THE LAST JOURNALS

OF

DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH. 

CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OFHIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS, OBTAINED FROMHIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI

BY HORACE WALLER, F. R. G. S. , RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAMPTON. 

IN TWO VOLUMES. --VOL. II. [1869-1873]

WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 

LONDON:JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1874. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

 Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls. Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters. Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East. Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant hunter's superstition. Dugumbé. The Lualaba reaches the Manyuema. Sons of Moenékuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema customs. Illness. 

CHAPTER II. 

 Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbé's ravages. Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated. Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner. Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears of four river sources close together. Resumé of discoveries. Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr. Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters

CHAPTER III. 

 Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of comfort. " Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer. Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird. " The disease "Safura. "

CHAPTER IV. 

 Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials. Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings about Meréré. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goître. News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan. Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko. Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to eat a white one. " Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore and sick of blood. Approach Nyañgwé. Reaches the Lualaba

CHAPTER V. 

 The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises ink. Builds a new house at Nyañgwé on the bank of the Lualaba. Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market. Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomamé. Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress. Alarm, of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river. Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river. Livingstone becomes desponding

CHAPTER VI. 

 Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's. Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill. Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr. Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the Lusizé. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet. Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there. Departure for Unyanyembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game. Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness at reaching Unyanyembé

CHAPTER VII. 

 Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits. Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages. Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours. Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries. Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors. Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower

CHAPTER IX. 

 Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections. Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor. Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat. Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High mountains. Large Bay

CHAPTER X. 

 False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu. The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi. Arrives at Chituñkué's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne through the flooded country

CHAPTER XI. 

 Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations. Obliged to return to Chituñkué's. At the chiefs mercy. Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubwé. An ant raid. Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambezé. The River Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone

CHAPTER XII. 

 Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone. Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and memorial sign-posts left to denote spot

CHAPTER XIII. 

 They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chuma meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr. Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed. Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks

 ILLUSTRATIONS. 

 Full-page Illustrations. 

 1. EVENING. ILALA. 29TH APRIL, 1873 2. UGUHA HEAD-DRESSES 3. CHUMA AND SUSI. (From a Photograph by MAULL & Co. ) 4. MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS 5. PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOKO 6. A DANGEROUS PRIZE 7. FACSIMILE OF A PORTION OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL 8. THE MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WOMEN AT NYANGWE 9. THE MANYUEMA AMBUSH 10. "THE MAIN STREAM CAME UP TO SUSI'S MOUTH" 11. THE LAST MILES OF DR. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS 12. FISH EAGLE ON HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP 13. THE LAST ENTRY IN DR. LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNALS 14. TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY WAS PREPARED

 Smaller Illustrations. 

 1. LINES OF GREEN SCUM ON LAKE TANGANYIKA 2. MODE OF CATCHING ANTS 3. DR. LIVINGSTONE'S MOSQUITO CURTAIN 4. MATIPA AND HIS WIFE 5. AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED 6. KAWENDÉ SURGERY

 MAP OF CONJECTURAL GEOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM DR. LIVINGSTONE'S NOTES

CHAPTER I. 

 Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls. Beaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters. Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East. Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant hunter's superstition. Dugumbé. The Lualaba reaches the Manyuema. Sons of Moenékuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema customs. Illness. 

[The new year opened badly enough, and from letters he wrotesubsequently concerning the illness which now attacked him, we gatherthat it left evils behind, from which he never quite recovered. Thefollowing entries were made after he regained sufficient strength, butwe see how short they necessarily were, and what labour it was to makethe jottings which relate to his progress towards the western shore ofLake Tanganyika. He was not able at any time during this seizure tocontinue the minute maps of the country in his pocket-books, which forthe first time fail here. ]

_1st January, 1869. _--I have been wet times without number, but thewetting of yesterday was once too often: I felt very ill, but fearingthat the Lofuko might flood, I resolved to cross it. Cold up to thewaist, which made me worse, but I went on for 2-1/2 hours E. 

_3rd January, 1869. _--I marched one hour, but found I was too ill to gofurther. Moving is always good in fever; now I had a pain in the chest, and rust of iron sputa: my lungs, my strongest part, were thus affected. We crossed a rill and built sheds, but I lost count of the days of theweek and month after this. Very ill all over. 

_About 7th January, 1869. _--Cannot walk: Pneumonia of right lung, and Icough all day and all night: sputa rust of iron and bloody: distressingweakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness, in groups of twos and threes: if I look at any piece of wood, the barkseems covered over with figures and faces of men, and they remain, though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lyingdead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless. When I think of my children and friends, the lines ring through my headperpetually:

 "I shall look into your faces, And listen to what you say, And be often very near you When you think I'm far away. "

Mohamad Bogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest. 

_8th and 9th January, 1869. _--Mohamad Bogharib offered to carry me. I amso weak I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now--a pretty butsteeply-undulating country. This is the first time in my life I havebeen carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sittingposture. No food except a little gruel. Great distress in coughing allnight long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on akitanda or frame, like a cot; carried eight hours one day. Then sleep ina deep ravine. Next day six hours, over volcanic tufa; very rough. Weseem near the brim of Tanganyika. Sixteen days of illness. May be 23rdof January; it is 5th of lunar month. Country very undulating; it isperpetually up and down. Soil red, and rich knolls of every size andform. Trees few. Erythrinas abound; so do elephants. Carried eight hoursyesterday to a chief's village. Small sharp thorns hurt the men's feet, and so does the roughness of the ground. Though there is so much slope, water does not run quickly off Marungu. A compact mountain-range flanksthe undulating country through which we passed, and may stop the waterflowing. Mohamad Bogharib is very kind to me in my extreme weakness; butcarriage is painful; head down and feet up alternates with feet down andhead up; jolted up and down and sideways--changing shoulders involves atoss from one side to the other of the kitanda. The sun is vertical, blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my faceand head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfullyfatiguing in my weakness. 

I had a severe relapse after a very hot day. Mohamad gave me medicines;one was a sharp purgative, the others intended for the cure of thecough. 

_14th February, 1869. _--Arrived at Tanganyika. Parra is the name of theland at the confluence of the River Lofuko: Syde bin Habib had two orthree large canoes at this place, our beads were nearly done, so I sentto Syde to say that all the Arabs had served me except himself. Thanibin Suellim by his letter was anxious to send a canoe as soon as Ireached the Lake, and the only service I wanted of Syde was to informThani, by one of his canoes, that I was here very ill, and if I did notget to Ujiji to get proper food and medicine I should die. Thani wouldsend a canoe as soon as he knew of my arrival I was sure: he repliedthat he too would serve me: and sent some flour and two fowls: he wouldcome in two days and see what he could do as to canoes. 

_15th February, 1869. _--The cough and chest pain diminished, and I feelthankful; my body is greatly emaciated. Syde came to-day, and isfavourable to sending me up to Ujiji. Thanks to the Great Father inHeaven. 

_24th February, 1869. _--We had remarkably little rain these two months. 

_25th February, 1869. _--I extracted twenty _Funyés_, an insect like amaggot, whose eggs had been inserted on my having been put into an oldhouse infested by them; as they enlarge they stir about and impart astinging sensation; if disturbed, the head is drawn in a little. When apoultice is put on they seem obliged to come out possibly from want ofair: they can be pressed out, but the large pimple in which they live ispainful; they were chiefly in my limbs. 

_26th February, 1869. _--Embark, and sleep at Katonga after seven hours'paddling. 

_27th February, 1869. _--Went 1-3/4 hour to Bondo or Thembwé to buy food. Shore very rough, like shores near Capréra, but here all is covered withvegetation. We were to cross to Kabogo, a large mass of mountains on theeastern side, but the wind was too high. 

_28th February, 1869. _--Syde sent food back to his slaves. 

_2nd March, 1869. _--Waves still high, so we got off only on _3rd_ at 1h. 30m. A. M. 6-1/2 hours, and came to M. Bogharib, who cooked bountifully. 

_6th March, 1869. _--5 P. M. Off to Toloka Bay--three hours; left at 6A. M. , and came, in four hours, to Uguha, which is on the west side ofTanganyika. 

_7th March, 1869. _--Left at 6 P. M. , and went on till two canoes ran onrocks in the way to Kasanga islet. Rounded a point of land, and made forKasanga with a storm in our teeth; fourteen hours in all. We werereceived by a young Arab Muscat, who dined us sumptuously at noon: thereare seventeen islets in the Kasanga group. 

_8th March, 1869. _--On Kasanga islet. Cochin-China fowls[1] and Muscovyducks appear, and plenty of a small milkless breed of goats. Tanganyikahas many deep bays running in four or five miles; they are choked upwith aquatic vegetation, through which canoes can scarcely be propelled. When the bay has a small rivulet at its head, the water in the bay isdecidedly brackish, though the rivulet be fresh, it made the Zanzibarpeople remark on the Lake water, "It is like that we get near thesea-shore--a little salt;" but as soon as we get out of the shut-in bayor lagoon into the Lake proper the water is quite sweet, and shows thata current flows through the middle of the Lake lengthways. 

Patience was never more needed than now: I am near Ujiji, but the slaveswho paddle are tired, and no wonder; they keep up a roaring song allthrough their work, night and day. I expect to get medicine, food, andmilk at Ujiji, but dawdle and do nothing. I have a good appetite, andsleep well; these are the favourable symptoms; but am dreadfully thin, bowels irregular, and I have no medicine. Sputa increases; hope to holdout to Ujiji. Cough worse. Hope to go to-morrow. 

_9th March, 1869. _--The Whydah birds have at present light breasts anddark necks. Zahor is the name of our young Arab host. 

_11th March, 1869. _--Go over to Kibizé islet, 1-1/2 hour from Kasanga. Great care is taken not to encounter foul weather; we go a little way, then wait for fair wind in crossing to east side of Lake. 

_12th March, 1869. _--People of Kibizé dress like those in Rua, withcloth made of the Muabé or wild-date leaves; the same is used inMadagascar for the "lamba. "[2] Their hair is collected up to the top ofthe head. 

From Kibizé islet to Kabogo River on east side of Lake ten hours; sleepthere. Syde slipped past us at night, but we made up to him in fourhours next morning. 

_13th March, 1869. _--At Rombolé; we sleep, then on. 

[At last he reached the great Arab settlement at Ujiji, on the easternshore of Tanganyika. It was his first visit, but he had arranged thatsupplies should be forwarded thither by caravans bound inland fromZanzibar. Most unfortunately his goods were made away with in alldirections--not only on this, but on several other occasions. Thedisappointment to a man shattered in health, and craving for letters andstores, must have been severe indeed. ]

_14th March, 1869. _--Go past Malagarasi River, and reach Ujiji in 3-1/2hours. Found Haji Thani's agent in charge of my remaining goods. Medicines, wine, and cheese had been left at Unyanyembé, thirteen dayseast of this. Milk not to be had, as the cows had not calved, but apresent of Assam tea from Mr. Black, the Inspector of the Peninsular andOriental Company's affairs, had come from Calcutta, besides my owncoffee and a little sugar. I bought butter; two large pots are sold fortwo fathoms of blue calico, and four-year-old flour, with which we madebread. I found great benefit from the tea and coffee, and still morefrom flannel to the skin. 

_15th March, 1869. _--Took account of all the goods left by theplunderer; sixty-two out of eighty pieces of cloth (each of twenty-fouryards) were stolen, and most of my best beads. The road to Unyembé[3] isblocked up by a Mazitu or Watuta war, so I must wait till the Governorthere gets an opportunity to send them. The Musa sent with the buffaloesis a genuine specimen of the ill-conditioned, English-hating Arab. I wasaccosted on arriving by, "You must give me five dollars a month for allmy time;" this though he had brought nothing--the buffaloes alldied--and did nothing but receive stolen goods. I tried to make use ofhim to go a mile every second day for milk, but he shammed sickness sooften on that day I had to get another to go; then he made a regularpractice of coming into my house, watching what my two attendants weredoing, and going about the village with distorted statements againstthem. 

I clothed him, but he tried to make bad blood between the respectableArab who supplied me with milk and myself, telling him that I abusedhim, and then he would come back, saying that he abused me! I canaccount for his conduct only by attributing it to that which we callill-conditioned: I had to expel him from the house. 

I repaired a house to keep out the rain, and on the _23rd_ moved intoit. I gave our Kasanga host a cloth and blanket; he is ill of pneumoniaof both lungs. 

_28th March, 1869. _--Flannel to the skin and tea very beneficial in thecure of my disease; my cough has ceased, and I walk half a mile. I amwriting letters for home. 

_8th April, 1869. _--Visited Moené Mokaia, who sent me two fowls andrice; gave him two cloths. He added a sheep. 

_13th April, 1869. _--Employed Suleyman to write notes to Governor ofUnyembé, Syde bin Salem Burashid, to make inquiries about the theft ofmy goods, as I meant to apply to Syed Majid, and wished to speak trulyabout his man Musa bin Salum, the chief depredator. 

Wrote also to Thani for boat and crew to go down Tanganyika. 

Syde bin Habib refused to allow his men to carry my letters to thecoast; as he suspected that I would write about his doings in Rua. 

_27th April, 1869. _--Syde had three canoes smashed in coming up pastThembwé; the wind and waves drove them on the rocks, and two weretotally destroyed: they are heavy unmanageable craft, and at the mercyof any storm if they cannot get into a shut bay, behind the reeds andaquatic vegetation. One of the wrecks is said to have been worth 200dollars (40_l. _). 

The season called Masika commenced this month with the usual rollingthunder, and more rain than in the month preceding. 

I have been busy writing letters home, and finished forty-two, which insome measure will make up for my long silence. The Ujijians areunwilling to carry my letters, because, they say, Seyed Majid will orderthe bearer to return with others: he may say, "You know where he is, goback to him, " but I suspect they fear my exposure of their ways morethan anything else. [4]

_16th May, 1869. _--Thani bin Suellim sent me a note yesterday to saythat he would be here in two days, or say three; he seems the mostactive of the Ujijians, and I trust will help me to get a canoe and men. 

The malachite at Katañga is loosened by fire, then dug out of fourhills: four manehs of the ore yield one maneh of copper, but those whocultivate the soil get more wealth than those who mine the copper. 

[No change of purpose was allowed to grow out of sickness anddisappointment. Here and there, as in the words written on the next day, we find Livingstone again with his back turned to the coast and gazingtowards the land of the Manyuema and the great rivers reported there. ]_17th May, 1869. _--Syde bin Habib arrived to-day with his cargo ofcopper and slaves. I have to change house again, and wish I were away, now that I am getting stronger. Attendants arrive from Parra or Mparra. 

[The old slave-dealer, whom he met at Casembe's, and who seems to havebeen set at liberty through Livingstone's instrumentality, arrives atUjiji at last. ]

_18th May, 1869. _--Mohamad bin Saleh arrived to-day. He left this whencomparatively young, and is now well advanced in years. 

The Bakatala at Lualaba West killed Salem bin Habib. _Mem. _--Keep clearof them. Makwamba is one of the chiefs of the rock-dwellers, Ngulu isanother, and Masika-Kitobwé on to Baluba. Sef attached Kilolo N'tambwé. 

_19th May, 1869. _--The emancipation of our West-Indian slaves was thework of but a small number of the people of England--the philanthropistsand all the more advanced thinkers of the age. Numerically they were avery small minority of the population, and powerful only from thesuperior abilities of the leading men, and from having the right, thetrue, and just on their side. Of the rest of the population an immensenumber were the indifferent, who had no sympathies to spare for anybeyond their own fireside circles. In the course of time sensationwriters came up on the surface of society, and by way of originalitythey condemned almost every measure and person of the past. "Emancipation was a mistake;" and these fast writers drew along withthem a large body, who would fain be slaveholders themselves. We mustnever lose sight of the fact that though the majority perhaps are on theside of freedom, large numbers of Englishmen are not slaveholders onlybecause the law forbids the practice. In this proclivity we see a greatpart of the reason of the frantic sympathy of thousands with the rebelsin the great Black war in America. It is true that we do sympathizewith brave men, though we may not approve of the objects for which theyfight. We admired Stonewall Jackson as a modern type of Cromwell'sIronsides; and we praised Lee for his generalship, which, after all, waschiefly conspicuous by the absence of commanding abilities in hisopponents, but, unquestionably, there existed besides an eager desirethat slaveocracy might prosper, and the Negro go to the wall. Thewould-be slaveholders showed their leanings unmistakably in reference tothe Jamaica outbreak; and many a would-be Colonel Hobbs, in lack ofrevolvers, dipped his pen in gall and railed against all Niggers whocould not be made slaves. We wonder what they thought of their hero, when informed that, for very shame at what he had done and written, hehad rushed unbidden out of the world. 

_26th May, 1869. _--Thani bin Suellim came from Unyanyembé on the 20th. He is a slave who has risen to freedom and influence; he has adisagreeable outward squint of the right eye, teeth protruding from theaverted lips, is light-coloured, and of the nervous type of African. Hebrought two light boxes from Unyembé, and charged six fathoms for oneand eight fathoms for the other, though the carriage of both had beenpaid for at Zanzibar. When I paid him he tried to steal, and succeededwith one cloth by slipping it into the hands of a slave. I gave him twocloths and a double blanket as a present. He discovered afterwards whathe knew before, that all had been injured by the wet on the way here, and sent two back openly, which all saw to be an insult. He asked alittle coffee, and I gave a plateful; and he even sent again for morecoffee after I had seen reason to resent his sending back my present. Ireplied, "He won't send coffee back, for I shall give him none. " Inrevenge he sends round to warn all the Ujijians against taking myletters to the coast; this is in accordance with their previous conduct, for, like the Kilwa people on the road to Nyassa, they have refused tocarry my correspondence. 

This is a den of the worst kind of slave-traders; those whom I met inUrungu and Itawa were gentlemen slavers: the Ujiji slavers, like theKilwa and Portuguese, are the vilest of the vile. It is not a trade, buta system of consecutive murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, andevery trading trip is nothing but a foray. Moené Mokaia, the headman ofthis place, sent canoes through to Nzigé, and his people, feeling theirprowess among men ignorant of guns, made a regular assault but wererepulsed, and the whole, twenty in number, were killed. Moené Mokaia isnow negotiating with Syde bin Habib to go and revenge this, for so muchivory, and all he can get besides. Syde, by trying to revenge the deathof Salem bin Habib, his brother, on the Bakatala, has blocked up onepart of the country against me, and will probably block Nzigé, for Icannot get a message sent to Chowambé by anyone, and may have to go toKaragwé on foot, and then from Rumanyika down to this water. 

[In reference to the above we may add that there is a vocabulary ofMasai words at the end of a memorandum-book. Livingstone compiled thiswith the idea that it would prove useful on his way towards the coast, should he eventually pass through the Masai country. No doubt some ofthe Arabs or their slaves knew the language, and assisted him at hiswork. ]

_29th May, 1869. _--Many people went off to Unyembé, and their houseswere untenanted; I wished one, as I was in a lean-to of Zahor's, but thetwo headmen tried to secure the rent for themselves, and were defeatedby Mohamad bin Saleh. I took my packet of letters to Thani, and gave twocloths and four bunches of beads to the man who was to take them toUnyanyembé; an hour afterwards, letters, cloths, and beads werereturned: Thani said he was afraid of English letters; he did not knowwhat was inside. I had sewed them up in a piece of canvas, that wassuspicious, and he would call all the great men of Ujiji and ask them ifit would be safe to take them; if they assented he would call for theletters, if not he would not send them. I told Mohamad bin Saleh, and hesaid to Thani that he and I were men of the Government, and orders hadcome from Syed Majid to treat me with all respect: was this conductrespectful? Thani then sent for the packet, but whether it will reachZanzibar I am doubtful. I gave the rent to the owner of the house andwent into it on 31st May. They are nearly all miserable Suaheli atUjiji, and have neither the manners nor the sense of Arabs. 

[We see in the next few lines how satisfied Livingstone was concerningthe current in the Lake: he almost wishes to call Tanganyika _a river_. Here then is a problem left for the future explorer to determine. Although the Doctor proved by experiments during his lengthy stay atUjiji that the set is towards the north, his two men get over thedifficulty thus: "If you blow upon the surface of a basin of water onone side, you will cause the water at last to revolve round and round;so with Tanganyika, the prevailing winds produce a similarcirculation. ". They feel certain there is no outlet, because at one timeor another they virtually completed the survey of the coast line andlistened to native testimony besides. How the phenomenon of sweet wateris to be accounted for we do not pretend to say. The reader will seefurther on that Livingstone grapples with the difficulty which this Lakeaffords, and propounds an exceedingly clever theory. ]

Tanganyika has encroached on the Ujiji side upwards of a mile, and thebank, which was in the memory of men now living, garden ground, iscovered with about two fathoms of water: in this Tanganyika resemblesmost other rivers in this country, as the Upper Zambesi for instance, which in the Barotsé country has been wearing eastwards for the lastthirty years: this Lake, or river, has worn eastwards too. 

_1st June, 1869. _--I am thankful to feel getting strong again, and wishto go down Tanganyika, but cannot get men: two months must elapse ere wecan face the long grass and superabundant water in the way to Manyuema. 

[Illustration: Lines of Green Scum]

The green scum which forms on still water in this country is ofvegetable origin--confervæ. When the rains fall they swell the lagoons, and the scum is swept into the Lake; here it is borne along by thecurrent from south to north, and arranged in long lines, which bend fromside to side as the water flows, but always N. N. W. Or N. N. E. , and notdriven, as here, by the winds, as plants floating above the level of thewater would be. 

_7th June, 1869. _--It is remarkable that all the Ujiji Arabs who haveany opinion on the subject, believe that all the water in the north, andall the water in the south, too, flows into Tanganyika, but where itthen goes they have no conjecture. They assert, as a matter of fact, that Tanganyika, Usigé water, and Loanda, are one and the same piece ofriver. 

Thani, on being applied to for men and a canoe to take me down this lineof drainage, consented, but let me know that his people would go nofurther than Uvira, and then return. He subsequently said Usigé, but Iwished to know what I was to do when left at the very point where Ishould be most in need. He replied, in his silly way, "My people areafraid; they won't go further; get country people, " &c. Moenegheré sentmen to Loanda to force a passage through, but his people were repulsedand twenty killed. 

Three men came yesterday from Mokamba, the greatest chief in Usigé, with four tusks as a present to his friend Moenegheré, and asking forcanoes to be sent down to the end of Urundi country to bring butter andother things, which the three men could not bring: this seems anopening, for Mokamba being Moenegheré's friend I shall prefer payingMoenegheré for a canoe to being dependent on Thani's skulkers. If theway beyond Mokamba is blocked up by the fatal skirmish referred to, Ican go from Mokamba to Rumanyika, three or four or more days distant, and get guides from him to lead me back to the main river beyond Loanda, and by this plan only three days of the stream will be passed overunvisited. Thani would evidently like to receive the payment, butwithout securing to me the object for which I pay. He is a poor thing, aslaveling: Syed Majid, Sheikh Suleiman, and Korojé, have all written tohim, urging an assisting deportment in vain: I never see him but he begssomething, and gives nothing, I suppose he expects me to beg from him. Ishall be guided by Moenegheré. 

I cannot find anyone who knows where the outflow of the unvisited LakeS. W. Of this goes; some think that it goes to the Western Ocean, or, Ishould say, the Congo. Mohamad Bogharib goes in a month to Manyuema, butif matters turn out as I wish, I may explore this Tanganyika line first. One who has been in Manyuema three times, and was of the first partythat ever went there, says that the Manyuema are not cannibals, but atribe west of them eats some parts of the bodies of those slain in war. Some people south of Moenékuss[5], chief of Manyuema, build strong clayhouses. 

_22nd June, 1869. _--After listening to a great deal of talk I have cometo the conclusion that I had better not go with Moenegheré's people toMokamba. I see that it is to be a mulcting, as in Speke's case: I am togive largely, though I am not thereby assured of getting down the river. They say, "You must give much, because you are a great man: Mokamba willsay so"--though Mokamba knows nothing about me! It is uncertain whetherI can get down through by Loanda, and great risk would be run in goingto those who cut off the party of Moenegheré, so I have come to theconclusion that it will be better for me to go to Manyuema about afortnight hence, and, if possible, trace down the western arm of theNile to the north--if this arm is indeed that of the Nile, and not ofthe Congo. Nobody here knows anything about it, or, indeed, about theeastern or Tanganyika line either; they all confess that they have butone question in their minds in going anywhere, they ask for ivory andfor nothing else, and each trip ends as a foray. Moenegheré's last tripended disastrously, twenty-six of his men being cut off; in extenuationhe says that it was not his war but Mokamba's: he wished to be allowedto go down through Loanda, and as the people in front of Mokamba andUsigé own his supremacy, he said, "Send your force with mine and let usopen the way, " so they went on land and were killed. An attempt was madeto induce Syde bin Habib to clear the way, and be paid in ivory, butSyde likes to battle with those who will soon run away and leave thespoil to him. 

The Manyuema are said to be friendly where they have not been attackedby Arabs: a great chief is reported as living on a large river flowingnorthwards, I hope to make my way to him, and I feel exhilarated at thethought of getting among people not spoiled by contact with Arabtraders. I would not hesitate to run the risk of getting through Loanda, the continuation of Usigé beyond Mokamba's, had blood not been shed sovery recently there; but it would at present be a great danger, and toexplore some sixty miles of the Tanganyika line only. If I returnhither from Manyuema my goods and fresh men from Zanzibar will havearrived, and I shall be better able to judge as to the course to bepursued after that. Mokamba is about twenty, miles beyond Uvira; thescene of Moenegheré's defeat, is ten miles beyond Mokamba; so theunexplored part cannot be over sixty miles, say thirty if we takeBaker's estimate of the southing of his water to be near the truth. 

Salem or Palamotto told me that he was sent for by a headman near tothis to fight his brother for him: he went and demanded prepayment; thenthe brother sent him three tusks to refrain: Salem took them and camehome. The Africans have had hard measures meted out to them in theworld's history!

_28th June, 1869. _--The current in Tanganyika is well marked when thelighter-coloured water of a river flows in and does not at once mix--theLuishé at Ujiji is a good example, and it shows by large light greenishpatches on the surface a current of nearly a mile an hour north. Itbegins to flow about February, and continues running north till Novemberor December. Evaporation on 300 miles of the south is then at itsstrongest, and water begins to flow gently south till arrested by theflood of the great rains there, which takes place in February and March. There is, it seems, a reflux for about three months in each year, flowand reflow being the effect of the rains and evaporation on a lacustrineriver of some three hundred miles in length lying south of the equator. The flow northwards I have myself observed, that again southwards restson native testimony, and it was elicited from the Arabs by pointing outthe northern current: they attributed the southern current to the effectof the wind, which they say then blows south. Being cooled by the rains, it comes south into the hot valley of this great Riverein Lake, orlacustrine river. 

In going to Moenékuss, the paramount chief of the Manyuema, forty daysare required. The headmen of trading parties remain with this chief (whois said by all to be a very good man), and send their people out in alldirections to trade. Moenemogaia says that in going due north fromMoenékuss they come to a large river, the Robumba, which flows into andis the Luama, and that this again joins the Lualaba, which retains itsname after flowing with the Lufira and Lofu into the still unvisitedLake S. S. W. Of this: it goes thence due north, probably into Mr. Baker'spart of the eastern branch of the Nile. When I have gone as far northalong Lualaba as I can this year, I shall be able to judge as to thecourse I ought to take after receiving my goods and men from Zanzibar, and may the Highest direct me, so that I may finish creditably the workI have undertaken. I propose to start for Manyuema on the 3rd July. 

The dagala or nsipé, a small fish caught in great numbers in everyflowing water, and very like whitebait, is said to emit its eggs by themouth, and these immediately burst and the young fish manages foritself. The dagala never becomes larger than two or three inches inlength. Some, putrefied, are bitter, as if the bile were in them in agood quantity. I have eaten them in Lunda of a pungent bitter taste, probably arising from the food on which the fish feeds. Men say thatthey have seen the eggs kept in the sides of the mouth till ready to gooff as independent fishes. The nghédé-dégé, a species of perch, andanother, the ndusi, are said to do the same. The Arabs imagine that fishin general fall from the skies, but they except the shark, because theycan see the young when it is cut open. 

_10th July, 1869. _--After a great deal of delay and trouble about acanoe, we got one from Habee for ten dotis or forty yards of calico, anda doti or four yards to each of nine paddlers to bring the vessel back. Thani and Zahor blamed me for not taking their canoes for nothing; butthey took good care not to give them, but made vague offers, whichmeant, "We want much higher pay for our dhows than Arabs generallyget:" they showed such an intention to fleece me that I was glad to getout of their power, and save the few goods I had. I went a few miles, when two strangers I had allowed to embark (from being under obligationsto their masters), worked against each other: so I had to let one land, and but for his master would have dismissed the other: I had to send anapology to the landed man's master for politeness' sake. 

[It is necessary to say a few words here, so unostentatiously doesLivingstone introduce this new series of explorations to the reader. TheManyuema country, for which he set out on the 12th of July, 1869, washitherto unknown. As we follow him we shall see that in almost everyrespect both the face of the country and the people differ from otherregions lying nearer to the East Coast. It appears that the Arabs had aninkling of the vast quantities of ivory which might be procured there, and Livingstone went into the new field with the foremost of thosehordes of Ujijian traders who, in all probability, will eventuallydestroy tribe after tribe by slave-trading and pillage, as they havedone in so many other regions. ]

Off at 6 A. M. , and passed the mouth of the Luishé, in Kibwé Bay; 3-1/2hours took us to Rombola or Lombola, where all the building wood ofUjiji is cut. 

_12th July, 1869. _--Left at 1. 30 A. M. , and pulled 7-1/2 hours to theleft bank of the Malagarasi River. We cannot go by day, because about 11A. M. A south-west wind commences to blow, which the heavy canoes cannotface; it often begins earlier or later, according to the phases of themoon. An east wind blows from sunrise till 10 or 11 A. M. , and thesouth-west begins. The Malagarasi is of considerable size at itsconfluence, and has a large islet covered with eschinomena, or pith hatmaterial, growing in its way. 

Were it not for the current Tanganyika would be covered with green scumnow rolling away in miles of length and breadth to the north; it wouldalso be salt like its shut-in bays. The water has now fallen two feetperpendicularly. It took us twelve hours to ascend to the MalagarasiRiver from Ujiji, and only seven to go down that distance. Prodigiousquantities of confervæ pass us day and night in slow majestic flow. Itis called Shuaré. But for the current Tanganyika would be covered with"Tikatika" too, like Victoria Nyanza. 

_13th July, 1869. _--Off at 3. 15 A. M. , and in five hours reached KabogoEiver; from this point the crossing is always accomplished: it is aboutthirty miles broad. Tried to get off at 6 P. M. , but after two miles thesouth wind blew, and as it is a dangerous wind and the usual one instorms, the men insisted on coming back, for the wind, having freescope along the entire southern length of Tanganyika, raises wavesperilous to their heavy craft; after this the clouds cleared all away, and the wind died off too; the full moon shone brightly, and this isusually accompanied by calm weather here. Storms occur at new moon mostfrequently. 

_14th July, 1869. _--Sounded in dark water opposite the high fountainKabogo, 326 fathoms, but my line broke in coming up, and we did not seethe armed end of the sounding lead with sand or mud on it: this is 1965feet. 

People awaking in fright utter most unearthly yells, and they are joinedin them by all who sleep near. The first imagines himself seized by awild beast, the rest roar because they hear him doing it: this indicatesthe extreme of helpless terror. 

_15th July, 1869. _--After pulling all night we arrived at some islandsand cooked breakfast, then we went on to Kasengë islet on their south, and came up to Mohamad Bogharib, who had come from Tongwé, and intendedto go to Manyuema. We cross over to the mainland, that is, to thewestern shore of the Lake, about 300 yards off, to begin our journey onthe 21st. Lunars on 20th. Delay to prepare food for journey. Lunarsagain 22nd. 

A strong wind from the East to-day. A current sweeps round this isletKiséngé from N. E. To S. E. , and carries trees and duckweed at more thana mile an hour in spite of the breeze blowing across it to the West. Thewind blowing along the Lake either way raises up water, and in a calm itreturns, off the shore. Sometimes it causes the current to gosouthwards. Tanganyika narrows at Uvira or Vira, and goes out of sightamong the mountains there; then it appears as a waterfall into the Lakeof Quando seen by Banyamwezi. 

_23rd July, 1869. _--I gave a cloth to be kept for Kasanga, the chief ofKasengé, who has gone to fight with the people of Goma. 

_1st August, 1869. _--Mohamad killed a kid as a sort of sacrifice, andthey pray to Hadrajee before eating it. The cookery is of their verybest, and I always get a share; I tell them that I like the cookery, butnot the prayers, and it is taken in good part. 

_2nd August, 1869. _--We embarked from the islet and got over to themainland, and slept in a hooked-thorn copse, with a species of blackpepper plant, which we found near the top of Mount Zomba, in theManganja country, [6] in our vicinity; it shows humidity of climate. 

_3rd August, 1869. _--Marched 3-1/4 hours south, along Tanganyika, in avery undulating country; very fatiguing in my weakness. Passed manyscrew-palms, and slept at Lobamba village. 

_4th August, 1869. _--A relative of Kasanga engaged to act as our guide, so we remained waiting for him, and employed a Banyamwezi smith to makecopper balls with some bars of that metal presented by Syde bin Habib. Alamb wasstolen, and all declared that the deed must have been done byBanyamwezi. "At Guha people never steal, " and I believe this is true. 

_7th August, 1869. _--The guide having arrived, we marched 2-1/4 hourswest and crossed the River Logumba, about forty yards broad and kneedeep, with a rapid current between deep cut banks; it rises in thewestern Kabogo range, and flows about S. W. Into Tanganyika. Much dura or_Holcus sorghum_ is cultivated on the rich alluvial soil on its banks bythe Guha people. 

_8th August, 1869. _--West through open forest; very undulating, and thepath full of angular fragments of quartz. We see mountains in thedistance. 

_9th-10th August, 1869. _--Westwards to Makhato's village, and met acompany of natives beating a drum as they came near; this is the peacesignal; if war is meant the attack is quiet and stealthy. There areplenty of Masuko trees laden with fruit, but unripe. It is cold atnight, but dry, and the people sleep with only a fence at their heads, but I have a shed built at every camp as a protection for the loads, andsleep in it. 

Any ascent, though gentle, makes me blow since the attack of pneumonia;if it is inclined to an angle of 45°, 100 or 150 yards make me stop topant in distress. 

_11th August, 1869. _--Came to a village of Ba Rua, surrounded by hillsof some 200 feet above the plain; trees sparse. 

_12th-13th August, 1869. _--At villages of Mekhéto. Guha people. Remainto buy and prepare food, and because many are sick. 

_16th August, 1869. _--West and by north through much forest reachKalalibébé; buffalo killed. 

_17th August, 1869. _--To a high mountain, Golu or Gulu, and sleep at itsbase. 

_18th August, 1869. _--Cross two rills flowing into River Mgoluyé. Kagoyaand Moishé flow into Lobumba. 

_19th August, 1869. _--To the River Lobumba, forty-five yards Avide, thigh deep, and rapid current. Logumba and Lobumba are both from KabogoMounts: one goes into Tanganyika, and the other, or Lobumba, into and isthe Luamo: prawns are found in this river. The country east of theLobumba is called Lobanda, that west of it, Kitwa. 

_21st August, 1869. _--Went on to the River Loungwa, which has worn foritself a rut in new red sandstone twenty feet deep, and only three orfour feet wide at the lips. 

_25th August, 1869. _--We rest because all are tired; travelling at thisseason is excessively fatiguing. It is very hot at even 10 A. M. , and 2½or 3 hours tires the strongest--carriers especially so: during the rainsfive hours would not have fatigued so much as three do now. We are nowon the same level as Tanganyika. The dense mass of black smoke risingfrom the burning grass and reeds on the Lobumba, or Robumba, obscuresthe sun, and very sensibly lowers the temperature of the sultriest day;it looks like the smoke in Martin's pictures. The Manyuema arrows hereare very small, and made of strong grass stalks, but poisoned, the largeones, for elephants and buffaloes, are poisoned also. 

_31st August, 1869. _--Course N. W. Among Palmyras and Hyphené Palms, andmany villages swarming with people. Crossed Kibila, a hot fountain about120°, to sleep at Kolokolo River, five yards wide, and knee deep: midwaywe passed the River Kanzazala. On asking the name of a mountain on ourright I got three names for it--Kaloba, Chingedi, and Kihomba, a fairspecimen of the superabundance of names in this country!

_1st September, 1869. _--West in flat forest, then cross Kishila River, and go on to Kundé's villages. The Katamba is a fine rivulet. Kundé isan old man without dignity or honour: he came to beg, but offerednothing. 

_2nd September, 1869. _--We remained at Katamba to hunt buffaloes andrest, as I am still weak. A young elephant was killed, and I got theheart: the Arabs do not eat it, but that part is nice if well cooked. 

A Lunda slave, for whom I interceded to be freed of the yoke, ran away, and as he is near the Barna, his countrymen, he will be hidden. He toldhis plan to our guide, and asked to accompany him back to Tanganyika, but he is eager to deliver him up for a reward: all are eager to presseach other down in the mire into which they are already sunk. 

_5th September, 1869. _--Kundé's people refused the tusks of an elephantkilled by our hunter, asserting that they had killed it themselves witha hoe: they have no honour here, as some have elsewhere. 

_7th September, 1869. _--W. And N. W. , through forest and immense fieldsof cassava, some three years old, with roots as thick as a stout man'sleg. 

_8th September, 1869. _--Across five rivers and through many villages. The country is covered with ferns and gingers, and miles and miles ofcassava. On to village of Karun-gamagao. 

_9th September, 1869. _--Rest again to shoot meat, as elephants andbuffaloes are very abundant: the Suaheli think that adultery is anobstacle to success in killing this animal: no harm can happen to himwho is faithful to his wife, and has the proper charms inserted underthe skin of his forearms. 

_10th September, 1869. _--North and north-west, over four rivers, and. Past the village of Makala, to near that of Pyana-mosindé. 

_12th September, 1869. _--We had wandered, and now came back to our pathon hilly ground. The days are sultry and smoking. We came to somevillages of Pyana-mosindé; the population prodigiously large. A swordwas left at the camp, and at once picked up; though the man was tracedto a village it was refused, till he accidentally cut his foot with it, and became afraid that worse would follow, elsewhere it would have beengiven up at once: Pyana-mosindé came out and talked very sensibly. 

_13th September, 1869. _--Along towards the Moloni or Mononi; cross sevenrills. The people seized three slaves who lagged behind, but hearing agun fired at guinea-fowls let them go. Route N. 

_14th September, 1869. _--Up and down hills perpetually. We went downinto some deep dells, filled with gigantic trees, and I measured onetwenty feet in circumference, and sixty or seventy feet high to thefirst branches; others seemed fit to be ship's spars. Large lichenscovered many and numerous new plants appeared on the ground. 

_15th September, 1869. _--Got clear of the mountains after 1-1/2 hour, andthen the vast valley of Mamba opened out before us; very beautiful, andmuch of it cleared of trees. Met Dugumbé carrying 18, 000 lbs. Of ivory, purchased in this new field very cheaply, because no traders had evergone into the country beyond Bambarré, or Moenékuss's district before. We were now in the large bend of the Lualaba, which is here much largerthan at Mpwéto's, near Moero Lake. River Kesingwé. 

_16th September, 1869. _--To Kasangangazi's. We now came to the firstpalm-oil trees (_Elais Guineensis_) in our way since we left Tanganyika. They had evidently been planted at villages. Light-grey parrots, withred tails, also became common, whose name, Kuss or Koos, gives the chiefhis name, Moenékuss ("Lord of the Parrot"); but the Manyuemapronunciation is Monanjoosé. Much reedy grass, fully half an inch indiameter in the stalk on our route, and over the top of the rangeMoloni, which we ascended: the valleys are impassable. 

_17th September, 1869. _--Remain to buy food at Kasanga's, and rest thecarriers. The country is full of pahn-oil palms, and very beautiful. Ourpeople are all afraid to go out of sight of the camp for necessarypurposes, lest the Manyuema should kill them. Here was the barrier totraders going north, for the very people among whom we now are, murderedanyone carrying a tusk, till last year, when Moene-mokaia, or Katomba, got into friendship with Moenékuss, who protected his people, and alwaysbehaved in a generous sensible manner. Dilongo, now a chief here, cameto visit us: his elder brother died, and he was elected; he does notwash in consequence, and is very dirty. 

Two buffaloes were killed yesterday. The people have their bodiestattooed with new and full moons, stars, crocodiles, and Egyptiangardens. 

_19th September, 1869. _--We crossed several rivulets three yards totwelve yards, and calf deep. The mountain where we camped is calledSangomélambé. 

_20th September, 1869. _--Up to a broad range of high mountains of lightgrey granite; there are deep dells on the top filled with gigantictrees, and having running rills in them. Some trees appear with enormousroots, buttresses in fact like mangroves in the coast swamps, six feethigh at the trunk and flattened from side to side to about three inchesin diameter. There are many villages dotted over the slopes which weclimbed; one had been destroyed, and revealed the hard clay walls andsquare forms of Manyuema houses. Our path lay partly along a ridge, witha deep valley on each side: one on the left had a valley filled withprimeval forests, into which elephants when wounded escape completely. The forest was a dense mass, without a bit of ground to be seen except apatch on the S. W. , the bottom of this great valley was 2000 feet belowus, then ranges of mountains with villages on their bases rose as far asthey could reach. On our right there was another deep but narrow gorge, and mountains much higher than on our ridge close adjacent. Our ridgelooked like a glacier, and it wound from side to side, and took us tothe edge of deep precipices, first on the right, then on the left, tilldown below we came to the villages of Chief Monandenda. The houses hereare all well filled with firewood on shelves, and each has a bed on araised platform in an inner room. 

The paths are very skilfully placed on the tops of the ridges of hills, and all gullies are avoided. If the highest level were not in generalmade the ground for passing through the country the distances would atleast be doubled, and the fatigue greatly increased. The paths seem tohave been used for ages: they are worn deep on the heights; and inhollows a little mound rises on each side, formed by the feet tossing alittle soil on one side. 

_21st September, 1869. _--Cross five or six rivulets, and as manyvillages, some burned and deserted, or inhabited. Very many people comerunning to see the strangers. Gigantic trees all about the villages. Arrive at Bambarré or Moenékuss. 

About eighty hours of actual travelling, say at 2' per hour = say 160'or 140'. Westing from 3rd August to 21st September. My strengthincreased as I persevered. From Tanganyika west bank say =

 29° 30' east - 140' = 2° 20, ' 2 20 ------- 27° 10' Long. 

Chief village of Moenékuss. 

Observations show a little lower altitude than Tanganyika. 

_22nd September, 1869. _--Moenékuss died lately, and left his two sons tofill his place. Moenembagg is the elder of the two, and the mostsensible, and the spokesman on all important occasions, but his youngerbrother, Moenemgoi, is the chief, the centre of authority. They showedsymptoms of suspicion, and Mohamad performed the ceremony of mixingblood, which is simply making a small incision on the forearm of eachperson, and then mixing the bloods, and making declarations offriendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not steal, we never do, "which is true: blood in a small quantity was then conveyed from one tothe other by a fig-leaf. "No stealing of fowls or of men, " said thechief: "Catch the thief and bring him to me, one who steals a person isa pig, " said Mohamad. Stealing, however, began on our side, a slavepurloining a fowl, so they had good reason to enjoin honesty on us! Theythink that we have come to kill them: we light on them as if fromanother world: no letters come to tell who we are, or what we want. Wecannot conceive their state of isolation and helplessness, with nothingto trust to but their charms and idols--both being bits of wood. I got alarge beetle hung up before an idol in the idol house of a deserted andburned village; the guardian was there, but the village destroyed. 

I presented the two brothers with two table cloths, four bunches ofbeads, and one string of neck-beads; they were well satisfied. 

A wood here when burned emits a horrid fæcal smell, and one would thinkthe camp polluted if one fire was made of it. I had a house built for mebecause the village huts are inconvenient, low in roof, and lowdoorways; the men build them, and help to cultivate the soil, but thewomen have to keep them well filled with firewood and supplied withwater. They carry the wood, and almost everything else in large baskets, hung to the shoulders, like the Edinburgh fishwives. A man made a longloud prayer to Mulungu last night after dark for rain. 

The sons of Moenékuss have but little of their father's power, but theytry to behave to strangers as he did. All our people are in terror ofthe Manyéma, or Manyuema, man-eating fame: a woman's child had creptinto a quiet corner of the hut to eat a banana--she could not find him, and at once concluded that the Manyuema had kidnapped him to eat him, and with a yell she ran through the camp and screamed at the top of hershrill voice, "Oh, the Manyuema have stolen my child to make meat ofhim! Oh, my child eaten--oh, oh!"

_26th-28th September, 1869. _--A Lunda slave-girl was sent off to be soldfor a tusk, but the Manyuema don't want slaves, as we were told inLunda, for they are generally thieves, and otherwise bad characters. Itis now clouded over and preparing for rain, when sun comes overhead. Small-pox comes every three or four years, and kills many of the people. A soko alive was believed to be a good charm for rain; so one wascaught, and the captor had the ends of two fingers and toes bitten off. The soko or gorillah always tries to bite off these parts, and has beenknown to overpower a young man and leave him without the ends of fingersand toes. I saw the nest of one: it is a poor contrivance; no morearchitectural skill shown than in the nest of our Cushat dove. 

_29th September, 1869. _--I visited a hot fountain, an hour west of ourcamp, which has five eyes, temperature 150°, slightly saline taste, andsteam issues constantly. It is called Kasugwé Colambu. Earthquakes arewell known, and to the Manyuema they seem to come from the east to west;pots rattle and fowls cackle on these occasions. 

_2nd October, 1869. _--A rhinoceros was shot, and party sent off to theRiver Luamo to buy ivory. 

_5th October, 1869. _--An elephant was killed, and the entire populationwent off to get meat, which was given freely at first, but after it wasknown how eagerly the Manyuema sought it, six or eight goats weredemanded for a carcase and given. 

_9th October, 1869. _--The rite of circumcision is general among all theManyuema; it is performed on the young. If a headman's son is to beoperated on, it is tried on a slave first; certain times of the year areunpropitious, as during a drought for instance; but having by thisexperiment ascertained the proper time, they go into the forest, beatdrums, and feast as elsewhere: contrary to all African custom they arenot ashamed to speak about the rite, even before women. 

Two very fine young men came to visit me to-day. After putting severalpreparatory inquiries as to where our country lay, &c. , they askedwhether people died with us, and where they went to after death. "Whokills them?" "Have you no charm (Buanga) against death?" It is notnecessary to answer such questions save in a land never visited bystrangers. Both had the "organs of intelligence" largely developed. Itold them that we prayed to the Great Father, "Mulungu, " and He hears usall; they thought this to be natural. 

_14th October, 1869. _--An elephant killed was of the small variety, andonly 5 feet 8 inches high at the withers. The forefoot was incircumference 3 feet 9 inches, which doubled gives 7 feet 6 inches; thisshows a deviation from the usual rule "twice round the forefoot = theheight of the animal. " Heart 1-1/2 foot long, tusks 6 feet 8 inches inlength. 

_15th October, 1869. _--Fever better, and thankful. Very cold and rainy. 

_18th October, 1869. _--Our Hassani returned from Moené Kirumbo's; thenone of Dugumbé's party (also called Hassani) seized ten goats and tenslaves before leaving, though great kindness had been shown: this isgenuine Suaheli or Nigger-Moslem tactics--four of his people were killedin revenge. 

A whole regiment of Soldier ants in my hut were put into a panic by adetachment of Driver ants called Sirufu. The Chungu or black soldiersrushed out with their eggs and young, putting them down and running formore. A dozen Sirafu pitched on one Chungu and killed him. The Chungumade new quarters for themselves. When the white ants cast off theircolony of winged emigrants a canopy is erected like an umbrella over theant-hill. As soon as the ants fly against the roof they tumble down in ashower and their wings instantly become detached from their bodies. Theyare then helpless, and are swept up in baskets to be fried, when theymake a very palatable food. 

[Illustration: Catching Ants. ]

_24th-25th October, 1869. _--Making copper rings, as these are highlyprized by Manyuema. Mohamad's Tembé fell. It had been begun on anunlucky day, the 26th of the moon; and on another occasion on the sameday, he had fifty slaves swept away by a sudden flood of a dry river inthe Obena country: they are great observers of lucky and unlucky days. 

FOOTNOTES:

[1] On showing Chuma and Susi some immense Cochin-China fowls at apoultry show, they said that they were not larger than those whichthey saw when with Dr. Livingstone on these islands. Muscovy ducksabound throughout Central Africa. --ED. 

[2] The natural dress of the Malagash. 

[3] The same as Unyanyembé, the half-way settlement on the greatcaravan road from the coast to the interior. 

[4] These letters must have been destroyed purposely by the Arabs, forthey never arrived at Zanzibar. --ED. 

[5] It is curious that this name occurs amongst the Zulu tribes southof the Zambesi, and, as it has no vowel at the end, appears to be ofaltogether foreign origin. --ED. 

[6] In 1859. 

CHAPTER II. 

 Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbé's ravages. Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated. Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner. Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears of four river sources close together. Resumé of discoveries. Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr. Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters. 

_1st November, 1869. _--Being now well rested, I resolved to go west toLualaba and buy a canoe for its exploration. Our course was west andsouth-west, through a country surpassingly beautiful, mountainous, andvillages perched on the talus of each great mass for the sake of quickdrainage. The streets often run east and west, in order that the brightblazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwellinghouses are generally in line, with public meeting houses at each end, opposite the middle of the street, the roofs are low, but well thatchedwith a leaf resembling the banana leaf, but more tough; it seems fromits fruit to be a species of Euphorbia. The leaf-stack has a notch madein it of two or three inches lengthways, and this hooks on to therafters, which are often of the leaf-stalks of palms, split up so as tobe thin; the water runs quickly off this roof, and the walls, which areof well-beaten clay, are screened from the weather. Inside, thedwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came bugs wereunknown--as I have before observed, one may know where these people havecome by the presence or absence of these nasty vermin: the human tick, which infests all Arab and Suaheli houses, is to the Manyuema unknown. 

In some cases, where the south-east rains are abundant, the Manyuemaplace the back side of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the lowroof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay wallsstand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left ininfancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away. The country generally is of clayey soil, and suitable for building. Eachhousewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to theceiling by very neat cord-swinging tressels; and often as many neatlymade baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood. 

_5th November, 1869. _--In going we crossed the River Luela, of twentyyards in width, five times, in a dense dripping forest. The men of onevillage always refused to accompany us to the next set of hamlets, "Theywere at war, and afraid of being killed and eaten. " They often came fiveor six miles through the forests that separate the districts, but whenwe drew near to the cleared spaces cultivated by their enemies theyparted civilly, and invited us to come the same way back, and they wouldsell us all the food we required. 

The Manyuema country is all surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown thehighest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended frondswave beautifully in the wind; and the forests, usually about five milesbroad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cablesize in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknownwild fruits abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birdsand monkeys are everywhere. The soil is excessively rich, and thepeople, although isolated by old feuds that are never settled, cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends itsfruit-stalk round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high aremade by inserting poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, andnever decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along frompole to pole, and the maize cobs are suspended to these by their ownhooked fruit-stalk. As the corn cob is forming, the hook is turnedround, so that the fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a thatch forthe grain beneath, or inside it. This upright granary forms asolid-looking, wall round the villages, and the people are not stingy, but take down maize and hand it to the men freely. 

The women are very naked. They bring loads of provisions to sell, through the rain, and are eager traders for beads. Plantains, cassava, and maize, are the chief food. The first rains had now begun, and thewhite ants took the hint to swarm and colonize. 

_6th, 7th, and 8th November, 1869. _--We came to many large villages, andwere variously treated; one headman presented me with a parrot, and onmy declining it, gave it to one of my people; some ordered us off, butwere coaxed to allow us to remain over night. They have no restraint;some came and pushed off the door of my hut with a stick while I wasresting, as we should do with a wild-beast cage. 

Though reasonably willing to gratify curiosity, it becomes tiresome tobe the victim of unlimited staring by the ugly, as well as by thegood-looking. I can bear the women, but ugly males are uninteresting, and it is as much as I can stand when a crowd will follow me wherever Imove. They have heard of Dugumbé Hassani's deeds, and are evidentlysuspicious of our intentions: they say, "If you have food at home, whycome so far and spend your beads to buy it here?" If it is replied, onthe strength of some of Mohamad's people being present, "We want to buyivory too;" not knowing its value they think that this is a meresubterfuge to plunder them. Much palm-wine to-day at different partsmade them incapable of reasoning further; they seemed inclined to fight, but after a great deal of talk we departed without collision. 

_9th November, 1869. _--We came to villages where all were civil, butafterwards arrived where there were other palm-trees and palm-toddy, andpeople low and disagreeable in consequence. The mountains all around aregrand, and tree-covered. I saw a man with two great great toes: thedouble toe is usually a little one. 

_11th November, 1869. _--We had heard that the Manyuema were eager to buyslaves, but that meant females only to make wives of them: they prefergoats to men. Mohamad had bought slaves in Lunda in order to get ivoryfrom these Manyuema, but inquiry here and elsewhere brought it outplainly that they would rather let the ivory lie unused or rot thaninvest in male slaves, who are generally criminals--at least in Lunda. Iadvised my friend to desist from buying slaves who would all "eat offtheir own heads, " but he knew better than to buy copper, and on ourreturn he acknowledged that I was right. 

_15th November, 1869. _--We came into a country where Dugumbé's slaveshad maltreated the people greatly, and they looked on us as of the sametribe, and we had much trouble in consequence. The country is swarmingwith villages. Hassani of Dugumbé got the chief into debt, and thenrobbed him of ten men and ten goats to clear off the debt: The Dutch didthe same in the south of Africa. 

_17th November, 1869. _--Copious rains brought us to a halt at MuanaBalangé's, on the banks of the Luamo River. Moerekurambo had diedlately, and his substitute took seven goats to the chiefs on the otherside in order to induce them to come in a strong party and attack us forHassani's affair. 

_20th to 25th November, 1869. _--We were now only about ten miles fromthe confluence of the Luamo and Lualaba, but all the people had beenplundered, and some killed by the slaves of Dugumbé. The Luamo is heresome 200 yards broad and deep; the chiefs everywhere were begged torefuse us a passage. The women were particularly outspoken in assertingour identity with the cruel strangers, and when one lady was asked inthe midst of her vociferation just to look if I were of the same colourwith Dugumbé, she replied with a bitter little laugh, "Then you must behis father!"

It was of no use to try to buy a canoe, for all were our enemies. It wasnow the rainy season, and I had to move with great caution. The worstour enemies did, after trying to get up a war in vain, was to collect aswe went by in force fully armed with their large spears and huge woodenshields, and show us out of their districts. All are kind except thosewho have been abused by the Arab slaves. While waiting at Luamo a man, whom we sent over to buy food, got into a panic and fled he knew notwhither; all concluded that he had been murdered, but some Manyuema whomwe had never seen found him, fed him, and brought him home unscathed: Iwas very glad that no collision had taken place. We returned to Bambarré19th December, 1869. 

_20th December, 1869. _--While we were away a large horde of Ujijianscame to Bambarré, all eager to reach the cheap ivory, of which a rumourhad spread far and wide; they numbered 500 guns, and invited Mohamad togo with them, but he preferred waiting for my return from the west. Wenow resolved to go due north; he to buy ivory, and I to reach anotherpart of the Lualaba and buy a canoe. 

Wherever the dense primeval forest has been cleared off by man, giganticgrasses usurp the clearances. None of the sylvan vegetation can standthe annual grass-burnings except a species of Bauhinia, and occasionallya large tree which sends out new wood below the burned places. Theparrots build thereon, and the men make a stair up 150 feet by tyingclimbing plants (called Binayoba) around, at about four feet distance, as steps: near the confluence of the Luamo, men build huts on this samespecies of tree for safety against the arrows of their enemies. 

_21st December, 1869. _--The strong thick grass of the clearances driesdown to the roots at the surface of the soil, and fire does it no harm. Though a few of the great old burly giants brave the fires, none of theclimbers do: they disappear, but the plants themselves are brought outof the forests and ranged along the plantations like wire fences to keepwild beasts off; the poles of these vegetable wire hedges often takeroot, as also those in stages for maize. 

_22nd, 23rd, and 24th December, 1869. _--Mohamad presented a goat to beeaten on our Christmas. I got large copper bracelets made of my copperby Manyuema smiths, for they are considered very valuable, and havedriven iron bracelets quite out of fashion. 

_25th December, 1869. _--We start immediately after Christmas: I must trywith all my might to finish my exploration before next Christmas. 

_26th December, 1869. _--I get fever severely, and was down all day, butwe march, as I have always found that moving is the best remedy forfever: I have, however, no medicine whatever. We passed over the neck ofMount Kinyima, north-west of Moenékuss, through very slippery forest, and encamped on the banks of the Lulwa Rivulet. 

_28th December, 1869. _--Away to Monangoi's village, near the LuamoRiver, here 150 or more yards wide and deep. A man passed us, bearing ahuman finger wrapped in a leaf; it was to be used as a charm, andbelonged to a man killed in revenge: the Arabs all took this as clearevidence of cannibalism: I hesitated, however, to believe it. 

_29th, 30th, and 31st December, 1869. _--Heavy rains. The Luamo is calledthe Luassé above this. We crossed in canoes. 

_1st January, 1870. _--May the Almighty help me to finish, the work inhand, and retire through the Basango before the year is out. Thanks forall last year's loving kindness. 

Our course was due north, with the Luassé flowing in a gently undulatinggreen country on our right, and rounded mountains in Mbongo's country onour left. 

_2nd January, 1870. _--Rested a day at Mbongo's, as the people werehonest. 

_3rd January, 1870. _--Reached a village at the edge of a great forest, where the people were excited and uproarious, but not ill-bred, they ranalongside the path with us shouting and making energetic remarks to eachother about us. A newly-married couple stood in a village where westopped to inquire the way, with arms around each other very lovingly, and no one joked or poked fun at them. We marched five hours throughforest and crossed three rivulets and much stagnant water which the sunby the few rays he darts in cannot evaporate. We passed several hugetraps for elephants: they are constructed thus--a log of heavy wood, about 20 feet long, has a hole at one end for a climbing plant to passthrough and suspend it, at the lower end a mortice is cut out of theside, and a wooden lance about 2 inches broad by 1-1/2 thick, and about4 feet long, is inserted firmly in the mortice; a latch down on theground, when touched by the animal's foot, lets the beam run down on tohis body, and the great weight of the wood drives in the lance and killsthe animal. I saw one lance which had accidentally fallen, and it hadgone into the stiff clay soil two feet. 

_4th January, 1870. _--- The villagers we passed were civil, but likenoisy children, all talked and gazed. When surrounded by 300 or 400, some who have not been accustomed to the ways of wild men think that afight is imminent; but, poor things, no attack is thought of, if it doesnot begin on our side. Many of Mohamad's people were dreadfully afraidof being killed and eaten; one man out in search of ivory seemed to havelost sight of his companions, for they saw him running with all hismight to a forest with no path in it; he was searched for for severaldays, and was given up as a murdered man, a victim of the cannibalManyuema! On the seventh day after he lost his head, he was led intocamp by a headman, who not only found him wandering but fed and lodgedand restored him to his people. 

[With reference to the above we may add that nothing can exceed theterror in which cannibal nations are held by other African tribes. Itwas common on the River Shiré to hear Manganja and Ajawa people speak oftribes far away to the north who eat human bodies, and on every occasionthe fact was related with the utmost horror and disgust. ]

The women here plait the hair into the form of a basket behind; it isfirst rolled into a very long coil, then wound round something till itis about 8 or 10 inches long, projecting from the back of the head. 

_5th, 6th, and 7th January, 1870. _--Wettings by rain and grassoverhanging our paths, with bad water, brought on choleraic symptoms;and opium from Mohamad had no effect in stopping it: he, too, hadrheumatism. On suspecting the water as the cause, I had all I usedboiled, and this was effectual, but I was greatly reduced in flesh, andso were many of our party. 

We proceeded nearly due north, through wilderness and many villages andrunning rills; the paths are often left to be choked up by theoverbearing vegetation, and then the course of the rill is adopted asthe only clear passage; it has also this advantage, it preventsfootmarks being followed by enemies: in fact the object is always tomake approaches to human dwellings as difficult as possible, even thehedges around villages sprout out and grow a living fence, and this iscovered by a great mass of a species of calabash with its broad leaves, so that nothing appears of the fence outside. 

_11th January, 1870. _--The people are civil, but uproarious from theexcitement of having never seen strangers before; all visitors from adistance came with their large wooden shields; many of the men arehandsome and tall but the women are plainer than at Bambarré. 

_12th January, 1870. _--Cross the Lolindé, 35 yards and knee deep, flowing to join Luamo far down: dark water. (_13th. _) Through the hillsChimunémuné; we see many albinos and partial lepers and syphilis isprevalent. It is too trying to travel during the rains. 

_14th January, 1870. _--The Muabé palm had taken possession of a broadvalley, and the leaf-stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm and 20 feetlong, had fallen off and blocked up all passage except by one path madeand mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants. In places like thisthe leg goes into elephants' holes up to the thigh and it is grievous;three hours of this slough tired the strongest: a brown stream ranthrough the centre, waist deep, and washed off a little of the adhesivemud. Our path now lay through a river covered with tikatika, a livingvegetable bridge made by a species of glossy leafed grass which feltsitself into a mat capable of bearing a man's weight, but it bends in afoot or fifteen inches every step; a stick six feet long could not reachthe bottom in certain holes we passed. The lotus, or sacred lily, whichgrows in nearly all the shallow waters of this country, sometimesspreads its broad leaves over the bridge so as to lead carelessobservers to think that it is the bridge builder, but the grassmentioned is the real agent. Here it is called Kintéfwétéfwé; onVictoria Nyanza Titatika. 

_15th January, 1870. _--Choleraic purging again came on till all thewater used was boiled, but I was laid up by sheer weakness near the hillChanza. 

_20th and 21st January. 1870. _--Weakness and illness goes on because weget wet so often; the whole party suffers, and they say that they willnever come here again. The Manyango Rivulet has fine sweet water, butthe whole country is smothered with luxuriant vegetation. 

_27th, 29th, and 30th January, 1870. _--Rest from sickness in camp. Thecountry is indescribable from rank jungle of grass, but the roundedhills are still pretty; an elephant alone can pass through it--these arehis head-quarters. The stalks are from half an inch to an inch and ahalf in diameter, reeds clog the feet, and the leaves rub sorely on theface and eyes: the view is generally shut in by this megatherium grass, except when we come to a slope down to a valley or the bed of a rill. 

We came to a village among fine gardens of maize, bananas, ground-nuts, and cassava, but the villagers said, "Go on to next village;" and thismeant, "We don't want you here. " The main body of Mohamad's people wasabout three miles before us, but I was so weak I sat down in the nexthamlet and asked for a hut to rest in. A woman with leprous hands gaveme hers, a nice clean one, and very heavy rain came on: of her ownaccord she prepared dumplings of green maize, pounded and boiled; whichare sweet, for she said that she saw I was hungry. It was excessiveweakness from purging, and seeing that I did not eat for fear of theleprosy, she kindly pressed me: "Eat, you are weak only from hunger;this will strengthen you. " I put it out of her sight, and blessed hermotherly heart. 

I had ere this come to the conclusion that I ought not to risk myselffurther in the rains in my present weakness, for it may result insomething worse, as in Marungu and Liemba. 

The horde mentioned as having passed Bambarré was now somewhere in ourvicinity, and it was impossible to ascertain from the Manyuema where theLualaba lay. 

In going north on 1st February we came to some of this horde belongingto Katomba or Moene-mokaia, who stated that the leader was anxious foradvice as to crossing Lualaba and future movements. He supposed thatthis river was seven days in front of him, and twelve days in front ofus. It is a puzzle from its north-westing and low level: it is possiblyPetherick's Bahr Ghazal. Could get no latitude. 

_2nd February, 1870. _--I propose to cross it, and buy an exploringcanoe, because I am recovering my strength; but we now climb over thebold hills Bininango, and turn south-west towards Katomba to takecounsel: he knows more than anyone else about the country, and hispeople being now scattered everywhere seeking ivory, I do not relishtheir company. 

_3rd February, 1870. _--Caught in a drenching rain, which made me fain tosit, exhausted as I was, under an umbrella for an hour trying to keepthe trunk dry. As I sat in the rain a little tree-frog, about half aninch long, leaped on to a grassy leaf, and began a tune as loud as thatof many birds, and very sweet; it was surprising to hear so much musicout of so small a musician. I drank some rain-water as I felt faint--inthe paths it is now calf deep. I crossed a hundred yards of slush waistdeep in mid channel, and full of holes made by elephants' feet, the pathhedged in by reedy grass, often intertwined and very tripping. Istripped off my clothes on reaching my hut in a village, and a fireduring night nearly dried them. At the same time I rubbed my legs withpalm oil, and in the morning had a delicious breakfast of sour goat'smilk and porridge. 

_5th February, 1870. _--The drenching told on me sorely, and it wasrepeated after we had crossed the good-sized rivulets Mulunkula and manyvillages, and I lay on an enormous boulder under a Muabé palm, and sleptduring the worst of the pelting. I was seven days southing to Mamohela, Katomba's camp, and quite knocked up and exhausted. I went into winterquarters on 7th February, 1870. 

_7th February, 1870. _--This was the camp of the headman of the ivoryhorde now away for ivory. Katomba, as Moene-mokaia is called, was now allkindness. We were away from his Ujijian associates, and he seemed tofollow his natural bent without fear of the other slave-traders, who allhate to see me as a spy on their proceedings. Rest, shelter, and boilingall the water I used, and above all the new species of potato calledNyumbo, much famed among the natives as restorative, soon put me all torights. Katomba supplied me liberally with nyumbo; and, but for aslightly medicinal taste, which is got rid of by boiling in two waters, this vegetable would be equal to English potatoes. 

_11th February, 1870. _--First of all it was proposed to go off to theLualaba in the north-west, in order to procure _Holcus sorghum_ or duraflour, that being, in Arab opinion, nearly equal to wheat, or as theysay "heating, " while the maize flour we were obliged to use was cold orcooling. 

_13th February, 1870. _--I was too ill to go through mud waist deep, so Iallowed Mohamad (who was suffering much) to go away alone in search ofivory. As stated above, shelter and nyumbo proved beneficial. 

_22nd February, 1870. _--Falls between Vira and Baker's Water seen byWanyamwezi. This confirms my conjecture on finding Lualaba at a lowerlevel than Tanganyika. Bin Habib went to fight the Batusi, but they weretoo strong, and he turned. 

_1st March, 1870. _--Visited my Arab friends in their camp for the firsttime to-day. This is Kasessa's country, and the camp is situated betweentwo strong rivulets, while Mamohela is the native name, Mount Bombolastands two miles from it north, and Mount Bolunkela is north-east thesame distance. Wood, water, and grass, the requisites of a camp abound, and the Manyuema bring large supplies of food every day; forty largebaskets of maize for a goat; fowls and bananas and nyumbo very cheap. 

_25th March, 1870. _--Iron bracelets are the common medium of exchange, and coarse beads and cowries: for a copper bracelet three large fowlsare given, and three and a half baskets of maize; one basket three feethigh is a woman's load, and they are very strong. 

The Wachiogoné are a scattered tribe among the Maarabo or Suaheli, butthey retain their distinct identity as a people. 

The Mamba fish has breasts with milk, and utters a cry; its flesh isvery white, it is not the crocodile which goes by the same name, but isprobably the Dugong or Peixe Mulher of the Portuguese(?). Full-grownleeches come on the surface in this wet country. 

Some of Katomba's men returned with forty-three tusks. An animal withshort horns and of a reddish colour is in the north; it is not known tothe Arabs(?). 

Joseph, an Arab from Oman, says that the Simoom is worse in Sham(Yemen?) than in Oman: it blows for three or four hours. Butter eatenlargely is the remedy against its ill effects, and this is also smearedon the body: in Oman a wetted cloth is put over the head, body, andlegs, while this wind blows. 

_1st May, 1870. _--An elephant was killed which had three tusks; all ofgood size. [7]

Rains continued; and mud and mire from the clayey soil of Manyuema weretoo awful to be attempted. 

_24th May, 1870. _--I sent to Bambarré for the cloth and beads I leftthere. A party of Thani's people came south and said that they hadkilled forty Manyuema, and lost four of theirown number; nine villageswere burned, and all this about a single string of beads which a mantried to steal!

_June, 1870. _--Mohamad bin Nassur and Akila's men brought 116 tusks fromthe north, where the people are said to be all good and obliging:Akila's chief man had a large deep ulcer on the foot from the mud. Whenwe had the people here, Kassessa gave ten goats and one tusk to hirethem to avenge a feud in which his elder brother was killed, and theywent; the spoils secured were 31 captives, 60 goats, and about 40Manyuema killed: one slave of the attacking party was killed, and twobadly wounded. Thani's man, Yahood, who was leader in the other case of40 killed, boasted before me of the deed. I said, "You were sent herenot to murder, but to trade;" he replied, "We are sent to murder. " BinNassur said, "The English are always killing people;" I replied, "Yes, but only slavers who do the deeds that were done yesterday. "

Various other tribes sent large presents to the Arabs to avert assaults, and tusks too were offered. 

The rains had continued into June, and fifty-eight inches fell. 

_26th June, 1870. _--Now my people failed me; so, with only threeattendants, Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, I started off to the north-westfor the Lualaba. The numbers of running rivulets to be crossed weresurprising, and at each, for some forty yards, the path had been workedby the feet of passengers into adhesive mud: we crossed fourteen in oneday--some thigh deep; most of them run into the Liya, which we crossed, and it flows to the Lualaba. We passed through many villages, for thepaths all lead through human dwellings. Many people presented bananas, and seemed surprised when I made a small return gift; one man ran afterme with a sugar-cane; I paid for lodgings too: here the Arabs never do. 

_28th June, 1870. _--The driver ants were in millions in some part ofthe way; on this side of the continent they seem less fierce than I havefound them in the west. 

_29th June, 1870. _--At one village musicians with calabashes, havingholes in them, flute-fashion, tried to please me by their vigorousacting, and by beating drums in time. 

_30th June, 1870. _--We passed through the nine villages burned for asingle string of beads, and slept in the village of Malola. 

_July, 1870. _--While I was sleeping quietly here, some trading Arabscamped at Nasangwa's, and at dead of night one was pinned to the earthby a spear; no doubt this was in revenge for relations slain in theforty mentioned: the survivors now wished to run a muck in alldirections against the Manyuema. 

When I came up I proposed to ask the chief if he knew the assassin, andhe replied that he was not sure of him, for he could only conjecture whoit was; but death to all Manyuemas glared from the eyes of half-castesand slaves. Fortunately, before this affair was settled in their way, Imet Mohamad Bogharib coming back from Kasonga's, and he joined inenforcing peace: the traders went off, but let my three people know, what I knew long before, that they hated having a spy in me on theirdeeds. I told some of them who were civil tongued that ivory obtained bybloodshed was unclean evil--"unlucky" as they say: my advice to themwas, "Don't shed human blood, my friends; it has guilt not to be wipedoff by water. " Off they went; and afterwards the bloodthirsty party gotonly one tusk and a half, while another party, which avoided shootingmen, got fifty-four tusks!

From Mohamad's people I learned that the Lualaba was not in the N. W. Course I had pursued, for in fact it flows W. S. W. In another great bend, and they had gone far to the north without seeing it, but the countrywas exceedingly difficult from forest and water. As I had already seen, trees fallen across the path formed a breast-high wall which had to beclimbed over: flooded rivers, breast and neck deep, had to be crossed, the mud was awful, and nothing but villages eight or ten miles apart. 

In the clearances around these villages alone could the sun be seen. Forthe first time in my life my feet failed me, and now having but threeattendants it would have been unwise to go further in that direction. Instead of healing quietly as heretofore, when torn by hard travel, irritable-eating ulcers fastened on both feet; and I limped back toBambarré on 22nd. 

The accounts of Ramadân (who was desired by me to take notes as he wentin the forest) were discouraging, and made me glad I did not go. At onepart, where the tortuous river was flooded, they were five hours in thewater, and a man in a small canoe went before them sounding for placesnot too deep for them, breast and chin deep, and Hassani fell and hurthimself sorely in a hole. The people have goats and sheep, and love themas they do children. 

[Fairly baffled by the difficulties in his way, and sorely troubled bythe demoralised state of his men, who appear not to have been proofagainst the contaminating presence of the Arabs, the Doctor turns backat this point. ]

_6th July, 1870. _--Back to Mamohela, and welcomed by the Arabs, who allapproved of my turning back. Katomba presented abundant provisions forall the way to Bambarré. Before we reached this, Mohamad made a forcedmarch, and Moene-mokaia's people came out drunk: the Arabs assaultedthem, and they ran off. 

_23rd July, 1870. _--The sores on my feet now laid me up asirritable-eating ulcers. If the foot were put to the ground, a dischargeof bloody ichor flowed, and the same discharge happened every night withconsiderable pain, that prevented sleep: the wailing of the slavestortured with these sores is one of the night sounds of a slave-camp:they eat through everything--muscle, tendon, and bone, and often lamepermanently if they do not kill the poor things. Medicines have verylittle effect on such wounds: their periodicity seems to say that theyare allied to fever. The Arabs make a salve of bees'-wax and sulphate ofcopper, and this applied hot, and held on by a bandage affords support, but the necessity of letting the ichor escape renders it a painfulremedy: I had three ulcers, and no medicine. The native plan of supportby means of a stiff leaf or bit of calabash was too irritating, and sothey continued to eat in and enlarge in spite of everything: thevicinity was hot, and the pain increased with the size of the wound. 

_2nd August, 1870. _--An eclipse at midnight: the Moslems called loudlyon Moses. Very cold. 

On _17th August, 1870, _ Monanyembé, the chief who was punished byMohamad Bogharib, lately came bringing two goats; one he gave toMohamad, the other to Moenékuss' son, acknowledging that he had killedhis elder brother: he had killed eleven persons over at Linamo in ourabsence, in addition to those killed in villages on our S. E. When wewere away. It transpired that Kandahara, brother of old Moenékuss, whosevillage is near this, killed three women and a child, and that a tradingman came over from Kasangangayé, and was murdered too, for no reason butto eat his body. Mohamad ordered old Kandahara to bring ten goats andtake them over to Kasangangayé to pay for the murdered man. When theytell of each other's deeds they disclose a horrid state of bloodthirstycallousness. The people over a hill N. N. E. Of this killed a person outhoeing; if a cultivator is alone, he is almost sure of being slain. Somesaid that people in the vicinity, or hyænas, stole the buried dead; butPosho's wife died, and in Wanyamesi fashion was thrown out of campunburied. Mohamad threatened an attack if Manyuema did not ceaseexhuming the dead; it was effectual, neither men nor hyænas touchedher, though exposed now for seven days. 

The head of Moenékuss is said to be preserved in a pot in his house, andall public matters are gravely communicated to it, as if his spiritdwelt therein: his body was eaten, the flesh was removed from the headand eaten too; his father's head is said to be kept also: the foregoingrefers to Bambarré alone. In other districts graves show that sepultureis customary, but here no grave appears: some admit the existence of thepractice here; others deny it. In the Metamba country adjacent to theLualaba, a quarrel with a wife often ends in the husband killing her andeating her heart, mixed up in a huge mess of goat's flesh: this has thecharm character. Fingers are taken as charms in other parts, but inBambarré alone is the depraved taste the motive for cannibalism. 

_Bambarré, 18th August, 1870. _--I learn from Josut and Moenepembé, whohave been to Katañga and beyond, that there is a Lake N. N. W. Of thecopper mines, and twelve days distant; it is called Chibungo, and issaid to be large. Seven days west of Katañga flows another Lualaba, the dividing line between Rua and Lunda or Londa; it is very large, and as the Lufira flows into Chibungo, it is probable that the LualabaWest and the Lufira form the Lake. Lualaba West and Lufira rise byfountains south of Katañga, three or four days off. Luambai and Lungafountains are only about ten miles distant from Lualaba West andLufira fountains: a mound rises between them, the most remarkable inAfrica. Were this spot in Armenia it would serve exactly thedescription of the garden of Eden in Genesis, with its four rivers, the Gihon, Pison, Hiddekel, and Euphrates; as it is, it possibly gaveoccasion to the story told to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva inthe City of Saïs, about two hills with conical tops, Crophi and Mophi. "Midway between them, " said he, "are the fountains of the Nile, fountains which it is impossible to fathom: half the water runsnorthward into Egypt; half to the south towards Ethiopia. "

Four fountains rising so near to each other would readily be supposed tohave one source, and half the water flowing into the Nile and the otherhalf to the Zambesi, required but little imagination to originate, seeing the actual visitor would not feel bound to say how the divisionwas effected. He could only know the fact of waters rising at one spot, and separating to flow north and south. The conical tops to the moundlook like invention, as also do the names. 

A slave, bought on Lualaba East, came from Lualaba West in about twelvedays: these two Lualabas may form the loop depicted by Ptolemy, andupper and lower Tanganyika be a third arm of the Nile. 

Patience is all I can exercise: these irritable ulcers hedge me in now, as did my attendants in June, but all will be for the best, for it is inProvidence and not in me. 

The watershed is between 700 and 800 miles long from west to east, orsay from 22° or 23° to 34° or 35° East longitude. Parts of it areenormous sponges; in other parts innumerable rills unite into rivulets, which again form rivers--Lufira, for instance, has nine rivulets, andLekulwé other nine. The convex surface of the rose of a gardenwatering-can is a tolerably apt similitude, as the rills do not springoff the face of it, and it is 700 miles across the circle; but in thenumbers of rills coming out at different heights on the slope, there isa faint resemblance, and I can at present think of no other example. 

I am a little thankful to old Nile for so hiding his head that all"theoretical discoverers" are left out in the cold. With all realexplorers I have a hearty sympathy, and I have some regret at beingobliged, in a manner compelled, to speak somewhat disparagingly of theopinions formed by my predecessors. The work of Speke and Grant is partof the history of this region, and since the discovery of the sourcesof the Nile was asserted so positively, it seems necessary to explain, not offensively, I hope, wherein their mistake lay, in making a somewhatsimilar claim. My opinions may yet be shown to be mistaken too, but atpresent I cannot conceive how. When Speke discovered Victoria Nyanza in1858, he at once concluded that therein lay the sources of the Nile. Hiswork after that was simply following a foregone conclusion, and as soonas he and Grant looked towards the Victoria Nyanza, they turned theirbacks on the Nile fountains; so every step of their splendid achievementof following the river down took them further and further away from theCaput Nili. When it was perceived that the little river that leaves theNyanza, though they called it the White Nile, would not account for thatgreat river, they might have gone west and found headwaters (as theLualaba) to which it can bear no comparison. Taking their White Nile at80 or 90 yards, or say 100 yards broad, the Lualaba, far south of thelatitude of its point of departure, shows an average breadth of from4000 to 6000 yards, and always deep. 

Considering that more than sixteen hundred years have elapsed sincePtolemy put down the results of early explorers, and emperors, kings, philosophers--all the great men of antiquity in short longed to know thefountains whence flowed the famous river, and longed invain--exploration does not seem to have been very becoming to the othersex either. Madame Tinné came further up the river than the centurionssent by Nero Cæsar, and showed such indomitable pluck as to reflecthonour on her race. I know nothing about her save what has appeared inthe public papers, but taking her exploration along with what was doneby Mrs. Baker, no long time could have elapsed before the laurels forthe modern re-discovery of the sources of the Nile should have beenplucked by the ladies. In 1841 the Egyptian Expedition under D'Arnauldand Sabatier reached lat. 4° 42': this was a great advance into theinterior as compared with Linant in 1827, 13° 30' N. , and even on theexplorations of Jomard(?); but it turned when nearly a thousand milesfrom the sources. 

[The subjoined account of the soko--which is in all probability anentirely new species of chimpanzee, and _not_ the gorilla, isexceedingly interesting, and no doubt Livingstone had plenty of storiesfrom which to select. Neither Susi nor Chuma can identify the soko ofManyuema with the gorilla, as we have it stuffed in the British Museum. They think, however, that the soko is quite as large and as strong asthe gorilla, judging by the specimens shown to them, although they couldhave decided with greater certainty, if the natives had not invariablybrought in the dead sokos disembowelled; as they point out, and as weimagine from Dr. Livingstone's description, the carcase would thenappear much less bulky. Livingstone gives an animated sketch of a sokohunt. ]

_24th August, 1870. _--Four gorillas or sokos were killed yesterday: anextensive grass-burning forced them out of their usual haunt, and comingon the plain they were speared. They often go erect, but place the handon the head, as if to steady the body. When seen thus, the soko is anungainly beast. The most sentimental young lady would not call him a"dear, " but a bandy-legged, pot-bellied, low-looking villain, without aparticle of the gentleman in him. Other animals, especially theantelopes, are graceful, and it is pleasant to see them, either at restor in motion: the natives also are well made, lithe and comely tobehold, but the soko, if large, would do well to stand for a picture ofthe Devil. 

He takes away my appetite by his disgusting bestiality of appearance. His light-yellow face shows off his ugly whiskers, and faint apology fora beard; the forehead villainously low, with high ears, is well in theback-ground of the great dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, butthe canines show the beast by their large development. The hands, orrather the fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feetis yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it leavesthe impression that eating sokos was the first stage by which theyarrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is delicious. The soko isrepresented by some to be extremely knowing, successfully stalking menand women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up treeswith them--he seems to be amused by the sight of the young native in hisarms, but comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he liftsthat, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would cling closelyto the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting out honey from a tree, and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let himgo: another man was hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko:it seized the spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who calledto his companions, "Soko has caught me, " the soko bit off the ends ofhis fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now alive at Bambarré. 

The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one can stalkhim in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it is always in theback; when surrounded by men and nets, he is generally speared in theback too, otherwise he is not a very formidable beast: he is nothing, ascompared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, butis more like a man unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use hiscanine teeth, which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come downin the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would be unknownbut for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their nearest approach tospeech. A man hoeing was stalked by a soko, and seized; he roared out, but the soko giggled and grinned, and left him as if he had done it inplay. A child caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched andscratched, and let fall. 

The soko kills the leopard occasionally, by seizing both paws, andbiting them so as to disable them, he then goes up a tree, groans overhis wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the leopard dies: at othertimes, both soko and leopard die. The lion kills him at once, andsometimes tears his limbs off, but does not eat him. The soko eats noflesh--small bananas are his dainties, but not maize. His food consistsof wild fruits, which abound: one, Staféné, or Manyuema Mamwa, is likelarge sweet sop but indifferent in taste and flesh. The soko bringsforth at times twins. A very large soko was seen by Mohamad's hunterssitting picking his nails; they tried to stalk him, but he vanished. Some Manyuema think that their buried dead rise as sokos, and one waskilled with holes in his ears, as if he had been a man. He is verystrong and fears guns but not spears: he never catches women. 

Sokos collect together, and make a drumming noise, some say with hollowtrees, then burst forth into loud yells which are well imitated by thenatives' embryotic music. If a man has no spear the soko goes awaysatisfied, but if wounded he seizes the wrist, lops off the fingers, andspits them out, slaps the cheeks of his victim, and bites withoutbreaking the skin: he draws out a spear (but never uses it), and takessome leaves and stuffs them into his wound to staunch the blood; he doesnot wish an encounter with an armed man. He sees women do him no harm, and never molests them; a man without a spear is nearly safe from him. They beat hollow trees as drums with hands, and then scream as music toit; when men hear them, they go to the sokos; but sokos never go to menwith hostility. Manyuema say, "Soko is a man, and nothing bad in him. "

They live in communities of about ten, each having his own female; anintruder from another camp is beaten off with their fists and loudyells. If one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on theground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A male oftencarries a child, especially if they are passing from one patch of forestto another over a grassy space; he then gives it to the mother. 

I now spoke with my friend Mohamad, and he offered to go with me to seeLualaba from Luamo, but I explained that merely to see and measure itsdepth would not do, I must see whither it went. This would require anumber of his people in lieu of my deserters, and to take them away fromhis ivory trade, which at present is like gold digging, I must makeamends, and I offered him 2000 rupees, and a gun worth 700 rupees, R. 2700 in all, or 270_l. _ He agreed, and should he enable me to finish upmy work in one trip down Lualaba, and round to Lualaba West, it would bea great favour. 

[How severely he felt the effects of the terrible illnesses of the lasttwo years may be imagined by some few words here, and it must ever beregretted that the conviction which he speaks of was not acted up to. ]

The severe pneumonia in Marunga, the choleraic complaint in Manyuema, and now irritable ulcers warn me to retire while life lasts. Mohamad'speople went north, and east, and west, from Kasonga's: sixteen marchesnorth, ten ditto west, and four ditto E. And S. E. The average march was6-1/2 hours, say 12' about 200' N. And W. , lat. Of Kasongo, say 4°south. They may have reached 1°, 2° S. They were now in the Baléggécountry, and turned. It was all dense forest, they never saw the sunexcept when at a village, and then the villages were too far apart. Thepeople were very fond of sheep, which they call ngombé, or ox, and tusksare never used. They went off to where an elephant had formerly beenkilled, and brought the tusks rotted and eaten or gnawed by "Déré" (?)--aRodent, probably the _Aulocaudatus Swindermanus_. Three large riverswere crossed, breast and chin deep; in one they were five hours, and aman in a small canoe went ahead sounding for water capable of beingwaded. Much water and mud in the forest. This report makes me thankful Idid not go, for I should have seen nothing, and been worn out by fatigueand mud. They tell me that the River Metunda had black water, and tooktwo hours to cross it, breast deep. They crossed about forty smallerrivers over the River Mohunga, breast deep. The River of Mbité also islarge. All along Lualaba and Metumbé the sheep have hairy dew-laps, nowool, Tartar breed (?), small thin tails. 

A broad belt of meadow-land, with no trees, lies along Lualaba, beyondthat it is all dense forest, and trees so large, that one lying acrossthe path is breast high: clearances exist only around the villages. Thepeople are very expert smiths and weavers of the "Lamba, " and make finelarge spears, knives, and needles. Market-places, called "Tokos, " arenumerous all along Lualaba; to these the Barua of the other bank comedaily in large canoes, bringing grass-cloth, salt, flour, cassava, fowls, goats, pigs, and slaves. The women are beautiful, with straightnoses, and well-clothed; when the men of the districts are at war, thewomen take their goods to market as if at peace and are never molested:all are very keen traders, buying one thing with another, and changingback again, and any profit made is one of the enjoyments of life. 

I knew that my deserters hoped to be fed by Mohamad Bogharib when weleft the camp at Mamohela, but he told them that he would not have them;this took them aback, but they went and lifted his ivory for him, andwhen a parley was thus brought about, talked him over, saying that theywould go to me, and do all I desired: they never came, but, as no oneelse would take them, I gave them three loads to go to Bambarré; therethey told Mohamad that I would not give them beads, and they did notlike to steal; they were now trying to get his food by lies. I invitedthem three times to come and take beads, but having supplies of foodfrom the camp women, they hoped to get the upper hand with me, and takewhat they liked by refusing to carry or work. Mohamad spoke long tothem, but speaking mildly makes them imagine that the spokesman isafraid of them. They kept away from my work and would fain joinMohamad's, but he won't have them. I gave beads to all but theringleaders. Their conduct looks as if a quarrel had taken place betweenus, but no such excuse have they. 

I am powerless, as they have left me, and think that they may do as theylike, and the "Manyuema are bad" is the song. Their badness consists inbeing dreadfully afraid of guns, and the Arabs can do just as they likewith them and their goods. If spears alone were used the Manyuema wouldbe considered brave, for they fear no one, though he has many spears. They tell us truly "that were it not for our guns not one of us wouldreturn to our own country. " Moene-mokaia killed two Arab agents, and tooktheir guns; this success led to their asserting, in answer to theremonstrances of the women, "We shall take their goats, guns, and womenfrom them. " The chief, in reporting the matter to Moenemger(?) at Luamo, said, "The Englishman told my people to go away as he did not likefighting, but my men were filled with 'malofu, ' or palm-toddy, andrefused to their own hurt. " Elsewhere they made regular preparation tohave a fight with Dugumbé's people, just to see who was strongest--theywith their spears and wooden shields, and the Arabs with what inderision they called tobacco-pipes (guns). They killed eight or nineArabs. 

No traders seem ever to have come in before this. Banna brought copperand skins for tusks, and the Babisa and Baguha coarse beads. The Baviraare now enraged at seeing Ujijians pass into their ivory field, and nowonder; they took the tusks which cost them a few strings of beads, andreceived weight for weight in beads, thick brass wire, and loads ofcalico. 

FOOTNOTES:

[7] Susi and Chuma say that the third tusk grew out from the base ofthe trunk, that is, midway between the other two. --ED. 

CHAPTER III. 

 Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. "A drop of comfort. " Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer. Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a great trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phoenix. Tedious delays. The bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of Manyuema against Arabs. The "Sassassa bird. " The disease "Safura. "

Bambarré, _25th August, 1870. _--One of my waking dreams is that thelegendary tales about Moses coming up into Inner Ethiopia with Merr hisfoster-mother, and founding a city which he called in her honour"Meroe, " may have a substratum of fact. He was evidently a man oftranscendent genius, and we learn from the speech of St. Stephen that"he was learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and was mighty inwords and in deeds. " His deeds must have been well known in Egypt, for"he supposed that his brethren would have understood how that God by Hishand would deliver them, but they understood not. " His supposition couldnot be founded on his success in smiting a single Egyptian; he was toogreat a man to be elated by a single act of prowess, but his success ona large scale in Ethiopia afforded reasonable grounds for believing thathis brethren would be proud of their countryman, and disposed to followhis leadership, but they were slaves. The notice taken of the matter byPharaoh showed that he was eyed by the great as a dangerous, if notpowerful, man. He "dwelt" in Midian for some time before his gallantbearing towards the shepherds by the well, commended him to the priestor prince of the country. An uninteresting wife, and the want ofintercourse with kindred spirits during the long forty years' solitudeof a herdsman's life, seem to have acted injuriously on his spirits, andit was not till he had with Aaron struck terror into the Egyptian mind, that the "man Moses" again became "very great in the eyes of Pharaoh andhis servants. " The Ethiopian woman whom he married could scarcely be thedaughter of Renel or Jethro, for Midian was descended from Keturah, Abraham's concubine, and they were never considered Cushite orEthiopian. If he left his wife in Egypt she would now be some fifty orsixty years old, and all the more likely to be despised by the proudprophetess Miriam as a daughter of Ham. 

I dream of discovering some monumental relics of Meroe, and if anythingconfirmatory of sacred history does remain, I pray to be guidedthereunto. If the sacred chronology would thereby be confirmed, I wouldnot grudge the toil and hardships, hunger and pain, I have endured--theirritable ulcers would only be discipline. 

Above the fine yellow clay schist of Manyuema the banks of Tanganyikareveal 50 feet of shingle mixed with red earth; above this at some partsgreat boulders lie; after this 60 feet of fine clay schist, then 5strata of gravel underneath, with a foot stratum of schist between them. The first seam of gravel is about 2 feet, the second 4 feet, and thelowest of all about 30 feet thick. The fine schist was formed in stillwater, but the shingle must have been produced in stormy troubled seasif not carried hither and thither by ice and at different epochs. 

This Manyuema country is unhealthy, not so much from fever as fromdebility of the whole system, induced by damp, cold, and indigestion:this general weakness is ascribed by some to maize being the commonfood, it shows itself in weakness of bowels and choleraic purging. Thismay be owing to bad water, of which there is no scarcity, but it is soimpregnated with dead vegetable matter as to have the colour of tea. Irritable ulcers fasten on any part abraded by accident, and it seems tobe a spreading fungus, for the matter settling on any part near becomesa fresh centre of propagation. The vicinity of the ulcer is very tender, and it eats in frightfully if not allowed rest. Many slaves die of it, and its periodical discharges of bloody ichor makes me suspect it to bea development of fever. I have found lunar caustic useful: a plaister ofwax, and a little finely-ground sulphate of copper is used by the Arabs, and so is cocoa-nut oil and butter. These ulcers are excessivelyintractable, there is no healing them before they eat into the bone, especially on the shins. 

Rheumatism is also common, and it cuts the natives off. The traders fearthese diseases, and come to a stand if attacked, in order to use rest inthe cure. "Taema, " or Tape-worm, is frequently met with, and no remedyis known among the Arabs and natives for it. 

[Searching in his closely-written pocket-books we find many littlemementoes of his travels; such, for instance, as two or three tsetseflies pressed between the leaves of one book; some bees, some leaves andmoths in another, but, hidden away in the pocket of the note-book whichLivingstone used during the longest and most painful illness he everunderwent lies a small scrap of printed paper which tells a tale in itsown simple way. On one side there is written in his well-known hand:--]

 "Turn over and see a drop of comfort found when suffering from irritable eating ulcers on the feet in Manyuema, August, 1870. "

[On the reverse we see that the scrap was evidently snipped off a listof books advertised at the end of some volume which, with the tea andother things sent to Ujiji, had reached him before setting out on thisperilous journey. The "drop of comfort" is as follows:--]

 "A NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE ZAMBESI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES, "And the discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. 

 "_Fifth Thousand. With Map and Illustrations_. 8vo. 21s. 

 "'Few achievements in our day have made a greater impression than that of the adventurous missionary who unaided crossed the Continent of Equatorial Africa. His unassuming simplicity, his varied intelligence, his indomitable pluck, his steady religious purpose, form a combination of qualities rarely found in one man. By common consent, Dr. Livingstone has come to be regarded as one of the most remarkable travellers of his own or of any other age. '--_British Quarterly Review_. "

[The kindly pen of the reviewer served a good turn when there was "nomedicine" but the following:--]

I was at last advised to try malachite, rubbed down with water on astone, and applied with a feather: this is the only thing that has anybeneficial effect. 

_9th September, 1870. _--A Londa slave stole ten goats from the Manyuema;he was bound, but broke loose, and killed two goats yesterday. He wasgiven to the Manyuema. The Balonda evidently sold their criminals only. He was shorn of his ears and would have been killed, but Monangoi said:"Don't let the blood of a freeman touch our soil. "

_26th September, 1870. _--I am able now to report the ulcers healing. Foreighty days I have been completely laid up by them, and it will be longere the lost substance will be replaced. They kill many slaves; and anepidemic came to us which carried off thirty in our small camp. [8]

[We come to a very important note under the next date. It may benecessary to remind the reader that when Livingstone left theneighbourhood of Lake Nyassa and bent his steps northwards, he believedthat the "Chambezé" River, which the natives reported to be ahead ofhim, was in reality the Zambezi, for he held in his hand a mapmanufactured at home, and so conveniently manipulated as to clear up agreat difficulty by simply inserting "New Zambezi" in the place of theChambezé. As we now see, Livingstone handed back this addledgeographical egg to its progenitor, who, we regret to say, has not onlysmashed it in wrath, but has treated us to so much of its savour in apamphlet written against the deceased explorer, that few will care toturn over its leaves. 

However, the African traveller has a warning held up before him whichmay be briefly summed up in a caution to be on the look out for constantrepetitions in one form or another of the same name. Endless confusionhas arisen from Nyassas and Nyanzas, from Chiroas and Kiroas andShirwas, to say nothing of Zambesis and Ohambezés. The natives are justas prone to perpetuate Zambezi or Lufira in Africa as we are to multiplyour Avons and Ouses in England. ]

_4th October, 1870. _--A trading party from Ujiji reports an epidemicraging between the coast and Ujiji, and very fatal. Syde bin Habib andDugumbé are coming, and they have letters and perhaps people for me, soI remain, though the irritable ulcers are well-nigh healed. I fear thatmy packet for the coast may have fared badly, for the Lewalé has keptMusa Kamaal by him, so that no evidence against himself or the dishonestman Musa bin Saloom should be given: my box and guns, with despatches, Ifear will never be sent. Zahor, to whom I gave calico to pay carriers, has been sent off to Lobemba. 

Mohamad sowed rice yesterday, and has to send his people (who wereunsuccessful among the Balégga) away to the Metambé, where they gotivory before. 

I cannot understand very well what a "Theoretical Discoverer" is. Ifanyone got up and declared in a public meeting that he was thetheoretical discoverer of the philosopher's stone, or of perpetualmotion for watches, should we not mark him as a little wrong in thehead? So of the Nile sources. The Portuguese crossed the Chambezé someseventy years before I did, but to them it was a branch of the Zambeziand nothing more. Cooley put it down as the New Zambesi, and made it runbackwards, up-hill, between 3000 and 4000 feet! I was misled by thesimilarity of names and a map, to think it the eastern branch of theZambezi. I was told that it formed a large water in the south-west, thisI readily believed to be the Liambai, in the Barotsé Valley, and it tookme eighteen months of toil to come back again to the Chambezé in LakeBangweolo, and work out the error into which I was led--twenty-twomonths elapsed ere I got back to the point whence I set out to exploreChambezé, Bangweolo, Luapula, Moero, and Lualaba. I spent two full yearsat this work, and the Chief Casembe was the first to throw light on thesubject by saying, "It is the same water here as in the Chambezé, thesame in Moero and Lualaba, and one piece of water is just like another. Will you draw out calico from it that you wish to see it? As your chiefdesired you to see Bangweolo, go to it, and if in going north you see atravelling party, join it; if not, come back to me, and I will send yousafely by my path along Moero. "

The central Lualaba I would fain call the Lake River Webb; the western, the Lake River Young. The Lufira and Lualaba West form a Lake, thenative name of which, "Chibungo, " must give way to Lake Lincoln. I wishto name the fountain of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, PalmerstonFountain, and adding that of Sir Bartle Frere to the fountain of Lufira, three names of men who have done more to abolish slavery and theslave-trade than any of their contemporaries. 

[Through the courtesy of the Earl of Derby we are able to insert aparagraph here which occurs in a despatch written to Her Majesty'sForeign Office by Dr. Livingstone a few weeks before his death. Hetreats more fully in it upon the different names that he gave to themost important rivers and lakes which he discovered, and we see how hecherished to the last the fond memory of old well-tried friendships, andthe great examples of men like President Lincoln and Lord Palmerston. ]

"I have tried to honour the name of the good Lord Palmerston, in fondremembrance of his long and unwearied labour for the abolition of theSlave Trade; and I venture to place the name of the good and nobleLincoln on the Lake, in gratitude to him who gave freedom to 4, 000, 000of slaves. These two great men are no longer among us; but it pleasesme, here in the wilds, to place, as it were, my poor little garland oflove on their tombs. Sir Bartle Frere having accomplished the grand workof abolishing slavery in Scindiah, Upper India, deserves the gratitudeof every lover of human kind. 

"Private friendship guided me in the selection of other names wheredistinctive epithets were urgently needed. 'Paraffin' Young, one of myteachers in chemistry, raised himself to be a merchant prince by hisscience and art, and has shed pure white light in many lowly cottages, and in some rich palaces. Leaving him and chemistry, I went away to tryand bless others. I, too, have shed light of another kind, and am fainto believe that I have performed a small part in the grand revolutionwhich our Maker has been for ages carrying on, by multitudes ofconscious, and many unconscious agents, all over the world. Young'sfriendship never faltered. 

"Oswell and Webb were fellow-travellers, and mighty hunters. Too muchengrossed myself with mission-work to hunt, except for the children'slarder, when going to visit distant tribes, I relished the sight of fairstand-up fights by my friends with the large denizens of the forest, andadmired the true Nimrod class for their great courage, truthfulness, andhonour. Being a warm lover of natural history, the entire butcher tribe, bent only on making 'a bag, ' without regard to animal suffering, havenot a single kindly word from me. An Ambonda man, named Mokantju, toldOswell and me in 1851 that the Liambai and Kafué rose as one fountainand then separated, but after a long course came together again in theZambezi above Zumbo. "

_8th October, 1870. _--Mbarawa and party came yesterday from Katomba atMamohela. He reports that Jangeongé (?) with Moeneokela's men had beenkilling people of the Metamba or forest, and four of his people wereslain. He intended fighting, hence his desire to get rid of me when Iwent north: he got one and a half tusks, but little ivory, but Katomba'sparty got fifty tusks; Abdullah had got two tusks, and had also beenfighting, and Katomba had sent a fighting party down to Lolindé; plunderand murder is Ujijian trading. Mbarawa got his ivory on the Lindi, or ashe says, "Urindi, " which has black water, and is very large: an arrowcould not be shot across its stream, 400 or 500 yards wide, it had to becrossed by canoes, and goes into Lualaba. It is curious that all thinkit necessary to say to me, "The Manyuema are bad, very bad;" the Baléggawill be let alone, because they can fight, and we shall hear nothing oftheir badness. 

_10th October, 1870. _--I came out of my hut to-day, after being confinedto it since the 22nd July, or eighty days, by irritable ulcers on thefeet. The last twenty days I suffered from fever, which reduced mystrength, taking away my voice, and purging me. My appetite was good, but the third mouthful of any food caused nausea and vomiting--purgingtook place and profuse sweating; it was choleraic, and how many Manyuemadied of it we could not ascertain. While this epidemic raged here, weheard of cholera terribly severe on the way to the coast. I am thankfulto feel myself well. 

Only one ulcer is open, the size of a split pea: malachite was theremedy most useful, but the beginning of the rains may have helped thecure, as it does to others; copper rubbed down is used when malachitecannot be had. We expect Syde bin Habib soon: he will take to the river, and I hope so shall I. The native traders reached people who had hornsof oxen, got from the left bank of the Lualaba. Katomba's people gotmost ivory, namely, fifty tusks; the others only four. The Metamba orforest is of immense extent, and there is room for much ivory to bepicked up at five or seven bracelets of copper per tusk, if the slavessent will only be merciful. The nine villages destroyed, and 100 menkilled, by Katomba's slaves at Nasangwa's, were all about a string ofbeads fastened to a powder horn, which a Manyuema man tried in vain tosteal!

Katomba gets twenty-five of the fifty tusks brought by his people. Weexpect letters, and perhaps men by Syde bin Habib. No news from thecoast had come to Ujiji, save a rumour that some one was building alarge house at Bagamoio, but whether French or English no one can say:possibly the erection of a huge establishment on the mainland may be away of laboriously proving that it is more healthy than the island. Itwill take a long time to prove by stone and lime that the higher lands, 200 miles inland, are better still, both for longevity and work. [9] I amin agony for news from home; all I feel sure of now is that my friendswill all wish me to complete my task. I join in the wish now, as betterthan doing it in vain afterwards. 

The Manyuema hoeing is little better than scraping the soil, and cuttingthrough the roots of grass and weeds, by a horizontal motion of the hoeor knife; they leave the roots of maize, ground-nuts, sweet potatoes, and dura, to find their way into the rich soft soil, and well theysucceed, so there is no need for deep ploughing: the ground-nuts andcassava hold their own against grass for years, and bananas, if clearedof weeds, yield abundantly. Mohamad sowed rice just outside the campwithout any advantage being secured by the vicinity of a rivulet, and ityielded forone measure of seed one hundred and twenty measures ofincrease. This season he plants along the rivulet called "Bondé, " and onthe damp soil. 

The rain-water does not percolate far, for the clay retains it about twofeet beneath the surface: this is a cause of unhealthiness to man. Fowlsand goats have been cut off this year in large numbers by an epidemic. 

The visits of the Ujijian traders must be felt by the Manyuema to be asevere infliction, for the huts are appropriated, and no leave asked:firewood, pots, baskets, and food are used without scruple, and anythingthat pleases is taken away; usually the women flee into the forest, andreturn to find the whole place a litter of broken food. I tried to paythe owners of the huts in which I slept, but often in vain, for they hidin the forest, and feared to come near. It was common for old men tocome forward to me with a present of bananas as I passed, uttering withtrembling accents, "Bolongo, Bolongo!" ("Friendship, Friendship!"), andif I stopped to make a little return present, others ran for plantainsor palm-toddy. The Arabs' men ate up what they demanded, without oneword of thanks, and turned round to me and said, "They are bad, don'tgive them anything. " "Why, what badness is there in giving food?" Ireplied. "Oh! they like you, but hate us. " One man gave me an iron ring, and all seemed inclined to be friendly, yet they are undoubtedlybloodthirsty to other Manyuema, and kill each other. 

I am told that journeying inland the safe way to avoid tsetse in goingto Meréré's is to go to Mdongé, Makindé, Zungoméro, Masapi, Irundu, Nyangoré, then turn north to the Nyannugams, and thence to Nyémbé, andso on south to Meréré's. A woman chief lies in the straight way toMeréré, but no cattle live in the land. Another insect lights on theanimals, and when licked off bites the tongue, or breeds, and is fatalas well as tsetse: it is larger in size. Tipo Tipo and Syde bin Alicome to Nyémbé, thence to Nsama's, cross Lualaba at Mpwéto's, followleft bank of that river till they cross the next Lualaba, and so intoLunda of Matiamvo. Much ivory may be obtained by this course, and itshows enterprise. Syde bin Habib and Dugumbé will open up the Lualabathis year, and I am hoping to enter the West Lualaba, or Young's River, and if possible go up to Katanga. The Lord be my guide and helper. Ifeel the want of medicine strongly, almost as much as the want of men. 

_16th October, 1870. _--Moenemgoi, the chief, came to tell me thatMonamyembo had sent five goats to Lohombo to get a charm to kill him. "Would the English and Kolokolo (Mohamad) allow him to be killed whilethey were here?" I said that it was a false report, but he believes itfirmly: Monamyembo sent his son to assure us that he was slandered, butthus quarrels and bloodshed feuds arise!

The great want of the Manyuema is national life, of this they have none:each headman is independent of every other. Of industry they have nolack, and the villagers are orderly towards each other, but they go nofurther. If a man of another district ventures among them, it is at hisperil; he is not regarded with more favour as a Manyuema than one of aherd of buffaloes is by the rest: and he is almost sure to be killed. 

Moenékuss had more wisdom than his countrymen: his eldest son went overto Monamyembo (one of his subjects) and was there murdered by five spearwounds. The old chief went and asked who had slain his son. Allprofessed ignorance, whilst some suggested "perhaps the Bahombo did it, "so he went off to them, but they also denied it and laid it at the doorof Monamdenda, from whom he got the same reply when he arrived at hisplace--no one knew, and so the old man died. This, though he washeartbroken, was called witchcraft by Monamyembo. Eleven people weremurdered, and after this cruel man was punished he sent a goat with theconfession that he had killed Moenékuss' son. This son had some of thefather's wisdom: the others he never could get to act like men of sense. 

_19th October, 1870. _--Bambarré. The ringleading deserters sent Chuma tosay that they were going with the people of Mohamad (who left to-day), to the Metamba, but I said that I had nought to say to them. They wouldgo now to the Metamba, whom, on deserting, they said they so muchfeared, and they think nothing of having left me to go with only threeattendants, and get my feet torn to pieces in mud and sand. Theyprobably meant to go back to the women at Mamohela, who fed them in theabsence of their husbands. They were told by Mohamad that they must notfollow his people, and he gave orders to bind them, and send them backif they did. They think that no punishment will reach them whatever theydo: they are freemen, and need not work or do anything but beg. "English, " they call themselves, and the Arabs fear them, though theeagerness with which they engaged in slave-hunting showed them to begenuine niggers. 

_20th October, 1870. _--The first heavy rain of this season fellyesterday afternoon. It is observable that the permanent halt to whichthe Manyuema have come is not affected by the appearance of superior menamong them: they are stationary, and improvement is unknown. Moenékusspaid smiths to teach his sons, and they learned to work in copper andiron, but he never could get them to imitate his own generous andobliging deportment to others; he had to reprove them perpetually formean shortsightedness, and when he died he virtually left no successor, for his sons are both narrowminded, mean, shortsighted creatures, without dignity or honour. All they can say of their forefathers is thatthey came from Lualaba up Luamo, then to Luelo, and thence here. Thename seems to mean "forest people"--_Manyuema_. 

The party under Hassani crossed the Logumba at Kanyingéré's, and wentN. And N. N. E. They found the country becoming more and more mountainous, till at last, approaching Moreré, it was perpetually up and down. Theyslept at a village on the top, and could send for water to the bottomonly once, it took so much time to descend and ascend. The rivers allflowed into Kereré or Lower Tanganyika. There is a hot fountain whosewater could not be touched nor stones stood upon. The Balégga were veryunfriendly, and collected in thousands. "We come to buy ivory, " saidHassani, "and if there is none we go away. " "Nay, " shouted they, "youcome to die here!" and then they shot with arrows; when musket-ballswere returned they fled, and would not come to receive the captives. 

_25th October, 1870. _--Bambarré. In this journey I have endeavoured tofollow with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been aneven one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left, though myroute has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, hunger, and toil weremet with the full conviction that I was right in persevering to make acomplete work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. Mine hasbeen a calm, hopeful endeavour to do the work that has been given me todo, whether I succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death inpursuing what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or theother. I had a strong presentiment during the first three years that Ishould never live through the enterprise, but it weakened as I came nearto the end of the journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidenceof the great Moses having visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me, I may say, for if I could bring to light anything to confirm the SacredOracles, I should not grudge one whit all the labour expended. I have togo down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up the Western orYoung's Lake River to Katanga head waters and then retire. I pray thatit may be to my native home. 

Syde bin Habib, Dugumbé, Juma Merikano, Abdullah Masendi are coming inwith 700 muskets, and an immense store of beads, copper, &c. They willcross Lualaba and trade west of it: I wait for them because they mayhave letters for me. 

_28th October, 1870. _--Moenemokata, who has travelled further than mostArabs, said to me, "If a man goes with a good-natured, civil tongue, hemay pass through the worst people in Africa unharmed:" this is true, buttime also is required: one must not run through a country, but give thepeople time to become acquainted with you, and let their first fearssubside. 

_29th October, 1870. _--The Manyuema buy their wives from each other; apretty girl brings ten goats. I saw one brought home to-day; she camejauntily with but one attendant, and her husband walking behind. Theystop five days, then go back and remain other five days at home: thenthe husband fetches her again. Many are pretty, and have perfect formsand limbs. 

_31st October, 1870. _--Monangoi, of Luamo, married to the sister ofMoenékuss, came some time ago to beg that Kanyingeré might be attackedby Mohamad's people: no fault has he, "but he is bad. " Monangoi, thechief here, offered two tusks to effect the same thing; on refusal, hesends the tusks to Katomba, and may get his countryman spoiled by him. "He is bad, " is all they can allege as a reason. Meantime this chiefhere caught a slave who escaped, a prisoner from Moene-mokia's, and soldhim or her to Moene-mokia for thirty spears and some knives; when askedabout this captive, he said, "She died:" it was simply theft, but hedoes not consider himself bad. 

_2nd November, 1870. _--The plain without trees that flanks the Lualabaon the right bank, called Mbuga, is densely peopled, and theinhabitants are all civil and friendly. From fifty to sixty large canoescome over from the left bank daily to hold markets; these people too"are good, " but the dwellers in the Metamba or dense forest aretreacherous and murder a single person without scruple: the dead body iseasily concealed, while on the plain all would become aware of it. 

I long with intense desire to move on and finish my work, I have also anexcessive wish to find anything that may exist proving the visit of thegreat Moses and the ancient kingdom of Tirhaka, but I pray give me justwhat pleases Thee my Lord, and make me submissive to Thy will in allthings. 

I received information about Mr. Young's search trip up the Shiré andNyassa only in February 1870, and now take the first opportunity ofoffering hearty thanks in a despatch to Her Majesty's Government, andall concerned in kindly inquiring after my fate. 

Musa and his companions were fair average specimens for heartlessnessand falsehood of the lower classes of Mohamadans in East Africa. When wewere on the Shiré we used to swing the ship into mid-stream every night, in order to let the air which was put in motion by the water, pass fromend to end. Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water one morning, inorder to swim off for a boat, and was seized by a crocodile, the poorfellow held up his hand imploringly, but Musa and the rest allowed himto perish. On my denouncing his heartlessness, Musa-replied, "Well, noone tell him go in there. " When at Senna a slave woman was seized by acrocodile: four Makololo rushed in unbidden, and rescued her, thoughthey knew nothing about her: from long intercourse with both Johanna menand Makololo I take these incidents as typical of the two races. Thoseof mixed blood possess the vices of both races, and the virtues ofneither. 

A gentleman of superior abilities[10] has devoted life and fortune toelevate the Johanna men, but fears that they are "an unimprovable race. "

The Sultan of Zanzibar, who knows his people better than any stranger, cannot entrust any branch of his revenue to even the better class of hissubjects, but places all his customs, income, and money affairs, in thehands of Banians from India, and his father did before him. 

When the Mohamadan gentlemen of Zanzibar are asked "why their sovereignplaces all his pecuniary affairs and fortune in the hands of aliens?"they frankly avow that if he allowed any Arab to farm his customs, hewould receive nothing but a crop of lies. 

Burton had to dismiss most of his people at Ujiji for dishonesty:Speke's followers deserted at the first approach of danger. Musa fled interror on hearing a false report from a half-caste Arab about theMazitu, 150 miles distant, though I promised to go due west, and notturn to the north till far past the beat of that tribe. The fewliberated slaves with whom I went on had the misfortune to be Mohamadanslaves in boyhood, but did fairly till we came into close contact withMoslems again. A black Arab was released from a twelve years' bondage byCasembe, through my own influence and that of the Sultan's letter: wetravelled together for a time, and he sold the favours of his femaleslaves to my people for goods which he perfectly well knew were stolenfrom me. He received my four deserters, and when I had gone off to LakeBangweolo with only four attendants, the rest wished to follow, but hedissuaded them by saying that I had gone into a country where there waswar: he was the direct cause of all my difficulties with these liberatedslaves, but judged by the East African Moslem standard, as he ought tobe, and not by ours, he isa very good man, and I did not think itprudent to come to a rupture with the old blackguard. 

"Laba" means in the Manyuema dialect "medicine;" a charm, "boganga:"this would make Lualaba mean the River of Medicine or charms. Hassanithought that it meant "great, " because it seemed to mean flowing greatlyor grandly. 

Casembe caught all the slaves that escaped from Mohamad, and placed themin charge of Fungafunga; so there is little hope for fugitive slaves solong as Casembe lives: this act is to the Arabs very good: he is verysensible, and upright besides. 

_3rd November, 1870. _--Got a Kondohondo, the large double-billedHornbill (the _Buceros cristata_), Kakomira, of the Shiré, and theSassassa of Bambarré. It is good eating, and has fat of an orange tinge, like that of the zebra; I keep the bill to make a spoon of it. 

An ambassador at Stamboul or Constantinople was shown a hornbill spoon, and asked if it were really the bill of the Phoenix. He replied that hedid not know, but he had a friend in London who knew all these sort ofthings, so the Turkish ambassador in London brought the spoon toProfessor Owen. He observed something in the divergences of the fibresof the horn which he knew before, and went off into the Museum of theCollege of Surgeons, and brought a preserved specimen of this very bird. "God is great--God is great, " said the Turk, "this is the Phoenix ofwhich we have heard so often. " I heard the Professor tell this at adinner of the London Hunterian Society in 1857. 

There is no great chief in Manyuema or Balégga; all are petty headmen, each of whom considers himself a chief: it is the ethnic state, with nocohesion between the different portions of the tribe. Murder cannot bepunished except by a war, in which many fall, and the feud is madeworse, and transmitted to their descendants. 

The heathen philosophers were content with mere guesses at the futureof the soul. The elder prophets were content with the Divine support inlife and in death. The later prophets advance further, as Isaiah: "Thydead men shall live, together with my dead body shall they arise. Awake, and sing, ye that dwell in the dust: for thy dew is as the dew of herbs. The earth also shall cast out her dead. " This, taken with the sublimespectacle of Hades in the fourteenth chapter, seems a forecast of thefuture, but Jesus instructed Mary and her sister and Lazarus; and Marthawithout hesitation spoke of the resurrection at the last day as afamiliar doctrine, far in advance of the Mosaic law in which she hadbeen reared. 

The Arabs tell me that Monyungo, a chief, was sent for five years amongthe Watuta to learn their language and ways, and he sent his two sonsand a daughter to Zanzibar to school. He kills many of his people, andsays they are so bad that if not killed they would murder strangers. Once they were unruly, when he ordered some of them to give their hutsto Mohamad; on refusing, he put fire to them, and they soon called out, "Let them alone; we will retire. " He dresses like an Arab, and has tenloaded guns at his sitting-place, four pistols, two swords, severalspears, and two bundles of the Batuta spears: he laments that his fatherfiled his teeth when he was young. The name of his very numerous peopleis Bawungu, country Urungu: his other names are Ironga, Mohamu. 

The Basango, on the other hand, consider their chief as a deity, andfear to say aught wrong, lest he should hear them: they fear both beforehim and when out of sight. 

The father of Meréré never drank pombe or beer, and assigned as a reasonthat a great man who had charge of people's lives should never becomeintoxicated so as to do evil. Bangé he never smoked, but in councilsmelled at a bunch of it, in order to make his people believe that ithad a great effect on him. Meréré drinks pombe freely, but never usesbangé: he alone kills sheep; he is a lover of mutton and beef, butneither goats nor fowls are touched by him. 

_9th November, 1870. _--I sent to Lohombo for dura, and planted someNyumbo. I long excessively to be away and finish my work by the twoLacustrine rivers, Lualaba of Webb and Young, but wait only for Syde andDugumbé, who may have letters, and as I do not intend to return hither, but go through Karagwé homewards, I should miss them altogether. I groanand am in bitterness at the delay, but thus it is: I pray for help to dowhat is right, but sorely am I perplexed, and grieved and mourn: Icannot give up making a complete work of the exploration. 

_10th November, 1870. _--A party of Katomba's men arrived on their way toUjiji for carriers, they report that a foray was made S. W. Of Mamohelato recover four guns, which were captured from Katomba; three wererecovered, and ten of the Arab party slain. The people of Manyuemafought very fiercely with arrows, and not till many were killed andothers mutilated would they give up the guns; they probably expectedthis foray, and intended to fight till the last. They had not gone insearch of ivory while this was enacting, consequently Mohamad's men havegot the start of them completely, by going along Lualaba to Kasongo's, and then along the western verge of the Metamba or forest to Loindé orRindi River. The last men sent took to fighting instead of trading, andreturned empty; the experience gained thus, and at the south-west, willprobably lead them to conclude that the Manyuema are not to be shot downwithout reasonable cause. They have sown rice and maize at Mamohela, butcannot trade now where they got so much ivory before. Five men werekilled at Rindi or Loindé, and one escaped: the reason of this outbreakby men who have been so peaceable is not divulged, but anyone seeing thewholesale plunder to which the houses and gardens were subject caneasily guess the rest. Mamohela's camp had several times been set onfire at night by the tribes which suffered assault, but did not effectall that was intended. The Arabs say that the Manyuema now understandthat every gunshot does not kill; the next thing they will learn willbe to grapple in close quarters in the forest, where their spears willoutmatch the guns in the hands of slaves, it will follow, too, that noone will be able to pass through this country; this is the usual courseof Suaheli trading; it is murder and plunder, and each slave as he risesin his owner's favour is eager to show himself a mighty man of valour, by cold-blooded killing of his countrymen: if they can kill afellow-nigger, their pride boils up. The conscience is not enlightenedenough to cause uneasiness, and Islam gives less than the light ofnature. 

I am grievously tired of living here. Mohamad is as kind as he can be, but to sit idle or give up before I finish my work are both intolerable;I cannot bear either, yet I am forced to remain by want of people. 

_11th November, 1870. _--I wrote to Mohamad bin Saleh at Ujiji forletters and medicines to be sent in a box of China tea, which is halfempty: if he cannot get carriers for the long box itself, then he is tosend these, the articles of which I stand in greatest need. 

The relatives of a boy captured at Monanyembé brought three goats toredeem him: he is sick and emaciated; one goat was rejected. The boyshed tears when he saw his grandmother, and the father too, when hisgoat was rejected. "So I returned, and considered all the oppressionsthat are done under the sun: and behold the tears of such as wereoppressed, and they had no comforter; and on the side of theiroppressors there was power; but they had no comforter. "--Eccles. Iv. 1. The relations were told either to bring the goat, or let the boy die;this was hard-hearted. At Mamohela ten goats are demanded for a captive, and given too; here three are demanded. "He that is higher than thehighest regardeth, and there be higher than they. Marvel not at thematter. "

I did not write to the coast, for I suspect that the Lewalé Syde binSalem Buraschid destroys my letters in order to quash the affair ofrobbery by his man Saloom, he kept the other thief, Kamaels, by him forthe same purpose. Mohamad writes to Bin Saleh to say that I am here andwell; that I sent a large packet of letters in June 1869, with money, and received neither an answer, nor my box from Unyanyembé, and this isto be communicated to the Consul by a friend at Zanzibar. If I wrote, itwould only be to be burned; this is as far as I can see at present: thefriend who will communicate with the Consul is Mohamad bin Abdullah theWuzeer, Seyd Suleiman is the Lewalé of the Governor of Zanzibar, Suleiman bin Ali or _Sheikh_ Suleiman the Secretary. 

The Mamohela horde is becoming terrified, for every party going to tradehas lost three or four men, and in the last foray they saw that theManyuema can fight, for they killed ten men: they will soon refuse to goamong those whom they have forced to become enemies. 

One of the Bazula invited a man to go with him to buy ivory; he wentwith him, and on getting into the Zulas country the stranger was askedby the guide if his gun killed men, and how it did it: whilst he wasexplaining the matter he was stabbed to death. No one knows the reasonof this, but the man probably lost some of his relations elsewhere: thisis called murder without cause. When Syde and Dugumbé come, I hope toget men and a canoe to finish my work among those who have not beenabused by Ujijians, and still retain their natural kindness ofdisposition; none of the people are ferocious without cause; and thesore experience which they gain from slaves with guns in their handsusually ends in sullen hatred of all strangers. 

The education of the world is a terrible one, and it has come down withrelentless rigour on Africa from the most remote times! What the Africanwill become after this awfully hard lesson is learned, is among thefuture developments of Providence. When He, who is higher than thehighest, accomplishes His purposes, this will be a wonderful country, and again something like what it was of old, when Zerah and Tirhakaflourished, and were great. 

The soil of Manyuema is clayey and remarkably fertile, the maize sown init rushes up to seed, and everything is in rank profusion if only it bekept clear of weeds, but the Bambarré people are indifferentcultivators, planting maize, bananas and plantains, and ground-nutsonly--no dura, a little cassava, no pennisetum, meleza, pumpkins, melons, or nyumbo, though they all flourish in other districts: a fewsweet potatoes appear, but elsewhere all these native grains and rootsare abundant and cheap. No one would choose this as a residence, exceptfor the sake of Moenékuss. Oil is very dear, while at Lualaba a gallonmay be got for a single string of beads, and beans, ground-nuts, cassava, maize, plantains in rank profusion. The Balégga, like theBambarré people, trust chiefly to plantains and ground-nuts; to playwith parrots is their great amusement. 

_13th November, 1870. _--The men sent over to Lohombo, about thirty milesoff, got two and a half loads of dura for a small goat, but the peoplewere unwilling to trade. "If we encourage Arabs to trade, they will comeand kill us with their guns, " so they said, and it is true: the slavesare overbearing, and when this is resented, then slaughter ensues. I gotsome sweet plantains and a little oil, which is useful in cooking, andwith salt, passes for butter on bread, but all were unwilling to trade. Monangoi was over near Lohombo, and heard of a large trading partycoming, and not far off; this may be Syde and Dugumbé, but reports areoften false. When Katomba's men were on the late foray, they werecompletely overpowered, and compelled by the Manyuema to lay down theirguns and powder-horns, on pain of being instantly despatched by bow-shot:they were mostly slaves, who could only draw the trigger and make anoise. Katomba had to rouse out all the Arabs who could shoot, and whenthey came they killed many, and gained the lost day; the Manyuema didnot kill anyone who laid down his gun and powder-horn. This is thebeginning of an end which was easily perceived when it became not atrading, but a foray of a murdering horde of savages. 

The foray above mentioned was undertaken by Katomba for twenty goatsfrom Kassessa!--ten men lost for twenty goats, but they will think twicebefore they try another foray. 

A small bird follows the "Sassassa" or _Buceros cristata_. It screamsand pecks at his tail till he discharges the contents of his bowels, andthen leaves him; it is called "play" by the natives, and by the Suaheli"Utané" or "Msaha"--fun or wit; he follows other birds in the samemerciless way, screaming and pecking to produce purging; Manyuema callthis bird "Mambambwa. " The buffalo bird warns its big friend of danger, by calling "Chachacha, " and the rhinoceros bird cries out, "Tye, tye, tye, tye, " for the same purpose. The Manyuema call the buffalo bird"Mojela, " and the Suaheli, "Chassa. " A climbing plant in Africa is knownas "Ntulungopé, " which mixed with flour of dura kills mice; they swarmin our camp and destroy everything, but Ntulungopé is not near this. 

The Arabs tell me that one dollar a day is ample for provisions for alarge family at Zanzibar; the food consists of wheat, rice, flesh ofgoats or ox, fowls, bananas, milk, butter, sugar, eggs, mangoes, andpotatoes. Ambergris is boiled in milk and sugar, and used by the Hindoosas a means of increasing blood in their systems; a small quantity is adose; it is found along the shore of the sea at Barawa or Brava, and atMadagascar, as if the sperm whale got rid of it while alive. Lamoo orAmu is wealthy, and well supplied with everything, as grapes, peaches, wheat, cattle, camels, &c. The trade is chiefly with Madagascar: thehouses are richly furnished with furniture, dishes from India, &c. AtGaraganza there are hundreds of Arab traders, there too all fruitsabound, and the climate is healthy, from its elevation. Why cannot wemissionaries imitate these Arabs in living on heights?

_24th November, 1870. _--Herpes is common at the plantations in Zanzibar, but the close crowding of the houses in the town they think prevents it;the lips and mouth are affected, and constipation sets in for threedays, all this is cured by going over to the mainland. Affections of thelungs are healed by residence at Bariwa or Brava, and also on themainland. The Tafori of Halfani took my letters from Ujiji, but who theperson employed is I do not know. 

_29th November, 1870. _--_Safura_ is the name of the disease of clay orearth eating, at Zanzibar; it often affects slaves, and the clay is saidto have a pleasant odour to the eaters, but it is not confined toslaves, nor do slaves eat in order to kill themselves; it is a diseasedappetite, and rich men who have plenty to eat are often subject to it. The feet swell, flesh is lost, and the face looks haggard; the patientcan scarcely walk for shortness of breath and weakness, and he continueseating till he dies. Here many slaves are now diseased with safura; theclay built in walls is preferred, and Manyuema women when pregnant ofteneat it. The cure is effected by drastic purges composed as follows: oldvinegar of cocoa-trees is put into a large basin, and old slag red-hotcast into it, then "Moneyé, " asafoetida, half a rupee in weight, copperas, sulph. Ditto: a small glass of this, fasting morning andevening, produces vomiting and purging of black dejections, this iscontinued for seven days; no meat is to be eaten, but only old rice ordura and water; a fowl in course of time: no fish, butter, eggs, orbeef for two years on pain of death. Mohamad's father had skill in thecure, and the above is his prescription. Safura is thus a disease _perse_; it is common in Manyuema, and makes me in a measure content to waitfor my medicines; from the description, inspissated bile seems to be theagent of blocking up the gall-duct and duodenum and the clay or earthmay be nature trying to clear it away: the clay appears unchanged in thestools, and in large quantity. A Banyamwezi carrier, who bore anenormous load of copper, is now by safura scarcely able to walk; he tookit at Lualaba where food is abundant, and he is contented with his lot. Squeeze a finger-nail, and if no blood appears beneath it, safura is thecause of the bloodlessness. 

FOOTNOTES:

[8] A precisely similar epidemic broke out at the settlement atMagomero, in which fifty-four of the slaves liberated by Dr. Livingstone and Bishop Mackenzie died. This disease is by far the mostfatal scourge the natives suffer from, not even excepting small-pox. It is common throughout Tropical Africa. We believe that someimportant facts have recently been brought to light regarding it, andwe can only trust sincerely that the true nature of the disorder willbe known in time, so that it may be successfully treated: at presentchange of air and high feeding on a meat diet are the best remedies weknow. --ED. 

[9] Dr. Livingstone never ceased to impress upon Europeans the utternecessity of living on the high table-lands of the interior, ratherthan on the sea-board or the banks of the great arterial rivers. Menmay escape death in an unhealthy place, but the system is enfeebledand energy reduced to the lowest ebb. Under such circumstances lifebecomes a misery, and important results can hardly be looked for whenone's vitality is preoccupied in wrestling with the unhealthiness ofthe situation, day and night. --ED. 

[10] Mr. John Sunley, of Pomoné, Johanna, an island in the Comorogroup. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials. Lion's fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings about Meréré. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarré. Goître. News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as servants. They refuse to go north. Parts at last with malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan. Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko. Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They "want to eat a white one. " Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwé. Reaches the Lualaba. 

_6th December, 1870. _--Oh, for Dugumbé or Syde to come! but this delaymay be all for the best. The parrots all seize their food, and hold itwith the left hand, the lion, too, is left-handed; he strikes with theleft, so are all animals left-handed save man. 

I noticed a very pretty woman come past this quite jauntily about amonth ago, on marriage with Monasimba. Ten goats were given; her friendscame and asked another goat, which being refused, she was enticed away, became sick of rheumatic fever two days afterwards, and died yesterday. Not a syllable of regret for the beautiful young creature does one hear, but for the goats: "Oh, our ten goats!"--they cannot grieve toomuch--"Our ten goats--oh! oh!"

Basanga wail over those who die in bed, but not over those who die inbattle: the cattle are a salve for all sores. Another man was killedwithin half a mile of this: they quarrelled, and there is virtually nochief. The man was stabbed, the village burned, and the people all fled:they are truly a bloody people!

A man died near this, Monasimba went to his wife, and after washing hemay appear among men. If no widow can be obtained, he must sit nakedbehind his house till some one happens to die, all the clothes he woreare thrown away. They are the lowest of the low, and especially inbloodiness: the man who killed a woman without cause goes free, heoffered his grandmother to be killed in his stead, and after a greatdeal of talk nothing was done to him!

_8th December, 1870. _--Suleiman-bin-Juma lived on the mainland, Mosessamé, opposite Zanzibar: it is impossible to deny his power offoresight, except by rejecting all evidence, for he frequently foretoldthe deaths of great men among Arabs, and he was pre-eminently a goodman, upright and sincere: "Thirti, " none like him now for goodness andskill. He said that two middle-sized white men, with straight noses andflowing hair down to the girdle behind, came at times, and told himthings to come. He died twelve years ago, and left no successor; heforetold his own decease three days beforehand by cholera. "Heresi, " aball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, is a grand charm to theanimal and to Arabs. Mohamad has one. 

_10th December, 1870. _--I am sorely let and hindered in this Manyuema. Rain every day, and often at night; I could not travel now, even if Ihad men, but I could make some progress; this is the sorest delay I everhad. I look above for help and mercy. 

[The wearied man tried to while away the time by gaining little scrapsof information from the Arabs and the natives, but we cannot fail to seewhat a serious stress was all the time put upon his constitution underthese circumstances; the reader will pardon the disjointed nature ofhis narrative, written as it was under the greatest disadvantage. ]

Lion's fat is regarded as a sure preventive of tsetse or bungo. This wasnoted before, but I add now that it is smeared on the ox's tail, andpreserves hundreds of the Banyamwesi cattle in safety while going to thecoast; it is also used to keep pigs and hippopotami away from gardens:the smell is probably the efficacious part in "Heresi, " as they call it. 

_12th December, 1870. _--It may be all for the best that I am sohindered, and compelled to inactivity. 

An advance to Lohombo was the furthest point of traders for many a day, for the slaves returning with ivory were speared mercilessly byManyuema, because they did not know guns could kill, and their spearscould. Katomba coming to Moenékuss was a great feat three or four yearsago; then Dugumbé went on to Lualaba, and fought his way, so I may berestrained now in mercy till men come. 

The Neggeri, an African animal, attacks the tenderest parts of man andbeast, cuts them off, and retires contented: buffaloes are oftencastrated by him. Men who know it, squat down, and kill him with knifeor gun. The Zibu or mbuidé flies at the tendon Achilles; it is mostlikely the Ratel. 

The Fisi ea bahari, probably the seal, is abundant in the seas, but theratel or badger probably furnished the skins for the Tabernacle: beesescape from his urine, and he eats their honey in safety; lions and allother animals fear his attacks of the heel. 

The Babemba mix a handful (about twenty-five to a measure) of castor-oilseeds with the dura and meleza they grind, and usage makes them like it, the nauseous taste is not perceptible in porridge; the oil is neededwhere so much farinaceous or starchy matter exists, and the bowels areregulated by the mixture: experience has taught them the need of a fattyingredient. 

[Dr. Livingstone seems to have been anxious to procure all theinformation possible from the Arabs respecting the powerful chiefMeréré, who is reported to live on the borders of the Salt Water Lake, which lies between Lake Tanganyika and the East Coast. It would seem asif Meréré held the most available road for travellers passing to thesouth-west from Zanzibar, and although the Doctor did not go through hiscountry, he felt an interest no doubt in ascertaining as much as hecould for the benefit of others. ]

Goambari is a prisoner at Meréré's, guarded by a thousand or more men, to prevent him intriguing with Monyungo, who is known as bloodthirsty. In the third generation Charura's descendants numbered sixty able-bodiedspearmen, Garahenga or Kimamuré killed many of them. Charura had sixwhite attendants with him, but all died before he did, and on becomingchief he got all his predecessor's wives. Meréré is the son of a womanof the royal stock, and of a common man, hence he is a shade or twodarker than Charura's descendants, who are very light coloured, and havestraight noses. They shave the head, and straight hair is all cut off;they drink much milk, warm, from the teats of the cows, and think thatit is strengthening by its heat. 

_December 23rd, 1870. _--Bambarré people suffer hunger now because theywill not plant cassava; this trading party eats all the maize, and sendsto a distance for more, and the Manyuema buy from them with malofu, orpalm-toddy. Rice is all coming into ear, but the Manyuema planted none:maize is ripening, and mice are a pest. A strong man among the Manyuemadoes what he pleases, and no chief interferes: for instance, a man'swife for ten goats was given off to a Mené man, and his child, nowgrown, is given away, too; he comes to Mohamad for redress! Twoelephants killed were very large, but have only small tusks: they comefrom the south in the rains. All animals, as elephants, buffaloes, andzebras, are very large in the Basango country; tusks are full in thehollows, and weigh very heavy, and animals are fat and good in flesh:eleven goats are the exchange for the flesh of an elephant. 

[The following details respecting ivory cannot fail to be interestinghere: they are very kindly furnished by Mr. F. D. Blyth, whose longexperience enables him to speak with authority upon the subject. Hesays, England imports about 550 tons of ivory annually, --of this 280tons pass away to other countries, whilst the remainder is used by ourmanufacturers, of whom the Sheffield cutlers alone require about 170tons. The whole annual importation is derived from the followingcountries, and in the quantities given below, as near as one canapproach to actual figures:

 Bombay and Zanzibar export 160 tons. Alexandria and Malta 180 " West Coast of Africa 140 " Cape of Good Hope 50 " Mozambique 20 "

The Bombay merchants collect ivory from all the southern countries ofAsia, and the East Coast of Africa, and after selecting that which ismost suited to the wants of the Indian and Chinese markets, ship theremainder to Europe. 

From Alexandria and Malta we receive ivory collected from Northern andCentral Africa, from Egypt, and the countries through which the Nileflows. 

Immediately after the Franco-German war the value of ivory increasedconsiderably; and when we look at the prices realized on large Zanzibartusks at the public sales, we can well understand the motive power whichdrove the Arab ivory hunters further and further into the country fromwhich the chief supply was derived when Dr. Livingstone met them. 

 In 1867 their price varied from £39 to £42. " 1868 " " " " 39 " 42. " 1869 " " " " 41 " 44. " 1870 " " " " do. " do. " 1871 " " " " do. " do. " 1872 " " " " 58 " 61. " 1873 " " " " 68 " 72. " 1874 " " " " 53 " 58. 

Single tusks vary in weight from 1 lb. To 165 lbs. : the average of apair of tusks may be put at 28 lbs. , and therefore 44, 000 elephants, large and small, must be killed yearly to supply the ivory which _comesto England alone_, and when we remember that an enormous quantity goesto America, to India and China, for consumption there, and of which wehave no account, some faint notion may be formed of the destruction thatgoes on amongst the herds of elephants. 

Although naturalists distinguish only two living species of elephants, viz. The African and the Asiatic, nevertheless there is a greatdifference in the size, character, and colour of their tusks, which mayarise from variations in climate, soil, and food. The largest tusks areyielded by the African elephant, and find their way hither from the portof Zanzibar: they are noted for being opaque, soft or "mellow" to work, and free from cracks or defects. 

The tusks from India, Ceylon, &c, are smaller in size, partly of anopaque character, and partly translucent (or, as it is technicallycalled "bright"), and harder and more cracked, but those from Siam andthe neighbouring countries are very "bright, " soft, and fine grained;they are much sought after for carvings and ornamental work. Tusks fromMozambique and the Cape of Good Hope seldom exceed 70 lbs. In weighteach: they are similar in character to the Zanzibar kind. 

Tusks which come through Alexandria and Malta differ considerably inquality: some resemble those from Zanzibar, whilst others are white andopaque, harder to work, and more cracked at the points; and others againare very translucent and hard, besides being liable to crack: thislatter description fetches a much lower price in the market. 

From the West Coast of Africa we get ivory which is always translucent, with a dark outside or coating, but partly hard and partly soft. 

The soft ivory which comes from Ambriz, the Gaboon River, and the portssouth of the equator, is more highly valued than any other, and iscalled "silver grey": this sort retains its whiteness when exposed tothe air, and is free from that tendency to become yellowish in timewhich characterises Asiatic and East African ivory. 

Hard tusks, as a rule, are proportionately smaller in diameter, sharper, and less worn than soft ones, and they come to market much more cracked, fetching in consequence a lower price. 

In addition to the above a few tons of Mammoth ivory are received fromtime to time from the Arctic regions and Siberia, and although ofunknown antiquity, some tusks are equal in every respect to ivory whichis obtained in the present day from elephants newly killed; this, nodoubt, is owing to the preservative effects of the ice in which theanimals have been imbedded for many thousands of years. In the year 1799the entire carcase of a mammoth was taken from the ice, and the skeletonand portions of the skin, still covered with reddish hair, are preservedin the Museum of St. Petersburg: it is said that portions of the fleshwere eaten by the men who dug it out of the ice. ]

_24th December, 1870. _--Between twenty-five and thirty slaves have diedin the present epidemic, and many Manyuema; two yesterday at Kandawara. The feet swell, then the hands and face, and in a day or two they dropdead; it came from the East, and is very fatal, for few escape who takeit. 

A woman was accused of stealing maize, and the chief here sent all hispeople yesterday, plundered all she had in her house and garden, andbrought her husband bound in thongs till he shall pay a goat: she issaid to be innocent. 

Monangoi does this by fear of the traders here; and, as the people tellhim, as soon as they are gone the vengeance he is earning by injusticeon all sides will be taken: I told the chief that his head would be cutoff as soon as the traders leave, and so it will be; and Kasessa's also. 

Three men went from Katomba to Kasongo's to buy Viramba, and a man wasspeared belonging to Kasongo, these three then fired into a mass of menwho collected, one killed two, another three, and so on; so now thatplace is shut up from traders, and all this country will be closed assoon as the Manyuema learn that guns are limited in their power ofkilling, and especially in the hands of slaves, who cannot shoot, butonly make a noise. These Suaheli are the most cruel and bloodthirstymissionaries in existence, and withal so impure in talk and acts, spreading disease everywhere. The Lord sees it. 

_28th December, 1870. _--Moenembegg, the most intelligent of the two sonsof Moenékuss, in power, told us that a man was killed and eaten a fewmiles from this yesterday: hunger was the reason assigned. On speakingof tainted meat, he said that the Manyuema put meat in water for twodays to make it putrid and smell high. The love of high meat is the onlyreason I know for their cannibalism, but the practice is now hidden onaccount of the disgust that the traders expressed against openman-eating when they first arrived. 

Lightning was very near us last night. The Manyuema say that when it isso loud fishes of large size fall with it, an opinion shared by theArabs, but the large fish is really the _Clarias Capensis_ of Smith, andit is often seen migrating in single file along the wet grass for miles:it is probably this that the Manyuema think falls from the lightning. 

The strangest disease I have seen in this country seems really to bebroken-heartedness, and it attacks free men who have been captured andmade slaves. My attention was drawn to it when the elder brother of Sydebin Habib was killed in Rua by a night attack, from a spear beingpitched through his tent into his side. Syde then vowed vengeance forthe blood of his brother, and assaulted all he could find, killing theelders, and making the young men captives. He had secured a very largenumber, and they endured the chains until they saw the broad RiverLualaba roll between them and their free homes; they then lost heart. Twenty-one were unchained as being now safe; however, all ran away atonce, but eight, with many others still in chains, died in three daysafter crossing. They ascribed their only pain to the heart, and placedthe hand correctly on the spot, though many think that the organ standshigh up under the breast bone. Some slavers expressed surprise to methat they should die, seeing they had plenty to eat and no work. Onefine boy of about twelve years was carried, and when about to expire, was kindly laid down on the side of the path, and a hole dug to depositthe body in. He, too, said he had nothing the matter with him, exceptpain in his heart: as it attacks only the free (who are captured andnever slaves), it seems to be really broken-hearts of which they die. 

[Livingstone's servants give some additional particulars in answer toquestions put to them about this dreadful history. The sufferingsendured by these unfortunate captives, whilst they were hawked about indifferent directions, must have been shocking indeed; many died becauseit was impossible for them to carry a burden on the head whilst marchingin the heavy yoke or "taming stick, " which weighs from 30 lbs. To 40lbs. As a rule, and the Arabs knew that if once the stick were takenoff, the captive would escape on the first opportunity. Children for atime would keep up with wonderful endurance, but it happened sometimesthat the sound of dancing and the merry tinkle of the small drums wouldfall on their ears in passing near to a village; then the memory of homeand happy days proved too much for them; they cried and sobbed, the"broken-heart" came on, and they rapidly sank. 

The adults as a rule came into the slave-sticks from treachery, and hadnever been slaves before. Very often the Arabs would promise a presentof dried fish to villagers if they would act as guides to some distantpoint, and as soon as they were far enough away from their friends theywere seized and pinned into the yoke from which there is no escape. These poor fellows would expire in the way the Doctor mentions, talkingto the last of their wives and children who would never know what hadbecome of them. On one occasion twenty captives succeeded in escaping asfollows. Chained together by the neck, and in the custody of an Arabarmed with a gun, they were sent off to collect wood; at a given signal, one of them called the guard to look at something which he pretended hehad found: when he stooped down they threw themselves upon him andoverpowered him, and after he was dead managed to break the chain andmake off in all directions. ]

Rice sown on 19th October was in ear in seventy days. A leopard killedmy goat, and a gun set for him went off at 10 P. M. --the ball broke bothhind legs and one fore leg, yet he had power to spring up and bite a manbadly afterwards; he was a male, 2 feet 4 inches at withers, and 6 feet8 inches from tip of nose to end of tail. 

_1st January, 1871. _--O Father! help me to finish this work to Thyhonour. 

Still detained at Bambarré, but a caravan of 500 muskets is reportedfrom the coast: it may bring me other men and goods. 

Rain daily. A woman was murdered without cause close by the camp; themurderer said she was a witch and speared her: the body is exposed tillthe affair is settled, probably by a fine of goats. 

The Manyuema are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts ascarlet feather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges thosenear to stick it in the hair: he who does so must kill a man or woman!

Another custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, Ngawa, unless he has murdered somebody: guns alone prevent them from killing usall, and for no reason either. 

_16th January, 1871. _--Ramadân ended last night, and it is probable mypeople and others from the coast will begin to travel after three daysof feasting. It has been so rainy I could have done little though I hadhad people. 

_22nd January, 1871. _--A party is reported to be on the way hither. Thisis likely enough, but reports are so often false that doubts arise. Mohamad says he will give men when the party of Hassani comes, or whenDugumbé arrives. 

_24th January, 1871. _--Mohamad mentioned this morning that Moene-mokaia, and Moeneghera his brother, brought about thirty slaves from Katañga toUjiji, affected with swelled thyroid glands or "_Goître_, " and thatdrinking the water of Tanganyika proved a perfect cure to all in a veryfew days. Sometimes the swelling went down in two days after they beganto use the water, in their ordinary way of cooking, washing, anddrinking: possibly some ingredient of the hot fountain that flows intoit affects the cure, for the people on the Lofubu, in Nsama's country, had the swelling. The water in bays is decidedly brackish, while thebody of Tanganyika is quite fresh. 

The odour of putrid elephant's meat in a house kills parrots: theManyuema keep it till quite rotten, but know its fatal effects on theirfavourite birds. 

_27th January, 1871. _--Safari or caravan reported to be near, and my menand goods at Ujiji. 

_28th January, 1871. _--A safari, under Hassani and Ebed, arrived withnews of great mortality by cholera (_Towny_), at Zanzibar, and my"brother, " whom I conjecture to be Dr. Kirk, has fallen. The men I wrotefor have come to Ujiji, but did not know my whereabouts; when told byKatomba's men they will come here, and bring my much longed for lettersand goods. 70, 000 victims in Zanzibar alone from cholera, and it spreadinland to the Masoi and Ugogo! Cattle shivered, and fell dead: thefishes in the sea died in great numbers; here the fowls were firstseized and died, but not from cholera, only from its companion. Thirtymen perished in our small camp, made still smaller by all the able menbeing off trading at the Metamba, and how many Manyuema died we do notknow; the survivors became afraid of eating the dead. 

Formerly the Cholera kept along the sea-shore, now it goes far inland, and will spread all over Africa; this we get from Mecca filth, fornothing was done to prevent the place being made a perfect cesspool ofanimals' guts and ordure of men. [11] A piece of skin bound round thechest of a man, and half of it hanging down, prevents waste of strength, and he forgets and fattens. 

Ebed's party bring 200 frasilahs of all sorts of beads; they will crossLualaba, and open a new field on the other, or Young's Lualaba: allCentral Africa will soon be known: the evils inflicted by these Arabsare enormous, but probably not greater than the people inflict on eachother. Meréré has turned against the Arabs, and killed one; robbingseveral others of all they had, though he has ivory sufficient to senddown 7000 lbs. To the coast, and receive loads of goods for 500 men inreturn. He looks as if insane, and probably is so, and will soon bekilled. His insanity may be the effect of pombe, of which he drinkslargely, and his people may have told him that the Arabs were plottingwith Goambari. He restored Mohamad's ivory and slaves, and sent for theother traders who had fled, saying his people had spoken badly, and hewould repay all losses. 

The Watuta (who are the same as the Mazitu) came stealing Banyamwezicattle, and Mtéza's men went out to them, and twenty-two were killed, but the Lewale's people did nothing. The Governor's sole anxiety is toobtain ivory, and no aid is rendered to traders. Seyed Suleiman theWazeer is the author of the do-nothing policy, and sent away all thesepoys as too expensive, consequently the Wagogo plunder tradersunchecked. It is reported that Egyptian Turks came up and attackedMtéza, but lost many people, and fled. The report of a Moslem Mission tohis country was a falsehood, though the details given werecircumstantial: falsehood is so common, one can believe nothing theArabs say, unless confirmed by other evidence: they are the followers ofthe Prince of lies--Mohamad, whose cool appropriation of the knowledgegained at Damascus, and from the Jews, is perfectly disgusting. All hisdeeds were done when unseen by any witnesses. It is worth noticing thatall admit the decadence of the Moslem power, and they ask how it is sofallen? They seem sincere in their devotion and in teaching the Koran, but its meaning is comparatively hid from most of the Suaheli. ThePersian Arabs are said to be gross idolators, and awfully impure. Earthfrom a grave at Kurbelow (?) is put in the turban and worshipped: someof the sects won't say "Amen. "

Moenyegumbé never drank more than a mouthful of pombe. When young, hecould make his spear pass right through an elephant, and stick in theground on the other side. He was a large man, and all his members werelargely developed, his hands and fingers were all in proportion to hisgreat height; and he lived to old age with strength unimpaired: Goambariinherits his white colour and sharp nose, but not his wisdom or courage. Meréré killed five of his own people for exciting him against the Arabs. The half-caste is the murderer of many of Charura's descendants. Hisfather got a daughter of Moenyegumbé for courage in fighting the Babemaof Ubena. 

Cold-blooded murders are frightfully common here. Some kill people inorder to be allowed to wear the red tail feathers of a parrot in theirhair, and yet they are not ugly like the West Coast Negroes, for manymen have as finely formed heads as could be found in London. We English, if naked, would make but poor figures beside the strapping forms andfinely shaped limbs of Manyuema men and women. Their cannibalism isdoubtful, but my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch jurywould say, "Not proven. " The women are not guilty. 

_4th February, 1871. _--Ten of my men from the coast have come near toBambarré, and will arrive to-day. I am extremely thankful to hear it, for it assures me that my packet of letters was not destroyed; they knowat home by this time what has detained me, and the end to which Istrain. 

Only one letter reached, and forty are missing! James was killed to-dayby an arrow: the assassin was hid in the forest till my men going to buyfood came up. [12] I propose to leave on the 12th. I have sent Dr. Kirk acheque for Rs. 4000: great havoc was made by cholera, and in the midstof it my friend exerted himself greatly to get men off to me with goods;the first gang of porters all died. 

_8th February, 1871. _--The ten men refusing to go north are influencedprobably by Shereef, and my two ringleaders, who try this means tocompel me to take them. 

_9th February, 1871. _--The man who contrived the murder of James camehere, drawn by the pretence that he was needed to lead a party againstthe villages, which he led to commit the outrage. His thirst for bloodis awful: he was bound, and word sent to bring the actual murdererswithin three days, or he suffers death. He brought five goats, thinkingthat would smooth the matter over. 

_11th February, 1871. _--Men struck work for higher wages: I consented togive them six dollars a month if they behaved well; if ill I diminishit, so we hope to start to-morrow. Another hunting quelled by Mohamadand me. 

The ten men sent are all slaves of the Banians, who are Englishsubjects, and they come with a lie in their mouth: they will not helpme, and swear that the Consul told them not to go forward, but to forceme back, and they spread the tale all over the country that a certainletter has been sent to me with orders to return forthwith. They sworeso positively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's letter to seeif his orders had been rightly understood by me. But for MohamadBogharib and fear of pistol-shot they would gain their own and theirBanian masters' end to baffle me completely; they demand an advance ofone dollar, or six dollars a month, though this is double freeman's payat Zanzibar. Their two headmen, Shereef and Awathé, refused to come pastUjiji, and are revelling on my goods there. 

_13th February, 1871. _--Mabruki being seized with choleraic purgingdetains us to-day. I gave Mohamad five pieces Americano, five dittoKaniké, [13] and two frasilahs samisami beads. He gives me a note toHassani for twenty thick copper bracelets. Yesterday crowds came to eatthe meat of the man who misled James to his death spot: but we want themen who set the Mbanga men to shoot him: they were much disappointedwhen they found that no one was killed, and are undoubtedly cannibals. 

_16th, February, 1871. _--Started to-day. Mabruki making himself outvery ill, Mohamad roused him out by telling him I travelled when muchworse. The chief gave me a goat, and Mohamad another, but in comingthrough the forest on the neck of the mountain the men lost three, andhave to go back for them, and return to-morrow. Simon and Ibram werebundled out of the camp, and impudently followed me: when they cameup, I told them to be off. 

_17th February, 1871. _--Waiting at a village on the Western slope forthe men to come up with the goats, if they have gone back to the camp. Mohamad would not allow the deserters to remain among his people, norwould I. It would only be to imbue the minds of my men with their wantof respect for all English, and total disregard of honesty and honour:they came after me with inimitable effrontery, believing that though Isaid I would not take them, they were so valuable, I was only sayingwhat I knew to be false. The goats were brought by a Manyuema man, whofound one fallen into a pitfall and dead; he ate it, and brought one ofhis own in lieu of it. I gave him ten strings of beads, and he presenteda fowl in token of goodwill. 

_18th February, 1871. _--Went on to a village on the Lulwa, and on the19th reached Moenemgoi, who dissuaded me so earnestly against going toMoenekurumbo for the cause of Molembalemba that I agreed not to venture. 

_20th February, 1871. _--To the ford with only one canoe now, as two menof Katomba were swept away in the other, and drowned. They would notsell the remaining canoe, so I go N. W. On foot to Moené Lualaba, wherefine large canoes are abundant. The grass and mud are grievous, but mymen lift me over the waters. 

_21st February, 1871. _--Arrived at Monandewa's village, situated on ahigh ridge between two deep and difficult gullies. These people areobliging and kind: the chief's wife made a fire for me in the eveningunbidden. 

_22nd February, 1871. _--On N. W. To a high hill called Chibandé a Yundé, with a spring of white water at the village on the top. Famine from someunknown cause here, but the people are cultivating now on the plainbelow with a will. 

_23rd February, 1871. _--On to two large villages with many banana plantsaround, but the men said they were in fear of the traders, and shiftedtheir villages to avoid them: we then went on to the villageKahombogola, with a feeble old man as chief. The country is beautifuland undulating: light-green grass covers it all, save at the brooks, where the eye is relieved by the dark-green lines of trees. Grass tearsthe hands and wets the extremities constantly. The soil is formed of thedébris of granitic rocks; rough and stony, but everywhere fertile. Onecan rarely get a bare spot to sit down and rest. 

_24th February, 1871. _--To a village near Lolandé River. Then acrossthe Loengadyé, sleeping on the bank of the Luha, and so to Mamohela, where we were welcomed by all the Arabs, and I got a letter from Dr. Kirk and another from the Sultan, and from Mohamad bin Nassib who wasgoing to Karagwé: all anxious to be kind. Katomba gave flour, nuts, fowls, and goat. A new way is opened to Kasongo's, much shorter thanthat I followed. I rest a few days, and then go on. 

_25th February, 1871. _--So we went on, and found that it was now knownthat the Lualaba flowed west-south-west, and that our course was to bewest across this other great bend of the mighty river. I had to suspendmy judgment, so as to be prepared to find it after all perhaps theCongo. No one knew anything about it except that when at Kasongo's ninedays west, and by south it came sweeping round and flowed north andnorth and by east. 

Katomba presented a young soko or gorillah that had been caught whileits mother was killed; she sits eighteen inches high, has fine longblack hair all over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order byher dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I haveseen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and sits quietly onthe mat beside me. In walking, the first thing observed is that she doesnot tread on the palms of her hands, but on the backs of the second lineof bones of the hands: in doing this the nails do not touch the ground, nor do the knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch fashion, and hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is putdown before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she walksupright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If refused, sheturns her face down, and makes grimaces of the most bitter humanweeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes adding a fourth hand or footto make the appeal more touching. Grass or leaves she draws around herto make a nest, and resents anyone meddling with her property. She is amost friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making herchirrup of welcome, smelled my clothing, and held out her hand to beshaken. I slapped her palm without offence, though she winced. She beganto untie the cord with which she was afterwards bound, with fingers andthumbs, in quite a systematic way, and on being interfered with by a manlooked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands: she wasafraid of his stick, and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend. She holds out her hand for people to lift her up and carry her, quitelike a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry, somewhat likethat of a kite, wrings her hands quite naturally, as if in despair. Sheeats everything, covers herself with a mat to sleep, and makes a nest ofgrass or leaves, and wipes her face with a leaf. 

I presented my double-barrelled gun which is at Ujiji to Katomba, as hehas been very kind when away from Ujiji: I pay him thus for all hisservices. He gave me the soko, and will carry it to Ujiji for me; I havetried to refund all that the Arabs expended on me. 

_1st March, 1871. _--I was to start this morning, but the Arabs asked meto take seven of their people going to buy biramba, as they know the newway: the offer was gladly accepted. 

_2nd to 5th March, 1871. _--Left Mamohela, and travelled over fine grassyplains, crossing in six hours fourteen running rills, from three to tenor fifteen feet broad, and from calf to thigh deep. Tree-coveredmountains on both sides. The natives know the rills by names, andreadily tell their courses, and which falls into which, before all gointo the great Lualaba; but without one as a guide, no one can put themin a map. We came to Monanbunda's villages, and spent the night. Ournext stage was at Monangongo's. A small present of a few strings ofbeads satisfies, but is not asked: I give it invariably asacknowledgment for lodgings. The headman of our next stage hid himselfin fear, as we were near to the scene of Bin Juma's unprovoked slaughterof five men, for tusks that were not stolen, but thrown down. Our pathlay through dense forest, and again, on 5th, our march was in the samedense jungle of lofty trees and vegetation that touch our arms on eachside. We came to some villages among beautiful tree-covered hills, called Basilañgé or Mobasilangé. The villages are very pretty, standingon slopes. The main street generally lies east and west, to allow thebright sun to stream his clear hot rays from one end to the other, andlick up quickly the moisture from the frequent showers which is notdrained off by the slopes. A little verandah is often made in front ofthe door, and here at dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, whileenjoying the heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the firstdarting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale thedelicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The variousshaped leaves of the forest all around their village and near theirnestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crowvigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol and leap on the backs oftheir dams quietly chewing the cud; other goats make believe fighting. Thrifty wives often bake their new clay pots in a fire, made by lightinga heap of grass roots: the next morning they extract salt from theashes, and so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of thismorning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy gilds thefairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably never forgotten, for the young, taken up from slavers, and treated with all philanthropicmissionary care and kindness, still revert to the period of infancy asthe finest and fairest they have known. They would go back to freedomand enjoyment as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedlessto the charms of hard work and no play which we think so much betterfor them if not for us. 

In some cases we found all the villages deserted; the people had fled atour approach, in dread of repetitions of the outrages of Arab slaves. The doors were all shut: a bunch of the leaves of reeds or of greenreeds placed across them, means "no entrance here. " A few stray chickenswander about wailing, having hid themselves while the rest were caughtand carried off into the deep forest, and the still smoking fires tellthe same tale of recent flight from the slave-traders. 

Many have found out that I am not one of their number, so in variouscases they stand up and call out loudly, "Bolongo, Bolongo!""Friendship, Friendship!" They sell their fine iron bracelets eagerlyfor a few beads; for (bracelets seem out of fashion since beads camein), but they are of the finest quality of iron, and were they nearerEurope would be as eagerly sought and bought as horse-shoe nails are forthe best gun-barrels. I overhear the Manyuema telling each other that Iam the "good one. " I have no slaves, and I owe this character to thepropagation of a good name by the slaves of Zanzibar, who are anythingbut good themselves. I have seen slaves belonging to the seven men nowwith us slap the cheeks of grown men who had offered food for sale; itwas done in sheer wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I sawit again; but out of my sight they did it still, and when I complainedto the masters they confessed that all the mischief was done by slaves;for the Manyuema, on being insulted, lose temper and use their spears onthe nasty curs, and then vengeance is taken with guns. Free men behavebetter than slaves; the bondmen are not responsible. The Manyuema arefar more beautiful than either the bond or free of Zanzibar; I overhearthe remark often, "If we had Manyuema wives what beautiful children weshould beget. " The men are usually handsome, and many of the women arevery pretty; hands, feet, limbs, and forms perfect in shape and thecolour light-brown, but the orifices of the nose are widened bysnuff-takers, who ram it up as far as they can with the finger andthumb: the teeth are not filed, except a small space between the twoupper front teeth. 

_5th March, 1871. _--We heard to-day that Mohamad's people passed us onthe west, with much ivory. I lose thus twenty copper rings I was to takefrom them, and all the notes they were to make for me of the rivers theycrossed. 

_6th March, 1871. _--Passed through very large villages, with many forgesin active work; some men followed us, as if to fight, but we got them toturn peaceably: we don't know who are enemies, so many have beenmaltreated and had relatives killed. The rain of yesterday made thepaths so slippery that the feet of all were sorely fatigued, and oncoming to Manyara's, I resolved to rest on 7th near Mount Kimazi. I gavea cloth and beads in lieu of a fine fat goat from the chief, a clever, good man. 

_9th March, 1871. _--We marched about five hours across a grassy plainwithout trees--buga or prairie. The torrid sun, nearly vertical, senthis fierce rays down, and fatigued us all: we crossed two Sokoyé streamsby bridges, and slept at a village on a ridge of woodland overlookingKasonga. After two hours this morning, we came to villages of thischief, and at one were welcomed by the Safari of Salem Mokadam, and Iwas given a house. Kasonga is a very fine young man, with Europeanfeatures, and "very clever and good. " He is clever, and is pronouncedgood, because he eagerly joins the Arabs in marauding! Seeing theadvantage of firearms, he has bought four muskets. Mohamad's people wereled by his, and spent all their copper for some fifty frasilahs of goodivory. From this party men have been sent over Lualaba, and about fiftyfrasilahs obtained: all praise Kasonga. We were now only six miles fromLualaba, and yet south of Mamohela; this great river, in fact, makes asecond great sweep to the west of some 130 miles, and there are at least30' of southing; but now it comes rolling majestically to the north, andagain makes even easting. It is a mighty stream, with many islands init, and is never wadeable at any point or at any time of the year. 

_10th March, 1871. _--Mohamad's people are said to have gone to Luapanya, a powerful chief, who told them they were to buy all their ivory fromhim: he had not enough, and they wanted to go on to a people who haveivory door-posts; but he said, "You shall go neither forward norbackwards, but remain here, " and he then called an immense body ofarchers, and said, "You must fight these. " The consequence was theykilled Luapanya and many of his people, called Bahika, then crossed avery large river, the Morombya or Morombwé, and again the Pembo River, but don't seem to have gone very far north. I wished to go from this incanoes, but Kasonga has none, so I must tramp for five or six days toMoené Lualaba to buy one, if I have credit with Abed. 

_11th March, 1871. _--I had a long, fierce oration from Amur, in which Iwas told again and again that I should be killed and eaten--the peoplewanted a "white one" to eat! I needed 200 guns; and "must not go todie. " I told him that I was thankful for advice, if given by one who hadknowledge, but his vehement threats were dreams of one who had nevergone anywhere, but sent his slaves to kill people. He was onlyfrightening my people, and doing me an injury. I told him that Baker hadonly twelve people, and came near to this: to this he replied "Were thepeople cannibals?" &c. &c. 

I left this noisy demagogue, after saying I thanked him for hiswarnings, but saw he knew not what he was saying. The traders from Ujijiare simply marauders, and their people worse than themselves, theythirst for blood more than for ivory, each longs to be able to tell atale of blood, and the Manyuema are an easy prey. Hassani assaulted thepeople at Moené Lualaba's, and now they keep to the other bank, and I amforced to bargain with Kasonga for a canoe, and he sends to a friend forone to be seen on the 13th. This Hassani declared to me that he wouldnot begin hostilities, but he began nothing else; the prospect ofgetting slaves overpowers all else, and blood flows in horrid streams. The Lord look on it! Hassani will have some tale to tell MohamadBogharib. 

[At the outset of his explorations Livingstone fancied that there weredegrees in the sufferings of slaves, and that the horrors perpetrated bythe Portuguese of Tette were unknown in the system of slave huntingwhich the Arabs pursue: we now see that a further acquaintance with theslave-trade of the Interior has restored the balance of infamy, and thatthe same tale of murder and destruction is common wherever the trafficextends, no matter by whom it is carried on. ]

_15th March, 1871. _--Falsehood seems ingrained in their constitutions:no wonder that in all this region they have never tried to propagateIslamism; the natives soon learn to hate them, and slaving, as carriedon by the Kilwans and Ujijians, is so bloody, as to prove an effectualbarrier against proselytism. 

My men are not come back: I fear they are engaged in some broil. Inconfirmation of what I write, some of the party here assaulted a villageof Kasonga's, killed three men and captured women and children; theypretended that they did not know them to be his people, but they did notreturn the captives. 

_20th March, 1871. _--I am heartsore, and sick of human blood. 

_21st March, 1871. _--Kasongo's brother's child died, and he asked me toremain to-day while he buried the dead, and he would give me a guideto-morrow; being rainy I stop willingly. Dugumbé is said to purposegoing down the river to Kanagumbé River to build on the land Kanagumbé, which is a loop formed by the river, and is large. He is believed topossess great power of divination, even of killing unfaithful women. 

_22nd March, 1871. _--I am detained another day by the sickness of one ofthe party. Very cold rain yesterday from the north-west. I hope to goto-morrow towards the Lakoni, or great market of this region. 

_23rd March, 1871. _--Left Kasongo, who gave me a goat and a guide. Thecountry is gently undulating, showing green slopes fringed with wood, with grass from four to six feet. We reached Katenga's, about five milesoff. There are many villages, and people passed us carrying loads ofprovisions, and cassava, from the chitoka or market. 

_24th March, 1871. _--Great rain in the night and morning, and sicknessof the men prevented our march. 

_25th March, 1871. _--Went to Mazimwé, 7-1/2 miles off. 

_26th March, 1871. _--Went four miles and crossed the Kabwimaji; then amile beyond Kahembai, which flows into the Kunda, and it into theLualaba; the country is open, and low hills appear in the north. We meta party from the traders at Kasenga, chiefly Materéka's people underSalem and Syde bin Sultan; they had eighty-two captives, and say theyfought ten days to secure them and two of the Malongwana, and two of theBanyamwezi. They had about twenty tusks, and carried one of their menwho broke his leg in fighting; we shall be safe only when past thebloodshed and murder. 

_27th March, 1871. _--We went along a ridge of land overhanging a finevalley of denudation, with well-cultivated hills in the distance (N. ), where Hassani's feat of bloodshed was performed. There are many villageson the ridge, some rather tumbledown ones, which always indicate somemisrule. Our march was about seven miles. A headman who went with usplagued another chief to give me a goat; I refused to take what was notgiven willingly, but the slaves secured it; and I threatened ourcompanion, Kama, with dismissal from our party if he became a tool inslave hands. The arum is common. 

_28th March, 1871. _--The Banian slaves are again trying compulsion--Idon't know what for. They refused to take their bead rations, and madeChakanga spokesman: I could not listen to it, as he has been concoctinga mutiny against me. It is excessively trying, and so many difficultieshave been put in my way I doubt whether the Divine favour and will is onmy side. 

We came six miles to-day, crossing many rivulets running to the Kunda, which also we crossed in a canoe; it is almost thirty yards wide anddeep: afterwards, near the village where we slept, we crossed the Lujaabout twenty yards wide, going into the Kunda and Lualaba. I am greatlydistressed because there is no law here; they probably mean to create adisturbance at Abed's place, to which we are near: the Lord look on it. 

_29th March, 1871. _--Crossed the Liya, and next day the Moangoi, by twowell-made wattle bridges at an island in its bed: it is twenty yards, and has a very strong current, which makes all the market people fearit. We then crossed the Molembé in a canoe, which is fifteen yards, butswelled by rains and many rills. Came 7-1/2 miles to sleep at one of theoutlying villages of Nyangwé: about sixty market people came past usfrom the Chitoka or marketplace, on the banks of Lualaba; they gothither at night, and come away about mid-day, having disposed of most oftheir goods by barter. The country is open, and dotted over with trees, chiefly a species of Bauhinia, that resists the annual grass burnings;there are trees along the watercourses, and many villages, each with ahost of pigs. This region is low as compared with Tanganyika; about2000 feet above the sea. 

The headman's house, in which I was lodged, contained the housewife'slittle conveniences, in the shape of forty pots, dishes, baskets, knives, mats, all of which she removed to another house: I gave her fourstrings of beads, and go on to-morrow. Crossed the Kunda River and sevenmiles more brought us to Nyañgwé, where we found Abed and Hassani haderected their dwellings, and sent their people over Lualaba, and as farwest as the Loéki or Lomamé. Abed said that my words againstbloodshedding had stuck into him, and he had given orders to his peopleto give presents to the chiefs, but never fight unless actuallyattacked. 

_31st March, 1871. _--I went down to take a good look at the Lualabahere. It is narrower than it is higher up, but still a mighty river, atleast 3000 yards broad, and always deep: it can never be waded at anypoint, or at any time of the year; the people unhesitatingly declarethat if any one tried to ford it, he would assuredly be lost. It hasmany large islands, and at these it is about 2000 yards or one mile. Thebanks are steep and deep: there is clay, and a yellow-clay schist intheir structure; the other rivers, as the Luya and Kunda, have gravellybanks. The current is about two miles an hour away to the north. 

FOOTNOTES:

[11] The epidemic here mentioned reached Zanzibar Island from theinterior of Africa by way of the Masai caravan route and Pangani. Dr. Kirk says it again entered Africa from Zanzibar, and followed thecourse of the caravans to Ujiji and Manyuema. --ED. 

[12] The men give indisputable proof that his body was eaten by theManyuema who lay in ambush. --ED. 

[13] Kaniké is a blue calico. 

CHAPTER V. 

 The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises ink. Builds a new house at Nyañgwé on the bank of the Lualaba. Marketing. Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market. Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomamé. Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress. Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river. Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river. Livingstone becomes desponding. 

_1st April, 1871. _--The banks are well peopled, but one must see thegathering at the market, of about 3000, chiefly women, to judge of theirnumbers. They hold market one day, and then omit attendance here forthree days, going to other markets at other points in the intervals. Itis a great institution in Manyuema: numbers seem to inspire confidence, and they enforce justice for each other. As a rule, all prefer to buyand sell in the market, to doing business anywhere else; if one says, "Come, sell me that fowl or cloth, " the reply is, "Come to the'Chitoka, ' or marketplace. "

_2nd April, 1871. _--To-day the market contained over a thousand people, carrying earthen pots and cassava, grass cloth, fishes, and fowls; theywere alarmed at my coming among them and were ready to flee, many stoodafar off in suspicion; some came from the other side of the river withtheir goods. To-morrow market is held up river. 

_3rd April, 1871. _--I tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight onthe key of the watch, and so helping it on: I will try this in a quietplace to-morrow. The people all fear us, and they have good reason forit in the villainous conduct of many of the blackguard half-castes whichalarms them: I cannot get a canoe, so I wait to see what will turn up. The river is said to overflow all its banks annually, as the Nile doesfurther down. I sounded across yesterday. Near the bank it is 9 feet, the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 20 feet: between theislands 12 feet, and 9 feet again in shore: it is a mighty river truly. I took distances and altitudes alternately with a bullet for a weight onthe key of the chronometer, taking successive altitudes of the sun anddistances of the moon. Possibly the first and last altitudes may givethe rate of going, and the frequent distances between may giveapproximate longitude. 

_4th April, 1871. _--Moon, the fourth of the Arabs, will appear in threeor four days. This will be a guide in ascertaining the day of observingthe lunars, with the weight. 

The Arabs ask many questions about the Bible, and want to know how manyprophets have appeared, and probably say that they believe in them all;while we believe all but reject Mohamad. It is easy to drive them into acorner by questioning, as they don't know whither the inquiries lead, and they are not offended when their knowledge is, as it were, admitted. When asked how many false prophets are known, they appeal to myknowledge, and evidently never heard of Balaam, the son of Beor, or ofthe 250 false prophets of Jezebel and Ahab, or of the many lyingprophets referred to in the Bible. 

_6th April, 1871. _--Ill from drinking two cups of very sweet malofu, orbeer, made from bananas: I shall touch it no more. 

_7th April, 1871. _--Made this ink with the seeds of a plant, called bythe Arabs Zugifaré; it is known in India, and is used here by theManyuema to dye virambos and ornament faces and heads. [14] I sent mypeople over to the other side to cut wood to build a house for me; theborrowed one has mud walls and floors, which are damp, foul, smelling, and unwholesome. I shall have grass walls, and grass and reeds on thefloor of my own house; the free ventilation will keep it sweet. This isthe season called Masika, the finishing rains, which we have in largequantities almost every night, and I could scarcely travel even if I hada canoe; still it is trying to be kept back by suspicion, and by thewickedness of the wicked. 

Some of the Arabs try to be kind, and send cooked food every day: Abedis the chief donor. I taught him to make a mosquito-curtain of thinprinted calico, for he had endured the persecution of these insectshelplessly, except by sleeping on a high stage, when they were unusuallybad. The Manyuema often bring evil on themselves by being untrustworthy. For instance, I paid one to bring a large canoe to cross the Lualaba, hebrought a small one, capable of carrying three only, and after wastingsome hours we had to put off crossing till next day. 

_8th April, 1871. _--Every headman of four or five huts is a mologhwé, orchief, and glories in being called so. There is no political cohesion. The Ujijian slavery is an accursed system; but it must be admitted thatthe Manyuema, too, have faults, the result of ignorance of other people:their isolation has made them as unconscious of danger in dealing withthe cruel stranger, as little dogs in the presence of lions. Theirrefusal to sell or lend canoes for fear of blame by each other will beended by the party of Dugumbé, which has ten headmen, taking them byforce; they are unreasonable and bloody-minded towards each other: everyManyuema would like every other headman slain; they are subjected tobitter lessons and sore experience. Abed went over to Mologhwé Kahembéand mixed blood with him; he was told that two large canoes werehollowed out, and nearly ready to be brought for sale; if this can bemanaged peaceably it is a great point gained, and I may get one at ourArabs' price, which may be three or four times the native price. Thereis no love lost among the three Arabs here. 

_9th April, 1871. _--Cut wood for my house. The Loéki is said by slaveswho have come thence to be much larger than the Lualaba, but on thereturn of Abed's people from the west we shall obtain betterinformation. 

_10th April, 1871. _--Chitoka, or market, to-day. I counted upwards of700 passing my door. With market women it seems to be a pleasure of lifeto haggle and joke, and laugh and cheat: many come eagerly, and retirewith careworn faces; many are beautiful, and many old; all carry veryheavy loads of dried cassava and earthen pots, which they dispose ofvery cheaply for palm-oil, fish, salt, pepper, and relishes for theirfood. The men appear in gaudy lambas, and carry little save their ironwares, fowls, grass cloth, and pigs. 

Bought the fish with the long snouts: very good eating. 

_12th April, 1871. _--New moon last night; fourth Arab month: I am at aloss for the day of the month. My new house is finished; a greatcomfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin: bugs (Tapazi, orticks), that follow wherever Arabs go, made me miserable, but the Arabsare insensible to them; Abed alone had a mosquito-curtain, and he nevercould praise it enough. One of his remarks is, "If slaves think youfear them, they will climb over you. " I clothed mine for nothing, andever after they have tried to ride roughshod over me, and mutiny onevery occasion!

_14th April, 1871. _--Kahembé came over, and promises to bring a canoe;but he is not to be trusted; he presented Abed with two slaves, and isfull of fair promises about the canoe, which he sees I am anxious toget. They all think that my buying a canoe means carrying war to theleft bank; and now my Banian slaves encourage the idea: "He does notwish slaves nor ivory, " say they, "but a canoe, in order to killManyuema. " Need it be wondered at that people, who had never heard ofstrangers or white men before I popped down among them, believed theslander? The slaves were aided in propagating the false accusation bythe half-caste Ujijian slaves at the camp. Hassani fed them every day;and, seeing that he was a bigoted Moslem, they equalled him in prayersin his sitting-place seven or eight times a day! They were adepts atlying, and the first Manyuema words they learned were used to propagatefalsehood. 

I have been writing part of a despatch, in case of meeting people fromthe French settlement on the Gaboon at Loéki, but the canoe affair isslow and tedious: the people think only of war: they are a bloody-mindedrace. 

_15th April, 1871. _--The Manyuema tribe, called Bagenya, occupy the leftbank, opposite Nyañgwé. A spring of brine rises in the bed of a river, named Lofubu, and this the Bayenga inspissate by boiling, and sell thesalt at market. The Lomamé is about ten days west of Lualaba, and verylarge; the confluence of Lomamé, or Loéki, is about six days down belowNyañgwé by canoe; the river Nyanzé is still less distant. 

_16th April, 1871. _--On the Nyanzé stands the principal town and marketof the chief, Zurampela. Rashid visited him, and got two slaves onpromising to bring a war-party from Abed against Chipangé, who bysimilar means obtained the help of Salem Mokadam to secure eighty-twocaptives: Rashid will leave this as soon as possible, sell the slaves, and leave Zurampela to find out the fraud! This deceit, which is anaverage specimen of the beginning of half-caste dealings, vitiates hisevidence of a specimen of cannibalism which he witnessed; but it wasafter a fight that the victims were cut up, and this agrees with thefact that the Manyuema eat only those who are killed in war. Some haveaverred that captives, too, are eaten, and a slave is bought with a goatto be eaten; but this I very strongly doubt. 

_17th April, 1871. _--Rainy. 

_18th April, 1871. _--I found that the Lepidosiren is brought to marketin pots with water in them, also white ants roasted, and the largesnail, achetina, and a common snail: the Lepidosiren is called"_sembé_. "

Abed went a long way to examine a canoe, but it was still further, andhe turned back. 

_19th April, 1871. _--Dreary waiting, but Abed proposes to join and tradealong with me: this will render our party stronger, and he will notshoot people in my company; we shall hear Katomba's people's story too. 

_20th April, 1871. _--Katomba a chief was to visit us yesterday, butfailed, probably through fear. 

The chief Mokandira says that Loéki is small where it joins Lualaba, butanother, which they call Lomamé, is very much larger, and joins Lualabatoo: rapids are reported on it. 

_21st April, 1871. _--A common salutation reminds me of the Bechuana's "Ule hatsi" (thou art on earth); "Ua tala" (thou lookest); "Ua boka, " orbyoka (thou awakest); "U ri ho" (thou art here); "U li koni" (thou arthere)--about pure "Sichuana, " and "Nya, " No, is identical. The men heredeny that cannibalism is common: they eat only those killed in war, and, it seems, in revenge, for, said Mokandira, "the meat is not nice; itmakes one dream of the dead man. " Some west of Lualaba eat even thosebought for the purpose of a feast; but I am not quite positive on thispoint: all agree in saying that human flesh is saltish, and needs butlittle condiment. And yet they are a fine-looking race; I would back acompany of Manyuema men to be far superior in shape of head andgenerally in physical form too against the whole AnthropologicalSociety. Many of the women are very light-coloured and very pretty; theydress in a kilt of many folds of gaudy lambas. 

_22nd April, 1871. _--In Manyuema, here Kusi, Kunzi, is north; Mhuru, south; Nkanda, west, or other side Lualaba; Mazimba, east. The peopleare sometimes confused in name by the directions; thus Bankanda is only"the other side folk. " The Bagenya Chimburu came to visit me, but I didnot see him, nor did I know Moené Nyañgwé till too late to do himhonour; in fact, every effort was made to keep me in the dark while theslavers of Ujiji made all smooth for themselves to get canoes. Allchiefs claim the privilege of shaking hands, that is, they touch thehand held out with their palm, then clap two hands together, then touchagain, and clap again, and the ceremony concludes: this frequency ofshaking hands misled me when the great man came. 

_24th April, 1871. _--Old feuds lead the Manyuema to entrap the tradersto fight: they invite them to go to trade, and tell them that at such avillage plenty of ivory lies; then when the trader goes with his people, word is sent that he is coming to fight, and he is met by enemies, whocompel him to defend himself by their onslaught. We were nearlyentrapped in this way by a chief pretending to guide us through thecountry near Basilañgé; he would have landed us in a fight, but wedetected his drift, changed our course so as to mislead any messengershe might have sent, and dismissed him with some sharp words. 

Lake Kamolondo is about twenty-five miles broad. The Lufira at Katangais a full bow-shot wide; it goes into Kamolondo. Chakomo is east ofLufira Junction. Kikonzé Kalanza is on the west of it, and Mkana, or theunderground dwellings, still further west: some are only two days fromKatanga. The Chorwé people are friendly. Kamolondo is about ten daysdistant from Katanga. 

_25th April, 1871. _--News came that four men sent by Abed to buy ivoryhad been entrapped, and two killed. The rest sent for aid to punish themurderers, and Abed wished me to send my people to bring the remainingtwo men back. I declined; because, no matter what charges I gave, myBanian slaves would be sure to shed human blood. We can go nowhere butthe people of the country ask us to kill their fellow-men, nor can theybe induced to go to villages three miles off, because there, in allprobability, live the murderers of fathers, uncles, or grandfathers--adreadful state truly. The traders are as bloodthirsty every whit as theManyuema, where no danger exists, but in most cases where the people canfight they are as civil as possible. At Moeré Mpanda's, the son ofCasembe, Mohamad Bogharib left a debt of twenty-eight slaves and eightbars of copper, each seventy pounds, and did not dare to fire a shotbecause they saw they had met their match: here his headmen are said tohave bound the headmen of villages till a ransom was paid in tusks! Hadthey only gone three days further to the Babisa, to whom Moene-mokaia'smen went, they would have got fine ivory at two rings a tusk, while theyhad paid from ten to eighteen. Here it is as sad a tale to tell as wasthat of the Manganja scattered and peeled by the Waiyau agents of thePortuguese of Tétte. The good Lord look on it. 

_26th April, 1871. _--Chitovu called nine slaves bought by Abed's peoplefrom the Kuss country, west of the Lualaba, and asked them about theirtribes and country for me. One, with his upper front teeth extracted, was of the tribe Maloba, on the other side of the Loéki, another comesfrom the River Lombadzo, or Lombazo, which is west of Loéki (this may beanother name for the Lomamé), the country is called Nanga, and the tribeNoñgo, chief Mpunzo. The Malobo tribe is under the chiefs Yunga andLomadyo. Another toothless boy said that he came from the Lomamé: theupper teeth extracted seem to say that the tribe have cattle; theknocking out the teeth is in imitation of the animals they almostworship. No traders had ever visited them; this promises ivory to thepresent visitors: all that is now done with the ivory there is to makerude blowing horns and bracelets. 

_27th April, 1871. _--Waiting wearily and anxiously; we cannot movepeople who are far off and make them come near with news. Even theowners of canoes say, "Yes, yes; we shall bring them, " but do not stir;they doubt us, and my slaves increase the distrust by their lies to theManyuema. 

_28th April, 1871. _--Abed sent over Manyuema to buy slaves for him andgot a pretty woman for 300 cowries and a hundred strings of beads; shecan be sold again to an Arab for much more in ivory. Abed himself gave$130 for a woman-cook, and she fled to me when put in chains for somecrime: I interceded, and she was loosed: I advised her not to offendagain, because I could not beg for her twice. 

Hassani with ten slaves dug at the malachite mines of Katanga for threemonths, and gained a hundred frasilahs of copper, or 3500 lbs. We hearof a half-caste reaching the other side of Lomamé, probably from Congoor Ambriz, but the messengers had not seen him. 

_1st May, 1871. _--Katomba's people arrived from the Babisa, where theysold all their copper at two rings for a tusk, and then found thatabundance of ivory still remained: door-posts and house-pillars had beenmade of ivory which now was rotten. The people of Babisa kill elephantsnow and bring tusks by the dozen, till the traders get so many that inthis case they carried them by three relays. They dress their hair likethe Bashukulompo, plaited into upright basket helmets: no quarreloccurred, and great kindness was shown to the strangers. A river havingvery black water, the Nyengeré, flows into Lualaba from the west, and itbecomes itself very large: another river or water, Shamikwa, falls intoit from the south-west, and it becomes still larger: this is probablythe Lomamé. A short-horned antelope is common. 

_3rd May, 1871. _--Abed informs me that a canoe will come in five days. Word was sent after me by the traders south of us not to aid me, as Iwas sure to die where I was going: the wish is father to the thought!Abed was naturally very anxious to get first into the Babisa ivorymarket, yet he tried to secure a canoe for me before he went, but he wastoo eager, and a Manyuema man took advantage of his desire, and cameover the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and he wantedgoats and beads to hire people to drag it down to the water. Abed on myaccount advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and many beads, andsaid that he would tell me what he wished in return: this was debt, butI was so anxious to get away I was content to take the canoe on anyterms. However, it turned out that the matter on the part of the headmanwhom Abed trusted was all deception: he had no canoe at all, but knew ofone belonging to another man, and wished to get Abed and me to send mento see it--in fact, to go with their guns, and he would manage toembroil them with the real owner, so that some old feud should besettled to his satisfaction. On finding that I declined to be led intohis trap, he took a female slave to the owner, and on his refusal tosell the canoe for her, it came out that he had adopted a system offraud to Abed. He had victimized Abed, who was naturally inclined tobelieve his false statements, and get off to the ivory market. Hispeople came from the Kuss country in the west with sixteen tusks, and agreat many slaves bought and not murdered for. The river is rising fast, and bringing down large quantities of aquatic grass, duckweed, &c. Thewater is a little darker in colour than at Cairo. People remove andbuild their huts on the higher forest lands adjacent. Many white birds(the paddy bird) appear, and one Ibis religiosa; they pass north. 

The Bakuss live near Lomamé; they were very civil and kind to thestrangers, but refused passage into the country. At my suggestion, theeffect of a musket-shot was shown on a goat: they thought itsupernatural, looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to buythe charm that could draw lightning down. When it was afterwardsattempted to force a path, they darted aside on seeing the Banyamwezi'sfollowers putting the arrows into the bowstrings, but stood in muteamazement looking at the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers. They thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Theirchiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity ofblack medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in their hands: theyimagined that the guns were carried as insignia of the same kind; some, jeering in the south, called them big tobacco-pipes; they have no fearon seeing a gun levelled at them. 

They use large and very long spears very expertly in the long grass andforest of their country, and are terrible fellows among themselves, andwhen they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to thestrangers who now murder them. The Manyuema say truly, "If it were notfor your guns, not one of you would ever return to your country. " TheBakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially Pennisetumand dura, or _Holeus sorghum;_ common coffee is abundant, and they useit, highly scented with vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects;they hand round cups of it after meals. Pineapples too are abundant. They bathe regularly twice a day: their houses are of two storeys. Thewomen have rather compressed heads, but very pleasant countenances; andancient Egyptian, round, wide-awake eyes. Their numbers are prodigious;the country literally swarms with people, and a chief's town extendsupwards of a mile. But little of the primeval forest remains. Many largepools of standing water have to be crossed, but markets are held everyeight or ten miles from each other, and to these the people come fromfar, for the market is as great an institution as shopping is with thecivilized. Illicit intercourse is punished by the whole of theoffender's family being enslaved. 

The Bakuss smelt copper from the ore and sell it very cheaply to thetraders for beads. The project of going in canoes now appeared to thehalf-castes so plausible, that they all tried to get the Bagenya on thewest bank to lend them, and all went over to mix blood and make friendswith the owners, then all slandered me as not to be trusted, as theytheir blood-relations were; and my slaves mutinied and would go nofurther. They mutinied three times here, and Hassani harboured them tillI told him that, if an English officer harboured an Arab slave he wouldbe compelled by the Consul to refund the price, and I certainly wouldnot let him escape; this frightened him; but I was at the mercy ofslaves who had no honour, and no interest in going into danger. 

_16th May, 1871. _--Abed gave me a frasilah of Matunda beads, and Ireturned fourteen fathoms of fine American sheeting, but it was anobligation to get beads from one whose wealth depended on exchangingbeads for ivory. 

_16th May, 1871. _--At least 3000 people at market to-day, and my goingamong them has taken away the fear engendered by the slanders of slavesand traders, for all are pleased to tell me the names of the fishes andother things. Lepidosirens are caught by the neck and lifted out of thepot to show their fatness. Camwood ground and made into flat cakes forsale and earthen balls, such as are eaten in the disease safura orearth-eating, are offered and there is quite a roar of voices in themultitude, haggling. It was pleasant to be among them compared to beingwith the slaves, who were all eager to go back to Zanzibar: some told methat they were slaves, and required a free man to thrash them, andproposed to go back to Ujiji for one. I saw no hope of getting on withthem, and anxiously longed for the arrival of Dugumbé; and at last Abedoverheard them plotting my destruction. "If forced to go on, they wouldwatch till the first difficulty arose with the Manyuema, then fire offtheir guns, run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, leave meto perish. " Abed overheard them speaking loudly, and advised me stronglynot to trust myself to them any more, as they would be sure to cause mydeath. He was all along a sincere friend, and I could not but take hiswords as well-meant and true. 

_18th May, 1871. _--Abed gave me 200 cowries and some green beads. I wasat the point of disarming my slaves and driving them away, when theyrelented, and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, being eager tofinish my geographical work, I said I would run the risk of theirdesertion, and gave beads to buy provisions for a start north. I cannotstate how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, who did much toannoy me, with the sympathy of all the slaving crew. When baffled byuntoward circumstances the bowels plague me too, and discharges of bloodrelieve the headache, and are as safety-valves to the system. I wasnearly persuaded to allow Mr. Syme to operate on me when last inEngland, but an old friend told me that his own father had been operatedon by the famous John Hunter, and died in consequence at the early ageof forty. His advice saved me, for this complaint has been mysafety-valve. 

The Zingifuré, or red pigment, is said to be a cure for itch commonamong both natives and Arab slaves and Arab children. 

_20th May, 1871. _--Abed called Kalonga the headman, who beguiled him asI soon found, and delivered the canoe he had bought formally to me, andwent off down the Lualaba on foot to buy the Babisa ivory. I was tofollow in the canoe and wait for him in the River Luéra, but soon Iascertained that the canoe was still in the forest, and did not belongto Kalonga. On demanding back the price he said, "Let Abed come and Iwill give it to him;" then when I sent to force him to give up thegoods, all his village fled into the forest: I now tried to buy onemyself from the Bagenya, but there was no chance; so long as thehalf-caste traders needed any they got all--nine large canoes, and Icould not secure one. 

_24th May, 1871. _--The market is a busy scene--everyone is in deadearnest--little time is lost in friendly greetings; vendors of fish runabout with potsherds full of snails or small fishes or young _Clariascapensis_ smoke-dried and spitted on twigs, or other relishes toexchange for cassava roots dried after being steeped about three days inwater--potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm-oil, fowls, salt, pepper; each is intensely eager to barter food for relishes, andmakes strong assertions as to the goodness or badness of everything: thesweat stands in beads on their faces--cocks crow briskly, even whenslung over the shoulder with their heads hanging down, and pigs squeal. Iron knobs, drawn out at each end to show the goodness of the metal, areexchanged for cloth of the Muabé palm. They have a large funnel ofbasket-work below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods downif they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences arisethey are easily settled by the men interfering or pointing to me: theyappeal to each other, and have a strong sense of natural justice. Withso much food changing hands amongst the three thousand attendants muchbenefit is derived; some come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The menflaunt about in gaudy-coloured lambas of many folded kilts--the womenwork hardest--the potters slap and ring their earthenware all round, toshow that there is not a single flaw in them. I bought two finely shapedearthen bottles of porous earthenware, to hold a gallon each, for onestring of beads, the women carry huge loads of them in their funnelsabove the baskets, strapped to the shoulders and forehead, and theirhands are full besides; the roundness of the vessels is wonderful, seeing no machine is used: no slaves could be induced to carry half asmuch as they do willingly. It is a scene of the finest natural actingimaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions aremade--the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation, above, around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of what theyallege--and then the intense surprise and withering scorn cast on thosewho despise their goods: but they show no concern when the buyers turnup their noses at them. Little girls run about selling cups of water fora few small fishes to the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it wasan amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off theirglib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to needinterpretation. 

_27th May, 1871. _--Hassani told me that since he had come, no Manyuemahad ever presented him with a single mouthful of food, not even a potatoor banana, and he had made many presents. Going from him into the marketI noticed that one man presented a few small fishes, another a sweetpotato and a piece of cassava, and a third two small fishes, but theManyuema are not a liberal people. Old men and women who remained in thehalf-deserted villages we passed through in coming north, often ranforth to present me with bananas, but it seemed through fear; when I satdown and ate the bananas they brought beer of bananas, and I paid forall. A stranger in the market had ten human under jaw-bones hung by astring over his shoulder: on inquiry he professed to have killed andeaten the owners, and showed with his knife how he cut up his victim. When I expressed disgust he and others laughed. I see new faces everymarket-day. Two nice girls were trying to sell their venture, which wasroasted white ants, called "Gumbé. "

_30th May, 1871. _--The river fell four inches during the last four days;the colour is very dark brown, and large quantities of aquatic plantsand trees float down. Mologhwé, or chief Ndambo, came and mixed bloodwith the intensely bigoted Moslem, Hassani: this is to secure the ninecanoes. He next went over to have more palaver about them, and they donot hesitate to play me false by detraction. The Manyuema, too, areuntruthful, but very honest; we never lose an article by them: fowls andgoats are untouched, and if a fowl is lost, we know that it has beenstolen by an Arab slave. When with Mohamad Bogharib, we had all to keepour fowls at the Manyuema villages to prevent them being stolen by ourown slaves, and it is so here. Hassani denies complicity with them, butit is quite apparent that he and others encourage them in mutiny. 

_5th June, 1871. _--The river rose again six inches and fell three. Rainnearly ceased, and large masses of fleecy clouds float down here fromthe north-west, with accompanying cold. 

_7th June, 1871. _--I fear that I must march on foot, but the mud isforbidding. 

_11th June, 1871. _--New moon last night, and I believe Dugumbé willleave Kasonga's to-day. River down three inches. 

_14th June, 1871. _--Hassani got nine canoes, and put sixty-three personsin three; I cannot get one. Dugumbé reported near, but detained by hisdivination, at which he is an expert; hence his native name is"Molembalemba"--"writer, writing. "

_16th June, 1871. _--The high winds and drying of soap and sugar tellthat the rains are now over in this part. 

_18th June, 1871. _--Dugumbé arrived, but passed to Moené Nyañgwé's, andfound that provisions were so scarce, and dear there, as compared withour market, that he was fain to come back to us. He has a large partyand 500 guns. He is determined to go into new fields of trade, and hasall his family with him, and intends to remain six or seven years, sending regularly to Ujiji for supplies of goods. 

_20th June, 1871. _--Two of Dugumbé's party brought presents of fourlarge fundos of beads each. All know that my goods are unrighteouslydetained by Shereef and they show me kindness, which I return by somefine calico which I have. Among the first words Dugumbé said to me were, "Why your own slaves are your greatest enemies: I will buy you a canoe, but the Banian slaves' slanders have put all the Manyuema against you. "I knew that this was true, and that they were conscious of the sympathyof the Ujijian traders, who hate to have me here. 

_24th June, 1871. _--Hassani's canoe party in the river were foiled bynarrows, after they had gone down four days. Rocks jut out on bothsides, not opposite, but alternate to each other; and the vast mass ofwater of the great river jammed in, rushes round one promontory on toanother, and a frightful whirlpool is formed in which the first canoewent and was overturned, and five lives lost. Had I been there, minewould have been the first canoe, for the traders would have made it apoint of honour to give me the precedence (although actually to make afeeler of me), while they looked on in safety. The men in charge ofHassani's canoes were so frightened by this accident that they at onceresolved to return, though they had arrived in the country of the ivory:they never looked to see whether the canoes could be dragged past thenarrows, as anyone else would have done. No better luck could beexpected after all their fraud and duplicity in getting the canoes; noharm lay in obtaining them, but why try to prevent me getting one?

_27th June, 1871. _--In answer to my prayers for preservation, I wasprevented going down to the narrows, formed by a dyke of mountainscutting across country, and jutting a little ajar, which makes the waterin an enormous mass wheel round behind it helplessly, and if the canoesreach the rock against which the water dashes, they are almost certainlyoverturned. As this same dyke probably cuts across country to Lomamé, myplan of going to the confluence and then up won't do, for I should haveto go up rapids there. Again, I was prevented from going down Luamo, andon the north of its confluence another cataract mars navigation in theLualaba, and my safety is thereby secured. We don't always know thedangers that we are guided past. 

_28th June, 1871. _--The river has fallen two feet: dark brown water, andstill much wreck floating down. 

Eight villages are in flames, set fire to by a slave of Syde bin Habib, called Manilla, who thus shows his blood friends of the Bagenya how wellhe can fight against the Mohombo, whose country the Bagenya want! Thestragglers of this camp are over on the other side helping Manilla, andcatching fugitives and goats. The Bagenya are fishermen by taste andprofession, and sell the produce of their nets and weirs to those whocultivate the soil, at the different markets. Manilla's foray is for analleged debt of three slaves, and ten villages are burned. 

_30th June, 1871. _--Hassani pretended that he was not aware of Manilla'sforay, and when I denounced it to Manilla himself, he showed that he wasa slave, by cringing and saying nothing except something about the debtof three slaves. 

_1st July, 1871. _--I made known my plan to Dugumbé, which was to gowest with his men to Lomamé, then by his aid buy a canoe and go up LakeLincoln to Katanga and the fountains, examine the inhabited caves, andreturn here, if he would let his people bring me goods from Ujiji; heagain referred to all the people being poisoned in mind against me, butwas ready to do everything in his power for my success. My own peoplepersuaded the Bagenya not to sell a canoe: Hassani knows it all, butswears that he did not join in the slander, and even points up to Heavenin attestation of innocence of all, even of Manilla's foray. Mohamadansare certainly famous as liars, and the falsehood of Mohamad has beentransmitted to his followers in a measure unknown in other religions. 

_2nd July, 1871. _--The upper stratum of clouds is from the north-west, the lower from the south-east; when they mix or change places thetemperature is much lowered, and fever ensues. The air evidently comesfrom the Atlantic, over the low swampy lands of the West Coast. Morningfogs show that the river is warmer than the air. 

_4th July, 1871. _--Hassani off down river in high dudgeon at the cowardswho turned after reaching the ivory country. He leaves them here andgoes himself, entirely on land. I gave him hints to report himself andme to Baker, should he meet any of his headmen. 

_5th July, 1871. _--The river has fallen three feet in all, that is onefoot since 27th June. 

I offer Dugumbé $2000, or 400_l. _, for ten men to replace the Banianslaves, and enable me to go up the Lomamé to Katanga and the undergrounddwellings, then return and go up by Tanganyika to Ujiji, and I addedthat I would give all the goods I had at Ujiji besides: he took a fewdays to consult with his associates. 

_6th July, 1871. _--Mokandira, and other headmen, came with a present ofa pig and a goat on my being about to depart west. I refused to receivethem till my return, and protested against the slander of my wishing tokill people, which they all knew, but did not report to me: this refusaland protest will ring all over the country. 

_7th July, 1871. _--I was annoyed by a woman frequently beating a slavenear my house, but on my reproving her she came and apologized. I toldher to speak softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother thegirl had; the slave came from beyond Lomamé, and was evidently a lady inher own land; she calls her son Mologwé, or chief, because his fatherwas a headman. 

Dugumbé advised my explaining my plan of procedure to the slaves, and heevidently thinks that I wish to carry it towards them with a high hand. I did explain all the exploration I intended to do: for instance, thefountains of Herodotus--beyond Katanga--Katanga itself, and theunderground dwellings, and then return. They made no remarks, for theyare evidently pleased to have me knuckling down to them; when pressed onthe point of proceeding, they say they will only go with Dugumbé's mento the Lomamé, and then return. River fallen three inches since the 5th. 

_10th July, 1871. _--Manyuema children do not creep, as European childrendo, on their knees, but begin by putting forward one foot and using oneknee. Generally a Manyuema child uses both feet and both hands, butnever both knees: one Arab child did the same; he never crept, but gotup on both feet, holding on till he could walk. 

New moon last night of seventh Arab month. 

_11th July, 1871. _--I bought the different species of fish brought tomarket, in order to sketch eight of them, and compare them with those ofthe Nile lower down: most are the same as in Nyassa. A very activespecies of Glanis, of dark olive-brown, was not sketched, but a spottedone, armed with offensive spikes in the dorsal and pectoral fins, wastaken. Sesamum seed is abundant just now and cakes are made ofground-nuts, as on the West Coast. Dugumbé's horde tried to deal in themarket in a domineering way. "I shall buy that, " said one. "These aremine, " said another; "no one must touch them but me, " but themarket-women taught them that they could not monopolize, but dealfairly. They are certainly clever traders, and keep each other incountenance, they stand by each other, and will not allow overreaching, and they give food astonishingly cheap: once in the market they have nofear. 

_12th and 13th July 1871. _--The Banian slaves declared before Dugumbéthat they would go to the River Lomamé, but no further: he spoke long tothem, but they will not consent to go further. When told that they wouldthereby lose all their pay, they replied, "Yes, but not our lives, " andthey walked off from him muttering, which is insulting to one of hisrank. I then added, "I have goods at Ujiji; I don't know how many, butthey are considerable, take them all, and give me men to finish my work;if not enough, I will add to them, only do not let me be forced toreturn now I am so near the end of my undertaking. " He said he wouldmake a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report to me. 

_14th July, 1871. _--I am distressed and perplexed what to do so as notto be foiled, but all seems against me. 

_15th July, 1871. _--The reports of guns on the other side of the Lualabaall the morning tell of the people of Dugumbé murdering those of Kimburuand others who mixed blood with Manilla. "Manilla is a slave, and howdares he to mix blood with chiefs who ought only to make friends withfree men like us"--this is their complaint. Kimburu gave Manilla threeslaves, and he sacked ten villages in token of friendship; he proposedto give Dugumbé nine slaves in the same operation, but Dugumbé's peopledestroy his villages, and shoot and make his people captives to punishManilla; to make an impression, in fact, in the country that they aloneare to be dealt with--"make friends with us, and not with Manilla oranyone else"--such is what they insist upon. 

About 1500 people came to market, though many villages of those thatusually come from the other side were now in flames, and every now andthen a number of shots were fired on the fugitives. 

It was a hot, sultry day, and when I went into the market I saw Adie andManilla, and three of the men who had lately come with Dugumbé. I wassurprised to see these three with their guns, and felt inclined toreprove them, as one of my men did, for bringing weapons into themarket, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and, it being very hot, I was walking away to go out of the market, when I saw one of thefellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had gotthirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the middle of the crowdtold me that slaughter had begun: crowds dashed off from the place, andthrew down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the same time that thethree opened fire on the mass of people near the upper end of themarketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek onthe panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty ormore, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in theterror that seized all. The canoes were not to be got out, for the creekwas too small for so many; men and women, wounded by the balls, pouredinto them, and leaped and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A longline of heads in the river showed that great numbers struck out for anisland a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the leftshoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had struckaway diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would have aided them, and, though nearly three miles off, some would have gained land: as itwas, the heads above water showed the long line of those that wouldinevitably perish. 

Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing. Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly; whilst other poorcreatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Fatherabove, and sank. One canoe took in as many as it could hold, and allpaddled with hands and arms: three canoes, got out in haste, picked upsinking friends, till all went down together, and disappeared. One manin a long canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly losthis head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began, andnow paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to the drowning. By-and-bye all the heads disappeared; some had turned down streamtowards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbé put people into one of thedeserted vessels to save those in the water, and saved twenty-one, butone woman refused to be taken on board from thinking that she was to bemade a slave of; she preferred the chance of life by swimming, to thelot of a slave: the Bagenya women are expert in the water, as they areaccustomed to dive for oysters, and those who went down stream may haveescaped, but the Arabs themselves estimated the loss of life at between330 and 400 souls. The shooting-party near the canoes were so reckless, they killed two of their own people; and a Banyamwezi follower, who gotinto a deserted canoe to plunder, fell into the water, went down, thencame up again, and down to rise no more. 

My first impulse was to pistol the murderers, but Dugumbé protestedagainst my getting into a blood-feud, and I was thankful afterwards thatI took his advice. Two wretched Moslems asserted "that the firing wasdone by the people of the English;" I asked one of them why he lied so, and he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came to his aid as hestood abashed, before me, and so telling him not to tell palpablefalsehoods, I left him gaping. 

After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio, who wasthe chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people there and firetheir villages. As I write I hear the loud wails on the left bank overthose who are there slain, ignorant of their many friends now in thedepths of Lualaba. Oh, let Thy kingdom come! No one will ever know theexact loss on this bright sultry summer morning, it gave me theimpression of being in Hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at thefugitives on land, and plundered them: women were for hours collectingand carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror. 

Some escaped to me, and were protected: Dugumbé saved twenty-one, andof his own accord liberated them, they were brought to me, andremained over night near my house. One woman of the saved had amusket-ball through the thigh, another in the arm. I sent men with ourflag to save some, for without a flag they might have been victims, for Tagamoio's people were shooting right and left like fiends. Icounted twelve villages burning this morning. I asked the question ofDugumbé and others, "Now for what is all this murder?" All blamedManilla as its cause, and in one sense he was the cause; but it ishardly credible that they repeat it is in order to be avenged onManilla for making friends with headmen, he being a slave. I cannotbelieve it fully. The wish to make an impression in the country as tothe importance and greatness of the new comers was the most potentmotive; but it was terrible that the murdering of so many should becontemplated at all. It made me sick at heart. Who could accompany thepeople of Dugumbé and Tagamoio to Lomamé and be free fromblood-guiltiness?

I proposed to Dugumbé to catch the murderers, and hang them up in themarketplace, as our protest against the bloody deeds before theManyuema. If, as he and others added, the massacre was committed byManilla's people, he would have consented; but it was done byTagamoio's people, and others of this party, headed by Dugumbé. Thisslaughter was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as we have always heardthat women coming to or from market have never been known to bemolested: even when two districts are engaged in actual hostilities, "the women, " say they, "pass among us to market unmolested, " nor has oneever been known to be plundered by the men. These Nigger Moslems areinferior to the Manyuema in justice and right. The people under Hassanibegan the superwickedness of capture and pillage of allindiscriminately. Dugumbé promised to send over men to order Tagamoio'smen to cease firing and burning villages; they remained over among theruins, feasting on goats and fowls all night, and next day (16th)continued their infamous work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed. 

_16th July, 1871. _--I restored upwards of thirty of the rescued to theirfriends: Dugumbé seemed to act in good faith, and kept none of them; itwas his own free will that guided him. Women are delivered to theirhusbands, and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek are to be keptfor the owners too. 

12 A. M. --Shooting still going on on the other side, and many captivescaught. At 1 P. M. Tagamoio's people began to cross over in canoes, beating their drums, firing their guns, and shouting, as if to say, "Seethe conquering heroes come;" they are answered by the women of Dugumba'scamp lullilooing, and friends then fire off their guns in joy. I countseventeen villages in flames, and the smoke goes straight up and formsclouds at the top of the pillar, showing great heat evolved, for thehouses are full of carefully-prepared firewood. Dugumbé denies havingsent Tagamoio on this foray, and Tagamoio repeats that he went to punishthe friends made by Manilla, who, being a slave, had no right to makewar and burn villages, that could only be done by free men. Manillaconfesses to me privately that he did wrong in that, and loses all hisbeads and many friends in consequence. 

2 P. M. --An old man, called Kabobo, came for his old wife; I asked her ifthis were her husband, she went to him, and put her arm lovingly aroundhim, and said "Yes. " I gave her five strings of beads to buy food, allher stores being destroyed with her house; she bowed down, and put herforehead to the ground as thanks, and old Kabobo did the same: the tearsstood in her eyes as she went off. Tagamoio caught 17 women, and otherArabs of his party, 27; dead by gunshot, 25. The heads of two headmenwere brought over to be redeemed by their friends with slaves. 

3 P. M. --Many of the headmen who have been burned out by the foray cameover to me, and begged me to come back with them, and appoint newlocalities for them to settle in again, but I told them that I was soashamed of the company in which I found myself, that I could scarcelylook the Manyuema in the face. They had believed that I wished to killthem--what did they think now? I could not remain among bloodycompanions, and would flee away, I said, but they begged me hard not toleave until they were again settled. 

The open murder perpetrated on hundreds of unsuspecting women fills mewith unspeakable horror: I cannot think of going anywhere with theTagamoio crew; I must either go down or up Lualaba, whichever the Banianslaves choose. 

4 P. M. --Dugumbé saw that by killing the market people he had committed agreat error, and speedily got the chiefs who had come over to me to meethim at his house, and forthwith mix blood: they were in bad case. Icould not remain to see to their protection, and Dugumbé, being the bestof the whole horde, I advised them to make friends, and then appeal tohim as able to restrain to some extent his infamous underlings. Onechief asked to have his wife and daughter restored to him first, butgenerally they were cowed, and the fear of death was on them. Dugumbésaid to me, "I shall do my utmost to get all the captives, but he mustmake friends now, in order that the market may not be given up. " Bloodwas mixed, and an essential condition was, "You must give us chitoka, "or market. He and most others saw that in theoretically punishingManilla, they had slaughtered the very best friends that strangers had. The Banian slaves openly declare that they will go only to Lomamé, andno further. Whatever the Ujijian slavers may pretend, they all hate tohave me as a witness of their cold-blooded atrocities. The Banian slaveswould like to go with Tagamoio, and share in his rapine and get slaves. I tried to go down Lualaba, then up it, and west, but with bloodhoundsit is out of the question. I see nothing for it but to go back to Ujijifor other men, though it will throw me out of the chance of discoveringthe fourth great Lake in the Lualaba line of drainage, and other thingsof great value. 

At last I said that I would start for Ujiji, in three days, on foot. Iwished to speak to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the chiefs, but he always ran away when he saw me coming. 

_17th July, 1871. _--All the rest of Dugumbé's party offered me a shareof every kind of goods they had, and pressed me not to be ashamed totell them what I needed. I declined everything save a little gunpowder, but they all made presents of beads, and I was glad to returnequivalents in cloth. It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five daysin a straight line--equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings and windings600 English miles, and all after feeding and clothing the Banian slavesfor twenty-one months! But it is for the best though; if I do not trustto the riffraff of Ujiji, I must wait for other men at least ten monthsthere. With help from above I shall yet go through Rua, see theunderground excavations first, then on to Katanga, and the four ancientfountains eight days beyond, and after that Lake Lincoln. 

_18th July, 1871. _--The murderous assault on the market people feltto me like Gehenna, without the fire and brimstone; but the heat wasoppressive, and the firearms pouring their iron bullets on thefugitives, was not an inapt representative of burning in the bottomlesspit. 

The terrible scenes of man's inhumanity to man brought on severeheadache, which might have been serious had it not been relieved by acopious discharge of blood; I was laid up all yesterday afternoon, withthe depression the bloodshed made, --it filled me with unspeakablehorror. "Don't go away, " say the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I cannotstay here in agony. 

_19th July, 1871. _--Dugumbé sent me a fine goat, a maneh of gunpowder, amaneh of fine blue beads, and 230 cowries, to buy provisions in the way. I proposed to leave a doti Merikano and one of Kaniké to buy specimensof workmanship. He sent me two very fine large Manyuema swords, and twoequally fine spears, and said that I must not leave anything; he wouldbuy others with his own goods, and divide them equally with me: he isvery friendly. 

River fallen 4-1/2 feet since the 5th ult. 

A few market people appear to-day, formerly they came in crowds: a veryfew from the west bank bring salt to buy back the baskets from the campslaves, which they threw away in panic, others carried a little food forsale, about 200 in all, chiefly those who have not lost relatives: onevery beautiful woman had a gunshot wound in her upper arm tied roundwith leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty; but they have greattenacity and hopefulness, an old established custom has great charms forthem, and the market will again be attended if no fresh outrage iscommitted. No canoes now come into the creek of death, but land above, at Ntambwé's village: this creek, at the bottom of the long gentle slopeon which the market was held, probably led to its selection. 

A young Manyuema man worked for one of Dugumbé's people preparing aspace to build on; when tired, he refused to commence to dig a pit, andwas struck on the loins with an axe, and soon died: he was drawn out ofthe way, and his relations came, wailed over him, and buried him: theyare too much awed to complain to Dugumbé!!

CHAPTER VI. 

 Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's. Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. Ill. Attacked in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. Ill. Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr. Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the Lusizé. No outlet. "Theoretical discovery" of the real outlet. Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there. Departure for Unyanyembé with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game. --Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness at reaching Unyatiyembé. 

_20th July, 1871. _--I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbé's people came tosay good bye, and convoy me a little way. I made a short march, forbeing long inactive it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as itis then difficult to get over the effects. 

_21st July, 1871. _--One of the slaves was sick, and the rest falselyreported him to be seriously ill, to give them time to negotiate forwomen with whom they had cohabited: Dugumbé saw through the fraud, andsaid "Leave him to me: if he lives, I will feed him; if he dies, wewill bury him: do not delay for any one, but travel in a compact body, as stragglers now are sure to be cut off. " He lost a woman of his party, who lagged behind, and seven others were killed besides, and the foresthid the murderers. I was only too anxious to get away quickly, and onthe 22nd started off at daylight, and went about six miles to thevillage of Mañkwara, where I spent the night when coming this way. Thechief Mokandira convoyed us hither: I promised him a cloth if I cameacross from Lomamé. He wonders much at the underground houses, and neverheard of them till I told him about them. Many of the gullies which wererunning fast when we came were now dry. Thunder began, and a few dropsof rain fell. 

_23rd-24th July, 1871. _--We crossed the River Kunda, of fifty yards, intwo canoes, and then ascended from the valley of denudation, in which itflows to the ridge Lobango. Crowds followed, all anxious to carry loadsfor a few beads. Several market people came to salute, who knew that wehad no hand in the massacre, as we are a different people from theArabs. In going and coming they must have a march of 25 miles with loadsso heavy no slave would carry them. They speak of us as "good:" theanthropologists think that to be spoken of as wicked is better. Ezekielsays that the Most High put His comeliness upon Jerusalem: if He doesnot impart of His goodness to me I shall never be good: if He does notput of His comeliness on me I shall never be comely in soul, but be likethese Arabs in whom Satan has full sway--the god of this world havingblinded their eyes. 

_25th July, 1871. _--We came over a beautiful country yesterday, a vasthollow of denudation, with much cultivation, intersected by a ridge some300 feet high, on which the villages are built: this is Lobango. Thepath runs along the top of the ridge, and we see the fine country belowall spread out with different shades of green, as on a map. The coloursshow the shapes of the different plantations in the great hollow drainedby the Kunda. After crossing the fast flowing Kahembai, which flows intothe Kunda, and it into Lualaba, we rose on to another intersectingridge, having a great many villages burned by Matereka or SalemMokadam's people, since we passed them in our course N. W. They hadslept on the ridge after we saw them, and next morning, in sheerwantonness, fired their lodgings, --their slaves had evidently carriedthe fire along from their lodgings, and set fire to houses of villagesin their route as a sort of horrid Moslem Nigger joke; it was done onlybecause they could do it without danger of punishment: it was such funto make the Mashensé, as they call all natives, houseless. Men are worsethan beasts of prey, if indeed it is lawful to call Zanzibar slaves men. It is monstrous injustice to compare free Africans living under theirown chiefs and laws, and cultivating their own free lands, with whatslaves afterwards become at Zanzibar and elsewhere. 

_26th July, 1871. _--Came up out of the last valley of denudation--thatdrained by Kahembai, and then along a level land with open forest. Fourmen passed us in hot haste to announce the death of a woman at theirvillage to her relations living at another. I heard of several deathslately of dysentery. Pleurisy is common from cold winds from N. W. Twenty-two men with large square black shields, capable of completelyhiding the whole person, came next in a trot to receive the body oftheir relative and all her gear to carry her to her own home for burial:about twenty women followed them, and the men waited under the treestill they should have wound the body up and wept over her. They smearedtheir bodies with clay, and their faces with soot. Reached our friendKama. 

_27th July, 1871. _--Left Kama's group of villages and went through manyothers before we reached Kasongo's, and were welcomed by all the Arabsof the camp at this place. Bought two milk goats reasonably, and restover Sunday. (_28th and 29th_). They asked permission to send a partywith me for goods to Ujiji; this will increase our numbers, and perhapssafety too, among the justly irritated people between this and Bambarré. All are enjoined to help me, and of course I must do the same to them. It is colder here than at Nyañgwé. Kasongo is off guiding an ivory orslaving party, and doing what business he can on his own account; he hasfour guns, and will be the first to maraud on his own account. 

_30th July, 1871. _--They send thirty tusks to Ujiji, and seventeenManyuema volunteers to carry thither and back: these are the very firstwho in modern times have ventured fifty miles from the place of theirbirth. I came only three miles to a ridge overlooking the River Shokoyé, and slept at village on a hill beyond it. 

_31st July, 1871. _--Passed through the defile between Mount Kimazi andMount Kijila. Below the cave with stalactite pillar in its door a fineecho answers those who feel inclined to shout to it. Come to Mangala'snumerous villages, and two slaves being ill, rest on Wednesday. 

_1st August, 1871. _--A large market assembles close to us. 

_2nd August, 1871. _--Left Mangala's, and came through a great manyvillages all deserted on our approach on account of the vengeance takenby Dugumbé's party for the murder of some of their people. Kasongo's menappeared eager to plunder their own countrymen: I had to scold andthreaten them, and set men to watch their deeds. Plantains are here veryabundant, good, and cheap. Came to Kittetté, and lodge in a village ofLoembo. About thirty foundries were passed; they are very high in theroof, and thatched with leaves, from which the sparks roll off as sandwould. Rain runs off equally well. 

_3rd August, 1871. _--Three slaves escaped, and not to abandon ivory wewait a day, Kasongo came up and filled their places. 

I have often observed effigies of men made of wood in Manyuema; some ofclay are simply cones with a small hole in the top; on asking about themhere, I for the first time obtained reliable information. They arecalled Bathata--fathers or ancients--and the name of each is carefullypreserved. Those here at Kittetté were evidently the names of chiefs, Molenda being the most ancient, whilst Mbayo Yamba, Kamoanga, Kitambwé, Noñgo, Aulumba, Yengé Yengé, Simba Mayañga, Loembwé, are more recentlydead. They were careful to have the exact pronunciation of the names. The old men told me that on certain occasions they offer goat's flesh tothem: men eat it, and allow no young person or women to partake. Theflesh of the parrot is only eaten by very old men. They say that ifeaten by young men their children will have the waddling gait of thebird. They say that originally those who preceded Molenda came fromKongolakokwa, which conveys no idea to my mind. It was interesting toget even this little bit of history here. (Nkoñgolo = Deity; Nkoñgolokwaas the Deity. )

_4th August, 1871. _--Came through miles of villages all burned becausethe people refused a certain Abdullah lodgings! The men had begun tore-thatch the huts, and kept out of our way, but a goat was speared bysome one in hiding, and we knew danger was near. Abdullah admitted thathe had no other reason for burning them than the unwillingness of thepeople to lodge him and his slaves without payment, with the certaintyof getting their food stolen and utensils destroyed. 

_5th and 6th August, 1871. _--Through many miles of palm-trees andplantains to a Boma or stockaded village, where we slept, though thepeople were evidently suspicious and unfriendly. 

_7th August, 1871. _--To a village, ill and almost every step in pain. The people all ran away, and appeared in the distance armed, and refusedto come near--then came and threw stones at us, and afterwards tried tokill those who went for water. We sleep uncomfortably, the nativeswatching us all round. Sent men to see if the way was clear. 

_8th August, 1871. _--They would come to no parley. They knew theiradvantage, and the wrongs they had suffered from Bin Juma and Mohamad'smen when they threw down the ivory in the forest. In passing along thenarrow path with a wall of dense vegetation touching each hand, we cameto a point where an ambush had been placed, and trees cut down toobstruct us while they speared us; but for some reason it was abandoned. Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth and peeringup towards the sun, a dark shade could sometimes be seen: this was aninfuriated savage, and a slight rustle in the dense vegetation meant aspear. A large spear from my right lunged past and almost grazed myback, and stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it cameappeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and bolted, onelooking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they are expert with thespear I don't know how it missed, except that he was too sure of his aimand the good hand of God was upon me. 

I was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass till I, theleader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib, or Kolokolo himself, came up to the point where they lay. A red jacket they had formerly seenme wearing was proof to them, that I was the same that sent Bin Juma tokill five of their men, capture eleven women and children, andtwenty-five goats. Another spear was thrown at me by an unseenassailant, and it missed me by about a foot in front. Guns were firedinto the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could beseen; but we heard the men jeering and denouncing us close by: two ofour party were slain. 

Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation I noticed agigantic tree, made still taller by growing on an ant-hill 20 feet high;it had fire applied near its roots, I heard a crack which told that thefire had done its work, but felt no alarm till I saw it come straighttowards me: I ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground oneyard behind me, and breaking into several lengths, it covered me with acloud of dust. Had the branches not previously been rotted off, I couldscarcely have escaped. 

Three times in one day was I delivered from impending death. 

My attendants, who were scattered in all directions, came running backto me, calling out, "Peace! peace! you will finish all your work inspite of these people, and in spite of everything. " Like them, I took itas an omen of good success to crown me yet, thanks to the "AlmightyPreserver of men. "

We had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by spearmen, who allfelt that if they killed me they would be revenging the death ofrelations. From each hole in the tangled mass we looked for a spear; andeach moment expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weaponshurled at us. I became weary with the constant strain of danger, and--as, I suppose, happens with soldiers on the field of battle--notcourageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I were killed or not. 

When at last we got out of the forest and crossed the Liya on to thecleared lands near the villages of Monan-bundwa, we lay down to rest, and soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking up in a stately manner unarmedto meet us. He had heard the vain firing of my men into the bush, andcame to ask what was the matter. I explained the mistake that Munangongahad made in supposing that I was Kolokolo, the deeds of whose men heknew, and then we went on to his village together. 

In the evening he sent to say that if I would give him all my people whohad guns, he would call his people together, burn off all the vegetationthey could fire, and punish our enemies, bringing me ten goats insteadof the three milch goats I had lost. I again explained that the attackwas made by a mistake in thinking I was Mohamad Bogharib, and that I hadno wish to kill men: to join in his old feud would only make mattersworse. This he could perfectly understand. 

I lost all my remaining calico, a telescope, umbrella, and five spears, by one of the slaves throwing down the load and taking up his own bundleof country cloth. 

_9th August, 1871. _--Went on towards Mamohela, now deserted by theArabs. Monanponda convoyed me a long way, and at one spot, with grassall trodden down, he said, "Here we killed a man of Moezia and ate hisbody. " The meat cut up had been seen by Dugumbé. 

_10th August, 1871. _--In connection with this affair the party that camethrough from Mamalulu found that a great fight had taken place atMuanampunda's, and they saw the meat cut up to be cooked with bananas. They did not like the strangers to look at their meat, but said, "Go on, and let our feast alone, " they did not want to be sneered at. The sameMuanampunda or Monambonda told me frankly that they ate the man ofMoezia: they seem to eat their foes to inspire courage, or in revenge. One point is very remarkable; it is not want that has led to the custom, for the country is full of food: nobody is starved of farinaceous food;they have maize, dura, pennisetum, cassava and sweet potatoes, and forfatty ingredients of diet, the palm-oil, ground-nuts, sessamum, and atree whose fruit yields a fine sweet oil: the saccharine materialsneeded are found in the sugar-cane, bananas, and plantains. 

Goats, sheep, fowls, dogs, pigs, abound in the villages, whilst theforest affords elephants, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, and in thestreams there are many varieties of fish. The nitrogenous ingredientsare abundant, and they have dainties in palm-toddy, and tobacco orBangé: the soil is so fruitful that mere scraping off the weeds is asgood as ploughing, so that the reason for cannibalism does not lie instarvation or in want of animal matter, as was said to be the case withthe New Zealanders. The only feasible reason I can discover is adepraved appetite, giving an extraordinary craving for meat which wecall "high. " They are said to bury a dead body for a couple of days inthe soil in a forest, and in that time, owing to the climate, it soonbecomes putrid enough for the strongest stomachs. 

The Lualaba has many oysters in it with very thick shells. They arecalled _Makessi_, and at certain seasons are dived for by the Bagenyawomen: pearls are said to be found in them, but boring to string themhas never been thought of. _Kanone_, Ibis religiosa. _Uruko_, Kuss nameof coffee. 

The Manyuema are so afraid of guns, that a man borrows one to settle anydispute or claim: he goes with it over his shoulder, and quicklyarranges the matter by the pressure it brings, though they all know thathe could not use it. 

_Gulu_, Deity above, or heaven. _Mamvu_, earth or below. _Gulu_ is aperson, and men, on death, go to him. _Nkoba, _ lightning. _Nkongolo_, Deity (?). _Kula_ or _Nkula_, salt spring west of Nyangwé. _Kalunda_, ditto. _Kiria_, rapid down river. _Kirila_, islet in sight of Nyangwé. _Magoya_, ditto. 

_Note_. --The chief Zurampela is about N. W. Of Nyangwé, and three daysoff. The Luivé River, of very red water, is crossed, and the largerMabila River receives it into its very dark water before Mabila entersLualaba. 

A ball of hair rolled in the stomach of a lion, as calculi are, is agreat charm among the Arabs: it scares away other animals, they say. 

Lion's fat smeared on the tails of oxen taken through a countryabounding in tsetse, or bungo, is a sure preventive; when I heard ofthis, I thought that lion's fat would be as difficult of collection asgnat's brains or mosquito tongues, but I was assured that many lionsare killed on the Basango highland, and they, in common with all beaststhere, are extremely fat: so it is not at all difficult to buy acalabash of the preventive, and Banyamwezi, desirous of taking cattle tothe coast for sale, know the substance, and use it successfully (?). 

_11th August, 1871. _--Came on by a long march of six hours across plainsof grass and watercourses, lined with beautiful trees, to Kassessa's, the chief of Mamohela, who has helped the Arabs to scourge several ofhis countrymen for old feuds: he gave them goats, and then guided themby night to the villages, where they got more goats and many captives, each to be redeemed with ten goats more. During the last foray, however, the people learned that every shot does not kill, and they came up tothe party with bows and arrows, and compelled the slaves to throw downtheir guns and powder-horns. They would have shown no mercy had Manyuemabeen thus in slave power; but this is a beginning of the end, which willexclude Arab traders from the country. I rested half a day, as I amstill ill. I do most devoutly thank the Lord for sparing my life threetimes in one day. The Lord is good, a stronghold in the day of trouble, and He knows them that trust in Him. 

[The brevity of the following notes is fully accounted for: Livingstonewas evidently suffering too severely to write more. ]

_12th August, 1871. _--Mamohela camp all burned off. We sleep at Mamohelavillage. 

_13th August, 1871. _--At a village on the bank of River Lolindi, I amsuffering greatly. A man brought a young, nearly full-fledged, kite froma nest on a tree: this is the first case of their breeding, that I amsure of, in this country: they are migratory into these intertropicallands from the south, probably. 

_14th August, 1871. _--Across many brisk burns to a village on the sideof a mountain range. First rains 12th and 14th, gentle; but near Luamo, it ran on the paths, and caused dew. 

_15th August, 1871. _--To Muanambonyo's. Golungo, a bush buck, withstripes across body, and two rows of spots along the sides (?)

_16th August, 1871. _--To Luamo River. Very ill with bowels. 

_17th August, 1871. _--Cross river, and sent a message to my friend. Katomba sent a bountiful supply of food back. 

_18th August, 1871. _--Reached Katomba, at Moenemgoi's, and was welcomedby all the heavily-laden Arab traders. They carry their trade spoil inthree relays. Kenyengeré attacked before I came, and 150 captives weretaken and about 100 slain; this is an old feud of Moenemgoi, which theArabs took up for their own gain. No news whatever from Ujiji, and M. Bogharib is still at Bambarré, with all my letters. 

_19th-20th August, 1871. _--Rest from weakness. (_21st August, 1871. _) Upto the palms on the west of Mount Kanyima Pass. (_22nd August, 1871. _)Bambarré. (_28th August, 1871. _) Better and thankful. Katomba's partyhas nearly a thousand frasilahs of ivory, and Mohamad's has 300frasilahs. 

_29th August, 1871. _--Ill all night, and remain. (_30th August, 1871. _)Ditto, ditto; but go on to Monandenda's on River Lombonda. 

_31st August, 1871. _--Up and half over the mountain range, (_1stSeptember, 1871_) and sleep in dense forest, with several fine runningstreams. 

_2nd September, 1871. _--Over the range, and down on to a marble-cappedhill, with a village on top. 

_3rd September, 1871. _--Equinoctial gales. On to Lohombo. 

_5th September, 1871. _--To Kasangangazi's. (_6th September, 1871. _)Rest. (_7th September, 1871. _) Mamba's. Rest on 8th. (_9th September, 1871. _) Ditto ditto. People falsely accused of stealing; but I disprovedit to the confusion of the Arabs, who wish to be able to say, "thepeople of the English steal too. " A very rough road from Kasangangazi'shither, and several running rivulets crossed. 

_10th September, 1871. _--Manyuema boy followed us, but I insisted on hisfather's consent, which was freely given: marching proved too hard forhim, however, and in a few days he left. 

Down into the valley of the Kapemba through beautiful undulatingcountry, and came to village of Amru: this is a common name, and is usedas "man, " or "comrade, " or "mate. "

_11th September, 1871. _--Up a very steep high mountain range, Moloni orMononi, and down to a village at the bottom on the other side, of a mancalled Molembu. 

_12th September, 1871. _--Two men sick. Wait, though I am nowcomparatively sound and well. Dura flour, which we can now procure, helps to strengthen me: it is nearest to wheaten flour; maize meal iscalled "cold, " and not so wholesome as the _Holeus sorghum_ or dura. Alengthy march through a level country, with high mountain ranges on eachhand; along that on the left our first path lay, and it was veryfatiguing. We came to the Rivulet Kalangai. I had hinted to Mohamad thatif he harboured my deserters, it might go hard with him; and he cameafter me for two marches, and begged me not to think that he didencourage them. They came impudently into the village, and I had todrive them out: I suspected that he had sent them. I explained, and hegave me a goat, which I sent back for. 

_13th September, 1871. _--This march back completely used up the Manyuemaboy: he could not speak, or tell what he wanted cooked, when he arrived. I did not see him go back, and felt sorry for the poor boy, who left usby night. People here would sell nothing, so I was glad of the goat. 

_14th September, 1871. _--To Pyanamosindé's. _(15th September, 1871. )_ ToKarungamagao's; very fine undulating green country. _(16th and 17thSeptember, 1871. )_ Rest, as we could get food to buy. 

_(18th September, 1871. )_ To a stockaded village, where the peopleordered us to leave. We complied, and went out half a mile and builtour sheds in the forest: I like sheds in the forest much better thanhuts in the villages, for we have no mice or vermin, and incur noobligation. 

_19th September, 1871. _--Found that Barua are destroying all theManyuema villages not stockaded. 

_20th September, 1871. _--We came to Kunda's on the River Katemba, through great plantations of cassava, and then to a woman chief's, andnow regularly built our own huts apart from the villages, near the hotfountain called Kabila which is about blood-heat, and flows across thepath. Crossing this we came to Mokwaniwa's, on the River Gombezé, andmet a caravan, under Nassur Masudi, of 200 guns. He presented a finesheep, and reported that Seyed Majid was dead--he had been ailing andfell from some part of his new house at Darsalam, and in three daysafterwards expired. He was a true and warm friend to me and did all hecould to aid me with his subjects, giving me two Sultan's letters forthe purpose. Seyed Burghash succeeds him; this change causes anxiety. Will Seyed Burghash's goodness endure now that he has the Sultanate?Small-pox raged lately at Ujiji. 

_22nd September, 1871. _--Caravan goes northwards, and we rest, and eatthe sheep kindly presented. 

_23rd September, 1871. _--We now passed through the country of mixedBarua and Baguha, crossed the River Loñgumba twice and then came nearthe great mountain mass on west of Tanganyika. From Mokwaniwa's toTanganyika is about ten good marches through open forest. The Guhapeople are not very friendly; they know strangers too well to showkindness: like Manyuema, they are also keen traders. I was sorelyknocked up by this march from Nyañgwé back to Ujiji. In the latter partof it, I felt as if dying on my feet. Almost every step was in pain, theappetite failed, and a little bit of meat caused violent diarrhoea, whilst the mind, sorely depressed, reacted on the body. All the traderswere returning successful: I alone had failed and experienced worry, thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of the end towards which Istrained. 

_3rd October, 1871. _--I read the whole Bible through four times whilst Iwas in Manyuema. 

_8th October, 1871. _--The road covered with angular fragments of quartzwas very sore to my feet, which are crammed into ill-made French shoes. How the bare feet of the men and women stood out, I don't know; it washard enough on mine though protected by the shoes. We marched in theafternoons where water at this season was scarce. The dust of the marchcaused ophthalmia, like that which afflicted Speke: this was my firsttouch of it in Africa. We now came to the Lobumba River, which flowsinto Tanganyika, and then to the village Loanda and sent to Kasanga, theGuha chief, for canoes. The Loñgumba rises, like the Lobumba, in themountains called Kabogo West. We heard great noises, as if thunder, asfar as twelve days off, which were ascribed to Kabogo, as if it hadsubterranean caves into which the waves rushed with great noise, and itmay be that the Loñgumba is the outlet of Tanganyika: it becomes theLuassé further down, and then the Luamo before it joins the Lualaba: thecountry slopes that way, but I was too ill to examine its source. 

_9th October, 1871. _--On to islet Kasengé. After much delay got a goodcanoe for three dotis, and on _15th October, 1871_ went to the isletKabiziwa. 

_18th October, 1871. _--Start for Kabogo East, and _19th_ reach it 8 A. M. 

_20th October, 1871. _--Rest men. 

_22nd October, 1871. _--To Rombola. 

_23rd October, 1871. _--At dawn, off and go to Ujiji. Welcomed by all theArabs, particularly by Moenyegheré. I was now reduced to a skeleton, but the market being held daily, and all kinds of native food brought toit, I hoped that food and rest would soon restore me, but in the eveningmy people came and told me that Shereef had sold off all my goods, andMoenyegheré confirmed it by saying, "We protested, but he did not leavea single yard of calico out of 3000, nor a string of beads out of 700lbs. " This was distressing. I had made up my mind, if I could not getpeople at Ujiji, to wait till men should come from the coast, but towait in beggary was what I never contemplated, and I now felt miserable. Shereef was evidently a moral idiot, for he came without shame to shakehands with me, and when I refused, assumed an air of displeasure, ashaving been badly treated; and afterwards came with his "Balghere, "good-luck salutation, twice a day, and on leaving said, "I am going topray, " till I told him that were I an Arab, his hand and both ears wouldbe cut off for thieving, as he knew, and I wanted no salutations fromhim. In my distress it was annoying to see Shereef's slaves passing fromthe market with all the good things that my goods had bought. 

_24th October, 1871. _--My property had been sold to Shereef's friends atmerely nominal prices. Syed bin Majid, a good man, proposed that theyshould be returned, and the ivory be taken from Shereef; but they wouldnot restore stolen property, though they knew it to be stolen. Christians would have acted differently, even those of the lowestclasses. I felt in my destitution as if I were the man who went downfrom Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves; but I could not hopefor Priest, Levite, or good Samaritan to come by on either side, but onemorning Syed bin Majid said to me, "Now this is the first time we havebeen alone together; I have no goods, but I have ivory; let me, I prayyou, sell some ivory, and give the goods to you. " This was encouraging;but I said, "Not yet, but by-and-bye. " I had still a few barter goodsleft, which I had taken the precaution to deposit with Mohamad bin Salehbefore going to Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. But whenmy spirits were at their lowest ebb, the good Samaritan was close athand, for one morning Susi came running at the top of his speed andgasped out, "An Englishman! I see him!" and off he darted to meet him. The American flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality ofthe stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge kettles, cooking pots, tents, &c, made me think "This must be a luxurious traveller, and notone at his wits' end like me. " _(28th October, 1871. )_ It was HenryMoreland Stanley, the travelling correspondent of the _New York Herald, _sent by James Gordon Bennett, junior, at an expense of more than4000_l. _, to obtain accurate information about Dr. Livingstone ifliving, and if dead to bring home my bones. The news he had to tell toone who had been two full years without any tidings from Europe made mywhole frame thrill. The terrible fate that had befallen France, thetelegraphic cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election ofGeneral Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon--my constant friend, theproof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me in voting1000_l_. For supplies, and many other points of interest, revivedemotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema. Appetite returned, andinstead of the spare, tasteless, two meals a day, I ate four timesdaily, and in a week began to feel strong. I am not of a demonstrativeturn; as cold, indeed, as we islanders are usually reputed to be, butthis disinterested kindness of Mr. Bennett, so nobly carried into effectby Mr. Stanley, was simply overwhelming. I really do feel extremelygrateful, and at the same time I am a little ashamed at not being moreworthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley has done his part with untiringenergy; good judgment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. Hishelpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who, by their excesses atZanzibar and elsewhere, had ruined their constitutions, and preparedtheir systems to be fit provender for the grave. They had used up theirstrength by wickedness, and were of next to no service, but ratherdowndrafts and unbearable drags to progress. 

_16th November, 1871. _--As Tanganyika explorations are said by Mr. Stanley to be an object of interest to Sir Roderick, we go at hisexpense and by his men to the north of the Lake. 

[Dr. Livingstone on a previous occasion wrote from the interior ofAfrica to the effect that Lake Tanganyika poured its waters into theAlbert Nyanza Lake of Baker. At the time perhaps he hardly realized theinterest that such an announcement was likely to occasion. He was nowshown the importance of ascertaining by actual observation whether thejunction really existed, and for this purpose he started with Mr. Stanley to explore the region of the supposed connecting link in theNorth, so as to verify the statements of the Arabs. ]

_16th November, 1871. _--Four hours to Chigoma. 

_20th and 21st November, 1871. _--Passed a very crowded population, themen calling to us to land to be fleeced and insulted by way of Mahongaor Mutuari: they threw stones in rage, and one, apparently slung, lighted close to the canoe. We came on until after dark, and landedunder a cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made inquiries, then a few more came as if to investigate more perfectly: they told usto sleep, and to-morrow friendship should be made. We put our luggage onboard and set a watch on the cliff. A number of men came along, coweringbehind rocks, which then aroused suspicion, and we slipped off quietly;they called after us, as men baulked of their prey. We went on fivehours and slept, and then this morning came on to Magala, where thepeople are civil, but Mukamba had war with some one. The Lake narrows toabout ten miles, as the western mountains come towards the easternrange, that being about N. N. W. Magnetic. Many stumps of trees killed bywater show an encroachment by the Lake on the east side. A transverserange seems to shut in the north end, but there is open country to theeast and west of its ends. 

_24th November, 1871. _--To Point Kizuka in Mukamba's country. AMolongwana came to us from Mukamba and asserted most positively that allthe water of Tanganyika flowed into the River Lusizé, and then on toUkerewé of Mtéza; nothing could be more clear than his statements. 

_25th November, 1871. _--We came on about two hours to some villages on ahigh bank where Mukamba is living. The chief, a young good-looking manlike Mugala, came and welcomed us. Our friend of yesterday now declaredas positively as before that the water of Lusizé flowed into Tanganyika, and not the way he said yesterday! I have not the smallest doubt butTanganyika discharges somewhere, though we may be unable to find it. Lusizé goes to or comes from Luanda and Karagwé. This is hopeful, but Isuspend my judgment. War rages between Mukamba and Wasmashanga orUasmasané, a chief between this and Lusizé: ten men were killed ofMukamba's people a few days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply theircalling night and day as far as we can see. Tanganyika closes in exceptat one point N. And by W. Of us. The highest point of the western range, about 7000 feet above the sea, is Sumburuza. We are to go to-morrow toLuhinga, elder brother of Mukamba, near Lusizé, and the chief follows usnext day. 

_26th November, 1871. _--Sunday. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. I gaveMukamba 9 dotis and 9 fundos. The end of Tanganyika seen clearly isrounded off about 4' broad from east to west. 

_27th November, 1871. _--Mr. Stanley is better. We started at sunsetwestwards, then northwards for seven hours, and at 4 A. M. ReachedLohinga, at the mouth of the Lusizé. 

_28th November, 1871. _--Shot an _Ibis religiosa. _ In the afternoonLuhinga, the superior of Mukambé, came and showed himself veryintelligent. He named eighteen rivers, four of which enter Tanganyika, and the rest Lusizé: all come into, none leave Tanganyika. [15] Lusizé issaid to rise in Kwangeregéré in the Kivo lagoon, between Mutumbé andLuanda. Nyabungu is chief of Mutumbé. Luhinga is the most intelligentand the frankest chief we have seen here. 

_29th November, 1871. _--We go to see the Lusizé Eiver in a canoe. Themouth is filled with large reedy sedgy islets: there are three branches, about twelve to fifteen yards broad, and one fathom deep, with a strongcurrent of 2' per hour: water discoloured. The outlet of the Lake isprobably by the Loñgumba River into Lualaba as the Luamo, but this asyet must be set down as a "theoretical discovery. "

_30th November, 1871. _--A large present of eggs, flour, and a sheep camefrom Mukamba. Mr. Stanley went round to a bay in the west, to which themountains come sheer down. 

_1st December, 1871, Friday. _--Latitude last night 3° 18' 3" S. I gavefifteen cloths to Lohinga, which pleased him highly. Kuansibura is thechief who lives near Kivo, the lagoon from which the Lusizé rises: theysay it flows under a rock. 

_2nd December, 1871. _--Ill from bilious attack. 

_3rd December, 1871. _--Better and thankful. Men went off to bringMukamba, whose wife brought us a handsome present of milk, beer, andcassava. She is a good-looking young woman, of light colour and fulllips, with two children of eight or ten years of age. We gave themcloths, and sheasked beads, so we made them a present of two fundos. Bylunars I was one day wrong to-day. 

_4th December, 1871. _--Very heavy rain from north all night. Baker'sLake cannot be as near as he puts it in his map, for it is unknown toLohingé. He thinks that he is a hundred years old, but he is reallyabout forty-five! Namataranga is the name of birds which float high inair in large flocks. 

_5th December, 1871. _--We go over to a point on our east. The bay isabout 12' broad: the mountains here are very beautiful. We visited thechief Mukamba, at his village five miles north of Lohinga's; he wantedus to remain a few days, but I declined. We saw two flocks of _Ibisreligiosa, _ numbering in all fifty birds, feeding like geese. 

_6th December, 1871. _--Remain at Luhinga's. 

_7th December, 1871. _--Start and go S. W. To Lohanga: passed the pointwhere Speke turned, then breakfasted at the marketplace. 

_8th December, 1871. _--Go on to Mukamba; near the boundary of Babembéand Bavira. We pulled six hours to a rocky islet, with two rocks coveredwith trees on its western side. The Babembé are said to be dangerous, onaccount of having been slaughtered by the Malongwana. The Lat. Of theseislands is 3° 41' S. 

_9th December, 1871. _--Leave New York Herald Islet and go S. To LubumbaCape. The people now are the Basansas along the coast. Some men herewere drunk and troublesome: we gave them a present and left them about4-1/2 in afternoon and went to an islet at the north end in about threehours, good pulling, and afterwards in eight hours to the eastern shore;this makes the Lake, say, 28 or 30 miles broad. We coasted along toMokungos and rested. 

_10th December, 1871. _--Kisessa is chief of all the islet Mozima. Hisson was maltreated at Ujiji and died in consequence; this stopped thedura trade, and we were not assaulted because not Malongwana. 

_11th December, 1871. _--Leave Mokungo at 6 A. M. And coast along 6-1/2hours to Sazzi. 

_12th December, 1871. _--Mr. Stanley ill with fever. Off, and after threehours, stop at Masambo village. 

_13th December, 1871. _--Mr. Stanley better. Go on to Ujiji. Mr. Stanleyreceived a letter from Consul Webb (American) of 11th June last, andtelegrams from Aden up to 29th April. 

_14th December, 1871. _--Many people off to fight Mirambo at Unyanyembé:their wives promenade and weave green leaves for victory. 

_15th December, 1871. _--At Ujiji. Getting ready to march east for mygoods. 

_16th December, 1871. _--Engage paddlers to Tongwé and a guide. 

_17th December, 1871. _--S. _18th. _--Writing. _19th-20th. _--Stillwriting despatches. Packed up the large tin box with Manyuema swords andspear heads, for transmission home by Mr. Stanley. Two chronometers and twowatches--anklets of Nzigé and of Manyuema. Leave with Mohamad bin Saleha box with books, shirts, paper, &c. ; also large and small beads, tea, coffee and sugar. 

_21st December, 1871. _--Heavy rains for planting now. 

_22nd December, 1871. _--Stanley ill of fever. 

_23rd December, 1871. _--Do. Very ill. Rainy and uncomfortable. 

_24th December, 1871. _--S. _25th. --Christmas_. I leave here one bag ofbeads in a skin, 2 bags of Sungo mazi 746 and 756 blue. Gardner's bag ofbeads, soap 2 bars in 3 boxes (wood). 1st, tea and matunda; 2nd, woodenbox, paper and shirts; 3rd, iron box, shoes, quinine, 1 bag of coffee, sextant stand, one long wooden box empty. These are left with Mohamadbin Saleh at Ujiji, Christmas Day, 1871. Two bags of beads are alreadyhere and table cloths. 

_26th December, 1871. _--Had but a sorry Christmas yesterday. 

_27th December, 1871. --Mem_. To send Moenyegheré some coffee and tellhis wishes to Masudi. 

_27th December, 1871. _--Left Ujiji 9 A. M. , and crossed goats, donkeys, and men over Luiché. Sleep at the Malagarasi. 

_29th December, 1871. _--Crossed over the broad bay of the Malagarasi toKagonga and sleep. 

_30th December, 1871. _--Pass Viga Point, red sandstone, and cross thebay of the River Lugufu and Nkala village, and transport the people andgoats: sleep. 

_31st December, 1871. _--Send for beans, as there are no provisions infront of this. Brown water of the Lugufu bent away north: the high windis S. W. And W. Having provisions we went round Munkalu Point. The wateris slightly discoloured for a mile south of it, but brown water is seenon the north side of bay bent north by a current. 

_1st January, 1872. _--May the Almighty help me to finish my work thisyear for Christ's sake! We slept in Mosehezi Bay. I was storm-stayed inKifwé Bay, which is very beautiful--still as a millpond. We found 12 or13 hippopotami near a high bank, but did not kill any, for our balls arenot hardened. It is high rocky tree-covered shore, with rocks bent andtwisted wonderfully; large slices are worn off the land with hillsidesclad with robes of living green, yet very, very steep. 

_2nd January, 1872. _--A very broad Belt of large tussocks of reeds linesthe shore near Mount Kibanga or Boumba. We had to coast along to thesouth. Saw a village nearly afloat, the people having there taken refugefrom their enemies. There are many hippopotami and crocodiles inTanganyika. A river 30 yards wide, the Kibanga, flows in strongly. Weencamped on an open space on a knoll and put up flags to guide our landparty to us. 

_3rd January, 1872. _--We send off to buy food. Mr. Stanley shot a fatzebra, its meat was very good. 

_4th January, 1872. _--The Ujijians left last night with their canoes. Igave them 14 fundos of beads to buy food on the way. We are now waitingfor our land party. I gave headmen here at Burimba 2 dotis and aKitamba. Men arrived yesterday or 4-1/2 days from the Lugufu. 

_5th January, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley is ill of fever. I am engaged incopying notes into my journal. All men and goats arrived safely. 

_6th January, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley better, and we prepare to go. 

_7th January, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley shot a buffalo at the end of our firstmarch up. East and across the hills. The River Luajeré is in front. Wespend the night at the carcase of the buffalo. 

_8th January, 1872. _--We crossed the river, which is 30 yards wide andrapid. It is now knee and waist deep. The country is rich and beautiful, hilly and tree-covered, reddish soil, and game abundant. 

_9th January, 1872. _--Rainy, but we went on E. And N. N. E. Through ashut-in valley to an opening full of all kinds of game. Buffalo cowshave calves now: one was wounded. Rain came down abundantly. 

_10th January, 1872. _--Across a very lovely green country of open forestall fresh, and like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful. Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much brown hæmatite on thelevels. Course E. A range of mountains appears about three miles off onour right. 

_11th January, 1872. _--Off through open forest for three hours east, then cook, and go on east another three hours, over very rough rocky, hilly country. River Mtambahu. 

_12th January, 1872. _--Off early, and pouring rain came down; as weadvance the country is undulating. We cross a rivulet 15 yards widegoing north, and at another of 3 yards came to a halt; all wet anduncomfortable. 

The people pick up many mushrooms and manendinga roots, like turnips. There are buffaloes near us in great numbers. 

_13th January, 1872. _--Fine morning. Went through an undulating hillycountry clothed with upland trees for three hours, then breakfast in anopen glade, with bottom of rocks of brown hæmatite, and a hole withrain-water in it. We are over 1000 feet higher than Tanganyika. Itbecame cloudy, and we finished our march in a pouring rain, at a rivuletthickly clad with aquatic trees on banks. Course E. S. E. 

_14th January, 1872. _--Another fine morning, but miserably wetafternoon. We went almost 4' E. S. E. , and crossed a strong rivulet 8 or10 yards wide: then on and up to a ridge and along the top of it, goingabout south. We had breakfast on the edge of the plateau, looking downinto a broad lovely valley. We now descended, and saw many reddishmonkeys, which made a loud outcry: there was much game, but scattered, and we got none. Miserably wet crossing another stream, then up a valleyto see a deserted Boma or fenced village. 

_15th January, 1872. _--Along a valley with high mountains on each hand, then up over that range on our left or south. At the top some lionsroared. We then went on on high land, and saw many hartebeests andzebra, but did not get one, though a buffalo was knocked over. Wecrossed a rivulet, and away over beautiful and undulating hills andvales, covered with many trees and jambros fruit. Sleep at a runningrill. 

_16th January, 1872. _--A very cold night after long-continued and heavyrain. Our camp was among brakens. Went E. And by S. Along the high land, then we saw a village down in a deep valley into which we descended. Then up another ridge in a valley and along to a village wellcultivated--up again 700 feet at least, and down to Meréra's village, hid in a mountainous nook, about 140 huts with doors on one side. Thevalleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the people being eagerlyengaged in weeding and hoeing to take advantage of the abundant rainswhich have drenched us every afternoon. 

_17th January, 1872. _--We remain at Meréra's to buy food for our menand ourselves. 

_18th January, 1872. _--March, but the Mirongosi wandered and led usround about instead of S. S. E. We came near some tree-covered hills, anda river Monya Mazi--Mtamba River in front. I have very sore feet frombad shoes. 

_19th January, 1872. _--Went about S. E. For four hours, and crossed theMbamba River and passed through open forest. There is a large rock inthe river, and hills thickly tree-covered, 2' East and West, down asteep descent and camp. Came down River Mpokwa over rough country withsore feet, to ruins of a village Basivira and sleep. _21st. _--Rest. _22nd. _--Rest. Mr. Stanley shot two zebras yesterday, and a she giraffeto-day, the meat of the giraffe was 1000 lbs. Weight, the two zebrasabout 800 lbs. 

_23rd January, 1872. _--Rest. Mr. Stanley has fever. _24th. _--Ditto. _25th_. --Stanley ill. _26th_. --Stanley better and off. 

_26th January, 1872. _--Through low hills N. E. And among bamboos to openforest--on in undulating bushy tract to a river with two rounded hillseast, one having three mushroom-shaped trees on it. 

_27th January, 1872. _--On across long land waves and the only bambooseast of Mpokwa Rill to breakfast. In going on a swarm of bees attacked adonkey Mr. Stanley bought for me, and instead of galloping off, as didthe other, the fool of a beast rolled down, and over and over. I did thesame, then ran, dashed into a bush like an ostrich pursued, then ranwhisking a bush round my head. They gave me a sore head and face, beforeI got rid of the angry insects: I never saw men attacked before: thedonkey was completely knocked up by the stings on head, face, and lips, and died in two days, in consequence. We slept in the stockade ofMisonghi. 

_28th January, 1872. _--We crossed the river and then away E. To near ahill. Crossed two rivers, broad and marshy, and deep with elephantsplunging. Rain almost daily, but less in amount now. Bombay says hisgreatest desire is to visit Speke's grave ere he dies: he has a squarehead with the top depressed in the centre. 

_29th January, 1872. _--We ascended a ridge, the edge of a flat basinwith ledges of dark brown sandstone, the brim of ponds in which weredeposited great masses of brown hæmatite, disintegrated into gravel, flat open forest with short grass. We crossed a rill of light-colouredwater three times and reached a village. After this in 1-1/2 hour wecame to Meréra's. 

_30th January, 1872. _--At Meréra's, the second of the name. Much rainand very heavy; food abundant. Baniayamwezi and Yukonongo people here. 

_31st January, 1872. _--Through scraggy bush, then open forest with shortgrass, over a broad rill and on good path to village Mwaro; chiefKamirambo. 

_1st February, 1872. _--We met a caravan of Syde bin Habib's peopleyesterday who reported that Mirambo has offered to repay all the goodshe has robbed the Arabs of, all the ivory, powder, blood, &c. , but hisoffer was rejected. The country all around is devastated, and Arab forceis at Simba's. Mr. Stanley's man Shaw is dead. There is very greatmortality by small-pox amongst the Arabs and at the coast. We went overflat upland forest, open and bushy, then down a deep descent and alongN. E. To a large tree at a deserted stockade. 

_2nd February, 1872. _--Away over ridges of cultivation and elephant'sfootsteps. Cultivators all swept away by Basavira. Very many elephantsfeed here. We lost our trail and sent men to seek it, then came to thecamp in the forest. Lunched at rill running into Ngombé Nullah. 

Ukamba is the name of the Tsetse fly here. 

_3rd February, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley has severe fever, with great pains inthe back and loins: an emetic helped him a little, but resin of jalapwould have cured him quickly. Rainy all day. 

_4th February, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley so ill that we carried him in a cotacross flat forest and land covered with short grass for three hours, about north-east, and at last found a path, which was a great help. Assoon as the men got under cover continued rains began. There is a campof Malongwana here. 

_5th February, 1872. _--Off at 6 A. M. Mr. Stanley a little better, butstill carried across same level forest; we pass water in pools, and onein hæmatite. Saw a black rhinoceros, and come near people. 

_6th February, 1872. _--Drizzly morning, but we went on, and in two hoursgot drenched with cold N. W. Rain: the paths full of water we splashedalong to our camp in a wood. Met a party of native traders going toMwara. 

_7th February, 1872. _--Along level plains, and clumps of forest, andhollows filled at present with water, about N. E. , to a large pool ofNgombé Nullah. Send off two men to Unyanyembé for letters and medicine. 

_8th February, 1872. _--Removed from the large pool of the nullah, aboutan hour north, to where game abounds. Saw giraffes and zebras on ourway. The nullah is covered with lotus-plants, and swarms withcrocodiles. 

_9th February, 1872. _--Remained for game, but we were unsuccessful. Aneland was shot by Mr. Stanley, but it was lost. Departed at 2 P. M. , andreached Manyara, a kind old chief. The country is flat, and covered withdetached masses of forest, with open glades and flats. 

_10th February, 1872. _--Leave Manyara and pass along the same park-likecountry, with but little water. The rain sinks into the sandy soil atonce, and the collection is seldom seen. After a hard tramp we came to apool by a sycamore-tree, 28 feet 9 inches in circumference, with broadfruit-laden branches. Ziwané. 

_11th February, 1872. _--Rain nearly all night. Scarcely a day haspassed without rain and thunder since we left Tanganyika Across a flatforest again, meeting a caravan for Ujiji. The grass is three feet high, and in seed. Reach Chikuru, a stockaded village, with dura plantationsaround it and pools of rain-water. 

_12th February, 1872. _--Rest. 

_13th February, 1872. _--Leave Chikuru, and wade across an open flat withmuch standing-water. They plant rice on the wet land round the villages. Our path lies through an open forest, where many trees are killed forthe sake of the bark, which is used as cloth, and for roofing and beds. Mr. Stanley has severe fever. 

_14th February, 1872. _--Across the same flat open forest, with scraggytrees and grass three feet long in tufts. Came to a Boma. N. E. Gunda. 

_15th February, 1872. _--Over the same kind of country, where the waterwas stagnant, to camp in the forest. 

_16th February, 1872. _--Camp near Kigando, in a rolling country withgranite knolls. 

_17th February, 1872. _--Over a country, chiefly level, with stagnantwater; rounded hills were seen. Cross a rain torrent and encamp in a newBoma, Magonda. 

_18th February, 1872. _--Go through low tree-covered hills of granite, with blocks of rock sticking out: much land cultivated, and manyvillages. The country now opens out and we come to the Tembé, [16] in themidst of many straggling villages. Unyanyembé. Thanks to the Almighty. 

FOOTNOTES:

[14] The reader will best judge of the success of the experiment bylooking at a specimen of the writing. An old sheet of the _Standard_newspaper, made into rough copy-books, sufficed for paper in theabsence of all other material, and by writing across the print nodoubt the notes were tolerably legible at the time. The colour of thedecoction used instead of ink has faded so much that if Dr. Livingstone's handwriting had not at all times been beautifully clearand distinct it would have been impossible to decipher this part ofhis diary. --Ed. 

[15] Thus the question of the Lusizé was settled at once: the previousnotion of its outflow to the north proved a myth. --ED. 

[16] Tembé, a flat-roofed Arab house. 

CHAPTER VII. 

 Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits. Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages. Mteza's people arrive. Ancient geography. Tabora. Description of the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population of Unyanyembé. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir S. Baker's policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours. Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries. Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married. 

By the arrival of the fast Ramadân on the 14th November, and a NauticalAlmanac, I discovered that I was on that date twenty-one days too fastin my reckoning. Mr. Stanley used some very strong arguments in favourof my going home, recruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, andthen returning to finish my task; but my judgment said, "All yourfriends will wish you to make a complete work of the exploration of thesources of the Nile before you retire. " My daughter Agnes says, "Much asI wish you to come home, I would rather that you finished your work toyour own satisfaction than return merely to gratify me. " Rightly andnobly said, my darling Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, "She is achip of the old block. " My blessing on her and all the rest. 

It is all but certain that four full-grown gushing fountains rise on thewatershed eight days south of Katanga, each of which at no greatdistance off becomes a large river; and two rivers thus formed flownorth to Egypt, the other two to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira orBartle Frere's River, flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb'sLualaba, the main line of drainage. Another, on the north side of thesources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through Lake Lincoln, otherwise named Chibungo and Lomamé, and that too into Webb's Lualaba. Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and theLunga (Lunga), Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafué; both flowing into InnerEthiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the Nilementioned to Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in Sais, in Egypt;but they are worth discovery, as in the last hundred of the sevenhundred miles of the watershed, from which nearly all the Nile springsdo unquestionably arise. 

I propose to go from Unyanyembé to Fipa; then round the south end ofTanganyika, Tambeté, or Mbeté; then across the Chambezé, and round southof Lake Bangweolo, and due west to the ancient fountains; leaving theunderground excavations till after visiting Katanga. This route willserve to certify that no other sources of the Nile can come from thesouth without being seen by me. No one will cut me out after thisexploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me toshow myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an honour to my children, and, perhaps, to my country and race. 

Our march extended from 26th December, 1871, till 18th February, 1872, or fifty-four days. This was over 300 miles, and thankful I am to reachUnyanyembé, and the Tembé Kwikuru. 

I find, also, that the two headmen selected by the notorious, but covertslave-trader, Ludha Damji, have been plundering my stores from the 20thOctober, 1870, to 18th February, 1872, or nearly sixteen months. One hasdied of small-pox, and the other not only plundered my stores, but hasbroken open the lock of Mr. Stanley's storeroom, and plundered hisgoods. He declared that all my goods were safe, but when the list wasreferred to, and the goods counted, and he was questioned as to theserious loss, he at last remembered a bale of seven pieces of merikano, and three kaniké--or 304 yards, that he evidently had hidden. Onquestioning him about the boxes brought, he was equally ignorant, but atlast said, "Oh! I remember a box of brandy where it went, and every oneknows as well as I. "

_18th February, 1872. _--This, and Mr. Stanley's goods being found in hispossession, make me resolve to have done with him. My losses by therobberies of the Banian employed slaves are more than made up by Mr. Stanley, who has given me twelve bales of calico; nine loads = fourteenand a half bags of beads; thirty-eight coils of brass wire; a tent;boat; bath; cooking pots; twelve copper sheets; air beds; trowsers;jackets, &c. Indeed, I am again quite set up, and as soon as he can sendmen, not slaves, from the coast I go to my work, with a fair prospect offinishing it. 

_19th February, 1872. _--Rest. Receive 38 coils of brass wire from Mr. Stanley, 14-1/2 bags of beads, 12 copper sheets, a strong canvas tent, boat-trowsers, nine loads of calico, a bath, cooking pots, a medicinechest, a good lot of tools, tacks, screw nails, copper nails, books, medicines, paper, tar, many cartridges, and some shot. 

_20th February, 1872. _--To my great joy I got four flannel shirt fromAgnes, and I was delighted to find that two pairs of fine English bootshad most considerately been sent by my friend Mr. Waller. Mr. Stanleyand I measured the calico and found that 733-3/4 yards were wanting, also two frasilahs of samsam, and one case of brandy. Othman pretendedsickness, and blamed the dead men, but produced a bale of calico hiddenin Thani's goods; this reduced the missing quantity to 436-1/2 yards. 

_21st February, 1872. _--Heavy rains. I am glad we are in shelter. Masudiis an Arab, near to Ali bin Salem at Bagamoio. Bushir is an Arab, forwhose slave he took a bale of calico. Masudi took this Chirongozi, whois not a slave, as a pagazi or porter. Robbed by Bushir at the 5th campfrom Bagamoio. Othman confessed that he knew of the sale of the box ofbrandy, and brought also a shawl which he had forgotten: I searched him, and found Mr. Stanley's stores which he had stolen. 

_22nd February, 1872. _--Service this morning, and thanked God for safetythus far. Got a packet of letters from an Arab. 

_23rd February, 1872. _--Send to Governor for a box which he has kept forfour years: it is all eaten by white ants: two fine guns and a pistolare quite destroyed, all the wood-work being eaten. The brandy bottleswere broken to make it appear as if by an accident, but the corks beingdriven in, and corks of maize cobs used in their place, show that athief has drunk the brandy and then broken the bottles. The tea wasspoiled, but the china was safe, and the cheese good. 

_24th February, 1872. _--Writing a despatch to Lord Granville againstBanian slaving, and in favour of an English native settlement transfer. 

_25th February, 1872. _--A number of Batusi women came to-day asking forpresents. They are tall and graceful in form, with well-shaped smallheads, noses, and mouths. They are the chief owners of cattle here. Thewar with Mirambo is still going on. The Governor is ashamed to visit me. 

_26th February, 1872. _--Writing journal and despatch. 

_27th February, 1872. _--Moene-mokaia is ill of heart disease and liverabscess. I sent him some blistering fluid. To-day we hold a Christmasfeast. 

_28th February, 1872. _--Writing journal. Syde bin Salem called; he is aChina-looking man, and tried to be civil to us. 

_5th March, 1872. _--My friend Moene-mokaia came yesterday; he is veryill of abscess in liver, which has burst internally. I gave him somecalomel and jalap to open his bowels. He is very weak; his legs areswollen, but body emaciated. 

_6th March, 1872. _--Repairing tent, and receiving sundry stores, Moenem-okaia died. 

_7th March, 1872. _--Received a machine for filling cartridges. 

_8th and 9th March, 1872. _--Writing. 

_10th March, 1872. _--Writing. Gave Mr. Stanley a cheque for 5000 rupeeson Stewart and Co. , Bombay. This 500_l. _ is to be drawn if Dr. Kirk hasexpended the rest of the 1000_l. _ If not, then the cheque is to bedestroyed by Mr. Stanley. 

_12th March, 1872. _--Writing. 

_13th March, 1872. _--Finished my letter to Mr. Bennett of the _New YorkHerald_, and Despatch No. 3 to Lord Granville. 

_14th March, 1872. _--Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to his care my journalsealed with five seals: the impressions on them are those of an Americangold coin, anna, and half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms. Positively not to be opened. 

[We must leave each heart to know its own bitterness, as the oldexplorer retraces his steps to the Tembé at Kwihara, there to hope andpray that good fortune may attend his companion of the last few monthson his journey to the coast; whilst Stanley, duly impressed with theimportance of that which he can reveal to the outer world, and ladenwith a responsibility which by this time can be fully comprehended, thrusts on through every difficulty. 

There is nothing for it now but to give Mr. Stanley time to get toZanzibar, and to shorten by any means at hand the anxious period whichmust elapse before evidence can arrive that he has carried out thecommission entrusted to him. 

As we shall see, Livingstone was not without some material to afford himoccupation. Distances were calculated from native report; preparationswere pushed on for the coming journey to Lake Bangweolo; apparatus wasset in order. Travellers from all quarters dropped in from time to time:each contributed something about his own land; whilst waifs and straysof news from the expedition sent by the Arabs against Mirambo kept thesettlement alive. To return to his Diary. 

How much seems to lie in their separating, when we remember that withthe last shake of the hand, and the last adieu, came the final partingbetween Livingstone and all that could represent the interest felt bythe world in his travels, or the sympathy of the white man!]

_15th March, 1872. _--Writing to send after Mr. Stanley by two of hismen, who wait here for the purpose. Copied line of route, observationsfrom Kabuiré to Casembe's, the second visit, and on to Lake Bangweolo;then the experiment of weight on watch-key at Nyañgwé and Lusizé. 

_16th March, 1872. _--Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, and two of mine tobring his last words, if any. 

[Sunday was kept in the quiet of the Tembé, on the 17th March. Two daysafter, and his birthday again comes round--that day which seems alwaysto have carried with it such a special solemnity. He has yet time tolook back on his marvellous deliverances, and the venture he is about tolaunch forth upon. ]

_19th March, 1872. _--Birthday. My Jesus, my king, my life, my all; Iagain dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, GraciousFather, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' nameI ask it. Amen, so let it be. 

DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

[Many of his astronomical observations were copied out at this time, andminute records taken of the rainfall. Books saved up against a rainy daywere read in the middle of the "Masika" and its heavy showers. ]

_21st March, 1872. _--Read Baker's book. It is artistic and clever. He does good service in exploring the Nile slave-trade; I hope he may besuccessful in suppressing it. 

The Batusi are the cattle herds of all this Unyanyembé region. They arevery polite in address. The women have small compact, well-shaped headsand pretty faces; colour, brown; very pleasant to speak to; well-shapedfigures, with small hands and feet; the last with high insteps, andspringy altogether. Plants and grass are collected every day, and a firewith much smoke made to fumigate the cattle and keep off flies: thecattle like it, and the valleys are filled with smoke in the evening inconsequence. The Baganda are slaves in comparison; black, with a tingeof copper-colour sometimes; bridgeless noses, large nostrils and lips, but well-made limbs and feet. 

[We see that the thread by which he still draws back a lingering word ortwo from Stanley has not parted yet. ]

_25th March, 1872. _--Susi brought a letter back from Mr. Stanley. He hada little fever, but I hope he will go on safely. 

_26th March, 1872. _--Rain of Masika chiefly by night. The Masika of 1871began on 23rd of March, and ended 30th of April. 

_27th March, 1872. _--Reading. Very heavy rains. 

_28th March, 1872. _--Moenyembegu asked for the loan of a "doti. " He isstarving, and so is the war-party at M'Futu; chaining their slavestogether to keep them from running away to get food anywhere. 

_29th, 30th, 31st March, 1872. _--Very rainy weather. Am reading 'MungoPark's Travels;' they look so truthful. 

_1st April, 1872. _--Read Young's 'Search after Livingstone;' thankfulfor many kind words about me. He writes like a gentleman. 

_2nd April, 1872. _--Making a sounding-line out of lint left by Mr. Stanley. Whydah birds are now building their nests. The cock-bird bringsfine grass seed-stalks off the top of my Tembé. He takes the end insidethe nest and pulls it all in, save the ear. The hen keeps inside, constantly arranging the grass with all her might, sometimes making thewhole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid in after the grass. 

_4th April, 1872. _--We hear that Dugumbé's men have come to Ujiji withfifty tusks. He went down Lualaba with three canoes a long way andbought much ivory. They were not molested by Monangungo as we were. 

My men whom I had sent to look for a book left by accident in a hut somedays' journey off came back stopped by a flood in their track. Copyingobservations for Sir T. Maclear. 

_8th April, 1872. _--An Arab called Seyed bin Mohamad Magibbé called. Heproposes to go west to the country west of Katanga (Urangé). 

[It is very interesting to find that the results of the visit paid bySpeke and Grant to Mtéza, King of Uganda, have already become wellmarked. As we see, Livingstone was at Unyanyembé when a large tradingparty dropped in on their way back to the king, who, it will beremembered, lives on the north-western shores of the Victoria Nyassa. ]

_9th April, 1872. _--About 150 Waganga of Mtéza carried a present toSeyed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, consisting of ivory and a youngelephant. [17] He spent all the ivory in buying return presents ofgunpowder, guns, soap, brandy, gin, &c. , and they have stowed it all inthis Tembé. This morning they have taken everything out to see ifanything is spoilt. They have hundreds of packages. 

One of the Baganda told me yesterday that the name of the Deity isDubalé in his tongue. 

_15th April, 1872. _--Hung up the sounding-line on poles 1 fathom apartand tarred it. 375 fathoms of 5 strands. 

Ptolemy's geography of Central Africa seems to say that the science wasthen (second century A. D. ) in a state of decadence from what was knownto the ancient Egyptian priests as revealed to Herodotus 600 yearsbefore his day (or say B. C. 440). They seem to have been well aware bythe accounts of travellers or traders that a great number of springscontributed to the origin of the Nile, but none could be pointed atdistinctly as the "Fountains, " except those I long to discover, orrather rediscover. Ptolemy seems to have gathered up the threads ofancient explorations, and made many springs (six) flow into two Lakessituated East and West of each other--the space above them beingunknown. If the Victoria Lake were large, then it and the Albert wouldprobably be the Lakes which Ptolemy meant, and it would be pleasant tocall them Ptolemy's sources, rediscovered by the toil and enterprise ofour countrymen Speke, Grant, and Baker--but unfortunately Ptolemy hasinserted the small Lake "Coloe, " nearly where the Victoria Lake stands, and one cannot say where his two Lakes are. Of Lakes Victoria, Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo--Lake Lincoln and Lake Albert, which two didhe mean? The science in his time was in a state of decadence. Were twoLakes not the relics of a greater number previously known? What says themost ancient map known of Sethos II. 's time?

_16th April, 1872. _--Went over to visit Sultan bin Ali nearTabora--country open, plains sloping very gently down from low roundedgranite hills covered with trees. Rounded masses of the light greygranite crop out all over them, but many are hidden by the trees: Taboraslopes down from some of the same hills that overlook Kwihara, where Ilive. At the bottom of the slope swampy land lies, and during the Masikait is flooded and runs westwards. The sloping plain on the North of thecentral drain is called Kazé--that on the South is Tabora, andthis is often applied to the whole space between the hills north andsouth. Sultan bin Ali is very hospitable. He is of the Bedawee Arabs, and a famous marksman with his long Arab gun or matchlock. He oftenkilled hares with it, always hitting them in the head. He is aboutsixty-five years of age, black eyed, six feet high and inclined tostoutness, and his long beard is nearly all grey. He provided twobountiful meals for self and attendants. 

Called on Mohamad bin Nassur--recovering from sickness. He presented agoat and a large quantity of guavas. He gave the news that came fromDugumbé's underling Nseréré, and men now at Ujiji; they went S. W. Tocountry called Nombé, it is near Rua, and where copper is smelted. AfterI left them on account of the massacre at Nyañgwé, they bought muchivory, but acting in the usual Arab way, plundering and killing, theyaroused the Bakuss' ire, and as they are very numerous, about 200 werekilled, and none of Dugumbé's party. They brought fifty tusks to Ujiji. We dare not pronounce positively on any event in life, but this lookslike prompt retribution on the perpetrators of the horrible andsenseless massacre of Nyañgwé. It was not vengeance by the relations ofthe murdered ones we saw shot and sunk in the Lualaba, for there is nocommunication between the people of Nyañgwé and the Bakuss or people ofNombé of Lomamé--that massacre turned my heart completely againstDugumbé's people. To go with them to Lomamé as my slaves were willing todo, was so repugnant I preferred to return that weary 400 or 600 milesto Ujiji. I mourned over my being baffled and thwarted all the way, buttried to believe that it was all for the best--this news shows that hadI gone with these people to Lomamé, I could not have escaped the Bakussspears, for I could not have run like the routed fugitives. I wasprevented from going in order to save me from death. Many escapes fromdanger I am aware of: some make me shudder, as I think how near todeath's door I came. But how many more instances of Providentialprotecting there may be of which I know nothing! But I thank mostsincerely the good Lord of all for His goodness to me. 

_18th April, 1872. _--I pray the good Lord of all to favour me so as toallow me to discover the ancient fountains of Herodotus, and if thereis anything in the underground excavations to confirm the precious olddocuments (τἁ βιβλἱα), the Scriptures of truth, may He permitme to bring it to light, and give me wisdom to make a proper use of it. 

Some seem to feel that their own importance in the community is enhancedby an imaginary connection with a discovery or discoverer of the Nilesources, and are only too happy to figure, if only in a minor part, astheoretical discoverers--a theoretical discovery being a contradictionin terms. 

The cross has been used--not as a Christian emblem certainly, but fromtime immemorial as the form in which the copper ingot of Katañga ismoulded--this is met with quite commonly, and is called HandipléMahandi. Our capital letter I (called Vigera) is the large form of thebars of copper, each about 60 or 70 lbs. Weight, seen all over CentralAfrica and from Katañga. 

_19th April, 1872. _--A roll of letters and newspapers, apparently, cameto-day for Mr. Stanley. The messenger says he passed Mr. Stanley on theway, who said, "Take this to the Doctor;" this is erroneous. The Princeof Wales is reported to be dying of typhoid fever: the Princess Louisehas hastened to his bedside. 

_20th April, 1872. _--Opened it on 20th, and found nine 'New YorkHeralds' of December 1-9, 1871, and one letter for Mr. Stanley, which. Ishall forward, and one stick of tobacco. 

_21st April, 1872. _--Tarred the tent presented by Mr. Stanley. 

_23rd April, 1872. _--Visited Kwikuru, and saw the chief of all theBanyamwezi (around whose Boma it is), about sixty years old, andpartially paralytic. He told me that he had gone as far as Katañga bythe same Fipa route I now propose to take, when a little boy followinghis father, who was a great trader. 

The name Banyamwezi arose from an ivory ornament of the shape of the newmoon hung to the neck, with a horn reaching round over either shoulder. They believe that they came from the sea-coast, Mombas (?) of old, andwhen people inquired for them they said, "We mean the men of the moonornament. " It is very popular even now, and a large amount of ivory iscut down in its manufacture; some are made of the curved tusks ofhippopotami. The Banyamwezi have turned out good porters, and they domost of the carrying work of the trade to and from the East Coast; theyare strong and trustworthy. One I saw carried six frasilahs, or 200lbs. , of ivory from Unyanyembé to the sea-coast. 

The prefix "_Nya_" in Nyamwezi seems to mean place or locality, as Myadoes on the Zambesi. If the name referred to the "moon ornament, " as thepeople believe, the name would be Ba or Wamwezi, but Banyamwezi meansprobably the Ba--they or people--Nya, place--Mwezi, moon, people of themoon locality or moon-land. 

_Unyanyembé_, place of hoes. 

Unyambéwa. 

Unyangoma, place of drums. 

Nyangurué, place of pigs. 

Nyangkondo. 

Nyarukwé. 

It must be a sore affliction to be bereft of one's reason, and the moreso if the insanity takes the form of uttering thoughts which in a soundstate we drive from us as impure. 

_25th and 26th April, 1872. _--A touch of fever from exposure. 

_27th April, 1872. _--Better, and thankful. Zahor died of small-pox here, after collecting much ivory at Fipa and Urungu. It is all taken up byLewalé. [18]

The rains seem nearly over, and are succeeded by very cold easterlywinds; these cause fever by checking the perspiration, and are wellknown as eminently febrile. The Arabs put the cause of the fever to therains drying up. In my experience it is most unhealthy during the rainsif one gets wet; the chill is brought on, the bowels cease to act, andfever sets in. Now it is the cold wind that operates, and possibly thisis intensified by the malaria of the drying-up surface. A chill frombathing on the 25th in cold water gave me a slight attack. 

_1st May, 1872. _--Unyanyembé: bought a cow for 11 dotis of merikano (and2 kaniké for calf), she gives milk, and this makes me independent. 

Headman of the Baganda from whom I bought it said, "I go off to pray. "He has been taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they havegained. Baker thinks that the first want of Africans is to teach them to_want_. Interesting, seeing he was bored almost to death by Kamrasiwanting everything he had. 

Bought three more cows and calves for milk, they give good quantityenough for me and mine, and are small shorthorns: one has a hump--twoblack with white spots and one white--one black with white face: theBaganda were well pleased with the prices given, and so am I. Finished aletter for the _New York Herald, _ trying to enlist American zeal to stopthe East Coast slave-trade: I pray for a blessing on it from theAll-Gracious. [Through a coincidence a singular interest attaches tothis entry. The concluding words of the letter he refers to are asfollows:--]

"All I can add in my loneliness is, may Heaven's rich blessing come downon everyone, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal the opensore of the world. "

[It was felt that nothing could more palpably represent the man, andthis quotation has consequently been inscribed upon the tablet erectedto his memory near his grave in Westminster Abbey. It was noticed sometime after selecting it that Livingstone wrote these words exactly oneyear before his death, which, as we shall see, took place on the 1stMay, 1873. ]

_3rd May, 1872. _--The entire population of Unyanyembé called Arab iseighty males, many of these are country born, and are known by thepaucity of beard and bridgeless noses, as compared with men from Muscat;the Muscatees are more honourable than the mainlanders, and morebrave--altogether better looking and better everyway. 

If we say that the eighty so-called Arabs here have twenty dependantseach, 1500 or 1600 is the outside population of Unyanyembé in connectionwith the Arabs. It is called an ivory station, that means simply thatelephant's tusks are the chief articles of trade. But little ivory comesto market, every Arab who is able sends bands of his people to differentparts to trade: the land being free they cultivate patches of maize, dura, rice, beans, &c. , and after one or two seasons, return with whativory they may have secured. Ujiji is the only mart in the country, andit is chiefly for oil, grain, goats, salt, fish, beef, native produce ofall sorts, and is held daily. A few tusks are sometimes brought, but itcan scarcely be called an ivory mart for that. It is an institutionbegun and carried on by the natives in spite of great drawbacks fromunjust Arabs. It resembles the markets of Manyuema, but is attendedevery day by about 300 people. No dura has been brought lately to Ujiji, because a Belooch man found the son of the chief of Mbwara Islandpeeping in at his women, and beat the young man, so that on returninghome he died. The Mbwara people always brought much grain before that, but since that affair never come. 

The Arabs send a few freemen as heads of a party of slaves to trade. These select a friendly chief, and spend at least half these goodsbrought in presents on him, and in buying the best food the countryaffords for themselves. It happens frequently that the party comes backnearly empty handed, but it is the Banians that lose, and the Arabs arenot much displeased. This point is not again occupied if it has been adead loss. 

_4th May, 1872. _--Many palavers about Mirambu's death having taken placeand being concealed. Arabs say that he is a brave man, and the war isnot near its end. Some northern natives called Bagoyé get a keg ofpowder and a piece of cloth, go and attack a village, then wait a monthor so eating the food of the captured place, and come back for storesagain: thus the war goes on. Prepared tracing paper to draw a map forSir Thomas Maclear. Lewalé invites me to a feast. 

_7th May, 1872. _--New moon last night. Went to breakfast with Lewalé. Hesays that the Mirambo war is virtually against himself as a Seyed Majidman. They wish to have him removed, and this would be a benefit. 

The Banyamwezi told the Arabs that they did not want them to go tofight, because when one Arab was killed all the rest ran away and thearmy got frightened. 

"Give us your slaves only and we will fight, " say they. 

A Magohé man gave charms, and they pressed Mirambo sorely. His brothersent four tusks as a peace-offering, and it is thought that the end isnear. His mother was plundered, and lost all her cattle. 

_9th May, 1872. _--No fight, though it was threatened yesterday: they alllike to talk a great deal before striking a blow. They believe that inthe multitude of counsellors there is safety. Women singing as theypound their grain into meal, --"Oh, the march of Bwanamokolu to Katañga!Oh, the march to Katañga and back to Ujiji!--Oh, oh, oh!" Bwanamokolumeans the great or old gentleman. Batusi women are very keen traders, and very polite and pleasing in their address and pretty way ofspeaking. 

I don't know how the great loving Father will bring all out right atlast, but He knows and will do it. 

The African's idea seems to be that they are within the power of a powersuperior to themselves--apart from and invisible: good; but frequentlyevil and dangerous. This may have been the earliest religious feeling ofdependence on a Divine power without any conscious feeling of itsnature. Idols may have come in to give a definite idea of superiorpower, and the primitive faith or impression obtained by Revelationseems to have mingled with their idolatry without any sense ofincongruity. (See Micah in Judges. )[19]

The origin of the primitive faith in Africans and others, seems alwaysto have been a divine influence on their dark minds, which has provedpersistent in all ages. One portion of primitive belief--the continuedexistence of departed spirits--seems to have no connection whatever withdreams, or, as we should say, with "ghost seeing, " for great agony isfelt in prospect of bodily mutilation or burning of the body afterdeath, as that is believed to render return to one's native landimpossible. They feel as if it would shut them off from all intercoursewith relatives after death. They would lose the power of doing good tothose onceloved, and evil to those who deserved their revenge. Take thecase of the slaves in the yoke, singing songs of hate and revengeagainst those who sold them into slavery. They thought it right so toharbour hatred, though most of the party had been sold forcrimes--adultery, stealing, &c. --which they knew to be sins. 

If Baker's expedition should succeed in annexing the valley of the Nileto Egypt, the question arises, --Would not the miserable condition of thenatives, when subjected to all the atrocities of the White Nileslave-traders, be worse under Egyptian dominion? The villages would befarmed out to tax-collectors, the women, children and boys carried offinto slavery, and the free thought and feeling of the population placedunder the dead weight of Islam. Bad as the situation now is, if Bakerleaves it matters will grow worse. It is probable that actual experiencewill correct the fancies he now puts forth as to the proper mode ofdealing with Africans. 

_10th May, 1872. _--Hamees Wodin Tagh, my friend, is reported slain bythe Makoa of a large village he went to fight. Other influential Arabsare killed, but full information has not yet arrived. He was in youth aslave, but by energy and good conduct in trading with the Masai and farsouth of Nyassa, and elsewhere, he rose to freedom and wealth. He hadgood taste in all his domestic arrangements, and seemed to be a goodman. He showed great kindness to me on my arrival at Chitimbwa's. 

_11th May, 1872. _--A serpent of dark olive colour was found dead at mydoor this morning, probably killed by a cat. Puss approaches verycautiously, and strikes her claws into the head with a blow delivered asquick as lightning; then holds the head down with both paws, heedless ofthe wriggling mass of coils behind it; she then bites the neck andleaves it, looking with interest to the disfigured head, as if she knewthat therein had lain the hidden power of mischief. She seems topossess a little of the nature of the _Ichneumon_, which was sacred inEgypt from its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of micewhen killed by puss. 

_12th May, 1872. _--Singeri, the headman of the Baganda here, offered mea cow and calf yesterday, but I declined, as we were strangers both, andthis is too much for me to take. I said that I would take ten cows atMtésa's if he offered them. I gave him a little medicine (arnica) forhis wife, whose face was burned by smoking over gunpowder. Again hepressed the cow and calf in vain. 

The reported death of Hamees Wodin Tagh is contradicted. It was socircumstantial that I gave it credit, though the false reports in thisland are one of its most marked characteristics. They are "enough tospear a sow. "

_13th May, 1872. _--He will keep His word--the gracious One, full ofgrace and truth--no doubt of it. He said, "Him that cometh unto me, Iwill in nowise cast out, " and "Whatsoever ye shall ask in my name Iwill give it. " He WILL keep His word: then I can come and humblypresent my petition, and it will be all right. Doubt is hereinadmissible, surely. --D. L. 

Ajala's people, sent to buy ivory in Uganda, were coming back with someten tusks and were attacked at Ugalla by robbers, and one free manslain: the rest threw everything down and fled. They came here withtheir doleful tale to-day. 

_14th May, 1872. _--People came from Ujiji to-day, and report that manyof Mohamad Bogharib's slaves have died of small-pox--Fundi and Sulimanamongst them. Others sent out to get firewood have been captured by theWaha. Mohamad's chief slave, Othman, went to see the cause of theirlosses received a spear in the back, the point coming out at hisbreast. It is scarcely possible to tell how many of the slaves haveperished since they were bought or captured, but the loss has beengrievous. 

Lewalé off to Mfutu to loiter and not to fight. The Bagoyé don't wishArabs to come near the scene of action, because, say they, "When oneArab is killed all the rest ran away, and they frighten us thereby. Stayat M'futu; we will do all the fighting. " This is very acceptable advice. 

_16th May, 1872. _--A man came from Ujiji to say one of the party atKasongo's reports that a marauding party went thence to the island ofBazula north of them. They ferried them to an island, and in coming backthey were assaulted by the islanders in turn. They speared two in canoesshoving off, and the rest, panic-struck, took to the water, andthirty-five were slain. It was a just punishment, and shows what theManyuema can do, if aroused to right their wrongs. No news of Baker'sparty; but Abed and Hassani are said to be well, and far down theLualaba. Nassur Masudi is at Kasongo's, probably afraid by the Zulaslaughter to go further. They will shut their own market againstthemselves. Lewalé sends off letters to the Sultan to-day. I have nonews to send, but am waiting wearily. 

_17th May, 1872. _--Ailing. Making cheeses for the journey: good, butsour rather, as the milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't userennet, but allow the milk to coagulate of itself, and it does thickenin half a day. 

_18th-19th May, 1872. _--One of Dugumbé's men came to-day from Ujiji. Heconfirms the slaughter of Matereka's people, but denies that ofDugumbé's men. They went to Lomamé about eleven days west, and found itto be about the size of Luamo; it comes from a Lake, and goes toLualaba, near the Kisingité, a cataract. Dugumbé then sent his peopledown Lualaba, where much ivory is to be obtained. They secured a greatdeal of copper--1000 thick bracelets--on the south-west of Nyangwé, andsome ivory, but not so much as they desired. No news of Abed. Lomaméwater is black, and black scum comes up in it. 

_20th May, 1872. _--Better. Very cold winds. The cattle of the Batusiwere captured by the Arabs to prevent them going off with the Baganda:my four amongst them. I sent over for them and they were returned thismorning. Thirty-five of Mohamad's slaves died of small-pox. 

_21st May, 1872. _--The genuine Africans of this region have flattenednose-bridges; the higher grades of the tribes have prominentnose-bridges, and are on this account greatly admired by the Arabs. TheBatusi here, the Balunda of Casembe, and Itawa of Nsama, and manyManyuema have straight noses, but every now and then you come todistricts in which the bridgeless noses give the air of the low Englishbruiser class, or faces inclining to King Charles the Second's spaniels. The Arab progeny here have scanty beards, and many grow to a very greatheight--tall, gaunt savages; while the Muscatees have prominentnose-bridges, good beards, and are polite and hospitable. 

I wish I had some of the assurance possessed by others, but I amoppressed with the apprehension that after all it may turn out that Ihave been following the Congo; and who would risk being put into acannibal pot, and converted into black man for it?

_22nd May, 1872. _--Baganga are very black, with a tinge of copper colourin some. Bridgeless noses all. 

_23rd May, 1872. _--There seems but little prospect of Christianityspreading by ordinary means among Mohamadans. Their pride is a greatobstacle, and is very industriously nurtured by its votaries. No newinvention or increase of power on the part of Christians seems todisturb the self-complacent belief that ultimately all power anddominion in this world will fall into the hands of Moslems. Mohamad willappear at last in glory, with all his followers saved by him. When Mr. Stanley's Arab boy from Jerusalem told the Arab bin Saleh that he was aChristian, he was asked, "Why so, don't you know that all the world willsoon be Mohamadan? Jerusalem is ours; all the world is ours, and in ashort time we shall overcome all. " Theirs are great expectations!

A family of ten Whydah birds _(Vidua purpurea)_ come to thepomegranate-trees in our yard. The eight young ones, full-fledged, arefed by the dam, as young pigeons are. The food is brought up from thecrop without the bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup brisklyfor food: the dam gives most, while the redbreasted cock gives one ortwo, and then knocks the rest away. 

_24th May, 1872. _--Speke at Kasengé islet inadvertently made a generalstatement thus: "The mothers of these savage people have infinitely lessaffection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I have seen amother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately meet her death byrepeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavouring to rescue her youngfrom the grasp of intruding men. But here, for a simple loin-cloth ortwo, human mothers eagerly exchanged their little offspring, deliveringthem into perpetual bondage to my Beluch soldiers. "--_Speke_, pp. 234, 5. For the sake of the little story of "a bear mother, " Speke made ageneral assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation. Frequentinquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled Arabs failed tofind confirmation of this child-selling, except in the very rare case ofa child cutting the upper front teeth before the under, and because thischild is believed to be "moiko" (_unlucky_), and certain to bring deathinto the family. It is called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab, or even left at his door. This is the only case the Arabs know ofchild-selling. Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the ideathat they loaded themselves with infants, at once stamps the tale asfabulous. He may have seen one sold, an extremely rare and exceptionalcase; but the inferences drawn are just like that of the Frenchman whothought the English so partial to suicide in November, that they mightbe seen suspended from trees in the common highways. 

In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained at the isletKasengé about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab traders werepresent, all eager to buy slaves, but none were offered, and theyassured me that they had never seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke, though they had heard of the "unlucky" cases referred to. Everyone hasknown of poor little foundlings in England, but our mothers are notcredited with less affection than she-bears. 

I would say to missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. Youhave no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast tribes, and devoting yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, youwill find, with some drawbacks and wickednesses, a very great deal toadmire and love. Many statements made about them require confirmation. You will never see women selling their infants: the Arabs never did, norhave I. An assertion of the kind was made by mistake. 

Captive children are often sold, but not by their mothers. Faminesometimes reduces fathers to part with them, but the selling ofchildren, as a general practice, is quite unknown, and, as Speke put it, quite a mistake. 

_25th and 26th May, 1872. _--Cold weather. Lewalé sends for all Arabs tomake a grand assault, as it is now believed that Mirambo is dead, andonly his son, with few people, remains. 

Two Whydah birds, after their nest was destroyed several times, now tryagain in another pomegranate-tree in the yard. They put back their eggs, as they have the power to do, and build again. 

The trout has the power of keeping back the ova when circumstances areunfavourable to their deposit. She can quite absorb the whole, butoccasionally the absorbents have too much to do; the ovarium, andeventually the whole abdomen, seems in a state of inflammation, as whenthey are trying to remove a mortified human limb; and the poor fish, feeling its strength leaving it, true to instinct, goes to the entranceto the burn where it ought to have spawned, and, unable to ascend, dies. The defect is probably the want of the aid of a milter. 

_27th May, 1872. _--Another pair of the kind (in which the cock isredbreasted) had ten chickens, also rebuilds afresh. The red cock-birdfeeds all the brood. Each little one puts his head on one side as heinserts his bill, chirruping briskly, and bothering him. The young oneslift up a feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to do thesame, in play. So, too, with another pair. The cock skips from side toside with a feather in his bill, and the hen is pleased: nature is fullof enjoyment. Near Kasanganga's I saw boys shooting locusts that settledon the ground with little bows and arrows. 

Cock Whydah bird died in the night. The brood came and chirruped to itfor food, and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing death!

A wagtail dam refused its young a caterpillar till it had beenkilled--she ran away from it, but then gave it when ready to beswallowed. The first smile of an infant with its toothless gums is oneof the pleasantest sights in nature. It is innocence claiming kinship, and asking to be loved in its helplessness. 

_28th May, 1872. _--Many parts of this interior land present mostinviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence. Karagué, for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumainyika(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, andfriendly chief, who could easily be swayed by an energetic prudentmissionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support otherthan an occasional supply of beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, andso is sugar-cane. When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema I madesugar by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the country, squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till thick; the defectit had was a latent acidity, for which I had no lime, and it soon allfermented. I saw sugar afterwards at Ujiji made in the same way, andthat kept for months. Wheat and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in allthis upland region; the only thing a missionary needs in order to securean abundant supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper seasonfor sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are abundant inUnyanyembé; mangoes flourish, and grape vines are beginning to becultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions, radishes, pumpkins andwatermelons prosper, and so would most European vegetables, if theproper seasons were selected for planting, and the most important pointattended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tinsor put in close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they areconfined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetatingis destroyed, but garden seeds put up in common brown paper, and hung inthe cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to the direct rays of the sunafterwards, I have found to be as good as in England. 

It would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe life, but with abundant materialsfor surrounding oneself with comforts, and improving the improvableamong the natives. Clothing would require but small expense: four suitsof strong tweed served me comfortably for five years. Woollen clothingis the best; if all wool, it wears long and prevents chills. Thetemperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 62° to 75° Fahr. In summer it seldom goes above 84°, as the country generally is from3600 to 4000 feet high. Gently undulating plains with outcroppingtree-covered granite hills on the ridges and springs in valleys willserve as a description of the country. 

_29th May, 1872. _--Halima ran away in a quarrel with Ntaoéka: I wentover to Sultan bin Ali and sent a note after her, but she came back ofher own accord, and only wanted me to come outside and tell her toenter. I did so, and added, "You must not quarrel again. " She has beenextremely good ever since I got her from Katombo or Moene-mokaia: Inever had to reprove her once. She is always very attentive and clever, and never stole, nor would she allow her husband to steal. She is thebest spoke in the wheel; this her only escapade is easily forgiven, andI gave her a warm cloth for the cold, by way of assuring her that I hadno grudge against her. I shall free her, and buy her a house and gardenat Zanzibar, when we get there. [20] Smokes or haze begins, and birds, stimulated by the cold, build briskly. 

_30th May, 1872, Sunday. _--Sent over to Sultan bin Ali, to write anothernote to Lewalé, to say first note not needed. 

_31st May, 1872. _--The so-called Arab war with Mirambo drags its slowlength along most wearily. After it is over then we shall get Banyamwezipagazi in abundance. It is not now known whether Mirambo is alive ornot: some say that he died long ago, and his son keeps up his stateinstead. 

In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual doubt andperplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great Lualaba, or Lualubba, as Manyuema say, may turn out to be the Congo and Nile, a shorter riverafter all--the fountains flowing north and south seem in favour of itsbeing the Nile. Great westing is in favour of the Congo. It would becomfortable to be positive like Baker. "Every drop from the passingshower to the roaring mountain torrent must fall into Albert Lake, agiant at its birth. " How soothing to be positive. 

_1st June, 1872. _--Visited by Jemadar Hamees from Katanga, who gives thefollowing information. 

UNYANYEMBÉ, _Tuesday_. --Hamees bin Jumaadarsabel, a Beluch, came herefrom Katanga to-day. He reports that the three Portuguese traders, Jão, Domasiko, and Domasho, came to Katanga from Matiamvo. They boughtquantities of ivory and returned: they were carried in Mashilahs[21] byslaves. This Hamees gave them pieces of gold from the rivulet therebetween the two copper or malachite hills from which copper is dug. Hesays that Tipo Tipo is now at Katanga, and has purchased much ivory fromKayomba or Kayombo in Rua. He offers to guide me thither, going first toMeréré's, where Amran Masudi has now the upper hand, and Meréré offersto pay all the losses he has caused to Arabs and others. Two letterswere sent by the Portuguese to the East Coast, one is in Amran's hands. Hamees Wodin Tagh is alive and well. These Portuguese went nowhere fromKatanga, so that they have not touched the sources of the Nile, forwhich I am thankful. 

Tipo Tipo has made friends with Merosi, the Monyamwezé headman atKatanga, by marrying his daughter, and has formed the plan of assaultingCasembe in conjunction with him because Casembe put six of Tipo Tipo'smen to death. He will now be digging gold at Katanga till this manreturns with gunpowder. 

[Many busy calculations are met with here which are too involved to begiven in detail. At one point we see a rough conjecture as to the lengthof the road through Fipa. ]

On looking at the projected route by Meréré's I seethat it will be asaving of a large angle into Fipa = 350 into Basango country S. S. W. OrS. And by W. , this comes into Lat. 10' S. , and from this W. S. W. 400' toLong. Of Katanga, skirting Bangweolo S. Shore in 12° S. = the wholedistance = 750', say 900'. 

[Further on we see that he reckoned on his work occupying him till1874. ]

If Stanley arrived the 1st of May at Zanzibar:--allow = 20 days to getmen and settle with them = May 20th, men leave Zanzibar 22nd of May =now 1st of June. 

 On the road may be 10 days Still to come 30 days, June 30 " -- Ought to arrive 10th or 15th of July 40 "

14th of June = Stanley being away now 3 months; say he left Zanzibar24th of May = at Aden 1st of June = Suez 8th of June, near Malta 14th ofJune. 

Stanley's men may arrive in July next. Then engage pagazi half a month =August, 5 months of this year will remain for journey, the whole of 1873will be swallowed up in work, but in February or March, 1874, please theAlmighty Disposer of events, I shall complete my task and retire. 

_2nd June, 1872. _--A second crop here, as in Angola. The lemons andpomegranates are flowering and putting out young fruits anew, though thecrops of each have just been gathered. Wheat planted a month ago is nowa foot high, and in three months will be harvested. The rice and duraare being reaped, and the hoes are busy getting virgin land ready. Beans, and Madagascar underground beans, voandzeia and ground-nuts areripe now. Mangoes are formed; the weather feels cold, min. 62°, max. 74°, and stimulates the birds to pair and build, though they are ofbroods scarcely weaned from being fed by their parents. Bees swarm andpass over us. Sky clear, with fleecy clouds here and there. 

_7th June, 1872. _--Sultan bin Ali called. He says that the path by Fipais the best, it has plenty of game, and people are friendly. [22] Bygoing to Amran I should get into the vicinity of Meréré, and possibly bedetained, as the country is in a state of war. The Beluch wouldnaturally wish to make a good thing of me, as he did of Speke. I gavehim a cloth and arranged the Sungomazé beads, but the box and beadsweigh 140 lbs. , or two men's loads. I visited Lewalé. Heard of Bakergoing to Unyoro Water, Lake Albert. Lewalé praises the road byMoeneyungo and Meréré, and says he will give a guide, but he never wentthat way. 

_10th June, 1872. _--Othman, our guide from Ujiji hither, called to-day, and says positively that the way by Fipa is decidedly the shortest andeasiest: there is plenty of game, and the people are all friendly. Hereports that Mirambo's headman, Merungwé, was assaulted and killed, andall his food, cattle, and grain used. Mirambo remains alone. He has, itseems, inspired terror in the Arab and Banyamwezi mind by his charms, and he will probably be allowed to retreat north by flight, and the warfor a season close; if so, we shall get plenty of Banyamwezi pagazi, andbe off, for which I earnestly long and pray. 

_13th June, 1872. _--Sangara, one of Mr. Stanley's men, returned fromBagamoio, and reports that my caravan is at Ugogo. He arrived to-day, and reports that Stanley and the American Consul acted like goodfellows, and soon got a party of over fifty off, as he heard while atBagamoio, and he left. The main body, he thinks, are in Ugogo. Hecameon with the news, but the letters were not delivered to him. I do mostfervently thank the good Lord of all for His kindness to me throughthese gentlemen. The men will come here about the end of this month. Bombay happily pleaded sickness as an excuse for not re-engaging, asseveral others have done. He saw that I got a clear view of hisfailings, and he could not hope to hoodwink me. 

After Sangara came, I went over to Kukuru to see what the Lewalé hadreceived, but he was absent at Tabora. A great deal of shouting, firingof guns, and circumgyration by the men who had come from the war justoutside the stockade of Nkisiwa (which is surrounded by a hedge of darkeuphorbia and stands in a level hollow) was going on as we descended thegentle slope towards it. Two heads had been put up as trophies in thevillage, and it was asserted that Marukwé, a chief man of Mirambo, hadbeen captured at Uvinza, and his head would soon come too. It actuallydid come, and was put up on a pole. 

I am most unfeignedly thankful that Stanley and Webb have acted nobly. 

_14th June, 1872. _--On 22nd June Stanley was 100 days gone: he must bein London now. 

Seyed bin Mohamad Margibbé called to say that he was going off towardsKatanga to-morrow by way of Amran. I feel inclined to go by way of Fiparather, though I should much like to visit Meréré. By the bye, he saystoo that the so-called Portuguese had filed teeth, and are thereforeMambarré. 

_15th June, 1872. _--Lewalé doubts Sangara on account of having broughtno letters. Nothing can be believed in this land unless it is in blackand white, and but little even then; the most circumstantial details areoften mere figments of the brain. The one half one hears may safely becalled false, and the other half doubtful or _not proven. _

Sultan bin Ali doubts Sangara's statements also, but says, "Let us waitand see the men arrive, to confirm or reject them. " I incline to belief, because he says that he did not see the men, but heard of them atBagamoio. 

_16th June, 1872. _--Nsaré chief, Msalala, came selling from Sakuma onthe north--a jocular man, always a favourite with the ladies. He offereda hoe as a token of friendship, but I bought it, as we are, I hope, soongoing off, and it clears the tent floor and ditch round it in wetweather. 

Mirambo made a sortie against a headman in alliance with the Arabs, andwas quite successful, which shows that he is not so much reduced asreports said. 

Boiling points to-day about 9 A. M. There is a full degree of differencebetween boiling in an open pot and in Casella's apparatus. 

 205°. 1 open pot } } 69° air. 206°. 1 Casella }

About 200 Baguha came here, bringing much ivory and palm oil for salebecause there is no market nor goods at Ujiji for the produce. A fewpeople came also from Buganda, bringing four tusks and an invitation toSeyed Burghash to send for two housefuls of ivory which Mtéza hascollected. 

_18th June, 1872. _--Sent over a little quinine to Sultan bin Ali--he isailing of fever--and a glass of "Moiko" the shameful!

The Ptolemaic map defines people according to their food. TheElephantophagi, the Struthiophagi, the Ichthyophagi, and Anthropophagi. If we followed the same sort of classification our definition would bethe drink, thus:--the tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaringpotheen-fuddlers, the whisky-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinairebibbers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe of the brandycocktail persuasion. 

[His keen enjoyment in noticing the habits of animals and birds servesa good purpose whilst waiting wearily and listening to disputed rumoursconcerning the Zanzibar porters. The little orphan birds seem to get onsomehow or other; perhaps the Englishman's eye was no bad protection, and his pity towards the fledglings was a good lesson, we will hope, tothe children around the Tembé at Kwihara--]

_19th June, 1872. _--Whydahs, though full fledged, still gladly take afeed from their dam, putting down the breast to the ground and cockingup the bill and chirruping in the most engaging manner and winning waythey know. She still gives them a little, but administers a friendlyshove off too. They all pick up feathers or grass, and hop from side toside of their mates, as if saying, "Come, let us play at making littlehouses. " The wagtail has shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest. She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is extremely activein catching flies, but eats crumbs of bread-and-milk too. Sun-birdsvisit the pomegranate flowers and eat insects therein too, as well asnectar. The young whydah birds crouch closely together at night forheat. They look like a woolly ball on a branch. By day they engage inpairing and coaxing each other. They come to the same twig every night. Like children they try and lift heavy weights of feathers above theirstrength. 

[How fully he hoped to reach the hill from which he supposed the Nile toflow is shown in the following words written at this time:--]

I trust in Providence still to help me. I know the four rivers Zambesi, Kafué, Luapula, and Lomamé, their fountains must exist in one region. 

An influential Muganda is dead of dysentery: no medicine had any effectin stopping the progress of the disease. This is much colder than hiscountry. Another is blind from ophthalmia. 

Great hopes are held that the war which has lasted a full year will nowbe brought to a close, and Mirambo either be killed or flee. As he isundoubtedly an able man, his flight may involve much trouble andguerilla warfare. 

Clear cold weather, and sickly for those who have only thin clothing, and not all covered. 

The women work very hard in providing for their husbands' kitchens. Therice is the most easily prepared grain: three women stand round a hugewooden mortar with pestles in their hands, a gallon or so of theunhusked rice--called Mopunga here and paddy in India--is poured in, andthe three heavy pestles worked in exact time; each jerks up her body asshe lifts the pestle and strikes it into the mortar with all her might, lightening the labour with some wild ditty the while, though one hearsby the strained voice that she is nearly out of breath. When the husksare pretty well loosened, the grain is put into a large plate-shapedbasket and tossed so as to bring the chaff to one side, the vessel isthen heaved downwards and a little horizontal motion given to it whichthrows the refuse out; the partially cleared grain is now returned tothe mortar, again pounded and cleared of husks, and a semicircular tossof the vessel sends all the remaining unhusked grain to one side, whichis lifted out with the hand, leaving the chief part quite clean: theycertainly work hard and well. The maize requires more labour by far: itis first pounded to remove the outer scales from the grain, then steepedfor three days in water, then pounded, the scales again separated by theshallow-basket tossings, then pounded fine, and the fine white flourseparated by the basket from certain hard rounded particles, which arecooked as a sort of granular porridge--"Mtyéllé. "

When Ntaoéka chose to follow us rather than go to the coast, I did notlike to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, and proposed thatshe should marry one of my three worthies, Chuma, Gardner, or Mabruki, but she smiled at the idea. Chuma was evidently too lazy ever to get awife; the other two were contemptible in appearance, and she has a goodpresence and is buxom. Chuma promised reform: "he had been lazy, headmitted, because he had no wife. " Circumstances led to the other womenwishing Ntaoéka married, and on my speaking to her again she consented. I have noticed her ever since working hard from morning to night: thefirst up in the cold mornings, making fire and hot water, pounding, carrying water, wood, sweeping, cooking. 

_21st June, 1872. _--No jugglery or sleight-of-hand, as was recommendedto Napoleon III. , would have any effect in the civilization of theAfricans; they have too much good sense for that. Nothing brings them toplace thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing. They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process orfeat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribeeverything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness orunselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill orpower. They say, "You have different hearts from ours; all black men'shearts are bad, but yours are good. " The prayer to Jesus for a new heartand right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has greatinfluence on those who have musical ears, and often leads to conversion. 

[Here and there he gives more items of intelligence from the war whichafford a perfect representation of the rumours and contradictions whichharass the listener in Africa, especially if he is interested, asLivingstone was, in the re-establishment of peace between thecombatants. ]

Lewalé is off to the war with Mirambo; he is to finish it now! Acontinuous fusilade along his line of march west will expend muchpowder, but possibly get the spirits up. If successful, we shall getBanyamwezi pagazi in numbers. 

Mirambo is reported to have sent 100 tusks and 100 slaves towards thecoast to buy gunpowder. If true, the war is still far from beingfinished; but falsehood is fashionable. 

_26th June, 1872. _--Went over to Kwikuru and engaged Mohamad bin Seydeto speak to Nkasiwa for pagazi; he wishes to go himself. The people sentby Mirambo to buy gunpowder in Ugogo came to Kitambi, he reported thematter to Nkasiwa that they had come, and gave them pombe. When Lewaléheard it, he said, "Why did Kitambi not kill them; he is a partaker inMirambo's guilt?" A large gathering yesterday at M'futu to make anassault on the last stockade in hostility. 

[A few notes in another pocket-book are placed under this date. Thus:--]

_24th June, 1872. _--A continuous covering of forests is a sign of avirgin country. The earlier seats of civilization are bare and treelessaccording to Humboldt. The civilization of the human race sets bounds tothe increase of forests. It is but recently that sylvan decorationsrejoice the eyes of the Northern Europeans. The old forests attest theyouthfulness of our civilization. The aboriginal woods of Scotland arebut recently cut down. (Hugh Miller's _Sketches_, p. 7. )

Mosses often evidence the primitive state of things at the time of theRoman invasion. Roman axe like African, a narrow chisel-shaped tool, left sticking in the stumps. 

The medical education has led me to a continual tendency to suspend thejudgment. What a state of blessedness it would have been had I possessedthe dead certainty of the homoeopathic persuasion, and as soon as Ifound the Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and Kamolondo pouring out their watersdown the great central valley, bellowed out, "Hurrah! Eureka!" and gonehome in firm and honest belief that I had settled it, and no mistake. Instead of that I am even now not at all "cock-sure" that I have notbeen following down what may after all be the Congo. 

_25th June, 1872. _--Send over to Tabora to try and buy a cow fromBasakuma, or northern people, who have brought about 100 for sale. I gottwo oxen for a coil of brass wire and seven dotis of cloth. 

FOOTNOTES:

[17] This elephant was subsequently sent by Dr. Kirk to Sir PhilipWodehouse, Governor of Bombay. When in Zanzibar it was perfectly tame. We understand it is now in the possession of Sir Solar Jung, to whomit was presented by Sir Philip Wodehouse. --Ed. 

[18] Lewalé appears to be the title by which the Governor of the townis called. 

[19] Judges xviii. 

[20] Halima followed the Doctor's remains to Zanzibar. It does seemhard that his death leaves her long services entirely unrequited. --ED. 

[21] The Portuguese name for palanquin. 

[22] It will be seen that this was fully confirmed afterwards byLivingstone's men: the fact may be of importance to futuretravellers. --ED. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors. Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower. 

[And now the long-looked for letters came in by various hands, but withlittle regularity. It is not here necessary to refer to the withdrawalof the Livingstone Relief Expedition which took place as soon as Mr. Stanley confronted Lieutenant Dawson on his way inland. Suffice it tosay that the various members of this Expedition, of which his secondson, Mr. Oswell Livingstone, was one, had already quitted Africa forEngland when these communications reached Unyanyembé. ]

_27th June, 1872. _--Received a letter from Oswell yesterday, datedBagamoio, 14th May, which awakened thankfulness, anxiety, and deepsorrow. 

_28th June, 1872. _--Went over to Kwikuru yesterday to speak aboutpagazi. Nkasiwa was off at M'futu to help in the great assault onMirambo, which is hoped to be the last. But Mohamad bin Seyed promisedto arrange with the chief on his return. I was told that Nkasiwa has thehead of Morukwé in a kirindo or band-box, made of the inner bark of atree, and when Morukwé's people have recovered they will come and redeemit with ivory and slaves, and bury it in his grave, as they did the headof Ishbosheth in Abner's grave in Hebron. 

Dugumbé's man, who went off to Ujiji to bring ivory, returned to-day, having been attacked by robbers of Mirambo. The pagazi threw down alltheir loads and ran; none were killed, but they lost all. 

_29th June, 1872. _--Received a packet from Sheikh bin Nasib containing aletter for him and one 'Pall Mall Gazette, ' one Overland Mail and fourPunches. Provision has been made for my daughter by Her Majesty'sGovernment of 300_l. _, but I don't understand the matter clearly. 

_2nd July, 1872. _--Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and Mr. Webb, ofZanzibar: explain to Kirk, and beg him to investigate and punish, andput blame on right persons. Write Sir Bartle Frere and Agnes: send largepacket of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir Thomas Maclearby a native, Suleiman. 

_3rd July, 1872. _--Received a note from Oswell, written in April last, containing the sad intelligence of Sir Roderick's departure from amongus. Alas! alas! this is the only time in my life I ever felt inclined touse the word, and it bespeaks a sore heart: the best friend I everhad--true, warm, and abiding--he loved me more than I deserved: he looksdown on me still. I must feel resigned to the loss by the Divine Will, but still I regret and mourn. 

Wearisome waiting, this; and yet the men cannot be here before themiddle or end of this month. I have been sorely let and hindered in thisjourney, but it may have been all for the best. I will trust in Him towhom I commit my way. 

_5th July, 1872. _--Weary! weary!

_7th July, 1872. _--Waiting wearily here, and hoping that the good andloving Father of all may favour me, and help me to finish my workquickly and well. 

Temperature at 6 A. M. 61°; feels cold. Winds blow regularly from theeast; if it changes to N. W. Brings a thick mantle of cold grey clouds. Atyphoon did great damage at Zanzibar, wrecking ships and destroyingcocoa-nuts, carafu, and all fruits: happened five days after SeyedBurghash's return from Mecca. 

At the Loangwa of Zumbo we came to a party of hereditary hippopotamushunters, called Makembwé or Akombwé. They follow no other occupation, but when their game is getting scanty at one spot they remove to someother part of the Loangwa, Zambesi, or Shiré, and build temporary hutson an island, where their women cultivate patches: the flesh of theanimals they kill is eagerly exchanged by the more settled people forgrain. They are not stingy, and are everywhere welcome guests. I neverheard of any fraud in dealing, or that they had been guilty of anoutrage on the poorest: their chief characteristic is their courage. Their hunting is the bravest thing I ever saw. Each canoe is manned bytwo men; they are long light craft, scarcely half an inch in thickness, about eighteen inches beam, and from eighteen to twenty feet long. Theyare formed for speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Eachman uses a broad short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly downstream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is raised on thesmooth water; they look as if holding in their breath, and communicateby signs only. As they come near the prey the harpooner in the bow laysdown his paddle and rises slowly up, and there he stands erect, motionless, and eager, with the long-handled weapon poised at arm'slength above his head, till coming close to the beast he plunges it withall his might in towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has tokeep his balance exactly. His neighbour in the stern at once backs hispaddle, the harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too toescape: the animal surprised and wounded seldom returns the attack atthis stage of the hunt. The next stage, however, is full of danger. 

The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and very strongrope wound round the handle: it is intended to come out of its socket, and while the iron head is firmly fixed in the animal's body the ropeunwinds and the handle floats on the surface. The hunter next goes tothe handle and hauls on the rope till he knows that he is right over thebeast: when he feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliveranother harpoon the instant that hippo. 's enormous jaws appear with aterrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is againrepeated, but hippo. Often assaults the canoe, crunches it with hisgreat jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers itwith a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of their canoe the gallantcomrades instantly dive and swim to the shore under water: they say thatthe infuriated beast looks for them on the surface, and being below theyescape his sight. When caught by many harpoons the crews of severalcanoes seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakenedby loss of blood, he succumbs. 

This hunting requires the greatest skill, courage, and nerve that can beconceived--double armed and threefold brass, or whatever the Æneid says. The Makombwé are certainly a magnificent race of men, hardy and activein their habits, and well fed, as the result of their brave exploits;every muscle is well developed, and though not so tall as some tribes, their figures are compact and finely proportioned: being a familyoccupation it has no doubt helped in the production of fine physicaldevelopment. Though all the people among whom they sojourn would likethe profits they secure by the flesh and curved tusks, and no game ispreserved, I have met with no competitors to them except the Wayeiye ofLake Ngami and adjacent rivers. 

I have seen our dragoon officers perform fencing and managing theirhorses so dexterously that every muscle seemed trained to its fullestpower and efficiency, and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombwéthey might have equalled their daring and consummate skill: but we haveno sport, except perhaps Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courageand coolness this enterprise demands. The danger may be appreciated ifone remembers that no sooner is blood shed in the water than all thecrocodiles below are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and areready to act the part of thieves in a London crowd, or worse. 

_8th July, 1872. _--At noon, wet bulb 66°, dry 74°. These observationsare taken from thermometers hung four feet from the ground on the coolside (south) of the house, and beneath an earthen roof with completeprotection from wind and radiation. Noon known by the shadows beingnearly perpendicular. To show what is endured by a traveller, thefollowing register is given of the heat on a spot, four feet from theground, protected from the wind by a reed fence, but exposed to thesun's rays, slanting a little. 

 Noon. Wet Bulb 78° Dry Bulb 102° 2 P. M. 77° 99° 3 P. M. 78° 102° 4 P. M. 72° 88° (Agreeable marching now. ) 6 P. M. 66° 77°

_9th July, 1872. _--Clear and cold the general weather: cold ispenetrating. War forces have gone out of M'futu and built a camp. Fearof Mirambo rules them all: each one is nervously anxious not to die, andin no way ashamed to own it. The Arabs keep out of danger: "Better tosleep in a whole skin" is their motto. 

_Noon_. --Spoke to Singeri about the missionary reported to be coming:he seems to like the idea of being taught and opening up the country byway of the Nile. I told him that all the Arabs confirmed Mtesa'scruelties, and that his people were more to blame than he: it was guiltbefore God. In this he agreed fully, but said, "What Arab was killed?"meaning, if they did not suffer how can they complain?

 6 A. M. Wet Bulb 55° Dry Bulb 57° min. 55° 9 A. M. 74° 82° Noon. 74° 98° (Now becomes too hot to march. ) 3. 30 P. M. 75° 90°

_10th July, 1872. _

 6 A. M. 59° 65° min. 55° Noon. 67° 77° shady. 3 P. M. 69° 81° cloudy. 5 P. M. 65° 75° cloudy. 

_10th July, 1872. _--No great difficulty would be encountered inestablishing a Christian Mission a hundred miles or so from the EastCoast. The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary, because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or haverelations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves his subjects, and so do others. His permission would be readily granted, ifrespectfully applied for through the English Consul. The Suaheli, withtheir present apathy on religious matters, would be no obstacle. Care tospeak politely, and to show kindness to them, would not be lost labourin the general effect of the Mission on the country, but all discussionon the belief of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little aboutit. Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possessneither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal oroffensive denial of the authority of their Prophet to fan their ownbigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air ofsuperiority in matters of worship, and would fain take the place ofMullams or doctors of the law, by giving authoritative dicta as to thetimes of prayer; positions to be observed; lucky and unlucky days; usingcabalistic signs; telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when anattack may be made on any enemy, &c. ; but this is done only in the fieldwith trading parties. At Zanzibar, the regular Mullams supersede them. 

No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the country toread their own languages in the Roman character. No Arab has everattempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran, they are called _guma_, hard, or difficult as to religion. This is not wonderful, since the Koran isnever translated, and a very extraordinary desire for knowledge would berequired to sustain a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of, to him, unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs, Monyumgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read andwrite the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of suchcivilization as he has seen among the Arabs. To the natives, the chiefattention of the Mission should be directed. It would not be desirable, or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided givingoffence to intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believedin Mohamad by saying, "No I do not: I am a child of Jesus bin Miriam, "avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often adding that Mohamadfound their forefathers bowing down to trees and stones, and did good tothem by forbidding idolatry, and teaching the worship of the only OneGod. This, they all know, and it pleases them to have it recognised. 

It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage freeporters, and conduct the Mission to the country chosen, and obtainpermission from the chief to build temporary houses. If this Arab werewell paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring suppliesof goods and stores not produced in the country, as tea, coffee, sugar. The first porters had better all go back, save a couple or so, who havebehaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live forgeneral services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping, smith'swork, carpenter's work, pottery, baskets, &c. Educated free blacks froma distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much ofgentlemen for your work. You may in a few months raise natives who willteach reading to others better than they can, and teach you also muchthat the liberated never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally willsatisfy them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work willplease those who, being brought from a distance, naturally considerthemselves missionaries. Slaves also have undergone a process which hasspoiled them for life; though liberated young, everything of childhoodand opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our ownoffspring, and nothing effaces the fairy scenes then printed on thememory. Some of my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes andtasteless squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their earlyfood; and an ounce of meat never entered their mouths. It seemsindispensable that each Mission should raise its own native agency. Acouple of Europeans beginning, and carrying on a Mission without a staffof foreign attendants, implies coarse country fare, it is true, but thiswould be nothing to those who, at home amuse themselves with fastings, vigils, &c. A great deal of power is thus lost in the Church. Fastingsand vigils, without a special object in view, are time run to waste. They are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead ofbeing turned to account for the good of others. They are like groaningin sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill with continuousmoaning. The forty days of Lent might be annually spent in visitingadjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a goodgrace. Considering the greatness of the object to be attained, menmight go without sugar, coffee, tea, &c. I went from September 1866 toDecember 1868 without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a dishcooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrible sweetness, but at100 miles inland, supplies could be easily obtained. 

The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform me that, ingoing from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only 3000 dollars' worth are requiredby a trader, say between 600_l. _ or 700_l. _, and he may be away three ormore years; paying his way, giving presents to the chiefs, and filling200 or 300 mouths. He has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition, flints, and may return with 4000 lbs. Of ivory, and a number of slavesfor sale; all at an outlay of 600_l. _ or 700_l. _ With the experience Ihave gained now, I could do all I shall do in this expedition for a likesum, or at least for 1000_l. _ less than it will actually cost me. 

_12th July, 1872. _--Two men come from Syde bin Habib report fighting asgoing on at discreet distances against Mirambo. 

Sheikh But, son of Mohamad bin Saleh, is found guilty of stealing a tuskof 2-1/2 frasilahs from the Lewalé. He has gone in disgrace to fightMirambo: his father is disconsolate, naturally. Lewalé has beenmerciful. 

When endeavouring to give some account of the slave-trade of EastAfrica, it was necessary to keep far within the truth, in order not tobe thought guilty of exaggeration; but in sober seriousness the subjectdoes not admit of exaggeration. To overdraw its evils is a simpleimpossibility. The sights I have seen, though common incidents of thetraffic, are so nauseous that I always strive to drive them from memory. In the case of most disagreeable recollections I can succeed, in time, in consigning them to oblivion, but the slaving scenes come backunbidden, and make me start up at dead of night horrified by theirvividness. To some this may appear weak and unphilosophical, since it isalleged that the whole human race has passed through the process ofdevelopment. We may compare cannibalism to the stone age, and the timesof slavery to the iron and bronze epochs--slavery is as natural a stepin human development as from bronze to iron. 

Whilst speaking of the stone age I may add that in Africa I have neverbeen fortunate enough to find one flint arrowhead or any other flintimplement, though I had my eyes about me as diligently as any of myneighbours. No roads are made; no lands levelled; no drains digged; noquarries worked, nor any of the changes made on the earth's surface thatmight reveal fragments of the primitive manufacture of stone. Yet butlittle could be inferred from the negative evidence, were it notaccompanied by the fact that flint does not exist in any part south ofthe equator. Quartz might have been used, but no remains exist, exceptthe half-worn millstones, and stones about the size of oranges, used forchipping and making rough the nether millstone. Glazed pipes andearthenware used in smelting iron, show that iron was smelted in theremotest ages in Africa. These earthenware vessels, and fragments ofothers of a finer texture, were found in the delta of the Zambesi and inother parts in close association with fossil bones, which, on beingtouched by the tongue, showed as complete an absence of animal matter asthe most ancient fossils known in Europe. They were the bones ofanimals, as hippopotami, water hogs, antelopes, crocodiles, identicalwith those now living in the country. These were the primitive fauna ofAfrica, and if vitrified iron from the prodigious number of brokensmelting furnaces all over the country was known from the remotesttimes, the Africans seem to have had a start in the race, at a time whenour progenitors were grubbing up flints to save a miserable existence bythe game they might kill. Slave-trading seems to have been coeval withthe knowledge of iron. The monuments of Egypt show that this curse hasvenerable antiquity. Some people say, "If so ancient, why try to stopan old established usage now?" Well, some believe that the afflictionthat befel the most ancient of all the patriarchs, Job, was small-pox. Why then stop the ravages of this venerable disease in London and NewYork by vaccination?

But no one expects any benevolent efforts from those who cavil and carpat efforts made by governments and peoples to heal the enormous opensore of the world. Some profess that they would rather give "their mite"for the degraded of our own countrymen than to "niggers"! Verily it is"a mite, " and they most often forget, and make a gift of it tothemselves. It is almost an axiom that those who do most for the heathenabroad are most liberal for the heathen at home. It is to this class weturn with hope. With others arguments are useless, and the only answer Icare to give is the remark of an English sailor, who, on seeingslave-traders actually at their occupation, said to his companion, "Shiver my timbers, mate, if the devil don't catch these fellows, wemight as well have no devil at all. "

In conversing with a prince at Johanna, one of the Comoro islands lyingoff the north end of Madagascar, he took occasion to extol the wisdom ofthe Arabs in keeping strict watch over their wives. On suggesting thattheir extreme jealousy made them more like jailers than friends of theirwives, or, indeed, that they thus reduced themselves to the level of theinferior animals, and each was like the bull of a herd and not like areasonable man--"fuguswa"--and that they gave themselves a vast deal oftrouble for very small profit; he asserted that the jealousy wasreasonable because all women were bad, they could not avoid goingastray. And on remarking that this might be the case with Arab women, but certainly did not apply to English women, for though a number wereuntrustworthy, the majority deserved all the confidence their husbandscould place in them, he reiterated that women were universally bad. Hedid not believe that women ever would be good; and the English allowingtheir wives to gad about with faces uncovered, only showed theirweakness, ignorance, and unwisdom. 

The tendency and spirit of the age are more and more towards theundertaking of industrial enterprises of such magnitude and skill as torequire the capital of the world for their support and execution--as thePacific Railroad, Suez Canal, Mont Cenis Tunnel, and railways in Indiaand Western Asia, Euphrates Railroad, &c. The extension and use ofrailroads, steamships, telegraphs, break down nationalities and bringpeoples geographically remote into close connection commercially andpolitically. They make the world one, and capital, like water, tends toa common level. 

[Geologists will be glad to find that the Doctor took pains to arrangehis observations at this time in the following form. ]

A really enormous area of South Central Africa is covered with volcanicrocks, in which are imbedded angular fragments of older strata, possiblysandstone, converted into schist, which, though carried along in themolten mass, still retain impressions of plants of a low order, probablythe lowest--Silurian--and distinct ripple marks and raindrops in whichno animal markings have yet been observed. The fewness of the organicremains observed is owing to the fact that here no quarries are worked, no roads are made, and as we advance north the rank vegetation covers upeverything. The only stone buildings in the country north of the Capecolony are the church and mission houses at Kuruman. In the walls therethe fragments, with impressions of fossil leaves, have been brokenthrough in the matrix, once a molten mass of lava. The area which thisbasalt covers extends from near the Vaal River in the south, to a pointsome sixty miles beyond the Victoria Falls, and the average breadth isabout 150 miles. The space is at least 100, 000 square miles. Sandstonerocks stand up in it at various points like islands, but all aremetamorphosed, and branches have flowed off from the igneous sea intovalleys and defiles, and one can easily trace the hardening process ofthe fire as less and less, till at the outer end of the stream the rocksare merely hardened. These branches equal in size all the rocks andhills that stand like islands, so that we are justified in assuming thearea as at least 100, 000 square miles of this basaltic sea. 

The molten mass seems to have flowed over in successive waves, and thetop of each wave was covered with a dark vitreous scum carrying scoriæwith angular fragments. This scum marks each successive overflow, as astratum from twelve to eighteen inches or more in thickness. In one partsixty-two strata are revealed, but at the Victoria Falls (which aresimply a rent) the basaltic rock is stratified as far as our eyes couldsee down the depth of 310 feet. This extensive sea of lava was probablysub-aerial, because bubbles often appear as coming out of the rock intothe vitreous scum on the surface of each wave: in some cases they havebroken and left circular rings with raised edges, peculiar to anyboiling viscous fluid. In many cases they have cooled as round pustules, as if a bullet were enclosed; on breaking them the internal surface iscovered with a crop of beautiful crystals of silver with their heads alldirected to the centre of the bubble, which otherwise is empty. 

These bubbles in stone may be observed in the bed of the Kuruman River, eight or ten miles north of the village; and the mountain called"Amhan, " west-north-west of the village, has all the appearance ofhaving been an orifice through which the basalt boiled up as water ormud does in a geyser. 

The black basaltic mountains on the east of the Bamangwato, formerlycalled the Bakaa, furnish further evidence of the igneous eruptionsbeing sub-aerial, for the basalt itself is columnar at many points, andat other points the tops of the huge crystals appear in groups, and theapices not flattened, as would have been the case had they beendeveloped under the enormous pressure of an ocean. A few miles on theirsouth a hot salt fountain boils forth and tells of interior heat. Another, far to the south-east, and of fresh water, tells the same tale. 

Subsequently to the period of gigantic volcanic action, the outflow offresh lime-water from the bowels of the earth seems to have beenextremely large. The land now so dry that one might wander in variousdirections (especially westwards, to the Kalahari), and perish for lackof the precious fluid as certainly as if he were in the interior ofAustralia, was once bisected in all directions by flowing streams andgreat rivers, whose course was mainly to the south. These river beds arestill called by the natives "_melapo_" in the south, but in the north"_wadys_, " both words meaning the same thing, "river beds in which nowater ever now flows. " To feed these a vast number of gushing fountainspoured forth for ages a perennial supply. When the eye of the fountainis seen it is an oval or oblong orifice, the lower portion distinctlywater worn, and there, by diminished size, showing that as ages elapsedthe smaller water supply had a manifestly lesser erosive power. In thesides of the mountain Amhan, already mentioned, good specimens of thesewater-worn orifices still exist, and are inhabited by swarms of bees, whose hives are quite protected from robbers by the hardness of thebasaltic rocks. The points on which the streams of water fell arehollowed by its action, and the space around which the water splashed iscovered by calcareous tufa, deposited there by the evaporation of thesun. 

Another good specimen of the ancient fountains is in a cave nearKolobeng, called "_Lepélolé_, " a word by which the natives theresometimes designate the sea. The wearing power of the primeval waters ishere easily traced in two branches--the upper or more ancient ending inthe characteristic oval orifice, in which I deposited a Father Mathew'sleaden temperance token: the lower branch is much the largest, as thatby which the greatest amount of water flowed for a much longer periodthan the other. The cave Lepélolé was believed to be haunted, and no onedared to enter till I explored it as a relief from more serious labour. The entrance is some eight or more feet high, and five or six wide, inreddish grey sandstone rock, containing in its substance banks of wellrounded shingle. The whole range, with many of the adjacent hills on thesouth, bear evidence of the scorching to which the contiguity of thelava subjected them. In the hardening process the silica was sometimessweated out of this rock, and it exists now as pretty efflorescences ofwell-shaped crystals. But not only does this range, which stands eightor ten miles north of Kolobeng, exhibit the effects of igneous action, it shows on its eastern slope the effects of flowing water, in a largepot-hole called Löe, which has the reputation of having given exit to allthe animals in South Africa, and also to the first progenitors of thewhole Bechuana race. Their footsteps attest the truth of this belief. Iwas profane enough to be sceptical, because the large footstep of thefirst man Matsieng was directed as if going into instead of out of thisfamous pot-hole. Other huge pot-holes are met with all over the country, and at heights on the slopes of the mountains far above the levels ofthe ancient rivers. 

Many fountains rose in the courses of the ancient river beds, and theoutflow was always in the direction of the current of the parent stream. Many of these ancient fountains still contain water, and form the stageson a journey, but the primitive waters seem generally to have been ladenwith lime in solution: this lime was deposited in vast lakes, which arenow covered with calcareous tufa. One enormous fresh-water lake, inwhich probably sported the Dyconodon, was let off when the remarkablerent was made in the basalt which now constitutes the Victoria Falls. Another seems to have gone to the sea when a similar fissure was made atthe falls of the Orange River. It is in this calcareous tufa alone thatfossil animal remains have yet been found. There are no marinelimestones except in friths which the elevation of the west and eastcoasts have placed far inland in the Coanza and Somauli country, andthese contain the same shells as now live in the adjacent seas. 

Antecedently to the river system, which seems to have been a greatsouthern Nile flowing from the sources of the Zambesi away south to theOrange River, there existed a state of fluvial action of greateractivity than any we see now: it produced prodigious beds ofwell-rounded shingle and gravel. It is impossible to form an idea oftheir extent. The Loangwa flows through the bed of an ancient lake, whose banks are sixty feet thick, of well-rounded shingle. The Zambesiflows above the Kebrabasa, through great beds of the same formation, andgenerally they are of hard crystalline rocks; and it is impossible toconjecture what the condition of the country was when the largepot-holes were formed up the hillsides, and the prodigious attritionthat rounded the shingle was going on. The land does not seem to havebeen submerged, because marine limestones (save in the exceptional casesnoted) are wanting; and torrents cutting across the ancient river bedsreveal fresh-water shells identical with those that now inhabit itsfresh waters. The calcareous tufa seems to be the most recent rockformed. At the point of junction of the great southern prehistoric Nilewith an ancient fresh-water lake near Buchap, and a few miles fromLikatlong, a mound was formed in an eddy caused by some conical liastowards the east bank of this rent within its bed, and the dead animalswere floated into the eddy and sank; their bones crop out of the whitetufa, and they are so well preserved that even the black tartar onbuffalo and zebra's teeth remain: they are of the present species ofanimals that now inhabit Africa. This is the only case of fossils ofthese animals being found _in situ_. In 1855 I observed similar fossilsin banks of gravel in transitu all down the Zambesi above Kebrabasa; andabout 1862 a bed of gravel was found in the delta with many of the samefossils that had come to rest in the great deposit of that river, butwhere the Zambesi digs them out is not known. In its course below theVictoria Falls I observed tufaceous rocks: these must contain the bones, for were they carried away from the great tufa Lake bottom of Seshéké, down the Victoria Falls, they would all be ground into fine silt. Thebones in the river and in the delta were all associated with pieces ofcoarse pottery, exactly the same as the natives make and use at thepresent day: with it we found fragments of a fine grain, onlyoccasionally seen among Africans, and closely resembling ancientcinerary urns: none were better baked than is customary in the countrynow. The most ancient relics are deeply worn granite, mica-schist, andsandstone millstones; the balls used for chipping and roughing them, ofabout the shape and size of an orange, are found lying near them. Nostone weapons or tools ever met my eyes, though I was anxious to findthem, and looked carefully over every ancient village we came to formany years. There is no flint to make celts, but quartz and rocks havinga slaty cleavage are abundant. It is only for the finer work that theyuse iron tongs, hammers, and anvils and with these they turn out workwhich makes English blacksmiths declare Africans never did. They arevery careful of their tools: indeed, the very opposites to the flintimplement men, who seem sometimes to have made celts just for thepleasure of throwing them away: even the Romans did not seem to know thevalue of their money. 

The ancient Africans seem to have been at least as early as theAsiatics in the art of taming elephants. The Egyptian monuments showthem bringing tame elephants and lions into Egypt; and very ancientsculptures show the real African species, which the artist must haveseen. They refused to sell elephants, which cost them months of hardlabour to catch and tame, to a Greek commander of Egyptian troops for afew brass pots: they were quite right. Two or three tons of fine fatbutcher-meat were far better than the price, seeing their wives couldmake any number of cooking pots for nothing. 

_15th July, 1872. _--Reported to-day that twenty wounded men have beenbrought into M'futu from the field of fighting. About 2000 are said tobe engaged on the Arab side, and the side of Mirambo would seem to bestrong, but the assailants have the disadvantage of firing against astockade, and are unprotected, except by ant-hills, bushes, and ditchesin the field. I saw the first kites to-day: one had spots of whitefeathers on the body below, as if it were a young one--probably comefrom the north. 

_17th July, 1872. _--Went over to Sultan bin Ali yesterday. Very kind, asusual; he gave me guavas and a melon--called "matanga. " It is reportedthat one of Mirambo's chief men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealedholes, which acted like Bruce's "craw-taes" at Bannockburn, and woundedseveral, probably the twenty reported. This has induced the Arabs tosend for a cannon they have, with which to batter Mirambo at a distance. The gun is borne past us this morning: a brass 7-pounder, dated 1679. Carried by the Portuguese Commander-in-Chief to China 1679, or 193 yearsago--and now to beat Mirambo, by Arabs who have very little interest inthe war. 

Some of his people, out prowling two days ago, killed a slave. The waris not so near an end as many hoped. 

 * * * * *

[Mtesa's people on their way back to Uganda were stuck fast atUnyanyembé the whole of this time: it does not appear at all who themissionary was to whom he refers. ]

 * * * * *

Lewalé sends off the Baganda in a great hurry, after detaining them forsix months or more till the war ended, and he now gets pagazi ofBanyamwezi for them. This haste (though war is not ended) is probablybecause Lewalé has heard of a missionary through me. 

Mirambo fires now from inside the stockade alone. 

_19th July, 1872. _--Visited Salim bin Seff, and was very hospitablyentertained. He was disappointed that I could not eat largely. They livevery comfortably: grow wheat, whilst flour and fruits grace their board. Salim says that goat's flesh at Zanzibar is better than beef, but herebeef is better than goat's flesh. He is a stout, jolly fellow. 

_20th July, 1872. _--High cold winds prevail. Temperature, 6 A. M. , 57°;noon, on the ground, 122°. It may be higher, but I am afraid to risk thethermometer, which is graduated to 140° only. 

_21st July, 1872. _--Bought two milch cows (from a Motusi), which, withtheir calves, were 17 dotis or 34 fathoms. The Baganda are packing up toleave for home. They take a good deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa fromthe Moslems. Temperature at noon, 96°. 

Another nest of wagtails flown. They eat bread crumbs. The whydahs arebusy pairing. Lewalé returns to-day from M'futu on his own privatebusiness at Kwikuru. The success of the war is a minor considerationwith all. I wish my men would come, and let me off from this wearywaiting. 

Some philosophising is curious. It represents our Maker forming themachine of the universe: setting it a-going, and able to do nothing moreoutside certain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the egg of thewhole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched by the sun. We cancontrol laws, but He cannot! A fire set to this house would consume it, but we can throw on water and consume the fire. We control the elements, fire and water: is He debarred from doing the same, and more, who hasinfinite wisdom and knowledge? He surely is greater than His own laws. Civilization is only what has been done with natural laws. Some foolishspeculations in morals resemble the idea of a Muganda, who said lastnight, that if Mtesa didn't kill people now and then, his subjects wouldsuppose that he was dead!

_23rd July, 1872. _--The departure of the Baganda is countermanded, forfear of Mirambo capturing their gunpowder. 

Lewalé interdicts them from going; he says, "You may go, but leave allthe gunpowder here, because Mirambo will follow and take it all to fightwith us. " This is an afterthought, for he hurried them to go off. A fewwill go and take the news and some goods to Mtesa, and probably a lot ofLewalé's goods to trade at Karagwé. 

The Baganda are angry, for now their cattle and much of their propertyare expended here; but they say, "We are strangers, and what can we dobut submit?" The Banyamwesi carriers would all have run away on theleast appearance of danger. No troops are sent by Seyed Burghash, thoughthey were confidently reported long ago. All trade is at a standstill. 

_24th July, 1872. _--The Bagohé retire from the war. This month isunlucky. I visited Lewalé and Nkasiwa, putting a blister on the latter, for paralytic arm, to please him. Lewalé says that a general flight fromthe war has taken place. The excuse is hunger. 

He confirms the great damage done by a cyclone at Zanzibar to shipping, houses, cocoa-nut palms, mango-trees, and clove-trees, also houses anddhows, five days after Burghash returned. Sofeu volunteers to go withus, because Mohamad Bogharib never gave him anything, and Bwana Mohinnahas asked him to go with him. I have accepted his offer, and willexplain to Mohamad, when I see him, that this is what he promised me inthe way of giving men, but never performed. 

_27th July, 1872. _--At dawn a loud rumbling in the east as if ofthunder, possibly a slight earthquake; no thunder-clouds visible. 

Bin Nassib came last night and visited me before going home to his ownhouse; a tall, brown, polite Arab. He says that he lately received apacket for Mr. Stanley from the American Consul, sealed in tin, and sentit back: this is the eleventh that came to Stanley. A party of nativetraders who went with the Baganda were attacked by Mirambo's people, anddriven back with the loss of all their goods and one killed. Thefugitives returned this morning sorely downcast. A party of twenty-threeloads left for Karagwé a few days ago, and the leader alone hasreturned; he does not know more than that one was killed. Another wasslain on this side of M'futu by Mirambo's people yesterday, the countrythus is still in a terribly disturbed state. Sheikh bin Nassib says thatthe Arabs have rooted out fifty-two headmen who were Mirambo's allies. 

_28th July, 1872. _--To Nkasiwa; blistered him, as the first relieved thepain and pleased him greatly; hope he may derive benefit. 

Cold east winds, and clouded thickly over all the sky. 

_29th July, 1872. _--Making flour of rice for the journey. Visited Sheikhbin Nassib, who has a severe attack of fever; he cannot avoid going tothe war. He bought a donkey with the tusk he stole from Lewalé, and itdied yesterday; now Lewalé says, "Give me back my tusk;" and the Arabreplies, "Give me back my donkey. " The father must pay, but his son'scharacter is lost as well as the donkey. Bin Nassib gave me a present ofwheaten bread and cakes. 

_30th July, 1872. _--Weary waiting this, and the best time for travellingpasses over unused. High winds from the east every day bring cold, and, to the thinly-clad Arabs, fever. Bin Omari called: goes to Katanga withanother man's goods to trade there. 

_31st July, 1872. _--We heard yesterday from Sahib bin Nassib that thecaravan of his brother Kisessa was at a spot in Ugogo, twelve days off. My party had gone by another route. Thankful for even this in mywearisome waiting. 

CHAPTER IX. 

 Short years in Baganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections. Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor. Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat. Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepidosirens and vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. Higher mountains. Large bay. 

_1st August, 1872. _--A large party of Baganda have come to see what isstopping the way to Mtesa, about ten headmen and their followers; butthey were told by an Arab in Usui that the war with Mirambo was over. About seventy of them come on here to-morrow, only to be despatched backto fetch all the Baganda in Usui, to aid in fighting Mirambo. It isproposed to take a stockade near the central one, and therein build abattery for the cannon, which seems a wise measure. These arrivals are apoor, slave-looking people, clad in bark-cloth, "Mbuzu, " and havingshields with a boss in the centre, round, and about the size of theancient Highlanders' targe, but made of reeds. The Baganda already heresaid that most of the new-comers were slaves, and would be sold forcloths. Extolling the size of Mtesa's country, they say it would take ayear to go across it. When I joked them about it, they explained that ayear meant five months, three of rain, two of dry, then rain again. Wentover to apply medicine to Nkasiwa's neck to heal the outside; theinside is benefited somewhat, but the power will probably remainincomplete, as it now is. 

_3rd August, 1872. _--Visited Salem bin Seff, who is ill of fever. Theyare hospitable men. Called on Sultan bin Ali and home. It is he whoeffected the flight of all the Baganda pagazi, by giving ten strings ofbeads to Motusi to go and spread a panic among them by night; allbolted. 

_4th August, 1872. _--Wearisome waiting, and the sun is now rainy atmid-day, and will become hotter right on to the hot season in November, but this delay may be all for the best. 

_5th August, 1872. _--Visited Nkasiwa, and recommended shampooing thedisabled limbs with oil or flour. He says that the pain is removed. MoreBaganda have come to Kwihara, and will be used for the Mirambo war. 

In many parts one is struck by the fact of the children having so fewgames. Life is a serious business, and amusement is derived fromimitating the vocations of the parents--hut building, making littlegardens, bows and arrows, shields and spears. Elsewhere boys are veryingenious little fellows, and have several games; they also shoot birdswith bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. They are expert in makingguns and traps for small birds, and in making and using bird-lime. Theymake play guns of reed, which go off with a trigger and spring, with acloud of ashes for smoke. Sometimes they make double-barrelled guns ofclay, and have cotton-fluff as smoke. The boys shoot locusts with smalltoy guns very cleverly. A couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirtyspeckle-breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time thisseason, and lighted on the ground. This is the kind that builds here inhouses, and as far south as Shupanga, on the Zambesi, and at Kuraman. Sun-birds visit a mass of spiders' web to-day; they pick out the youngspiders. Nectar is but part of their food. The insects in or at thenectar could not be separated, and hence have been made an essentialpart of their diet. On closer inspection, however, I see that whilstseeming to pick out young spiders--and they probably do so--they end indetaching the outer coating of spiders' web from the inner stiff paperweb, in order to make a nest between the two. The outer part is a thincoating of loose threads: the inner is tough paper, impervious web, justlike that which forms the wasps' hive, but stronger. The hen brings finefibres and places them round a hole 1-1/2 inch in diameter, then worksherself in between the two webs and brings cotton to line the insideformed by her body. 

--What is the atonement of Christ? It is Himself: it is the inherentand everlasting mercy of God made apparent to human eyes and ears. Theeverlasting love was disclosed by our Lord's life and death. It showedthat God forgives, because He loves to forgive. He works by smiles ifpossible, if not by frowns; pain is only a means of enforcing love. 

If we speak of strength, lo! He is strong. The Almighty; the Over Power;the Mind of the Universe. The heart thrills at the idea of Hisgreatness. 

--All the great among men have been remarkable at once for the graspand minuteness of their knowledge. Great astronomers seem to know everyiota of the Knowable. The Great Duke, when at the head of armies, couldgive all the particulars to be observed in a cavalry charge, and tookcare to have food ready for all his troops. Men think that greatnessconsists in lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama, sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example of whata human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, themanifestation of the blessed God over all as minute in His care of all. He exercises a vigilance more constant, complete, and comprehensive, every hour and every minute, over each of His people than their utmostselflove could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than amother's heart can feel. 

_6th August, 1872. _--Wagtails begin to discard their young, which feedthemselves. I can think of nothing but "when will these men come?" Sixtydays was the period named, now it is eighty-four. It may be all for thebest, in the good Providence of the Most High. 

_9th August, 1872. _--I do most devoutly thank the Lord for His goodnessin bringing my men near to this. Three came to-day, and how thankful Iam I cannot express. It is well--the men who went with Mr. Stanley cameagain to me. "Bless the Lord, my soul, and all that is within me, blessHis holy name. " Amen. 

_10th August, 1872. _--Sent back the three men who came from the Safari, with 4 dotis and 3 lbs. Of powder. Called on the Lewalé to give the newsas a bit of politeness; found that the old chief Nksiwa had been bumpedby an ox, and a bruise on the ribs may be serious at his age: this isanother delay from the war. It is only half-heartedly that anyone goes. 

[At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival of atroop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters hired by Mr. Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick pupils sent from Bombay tojoin Lieut. Dawson. We find the names of John and Jacob Wainwrightamongst the latter on Mr. Stanley's list. 

Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll of Dr. Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five names whichalone represented at this time the list of his original followers; thesewere Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined him in 1864 on the Zambesi, thatis eight years previously, and Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hiredin 1866. We shall see that the new comers by degrees became accustomedto the hardships of travel, and shared with the old servants all thedanger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget that it was tothe intelligence and superior education of Jacob Wainwright (whom we nowmeet with for the first time) that we were indebted for the earliestaccount of the eventful eighteen months during which he was attached tothe party. 

And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing, and disputingamongst the porters. Amidst the inseparable difficulties of an Africanstart, one thankful heart gathers, comfort and courage:--]

_15th August, 1872. _--The men came yesterday (14th), having beenseventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most thankful to the Giver of all goodI am. I have to give them a rest of a few days, and then start. 

_16th August, 1872. _--An earthquake--"Kiti-ki-sha!"--about 7. 0 P. M. Shook me in my katanda with quick vibrations. They gradually becamefainter: it lasted some 50 seconds, and was observed by many. 

_17th August, 1872. _--Preparing things. 

_18th August, 1872. _--Fando to be avoided as extortionate. Went to bidadieu to Sultan bin Ali, and left goods with him for the return journey, and many cartridges full and empty, nails for boat, two iron pillars, &c. [23]

_19th August, 1872. _--Waiting for pagazi. Sultan bin Ali called; isgoing off to M'futu. _20th August, 1872. _--Weighed all the loads again, and gave an equal load of 50 lbs. To each, and half loads to theNassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah with Sultan bin Ali. He haslong been sick, and is unable to go with us. 

_21st August, 1872. _--Gave people an ox, and to a discarded wife acloth, to avoid exposure by her husband stripping her. She is somebody'schild!

_22nd August, 1872. _--Sunday. All ready, but ten pagazi lacking. 

_23rd August, 1872. _--Cannot get pagasi. Most are sent off to the war. 

[At last the start took place. It is necessary to mention that Dr. Livingstone's plan in all his travels was to make one short stage thefirst day, and generally late in the afternoon. This, although nothingin point of distance, acted like the drill-sergeant's "Attention!" Thenext morning everyone was ready for the road, clear of the town, unencumbered with parting words, and by those parting pipes, of terriblememory to all hurrying Englishmen in Africa!]

_25th August, 1872. _--Started and went one hour to village of Manga orYuba by a granite ridge; the weather clear, and a fine breeze from theeast refreshes. It is important to give short marches at first. Marched1-1/4 hour. 

_26th August, 1872. _--Two Nassickers lost a cow out of ten head ofcattle. Marched to Borna of Mayonda. Sent back five men to look afterthe cow. Cow not found: she was our best milker. 

_27th August, 1872. _--Started for Ebulua and Kasekéra of Mamba. Crosstorrent, now dry, and through forest to village of Ebulua; thence tovillage of Kasekéra, 3-1/2 hours. Direction, S. By W. 

_28th August, 1872. _--Reached Mayolé village in 2 hours and rested; S. And by W. Water is scarce in front. Through flat forest to amarshy-looking piece of water, where we camp, after a march of 1-1/2hour; still S. By W. 

_29th August, 1872. _--On through level forest without water. Treespresent a dry, wintry aspect; grass dry, but some flowers shoot out, andfresh grass where the old growth has been burnt off. 

_30th August, 1872. _--The two Nassickers lost all the cows yesterday, from sheer laziness. They were found a long way off, and one cowmissing. Susi gave them ten cuts each with a switch. Engaging pagazi andrest. 

_31st August, 1872. _--The Baganda boy Kassa was followed to Gunda, and Idelivered him to his countrymen. He escaped from Mayolé village thismorning, and came at 3 P. M. , his clothes in rags by running through theforest eleven hours, say twenty-two miles, and is determined not toleave us. Pass Kisari's village, one and a half mile distant, and on toPenta or Phintá to sleep, through perfectly flat forest. 3 hours S. ByW. 

_1st September, 1872. _--The same flat forest to Chikulu, S. And by W. , 4hours 25 m. Manyara called, and is going with us to-morrow. Jangiangépresented a leg of Kongolo or Taghetsé, having a bunch of white hairbeneath the orbital sinus. Bought food and served out rations to the menfor ten days, as water is scarce, and but little food can be obtained atthe villages. The country is very dry and wintry-looking, but flowersshoot out. First clouds all over to-day. It is hot now. A flock of smallswallows now appears: they seem tailless and with white bellies. 

_2nd September, 1872. _--The people are preparing their ten days' food. Two pagazi ran away with 24 dotis of the men's calico. Sent after them, but with small hopes of capturing them. 

_3rd September, 1872. _--Unsuccessful search. 

_4th September, 1872. _--Leave Chikulu's, and pass a large puff-adder inthe way. A single blow on the head killed it, so that it did not stir. About 3 feet long, and as thick as a man's arm, a short tail, and flatbroad head. The men say this is a very good sign for our journey, thoughit would have been a bad sign, and suffering and death, had one troddenon it. Come to Liwané; large tree and waters. S. S. W. 4-1/2 hours. 

_5th September, 1872. _--A long hot tramp to Manyara's. He is a kind oldman. Many of the men very tired and sick. S. S. W. 5-3/4 hours. 

_6th September, 1872. _--Rest the caravan, as we shall have to makeforced marches on account of tsetse fly. 

_7th September, 1872. _--Obliged to remain, as several are ill withfever. 

_8th September, 1872. _--On to N'gombo nullah. Very hot and people ill. Tsetse. A poor woman of Ujiji followed one of Stanley's men to thecoast. He cast her off here, and she was taken by another; but hertemper seems too excitable. She set fire to her hut by accident, and inthe excitement quarrelled all round; she is a somebody's bairnnevertheless, a tall, strapping young woman, she must have been thepride of her parents. 

_9th September, 1872. _--Telekéza[24] at broad part of the nullah, thenwent on two hours and passed the night in the forest. 

_10th September, 1872. _--On to Mwéras, and spent one night there by apool in the forest. Village two miles off. 

_11th September, 1872. _--On 8-1/2 hours to Telekéza. Sun very hot, andmarching fatiguing to all. 

Majwara has an insect in the aqueous chamber of his eye. It moves aboutand is painful. 

We found that an old path from Mwaro has water, and must go earlyto-morrow morning, and so avoid the roundabout by Morefu. We shall thussave two days, which in this hot weather is much for us. We hear thatSimba has gone to fight with Fipa. Two Banyamwezi volunteer. _12thSeptember, 1872. _--We went by this water till 2 P. M. , then made a march, and to-morrow get to villages. Got a buffalo and remain overnight. Wateris in hæmatite. I engaged four pagazi here, named Motepatonzé, Nsakusi, Muanamazungu, and Mayombo. 

_15th September, 1872. _--On to near range of hills. Much large gamehere. Ill. 

_16th September, 1872. _--Climbed over range about 200 feet high; then onwestward to stockaded villages of Kamirambo. His land begins at theM'toni. 

_17th September, 1872. _--To Metambo River: 1-1/4 broad, and marshy. Herebegins the land of Méréra. Through forest with many strychnus trees, 3-1/4 hours, and arrive at Méréra's. 

_18th September, 1872. _--Remain at Méréra's to prepare food. 

[There is a significant entry here: the old enemy was upon him. It wouldseem that his peculiar liability during these travels to one prostratingform of disease was now redoubled. The men speak of few periods of evencomparative health from this date. ]

_19th September, 1872. _--Ditto, ditto, because I am ill with bowels, having eaten nothing for eight days. Simba wants us to pass by hisvillage, and not by the straight path. 

_20th September, 1872. _--Went to Simba's; 3-1/2 hours. About north-west. Simba sent a handsome present of food, a goat, eggs, and a fowl, beans, split rice, dura, and sesame. I gave him three dotis of superior cloth. 

_21st September, 1872. _--Rest here, as the complaint does not yield tomedicine or time; but I begin to eat now, which is a favourable symptom. Under a lofty tree at Simba's, a kite, the common brown one, had twopure white eggs in its nest, larger than a fowl's, and very spherical. The Banyamwesi women are in general very coarse, not a beautiful womanamongst them, as is so common among the Batusi; squat, thick-setfigures, and features too; a race of pagazi. On coming inland fromsea-coast, the tradition says, they cut the end of a cone shell, so asto make it a little of the half-moon shape; this is their chiefornament. They are generally respectful in deportment, but not verygenerous; they have learned the Arab adage, "Nothing for nothing, " andare keen slave-traders. The gingerbread palm of Speke is the _Hyphene_;the Borassus has a large seed, very like the Coco-de-mer of theSeychelle Islands, in being double, but it is very small compared to it. 

_22nd September, 1872. _--Preparing food, and one man pretends inabilityto walk; send for some pagazi to carry loads of those who carry him. Simba sends copious libations of pombe. 

_23rd September, 1872. _--The pagazi, after demanding enormous pay, walked off. We went on along rocky banks of a stream, and, crossing it, camped, because the next water is far off. 

_24th September, 1872. _--Recovering and thankful, but weak; cross broadsedgy stream, and so on to Boma Misonghi, W. And by S. 

_25th September, 1872. _--Got a buffalo and M'juré, and remain to eatthem. I am getting better slowly. The M'juré, or water hog, was alleaten by hyænas during night; but the buffalo is safe. 

_26th September, 1872. _--Through forest, along the side of a sedgyvalley. Cross its head water, which has rust of iron in it, then W. And by S. The forest has very much tsetse. Zebras calling loudly, andSenegal long claw in our camp at dawn, with its cry, "O-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o. "

_27th September, 1872. _--On at dawn. No water expected, but we crossedthree abundant supplies before we came to hill of our camp. Much gameabout here. Getting well again--thanks. About W. 3-3/4 hours. No people, or marks of them. Flowers sprouting in expectation of rains; much landburned off, but grass short yet. 

_28th September, 1872. _--At two hills with mushroom-topped trees onwest side. Crossed a good stream 12 feet broad and knee deep. 

Buffaloes grazing. Many of the men sick. Whilst camping, a large muskcat broke forth among us and was killed. (Ya bude--musk). Musk cat(N'gawa), black with white stripes; from point of nose to tip of tail, 4feet; height at withers, 1 foot 6 inches. 

_29th September, 1872. _--Through much bamboo and low hills to M'pokwaruins and river. The latter in a deep rent in alluvial soil. Very hot, and many sick in consequence. Sombala fish abundant. Course W. 

_30th September, 1872. _--Away among low tree-covered hills of graniteand sandstone. Found that Bangala had assaulted the village to which wewent a few days ago, and all were fugitives. Our people found plenty ofBatatas[25] in the deserted gardens. A great help, for all were hungry. 

_1st October, 1872, Friday_--On through much deserted cultivation inrich damp soil. Surrounded with low tree-covered ranges. We saw a fewpeople, but all are in terror. 

_2nd October, 1872. _--Obtained M'tama in abundance for brass wire, andremained to grind it. The people have been without any for some days, and now rejoice in plenty. A slight shower fell at 5 A. M. , but notenough to lay the dust. 

_3rd October, 1872. _--Southwards, and down a steep descent into a richvalley with much green maize in ear; people friendly; but it was but onehour's march, so we went on through hilly country S. W. Men firing offammunition, had to be punished. We crossed the Katuma River in thebottom of a valley; it is 12 feet broad, and knee deep; camped in aforest. Farjella shot a fine buffalo. The weather disagreeably hot andsultry. 

_4th October, 1872. _--Over the same hilly country; the grass is burntoff, but the stalks are disagreeable. Came to a fine valley with a largeherd of zebras feeding quietly; pretty animals. We went only an hour anda half to-day, as one sick man is carried, and it is hot and trying forall. I feel it much internally, and am glad to more slowly. 

_5th October, 1872. _--Up and down mountains, very sore on legs andlungs. Trying to save donkey's strength I climbed and descended, and assoon as I mounted, off he set as hard as he could run, and he felt notthe bridle; the saddle was loose, but I stuck on till we reached waterin a bamboo hollow with spring. 

_6th October, 1872. _--A long bamboo valley with giraffes in it. Range onour right stretches away from us, and that on the left dwindled down;all covered with bamboos, in tufts like other grasses; elephants eatthem. Travelled W. And by S. 2-3/4 hours. Short marches on account ofcarrying one sick man. 

_7th October, 1872. _--Over fine park-like country, with large belts ofbamboo and fine broad shady trees. Went westwards to the end of theleft-hand range. Went four hours over a level forest with much hæmatite. Trees large and open. Large game evidently abounds, and waters generallyare not far apart. Our neighbour got a zebra, a rhinoceros, and twoyoung elephants. 

_8th October, 1872. _--Came on early as sun is hot, and in two hours sawthe Tanganyika from a gentle hill. The land is rough, with angularfragments of quartz; the rocks of mica schist are tilted up as if awayfrom the Lake's longer axis. Some are upright, and some have basaltmelted into the layers, and crystallized in irregular polygons. All arevery tired, and in coming to a stockade we were refused admittance, because Malongwana had attacked them lately, and we might seize themwhen in this stronghold. Very true; so we sit ontside in the shade of asingle palm (Borassus). 

_9th October, 1872. _--Rest, because all are tired, and several sick. This heat makes me useless, and constrains me to lie like a log. Inwardly I feel tired too. Jangeangé leaves us to-morrow, having foundcanoes going to Ujiji. 

_10th October, 1872. _--People very tired, and it being moreover Sundaywe rest. Gave each a keta of beads. Usowa chief Ponda. 

_11th October, 1872. _--Reach Kalema district after 2-3/4 hours overblack mud all deeply cracked, and many deep torrents now dry. Kalema isa stockade. We see Tanganyika, but a range of low hills intervenes. Arumour of war to-morrow. 

_12th October, 1872. _--We wait till 2 P. M. , and then make a forced marchtowards Fipa. The people cultivate but little, for fear of enemies; sowe can buy few provisions. We left a broad valley with a sand river init, where we have been two days, and climbed a range of hills parallelto Tanganyika, of mica schist and gneiss, tilted away from the Lake. Wemet a buffalo on the top of one ridge, it was shot into and lay down, but we lost it. Course S. W. To brink of Tanganyika water. 

_13th October, 1872. _--Our course went along the top of a range of hillslying parallel with the Lake. A great part of yesterday was on the samerange. It is a thousand feet above the water, and is covered with treesrather scraggy. At sunset the red glare on the surface made the waterlook like a sea of reddish gold; it seemed so near that many went off todrink, but were three or four hours in doing so. One cannot see theother side on account of the smokes in the air, but this morning threecapes jut out, and the last bearing S. E. From our camp seems to go nearthe other side. Very hot weather. To the town of Fipa to-morrow. Courseabout S. Though we suffer much from the heat by travelling at thisseason, we escape a vast number of running and often muddy rills, alsomuddy paths which would soon knock the donkey up. A milk-and-water skyportends rain. Tipo Tipo is reported to be carrying it with a high handin Nsama's country, Itawa, insisting that all the ivory must be broughtas his tribute--the conqueror of Nsama. Our drum is the greatest objectof curiosity we have to the Banyamwezi. A very great deal of cotton iscultivated all along the shores of Lake Tanganyika; it is the Pernambucokind, with the seeds clinging together, but of good and long fibre, andthe trees are left standing all the year to enable them to become large;grain and ground-nuts are cultivated between them. The cotton ismanufactured into coarse cloth, which is the general clothing of all. 

_14th October, 1872. _--Crossed two deep gullies with sluggish water inthem, and one surrounding an old stockade. Camp on a knoll, overlookingmodern stockade and Tanganyika very pleasantly. Saw two beautifulsultanas with azure blue necks. We might have come here yesterday, butwere too tired. Mukembé land is ruled by chief Kariaria; village, Mokaria. Mount M'Pumbwé goes into the Lake. N'Tambwé Mount; village, Kafumfwé. Kapufi is the chief of Fipa. 

Noon, and about fifty feet above Lake; clouded over. Temperature 91°noon; 94° 3 P. M. 

_15th October, 1872. _--Rest, and kill an ox. The dry heat isdistressing, and all feel it sorely. I am right glad of the rest, butkeep on as constantly as I can. By giving dura and maize to the donkeys, and riding on alternate days, they hold on; but I feel the sun more thanif walking. The chief Kariaria is civil. 

_16th October, 1872. _--Leave Mokaia and go south. We crossed severalbays of Tanganyika, the path winding considerably. The people set fireto our camp as soon as we started. 

_17th October, 1872. _--Leave a bay of Tanganyika, and go on to Mpimbwé;two lions growled savagely as we passed. Game is swarming here, but mymen cannot shoot except to make a noise. We found many lepidosirens in amuddy pool, which a group of vultures were catching and eating. The menspeared one of them, which had scales on; its tail had been bitten offby a cannibal brother: in length it was about two feet: there werecurious roe-like portions near its backbone, yellow in colour; the fleshwas good. We climbed up a pass at the east end of Mpimbwé mountain, andat a rounded mass of it found water. 

_18th October, 1872. _--Went on about south among mountains all day tillwe came down, by a little westing, to the Lake again, where there weresome large villages, well stockaded, with a deep gully half round them. Ill with my old complaint again. Bubwé is the chief here. Food dear, because Simba made a raid lately. The country is Kilando. 

_19th October, 1872. _--Remained to prepare food and rest the people. Twoislets, Nkoma and Kalengé, are here, the latter in front of us. 

_20th October, 1872. _--We got a water-buck and a large buffalo, andremained during the forenoon to cut up the meat, and started at 2 P. M. 

Went on and passed a large arm of Tanganyika, having a bar of hills onits outer border. Country swarming with large game. Passed two bomas, and spent the night near one of them. Course east and then south. 

_21st October, 1872. _--Mokassa, a Moganda boy, has a swelling of theankle, which prevents his walking. We went one hour to find wood to makea litter for him. The bomas round the villages are plastered with mud, so as to intercept balls or arrows. The trees are all cut down for thesestockades, and the flats are cut up with deep gullies. A great deal ofcotton is cultivated, of which the people make their cloth. There is anarm of Tanganyika here called Kafungia. 

I sent a doti to the headman of the village, where we made the litter, to ask for a guide to take us straight south instead of going east toFipa, which is four days off and out of our course. Tipo Tipo is saidto be at Morero, west of Tanganyika. 

_22nd October, 1872. _--Turned back westwards, and went through the hillsdown to some large islets in the Lake, and camped in villages destroyedby Simba. A great deal of cotton is cultivated here, about thirty feetabove the Lake. 

_23rd October, 1872. _--First east, and then passed two deep bays, at oneof which we put up, as they had food to sell. The sides of theTanganyika Lake are a succession of rounded bays, answering to thevalleys which trend down to the shore between the numerous ranges ofhills. In Lake Nyassa they seem made by the prevailing winds. We onlyget about one hour and a half south and by east. Rain probably fell lastnight, for the opposite shore is visible to-day. The mountain range ofBanda slopes down as it goes south. This is the district of Motoshi. Wherever buffaloes are to be caught, falling traps are suspended overthe path in the trees near the water. 

_24th October, 1872. _--There are many rounded bays in mountainous Fipa. We rested two hours in a deep shady dell, and then came along a veryslippery mountain-side to a village in a stockade. It is very hotto-day, and the first thunderstorm away in the east. The name of thisvillage is Lindé. 

_25th October, 1872. _--The coast runs south-south-east to a cape. Wewent up south-east, then over a high steep hill to turn to south again, then down into a valley of Tanganyika, over another stony side, and downto a dell with a village in it. The west coast is very plain to-day;rain must have fallen there. 

_26th October, 1872. _--Over hills and mountains again, past two deepbays, and on to a large bay with a prominent islet on the south side ofit, called Kitanda, from the chiefs name. There is also a rivulet offine water of the same name here. 

_27th October, 1872. _--Remained to buy food, which is very dear. Weslaughtered a tired cow to exchange for provisions. 

_28th October, 1872. _--Left Kitanda, and came round the cape, goingsouth. The cape furthest north bore north-north-west. We came to threevillages and some large spreading trees, where we were invited by theheadman to remain, as the next stage along the shore is long. Moriloislet is on the other or western side, at the crossing-place. The peoplebrought in a leopard in great triumph. Its mouth and all its claws werebound with grass and bands of bark, as if to make it quite safe, and itstail was curled round: drumming and lullilooing in plenty. 

The chief Mosirwa, or Kasamané, paid us a visit, and is preparing apresent of food. One of his men was bitten by the leopard in the armbefore he killed it. Molilo or Morilo islet is the crossing-place ofBanyamwezi when bound for Casembe's country, and is near to the LofukoRiver, on the western shore of the Lake. The Lake is about twelve orfifteen miles broad, at latitude 7° 52' south. Tipo Tipo is ruling inItawa, and bound a chief in chains, but loosed him on being requested todo so by Syde bin Ali. It takes about three hours to cross at Morilo. 

_29th October, 1872. _--Crossed the Thembwa Rivulet, twenty feet broadand knee deep, and sleep on its eastern bank. Fine cold water over stonybottom. The mountains now close in on Tanganyika, so there is no pathbut one, over which luggage cannot be carried. The stage after this issix hours up hill before we come to water. This forced me to stop afteronly a short crooked march of two and a quarter hours. We are now on theconfines of Fipa. The next march takes us into Burungu. 

_30th October, 1872. _--The highest parts of the mountains are from 500feet to 700 feet higher than the passes, say from 1300 feet to 1500 feetabove the Lake. A very rough march to-day; one cow fell, and wasdisabled. The stones are collected in little heaps and rows, whichshows that all these rough mountains were cultivated. We arrive at avillage on the Lake shore. Kirila islet is about a quarter of a milefrom the shore. The Megunda people cultivated these hills in formertimes. Thunder all the morning, and a few drops of rain fell. It willease the men's feet when it does fall. They call out earnestly for it, "Come, come with hail!" and prepare their huts for it. 

_31st October, 1872. _--Through a long pass after we had climbed overWinelao. Came to an islet one and a half mile long, called Kapessa, andthen into a long pass. The population of Megunda must have beenprodigious, for all the stones have been cleared, and every availableinch of soil cultivated. 

The population are said to have been all swept away by the Matuta. 

Going south we came to a very large arm of the Lake, with a village atthe end of it in a stockade. This arm is seven or eight miles long andabout two broad. We killed a cow to-day, and found peculiar flat wormsin the substance of the liver, and some that were rounded. 

FOOTNOTES:

[23] Without entering into the merits of a disputed point as towhether the men on their return journey would have been brought to astandstill at Unyanyembé but for the opportune presence of LieutenantCameron and his party, it will be seen nevertheless that this entryfully bears out the assertion of the men that they had cloth laid byin store here for the journey to the coast. 

It seems that by an unfortunate mistake a box of desiccated milk, ofwhich the Doctor was subsequently in great need, was left behindamongst these goods. The last words written by him will remind one ofthe circumstance. On their return the unlucky box was the first thingthat met Susi's eye!--ED. 

[24] Midday halt. 

[25] Sweet potatoes. 

CHAPTER X. 

 False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu. The nutmeg tree. Famine. Ill. Arrives at Chama's town. A difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi. Arrives at Chituñkué's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne through the flooded country. 

_1st November, 1872. _--We hear that an eruption of Babemba, on theBaulungu, destroyed all the food. We tried to buy food here, buteverything is hidden in the mountains, so we have to wait to-day tillthey fetch it. If in time, we shall make an afternoon's march. Rainingto-day. The Eiver Mulu from Chingolao gave us much trouble in crossingfrom being filled with vegetation: it goes into Tanganyika. Our coursesouth and east. 

_2nd November, 1872. _--Deceived by a guide, who probably feared hiscountrymen in front. Went round a stony cape, and then to a land-lockedharbour, three miles long by two broad. Here was a stockade, where ourguide absconded. They told us that if we continued our march we shouldnot get water for four hours, so we rested, having marched four and aquarter hours. 

_3rd November, 1872. _--We marched this morning to a village where foodwas reported. I had to punish two useless men for calling out, "Posho!posho! posho!" (rations) as soon as I came near. One is a confirmedbangé-smoker;[26]the blows were given slightly, but I promised that thenext should be severe. The people of Liemba village having a cow or two, and some sheep and goats, eagerly advised us to go on to the nextvillage, as being just behind a hill, and well provisioned. Four veryrough hills were the penalty of our credulity, taking four hours ofincessant toil in these mountain fastnesses. They hide their food, andthe paths are the most difficult that can be found, in order to wear outtheir enemies. To-day we got to the River Luazi, having marched five anda half hours, and sighting Tanganyika near us twice. 

_4th November, 1872. _--All very tired. We tried to get food, but it isvery dear, and difficult to bargain for. Goods are probably brought fromFipa. A rest will be beneficial to us. 

_5th November, 1872. _--We went up a high mountain, but found that one ofthe cows could not climb up, so I sent back and ordered it to beslaughtered, waiting on the top of the mountain whilst the people wentdown for water. 

_6th November, 1872. _--Pass a deep narrow bay and climb a steepmountain. Too much for the best donkey. After a few hours' climb we lookdown on the Lake, with its many bays. A sleepy glare floats over it. Further on we came on a ledge of rocks, and looked sheer down 500 feetor 600 feet into its dark green waters. We saw three zebras and a youngpython here, and fine flowers. 

_7th November, 1872, Sunday. _--Remained, but the headman forbade hispeople to sell us food. We keep quiet except to invite him to a parley, which he refuses, and makes loud lullilooing in defiance, as if he wereinclined to fighting. At last, seeing that we took no notice of him, hesent us a present; I returned three times its value. 

_8th November, 1872. _--The large donkey is very ill, and unable to climbthe high mountain in our front. I left men to coax him on, and they didit well. I then sent some to find a path out from the Lake mountains, for they will kill us all; others were despatched to buy food, but theLake folks are poor except in fish. 

Swifts in flocks were found on the Lake when we came to it, and thereare small migrations of swallows ever since. Though this is the veryhottest time of year, and all the plants are burnt off or quite dried, the flowers persist in bursting out of the hot dry surface, generallywithout leaves. A purple ginger, with two yellow patches inside, is verylovely to behold, and it is alternated with one of a bright canaryyellow; many trees, too, put on their blossoms. The sun makes the soilso hot that the radiation is as if it came from a furnace. It burns thefeet of the people, and knocks them up. Subcutaneous inflammation isfrequent in the legs, and makes some of my most hardy men useless. Wehave been compelled to slowness very much against my will. I too wasill, and became better only by marching on foot. Riding exposes one tothe bad influence of the sun, while by walking the perspiration modifiesbeneficially the excessive heat. It is like the difference in effect ofcold if one is in activity or sitting, and falling asleep on astage-coach. I know ten hot fountains north of the Orange River; thefurther north the more hot and numerous they become. 

[Just here we find a note, which does not bear reference to anythingthat occurred at this time. Men, in the midst of their hard earnesttoil, perceive great truths with a sharpness of outline and a depth ofconviction which is denied to the mere idle theorist: he says:--]

The spirit of Missions is the spirit of our Master: the very genius ofHis religion. A diffusive philanthropy is Christianity itself. Itrequires perpetual propagation to attest its genuineness. 

_9th November, 1872. _--We got very little food, and kill a calf to fillour mouths a little. A path east seems to lead out from these mountainsof Tanganyika. We went on east this morning in highland open forest, then descended by a long slope to a valley in which there is water. ManyMilenga gardens, but the people keep out of sight. The highlands are ofa purple colour from the new leaves coming out. The donkey began to eatto my great joy. Men sent off to search for a village returnempty-handed, and we must halt. I am ill and losing much blood. 

_10th November, 1872. _--Out from the Lake mountains, and along highridges of sandstone and dolomite. Our guide volunteered to take the menon to a place where food can be bought--a very acceptable offer. Thedonkey is recovering; it was distinctly the effects of tsetse, for theeyes and all the mouth and nostrils swelled. Another died at Kwiharawith every symptom of tsetse poison fully developed. 

[The above remarks on the susceptibility of the donkey to the bite ofthe tsetse fly are exceedingly important. Hitherto Dr. Livingstone hadalways maintained, as the result of his own observations, that thisanimal, at all events, could be taken through districts in which horses, mules, dogs, and oxen would perish to a certainty. With the keenperception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a viewto open it up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments, and there is no doubt that the distinct result which he here arrived atmust have a very significant bearing on the question of travel andtransport. 

Still passing through the same desolate country, we see that he makes anote on the forsaken fields and the watch-towers in them. Cucumbers arecultivated in large quantities by the natives of Inner Africa, and thereader will no doubt call to mind the simile adopted by Isaiah some 2500years ago, as he pictured the coming desolation of Zion, likening her toa "lodge in a garden of cucumbers. "[27]]

_11th November, 1872. _--Overgently undulating country, with many old gardens and watch-houses, someof great height, we reached the River Kalambo, which I know as fallinginto Tanganyika. A branch joins it at the village of Mosapasi; it isdeep, and has to be crossed by a bridge, whilst the Kalambo is shallow, and say twenty yards wide, but it spreads out a good deal. 

[Their journey of the _12th_ and _13th_ led them over low ranges ofsandstone and hæmatite, and past several strongly stockaded villages. The weather was cloudy and showery--a relief, no doubt, after theburning heat of the last few weeks. They struck the Halochéché River, arapid stream fifteen yards wide and thigh deep, on its way to the Lake, and arrived at Zombé's town, which is built in such a manner that theriver runs through it, whilst a stiff palisade surrounds it. He says:--]

It was entirely surrounded by M'toka's camp, and a constant fightmaintained at the point where the line of stakes was weakened by theriver running through. He killed four of the enemy, and then Chitimbwaand Kasonso coming to help him, the siege was raised. 

M'toka compelled some Malongwana to join him, and plundered manyvillages; he has been a great scourge. He also seems to have made anattack upon an Arab caravan, plundering it of six bales of cloth and oneload of beads, telling them that if they wanted to get their things backthey must come and help him conquer Zombé. The siege lasted threemonths, till the two brothers of Zombé, before-mentioned, came, and thena complete rout ensued. M'toka left nearly all his guns behind him; hisallies, the Malongwana, had previously made their escape. It is twomonths since this rout, so we have been prevented by a kind Providencefrom coming soon enough. He was impudent and extortionate before, andmuch more now that he has been emboldened by success in plundering. 

_16th November, 1872. _--After waiting some time for the men I sent menback yesterday to look after the sick donkey, they arrived, but thedonkey died this morning. Its death was evidently caused by tsetse biteand bad usage by one of the men, who kept it forty-eight hours withoutwater. The rain, no doubt, helped to a fatal end; it is a great loss tome. 

_17th November, 1872. _--We went on along the bottom of a high ridge thatflanks the Lake on the west, and then turned up south-east to a villagehung on the edge of a deep chasm in which flows the Aeezy. 

_18th November, 1872. _--We were soon overwhelmed in a pouring rain, andhad to climb up the slippery red path which is parallel and near toMbétté's. One of the men picked up a little girl who had been desertedby her mother. As she was benumbed by cold and wet he carried her; butwhen I came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a man to carryher, and we gave her to one of the childless women; she is about fouryears old, and not at all negro-looking. Our march took us about S. W. ToKampamba's, the son of Kasonso, who is dead. 

_19th November, 1872. _--I visited Kampamba. He is still as agreeable ashe was before when he went with us to Liemba. I gave him two cloths as apresent. He has a good-sized village. There are heavy rains now and thenevery day. 

_20th, 21st, and 23rd November, 1872. _--The men turn to stringing beadsfor future use, and to all except defaulters I give a present of 2dotis, and a handful of beads each. I have diminished the loadsconsiderably, which pleases them much. We have now 3-1/2 loads ofcalico, and 120 bags of beads. Several go idle, but have to do any oddwork, such as helping the sick or anything they are ordered to do. Igave the two Nassickers who lost the cow and calf only 1 doti, they wereworth 14 dotis. One of our men is behind, sick with dysentery. I amobliged to leave him, but have sent for him twice, and have given himcloth and beads. 

_24th November, 1872. _--Left Kampamba's to-day, and cross a meadow S. E. Of the village in which the River Muanani rises. It flows into theKapondosi and so on to the Lake. We made good way with Kiteneka as ourguide, who formerly accompanied Kampamba and ourselves to Liemba. Wewent over a flat country once covered with trees, but now these have allbeen cut down, say 4 to 5 feet from the ground, most likely forclearing, as the reddish soil is very fertile. Long lines of hills ofdenudation are in the distance, all directed to the Lake. 

We came at last to Kasonso's successor's village on the River Molulwé, which is, say, thirty yards wide, and thigh deep. It goes to the Lofu. The chief here gave a sheep--a welcome present, for I was out of fleshfor four days. Kampamba is stingy as compared with his father. 

_25th November, 1872. _--We came in an hour's march to a rivulet calledthe Casembe--the departed Kasonso lived here. The stream is very deep, and flows slowly to the Lofu. Our path lay through much pollardedforest, troublesome to walk in, as the stumps send out leafy shoots. 

_26th November, 1872. _--Started at daybreak. The grass was loaded withdew, and a heavy mist hung over everything. Passed two villages ofpeople come out to cultivate this very fertile soil, which they manureby burning branches of trees. The Rivulet Loela flows here, and is alsoa tributary of the Lofu. 

_27th November, 1872. _--As it is Sunday we stay here at N'dari'svillage, for we shall be in an uninhabited track to-morrow, beyond theLofu. The headman cooked six messes for us and begged us to remain formore food, which we buy. He gave us a handsome present of flour and afowl, for which I return him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain andhigh gusts of wind, which wet us all. 

_28th November, 1872. _--We came to the River Lofu in a mile. It issixty feet across and very deep. We made a bridge, and cut the banksdown, so that the donkey and cattle could pass over. It took us twohours, during which time we hauled them all across with a rope. We werehere misled by our guide, who took us across a marsh covered with tuftsof grass, but with deep water between that never dries; there is a pathwhich goes round it. We came to another village with a river which mustbe crossed--no stockade here, and the chief allowed us to camp in histown. There are long low lines of hills all about. A man came to thebridge to ask for toll-fee: as it was composed of one stick only, andunfit for our use because rotten, I agreed to pay provided he made itfit for our large company; but if I re-made and enlarged it, I said heought to give me a goat for the labour. He slunk away, and we laid largetrees across, where previously there was but one rotten pole. 

_29th November, 1872. _--Crossed the Loozi in two branches, and climbedup the gentle ascent of Malembé to the village of Chiwé, whom I formerlycalled Chibwé, being misled by the Yao tongue. Ilamba is the name of therill at his place. The Loozi's two branches were waist deep. The firstwas crossed by a natural bridge of a fig-tree growing across. It runsinto the Lofu, which river rises in Isunga country at a mountain calledKwitetté. The Chambezé rises east of this, and at the same place asLouzua. 

Chiwé presented a small goat with crooked legs and some millet flour, but he grumbled at the size of the fathom cloth I gave. I offeredanother fathom, and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this too, and sent it back. On this I returned his goat and marched. 

[The road lay through the same country among low hills, for severalmiles, till they came on the _1st December_ to a rivulet called LovuKatanta, where curiously enough they found a nutmeg-tree in fullbearing. A wild species is found at Angola on the West Coast and it wasprobably of this description, and not the same species as that which iscultivated in the East. In two places he says:--]

Who planted the nutmeg-tree on the Katanta?

[Passing on with heavy rain pouring down, they now found themselves inthe Wemba country, the low tree-covered hills exhibiting here and there"fine-grained schist and igneous rocks of red, white, and greencolour. "]

_3rd December, 1872. _--No food to be got on account of M'toka's and TipoTipo's raids. 

A stupid or perverse guide took us away to-day N. W. Or W. N. W. Thevillagers refused to lead us to Chipwité's, where food was to be had; heis S. W. 1-1/2 day off. The guide had us at his mercy, for he said, "Ifyou go S. W. You will be five days without food or people. " We crossedthe Kañomba, fifteen yards wide, and knee deep. Here our guidedisappeared, and so did the path. We crossed the Lampussi twice; it isforty yards wide, and knee deep; our course is W. N. W. For about 4-1/2hours to-day. We camped and sent men to search for a village that hasfood. My third barometer (aneroid) is incurably injured by a fall, theman who carried it slipped upon a clayey path. 

_4th December, 1872. _--Waiting for the return of our men in a greenwooded valley on the Lampussi River. Those who were sent yesterdayreturn without anything; they were directed falsely by the countrypeople, where nought could be bought. The people themselves are livingon grubs, roots, and fruits. The young plasterer Sphex is very fat oncoming out of its clay house, and a good relish for food. A man came tous demanding his wife and child; they are probably in hiding; the slavesof Tipo Tipo have been capturing people. One sinner destroyeth muchgood!

_5th December, 1872. _--The people eat mushrooms and leaves. My menreturned about 5 P. M. With two of Kafimbé's men bringing a present offood to me. A little was bought, and we go on to-morrow to sleep twonights on the way, and so to Kafimbé, who is a brother of Nsama's, andfights him. 

_6th December, 1872. _--We cross the Lampussi again, and up to a mountainalong which we go, and then down to some ruins. This took us five hours, and then with 2-1/4 more hours we reach Sintila. We hasten along as fastas hungry men (four of them sick) can go to get food. 

_1th December, 1872. _--Off at 6. 15 A. M. A leopard broke in upon us lastnight and bit a woman. She screamed, and so did the donkey, and it ranoff. Our course lay along between two ranges of low hills, then, wherethey ended, we went by a good-sized stream thirty yards or so across, and then down into a valley to Kafimbé's. 

_8th December, 1872. _--Very heavy rains. I visited Kafimbé. He is anintelligent and pleasant young man, who has been attacked several timesby Kitandula, the successor of Nsama of Itawa, and compelled to shiftfrom Motononga to this rivulet Motosi, which flows into the Kisi andthence into Lake Moero. 

_9th December, 1872. _--Send off men to a distance for food, and wait ofcourse. Here there is none for either love or money. To-day a man camefrom the Arab party at Kumba-Kumba's with a present of M'chelé and agoat. He reports that they have killed Casembe, whose people concealedfrom him the approach of the enemy till they were quite near. Having nostockade, he fell an easy prey to them. The conquerors put his head andall his ornaments on poles. His pretty wife escaped over Mofwé, and theslaves of the Arabs ran riot everywhere. We sent a return present of twodotis of cloth, one jorah of Kaniké, one doti of coloured cloth, threepounds of beads, and a paper of needles. 

_10th December, 1872. _--Left Kafimbé's. He gave us three men to take usinto Chama's village, and came a mile along the road with us. Our roadtook us by a winding course from one little deserted village to another. 

_11th December, 1872. _--Being far from water we went two hours across aplain dotted with villages to a muddy rivulet called the Mukubwé (itruns to Moero), where we found the village of a nephew of Nsama. Thisyoung fellow was very liberal in gifts of food, and in return I gave himtwo cloths. An Arab, Juma bin Seff, sent a goat to-day. They have beenriding it roughshod over all the inhabitants, and confess it. 

_12th December, 1872. _--Marenza sent a present of dura flour and a fowl, and asked for a little butter as a charm. He seems unwilling to give usa guide, though told by Kafimbé to do so. Many Garaganza about: theytrade in leglets, ivory, and slaves. We went on half-an-hour to theRiver Mokoé, which is thirty yards wide, and carries off much water intoMalunda, and so to Lake Moero. 

When palm-oil palms are cut down for toddy, they are allowed to liethree days, then the top shoot is cut off smoothly, and the toddy beginsto flow; and it flows for a month, or a month and a half or so, lying onthe soil. 

[The note made on the following day is written with a feeble hand, andscarce one pencilled word tallies with its neighbour in form ordistinctness--in fact, it is seen at a glance what exertion it cost himto write at all. He says no more than "Ill" in one place, but this isthe evident explanation; yet with the same painstaking determination ofold, the three rivers which they crossed have their names recorded, andthe hours of marching and the direction are all entered in his pocketbook. ]

_13th December, 1872. _--Westward about by south, and crossed a river, Mokobwé, thirty-five yards. Ill, and after going S. W. Camped in adeserted village, S. W. Travelling five hours. River Mekanda 2nd. Meñomba3, where we camp. 

_14th December, 1872. _--Guides turned N. W. To take us to a son ofNsama, and so play the usual present into his hands. I objected when Isaw their direction, but they said, "The path turns round in front. "After going a mile along the bank of the Meñomba, which has much water, Susi broke through and ran south, till he got a S. By W. Path, which wefollowed, and came to a village having plenty of food. As we have nowcamped in village, we sent the men off to recall the fugitive women, whotook us for Komba-Komba's men. Crossed the Luperé, which runs into theMakobwé. 

A leech crawling towards me in the village this morning elicited theBemba idea that they fall from the clouds or sky--"mulu. " It is calledhere "Mosunda a maluzé, " or leech of the rivers; "Luba" is the Zanzibarname. In one place I counted nineteen leeches in our path, in about amile; rain had fallen, and their appearance out of their hiding-placessuddenly after heavy rain may have given rise to the idea of their fallwith it as fishes do, and the thunder frog is supposed to do. Always toocloudy and rainy for observations of stars. 

_15th December, 1872. _--The country is now level, covered with treespollarded for clothing, and to make ashes of for manure. There are manydeserted villages, few birds. Cross the Eiver Lithabo, thirty yards wideand thigh deep, running fast to the S. W. , joined by a small one near. Reached village of Chipala, on the Rivulet Chikatula, which goes toMoipanza. The Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi by a S. W. Course. 

_16th December, 1872. _--Off at 6 A. M. Across the Chikatula, and inthree-quarters of an hour crossed the Lopanza, twelve yards wide andwaist deep, being now in flood. The Lolela was before us inhalf-an-hour, eight yards wide and thigh deep, both streams perennialand embowered in tall umbrageous trees that love wet; both flow to theKalongwesi. 

We came to quite a group of villages having food, and remain, as we gotonly driblets in the last two camps. Met two Banyamwezi carrying salt toLobemba, of Moambu. They went to Kabuiré for it, and now retail it onthe way back. 

At noon we got to the village of Kasiané, which is close to tworivulets, named Lopanza and Lolela. The headman, a relative of Nsama, brought me a large present of flour of dura, and I gave him two fathomsof calico. 

Floods by these sporadic rainfalls have discoloured waters, as seen inLopanza and Lolela to-day. The grass is all springing up quickly, andthe Maleza growing fast. The trees generally in full foliage. Differentshades of green, the dark prevailing; especially along rivulets, and thehills in the distance are covered with dark blue haze. Here, in Lobemba, they are gentle slopes of about 200 or 300 feet, and sandstone crops outover their tops. In some parts clay schists appear, which look as ifthey had been fused or were baked by intense heat. 

The pugnacious spirit is one of the necessities of life. When peoplehave little or none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. Myown men walk into houses where we pass the nights without asking anyleave, and steal cassava without shame. I have to threaten and thrash tokeep them honest, while if we are at a village where the natives are alittle pugnacious they are as meek as sucking doves. The peace planinvolves indignity and wrong. I give little presents to the headmen, andto some extent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is indeed muchappreciated, and produces profound hand-clapping. 

_17th December, 1872. _--It looked rainy, but we waited half-an-hour, andthen went on one hour and a half, when it set in and forced us to seekshelter in a village. The head of it was very civil, and gave us twobaskets of cassava, and one of dura. I gave a small present first. Thedistrict is called Kisinga, and flanks the Kalongwezé. 

_18th December, 1872. _--Over same flat pollarded forest until wereached the Kalongwesé Kiver on the right bank, and about a quarter of amile east of the confluence of the Luéna or Kisaka. This side of theriver is called Kisinga, the other is Chama's and Kisinga too. The Luenacomes from Jangé in Casembe's land, or W. S. W. Of this. The Kalongwesécomes from the S. E. Of this, and goes away N. W. The donkey sends a footevery now and then through the roof of cavities made apparently by ants, and sinks down 18 inches or more and nearly falls. These covered hollowsare right in the paths. 

_19th December, 1872. _--So cloudy and wet that no observations can betaken for latitude and longitude at this real geographical point. TheKalongwesé is sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards deep, about amile above the confluence of the Luéna. We crossed it in very smallcanoes, and swamped one twice, but no one was lost. Marched S. About1-1/4 hour. 

_20th December, 1872. _--Shut in by heavy clouds. Wait to see if it willclear up. Went on at 7. 15, drizzling as we came near the Mozumba orchiefs stockade. A son of Chama tried to mislead us by setting out west, but the path being grass-covered I objected, and soon came on to thelarge clear path. The guide ran off to report to the son, but we kept onour course, and he and the son followed us. We were met by a party, oneof whom tried to regale us by vociferous singing and trumpeting on anantelope's horn, but I declined the deafening honour. Had we sufferedthe misleading we should have come here to-morrow afternoon. 

A wet bed last night, for it was in the canoe that was upset. It was sorainy that there was no drying it. 

_21st December, 1872. _--Arrived at Chama's. Heavy clouds drifting past, and falling drizzle. Chama's brother tried to mislead us yesterday, inhopes of making us wander hopelessly and helplessly. Failing in this, from my refusal to follow a grass-covered path, he ran before us to thechief's stockade, and made all the women flee, which they did, leavingtheir chickens damless. We gave him two handsome cloths, one for himselfand one for Chama, and said we wanted food only, and would buy it. Theyare accustomed to the bullying of half-castes, who take what they likefor nothing. They are alarmed at our behaviour to-day, so we took quietpossession of the stockade, as the place that they put us in was on theopen defenceless plain. Seventeen human skulls ornament the stockade. They left their fowls, and pigeons. There was no bullying. Our womenwent in to grind food, and came out without any noise. This flight seemsto be caused by the foolish brother of the chief, and it is difficult toprevent stealing by my horde. The brother came drunk, and was taking offa large sheaf of arrows, when we scolded and prevented him. 

_22nd December, 1872. _--We crossed a rivulet at Chama's village tenyards wide and thigh deep, and afterwards in an hour and a half came toa sedgy stream which we could barely cross. We hauled a cow acrossbodily. Went on mainly south, and through much bracken. 

_23rd December, 1872. _--Off at 6 A. M. In a mist, and in an hour and aquarter came to three large villages by three rills called Misangwa, andmuch sponge; went on to other villages south, and a stockade. 

_24th December, 1872. _--Cloud in sky with drifting clouds from S. AndS. W. Very wet and drizzling. Sent back Chama's arrows, as his foolishbrother cannot use them against us now; there are 215 in the bundle. Passed the Lopopussi running west to the Lofubu about seven yards wide, it flows fast over rocks with heavy aquatic plants. The people are notafraid of us here as they were so distressingly elsewhere: we hope tobuy food here. 

_25th December, 1872, Christmas Day. _--I thank the good Lord for thegood gift of His Son Christ Jesus our Lord. Slaughtered an ox, and gavea fundo and a half to each of the party. This is our great day, so werest. It is cold and wet, day and night. The headman is gracious andgenerous, which is very pleasant compared with awe, awe, and refusing tosell, or stop to speak, or show the way. 

The White Nile carrying forward its large quasi-tidal wave presents amass of water to the Blue Nile, which acts as a buffer to its rapidflood. The White Nile being at a considerable height when the Bluerushes down its steep slopes, presents its brother Nile with a softcushion into which it plunges, and is restrained by the _vis inertiæ_ ofthe more slowly moving river, and, both united, pass on to form thegreat inundation of the year in Lower Egypt. The Blue River brings downthe heavier portion of the Nile deposit, while the White River comesdown with the black finely divided matter from thousands of square milesof forest in Manyuema, which probably gave the Nile its name, and is infact the real fertilizing ingredient in the mud that is annually left. Some of the rivers in Manyuema, as the Luia and Machila, are of inkyblackness, and make the whole main stream of a very Nilotic hue. Anacquaintance with these dark flowing rivers, and scores of rills ofwater tinged as dark as strong tea, was all my reward for plungingthrough the terrible Manyuema mud or "glaur. "

_26th December, 1872. _--Along among the usual low tree-covered hills ofred and yellow and green schists--paths wet and slippery. Came to theLofubu, fifteen yards broad and very deep, water clear, flowingnorth-west to join Luéna or Kisaka, as the Lopopussi goes west too intoLofubu it becomes large as we saw. We crossed by a bridge, and thedonkey swam with men on each side of him. We came to three villages onthe other side with many iron furnaces. Wet and drizzling weather madeus stop soon. A herd of buffaloes, scared by our party, rushed off andbroke the trees in their hurry, otherwise there is no game or marks ofgame visible. 

_27th December, 1872. _--Leave the villages on the Lofubu. A cascadecomes down on our left. The country undulating deeply, the hills, risingat times 300 to 400 feet, are covered with stunted wood. There is muchof the common bracken fern and hart's-tongue. We cross one rivuletrunning to the Lofubu, and camp by a blacksmith's rill in the jungle. Norain fell to-day for a wonder, but the lower tier of clouds still driftspast from N. W. 

I killed a Naia Hadje snake seven feet long here, he reared up before meand turned to fight. The under north-west stratum of clouds is composedof fluffy cottony masses, the edges spread out as if on an electricalmachine--the upper or south-east is of broad fields like striated cat'shair. The N. W. Flies quickly, the S. E. Slowly away where the others comefrom. No observations have been possible through most of this month. People assert that the new moon will bring drier weather, and the cloudsare preparing to change the N. W. Lower stratum into S. E. , ditto, ditto, and the N. W. Will be the upper tier. 

A man, ill and unable to come on, was left all night in the rain, without fire. We sent men back to carry him. Wet and cold. We areevidently ascending as we come near the Chambezé. The N. E. Clouds cameup this morning to meet the N. W. And thence the S. E. Came across as ifcombating the N. W. So as the new moon comes soon, it may be a realchange to drier weather. 

4 P. M. --The man carried in here is very ill; we must carry himto-morrow. 

_29th December, 1872. _--Our man Chipangawazi died last night and wasburied this morning. He was a quiet good man, his disease began atKampamba's. New moon last night. 

_29th, or 1st January, 1873. _--I am wrong two days. 

_29th December, 1872. _--After the burial and planting four branches ofMoriñga at the corners of the grave we went on southwards 3-1/4 hours toa river, the Luongo, running strongly west and south to the Luapula, then after one hour crossed it, twelve yards wide and waist deep. We meta man with four of his kindred stripping off bark to make bark-cloth: hegives me the above information about the Luongo. 

_1st January, 1873. (30th. )_--Came on at 6 A. M. Very cold. The rainshave ceased for a time. Arrive at the village of the man who met usyesterday. As we have been unable to buy food, through the illness anddeath of Chipangawazi, I camp here. 

_2nd January, 1873. _--Thursday--Wednesday was the 1st, I was two dayswrong. 

_3rd January, 1873. _--The villagers very anxious to take us to the westto Chikumbi's, but I refused to follow them, and we made our course tothe Luongo. Went into the forest south without a path for 1-1/2 hour, then through a flat forest, much fern and no game. We camped in theforest at the Situngula Rivulet. A little quiet rain through the night. A damp climate this--lichens on all the trees, even on those of 2 inchesdiameter. Our last cow died of injuries received in crossing the Lofubu. People buy it for food, so it is not an entire loss. 

_4th January, 1873. _--March south one hour to the Lopoposi or Lopopozistream of 25 or 30 feet, and now breast deep, flowing fast southwards tojoin the Chambezé. Camped at Ketebé's at 2 P. M. On the Rivulet Kizimaafter very heavy rain. 

_5th January, 1873. _--A woman of our party is very ill; she will requireto be carried to-morrow. 

_6th January, 1873. _--Ketebé or Kapesha very civil and generous. He sentthree men to guide us to his elder brother Chungu. The men drum and singharshly for him continually. I gave him half-a-pound of powder, and helay on his back rolling and clapping his hands, and all his menlulliloed; then he turned on his front, and did the same. The men arevery timid--no wonder, the Arab slaves do as they choose with them. Thewomen burst out through, the stockade in terror when my men broke intoa chorus as they were pitching my tent. Cold, cloudy, and drizzling. Much cultivation far from the stockades. 

The sponges here are now full and overflowing, from the continuous andheavy rains. Crops of mileza, maize, cassava, dura, tobacco, beans, ground-nuts, are growing finely. A border is made round each patch, manured by burning the hedge, and castor-oil plants, pumpkins, calabashes, are planted in it to spread out over the grass. 

_7th January, 1873. _--A cold rainy day keeps us in a poor village veryunwillingly. 3 P. M. Fair, after rain all the morning--on to the RivuletKamalopa, which runs to Kamolozzi and into Kapopozi. 

_8th January, 1873. _--Detained by heavy continuous rains in the villageMoenje. We are near Lake Bangweolo and in a damp region. Got off in theafternoon in a drizzle; crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep, and with large running sponges on each side; it is called the Kamalopa, then one hour beyond came to a sponge, and a sluggish rivulet 100 yardsbroad with broad sponges on either bank waist deep, and many leeches. Came on through flat forest as usual S. W. And S. 

[We may here call attention to the alteration of the face of the countryand the prominent notice of "sponges. " His men speak of the march fromthis point as one continual plunge in and out of morass, and throughrivers which were only distinguishable from the surrounding waters bytheir deep currents and the necessity for using canoes. To a man reducedin strength and chronically affected with dysenteric symptoms everlikely to be aggravated by exposure, the effect may be well conceived!It is probable that had Dr. Livingstone been at the head of a hundredpicked Europeans, every man would have been down within the nextfortnight. As it is, we cannot help thinking of his company offollowers, who must have been well led and under the most thoroughcontrol to endure these marches at all, for nothing cows the African somuch as rain. The next day's journey may be taken as a specimen of thehardships every one had to endure:--]

_9th January, 1873. _--Mosumba of Chungu. After an hour we crossed therivulet and sponge of Nkulumuna, 100 feet of rivulet and 200 yards offlood, besides some 200 yards of sponge full and running off; we then, after another hour, crossed the large rivulet Lopopozi by a bridge whichwas 45 feet long, and showed the deep water; then 100 yards of floodthigh deep, and 200 or 300 yards of sponge. After this we crossed tworills called Liñkanda and their sponges, the rills in flood 10 or 12feet broad and thigh deep. After crossing the last we came near theMosumba, and received a message to build our sheds in the forest, whichwe did. 

Chungu knows what a nuisance a Safari (caravan) makes itself. Cloudyday, and at noon heavy rain from N. W. The headman on receiving twocloths said he would converse about our food and show it to-morrow. Noobservations can be made, from clouds and rain. 

_10th January, 1873. _--Mosumba of Chungu. Rest to-day and get an insightinto the ford: cold rainy weather. When we prepared to visit Chungu, wereceived a message that he had gone to his plantations to get millet. Hethen sent for us at 1 P. M. To come, but on reaching the stockade weheard a great Kelélé, or uproar, and found it being shut from terror. Wespoke to the inmates but in vain, so we returned. Chungu says that weshould put his head on a pole like Casembe's! We shall go on without himto-morrow. The terror guns have inspired is extreme. 

_11th January, 1873. _--Chungu sent a goat and big basket of flour, andexcused his fears because guns had routed Casembe and his head was puton a pole; it was his young men that raised the noise. We remain to buyfood, as there is scarcity at Mombo, in front. Cold and rainy weather, never saw the like; but this is among the sponges of the Nile and nearthe northern shores of Bangweolo. 

_12th January, 1873. _--A dry day enabled us to move forward an hour to arivulet and sponge, but by ascending it we came to its head and walkedover dryshod, then one hour to another broad rivulet--Pinda, sluggish, and having 100 yards of sponge on each side. This had a stockadedvillage, and the men in terror shut the gates. Our men climbed over andopened them, but I gave the order to move forward through flat foresttill we came to a running rivulet of about twenty feet, but with 100yards of sponge on each side. The white sand had come out as usual andformed the bottom. Here we entered a village to pass the night. Wepassed mines of fine black iron ore ("motapo"); it is magnetic. 

_13th January, 1873. _--Storm-stayed by rain and cold at the village onthe Rivulet Kalambosi, near the Chambezé. Never was in such a spell ofcold rainy weather except in going to Loanda in 1853. Sent back forfood. 

_14th January, 1873. _--Went on dry S. E. And then S. Two hours to RiverMozinga, and marched parallel to it till we came to the confluence ofKasié. Mosinga, 25 feet, waist deep, with 150 yards of sponge on rightbank and about 50 yards on left. There are many plots of cassava, maize, millet, dura, ground-nuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded withstrong high hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood ashes. Thevillagers are much afraid of us. After 4-1/2 hours we were brought up bythe deep rivulet Mpanda, to be crossed to-morrow in canoes. There aremany flowers in the forest: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking flowerwithout smell, many orchids, white, yellow, and pink Asclepias, withbunches of French-white flowers, clematis--_Methonica gloriosa_, gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starryseed-vessels, and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides thesethere are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of prettydelicate form and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams, compositæ of blood-red colour and of purple; other flowers of livercolour, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly covered allround, and of three inches in length; spiderworts of fine blue or yellowor even pink. Different coloured asclepedials; beautiful yellow and redumbelliferous flowering plants; dill and wild parsnips; pretty floweryaloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many otherflowering plants which I do not know. Very few birds or any kind ofgame. The people are Babisa, who have fled from the west and are busycatching fish in basket traps. 

_15th January, 1873. _--Found that Chungu had let us go astray towardsthe Lake, and into an angle formed by the Mpandé and Lopopussi, and theLake-full of rivulets which are crossed with canoes. Chisupa, a headmanon the other side of the Mpanda, sent a present and denounced Chungu forheartlessness. We explained to one man our change of route and wentfirst N. E. , then E. To the Monsinga, which we forded again at a deepplace full of holes and rust-of-iron water, in which we floundered over300 yards. We crossed a sponge thigh deep before we came to the Mosinga, then on in flat forest to a stockaded village; the whole march abouteast for six hours. 

_16th January, 1873. _--Away north-east and north to get out of the manyrivulets near the Lake back to the River Lopopussi, which now loomslarge, and must be crossed in canoes. We have to wait in a village tillthese are brought, and have only got 1-3/4 hour nearly north. 

We were treated scurvily by Chungu. He knew that we were near theChambezé, but hid the knowledge and himself too. It is terror of guns. 

_17th January, 1873. _--We are troubled for want of canoes, but have totreat gently with the owners, otherwise they would all run away, asthey have around Chungu's, in the belief that we should return to punishtheir silly headman. By waiting patiently yesterday, we drew abouttwenty canoes towards us this morning, but all too small for the donkey, so we had to turn away back north-west to the bridge above Chungu's. Ifwe had tried to swim the donkey across alongside a canoe it would havebeen terribly strained, as the Lopopussi is here quite two miles wideand full of rushes, except in the main stream. It is all deep, and thecountry being very level as the rivulets come near to the Lake, theybecome very broad. Crossed two sponges with rivulets in their centre. 

Much cultivation in the forest. In the second year the mileza and maizeare sickly and yellow white; in the first year, with fresh wood ashes, they are dark green and strong. Very much of the forest falls formanure. The people seem very eager cultivators. Possibly mounds have thepotash brought up in forming. 

_18th January, 1873. _--We lost a week by going to Chungu (a worthlessterrified headman), and came back to the ford of Lopopussi, which wecrossed, only from believing him to be an influential man who wouldexplain the country to us. We came up the Lopopussi three hoursyesterday, after spending two hours in going down to examine the canoes. We hear that Sayde bin Ali is returning from Katanga with much ivory. 

_19th January, 1873. _--After prayers we went on to a fine village, andon from it to the Mononsé, which, though only ten feet of deep streamflowing S. , had some 400 yards of most fatiguing, plunging, deep sponge, which lay in a mass of dark-coloured rushes, that looked as if burntoff: many leeches plagued us. We were now two hours out. We went on twomiles to another sponge and village, but went round its head dryshod, then two hours more to sponge Lovu. Flat forest as usual. 

_20th January, 1873. _--Tried to observe lunars in vain; clouded overall, thick and muggy. Came on disappointed and along the Lovu 1-1/2mile. Crossed it by a felled tree lying over it. It is about six feetdeep, with 150 yards of sponge. Marched about 2-1/2 hours: veryunsatisfactory progress. 

[In answer to a question as to whether Dr. Livingstone could possiblymanage to wade so much, Susi says that he was carried across thesesponges and the rivulets on the shoulders of Chowpéré or Chumah. ]

_21st January, 1873. _--Fundi lost himself yesterday, and we looked outfor him. He came at noon, having wandered in the eager pursuit of twoherds of eland; having seen no game for a long time, he lost himself inthe eager hope of getting one. We went on 2-1/2 hours, and were broughtup by the River Malalanzi, which is about 15 feet wide, waist deep, andhas 300 yards or more of sponge. Guides refused to come as Chituñkùe, their headman, did not own them. We started alone: a man came after usand tried to mislead us in vain. 

_22nd January, 1873. _--We pushed on through many deserted gardens andvillages, the man evidently sent to lead us astray from our S. E. Course;he turned back when he saw that we refused his artifice. Crossed anotherrivulet, possibly the Lofu, now broad and deep, and then came to anotherof several deep streams but sponge, not more than fifty feet in all. Here we remained, having travelled in fine drizzling rain all themorning. Population all gone from the war of Chitoka with thisChituñkùe. 

No astronomical observations worth naming during December and January;impossible to take any, owing to clouds and rain. 

It is trying beyond measure to be baffled by the natives lying andmisleading us wherever they can. They fear us very, greatly, and with aterror that would gratify an anthropologist's heart. Theirunfriendliness is made more trying by our being totally unable toobserve for our position. It is either densely clouded, or continuallyraining day and night. The country is covered with brackens, andrivulets occur at least one every hour of the march. These are now deep, and have a broad selvage of sponge. The lower stratum of clouds movesquickly from the N. W. ; the upper move slowly from S. E. , and tell of rainnear. 

_23rd January, 1873. _--We have to send back to villages of Chituñkùe tobuy food. It was not reported to me that the country in front wasdepopulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where weare, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so, though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tiredon this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keepeverything and every place wet and sloppy. 

Our people return with a wretched present from Chituñkùe; bad flour anda fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitantdemand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, andmust plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from thenumerous streams. 

_24th January, 1873. _--Went on E. And N. E. To avoid the deep part of alarge river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chiefwould certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large streamthrough drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedgesand sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, andthe water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, thencame on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep, bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deepsedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was atleast 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the mainstream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One heldup my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when hesank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, soas to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Otherswent on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side ofthe elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clearstream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong currentcame bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had thefirst spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, thenAmoda, then Chanda, then Wadé Salé, and each time I was lifted offbodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fiftyyards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folkof our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over, and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water wascold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hastenon the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rainthreatened us. After 4 P. M. It came on a pouring cold rain, when we wereall under cover. We are anxious about food. The Lake is near, but we arenot sure of provisions, as there have been changes of population. Ourprogress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather, truly, and no observations, except that the land near the Lake being verylevel, the rivers spread out into broad friths and sponges. The streamsare so numerous that there has been a scarcity of names. Here we haveLoon and Luéna. We had two Loous before, and another Luena. 

_25th January, 1873. _--Kept in by rain. A man from Unyanyembé joined usthis morning. He says that he was left sick. Rivulets and sponges again, and through flat forest, where, as usual, we can see the slope of theland by the leaves being washed into heaps in the direction which thewater in the paths wished to take. One and a half hours more, and thento the River Loou, a large stream with bridge destroyed. Sent to makerepairs before we go over it, and then passed. The river is deep, andflows fast to the S. W. , having about 200 yards of safe flood flowing inlong grass--clear water. The men built their huts, and had their campready by 3 P. M. A good day's work, not hindered by rain. The country alldepopulated, so we can buy nothing. Elephants and antelopes have beenhere lately. 

_26th January, 1873. _--I arranged to go to our next River Luena, andascend it till we found it small enough for crossing, as it has much"Tinga-tinga, " or yielding spongy soil; but another plan was formed bynight, and we were requested to go down the Loou. Not wishing to appearoverbearing, I consented until we were, after two hours' southing, brought up by several miles of Tinga-tinga. The people in a fishingvillage ran away from us, and we had to wait for some sick ones. Thewomen are collecting mushrooms. A man came near us, but positivelyrefused to guide us to Matipa, or anywhere else. 

The sick people compelled us to make an early halt. 

_27th January, 1873. _--On again through streams, over sponges andrivulets thigh deep. There are marks of gnu and buffalo. I lose muchblood, but it is a safety-valve for me, and I have no fever or otherailments. 

_28th January, 1873. _--A dreary wet morning, and no food that we know ofnear. It is drop, drop, drop, and drizzling from the north-west. Wekilled our last calf but one last night to give each a mouthful. At 9. 30we were allowed by the rain to leave our camp, and march S. E. For twohours to a strong deep rivulet ten feet broad only, but waist deep, and150 yards of flood all deep too. Sponge about forty yards in all, andrunning fast out. Camped by a broad prairie or Bouga. 

_29th January, 1873. _--No rain in the night, for a wonder. We tramped1-1/4 hour to a broad sponge, having at least 300 yards of flood, andclear water flowing S. W. , but no usual stream. All was stream flowingthrough the rushes, knee and thigh deep. On still with the same, repeated again and again, till we came to broad branching sponges, atwhich I resolved to send out scouts S. , S. E. , and S. W. The music of thesinging birds, the music of the turtle doves, the screaming of thefrankolin proclaim man to be near. 

_30th January, 1873. _--Remain waiting for the scouts. Manuasera returnedat dark, having gone about eight hours south, and seen the Lake and twoislets. Smoke now appeared in the distance, so he turned, and the restwent on to buy food where the smoke was. Wet evening. 

FOOTNOTES:

[26] Bangé or hemp in time produces partial idiotcy if smoked inexcess. It is used amongst all the Interior tribes. 

[27] Isaiah i. 8. 

CHAPTER XI. 

 Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations. Obliged to return to Chituñkuè's. At the chief's mercy. Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march. Robbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubwé. An ant raid. Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. Ill. Susi and Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambezé. The River Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water. A disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone. 

_1st February, 1873. _--Waiting for the scouts. They returnunsuccessful--forced to do so by hunger. They saw a very large riverflowing into the Lake, but did not come across a single soul. Killed ourlast calf, and turn back for four hard days' travel to Chituñkuè's. Isend men on before us to bring food back towards us. 

_2nd February, 1873. _--March smartly back to our camp of 28th ult. Thepeople bear their hunger well. They collect mushrooms and plants, andoften get lost in this flat featureless country. 

_3rd February, 1873. _--Return march to our bridge on the Lofu, fivehours. In going we went astray, and took six hours to do the work offive. Tried lunars in vain. Either sun or moon in clouds. On the Luéna. 

_4th February, 1873. _--Return to camp on the rivulet with much_Methonica gloriosa_ on its banks. Our camp being on its left bank of26th. It took long to cross the next river, probably the Kwalé, thoughthe elephants' footprints are all filled up now. Camp among desertedgardens, which afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet potatoes. The men who were sent on before us slept here last night, and havedeceived us by going more slowly without loads than we who are loaded. 

_5th February, 1873. _--Arrived at Chituñkuè's, crossing two broad deepbrooks, and on to the Malalenzi, now swollen, having at least 200 yardsof flood and more than 300 yards of sponge. Saluted by a drizzlingshower. We are now at Chituñkuè's mercy. 

We find the chief more civil than we expected. He said each chief hadhis own land and his own peculiarities. He was not responsible forothers. We were told that we had been near to Matipa and other chiefs:he would give us guides if we gave him a cloth and some powder. 

We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through muchdeep water. Our scouts played us false both in time and beads: theheadmen punished them. I got lunars, for a wonder. Visited Chitunkubwé, as his name properly is. He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a Europeancast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly. I gave him twocloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides toMatipa's. He showed me two of Matipa's men who had heard us firing gunsto attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us. Itseems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it. Wehave lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to theunfriendliness of some and the fears of all. I begged for a morenortherly path, where the water is low. It is impossible to describethe amount of water near the Lake. Rivulets without number. They are sodeep as to damp all ardour. I passed a very large striped spider ingoing to visit Chitunkubwé. The stripes were of yellowish green, and ithad two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those ofthe redheaded white ant. It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with alight-coloured head, not seen elsewhere. A man killed it, and all thenatives said that it was most dangerous. We passed gardens of dura;leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured. 

_6th February, 1873. _--Chitunkubwé gave a small goat and a large basketof flour as a return present. I gave him three-quarters of a pound ofpowder, in addition to the cloth. 

_7th February, 1873. _--This chief showed his leanings by demandingprepayment for his guides. This being a preparatory step to theirdesertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words;he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he. We take this forwhat it is worth. He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits usthis afternoon. 

_8th February, 1873. _--The chief dawdles, although he promised greatthings yesterday. He places the blame on his people, who did not preparefood on account of the rain. Time is of no value to them. We have toremain over to-day. It is most trying to have to wait on frivolouspretences. I have endured such vexatious delays. The guides came at lastwith quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people onthe way. A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near mycamp. 

_9th February, 1873. _--Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village. Rankvegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively. Crossed asponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwalé Eiver, thenby a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a waterrunning strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here, but very much broader below. After this we passed two more rills and theRiver Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one. The humanticks called "papasi" by the Suaheli, and "karapatos" by the Portuguese, made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity. 

_10th February, 1873. _--Back again to our old camp on the Lovu or Lofuby the bridge. We left in a drizzle, which continued from 4 A. M. To 1P. M. We were three hours in it, and all wetted, just on reaching camp by200 yards, of flood mid-deep; but we have food. 

_11th February, 1873. _--Our guides took us across country, where we sawtracks of buffaloes, and in a meadow, the head of a sponge, we saw aherd of Hartebeests. A drizzly night was followed by a morning of coldwet fog, but in three hours we reached our old camp: it took us sixhours to do this distance before, and five on our return. We camped on adeep bridged stream, called the Kiachibwé. 

_12th February, 1873. _--We crossed the Kasoso, which joins the Mokisya, a river we afterwards crossed: it flows N. W. , then over the Mofungwé. The same sponges everywhere. 

_13th February, 1873. _--In four hours we came within sight of the Luénaand Lake, and saw plenty of elephants and other game, but very shy. Theforest trees are larger. The guides are more at a loss than we are, asthey always go in canoes in the flat rivers and rivulets. Went E. , thenS. E. Round to S. 

_14th February, 1873. _--Public punishment to Chirango for stealingbeads, fifteen cuts; diminished his load to 40 lbs. , giving him blue andwhite beads to be strung. The water stands so high in the paths that Icannot walk dryshod, and I found in the large bougas or prairies infront, that it lay knee deep, so I sent on two men to go to the firstvillages of Matipa for large canoes to navigate the Lake, or give us aguide to go east to the Chambezé, to go round on foot. It was Halimawho informed on Chirango, as he offered her beads for a cloth of a kindwhich she knew had not hitherto been taken out of the baggage. This wasso far faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I remainbecause of an excessive hæmorrhagic discharge. 

[We cannot but believe Livingstone saw great danger in these constantrecurrences of his old disorder: we find a trace of it in the solemnreflections which he wrote in his pocket-book, immediately under theabove words:--]

If the good Lord gives me favour, and permits me to finish my work, Ishall thank and bless Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, andtravel; this trip has made my hair all grey. 

_15th February, 1873, Sunday. _--Service. Killed our last goat whilewaiting for messengers to return from Matipa's. Evening: the messengercame back, having been foiled by deep tinga-tinga and bouga. He firedhis gun three times, but no answer came, so as he had slept one nightaway he turned, but found some men hunting, whom he brought with him. They say that Matipa is on Chirubé islet, a good man too, but far offfrom this. 

_16th February, 1873. _--Sent men by the hunter's canoe to Chirubé, witha request to Matipa to convey us west if he has canoes, but, if not, totell us truly, and we will go east and cross the Chambezé where it issmall. Chitunkubwé's men ran away, refusing to wait till we hadcommunicated with Matipa. Here the water stands underground abouteighteen inches from the surface. The guides played us false, and thisis why they escaped. 

_17th February, 1873. _--The men will return to-morrow, but they have togo all the way out to the islet of Chirubé to Matipa's. 

Suffered a furious attack at midnight from the red Sirafu or Driverants. Our cook fled first at their onset. I lighted a candle, andremembering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no animal will attack manunprovoked, I lay still. The first came on my foot quietly, then somebegan to bite between the toes, then the larger ones swarmed over thefoot and bit furiously, and made the blood start out. I then went out ofthe tent, and my whole person was instantly covered as close assmall-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires were lighted, and mymen picked some off my limbs and tried to save me. After battling for anhour or two they took me into a hut not yet invaded, and I rested tillthey came, the pests, and routed me out there too! Then came on a steadypour of rain, which held on till noon, as if trying to make usmiserable. At 9 A. M. I got back into my tent. The large Sirafu havemandibles curved like reaping-sickles, and very sharp--as fine at thepoint as the finest needle or a bee's sting. Their office is to removeall animal refuse, cockroaches, &c. , and they took all my fat. Theirappearance sets every cockroach in a flurry, and all ants, white andblack, get into a panic. On man they insert the sharp curved mandibles, and then with six legs push their bodies round so as to force the pointsby lever power. They collect in masses in their runs and stand withmandibles extended, as if defying attack. The large ones stand thus atbay whilst the youngsters hollow out a run half an inch wide, and aboutan inch deep. They remained with us till late in the afternoon, and weput hot ashes on the defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits oftheir raid, and come out fresh another day. 

_18th February, 1873. _--We wait hungry and cold for the return of themen who have gone to Matipa, and hope the good Lord will grant usinfluence with this man. 

Our men have returned to-day, having obeyed the native who told them tosleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believedthat the islet Chirubé was too far off, and returned with a most lamestory. We shall make the best of it by going N. W. , to be near the isletsand buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us byfair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of memakes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole populationkindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hearthat we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we arefair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that theywould never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, norhas it been my practice, to go as if "my back were up. "

_19th February, 1873. _--A cold wet morning keeps us in thisuncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to benear an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, areextortionate. We went on at 9 A. M. Over an extensive water-coveredplain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we wentwestward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. For threehours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then nearenough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four, five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and twolotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grassand were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village ofMatipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; butall is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a fewislets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us fromthe N. W. All the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eatinga species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey isfond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seedeaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are hisdainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A largeparty in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager forcalico, though they have only raw cassava to offer. They are clothed inbark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in anydirection, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below. 

_20th February, 1873. _--I sent a request to a friendly man to give memen, and a large canoe to go myself to Matipa; he says that he will letme know to-day if he can. Heavy rain by night and drizzling by day. Nodefinite answer yet, but we are getting food, and Matipa will soon hearof us as he did when we came and returned back for food. I engagedanother man to send a canoe to Matipa, and I showed him his payment, butretain it here till he comes back. 

_21st February, 1873. _--The men engaged refuse to go to Matipa's, theyhave no honour. It is so wet we can do nothing. Another man spoken toabout going, says that they run the risk of being killed by some hostilepeople on another island between this and Matipa's. 

_22nd February, 1873. _--A wet morning. I was ill all yesterday, butescape fever by hæmorrhage. A heavy mantle of N. W. Clouds came floatingover us daily. No astronomical observation can possibly be taken. I wasnever in such misty cloudy weather in Africa. A man turned up at 9 A. M. To carry our message to Matipa; Susi and Chumah went with him. The goodLord go with them, and lend me influence and grant me help. 

_23rd February, 1873, Sunday. _--Service. Rainy. 

_24th February, 1873. _--Tried hard for a lunar, but the moon was lost inthe glare of the sun. 

_25th February, 1873. _--For a wonder it did not rain till 4 P. M. Thepeople bring food, but hold out for cloth, which is inconvenient. 

Susi and Chumah not appearing may mean that the men are preparing canoesand food to transport us. 

_25th February, 1873. _--Susi returned this morning with good news fromMatipa, who declares his willingness to carry us to Kabendé for the fivebundles of brass wire I offered. It is not on Chirubé, but amid theswamps of the mainland on the Lake's north side. Immense swampy plainsall around except at Kabendé. Matipa is at variance with his brothers onthe subject of the lordship of the lands and the produce of theelephants, which are very numerous. I am devoutly thankful to the Giverof all for favouring me so far, and hope that He may continue His kindaid. 

No mosquitoes here, though Speke, at the Victoria Nyanza, said theycovered the bushes and grass in myriads, and struck against the handsand face most disagreeably. 

_27th February, 1873. _--Waiting for other canoes to be sent by Matipa. His men say that there is but one large river on the south of LakeBangweolo, and called Luomba. They know the mountains on the south-eastas I do, and on the west, but say they don't know any on the middle ofthe watershed. They plead their youth as an excuse for knowing solittle. 

Matipa's men proposed to take half our men, but I refused to divide ourforce; they say that Matipa is truthful. 

_28th February, 1873. _--No night rain after 8 P. M. , for a wonder. Bakerhad 1500 men in health on 15th June, 1870, at lat. 9° 26' N. , and 160 onsick list; many dead. Liberated 305 slaves. His fleet was thirty-twovessels; wife and he well. I wish that I met him. Matipa's men nothaving come, it is said they are employed bringing the carcase of anelephant to him. I propose to go near to him to-morrow, some in canoesand some on foot. The good Lord help me. New moon this evening. 

_1st March, 1873. _--Embarked women and goods in canoes, and went threehours S. E. To Bangweolo. Stopped on an island where people were dryingfish over fires. Heavy rain wetted us all as we came near the islet, thedrops were as large as half-crowns by the marks they made. We went overflooded prairie four feet deep, and covered with rushes, and twovarieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and so are papyrus. The buffaloes are at a loss in the water. Three canoes are behind. Themen are great cowards. I took possession of all the paddles and puntingpoles, as the men showed an inclination to move off from our islet. Thewater in the country is prodigiously large: plains extending furtherthan the eye can reach have four or five feet of clear water, and theLake and adjacent lands for twenty or thirty miles are level. We are ona miserable dirty fishy island called Motovinza; all are damp. We aresurrounded by scores of miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotusplants, but no mosquitoes. 

_2nd March, 1873. _--It took us 7-1/2 hours' punting to bring us to anisland, and then the miserable weather rained constantly on our landinginto the Boma (stockade), which is well peopled. The prairie is tenhours long, or about thirty miles by punting. Matipa is on an islandtoo, with four bomas on it. A river, the Molonga, runs past it, and is aprotection. [28]

The men wear a curious head-dress of skin or hair, and large uprightears. 

_3rd March, 1873. _--Matipa paid off the men who brought us here. He saysthat five Sangos or coils (which brought us here) will do to take us toKabendé, and I sincerely hope that they will. His canoes are off, bringing the meat of an elephant. There are many dogs in the village, which they use in hunting to bring elephants to bay. I visited Matipa atnoon. He is an old man, slow of tongue, and self-possessed; herecommended our crossing to the south bank of the Lake to his brother, who has plenty of cattle, and to goalong that side where there are fewrivers and plenty to eat. Kabendé's land was lately overrun byBanyamwezi, who now inhabit that country, but as yet have no food tosell. Moanzabamba was the founder of the Babisa tribe, and used thecurious plaits of hair which form such a singular head-dress here likelarge ears. I am rather in a difficulty, as I fear I must give the fivecoils for a much shorter task; but it is best not to appear unfair, although I will be the loser. He sent a man to catch a Sampa for me, itis the largest fish in the Lake, and he promised to have men ready totake my men over to-morrow. Matipa never heard from any of the elders ofhis people that any of his forefathers ever saw a European. He knewperfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and mycoming to the islet Mpabala. No trace seems to exist of CaptainSingleton's march. [29] The native name of Pereira is "Moenda Mondo:" ofLacerda, "Charlie:" of Monteiro's party, "Makabalwé, " or the donkey men, but no other name is heard. The following is a small snatch of Babisalore. It was told by an old man who came to try for some beads, andseemed much interested about printing. He was asked if there were anymarks made on the rocks in any part of the country, and this led to hisstory. Lukerenga came from the west a long time ago to the RiverLualaba. He had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass over hethrew his mat on the water, and this served as a raft, and they crossedthe stream. When he reached the other side there were rocks at thelanding place, and the mark is still to be seen on the stone, not onlyof his foot, but of a stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of hisdog's feet; the name of the place is Uchéwa. 

_4th March, 1873. _--Sent canoes off to bring our men over tothe islandof Matipa. They brought ten, but the donkey could not come as farthrough the "tinga-tinga" as they, so they took it back for fear that itshould perish. I spoke to Matipa this morning to send more canoes, andhe consented. We move outside, as the town swarms with mice, and is veryclosely built and disagreeable. I found mosquitoes in the town. 

_5th March, 1873. _--Time runs on quickly. The real name of this islandis Masumbo, and the position may be probably long. 31° 3'; lat. 10° 11'S. Men not arrived yet. Matipa very slow. 

_6th March, 1873. _--Building a camp outside the town for quiet andcleanliness, and no mice to run over us at night. This islet is sometwenty or thirty feet above the general flat country and adjacent water. 

At 3 P. M. We moved up to the highest part of the island where we can seearound us and have the fresh breeze from the Lake. Rainy as we went up, as usual. 

_7th March, 1873. _--We expect our men to-day. I tremble for the donkey!Camp sweet and clean, but it, too, has mosquitoes, from which a curtainprotects me completely--a great luxury, but unknown to the Arabs, towhom I have spoken about it. Abed was overjoyed by one I made for him;others are used to their bites, as was the man who said that he wouldget used to a nail through the heel of his shoe. The men came at 3 P. M. , but eight had to remain, the canoes being too small. The donkey had tobe tied down, as he rolled about on his legs and would have forced hisway out. He bit Mabruki Speke's lame hand, and came in stiff from lyingtied all day. We had him shampooed all over, but he could not eatdura--he feels sore. Susi did well under the circumstances, and we hadplenty of flour ready for all. Chanza is near Kabinga, and this lastchief is coming to visit me in a day or two. 

_8th March, 1873. _--I press Matipa to get a fleet of canoes equal toour number, but he complains of their being stolen by rebel subjects. Hetells me his brother Kabinga would have been here some days ago but forhaving lost a son, who was killed by an elephant: he is mourning for himbut will come soon. Kabinga is on the other side of the Chambezé. Aparty of male and female drummers and dancers is sure to turn up atevery village; the first here had a leader that used such violent anticsperspiration ran off his whole frame. I gave a few strings of beads, andthe performance is repeated to-day by another lot, but I rebel and allowthem to dance unheeded. We got a sheep for a wonder for a doti; fowlsand fish alone could be bought, but Kabinga has plenty of cattle. 

[Illustration: Dr. Livingstone's Mosquito Curtain. ]

There is a species of carp with red ventral fin, which is caught andused in very large quantities: it is called "pumbo. " The people dry itover fires as preserved provisions. Sampa is the largest fish in theLake, it is caught by a hook. The Luéna goes into Bangweolo atMolandangao. A male Msobé had faint white stripes across the back andone well-marked yellow stripe along the spine. The hip had a few faintwhite spots, which showed by having longer hair than the rest; a kid ofthe same species had a white belly. 

The eight men came from Motovinza this afternoon, and now all our partyis united. The donkey shows many sores inflicted by the careless people, who think that force alone can be used to inferior animals. 

_11th March, 1873. _--Matipa says "Wait; Kabinga is coming, and he hascanoes. " Time is of no value to him. His wife is making him pombe, andwill drown all his cares, but mine increase and plague me. Matipa andhis wife each sent me a huge calabash of pombe; I wanted only a littleto make bread with. 

By putting leaven in a bottle and keeping it from one baking to another(or three days) good bread is made, and the dough being surrounded bybanana leaves or maize leaves (or even forest leaves of hard texture andno taste, or simply by broad leafy grass), is preserved from burning inan iron pot. The inside of the pot is greased, then the leaves put inall round, and the dough poured in to stand and rise in the sun. 

Better news comes: the son of Kabinga is to be here to-night, and weshall concoct plans together. 

_12th March, 1873. _--The news was false, no one came from Kabinga. Themen strung beads to-day, and I wrote part of my despatch for EarlGranville. 

_13th March, 1873. _--- I went to Matipa, and proposed to begin theembarkation of my men at once, as they are many, and the canoes are onlysufficient to take a few at a time. He has sent off a big canoe to reaphis millet, when it returns he will send us over to see for ourselveswhere we can go. I explained the danger of setting my men astray. 

_14th March, 1873. _--Rains have ceased for a few days. Went down toMatipa and tried to take his likeness for the sake of the curious hat hewears. 

_15th March, 1873. _--Finish my despatch so far. 

_16th March, 1873, Sunday. _--Service. I spoke sharply to Matipa for hisduplicity. He promises everything and does nothing: he has in fact nopower over his people. Matipa says that a large canoe will cometo-morrow, and next day men will go to Kabinga to reconnoitre. There maybe a hitch there which we did not take into account; Kabinga's son, killed by an elephant, may have raised complications: blame may beattached to Matipa, and in their dark minds it may appear all importantto settle the affair before having communication with him. Ill all daywith my old complaint. 

[Illustration: Matipa and his Wife. ]

_17th March, 1873. _--The delay is most trying. So many detentions haveoccurred they ought to have made me of a patient spirit. 

As I thought, Matipa told us to-day that it is reported he has someArabs with him who will attack all the Lake people forthwith, and he isanxious that we shall go over to show them that we are peaceful. 

_18th March, 1873. _--Sent off men to reconnoitre at Kabinga's and tomake a camp there. Rain began again after nine days' dry weather, N. W. Wind, but in the morning fleecy clouds came from S. E. In patches. Matipais acting the villain, and my men are afraid of him: they are allcowards, and say that they are afraid of me, but this is only an excusefor their cowardice. 

_19th March, 1873. _--Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparingme thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? Somany obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, Oh! my goodLord Jesus. [30]

8 A. M. Got about twenty people off to canoes. Matipa not friendly. Theygo over to Kabinga on S. W. Side of the Chambezé, and thence we gooverland. 9 A. M. Men came back and reported Matipa false again; only onecanoe had come. I made a demonstration by taking quiet possession of hisvillage and house; fired a pistol through the roof and called my men, ten being left to guard the camp; Matipa fled to another village. Thepeople sent off at once and brought three canoes, so at 11 A. M. My menembarked quietly. They go across the Chambezé and build a camp on itsleft bank. All Kabinga's cattle are kept on an island called Kalilo, near the mouth of the Chambezé, and are perfectly wild: they are driveninto the water like buffaloes, and pursued when one is wanted for meat. No milk is ever obtained of course. 

_20th March, 1873. _--Cold N. W. Weather, but the rainfall is small, asthe S. E. Stratum comes down below the N. W. By day. Matipa sent two largebaskets of flour (cassava), a sheep, and a cock. He hoped that we shouldremain with him till the water of the over-flood dried, and help him tofight his enemies, but I explained our delays, and our desire tocomplete our work and meet Baker. 

_21st March, 1873. _--Very heavy N. W. Rain and thunder by night, and bymorning. I gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire, and his wife a stringof large neck beads, and explained my hurry to be off. He is now allfair, and promises largely: he has been much frightened by our warlikedemonstration. I am glad I had to do nothing but make a show of force. 

_22nd March, 1873. _--Susi not returned from Kabinga. I hope that he isgetting canoes, and men also, to transport us all at one voyage. It isflood as far as the eye can reach; flood four and six feet deep, andmore, with three species of rushes, two kinds of lotus, or sacred lily, papyrus, arum, &c. One does not know where land ends, and Lake begins:the presence of land-grass proves that this is not always overflowed. 

_23rd March, 1873. _--Men returned at noon. Kabinga is mourning for hisson killed by an elephant, and keeps in seclusion. The camp is formed onthe left bank of the Chambezé. 

_24th March. _--The people took the canoes away, but in fear sent forthem. I got four, and started with all our goods, first giving a presentthat no blame should follow me. We punted six hours to a little isletwithout a tree, and no sooner did we land than a pitiless pelting raincame on. We turned up a canoe to get shelter. We shall reach theChambezé to-morrow. The wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damagedit too; the loads are all soaked, and with the cold it is bitterlyuncomfortable. A man put my bed into the bilge, and never said "Baleout, " so I was for a wet night, but it turned out better than Iexpected. No grass, but we made a bed of the loads, and a blanketfortunately put into a bag. 

_25th March, 1873. _--Nothing earthly will make me give up my work indespair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward. 

We got off from our miserably small islet of ten yards at 7 A. M. , agrassy sea on all sides, with a few islets in the far distance. Fourvarieties of rushes around us, triangular and fluted, rise from eighteeninches to two feet above the water. The caterpillars seem to eat eachother, and a web is made round others; the numerous spiders may havebeen the workmen of the nest. The wind on the rushes makes a sound likethe waves of the sea. The flood extends out in slightly depressed armsof the Lake for twenty or thirty miles, and far too broad to be seenacross; fish abound, and ant-hills alone lift up their heads; they havetrees on them. Lukutu flows from E. To W. To the Chambezé, as does theLubanseusi also. After another six hours' punting, over the samewearisome prairie or Bouga, we heard the merry voices of children. Itwas a large village, on a flat, which seems flooded at times, but muchcassava is planted on mounds, made to protect the plants from the water, which stood in places in the village, but we got a dry spot for thetent. The people offered us huts. We had as usual a smart shower on theway to Kasenga, where we slept. We passed the Islet Luangwa. 

_26th March, 1873. _--We started at 7. 30, and got into a large stream outof the Chambezé, called Mabziwa. One canoe sank in it, and we lost aslave girl of Amoda. Fished up three boxes, and two guns, but the boxesbeing full of cartridges were much injured; we lost the donkey's saddletoo. After this mishap we crossed the Lubanseusi, near its confluencewith the Chambezé, 300 yards wide and three fathoms deep, and a slowcurrent. We crossed the Chambezé. It is about 400 yards wide, with aquick clear current of two knots, and three fathoms deep, like theLubanseusé; but that was slow in current, but clear also. There is onegreat lock after another, with thick mats of hedges, formed of aquaticplants between. The volume of water is enormous. We punted five hours, and then camped. 

_27th March, 1873. _--I sent canoes and men back to Matipa's to bring allthe men that remained, telling them to ship them at once on arriving, and not to make any talk about it. Kabinga keeps his distance from us, and food is scarce; at noon he sent a man to salute me in his name. 

_28th March, 1873. _--Making a pad for a donkey, to serve instead of asaddle. Kabinga attempts to sell a sheep at an exorbitant price, andsays that he is weeping over his dead child. Mabruki Speke's hut caughtfire at night, and his cartridge box was burned. 

_29th March, 1873. _--I bought a sheep for 100 strings of beads. I wishedto begin the exchange by being generous, and told his messenger so; thena small quantity of maize was brought, and I grumbled at the meanness ofthe present: there is no use in being bashful, as they are not ashamedto grumble too. The man said that Kabinga would send more when he hadcollected it. 

_30th March, 1873, Sunday. _--A lion roars mightily. The fish-hawk uttershis weird voice in the morning, as if he lifted up to a friend at agreat distance, in a sort of falsetto key. 

5 P. M. Men returned, but the large canoe having been broken by thedonkey, we have to go back and pay for it, and take away about twentymen now left. Matipa kept all the payment from his own people, and soleft us in the lurch; thus another five days is lost. 

_31st March, 1873. _--I sent the men back to Matipa's for all our party. I give two dotis to repair the canoe. Islanders are always troublesome, from a sense of security in their fastnesses. Made stirrups of thickbrass wire four-fold; they promise to do well. Sent Kabinga a cloth, anda message, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa: we must take himas we find him, there is no use in growling. Seven of our men returned, having got a canoe from one of Matipa's men. Kabinga, it seems, waspleased with the cloth, and says that he will ask for maize from hispeople, and buy it for me; he has rice growing. He will send a canoe tocarry me over the next river. 

_3rd April, 1873. _--Very heavy rain last night. Six inches fell in ashort time. The men at last have come from Matipa's. 

_4th April, 1873. _--Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, and got a fat onefor 2-1/2 dotis, to give the party a feast ere we start. The kambarifish of the Chambezé is three feet three inches in length. 

Two others, the "polwé" and "lopatakwao, " all go up the Chambezé tospawn when the rains begin. Casembe's people make caviare of the spawnof the "pumbo. "

[The next entry is made in a new pocket-book, numbered XVII. For thefirst few days pen and ink were used, afterwards a well-worn stump ofpencil, stuck into a steel penholder and attached to a piece of bamboo, served his purpose. ]

_5th April, 1873. _--March from Kabinga's on the Chambezé, our luggage incanoes, and men on land. We punted on flood six feet deep, with manyant-hills all about, covered with trees. Course S. S. E. For five miles, across the River Lobingela, sluggish, and about 300 yards wide. 

_6th April, 1873. _--Leave in the same way, but men were sent fromKabinga to steal the canoes, which we paid his brother Mateysahandsomely for. A stupid drummer, beating the alarm in the distance, called us inland; we found the main body of our people had gone on, andso by this, our party got separated, [31] and we pulled and punted six orseven hours S. W. In great difficulty, as the fishermen we saw refused toshow us where the deep water lay. The whole country S. Of the Lake wascovered with water, thickly dotted over with lotus-leaves and rushes. Ithas a greenish appearance, and it might be well on a map to show thespaces annually flooded by a broad wavy band, twenty, thirty, and even, forty miles out from the permanent banks of the Lake: it might becoloured light green. The broad estuaries fifty or more miles, intowhich the rivers form themselves, might be coloured blue, but it isquite impossible at present to tell where land ends, and Lake begins; itis all water, water everywhere, which seems to be kept from flowingquickly off by the narrow bed of the Luapula, which has perpendicularbanks, worn deep down in new red sandstone. It is the Nile apparentlyenacting its inundations, even at its sources. The amount of waterspread out over the country constantly excites my wonder; it isprodigious. Many of the ant-hills are cultivated and covered with dura, pumpkins, beans, maize, but the waters yield food plenteously in fishand lotus-roots. A species of wild rice grows, but the people neitherneed it nor know it. A party of fishermen fled from us, but by coaxingwe got them to show us deep water. They then showed us an islet, aboutthirty yards square, without wood, and desired us to sleep there. Wewent on, and then they decamped. 

Pitiless pelting showers wetted everything; but near sunset we saw twofishermen paddling quickly off from an ant-hill, where we found a hut, plenty of fish, and some firewood. There we spent the night, and watchedby turns, lest thieves should come and haul away our canoes andgoods. Heavy rain. One canoe sank, wetting everything in her. The leaksin her had been stopped with clay, and a man sleeping near the stern haddisplaced this frail caulking. We did not touch the fish, and I cannotconjecture who has inspired fear in all the inhabitants. 

_7th April, 1873. _--Went on S. W. , and saw two men, who guided us to theRiver Muanakazi, which forms a connecting link between the RiverLotingila and the Lolotikila, about the southern borders of the flood. Men were hunting, and we passed near large herds of antelopes, whichmade a rushing, plunging sound as they ran and sprang away among thewaters. A lion had wandered into this world of water and ant-hills, androared night and morning, as if very much disgusted: we could sympathisewith him! Near to the Muanakazi, at a broad bank in shallow water nearthe river, we had to unload and haul. Our guides left us, well pleasedwith the payment we had given them. The natives beating a drum on oureast made us believe them to be our party, and some thought that theyheard two shots. This misled us, and we went towards the sound throughpapyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass, till tired out, and took refugeon an ant-hill for the night. Lion roaring. We were lost in stiff grassyprairies, from three to four feet deep in water, for five hours. Wefired a gun in the stillness of the night, but received no answer; so onthe _8th_ we sent a small canoe at daybreak to ask for information andguides from the village where the drums had been beaten. Two men came, and they thought likewise that our party was south-east; but in thatdirection the water was about fifteen inches in spots and three feet inothers, which caused constant dragging of the large canoe all day, andat last we unloaded at another branch of the Muanakazi with a village offriendly people. We slept there. 

All hands at the large canoe could move her only a few feet. Puttingall their strength to her, she stopped at every haul with a jerk, as ifin a bank of adhesive plaister. I measured the crown of a papyrus plantor palm, it was three feet across horizontally, its stalk eight feet inheight. Hundreds of a large dark-grey hairy caterpillar have nearlycleared off the rushes in spots, and now live on each other. They canmake only the smallest progress by swimming or rather wriggling in thewater: their motion is that of a watch-spring thrown down, dilating andcontracting. 

_9th April, 1873. _--After two hours' threading the very winding, deepchannel of this southern branch of the Muanakazi, we came to where ourland party had crossed it and gone on to Gandochité, a chief on theLolotikila. My men were all done up, so I hired a man to call some ofhis friends to take the loads; but he was stopped by his relations inthe way, saying, "You ought to have one of the traveller's own peoplewith you. " He returned, but did not tell us plainly or truly till thismorning. 

[The recent heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure and extremeanxiety and annoyance, no doubt brought on the severe attack which isnoticed, as we see in the words of the next few days. ]

_10th April, 1873. _--The headman of the village explained, and we senttwo of our men, who had a night's rest with the turnagain fellow ofyesterday. I am pale, bloodless, and; weak from bleeding profusely eversince the 31st of March last: an artery gives off a copious stream, andtakes away my strength. Oh, how I long to be permitted by the Over Powerto finish my work. 

_12th April, 1873. _--Cross the Muanakazi. It is about 100 or 130 yardsbroad, and deep. Great loss of _aíµa_ made me so weak I could hardlywalk, but tottered along nearly two hours, and then lay down quitedone. Cooked coffee--our last--and went on, but in an hour I wascompelled to lie down. Very unwilling to be carried, but on beingpressed I allowed the men to help me along by relays to Chinama, wherethere is much cultivation. We camped in a garden of dura. 

_13th April, 1873. _--Found that we had slept on the right bank of theLolotikila, a sluggish, marshy-looking river, very winding, but heregoing about south-west. The country is all so very flat that the riversdown here are of necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, andthe people civil and reasonable. They usually partake largely of thecharacter of the chief, and this one, Gondochité, is polite. The sky isclearing, and the S. E. Wind is the lower stratum now. It is the dryseason well begun. Seventy-three inches is a higher rainfall than hasbeen observed anywhere else, even in northern Manyuema; it was lower byinches than here far south on the watershed. In fact, this is the veryheaviest rainfall known in these latitudes; between fifty and sixty isthe maximum. 

One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees, occupyingquarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to bouga or prairieagain. The bouga is flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dryland grasses. Other bouga extend out from the Lake up to forty miles, and are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums, rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic subaqueousplants which send up their flowers only to fructify in the sun, and thensink to ripen one bunch after another. Others, with greatcabbage-looking leaves, seem to remain always at the bottom. The youngof fish swarm, and bob in and out from the leaves. A species of softmoss grows on most plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes, fitted by hooked or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws. 

One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a hook, whichenables the animal to hold its mouth close to the plant, as it glides upor down, sucking in all the soft pulpy food. The superabundance ofgelatinous nutriment makes these swarmers increase in bulk withextraordinary rapidity, and the food supply of the people is plenteousin consequence. The number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and netsnow, as the waters decline, is prodigious. The fish feel their elementbecoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to anothertowards the Lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared by weirs to takeadvantage of their necessities; the sun heat seems to oppress them andforce them to flee. With the south-east aerial current comes heat andsultriness. A blanket is scarcely needed till the early hours of themorning, and here, after the turtle doves and cocks give out theirwarning calls to the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkablevoice. It is pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as ifhe were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his weirdunearthly voice can never be forgotten--it sticks to one through life. 

We were four hours in being ferried over the Loitikila, or Lolotikila, in four small canoes, and then two hours south-west down its left bankto another river, where our camp has been formed. I sent over a presentto the headman, and a man returned with the information that he was illat another village, but his wife would send canoes to-morrow to transportus over and set us on our way to Muanazambamba, south-west, and overLolotikila again. 

_14th April, 1873. _--At a branch of the Lolotikila. 

_15th April, 1873. _--Cross Lolotikila again (where it is only fiftyyards) by canoes, and went south-west an hour. I, being very weak, hadto be carried part of the way. Am glad of resting; _aíµa_ flowcopiously last night. A woman, the wife of the chief, gave a present ofa goat and maize. 

_16th April, 1873. _--Went south-west two and a half hours, and crossedthe Lombatwa River of 100 yards in width, rush deep, and flowing fast inaquatic vegetation, papyrus, &c. , into the Loitikila. In all about threehours south-west. 

_17th April, 1873. _--A tremendous rain after dark burst all our nowrotten tents to shreds. Went on at 6. 35 A. M. For three hours, and I, whowas suffering severely all night, had to rest. We got water near thesurface by digging in yellow sand. Three hills now appear in thedistance. Our course, S. W. Three and three-quarter hours to a village onthe Kazya River. A Nyassa man declared that his father had brought theheavy rain of the 16th on us. We crossed three sponges. 

_18th April, 1873. _--On leaving the village on the Kazya, we forded itand found it seventy yards broad, waist to breast deep all over. A largeweir spanned it, and we went on the lower side of that. Much papyrus andother aquatic plants in it. Fish are returning now with the fallingwaters, and are guided into the rush-cones set for them. Crossed twolarge sponges, and I was forced to stop at a village after travellingS. W. For two hours: very ill all night, but remembered that the bleedingand most other ailments in this land are forms of fever. Took twoscruple doses of quinine, and stopped it quite. 

_19th April, 1873. _--A fine bracing S. E. Breeze kept me on the donkeyacross a broad sponge and over flats of white sandy soil and muchcultivation for an hour and a half, when we stopped at a large villageon the right bank of, [32] and men went over to the chief Muanzambamba toask canoes to cross to-morrow. I am excessively weak, and but for thedonkey could not move a hundred yards. It is not all pleasure thisexploration. The Lavusi hills are a relief tothe eye in this flatupland. Their forms show an igneous origin. The river Kazya comes fromthem and goes direct into the Lake. No observations now, owing to greatweakness; I can scarcely hold the pencil, and my stick is a burden. Tentgone; the men build a good hut for me and the luggage. S. W. One and ahalf hour. 

_20th April, 1873, Sunday. _--Service. Cross over the sponge, Moenda, forfood and to be near the headman of these parts, Moanzambamba. I amexcessively weak. Village on Moenda sponge, 7 A. M. Cross Lokulu in acanoe. The river is about thirty yards broad, very deep, and flowing inmarshes two knots from S. S. B. To N. N. W. Into Lake. 

FOOTNOTES:

[28] It will be observed that these islets were in reality slighteminences standing above water on the flooded plains which border onLake Bangweolo. The men say that the actual deep-water Lake lay awayto their right, and on being asked why Dr. Livingstone did not make ashort cut across to the southern shore, they explain that the canoescould not live for an hour on the Lake, but were merely suited forpunting about over the flooded land. --Ed. 

[29] Defoe's book, 'Adventures of Captain Singleton, ' is alluded to. It would almost appear as if Defoe must have come across some unknownAfrican traveller who gave him materials for this work. --Ed. 

[30] This was written on his last birthday. --ED. 

[31] Dr. Livingstone's object was to keep the land party marchingparallel to him whilst he kept nearer to the Lake in a canoe. --ED. 

[32] He leaves room for a name which perhaps in his exhausted state heforgot to ascertain. 

CHAPTER XII. 

 Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi and Chumah's additional details. Great agony in his last illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Mohlamo into the district of Ilala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone. Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart at Chitambo's in Ilala of the Wabisa. An inscription and memorial sign-posts left to denote spot. 

[We have now arrived at the last words written in Dr. Livingstone'sdiary: a copy of the two pages in his pocket-book which contains them is, by the help of photography, set before the reader. It is evident that hewas unable to do more than make the shortest memoranda, and to mark onthe map which he was making the streams which enter the Lake as hecrossed them. From the _22nd_ to the _27th_ April he had not strength towrite down anything but the several dates. Fortunately Susi and Chumahgive a very clear and circumstantial account of every incident whichoccurred on these days, and we shall therefore add what they say, aftereach of the Doctor's entries. He writes:--]

_21st April, 1873. _--Tried to ride, but was forced to lie down, and theycarried me back to vil. Exhausted. 

[The men explain this entry thus:--This morning the Doctor tried if hewere strong enough to ride on the donkey, but he had only gone a shortdistance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted and faint. Susiimmediately undid his belt and pistol, and picked up his cap which haddropped off, while Chumah threw down his gun and ran to stop the men onahead. When he got back the Doctor said, "Chumah, I have lost so muchblood, there is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me. " Hewas then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's headto steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed in the huthe had so recently left. It was necessary to let the Chief Muanazawambaknow what had happened, and for this purpose Dr. Livingstone despatcheda messenger. He was directed to ask him to supply a guide for the nextday, as he trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march:the answer was, "Stay as long as you wish, and when you want guides toKalunganjovu's you shall have them. "]

_22nd April, 1873. _--Carried on kitanda over Buga S. W. 2-1/4. [33]

[His servants say that instead of rallying, they saw that his strengthwas becoming less and less, and in order to carry him they made akitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of seven feet in length, crossed with rails three feet long, and about four inches apart, thewhole lashed strongly together. This framework was covered with grass, and a blanket laid on it. Slung from a pole, and borne between twostrong men, it made a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhaustedtraveller was conveyed to the next village through a flooded grassplain. To render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket wassuspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and allowthe air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off fromthesick man. The start was deferred this morning until the dew was off theheads of the long grass sufficiently to ensure his being kept tolerablydry. 

The excruciating pains of his dysenteric malady caused him the greatestexhaustion as they marched, and they were glad enough to reach anothervillage in 2-1/4 hours, having travelled S. W. From the last point. Hereanother hut was built. The name of the halting-place is not rememberedby the men, for the villagers fled at their approach; indeed the noisemade by the drums sounding the alarm had been caught by the Doctor sometime before, and he exclaimed with thankfulness on hearing it, "Ah, nowwe are near!" Throughout this day the following men acted as bearers ofthe kitanda: Chowpéré, Songolo, Chumah, and Adiamberi. Sowféré, too, joined in at one time. ]

_23rd April, 1873. _--(No entry except the date. )

[They advanced another hour and a half through the same expanse offlooded treeless waste, passing numbers of small fish-weirs set in sucha manner as to catch the fish on their way back to the Lake, but seeingnothing of the owners, who had either hidden themselves or taken toflight on the approach of the caravan. Another village afforded them anight's shelter, but it seems not to be known by any particular name. ]

_24th April, 1873. _--(No entry except the date. )

[But one hour's march was accomplished to-day, and again they haltedamongst some huts--place unknown. His great prostration made progressexceedingly painful, and frequently when it was necessary to stop thebearers of the kitanda, Chumah had to support the Doctor from falling. ]

_25th April, 1873. _--(No entry except the date. )

[In an hour's course S. W. They arrived at a village in which they founda few people. Whilst his servants were busy completing the hut for thenight's encampment, the Doctor, who was lying in a shady place on thekitanda, ordered them to fetch one of the villagers. The chief of theplace had disappeared, but the rest of his people seemed quite at theirease, and drew near to hear what was going to be said. They were askedwhether they knew of a hill on which four rivers took their rise. Thespokesman answered that they had no knowledge of it; they themselves, said he, were not travellers, and all those who used to go on tradingexpeditions were now dead. In former years Malenga's town, Kutchinyama, was the assembling place of the Wabisa traders, but these had been sweptoff by the Mazitu. Such as survived had to exist as best they couldamongst the swamps and inundated districts around the Lake. Whenever anexpedition was organised to go to the coast, or in any other direction, travellers met at Malenga's town to talk over the route to be taken:then would have been the time, said they, to get information about everypart. Dr. Livingstone was here obliged to dismiss them, and explainedthat he was too ill to continue talking, but he begged them to bring asmuch food as they could for sale to Kalunganjovu's. ]

_26th April, 1873. _--(No entry except the date. )

[They proceeded as far as Kalunganjovu's town, the chief himself comingto meet them on the way dressed in Arab costume and wearing a red fez. Whilst waiting here Susi was instructed to count over the bags of beads, and, on reporting that twelve still remained in stock, Dr. Livingstonetold him to buy two large tusks if an opportunity occurred, as he mightrun short of goods by the time they got to Ujiji, and could thenexchange them with the Arabs there for cloth, to spend on their way toZanzibar. ]

To-day, the _27th April, 1873, _ he seems to have been almost dying. Noentry at all was made in his diary after that which follows, and it musthave taxed him to the utmost to write:--

"Knocked up quite, and remain--recover--sent to buy milch goats. We areon the banks of the Molilamo. "

They are the last words that David Livingstone wrote. 

From this point we have to trust entirely to the narrative of the men. They explain the above sentence as follows: Salimané, Amisi, Hamsani, and Laedé, accompanied by a guide, were sent off to endeavour ifpossible to buy some milch goats on the upper part of the Molilamo. [34]They could not, however, succeed; it was always the same story--theMazitu had taken everything. The chief, nevertheless, sent a substantialpresent of a kid and three baskets of ground-nuts, and the people werewilling enough to exchange food for beads. Thinking he could eat someMapira corn pounded up with ground-nuts, the Doctor gave instructions tothe two women M'sozi and M'toweka, to prepare it for him, but he was notable to take it when they brought it to him. 

_28th April, 1873. _--Men were now despatched in an opposite direction, that is to visit the villages on the right bank of the Molilamo as itflows to the Lake; unfortunately they met with no better result, andreturned empty handed. 

On the _29th April_, Kalunganjovu and most of his people came early tothe village. The chief wished to assist his guest to the utmost, andstated that as he could not be sure that a sufficient number of canoeswould be forthcoming unless he took charge of matters himself, he shouldaccompany the caravan to the crossing place, which was about an hour'smarch from the spot. "Everything should be done for his friend, " hesaid. 

They were ready to set out. On Susi's going to the hut, Dr. Livingstonetold him that he was quite unable to walk to the door to reach thekitanda, and he wished the men to break down one side of the littlehouse, as the entrance was too narrow to admit it, and in this manner tobring it to him where he was: this was done, and he was gently placedupon it, and borne out of the village. 

Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they followed ittill they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by thenumerous little islands which stood partly in the river and partly inthe flood on the upper waters. Kalunganjovu was seated on a knoll, andactively superintended the embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told hisbearers to take him to a tree at a little distance off, that he mightrest in the shade till most of the men were on the other side. A gooddeal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one inordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a falsestep, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched the invalidand the bed also on which he was carried. 

The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult task ofconveying the Doctor across, for the canoes were not wide enough toallow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom of either of them. Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone had always been able to sit inthe various canoes they had used on like occasions, but now he had nopower to do so. Taking his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in thebottom of the strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could notbear the pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning toChumah, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him as low aspossible, so that he might clasp his hands together behind his head, directing him at the same how to avoid putting any pressure on thelumbar region of the back; in this way he was deposited in the bottom ofthe canoe, and quickly ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowpéré, Susi, Farijala, and Chumah. The same precautions were used on the other side:the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent anyunnecessary pain in disembarking. 

Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and superintendthe building of another house. For the first mile or two they had tocarry the Doctor through swamps and plashes, glad to reach somethinglike a dry plain at last. 

It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest ebb. Chumah, one of his bearers on these the last weary miles the great traveller wasdestined to accomplish, says that they were every now and then imploredto stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs ofhis disease during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, andif lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him, which alarmed themall excessively. This was specially the case at one spot where a treestood in the path. Here one of his attendants was called to him, and, onstooping down, he found him unable to speak from faintness. Theyreplaced him in the kitanda, and made the best of their way on thejourney. Some distance further on great thirst oppressed him; he askedthem if they had any water, but, unfortunately for once, not a drop wasto be procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated fromthe party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw Farijalaapproaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully sent off fromChitambo's village. 

Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not completetheir task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to placehim on the ground, and to let him stay where he was. Fortunately at thismoment some of the outlying huts of the village came in sight, and theytried to rally him by telling him that he would quickly be in the housethat the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was toallow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town. 

On reaching their companions it was found that the work was not quitefinished, and it became necessary therefore to lay him under the broadeaves of a native hut till things were ready. 

Chitambo's village at this time was almost empty. When the crops aregrowing it is the custom to erect little temporary houses in the fields, and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the timein watching their crops, which are scarcely more safe by day than bynight; thus it was that the men found plenty of room and shelter readyto their hand. Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whosepraises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder theystood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers werefalling, and as soon as possible his house was made ready and bankedround with earth. 

Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and grass, occuping a position across and near to the bay-shaped end of the hut: inthe bay itself bales and boxes were deposited, one of the latter doingduty for a table, on which the medicine chest and sundry other thingswere placed. A fire was lighted outside, nearly opposite the door, whilst the boy Majwara slept just within to attend to his master's wantsin the night. 

On the _30th April, 1873, _ Chitambo came early to pay a visit ofcourtesy, and was shown into the Doctor's presence, but he was obligedto send him away, telling him to come again on the morrow, when he hopedto have more strength to talk to him, and he was not again disturbed. Inthe afternoon he asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, andexplained to him the position in which to hold his hand, that it mightlie in the palm whilst he slowly turned the key. 

So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took to theirhuts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch, sat round thefires, all feeling that the end could not be far off. About 11 P. M. Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to his master. At the timethere were loud shouts in the distance, and, on entering, Dr. Livingstone said, "Are our men making that noise?" "No, " replied Susi;"I can hear from the cries that the people are scaring away a buffalofrom their dura fields. " A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, andevidently wandering, "Is this the Luapula?" Susi told him they were inChitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for a while. Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he said, "Sikun'gapikuenda Luapula?" (How many days is it to the Luapula?)

"Na zani zikutatu, Bwana" (I think it is three days, master), repliedSusi. 

A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed, half said, "Ohdear, dear!" and then dozed off again. 

It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again outside thedoor, "Bwana wants you, Susi. " On reaching the bed the Doctor told himhe wished him to boil some water, and for this purpose he went to thefire outside, and soon returned with the copper kettle full. Calling himclose, he asked him to bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candlenear him, for the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficultyDr. Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by hisside; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup, and to putanother empty one by it, he said in a low feeble voice, "All right; youcan go out now. " These were the last words he was ever heard to speak. 

It must have been about 4 A. M. When Susi heard Majwara's step oncemore. "Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know if he is alive. " Thelad's evident alarm made Susi run to arouse Chumah, Chowperé, Matthew, and Muanyaséré, and the six men went immediately to the hut. 

Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was notlying on it, but appeared to be engaged in prayer, and theyinstinctively drew backwards for the instant. Pointing to him, Majwarasaid, "When I lay down he was just as he is now, and it is because Ifind that he does not move that I fear he is dead. " They asked the ladhow long he had slept? Majwara said he could not tell, but he was surethat it was some considerable time: the men drew nearer. 

A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box, shed a lightsufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was kneeling by theside of his bed, his body stretched forward, his head buried in hishands upon the pillow. For a minute they watched him: he did not stir, there was no sign of breathing; then one of them, Matthew, advancedsoftly to him and placed his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient;life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold:Livingstone was dead. 

His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up, and laid him fulllength on the bed, then, carefully covering him, they went out into thedamp night air to consult together. It was not long before the cockscrew, and it is from this circumstance--coupled with the fact that Susispoke to him some time shortly before midnight--that we are able tostate with tolerable certainty that he expired early on the 1st of May. 

It has been thought best to give the narrative of these closing hours asnearly as possible in the words of the two men who attended himconstantly, both here and in the many illnesses of like character whichhe endured in his last six years' wanderings; in fact from the firstmoment of the news arriving in England, it was felt to be indispensablethat they should come home to state what occurred. 

 * * * * *

The men have much to consider as they cower around the watch-fire, andlittle time for deliberation. They are at their furthest point from homeand their leader has fallen at their head; we shall see presently howthey faced their difficulties. 

 * * * * *

Several inquiries will naturally arise on reading this distressinghistory; the foremost, perhaps, will be with regard to the entireabsence of everything like a parting word to those immediately abouthim, or a farewell line to his family and friends at home. It must bevery evident to the reader that Livingstone entertained very graveforebodings about his health during the last two years of his life, butit is not clear that he realized the near approach of death when hismalady suddenly passed into a more dangerous stage. 

It may be said, "Why did he not take some precautions or give somestrict injunctions to his men to preserve his note-books and maps, atall hazards, in the event of his decease? Did not his great rulingpassion suggest some such precaution?"

Fair questions, but, reader, you have all--every word written, spoken, or implied. 

Is there, then, no explanation? Yes; we think past experience affordsit, and it is offered to you by one who remembers moreover howLivingstone himself used to point out to him in Africa the peculiarfeatures of death by malarial poisoning. 

In full recollection of eight deaths in the Zambesi and Shiré districts, not a single parting word or direction in any instance can be recalled. Neither hope nor courage give way as death approaches. In most cases acomatose state of exhaustion supervenes, which, if it be not quicklyarrested by active measures, passes into complete insensibility: this isalmost invariably the closing scene. 

In Dr. Livingstone's case we find some departure from the ordinarysymptoms. [35] He, as we have seen by the entry of the 18th April wasalive to the conviction that malarial poison is the basis of everydisorder in Tropical Africa, and he did not doubt but that he was fullyunder its influence whilst suffering so severely. As we have said, a manof less endurance in all probability would have perished in the firstweek of the terrible approach to the Lake, through the flooded countryand under the continual downpour that he describes. It tried everyconstitution, saturated every man with fever poison, and destroyedseveral, as we shall see a little further on. The greater vitality inhis iron system very likely staved off for a few days the last state ofcoma to which we refer, but there is quite sufficient to show us thatonly a thin margin lay between the heavy drowsiness of the last few daysbefore reaching Chitambo's and the final and usual symptom that bringson unconsciousness and inability to speak. 

On more closely questioning the men one only elicits that they imaginehe hoped to recover as he had so often done before, and if this reallywas the case it will in a measure account for the absence of anythinglike a dying statement, but still they speak again and again of hisdrowsiness, which in itself would take away all ability to realizevividly the seriousness of the situation. It may be that at the last aflash of conviction for a moment lit up the mind--if so, what greaterconsolation can those have who mourn his loss, than the account that themen give of what they saw when they entered the hut?

Livingstone had not merely turned himself, he had risento pray; hestill rested on his knees, his hands were clasped under his head: whenthey approached him he seemed to live. He had not fallen to right orleft when he rendered up his spirit to God. Death required no change oflimb or position; there was merely the gentle settling forwards of theframe unstrung by pain, for the Traveller's perfect rest had come. Willnot time show that the men were scarcely wrong when they thought "he yetspeaketh"--aye, perhaps far more clearly to us than he could have doneby word or pen or any other means!

Is it, then, presumptuous to think that the long-used fervent prayer ofthe wanderer sped forth once more--that the constant supplication becamemore perfect in weakness, and that from his "loneliness" DavidLivingstone, with a dying effort, yet again besought Him for whom Helaboured to break down the oppression and woe of the land?

 * * * * *

Before daylight the men were quietly told in each hut what had happened, and that they were to assemble. Coming together as soon as it was lightenough to see, Susi and Chumah said that they wished everybody to bepresent whilst the boxes were opened, so that in case money or valuableswere in them, all might be responsible. Jacob Wainwright (who couldwrite, they knew) was asked to make some notes which should serve as aninventory, and then the boxes were brought out from the hut. 

Before he left England in 1865, Dr. Livingstone arranged that histravelling equipment should be as compact as possible. An old friendgave him some exceedingly well-made tin-boxes, two of which lasted outthe whole of his travels. In these his papers and instruments were safefrom wet and from white ants, which have to be guarded against more thananything else. Besides the articles mentioned below, a number of lettersand despatches in various stages were likewise enclosed, and one cannever sufficiently extol the good feeling which after his deathinvested all these writings with something like a sacred care in theestimation of his men. It was the Doctor's custom to carry a smallmetallic note-book in his pocket: a quantity of these have come to handfilled from end to end, and as the men preserved every one that theyfound, we have a daily entry to fall back upon. Nor was less care shownfor his rifles, sextants, his Bible and Church-service, and the medicinechest. 

Jacob's entry is as follows, and it was thoughtfully made at the backend of the same note-book that was in use by the Doctor when he died. Itruns as follows:--

"11 o'clock night, 28th April. 

"In the chest was found about a shilling and half, and in other chesthis hat, 1 watch, and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in eachbox there was one. 1 compass, 3 other kind of measuring instrument. 4other kind of measuring instrument. And in other chest 3 drachmas andhalf half scrople. "

A word is necessary concerning the first part of this. It will beobserved that Dr. Livingstone made his last note on the 27th April. Jacob, referring to it as the only indication of the day of the month, and fancying, moreover, that it was written on the _preceding day, _wrote down "28th April. " Had he observed that the few words opposite the27th in the pocket-book related to the stay at Kalunganjovu's village, and not to any portion of the time at Chitambo's, the error would havebeen avoided. Again, with respect to the time. It was about 11 o'clockP. M. When Susi last saw his master alive, and therefore this time isnoted, but both he and Chumah feel quite sure, from what Majwara said, that death did not take place till some hours after. 

It was not without some alarm that the men realised their moreimmediate difficulties: none could see better than they whatcomplications might arise in an hour. 

They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead to beprevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed spirits of men areuniversally believed to have vengeance and mischief at heart as theirruling idea in the land beyond the grave. All rites turn on this belief. The religion of the African is a weary attempt to propitiate those whoshow themselves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes oran accident happens. 

On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and people makecommon cause against those who wander through their territory, and havethe misfortune to lose one of their party by death. Who is to tell theconsequences? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences, and the men regarded their position with no small apprehension. 

Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chumah placed the state ofaffairs before them, and asked what should be done. They received areply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, whichwas hearty and unanimous. "You, " said they, "are old men in travellingand in hardships; you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise toobey whatever you order us to do. " From this moment we may look on Susiand Chumah as the Captains of the caravan. To their knowledge of thecountry, of the tribes through which they were to pass, but, above all, to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout, their safe return to Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God'sgood guidance, be mainly attributed. 

All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of Dr. Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be inflictedupon them as compensation for damage done that their means would becrippled, and they could hardly expect to pay their way to the coast. Itwas decided that, come what might, the body _must be borne to Zanzibar. _It was also arranged to take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at somedistance off, where the necessary preparations could be carried out, andfor this purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood, whilst others went to collect grass. Chumah set off to see Chitambo, andsaid that they wanted to build a place outside the village, if he wouldallow it, for they did not like living amongst the huts. His consent waswillingly given. 

Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy food, anddivulged the secret: the chief was at once informed of what hadhappened, and started for the spot on which the new buildings were beingset up. Appealing to Chumah, he said, "Why did you not tell me thetruth? I know that your master died last night. You were afraid to letme know, but do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and morethan once have been to Bwani (the Coast), before the country on the roadwas destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no bad motives incoming to our land, and death often happens to travellers in theirjourneys. " Reassured by this speech, they told him of their intention toprepare the body and to take it with them. He, however, said it would befar better to bury it there, for they were undertaking an impossibletask; but they held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to thenew hut the same day on the kitanda carefully covered with cloth and ablanket. 

_2nd May, 1873. _--The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, makinghim a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome. It isonly right to add, that the men speak on all occasions with gratitude ofChitambo's conduct throughout, and say that he is a fine generousfellow. Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all honoursshould be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was arrangedforthwith. 

At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people, and accompanied by hiswives, came to the new settlement. He was clad in a broad red cloth, which covered the shoulders, whilst the wrapping of native cotton cloth, worn round the waist, fell as low as his ankles. All carried bows, arrows, and spears, but no guns were seen. Two drummers joined in theloud wailing lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on thememories of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band ofservants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strictrule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions. 

As yet nothing had been done to the corpse. 

A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the principal one. It was constructed in such a manner that it should be open to the air atthe top, and sufficiently strong to defy the attempts of any wild beastto break through it. Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted sideby side and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close tothis building the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the wholesettlement had another high stockade carried completely around it. 

Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse on the followingmorning. One of the men, Saféné, whilst in Kalunganjovu's district, bought a large quantity of salt: this was purchased of him for sixteenstrings of beads, there was besides some brandy in the Doctor's stores, and with these few materials they hoped to succeed in their object. 

Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked up someknowledge of the method pursued in making _post-mortem_ examinations, whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and at his request, Carras, one of the Nassick boys, was told off to assist him. Previous to this, however, early on the 3rd May, a special mourner arrived. He came withthe anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows ofhollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in low monotonouschant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:

 Lélo kwa Engérésé, Muana sisi oa konda: Tu kamb' tamb' Engérésé. 

 which translated is--

 To-day the Englishman is dead, Who has different hair from ours: Come round to see the Englishman. 

His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him in theceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads. 

The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon afterwardstaken to the place prepared. Over the heads of Farijala andCarras--Susi, Chumah, and Muanyaséré held a thick blanket as a kind ofscreen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofiké and JohnWainwright were present. Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring hisPrayer Book with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure. 

In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone asdescribed by himself, and subsequently by these faithful fellows, one isquite prepared to understand their explanation, and to see why it waspossible to defer these operations so long after death: they say thathis frame was little more than skin and bone. Through an incisioncarefully made, the viscera were removed, and a quantity of salt wasplaced in the trunk. All noticed one very significant circumstance inthe autopsy. A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, layin the left side, [36] whilst Farijalapointed to the state of the lungs, which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and whitepatches. 

The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin box, whichhad formerly contained flour, and decently and reverently buried in ahole dug some four feet deep on the spot where they stood. Jacob wasthen asked to read the Burial Service, which he did in the presence ofall. The body was left to be fully exposed to the sun. No other meanswere taken to preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth andsome on the hair; nor can one imagine for an instant that any otherprocess would have been available either for Europeans or natives, considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The men kept watchday and night to see that no harm came to their sacred charge. Theirhuts surrounded the building, and had force been used to enter itsstrongly-barred door, the whole camp would have turned out in a moment. Once a day the position of the body was changed, but at no other timewas any one allowed to approach it. 

No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen days'exposure. At the end of this period preparations were made for retracingtheir steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped roundin some calico, the leg being bent inwards at the knees to shorten thepackage. The next thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and, in the absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was foundby stripping from a Myonga tree enough of the bark in one piece to forma cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over this case a piece ofsailcloth was sewn, and the whole package was lashed securely to a pole, so as to be carried by two men. 

Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the large Mvulatree which stands by the place where the body rested, stating the nameof Dr. Livingstone and the date of his death, and, before leaving, themen gave strict injunctions to Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away, so as to save it from the bush-fires which annually sweep over thecountry and destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close tothe spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece, likea lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with thetar that was intended for the boat: this sign they think will remain fora long time from the solidity of the timber. Before parting withChitambo, they gave him a large tin biscuit-box and some newspapers, which would serve as evidence to all future travellers that a white manhad been at his village. 

The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree and thetimber sign-posts from being touched, but added, that he hoped theEnglish would not be long in coming to see him, because there was alwaysthe risk of an invasion of Mazitu, when he would have to fly, and thetree might be cut down for a canoe by some one, and then all trace wouldbe lost. All was now ready for starting. 

FOOTNOTES:

[33] Two hours and a quarter in a south-westerly direction. 

[34] The name Molilamo is allowed to stand, but in Dr. Livingstone'sMap we find it Lulimala, and the men confirm, this pronunciation. --ED. 

[35] The great loss of blood may have had a bearing on the case. 

[36] It has been suggested by one who attended Dr. Livingstoneprofessionally in several dangerous illnesses in Africa, that theultimate cause of death was acute splenitis. --ED. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

 They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a lion. A disaster at N'Kossu's. Native surgery. Approach Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembé. Chumah meets Lieutenant Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr. Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed. Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks. 

The homeward march was then begun. Throughout its length we shallcontent ourselves with giving the approximate number of days occupied intravelling and halting. Although the memories of both men areexcellent--standing the severest test when they are tried by the lightof Dr. Livingstone's journals, or "set on" at any passage of histravels--they kept no precise record of the time spent at villages wherethey were detained by sickness, and so the exactness of a diary can nolonger be sustained. 

To return to the caravan. They found on this the first day's journeythat some other precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of themournful burden to keep to their task. Sending to Chitambo's village, they brought thence the cask of tar which they had deposited with thechief, and gave a thick coating to the canvas outside. This answeredall purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with ordersto send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their coursethrough Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the Luapula. 

A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of country to betraversed. Susi and Chumah had travelled with Dr. Livingstone in theneighbourhood of the north-west shores of Bangweolo in previous years. The last fatal road from the north might be struck by a march in a dueN. E. Direction, if they could but hold out so far without any seriousmisfortune; but in order to do this they must first strike northwards soas to reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part notnecessarily far from its exit from the Lake, they could at once laytheir course for the south end of Tanganyika. 

There were, however, serious indications amongst them. First one andthen the other dropped out of the file, and by the time they reached atown belonging to Chitambo's brother--and on the third day only sincethey set out--half their number were _hors de combat_. It was impossibleto go on. A few hours more and all seemed affected. The symptoms wereintense pain in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the badcases, inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual wadingthrough water before the Doctor's death. They think that illness hadbeen waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previousdays' tramp, which was almost entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps, turned the scale against them. 

Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one leg, and thenquickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died. Kaniki and Bahati, two of the women, expired in a few days, and all looked at its worst. Ittook them a good month to rally sufficiently to resume their journey. 

Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the nativesday by day brought an abundance of food to the sick men. From them theyheard that the districts they were now in were notoriously unhealthy, and that many an Arab had fallen out from the caravan march to leave hisbones in these wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion tothe westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowinginto the Luapula on the left bank. Unfortunately no notice was taken ofits name, for it would be of considerable geographical interest. 

At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the bordervillages in Ilala the same night, but the next day several fell ill forthe second time, Susi being quite unable to move. 

Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was fully aware ofeverything that had taken place at Chitambo's, and showed the men thegreatest kindness. Not a day passed without his bringing them somepresent or other, but there was a great disinclination amongst thepeople to listen to any details connected with Dr. Livingstone's death. Some return for their kindness was made by Farijala shooting threebuffaloes near the town: meat and goodwill go together all over Africa, and the liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow waspurchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the twentiethday all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push forwards. 

The broad waters of the long-looked for Luapula soon hove in sight. Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village ofChisalamalama, who willingly offered them canoes for the passage acrossthe next day. [37]

As one listens to the report that the men give of this mighty river, heinstinctively bends his eyes on a dark burden laid in the canoe! Howardently would he have scanned it whose body thus passes across thesewaters, and whose spirit, in its last hours' sojourn in this world, wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!

It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the width of theZambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of fully four miles. A mancould not be seen on the opposite bank: trees looked small: a gun couldbe heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across theriver--such is the description given by men who were well able tocompare the Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they wereable to use the "m'phondo, " or punting pole, for a distance throughreeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again abroad reedy expanse, followed by another deep part, succeeded in turn byanother current not so broad as those previously paddled across, andthen, as on the starting side, gradually shoaling water, abounding inreeds. Two islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole andpaddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across thisenormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo towards thenorth. 

A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping beyond theLuapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant was doomed to endhis career at this spot!

According to custom, a special stable was built for him close to themen. In the middle of the night a great disturbance, coupled with theshouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The men rushed out and found thestable broken down and the donkey gone. Snatching, some logs, they setfire to the grass, as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lionclose to the body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those whohad caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and thelion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been seized by thenose, and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor showed that the gunshad taken effect. The lion's blood lay in a broad track (for he wasapparently injured in the back, and could only drag himself along); butthe footprints of a second lion were too plain to make it advisable totrack him far in the thick cover he had reached, and so the search wasabandoned. The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoesremained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to makea feast at Chisalamalama's. 

[Illustration: An old Servant destroyed. ]

Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were fain to maketheir next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spreaditself out, --a small island in the waters. A fire was lit, and byemploying hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in onthe hard earth. 

Thankful to leave such a place, their guide led them next day to thevillage of Kawinga, whom they describe as a tall man, of singularlylight colour, and the owner of a gun, a unique weapon in these parts, but one already made useless by wear and tear. The next village, N'kossu's, was much more important. The people, called Kawendé, formerlyowned plenty of cattle, but now they are reduced: the Banyamwesi haveput them under the harrow, and but few herds remain. We may callattention to the somewhat singular fact, that the hump quite disappearsin the Lake breed; the cows would pass for respectable shorthorns. [38]

A present was made to the caravan of a cow; but it seems that the rule, "first catch your hare, " is in full force in N'kossu's pastures. Theanimals are exceedingly wild, and a hunt has to be set on foot wheneverbeef is wanted; it was so in this case. Saféné and Muanyaséré with theirguns essayed to settle the difficulty. The latter, an old hunter as wehave seen, was not likely to do much harm; but Saféné, firing wildly atthe cow, hit one of the villagers, and smashed the bone of the poorfellow's thigh. Although it was clearly an accident, such things do notreadily settle themselves down on this assumption in Africa. The chief, however, behaved very well. He told them a fine would have to be paid onthe return of the wounded man's father, and it had better be handed tohim, for by law the blame would fall on him, as the entertainer of theman who had brought about the injury. He admitted that he had orderedall his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred, but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been heard. They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to the demand; theprocess adopted to set the broken limb is a sample of native surgery, which must not be passed over. 

[Illustration: Kawendé Surgery. ]

First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in length, insuch a manner that the patient could sit in it with his legs out beforehim. A large leaf was then bound round the fractured thigh, and earththrown in, so that the patient was buried up to the chest. The next actwas to cover the earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layerof mud; then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire liton the top directly over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smotheringthe sufferer, they held a tall mat as a screen before his face, and theoperation went on. After some time the heat reached the limbsunderground. Bellowing with fear and covered with perspiration, the manimplored them to let him out. The authorities concluding that he hadbeen under treatment a sufficient time, quickly burrowed down and liftedhim from the hole. He was now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong menstretched the wounded limb with all their might! Splints, duly preparedwere afterwards bound round it, and we must hope that in due timebenefit accrued, but as the ball had passed through the limb, we musthave our doubts on the subject. The villagers told Chuma that after theWanyamwesi engagements they constantly treated bad gunshot-wounds inthis way with perfect success. 

Leaving N'kossu's, they rested one night at another village belonging tohim, and then made for the territory of the Wa Ussi. Here they met witha surly welcome, and were told they must pass on. No doubt theintelligence that they were carrying their master's body had a greatdeal to do with it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatestrapidity in all directions. Three times they camped in the forest, andfor a wonder began to find some dry ground. The path lay in the directline of Chawendé's town, parallel to the north shore of the Lake, and atno great distance from it. 

Some time previously a solitary Unyamwesi had attached himself to theparty at Chitankooi's, where he had been left sick by a passing caravanof traders: this man now assured them the country before them was wellknown to him. 

Approaching Chawendé's, according to native etiquette, Amoda and Sabouriwent on in front to inform the chief, and to ask leave to enter histown. As they did not come back, Muanyaséré and Chuma set off afterthem to ascertain the reason of the delay. No better success seemed toattend this second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all wentforward in the track of the four messengers. 

In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyaséré met Amoda and Sabouri coming backtowards them with five men. They reported that they had entered thetown, but found it a very large stockaded place; moreover, two othervillages of equal size were close to it. Much pombe drinking was goingon. On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against theprincipal hut innocently enough. Chawendé's son, drunk and quarrelsome, made this a cause of offence, and swaggering up, he insolently askedthem how they dared to do such a thing. Chawendé interfered, and for themoment prevented further disagreeables; in fact, he himself seems tohave been inclined to grant the favour which was asked: however, therewas danger brewing, and the men retired. 

When the main body met them returning, tired with their fruitlesserrand, a consultation took place. Wood there was none. To scatter aboutand find materials with which to build shelter for the night, would onlyoffer a great temptation to these drunken excited people to plunder thebaggage. It was resolved to make for the town. 

When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly refusedadmittance, those inside telling them to go down to the river and campon the bank. They replied that this was impossible: that they weretired, it was very late, and nothing could be found there to give themshelter. Meeting with no different answer, Saféné said, "Why standtalking to them? let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting theaction to the word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway. Saféné got through, and Muanyaséré climbed over the top of the stockade, followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the gate wide and let hiscompanions through. Hostilities might still have been averted hadbetter counsel prevailed. 

The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit their things, when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and fired at Muanyaséré. The mancalled out to the others to seize him, which was done in an instant. Aloud cry now burst forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one ofthe people, hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: thiswas the signal for a general scrimmage. 

Chawendé's men fled from the town; the drums beat the assembly in alldirections, and an immense number flocked to the spot from the twoneighbouring villages, armed with their bows, arrows, and spears. Anassault instantly began from the outside. N'chisé was shot with an arrowin the shoulder through the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Thingswere becoming desperate. Putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and alltheir goods and chattels in one hut, they charged out of the town, andfired on the assailants, killing two and wounding several others. Fearing that they would only gather together in the other remainingvillages and renew the attack at night, the men carried these quicklyone by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on thesame side of the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoeswhich were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through thechannel of the Lopupussi, with disastrous results to the fugitivepeople. 

Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By the fortunesof war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity of food fell intotheir hands; and they remained for a week to recruit. Once or twice theyfound men approaching at night to throw fire on the roofs of the hutsfrom outside, but with this exception they were not interfered with. Onthe last day but one a man approached and called to them at the top ofhis voice not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that theyoccupied); for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added thatthe old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough for his badconduct. 

Listening to the account given of this occurrence, one cannot but lamentthe loss of life and the whole circumstances of the fight. Whilst on theone hand we may imagine that the loss of a cool, conciliatory, braveleader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it wasknown far and wide that this very loss was now a great weakness to hisfollowers. There is no surer sign of mischief in Africa than thesetrumpery charges of bewitching houses by placing things on them: somesuch over-strained accusation is generally set in the front rank whenother difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the samething in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around it as easilyin an African village as in an English city. Had the cortége submittedto extortion and insult, they felt that their night by the river wouldhave been a precarious one--even if they had been in a humour to sleepin a swamp when a town was at hand. These things gave occasion to themto resort to force. The desperate nature of their whole enterprise instarting for Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock ofdetermination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there isroom for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that, onmature consideration and in sober moments, the people who suffered, castthe real blame on the right shoulders. 

For the next three days after leaving Chawendé's they were still in thesame inundated fringe of Bouga, which surrounds the Lake, and on eachoccasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a resting-place could befound in the jungle, reaching Chama's village on the fourth day. A delayof forty-eight hours was necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and forthe next few marches she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesiman here, who had come from Kumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi district. He related to them how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried tocarry Chawendé's town by assault, but had been repulsed both times. Itwould seem that, with the strong footing these invaders have in thecountry, armed as they are besides with the much-dreaded guns, it canonly be a matter of time before the whole rule, such as it is, passesinto the hands of the new-comers. 

The next night was spent in the open, before coming to the scatteredhuts of Ngumbu's, where a motley group of stragglers, for the most partWabisa, were busy felling the trees and clearing the land forcultivation. However, the little community gave them a welcome, in spiteof the widespread report of the fighting at Chawendé's, and dancing anddrumming were kept up till morning. 

One more night was passed in the plain, and they reached a tributary ofthe Lopupussi River, called the M'Pamba; it is a considerable stream, and takes one up to the chest in crossing. They now drew near toChiwaie's town, which they describe as a very strong place, fortifiedwith a stockade and ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagerstried to pick a quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was theirinvariable custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their head, whilst the Union Jack and the red colours of Zanzibar were carried in aforemost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of some importance cameup and stopped the discussion, or there might have been more mischief, for the men were in no temper to lower their flag, knowing their ownstrength pretty well by this time. Making their settlement close toChiwaie's, they met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds ofthe inhabitants. 

Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village; sleepingtwo nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in another day's marchfound themselves, to their great delight, at Kapesha's. They knew theirroad from this point, for on the southern route with Dr. Livingstonethey had stopped here, and could therefore take up the path that leadsto Tanganyika. Hitherto their course had been easterly, with a littlenorthing, but now they turned their backs to the Lake, which they hadheld on the right-hand since crossing the Luapula, and struck almostnorth. 

From Kapesha's to Lake Bangweolo is a three days' march as the crowflies, for a man carrying a burden. They saw a large quantity of ironand copper wire being made here by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process isas follows:--A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped hole in it, isfirmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is then thrust into it, and a line attached to the first few inches which can be coaxed through. A number of men haul on this line, singing and dancing in tune, and thusit is drawn through the first drill; it is subsequently passed throughothers to render it still finer, and excellent wire is the result. Leaving Kapesha they went through many of the villages alreadyenumerated in Dr. Livingstone's Diary. Chama's people came to see themas they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings Casongogave them leave to buy food at his town. Reaching Chama's head-quartersthey camped outside, and received a civil message, telling them toconvey his orders to the people on the banks of the Kalongwesi that thetravellers must be ferried safely across. They found great fear andmisery prevailing in the neighbourhood from the constant raids made byKumbakumba's men. 

Leaving the Kalangwésé behind them they made for M'sama's son's town, meeting four men on the way who were going from Kumbakumba to Chama tobeat up recruits for an attack on the Katanga people. The request wassure to be met with alarm and refusal, but it served very well to actthe part taken by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediatelybe made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to gainsaythe stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of nativeoppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight. Already the largedistrict of Itawa has tacitly allowed itself to be put under the harrowby this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab. Black-mail is levied in all directions, and the petty chiefs, although really under tribute to Nsama, aresagacious enough to keep in with the powers that be. Kumbakumba showedthe men a storehouse full of elephants' tusks. A small detachment wassent off to try and gain tidings of one of the Nassick boys, John, whohad mysteriously disappeared a day or two previously on the march. Atthe time no great apprehensions were felt, but as he did not turn up thegrass was set on fire in order that he might see the smoke if he hadwandered, and guns were fired. Some think he purposely went off ratherthan carry a load any further; whilst others fear he may have beenkilled. Certain it is that after a five days' search in all directionsno tidings could be gained either here or at Chama's, and nothing morewas heard of the poor fellow. 

Numbers of slaves were collected here. On one occasion they saw fivegangs bound neck to neck by chains, and working in the gardens outsidethe towns. 

 * * * * *

The talk was still about the break up of Casembe's power, for it will berecollected that Kumbakumba and Pemba Motu had killed him a short timebefore; but by far the most interesting news that reached them was thata party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on their way torelieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some months previously. 

The chief showed them every kindness during their five days' rest, andwas most anxious that no mishap should by any chance occur to theirprincipal charge. He warned them to beware of hyænas, at night moreespecially, as the quarter in which they had camped had no stockaderound it as yet. 

Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found they had crossedthe watershed. The Lovu ran in front of them on its way to Tanganyika. The Kalongwesé, we have seen, flows to Lake Moero in the oppositedirection. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror ofKumbakumba dying away as they travelled in a north-easterly direction, and came amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place. A youngchief, Chungu, did all he could for them, for when the Doctor exploredthese regions before, Chungu had been much impressed with him: and now, throwing off all the native superstition, he looked on the arrival ofthe dead body as a cause of real sorrow. 

Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was killed nearthe town. According to native game laws (which in some respects areexceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had a right to a fore leg--had itbeen an elephant the tusk next the ground would have been his, past alldoubt--in this instance, however, the men sent in a plea that theirs wasno ordinary case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to beallowed to keep the whole carcase, and Chungu not only listened to theirstory, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's share. 

It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuna, the head and father of theAmambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They seem a superior race, and thisman is described as a worthy leader. His brothers Kasonso, Chitimbwa, Sombé, and their sister Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence forTafuna. In their villages an abundance of coloured homespun cloth speaksfor their industry; whilst from the numbers of dogs and elephant-spearsno further testimony is needed to show that the character they bear asgreat hunters is well deserved. 

The steep descent to the Lake now lay before them, and they came toKasakalawé's. Here it was that the Doctor had passed weary months ofillness on his first approach to Tanganyika in previous years. Thevillage contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few receivedthem hospitably enough and mourned the loss of him who had been so wellappreciated when alive. So they journeyed on day by day till thesouthern end of the Lake was rounded. 

The previous experience of the difficult route along the heightsbordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the Lake a wideberth this time, and for this purpose they held well to the eastward, passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of which they campednearly every night. It was necessary to go through the Fipa country, butthey learnt from one man and another that the chief, Kafoofi, was veryanxious that the body should not be brought near to his town--indeed, aguide was purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by aconsiderable détour. Kafoofi stands well with the coast Arabs. One, Ngombesassi by name, was at the time living with him, accompanied by hisretinue of slaves. He had collected a very large quantity of ivoryfurther in the interior, but dared not approach nearer at present toUnyanyembé with it to risk the chance of meeting one of Mirambo'shordes. 

This road across the plain seems incomparably the best, No difficultywhatever was experienced, and one cannot but lament the toil andweariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst holding a course close toTanganyika, although one must bear in mind that by no other means at thetime could he complete his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaintus with its harbours, its bays, and the rivers which find their wayinto it on the east; these are details which will prove of value whensmall vessels come to navigate it in the future. 

The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days' march overLambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which crosses the country eastand west, and attains, it would seem, an altitude of some 4000 feet. Looking down on the plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears tostretch away in front towards the north, but on descending this resolvesitself into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with salineincrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties theyanticipated had no real existence, for small villages were found, andwater was not scarce, although brackish. The first demand for toll wasmade near here, but the headman allowed them to pass for fourteenstrings of beads. Susi says that this plain literally swarms with herdsof game of all kinds: giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, andlions revelled in such good quarters. The settlements they came tobelonged chiefly to elephant hunters. Farijala and Muanyaséré did wellwith the buffalo, and plenty of beef came into camp. 

They gained some particulars concerning a salt-water lake on theirright, at no very considerable distance. It was reported to them to besmaller than Tanganyika, and goes by the name Bahari ya Muarooli--thesea of Muarooli--for such is the name of the paramount chief who liveson its shore, and if we mistake not the very Meréré, or his successor, about whom Dr. Livingstone from time to time showed such interest. Theynow approached the Likwa River, which flows to this inland sea: theydescribe it as a stream running breast high, with brackish water; littlesatisfaction was got by drinking from it. 

Just as they came to the Likwa, a long string of men was seen on theopposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of theirintentions, precautions were quickly taken to ensure the safety of thebaggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachmentwent across to meet the strangers, carrying the Arab flag in front. Chuma headed another band at a little distance in the rear of these, whilst Susi and a few more crouched in the jungle, with the bodyconcealed in a roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: itturned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants and buyivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that they had come straightthrough Unyanyembé from Bagamoio, on the coast, and that the Doctor'sdeath had already been reported there by natives of Fipa. 

As we notice with what rapidity the evil tidings spread (for the menfound that it had preceded them in all directions), one of the greatanxieties connected with African travel and exploration seems to berather increased than diminished. It shows us that it is never wise toturn an entirely deaf ear when the report of a disaster comes to hand, because in this instance the main facts were conveyed across country, striking the great arterial caravan route at Unyanyembé, and getting atonce into a channel that would ensure the intelligence reachingZanzibar. On the other hand, false reports never lag on theirjourney:--how often has Livingstone been killed in former years! Nor isone's perplexity lessened by past experience, for we find the oldest andmost sagacious travellers when consulted are, as a rule, no more to bedepended on than the merest tyro in guessing. 

With no small satisfaction, the men learnt from the outward-boundcaravan that the previous story was a true one, and they were assuredthat Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen and a quantity of goodshad already reached Unyanyembé. 

The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan: indeed aquantity of very good salt was collected by one of the men, who thoughthe could turn an honest bunch of beads with it at Unyanyembé. 

Petty tolls were levied on them. Kampama's deputy required four dotis, and an additional tax of six was paid to the chief of the Kanongo whenhis town was reached. 

The Lungwa River bowls away here towards Tanganyika. It is a quicktumbling stream, leaping amongst the rocks and boulders, and in itsdeeper pools it affords cool delight to schools of hippopotami. The men, who had hardly tasted good water since crossing Lambalamfipa, are loudin its praise. Muanyasere improved relations with the people at the nexttown by opportunely killing another buffalo, and all took a three days'rest. Yet another caravan met them, bound likewise for the interior, andadding further particulars about the Englishmen at Unyanyembé. Thisquickened the pace till they found at one stage they were melting twodays of the previous outward journey into one. 

Arriving at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of the party, wascommissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of theDoctor's death, and Chuma, taking three men with him, pressed on todeliver it to the English party in person. The rest of the cortégefollowed them through the jungle to Chilunda's village. On the outskirtsthey came across a number of Wagogo hunting elephants with dogs andspears, but although they were well treated by them, and receivedpresents of honey and food, they thought it better to keep these men inignorance of the fact that they were in charge of the dead body of theirmaster. 

The Manyara River was crossed on its way to Tanganyika before they gotto Chikooloo, Leaving this village behind them, they advanced to theUgunda district, now ruled by Kalimangombi, the son of Mbéréké, theformer chief, and so on to Kasekéra, which, it will be remembered, isnot far from Unyanyembé. 

_20th October, 1873. _--We will here run on ahead with Chuma on his wayto communicate with the new arrivals. He reached the Arab settlementwithout let or hindrance. Lieut. Cameron was quickly put in possessionof the main facts of Dr. Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter, and Chuma was questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon andLieut. Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the reported arrivalof Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieut. Cameronshowed the wayworn men every kindness. Chuma rested one day beforesetting out to relieve his comrades to whom he had arranged to make hisway as soon as possible. Lieut. Cameron expressed a fear that it wouldnot be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish themwith if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had suffered toosorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but the young fellowswere pretty well acquainted with native marauders by this time, and setoff without apprehension. 

And now the greater part of their task is over. The weather-beatencompany wind their way into the old well-known settlement of Kwihara. Ahost of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet them as they sorrowfullytake their charge to the same Tembé in which the "weary waiting" wasendured before, and then they submit to the systematic questioning whichthe native traveller is so well able to sustain. 

News in abundance was offered in return. The porters of the LivingstoneEast-Coast Aid Expedition had plenty to relate to the porters sent byMr. Stanley. Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters hadchanged very little since they were there before, either for better orfor worse. They found the English officers extremely short of goods; butLieut. Cameron, no doubt with the object of his Expedition full in view, very properly felt it a first duty to relieve the wants of the partythat had performed this Herculean feat of bringing the body of thetraveller he had been sent to relieve, together with every articlebelonging to him at the time of his death, as far as this main road tothe coast. 

In talking to the men about their intentions, Lieut. Cameron had seriousdoubts whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone throughthe Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred to himthat Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life to be buried inthe same land in which the remains of his wife lay, for it will beremembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on theZambesi. All this was put before the men, but they steadily adhered totheir first conviction--that it was right at all risks to attempt tobear their master home, and therefore they were no longer urged to buryhim at Kwihara. 

To the new comers it was of great interest to examine the boxes whichthe men had conveyed from Bangweolo. As we have seen, they had carefullypacked up everything at Chitambo's--books, instruments, clothes, and allwhich would bear special interest in time to come from having beenassociated with Livingstone in his last hours. 

It cannot be conceded for a moment that these poor fellows would havebeen right in forbidding this examination, when we consider the relativeposition in which natives and English officers must always stand to eachother; but it is a source of regret to relate that the chief part ofLivingstone's instruments were taken out of the packages andappropriated for future purposes. The instruments with which all hisobservations had been made throughout a series of discoveries extendingover seven years--aneroid barometers, compasses, thermometers, thesextant and other things, have gone on a new series of travels, to incurinnumerable risks of loss, whilst one only of his thermometers comes tohand. 

We could well have wished these instruments safe in England with thesmall remnant of Livingstone's personal property, which was allowed tobe shipped from Zanzibar. 

The Doctor had deposited four bales of cloth as a reserve stock with theArabs, and these were immediately forthcoming for the march down. 

The termination here of the ill-fated Expedition need not be commentedupon. One can only trust that Lieut. Cameron may be at liberty to pursuehis separate investigations in the interior under more favourableauspices. The men seemed to anticipate his success, for he is generousand brave in the presence of the natives, and likely to win his waywhere others undoubtedly would have failed. 

Ill-health had stuck persistently to the party, and all the officerswere suffering from the various forms of fever. Lieut. Cameron gave themen to understand that it was agreed Lieut. Murphy should return toZanzibar, and asked if they could attach his party to their march; ifso, the men who acted as carriers should receive 6 dollars a man fortheir services. This was agreed to. Susi had arranged that they shouldavoid the main path of the Wagogo; inasmuch, as if difficulty was to beencountered anywhere, it would arise amongst these lawless pugnaciouspeople. 

By making a ten days' détour at "Jua Singa, " and travelling by a pathwell known to one of their party through the jungle of Poli ya vengi, they hoped to keep out of harm's way, and to be able to make the clothhold out with which they were supplied. At length the start waseffected, and Dr. Dillon likewise quitted the Expedition to return tothe coast. It was necessary to stop after the first day's march, for along halt; for one of the women was unable to travel, they found, andprogress was delayed till she, the wife of Chowpéréh, could resume thejourney. There seem to have been some serious misunderstandings betweenthe leaders of Dr. Livingstone's party and Lieut. Murphy soon aftersetting out, which turned mainly on the subject of beginning the day'smarch. The former, trained in the old discipline of their master, laidstress on the necessity of very early rising to avoid the heat of theday, and perhaps pointed out more bluntly than pleasantly that if theEnglishmen wanted to improve their health, they had better do so too. However, to a certain extent, this was avoided by the two companiespleasing themselves. 

Making an early start, the body was carried to Kasekéra, by Susi's partywhere, from an evident disinclination to receive it into the village, anencampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. Therewas no disguising the fact that, if they kept along the main road, intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they wereengaged, stirring up certain hostility and jeopardising the mostprecious charge they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, themen removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the package inwhich it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the bark case in the hutin the thicket around the village in which they had placed it. Theobject now was to throw the villagers off their guard, by making believethat they had relinquished the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar. They feigned that they had abandoned their task, having changed theirminds, and that it must be sent back to Unyanyembé to be buried there. In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in thesmallest space possible, if they were actually to convey it secretly forthe future; this was quickly managed. 

Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh length ofbark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains, conveniently prepared asto length, were placed, the whole being surrounded with calico in sucha manner as to appear like an ordinary travelling bale, which was thendeposited with the rest of the goods. They next proceeded to gather afaggot of mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, andswathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about to beburied. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a letter, was dulyplaced in a cleft stick, according to the native letter-carrier'scustom, and six trustworthy men were told off ostensibly to go with thecorpse to Unyanyembé. With due solemnity the men set out; the villagerswere only too thankful to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It wasnear sundown. The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairlybeyond all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load. The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the jungle, andwhen all were disposed of, the wrappings were cunningly got rid of inthe same way. Going further on, first one man, and then another, sprungclear from the path into the long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps, and the whole party returned by different ways to their companions, whohad been anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detectthe real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, wasguarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually disclosed the barkcoffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrivalat Bagamoio. And now, devoid of fear, the people of Kasekéra asked themall to come and take up their quarters in the town; a privilege whichwas denied them so long as it was known that they had the remains of thedead with them. 

But a dreadful event was about to recall to their minds how many fallvictims to African disease!

Dr. Dillon now came on to Kasekéra suffering much from dysentery--a fewhours more, and he shot himself in his tent by means of a loaded rifle. 

Those who knew the brave and generous spirit in which this hard-workingvolunteer set out with Lieut. Cameron, fully hoping to relieve Dr. Livingstone, will feel that he ended his life by an act alien indeed tohis whole nature. The malaria imbibed during their stay at Unyanyembélaid upon him the severest form of fever, accompanied by delirium, underwhich he at length succumbed in one of its violent paroxysms. Hisremains are interred at Kasekéra. 

We must follow Susi's troop through a not altogether eventless journeyto the sea. Some days afterwards, as they wended their way through arocky place, a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death ina shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a water-jaron her head in the file of people, when an enormous snake dashed acrossthe path, deliberately struck her in the thigh, and made for a hole inthe jungle close at hand. This work of a moment was sufficient, for thepoor girl fell mortally wounded. She was carried forward, and all meansat hand were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe. 

Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove the truthof an assertion made to travellers in many parts of Africa. The nativesprotest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtakehis victim with lightning speed, and so dreadfully dangerous is it, bothfrom the activity of its poison and its vicious propensities, that it isperilous to approach its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab cameto some of the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that hehad just come by the Unyanyembé road, and that, whilst passing theidentical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the men was attackedby the same snake, with precisely the same results; in fact, whenlooking for a place in which to bury him they saw the grave of Losi, andthe two lie side by side. 

Natal colonists will probably recognise the Mamba in this snake; it ismuch to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes ofcomparison. In Southern Africa so great is the dread it inspires thatthe Kaffirs will break up a Kraal and forsake the place if a Mamba takesup his quarters in the vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, withno undue caution. 

Susi, to whom this snake is known in the Shupanga tongue as "Bubu, "describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in colour, of a dirty blueunder the belly, with red markings like the wattles of a cock on thehead. The Arabs go so far as to say that it is known to oppose thepassage of a caravan at times. Twisting its tail round a branch, it willstrike one man after another in the head with fatal certainty. Theirremedy is to fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head andcarried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this and iskilled--the story is given for what it is worth. 

It would seem that at Ujiji the natives, as in other places, cannot bearto have snakes killed. The "Chatu, " a species of python, is common, and, from being highly favoured, becomes so tame as to enter houses at night. A little meal is placed on the stool, which the uncanny visitor laps up, and then takes its departure--the men significantly say they never sawit with their own eyes. Another species utters a cry, much like thecrowing of a young cock; this is well authenticated. Yet another blackvariety has a spine like a blackthorn at the end of the tail, and itsbite is extremely deadly. 

At the same time it must be added that, considering the enormous numberof reptiles in Africa, it rarely occurs that anyone is bitten, and a fewmonths' residence suffices to dispel the dread which most travellersfeel at the outset. 

_February, 1874. _--No further incident occurred worthy of specialnotice. At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and beforemany hours were over, one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed the ActingConsul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot which the cortégehad reached. Arrangements were quickly made for transporting the remainsof Dr. Livingstone to the Island some thirty miles distant, and then itbecame perhaps rather too painfully plain to the men that their task wasfinished. 

One word on a subject which will commend itself to most before we closethis long eventful history. 

We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, andShupanga canoemen, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started fromZanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his last discoveries: of all these, fiveonly could answer to the roll-call as they handed over the dead body oftheir leader to his countrymen on the shore whither they had returned, and this after eight years' desperate service. 

Once more we repeat the names of these men. Susi and James Chuma havebeen sufficiently prominent throughout--hardly so perhaps has Amoda, their comrade ever since the Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abramand Mabruki, each with service to show from the time he left the NassiokCollege with the Doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoaéka and Halima, the two native girls of whom we have heard such a good character: theycast in their lot with the wanderers in Manyuema. It does seem strangeto hear the men say that no sooner did they arrive at their journey'send than they were so far frowned out of notice, that not so much as apassage to the Island was offered them when their burden was borne away. We must hope that it is not too late--even for the sake ofconsistency--to put it on record that _whoever_ assisted Livingstone, whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England. Surely thosewith whom he spent his last years must not pass away into Africa againunrewarded, and lost to sight. 

Yes, a very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say itemphatically. If the nation has gratified a reasonable wish in learningall that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble countryman andhis wonderful enterprise, the means of doing so could never have beenplaced at our disposal but for the ready willingness which made Susi andChuma determine, if possible, to render an account to some of those whomthey had known as their master's old companions. If the Geographer findsbefore him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as Livingstonealone could record them, it is right and proper that he should feel thepart these men have played in furnishing him with such valuable matter. For we repeat that nothing but such leadership and staunchness as thatwhich organized the march home from Ilala, and distinguished itthroughout, could have brought Livingstone's bones to our land or hislast notes and maps to the outer world. To none does the feat seem somarvellous as to those who know Africa and the difficulties which musthave beset both the first and the last in the enterprise. Thus in hisdeath, not less than in his life, David Livingstone bore testimony tothat goodwill and kindliness which exists in the heart of the African. 

FOOTNOTES:

[37] The men consider it five days' march "only carrying a gun" fromthe Molilamo to the bank of the Luapula--this in rough reckoning, atthe rate of native travelling, would give a distance of say 120 to 150miles. --ED. 

[38] This comparison was got at from the remarks made by Susi andChuma at an agricultural show; they pointed out the resemblance borneby the shorthorns and by the Alderney bulls to several breeds nearLake Bemba. --ED. 

THE END.