and stern in 2 fathoms. At 8 A. M. Sent offboats with Lieutenant-Governor and Company to survey the River, Land, *etc. (* Paterson began his survey at one Tree Reach where Collins'ssurvey had ended. ) "Monday, 3rd December. P. M. Light airs, making ready to set up rigging. "Tuesday, 4th December. Employed as before. "Wednesday, 5th December. At 2 P. M. Boats arrived withLieutenant-Governor from surveying the River to the southwards* (* TheSouth Esk. ) and country, at 6 A. M. Got under way and proceeded down theRiver--at 11 came to in the third Reach below the Cataract Falls. "Thursday, 6th December. Boats went on shore with Lieutenant-Governor at3, returned, at 4 got under way, at 6 ran on shore on a mud flat, at 11got afloat at 6 A. M. Boats went on shore with Lieutenant-Governor, at 11returned, at noon got under way. "Friday, 7th December. At 5 ran on a mud flat: at 12 P. M. Got afloat; at1 came to anchor in Channel--at 5 A. M. Got under way and proceeded downthe River. "Saturday, 8th December. P. M. At 5 got under way: at 8 came to: at 6 A. M. Got under way: at 9 came to, and sent Lieutenant-Governor on shore. "Sunday, 9th December. Two boats returned with Lieutenant-Governor, at 5got under way: at 8 ran on shore on a reef of rocks, carried out kedgeand got off: at 10 came to anchor in Snug Cove: at 5 A. M. Boats went onshore with Lieutenant-Governor: at 7 returned and took in seine. Currenthove ship on shore. At 10 carried out kedge and warped out of Cove. "Monday, 10th December. P. M. At 1 boat returned with Lieutenant-Governor:at 7 ran on shore on a mud flat in the mouth of the west arm, at 2 A. M. Hove off and rode by kedge: at 5 under way and proceeded up the west arm:at 10 sent Lieutenant-Governor on shore. "Tuesday, 11th December. P. M. At 2 boats returned withLieutenant-Governor: at 3 left ship and went to camp in Governor'swherry. "Wednesday, 12th December. At 5 light airs and fine, got up anchor andmade sail. At 10 came to abreast Storehouse Island. At 6 A. M. Weighed andtowed ship for Harbour: at 7 warped into Harbour. "Thursday, 13th December. At 5 Lieutenant-Governor came alongside and theCaptain accompanied him surveying River. . .. "Tuesday, 18th December. People taking in bricks, etc. , for Western Arm. "Wednesday, 19th December. At 2 ran on shore on a mud flat in the WesternArm, landed passengers, bricks and baggage: at 11 got ship afloat andcame to: at 4 A. M. Towed down the River. "Thursday, 20th December. Proceeding up the River for ballast: at 11 cameto in a bay in 4 fathoms water. "Friday, 21st December. P. M. At 2 all hands getting ballast on board, took ground on mud flat: at 5 proceeded down River: at 8 came to abreastStorehouse Island in 18 fathoms. "Saturday, 22nd December. At 5 under way and came to at 9 in 12 fathomswater. "Sunday, 23rd December. P. M. Weighed and got into a cove abreast theSettlements in company with the Francis, schooner, at 8. . .. "Saturday, 29th December. At 10 A. M. The Francis sailed for Port Jackson. "Sunday, 30th December. A. M. Got ballast on board to put into the River. "Monday, 31st December. P. M. Carpenter employed making Beacon to put onShag Rock. "Tuesday, 1st January 1805. P. M. Light breezes. .. Carpenter as before. "Wednesday, 2nd January. P. M. Fresh breezes: setting up the rigging. "Thursday, 3rd January. A. M. At 7 laid down Beacon on Shag Rock. "Friday, 4th January. P. M. Carpenter making chocks for boat. "Saturday, 5th January. P. M. Light breezes and cloudy. A. M. Getting waterand wood on board. "Sunday, 6th January. At 9 cloudy with thunder. "Monday, 7th January. Light breezes. All hands away in boats on survey. "Tuesday, 8th January. P. M. Fresh breezes. At A. M. Hauled the seine, carpenter making oars. "Wednesday, 9th January. P. M. People making booms and getting water. A. M. Got on board a spar for sprit-sail yard: carpenter making new one. "Thursday, 10th January. P. M. Thunder and lightning and rain: received onboard dispatches. A. M. Light breezes getting ready for sea, tried to warpout of cove, Government boat and crew assisting. Port Dalrymple to Sydney. "Friday, 11th January. P. M. Strong gales. A. M. Moderate: at 5 unmooredship and worked out of the Cove: at 6 came to abreast the Green Island:at 9 worked out of Harbour, Government boat assisting: at 10 made allsail: at noon the Seal Rocks bore south distant 5 miles: all sail set forCape Barren not being able to weather the Sisters. "Saturday, 12th January. P. M. A fresh gale at 1: at 5 Waterhouse Islandbore south 3 leagues, wind dying away came to in Kent's Bay, Cape Barren. A. M. At 6 under way: at 9 got out of the Harbour. At noon Cape Barrenbearing west, distant 2 leagues. "Sunday, 13th January. Furneaux Island south-south-west 7 leagues, at 8Cape Barren bore south-south-west 6 leagues. "Monday, 14th January. P. M. Lost sight of land at 6. At 6 A. M. Saw theland again. At 9 Port Hicks distant 3 leagues. "Tuesday, 15th January. P. M. At 4 wore ship and stood off the land: atnoon we found we had lost nothing during the night. "Wednesday, 16th January. P. M. At 3 lost sight of the land. At 3 A. M. Fresh gale. "Thursday, 17th January. P. M. At 12 fresh gales. "Friday, 18th January. P. M. Cape Howe bore north-north-west 3 leagues. A. M. At noon spoke the sloop Nancy to Port Dalrymple. "Saturday, 19th January. P. M. Saw the land of Cape Dromedary. At 11 A. M. Close in with land. "Sunday, 20th January. P. M. At 4 close in with land--at 8 Cape Dromedary4 leagues distant. "Monday, 21st January. P. M. At 7 close in with the land, hauled off at11, saw Port Aikin. * (* Port Hacking?) At noon saw the heads of PortJackson. "Tuesday, 22nd January. Close in with the Heads. At 2 came to anchorabreast of Camp Cove. At 8 A. M. Endeavoured to work up to Sydney Cove. "Wednesday, 23rd January. At 4 came to anchor in Sydney Cove. " . .. CHAPTER 11. THE ESTRAMINA IS BROUGHT TO SYDNEY. THE LADY NELSON VISITS NORFOLK ISLAND AND TASMANIA. When the Lady Nelson came to in Sydney Cove, after completing her voyageto Tasmania, , the Governor gave orders that she should be at once placedin dock and overhauled. For the time being, her crew was distributedamong the king's ships in port, the Buffalo and Investigator, and thecolonial schooner Integrity. By March 30th the little brig was again afloat. She was made ready forsea in consequence of the news brought to Sydney that an armed schooner, called the Estramina, belonging to the King of Spain, was lying in JervisBay. It was also reported to the Governor that the vessel had been seizedoff the American coast by order of Captain Campbell of the Harrington, who claimed to have taken her as a prize, and that she was in charge ofone of Captain Campbell's officers. Uncertain whether hostilities hadactually broken out between England and Spain, His Excellency sent Mr. Symons to Jervis Bay to ascertain whether the schooner was there, and ifso to take possession of her and bring her to Port Jackson. The Lady Nelson sailed to execute this mission on April 3rd. On theevening of the following day she sighted Jervis Bay and, shortly afterentering it, a strange vessel was perceived at anchor at the north-westend of the bay. No sooner did the stranger see the Lady Nelsonapproaching than she hurriedly weighed, and attempted to leave the bay. The attempt was frustrated, however, by Lieutenant Symons, who made sailafter her and fired a gun to bring her to. Seeing that flight wasuseless, the schooner hoisted a St. George's Jack, and eventually came tounder the lee of the Lady Nelson. The commander, finding that she was theHarrington's prize, went on board her, hauled down the English colours, and in their place hoisted the Spanish flag. She was in charge of Mr. William Tozer, one of the Harrington's men, from whom Lieutenant Symonsreceived the log-book and charts. The second mate of the Lady Nelson andthree of her crew were placed in the Estramina, and she left Jervis Bayfor Sydney in company with the Lady Nelson. On the arrival of the vessels in the Cove on the afternoon of April 10th, Governor King and the Judge Advocate went on board the Spanish ship totake Mr. Tozer's depositions. As a result of this visit, orders weregiven that the schooner was to be detained at Sydney "for and on behalfof the Spanish sovereign. " At the same time Governor King declared thatif it were proved hostilities had already broken out when the seizure ofthe Estramina took place, the ship would become the property of theAdmiralty, because the Harrington possessed no letters of marque. TheGovernor also made known his intention of detaining the Harrington at thefirst opportunity so that she might "answer for the event. " The prize, which is described as a beautiful schooner, was never released andeventually became the property of the Government. The Lady Nelson remained in Sydney Cove from April 10th until May 7th, and during her stay she was freshly painted. On the latter date, on thearrival of the Buffalo, she weighed anchor and sailed down the harbour, coming to below Garden Island. She returned again to the Cove on the 10thand then prepared to take salt and brine on board for Norfolk Island. These were needed by the settlers for curing their bacon. The brig sailedon June 2nd and, as usual, discharging the cargo at the island proved adifficult task. Before he could land all his stores, Symons was forced tostand on and off shore for several days. He finally left on July 7th incompany with the Governor King for Sydney. A cargo of wheat from the Greenhills, and a cargo of coals, cedar logsand spars from Newcastle, both of which were brought to Sydney forconsumption there, kept the Lady Nelson busily employed until September27th, when she again cleared the harbour with settlers and stores forPort Dalrymple. The following logs are interesting, because they tell of these visits, and in them we also find recorded some of the first names bestowed uponthis part of Tasmania by Flinders and Paterson. Sydney Cove to Jervis Bay. "Tuesday, 2nd April 1805. A. M. 11 weighed and proceeded down the Harbour. "Wednesday, 3rd April. P. M. Came to anchor off Camp Cove. A. M. At 8cleared the Heads: at noon heavy sea from southward. "Thursday, 4th April. At daylight extremes of land distant 8 miles. "Friday, 5th April. P. M. Running along-shore: at 4 altered course southby west at 8 North Head of Jervis Bay south-west 2 leagues. At 10 hauledinto the bay and stood over to the West shore. At 11 saw a vessel atanchor at north-west end of bay. "Saturday, 6th April. Perceived vessel getting under way and making sailtowards us, hove to, hoisted out boat, perceived vessel to be a schooner, all sails set, hove to and hoisted out colours, the schooner lowered hertop-gallant-sail and hauled her wind to stand out of the bay: filled andmade sail after her, fired a gun, shotted, to bring her to--she hoisted aSt. George's Jack. At 1 P. M. Hove to--the vessel bore down and hove tounder lee quarter, hailed her and was answered that it was the Estramina, a schooner a prize to the Harrington, went on board her and gave theprize mate, Mr. William Tozer, the memorandum and received from him thevessel's Logbook, the Spanish log papers and charts. Mr. William Tozersaid he had no orders from Captain Campbell, that Mr. Cummings had them. At 2 bore up and made sail and came off the island. At 6 sent the 2ndmate and 3 men on board and took out 3 men. At 8 supplied the Estraminawith 1 week's provisions. "Sunday, 7th April. A. M. Carpenter repairing boat. "Monday, 8th April. At 3 weighed and set sail to work into the bay to seeif any more vessels were there: schooner in company. At 6 shortened sailand came to: saw no vessels in the bay. At 3 A. M. Fired 2 guns andhoisted a light as a signal for the schooner to get under weigh. Weighedanchor and made sail, at 4 hove to for the schooner to come up. At noonthe North Head of Jervis Bay bearing north-west 5 miles, the schooner incompany. "Tuesday, 9th April. Altered course. At 11 North Head of Port Jacksondistant 9 miles. "Wednesday, 10th April. P. M. At 1 made the Heads of Port Jackson: tackedship occasionally to work up into the Harbour: the schooner in company:at 2 abreast Bradley's Head: at 3 came to anchor in the entrance of theCove: at 6 weighed and got further up into the Cove: at 7 came to theMoorings. "Thursday, 11th April. P. M. Light breezes and clear, people overhaulingthe schooner for a survey. Sydney Cove to Norfolk Island. "Thursday, 23rd May. Sailed the Investigator for England. "Sunday, 27th May. Unmoored and hauled out of Cove. "Thursday, 31st May. Received passengers for Norfolk Island, fired a gun, made signal for sailing. "Saturday, 1st June. P. M. Weighed and towed to Shark Island. "Sunday, 2nd June. P. M. Half-past 12 made sail down the harbour, at NorthHead, Port Jackson 7 leagues. "Tuesday, 4th June. At 7 A. M. Saw strange sail, hauled up for her andspoke the Ferret, Whaler, last from Norfolk Island bound to England. "Sunday, 9th June. P. M. Strong gales: at 4 heavy squalls with rain, splitthe main stay-sail all to pieces, at 5 broke the tiller, heavy sea. "Monday, 24th June. P. M. Cloudy with rain: at 6 A. M. Saw Phillip's Islandbearing east-north-east 4 leagues, Mount Pitt 7 leagues: at 11 betweenthe Islands, bore up to Cascade: saw the Governor King standing off andon the Island. At noon Pilot came on board. "Tuesday, 25th June. P. M. Standing off Cascade. At 6 Point How N. By S. 2miles: standing under the lee of the Island: Governor King in companythese 12 hours. At noon standing off and on Cascade: fired 2 guns forboat. "Wednesday, 26th June. P. M. Fresh breezes and cloudy. Point How boresouth-south-west 8 leagues: sent boat on shore to repair. "Thursday, 27th June. P. M. At 8 light breezes. Abreast of Mount Pittstanding for Sydney: bent the warps to kedge. At midnight between theIslands: at 8 A. M. Got one boat alongside to discharge stores. "Friday, 28th June. P. M. At 4 people on board discharging stores for theisland at 8 standing to westward, Phillip Island distant 5 miles--at 8brought up abreast Sydney, Governor King in company. "Saturday, 29th June. P. M. At 8 slipt the small cable. A. M. Beat up underlee of Nepean Island. "Sunday, 30th June. P. M. At 4 parted the best bower close to the clinchand stood away to Phillip Island; Norfolk Island west by north 6 miles. At midnight wore ship and stood to South. "Monday, 1st July. P. M. Strong gales, stood to south; Norfolk Islandsouth-west distant 20 miles, at midnight wore ship to Harbour. "Tuesday, 2nd July. P. M. Stood to southward; Norfolk Island 24 miles, these 18 hours wore ship and made sail occasionally. "Wednesday, 3rd July. Repairing rigging. Norfolk Island south-west bysouth 14 miles. "Thursday, 4th July. At noon employed getting the settler's goods, theGovernor King in company. "Friday, 5th July. Received settlers and goods with 4 soldiers. Atmidnight standing to north-east. At 11 A. M. Got a boat on board with theraft. "Saturday, 6th July. At 4 A. M. Standing in and off Island and fell inwith Harbour Buoys. "Sunday, 7th July. P. M. Clearing the boats. Receiving passengers andprisoners on board for Port Jackson. Governor King in company: at 4 and 8A. M. Made sail, at noon Phillip Island 7 leagues. . .. Norfolk Island to Sydney Cove. "Wednesday, 17th July. These 2 hours light breezes and squally. At noonfound the current set to northward about 11 miles. "Thursday, 18th July. Calm and cloudy, at 6 Mount Gore about 7 leagues, at 4 A. M. How's island north-north-east 21 leagues. . .. "Thursday, 25th July. Port Jackson 74 miles. Noon, calm and cloudy. "Friday, 26th July. At 11 A. M. Saw the land of Port Stephens 15 miles. "Saturday, 27th July. P. M. Bent best bower. Extremes of land west bysouth. "Sunday, 28th July. P. M. Standing in for land. At 4 Rabbit Island 7miles. At 12 Boxhead about 8 miles west-south-west, Long Reach south-westby south 15 miles. "Monday, 29th July. P. M. At 4 hove up and made sail for Pittwater, at 6came to, saw two vessels coming in, fired 3 guns to bring them to: at 6weighed and made sail for Port Jackson: North Head south-south-west. "Tuesday, 30th July. At 2 set steering sails for Port Jackson Heads, fired 2 guns for a light. At 11 came to between the Heads, two schoonersin company. At 4 working up the Harbour. At 10 came to in Sydney Cove. . .. "Monday, 5th August. P. M. Weighed and made sail out of Cove. At 2 came toin stream with small bower in 9 fathoms. At 8 made sail down theHarbour--at 10 North Head of Port Jackson south by west 5 miles. At 1came to in Broken Bay not being able to work up the river. "Tuesday, 6th August. P. M. At 4 weighed and made sail with the floodtide. At 7 came to in Mullet Island Reach. A. M. Endeavoured to work up, the wind blowing strong came to again, passed by a schooner. . .. "Friday, 9th August. P. M. At 6 made sail up River: at 1 came to abreastof Green Hills. Employed clearing the hold to take in wheat. "Monday, 12th August. P. M. Calm and cloudy, unmoored ship and towed upriver. A. M. Came to abreast of Cornwallis Farm. "Tuesday, 13th August. At 8 hauled alongside the wharf and took in 157bushels of wheat for Government. "Wednesday, 14th August. P. M. At 2 up anchored and towed down to theGreenhills: received Government order to deliver over main-sail andmain-top-sail. At noon received wheat, stowing it away, and hemp forGovernment. "Thursday, 15th August. P. M. Fresh breezes. Received 800 bushels wheat. At 8 made sail down the river. "Friday, 16th August. P. M. At 5 towed down the River. A. M. At 1 came toin Portland Reach to get on board cedar for Government: at 11 hoisted in3 logs. "Monday, 19th August. At 7 weighed and made sail down River: at 1 A. M. Came to in Branch Reach: at 11 going through the narrows grounded, ranthe kedge out and hove off. "Tuesday, 20th August. At 3 cleared into Port Jackson: half-past came toin Sydney Cove. Employed delivering wheat. "Monday, 26th August. Working down Harbour: at 4 came to off South Head:at 5 made sail out of the Heads. "Tuesday, 27th August. North Head, Broken Bay west-north-west 7 miles, at3 the Coal Island west-north-west at 5 miles--at 10 A. M. Hauled inbetween Heads, a boat came off from shore from Kingstown. * (* i. E. Newcastle. ) "Wednesday, 28th August. Found the vessel driving in shore. Found 2vessels laying there. "Thursday, 29th August. At noon, sailed Contest schooner. "Friday, 30th August. People employed getting on board coals and cedarfor Government. "Thursday, 5th September. Received on board 8 tons of coals, employedstowing cedar. "Friday, 6th September. P. M. Sailed the Governor Hunter, schooner, forSydney. Employed stowing cedar. "Saturday, 7th September. P. M. At 4 heavy squalls, hove up the best bowerand hauled out in the stream, at 6 made sail, shaped our course forSydney. At 1 A. M. The wind hauled round north-east. At 8 Broken Bay west8 miles North Head Point south-south-west 6 miles, at noon hauled in forHeads. "Sunday 8th September. P. M. Working into the Harbour: at 2 rounded theSouth reef: at 3 came to in Sydney Cove. Employed getting the cedar outand spars for the Resource. Sydney Cove to Port Dalrymple. "Saturday, 14th September. Received on board for Port Dalrymple 16 casksflour. "Monday, 16th September. A. M. Went on board the Harrington to unmoor herby Government order and lashed her alongside the Supply. "Tuesday, 17th September. At noon strong breezes. "Wednesday, 18th September. Provisioning ship, puddening the anchor. "Thursday, 19th September. Received on board for Port Dalrymple 12 BalesSlop Clothing, bar iron and other stores, A. M. 150 new hats, one casknails and hoes, carpenter making gun carriages. "Friday, 20th September. Received 10 casks, one of salt for PortDalrymple, sailed the Honduras, packet for England. "Thursday, 26th September. P. M. Hove short. A. M. Towed out of the Cove, at 9 came to in the stream. Received on board 2 settlers and 1 prisonerfor Port Dalrymple. "Friday, 27th September. P. M. Weighed and made sail, at 7 North Headnorth-north-west 2 miles. At noon Pigeon House west-south-west 7 leagues. "Tuesday, 1st October. P. M. Heavy gale and sea, at noon bore up forTwofold Bay. "Wednesday, 2nd October. P. M. Made all sail for Snug Cove. Found theGovernor Hunter lying there. "Saturday, 5th October. At 2 made sail out of Bay, schooner in company. At 12 schooner out of sight astern. "Sunday, 6th October. P. M. At 6 saw the land, Kent's Groupsouth-south-west 10 miles, bore up for Group--at 9 came to in East Cove. "Friday, 11th October. P. M. At 7 weighed and made sail out of Kent'sGroup. "Saturday, 12th October. P. M. At 6 saw the flag-staff on the west head, at 8 fired a gun to make the people on shore make a fire, half-past 8fired another, at 9 entered the Heads, came on board a Pilot, at 1 got onshore, out kedge to warp off, at 2 came to in Western Arm, at 8 weighedand kedged up the Arm to the Settlement, at 11 came to in 3 fathomswater. At noon calm and cloudy weather. "Sunday, 13th October. P. M. Moderate and cloudy. "Monday, 14th October. P. M. Fresh breezes and variable. A. M. Calm andclear, got cables on deck to discharge cargo. "Monday, 21st October. A. M. Weighed and towed down the arm, at 11 fired agun, made sail up river. "Tuesday, 22nd October. P. M. At 7 calm and cloudy, came to abreast ofSwan Point. At 7 weighed and made sail, found the small bower anchorstock broke off and totally gone. Came on board Colonel Paterson, 3soldiers, settler and boat's crew, Mr. Williams, the Surveyor and 3 men. "Wednesday, 23rd October. Weighed and made sail up the River, at 11 cameto above Upper Island in 3 fathoms water. "Saturday, 26th October. P. M. Weighed and towed down the River, at 10grounded on a mud flat. "Sunday, 27th October. P. M. At 1 hove off into the stream, at 5 weighedand made sail down the River--at 6 came to, found we could not beat down. A. M. At 4 towed down the River--at 10 came to in the Crescent Reach. "Monday, 28th October. P. M. At 5 weighed and made sail down the River. At10 came to off Point Rapid, at 5 towed down River, at 11 came to inWestern Arm. "Thursday, 31st October. P. M. Cutting spars for beacons. Employed downthe harbour putting up the beacon. "Friday, 1st November. A. M. Down the Harbour at the beacons. Erected twobeacons, with flags on, below the Islands, one white flag the other red. "Thursday, 7th November. Put up altogether four beacons with flags with20 yards of bunting. "Monday, 11th November. At 8 A. M. Unmoored ship. "Tuesday, 12th November. P. M. Strong gales, at 2 weighed and made saildown the River, came to in Barran's Pool. "Wednesday, 13th November. People on shore filling water. "Thursday, 14th November. Came on board 11 prisoners and other passengersfor Port Jackson. Port Dalrymple to Sydney Cove. "Friday, 15th November. P. M. Came on board Colonel Paterson and deliveredthe dispatches, at 6 weighed and made sail down the Harbour, at 9 came toabreast of Lagoon Reach. A. M. At 6 made sail. "Saturday, 16th November. Heavy sea, at 10 saw the Pyramid bearing northby east 6 miles, half-past saw Kent's Group. "Sunday, 17th November. P. M. At 2 saw a sunken reef north-north-west ofthe Stuck Rocks and from Kent's Group, about 15 miles, two miles from theBig Stuck, the sea breaking over them; at 5 Kent's Group bearingwest-south-west. At 9 saw two vessels on the larboard bow: fired a gun tobring them to, spoke them, the one the Nancy and the other the Fly, sloop, from Port Jackson. "Monday, 18th November. At 6 Cape How north at 7 miles, at 7 alteredcourse, at Cape Green west-south-west. At noon Twofold Bay south-westabout 4 leagues. "Tuesday, 19th November. At noon moderate and cloudy weather, MountDromedary distant 6 or 7 leagues. "Wednesday, 20th November. P. M. At 6 Pigeon House north-west at 4leagues. Jervis Bay west-south-west about 10 miles. At noon Five islandswest about 7 miles. "Thursday, 21st November. P. M. At 7 South Head, Port Jackson, north about13 miles, at half-past 9 bore up for the Harbour, half-past 11 came toSydney Cove with the best bower. "Monday, 25th November. Received on board 4 sheep for the ship's company. At 8 came alongside the punt with flour for Port Dalrymple. "Wednesday, 27th November. Arrived H. M. S. Buffalo from the River Derwent, at 4 weighed and towed out into the stream. Sydney Cove to Port Dalrymple. "Thursday, 28th November. P. M. At 3 weighed and made sail, at 7 came tobetween Heads. A. M. At 4 made sail. "Friday, 29th November. P. M. Heavy sea. Standing to Southward, at 7Botany Bay 4 miles, Point Hicks south-west 11 miles. At noon Justice'sBay west 15 miles. "Wednesday, 4th December. At 6 saw the land Kent's Group, South Hogan'sGroup west-south-west 4 leagues; at half-past 7 a heavy squall withthunder and lightning and rain from the north-west. At noon saw theSisters. "Thursday, 5th December. Heavy sea running, the Sisters west-south-westabout 4 miles, at 6 hauled up for a sandy beach bearing S. S. Found thisplace a good shelter from the wind and good riding, found the tidesetting about cast and west, at 4 made sail, Rocky Island south-east 1/2east 4 miles standing alongshore, Gull Island south-south-east 5 miles. *(* Islands of the Furneaux Group. ) "Friday, 6th December. At half-past one passed between Gull Island andthe main--found a good channel with 4 fathoms at low water, at 4 tackedto work up the narrows; at 9 came to in the Village not being able towork up, the tide having made. * (* Probably the Lady Nelson anchored inKent's Bay, where there was a sealing village. ) Saw a small vessel layingin the Head of the bay. "Saturday, 7th December. P. M. At 5 the tide having made, made sail up thebay: found the vessel to be the Raven of Port Jackson. A. M. Tacked towork out of bay. At noon moderate breezes and cloudy. Preservation Islandnorth-north-east 3 miles. "Sunday, 8th December. P. M. At 4 Waterhouse Island about 10 miles. A. M. At 6 saw Head of Port Dalrymple south-west about 4 miles. At noon came toin Western Arm in 2 fathoms with best bower. Port Dalrymple to Sydney Cove. "Friday, 13th December. At 5 weighed and towed down Harbour, at 9 came toin Barren's Pool, at 9 cleared the Harbour, Marcia, schooner, in company. Stoney Head south-east 4 miles. "Saturday, 14th December. Twentyday Island south-east by east about 10miles, at 6 set leeward steering sails--Waterhouse Islandsouth-south-east 4 miles, at 10 hove too off Preservation Island, * at 4made sail for Cape Barren. Clark's Island* south-south-west about 10miles. "Sunday, 15th December. At noon weighed, and dropped farther down theBay. "Wednesday, 18th December. Light airs and thick, at 7 weighed and madesail, at 12 Sea Lyon Island* south-south-west about 10 miles. (* Islandsof the Furneaux Group. ) Saturday, 21st December. At 4 heavy sea, at 5 saw strange sail, found thesame to be the Estramina, at 8 lost sight of her. "Sunday, 22nd December. At sunset saw the land extremes from south-westto north-west by north distant off shore 7 leagues. A. M. At 8 made allsail for Port Jackson: at 9 hauled in for the Heads: at half-past 11 cameto in Sydney Cove. " CHAPTER 12. TIPPAHEE AND HIS FOUR SONS ARE CONVEYED TO NEW ZEALAND IN THE LADYNELSON. The following months were months well spent by England's little ship;months which, like many others, left their mark on the early history ofAustralia and New Zealand, when seed was sown in England's name that wasafterwards to bear fruit and extend her power and prosperity. Empire builders to-day may well envy those whose lot it was to be thefirst in that vast southern field. They were a gallant little band who, in early days, carried themother-flag from New South Wales to lands and islands yet more distant, discovering the shores, planting the first settlements and moulding theminto shape--men who worked with such untiring energy that succeedinggenerations found a city, where lately had stood a few miserable huts, and a flourishing seaport surrounding a once silent cove. Looking back across one hundred and twenty years of time, we can picturethe empty spaces on the sea-shore, which are now towns, and themonotonous wildernesses of bushland, which have been replaced by smilinglandscapes; and we can realise the enormous difficulties that had to beovercome before houses could be built, or the bushland cleared andcultivated. One of the first letters (perhaps the very first from a woman's pen to behanded down to us) written from Sydney, in November 1788, thus describesthe Mother-settlement at the beginning. "We have now two streets, if four rows of the most miserable huts you canpossibly conceive deserve that name. Windows they have none as from theGovernor's house (now nearly finished) no glass could be spared, so thatlattices of twigs are made by our people to supply their places. At theextremity of the lines where since our arrival the dead are buried thereis a place called the churchyard. .. " and then, telling of the only foodobtainable there, in addition to the hard fare provided by theGovernment, the writer continues, "Our kangaroo cats are like mutton butmuch leaner and there is a kind of chickweed so much in taste likespinach that no difference can be discerned. Something like ground ivy isused for tea but a scarcity of salt and sugar makes our best mealsinsipid. .. Everyone is so taken up with their own misfortunes that theyhave no pity to bestow on others. "* (* To-day Sydney is the seventh cityof the Empire. ) What was written of Sydney may be said to have been trueof all the settlements. Everywhere hardships were encountered, andeverywhere they were surmounted. The Lady Nelson's log will show how in 1806 she paid a second and perhapsa more important visit to New Zealand. Her commander was instructed byGovernor King to convey Tippahee, a New Zealand Chief of the Bay ofIslands on the north-east coast, back from Sydney to his own dominions. At some time previously a son of this Chief had been brought to PortJackson in a whaling vessel. The Governor had shown him kindness and hadordered some pigs to be sent from Norfolk Island to New Zealand for hisfather, and Tippahee, on receiving the present, had himself resolved topay a visit to Governor King. He embarked with his four sons in a smallcolonial whaling vessel bound for Norfolk Island. The voyage was hardly asuccess, for on his arrival there he complained to the authorities thatthe master of the ship had treated them badly and had detained hisyoungest son. Captain Piper, the Commandant, gave them a very kindreception, and it is said rescued the youngest son from the master of thewhaler. Shortly afterwards, H. M. S. Buffalo called at Norfolk Island, whenTippahee, with his sons, was received on board by Captain Houston, andafter the Buffalo had visited Tasmania, the New Zealanders were broughtto Sydney, where, dressed in the costume of a Chief of his country, Tippahee did homage to Governor King. We are told that this meant layinga mat at Governor King's feet and performing the ceremony of "joiningnoses. " The Governor seems to have developed a great admiration forTippahee. He allowed the Maori Chief to remain, along with his eldestson, as a guest at Government House, and provided his other sons withsuitable lodgings. The Chief is described as being 5 feet 11 1/2 incheshigh, stout and athletic looking, and about forty-six years of age. Hisface was completely tattooed. Among other things, King writes of him thathe was "a constant attendant at Divine Service, " and he adds, "he had acontempt of the Australian aborigine. " The Reverend Samuel Marsden, then chaplain in Sydney, became intimatelyacquainted with Tippahee, and he, too, states that he found him "a man ofvery superior understanding and capable of receiving any instruction. Hiscompanions also manifested strong mental faculties. " When the Maoris hadremained in the colony as long as they wished--by that time becomingfamiliar figures to all the citizens of Sydney--the Governor gaveinstructions for the Lady Nelson to be fitted up to convey them back totheir own country. Before their departure they were loaded with presentsby the Governor and other friends, the gifts being carefully packed inchests and put on board the brig. On this voyage Governor King alsoordered some bricks and the framework of a house for New Zealand to bereceived as part of the cargo. On February 25th, Tippahee and his sons bade farewell to New South Walesand their numerous friends there, and on their going on board, the LadyNelson immediately set sail for the Bay of Islands. During the voyage the Chief was taken ill and Mr. Symons ordered a youngman named George Bruce to nurse him. So well did Bruce carry out hisduties, that Tippahee afterwards requested that he might be allowed toremain in New Zealand. * (* The request was granted, and Bruce wasafterwards given Tippahee's daughter in marriage. How badly the pair weretreated by the captain of a British vessel, which called at New Zealandto refit, is told in the Sydney Gazette, which states that Bruce and hiswife were carried away from New Zealand in the Wellesley, first to Fijiand afterwards to Malacca, where Bruce was left behind. His wife wastaken on to Penang, but on his making a complaint to the commandingofficer at Malacca, that gentleman warmly espoused Bruce's cause and senthim to Bengal, where the authorities extended him aid, and eventually hiswife was restored to him. ) The Chief's illness may have been an attack of sea-sickness, due to theroughness of the passage, as the log records that the weather was verysqually. On March 2nd the Lady Nelson made a great deal of water and had to bepumped out. The vessel still remained in a leaky state, and thisdrawback, in conjunction with the cross currents and heavy gales that sheencountered, greatly retarded her progress. A succession of gales followed, consequently the land of New Zealand wasnot sighted until March 30th, when at noon it was observed for the firsttime, trending from east-south-east to north-east. At eight o'clock in the evening a prominent cape was seen eight milesdistant, which Symons records was North-West Cape (or Cape Maria VanDiemen). At eleven the ship hauled round to the eastward and hove to. Native fires were seen burning on land. Next morning at six o'clock theLady Nelson made sail and stood in shore, and as she made her appearanceshe was met by two native canoes, but perceiving that the coast was veryrocky and a gale arising the commander stood to the westward, Tuniticothen being east-south-east half a mile. At five o'clock in the afternoonhe again endeavoured to anchor, and the Lady Nelson was brought to in abay "in 15 fathoms of water, sand and shells. " Five canoes camealongside, and as the Maoris appeared very friendly a boat-load of woodand of water was obtained. Working his way round the coast, which he says he could not "fetch, " onApril 3rd Lieutenant Symons made all sail for a bay to the south-east, and in the evening the ship came to anchorage, being then eleven leaguesfrom North Cape. Of this place her Commander writes, "There are threeislands laying to the south-east by north; one to the north which willbreak off all sail from this point of the compass. One of these islandsis very thinly inhabited. " The boat was lowered to sound between theisland and the main, as a reef was perceived running out astern, and thesoundings gave ten to five fathoms. At ten o'clock on April 4th the LadyNelson again weighed and made sail to work to windward, and at elevencame to in eight fathoms of water--the bottom being "fine sand andshells. " At four o'clock two canoes containing only three men came alongside theship, and early on the following morning three New Zealand Chiefs fromthe Island of Titteranee, friends of Tippahee, came to welcome theircountryman on his return. On the Island of Titteranee the natives were very friendly. One of theirnumber, who had spent some time at Norfolk Island, came on board, * (* Hewas named Tookee. ) and the Chiefs supplied the ship with a quantity offish, for which Lieutenant Symons gave them bread in exchange. During thevessel's stay, the Chiefs of Titteranee were not only constant visitors, but some appear to have remained altogether in the ship. Possibly theCommander saw a little too much of Tippahee and his friends, as while theboats were on shore cutting brooms and obtaining water, the former wasexceedingly troublesome on board--two or three times causing adisturbance by lifting up weapons and threatening the seamen at theirwork. At noon on the 12th of April, Mr. Symons records that he becamevery mutinous. An Otaheitan in the ship informed the Commander that hehad asked one of the Chiefs to go on shore and bring his men to attackthe vessel. Tippahee's residence was at the Bay of Islands, and it seemsfortunate that Lieutenant Symons was able to land him safely among hisown people, for according to the Sydney Gazette he wielded great powerand was acknowledged to be a great Chief by the New Zealanders "from theNorth Cape to his own dwelling place. " On April 20th, before reaching the Bay of Islands, the Commander of theLady Nelson went to examine a deep bay to the south-west, which heexplored. He found at the bottom of this bay a river which "ransouth-south-east and north-north-west about three miles and one from thewest-south-west to west-north-west. .. After the first Reach the River runsflat and 3 or 4 leagues. On the larboard shore of the river it is notsafe for any vessel, drawing more than 12 feet, to attempt entering. " Healso mentions a lagoon which ran at the back of the beach to the eastwardof the River and a deep bay; these were about one mile apart. In returning from this little expedition of exploration--which was a veryearly one--the boat was upset and two muskets, three powder horns, andtwo pistols were lost. Symons had already lost the stock of the smallbower anchor, the deep-sea lead, and the seine among the rocks. On April22nd the ship took her departure from this harbour, leaving behind herhere a seaman named Joseph Druce who deserted and could not be found. On the evening of the same day Cavill's or Cavalli Island was sighted, and a native fire could be seen burning there. At noon the latitudeobserved was 34 degrees 43 minutes 57 seconds south. Next morning, whileworking off and on the shore, Cape Brett, some fourteen miles distant tothe eastward, and at noon Point Pocock (of Captain Cook) which lay to thesouth-east came into view. * (* The Point Pocock of Cook is now CapeWiwiki. ) On Friday the 25th April the Lady Nelson, escorted by three canoes boreup between two islands in the Bay of Islands and came to under the Islandof Matuapo in two fathoms. Tippahee's home was situated on the north sideof the Bay of Islands, just within Point Pocock, and is described as "aconsiderable Hippah strongly fortified. " The district extending to thenorthward was called Whypopoo, but Tippahee claimed the whole countryacross the island from Muri Whenua. * (* The name for the land's end ormost northern part of New Zealand. ) At the same time he admitted that histwo great rivals were Mowpah, who was Chief of the territory in theneighbourhood of the River Thames, and Moodee, Chief of the territory tothe northward. Lieutenant Symons lost no time in sending the presents given to theMaoris at Sydney on shore, and at daylight on the day after his arrivalhe also landed the bricks and the framework of the wooden house. Thehouse, by Governor King's orders, was to be erected in the most suitablespot possible, and was intended for the use of any officials who might besent from Sydney, or for any missionaries whom the Governor might permitto dwell there. The carpenter was sent on shore to carry out theGovernor's instructions, and he built the house on an island in the Bayof Islands on a site selected by Mr. Symons, who afterwards stated thatthe island was a very small one, but he believed that the house would beimpregnable, and able to withstand the attacks of any force that thecountry at that time could bring against it. * (* This house was one ofthe first, if not the very first house, to be built in New Zealand. We donot hear even of a single sealer's hut then at the Bay of Islands, butshortly afterwards settlers and missionaries from Sydney arrived there, and in 1815 (see Calcutta Gazette, April 27th), after the missionariesarrived, houses began to grow up, and the Bombay Courier, November 20th, 1819, says of it, "The settlement at New Zealand appears to have assumeda regular form and to be regarded as a British Colony regulated under thecontrol of New South Wales Government Authority. On September 29th theMissionaries, sent out by the Church Missionary Society, took theirdeparture from Sydney for the Bay of Islands on board the American brigGeneral Gates, one of them, the Reverend J. Butler, having previouslybeen appointed by Governor Macquarie to act as justice of the peace andmagistrate of the Island of New Zealand. ") The Lady Nelson waited for five days in the Bay of Islands, until thecarpenter had completed his work, and during that time Tippahee, whoseems to have overcome his fit of temper, brought on board many presentsfor his friends in Sydney, sending one to each person individually; thesewere for the most part weapons of war, which, observes the SydneyGazette, "must have somewhat diminished his native armoury. " A sample ofNew Zealand flax (Phormium tenax) was also brought back from Tippahee'sdominions. The flax was used by the Maoris not only in weaving mats andkirtles, but also for making fishing lines. The lines, although they weretwisted entirely by hand, resembled the finest cord of Europeanmanufacture, The most useful presents, however, sent on board by Tippaheewere some fine ships' spars, which New Zealand produced in greatabundance, and also a quantity of seed potatoes, then very scarce inSydney, and consequently greatly appreciated. Leaving New Zealand, and after passing Three Kings' Islands, LieutenantSymons steered to Norfolk Island, where he embarked some men of the NewSouth Wales Corps under Ensign Lawson for Sydney. During the long voyageof four months, the brig sustained no material damage, though she metwith continuous bad weather, "thus preserving her character, " says theSydney Gazette, "as being a vessel of the greatest capability, considering her small dimensions. " This log throws fresh light on the character of Tippahee, who had beenoverwhelmed with kindness at Sydney and on board the Lady Nelson. Notwithstanding this, Symons seems to have very narrowly escaped beingattacked by the Maoris. In 1809, when almost every person on the Boyd wasmurdered at Wangaroa, Captain Thompson was almost universally blamed forbeing too hasty with Tippahee. He had previously resented some slighttheft, and on the old chief's coming to pay his respects, had told him"not to bother him as he was too busy. " Possibly Captain Thompson'scritics judged him too harshly, for had he been as watchful of Tippaheeas Mr. Symons apparently was, the massacre of the Boyd might not haveoccurred. From Sydney to New Zealand. Laying at Port Jackson. JAMES SYMONS, Commander. "Sunday, 19th January. 1806. P. M. At 1 fired a salute in honour of theQueen's birthday. "Tuesday, 21st January. Received a boatload of bricks for New Zealand andstowed them away. "Wednesday, 22nd January. Received boatload of bricks for New Zealand, sent for a boatload of firewood. "Thursday, 23rd January. Strong breezes and cloudy with a great smoke inthe woods. "Friday, 24th January. Received on board part of a house for New Zealand. "Saturday, 25th January. P. M. Received the remainder of the house. "Monday, 27th January. A. M. Received 2 chests on board for Tippahee goingto New Zealand. "Monday, 10th February. Sailed the Estramina, Spanish schooner, for PortDalrymple. "Wednesday, 12th February. Arrived ship Sophia and a boat fromTellicherry, a ship on the coast which was short of water. "Thursday, 13th February. Made the signal for sailing, arrived theTellicherry from England. "Friday, 14th February. Came into the Cove the Sophia and Tellicherry. "Saturday, 15th February. Fired a gun and made signal for sailing. "Sunday, 16th February. Received from Tellicherry on account ofGovernment, 3600 pounds bread. "Sunday, 23rd February. Arrived the Star Whaler from England in 18 weeks. "Tuesday, 25th February. Weighed and made sail down the Harbour--came onboard Tippahee and his 4 sons for their passage to New Zealand. "Wednesday, 26th February. P. M. Port Jackson at 4 north-west 6 miles: at7 North Head bearing south-west by south about 12 miles. "Saturday, 1st March. P. M. Fresh breezes. At 12 strong gales: found thecurrent had set the vessel to southwards: the rate of 10 miles per day. "Sunday, 2nd March. P. M. Strong gales heavy sea: found the vessel hadmade a great deal of water, pumped her out: found the vessel's deck leakvery much. "Monday, 17th March. Heavy sea still running: found the current had setto windward about 40 miles. 35 degrees 35 seconds south. "Friday, 21st March. Noon, moderate breezes, the current set to thenorthward, 3/4 mile per hour. 33 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds south. "Saturday, 22nd March. At 9 A. M. Capsized boat, got the main keel up, carpenter repairing it. 33 degrees 40 minutes 48 seconds south. "Sunday, 30th March. North Cape distant 47 miles. "Monday, 31st March. P. M. Strong breezes and squally, bore up and ranalongshore, slitthe main top-gallant sail, employed getting the stirrup down and anotherup, at 8 North-West Cape or Cape Maria van Dieman north-west by north 8miles at 10 wore and stood to the Westward Tunitico on east-south-eastabout 1/2 mile. Two canoes alongside. "Tuesday, 1st April. P. M. Made and shortened sail--at 5 found the windhang to south-east. At 10 found the vessel driving, wore away 2 thirds ofthe cable. At noon tide flows northward and alongshore about 5 feet, 5canoes came alongside, the natives appear very friendly. "Wednesday, 2nd April. P. M. Strong gales. At 4 came to in 20 fathoms ofwater, fine brown sand, the bottom appears in general very good and clearof rocks. Any ship or vessel may lay here with the wind from south-westto south-east in safety. "Thursday, 3rd April. P. M. Tacked to work round the North Cape, at 8North Cape south 2 miles. At noon about 15 miles. "Friday, 4th April. P. M. At 4 fresh breezes and squally. At 6 shortenedsail and came to at all leagues from the North Cape. There are threeislands laying to the south-east by north one to the north which willbreak off all sail from this point of the compass. One of the islands isvery thinly inhabited. At 10 weighed and made sail, to work to windward, at 11 came to in 8 fathoms of water--fine sand and shells. "Saturday, 5th April. P. M. At 4 came alongside 2 canoes with only 3 men. Lost the stock of the small bower anchor, unstocked the kedge and stockedthe small bower, at 8 A. M. Came alongside 3 chiefs from the Island ofTitteranee, friends of Tippahee. Latitude of anchorage 34 degrees 47minutes 20 seconds south. "Sunday, 6th April. On the Island of Titteranee found the natives veryfriendly, the native Tookee that went to Norfolk Island came on board, the chiefs supplied the ship with fish, gave them bread in lieu. "Monday, 7th April. P. M. Employed watering vessel, people on shorecutting brooms. "Tuesday, 8th April. P. M. Several canoes alongside. Three chiefs onboard. Boat returned having lost the seine among the rocks. "Wednesday, 9th April. A. M. Sent people on shore to cut firewood. "Thursday, 10th April. Moderate and cloudy. Painting ship. "Friday, 11th April. Strong gales with rain. The 3 chiefs still on board. "Saturday, 12th April. A. M. Tippahee 2 or 3 times attempted to raise adisturbance in the vessel, lifted up weapons against some of the menwhilst putting their orders into force. At noon Tippahee became verymutinous. I have understood from an Otaheitan on board he told one of thechiefs to go on shore and bring his men to attack the vessel. "Sunday, 13th April. P. M. Ditto weather with a heavy sea in the offing, the wind has not changed more than 2 points these six days, sent the boatfor greens for the Brig's company. "Monday, 14th April. P. M. Strong gales with heavy rain. Painted ship, sent boat for greens. "Tuesday, 15th April. At 8 A. M. Sent for water. "Wednesday, 16th April. Received boatload of water, people cutting woodon shore. "Thursday, 17th April. At 4 sent boat for greens. "Friday, 18th April. Sent boat for cask of water. A. M. Sent boat forgreens, 2 chiefs on board. "Saturday, 19th April. P. M. Sent boat for water. Strong breezes andsqually. "Sunday, 20th April. P. M. Went with the boat to examine a deep bay to thesouth-west. Found at the bottom of the bay a river to runsouth-south-east and north-north-west about 3 miles, and one from thewest-south-west to west-north-west there is about 4 fathoms water, it isnot safe for any vessel drawing more than 12 feet to attempt entering, the tide runs out at 2 knots and flows about 8 or 10 feet. There is ashoal running off towards the starboard shore about west from the leewardshore, half-way up the bottom is a fine sand. There is a lagoon runs allalong the deep bay aback of the beach; to the eastward of the River thereis a deep bay runs in, about one mile apart. In returning on board theboat upset and lost overboard 2 musquets, 3 powder horns and 2 pistols. "Monday, 21st April. Lost overboard 2 woodaxes. "Tuesday, 22nd April. A. M. Weighed and made sail out of bay. Run from theship Joseph Druce. "Wednesday, 23rd April. P. M. Strong breezes with heavy swell--at 6Cavill's Island about 6 leagues--at 12 tacked ship, saw a fire on shore, at 8 Cavill's Island about 10 miles. Noon. Latitude observed 34 degrees43 minutes 57 seconds. "Thursday, 24th April. Standing off and on working in shore, PointPocock* (* Point Pocock of Cook now called Cape Wiwiki. ) east-south-eastCape Brett east 14 miles. At 6 Cavill's Island south-south-east about 8miles, at 12 fresh breezes and squally, at 4 ditto weather, tackedCavill's Island south-west about 6 miles, at 8 tacked moderate, squally. At noon Point Pocock south-east Cape Brett about 14 miles. Latitudeobserved 35 degrees 3 minutes south. "Friday, 25th April. P. M. Moderate breezes and cloudy. Point Pocock about6 miles, Cape Brett east by south 18 miles. At 8, 3 canoes alongside. Atnoon bore up between 2 islands and came to under the island Matuapo in 2fathoms water. "Saturday, 26th April. P. M. Light winds and variable. A. M. At daylightgot the house on deck and sent on shore the carpenter to build. Sent onshore all the tools and articles belonging to Tippahee. "Monday, 28th April. A. M. Got on board 7 spars from the chief. "Tuesday, 29th April. P. M. Strong breezes and squally weather. Stowed andlashed the spars. Carpenter about the house. "Wednesday, 30th April. P. M. People stowing away wood. At noon hauled theboat on shore to repair--carpenter about the house. "Thursday, 1st May. P. M. Small rain. Stowing away fire-wood, launched theboat. A. M. At 6 towed out in the stream, at 8 came to, Cape Bretteast-north-east 8 miles. At noon sent back on shore for potatoes. "Friday, 2nd May. At 6 made sail to work out of Cove, finding we couldnot weather the Cape Brett, bore up to come to an anchor, bore up for abay to leeward. "Saturday, 3rd May. P. M. Sounded in 24 fathoms sandy bottom, thesoundings run from 24 to 13 fathoms, very regular until you shut theSouthern Island and Point Pocock in, then shells from 10 to 5 fathomssand bottom. "Sunday, 4th May. Several canoes alongside. Sailmaker making canvasbuckets. "Tuesday, 6th May. At 8 A. M. 30 canoes alongside: at 11 strong breezesfrom westward, in boat. "Wednesday, 7th May. P. M. At 2 A. M. Made sail out of the bay: at 5 PointPocock south-south-west 1 1/2 miles: at 8 Cavill's Island west-north-west8 miles. At noon 7 canoes alongside. "Thursday, 8th May. At 10 light breezes from the southward: weighed andmade sail between Cavill's Island and the main, current not less than 5fathoms mid-channel: at 6 ten canoes alongside. Wongoroa Island bearingsouth-south-west about 12 miles, Cavill Island south-east 4 miles. "Friday, 9th May. P. M. Several canoes alongside. At 4 Wongaroa Islandsouth-east about 3 miles: at 5 light breezes, made all sail along thecoast, at 6 Cavill Island east by south. Wongaroa south-east by south. Knuckle Point west 5 leagues, A. M. Knuckle Point south 3 miles: set up. At noon North-West Cape about 6 miles: 5 canoes alongside. "Saturday, 10th May. At 2 bore up and made sail for Norfolk Island. "Friday, 16th May. Light breezes and variable, thunder and lightning. Found the current setting to north-east about 10 miles. By doublealtitude latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes 32 seconds. Latitude byobservation 29 degrees 23 minutes 57 seconds. "Monday, 19th May. Fresh breezes, wind and rain--at 4 Norfolk Islandwest-north-west and Phillip Island west 4 miles--at 5 bore up for Sydney. At 6 fired a gun and made signal for a pilot, at 7 a boat came off fromthe shore and received a pilot. "Wednesday, 21st May. Calm and dark cloudy weather with heavy showers ofrain at times. At daylight saw a strange sail to south-east. At 7 joinedcompany and proved to be the Ocean Whaler, from New Zealand. "Thursday, 22nd May. Strong breezes and cloudy. Working between theislands. Noon, received no boat these 24 hours, landing being so bad. "Friday, 23rd May. At daylight bore up for Sydney finding they would notsend off a boat from Cascade, at 6 working in for Sydney. "Saturday, 24th May. P. M. Working in for Sydney. Received from OceanWhaler 4 gallons of oil for use of vessel, at midnight stood in for bay, the flagstaff north-east by north. At noon received 2 boatloads ofsundries. Norfolk Island to Sydney. "Monday, 26th May. Received on board Ensign Lawson New South Wales Corpswith 6 privates and their baggage for a passage to Port Jackson, discharged the pilot, at 7 weighed and made all sail for Port Jackson. "Thursday, 5th June. Heavy sea from north-east. At 1 wind shifted to thesouth-east. Wore ship, Ball's Pyramid, at 6 distant off shore 10 miles, at 11 found main keel gone. "Monday, 9th June. P. M. Fresh breezes, quarter past 3, Point Stephensbearing west-north-west about 12 miles. At noon fresh breezes and squallyweather, Collier's Point north-west 1/2 west about 7 leagues, found thecurrent setting to the northward about 18 hours this day. "Tuesday, 10th June. At sunset Cape Three points south-west 1/2 west, Bird Island S. By S. About 5 miles. "Friday, 13th June. Light breezes and cloudy. At 8 saw the light on thesouth head of Port Jackson, came on board pilot and took charge of thevessel, at 9 came to finding the tide done. At noon Bradley's Head 2miles. "Saturday, 14th June. Half-past 1 weighed and made sail up the harbour, at half-past 3 came to in Sydney Cove. "Sunday, 20th July. A. M. Received orders to take the crew of H. M. BrigLady Nelson on board the Estramina, colonial schooner, to fit her out. Sent the schooner anchor and a cable per order. At noon sent the officersand men on board to assist--they are to be considered as lent for H. M. Service. (Signed) [Facsimile signature James Symons. ] Commander. Lieutenant Symons' logbook closes with the entry dated July 20th, 1806, and is the last log of the Lady Nelson preserved at the Public RecordOffice. It is quite possible that others are in existence, either inEngland, or in Sydney, although the present writer has not been able todiscover them. It must not be supposed that the useful work performed by the littlevessel ended at this date, as for years she continued to sail into andout of Port Jackson. For a short time Lieutenant Symons and her crew wereturned over to the Estramina, the Spanish prize appropriated by GovernorKing, and used in the colonial service until 1817, when she was lostwhile coming out of the Hunter River with a cargo of coal. But in November 1806 we again find the Lady Nelson carrying stores toNewcastle, and on her return voyage she brought Lieutenant Putland, R. N. (Governor Bligh's son-in-law), with other passengers, back from theSettlement. * (* Sydney Gazette, December, 1806. ) Shortly afterwards Mr. Symons joined H. M. S. Porpoise as Lieutenant, beingappointed Commander of that ship in 1807, and the Lady Nelson was thenplaced in charge of Lieutenant William George Carlile Kent, whosubsequently superseded Symons as Commander of the Porpoise by the ordersof Governor Bligh. In 1807 and 1808 the little ship's Commanders appear to have oftenchanged, and her fortunes, like those of her officers, experienced a waveof uncertainty during the stormy period which marked the rule of GovernorBligh. Eventually by his orders the Lady Nelson was dismantled. It iswell-known that Governor Bligh was deposed and kept a prisoner in his ownhouse for twelve months by the officers of the New South Wales Corps. During this time the colony was governed by three officers, Johnston, Foveaux, and Paterson. On the arrival of Major-General Macquarie from England to take over thereins of Government, he caused inquiries to be made concerning the use ofthe brig, to which Colonel Foveaux replied on January 10th, 1810, "I havethe honour to inform your Excellency that the Lady Nelson brig was sentfrom England seven or eight years since by the Admiralty as an armedtender to the ship of war on this station. On the departure of H. M. S. Porpoise in March last, Commodore Bligh ordered her to be dismantled andlaid up in ordinary in the King's Yard. The Commodore gave her in chargeof Mr. Thomas Moore, the master builder, with directions to hand her overto Colonel Paterson should he require her for the service of the colony. Colonel Paterson applied for her immediately after the Porpoise sailedhence, manned her with hired seamen, and she has since continued in theemployment of the Government for the use of these settlements. " From this time forward we hear of Governor Macquarie frequently takingexcursions in the Lady Nelson, and in October 1811, he, with Mrs. Macquarie, proceeded in her to Van Diemen's Land, where he made anextensive tour of inspection of the settlements, and every Governor inturn seems to have used the brig for work of this character. It is not easy to trace, subsequently, the doings of the Lady Nelson, andpresumably for a year or two she lay dismantled in Sydney Harbour, andduring that period is described as "nothing more or less than a CoalHulk. " By the Governor's orders, however, in 1819, when Captain Phillip Kingleft Sydney in the Mermaid to explore Torres Strait and the north coastof Australia, the Lady Nelson was again made smart and trim andaccompanied the Mermaid as far as Port Macquarie. Lieutenant Oxley, R. N. , sailed in the Lady Nelson, and after making a survey of the shores of theport he returned in her to Port Jackson. Until she set forth on her last voyage, the Lady Nelson continued to plybetween the settlements, carrying stores to them from the capital, andbringing the settlers' grain and other produce to Sydney for sale, and asthe expansion of the colony proceeded, her sphere of usefulness naturallybecame greatly enlarged. CHAPTER 13. THE LADY NELSON ACCOMPANIES H. M. S. TAMAR TO MELVILLE ISLAND. In the year 1824, the British Government determined to form a settlementon the north coast of Australia in the vicinity of Melville Island, withthe object of opening up intercourse between that district and the Malaycoast. On account of the nearness of the place to Timor, it was believedthat some of the trade of the East Indies would be attracted to itsshores. For some time previously small vessels from New South Wales hadtraded regularly with certain islands of the Indian Archipelago chieflyin pearls, tortoise-shell and beche-de-mer. In order to carry out the intentions of the Government, Captain JamesGordon Bremer left England in H. M. S. Tamar on February 27th, 1824, forSydney, where the establishment was to be raised. The Tamar brought anumber of marines who were to form part of the garrison for the proposedsettlement. Meanwhile, the authorities at Sydney had chartered the shipCountess of Harcourt, Captain Bunn, in which to convey the settlers aswell as a detachment of officers and men, then quartered in the colony, with their wives to Melville Island. After taking supplies on board, thefollowing were embarked in the Countess of Harcourt, Captain Barlow, Lieutenant Everard, and twenty-four non-commissioned officers and men, all of the Buffs. Dr. Turner, Royal Artillery; Mr. George Miller, Commissariat Department; Mr. Wilson and Mr. George Tollemache, Storekeepers. In all the Countess of Harcourt carried 110 men, 40 women, and 25 children. The colonial brig Lady Nelson, in command of Captain Johns, also receivedorders to accompany the expedition. She had returned from a voyage toMoreton Bay on August 12th, and, heavily laden with passengers, soldiers, and stores, sailed with the Tamar and the Countess of Harcourt on August24th, 1824. The Lady Nelson then left Sydney for the last time. In reading Captain J. Gordon Bremer's logbook, we are reminded of asimilar voyage, taken by the Lady Nelson along this coast twenty-twoyears before, in company with H. M. S. Investigator. Captain Bremer had thesame trouble with the brig as Captain Flinders then experienced, as hewas continually forced to wait for the Lady Nelson. In the Captain's logoften appear the entries "took the Lady Nelson in tow, " and "cast off theLady Nelson, " showing that the little brig was unable to keep up with thelarger vessels. The fleet sailed between the Great Barrier Reef and themainland, at times only a narrow strip of coral separating it from thebreakers, which rolled against the outer side of the reef. At other timesit was impossible to see across the great breadth of the coral barrier. On the 28th of August, Mount Warning was passed and the ships skirtedMoreton Island in remarkably fine weather, which by the 1st of Septemberturned very hot. The vessels continued to sail near the coast, andsteered between two rocks called Peak* (* Now Perforated Island. ) andFlat Island and the main. During the forenoon more rocky islands wereobserved, with a few trees growing on the very top--their outline havingthe appearance of a cock's comb. It was noticed that the water here wasstreaked for many miles with a brown scum supposed to be fish-spawn. Atevening one of the Cumberland Islands, named Pure Island, provided ananchorage for the three ships; possibly the Lady Nelson alone had been inthese waters previously, and it will be remembered, that it washereabouts she had parted with the Investigator in the expedition of1802. On September 6th, Cape Grafton was made, and as the ships coastedthe land, the smoke of the native fires were seen on shore. At 9 o'clockon the 7th the ships passed Snapper Island and then Cape Tribulation, andat 6 P. M. Anchored near Turtle Reef opposite to the mouth of EndeavourRiver. * (* Cooktown. ) At 10 o'clock next morning Cape Flattery came intosight. Some of the ships' company landed on one of the Turtle Islands, further northwards, to examine it, and it was found to be formed of coraland shells. This night, "a fine moonlight night, " the sailors spent infishing, and several fish, marked with beautiful colours, were caught. Noble Rock or Island was seen next day, when the vessels came to ananchorage close to an island of the Howick Group. At evening, a verylarge native fire, a mile in extent, was seen on the mainland. OnSaturday, September 11th, Cape Melville and the cluster of islands knownas Flinders Group was passed. At this time sand banks surrounded theships on all sides. They anchored in 14 degrees south latitude and nextday ran through the islands known as Saxe Coburgs Range, and came toabout 6 o'clock off Cape Direction. A fine run made by the vessels on the13th, left Forbes and Sunday Islands behind, and they were brought to atnight under one of the Bird Islands. At 4 o'clock on the 14th theCommander first saw Cape York, and at 5 o'clock anchored under MountAdolphus. Some of the company went on shore in the evening, but met noneof the natives, though traces of their visits were observed. Next day at9 o'clock, Wednesday and Thursday Islands as well as numerous otherislands lying to the north-east of the Gulf of Carpentaria were passed. At 2 o'clock on September 17th, the west head of the Gulf of Carpentariawas seen; on the 19th the vessels reached Croker's Island, and anchoredon the 20th at Port Essington. The Captain's log contains this entry onthat day: "Took possession of the north coast of New Holland; andLieutenant Roe buried a bottle containing a copy of the form of takingpossession--and several coins of His Majesty--on a low sandy pointbearing east from the ship which was named Point Record. "* (* Captain'slog, H. M. S. Tamar, Public Record Office. ) The following account of the proceedings was published in the SydneyGazette:-- "The north coast of New Holland, or Australia, contained between themeridian of 129 and 135 degrees East of Greenwich with all the bays, rivers, harbours, creeks, therein and all the islands laying off weretaken possession of in the name and right of His most Excellent Majesty, George the IV, King of Great Britain and Ireland, and His Majesty'scolours hoisted at Port Essington, on 20th September, 1824, and atMelville and Bathurst Islands on 26th September, 1824, by James JohnGordon Bremer, Commander of the most Honourable Military order of theBath, Captain of H. M. S. Tamar and Commanding Officer of His Majesty'sForces employed on the said coast. "His Majesty's colonial brig, Lady Nelson, and the British ship Countessof Harcourt in company. "PORT COCKBURN, "MELVILLE ISLAND, "AUSTRALIA, "September 26th, 1824. " During the stay of the ships at Port Essington, Captain Bremer sent boatsin every direction to search for fresh water, knowing that, unless itwere found, it would be impossible for the people to remain therepermanently. On the 21st of September at daylight four boats went toexamine the eastern shores. The soil on this side proved to be sandy andinterspersed with red sandstone rock, which, it was thought, containedparticles of iron. The trees were not very tall, and resembled those ofNew South Wales. But no water was found. Next day the boats wentwestward, and the search was still unsuccessful. On this side the countrywas superior to that to the eastward; it was more open, and the treeswere of magnificent height. To discover water now became the chief object of everybody. On PointRecord, a water-hole fenced round with bamboos was at last found. In itwas some thick water, which had a brackish taste, and it was thought thatthis water-hole was the work of Malays, and not of the Australianaborigines, of whom traces were observed in various places, though, asyet, none had been seen. Captain Bremer described Port Essington as being"one of the most noble and beautiful pieces of water that can beimagined, having a moderate depth and a capability of containing a wholenavy in perfect security. " The lack of fresh water was its drawback. * (*It turned out afterwards that there was plenty of water and of goodquality, but unfortunately it was not then discovered. ) As the season wasfar advanced, the Commander decided to leave this beautiful bay and sailto Apsley Strait, which divides Melville and Bathurst Islands. On the 23rd the ships left Port Essington, and after making Cape VanDiemen of the old charts entered the strait and on the 26th anchored offLuxmore Head. On this day Captain Bremer went on shore and took formalpossession of Melville and Bathurst Islands on behalf of Great Britain. On the 30th, Captain Bremer discovered a running stream on MelvilleIsland in a cove to the southward of the ships. The water fortunately wasfresh. The south-east point of the cove was pleasantly situated on aslight rise, and was tolerably clear of timber and suitable for asettlement. Captain Bremer therefore took the ships into it, and he gavethe cove the name of King's Cove, in honour of its discoverer, CaptainPhillip Parker King. The point chosen as the settlement was called Point Barlow, after CaptainBarlow; and the part of the strait between Harris Island and Luxmore Headwhere the ships anchored was named Point Cockburn, after Sir GeorgeCockburn, one of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. The harbourwas not equal to Port Essington, as the entrance was intricate, and adangerous shoal, rendered perilous by the rapid tides, extended somemiles distant from the land. It was formed by the shores of BathurstIsland, as well as of Melville Island. To the northernmost point ofBathurst Island Captain Bremer gave the name of Cape Brace. On October 1st, parties were landed on Point Barlow to clear the groundand to lay the foundation of a fort, for it was believed that the Malays, who fished annually in these waters, would soon come in great numbers, and hostility was also expected from the aborigines. A fort, therefore, was constructed so as to command the whole anchorage, and when finishedit was possible to fire a shot from it on to Bathurst Island. In itsbuilding, timber of great solidity was used. On it were mounted two9-pounder guns and four 18-pounder carronades, with a 12-pounder boatgun, which could be shifted as the occasion required. These were supplied byH. M. S. Tamar. The boat-gun was fitted so that it could be placed on board the LadyNelson, whenever it should be necessary to detach her to the neighbouringislands. Round the fort there were soon built comfortable cottages forthe settlers, and, when completed, they gave the place the air of avillage. The fort was rectangular, and within the square were erectedbarracks for the soldiers, and houses, the frames of which had beenbrought from New South Wales. The climate was found to be "one of thebest between the tropics, " particularly at dawn, "when, " says CaptainBremer, "nothing can be more delightful than this part of the twenty-fourhours. " In spite of many mangrove swamps that existed there, much of thesoil on Melville Island was excellent, and in it the plants brought inthe ships flourished luxuriantly; they included the orange, lemon, lime, and banana. Melons and pumpkins sprang up immediately, and maize was"upon ground" on the fourth day after it was sown. The native forestswere almost inexhaustible, producing most, if not all, the tropicalfruits and shrubs of the Eastern Islands, chief among them a sort ofcotton tree, a species of "lignum vitae, " and the bastard nutmeg. While Captain Bremer explored the country, the work at the settlement wascarried out without loss of time. On the 8th of October a pier, for thepurpose of landing provisions and guns, was begun, next a Commissariatstore; and by the 20th the pier, bastion, and sea face of the fort werecompleted. Captain Bremer writes, "I had the satisfaction of hoisting HisMajesty's colours under a royal salute from the guns mounted on FortDundas, which I named in honour of the noble Lord and the Head of theAdmiralty. " CHAPTER 14. THE LOSS OF THE LADY NELSON. On November 10th Captain Bremer, having carried out his duties inaccordance with the instructions that he had received from the Admiralty, took leave of the settlement. He handed over its charge to CaptainMaurice Barlow. The Tamar then dropped into the stream, being saluted by15 guns, which she returned. Two days afterwards she left Port Cockburnfor India in company with the Countess of Harcourt, bound for Mauritiusand England. The Lady Nelson remained behind at Port Cockburn, partly to act as aguardship and partly to bring to the settlement the needed stores andsupplies from the islands to the northwards. These islands, as well asCoepang, afforded fresh meat in the form of buffalo beef, and it provedan inestimable boon to many ships which traded in these waters. Freshprovisions being scarce at the settlement* (* See Major Campbell'sreport. ) Captain Barlow sent the Lady Nelson for a cargo of buffaloes. InFebruary 1825, the little ship set forth on her mission, from which shewas doomed never to return. As she left Port Cockburn her Commander waswarned to avoid an island called Baba, one of the Serwatti Islands, whichwas infested with pirates who were very daring and very cruel. It issupposed that the warning was unheeded, for there the little vessel mether end. The schooner Stedcombe, Captain Burns (or Barnes), from England, arrivedat Melville Island when anxiety was being felt there regarding the LadyNelson's fate. After her stores were landed, as scurvy was increasingamong the colonists, Captain Barlow chartered the vessel on behalf of theGovernment and despatched her to Timor for buffaloes: she was alsoinstructed to search for the missing Lady Nelson. Her captain remained atthe settlement, and the chief mate took charge of the schooner. TheStedcombe never returned, and later it was learned that she too had beencaptured by pirates, off Timor Laut, about sixty miles eastward of Baba, where the Lady Nelson had been taken. The Serwatti Islands form a chain which stretches from the east end ofTimor as far as Baba. When Lieutenant Kolff of the Dutch Navy visitedBaba in July 1825 the inhabitants were shy and deserted the village ofTepa on his landing. He was convinced that a crime had been committed, and learned that "some months previously an English brig manned by abouta dozen Europeans had anchored off Alata on the south-east coast and hadengaged in barter with the natives who were on board in great numbers, and who taking the opportunity of 5 men being on shore. .. Attacked andkilled the people on the brig as well as those in the boat when theyreturned. " Earl, who translated Kolff's journal, says that "the nativesreceived not the slightest reproof from Lieutenant Kolff for thisoutrage. " Fourteen years afterwards, when Captain Gordon Bremer was acting ascommandant at Port Essington, * (* Melville Island was abandoned in 1829for Port Essington. ) Captain Thomas Watson arrived there in the schoonerEssington, bearing the news that Mr. Volshawn, master of a small tradingvessel flying the Dutch flag, had seen an English sailor on the island ofTimor Laut when he visited it in February of the previous year. * (*Captain Watson's journal is preserved at the Admiralty. ) The Englishmanwas kept captive at a native village on the south-eastern side of theisland, and stated that he had belonged to the Stedcombe. Mr. Volshawnalso declared that he had seen there articles which had been taken fromthe Stedcombe. Captain Watson decided to try and rescue his countryman, and on March31st, 1839, when off Timor Laut he stood in for the island. The plan heproposed to adopt in order to carry out the rescue was to entice a chiefor Orang Kaire on board and hold him as a hostage until the Englishsailor was produced. As his ship came in shore three canoes under Dutchcolours put out to meet him with twelve to thirteen men in each. Inanswer to Captain Watson's inquiries whether there was a white man on theisland some of the natives replied, "Certo; Engrise; Louron, " which wastranslated as meaning that there was an Englishman at Louron. * (*Lourang. ) Other canoes came alongside the Essington, whose crew had beenput under arms, and an Orang Kaire was allowed to come on board. CaptainWatson writes: "Now was the time for carrying my plans into effect. .. AndI told the Orang Kaire if he would bring him (the captive) to me I wouldgive him a quantity of trade which was shown him. " To this the chiefagreed. But as no great faith was placed in his assertion, Watson thentold him that he must send his canoes and fetch the Englishman, when hewould receive his reward, but if they did not bring his prisoner he wouldbe hung from the yard-arm, and that "we should fire our great guns on thevillage. " The ship was now surrounded by canoes and no one was allowed tocome on board excepting a very friendly chief. This man immediatelypulled from his bosom a small basket of papers which were found toconsist of loose scraps written by the crew of the Charles Eaton. * (* TheCharles Eaton was wrecked in Torres Strait in 1834. ) Beside these thebasket contained a letter written by Lieutenant Owen Stanley, of H. M. S. Britomart, stating that he had called here and had examined and copiedthe scraps of paper. As night was coming on the canoes were dismissed andall the natives sent away excepting the Orang Kaire who had firstarrived. The other chief was anxious to remain on board with him, but Mr. Watson would not allow him to do so. After pacing the deck, the chief made a resolute attempt to follow hiscompanions, tearing off the few garments which he was wearing andendeavouring to jump into the water. Early on April 1st the Essington wasbrought abreast of Louron. Not a canoe hove in sight until nine o'clock, when two belonging to the prisoner came alongside and the crews askedthat he might be allowed to go on shore. This request Captain Watsonrefused, and shortly afterwards the friendly Orang, who again visited theship, promised to deliver up the Englishman. At 2. 30 P. M. Two canoes wereobserved approaching the Essington, in one of which was the captive. Hewas dressed as a native, and when they drew close to the ship it was seenthat he was in a most miserable condition. He was of fair complexion andhis hair, which had been allowed to grow long, was "triced up in nativecustom with a comb made of bamboo, " and being of a light yellow colour"it resembled the finest silk. " His only garments were a sort ofwaistcoat without sleeves and a blue and white dungaree girdle round hisloins. He looked delicate, and his face wore a woebegone expression, which apparently was habitual, while his body was covered with numberlessscars and sores. The sinews of his knee-joints were very contracted, because, he told Captain Watson, he had to sit fishing so long in oneposition in the hot sun so that he was almost unable to walk. His earshad been perforated after the custom of the natives, and in the lobe ofeach he wore a piece of bamboo at least an inch in diameter. As was to be expected, from having been fourteen years on the island, hehad almost forgotten his native language and with difficulty could makehimself intelligible. He was, however, able to give the following accountof his life there. The Stedcombe, on leaving Melville Island, had gone toTimor Laut for live stock and had moored off Louron. Mr. Bastell, themate in charge, then proceeded on shore with the crew, leaving on boardthe steward, a boy named John Edwards, and himself. As Mr. Bastell andthe crew did not return he (Forbes) looked through the glass and thenbeheld their bodies stretched out on the beach--the heads severed fromeach. As a canoe was perceived approaching the ship, he proposed to thesteward and to John Edwards that they should arm: but the former paid noattention to him. He then proposed that he and John Edwards should punchone of the bolts out of the cable and liberate the ship. They were in theact of doing this when the natives, among whom was the Orang Kaire whomWatson had detained, boarded the Stedcombe. The unfortunate steward waskilled on the spot, and the two boys, expecting to share his fate, betookthemselves to the rigging and were only induced to descend upon repeatedpromises that they would not be injured. Strange to say, the natives kepttheir promises, and after plundering the ship they burnt her. The boyswere kept in the capacity of ordinary slaves until about four yearsbefore the coming of the Essington, when Edwards died, and since thattime Forbes had been unable to move in consequence of the stiffness inhis legs. The scars were caused by the natives when he incurred theirdispleasure. One of their common modes of punishment was to take hotembers from the fire and place them on some part of his body until it wasseverely burned. When asked how he was treated generally, he replied"Trada Bergouse, " meaning very badly. Some few natives, he said, werekind to him, among them the chief who had produced the papers. Speakingof the chief of Louron, he remarked, "Louron cuts me down to the ground"which was thought to imply that he flogged him and knocked him down. Whenever a vessel hove in sight the chief would have him bound hand andfoot and keep him so, as long as the vessel remained at the island. Thisexplains why Lieutenant Stanley did not see him when he called in H. M. S. Britomart. Some of the crew of the Charles Eaton had come there andwished him to leave with them, but permission was refused. Lastly aChinese trader had wished to purchase him and had offered several "gownpieces" as the price, but this offer too was declined. When Kolff calledwith two Dutch men-of-war, he and his men would have nothing to do withhim, nor would they assist him to escape. Forbes gave accounts of many ships having been cut off by these piratesbut only two clear accounts--the one of a China junk which they boarded, murdered and plundered the crew, and eventually burnt, and the other aschooner manned with black men, which they plundered afterwardsliberating the men. He also said that a whaler had been cast away sevenmoons ago, and that two whale-boats and one jolly-boat with only fivepeople in all arrived at Timor Laut. This story, however, was confusedand incoherent. When Captain Bremer arrived at Sydney in H. M. S. Alligator about the sametime as the Essington, he had Forbes placed in the hospital there andwrote to the Admiralty asking for inquiries to be made about hisrelatives and to inform them of his existence. In his despatch CaptainBremer remarked that even Forbes's features seemed to have "assimilatedthemselves" to those of the islanders. The kindly chief was afterwards rewarded, as was Captain Watson, by theAdmiralty. The Orang Kaire of Louron seems to have escaped scot free, having left the Essington as Forbes was being brought on board. Forbesafterwards retired to Williamstown, Victoria, where he spent the rest ofhis life as a fisherman, and it is said that he never quite recoveredfrom the effects of his harsh bondage. The last news of the Lady Nelson was brought to Sydney some time afterher capture by a ship called the Faith, which reported that the hull ofthe Lady Nelson was still to be seen with her name painted on the sternat the island of Baba. It was an unworthy end to a very gallant ship, but the record of theuseful work that she accomplished survives and will have its place inevery history of Australia. APPENDIX. H. M. S. BUFFALO: SHIP'S MUSTER, 1801 TO 1805. No separate muster of the ship's company of the Lady Nelson can be foundamong the Public Records, but during the period that she was attached toH. M. S. Buffalo in New South Wales the names of her crew and of thesupernumeraries sailing in her were inscribed in the books of that ship, four pages from which are here reproduced. The first three of these givethe names of the officers and seamen who composed the complement of theLady Nelson in 1801, 1803 and 1804. The fourth page is an extract fromthe Buffalo's own muster-roll when she conveyed the first Norfolk Islandsettlers to Port Dalrymple in 1805, the Government having decided tobreak up their settlement. Among the passengers on board the Buffalo wereMrs. Elizabeth Paterson the wife of the Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. Williams, Acting Surveyor-General, and Ann Williams, possibly a relativeof his. With the Norfolk Island settlers was William Lee, to whom thisvolume is dedicated, then a lad ten years of age, who afterwards becameone of the first pioneers in the Bathurst district. The story of the Buffalo's arrival at Port Dalrymple is told in a letterwritten to Earl Camden by Colonel Paterson from Yorktown as follows:-- "On the 4th April H. M. S. Buffalo arrived from Port Jackson by whichconveyance I received a proportion of such stores and provisions as couldbe spared, 120 ewes, 2 rams, 6 cows, 2 bulls, 1 mare, and 1 horse: 50prisoners were also sent. "Five settlers arrived at the same time from Norfolk Island with theActing Surveyor-General to measure out the allotments necessary for them. Soon after their arrival I accompanied them to different situations asfar as Supply River, which is about 10 miles from Headquarters. Afterexamining the ground they chose their allotments on the banks of a run, 2miles to the south-east of this place. Mr. Riley, ActingDeputy-Commissary, recommended also to have the advantages of freesettlers, chose his ground also in this situation. They proceeded toclear the ground and to cultivate. Everyone exerted themselves as much aspossible, but those who cultivated on the sides of the hills weredeceived in their choice and too much disappointed in the firstappearance of their crops, the low ground being also found subject totemporary floods. AS THEY WERE THE FIRST SETTLERS, I have recommendedthem to his Excellency, as a remuneration of their losses, to have grantsof land on the north side of the main river Tamar extending up the riverSouth Esk. My motive for recommending this situation is that they cannotfail in success as it is a part of the country the colony must look tofor grain. The first twelve months being now past I have every reason tobelieve the greatest of our difficulties have been surmounted. .. It is notfor me to presume to be acquainted with the particular causes whichrendered it necessary this colony should be established, but if itsdesirable situation in the important passage of Bass Streights was one ofthe objects, it appears to me necessary that a large establishment shouldever remain here while the interests of Great Britain are to be effectedin this part of the world, and I can assure your Lordship I have seen nocountry yet that offers such inducements to be retained. * I have, etc. , W. PATERSON. " (* The remaining Norfolk Island Settlers were later on removed toTasmania in different ships, the Lady Nelson conveying many of them totheir new home. Historical Records of New South Wales volume 5 page 732. ) INDEX. Abbott, Captain E. Abercrombie, Charles. Albany Otway, Cape. Albatross Islands. Albion, the. Alligator, H. M. S. Aluta. Amsterdam, Island of. Anderson, Ensign. Anna, Josepha. Ann's Island. Ann's Mountain. Anson, H. M. S. Apsley Strait. Arthur's Seat. Ash Island. Baba Island. Baba. Babel Islands, see Cat Islands. Baie du Nord. Baillie, Ensign. Ballinjoy. Ball's Pyramid. Banks, Cape. Banks, Sir Joseph. Barbin Reach. Barlow, Captain Maurice. Barnes, Farmer. Barrallier, Ensign. His valuable charts. Shoots a hawk. A cockatoo. Suffers from sea-sickness. Surveys harbour and river. Barren, Cape. Barren Island. Barren Jowie. Barren's Pool. Barr Reach. Bass, Dr. George. Discovers Bass Strait. Circumnavigates Tasmania. Bass Strait. Bastell. Bathurst Islands. Baudin, Commodore. In Encounter Bay. His Journals. Writes to Governor King. Bauer, F. Bayley, Ensign. Bay of Islands. Bay of Seals. Bay of Shoals. Bee, The. Belloe's Reach. Bennilong's Point. Betsy, The. Big Stuck, the. Bird Island. Bligh, Governor. Black, Captain. Bond, Mr. Boongaree. Boswell, Mr. Botany Bay. Bowen, Lieutenant John. His Colony at Risdon. Sent to Hobart. Bowen, Mr. Finds a canoe. His adventures among Bush Natives. Captures seals. Bower. Bow Reach. Boxhead. Boyd. Brabyn, Mr. Brace, Cape. Bradley's Head. Branch Reach. Brandt, Dr. Breaksea Spit. Bremer, Captain James Gordon. Leaves England in the Tamar. His log-book. At Port Essington. Arrives at Sydney. Brett, Cape. Bridgewater, Cape. Britannia. Britannia's Beach. Britomart, H. M. S. Broad Sound. Broken Bay. Brothers, the. Brown, Robert. Bruce, George. Brunswick, the. Budgeree Dick. Buffalo, H. M. S. Bungaree. Bunker, Captain Ebor. Bunn, Captain. Burns, Captain. Bustard Bay. Byers, Captain. Cabra. Calcutta, H. M. S. Caley, Mr. Campbell, Captain. Camp Cove. Canberra. Cape of Good Hope. Capricorn, Cape. Caroline, the. Carpentaria, Gulf of. Cascade. Cataract River. Cat Islands. Cavanagh, James. Cavalli Bay. Cavalli Island. Cavill's Island. Churchill, John. Churchill's Island. Clark, Mark. Clark's Island. Coal Island. Coal River, see Hunter's River. Cockburn, Sir George. Coepang. Coggeshall. Collier's Point. Collins, Colonel. Collins, William. Colnett, Captain. Commander, the. Commodore, the. Contest, the. Cook. Cornwallis, the. Cornwallis Farm. Countess of Harcourt, the. Courtoys, George. Crescent Reach. Croker's Island. Crownhead. Cumberland Islands. Cumberland, the. Cummings, Mr. Curtis, Admiral Sir Roger. Curtoys, Commander George. Cynthia. D'Acunha, Tristan. Danger, Cape. Deadman's Dock. Deptford. Derwent, the (river). Devil's Tower Island. Diana Bay. Diana, the. Direction, Cape. Double Island Point. Double Peak. Downs. Dragon Island, see Laurence's Island. Dromedary, Cape. Druce, J. Duke of Portland, the. Durham, Captain. Earl Cornwallis, the. Earl, Mr. East Cove. East Indies. Eastern Islands. Eaton, Charles. Eddystone Point. Edwards, John. Edwin, the. Elephant Bay. Elephant Rock. Elizabeth's Cove. Elliott, Mount. Encounter Bay. Endeavour, the. Endeavour River. Enterprise of Bordeaux. Essington, the. Estramina, the. Euranabie. Evans, Mr. Everard, Lieutenant. Faceing Island. Faith, the. Falmouth. Farewell, Cape. Ferret, the. Fiji. Five Islands. Flat Island. Flattery, Cape. Flinders, Captain Matthew. His chart. Arrives at Port Jackson. Reaches Sandy Cape. Names Port Bowen. Names Mount Westall. Loses his anchor. Separates from Murray. Meets Baudin in Encounter Bay. Circumnavigates Tasmania. Flinders' Island. Flint and Steel Cove. Fly, the. Forbes Island. Forbes, Mr. Fort Dundas. Fourcroy Island, see Lady Julia Island. Foveaux, Major. Fowler, Lieutenant. France, Isle of. Francis, the. Frederick Henry Bay. Freshwater Bay. Fresh Water River. Freycinet, Louis de. Friars, the. Furneaux, Captain. Furneaux Islands. Gambier's Mountain. Garden Island. Garlies, Viscount. George, the. George IV, King. Giant Kingfisher, the. Gigantic Hills. Glass House Bay. Glatton, the. Glennie, George. Glennie's Islands. Gore, Mount. Governor Hunter, the. Governor King's Bay. Governor King's Island. Grafton, Cape. Grand Capuchin Island, see also Flinders' Island. Grant, Captain James. Grant, Dr. J. R. Grant, Lieutenant James. Appointed to Lady Nelson. At Portsmouth. Meets Dr. J. R. Grant. His journal. Autograph. Letter to Governor King. Describes Churchill's Island. Meets John Loft. And natives. Resignation. Character. Receives a pension. Death. Grant's Point. Gravesend. Great Barrier Reef. Great Islands, see Flinders' Islands. Green Cape. Greenhills. Green Island. Gull Island. Hacking, Mr. Halfway House, The. Hamelin, Captain. Harbinger Rock. Harbinger, the. Harrington, the. Harris, Dr. Harris Island. Hawke, the. Hawkesbury River. Hayes, Mr. Haycock Rock, West. Heads, the. Hervey Bay. Hillsborough, Cape. Hill View. Hobart. Hole in the Wall, the. Honduras, the. Hope, the. Hope Point. Horn, Cape. Houston, Captain. Howe, Cape. Howick Group. How's Islands. Hummocky Island. Hunson's Bay. Hunter River. Hunter's Island. Hussar. Imperieuse, H. M. S. Indian Archipelago. Indian Head. Integrity, the. Investigator, the. With the Lady Nelson. Fires her guns. Runs aground. James, the. Jervis Bay. Johns, Captain. Johnston, John. Joseph Druce, the. Judgment Rock. Kable & Underwood, Messrs. Kable, Henry. Kent, Captain William George Carlile. Kent Group. Kent's Bay. Kent's Burn. Keppel Bay. Keppel, Cape. Keppel Island. King, Captain Phillip Parker. King, Elizabeth. King George's Sound. King, Governor. Letters to Grant. To Banks. To Collins. Instructions to Grant. Letters from Grant. From Baudin. From Collins. Appoints John Murray Commander of the Lady Nelson. Confirms appointment of Symons. Instructions to Murray. Consulted by Captain Flinders. Charters Albion Whaler. Arranges for settlement at Newcastle. King Island. King of Spain. King's Cove. Kingstown. King's Yard, the. Knight, Mr. Knuckle Point. Kolff, Lieutenant. Labilliere, F. P. Lacy, Mr. Lady Julia Island. Lady Nelson, the. First vessel to sail through Bass Strait. Important part in the discovery of Australia. Charts the coastline of Victoria. Her logbooks. Memorable voyages. Description. Nicknamed "His Majesty's Tinderbox. "at Portsmouth. Leaves England. Fired on by the Hussar. Anchors at St. Iago. At the Cape of Good Hope. Falls in with whales. At Sydney. At Jervis Bay. Meets the Cornwallis. Murray succeeds Grant as Commander. Voyage to Norfolk Island. In Diana Bay. At Kent's Group. At Port Phillip. Sails to the Hawkesbury. In difficulties. With the Investigator. At Sandy Cape. Explores coral reefs. Loses an anchor. Commanded by George Courtoys. In Sydney Cove. Commanded by James Symons. Repairs in Twofold Bay. Last voyage from Sydney. Her end. Lady Nelson Reef. Lady Nelson's Point. Lady Nelson's Port. Lagoon Reach. Las Palmas. Launceston. Lawrence's Islands. Lawson, Ensign. Lay Island Reach. Le Corre, Captain. Lewin, Cape. Lewin, Mr. Linnaeus. Lion's Mount. Lion's Rump. Liptrap, Cape. Liptrap, John. Loft, John. Long Island. Long Reach. Long Reef. Lookout Bay. Lord Howe Island. Lord, Simeon. Louron. Lover's Leap Reach. Low Island. Luck, Andrew. Luxmore Head. Mackellar, Lieutenant. Maclean, Captain. M'Millan's Burn. Macquarie, Major-General. Macquarie, Mrs. Madeira. Malay. Mangrove Point. Mangrove Reach. Maoris, the. Marcia, the. Marengo, Cape, see Albany Otway. Margaret Island. Margaret, the. Maria Isle. Maria Van Diemen, Cape, see North-West Cape. Marsden, Reverend Samuel. Martha, the. Mary, Poor. Matuapo. Mauritius. Melbourne. Melville Island. Melville, Cape. Menzies, Lieutenant. Mermaid, the. Mertho, Captain. Mid Hummock. Mileham, Mr. Milkmaid Reach. Miller, George. Millet Island Reach. Missing, John. Moncur, Captain. Moncur's Island. Montaigne, Cape. Montesquieu, Cape, see Bridgewater, Cape. Moore, Thomas. Moreton Bay. Moreton Island. Moss, Isaac. Mount Albany. Mount Dromedary. Mount Egerton. Mountgarrett, Mr. Mount Pitt. Mount Warning. Mowpath. Mullet Island. Mullet Island Reach. Murray, Lieutenant John. Appointed Commander of the Lady Nelson. Receives instructions from Governor King. His charts. First sight of Port Phillip. Enters the Port. His Log. Letter from R. B. Wood. Punishes the crew for drunkenness. For falling asleep on watch. Captures kangaroos. Shoots swans. Ducks. Catches swans. And natives. Names Elephant Bay. Port King. Maria Isle. Returns to Western Port. Sees a snake. Autograph. Superseded by George Curtoys. Murray's Passage. Nanbury. Nancy, the. Naturaliste, the. Nelson, Cape. Nepean Island. Nepean, Point, see Repear, Point. Nepean, Secretary. Neutral Bay. Newcastle. New Holland. New South Wales Corps. New Zealand. Nobby's, the, see Coal Island. Noble Rock. Norfolk Islands. Norfolk, the. North Cape. Northern Island. North Esk. North Head. North Head Point. North Point Island. Northumberland, Cape of. Northumberland Islands. North-West Cape. Ocean, the. One Tree Reach. Orang Kaire. Otaheitan. Otway, William Albany, R. N. Outer Cove. Outermost Rock. Oxley, Lieutenant. Oyster Bay. Oyster Island. Palmer, Mr. Pasture Plains. Paterson Cape. Paterson, Colonel. Discovers copper. Names Ann's Mountain. Elizabeth's Mountain. Patriarchs, the. Patton's Cape. Peak. Peak of Pines. Percy Islands. Percy, Lady Julia. Peron. Phillip Islands. Pier Head. Pigeon House. Pinch Gut Island. Pines, Hill of. Pine Island. Piper, Ensign. Pitt, Mount. Pittwater. Plate River. Point Barlow. Point Cockburn. Point Danger. Point Hicks. Point How. Point Palmer. Point Paterson. Point Pocock. Point Rapid. Point Record. Point Schanck. Point Stephens. Point Upright. Porpoise, H. M. S. Port Number 2. Portland Bay. Portland, Duke of. Portland Reach. Port Aitkin. Port Bowen. Port Cockburn. Port Curtis. Port Dalrymple. Port du Debut. Port Essington. Port Hicks. Port Jackson. Port Jackson Heads. Port King. Portland Head. Port Macquarie. Port Phillip. Port Praya. Portsmouth. Port Stephens. Power, Mr. Preservation Island. Pugh's Reach. Pure Island. Putland, Lieutenant. Pyramid, the. Rabbit Island. Raby, Mr. Ralphes Bay. Ram Head. Ramsgate. Raven, the. Reid, Mr. Reid's mistake. Repear, Point. Resource, the. Rhodes, Captain. Richelieu, Cape. Rio de Janeiro. Risdon. Risdon Cove. Risdon's Island. Robbins, Lieutenant. Roberts, John. Rocky Island. Rodondo Island. Rodondo Rock. Roe, Lieutenant. Rose Bay. Rothesay Hills. Ruff Trees. Rugged, Mount. Rusden. Rushford, Mr. Rushworth, Mr. Sackville Reach. St. Iago. St. Servan. Salt Water Lagoon. Sampson's Farm. Sandy Cape. Sandy Point. Saxe Coburgs Range. Schanck, Cape. Schanck, Captain John, R. N. Shanck Forest. Schanck, Mrs. Sea Elephant Bay. Seal Bay. Seal Islands. Seal Reef. Seal Rocks. Sea Lyon Island. Sentry Box Reach. Serwatti Islands. Settlement, the. Seven Reaches. Shag Rock. Shark Island. Shoal Water Bay. Shot Snake Reach. Shirly, Thos. Simon's Bay. Sir Roger Curtis's Island. Sir William Grant's Cape. Sisters Islands. Smoaky Cape. Snapper Island. Snug Cove. Solicitor, Cape, see Montaigne Cape. Solitary Islands. Sophia, the. South Cape. South Esk. South Head. South Hogan's Group. Sow and Pigs. Spectacle Reach. Spithead. Stack Rocks. Stainforth's Cove. Stanley, Lieutenant Owen. Stedcombe, the. Stoney Head. Stoney Peak. Storehouse Islands. Storm Bay Passage. Strong Tide Passage. Suffrein, Cape, see Patton's Cape. Sugar Loaf Hill. Sugar Loaf Island. Sullivan's Cove. Sunday Islands. Supply, H. M. S. Surabaja. Surprise, the, see Diana, the. Swaine and Campbell, Messrs. Swan Isles. Swan Point. Swan Pond. Sydney. Sydney Bay. Sydney Cove. Sydney Harbour. Symons, Lieutenant James. Succeeds Curtoys. Sails to Port Dalrymple. His log. Sent to Jervis Bay. Leaves for Sydney with Governor King. His autograph. Table Bay. Table Hill. Tamar, H. M. S. Tamar River. Tasmania. Tellicherry. Tepa. Thames, River. Thirsty Sound. Thompson, Captain. Thracian, the. Three Hummock Island. Three Kings Island. Timor. Timor, Island of. Timor Laut. Tippahee. Titteranee, Island of. Tollemache, George. Tookee. Torres Strait. Tortoise Point. Tourville Bay, see Portland Bay. Townsend, Cape. Tozer, Mr. William. Trial, the. Tribulation, Cape. Tucker, John. Tunitico. Turnbull, Captain. Turner, Dr. Turtle Islands. Twentyday Island. Twofold Bay. Upper Head. Upper Island. Underwood, Mr. Union, the. Vancouver's Track. Van Diemen, Cape. Van Diemen's Land, see also Tasmania. Victoria. Volshawn, Mr. Wangaroa. Warning, Mount. Warren, Robert. Waterhouse Island. Watering Island. Watering Place. Watson, Captain Thos. Wednesday and Thursday Islands. Wellesley, the. Westall, Mr. West Cove. Western Arms, the. Western Port. West India Fleet. West Indies. Whypopoo. Wide Bay. Wight, Captain. Wight's Land. Williams, Mr. Williamstown. Willis, Henry. Wilson, Mr. Wilson's Promontory. Wiwiki, Cape, see Point Pocock. Wolsey, Jeremiah. Wongaroa Islands. Wood, R. B. Woodriff, Captain. Yacaaba, see Port Stephens. Yates, George. York, Cape. Yorktown.