Transcriber's note:

 In this work, all spellings and punctuation were reproduced from the original work except in the very few cases where an obvious typo occurred. These typos are corrected without comment. 

 In the original work, monetary pounds were expressed as an italicized "l. " after the number. For the text version, I am using the more conventional £100 form for clarity. 

 In the original volumes in this set, each even-numbered page had a header consisting of the page number, the volume title, and the chapter number. The odd-numbered page header consisted of the year of the diary entry, a subject phrase, and the page number. In this set of e-books, the year is included as part of the date (which in the original volume were in the form reproduced here, minus the year). The subject phrase has been converted to sidenotes, usually positioned where it seemed most logical but occasionally simply between two paragraphs of the even-odd pair. 

 In the original book set, consisting of three volumes, the master index was in Volume 3. In this set of e-books, the index has been duplicated into each of the other volumes. To make the index easier to use in this work, the page number has been added to each Diary date. 

 * * * * *

 The Greville Memoirs

 A JOURNAL OF THE REIGNS of KING GEORGE IV. And KING WILLIAM IV. 

 By the Late CHARLES C. F. GREVILLE, Esq. Clerk of the Council to Those Sovereigns

 Edited by HENRY REEVE Registrar of the Privy Council

 IN THREE VOLUMES VOL. I. 

 Second Edition

 LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1874

 PREFACE BY THE EDITOR

The Author of these Journals requested me, in January 1865, a fewdays before his death, to take charge of them with a view topublication at some future time. He left that time to mydiscretion, merely remarking that Memoirs of this kind ought not, in his opinion, to be locked up until they had lost theirprincipal interest by the death of all those who had taken anypart in the events they describe. He placed several of theearlier volumes at once in my hands, and he intimated to hissurviving brother and executor, Mr. Henry Greville, his desirethat the remainder should be given me for this purpose. Theinjunction was at once complied with after Mr. Charles Greville'sdeath, and this interesting deposit has now remained for nearlyten years in my possession. In my opinion this period of time islong enough to remove every reasonable objection to thepublication of a contemporary record of events already separatedfrom us by a much longer interval, for the transactions relatedin these volumes commence in 1818 and end in 1837. I thereforecommit to the press that portion of these Memoirs which embracesthe Reigns of King George IV. And King William IV. , ending withthe Accession of her present Majesty. 

In accepting the trust and deposit which Mr. Greville thought fitto place in my hands, I felt, and still feel, that I undertook atask and a duty of considerable responsibility; but from the timeand the manner in which it was offered me I could not decline it. I had lived for more than five-and-twenty years in the dailyintercourse of official life and private friendship with Mr. Greville. Sir George Cornewall Lewis, to whom he had previouslyintended to leave these Journals, died before him. After thatevent, deeply to be regretted on so many accounts, Mr. Grevilledid me the honour to select me for the performance of this duty, which was unexpected by myself; and my strong attachment andgratitude to him for numberless acts of kindness and marks ofconfidence bound me by every consideration to obey and executethe wishes of my late friend. 

In the discharge of this trust I have been guided by no othermotive than the desire to present these Memorials to the world ina manner which their Author would not have disapproved, and instrict conformity with his own wishes and injunctions. Hehimself, it should be said, had frequently revised them withgreat care. He had studiously omitted and erased passagesrelating to private persons or affairs, which could only serve togratify the love of idle gossip and scandal. The Journals containabsolutely nothing relating to his own family, and but littlerelating to his private life. In a passage (not now published) ofhis own writings, the Author remarks:--

 'A journal to be good, true, and interesting, should be written without the slightest reference to publication, but without any fear of it: it should be the transcript of a mind that can bear transcribing. I always contemplate the possibility that hereafter my journal will be read, and I regard with alarm and dislike the notion of its containing matters about myself which nobody will care to know' (January 2nd, 1838). 

These notes were designed chiefly to preserve a record of theless known causes and details of public events which came underthe Author's observation, and they are interspersed with theconversations of many of the eminent men with whom he associated. But it must be borne in mind that they are essentially what theyprofess to be--a _contemporary_ record of facts and opinions, notaltered or made up to square with subsequent experience. Hencesome facts may be inaccurately stated, because they are given inthe shape they assumed at the time they were recorded, and someopinions and judgments on men and things are at variance (as hehimself acknowledges and points out) with those at which thewriter afterwards arrived on the same persons and subjects. Ourimpressions of what is passing around us vary so rapidly and socontinually, that a contemporary record of opinion, honestlypreserved, differs very widely from the final and mature judgmentof history: yet the judgment of history must be based uponcontemporary evidence. It was remarked by an acute observer toMr. Greville himself, that the _nuances_ in political society areso delicate and numerous, the details so nice and varying, thatunless caught at the moment they escape, and it is impossible tocollect them again. That is the charm and the merit of genuinecontemporary records. 

The two leading qualities in the mind of Mr. Greville were thelove of truth and the love of justice. His natural curiosity, which led him to track out and analyse the causes of events withgreat eagerness, was stimulated by the desire to arrive at theirreal origin, and to award to everyone, with judicial impartiality, what appeared to him to be a just share of responsibility. Without the passions or the motives of a party politician, heardently sympathised with the cause of Liberal progress andConservative improvement, or, as he himself expresses it, withConservative principles on a Liberal basis. He was equallyopposed to the prejudices of the old Tory aristocracy, amongstwhom he had been brought up, and to the impetuous desire ofchange which achieved in his time so many vast and varioustriumphs. His own position, partly from the nature of thepermanent office he held in the Privy Council, and partly fromhis personal intimacies with men of very opposite opinions, was aneutral one; but he used that neutral position with consummatejudgment and address to remove obstacles, to allay irritations, to compose differences, and to promote, as far as lay in hispower, the public welfare. Contented with his own socialposition, he was alike free from ambition and from vanity. No manwas more entirely disinterested in his judgments on publicaffairs, for he had long made up his mind that he had nothing togain or to lose by them, and in the opinions he formed, and onoccasion energetically maintained, he cared for nothing but theirjustice and their truth. I trust that I do not deceive myself inthe belief that the impressions of such a man, faithfullyrendered at the time, on the events happening around him, will bethought to possess a permanent value and interest. But I am awarethat opinions governed by no party standard will appear to acertain extent to be fluctuating and even inconsistent. I havenot thought it consistent with my duty as the Editor of thesepapers to suppress or modify any of the statements or opinions oftheir Author on public men or public events; nor do I hold myselfin any way responsible for the tenor of them. Some of thesejudgments of the writer may be thought harsh and severe, and someof them were subsequently mitigated by himself. But those whoenter public life submit their conduct and their lives to thejudgment of their contemporaries and of posterity, and this isespecially true of those who fill the most exalted stations insociety. Every act, almost every thought, which is brought hometo them leaves its mark, and those who come after them cannotcomplain that this mark is as indelible as their fame. The onlyomissions I have thought it right to make are a few passages andexpressions relating to persons and occurrences in private life, in which I have sought to publish nothing which could give painor annoyance to persons still alive. 

It will be observed that these Journals begin in the year 1818, when Mr. Greville was barely twenty-four years of age, and indeedI possess some notes of an earlier period, which it was notthought desirable to include in this publication. At that age Mr. Greville had but a short experience of life, without theopportunities of information which he subsequently enjoyed;consequently the first two or three chapters of the first volumeare of secondary interest, and the political value of the workbegins with the retirement of Lord Liverpool. But it is by hisown express desire that these chapters are retained to completethe series, and the particulars relating to the Duke of York andto the Queen's trial are not without interest. As the Authoradvanced in life his narrative increases in value both insubstance and in style, and the most important portion of it isthat which must at present be reserved for future publication. 

Of the Author of these Journals it may suffice to say thatCharles Cavendish Fulke Greville was the eldest of the three sonsof Charles Greville (who was grandson of the fifth Lord Warwick), by Lady Charlotte Cavendish Bentinck, eldest daughter of WilliamHenry, third Duke of Portland, K. G. , who filled many greatoffices of State. He was born on the 2nd of April, 1794. Much ofhis childhood was spent at his grandfather's house at Bulstrode. He was educated at Eton and at Christ Church, Oxford; but he leftthe University early, having been appointed private secretary toEarl Bathurst before he was twenty. 

The influence of the Duke of Portland obtained for him early inlife the sinecure appointment of the Secretaryship of Jamaica, the duties of that office being performed by deputy, and likewisethe reversion of the Clerkship of the Council. He entered in 1821upon the duties of Clerk of the Council in Ordinary, which hedischarged for nearly forty years. During the last twenty yearsof his life Mr. Greville occupied a suite of rooms in the houseof Earl Granville in Bruton Street, and there, on the 18th ofJanuary, 1865, he expired. I was with him on the previous eveninguntil he retired to rest; from that sleep he never woke. 

No additions whatever have been made to the text of theseJournals. The passages occasionally interposed in a parenthesis, at a later date, to correct or comment upon a previous statement, are all by the hand of the Author. So likewise are the notesdistinguished by no mark. For the notes included in brackets []the Editor is responsible. 

 Henry Reeve. October 1st, 1874

 Contents of the First Volume

 CHAPTER I. 

Queen Charlotte--Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge-- Westminster Election--Contest between Sir Francis Burdett and Sir Murray Maxwell--London Election--Oatlands--The Duke of York--Duchess of York--Ampthill--Tixall--Mr. Luttrell--Lady Granville--Teddesley--Macao--Burleigh--Middleton--Lady Jersey-- The New Parliament--Tierney and Pitt--Princess Lieven--Madame de Staël on the French Revolution--Westminster Election-- Hobhouse Defeated--Scarlett's Maiden Speech--Influence of Party--Play--The Persian Ambassador at Court--Prince Leopold-- Woburn--Anecdote of the Allies--Death of George III. --Illness of George IV. --Queen Caroline--Fleury de Chabaulon--The Cato Street Conspiracy--George IV. At Ascot--Marchioness of Conyngham--Queen Caroline in London--Message to Parliament-- Debates--Insubordination in the Guards--Wilberforce's Motion-- Proceedings against the Queen--'Les Liaisons dangereuses'--The Queen's Trial--The Duke of Wellington on the Battle of Waterloo and the Occupation of Paris. Page 1

 CHAPTER II. 

Popularity of George IV. --The Duke of York's Racing Establishment--Clerk of the Council--Lord Liverpool and Mr. Sumner--Lady Conyngham--Death of Lady Worcester--Her Character--Ball at Devonshire House--The Duke of York's Aversion to the Duke of Wellington--The Pavilion at Brighton-- Lord Francis Conyngham--The King and the Duke of Wellington-- Death of the Marquis of Londonderry--His Policy--Sir B. Bloomfield sent to Stockholm--Mr. Canning's Foreign Secretary-- Queen Caroline and Brougham--Canning and George IV. --Lord William Bentinck aspires to go to India--His Disappointment-- The Duke of York's Duel with Colonel Lennox--George III. 's Will--George IV. Appropriates the late King's Personal Property--The Duke of Wellington on the Congress of Verona and on the Politics of Europe--Intervention in Spain--Ferdinand VII. --M. De Villèle--The Duke's Opinion of Napoleon--Sir William Knighton--The Duke of York's Anecdotes of George IV. -- Death of the Marquis of Titchfield--His Character Page 43

 CHAPTER III. 

The Panic of 1825--Death of the Emperor Alexander--The Duke of Wellington's Embassy to St. Petersburg--Robinson Chancellor of the Exchequer--Small Notes Bill--Death of Arthur de Ros--George III. And Lord Bute--Illness and Death of the Duke of York--His Funeral--Lord Liverpool struck with Paralysis--Rundell's Fortune and Will--Copley and Phillpotts--The Cottage--Formation of Mr. Canning's Administration--Secession of the Tories--The Whigs join him--Dinner at the Royal Lodge--Difficulties of Canning's Government--Duke of Wellington visits the King-- Canning's Death--Anecdotes of Mr. Canning--Recognition of South American States--His Industry--The Duke of Wellington on Canning--Lord Goderich's Administration formed--The Difficulty about Herries--Position of the Whigs--The King's Letter to Herries--Peel and George IV. --Interview of Lord Lansdowne with the King--Weakness of the Government--First Resignation of Lord Goderich--Lord Harrowby declines the Premiership--Lord Goderich returns--Brougham and Rogers--Conversation and Character of Brougham--Lord Goderich's Ministry dissolved--Cause of its Dissolution--Hostility of Herries--Position of Huskisson and his Friends--Herries and Huskisson both join the New Cabinet Page 77

 CHAPTER IV. 

The Duke of Wellington's Administration--Huskisson's Speech-- Irritation of Mr. Canning's Friends--Tom Duncombe's Maiden Speech--Mr. Huskisson resigns and the Canningites quit the Government--Princess Lieven hostile to the Duke--The Catholic Question--Jockey Club Dinner at St. James's--Lord Lyndhurst-- Sir Robert Adair--Fox and Burke--Fox and Pitt--The Lord High Admiral dismissed by the King--Dawson's Speech on Catholic Emancipation--The King's Health--His Pages--State of Ireland-- Marquis of Anglesey--O'Connell--His Influence in Ireland--Lord Belmore Governor of Jamaica--The Duke's Letter to Dr. Curtis-- Recall of Lord Anglesey from Ireland--Causes of this Event-- Excitement of the King on the Catholic Question--His Aversion to Sir William Knighton--Character of George IV. --Denman's Silk Gown--Pension to Lady Westmeath--Duke of Wellington on Russia-- The Reis-Effendi--Duke of Northumberland goes to Ireland--Privy Council Register--State Paper Office--The Gunpowder Plot-- Catholic Emancipation--Navarino Page 124

 CHAPTER V. 

The Catholic Relief Bill--Inconsistency of the Tories--The Catholic Association--Dinner at Charles Grant's--The Terceira Expedition--Tory Discontent--Peel resigns his Seat for Oxford University--A Blunder in Chancery--The Oxford Election-- Influence of the Duke of Wellington--Debate of Royal Dukes-- Peel beaten--Sir Edward Codrington--Violence of the King-- Intrigues to defeat the Catholic Bill--The Duke of Cumberland-- Furious State of Parties--Matuscewitz--Peel's Speech on Catholic Emancipation--Exclusion of O'Connell from his Seat for Clare--Pitt's View of Catholic Emancipation--'Musae Cateatonenses'--'Thorough'--Mr. Lowther not turned out--Duke of Newcastle's Audience of George IV. --The King's Personal Habits--The Debate--Mr. Sadler--Hardness of the Duke of Wellington--His Duel with Lord Winchelsea--The Bishops and the Bill--Sir Charles Wetherell--The King on the Duel--Lord Winchelsea's Pocket-handkerchief--Debate on the Catholic Bill-- The Duke of Richmond--Effects of Dawson's Speech on the King-- The Bill in Jeopardy--Lady Jersey and Lord Anglesey--Lord Falmouth and Lord Grey--O'Connell at Dinner--The Duke breaks with Lord Eldon--Hibner the Murderess--Theatrical Fund--The Levee--The Duke's Carriage stopped--The King's Health--Lady Conyngham--O'Connell's Seat--Child's Ball at Court--Princess Victoria--Legal Appointments--Lord Palmerston on Foreign Affairs--The King and Lord Sefton--The King's Speech on the Prorogation--Madame Du Cayla--George IV. 's Inaccuracy-- Conversation of the Duke of Wellington on the King and the Duke of Cumberland Page 166

 CHAPTER VI. 

The Recorder's Report--Manners of George IV--Intrigues of the Duke of Cumberland--Insults Lady Lyndhurst--Deacon Hume at the Board of Trade--Quarrel between the Duke of Cumberland and the Lord Chancellor--A Bad Season--Prostration of Turkey--France under Polignac--State of Ireland--Mr. Windham's Diary--George IV. 's Eyesight--Junius--A Man without Money--Court-martial on Captain Dickenson--The Duke and the 'Morning Journal'--Physical Courage of the King--A Charade at Chatsworth--Huskisson and the Duke--Irish Trials--Tom Moore--Scott--Byron--Fanny Kemble--Sir James Mackintosh--His Conversation--Black Irishmen--Moore's Irish Story--Moore's Singing--George IV. And Mr. Denman-- Strawberry Hill--Moore at Trinity College--Indian Vengeance at Niagara--Count Woronzow--Lord Glengall's Play--The Recorder's Report Page 221

 CHAPTER VII. 

Chapter of the Bath--The Duc de Dino arrested--A Ball to the Divan--English Policy in Greece--Sir Thomas Lawrence-- Gallatin--Court of King's Bench--Accident to the Grand Duke Constantine--Osterley--Young Sidney Herbert--Duke of Wellington in Office--Stapleton's 'Life of Canning'--Death of Sir Thomas Lawrence--Leopold and the Throne of Greece--Canning's Answers to Lord Grey--Distressed State of the Country--Canning's Greatness and his Failings--Death of Tierney--Sir Martin Shee President--The Duke of Wellington's Views and Conduct--The coming Session--Moore's 'Life of Byron'--Character of Byron-- Opening of Parliament--The Fire King--The Duke of Wellington's Speaking--The English Opera House burnt down--Lord Thurlow on Kenyon and Buller--Old Rothschild--Lansdowne House--Earl Stanhope--John Murray--Departure for Italy Page 254

 CHAPTER VIII. 

Calais--Beau Brummell--Paris--The Polignac Ministry--Polignac and Charles X. --The Duke of Orleans--State of Parties--Talleyrand-- Lyons--First Impressions of Mountain Scenery--Mont Cenis-- Turin--Marengo--Genoa--Road to Florence--Pisa--Florence--Lord and Lady Burghersh--Thorwaldsen--Lord Cochrane--Rome--St. Peter's--Frascati--Grotto Ferrata--Queen Hortense and Louis Napoleon--Coliseum--Death of Lady Northampton--The Moses-- Gardens--Palm Sunday--Sistine Chapel--The Cardinals--Popes-- Cardinal Albani--The Farnese Palace--A Dead Cardinal--Pasquin-- Statue of Pompey--Galleries and Catacombs--Bunsen--The Papal Benediction--Ceremonies of the Holy Week--The Grand Penitentiary--A Confession--Protestant Cemetery--Illumination of St. Peter's--Torlonia--Bunsen on the Forum Page 282

 CHAPTER IX. 

Lake of Albano--Velletri--Naples--Rapid Travelling in 1830--A Trial at Naples--Deciphering Manuscripts--Ball at the Duchesse d'Eboli's--Matteis's Plot and Trial--Pompeii--Taking the Veil-- Pausilippo--Baiae--La Cava--Salerno--Paestum--Lazaroni--Museum of Naples--Grotto del Cane--The Camaldoli--Herculaneum-- Vesuvius--Sorrento--Miracle of St. Januarius--Astroni--Farewell to Naples Page 331

 CHAPTER X. 

Moladi Gaeta--Capua--Lines on leaving Naples--Return to Rome--The Aqueducts--'Domine, quo vadis?'--St. Peter's--The Scala Santa-- Reasons in Favour of San Gennaro--Ascent of St. Peter's-- Library of the Vatican--A racing _ex voto_--Illness of George IV. --Approaching _Coup d'État_ in France--The Villa Mills--The Malaria--Duc and Duchesse de Dalberg--The Emperor Nicholas on his Accession--Cardinal Albani--A _Columbarium_--Maii--Sir William Gell--Tivoli--Hadrian's Villa--The Adventures of Miss Kelly and Mr. Swift--Audience of the Pope--Gibson's Studio--End of Miss Kelly's Marriage--A Great Function--The Jesuits-- Saint-making--San Lorenzo in Lucina--The Flagellants--Statues by Torchlight--Bunsen on the State of Rome--Frascati--Relations of Protestant States with Rome--The French Ministry--M. De Villèle--The Coliseum--Excommunication of a Thief--The Passionists--The Corpus Domini--A Rash Marriage--Farewell to Rome--Falls of Terni--Statue at Pratolino--Bologna-- Mezzofanti--Ferrara--Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Brescia--Verona-- Milan--Lago Maggiore--The Simplon--Geneva--Paris Page 350

 NOTE. 

Mr. Greville's Connexion with the Turf. 

 A JOURNAL of the REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE FOURTH

 CHAPTER I. 

Queen Charlotte--Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge-- Westminster Election--Contest between Sir Francis Burdett and Sir Murray Maxwell--London Election--Oatlands--The Duke of York--Duchess of York--Ampthill--Tixall--Mr. Luttrell--Lady Granville--Teddesley--Macao--Burleigh--Middleton--Lady Jersey-- The New Parliament--Tierney and Pitt--Princess Lieven--Madame de Staël on the French Revolution--Westminster Election-- Hobhouse Defeated--Scarlett's Maiden Speech--Influence of Party--Play--The Persian Ambassador at Court--Prince Leopold-- Woburn--Anecdote of the Allies--Death of George III. --Illness of George IV. --Queen Caroline--Fleury de Chabaulon--The Cato Street Conspiracy--George IV. At Ascot--Marchioness of Conyngham--Queen Caroline in London--Message to Parliament-- Debates--Insubordination in the Guards--Wilberforce's Motion-- Proceedings against the Queen--'Les Liaisons dangereuses'--The Queen's Trial--The Duke of Wellington on the Battle of Waterloo and the Occupation of Paris. 

 1818. 

I began to keep a Journal some time ago, and, after continuing itirregularly, dropped it entirely. I have since felt tempted toresume it, because, having frequent opportunities of mixing inthe society of celebrated men, some particulars about them mightbe interesting hereafter. 

[Page Head: LAST YEARS OF THE REGENCY. ]

June 7th, 1818 {p. 001}

The dissolution of Parliament is deferred on account of themistakes which have been made in passing the Alien Bill. OnFriday night the exultation of the Opposition was very great atwhat they deemed a victory over the Ministers. It is said thatthere will be 100 contests, and that Government will lose twentyor thirty members. The Queen was so ill on Friday evening thatthey expected she would die. She had a severe spasm. [1]

 [1] [Queen Charlotte, consort of George III. , died on the 17th of November of this year, 1818. ]

The Duchess of Cambridge[2] has been received in a mostflattering manner here, and it is said that the Duchess ofCumberland is severely mortified at the contrast between herreception and that of her sister-in-law. On the Sunday after herarrival the Duke took her to walk in the Park, when she was soterrified by the pressure of the mob about her that she nearlyfainted away. 

 [2] [Prince Adolphus Frederick, Duke of Cambridge, seventh son of George III. , married on the 7th of May, 1818, Augusta Wilhelmina Louisa, Princess of Hesse, youngest daughter of the Landgrave of Hesse-Cassel. Ernest, Duke of Cumberland, the King's fourth son, married on the 29th of August, 1815, at Strelitz, the Princess Frederica, third daughter of the Duke of Mecklenburg-Strelitz. This lady had been twice married before, first to Prince Frederic Louis Charles of Prussia, and secondly to the Prince of Salms-Braunfels. As the Duchess of Cumberland had been divorced from her last husband, the Queen received her with great coldness; and the position in which she was placed contrasted strongly with that of the Duchess of Cambridge on her marriage. ]

The Regent drives in the Park every day in a tilbury, with hisgroom sitting by his side; grave men are shocked at thisundignified practice. 

June 21st, 1818 {p. 002}

I dined at Holland House last Thursday. The party consisted ofLord Lansdowne, Mr. Frere, and Mrs. Tierney and her son. Afterdinner Mr. Frere repeated to us a great deal of that part of'Whistlecraft' which is not yet published. [3] I laughed wheneverI could, but as I have never read the first part, and did notunderstand the second, I was not so much amused as the rest ofthe company. 

 [3] [The whole poem of 'Whistlecraft' has since been republished in the collected works of the Right Hon. Hookham Frere. ]

On Friday I went to the Stud-house, where a great party wasassembled to see the stock and buy them. After visiting thepaddocks, Bloomfield[4] gave a magnificent dinner to the companyin a tent near the house; it was the finest feast I ever saw, butthe badness of the weather spoilt the entertainment. 

 [4] [Sir Benjamin Bloomfield filled the offices of Marshal and Chief Equerry to the Regent, and in 1817 he became Receiver-General of the Duchy of Cornwall and Keeper of the Privy Purse to the Prince. The Stud-house of Hampton Court had been given him as a residence. He was raised to the peerage in 1825. ]

The Queen's illness was occasioned by information which shereceived of the Duchesses of Cumberland and Cambridge having metand embraced. This meeting took place as if by accident, butreally by appointment, in Kew Gardens; and the Duke of Cambridgehimself informed the Queen of it. She was in such a rage that thespasm was brought on, and she was very near dying. 

[Page Head: A GENERAL ELECTION. ]

June 24th, 1818 {p. 003}

The elections are carried on with great violence, and every daywe hear of fresh contests being in agitation. The disgracefulscenes which have taken place in Westminster excite universalshame and indignation. The mob seem to have shaken off thefeelings and the usual character of Englishmen, and in the brutalattacks which they have made on Captain Maxwell have displayedthe savage ferocity which marked the mobs of Paris in the worsttimes. He has been so much hurt that his life is now in danger. Sir F. Burdett told me this morning that as soon as he was at thehead of the poll he thought he should appear upon the hustingsand thank the people for having raised him thus high. It issupposed that Burdett has laid out £10, 000. On this election, though his friends do not acknowledge that he has spent anything. It is clear that the open houses, cockades, and bands of music wehave seen these three days were not procured for nothing. 

Lord Castlereagh went to the hustings, and voted for Sir MurrayMaxwell; he was hooted, pelted, and got off with some difficulty. His Lordship's judgment was not very conspicuous on thisoccasion; both Sir Murray's friends and enemies are of opinionthat Lord Castlereagh's vote did him a great deal of harm andturned many men against him. The severest contests will be inWiltshire, Herefordshire, Devonshire, and Lincolnshire. Theelections are going against Government generally; in Londonparticularly, as the Ministers lose one seat in the Borough andtwo in the City. This last election is the most unexpected ofall. Curtis has been member for twenty-eight years, and has beenused to come in very high on the poll. On this occasion thecontest between him and Alderman Thorpe was severe, but Curtiswould have carried it had not Wood and Waithman coalesced withThorpe the last day, and thrown their spare votes over to him;this determined the election in his favour. [5]

 [5] [Sir William Curtis was the Ministerial candidate in the City of London; he was thrown out, and Messrs. Wood, Waithman, Wilson, and Thorpe were returned. ]

June 30th, 1818 {p. 004}

There was an affray yesterday afternoon in Covent Garden. SirMurray Maxwell's people paraded about a large boat drawn by sixhorses. Burdett's mob attacked and demolished the boat, and thisaction having raised their spirits, the contest continued. Theconsequence was that a large party of Horse Guards were marchedinto Covent Garden, and paraded there during the rest of thenight. The people expressed their discontent by cries of 'This iswhat they call freedom of election!' 'Burdett for ever!' &c. [6]

 [6] [The Westminster election terminated as follows:--Sir Samuel Romilly, 5, 339; Sir Francis Burdett, 5, 238; Sir Murray Maxwell, 4, 808; Henry Hunt, 84. ]

August 4th, 1818 {p. 004}

I went to Oatlands[7] on Saturday. There was a very large party--Mr. And Mrs. Burrell, Lord Alvanley, Berkeley Craven, Cooke, Arthur Upton, Armstrong, Foley, Lord Lauderdale, Lake, Page, LordYarmouth. We played at whist till four in the morning. On Sundaywe amused ourselves with eating fruit in the garden, and shootingat a mark with pistols, and playing with the monkeys. I bathed inthe cold bath in the grotto, which is as clear as crystal and ascold as ice. Oatlands is the worst managed establishment inEngland; there are a great many servants, and nobody waits onyou; a vast number of horses, and none to ride or drive. 

 [7] [Oatlands Park, Weybridge, at that time the residence of the Duke of York. ]

[Page Head: DUKE AND DUCHESS OF YORK. ]

August 15th, 1818 {p. 004}

The parties at Oatlands take place every Saturday, and the guestsgo away on Monday morning. These parties begin as soon as theDuchess leaves London, and last till the October meetings. Duringthe Egham races there is a large party which remains there fromthe Saturday before the races till the Monday se'nnightfollowing; this is called the Duchess's party, and she invitesthe guests. The Duke is only there himself from Saturday toMonday. There are almost always the same people, sometimes more, sometimes less. We dine at eight, and sit at table till eleven. In about a quarter of an hour after we leave the dining-room theDuke sits down to play at whist, and never stirs from the tableas long as anybody will play with him. When anybody gives anyhint of being tired he will leave off, but if he sees no signs ofweariness in others he will never stop himself. He is equallywell amused whether the play is high or low, but the stake heprefers is fives and ponies. [8] The Duchess generally plays alsoat half-crown whist. The Duke always gets up very early, whatevertime he may go to bed. On Sunday morning he goes to church, returns to a breakfast of tea and cold meat, and afterwards ridesor walks till the evening. On Monday morning he always sets offto London at nine o'clock. He sleeps equally well in a bed or ina carriage. The Duchess seldom goes to bed, or, if she does, onlyfor an hour or two; she sleeps dressed upon a couch, sometimes inone room, sometimes in another. She frequently walks out verylate at night, or rather early in the morning, and she alwayssleeps with open windows. She dresses and breakfasts at threeo'clock, afterwards walks out with all her dogs, and seldomappears before dinner-time. At night, when she cannot sleep, shehas women to read to her. The Duchess of York[9] is clever andwell-informed; she likes society and dislikes all form andceremony, but in the midst of the most familiar intercourse shealways preserves a certain dignity of manner. Those who are inthe habit of going to Oatlands are perfectly at their ease withher, and talk with as much freedom as they would to any otherwoman, but always with great respect. Her mind is not perhaps themost delicate; she shows no dislike to coarseness of sentiment orlanguage, and I have seen her very much amused with jokes, stories, and allusions which would shock a very nice person. Buther own conversation is never polluted with anything the leastindelicate or unbecoming. She is very sensible to littleattentions, and is annoyed if anybody appears to keep aloof fromher or to shun conversing with her. Her dogs are her greatestinterest and amusement, and she has at least forty of variouskinds. She is delighted when anybody gives her a dog, or amonkey, or a parrot, of all of which she has a vast number; it isimpossible to offend her or annoy her more than by ill-using anyof her dogs, and if she were to see anybody beat or kick any oneof them she would never forgive it. She has always lived on goodterms with the Royal Family, but is intimate with none of them, and goes as little as possible to Court. The Regent dislikes her, and she him. With the Princess Charlotte she was latterly veryintimate, spent a great deal of time at Claremont, and felt herdeath very severely. The Duchess has no taste for splendour ormagnificence, and likes to live the life of a private individualas much as possible. 

 [8] [Five-pound points and twenty-five pounds on the rubber. ]

 [9] [The Duchess of York was born Princess Royal of Prussia; she married the Duke of York in 1791, and died on the 6th of August, 1820. ]

[Page Head: DUKE AND DUCHESS OF YORK. ]

The Duke of York is not clever, but he has a justness ofunderstanding, which enables him to avoid the errors into whichmost of his brothers have fallen, and which have made them socontemptible and unpopular. Although his talents are notrated high, and in public life he has never been honourablydistinguished, the Duke of York is loved and respected. He is theonly one of the Princes who has the feelings of an Englishgentleman; his amiable disposition and excellent temper haveconciliated for him the esteem and regard of men of all parties, and he has endeared himself to his friends by the warmth andsteadiness of his attachments, and from the implicit confidencethey all have in his truth, straightforwardness, and sincerity. He delights in the society of men of the world and in a life ofgaiety and pleasure. He is very easily amused, and particularlywith jokes full of coarseness and indelicacy; the men with whomhe lives most are _très-polissons_, and _la polissonnerie_ is the_ton_ of his society. But his aides-de-camp and friends, whilethey do not scruple to say everything before and to him, alwaystreat him with attention and respect. The Duke and the Duchesslive upon the best terms; their manner to one another is cordial, and while full of mutual respect and attention, they followseparately their own occupations and amusements withoutinterfering with one another. Their friends are common to both, and those who are most attached to the Duke are equally so to theDuchess. One of her few foibles is an extreme tenaciousness ofher authority at Oatlands; one way in which this is shown is inthe stable, where, although there are always eight or tencarriage-horses which seldom do any work, it is impossible everto procure a horse to ride or drive, because the Duchessappropriates them all to herself. The other day one of theaides-de-camp (Cooke) wanted to drive Burrell (who was there) toHampton Court; he spoke of this at breakfast, and the Dukehearing it, desired he would take the curricle and two Spanishhorses which had been given to him. The Duchess, however, choseto call these horses hers and to consider them as her own. Thecurricle came to the door, and just as they were going to mountit a servant came from the Duchess (who had heard of it) and toldthe coachman that her Royal Highness knew nothing of it, had notordered it, and that the curricle must go home, which itaccordingly did. 

September 3rd, 1818 {p. 007}

I went to Oatlands for the Egham races. The party lasted morethan a week; there was a great number of people, and it was veryagreeable. Erskine was extremely mad; he read me some of hisverses, and we had a dispute upon religious subjects one morning, which he finished by declaring his entire disbelief in the Mosaichistory. We played at whist every night that the Duke was there, and I always won. The Duchess was unwell most of the time. Weshowed her a _galanterie_ which pleased her very much. Sheproduced a picture of herself one evening, which she said she wasgoing to send to the Duchess of Orleans; we all cried out, saidit was bad, and asked her why she did not let Lawrence paint herpicture, and send a miniature copied from that. She declared shecould not afford it; we then said, if she would sit, we would payfor the picture, which she consented to do, when all the menpresent signed a paper, desiring that a picture should be paintedand a print taken from it of her Royal Highness. Lawrence is tobe invited to Oatlands at Christmas to paint the picture. The menwho subscribe are Culling Smith, Alvanley, B. Craven, Worcester, Armstrong, A. Upton, Rogers, Luttrell, and myself, who werepresent. The Duchess desired that Greenwood and Taylor might beadded. From Oatlands I went to Cirencester, where I stayed a weekand then returned to Oatlands, expecting to find the Queen deadand the house empty, but I found the party still there. 

Ampthill, [10] September 9th, 1818 {p. 008}

I rode down here to-day, Alvanley and Montrond came in a chaiseand four, and were only three hours and three-quarters comingfrom town. Luttrell and Rogers are here. The dinner very bad, because the cook is out of humour. The evening passed offheavily. 

 [10] [Ampthill Park, at that time the seat of Lord and Lady Holland, who had inherited it from the Earl of Upper Ossory. On the death of Lady Holland Ampthill was purchased by the Duke of Bedford, and has since been inhabited by Lord and Lady Wensleydale. ]

Ampthill, September 11th, 1818 {p. 008}

The Duke and Duchess of San Carlos came yesterday with their twodaughters, one of whom is fourteen and the other twelve orthirteen years old. The eldest is betrothed to the CountAltimira, a boy of seventeen years old, son of one of the richestSpanish grandees. He has £70, 000 a year. The Duke of Medina-Coelibefore the French invasion had £215, 000 a year. 

Lord Holland was talking to Mr. Fox the day after the debate onthe war (after the Peace of Amiens) about public speakers, andmentioned Sheridan's speech on the Begums. Fox said, 'You mayrest assured that that speech was the finest that ever was madein Parliament. ' Lord Holland said, 'It is very well of you to sayso, but I think your speech last night was a pretty good one. 'Fox said, 'And that was a devilish fine speech too. '

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF MR. LUTTRELL. ]

Teddesley, November 30th, 1818 {p. 009}

I went to Tixall[11] on Tuesday, the 10th of November. There wereLuttrell, Nugent, Montagu, Granville Somerset (who went away thenext day), and afterwards Granville Vernon, Wilmot, and Mr. Donald. I never remember so agreeable a party--'le bon goût, lesris, l'aimable liberté. ' Everybody was pleased because each didwhat he pleased, and the tone of the society was gay, simple, andclever. 

 [11] [Tixall, the seat of Sir Clifford Constable in Staffordshire, was let at this time to Lord and Lady Granville. ]

It is hardly possible to live with a more agreeable man thanLuttrell. He is difficult to please, but when pleased and in goodspirits, full of vivacity. He has a lively imagination, a greatdeal of instruction, and a very retentive memory, a memoryparticularly happy for social purposes, for he recollects athousand anecdotes, fine allusions, odd expressions, or happyremarks, applicable to the generality of topics which fall underdiscussion. He is extremely sensitive, easily disconcerted, andresents want of tact in others, because he is so liable to sufferfrom any breach of it. A sceptic in religion, and by no meansaustere in morals, he views with indulgence all faults exceptthose which are committed against society, but he looks upon abore with unconcealed aversion. He is attached to a few personswhose talents he respects and whose society he covets, buttowards the world in general he is rather misanthropical, andprides himself upon being free from the prejudices which heridicules and despises more or less in everybody else. Detestingthe importance and the superiority which are assumed by those whohave only riches or rank to boast of, he delights in London, where such men find their proper level, and where genius andability always maintain an ascendancy over pomp, vanity, and theadventitious circumstances of birth or position. Born inmystery, [12] he has always shrouded himself in a secresy whichnone of his acquaintance have ever endeavoured to penetrate. Hehas connections, but they are unknown or only guessed at. He hasoccupations, amusements, and interests unconnected with thesociety in which he publicly moves. Of these he never speaks, andno one ever ventures to ask him any questions. Ostensibly he hasno friend. Standing thus alone in the world, he derives butlittle of his happiness from others; and he seems to delight inthe independence of his feelings as well as of his situation. Heis very witty and says excellent things, brilliant in generalsociety and pleasant in _tête-à-tête. _ Many men infinitely lessclever _converse_ more agreeably than he does, because he is tooepigrammatic, and has accustomed himself so much to makebrilliant observations that he cannot easily descend to quiet, unlaboured talk. This only applies to him when in generalsociety; when alone with another person he talks as agreeably aspossible. 

 [12] [Mr. Luttrell was believed to be a natural son of Lord Carhampton. He had sat in the last Irish Parliament before the Union, and died about 1855 at a very advanced age. ]

Nugent is clever, and in many respects a more amiable companionthan Luttrell, though very inferior to him in ability. He iswell-informed, gentlemanlike, sensible, with good manners, goodtaste, and has a talent for music; he is always in good humour, and discriminating without being difficult. 

Lady Granville[13] has a great deal of genial humour, strongfeelings, enthusiasm, delicacy, refinement, good taste, _naïveté_which just misses being affectation, and a _bonhomie_ whichextends to all around her. 

 [13] [Henrietta Elizabeth, daughter of William, fifth Duke of Devonshire, married in 1809 to Lord Granville Leveson Gower, created Viscount Granville in 1815, and Earl Granville in 1833, during his embassy at the Court of France. ]

Nothing could exceed the agreeableness of the life we led atTixall. We breakfasted about twelve or later, dined at seven, played at whist and macao the whole evening, and went to bed atdifferent hours between two and four. 'Nous faisions la bonnechère, ce qui ajoute beaucoup à l'agrément de la société. Je nedis pas ceci par rapport à mes propres goûts; mais parce que jel'ai observé, et que les philosophes n'y sont pas plus indifférentsque les bons vivants. '

[Page Head: PARTY AT TIXALL. ]

When the party at Tixall was over we all removed to Teddesley. Littleton[14] is good-natured, liberal, hospitable, and anxiousto oblige, but he wants tact, and his table is more copious thanrefined. The house is ugly and in an ugly situation; the roomsare small, but not ill furnished. The dinners were not good, andLuttrell and Nugent were both very angry at the badness of thefare. We had a brilliant _chasse_. Luttrell left Teddesley onMonday, the Granvilles on Sunday, and Nugent and I on Tuesday; wetravelled together to Oxford. He is very agreeable, full ofinformation, and has a great facility in expressing himself. Weparted at Oxford. I went to Redrice, and came to town on Sunday. 

 [14] [Edward Littleton, Esq. , at that time M. P. For the county of Stafford; raised to the Privy Council in 1833, when he became Chief Secretary for Ireland, and to the peerage under the title of Baron Hatherton in 1835. ]

Tixall was the most agreeable party I ever was at. We were allpleased and satisfied; we played at whist, and afterwards atmacao. Littleton was the greatest winner and Lord Granville theloser. I wrote a description of the macao in verse:--

 _MACAO_

 The solemn chime from out the ancient tower[15] Invites to Macao at th' accustomed hour. The welcome summons heard, around the board Each takes his seat and counts his iv'ry hoard. 'Tis strange to see how in the early rounds The cautious punters risk their single pounds, Till, fired with generous rage, they double stake And offer more than prudent dealers take. My Lady[16] through her glass with keen delight Observes the brisk beginnings of the fight; To some propitious, but to me unkind, With candour owns the bias of her mind, And asks of Fortune the severe decree T' enrich the happy Skew, [17] to ruin me. The fickle Goddess heard one-half the prayer, The rest was melted into empty air; For while she smiled complacent on the Skew, [18] On me she shed some trifling favours too. Sure Granville's luck exceeds all other men's Led through a sad variety of tens;[19] The rest have sometimes eights and nines, but he Is always followed by 'the jolly three;'[20] But the great Skew some guardian sylph protects, His judgment governs, and his hand directs When to refrain, when boldly to put in And catch with happy nine the wayward pin. [21]

The next morning Luttrell came down with, a whole paper full ofepigrams (I had been winning at macao, and had turned up fivenines in my deal):--

 Why should we wonder if in Greville's verses Each thought so brilliant and each line so terse is? For surely he in poetry must shine Who is, we know, so favoured by the nine. [22]

 _THE JOLLY TENS. _

 Quoth Greville, 'The commandments are divine; But as they're ten, I lay them on the shelf: O could they change their number and be nine, I'd keep them all, and keep them to myself!'

Thus we trifled life away. 

 [15] A clock tower. [16] Lady Granville. [17] E. Montagu. [18] We gave him this nickname. [19] Tens, ruinous at macao. [20] Tens. [21] The middle pin, a large gain. [22] _Nines_ are the grand desiderata at macao. 

 1819. 

[Page Head: LADY JERSEY. ]

January 17th, 1819 {p. 012}

I went to Burleigh on the 23rd of December; there was no onethere but Irby. The house disappointed me very much, but it is avery fine showplace. I went away on the 27th to Middleton; therewere the Culling Smiths, Worcesters, Sir James Mackintosh, Ossulstons, Nugent, &c. ; it was very agreeable, and the houseextremely comfortable. Lady Jersey[23] is an extraordinary woman, and has many good qualities; surrounded as she is by flatterersand admirers, she is neither proud nor conceited. She is full ofvivacity, spirit, and good nature, but the wide range of hersympathies and affections proves that she has more generalbenevolence than particular sensibility in her character. Sheperforms all the ordinary duties of life with great correctness, because her heart is naturally good; and she is, perhaps, fromher temperament exposed to fewer temptations than the generalityof her sex. She is deficient in passion and in softness (whichconstitute the greatest charm in women), so that she excites moreof admiration than of interest; in conversation she is lively andpleasant, without being very remarkable, for she has neither wit, nor imagination, nor humour; her understanding is active ratherthan strong, and her judgment is too often warped by prejudice tobe sound. She has a retentive memory and a restless mind, together with a sort of intellectual arrangement, with which sheappears rather to have been gifted by nature than to have derivedit from the cultivation of her reasoning faculties. 

 [23] [Sarah Sophia, eldest daughter of John, tenth Earl of Westmoreland, and heiress of Robert Child, Esq. , of Osterley Park, her maternal grandfather. ]

I went from Middleton to Oatlands. The Duke was not there. We hadthe Smiths, Worcesters, Alvanley, Stanhope, Rogers, Luttrell, George Dawson, Lord Lauderdale, &c. Lord Erskine was ill, andLord Lauderdale was taking care of him. The house was veryuncomfortable, and the room I was in small, noisy, and inconvenient. 

I came to London on Friday last. Parliament having met on theThursday, it is very full, and is filling more and more everyday. The Opposition expect to divide 180 on the Bank question;they talk of re-establishing the dinners which they used to havein Fox's time. 

Rogers is in a nervous state about his poem, and trembles at thereviewers. [24]

 [24] [Rogers' poem entitled 'Human Life' was on the eve of publication. The reviewers treated it more tenderly than it deserved, as appears below. ]

January 28th, 1819 {p. 013}

I went to Gorhambury on the 24th to shoot. The Duke of York wasthere. We should have had a brilliant _chasse_, but it rained. Wewent out at three and killed 105 pheasants. 

There has been some skirmishing in the House of Commons, particularly the night before last, on Dr. Halloran's petition, when the Opposition (Bennet _duce_) got completely beaten. Manyof the new members have spoken, but Mr. Lawson, a _soi-disant_wit, and Sir R. Wilson have failed lamentably. It is odd enoughthat Wilson made a reply to an attack which Cobbett had insertedin one of his papers upon him. Cobbett said that he would make asilly speech in Parliament and destroy himself, and it is justwhat he did. The Opposition were very angry with Sir J. Coffin, who, with the candour of a novice, had made himself informed ofthe facts of the petition, and finding they were against hisfriends, said so in the House. 

Arbuthnot told me some particulars about Tierney. He began bybeing a friend of Mr. Pitt, and in one of his speeches on theSouthwark or Colchester election he praised him in opposition toMr. Fox. This latter never liked him, and the Regent assuredArbuthnot he had letters of Tierney in his possession thankinghim for having endeavoured to remove Mr. Fox's antipathy to him. When Addington came in, Pitt advised him to get Tierney, asnobody would be so useful to him. He did accordingly, and soTierney became a member of the Administration. [25] When Pitt cameagain into office a negotiation was opened with him through themedium of Charles Long. He was offered the Chief Secretaryship inIreland, which he wished to have, but he made it a condition thathe should not be in Parliament. To this Mr. Pitt would not agree, as he said that he must commit himself with them entirely or notjoin them at all; he refused, not choosing to commit himself, andthe negotiations broke off. 

 [25] [Right Hon. George Tierney, Treasurer of the Navy and P. C. In 1803. President of the Board of Control in October, 1806, Member of the Mint in 1827. ]

January 31st, 1819 {p. 014}

I dined with Lady Bathurst yesterday. We talked of theapproaching contests in Parliament, and she said that she feltmore apprehensive now than ever she had done for the safety ofthe Government, that it was impossible for Ministers to stay inif they were defeated, as they had occasionally been in the lastParliament, and that if they were defeated she should attributeit all to Vansittart, who is a millstone about their necks. Iasked why they did not get rid of him, and she said that it wasfrom good-nature; they had scruples about telling him he wasinefficient and must resign. She said that Canning's conduct hadbeen so good towards them, they were very anxious to put him insome more considerable office. 

[Page Head: PRINCESS LIEVEN. ]

February 3rd, 1819 {p. 015}

I went with Bouverie to Newmarket on Monday to look at thehorses. On Wednesday I came to town and went on to Oatlands. Madame de Lieven was there. This woman is excessively clever, andwhen she chooses brilliantly agreeable. She is beyond all peoplefastidious. She is equally conscious of her own superiority andthe inferiority of other people, and the contempt she has for theunderstandings of the generality of her acquaintance has made herindifferent to please and incapable of taking any delight ingeneral society. Her manners are very dignified and graceful, andshe is extremely accomplished. She sometimes endeavours to assumepopular and gracious manners, but she does this languidly andawkwardly, because it is done with an effort. She carries _ennui_to such a pitch that even in the society of her most intimatefriends she frequently owns that she is bored to death. Shewrites memoirs, or rather a journal, of all that falls under herobservation. She is so clever, has so much imagination andpenetration, that they must be very entertaining. She writes aswell as talks with extraordinary ease and gracefulness, and bothher letters and her conversation are full of point; yet she isnot liked, and has made hardly any friends. Her manners arestately and reserved, and so little _bonhomie_ penetrates throughher dignity that few feel sufficiently attracted to induce themto try and thaw the ice in which she always seems bound. [26]

 [26] [A very imperfect character of Princess Lieven, with whom Mr. Greville was at this time but slightly acquainted. But in after years he became one of her most intimate and confidential friends, and she frequently reappears in the course of these memoirs. ]

February 5th, 1819 {p. 016}

I have finished Madame de Staël's 'Considérations sur laRévolution Française. ' It is the best of her works, extremelyeloquent, containing the soundest political opinions conveyed ina bold and eloquent style. It is perhaps too philosophicaland not sufficiently relieved by anecdotes and historicalillustrations. Her defence of her father is written with muchenthusiasm and great plausibility, but the judgment of the worldconcerning Necker is formed, and it is too late to alter it. Theeffect of her eloquence is rather weakened by the recollection ofher conduct to him, for she lived with him as little as possible, because she could not bear the _ennui_ of Coppet. [27]

 [27] [In the latter years of Madame de Staël's life Coppet became one of the most brilliant social resorts in Europe, for she attracted there the Schlegels, B. Constant, Bonstetten, Sismondi, Byron, and a host of other celebrities. Towards her father Madame de Staël expressed the most passionate regard. ]

February 9th, 1819 {p. 016}

The Opposition are in a state of the highest exultation onaccount of the division in the House of Commons last night onBrougham's being added to the Bank Committee. The numbers were173 to 135. They triumph particularly in this strong minoritybecause the attack upon Brougham in the 'Quarterly Review' wasdeemed so successful by the Ministerial party that they thoughthe would not be able to lift up his head again. The review isextremely well done, as all allow. It is supposed to be writtenby Dr. Ireland [it was by Dr. Monk[28]], and that Canningsupplied the jokes, but Arbuthnot assured me he had no hand init. 

 [28] [Dr. Monk, not Dr. Ireland, was the author of the article. Monk became Bishop of Gloucester in 1830. This passage relates to the celebrated article on the Report of Mr. Brougham's Committee on the Education of the People which appeared in the 'Quarterly Review' of December 1818. The article was a violent one, but it is amusing to see the effects attributed to it at the time. Some controversy has since taken place as to the share Canning had in it. I have myself seen the letters from Gifford (editor of the 'Review') to Dr. Monk, in which he speaks of the additions which have been made to the article; and there is the strongest internal evidence that these _purpurei panni_ were added by Canning. The subject is discussed in the 'Edinburgh Review' for July 1858. ]

February 10th, 1819 {p. 016}

Wilberforce made a speech last night which reminded one of thebetter days of the House of Commons. He presented a petition fromthe Quakers against the Criminal Code, and introduced acompliment to Romilly. Castlereagh was in a minority in theCommittee concerning the equerries of the Windsor establishment;he wished to keep two more than Tierney proposed; the latter hadeight to six in the Committee. [29]

 [29] [In consequence of the death of Queen Charlotte in the preceding month of November, the Government visited the Windsor establishment. The Duke of York was appointed _custos personae_ of the King, and received in that capacity £10, 000 a year, which had previously been allowed to the Queen. A debate took place on this subject on the 25th of February, which is referred to by Mr. Greville under that date. ]

February 14th, 1819 {p. 017}

George Lamb has been proposed in opposition to Hobhouse. [30] Thelatter drew this opposition upon himself by his speech, and stillmore by the reports of his Committee, in which they abused theWhigs in unmeasured terms. Lambton went to Hobhouse and asked himif he would disavow the abuse of Lord Grey, which his Committeehad inserted in the document they printed; he refused, on whichthe opposition was determined upon and begun. McDonald proposedLamb, but they would not hear him; Evans seconded him. G. Jonesmade a very good speech in proposing Cartwright. Burdett andKinnaird both spoke with moderation in proposing Hobhouse. It isgenerally supposed that Lamb will win. 

 [30] [The death of Sir Samuel Romilly in November 1818 caused a vacancy in the representation of Westminster, and another election took place upon the meeting of Parliament. The numbers were: Hon. George Lamb, 4, 465; John Cam Hobhouse, 3, 861; Major Cartwright, 38. ]

Rogers' poem is disliked; the cry is all against it; some of thelines are pretty, but it is not perspicuous enough, and isdeficient in novelty and force. 

[Page Head: WESTMINSTER ELECTION. ]

February 18th, 1819 {p. 017}

Yesterday Lamb was only seven behind Hobhouse on the poll;everybody thinks he is sure to win, even if Burdett should comeforward with money. The day before there was great uproar andmuch abuse on the hustings. Burdett made a shameful speech fullof blasphemy and Jacobinism, but he seems to have lost hispopularity in a great measure even with the blackguards ofWestminster. Hobhouse yesterday was long and dull; he did notspeak like a clever man, and if the people would have heard Lamb, and he has any dexterity in reply, he must have crushed him--itwas so answerable a speech. 

I went to the Berrys[31] in the evening, where the blues and thewits were assembled; as Sidney Smith said, 'the conversationraged, ' but there was nothing remarkably entertaining. 

 [31] [Miss Berry's well-known _salon_, No. 8 Curzon Street, which was for more than a half a century the resort of the best company in London. ]

[Page Head: PARTY SPIRIT. ]

February 25th, 1819 {p. 018}

The debate on the £10, 000 to the Duke of York on Monday producedfour very good speeches--Peel and the Solicitor-General on onepart, and Tierney and Scarlett[32] on the other. This latterspoke for the first time, and in reply to the two former. TheOpposition came to Brookes' full of admiration of his speech, which is said to be the best _first speech_ that ever was made inthe House of Commons. I, who hear all parties and care for none, have been amused with the different accounts of the debate; oneman says Peel's speech was the best of the night and the finestthat has been made in the House for a length of time; anotherprefers the Solicitor-General's; then on the other side it issaid that Tierney was excellent, Mr. Scarlett beyond all praise. The friends of Government allow great merit to the two latterspeakers, but declare that Peel was unanswerable, besides havingbeen beautifully eloquent, and that Scarlett's speech was afallacy from beginning to end. Again I am told Peel was not good;his was a speech for effect, evidently prepared, showy, but notargumentative; Scarlett triumphantly refuted all his reasoning. Thus it is that a fair judgment is never formed upon anyquestion; the spirit of party influences every man's opinions. Itis not extraordinary that each individual of a party connected bygeneral similarity of opinion should adhere to the great body, even in cases where he may not happen to agree with them, andexcellent reasons may be adduced for his sacrificing his own viewfor the great object of unanimity; but it is very improbable thaton a particular question, unconnected with any general system, where arguments are adduced from opposite sides, and submitted tothe enlightened judgment of an assembly, the same arguments whichare looked upon as satisfactory and unanswerable by one set ofmen should be deemed without exception utterly fallacious byanother. If any proof were requisite of the mighty influence ofparty spirit, it would be found in a still stronger light in theState trials in the House of Lords. I have in my mind the trialof Lord Melville; when each Peer had to deliver his judicialopinion upon the evidence adduced in a matter so solemn, and inthe discharge of a duty so sacred, it might be imagined that allparty feelings would be laid aside, and that a mature judgmentand an enlightened conscience would alone have regulated theconduct of every individual. Yet either by an extraordinaryaccident or by the influence of party spirit we beheld all thePeers on the Ministerial side of the House declaring LordMelville innocent, and all those of the Opposition pronouncinghim guilty. 

 [32] [Sir James Scarlett, afterwards Lord Abinger and Lord Chief Baron. It is remarkable that his first speech in the House of Commons was delivered on the Whig side of the House. He afterwards became a decided Tory. ]

March 5th, 1819 {p. 019}

George Lamb was to have been chaired on the day he was elected, but the mob was outrageous and would not suffer it. They brokeinto his committee room, and he and McDonald were forced to creepout of a two pair of stairs window into the churchyard. Hispartisans, who assembled on horseback, were attacked and pelted, and forced to retreat after receiving many hard knocks. In theevening the mob paraded the town, and broke the windows of LordCastlereagh's and Lord Sefton's houses. 

The other night Sir James Mackintosh[33] made a splendid speechon the Criminal Laws; it was temperate and eloquent, and exciteduniversal admiration. The Ministerial party spoke as highly of itas the Opposition themselves. Last night Canning moved the thanksto Lord Hastings, and they say it was the finest speech he evermade, in the best taste, the clearest narrative, and the mostbeautiful language. 

 [33] [Sir James Mackintosh's motion for the appointment of a Committee on Capital Punishments was carried against the Government on the 2nd of March by 148 to 128. ]

June 12th, 1819 {p. 020}

I have been at Oatlands for the Ascot party. On the course I didnothing. Ever since the Derby ill fortune has pursued me, and Icannot win anywhere. Play is a detestable occupation; it absorbsall our thoughts and renders us unfit for everything else inlife. It is hurtful to the mind and destroys the better feelings;it incapacitates us for study and application of every sort; itmakes us thoughtful and nervous; and our cheerfulness dependsupon the uncertain event of our nightly occupation. How anyonecan play who is not in want of money I cannot comprehend; surelyhis mind must be strangely framed who requires the stimulus ofgambling to heighten his pleasures. Some indeed may have becomeattached to gaming from habit, and may not wish to throw off thehabit from the difficulty of finding fresh employment for themind at an advanced period of life. Some may be unfitted bynature or taste for society, and for such gaming may have apowerful attraction. The mind is excited; at the gaming-table allmen are equal; no superiority of birth, accomplishments, orability avail here; great noblemen, merchants, orators, jockies, statesmen, and idlers are thrown together in levelling confusion;the only pre-eminence is that of success, the only superioritythat of temper. But why does a man play who is blessed withfortune, endowed with understanding, and adorned with accomplishmentswhich might ensure his success in any pursuit which taste orfancy might incite him to follow? It is contrary to reason, butwe see such instances every day. The passion of play is notartificial; it must have existed in certain minds from thebeginning; at least some must have been so constituted that theyyield at once to the attraction, and enter with avidity into apursuit in which other men can never take the least interest. 

June 14th, 1819 {p. 020}

The other night in the House of Commons on the Foreign EnlistmentBill Sir James Mackintosh made a brilliant speech; all partiesagree in commending it. Canning answered him, but not successfully. The Duke of Wellington told me on Friday that there was a gooddebate in the House of Lords the night before on the Catholicquestion, but he thought his side had the worst of it; heacknowledged that Lord Grey's speech had done much to shake hisopinion, and that he had not conceived that his propositionswould have been framed in so unobjectionable a manner. [34]

 [34] [On the 10th of June Earl Grey submitted to the House of Lords a Bill to relieve Roman Catholics from taking the declaratory oaths against Transubstantiation and the Invocation of Saints. On this occasion, for the first time, Lord Grenville supported the Catholic claims. But the Bill was thrown out by 141 to 92. ]

[Page Head: PERSIAN AMBASSADOR AND THE REGENT. ]

June 25th, 1819 {p. 021}

The Persian Ambassador has had a quarrel with the Court. Hewanted to have precedence over all other Ambassadors, and becausethis was not allowed he was affronted and would not go to Court. This mark of disrespect was resented, and it was signified to himthat his presence would be dispensed with at Carlton House, andthat the Ministers could no longer receive him at their houses. On Sunday last the Regent went to Lady Salisbury's, where he metthe Persian, who, finding he had given offence, had made a sortof apology, and said that illness had prevented him from going toCourt. The Regent came up to him and said, 'Well, my good friend, how are you? I hope you are better?' He said, 'Oh, sir, I am verywell, but I am very sorry I offended your Royal Highness by notgoing to Court. Now, sir, my Sovereign he tell me to go first, and your Congress, about which I know nothing, say I must golast; now this very bad for me (pointing to his head) when I goback to Persia. ' The Regent said, 'Well, my good friend, nevermind it now; it does not signify. ' He answered, 'Oh yes, sir; butyour Royal Highness still angry with me, and you have not askedme to your party to-morrow night. ' The Regent laughed and said, 'I was only going to have a few children to dance, but if youlike to come I shall be very happy to see you. ' Accordingly hewent to Carlton House, and they are very good friends again. 

August 11th, 1819 {p. 021}

The Vice-Chancellor was going to Italy, but his journey isstopped, as he says, because the Prince Regent has desired him tostay in England in consequence of the approaching return of thePrincess of Wales. 

August 30th, 1819 {p. 022}

I am just returned from Oatlands; we had an immense party, themost numerous ever known there. The Duchess wished it to havebeen prolonged, but there were no funds. The distress they are inis inconceivable. When the Duchess came down there was no waterin the house. She asked the reason, and was informed that thewater came by pipes from St. George's Hill, which were stopped upwith sand; and as the workmen were never paid, they would notclear them out. She ordered the pipes to be cleared and the billsbrought to her, which was done. On Thursday there was a greatdistress, as the steward had no money to pay the tradespeople, and the Duke was prevailed on with great difficulty to produce asmall sum for the purpose. The house is nearly in ruins. 

December 24th, 1819 {p. 022}

The Duke of Kent gave the name of Alexandrina to his daughter[35]in compliment to the Emperor of Russia. She was to have had thename of Georgiana, but the Duke insisted upon Alexandrina beingher first name. The Regent sent for Lieven and made him a greatmany compliments (_en le persiflant_) on the Emperor's beinggodfather, but informed him that the name of Georgiana could besecond to no other in this country, and therefore she could notbear it at all. 

 [35] [The Princess, afterwards Queen, Victoria, born 24th of May, 1819. ]

The frost is intense. The town is empty. I returned from Wherstedlast Wednesday se'nnight, and went to Oatlands on Thursday; therewas nearly the same party. Prince Leopold came and dined there onSaturday. He is very dull and heavy in his manner, and seemsovercome with the weight of his dignity. This Prince will notsucceed here; everybody is civil to him from the interest heexcited at the time of the Princess's death--an interest whichhas not yet subsided. There seems to be no harm in him, buteverybody contrasts his manners with those of the Duke of York, and the comparison is not to his advantage. The Duchess likes thesociety of men of wit and letters; more, I think, from thevariety of having them around her than from any pleasure shetakes in their conversation. Lord Alvanley is the man in whom shetakes the greatest delight. 

 1820. 

London, January 20th, 1820 {p. 023}

I went last Sunday se'nnight to Woburn. The Duke of York, Duke ofWellington, Lievens, Jerseys, Worcesters, Tavistocks, Mr. Russell, Lady Sandwich, Alvanley, C. Smith, Huntleys, FrederickPonsonby, Lauderdale, and others were there. The house, place, establishment, and manner of living are magnificent. The _chasse_was brilliant; in five days we killed 835 pheasants, 645 hares, 59 rabbits, 10 partridges, and 5 woodcocks. The Duchess was verycivil and the party very gay. I won at whist, and liked it verymuch. 

January 22nd, 1820 {p. 023}

Just before the advance of the allied army on Paris a council ofwar was held, when it was unanimously resolved to retreat. TheEmperor of Russia entered the room, and said he had reasons foradvancing, and ordered the advance; the generals remonstrated, but the Emperor was determined. Woronzoff told Sydenham that thatday a courier arrived at his outposts with a letter for theEmperor in the handwriting of Talleyrand. This was told me byFrederick Ponsonby. 

[Page Head: ILLNESS OF GEORGE IV. ]

February 4th, 1820 {p. 023}

I returned to Woburn on Sunday. We shot the whole week and killedan immense quantity of game; the last two days we killed 245 and296 pheasants, 822 and 431 head. On Sunday last arrived the newsof the King's death. [36] The new King has been desperately ill. He had a bad cold at Brighton, for which he lost eighty ounces ofblood; yet he afterwards had a severe oppression, amountingalmost to suffocation, on his chest. Halford was gone to Windsor, and left orders with Knighton not to bleed him again till hisreturn. Knighton was afraid to bleed him. Bloomfield sent forTierney, [37] who took upon himself to take fifty ounces from him. This gave him relief; he continued, however, dangerously ill, andon Wednesday he lost twenty ounces more. Yesterday afternoon hewas materially better for the first time. Tierney certainly savedhis life, for he must have died if he had not been blooded. Brougham sent a courier to the Queen immediately after the lateKing's death, and gave notice at Carlton House that he hadapplied for a passport for a courier to her Majesty the Queen. 

 [36] [King George III. Died on the 20th of January, 1820. ]

 [37] [Sir Matthew Tierney, one of His Majesty's physicians. ]

The King has given to Lady Bloomfield the Rangership of HamptonCourt Park. He wished to give it to both of them with thesurvivorship, but Lord Liverpool submitted to him that theHouse of Commons had pronounced so strongly their dislike toreversionary grants that it would be unadvisable, and it wasaccordingly given to Lady B. Only. 

February 14th, 1820 {p. 024}

The Cabinet sat till past two o'clock this morning. The Kingrefused several times to order the Queen to be prayed for in thealteration which was made in the Liturgy. The Ministers wishedhim to suffer it to be done, but he peremptorily refused, andsaid nothing should induce him to consent, whoever might ask him. Lord Harrowby told me this last night. 

[Page Head: NAPOLEON IN THE HUNDRED DAYS. ]

I think Fleury's book[38] almost the most interesting memoir Iever read; it is excessively well written, and his partiality toBonaparte has not blinded him to the errors he committed. Thisbook was wanted to bring under the same view the immediate causesof his return to France and the situation in which he foundhimself when seated on the throne. This was essentially differentfrom that in which he had been before his abdication; so much sothat I do not believe, if he had concluded a peace with theAllies, he could have remained upon the throne. Not only hiscivil power was reduced within very narrow limits, but hismilitary authority was no longer the same; men seemed to havelost that reverential submissiveness which caused all his ordersto be so blindly and implicitly obeyed. During the height of hispower none of his generals would have dared to neglect or opposehis orders as Ney did at the battles of the 16th of June. It isimpossible now to determine what might have been the politicalresult in France of the success of Bonaparte's arms had he gainedthe battle of Waterloo. He would probably have made peace withthe Allies. Had he returned to Paris triumphant, he might havedissolved the Chambers and re-established the old ImperialGovernment. In such a measure he must have depended upon his armyfor success. But a spirit of liberty had sprung up in Franceduring his absence, which seemed to be the more vigorous fromhaving been so long repressed. The nation, and even the army, appear to have imbibed the principles of freedom; and if uponthis occasion Bonaparte was placed on the throne by the force ofopinion, he could not have restored the ancient despotism withoutexciting universal dissatisfaction. Men seem formerly to havebeen awed by a conviction of his infallibility, and did notsuffer themselves to reason upon the principles of action of aman who dazzled their imaginations by the magnificence of hisexploits and the grandeur of his system. 

 [38] [M. Fleury de Chabaulon was a young _auditeur_ at the Conseil d'État who had joined Napoleon at Elba, and afterwards returned with him to France, when he was attached to the Imperial Cabinet during the Hundred Days. His memoir of that period is here referred to. ]

February 20th, 1820 {p. 025}

The Ministers had resigned last week because the King would nothear reason on the subject of the Princess. It is said that hetreated Lord Liverpool very coarsely, and ordered him out of theroom. The King, they say, asked him 'if he knew to whom he wasspeaking. ' He replied, 'Sir, I know that I am speaking to mySovereign, and I believe I am addressing him as it becomes aloyal subject to do. ' To the Chancellor he said, 'My Lord, I knowyour conscience always interferes except where your interest isconcerned. ' The King afterwards sent for Lord Liverpool, whorefused at first to go; but afterwards, on the message beingreiterated, he went, and the King said, 'We have both been toohasty. ' This is probably all false, but it is very true that theyoffered to resign. 

[Page Head: THE CATO STREET CONSPIRACY. ]

February 24th, 1820 {p. 026}

The plot[39] which has been detected had for its object thedestruction of the Cabinet Ministers, and the chief actor in theconspiracy was Arthur Thistlewood. I was at Lady Harrowby's lastnight, and about half-past one o'clock Lord Harrowby came in andtold us the following particulars:--A plot has been in agitationfor some time past, of the existence of which, the names andnumbers of the men concerned, and of all particulars concerningtheir plans, Government has been perfectly well informed. Theconspirators had intended to execute their design about lastChristmas at a Cabinet dinner at Lord Westmoreland's, but forsome reason they were unable to do so and deferred it. At lengthGovernment received information that they were to assemble to thenumber of from twenty to thirty at a house in Cato Street, Edgware Road, and that they had resolved to execute their purposelast night, when the Cabinet would be at dinner at LordHarrowby's. Dinner was ordered as usual. Men had been observedwatching the house, both in front and rear, during the wholeafternoon. It was believed that nine o'clock was the hour fixedupon for the assault to be made. The Ministers who were expectedat dinner remained at Fife House, and at eight o'clock Mr. Birniewith twelve constables was despatched to Cato Street to apprehendthe conspirators. Thirty-five foot guards were ordered to supportthe police force. The constables arrived upon the spot a fewmoments before the soldiers, and suspecting that the conspiratorshad received intimation of the discovery of their plot, and werein consequence preparing to escape, they did not wait for thesoldiers, but went immediately to the house. A man armed with amusket was standing sentry, whom they secured. They then ascendeda narrow staircase which led to the room in which the gang wereassembled, and burst the door open. The first man who entered wasshot in the head, but was only wounded; he who followed wasstabbed by Thistlewood and killed. The conspirators then withtheir swords put out the lights and attempted to escape. By thistime the soldiers had arrived. Nine men were taken prisoners;Thistlewood and the rest escaped. 

 [39] [The Cato Street Conspiracy. ]

March 1st, 1820 {p. 027}

Thistlewood was taken the morning after the affair in CatoStreet. It was the intention of these men to have fired a rocketfrom Lord Harrowby's house as soon as they had completed theirwork of destruction; this was to have been the signal for therising of their friends. An oil shop was to have been set on fireto increase the confusion and collect a mob; then the Bank was tohave been attacked and the gates of Newgate thrown open. Theheads of the Ministers were to have been cut off and put in asack which was prepared for that purpose. These are greatprojects, but it does not appear they were ever in forcesufficient to put them in execution, and the mob (even if the mobhad espoused their cause, which seems doubtful), though verydangerous in creating confusion and making havoc, are quiteinefficient for a regular operation. 

June 4th, 1820 {p. 027}

I went to Oatlands on Tuesday. The Duchess continues very ill;she is not expected to recover. The King was at Ascot every day;he generally rode on the course, and the ladies came incarriages. One day they all rode. He was always cheered by themob as he went away. One day only a man in the crowd called out, 'Where's the Queen?' The Duke of Dorset was at the Cottage, andsays it was exceedingly agreeable. They kept very early hours. The King always breakfasted with them, and Lady Conyngham lookedremarkably well in the morning, her complexion being so fine. OnFriday she said she was bored with the races and should not go;he accordingly would not go either, and sent word to say heshould not be there. They stay there till to-morrow. In themeantime the Queen is coming to England, and Brougham is gone tomeet her. Nobody knows what advice he intends to give her, buteverybody believes that it is his intention she should come. Itwas supposed that Lady Conyngham's family (her son and brother)had set their faces against her connection with the King; butLord Mount Charles was at the Cottage, and Denison was at thelevee and very well received. 

[Page Head: THE QUEEN'S RETURN. ]

June 7th, 1820 {p. 028}

The Queen arrived in London yesterday at seven o'clock. I rode asfar as Greenwich to meet her. The road was thronged with animmense multitude the whole way from Westminster Bridge toGreenwich. Carriages, carts, and horsemen followed, preceded, andsurrounded her coach the whole way. She was everywhere receivedwith the greatest enthusiasm. Women waved pocket handkerchiefs, and men shouted wherever she passed. She travelled in an openlandau, Alderman Wood sitting by her side and Lady Ann Hamiltonand another woman opposite. Everybody was disgusted at thevulgarity of Wood in sitting in the place of honour, while theDuke of Hamilton's sister was sitting backwards in the carriage. The Queen looked exactly as she did before she left England, andseemed neither dispirited nor dismayed. As she passed by White'sshe bowed and smiled to the men who were in the window. The crowdwas not great in the streets through which she passed. Probablypeople had ceased to expect her, as it was so much later than thehour designated for her arrival. It is impossible to conceive thesensation created by this event. Nobody either blames or approvesof her sudden return, but all ask, 'What will be done next? Howis it to end?' In the House of Commons there was little said; butthe few words which fell from Creevy, Bennett, or Denman seem tothreaten most stormy debates whenever the subject is discussed. The King in the meantime is in excellent spirits, and theMinisters affect the greatest unconcern and talk of the time itwill take to pass the Bills to 'settle her business. ' 'Herbusiness, ' as they call it, will in all probability raise such atempest as they will find it beyond their powers to appease; andfor all his Majesty's unconcern the day of her arrival in Englandmay be such an anniversary to him as he will have no cause tocelebrate with much rejoicing. [40]

 [40] [On the day that the Queen landed at Dover a royal message was sent down to Parliament, by which the King commended to the Lords an enquiry into the conduct of the Queen. In the House of Commons there was some vehement speaking; and on the following day, before Lord Castlereagh moved the address in answer to the message, Mr. Brougham read to the House a message from the Queen, declaring that her return to England was occasioned by the necessity her enemies had laid upon her of defending her character. ]

June 9th, 1820 {p. 029}

Brougham's speech on Wednesday is said by his friends to havebeen one of the best that was ever made, and I think all agreethat it was good and effective. The House of Commons is evidentlyanxious to get rid of the question if possible, for the momentWilberforce expressed a wish to adjourn the county members roseone after another and so strongly concurred in that wish thatCastlereagh was obliged to consent. The mob have been breakingwindows in all parts of the town and pelting those who would nottake off their hats as they passed Wood's door. Last night LordExmouth's house was assaulted and his windows broken, when herushed out armed with sword and pistol and drove away the mob. Frederick Ponsonby saw him. Great sums of money have been won andlost on the Queen's return, for there was much betting at theclubs. The alderman showed a specimen of his taste as he cameinto London; when the Queen's coach passed Carlton House he stoodup and gave three cheers. 

It is odd enough Lady Hertford's windows have been broken topieces and the frames driven in, while no assault has been madeon Lady Conyngham's. Somebody asked Lady Hertford 'if she hadbeen aware of the King's admiration for Lady Conyngham, ' and'whether he had ever talked to her about Lady C. ' She repliedthat 'intimately as she had known the King, and openly as he hadalways talked to her upon every subject, he had never ventured tospeak to her upon that of his mistresses. '

June 16th, 1820 {p. 029}

The speech which Canning made on the occasion of the King'smessage has been violently attacked by all parties, and is saidto have given as great dissatisfaction to the Queen as to theKing. It is not easy to discover what the Queen could haveobjected to in the speech, for it was highly favourable andflattering to her. It was generally supposed last Sunday that hewould resign in the course of the week, and bets were laid thathe would not be in office next Sunday. On Wednesday he had anaudience of the King at the levee, which lasted fifty-two minutesby Yarmouth's watch; nobody knows what passed between them. LordFitzwilliam and Lord Sefton have refused to act as negotiatorsfor the Queen. 

There was some indiscipline manifested in a battalion of the 3rdGuards the day before yesterday; they were dissatisfied at theseverity of their duty and at some allowances that had been takenfrom them, and on coming off guard they refused to give up theirball cartridges. They were ordered off to Plymouth, and marchedat four yesterday morning. Many people went from the ball atDevonshire House to see them march away. Plymouth was afterwardschanged for Portsmouth in consequence of their good behaviour onthe route. Worcester[41] met many of them drunk at Brentford, crying out, 'God save Queen Caroline!' There was some disturbancelast night in consequence of the mob assembling round the King'smews, where the rest of the battalion that had marched toPortsmouth still remained. 

 [41] [The Marquis of Worcester, afterwards seventh Duke of Beaufort]

[Page Head: SECRET COMMITTEE ON THE QUEEN. ]

June 23rd, 1820 {p. 030}

I never remember to have seen the public curiosity so excited ason Wilberforce's motion last night. [42] Nearly 520 members votedin the House, and some went away; as many people as could gainadmission attended to hear the debate. The speaking on theOpposition side was excellent, but as everybody differs inopinion with regard to the comparative merit of the speakers, itis impossible for one who was not present to form a correctjudgment on the subject. The best speeches were Brougham's, Denman's, Burdett's, and Canning's. Denman's speech was admirableand, all agree, most judicious and effective for his client. Burdett's was extremely clever, particularly the first part ofit. In the meantime it is doubtful whether anything is gained bythe resolution carried last night. Public opinion seems veryequally divided as to the probability of the Queen agreeing tothe expressed or implied wish of the House of Commons, and evenif she refuses to consent to the omission of her name in theLiturgy it seems doubtful whether the green bag will ever beopened, so strong is the repugnance of the House of Commons toenter upon such an investigation. It is this feeling in the Housewhich emboldens the Queen to hold out with the firmness andconstancy she has hitherto displayed. The House of Lords cuts amost ridiculous figure, having precipitately agreed to go intothe Committee. They have since been obliged to put off theinvestigation by repeated adjournments, in order to see whatsteps the House of Commons will take. Lord Grey made an indignantspeech, last night on this very subject; they say Lord Liverpoolspoke remarkably well in reply. 

 [42] [Mr. Wilberforce moved an address to the Queen to stop the investigation, by entreating her Majesty, under the assurance of the protection of her honour by the Commons, to yield the point of the insertion of her name in the Liturgy. This proposal the Queen courteously declined. ]

June 25th, 1820 {p. 031}

The Queen's refusal to comply with the desire of the House ofCommons keeps conjecture afloat and divides opinions as to theopening of the bag. The Opposition call her answer a very goodone; those of the other party I have seen think it too long, andnot neatly and clearly worded. Brougham declined advising her asto her answer; he told her she must be guided by her ownfeelings, and was herself the only person capable of judging whatshe had best do. The discussion of the Queen's business is nowbecome an intolerable nuisance in society; no other subject isever talked of. It is an incessant matter of argument and disputewhat will be done and what ought to be done. All people expressthemselves tired of the subject, yet none talk or think of anyother. It is a great evil when a single subject of interest takespossession of society; conversation, loses all its lightness andvariety, and every drawing-room is converted into an arena ofpolitical disputation. People even go to talk about it from habitlong after the interest it excited has ceased. 

June 27th, 1820 {p. 031}

The mob was very abusive to the member who carried up theresolution to the Queen, and called Wilberforce 'Dr. Cantwell. 'The Queen demanded to be heard by counsel at the bar of the Houseof Lords. Contrary to order and contrary to expectation, thecounsel were admitted, when Brougham made a very powerful speech. Denman began exceedingly well; Lord Holland said his first threeor four sentences were the best thing he ever heard; _si sicomnia_, he would have made the finest speech possible; but on thewhole he was inferior to Brougham. If the House had refused tohear her counsel, it is said that she would have gone down to-dayto the House of Lords and have demanded to be heard in person. Asusual Brougham's speech is said by many of his politicaladversaries to have been weak in argument. Many, however, do himthe justice to acknowledge that it was a very powerful appeal forhis client. 

June 28th, 1820 {p. 032}

The debate last night in the House of Lords was excellent. LordGrey made a powerful speech, very much against the Queen, aspeech for office. The manager announced at Drury Lane that theQueen would go to the play to-night. Brougham knew nothing ofthis; she never told him. Mrs. Brougham told me so last night, and that he was quite worn out with the business. [43]

 [43] [The report of the Secret Committee of the Lords was made on the 4th of July. It declared that the evidence against the Queen was such as to demand a solemn enquiry. The trial, or rather investigation, began on the 17th of August. The defence was opened on the 3rd of October, and the Bill was abandoned on the 6th of November. ]

July 6th, 1820 {p. 032}

Since the report of the Secret Committee public opinion isentirely changed as to the result of the proceedings against theQueen. Everybody thinks the charges will be proved and that theKing will be divorced. It is impossible to discover what effectthe report may have in the country; it is certain hitherto thatall ranks of men have been decidedly favourable to the Queen, anddisbelieve the charges against her. The military in London haveshown alarming symptoms of dissatisfaction, so much so that itseems doubtful how far the Guards can be counted upon in case ofany disturbance arising out of this subject. Luttrell says that'the extinguisher is taking fire. '

[Page Head: THE QUEEN'S TRIAL]

July 8th, 1820 {p. 033}

I was in the House of Lords the night before last to hearBrougham and Denman speak at the bar. Brougham's speech wasuncommonly clever, very insolent, and parts of it very eloquent. A very amusing episode was furnished by the Bishop of Exeter, whomoved that the counsel should withdraw, and then asked the Housewhether they were not out of order. Lord Holland cut him up inthe most beautiful style, and excited universal laughter. Nobodycame to the assistance of the Bishop, and the counsel were calledin again and resumed. Brougham's speech is reported in the'Morning Chronicle' of yesterday word for word. 

July 14th, 1820 {p. 033}

I have been at Newmarket, where I had the first fortunate turnthis year. The conversation about the Queen begins to subside;everybody seems to agree that it is a great injustice not toallow her lists of the witnesses; the excuse that it is not usualis bad, for the proceedings are anomalous altogether, and it isabsurd to attempt to adhere to precedent; here there are noprecedents and no analogies to guide to a decision. London isdrawing to a close, but in August it will be very full, as allthe Peers must be here. They say the trial will last six months. 

Luttrell's poem[44] has succeeded. The approbation it receives isgeneral but qualified; in fact, it was difficult to make such asketch of life and manners sufficiently piquant without theinfusion of a little satire, and his fear of giving offence hasinduced him to be so good-natured that he is occasionally ratherinsipid. 'Il y a des tracasseries de société. ' I cannot recordthem, though perhaps years hence, when I may look over what I nowwrite, I might be amused with stories of long-forgottenjealousies and various interests extinguished by the lapse oftime, or perhaps silenced in the grave; still it would bemelancholy to retrace the days of my youth and to bring before myimagination the blooming faces and the gaiety and brilliancy ofthose who once shone the meteors of society, but who would thenbe so changed in form and mind, and with myself rapidlydescending to our last home. 

 [44] [Mr. Luttrell's 'Advice to Julia, ' published in 1820. ]

Read 'Les Liaisons dangereuses. ' Much has been said about thedangerous tendency of certain books, and probably this would beconsidered as one pregnant with mischief. I consider this a merejargon, and although I would never recommend this book (becauseit is so grossly indecent) I should never apprehend the smallestdanger to the most inexperienced mind or the warmest passionsfrom its immoral tendency. The principle upon which books of thisdescription are considered pernicious is the notion that theyrepresent vice in such glowing and attractive colours as to makeus lose sight of its deformity and fill our imagination with theidea of its pleasures. No one who has any feeling or a spark ofgenerosity or humanity in his breast can read this book withoutbeing moved with compassion for Madame de Tourval and with horrorand disgust towards Valmont and Madame de Merteuil. It raised inmy mind a detestation of such cold-blooded, inhuman profligacy, and I felt that I would rather every pleasure that can flow fromthe intercourse of women were debarred me than run such a course. The moral effect upon my mind was stronger than any which everresulted from the most didactic work, and if anyone wants toexcite remorse in the most vicious mind I would recommend him tomake use of 'Les Liaisons dangereuses' for the purpose. 

The Duchess of York died on Sunday morning of water on her chest. She was insensible the last two days. She is deeply regretted byher husband, her friends, and her servants. Probably no person insuch a situation was ever more really liked. She has left £12, 000to her servants and some children whom she had caused to beeducated. She had arranged all her affairs with the greatestexactitude, and left nothing undone. 

[Page Head: THE QUEEN'S TRIAL. ]

The Queen's letter was brought to the King whilst he was atdinner (at the Cottage). He said, 'Tell the Queen's messengerthat the King can receive no communication from her exceptthrough the hands of his Ministers. ' Esterhazy was present, andsaid he did this with extraordinary dignity. 

Newmarket, October 2nd, 1820 {p. 035}

I left town in the middle of August with George Fox. We went downwith extraordinary rapidity. I never was happier than to escapefrom London and to find myself in Yorkshire. It was a new world, and the change was most refreshing. The refinement of London wasnot there, but there was a good humour, gaiety, and hospitalitywhich amused and delighted me. 

London, October 8th, 1820 {p. 035}

I came to town with Payne on Friday, having won a little atNewmarket. He told me a good story by the way. A certain bishopin the House of Lords rose to speak, and announced that he shoulddivide what he had to say into twelve parts, when the Duke ofWharton interrupted him, and begged he might be indulged for afew minutes, as he had a story to tell which he could onlyintroduce at that moment. A drunken fellow was passing by St. Paul's at night, and heard the clock slowly chiming twelve. Hecounted the strokes, and when it had finished looked towards theclock and said, 'Damn you! why couldn't you give us all that atonce?' There was an end of the bishop's story. 

The town is still in an uproar about the trial, and nobody hasany doubt that it will finish by the Bill being thrown out andthe Ministers turned out. Brougham's speech was the mostmagnificent display of argument and oratory that has been heardfor years, and they say that the impression it made upon theHouse was immense; even his most violent opponents (includingLord Lonsdale) were struck with admiration and astonishment. 

[Page Head: THE QUEEN'S TRIAL. ]

October 15th, 1820 {p. 035}

Since I came to town I have been to the trial every day. I haveoccupied a place close to Brougham, which, besides the advantageit affords of enabling me to hear extremely well everything thatpasses, gives me the pleasure of talking to him and the othercounsel, and puts me behind the scenes so far that I cannot helphearing all their conversation, their remarks, and learning whatwitnesses they are going to examine, and many other things whichare interesting and amusing. Since I have been in the world Inever remember any question which so exclusively occupiedeverybody's attention, and so completely absorbed men's thoughtsand engrossed conversation. In the same degree is the violencedisplayed. It is taken up as a party question entirely, and theconsequence is that everybody is gone mad about it. Very fewpeople admit of any medium between pronouncing the Queen quiteinnocent and judging her guilty and passing the Bill. Until theevidence of Lieut. Hownam it was generally thought that proofs ofher guilt were wanting, but since his admission that Bergamislept under the tent with her all unprejudiced men seem to thinkthe adultery sufficiently proved. The strenuous opposers of theBill, however, by no means allow this, and make a mightydifference between sleeping dressed under a tent and being shutup at night in a room together, which the supporters of the Billcontend would have been quite or nearly the same thing. The Dukeof Portland, who is perfectly impartial, and who has always beenviolently against the Bill, was so satisfied by Hownam's evidencethat he told me that after that admission by him he thought allfurther proceedings useless, and that it was ridiculous to listento any more evidence, as the fact was proved; that he shouldattend no longer to any evidence upon the subject. This view ofthe case will not, however, induce him to vote for the Bill, because he thinks that upon grounds of expediency it ought not topass. The Ministers were elated in an extraordinary manner bythis evidence of Hownam's. The Duke of Wellington told Madame deLieven that he was very tired; 'mais les grands succès fatiguentautant que les grands revers. ' They look upon the progress ofthis trial in the light of a campaign, and upon each day'sproceedings as a sort of battle, and by the impression made bythe evidence they consider that they have gained a victory orsustained a defeat. Their anxiety that this Bill should pass isquite inconceivable, for it cannot be their interest that itshould be carried; and as for the King, they have no feelingwhatever for him. The Duke of Portland told me that he conversedwith the Duke of Wellington upon the subject, and urged as one ofthe reasons why this Bill should not pass the House of Lords thedisgrace that it would entail upon the King by the recriminationthat would ensue in the House of Commons. His answer was 'thatthe King was degraded as low as he could be already. ' Thevehemence with which they pursue this object produces acorresponding violence in their language and sentiments. LadyHarrowby, who is usually very indifferent upon politicalsubjects, has taken this up with unusual eagerness. In anargument which I had with her the day before yesterday, she saidthat if the House of Lords was to suffer itself to be influencedby the opinions and wishes of the people, it would be the mostmean and pusillanimous conduct, and that after all what did itsignify what the people thought or what they expressed if thearmy was to be depended upon? I answered that I never hadexpected that the day would come when I should be told that wewere to disregard the feelings and wishes of the people of thiscountry, and to look to our army for support. In proportionas the Ministers were elated by what came out in Hownam'scross-examination so were they depressed by the unlucky affair ofRastelli, [45] which has given such an important advantage totheir adversaries. Mr. Powell's explanation was extremelyunsatisfactory, and in his examination yesterday they elicitedfrom him what is tantamount to a contradiction of what he hadsaid the day before. It is not possible to doubt what is the realstate of the case. Rastelli is an active, useful agent, and theyhad occasion for his services; consequently they sent him off, and trusted that he would be back here before he could possiblybe called for, if ever he should be called for again. It was arash speculation, which failed. The last two days have been moreamusing and interesting than the preceding ones. The debates inthe House, a good deal of violence, and some personalities havegiven spirit to the proceedings, which were getting very dull. Lord Holland made a violent speech, and Lord Carnarvon a cleverone, which was violent enough too, on Rastelli's affair. LordHolland made one or two little speeches which were very comical. Lord Lauderdale made a violent speech the other day, and paidhimself in it a great many compliments. It must be acknowledgedthat the zeal of many of the Peers is very embarrassing, displayed as it is not in the elucidation of the truth, but infurtherance of that cause of which they desire the success. Thereis no one more violent than Lord Lauderdale, [46] and neither theAttorney-General nor the Solicitor-General can act with greaterzeal than he does in support of the Bill. Lord Liverpool is amodel of fairness, impartiality, and candour. The Chancellor isequally impartial, and as he decides personally all disputes onlegal points which are referred to the House, his fairness hasbeen conspicuous in having generally decided in favour of theQueen's counsel. Yesterday morning some discussion arose about aquestion which Brougham put to Powell. He asked him who was hisprincipal, as he was an agent. The question was objected to, andhe began to defend it in an uncommonly clever speech, but wasstopped before he had spoken long. He introduced a very ingeniousquotation which was suggested to him by Spencer Perceval, who wasstanding near him. Talking of the airy, unsubstantial being whowas the principal, and one of the parties in this cause, he saidhe wished to meet

 This shape-- If shape it could be called--that shape had none, Distinguishable in member, joint, or limb; Or substance might be called that shadow seemed, For each seemed either . . . What seemed its head The likeness of a kingly crown had on. _Paradise Lost_, ii. 666. 

 [45] [Rastelli was a witness for the Bill--not a very important one. After his examination was over he was allowed to leave the country. Brougham found this out, and instantly demanded that he should be recalled for further cross-examination, well knowing this could not at the moment be done. This answered his purpose, and he then turned with incredible vehemence on the other side, and accused them of spiriting away the witness. ]

 [46] [In the course of the trial, in order to show that the Queen had associated in Italy with ladies of good character, it was stated that a Countess T---- frequented her society at Florence. On cross-examination it came out that the Countess spoke a provincial dialect, anything but the purest Tuscan, whence it was implied that she was a vulgar person, and Lord Lauderdale especially pointed out this inference, speaking himself in very broad Scotch. Upon which Lord ----, a member of the Opposition, said to the witness, 'Have the goodness to state whether Countess T---- spoke Italian with as broad an accent as the noble Earl who has just sat down speaks with in his native tongue. ' The late Sir Henry Holland was present when this occurred, and used to relate the anecdote. ]

[Page Head: WELLINGTON'S ACCOUNT OF WATERLOO. ]

Whersted, December 10th, 1820 {p. 039}

I left Woburn on Thursday night last, and got here on Fridaymorning. The Lievens, Worcesters, Duke of Wellington, Neumann, and Montagu were here. The Duke went away yesterday. We actedcharades, which were very well done. Yesterday we went to shootat Sir Philip Brookes'. As we went in the carriage, the Duketalked a great deal about the battle of Waterloo and differentthings relating to that campaign. He said that he had 50, 000 menat Waterloo. He began the campaign with 85, 000 men, lost 5, 000 onthe 16th, and had a corps of 20, 000 at Hal under PrinceFrederick. He said that it was remarkable that nobody who hadever spoken of these operations had ever made mention of thatcorps, [47] and Bonaparte was certainly ignorant of it. In thiscorps were the best of the Dutch troops; it had been placed therebecause the Duke expected the attack to be made on that side. Hesaid that the French army was the best army that was ever seen, and that in the previous operations Bonaparte's march uponBelgium was the finest thing that ever was done--so rapid and sowell combined. His object was to beat the armies in detail, andthis object succeeded in so far as that he attacked themseparately; but from the extraordinary celerity with which theallied armies were got together he was not able to realise theadvantages he had promised himself. The Duke says that theycertainly were not prepared for this attack, [48] as the Frenchhad previously broken up the roads by which their army advanced;but as it was in summer this did not render them impassable. Hesays that Bonaparte beat the Prussians in a most extraordinaryway, as the battle[49] was gained in less than four hours; butthat it would probably have been more complete if he had broughta greater number of troops into action, and not detached so largea body against the British corps. There were 40, 000 men opposedto the Duke on the 16th, but he says that the attack was not sopowerful as it ought to have been with such a force. The Frenchhad made a long march the day before the battle, and had drivenin the Prussian posts in the evening. I asked him if he thoughtBonaparte had committed any fault. He said he thought he hadcommitted a fault in attacking him in the position of Waterloo;that his object ought to have been to remove him as far aspossible from the Prussian army, and that he ought consequentlyto have moved upon Hal, and to have attempted to penetrate by thesame road by which the Duke had himself advanced. He had alwayscalculated upon Bonaparte's doing this, and for this purpose hehad posted 20, 000 men under Prince Frederick at Hal. He said thatthe position at Waterloo was uncommonly strong, but that thestrength of it consisted alone in the two farms of Hougoumont andLa Haye Sainte, both of which were admirably situated and adaptedfor defence. In Hougoumont there were never more than from 300 to500 men, who were reinforced as it was necessary; and althoughthe French repeatedly attacked this point, and sometimes with notless than 20, 000 men, they never could even approach it. Had theyobtained possession of it, they could not have maintained it, asit was open on one side to the whole fire of the English lines, whilst it was sheltered on the side towards the French. The Dukesaid the farm of La Haye Sainte was still better than that ofHougoumont, and that it never would have been taken if theofficer who was commanding there had not neglected to make anaperture through which ammunition could be conveyed to hisgarrison. 

 [47] [The Duke of Wellington has frequently been criticised for leaving so important a body of troops at Hal, so far upon his right that they were of no use in the battle. He always defended this disposition, and maintained that the greater probability was that Napoleon would attack his extreme right and advance by Hal. On this occasion (in 1820) he himself drew attention to it, as is explained in the text. ]

 [48] [This passage is obscure, as the pronoun _they_ can hardly refer to the allied armies: but it stands so in the MS. ]

 [49] [The battle of Ligny, 16th of June, 1815. ]

[Page Head: WELLINGTON AND BLUCHER IN PARIS. ]

When we arrived at Sir Philip Brookes' it rained, and we wereobliged to sit in the house, when the Duke talked a great dealabout Paris and different things. He told us that Blücher wasdetermined to destroy the Bridge of Jena. The Duke spoke toMüffling, the Governor of Paris, and desired him to persuadeBlücher to abandon this design. However, Blücher was quitedetermined. He said the French had destroyed the pillar atRosbach and other things, and that they merited this retaliation. He also said that the English had burnt Washington, and he didnot see why he was not to destroy this bridge. Müffling, however, concerted with the Duke that English sentinels should be placedon the bridge, and if any Prussian soldiers should approach toinjure it, these sentinels were not to retire. This theyconceived would gain time, as they thought that previous tomaking any attempt on the bridge Blücher would apply to the Duketo withdraw the English sentinels. This was of no avail. ThePrussians arrived, mined the arches, and attempted to blow up thebridge, sentinels and all. Their design, however, was frustrated, and the bridge received no injury. At length Müffling came to theDuke, and said that he was come to propose to him a compromise, which was that the bridge should be spared and the column in thePlace Vendôme should be destroyed instead. 'I saw, ' said theDuke, 'that I had got out of the frying-pan into the fire. Fortunately at this moment the King of Prussia arrived, and heordered that no injury should be done to either. ' On anotheroccasion Blücher announced his intention of levying a contributionof 100 millions on the city of Paris. To this the Duke objected, and said that the raising such enormous contributions could onlybe done by common consent, and must be a matter of generalarrangement. Blücher said, 'Oh! I do not mean to be the onlyparty who is to levy anything; you may levy as much foryourselves, and, depend upon it, if you do it will all be paid;there will be no difficulty whatever. ' The Duke says that the twoinvasions cost the French 100 millions sterling. The Allies had1, 200, 000 men clothed at their expense; the allowance for thiswas 60 francs a man. The army of occupation was entirelymaintained; there were the contributions, the claims amounting toten millions sterling. Besides this there were towns and villagesdestroyed and country laid waste. 

 CHAPTER II. 

Popularity of George IV. --The Duke of York's Racing Establishment--Clerk of the Council--Lord Liverpool and Mr. Sumner--Lady Conyngham--Death of Lady Worcester--Her Character--Ball at Devonshire House--The Duke of York's Aversion to the Duke of Wellington--The Pavilion at Brighton-- Lord Francis Conyngham--The King and the Duke of Wellington-- Death of the Marquis of Londonderry--His Policy--Sir B. Bloomfield sent to Stockholm--Mr. Canning's Foreign Secretary-- Queen Caroline and Brougham--Canning and George IV. --Lord William Bentinck aspires to go to India--His Disappointment-- The Duke of York's Duel with Colonel Lennox--George III. 's Will--George IV. Appropriates the late King's Personal Property--The Duke of Wellington on the Congress of Verona and on the Politics of Europe--Intervention in Spain--Ferdinand VII. --M. De Villèle--The Duke's opinion of Napoleon--Sir William Knighton--The Duke of York's Anecdotes of George IV. -- Death of the Marquis of Titchfield--His character. 

 1821. 

London, February 7th, 1821 {p. 043}

The King went to the play last night (Drury Lane) for the firsttime, the Dukes of York and Clarence and a great suite with him. He was received with immense acclamations, the whole pit standingup, hurrahing and waving their hats. The boxes were very empty atfirst, for the mob occupied the avenues to the theatre, and thosewho had engaged boxes could not get to them. The crowd on theoutside was very great. Lord Hertford dropped one of the candlesas he was lighting the King in, and made a great confusion in thebox. The King sat in Lady Bessborough's box, which was fitted upfor him. He goes to Covent Garden to-night. A few people called'The Queen, ' but very few. A man in the gallery called out, 'Where's your wife, Georgy?'

February 11th, 1821 {p. 044}

I came to town from Euston the end of last month. The debateswere expected to be very stormy and the minorities very large, not that anybody expected Ministers to go out. It has all endedas such anticipations usually do, in everything going off veryquietly and the Government obtaining large majorities. TheirParliamentary successes and the King's reception have greatlyelated them, and they think (and with reason probably) that theyare likely to enjoy their places for the term of their naturallives, not that they care about the King's popularity except inas much as it may add strength to their Administration. They donot conceal their contempt or dislike of him, and it is one ofthe phenomena of the present times that the King should haveMinisters whom he abuses and hates, and who entertain correspondingsentiments of aversion to him; yet they defend all his errors andfollies, and he affords them constant countenance and protection. However, the King was delighted by his reception at the theatres, and told Lady Bessborough, as he came downstairs, he never wasmore gratified. 

February 23rd, 1821 {p. 044}

Yesterday the Duke of York proposed to me to take the managementof his horses, which I accepted. Nothing could be more kind thanthe manner in which he proposed it. [1]

 [1] [Mr. Greville continued to manage the racing establishment of the Duke of York from this time till the death of his Royal Highness. ]

March 5th, 1821 {p. 044}

I have experienced a great proof of the vanity of human wishes. In the course of three weeks I have attained the three thingswhich I have most desired in the world for years past, and uponthe whole I do not feel that my happiness is at all increased;perhaps if it were not for one cause it might be, but until thatceases to exist it is in vain that I acquire every otheradvantage or possess the means of amusement. [2]

 [2] [One of these things was Mr. Greville's appointment as Clerk of the Council; the second was his connection with the Duke of York in his racing establishment; I am ignorant of the third. ]

[Page Head: THE CLERKSHIP OF THE COUNCIL. ]

March 22nd, 1821 {p. 044}

I was sworn in the day before yesterday, and kissed hands at aCouncil at Carlton House yesterday morning as Clerk of theCouncil. 

March 25th, 1821 {p. 045}

Lord Fife has been dismissed from his place of Lord of theBedchamber for voting against the Malt Tax, and Lord Lovaine hasbeen appointed instead. 

April 19th, 1821 {p. 045}

The night before last Hobhouse made his furious attack uponCanning. Last night everybody expected that Canning would speak, and was extremely anxious to hear what notice he would take ofHobhouse. The army estimates came on first in the evening, andalmost all the members went away, intending to return to theReform debate, but when Reform came on there were only 100members in the House. 'Le combat finit faute de combattans, ' andwhen everybody came crowding down at nine o'clock the House hadbeen up half an hour, having divided 53 to 41. [3]

 [3] [On the 17th of April Mr. Lambton (afterwards Earl of Durham) moved for a Committee of the whole House to consider the state of the representation of the people in Parliament. It was owing to the misapprehension described in the text that the division was so small. ]

May 2nd, 1821 {p. 045}

When the Canonry of Windsor became vacant Lady Conyngham askedthe King to give it to Mr. Sumner, [4] who had been MountCharles's tutor. The King agreed: the man was sent for, andkissed hands at Brighton. A letter was written to Lord Liverpoolto announce the appointment. In the meantime Lord Liverpool hadsent a list of persons, one of whom he should recommend tosucceed to the vacancy, and the letters crossed. As soon as LordLiverpool received the letter from Brighton he got into hiscarriage and went down to the King, to state that unless he wasallowed to have the distribution of this patronage without anyinterference, he could not carry on the Government, and wouldresign his office if Sumner was appointed. The man was only acurate, and had never held a living at all. The King 'chantapalinodie, ' and a sort of compromise was made, by which LadyConyngham's friend was withdrawn, and the King begged it might begiven to Dr. Clarke, to which appointment Lord Liverpoolconsented, although he did not approve of him; he did not, however, wish to appear too difficult. 

 [4] [Afterwards Bishop of Winchester. This was the beginning of the fortune of that amiable prelate, of whom it must be said that if he owed his early advancement to a questionable influence, no man has filled the episcopal office with more unaffected piety, dignity, and goodness. The difference between George IV. And Lord Liverpool on this occasion was a very serious one. The Duke of Wellington referred to it in a confidential letter to Lord Liverpool, written on the 26th of October, 1821, in the following terms:--'As I told you at Windsor, the King has never forgiven your opposition to his wishes in the case of Mr. Sumner. This feeling has influenced every action of his life in relation to his Government from that moment; and I believe to more than one of us he avowed that his objection to Mr. Canning was that his accession to the Government was peculiarly desirable to you. Nothing can be more unjust or more unfair than this feeling; and as there is not one of your colleagues who did not highly approve of what you did respecting Mr. Sumner, so there is not one of them who would not suffer with you all the consequences of that act. ' ('Correspondence of the Duke of Wellington, ' Second Series, vol. I. P. 195; published in 1867. )]

Lady Conyngham lives in one of the houses in Marlborough Row. Allthe members of her family are continually there, and are suppliedwith horses, carriages, &c. , from the King's stables. She ridesout with her daughter, but never with the King, who always rideswith one of his gentlemen. They never appear in public together. She dines there every day. Before the King comes into the roomshe and Lady Elizabeth join him in another room, and he alwayswalks in with one on each arm. She comports herself entirely asmistress of the house, but never suffers her daughter to leaveher. She has received magnificent presents, and Lady Elizabeththe same; particularly the mother has strings of pearls ofenormous value. Madame de Lieven said she had seen the pearls ofthe Grand Duchesses and the Prussian Princesses, but had neverseen any nearly so fine as Lady Conyngham's. The other night LadyBath was coming to the Pavilion. After dinner Lady Conynghamcalled to Sir William Keppel and said, 'Sir William, do desirethem to light up the saloon' (this saloon is lit by hundreds ofcandles). When the King came in she said to him, 'Sir, I toldthem to light up the saloon, as Lady Bath is coming thisevening. ' The King seized her arm and said with the greatesttenderness, 'Thank you, thank you, my dear; you always do what isright; you cannot please me so much as by doing everything youplease, everything to show that you are mistress here. '

[Page Head: THE DEATH OF LADY WORCESTER. ]

May 12th, 1821 {p. 047}

I have suffered the severest pain I ever had in my life by thedeath of Lady Worcester. [5] I loved her like a sister, and I havelost one of the few persons in the world who cared for me, andwhose affection and friendship serve to make life valuable to me. She has been cut off in the prime of her life and in the bloom ofher beauty, and so suddenly too. Seven days ago she was at a ballat Court, and she is now no more. She died like a heroine, fullof cheerfulness and courage to the last. She has been snatchedfrom life at a time when she was becoming every day more fit tolive, for her mind, her temper, and her understanding weregradually and rapidly improving; she had faults, but her mind wasnot vicious, and her defects may be ascribed to her education andto the actual state of the society in which she lived. Hervirtues were inherent in her character; every day developed themmore and more, and they were such as to make the happiness of allwho lived with her and to captivate the affection of all whoreally knew her. I have never lost anyone I loved before, andthough I know the grief I now feel will soon subside (for so thelaws of nature have ordained), long, long will it be before Iforget her, or before my mind loses the lively impression of hervirtues and of our mutual friendship. 

 [5] [Georgiana Frederica, Marchioness of Worcester, daughter of the Hon. Charles Fitzroy, married to Henry, afterwards seventh Duke of Beaufort, in 1814, died 11th of May, 1821. This lamented lady left two daughters, afterwards Lady Augusta Neumann and Lady Georgiana Codrington. ]

This is one of those melancholy events in life to which the mindcannot for a long time reconcile or accustom itself. I saw her soshort a time ago 'glittering like the morning star, full of lifeand splendour and joy;' the accents of her voice still so vibratein my ear that I cannot believe I shall never see her again. Whata subject for contemplation and for moralising! What reflectionscrowd into the mind!

Dr. Hume told me once he had witnessed many death-beds, but hehad never seen anything like the fortitude and resignationdisplayed by her. She died in his arms, and without pain. As lifeebbed away her countenance changed, and when at length she ceasedto breathe, a beautiful and tranquil smile settled upon her face. 

 Call round her tomb each, object of desire, Each, purer frame informed by purer fire; Let her be all that cheers or softens life, The tender sister, daughter, friend, and wife: Bid her be all that makes mankind adore, Then view this marble, and be vain no more. 

June 24th, 1821 {p. 048}

The King dined at Devonshire House last Thursday se'nnight. LadyConyngham had on her head a sapphire which belonged to theStuarts, and was given by Cardinal York to the King. He gave itto the Princess Charlotte, and when she died he desired to haveit back, Leopold being informed it was a crown jewel. This crownjewel sparkled in the headdress of the Marchioness at the ball. Iascertained the Duke of York's sentiments upon this subject theother day. He was not particularly anxious to discuss it, but hesaid enough to show that he has no good opinion of her. The otherday, as we were going to the races from Oatlands, he gave me thehistory of the Duke of Wellington's life. His prejudice againsthim is excessively strong, and I think if ever he becomes Kingthe other will not be Commander-in-Chief. He does not deny hismilitary talents, but he thinks that he is false and ungrateful, that he never gave sufficient credit to his officers, and that hewas unwilling to put forward men of talent who might be in asituation to claim some share of credit, the whole of which hewas desirous of engrossing himself. He says that at Waterloo hegot into a scrape and avowed himself to be surprised, and heattributes in great measure the success of that day to LordAnglesea, who, he says, was hardly mentioned, and that in thecoldest terms, in the Duke's despatch. [6]

 [6] [The unjust and unfavourable opinion expressed of the Duke of Wellington by the Duke of York dated from the appointment of Sir Arthur Wellesley to a high command, and afterwards to the chief command of the army in Portugal. The Duke of York had at one moment entertained hopes of commanding that army, but when he was made to understand that this was impossible he erroneously attributed this disappointment to the intrigues of those who were preferred before him. This matter is explained with further particulars _sub_ 24th of December, 1822. ]

[Page Head: THE PAVILION. ]

December 18th, 1821 {p. 049}

I have not written anything for months. 'Quante cose mi sonoaccadute!' My progress was as follows, not very interesting:--ToNewmarket, Whersted, Riddlesworth, Sprotborough, Euston, Elveden, Welbeck, Caversham, Nun Appleton, Welbeck, Burghley, and London. Nothing worth mentioning occurred at any of these places. Sprotborough was agreeable enough. The Grevilles, Montagu, Wilmot, and the Wortleys were there. I came to town, went toBrighton yesterday se'nnight for a Council. I was lodged in thePavilion and dined with the King. The gaudy splendour of theplace amused me for a little and then bored me. The dinner wascold and the evening dull beyond all dulness. They say the Kingis anxious that form and ceremony should be banished, and if soit only proves how impossible it is that form and ceremony shouldnot always inhabit a palace. The rooms are not furnished forsociety, and, in fact, society cannot flourish without ease; andwho can feel at ease who is under the eternal constraint whichetiquette and respect impose? The King was in good looks and goodspirits, and after dinner cut his jokes with all the coarsemerriment which is his characteristic. Lord Wellesley did notseem to like it, but of course he bowed and smiled like the rest. I saw nothing very particular in the King's manner to LadyConyngham. He sat by her on the couch almost the whole evening, playing at patience, and he took her in to dinner; but Madame deLieven and Lady Cowper were there, and he seemed equally civil toall of them. I was curious to see the Pavilion and the life theylead there, and I now only hope I may never go there again, forthe novelty is past, and I should be exposed to the whole weightof the bore of it without the stimulus of curiosity. 

December 19th, 1821 {p. 049}

I dined with Lord Gwydir yesterday, and sat next to PrinceLieven. He told me that Bloomfield is no longer in favour, thathe has been supplanted by Lord Francis Conyngham, [7] who nowperforms almost all the functions which formerly appertained toBloomfield. He is quite aware of his decline, and submits himselfto it in a manly way. He is no longer so necessary to the King ashe was, for a short time ago he could not bear that Bloomfieldshould be absent, and _now_ his absence is unfelt. Francis goesto the King every morning, usually breakfasts with him, andreceives all his orders. He was invited to go to Panshanger fortwo days, and was very anxious to go, but he could not obtainleave from the King to absent himself. Bloomfield does not puthimself forward; 'même il se retire, ' he said, and it isunderstood that he has made up his mind to resign his situationand leave the Court. The King is still perfectly civil andgood-humoured to him, but has withdrawn his confidence from him, and Bloomfield is no longer his first servant. 

 [7] [Lord Francis Conyngham, second son of the first Marquis of Conyngham (who was raised to the British peerage in June 1821), afterwards himself Marquis of Conyngham. ]

I asked Lieven whether Francis Conyngham, in performing the otherduties which had been hitherto allotted to Bloomfield, alsoexercised the functions of Private Secretary, because thisinvolved a much more serious question. He said that he did notknow; all he knew was that whilst he was at Brighton Bloomfieldwas absent for five days, and that during that time the other hadostensibly occupied the place which Bloomfield used to hold aboutthe King's person. The commencement of this revolution in theKing's sentiments is to be dated from the journey to Hanover. NowBloomfield sits amongst the guests at dinner at the Pavilion; thehonours are done by the father on one side and the son on theother. 

 1822. 

July 16th, 1822 {p. 050}

Since I wrote last I have been continually in town. I have won onthe Derby, my sister is married, [8] and I have done nothing worthrecording. How habit and practice change our feelings, ouropinions; and what an influence they have upon our thoughts andactions! Objects which I used to contemplate at an immeasurabledistance, and to attain which I thought would be the summit offelicity, I have found worth very little in comparison to thevalue my imagination used to set upon them. .. . London is nearlyover, has been tolerably agreeable; but I have been very oftenbored to death by the necessity of paying some attention to keepup an interest. 

 [8] [Miss Greville married Lord Francis Leveson Gower, afterwards Earl of Ellesmere, in 1822. ]

July 30th, 1822 {p. 051}

Madame de Lieven is ill with the King, and is miserable inconsequence. Lady Cowper is her _confidante_, and the Duke ofWellington; but this latter pretends to know nothing of it, andasked me the other day what it was, I am sure in order todiscover what people say. When the Duke was at Brighton in thewinter, he and the King had a dispute about the army. It began(it was at dinner) by the King's saying that the Russians or thePrussians (I forget which) were the best infantry in the world. The Duke said, 'Except your Majesty's. ' The King then said theEnglish cavalry were the best, which the Duke denied; then thatan inferior number of French regiments would always beat asuperior number of English, and, in short, that they were nothalf so effective. The King was very angry; the dispute waxedwarm, and ended by his Majesty rising from table and saying, 'Well, it is not for me to dispute on such a subject with yourGrace. ' The King does not like the Duke, nor does the Duke ofYork. This I know from himself. 

[Page Head: DEATH OF LORD LONDONDERRY. ]

August 13th, 1822 {p. 051}

I went to Cirencester on Friday and came back yesterday. AtHounslow I heard of the death of Lord Londonderry. [9] When I gotto town I met several people who had all assumed an air ofmelancholy, a _visage de circonstance_, which provoked meinexpressibly, because it was certain that they did not care;indeed, if they felt at all, it was probably rather satisfactionat an event happening than sorrow for the death of the person. Itseems Lord Londonderry had been unwell for some time, but notseriously, and a few days before this catastrophe he became muchworse, and was very much dejected. He told Lord Granville sometime ago that he was worn out with fatigue, and he told CountMünster the other day that he was very ill indeed. The Duke ofWellington saw him on Friday, and was so struck by the appearanceof illness about him that he sent Bankhead to him. He was cuppedon Saturday in London, got better, and went to Foot's Cray. OnSunday he was worse, and the state of dejection in which heappeared induced his attendants to take certain precautions, which unfortunately, however, proved fruitless. They removed hispistols and his razors, but he got hold of a penknife which wasin the room next his, and on Sunday night or early on Mondaymorning he cut his throat with it. There is not a Minister intown but Lord Liverpool, Vansittart, and the Chancellor. LordBathurst is at Cirencester, the Duke of Wellington in Holland, Lord Sidmouth in Yorkshire, Peel and Lord Melville in Scotlandwith the King. No event ever gave rise to more speculation withthe few people there are left to speculate, and the generalopinion seems to be that Canning will not go to India, [10] butwill be appointed in his room. It certainly opens a door to hisambition as well as to that of Peel, who, unless Canning comesinto office, must of necessity lead the House of Commons. Anotherspeculation is that Lord Liverpool will take this opportunity ofresigning, and that the King will form a Whig Ministry. I do notbelieve Lord Liverpool wishes to resign, and my opinion is thatCanning will come into office. 

 [9] [Lord Castlereagh, far better known by that name, succeeded as second Marquis of Londonderry on the 11th of April, 1821--only sixteen months before his death. ]

 [10] [Mr. Canning had just accepted the office of Governor-General of India, and was about to go out to that country. ]

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF LORD LONDONDERRY. ]

I had hardly any acquaintance with Lord Londonderry, andtherefore am not in the slightest degree affected by his death. As a Minister he is a great loss to his party, and still greaterto his friends and dependents, to whom he was the best ofpatrons; to the country I think he is none. Nobody can deny thathis talents were great, and perhaps he owed his influence andauthority as much to his character as to his abilities. Hisappearance was dignified and imposing; he was affable in hismanners and agreeable in society. The great feature of hischaracter was a cool and determined courage, which gave anappearance of resolution and confidence to all his actions, andinspired his friends with admiration and excessive devotion tohim, and caused him to be respected by his most violentopponents. As a speaker he was prolix, monotonous, and nevereloquent, except, perhaps, for a few minutes when provoked into apassion by something which had fallen out in debate. But, notwithstanding these defects, and still more the ridicule whichhis extraordinary phraseology had drawn upon him, he was alwaysheard with attention. He never spoke ill; his speeches werecontinually replete with good sense and strong argument, andthough they seldom offered much to admire, they generallycontained a great deal to be answered. I believe he wasconsidered one of the best managers of the House of Commons whoever sat in it, and he was eminently possessed of the good taste, good humour, and agreeable manners which are more requisite tomake a good leader than eloquence, however brilliant. With thesequalities, it may be asked why he was not a better Minister, andwho can answer that question? or who can aver that he did notpursue the policy which he conscientiously believed to be mostadvantageous to his country? Nay, more, who can say but fromsurmise and upon speculation that it was not the best? I believethat he was seduced by his vanity, that his head was turned byemperors, kings, and congresses, and that he was resolved thatthe country which he represented should play as conspicuous apart as any other in the political dramas which were acted on theContinent. The result of his policy is this, that we are mixed upin the affairs of the Continent in a manner we have never beenbefore, which entails upon us endless negotiations and enormousexpenses. We have associated ourselves with the members of theHoly Alliance, and countenanced the acts of ambition anddespotism in such a manner as to have drawn upon us thedetestation of the nations of the Continent; and our conducttowards them at the close of the war has brought a stain upon ourcharacter for bad faith and desertion which no time will wipeaway, and the recollection of which will never be effaced fromtheir minds. 

August 19th, 1822 {p. 019}

I went to Brighton on Saturday to see the Duke [of York];returned to-day. The Pavilion is finished. The King has had asubterranean passage made from the house to the stables, which issaid to have cost £3, 000 or £5, 000; I forget which. There is alsoa bath in his apartment, with pipes to conduct water from thesea; these pipes cost £600. The King has not taken a sea bath forsixteen years. 

The Marquis of Londonderry is to be buried to-morrow inWestminster Abbey. It is thought injudicious to have anythinglike an ostentatious funeral, considering the circumstances underwhich he died, but it is the particular wish of his widow. Sheseems to consider the respect which is paid to his remains as asort of testimony to his character, and nothing will pacify herfeelings or satisfy her affection but seeing him interred withall imaginable honours. It seems that he gave several indicationsof a perturbed mind a short time previous to his death. For sometime past he had been dejected, and his mind was haunted withvarious apprehensions, particularly with a notion that he was ingreat personal danger. On the day (the 3rd of August) he gave agreat dinner at Cray to his political friends, some of themfinding the wine very good, wished to compliment him upon it, andArbuthnot called out, 'Lord Londonderry!' He instantly jumped upwith great vivacity, and stood as if in expectation of somethingserious that was to follow. When he was told that it was aboutthe wine they wished to speak to him, he sat down; but his mannerwas so extraordinary that Huskisson remarked it to Wilmot as theycame home. In the last interview which the Duke of Wellington hadwith him he said he never heard him converse upon affairs withmore clearness and strength of mind than that day. In the middleof the conversation, however, he said, 'To prove to you whatdanger I am in, my own servants think so, and that I ought to gooff directly, that I have no time to lose, and they keep myhorses saddled that I may get away quickly; they think that Ishould not have time to go away in a carriage. ' Then ringing thebell violently, he said to the servant, 'Tell me, sir, instantlywho ordered my horses here; who sent them up to town?' The mananswered that the horses were at Cray, and had never been intown. The Duke desired the man to go, and in consequence of thisstrange behaviour wrote the letter to Bankhead which has beensince published. 

August 20th, 1822 {p. 055}

Knighton went with the King to Scotland, and slept in one of hisMajesty's own cabins, that next to him. He is supposed to havebeen appointed Privy Purse. Bloomfield has got the mission toStockholm. When Bloomfield was dismissed a disposition was shownto treat him in a very unceremonious manner; but he would notstand this, and displayed a spirit which he was probably enabledto assume in consequence of what he knows. When they found he wasnot to be bullied they treated with him, and gave him everyhonour and emolument he could desire. 

[Page Head: CANNING RETURNS TO OFFICE. ]

September 22nd, 1822 {p. 055}

I saw Lady Bathurst on the 13th. Canning had not then sent hisanswer, and greatly surprised were the Ministers at the delay. Lord Liverpool's proposal to him was simple and unclogged withconditions--the Foreign Office and the lead in the House ofCommons. The King's repugnance to his coming into office wasextreme, and it required all the efforts of his Ministers tosurmount it. The Duke of Wellington and Peel have all the creditof having persuaded the King to consent, but Lord Bathurst'sarguments influenced him as much as those of any person, and hetold Lady Conyngham that he was more satisfied by what LordBathurst had said to him on the subject than by any of theMinisters. I know that amongst the Canning party Lord Bathurst issupposed to have joined with the Chancellor in opposing hisappointment. The danger in which the Duke of Wellington wassensibly affected the King, because at this moment the Duke is inhigh favour with him; and when he heard he was so ill he sentKnighton to him to comfort him with a promise that he wouldreconsider the proposal of receiving Canning, and the next day hesignified his consent. I saw a note from Lady Conyngham to LadyBathurst, in which she gave an account of the uneasiness andagitation in which the King had been in consequence of the Duke'sillness, saying how much she had suffered in consequence, and howgreat had been _their_ relief, when Knighton brought word that hewas better. The 'dear King, ' she said, was more composed. Sheadded that she (Lady B. ) would hear that evening what would giveher pleasure, and this was that the King had agreed to takeCanning. In a conversation also Lady C. Said that she did hope, now the King had yielded his own inclination to the wishes andadvice of his Ministers, that they would behave to him betterthan they had done. Canning was sworn in on Monday. His friendssay that he was very well received. The King told Madame deLieven that having consented to receive him, he had behaved tohim, as _he always did_, in the most gentlemanlike manner hecould, and that on delivering to him the seals, he said to himthat he had been advised by his Ministers that his abilities andeloquence rendered him the only fit man to succeed to the vacancywhich Lord Londonderry's death had made, and that, in appointinghim to the situation, he had only to desire that he would followthe steps of his predecessor. This Madame de Lieven told to LadyJersey, and she to me. It seems that the King was so struck withLord Londonderry's manner (for he said to the King nearly what hesaid to the Duke of Wellington), and so persuaded that some fatalcatastrophe would take place, that when Peel came to inform himof what had happened, he said to him before he spoke, 'I know youare come to tell me that Londonderry is dead. ' Peel had just lefthim, and upon receiving the despatches immediately returned; andwhen Lady Conyngham was told by Lord Mount Charles that there wasa report that he was dead, she said, 'Good God! then he hasdestroyed himself. ' She knew what had passed with the King, andwas the only person to whom he had told it. 

September 23rd, 1822 {p. 057}

George Bentinck, who thinks there never existed such a man asCanning, and who probably has heard from him some circumstancesconnected with his resignation at the time of the Queen's trial, told ---- that it was in consequence of a dispute between theKing and his Ministers concerning the payment of the expenses ofthe Milan Commission. The Ministers wished the King to paythe expenses himself, and he wished them to be defrayed byGovernment. Lord Londonderry promised the King (without theconcurrence of the other Ministers) that the expenses should bepaid by Government, but with money ostensibly appropriated toother purposes. This Canning could not endure, and resigned. Suchis his story, which probably is partly true and partly false. 

[Page Head: QUEEN CAROLINE'S RETURN. ]

November 5th, 1822 {p. 057}

I have been to Newmarket, Euston, Riddlesworth, Rendlesham, Whersted, besides going to town several times and to Brighton. Since I left London for the Doncaster races I have travelled near1, 200 miles. At Riddlesworth the Duke of York told me a greatdeal about the Queen and Brougham, but he was so unintelligiblethat part I could not make out and part I do not remember. What Ican recollect amounts to this, that the Emperor of Austria wasthe first person who informed the King of the Queen's conduct inItaly, that after the enquiry was set on foot a negotiation wasentered into with the Queen, the basis of which was that sheshould abdicate the title of Queen, and that to this she hadconsented. He said that Brougham had acted a double part, forthat he had acquiesced in the propriety of her acceding to thoseterms, and had promised that he would go over to her and confirmher in her resolution to agree to them; that he had not only notgone, but that whilst he was making these promises to Governmenthe had written to the Queen desiring her to come over. The Duketold me that a man (whose name he did not mention) came to himand said, 'So the Queen comes over?' He said, 'No, she does not. 'The man said, 'I know she does, for Brougham has written toher to come; I saw the letter. ' If Lord Liverpool and LordLondonderry had thought proper to publish what had been done onthe part of Brougham, he would have been covered with infamy; butthey would not do it, and he thinks they were wrong. The rest Icannot remember. [11]

 [11] [This is an erroneous and imperfect account of this important transaction, the particulars of which are related by Lord Brougham in his 'Memoirs, ' cap. Xvi. Vol. Ii. P. 352, and still more fully by Mr. Yonge in his 'Life of Lord Liverpool, ' vol. Iii. P. 52. Mr. Brougham had sent his brother James to the Queen at Geneva to dissuade her from setting out for England, but, as he himself observes, 'I was quite convinced that if she once set out she never would stop short. ' He met her himself at St. Omer, being the bearer of a memorandum dated the 15th of April, 1820, which contained the terms proposed by the King's Government. He went to St. Omer in company with Lord Hutchinson, but Mr. Brougham, and not Lord Hutchinson, was the bearer of these propositions. Lord Hutchinson had no copy of the document. The extraordinary part of Mr. Brougham's conduct was that he never at all submitted or made known to the Queen the memorandum of the 15th of April; and she knew nothing of it till she had reached London, when all negotiation was broken off. This fact Lord Brougham does not explain in his 'Memoirs;' but Lord Hutchinson declared in his report to Lord Liverpool that in truth Brougham 'did not appear to possess the smallest degree of power, weight, or authority over the mind of the Queen' when at St. Omer. ]

[Page Head: CANNING AND GEORGE IV. ]

Welbeck, November 16th, 1822 {p. 058}

I have had a great deal of conversation with Titchfield, [12]particularly about Canning, and he told me this curious fact abouthis coming into office:--When the King had consented to receivehim he wrote a letter nearly in these words to Lord Liverpool:'The King thinks that the brightest jewel in the crown is toextend his forgiveness [I am not sure that this was the word[13]]to a subject who has offended him, and he therefore informs LordL. That he consents to Mr. Canning forming a part of the Cabinet. 'This letter was communicated by Lord Liverpool to Canning, andupon reading it he was indignant, as were his wife and hisdaughter. The consequence was that he wrote a most violent andindignant reply, addressed to the same person to whom the otherletter had been addressed, and which was intended in like mannerto be shown to the King, as the King's letter was to him. Uponhearing what had passed, however, down came Lord Granville andMr. Ellis in a great hurry, and used every argument to dissuade himfrom sending the letter, urging that he had entirely misunderstoodthe purport of the letter which had offended him; that it wasintended as an invitation to reconciliation, and contained nothingwhich could have been meant as offensive; that the country wouldbe so dissatisfied (which ardently desired and expected that heshould come into office) if he rejected this overture that hewould not be justified in refusing his services to the public, whoso anxiously wished for them. These arguments, vehemently urgedand put in every possible shape, prevailed, and the angry replywas put in the fire, and another written full of gratitude, duty, and acquiescence. 

 [12] [The Marquis of Titchfield, eldest son of the fourth Duke of Portland, Mr. Greville's first cousin, died in the twenty-eighth year of his age. ]

 [13] [The exact words in the King's letter to Lord Liverpool are 'extend his grace and favour to a subject who may have incurred his displeasure. ' This letter, Lord Liverpool's letter transmitting it to Mr. Canning, and Mr. Canning's answer to Lord Liverpool are now all published in Mr. Yonge's 'Life and Administration of Lord Liverpool, ' vol. Iii. P. 200. ]

[Page Head: LORD WILLIAM BENTINCK. ]

London, November 24th, 1822 {p. 059}

The morning I left Welbeck I had a long conversation withTitchfield upon various matters connected with politics and hisfamily, particularly relating to Lord William's correspondencewith Lord Liverpool about the Government of India. He showed methis correspondence, in which, as I anticipated, Lord William hadthe worst of it. Lord Liverpool's answer was unanswerable. Heshowed me also a very long letter which he had received from LordWilliam, together with the copies of the correspondence, whichwas written the evening before he went abroad. In this letter(which I only read once, and which was so long that I cannotrecollect it) he gave a detailed account of his sentiments uponthe Indian matter, with the reasons for his having acted as hedid, also his feelings with regard to the manner in which Canninghad behaved upon the occasion and a conversation which he hadwith Mrs. Canning. [14] This latter I think exceedingly curious, because it serves to show what the object and the pretensions ofCanning are in taking office, and exhibit that ambition the wholeextent of which he dares not show. It seems that the Directorswere anxious that Lord William should be appointed Governor-General, and this he knew through friends of his in the Court. Government, however, having signified their dissent to his nomination, LordAmherst was nominated by the Court and accepted. Lord William'sdispleasure with Canning arises from an idea that Canning wasbackward in supporting his interests in this matter, and that hekept aloof from Lord William, and acquiesced in his rejectionwithout ever communicating with him on the subject. Had Canningstated to him the difficulties under which he laboured, from hisanxiety to serve him on the one hand and his obligation ofcoinciding with his colleagues on the other, Lord William wouldnot have hesitated to _desire_ him to abandon his interestsrather than involve himself in any embarrassment on his account. He wrote to Lord Liverpool to complain that the Court ofDirectors being inclined to nominate him, Lord L. Had interposedhis influence to prevent that nomination; that he did not askLord L. To consent to his appointment, but he did ask him not tointerpose his influence to prevent his nomination, because thatnomination was essential to his character, as proving that theCourt of Directors were satisfied of the injustice with which hehad been treated in the affair of the Vellore mutiny. LordLiverpool's answer was short and civil, assuring him that he hadneither directly nor indirectly exerted any influence at all, maintaining his right to give his opinion to the Directors incase it had been asked, and stating that Lord Amherst had beenproposed by the Court and accepted by Government. [15] Whilstthis matter was still pending, and before Lord Amherst'sappointment had been made known, Lord William went to GloucesterLodge. He saw Mrs. Canning, and being anxious to acquireinformation concerning the Indian appointment, he told her thatshe had an opportunity of obliging him by telling him anythingshe knew concerning it. She answered very quickly and in a verybad humour, 'Oh, it is all settled; Lord Amherst is appointed. 'She then put into his hand a letter which Canning had receivedthat morning from the Duke of Portland, declining his offer ofthe Private Secretaryship for John and George, alleging as areason the hostile politics of Lord William and Titchfield. Mrs. Canning said that she had no idea that they would not havesupported Canning, that she was aware they differed on somematters of minor importance, but that she had imagined theirgeneral opinions to be similar; that she had conceived LordWilliam's opposition to have been directed against LordLondonderry, and that it would have ceased with his death; that'the present must be considered as a new Administration, and thatCanning must be virtually Minister of the country. ' Lord Williamreplied that he could not view it in that light, that he thoughtit likely the introduction of Canning into the Cabinet mighteffect a beneficial influence on the measures of Government, andmore particularly that a system of foreign policy might beadopted more congenial to his sentiments upon that subject; thatit would give him the greatest pleasure to see such a change ofmeasures as would enable him to give his support to a Governmentof which Canning was so conspicuous a member, but that he couldnot think that to be a new Administration which was composed(with the sole exception of Canning) of precisely the samepersons of which it consisted before he joined them. 

 [14] [Mrs. Canning was the younger sister of Henrietta, wife of the fourth Duke of Portland, both of them being the daughters and coheiresses of Major-General John Scott of Balcomie. Lord William Bentinck, the Duke's brother, was therefore a near connection, and Lord George Bentinck and Lord John Bentinck, the Duke's sons, were by their mother's side Mrs. Canning's nephews. Lady Charlotte Greville, Mr. Charles Greville's mother, was of course connected with Mrs. Canning in the same degree as her brother Lord William Bentinck. ]

 [15] [Lord Liverpool's letter to the King on this appointment has been published by Mr. Yonge in his Life of that statesman. He stated strongly to George IV. His opinion that although Lord William Bentinck was supported by a powerful party in the Court of Directors, he thought it would be 'humiliating to the Government and productive of the very worst effects to appoint to such a station a man who had taken so strong a part in Parliamentary Opposition. ' George IV. Replied that he thought it 'highly unadvisable that Lord William Bentinck should be the successor of the Marquis of Hastings. ' (Yonge's 'Life of Lord Liverpool, ' vol. Iii. P. 204. ) Lord William Bentinck had previously been Governor of Madras at the time of the mutiny at Vellore. ]

George, [16] after having refused the Private Secretaryship, wastalked over by Canning and accepted it. He tried to gain overJohn, but he refused to share it. 

 [16] [Lord George Bentinck, third son of the fourth Duke of Portland; born 1802, died 1848; afterwards distinguished as the leader of the Protectionist party. ]

Canning wished that Manners Sutton should be appointedGovernor-General, in order that Wynn might be made Speaker, androom made for Huskisson in the Cabinet; but Wynn would not havegiven up his situation, and it is very much suspected that if hehad, the strength of Government would have been insufficient toprocure his election as Speaker, so unpopular is he in the House. 

December 24th, 1822 {p. 062}

The other day I went to Bushy with the Duke [of York], and as wepassed over Wimbledon Common he showed me the spot where hefought his duel with the Duke of Richmond. He then told me thewhole story and all the circumstances which led to it, most ofwhich are in print. That which I had never heard before was thatat a masquerade three masks insulted the Prince of Wales, whenthe Duke interfered, desired the one who was most prominent toaddress himself to him, and added that he suspected him to be anofficer in his regiment (meaning Colonel Lennox), and if he washe was a coward and a disgrace to his profession; if he was notthe person he took him for, he desired him to unmask, and hewould beg his pardon. The three masks were supposed to be ColonelLennox, the Duke of Gordon, and Lady Charlotte. This did not leadto any immediate consequences, but perhaps indirectly contributedto what followed. The Duke never found out whether the masks werethe people he suspected. 

[Page Head: DUKE OF YORK'S DISLIKE TO WELLINGTON. ]

The last time I was with him he told me a variety of particularsabout the Duke of Wellington's conduct at the siege of Seringapatam, of Lord Harris's reluctance to entrust the command of a stormingparty to him, of his not arriving at the place of rendezvous thefirst night, of Lord Harris's anger and the difficulty withwhich he was brought to consent to his being employed the secondnight, when he distinguished himself so signally. Amongst variousother matters, of which it was impossible to bring away a perfectrecollection, from his confused manner of narrating, andparticularly his inaccuracy as to dates, he told me (with manyrecommendations to secrecy) that which immediately explained tome the dislike which he certainly bears to the Duke and (which Idid not know before) to Lord Londonderry. He said that after theretreat of our army under Sir J. Moore from Spain (he was notquite certain himself as to the exact period, though a referenceto the history of that period will probably elucidate the matter)Lord L. Sent for him, and communicated to him that it was theintention of Government to send out an expedition to Portugal, and to confer the command of it upon him. He replied that ifcalled upon he should consider it his duty to serve, but heshould never solicit any command. Nothing more passed at thattime, but the newspapers by some means immediately got hold ofthis project and violently attacked the Government for thinkingof sending him out. He does not appear to have known whatintermediate deliberation led to a change in the determination ofthe Ministers in regard to himself. He says that Lord Chatham, who was much attached to him, and was then a Cabinet Minister, came to him one day, and told him he was betrayed, and that hewas sacrificed to make way for Sir A. Wellesley; that soon afterthis Lord L. Sent for him, and said that he was extremely sorrythat public opinion was so strongly against his appointment tothe command of the army that it was impossible for Government toconfer it upon him. Soon after this the expedition was formed, and Sir A. Wellesley was appointed to the command. This was theDuke's own version of the transaction. 

 1823. 

[Page Head: GEORGE THE THIRD'S WILL. ]

Some particulars concerning the late King's will were told me bythe Duke of York as we were going to Oatlands to shoot onWednesday, the 8th of January, 1823. The King was empowered byAct of Parliament to make a will about the year 1766. In 1770 hemade a will, by which he left all he had to the Queen for herlife, Buckingham House to the Duke of Clarence, some property tothe Duke of Kent, and to the Duke of York his second best Georgeand some other trifling remembrance. He considered the Duke ofYork provided for by the Bishopric of Osnaburgh. Of this willthree copies were made; one was deposited in the German_chancellerie_ in England, one in Hanover, and the other it wasbelieved the King kept himself. He afterwards resolved to cancelthis will, and two of the copies of it were destroyed, the thirdstill existing (I could not make out by what means--if he told meI have forgotten--or which copy it was that survived). In 1810the King made another will, but for various reasons he always putoff signing it, once or twice because he wished to makealterations in it; at length he appointed a day to sign it, butwhen the Chancellor brought it one of the witnesses was absent, and the signature was again postponed. Other days were afterwardsfixed for this purpose, but before the signature was affixed theKing was taken ill, and consequently the will never was signed. After the death of the King the only good will, therefore, washis original will of 1770, which was produced and read in thepresence of the King, the Chancellor, Vice-Chancellor, LordLiverpool, the Duke of York, Adair, the King's solicitor (Spyerhis name), and one or two others whom he mentioned. BuckinghamHouse, which had been left to the Duke of Clarence, had beentwice sold; the Queen and the Duke of Kent were dead; theonly legatee, therefore, was the Duke of York. Now arose adifficulty--whether the property of the late King demised to theKing or to the Crown. The Chancellor said that the only personwho had anything to say to the will was the Duke of York; butthe Duke and the King differed with regard to the right ofinheritance, and the Duke, wishing to avoid any dispute ordiscussion on the subject, begged to wash his hands of the wholematter. The King conceives that the whole of the late King'sproperty devolves upon him personally, and not upon the Crown, and he has consequently appropriated to himself the whole of themoney and jewels. The money did not amount to more than £120, 000. So touchy is he about pecuniary matters that his Ministers havenever dared to remonstrate with him, nor to tell him that he hasno right so to act. The consequence is that he has spent themoney, and has taken to himself the jewels as his own privateproperty. The Duke thinks that he has no right thus to appropriatetheir father's property, but that it belongs to the Crown. TheKing has acted in a like manner with regard to the Queen's[Charlotte's] jewels. She possessed a great quantity, some ofwhich had been given her by the late King on her marriage, andthe rest she had received in presents at different times. Thosewhich the late King had given her she conceived to belong to theCrown, and left them back to the present King; the rest she leftto her daughters. The King has also appropriated the Queen's[Caroline's] jewels to himself, and conceives that they are hisundoubted private property. The Duke thinks that the Ministersought to have taken the opportunity of the coronation, when a newcrown was to be provided, to state to him the truth with regardto the jewels, and to suggest that they should be converted tothat purpose. This, however, they dared not do, and so the matterremains. The King had even a design of selling the librarycollected by the late King, but this he was obliged to abandon, for the Ministers and the Royal Family must have interfered tooppose so scandalous a transaction. It was therefore presented tothe British Museum. 

[Page Head: THE CONGRESS OF VERONA. ]

January 25th, 1823 {p. 065}

I came from Gorhambury with the Duke of Wellington lastWednesday, and he was very communicative. He gave me a detailedhistory of the late Congress, and told me many other things whichI should be glad to recollect. 

After the two treaties of Paris and Vienna the Allied Powersagreed to meet in Congress from time to time to arrange togetherany matters of general interest which might arise, and to settleand discuss any differences which might occur between any twoPowers, a rule being laid down that the affairs of no Powershould be discussed without that Power being invited to thedeliberation. The affairs of Naples were the first that attractedtheir attention. Austria complained that the ramifications of thesecret political societies which had sprung up at Naples tendedto disturb and revolutionise the Italian possessions, anddemanded the consent of the Allied Powers that she should abatethe nuisance. The cause was deemed sufficient to justify herinterference, and the events followed which are known. TheCongress at Verona was assembled for the purpose of taking intoconsideration the affairs of Italy, and for discussing thepropriety of relieving Naples from the burden of that militaryforce which had been maintained there for the purpose ofextinguishing the revolutionary spirit. At this Congress Francecame forward and complained that the revolution which had takenplace in Spain menaced her internal tranquillity, and demandedthe advice of Congress as to the measures she should adopt. Inthis it will be observed that the rule of every Power beingcalled upon to attend a deliberation in which its affairs were tobe discussed was dispensed with. Austria, Russia, and Prussiaimmediately replied that if she considered the Spanish revolutionto be dangerous to her repose, she would be justified in stiflingthat revolution by force of arms, and offered to co-operate withher in the attempt. England refused to give any answer to thedemands of France, and demanded in return what was her caseagainst Spain. To this no answer was given. The part then takenby the Duke was to deprecate hostilities, both publicly asPlenipotentiary of England and privately in the variousconversations which he had with the Emperor of Russia, who seemsto have been the strongest advocate for making war with Spain. The imprudence of the Spaniards has afforded some colour to theright assumed by their enemies of interfering with their affairs, for they have upon several occasions attempted to foment thetroubles which either existed or threatened to appear both inNaples and Piedmont; and the Emperor of Russia told the Duke thathe had detected the Spanish Minister at St. Petersburg in anattempt to corrupt his soldiers at the time of the mutiny of theGuards, and that he had consequently sent him out of the country. The Duke replied that if the Emperor of Russia had reasonablegrounds of complaint against Spain, he would be fully justifiedin declaring war against her, and that he would advise him to doso if he could march 150, 000 men into Spain; but in sufferingthree years to elapse without making any complaint he hadvirtually renounced his right to complain, and that it was unfairto rake up a forgotten grievance against Spain at a time when shewas menaced by another Power upon other grounds. The Dukesaid that the Emperor of Russia once talked to him of thepracticability of marching an army into Spain, and seemed tothink he might do so. The Duke said that the French Governmentwould never allow it, when he said he could send them by sea. TheDuke told him it would take 2, 000 ships. One of the arguments ofthe Emperor of Russia was this: that constituted as theirGovernments were (military Governments) it was impossible forthem to tolerate consistently with their own security anyrevolution which originated in military insubordination. 

[Page Head: DUKE OF WELLINGTON ON FRENCH INTERVENTION. ]

After the Congress the Duke returned to Paris, and found that notonly Monsieur de Villèle was averse to war, but that the King, Monsieur, and the Duke and Duchess of Angoulême were equallydisinclined to commence hostilities. His endeavours have beenincessantly directed to confirm their pacific dispositions, andto induce the Spanish Government to display moderation in theirlanguage and conduct. I asked him if such were the sentiments ofthe ruling powers in France upon what the question now turned, and why all idea of war was not abandoned, since both partieswere pacifically inclined. He said[17] that France had been ledinto a dilemma by a series of erroneous measures, that hers was afalse position, that having made the demands she had done to theAllied Powers, having held such lofty language, and having madesuch a show of military preparation, her difficulty was how toretract and retrace her steps with honour and credit to herself;that she was a nation whose character depended in great measureupon her military renown, and that it would reflect disgrace uponher to have made such mighty preparations and assumed soperemptory a tone without performing any action commensurate withthe expectations she had raised. He said that appearancescertainly became more warlike, but that he still hoped peacewould be maintained; that if war ensued it would be entered intocontrary to the interests and inclinations of all the partiesconcerned, and that it would have been brought about by asuccession of circumstances over which they had no control; thatit was impossible for two armies to remain for a length of timeso near each other without mutual incursions being made, insultsand injuries exchanged, which must inevitably end in a state ofwarfare and hostility; that the recall of the French Ministerfrom Madrid would contribute to this result, for both in theCortes and the Andalusian Junta expressions would be utteredoffensive to the French Government, and misrepresentations wouldbe made which would have the effect of exasperating the partiesand of widening the breach; and that there being no agent ofFrance at Madrid to furnish explanations and destroy theeffect of the misrepresentations, there would be a constantcorrespondence between Madrid and Paris, in which vent would begiven to all the angry feelings that ever existed. [18] The Dukeadvised that no answer should be given to the notes of the threePowers, nor to that of the French Minister. Had the SpanishGovernment declined to take notice of the notes, they would haveimposed upon them the difficulty of taking the next steps. However, he admitted that the answer to the French note was verymoderate. There is no statesman in Spain. There are some eloquentmen in the Cortes, particularly Torreno and Arguelles. Torreno isthe ablest man, but he has injured his character by peculation. The state of Spain is such that the most violent and turbulentpossess the greatest share of influence. Portugal is in a stateof greater intellectual improvement, and amongst the Portuguesethere are some men of ability--Palmella, and another whose name Ihave forgotten. But Spain is not only deficient in men ofeducation and talent to direct her councils, but she has no army, and not one officer of capacity. Not one was formed by the latewar, for such were their vanity and ignorance that they wouldlearn nothing from the English. 

 [17] All this reasoning appears to me exceedingly false, and I do not understand a Government being compelled to adopt measures adverse to her inclinations and injurious to her interests by circumstances which she could not control. A wise and vigorous statesman would break through such a web as that in which the French politics are entangled, and I cannot comprehend how the honour of a nation is to be supported by an obstinate adherence to measures which she had been led incautiously to adopt, and which were afterwards found to militate with her true interests. If the councils of France were directed by a Minister of a vigorous and independent character--if such a Minister were to come forward and state frankly to Spain, and announce to all Europe, that he would not invade the liberty and the rights of Spain, and instantly put a stop to all hostile preparations, finding arguments for an act of magnanimity, moderation, and justice, which are never wanting when some deed of lawless ambition and violent aggression is to be perpetrated, would not such a man acquire a more solid reputation than he who sacrifices to some punctilio the interests of his own country and the happiness and repose of millions, how great soever might be the success with which his efforts should be crowned?--[C. C. G. ]

 [18] These notes were addressed by the respective Courts to their own Ministers at Madrid. The Spanish Minister for Foreign Affairs need not have taken any notice of them whatever according to the forms of diplomatic communication. --[C. C. G. ]

Upon one occasion only the Spaniards gained a victory, the day onwhich St. Sebastian was stormed. Soult attacked a Spanish corpscommanded by General Freyre. When the Duke was informed of theattack he hastened to the scene of action and placed two Britishdivisions in reserve, to support the Spaniards, but did not allowthem to come into action. He found the Spaniards running away asfast as they could. He asked them where they were going. Theysaid they were taking off the wounded. He immediately sent andordered the gates of Irun, to which they were flying, to be shutagainst them, and sent to Freyre to desire he would rally hismen. This was done, and they sustained the attack of the French;but General Freyre sent to the Duke to beg he would let hisdivisions support him, as he could not maintain himself muchlonger. The Duke said to Freyre's aide-de-camp, 'If I let asingle man fire, the English will swear they gained the victory, and he had much better do it all himself; besides, look throughmy glass, and you will see the French are retreating. ' This wasthe case, for a violent storm of rain had occurred, and theFrench, who had crossed a river, finding that it began to swell, and that their bridges were in danger of being carried away, hadbegun to retreat. The Spaniards maintained their position, butthe Duke said he believed they owed it to the storm more than totheir own resolution. 

The Duke wrote to Alava some time ago (three years, I think) anddesired him to advise the King from him, now that he had acceptedthe Constitution, to throw himself upon his Ministers. He has notwritten to Alava, nor Alava to him, for three years, because heknows that all letters are opened and read. He says the King ofSpain is not clever, but cunning; his manners are good. He is incorrespondence with the Allied Sovereigns, and is playing false. He has the means of corresponding, because, although hishousehold is composed of men friendly to the revolution, there isno restraint upon his person, and he sees whomsoever he pleases. In case of war the French would obtain complete success. Heconceives their object would be to obtain possession of theperson of the King, to overthrow the Constitution, establish theKing upon the throne with a Constitution perhaps similar to theFrench Charte, and to establish an army of occupation to maintainsuch an order of things till he should be able to form an army ofhis own. 

[Page Head: DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S RECOLLECTIONS. ]

The Duke saw the King of France twice while he was in Paris. Hewas much broken, but talked of living twelve or fourteen years. The second time he was in better health and spirits than thefirst time. Madame du Cayla sent to the Duke to ask him to callupon her; he went twice and she was not at home. At his levee theKing said, 'Il y a une personne qui regrette beaucoup de n'avoirpas eu le plaisir de vous voir. ' The courtiers told him the Kingmeant Madame du C. He went the same evening and saw her. She is afine woman, about forty, and agreeable. She sees the King everyWednesday; he writes notes and verses to her, and he has givenher a great deal of money. He has built a house for her, andgiven her a _terre_ near St. Denis which is valued at 1, 500, 000francs. The King likes M. De Villèle[19] exceedingly. He hasoccasionally talked to the Duke of Bonaparte. One day, when theywere standing together at the window which looks upon the gardenof the Tuileries, he said, 'One day Bonaparte was standing herewith ----, and he said, pointing to the Chamber of Deputies, "Vous voyez ce bâtiment là: si je les démuselais, je seraisdétrôné. " I said, "The King has given them freedom of debate, andI think I go on very well with it. "'

 [19] Villèle was a lieutenant in the navy, and afterwards went to the Isle of France, where he was a member of the council (or whatever the legislation was called). At the revolution he returned to France and lived with his family near Toulouse, became a member of the departmental body, and subsequently Mayor of Toulouse; he was afterwards elected a Member of the Chamber, when he distinguished himself by his talents for debate, and became one of the chiefs of the Ultra party. He was a member of the Duc de Richelieu's Government, which he soon quitted, and was one of the principal instruments in overturning it. He anticipates a long administration. --[C. C. G. ]

The Duke said he had been struck down by a musket shot whilstreconnoitring the enemy as they were retreating in the Pyrenees. The people round him thought he was killed, but he got updirectly. Alava was wounded a few minutes before him, and MajorBrooke nearly at the same time. He is of opinion that Massena wasthe best French general to whom he was ever opposed. 

He said that Bonaparte had not the patience requisite fordefensive operations. His last campaign (before the capture ofParis) was very brilliant, probably the ablest of all hisperformances. The Duke is of opinion that if he had possessedgreater patience he would have succeeded in compelling the Alliesto retreat; but they had adopted so judicious a system of defencethat he was foiled in the impetuous attacks he made upon them, and after a partial failure which he met with, when he attackedBlücher at Laon and Craon, he got tired of pursuing a coursewhich afforded no great results, and leaving a strong body underMarmont to watch Blücher, he threw himself into the rear of theGrand Army. The march upon Paris entirely disconcerted him andfinished the war. The Allies could not have maintained themselvesmuch longer, and had he continued to keep his force concentrated, and to carry it as occasion required against one or other of thetwo armies, the Duke thinks he must eventually have forced themto retreat, and that their retreat would have been a difficultoperation. The British army could not have reached the scene ofoperations for two months. The Allies did not dare attackNapoleon; if he had himself come up he should certainly haveattacked him, for his army was the best that ever existed. 

The Duke added that he traced back the present politics of Franceto their chagrin at the dissolution of the Family Compact. At thegeneral pacification the Duke, on the part of the EnglishGovernment, insisted upon that treaty not being renewed, and madea journey to Madrid for the purpose of determining the SpanishGovernment. Talleyrand and the King of France made great effortsto induce the Duke to desist from his opposition to the renewalof the treaty, and both were exceedingly mortified at beingunable to shake the determination of our Government on thispoint. 

The Duke of Wellington told me that Knighton[20] managed theKing's affairs very well, that he was getting him out of debtvery quickly, and that the Ministers were well satisfied withhim. When he was appointed to the situation he now holds, hecalled at Apsley House to announce it to the Duke, and expressedhis hopes that the appointment would not displease him. The Dukesaid that he could have no objection, but he would give him apiece of advice he trusted he would take in good part: this was, that he would confine himself to the discharge of the functionsbelonging to his own situation, and that he would not in any wayinterfere with the Government; that as long as he should soconduct himself he would go on very well, but that if ever heshould meddle with the concerns of the Ministers he would givethem such offence that they would not suffer him to remain in asituation which he should thus abuse. Knighton thanked him verymuch for his advice, and promised to conform himself to it. Itseems that he told this to the King, for the next time the Dukesaw him the King said he had heard the advice which he had givento 'a person, ' and that he might depend upon that person'sfollowing it entirely. 

 [20] [Sir William Knighton, who was originally the King's physician, had been appointed Keeper of the King's Privy Seal and Receiver of the Duchies of Lancaster and Cornwall; but in fact he acted as the King's Private Secretary, and it was to the duties of that delicate office that the Duke's advice applied. ]

[Page Head: DUKE OF YORK'S ANECDOTES OF GEORGE IV. ]

November 29th, 1823 {p. 073}

In the various conversations which I have with the Duke of Yorkhe continually tells me a variety of facts more or less curious, sometimes relating to politics, but more frequently concerningthe affairs of the Royal Family, that I have neglected to notedown at the time, and I generally forget them afterwards. I mustacknowledge, however, that they do not interest me so much asthey would many other people. I have not much taste for Courtgossip. Another reason, too, is the difficulty of making a clearnarrative out of his confused communications. The principalanecdotes he has told me have been, as well as I recollect, relative to the Duchess of Gloucester's marriage, to the Duke ofCumberland's marriage and all the dissensions to which that eventgave rise in the Royal Family, the differences between the Kingand Prince Leopold, and other trifling matters which I haveforgotten. In all of these histories the King acted a part, inwhich his bad temper, bad judgment, falseness, and duplicity wereequally conspicuous. I think it is not possible for any man tohave a worse opinion of another than the Duke has of the King. From various instances of eccentricities I am persuaded that theKing is subject to occasional impressions which produce effectslike insanity; that if they continue to increase he will end bybeing decidedly mad. The last thing which I have heard was atEuston the other day. I went into the Duke's room, and found himwriting; he got up and told me that he was thrown into a greatdilemma by the conduct of the King, who had behaved extremely illto him. The matter which I could collect was this:--Upon thedisturbances breaking out in the West Indies it became necessaryto send off some troops as quickly as possible. In order to makethe necessary arrangements without delay, the Duke made variousdispositions, a part of which consisted in the removal of theregiment on guard at Windsor and the substitution of another inits place. Orders were expedited to carry this arrangement intoeffect, and at the same time he communicated to the King what hehad done and desired his sanction to the arrangement. The Duke'sorders were already in operation, when he received a letter fromthe King to say that he liked the regiment which was at Windsor, and that it should not move; and in consequence of this fancy thewhole business was at a standstill. Thus he thought proper totrifle with the interests of the country to gratify his ownchildish caprice. He gave, too, great offence to the Duke, inhindering his dispositions from being carried into effect, at thesame time. 

The Duke told me another thing which he thought was indirectlyconnected with the first. It seems one of the people about theCourt had ordered some furniture to be removed from CumberlandLodge to Windsor (something for the Chapel). Stephenson, as headof the Board of Works, on being informed this was done, wrote tothe man to know by what orders he had done it. The man showed theletter to the King, who was exceedingly incensed, and wrote toLord Liverpool to say that Stephenson's letter was insulting tohim, and desired he might be turned out. After some correspondenceon the subject Lord Liverpool persuaded the King to reinstate him;but he was obliged to make all sorts of apologies and excuses forhaving done what it was his duty to do. Stephenson is a friendand servant of the Duke's, and in his ill-humour he tried torevenge himself upon the Duke as well as on Stephenson, and hethwarted the Duke in his military arrangements. What made hisconduct the less excusable was that it was important that thesethings should be done quickly, and as the Duke was out of town acorrespondence became necessary, by which great delay would becaused. 

 1824. 

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF LORD TITCHFIELD. ]

March 6th, 1824 {p. 075}

Poor Titchfield[21] died last night at eight o'clock, havinglingered for some days in a state which gave to his familyalternate hopes and fears. He was better till yesterdayafternoon, when he was removed into another room; soon after thishe grew weaker, and at eight o'clock he expired. He is a greatloss to his family, of which he was by much the cleverest member, and he was well calculated to fill the situation in which fortunehad placed him. His talents were certainly of a superiordescription, but their efficacy was counteracted by theeccentricity of his habits, the indolence of his mind, and hisvacillating and uncertain disposition. He was, however, occasionally capable of intense application, and competent tomake himself master of any subject he thought fit to grapplewith; his mind was reflecting, combining, and argumentative, buthe had no imagination, and to passion, 'the sanguine credulity ofyouth, and the fervent glow of enthusiasm' he was an entirestranger. He never had any taste for society, and attachedhimself early to politics. He started in life with an enthusiasticadmiration for Mr. Canning, but after two or three years, beingthrown into the society of many of his political opponents, hebegan to entertain opinions very different from those of Mr. Canning. He never, however, enlisted under any political banner, and his great object seemed to be to prove to the world that hebelonged to no party. After Mr. Canning came into office he tookthe earliest opportunity of informing his constituents that hewas unfettered by any political connection with him. Titchfieldwas never at a public school, but was educated at home. Such aneducation--the most injudicious which can be given to a young mandestined to fill a great situation--was not without its effectupon his mind. The superior indulgences and the early habits ofauthority and power in which he was brought up, without receivingcorrection from any of those levelling circumstances which areincidental to public schools, threw a shade of selfishness andreserve over his character, which time, the commerce of theworld, and a naturally kind disposition had latterly done much tocorrect. The subject to which he had principally devoted hisattention was political economy, and in the discussions in theHouse of Commons upon currency he had particularly distinguishedhimself. Whatever he attempted he had done so well that greatexpectations were entertained of his future success, and theindications he had given of talent will ensure to his memory alasting reputation. He has died at a moment the most fortunate, perhaps, for his fame as a public man; but his loss to his familyis very great, and by them will be long felt and deeply lamented. 

 [21] [William Henry, Marquis of Titchfield, eldest son of the fourth Duke of Portland. ]

[An interval of two years occurs in the Journal, during which Mr. Greville wrote nothing. ]

 CHAPTER III. 

The Panic of 1825--Death of Emperor Alexander--The Duke of Wellington's Embassy to St. Petersburg--Robinson Chancellor of the Exchequer--Small Notes Bill--Death of Arthur de Ros-- George III. And Lord Bute--Illness and Death of the Duke of York--His Funeral--Lord Liverpool struck with Paralysis-- Rundell's Fortune and Will--Copley and Philpots--The Cottage-- Formation of Mr. Canning's Administration--Secession of the Tories--The Whigs join him--Dinner at the Royal Lodge-- Difficulties of Canning's Government--Duke of Wellington visits the King--Canning's Death--Anecdotes of Mr. Canning-- Recognition of South American States--His Industry--The Duke of Wellington on Canning--Lord Goderich's Administration formed-- The Difficulty about Herries--Position of the Whigs--The King's letter to Herries--Peel and George IV. --Interview of Lord Lansdowne with the King--Weakness of the Government--First Resignation of Lord Goderich--Lord Harrowby declines the Premiership--Lord Goderich returns--Brougham and Rogers-- Conversation and Character of Brougham--Lord Goderich's Ministry dissolved--Cause of its Dissolution--Hostility of Herries--Position of Huskisson and his Friends--Herries and Huskisson both join the New Cabinet. 

 1826. 

[Page Head: FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES. ]

February 12th, 1826 {p. 077}

The last three months have been remarkable for the panic in themoney market, which lasted for a week or ten days--that is, wasat its height for that time. The causes of it had been brewingfor some months before, and he must be a sanguine and sagaciouspolitician who shall predict the termination of its effects. There is now no panic, but the greatest alarm, and every prospectof great distress, and long continuation of it. The state of theCity, and the terror of all the bankers and merchants, as well asof all owners of property, is not to be conceived but by thosewho witnessed it. This critical period drew forth many examplesof great and confiding liberality, as well as some of a veryopposite character. Men of great wealth and parsimonious habitscame and placed their whole fortunes at the disposal of theirbankers in order to support their credit. For many days the evilcontinued to augment so rapidly, and the demands upon the Bankwere so great and increasing; that a Bank restriction wasexpected by everyone. So determined, however, were Ministersagainst this measure, that rather than yield to it they sufferedthe Bank to run the greatest risk of stopping; for on the eveningof the day on which the alarm was at its worst there were only8, 000 sovereigns left in the till. [1] The next day gold waspoured in, and from that time things got better. 

 [1] [Mr. Baring (Lord Ashburton) stated in his pamphlet on this crisis, 'The gold of the Bank was drained to within a very few thousand pounds, for although the public returns showed a result rather less scandalous, a certain Saturday night closed with nothing worth mentioning. It was then that the Bank applied to Lord Liverpool for an Order in Council to suspend cash payment. A conference took place between Lord Liverpool, Mr. Huskisson, the governor of the Bank, and Mr. Baring. The suspension of cash payments was happily averted, chiefly as it was said by the accidental discovery of a box of one-pound Bank of England notes, to the amount of a million and a half, which had never been issued, and which the public were content to receive. ' Mr. Tooke, however, states in his 'History of Prices' (Continuation, vol. Iv. P. 342) that the lowest amount of the banking treasure was on the 24th of December, 1825: Coin, £426, 000; bullion, £601, 000: in all, £1, 027, 000. The passage in the text refers of course to the banking department only. ]

In the midst of all this the Emperor Alexander died, and after ashort period of doubt concerning his successor it was found thatNicholas was to mount the throne. The first act of the RussianGovernment was to communicate to ours their resolution no longerto delay a recognition of the independence of Greece, and theirdetermination to support that measure if necessary by force ofarms. They invited us to co-operate in this object, but intimatedthat if we were not disposed to join them they should undertakeit alone. The Duke of Wellington is gone to Russia, ostensibly tocompliment the new Emperor, but really to concert measures withthe Russian Ministry for carrying this measure into effect; andit is remarkable that the Duke, upon taking leave of his friendsand family to set out on this journey, was deeply affected, as ifhe had some presentiment that he should never return. Alava toldme that he had frequently taken leave of him, when both expectedthat they should never meet again, yet neither upon that occasionnor upon any other in the course of the seventeen years that hehas known him did he ever see him so moved. Lady Burghersh saidthat when he took leave of her the tears ran down his cheeks; hewas also deeply affected when he parted from his mother. 

In the discussion which took place on Friday night in the Houseof Commons, when the Chancellor of the Exchequer[2] opened hisfinancial plan, he is deemed to have made a very bad speech, andHuskisson a very good one. Robinson is probably unequal to thepresent difficult conjuncture; a fair and candid man, and anexcellent Minister in days of calm and sunshine, but not endowedwith either capacity or experience for these stormy times, besides being disqualified for vigorous measures by theremissness and timidity of his character. However, though it isthe peculiar province of the Finance Minister to find a remedyfor these disorders, he may well be excused for not doing thatwhich the united wisdom of the country seems unequal toaccomplish. All men agree as to the existence of the evil, andall differ as to the causes of it and the measures which willeffect its removal; not one man seems to see his way clearlythrough the difficulty; however, 'time and the hour runs throughthe roughest day, ' and probably the country will what is calledright itself, and then great credit will be given to somebody orother who deserves none. 

 [2] [Right Hon. Frederick John Robinson, Chancellor of the Exchequer from January 1823 to April 1827; afterwards Viscount Goderich and Earl of Ripon. ]

[Page Head: MR. ROBINSON'S SMALL NOTES BILL. ]

February 20th, 1826 {p. 079}

The Small Notes Bill, [3] as it is called, lowered the funds andincreased the alarm among the monied men. Numerous were thecomplaints of the inefficacy of the measure for present relief, numerous the predictions of the ultimate impossibility ofcarrying it into effect. In the City, however, on Thursdayafternoon things began to improve; there was more confidence andcheerfulness. On Friday evening the Chancellor of the Exchequercomes down to the House and surprises everyone by abandoning onepart of his plan, and authorising the Bank to issue one poundnotes till October. The immediate cause of this alteration was acommunication which Hudson Gurney made to the Chancellor, that ifhe persisted in his Bill he should send up £500, 000 which he hadin Bank of England notes and change them for sovereigns, and thatall country bankers would follow his example. From this he foundthat it would be impossible to persist in his original plan. Thegreat evil now is a want of circulating medium, and as theimmediate effect of the measure would be another run upon theBank, and that probably all the gold drawn from it woulddisappear--for men now are anxious to hoard gold--this evil wouldbe increased tenfold. The whole country is in distress from theabsence of circulating medium for the common purposes of life; nocountry banker will issue notes, for they are instantly returnedupon his hands and exchanged for gold. The circulation of countrynotes being generally confined within a very limited extent, theholders of them can easily present them for payment. Thecirculation of a quantity of Bank of England paper will relievethe immediate distress arising from this necessity, and thedifficulty of exchanging them for gold will ensure the continuanceof their circulation. When men find that they must take notes, and that gold is not to be had without so much pain and trouble, they will be contented to take the notes to which they have beenaccustomed, and will think the paper of their own bankers asgood as that of the Bank of England, besides the advantage ofbeing less exposed to the losses arising from forgery. This isthe argument of the opponents of Robinson's Bill. It is generallythought that the Ministers have disgraced themselves by theirprecipitation and by the crudeness of their measures. Hithertothey have done nothing towards removing the present distress, orsatisfying the minds of men, but the contrary. Robinson isobviously unequal to the present crisis. His mind is notsufficiently enlarged, nor does he seem to have any distinctideas upon the subject; he is fighting in the dark. 

 [3] [On the 10th of February the Chancellor of the Exchequer moved in Committee 'That all promissory notes payable on demand issued by licensed Bankers in England or by the Bank of England for less than £5 shall not be issued or circulated beyond the 5th of April next. ' Mr. Huskisson made an able speech in support of the proposal, showing that the inflation produced by the small note paper currency had greatly contributed to cause and aggravate the panic ('Huskisson's Speeches, ' vol. Ii. P. 444). Mr. Baring, afterwards Lord Ashburton, opposed the restriction of small notes, but with small success. The period allowed for the contraction of their circulation was, however, extended to the 10th of October. ]

Everybody knows that Huskisson is the real author of the financemeasure of Government, and there can be no greater anomaly thanthat of a Chancellor of the Exchequer who is obliged to proposeand defend measures of which another Minister is the real thoughnot the apparent author. The funds rose nearly two per cent, uponthis alteration in the Bill before the House, on account of theprospect of an abundance of money. Still it is thought thatnothing will be sufficient to relieve the present distress but anissue of Exchequer bills. So great and absorbing is the interestwhich the present discussions excite that all men are becomepolitical economists and financiers, and everybody is obliged tohave an opinion. 

February 24th, 1826 {p. 081}

I have been since yesterday the spectator of a melancholy sceneand engaged in a sad office. Arthur de Ros, [4] who was taken illa fortnight ago, became worse on Monday night. After this time hewas scarcely ever sensible, and yesterday, at a quarter-past two, he expired. After they had given up all hopes they were inducedagain to suffer them to revive from the disappearance of the mostunfavourable symptoms; but this was only the weakness whichpreceded dissolution, and a few moments after his brother Henryhad told me that he did not despair he came and said that all wasover, and a little while after Rose announced that he had ceasedto breathe. He died tranquilly, and did not suffer at all. Inever saw such a distress. His father, mother, sisters, William, and his wife went immediately to Boyle Farm. Henry would havefollowed them, but I persuaded him to go home. He went first toMrs. ----, to whom Arthur had been attached for ten years, andafter a painful interview with her he came to his own house; hehas since been too ill to move. I have never seen grief sostrong and concentrated as his; it has exhausted his body andoverwhelmed his mind, and though I knew him to have been muchattached to his brother, I did not believe him capable offeelings so acute as those which he has evinced. William ismuch more calm and resigned, a strange, unaccountable thingconsidering the characters of the two men--the one so indifferent, and with feelings so apparently deadened to the affections ofthis world, and the other with a sensibility so morbid, and suchacute susceptibility and strong feelings, that the least thingaffects him more deeply than very serious concerns do other men. 

 [4] [Colonel the Hon. Arthur John Hill de Ros, born 1793, died February 1826. He was aide-de-camp to his Royal Highness the Duke of York. ]

Arthur was an excellent creature, and will be regretted by theDuke and deeply lamented by all who knew him intimately. Histalents were not brilliant, but he had good sound sense, and wasbesides modest, diligent, honest, and trustworthy in a highdegree. There breathed not a more honourable man, and as hisambition did not extend beyond the sphere in which fortune hadplaced him and he was contented with his destiny, but for thisillness his career might have been long and prosperous. I wentlast night to sleep at the house, that it might not appear tohave been entirely abandoned to the care of servants. The onlywish he expressed was that Francis Russell should succeed him, which I have no doubt he will do. 

February 25th, 1826 {p. 082}

Received a letter from the Duke of York (to whom I had written toannounce poor Arthur's death) expressive of the greatest regretfor his loss. 

March 2nd, 1826 {p. 082}

I am just come from poor Arthur's funeral. There were presentWilliam de Ros, the two Hills, Craufurd, Torrens, Taylor, FrancisRussell, Campbell, and B. Paget. The Duke appointed Francis hisaide-de-camp directly. 

[Page Head: ILLNESS OF THE DUKE OF YORK. ]

July 2nd, 1826 {p. 083}

Four months since I have written anything. The Duke of York hasbeen dangerously ill, and it is still doubtful whether he willrecover. I was with him at Frogmore before Ascot; we went withthe King to see Windsor Castle. His Majesty has since been verymuch annoyed about the Duke, cried a great deal when he heard howbad he was, and has been twice to see him. 

The elections have been particularly violent and the contestsvery numerous. A batch of Peers has been made; everybody criesout against Charles Ellis's peerage[5] (Lord Seaford); he has noproperty, and is of no family, and his son is already a Peer. TheKing, when these other Peers were created, asked Canning to namesomebody. He said he had nobody about whom he was interested butCharles Ellis, and the King consenting to his elevation, it wasall arranged without his knowledge. However, it is thought veryridiculous, and that he would have done much better to havedeclined it. Clanricarde, too, being made a Marquis and anEnglish Peer is thought an indirect exertion of Canning'sinfluence. 

 [5] [Charles Rose Ellis, created Baron Seaford in 1826. Lord Seaford was the father of Charles Augustus Ellis, who succeeded to the title of Lord Howard de Walden through his mother, Elizabeth Catherine Caroline Hervey, granddaughter of the fourth Earl of Bristol, who was the last Baron Howard de Walden, as heir general of Thomas, first Baron. The son of Lord Seaford had married a daughter of the fifth Duke of Portland, and was consequently a connection of Mr. Canning. ]

London, December 14th, 1826 {p. 083}

The Duke of York very ill; has been at the point of death severaltimes from his legs mortifying. Canning's speech the night beforelast was most brilliant; much more cheered by the Opposition thanby his own friends. He is thought to have been imprudent, and hegave offence to his colleagues by the concluding sentence of hisreply, when he said, '_I_ called into existence the new world toredress the balance of the old. ' The _I_ was not relished. Brougham's compliment to Canning was magnificent, and he wasloudly cheered by Peel; altogether it was a fine display. 

Yesterday the Duke [of York] told me that the late King [GeorgeIII. ] was walking with him one day at Kew, and his Majesty said, 'The world tells many lies, and here is one instance. I am saidto have held frequent communication with Lord Bute, and the lasttime I ever saw or spoke to him was in that pavilion in the year1764. ' The King went over to breakfast with his mother, thePrincess Dowager, and she took him aside and said, 'There issomebody here who wishes very much to speak to you. ' 'Who is it?''Lord Bute. ' 'Good God, mamma! how could you bring him here? Itis impossible for me to hold any communication with Lord Bute inthis manner. ' However, he did see him, when Lord Bute made aviolent attack upon him for having abandoned and neglected him. The King replied that he could not, in justice to his Ministers, hold any communication with him unknown to them, when Lord Butesaid that he would never see the King again. The King becameangry in his turn, and said, 'Then, my Lord, be it so, andremember from henceforth we never meet again. ' And from that dayhe never beheld Lord Bute or had any communication with him. 

 1827. 

[Page Head: DEATH OF THE DUKE OF YORK. ]

Friday night, January 5th, 1827, half-past one {p. 084}

I am just come from taking my last look at the poor Duke. [6] Heexpired at twenty minutes after nine. Since eleven o'clock lastnight the physicians never left his room. He never moved, andthey repeatedly thought that life was extinct, but it was nottill that hour that they found it was all over. The Duke ofSussex and Stephenson were in the next room; Taylor, Torrens andDighton, Armstrong and I were upstairs. Armstrong and I had beenthere about half an hour when they came and whispered somethingto Dighton and called out Taylor. Dighton told Torrens and theywent out; immediately after Taylor came up, and told us it wasall over and begged we would go downstairs. We went directly intothe room. The Duke was sitting exactly as at the moment he died, in his great arm-chair, dressed in his grey dressing-gown, hishead inclined against the side of the chair, his hands lyingbefore him, and looking as if he were in a deep and quiet sleep. Not a vestige of pain was perceptible on his countenance, which, except being thinner, was exactly such as I have seen it ahundred times during his life. In fact, he had not suffered atall, and had expired with all the ease and tranquillity which theserenity of his countenance betokened. Nothing about or aroundhim had the semblance of death; it was all like quiet repose, andit was not without a melancholy satisfaction we saw such evidentsigns of the tranquillity of his last moments. 

 [6] [His Royal Highness the Duke of York, second son of King George III. , died on the 5th of January, 1827. ]

In about a quarter of an hour Taylor and Halford set off toWindsor to inform the King; the Duke of Sussex went to thePrincess Sophia; letters were written to all the CabinetMinisters, to the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of London, and the Speaker of the House of Commons. Orders were given thatthe great bell of St. Paul's should toll. The servants were thenadmitted to see the Duke as he lay. Worley[7] was very muchaffected at the sight, and one woman, the wife of Kendal, criedbitterly, and I saw her stoop down and kiss his hand. The roomwas then cleared and surrendered to the Lord Chamberlain'speople. Thus did I take my last leave of the poor Duke. I havebeen the minister and associate of his pleasures and amusementsfor some years, I have lived in his intimacy and experienced hiskindness, and am glad that I was present at this last sadoccasion to pay my poor tribute of respect and attachment to hisremains. 

 [7] [Worley was the Duke's stud-groom. ]

[Page Head: ILLNESS OF THE DUKE OF YORK. ]

After the October meetings of 1825 the Duke came to town, not ingood health. At the end of November the Duchess of Rutland died, which was a great blow to him, and probably made him worse. Ashort time after her funeral he went to Belvoir, when the Duke ofRutland took him down into the vault, where he stayed an hour andreturned excessively chilled. From that moment he grew worse tillthe time of the Ascot races. We went to Frogmore two days beforethe party began, and for those two days he led a quiet life. Whenthe party was assembled he lived as he had been used to do, goingto the races, sitting at table, and playing for hours at whist. He slept wretchedly and seldom went to bed, but passed thegreater part of the night walking about the room or dozing in hischair. I used to go into his room, which was next to mine, themoment I was out of bed, and generally found him in his dressinggown, looking harassed and ill. He showed me his legs, which werealways swelled. Still he went on till the last day of the party, and when we got to town he was so ill that M'Gregor, who came tohim that night, thought him in danger. From that moment theillness was established which has ended in his death. They beganby putting him through several courses of mercury, and they senthim to the Greenwoods' villa at Brompton. Here he continued toreceive everybody who called on him, and went out in his carriageevery day. They always said that he was getting better. In Augusthe went to Brighton, and soon after his arrival his legsmortified. It was then that Taylor went down to him and told himthat he was in great and immediate danger. He received theinformation with perfect composure. The gangrene, however, wasstopped, and he came to town to the Duke of Rutland's house. Thedropsy continued to make rapid progress, and some time inSeptember he was tapped; twenty-two pints of water were drawn. From him. This operation was kept secret, for the Duke did notlike that his situation should be known. He recovered from theoperation and regained his strength; no more water formed in hisbody, but there was still water in his system, and a constantdischarge from his legs, which occasioned him great pain and madewounds which were always open and extending. These wounds againproduced gangrene, but they always contrived to stop itsprogress, and put the legs in a healing condition. As often, however, as the legs began to heal the water began to rise, andthe medicines that were given to expel the water drove it againto the legs, through which it made its way, making fresh soresand entailing fresh mortification. In this way he went on, thestrength of his constitution still supporting him, till towardsthe end of December, when the constitution could resist nolonger; his appetite totally failed, and with loss of appetitecame entire prostration of strength, and in short a completebreak-up. From that moment it was obvious that his recovery wasimpossible, but he continued to struggle till the 5th of January, although he had tasted no solid food whatever for above afortnight. At all the different periods at which his state wascritical it was always made known to him, and he received theintimation with invariable firmness and composure. He said thathe enjoyed life but was not afraid to die. But though perfectlyacquainted with his own danger he never could bear that otherpeople should be informed of it, and so far from acknowledgingit, he always told his friends that he was better, and hislanguage was invariably that of a man who did not doubt of hisrecovery. He was particularly anxious that nobody should know hehad been tapped, and it was not till many weeks after thatoperation that he talked of it one day to me. Up to the lastmoment that I saw him (the day week before he died) he told me hewas better, and he desired me to tell Montrond, who had calledupon him, that he would see him as soon as he was well enough. Heheld the same language to everybody until the day previous to hisdeath, when he sent for Taylor and Stephenson into his room. Hecould then hardly speak, but he took hold of Stephenson's hand, and looking at Taylor, said, 'I am now dying. ' He tried toarticulate something else, but he was unintelligible. About afortnight before his death, soon after his appetite began tofail, Taylor had to announce to him his danger. He received theintelligence with the same coolness he had before shown, but itwas not without difficulty that he admitted the conviction. A fewdays after he received the Sacrament, which was administered bythe Bishop of London, in the presence of Sir H. Halford, Taylor, and the Princess Sophia. He was then very weak, but calm andcollected during the ceremony. When it was over he shook handswith the men and kissed the Princess. The King saw him the nextday, but he was in a lethargic state nearly the whole time thathe was there. For many days before his death the physiciansthought that every day must close the scene, but such was thenatural strength of his constitution that he evinced a tenacityof life and maintained a struggle which astonished them all, andof which they unanimously declared that their practice had neverfurnished them with a similar instance. It seems that three yearsago, when he was very unwell, M'Gregor told him that unless hewas more prudent he would certainly be afflicted with dropsy. Hehad been subject to spasms, and in consequence of them was averseto lie down in bed, and to this pernicious habit and that ofsitting for many hours together at table, or at cards, theyattribute the origin, of the complaint which has terminated sofatally. Had he been a more docile patient, from the amazingvigour of his constitution he might have looked forward to a verylong life. His sufferings in the course of his illness have beenvery great, and almost without cessation. Nothing could exceedthe patience and courage with which he endured them; his serenityand good humour were never disturbed, and he never uttered aword or complaint, except occasionally at the length of hisconfinement. He not only saw all the visitors who chose to callupon him, even those with whom he was not in habits of intimacy, but he transacted the whole of his public business every day, andevery paper was laid before him and every detail gone through asif he had been in perfect health. This he continued to within afew days of his death, till his strength was so entirelyexhausted that he lay in a state of almost complete insensibility. It is remarkable that from the beginning to the end of hisillness I never saw him that he did not tell me that he was agreat deal better, and he never wrote to me without assuring methat he was going on as well as possible. 

[Page Head: FUNERAL OF THE DUKE OF YORK. ]

February 12th, 1827

The Duke of York was no sooner dead than the public press beganto attack him, and while those private virtues were not deniedhim for which he had always been conspicuous, they enlarged in astrain of severe invective against his careless and expensivehabits, his addiction to gambling; and above all they raked upthe old story of Mrs. Clark and the investigation of 1809, andpublished many of his letters and all the disgusting details ofthat unfortunate affair, and that in a manner calculated to throwdiscredit on his character. The newspapers, however, soon foundthey had made a mistake, that this course was not congenial topublic feeling, and from that moment their columns have beenfilled with panegyrics upon his public services and his privatevirtues. The King ordered that the funeral should be public andmagnificent; all the details of the ceremonial were arranged byhimself. He showed great feeling about his brother and exceedingkindness in providing for his servants, whom the Duke was himselfunable to provide for. He gave £6, 000 to pay immediate expensesand took many of the old servants into his own service. Thereappeared a few days after the Duke's death an infamous forgery, purporting to be a letter or declaration written by him a shorttime before his death (principally upon the subject of theCatholic question), which, however, was disavowed by Taylor, butnot till after many thousand copies had been sold. I dare saymany people believe still that he was the author of thispamphlet. All his effects either have been or will be sold byauction. The funeral took place a fortnight after his death. Nothing could be managed worse than it was, and except theappearance of the soldiers in the chapel, which was extremelyfine, the spectacle was by no means imposing; the cold wasintense, and it is only marvellous that more persons did notsuffer from it. As it is the Bishop of Lincoln has died of theeffects of it; Canning has been dangerously ill, and is stillvery unwell; and the Dukes of Wellington and Montrose were bothvery seriously unwell for some days after. The King was veryangry when he heard how miserably the ceremony had beenperformed. I have been this evening to hear Peel move the addressof condolence to the King, which Canning would have done if hehad been here; and it is a pity he was not, for Peel did it veryill: it was poor and jejune, and undistinguished by eloquence orthe appearance of deep feeling. I was greatly disappointed, for Iexpected to hear a worthier tribute to his merits. Canning wasvery anxious to have been here to have performed this dutyhimself. The letters which he wrote to the Royal Family abroadannouncing the event of his death were admirable and gave greatsatisfaction to the King. 

February 21st, 1827 {p. 090}

Three days ago Lord Liverpool was seized with an apoplectic orparalytic attack. The moment it was known every sort ofspeculation was afloat as to the probable changes this eventwould make in the Ministry. It was remarked how little anybodyappeared to care about the _man_; whether this indifferencereflects most upon the world or upon him, I do not pretend tosay. A report was generally circulated that the Duke ofCumberland was dead, which was believed, but turns out to beuntrue. 

Old Rundell (of the house of Rundell and Bridge, the greatsilversmiths and jewellers) died last week, and appointed Robartsone of his executors. Robarts called on me this morning, and toldme he had been yesterday to Doctors' Commons to prove the will. Rundell was eighty years old, and died worth between £1, 400, 000and £1, 500, 000, the greater part of which is vested in the funds. He has left the bulk of his property to his great-nephew, a manof the name of Neal, who is residuary legatee and will inherit£900, 000--this Mr. Neal had taken care of him for the lastfourteen years--to a woman who had lived with him many years, andin whose house he died, and to two natural sons by her he onlyleft £5, 000 apiece. The old man began the world without a guinea, became in the course of time partner in that house during itsmost flourishing period, and by steady gains and continualparsimony amassed this enormous wealth. He never spent anythingand lived wretchedly. During the panic he came to Robarts, whowas his banker, and offered to place at his disposal any sum hemight require. When the executors went to prove the will, theywere told at Doctors' Commons that it was the largest sum thatever had been registered there. 

March 13th, 1827 {p. 091}

Since the debate on the Catholic question there has been a greatexpectation that Canning would resign. Many of his friends thinkhe made an imprudent speech that night, and if he had not lashedthe Master of the Rolls so severely that he would have got morevotes. [8] The truth is he was mightily nettled by Dr. Philpots'pamphlet and at Copley making a speech taken entirely from it. The Master protested that he had no idea of offending Canning, and until he got up had no notion that Canning had taken offenceat his speech. The question was lost by accident; severalpro-Catholics were suddenly taken ill or arrived too late for thedivision, and the election petitions went all against them. 

 [8] [Sir John Copley was then Master of the Rolls, but this occurrence did not prevent Canning from making him Lord Chancellor on the 2nd of May following, when he was raised to the peerage with the title of Baron Lyndhurst. ]

[Page Head: INTERVIEW WITH GEORGE IV. ]

March 16th, 1827 {p. 091}

On Wednesday at the Council at St. James's the King desired Iwould go down to Windsor, that he might speak to me. I went downon Thursday to the Cottage, and, after waiting two hours and ahalf, was ushered into his bedroom. I found him sitting at around table near his bed, in a _douillette_, and in pretty goodhealth and spirits. He talked about his horses and told some oldstories, lamented the death of the Duke of York, which he saidwas a loss to him such as no one could conceive, and that he feltit every instant. He kept me about an hour, was very civil, andthen dismissed me. 

Canning made an apology to the Master of the Rolls for hisseverity in the debate on the Catholic question. 

March 25th, 1827 {p. 091}

When the King heard of Lord Liverpool's illness he was in greatagitation. He sent for Peel in the night, and told him he mustsee the Duke of Wellington. Peel endeavoured to dissuade him, butin vain. The Duke was sent for, but he refused to go. He sent theKing word that he had nothing to say to him, and that it wouldnot be fair to his colleagues that he should see the King at sucha moment. Consequently he saw none of his Ministers till he sawCanning, who was taken to the Pavilion in a chair one day. Therehave been a variety of reports about Lord Liverpool's successorand a new Administration, as always happens on such occasions. 

The King is in very good health and excellent spirits. He had alarge party at the Lodge last week, and Canning, the Granvilles, Carlisles, Lievens, are going there next week. Mount Charles toldme yesterday that next week he thinks something must be decided, and he told me what I did not know, that the King's opinions onthe Catholic question are just the same as those of the Duke ofYork, and equally strong. This is the great difficulty whichCanning has to get over with him. He does not much like Canning, though C. Does everything he can to gratify and please him. MountCharles told me that his mother (Lady Conyngham) has strongopinions in favour of the Catholics, but that she never talks tothe King on the subject, nor indeed upon politics at all. 

[Page Head: MR. CANNING'S ADMINISTRATION. ]

April 13th, 1827 {p. 092}

The King came to town a week ago. From the moment of his arrivalevery hour produced a fresh report about the Administration;every day the new appointment was expected to be declared, andthe Ministers Peel, Lord Bathurst, Duke of Wellington, andCanning were successively designated as the persons chosen toform a Government. He had no sooner arrived than he saw hisMinisters _seriatim_, but nothing could induce him to come to anydetermination. He wavered and doubted, and to his confidants, with whom he could bluster and talk big, he expressed in nomeasured terms his detestation of Liberal principles, andespecially of Catholic Emancipation. He begged his Ministers tostand by him, and day after day elapsed and nothing was settled. In the meantime London was alive with reports; and the _on dit_of the day, repeated with every variety of circumstance and withthe usual positiveness of entire ignorance, would fill a volume. Time crept on, and Parliament was to adjourn on the 13th (thisday). On the 9th Canning went to the King, and, after a longaudience, he came away without anything being settled. On the10th he went again, and told his Majesty that longer delay wasimpossible, and that he must come to some determination. On theevening of the 10th we received a note from Lord Bathurst, sayingthat the King had desired Canning to form an Administration onthe principles of that of which Lord Liverpool had been at thehead. This was not generally known that evening. Last night itwas said that the Duke of Wellington would not remain in the newCabinet, and we heard that Peel had resigned. To-day everythingwill probably be known. Canning and his friends say that the Kinghas behaved admirably in this business, and they affect toconsider his appointment unconditional and unfettered; but thisis by no means the view which the others take of it. The King, however, has acted in such a way that all his Ministers (exceptthose whose interest it now is to laud him to the skies) aredisgusted with his doubting, wavering, uncertain conduct, so weakin action and so intemperate in language. It is now supposedthat he has been influenced by Knighton in coming to thisdetermination, in which he certainly has acted in a manner quiteat variance with his professions and the whole tenor of hislanguage. It must be owned, if this is so, that although Canninghas gained his point--has got the power into his hands and isnominally Prime Minister--no man ever took office under morehumiliating circumstances or was placed in a more difficult anduncertain situation; indeed, a greater anomaly cannot beimagined. Canning, disliked by the King, opposed by thearistocracy and the nation, and unsupported by the Parliament, isappointed Prime Minister. The King, irresolute and uncertain, isinduced to nominate a man whose principles and opinions he fearsand dislikes by the advice and influence of his physician. Themeasure which is of paramount importance Canning cannot carry ashe desires and believes to be necessary; he must form a Cabinetfull of disunion, and he is doubtful what support he can expectfrom the old adherents of Government, by whom he is abhorred. 

[Page Head: MR. CANNING'S ADMINISTRATION. ]

The writ was moved for Canning yesterday by Wynne, 'he havingaccepted the office of First Commissioner of the Treasury. ' Thismorning the Chancellor, Peel, Lord Westmoreland, and the Duke ofWellington resigned. Lord Bathurst immediately wrote to Canning, saying that, finding they had resigned, he could not avoidsending in his resignation also; that it was unnecessary to enterinto explanations, which could only tend to widen the breach sucha separation must make. Afterwards Lord Melville resigned, although well with Canning and a friend to the Catholics; he saidhe could not desert the men with whom he had acted for so manyyears. The Whigs seem greatly elated at the breaking up of thisAdministration. The Tories evidently think Canning is in ascrape, that he will not be able to form a Government, and thatthe power will return into their hands. How Canning and hisfriends feel is not yet known, nor what the King feels at beingdeserted by half his Cabinet. The opinion prevalent with theOpposition is that Canning has been deserted by his colleagues, who induced him to accept the Government by promising theirsupport and adherence, and that when he had taken the final stepthey left him to make the arrangements and fill up their placesas he could. This, however, is not the case. I saw GeorgeDawson[9] this evening, and he assured me that Canning hadreceived ample notice from all these Ministers that they wouldnot hold office under him, and that if he was appointed PrimeMinister they should resign. Peel told him this three weeks ago:'that he could not, with a due regard to his own character, continue in office under a man whose opinions are so diametricallyopposite to his own upon the most important question; that he hadno views of personal ambition, but that as the administration ofIreland was his peculiar province it was impossible they shouldnot come into constant collision upon that subject. ' They had noobjection to act with Canning, always considering him as one ofthe most influential members of the Cabinet, but they could nothold offices _under_ him. He said that he could not imagine howCanning with his knowledge could take such a step, and it isevident that he has no idea of his being able to carry on theGovernment at all. 

 [9] The Right Hon. George Robert Dawson was Secretary of the Treasury from 1828 to 1830, and was made a Privy Councillor on resigning that office. He married in 1816 Mary, the eldest daughter of the first Sir Robert Peel, and was consequently the brother-in-law of Mr. Peel, the Minister. 

April 30th, 1827 {p. 095}

From the period of Canning's acceptance of office up to Thursdaynight there have been continual negotiations between Canning andthe Whigs, and it is not possible to imagine greater curiosityand more intense anxiety than have been exhibited during theinterval. The violence and confusion of parties have beenextreme--the new Ministers furious with their old colleagues, theex-Ministers equally indignant with those they left behind them. 

May 12th, 1827 {p. 095}

It is necessary to go back to the first formation of theGovernment. [10] As soon as Canning had got the King's commissionhe began to negotiate, and the Whigs readily enough entered intonegotiation. The friends of Ministers resigned one after another, and for some time it seemed very doubtful whether Canning wouldbe able to form a Government at all. His first measure was, however, very judicious--that of appointing the Duke of ClarenceLord High Admiral--nothing served so much to disconcert hisopponents. The negotiations went on (through the Duke ofDevonshire) up to the end of the Easter recess, when LordLansdowne came to town, and after much delay it was announcedthat the Whigs would support the new Government, but that none ofthem would take office immediately. The places were all filledup, but the appointments were understood to be only provisional, and the Duke of Portland, Lord Dudley, and Sturges Bourne wereconsidered to hold their offices until Lord Lansdowne, LordCarlisle, and Tierney should join the Cabinet. With thisarrangement Parliament met, and the rage which had beenaccumulating in the minds of the seceders soon burst forth in afurious attack on this provisional arrangement. The Whigs havenearly in a body joined Government, with the exception of LordGrey in the House of Lords, who in a speech full of eloquenceattacked Canning's political life and character and announced hisintention of remaining neuter. In the meantime it was understoodthat there was a reason for Lord Lansdowne not joining Governmentimmediately, which was not to be made public till that event tookplace, and this secret was only imparted to a very few people; itwas even concealed from Brougham and the leaders of the party. The secret, however, turns out to be this: Lord Lansdowneinsisted upon modelling the Irish Government as he pleased--thatis, in putting a Lord-Lieutenant, a Chancellor, and a Secretarythere favourable to the Catholic claims, to which the King wouldnot consent. Canning entreated Lord Lansdowne to have patience, to allow time to elapse, during which the King's scruples mightbe removed, and promised that every endeavour should be made toreconcile the King to the arrangement Lord Lansdowne desired. After much discussion it was resolved that Lord Lansdowne shouldsupport Government, but that he should not take office until thispoint was settled; and so the matter has remained. 

 [10] [The Cabinet formed by Mr. Canning was thus constituted:-- Mr. Canning, First Lord of the Treasury and Chancellor of the Exchequer. Lord Lyndhurst, Lord High Chancellor. Earl of Harrowby, Lord President of the Council. Duke of Portland, Lord Privy Seal, and afterwards the Earl of Carlisle. Lord Dudley, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. Lord Goderich, Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs and War. Mr. Sturges Bourne, Secretary of State for the Home Department (this office was shortly afterwards transferred to the Marquis of Lansdowne) Mr. Huskisson, President of the Board of Trade. Mr. Wynn, President of the Board of Control. Lord Bexley, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster. Mr. Tierney, Master of the Mint. The Duke of Clarence was named Lord High Admiral. The Office of Commander-in-Chief remained vacant during the Administration of Mr. Canning. This Administration lasted ninety-eight days, until the death of Mr. Canning. ]

[Page Head: MR. CANNING'S ADMINISTRATION. ]

June 3rd, 1827 {p. 096}

Soon after writing this Lord Lansdowne came into the Cabinet, together with Tierney and Lord Carlisle, M'Donald and Abercrombyalso taking places. They found so many objections to theunsettled state of the Cabinet, and the provisional arrangementshad brought so much odium and ridicule upon the Government, thatit was thought necessary to settle this matter without loss oftime, but Lord Lansdowne would not consent to take the HomeOffice except upon the conditions on which he had beforeinsisted. He therefore came into the Cabinet without a place. Butit is quite evident that the present state of affairs is far fromsatisfactory; the Government is not established on a firm orsecure basis, and the members of it are not altogether satisfiedwith each other or themselves. Lord Lansdowne particularly doesnot feel comfortable where he is, and does not think that he hasbeen well treated by his own friends. It seems that when firstovertures were made to him by Canning he called a meeting of hisfriends at Lansdowne House, at which he declared his ownsentiments and the conditions on which he would join theGovernment. The persons there assembled unanimously agreed withhim, but a few days after a meeting was called at Brooks's whichwas more numerously attended, and there certain resolutions wereagreed upon which were not in conformity with the opinionsexpressed in Lansdowne House, and these resolutions werecommunicated to Canning as the sentiments of the great body ofthe Whigs, but without the same being imparted to Lord Lansdowne, who was then at Bowood (this fact I had last night fromDuncannon[11] and Hobhouse[12]). Matters, however, went onquietly enough till the other night, when the Government was beatin the House of Lords upon the clause in the Corn Bill, and thisdefeat it is obvious has enraged and embarrassed them to thegreatest degree. [13] Duncannon, who is entirely in the confidenceof the moderate Whig party, says that it is impossible the thingcan go on in this way; three Lords in the King's household(Errol, Macclesfield, and Delawarr) voted against the Bill, andif they are not dismissed it will be such a proof of thefeebleness of Government as will disgust all the Whigs and maketheir support very lukewarm. [14] Burdett, who was more active andzealous than anybody in bringing about the Coalition, is verymuch disgusted already, and there appears altogether such a wantof confidence and unanimity among them as must lead to thedissolution of the Government unless Canning can by some vigorousmeasures establish his credit and convince the world of hisstrength. In Ireland the Chancellor[15] has refused to put theGreat Seal to the appointment of Doherty as Solicitor-General. Itis supposed that he will take this occasion to resign, and itwill then be seen what part the King will take in the nominationof his successor. The King sees numbers of people, talksincessantly, and does nothing. Canning was with him yesterdayevening, and the result of his audience will be very interesting, because it will appear whether he has insisted upon, and the Kingconsented to, the dismissal of the refractory Lords, as well aswhat he will do about the Irish Chancellor. Government areindignant with the Duke of Wellington and the other ex-Ministersfor opposing the Corn Bill, which they had been themselves (whenin office) instrumental in framing, as well as for the use whichthe Duke made of Huskisson's letter. 

 [11] [John William, Viscount Duncannon, afterwards fourth Earl of Bessborough. ]

 [12] [Mr. John Cam Hobhouse, M. P. For Westminster, afterwards Sir John C. Hobhouse, Bart. , raised to the peerage in 1851 by the title of Baron Broughton de Giffard. ]

 [13] [It was with reference to this defeat that Canning said soon afterwards in the House of Commons that 'the Duke of Wellington had been made the instrument of others for their own particular views, ' and he pledged himself to bring in another Corn Bill in the following session. But these were almost the last words uttered by Canning in Parliament. ]

 [14] [Lord Delawarr resigned of his own accord, Lord Errol was obliged to resign, and Lord Macclesfield came over and voted with Government on the second reading of the Corn Bill. ]

 [15] [Lord Manners was still Lord Chancellor of Ireland, as he had been since 1807. Mr. Doherty was made Solicitor-General for Ireland on the 18th of June. ]

[Page Head: THE ROYAL LODGE. ]

June 17th, 1827 {p. 098}

I was at the Royal Lodge for one night last Wednesday; aboutthirty people sat down to dinner, and the company was changednearly every day. It is a delightful place to live in, but therooms are too low and too small for very large parties. Nothingcan exceed the luxury of the internal arrangements; the King wasvery well and in excellent spirits, but very weak in his kneesand could not walk without difficulty. The evening passed offtolerably, owing to the Tyrolese, whom Esterhazy brought down toamuse the King, and he was so pleased with them that he made themsing and dance before him the whole evening; the women kissed hisface and the men his hand, and he talked to them in German. Though this evening went off well enough, it is clear thatnothing would be more insupportable than to live at this Court;the dulness must be excessive, and the people who compose hishabitual society are the most insipid and uninteresting that canbe found. As for Lady Conyngham, she looks bored to death, andshe never speaks, never appears to have one word to say to theKing, who, however, talks himself without ceasing. Canning camethe day I went away, and was very well received by his Majesty;he looked dreadfully ill. The only thing which interested me wasthe account I heard from Francis Conyngham about Knighton. He isseldom there, and when he comes scarcely stays above a night ortwo. But he governs everything about the house, and cannot endureanybody who is likely to dispute his empire. The King certainlydoes not like him, is always happier when he is away, and neverpresses him to stay or to return. When he is there he hasconstant access to the King at all times and whenever he pleases. He is on bad terms with Mount Charles, he bullies Lord Conyngham, and he is barely civil to Lady C. ; he knows that Mount Charles isindependent of him, and that the King likes him and admits himcontinually and familiarly to his presence, and of this it seemsthat he is jealous. I was more struck with one word which droppedfrom him than with all he told me of Sir W. Knighton. While theTyrolese were dancing and singing, and there was a sort of gayuproar going on, with which the King was greatly delighted, hesaid, 'I would give ten guineas to see Knighton walk into theroom now, ' as if it were some master who was absent, and whoshould suddenly return and find his family and servantsmerrymaking in his absence; it indicates a strange sort of powerpossessed by him. 

[Page Head: HOSTILITY OF LORD GREY. ]

The King was very civil to the Duke of Dorset, and repeatedlytold him that what had passed would make no difference in theirprivate friendship. In the meantime the Corn Bill has been thrownout, and I think political animosities are full as strong asever, though they have taken rather a sulky than a violent tone. I had a long conversation with Duncannon yesterday, who is fullypossessed of the sentiments of all the Whigs, and by what he saysit is clear that they are extremely dissatisfied; they wantCanning to display his power by some signal act of authority, andto show that he is really supported cordially by the King. Theopposite party are persuaded that the King is secretly inclinedto them and averse to his present Government, and this opinionobtains more or less with the public in consequence of theimpunity with which Canning has been braved by the Chancellor inIreland. The appointment of Doherty as Solicitor-General hasnever yet passed the Great Seal, and Lord Manners refuses tosanction it; he has likewise refused to put Sir Patrick Bellew (aCatholic) in the Commission of the Peace, though he is arespectable man and he has been strongly pressed to do it even byProtestants. This refusal so disgusted Duncannon that he was verynear withdrawing his name from the Commission, and if he had hisexample would have been followed by many others, but Lord Spencerdissuaded him from doing so. Lord Grey is in such a state ofirritation that he will hardly speak to any of his old friends, and he declares that he will never set his foot in Brooks'sagain. All this is the more extraordinary, and the vivacity ofhis temper the more unaccountable, because he has constantlydeclined taking an active part in politics when invited to do sofor a long time past; and whenever Duncannon has asked his adviceor consulted his opinions or wishes, he has invariably referredhim to Lord Lansdowne as the person whom his friends were to lookupon as their leader, asserting that he had withdrawn himselffrom public life and would have no more concern with politics. More than this, when first overtures were made by Canning to theWhigs, it was the unanimous opinion of all those who have sincejoined the Government that Lord Lansdowne and his friends couldnot join an Administration of which Peel was to be a member (forat that time the resignation of Peel was not contemplated as aprobable event), and this opinion was warmly combated by LordGrey, who contended that there was no reason why they should notcoalesce with Canning and Peel. What induced him to alter hisopinion so decidedly and to become so bitter an enemy to thepresent arrangements does not appear, unless it is to beattributed to a feeling of pique and resentment at not havingbeen more consulted, or that overtures were not made to himself. The pretext he took for declaring himself was the appointment ofCopley to be Chancellor, when he said that it was impossible tosupport a Government which had made such an appointment. 

July 5th, 1827 {p. 101}

The session is over, and has been short but violent enough. Thereis apparently a majority against the Ministry in the House ofLords, though they seem safe in the House of Commons. All dependsupon Canning's prudence and firmness during the recess. As to theKing, he seems desirous of living a quiet life and disposing ofall patronage; public measures and public men are equallyindifferent to him. The Duke of Wellington, who knows him well, says he does not care a farthing about the Catholic question, buthe does not like to depart from the example of his father and theDuke of York, to which they owed so much of their popularity. Hisconduct is entirely influenced by selfish considerations, and heneither knows nor cares what measures the exigencies of thecountry demand. The present state of parties is so extraordinarythat it cannot last, and it remains to be seen whether Lord Greyand the other Whigs will reunite themselves to the main body andsupport Canning's Government, or whether they will join with theTories in their efforts to overturn it. Lord Grey's temper, irritated by the attacks which have been made on him, seemslikely to urge him to the latter alternative. 

July 25th, 1827 {p. 102}

Canning is gone to Chiswick, where he has had the lumbago, andcould not go to the Council last week. He is very unwell, and ina very precarious state, I think. I was at the Council lastMonday week; it was held for the appointment of Lords Lansdowneand Carlisle, Lord Lansdowne having consented to take the HomeOffice, and Lord Carlisle the Privy Seal; the only CabinetMinisters present were the four who changed places. It was thefirst time the King had given Lord Lansdowne an audience, but Ibelieve he was very civil to him. The King gave him an account ofthe Duke of Buckingham's visit to him (from Dropmore), the resultof which was that he sent his proxy to Lord Goderich, but notwith a good grace. 

The Duke of Wellington has been to the Lodge, and great is thespeculation thereupon. [16] It is fiercely debated whether he wentby invitation or not, and how long he stayed. He was only withthe King twenty minutes, for so Prince Leopold, who was there, told Lambton, who told me. I don't know if he was invited or no. The King has taken from Prince Leopold the plate that was given, or, as they now say, lent to him, on his marriage. The Chamberlainsent to Sir E. Gardiner for it in the Prince's absence, and herefused to give it up without his Royal Highness's orders, butthe Prince, as soon as he heard of it, ordered it to be sent tothe Chamberlain. 

 [16] [The causes and consequences of this visit, which was by invitation from the King, are related in the Duke of Wellington's 'Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. Iv. P. 63 _et seq_. ]

The Irish Chancellor has given way about Doherty's appointment, and put the Great Seal to it before his own resignation. He didit with a good grace, Lord Lansdowne told me. 

We went all over the Castle the other day; his Majesty will notlet anybody see it now. I don't think enough is effected for theenormous sums expended, though it is a fine and will be a goodhouse; still, how far (as a palace) from Versailles, St. Cloud, and the other palaces in France! The external terrace has spoiltthe old one, and is altogether a frightful excrescence, andshould never have been made. 

[Page Head: DEATH OF CANNING. ]

August 9th, 1827 {p. 103}

Canning died yesterday morning at four o'clock. His danger wasonly announced on Sunday night, though it had existed from thepreceding Wednesday. When he saw the King on Monday his Majestytold him he looked very ill, and he replied that 'he did not knowwhat was the matter with him, but that he was ill all over. 'Nothing could exceed the consternation caused by the announcementof his danger and the despair of his colleagues. From the firstthere was no hope. He was aware of his danger, and said, 'It ishard upon the King to have to fight the battle over again. ' TheCabinet met on Monday, and great unanimity prevailed among them. They all agreed to stand by each other in the event of his death. As soon as it happened Lord Lansdowne went down to Windsor andsaw the King. His Majesty spoke with great affection of Canning, and said something of the difficulties in which he was againinvolved. Lord L. Replied that he had come down, as it was hisofficial duty to do, to announce to him the event; that nothingcould be further from his wish or intention than to elicit fromhim any opinion as to the future, and he begged his Majesty wouldnot say one word upon that subject. The King said that the firstthing he should do would be to show every mark of respect to thememory and attachment to the person of Canning, and that heshould therefore send for those of his Ministers who had been themost closely connected with him in public and private life. Hesent immediately for Lord Goderich and Sturges Bourne, who wentdown to him when Lord Lansdowne returned. 

Yesterday I saw some letters from Mr. Arbuthnot[17] (Gosh) givingan account of the break-up of the old Government, and of thereasons by which they had been influenced in resigning. They werethree in number, very violent and indignant, defending the Dukeand attacking Canning, but they contained little more than hassince appeared and been made public. The only fact that appearedto me of consequence was this: that Peel, though he had resignedon different grounds, was indignant at the way in which the Dukehad been treated, and was resolved never to take office till fullreparation had been made to him; that Lord Bathurst had beggedGosh (Mr. Arbuthnot) not to mention this, as it might do harm. The next letter was a long tirade with a great deal of wrath andindignation, such as might be expected. He says that they knewCanning was negotiating with the Whigs while he was pretendingthat he wished the old Government to go on; and that in thecourse of the negotiation with his old colleagues he offeredPeel, if he would stay with him, to recall the pro-CatholicLord-Lieutenant and send a Protestant. Peel wanted the Duke togive up the army and take the Treasury, which he would not hearof. He was miserable at the idea, and opposed it so strongly thatthey could not press it upon him. However, the Peers--meaning allthe Lords who had made such a stir--applied to the Duke to puthimself at the head of the Government, but he hardly sent ananswer to their application--he would not hear of it. 

 [17] [Right Hon. Charles Arbuthnot, the most confidential friend of the Duke of Wellington, with whom he lived. He was known in society by the nickname of 'Gosh, ' by which he is frequently described in these Journals. ]

[Page Head: ANECDOTES OF CANNING. ]

I may here introduce some anecdotes of Canning told me by LordGeorge Bentinck, his private secretary:--

Some time after they had been in office (after Lord Londonderry'sdeath) they found in a drawer, which apparently had beenforgotten or overlooked, some papers, which were despatches andcopies of correspondence between Lord Castlereagh and LordStewart. These despatches were very curious, and more particularlyso after his attack last year on Canning for misappropriating thesecret service money, for they gave an account of his ownemployment of the secret service money in getting Italianwitnesses for the Queen's trial. There was likewise an account ofthe discovery Stewart had made of the treachery of an officemessenger, who had for a long time carried all his despatches toMetternich before he took them to England, and Lord Stewart says, 'I tremble when I think of the risk which my despatches haveincurred of coming before the House of Commons, as there wereletters of Lord Londonderry's written expressly "to throw dust inthe eyes of the Parliament. "' These were his own expressions, andhe said, 'You will understand this and know what to say toMetternich. ' In fact, while Lord Castlereagh was obliged topretend to disapprove of the Continental system of the HolyAlliance he secretly gave Metternich every assurance of hisprivate concurrence, and it was not till long after Mr. Canning'saccession that Metternich could be persuaded of his sincerity inopposing their views, always fancying that he was obliged to acta part as his predecessor had done to keep the House of Commonsquiet. 

From the moment Mr. Canning came into the Cabinet he laboured toaccomplish the recognition of the South American Republics, butall the Cabinet were against him except Lord Liverpool, and theKing would not hear of it. The King was supported in hisopposition by the Duke of Wellington and by Lieven and Esterhazy, whom he used to have with him; and to them he inveighed againstCanning for pressing this measure. The Duke of Wellington andthose Ambassadors persuaded his Majesty that if he consented itwould produce a quarrel between him and his allies, and involvehim in inextricable difficulties. Canning, who knew all this, wrote to Mrs. Canning in terms of great bitterness, and said ifthe King did not take care he would not let him see theseAmbassadors except in his presence, and added, 'I can tell hisMajesty that his father would never have acted in such a manner. 'At length after a long contest, in the course of which Peel cameround to him, he resolved to carry the measure or resign. After abattle in the Cabinet which lasted three hours, and from which hecame heated, exhausted, and indignant, he prepared a memorial tothe King, and Lord Liverpool another, in which they tenderedtheir resignations, alleging at length their reasons, and thisthey submitted to the Cabinet the following day. When theircolleagues found they were in earnest they unanimously surrendered, and agreed upon a declaration to the King that they would allresign unless the measure was adopted. This communication wasmade to his Majesty by the Duke of Wellington, who told him thathe found Canning was in earnest, and that the Government couldnot go on without him, and he must give way. The King accordinglygave way, but with a very ill grace. [18] When he saw Canning hereceived him very ill, and in a letter to him signifying hisassent to the measure he said that it must be his business tohave it carried into effect in the best way it would admit of. Canning took fire at the ungracious tone of the letter, and wrotefor answer that he feared he was not honoured with thatconfidence which it was necessary that the King should have inhis Ministers, and that his Majesty had better dismiss him atonce. The King sent no answer, but a gracious message, assuringhim he had mistaken his letter, and desiring he would come to theCottage, when he received him very well. From that time he grewin favour, for when the King found that none of the evilspredicted of this measure had come to pass, and how it raised thereputation of his Minister, he liked it very well, and Canningdexterously gave him all the praise of it, so that he soonfancied it had originated with himself, and became equallysatisfied with himself and with Canning. 

 [18] [The memorial of Mr. Canning on this subject, the counter-opinions of the Duke of Wellington, and the King's minute upon them have been published in the second volume of the New Series of the 'Duke of Wellington's Correspondence, ' pp. 354, 364, and 402. ]

Canning concealed nothing from Mrs. Canning, nor from CharlesEllis. When absent from Mrs. C. He wrote everything to her in thegreatest detail. Canning's industry was such that he never left amoment unemployed, and such was the clearness of his head that hecould address himself almost at the same time to severaldifferent subjects with perfect precision and without the leastembarrassment. He wrote very fast, but not fast enough for hismind, composing much quicker than he could commit his ideas topaper. He could not bear to dictate, because nobody could writefast enough for him; but on one occasion, when he had the gout inhis hand and could not write, he stood by the fire and dictatedat the same time a despatch on Greek affairs to George Bentinckand one on South American politics to Howard de Walden, eachwriting as fast as he could, while he turned from one to theother without hesitation or embarrassment. 

August 10th, 1827 {p. 107}

The Cabinet sat yesterday morning and again at night. It isgenerally believed that Lord Goderich will succeed Canning at theTreasury, and Lord Lansdowne has no objection to serve under him. The Tories were full of hope and joy at first, but in proportionas they were elated at first so were they dejected yesterday, when they found that the King sent for Lord Goderich and not forthe Duke of Wellington. He never seems to have thought of theDuke at all. It will all be out to-day or to-morrow. The Toriesmay now give the King up. They have taken leave of office, exceptPeel, who will come in some day or other. 

[They remained out of office five months. What a prophecy!--_January 28th, 1828_. ]

[Page Head: WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF CANNING. ]

The Duke of Wellington talked of Canning the other day a greatdeal at my mother's. He said his talents were astonishing, hiscompositions admirable, that he possessed the art of sayingexactly what was necessary and passing over those topics on whichit was not advisable to touch, his fertility and resourcesinexhaustible. He thought him the finest speaker he had everheard; though he prided himself extremely upon his compositions, he would patiently endure any criticisms upon such papers as hesubmitted for the consideration of the Cabinet, and would allowthem to be altered in any way that was suggested; he (the Duke)particularly had often 'cut and hacked' his papers, and Canningnever made the least objection, but was always ready to adopt thesuggestions of his colleagues. It was not so, however, inconversation and discussion. Any difference of opinion or dissentfrom his views threw him into ungovernable rage, and on suchoccasions he flew out with a violence which, the Duke said, hadoften compelled him to be silent that he might not be involved inbitter personal altercation. He said that Canning was usuallyvery silent in the Cabinet, seldom spoke at all, but when he didhe maintained his opinions with extraordinary tenacity. He saidthat he was one of the idlest of men. This I do not believe, forI have always heard that he saw everything and did everythinghimself. Not a despatch was received that he did not read, norone written that he did not dictate or correct. 

[Page Head: COUNCIL AT WINDSOR. ]

August 20th, 1827 {p. 108}

There was a Council at Windsor Castle on Friday last, which was avery curious scene. What I saw puzzled me very much till mattershave since been explained to me. 

On Tuesday morning Drummond, Lord Goderich's private secretary, came to me at my office and told me the Council would be held onFriday, and that Herries was to be appointed Chancellor of theExchequer and was going down that day with Lord Goderich toWindsor. Accordingly when I arrived at the Castle I found Herriesin the room, and I asked him if he was to take an oath asChancellor of the Exchequer, because there was none in theoath-book for Chancellor, but one for the Treasurer of theExchequer, and whether he was to take that. He said he did notknow, upon which I asked Wynn if he knew. He did not; when we allagreed to wait till Lord Bexley came, [19] and enquire of him whathe had done. When Lord Bexley arrived we asked him, and he saidthat Herries would only be sworn then as a Privy Councillor, andmust take the oath of Chancellor of Exchequer in the Court ofExchequer. Shortly after we walked round the Castle, and someconversation occurring about the elevation of the Round Tower, which Wyattville was anxious to accomplish, Herries said to him, 'But it is my business now to ask you what you will do it for, how much it will cost. Will you do it for £10, 000?' Wyattvillesaid, 'You must give me £15, 000, ' so that I could have no doubtthat Herries was Chancellor of the Exchequer. In the meantime allthe Ministers arrived, the whole Cabinet being present except theChancellor and Lord Anglesey, who arrived afterwards. As soon asLord Goderich and Lord Lansdowne were come they retired into thenext room and had a long conference. Shortly afterwards the Kingcame, when Lord Goderich went into his room. He stayed some time, when the Duke of Portland went in, then Herries. When LordGoderich came out he had another conference with Lord Lansdowne, at the end of which he went again to the King. He came out, andat the end of three-quarters of an hour went a third time, andafter him Herries a second time, and with him Lord Bexley. Another very animated conversation took place between LordLansdowne and Lord Goderich, when the latter went to the King afourth time, and after him Lord Lansdowne, Goderich whisperingsomething to him as he went in. Previous to this I remarked aconference between Lord Lansdowne, Goderich, and Carlisle, afterwhich Carlisle took Tierney into the next room, evidentlycommunicating what had passed. Something was clearly going on, but I could not make out what. I fancied that Lord Lansdowneinsisted upon Lord Holland's being in the Cabinet. Yesterday, however, I discovered that it was all about Herries and hisappointment. The appointment was the King's, with whom Herrieshad ingratiated himself by transacting some of his pecuniarybusiness, and getting odds and ends for him out of _droits_, &c. The King then named him, and Goderich made no objection. Herriescame to Windsor, not doubting but that he was to receive theseals, which in fact Goderich brought down with him on purpose. Lord Lansdowne, however, declared that he would not consent tothe appointment, and hence arose all the conferences andaudiences for which I could not account at the time. The Whigsdislike Herries' politics, and still more do they object to theKing taking upon himself to nominate the members of theGovernment without consulting his Ministers. They are determinedto resist this nomination, and the consequence of Lord Lansdowne'sremonstrance was the suspension at least of the appointment. Suchis the state of affairs, and not a very agreeable statecertainly. 

 [19] [Lord Bexley as Mr. Vansittart had been Chancellor of the Exchequer, from 1812 to 1823. ]

The Whigs are satisfied of the candour, fairness, and plaindealing of Goderich, but dissatisfied with his facility and wantof firmness. The King is grasping at power and patronage, andwants to take advantage of the weakness of the Government andtheir apparent dependence upon him to exercise all the authoritywhich ought to belong to the Ministers. The Whigs are not easy intheir places. They feel that they are not treated with theconsideration to which they are entitled. But they have got toofar to recede, and they evidently are alarmed lest, if theyexasperate the King, he should accept their resignation and forma Government by a junta of the old Tories with the rest of hisAdministration, by which their exclusion would be made certainand perpetual. I find that the Duke of Portland was likewisenamed by the King himself. They do not object to the Duke, on thecontrary, but they object greatly to his being so appointed. Allthis I have from Tierney, who added, if the Duke had beenproposed to the King by Lord Goderich, not a member of theCabinet would have objected, but they don't like his being namedby the King. At the end of the Council, on Friday, Lord Angleseyarrived, having travelled day and night, and brought with him theDuke of Wellington's acceptance of the command of the army. Altogether it was a day of unusual interest, and unlike thedulness of ordinary Councils. 

[Page Head: MR. HERRIES' APPOINTMENT. ]

September 1st, 1827 {p. 110}

Since the Council on the 17th the affair of Herries has stillbeen going on. It appears that when Goderich went into the King(at the Council) to announce to him the objection that had beenraised, his Majesty was very angry, angry at having been socommitted and at being obliged to give up a nomination he liked. Herries naturally felt himself very ill treated and nettled bythe attacks upon him in the newspapers. He has ever sinceinsisted upon being admitted to the Cabinet as the only thingwhich could afford due reparation to his honour, and prove thathe had not been rejected for the reasons which had been assigned. This the Ministers opposed, and it was at length determined thatthis matter should rest till Huskisson's return. Huskisson agreedwith his colleagues about Herries, went to the King, and spoke tohim openly and firmly on the subject. The King consented thatanother arrangement should be made; the one proposed was, thatSturges Bourne should be Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Herriestake the Woods and Forests without a seat in the Cabinet. Herries, who had constantly refused to accede to any arrangementby which he was to be excluded from the Cabinet, said he wouldconsider of it; but in the meantime Sturges took fright, andrefused to take the Exchequer. In vain Huskisson offered to takeall the trouble on himself, and they all tried to persuadeSturges. He would not do it, and so this arrangement fell to theground. They went again to the King yesterday to report progressand state to him what had occurred. When they came back(Goderich, Huskisson, Sturges, Herries, and the Chancellor)Goderich wrote a long letter to Lord Lansdowne, and he is to goto the King again this evening. 

I had a long conversation with Tierney yesterday, and I find thatthe Whig Ministers are sick to death of their situation andanxious to resign. They think they are not treated with theconsideration which is due to them whether as individuals or asthe representatives of a great party who are supporting theGovernment. Then they think Goderich has behaved so ill in thisaffair that they can have no confidence in him. They believe somuch in the integrity of his character that they do not suspecthim of any duplicity in what has passed, but his conduct has beenmarked by such deplorable weakness as shows how unfit he is forthe situation he occupies. He has acted equally ill to the King, to his colleagues, and to Herries himself. The history of thetransaction is this:--While Goderich was Chancellor of theExchequer Herries was the man upon whose assistance he relied tocarry on the business of his office, and who in fact did it allfor him. As soon as he was at the head of the Treasury hefelt that Herries would be equally necessary to him, and heaccordingly pressed him to take the office of Chancellor of theExchequer, which Herries declined. After repeated solicitations, Herries told him that he had no objection to belong to hisGovernment, and that he would take the office of Vice-Presidentof the Board of Trade, and do all his Treasury business for him(this is the account of Herries' friends, which seems to mesomewhat doubtful), though he did not wish to be in the Cabinet. At last, however, Goderich prevailed on Herries to let himpropose him to the King, which was done. The appointment wasparticularly agreeable to the King, who wrote a letter with hisown hand to Herries, desiring him to take the place. WhenGoderich returned to town, with this letter in his pocket, hewent (before he delivered it) to the Cabinet, and then mentioningHerries, without saying what had passed, he found that theCabinet would not approve of the appointment, on which he went toHerries, and said that he found that it would not do, and beggedhim to allow his appointment to be cancelled. Herries told himthat he had never desired it, and was quite ready to give it up. As soon as Herries had agreed to give it up Goderich pulls out ofhis pocket the King's letter, and says, 'By-the-by, here is aletter which I ought to have given you before. ' When Herries hadread this letter he said, 'This puts me quite in anothersituation, and though I am still ready to give up beingChancellor of the Exchequer, I must have my conduct explained tothe King, and you must take me down to Windsor to-morrow for thatpurpose. ' This Goderich refused to do, when Herries said heshould go down by himself. He did so, and then passed all which Ihave described above in the account of the Council on the 19th. Iought to have mentioned, as not the least curious circumstance ofthe Council, that in the middle of it the King sent for SirWilliam Knighton, who was closeted with him for an hour. I seethis account is not altogether the same as the preceding, a proofof the inaccuracy of anecdotes and historical facts whenever theydiffer. This is the true one. 

Henry de Ros told me that he saw George Dawson, Peel'sbrother-in-law, at Brighton, who told him that he believed therewas nobody the King was more exasperated against than Peel, andfor this reason:--When the late Government (Canning's) wasforming, Peel went to the King, and in reply to his desire thathe should form a part of it told him he could not continue in anyGovernment the head of which was a supporter of CatholicEmancipation. The King proposed to him to remain, with a secretpledge and promise from him that the question should not becarried. This of course Peel refused, and the King, who construedhis rejection of the disgraceful proposal as conveying a doubt ofhis word, dismissed him with much resentment. 

[Page Head: LORD LANSDOWNE AND THE KING. ]

September 15th, 1827

Taking up the account from where I left off, Goderich went to theKing, and it was settled Herries was to be Chancellor of theExchequer. He returned and wrote to Lord Lansdowne entreating himto acquiesce. Lord Lansdowne went to the King, and the result ofhis interview was that he retained office together with hisfriends. He wrote a letter to one of them, which he intendedmight be communicated to others, giving an account of his conductand motives. I saw this letter. He said the King received himvery well and spared no entreaties to him to keep office. TheKing said that he was most anxious the present Government shouldcontinue on every account, but more particularly on account ofwhat was now passing on the Continent; that Lord Lansdowne'sholding office was indispensable for this object, and he askedhim in his own name and for the sake of the country not toresign; that what had occurred had arisen out of a series ofblunders which, 'let me say, ' he added, 'were neither yours normine. ' Lord Lansdowne said it was put to him in such a way thathe could not do otherwise; that he had insisted with Goderichthat Stanley and Mackintosh[20] should be employed. This was thepith of his letter. I have been with Huskisson for a week in thecountry; he is in good health and excellent spirits. Capod'Istria was there, going to Greece. Huskisson told me he wantedmoney. He owned to me that he considered Greece as a greathumbug. I discovered from what he said that they only interferedthat they might keep the Russians quiet and prevent a war betweenRussia and Turkey. The Sultan had announced his intention ofsending any Minister to the Seven Towers who should communicatethe treaty to him. [21] Everything is now quiet for the moment, and will probably continue so till the meeting of Parliament. 

 [20] [Mr Stanley, afterwards Earl of Derby, had taken office under Mr. Canning, and was Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies from April 1827 till January 1828. Lord Lansdowne must have recommended him for a higher office. ]

 [21] [The Treaty of London for the Settlement of the Affairs of Greece was signed by England, France, and Russia on the 7th of July, 1827. It was of course received with indignation by the Porte, and led three months afterwards to the battle of Navarino, which was fought on the 20th of October. ]

December 13th, 1827 {p. 114}

Three months have passed since the above was written. I went toDoncaster and Chatsworth, then to Newmarket, and returned to townthe middle of last month. The battle of Navarino has been fought, and after three weeks' expectation we know very little about thematter. The strong part of the Cabinet, with Huskisson at thehead, are for letting things take their course, and for sufferingRussia to go to war with Turkey, and leaving it to her to enforcethe articles of the Treaty of London. The plan is that Russiashould occupy Moldavia and Wallachia; that the terms should thenbe offered to the Sultan, and that on his yielding the Greekindependence these provinces should be evacuated by the Russians;this is what they propose that our mediation shall effect. In themeantime the Ministers are uneasy about the approaching meetingof Parliament. They anticipate a violent opposition in the Houseof Lords; they are by no means sure of a majority in that House, and there is not one among them who has spirit and characterenough to face it. Lord Dudley is terrified to the greatestdegree at the notion of being attacked by Lord Grey. Then, thoughthey are not disunited, they derive no strength from mutualco-operation and support, and the tone which the King has assumed, and the peremptory manner in which he has claimed the disposal ofevery sort of patronage, is both a proof of the weakness ofGovernment, a source of discord among themselves, and the causeof distrust mixed with contempt on the part of many of theirfriends. The King and the Duke of Clarence made the promotionsand dispensed the honours after the battle of Navarino withoutconsulting the Ministers. The King gave Sumner the Bishopric ofWinchester in the same way, [22] and there is a very generalopinion that the Cabinet is weak, that they do not act togetherwith cordiality, that they have neither energy nor authority, andare not likely to keep their places. It has been currentlyreported that they would willingly have censured Codrington, andhave thrown the responsibility of the battle from their ownshoulders upon his, if they had dared, but that they wereprevented by the precipitate approbation expressed by the King. These things are greatly exaggerated, but are not withoutfoundation. 

 [22] [_Vide supra_, p. 45, when Lord Liverpool caused the nomination of Mr. Sumner to a canonry of Windsor to be cancelled, because he had not been consulted. The King took the earliest opportunity of appointing him to the See of Llandaff, whence he was soon afterwards translated to that of Winchester. He died in 1874. ]

[Page Head: LORD GODERICH'S RESIGNATION. ]

December 15th, 1827

The Ministry is at an end. Goderich resigned either by letter tothe King yesterday or at the Council on Thursday. They have beengoing on ill together for some time. Goderich has no energy, andhis colleagues are disgusted at his inefficiency, and at theassumption by the King of all power in disposing of patronage. Huskisson is away, and wishes to be out. They are embarrassedwith the Greek question, and have to meet Parliament with animmense deficiency in the revenue. This state of things andmutual irritation and dissatisfaction have at length producedGoderich's resignation. Yesterday the Chancellor, Dudley, andHuskisson were backwards and forwards to the King all day, andwhen he went to Windsor at half-past five they were still in thePalace, and he left them there in consultation. He is gone, butKnighton remains behind to negotiate and communicate. In themeantime I find that the King is quite mad upon the Catholicquestion, and that his real desire is to get rid of the Whigs, take back the Duke of Wellington, and make an anti-CatholicGovernment. This seems to be quite impossible in the presentstate of affairs, but a few days will probably produce somedecisive change. 

 1828. 

January 2nd, 1828 {p. 116}

As soon as Lord Goderich had resigned they sent to Lord Harrowbyand offered him the Premiership. He came to town directly, andwent to the King, but refused the place. His refusal wasimmediately known, and of course there were a variety ofconjectures and opinions afloat as to the man who would bechosen. A few days, however, put an end to these, for it wasannounced, to the astonishment of everybody, that Goderich hadreturned to town, and that he would not resign. Here ended thismatter, which made a great noise for a few days; but the effectsof what passed are yet to be seen when Parliament meets. Theinjury which Goderich's conduct has done to the Government isincalculable, for it has brought them into such low estimationthat it is the general opinion they will not be able to retaintheir places, and there are a great variety of persons in bothHouses of Parliament who are disposed to withdraw from them thesupport which they did give to Canning's Government, and whichthey were previously inclined to give to this. As matters nowstand they do not themselves know upon whom they can count, norwho are their friends and who their foes. They are, however, tohave Lord Holland in the Cabinet, to help them on in the House ofLords, but it is very doubtful whether his appointment will notlead to the resignation of some of the Tory members of theGovernment and the secession of some of its Tory supporters. Nothing can exceed the alarm which they feel at the prospect ofthe approaching contest in Parliament, and thus, full of fearsand weakness, neither inspiring nor feeling confidence, thereseems a bad chance of their getting through the session. 

I have heard no more of the King and of his intentions, exceptthat he said he did not see why he was to be the only gentlemanin his dominions who was not to eat his Christmas dinner inquiet, and he was determined he would. Don Miguel has been withhim at the Cottage these two days. He has been received withgreat magnificence; they say he behaves well enough, but is veryshy. He went out stag-hunting in red coat and full huntingcostume, and rode over the fences like anybody else. 

M'Gregor told me the other day that not one of the physicians andsurgeons who attended the Duke of York through his long andpainful illness had ever received the smallest remuneration, although their names and services had been laid before the King. He told me in addition that during sixteen years that he attendedthe Duke and his whole family he never received one guinea by wayof fee or any payment whatever. 

[Page Head: MR. BROUGHAM AT PANSHANGER. ]

About three weeks ago I passed a few days at Panshanger, where Imet Brougham; he came from Saturday till Monday morning, and fromthe hour of his arrival to that of his departure he never ceasedtalking. The party was agreeable enough--Luttrell, Rogers, &c. --but it was comical to see how the latter was provoked atBrougham's engrossing all the talk, though he could not helplistening with pleasure. Brougham is certainly one of the mostremarkable men I ever met; to say nothing of what he is in theworld, his almost childish gaiety and animal spirits, his humourmixed with sarcasm, but not ill-natured, his wonderful information, and the facility with which he handles every subject, from themost grave and severe to the most trifling, displaying a mindfull of varied and extensive information and a memory which hassuffered nothing to escape it, I never saw any man whoseconversation impressed me with such an idea of his superiorityover all others. As Rogers said the morning of his departure, 'this morning Solon, Lycurgus, Demosthenes, Archimedes, Sir IsaacNewton, Lord Chesterfield, and a great many more went away in onepost chaise. ' He told us a great many details relating to theQueen's trial, and amongst other things (which I do not believe)his conviction that the Queen had never had any intrigue withBergami. He told us the whole story of his finding out thedeparture of Rastelli, which happened from a friend of hisaccidentally seeing Rastelli in the street, recognising him, andtelling Brougham. [23] Brougham told none of his colleagues, andat first did not believe the story, but by putting artfulquestions, and watching their effect, he found it was so, andthen out he came with it. There was a grand discussion whetherthey should not throw up their briefs and stop there, and he wasall for it, but was overruled and gave way. The person who wasmost anxious they should go on was Lord Grey, for he had got anotion that they could not any of them speak to evidence, and hewanted to make such a speech, which he fancied he could do verywell. Brougham said that as leading counsel for the Queen healways reserved to himself the power of acting as he thought fit, whatever the opinions of his colleagues might be, though theyalways consulted together and gave their sentiments upon everydebated point _seriatim_. He and Denman invariably thought alike. The Queen never could bear him, and was seldom civil to him. Whenshe had to answer the address of the House of Commons sheappealed to her counsel for their advice, which they declined togive, and she was furious, for she wanted to make them advise herto accept the propositions of the House, which would have beenvery unpopular, and then throw the odium of doing so on them. [24]He spoke very highly of Alderman Wood, who behaved very well, never annoyed or interfered with them, and seems to have beenaltogether a _brave homme_. 

 [23] [For the use made by Mr. Brougham of the accidental departure of Rastelli during the Queen's trial _vide supra_, p. 37, October 15, 1820. ]

 [24] [This was the address moved by Mr. Wilberforce on the 22nd of June, 1820 (_vide supra_, p. 30, June 23rd, 1820). Lord Brougham states in his 'Memoirs' that the Queen resolved to reject the advice of Parliament without consulting her lawyers. In one of Lord Brougham's letters written at the time he calls Wood 'the ass and alderman called _Thistle_-wood, ' and attributed to him the intrigue which brought the Queen to England. ]

If it had been possible to recollect all that Brougham said onthis and a hundred other subjects, it would be well worth writingdown, but such talk is much too evanescent, and I remember nomore. 

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF MR. BROUGHAM. ]

After all Brougham is only a living and very remarkable instanceof the inefficacy of the most splendid talents, unless they areaccompanied with other qualities, which scarcely admit ofdefinition, but which must serve the same purpose that ballastdoes for a ship. Brougham has prospered to a certain degree; hehas a great reputation and he makes a considerable income at thebar; but as an advocate he is left behind by men of far inferiorcapacity, whose names are hardly known beyond the precincts oftheir courts or the boundaries of their circuits. As a statesmanhe is not considered eligible for the highest offices, andhowever he may be admired or feared as an orator or debater, heneither commands respect by his character nor inspires confidenceby his genius, and in this contrast between his pretensions andhis situation more humble abilities may find room for consolationand cease to contemplate with envy his immense superiority. Tosuppose that his ambition can be satisfied in the possession ofnatural and acquired powers far greater than the majority ofmankind would be contrary to all experience. Such men considertheir acquirements as means for the attainment of greater ends, and the disappointments which they frequently meet with in thepursuit of their objects of ambition more than counteract all thefeelings of pride and satisfaction which conscious superiority iscalculated to inspire. The life of a politician is probably oneof deep mortification, for the race is not always to the swiftnor the battle to the strong, and few things can be more gallingthan to see men far inferior to ourselves enabled by fortune andcircumstances to attain what we toil after in vain, and to learnfrom our own experience how many things there are in this life ofgreater practical utility than splendid abilities and unweariedindustry. 

London, January 19th, 1828 {p. 120}

The Ministry is at last settled, and now for its history. Earlyin last week Goderich went down to the King and told him therewas such a quarrel in the Cabinet between Huskisson and Herriesabout the Finance Committee that both could not remain, and thatHuskisson would resign if he had not his own way. The King wasfurious at this new disturbance, and said he could not understandit; if Huskisson resigned, the Government was at an end. 'Go, ' heended, 'and send the Chancellor to me. ' The Chancellor [LordLyndhurst] went, and was desired to bring the Duke of Wellington. The Government was dissolved and the King desired the Duke toform a new one. All this was immediately known, and first it wasasked, 'What is the quarrel between Huskisson and Herries whichbroke up the old Cabinet?' The friends of each put about a story, one of which appeared in the 'Times, ' the other in the 'MorningChronicle. ' The question was Lord Althorp's appointment aschairman of the Finance Committee. Huskisson's story is this:--InNovember Tierney went to Goderich and proposed Althorp as a goodman to be in the chair of that Committee. Goderich assented, andsaid, 'But you had better speak to Huskisson about it, as it is aHouse of Commons matter. ' He did so, and Huskisson approved ofit. A few days after Tierney called on Huskisson and foundHerries with him, when they discussed the matter generally, aswell as the particular appointment of Althorp, and Herries madeno objection, and, as they thought, agreed with them; but shortlyafter Herries went to Goderich, complained that this matter hadbeen settled without his knowledge and concurrence, that it was aslight put upon him, and said he would not agree to Althorp'snomination, nor stay in office if it were persisted in. 

[Page Head: HOSTILITY OF HERRIES. ]

This is one story, told me by Sefton, who had it (I am sure) fromBrougham, and _verbatim_ the same by Robarts, who had it (he toldme himself) from Tierney. Herries' story only differs in this: itomits the interview between the three Ministers, and declares thematter was never mentioned to him at all till they had decided onit, when it was shown him as a plan which was not to bediscussed, but which he was at once to assent to. It appearsdifficult to know which to believe, and at first my impressionwas that they had probably not treated Herries with as muchconsideration as he was entitled to as Finance Minister, and thathe had been prone to take offence and touchy from old recollections, which were probably not effaced. But a circumstance I heardafterwards convinced me that Herries has been all along full ofill-will towards his colleagues, and not a little desirous ofbreaking up the Ministry. When he found, too, with whatdifficulties they would have to contend in Parliament and theweakness of Goderich, he probably thought they would never beable to go on, and was not sorry to find an opportunity ofaccelerating their dissolution. The circumstance is this:--In theold business of his appointment to the Chancellorship of theExchequer, when he thought he was _not_ to be appointed, he wroteto Arbuthnot telling him how ill he had been treated, andpromising to send him all the correspondence on the subject. Subsequently he _was_ appointed, when he wrote again to A. , saying that as it was settled and he was appointed, he did notthink it would be right to send him the correspondence, which hewas sure he would understand; that there he was, and he should dohis best to act cordially with his new colleagues; but hefinished, 'I shall hail the day which brings all of you backagain. ' Such an expression to a man who was the bitterest enemyof the Government of which he was a member did not evince muchcordiality towards his colleagues. 

[Page Head: MR. HUSKISSON'S POSITION. ]

The first thing to be done by the Duke was to negotiate withHuskisson. He sent forthwith for his own friends, Peel, LordBathurst, and Melville, and for many days the great question waswhether Huskisson would join or not, the Whigs of course mostanxious he should refuse, the new Government ready to make greatconcessions to tempt him to join them. He has acceded, however, but much to the disgust of many of his friends, some of whomthink he has behaved shabbily in abandoning the Whigs, whosupported him, and who had supported Canning at his utmost need. Some think he was pledged never to act with the men who theyconsider to have behaved so ill to Canning, and some think he hascompromised his dignity and independence by not insisting onhigher terms, particularly the lead in the House of Commons. Atpresent the exact terms of his bargain are not known, and withoutbeing acquainted with all that has passed _de part et d'autre_ itis impossible to form a judgment as to the wisdom or the fairnessof his conduct. Those who think he would have acted a wiser partand have made himself of greater importance by heading a thirdparty in the House of Commons and keeping aloof, judge toohastily. He would have been followed by all those who callthemselves Canning's personal friends, and probably by aconsiderable body of neutrals, who would not have been disposedto support a Tory Government, and still less to join a WhigOpposition. But however weak the Ministry (without Huskisson)might have appeared at first sight in the House of Commons, itwould very possibly have proved stronger than was imagined. Strength and weakness are relative terms, and it remained to beseen what sort of power would have been brought against it, andto what attacks the Government would have exposed itself. The oldTory Ministry, which was voted out for incapacity by the House ofCommons, was the strongest and longest that we have seen for manyyears, though opposed by all the talent and power of anOpposition more formidable than this can be. To be sure it mustalways be remembered that they floated through their difficultieson the tide of the Duke of Wellington's victories. Of all theparty who would have ranged themselves under Huskisson, onlyCanning's friends, a select few, would have considered themselvesbound to him, and the rest, if they found the Government strongand likely to last, would probably have dropped off and graduallyjoined it. In that case Huskisson would never have been able totreat as an independent power, and though they might have beenglad to take him into the Administration, he could not have madehis own terms. I do not think he ever could have looked tooverturning the Tory Government and coming in with the whole bodyof the Whigs, for he has no natural partiality (any more thanCanning had) for that party, and he is fully aware how odiousthey are to the King and how unpopular in the country, which isalways more inclined to the Tories than to them. If the Torieshave agreed to those measures (except the Catholic question, forthat is to remain on its old footing) which he deems necessary, and of which he is the author--that is, of Free Trade, &c. --hewould probably rather act with them than with the Whigs; and injoining Government he is liable to no reproach but that of havingshaken off his Whig colleagues too easily. But it remains to beproved whether they could have gone on, and at all events LordsLansdowne and Carlisle might have remained in office if theypleased, though certainly it was not probable that they would doso. The part of the transaction which will appear extraordinaryis, that the Government having been broken up by a quarrelbetween Huskisson and Herries, the opposite party come in andboth these Ministers remain with them. In private life thetransaction would look very like a fraud, and be open to greatsuspicion. It would appear as if they had got up a sham quarrelin order to get out their colleagues and stay in themselves withthe Tories. This, however, I believe not to have been the case, at least as far as Huskisson is concerned, though perhaps Herriesmay not be altogether so clear. 

 CHAPTER IV. 

The Duke of Wellington's Administration--Huskisson's Speech-- Irritation of Mr. Canning's Friends--Tom Duncombe's Maiden Speech--Mr. Huskisson resigns and the Canningites quit the Government--Princess Lieven Hostile to the Duke--The Catholic Question--Jockey Club Dinner at St. James's--Lord Lyndhurst-- Sir Robert Adair--Fox and Burke--Fox and Pitt--The Lord High Admiral dismissed by the King--Dawson's Speech on Catholic Emancipation--The King's Health--His Pages--State of Ireland-- Marquis of Anglesey--O'Connell--His Influence in Ireland--Lord Belmore Governor of Jamaica--The Duke's Letter to Dr. Curtis-- Recall of Lord Anglesey from Ireland--Causes of this Event-- Excitement of the King on the Catholic Question--His Aversion to Sir William Knighton--Character of George IV. --Denman's Silk Gown--Pension to Lady Westmeath--Duke of Wellington on Russia-- The Reis-Effendi--Duke of Northumberland goes to Ireland--Privy Council Register--State Paper Office--The Gunpowder Plot-- Catholic Emancipation--Navarino. 

[Page Head: IRRITATION OF THE WHIGS. ]

January 28th, 1828 {p. 124}

Until the Duke of Wellington's commission as First Lord of theTreasury appeared many people doubted that he would take theoffice. [1] The Ordnance was offered to Lord Rosslyn, who refusedit, and then given to Lord Beresford, but without a seat in theCabinet (as Lord Bathurst told me) by his own particular desire. Some days have now elapsed, and time has been afforded for theexpression of popular feeling and opinion on the late changes. Lady Canning and many of Canning's friends are very muchdissatisfied with Huskisson, and think he deserted his principlesand outraged the memory of Canning. Lady C. Particularly is muchhurt at what has passed. She has not seen Huskisson, but he isaware of her sentiments, though he says she has so high anopinion of him that she is sure he is acting for what he believesto be the best. The majority of Canning's friends have adhered tothe Government. The great body of the Whigs who belonged to orsupported the late Government are indignant and violent, particularly with Huskisson, who they think has betrayed them. Aninterview has taken place between Huskisson and Lord Lansdowne, in which the former explained his conduct, and (as far as I canlearn) the latter said but little, neither condemning norapproving. But the great body of the party are resolved to opposethe new Government in every way, though without attempting toform a party, which they do not think feasible in their presentcondition. They intend a desultory and harassing warfare, particularly attacking Huskisson upon Liberal measures, to whichhe stands pledged, but which they think he will now be preventedby his colleagues from carrying into effect. The seceding Whigsare triumphant, because they assert that what has happened is afull justification of their conduct. They forget, however, thatall this is mainly attributable to them and to Canning's death, which occurred in the interim. On the other hand the old Toriesare not altogether satisfied, and, though rejoiced at therestoration of the party, cannot bear to see Huskisson and hisfriends members of the Government from abhorrence of Canning andall Liberal principles. However, the principal men have sent intheir adhesions in very civil letters to the Duke. 

 [1] [The Duke of Wellington's Administration was at first constituted as follows:-- Duke of Wellington, First Lord of the Treasury. Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor. Earl Bathurst, Lord President of the Council. Earl of Ellenborough, Lord Privy Seal. Mr. Peel, Home Secretary. Lord Dudley, Foreign Secretary. Mr. Huskisson, Colonial Secretary. Earl of Aberdeen, Duchy of Lancaster. Mr. Goulburn, Chancellor of the Exchequer. Mr. Charles Grant, President of the Board of Trade. Mr. Herries, Master of the Mint. Viscount Melville, President of the India Board. Lord Dudley, Mr. Huskisson, Mr. Grant, and Lord Palmerston (Secretary at War, not in the Cabinet) were the four Canningite members who resigned in May following. They were replaced by Lord Aberdeen, Sir George Murray, Mr. Vesey Fitzgerald, and Sir Henry Hardinge respectively. ]

All the Ministers (old and new) were at Windsor the other day;but it was contrived that they should not meet, the _ins_ beingin one room and Lansdowne and Carlisle in another, and it wasafterwards discovered that in a third room by himself wasGoderich. This Lord Sefton told me, and he had it from LordLansdowne, who had it from the King and confirmed by LordConyngham. His Majesty was remarkably civil to Lords Lansdowneand Carlisle. The King had a scene with the Duke of Devonshire, whom he could not persuade to stay in his place, though he triedhard. Scarlett has resigned the Attorney-Generalship, but notvery willingly. He wrote to Milton and asked his advice. Miltonadvised him to resign, and so he did. One thing that has angeredthe Tories is the Duke's not having consulted Lord Eldon, noroffered him any place; and it seems he is extremely mortified, for though he did not want the seals again, he would have beenvery glad to take office as President of the Council. 

[Page Head: IRRITATION OF THE WHIGS. ]

February 25th, 1828 {p. 126}

There is one advantage in writing at intervals of some timeinstead of keeping a regular diary; I can take a more bird's-eyeview of events, and avoid falling into many errors, which itwould be afterwards necessary to correct. I went to Newmarket andstayed there three weeks for my health. While I was thereHuskisson made his speech at Liverpool. [2] The Tories werefurious, and in the House of Lords the Duke of Wellingtoncontradicted it, or rather said he did not believe it wasfaithfully reported, for all that he was reported to have saidabout _the guarantee_ was untrue. I returned to town in time forthe House of Commons, and found the greatest excitement, curiosity, and violence generally prevailing. As to Huskisson, hehad offended the Tories, the Whigs, and Lady Canning, andeverybody condemned him. Parties were split to pieces, there wasno Opposition, and no man could tell what were the politics ofhis neighbour, scarcely what his own. Lady Canning was in a stateof great rage and resentment, and had inspired George Bentinckwith the same sentiments. Clanricarde had been sent down by herto the House of Lords furnished with extracts of Canning'sletters to throw in the teeth of his old friends and his oldenemies, and she threatened fresh disclosures and fresh documentswhich were to confound all whom she deemed worthy of herindignation. A very angry colloquy took place at a dinner atWarrender's between Lord Seaford and George Bentinck, in whichthe latter violently attacked Mr. Canning's friends for joiningthe present Government, and quoted Huskisson's declaration thathe would never act with the men who had abandoned him. LordSeaford grew angry, and asked George what he knew of thatdeclaration and what his authority was for quoting it. To whichGeorge replied that he had it from himself--from Lord Seaford atParis. This confounded the noble Lord, and altogether there was apretty violent altercation, which greatly annoyed both him andHoward, who was present, and was regretted by all their commonfriends. Two days after this came on the debate in the House ofCommons and the explanations of Huskisson and Herries. Theirspeeches were both satisfactory enough till Tierney spoke, whoentirely knocked over their cases, or at least that of Herries, for against Huskisson he proved nothing, except that he mightperhaps have been more communicative, though I think thisreproach applies more to Lord Goderich than to him. Theimpression left with regard to Herries was as unfavourable aspossible. 

 [2] [The speech made by Mr. Huskisson on his re-election at Liverpool on the 5th of February, 1828, is printed in vol. Iii. Of his 'Collected Speeches, ' p. 673. It contains a full account of these transactions. The passage which gave so much offence to the Tories was that 'if the Government was such as satisfied the view I took of the interests of the country, and provided such arrangements were made in its construction _as afforded a guarantee_ that the principle I approved should not be departed from, I was not precluded from joining it;' and again, 'The presence in office of such men as Lord Dudley, Lord Palmerston, Mr. Grant, and Mr. Lamb is the most satisfactory of all guarantees that the general principles of our foreign and commercial system would remain unchanged, and that Ireland would be governed with the strictest impartiality in respect to the Catholic question. ' These declarations of Mr. Huskisson had a material effect on the occurrences which not long afterwards took place. ]

[Page Head: TOM DUNCOMBE'S MAIDEN SPEECH. ]

The great event of the night was Duncombe's[3] speech, which wasdelivered with perfect self-possession and composure, but in soridiculous a manner that everybody laughed at him, although theywere amused with his impudence and at the style and objects ofhis attack. However, the next day it was discovered that hehad performed a great exploit; he was loudly applauded andcongratulated on all sides, and made into the hero of the day. His fame was infinitely increased on a subsequent night, whenHerries again came before the House and when Tommy fired anothershot at him. The newspapers were full of his praises. The Whigscalled at his door and eagerly sought his acquaintance. Those wholove fun and personality cheered him on with loud applause, andhe now fancies himself the greatest man going, and is ready toget up and abuse anybody on the Treasury bench. To me, who knewall the secret strings that moved this puppet, nothing can bemore amusing. 

 [3] [Thomas Slingsby Duncombe, nephew of the first Lord Feversham distinguished for his Radical opinions, M. P. For Finsbury after the Reform Bill. He sat at this time for Hertford; and the incident related in the text appears to have been his _début_ in political life. ]

The history of Tom Duncombe and his speech is instructive as wellas amusing, for it is a curious proof of the facility with whichthe world may be deceived, and of the prodigious effect which maybe produced by the smallest means, if they are aided by somefortuitous circumstances and happily applied. Tommy came to Henryde Ros and told him that his constituents at Hertford were veryanxious he should make a speech, but that he did not know what tosay, and begged Henry to supply him with the necessary materials. He advised him to strike out something new, and having receivedhis assurance that he should be able to recollect anything thathe learned by heart, and that he was not afraid of his couragefailing, Henry composed for him the speech which Duncombedelivered. But knowing the slender capacity of his man, he wasnot satisfied with placing the speech in his hands, but adoptedevery precaution which his ingenuity suggested to avert thedanger of his breaking down. He made him learn the speech byheart, and then made him think it over again and put it intolanguage of his own, justly fearing that if he should forget anyof the more polished periods of the original it would appearsadly botched by his own interpolations. He then instructed himlargely as to how and when he was to bring it in, supplying himwith various commonplace phrases to be used as connecting links, and by the help of which he might be enabled to fasten upon someof the preceding speeches. I saw Henry de Ros the day before thedebate, when he told me what he was doing, and asked me tosuggest anything that occurred upon the subject, and at the sametime repeated to me the speech with which he had armed his hero. I hinted my apprehensions that he would fail in the delivery, butthough he was not without some alarm, he expressed (as itafterwards appeared a well-grounded) confidence in Duncombe'sextraordinary nerve and intrepidity. 

His speech on the second night was got up precisely in the samemanner, and although it appeared to arise out of the debate andof those which preceded it, the matter had been all crammed intohim by his invisible Mentor. The amusement to him and to me(especially at the honours that have been thickly poured upon himand the noise which he has made in the world) is indescribablypungent. 

Thus Duncombe and his speech have made what is called a greatsensation, and he has the reputation (no matter whether justly ornot) of having thrown the enemy's camp into greater confusion bythe boldness of his language than anybody has ever done, becausenobody has ever before dared to mention those whom he draggedforward. To the ignorant majority of the world he appears a manof great promise, of boldness, quickness, and decision, and theuproar that is made about him cannot fail to impress others aswell as himself with a high notion of his consequence. 

Knighton is gone abroad, I have very little doubt, in consequenceof what passed, and as nobody enquires very minutely into thereal causes of things where they get apparent ones with ease, itis said and believed at once that Duncombe is the man who hasdriven him out, and that he has given the first blow to thatsecret influence which has only been obscurely hinted at beforeand never openly attacked. These are great and important matters, far exceeding any consequences which the authors of the speechanticipated from its delivery at the time. And what are theagents who have produced such an effect? A man of ruined fortuneand doubtful character, whose life has been spent on therace-course, at the gaming-table, and in the green-room, oflimited capacity, exceedingly ignorant, and without any stockbut his impudence to trade on, only speaking to serve anelectioneering purpose, and crammed by another man with everythought and every word that he uttered. 

[Page Head: DISPUTES IN THE CABINET. ]

June 12th, 1828 {p. 130}

We have now got a Tory Government, and all that remained ofCanning's party are gone. [4] The case of the Duke of Wellingtonand Huskisson is before the world, but nobody judges fairly. Motives are attributed to both parties which had no existence, and the truth is hardly ever told at first, though it generallyoozes out by degrees. After the explanations in February theGovernment went on to all appearance very well, but there lurkedunder this semblance of harmony some seeds of jealousy anddistrust, not I believe so much in the mind of the Duke as inthose of his Tory colleagues, and the Canningites on their sidecertainly felt no cordiality even towards the Duke himself. Theysaid that he never could nor would understand anything; that hesaid a thing one day and forgot it the next, and instead of thatclearness of intellect for which he had credit, nothing could bemore puzzled and confused than he was; that nothing could absolvehim from the suspicion of duplicity and insincerity but theconviction that his ambiguous conduct on various occasions arosefrom a confusion of ideas. On the other hand, Lord Bathurst toldmy father that he thought they (Huskisson and his friends) weretoo much disposed to act together as a party in the Cabinet; andit is clear that the Duke thought so too, and that this feelingand the resentment it engendered in his mind are the real reasonsof his conduct on the late occasion. 

 [4] [Bills had been brought into Parliament for the disfranchisement of the boroughs of Penryn and East Retford, and the transfer of those seats to Manchester and Birmingham. On the East Retford case, which came before the House of Commons on the 19th of May, Mr. Huskisson felt bound in honour to support the measure, and voted against his colleagues. On his return home after the debate he wrote a hasty letter to the Duke of Wellington, in which he said that he 'owed it to the Duke and to Mr. Peel to lose no time in affording them an opportunity of placing his office in other hands. ' The Duke regarding this as a formal act of resignation, laid it before the King and filled up the appointment. The correspondence is published in the Duke of Wellington's 'Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. Iv. P. 449. The resignation of Lord Palmerston, Charles Grant, and Lord Dudley followed. The details of this transaction are sufficiently alluded to in the text. ]

There had been a dispute in the Cabinet about the Corn Bill, which occasioned the discussion of it to be put off for a fewdays at the time, and upon that occasion Grant resigned hisoffice. The matter was made up and he stayed. But when uponthe East Retford affair Huskisson resigned, and in such anextraordinary manner, the Duke felt that there was a dispositionto embarrass him by these perpetual tenders of resignation, whichhe believed they thought he would not venture to accept. Uponreceiving Huskisson's letter he went to Lord Bathurst andconsulted him, and Lord Bathurst advised him to take him at hisword. Everybody looks for some cause which does not appear forimportant events, and people with difficulty admit of very simplesolutions and very trifling causes, though such are notunfrequently the real ones. I believe that Huskisson had nointention of embarrassing the Duke and none of resigning; but fora cool and sensible man his conduct is most extraordinary, for heacted with the precipitation of a schoolboy and showed a completewant of all those qualities of prudence and calm deliberation forwhich he has the greatest credit. But though this breach mighthave been avoided, from the sentiments which have been expressedby both parties, it is evident other differences would havearisen which must have dissolved the Government before long. After putting aside the violent opinions on both sides, theconclusion is that Huskisson acted very hastily and imprudently, and that his letter (say what he will) was a complete resignation, and that the Duke had a right so to consider it; that in theDuke's conduct there appeared a want of courtesy and an anxietyto get rid of him which it would have been more fair to avow anddefend than to deny; that on both sides there was a mixture ofobstinacy and angry feeling, and a disposition to treat thequestion rather as a personal matter than one in which the publicinterests were deeply concerned. But the charge which is made onone side that Huskisson wanted to embarrass the Duke's Governmentand enhance his own importance, and that on the other of theDuke's insincerity, are both unfounded. 

Some circumstances, however, contributed to place the Duke'sconduct in an unfavourable point of view. These were theextravagant and unconcealed joy of the High Tories and of hisimmediate friends, and his attending at the same time the Pittdinner and sitting there while Lord Eldon gave his famous 'onecheer more' for Protestant ascendency. That he treated Huskissonwith some degree of harshness there is no doubt, but he wasangry, and not without reason; the former brought it all uponhimself. During the debate upon East Retford, when Huskisson wascalled upon by Sandon to redeem his pledge, he told Peel that hecould not help himself, and must vote against him; but he beggedhim to put off the question till the following week, that itmight be considered again. This Peel refused; had he acceded, allthis would not have taken place. 

When the King saw Huskisson he was extremely gracious to him, expressed the utmost regret at losing him, and said that he hadwished not to see him at first, that he might avoid receiving hisresignation, and in hopes that the matter would have beenarranged. [5] However, the other party say that the King is veryglad to have got rid of him and his party. 

 [5] [Huskisson solicited an audience, which his Majesty refused for some days to grant: he would not see him until he had written again to the Duke of Wellington. ]

In the middle of all this Madame de Lieven is supposed to haveacted with great impertinence if not imprudence, and to have madeuse of the access she has to the King to say all sorts of thingsagainst the Duke and the present Government. Her dislike to theDuke has been increasing ever since that cessation of intimacywhich was caused by Canning's accession to power, when shetreated him very uncivilly in order to pay court to Canning. Esterhazy told me last night that although her position here wasnow greatly changed, and that it was far from being so agreeableas it was, he could not accuse her of imprudence in having takenthe part she had done, because he thought that it had answeredvery well, and that the objects of her Court had been in greatmeasure accomplished through her means. 

[Page Head: THE CATHOLIC QUESTION. ]

June 18th, 1828

The Duke of Wellington's speech on the Catholic question isconsidered by many to have been so moderate as to indicate adisposition on his part to concede emancipation, and bets havebeen laid that Catholics will sit in Parliament next year. Manymen are resolved to see it in this light who are anxious to joinhis Government, and whose scruples with regard to that questionare removed by such an interpretation of his speech. I do notbelieve he means to do anything until he is compelled to it, which if he remains in office he will be; for the success of theCatholic question depends neither on Whigs nor Tories, the formerof whom have not the power and the latter not the inclination tocarry it. The march of time and the state of Ireland will effectit in spite of everything, and its slow but continual advance canneither be retarded by its enemies nor accelerated by itsfriends. In the meantime men affect to consider his expressionsas of importance enough to influence their conduct in taking orrefusing office. Frankland Lewis, [6] who refused the IrishSecretaryship, said that after that speech he regretted hisrefusal and would be glad to take it, and now he wants to jointhe Government again. Certainly at this moment the Tories aretriumphant, and so far from the Duke's Government having anydifficulty in standing, there does not appear to be a dispositionin any quarter to oppose it. Not only in Parliament there is noOpposition, but the press is veering round and treating him withgreat civility. The Government seem well disposed to follow upthe Liberal policy, to which they have been suspected of beingadverse, and have already declared that they do not intend todeviate either in their foreign or domestic policy from theprinciples on which the Government was understood to act previousto the separation. Arbuthnot told my father yesterday that theyall regret now having resigned in 1827, and Huskisson owned to A. That he had acted with unfortunate precipitancy. 

 [6] [Right Hon. T. Frankland Lewis, a member of the Grenville and Canning section of the Tory party; made a baronet by Sir Robert Peel; the father of the Right Hon. Sir George Cornewall Lewis. ]

June 29th, 1828 {p. 134}

I dined yesterday with the King at St. James's--his Jockey Clubdinner. There were about thirty people, several not being invitedwhom he did not fancy. The Duke of Leeds told me a much greaterlist had been made out, but he had scratched several out of it. We assembled in the Throne Room, and found him already there, looking very well and walking about. He soon, however, sat down, and desired everybody else to do so. Nobody spoke, and he laughedand said, 'This is more like a Quaker than a Jockey Clubmeeting. ' We soon went to dinner, which was in the Great SupperRoom and very magnificent. He sat in the middle, with the Dukesof Richmond and Grafton on each side of him. I sat opposite tohim, and he was particularly gracious to me, talking to me acrossthe table and recommending all the good things; he made me (aftereating a quantity of turtle) eat a dish of crawfish soup, till Ithought I should have burst. After dinner the Duke of Leeds, whosat at the head of the table, gave 'The King. ' We all stood up, when his Majesty thanked us, and said he hoped this would be thefirst of annual meetings of the sort to take place, there orelsewhere under his roof. He then ordered paper, pens, &c. , andthey began making matches and stakes; the most perfect ease wasestablished, just as much as if we had been dining with the Dukeof York, and he seemed delighted. He made one or two littlespeeches, one recommending that a stop should be put to theexportation of horses. He twice gave 'The Turf, ' and at the endthe Duke of Richmond asked his leave to give a toast, and againgave 'The King. ' He thanked all the gentlemen, and said thatthere was no man who had the interests of the turf more at heartthan himself, that he was delighted at having this party, andthat the oftener they met the better, and he only wanted to haveit pointed out to him how he could promote the pleasure andamusement of the turf, and he was ready to do anything in hispower. He got up at half-past twelve and wished us good night. Nothing could go off better, and Mount Charles told me he wassure he was delighted. 

[Page Head: LORD LYNDHURST AND THE GREAT SEAL. ]

I dined with the Chancellor [Lord Lyndhurst] three days ago; hetalked to me a great deal about his acceptance of the Great Sealand of the speculation it was. He was Master of the Rolls with£7, 000 a year for life when it was offered to him; he debatedwhether it was worth while to give this up to be Chancellor forperhaps only one year, with a peerage and the pension. He talkedthe matter over with his wife, and they agreed that if it onlylasted one year (which he evidently thought probable) it wasworth while, besides the contingency of a long Chancellorship. Heasked me if the Government was popular and reckoned strong. Itold him it was apparently popular and reckoned strong, becausethere was no Opposition and little chance of any. I said thathowever hazardous his speculation might have been, it had turnedout well, for he had a good chance of being Chancellor as long ashis predecessor had been, there being so few candidates for theoffice. He said this was true, and then he talked of his Court, and said it was impossible for one man to do the business of it. In talking of the speculation he had made, political opinions andpolitical consistency seemed never to occur to him, and heconsidered the whole matter in a light so business-like andprofessional as to be quite amusing. He talked of the Duke, saidhe was a good man to do business with, quick and intelligent, and'how well he managed that little correspondence with Huskisson, 'which was droll enough, for Huskisson dined there and was in theroom. 

[Page Head: SIR ROBERT ADAIR'S ANECDOTES. ]

August 6th, 1828 {p. 136}

About three weeks ago I went to Windsor to a Council. The Kinghad been very ill for a day or two, but was recovered. RobAdair[7] was sworn in Privy Councillor, and he remained in theroom and heard the speech, which he ought not to have done. TheDuke attacked me afterwards (in joke) for letting him stay; but Itold him it was no business of mine, and his neighbour ought tohave told him to go. That neighbour, however, was VeseyFitzgerald, who said it was the first time he had attended aCouncil, and he could not begin by turning another man out. Ibrought Adair back to town, and he told me a great many thingsabout Burke, and Fox, and Fitzpatrick, and all the eminent men ofthat time with whom he lived when he was young. He said what Ihave often heard before, that Fitzpatrick was the most agreeableof them all, but Hare the most brilliant. Burke's conversationwas delightful, so luminous and instructive. He was verypassionate, and Adair said that the first time he ever saw him heunluckily asked him some question about the wild parts ofIreland, when Burke broke out, 'You are a fool and a blockhead;there are no wild parts in Ireland. ' He was extremely terrified, but afterwards Burke was very civil to him, and he knew him verywell. 

 [7] [Right Hon. Sir Robert Adair, the friend of Fox, formerly ambassador at Constantinople and Vienna. It was he whom Canning once called 'Bobadare-a-dool-fowla. ']

He told me a great deal about the quarrel between Fox and Burke. Fox never ceased to entertain a regard for Burke, and at no timewould suffer him to be abused in his presence. There was anattempt made to bring about a reconciliation, and a meeting forthat purpose took place of all the leading men at BurlingtonHouse. Burke was on the point of yielding when his son suddenlymade his appearance unbidden, and on being told what was going onsaid, 'My father shall be no party to such a compromise, ' tookBurke aside and persuaded him to reject the overtures. Thatson Adair described as the most disagreeable, violent, andwrong-headed of men, but the idol of his father, who used to saythat he united all his own talents and acquirements with those ofFox and everybody else. After the death of Richard Burke, Fox andBurke met behind the throne of the House of Lords one day, whenFox went up to Burke and put out both his hands to him. Burke wasalmost surprised into meeting this cordiality in the same spirit, but the momentary impulse passed away, and he doggedly droppedhis hands and left the House. 

Adair told me that Lord Holland has written very copious memoirsof his own time, and particularly characters of all the eminentmen who have died, in the delineation of which he excels. Soonafter Pitt's resignation in 1801 there was an attempt made toeffect a junction between Pitt and Fox, to which they wereneither of them averse. The negotiation was, however, entrustedto subordinate agents, and Adair said that he had alwaysregretted that they had not met, for if they had he thought thematter would have been arranged. As it was the design wasthwarted by the King through the intervention (I think he said)of Lord Loughborough. 

There was another Council about a week ago. On these occasionsthe King always whispers to me something or other about hisracehorses or something about myself, and I am at this moment inhigh favour. We had Howley and Bloomfield[8] at this Council, with the latter of whom I made acquaintance, to the greatamusement of the Duke. He laughed at seeing me conversing withthis bishop. 

 [8] [The Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of London. ]

I hear from Frederick Lamb that the Duke is greatly alarmed aboutIreland. By-the-by he, Frederick, [9] is come back from Portugal, thinking that our Government have acted very ill and veryfoolishly, first encouraging and then abandoning these wretchedConstitutionalists to their fate, and he is no particular friendto Liberalism. 

 [9] [Sir Frederick Lamb, afterwards created Lord Beauvale, and who became Lord Melbourne on the death of his brother William. ]

August 14th, 1828 {p. 137}

Just returned from Goodwood, where I went on the 11th, and heardon arriving that the Lord High Admiral had resigned, but noparticulars. It is a very good thing at all events. 

August 16th, 1828 {p. 138}

The Lord High Admiral was turned out. [10] The Duke told him thathe must go, but that he might resign as if of his own accord. TheDuke is all-powerful. It is strongly reported that Peel willresign, that the Duke means to concede the Catholic question andto negotiate a _concordat_ with the Pope. Many people think LordGrey will join the Government, and that he will be First Lord ofthe Admiralty. The Duke gave his brother Dr. Bloomfield's livingwithout any solicitation. Esterhazy told me to-night thatPalmella entertains from twenty to thirty of his countrymen atdinner every day, of whom there are several hundred in London, ofthe best families, totally destitute. All Palmella's property issequestrated, but he receives the appointment of PortugueseMinister from the Brazilian Government. 

 [10] [The King's letter dismissing the Duke of Clarence from the office of Lord High Admiral was dated the 11th of August, 1828. It is published in the Duke of Wellington's 'Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. Iv. P. 595. ]

[Page Head: DAWSON'S SPEECH AT DERRY. ]

August 22nd, 1828 {p. 138}

Went to Stoke on the 19th and came back yesterday. There were theDowager Lady Salisbury, Duchess of Newcastle, Worcester and LadyW. Russell, Giles, Billy Churchill. On the 18th Dawson'sspeech[11] at Derry reached us, and I never remember anyoccurrence which excited greater surprise. The general impressionwas that he made the speech, with the Duke's knowledge andconcurrence, which I never believed. I thought from what he saidto me just before he went to Ireland that he had changed his ownopinion, and now many people say they knew this; but I was littleprepared to hear of his making such a speech at such a place asDerry, and on such an occasion as a 'Prentice Boy' commemoration. The rage and fury of the Orangemen there and of the Orange presshere are boundless, and the violence and scurrility of theirabuse are the more absurd because Dawson only described inglowing colours, and certainly without reserve, the actual stateof Ireland, but did not argue the question at all further thanleaving on his hearers the inevitable inference that he thoughtthe time for granting emancipation was come. The truth is thatthe conversion of one of the most violent anti-Catholics muststrike everybody as a strong argument in favour of the measure, and they know not by how many and by whom his example may befollowed. The Orangemen are moving heaven and earth to createdisturbances, and their impotent fury shows how low their causeis sunk. The Catholics, on the contrary, are temperate and calm, from confidence in their strength and the progressive advance oftheir course. But although I think the Catholics are now in aposition which renders their ultimate success certain, I am veryfar from participating in the sanguine expectations of those whothink the Duke of Wellington is convinced that the question mustbe settled directly, and that he will carry it through in theensuing session. In the first place I see clearly that theGovernment are extremely annoyed at Dawson's speech. I sawGoulburn to-day, and though he did not say much, what he did saywas enough to satisfy me of this: 'he hoped that it had beenincorrectly reported. ' Dawson has written to the Duke, [12] andthe letter was sent to him to-day. But what has put me in despairabout it is a letter of the Duke's which Drummond read to meto-day addressed, I do not know to whom, but upon that subject. It began, 'My dear sir, ' and after other matter proceeded nearlyas follows:--'This subject has been more discussed and morepamphlets have been written upon it in the course of the lasttwenty-five years than any other that I can remember. No twopeople are agreed upon what ought to be done, and yet theGovernment is expected at once to settle the question. ' This isthe old argument, as if after thirty years' discussion in everyshape it was not time to settle the question. As if those whoundertake to govern the country were not the men who are bound tofind the means of settling it and allaying the irritation itcauses. And as if, instead of no two persons being agreed uponthe subject, all the ablest and wisest men in the country werenot cordially agreed that complete emancipation is the onlyremedy for the evils that exist, and that they are opposed by themost despicable faction which ever existed, animated by the mostbase and sordid motives. This letter was read to me as conveyingthe Duke's opinions, which his secretary thought were very soundand sensible, and which I think evinced a degree of anility quitepitiable, and proves how little there is to expect from anyliberality and good sense on his part. 

 [11] [Mr. Peel's confidential letter to the Duke of Wellington, stating his reluctant conviction that it was indispensably necessary for the Government to change its policy on the Catholic question, was written on the 11th of August, 1828. The letter is published in Sir Robert Peel's 'Posthumous Memoirs, ' vol. I, p. 189. It is a remarkable circumstance that Mr. Dawson's speech at Derry was made _just one week afterwards_; but there is no evidence that he knew of the change in his brother-in-law's opinion. See for further details as to the effect of Dawson's speech _infra_. ]

 [12] [This letter is published in the Duke of Wellington's 'Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. Iv. P. 633. The Duke said, 'Dawson's speech is too bad. Surely a man who does such things ought to be put in a strait waistcoat. ' _Ibid. _ p. 636. ]

[Page Head: DISMISSAL OF THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. ]

I do not yet know the whole truth of the Lord High Admiral'sresignation, but it seems that it is not yet certain. Negotiationson the subject are still going on. I believe he quarrelled withhis council, particularly Cockburn, and that Government took partwith Cockburn. The Duke of Clarence wants to promote deservingofficers, but they oppose it on account of the expense, and theyfind in everything great difficulty in keeping him in order. Hisresignation will be very unpopular in the navy, for his system ofpromotion was more liberal and impartial than that of hispredecessor, whose administration was one perpetual job, and whomade the patronage of the Admiralty instrumental to governingScotland. Hitherto the appointments of Government have not beenthe most judicious--Lord Belmore to Jamaica, because he is aLord, and a very dull one; Lord Strangford to the Brazils, thoughthe Duke knows as well as anybody that he cannot be trusted, andwas recalled by Canning because he said and did all sorts ofthings at Constantinople for which he had no authority, and theyfound that no reliance whatever was to be placed in him. LordStuart de Rothesay, too, is sent back to Paris, though personallyobnoxious to the King and universally disliked. 

Stoke, August 25th, 1828 {p. 141}

Went to Windsor to-day for a Council and came on here after it. There were the Chancellor, Peel, Fitzgerald, Ellenborough, Sir G. Murray, the Archbishop, and Bishop of London, who came to dohomage. The King gave the Chancellor a long audience, and anotherto Peel, probably to talk over Dawson's speech and Orangepolitics. After the Council the King called me and talked to meabout racehorses, which he cares more about than the welfare ofIreland or the peace of Europe. We walked over the Castle, whichis nearly finished, but too gaudy. The King told me he would goto Egham races to-morrow. I talked to Fitzgerald about Dawson'sspeech. He said he believed Dawson had never told the Duke orPeel what he meant to do, that he thought he was very bold andimprudent. However, he was glad of it, as it must assist thecause, and the moral effect in Ireland would be produced beforethe Duke's sentiments could be known. Lord Mount Charles told methe day before yesterday that the reason the Duke of Clarence hadresigned was, that he had in many instances exceeded his powers, which had produced remonstrances from the Duke of Wellington, whereupon the Duke of Clarence tendered his resignation, and theDuke immediately carried it to the King without asking him tostay. [13] Afterwards there were some negotiations, when the Dukeof Clarence refused to stay if Cockburn did. They would not, however, part with Cockburn, but subsequently the Duke shookhands with him and asked him to dine at Bushy on his birthday. Hesaid that his successor was not appointed, but it will probablybe Lord Melville. The King has not been well; he goes fishing anddining at Virginia Water, stays out late, and catches cold. 

 [13] [A letter from the Duke of Wellington to Sir Robert Peel, dated the 13th of August, 1828, explains the circumstances that led to the removal of the Duke of Clarence from the office of Lord High Admiral. This letter is published in the first volume of Sir Robert Peel's 'Posthumous Memoirs on the Catholic Question and the Repeal of the Corn Laws, ' p. 269. The Duke of Wellington says, 'He behaved very rudely to Cockburn. I saw Cockburn and Croker, and both agreed in stating that the machine could no longer work. ' In a subsequent letter the Duke added, 'I quite agree with you that it is very unfortunate the Duke of Clarence has resigned. I did everything in my power to avoid that result, excepting give up Cockburn. ' The whole correspondence is published in the fourth volume of the Duke's 'Correspondence, ' New Series. ]

August 29th, 1828 {p. 142}

Came from Stoke last night. There were the Lievens, Cowper, LordMelbourne, Luttrell, Pierre d'Aremberg, Creevy, Russell, Montrond. The King went to Egham races Tuesday and Thursday, wasvery well received and pleased. He was very gracious to me. Madame de Lieven went over to the Lodge to see Lady Conyngham, who finding she had never seen Clifden, carried her off there, ordered luncheon and the pony carriage, took her all over theplace, and then carried her back to Salthill, where the King'scarriage met her and took her back to Virginia Water to dinner. Lieven told me they had never expected to find this Turkishexpedition an easy business, and had always been prepared forgreat difficulties, &c. , from which I conclude that they have metwith some check. I met Bachelor, the poor Duke of York's oldservant, and now the King's _valet de chambre_, and he told mesome curious things about the interior of the Palace; but he iscoming to call on me, and I will write down what he tells methen. There is a report that the Admiralty has been offered toLord Melbourne. I asked him (at Stoke), and he said he had neverheard of it. 

London, November 25th, 1828 {p. 142}

I have not written anything since I left town, because nothingoccurred worth remembering. Yesterday I went to the Council atWindsor. Most of the Ministers were there, the Recorder, twoforeign Ministers, and the Duke of Clarence. The King seemed tobe very well. The Duke of Wellington did not arrive till late, and before he was come the King sent for Peel and gave him anaudience of two hours at least. I thought there must be somethingin the wind, and was struck with Peel's taking the Duke into oneof the window recesses and talking to him very earnestly as soonas he came out. I returned to town after the Council, and in theevening went to the play, and coming out I met Henry de Ros andFrederick Lamb. The former made me go with him in his carriage, when he told me what fully explained the cause of Peel's longaudience--that the Duke has at last made up his mind to carry theCatholic question, and that Peel[14] and the rest of the violentanti-Catholics are going out; that the Duke's present idea is toapply to Huskisson, but that nothing will be done or said tillthe Ministers assemble in town and hold their cabinets. 

 [14] [It had not then transpired, nor was it known until long afterwards, that the proposal to carry Catholic Emancipation was made by Mr. Peel to the Duke of Wellington on the 11th of August. Sir Robert Peel states, however, in his 'Memoir, ' p. 269, 'At the close of the year 1828 little, if any, progress had been made in removing the difficulties with which the Duke of Wellington had to contend;' and, p. 274, 'The chief difficulty was the King. At the commencement of the month of January 1829 his Majesty had not yet signified his consent that the whole subject of Ireland, including the Catholic question, should be taken into consideration by his confidential servants. ']

He told me also that the French Government have at last agreed tomake common cause with us in preventing the Russians fromprosecuting the war against Turkey. 

[Page Head: HEALTH AND HABITS OF GEORGE IV. ]

December 16th, 1828 {p. 143}

A Council at Windsor yesterday; very few present, and noaudiences but Aberdeen for three-quarters of an hour and the Dukefor five minutes. I sent for Bachelor and had a long talk withhim. He said the King was well, but weak, his constitution verystrong, no malady about him, but irritation in the bladder whichhe could not get rid of. He thinks the hot rooms and want of airand exercise do him harm, and that he is getting every day moreaverse to exercise and more prone to retirement, which, besidesthat it weakens his constitution, is a proof that he is beginningto break. Bachelor thinks he is in no sort of danger; I think hewill not live more than two years. He says that his attendantsare quite worn out with being always about him, and living insuch hot rooms (which obliges them to drink) and seldom gettingair and exercise. B. Is at present well, but he sits up everyother night with the King and never leaves him. He is in highfavour, and Sir William Knighton is now as civil and obliging tohim as he used to be the reverse. The King instructs him in hisduties in the kindest manner, likes to have him about him, andtalks a great deal to him. But his Majesty keeps everybody at agreat distance from him, and all about him are afraid of him, though he talks to his pages with more openness and familiaritythan to anybody. He thinks Radford (who is dying) is not in suchfavour as he was, though he is always there; of O'Reilly thesurgeon, who sees the King every day and carries him all thegossip he can pick up, Bachelor speaks with very little ceremony. The King told them the other day that 'O'R. Was the damnedestliar in the world, ' and it seems he is often in the habit ofdiscussing people in this way to his _valets de chambre_. Hereads a great deal, and every morning has his boxes brought tohim and reads their contents. They are brought up by Knighton orWatson, both of whom have keys of all the boxes. He says there isnot one person about him whom he likes--Mount Charles prettywell, Taylor better than anybody, Knighton constantly there andhis influence unbounded; he thinks K. Can do anything. 

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF O'CONNELL. ]

December 20th, 1828 {p. 144}

Hyde Villiers called on me ten days ago to give me an account ofhis visit to Ireland. He seems to have been intimate with severalof the leading men, particularly Shiel, whom all agree indescribing as the cleverest man of his party. He also saw a gooddeal of the Lord-Lieutenant;[15] and was struck by his imprudenceand unreserve. He spoke very positively of his determination notto be a party to any measures contrary to his opinions, and didnot scruple to complain of the little information he receivedfrom the Government here concerning their intentions. He alsoappears to have been flattered by O'Connell into entireconfidence in him, and told Villiers that he would trust himimplicitly. O'Connell and Shiel detest each other, though Shieldoes not oppose him. Lawless detests him too, and he doeseverything he can to thwart and provoke him, and opposes him inthe Association[16] upon all occasions. Lately in the affair ofthe 'exclusive dealing' he met with such opposition in theAssociation that it required a great deal of time and managementto get rid of that proposition, although in the end he carriedthe matter very triumphantly. But O'Connell, though opposed by anumerous party in the Association, is all-powerful in thecountry, and there is not one individual who has a chance ofsupplanting him in the affections of the great mass of theCatholics. For twenty-five years he has been continuallylabouring to obtain that authority and consideration which hepossesses without a rival, and is now so great that they yieldunlimited obedience to his individual will. As an orator he wouldprobably fail in the English House of Commons; but to a mob, especially an Irish mob, he is perfect, exactly the style andmanner which suits their tastes and comprehensions, andconsequently his success with them is unbounded. He has a largelanded property, is at the head of his profession, an admirablelawyer and manager of a cause, and never for a moment diverted bypolitical or other considerations from the due discharge of hisprofessional duties. He is besides a man of high moral characterand great probity in private life, and has been for years in thehabit of affording his professional assistance gratis to those ofhis own religion who cannot afford to pay for it. These are someof the grounds of his popularity, to which may be added hisindustry and devotion to the Roman Catholic cause; he rises atthree every morning and goes to bed at eight. He possesses a veryretentive memory, and is particularly strong in historical andconstitutional knowledge. The great object of his ambition is tobe at the head of his own profession, and his favourite projectto reform the laws, a task for which he fancies himself eminentlyqualified. To accomplish any particular object he cares not towhat charges of partial inconsistency he exposes himself, trusting to his own ingenuity to exonerate himself from themafterwards. Neither O'Connell nor Shiel are supposed to be men ofcourage, but Lawless is, and he is thought capable of the mostdesperate adventures. Shiel is of opinion that the Associationmight be suppressed by law; O'Connell thinks it could not, andthat if it might legally it could not practically. O'Connell sayshe can keep the country quiet another year certainly, Doylethinks not. Doyle is a very able man, a man of the world, dislikes O'Connell, but is obliged to act in concert with him. Doyle, conscious of his own talents, is deeply mortified that nofield is open for their display, and he is one of those men whomust be eminent in whatever cause they are engaged. Murray[17] isa clever man, but not so ambitious as Doyle; Francis Levesonis extremely cautious, cold in his manners, and thereforeconciliates no general regard in Ireland, where they like anexactly opposite character. William Lamb was popular beyond allprecedent, but Francis seems to have avoided giving offence toeither party, which is perhaps as much as could have beenexpected from him, and in a country where the rival factions areso exasperated against each other to be able to preserve acharacter for impartiality is no small praise. I wrote to mybrother Henry what I have mentioned under the head of November21st, and in return he told me that it was in contemplation toput down the Association, and that the law officers in Irelandhad reported that it was practicable, and their opinion had comeover here, but the decision of the Government had not arrived. 

 [15] [The Marquis of Anglesey was then Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. ]

 [16] [The Catholic Association. The 'exclusive dealing' was a pledge required of members of the Association not to deal with Orangemen. ]

 [17] [Dr. Murray, Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin. Lord Francis Leveson (afterwards Lord Francis Egerton and Earl of Ellesmere), Mr. Greville's brother-in-law, was then Irish Secretary. William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, had preceded him in that office. Henry Greville held a place at the Vice-Regal Court. ]

I very soon saw enough to satisfy me that the Duke isendeavouring to prevail on Peel to stay in office, and hisrepeated conferences with the Bishop of Oxford and other bishopsare enough to prove that he is negotiating with the Church, butnothing transpires of his intentions. Not one word has been saidto Huskisson or any of his friends. My belief is that in thatlong conference at Windsor the King tried to prevail on Peel notto go; since which discussions between Peel, the Duke, and theBishop have been going on to see how the matter can be arrangedso as to make Peel's acquiescence palatable to the Church and theBrunswickers, and perhaps to engage the Duke to modify hisintended measures accordingly. This is conjecture. The Duke isgone to Wootton and to Middleton; he is always going about. 

[Page Head: LORD BELMORE GOVERNOR OF JAMAICA. ]

December 21st, 1828 {p. 147}

A few days ago I saw Lord Belmore just as he was setting out forJamaica. I went to talk to him about my plan. [18] He was verycivil and said he would do all that depended upon him. He doesnot seem to be bright, but whatever his talents may be, he seemsto be left to the free exercise of them, for he told me that hefelt his situation to be one of some difficulty, never havingreceived any instructions (except of course the formal instructionsgiven to every governor in writing) as to his conduct from theSecretary of State, having had no conversation with any of theauthorities about the state of the colony, nor any intimation oftheir views and intentions in respect to the principal matters ofinterest there. He said that as the Assembly of Jamaica is nowsitting, he had proposed to postpone his departure till the endof their session, when the Bills they passed would come overhere, and he might discuss them with the Government and learntheir sentiments and wishes as to the course he should adopt; avery sensible proposition. But he received for answer that he hadbetter go now, for that when these Bills came over hereParliament would be sitting, and Government would not haveleisure to attend to the affairs of Jamaica. And this is the wayour colonies are governed! Stephen, [19] to whom I told this, said he was not surprised, for that Sir George Murray didnothing--never wrote a despatch--had only once since he has beenin office seen Taylor, who has got all the West Indies under hiscare. 

 [18] [Mr. Greville held the office of Secretary of the Island of Jamaica. The duties of the office were performed by a deputy paid by the Secretary out of the fees received in the island. He never visited Jamaica, and the office held on these conditions was a sinecure; but he occasionally took part in the affairs of Jamaica in this country. The 'plan' alluded to in this passage is unknown to me. Somerset, second Earl of Belmore, had just been appointed Governor of Jamaica at this time. ]

 [19] [James Stephen, Esq. , then law adviser of the Colonial Office, and afterwards Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies. Mr. Henry Taylor, the accomplished author of 'Philip von Artevelde, ' was at the head of the West India department of the office. Sir George Murray was Secretary of State. ]

I might as well have put in on the 25th of November what the Kingsaid to me, as it seems to have amused everybody. I was standingclose to him at the Council, and he put down his head andwhispered, 'Which are you for, Cadland or the mare?' (meaning thematch between Cadland and Bess of Bedlam); so I put my head downtoo and said, 'The horse;' and then as we retired he said to theDuke, 'A little bit of Newmarket. '

December 30th, 1828 {p. 148}

Hyde Villiers brought me on Thursday or Friday last a copy of theDuke's letter to Dr. Curtis, [20] which had been sent to him fromDublin under strict injunction of not showing it. The next day itappeared in all the newspapers, O'Connell having read it to theAssociation. It has made a great noise, and being as usualambiguous, both parties affect to consider it to be in theirfavour. I fancy the Duke is very angry at its publication, atleast judging from what his secretaries say. 

 [20] [The Duke of Wellington had corresponded with Dr. Curtis, the titular Roman Catholic Primate of Ireland, for many years. Indeed, as appears in the text, he had known him long before at Salamanca, when this prelate was at the Irish College there. Several excellent letters by Dr. Curtis to the Duke are published in the second volume of the Duke's 'Correspondence, ' New Series. The letter adverted to in the text was that in which the Duke said (not very wisely) that 'if men could bury the subject (of Catholic Emancipation) in oblivion for a short time, it might be possible to discover a satisfactory remedy. ' Curtis put a copy of the letter in O'Connell's hands, and he read it aloud at the Catholic Association. Curtis sent a copy of the letter and his own reply to the Lord-Lieutenant, who answered him in another letter, in which he said that 'he did not before know the precise sentiments of the Duke upon the present state of the Catholic question. ' This letter was also made public, and added fuel to the flames. ]

The word _the_ in the first paragraph was substituted for _a_, and this alteration these blockheads pretend makes a greatdifference in the sense. It makes none, and is only worthy ofremark because they probably echo what he has said. It is clearenough as to his _opinion_, but nothing more. Curtis was in Spainand imprisoned by the French at Salamanca. After the battle theDuke delivered him and had a good deal of communication with him. He returned to Ireland, and from that period has been inoccasional correspondence with the Duke. Curtis had written him along letter, desiring information about his intentions, and thiswas the answer. A few days ago Hyde Villiers called on the Dukeand placed in his hands the resolutions which were agreed to by acommittee of the general meeting to be held in Dublin next month. He took them, but said he must decline saying anything; asMinister of the Crown he could not say a word, as whatever he didmust be done in conjunction with his colleagues and with theKing; that there was a disposition to draw inferences fromeverything, as, for example, that a gentleman he had known inSpain had written to him on the subject, and his answer had beenhanded about, and all sorts of inferences drawn from it, whichwas very inconvenient, and proved how cautious he must be. Nodoubt it was the Curtis correspondence to which he alluded. 

 1829. 

[Page Head: RECALL OF LORD ANGLESEY. ]

January 2nd, 1829 {p. 149}

Lord Anglesey was recalled last Sunday. The Duke of Wellingtoncame to see my mother either Saturday or Sunday last, and toldher he had been with the King three hours the day before, talkingto him about Lord A. , that his Majesty was furious with him, thought he took upon himself as if he were King of Ireland, andwas indignant at all he said and all he did. The Duke talked agreat deal about him, but did not say he was recalled, though hismanner was such that he left an impression that he had somethingin his mind which he would not let out. He gave it to beunderstood, however, that he had been endeavouring to appease theKing, and that Lord A. 's recall was insisted on by his Majestyagainst his (the Duke's) desire. I enquired warmly whether he hadasserted or only implied this, because I don't believe one wordof it. I was told that he had only implied it, but had left thatimpression. But the Duke complained of Lord A. 's conduct tohimself; that he had at first written him insolent letters, andlatterly had hardly ever written to him at all. My belief is thatthe Duke has for some time wished to get rid of Lord Anglesey, that these Cabinets have been upon this subject, and that hisrecall was settled there. As to the King's dictation and theDuke's submission, I don't believe a word of it. It has beenclear to me for some time that the Irish Government could notremain in Lord Anglesey's hands. I am very sorry for it, for Ithink it will have a bad effect, and have little hope of itsbeing followed by any measures likely to counteract the evil itimmediately occasions. 

January 4th, 1829 {p. 150}

I have seen letters from Dublin stating that the immediate causeof the recall was a letter which Lord Anglesey had written to theDuke (but what that was I have not ascertained), and that hisimprudence was so great it was impossible he could have gone on. Certainly the writing and then publishing this letter of Curtis'is an enormous act of indiscretion. The consternation in Dublinseems to have been great, and Henry says that if Lord A. Does notdecline all demonstrations of popular feeling towards him, hewill leave Ireland as Lord Fitzwilliam did, attended by the wholepopulation. Yesterday I asked Fitzgerald[21] if it was true thatLord A. Was recalled. He put on a long face, and said 'he did notknow; _recalled_ he certainly was not. ' I saw he was not disposedto be communicative, so I said no more; he, however, began againof his own accord, and asked me whether I thought, in the eventof Lord A. 's coming away, that Francis Leveson would remain. Itold him under what conditions he had taken the place, viz. Thathe was only to stay while Lord A. Did; that circumstances mightmake a difference, but that I knew nothing. He said he had doneremarkably well, given great satisfaction, and shown greatdiscretion in a difficult situation; that the rock Lord A. Hadsplit upon was his vanity. 

 [21] [Right Hon. Vesey Fitzgerald, then President of the Board of Trade. He was raised to the peerage of the United Kingdom in 1835, as Baron Fitzgerald and Vesci. ]

[Page Head: RECALL OF LORD ANGLESEY. ]

January 5th, 1829 {p. 150}

The exact history of what took place in Dublin is as follows:--Lord Anglesey first of all desired George Villiers would get hisletter to Dr. Curtis inserted in the newspaper. He took it toShiel, who agreed to write as good an article as he could to gowith it, and then he went to Dr. Murray to inform him (as Dr. Curtis's friend) of the intended publication, as Curtis himselfwas absent, and his consent ought to have been previouslyobtained. He went afterwards to the Phoenix Park, and LordAnglesey laid the whole case and correspondence before him. Sometime ago the Duke wrote to Lord Anglesey proposing that O'GormanMahon and Steele should be removed from the Commission of thePeace on account of their conduct to the Sheriff of Clare. LordAnglesey wrote word that the subject had engaged his attention, and he had laid the case before the law officers, who hadreported to him that there were no grounds for any legalproceedings against them. 'How, therefore, ' said the Lord-Lieutenant, 'could I degrade men against whom my law officers advised me thatno charge could be brought?' This was one offence; and another, that he had countenanced Lord Cloncurry, who, being a memberof the Association, was unworthy to receive the King's representativeand the Chancellor. Lord Anglesey warmly defended Lord Cloncurryas a magistrate and a man, and appealed to his known loyalty andrespect for the King as a proof that he would never have doneanything derogatory to his own situation. The Duke's letterhe described to have been overbearing and insolent, LordAnglesey's[22] temperate, but firm. Lord Anglesey declares thatthese were all the grounds of offence he had given. Five weekselapsed, during which he heard nothing from the Duke, and at theend of that time he received his letter of recall, conceivednearly in these words:--'My dear Lord Anglesey, --I am aware ofthe impropriety of having allowed your letter to remain so longunanswered, but I wished to consult my colleagues, who were outof town. I have now done so, and they concur with me that withsuch a difference of opinion between the King's Minister and theLord-Lieutenant of Ireland the government of that country couldnot be conducted by you with advantage to the public service. Ihave therefore taken the King's pleasure on the subject, and hecommands me to inform you that you will be immediately relievedfrom your government. I will give you the earliest information ofthe arrangement which will be made in consequence. Believe me, &c. ' This is nearly the letter. [23] From Lord Anglesey GeorgeVilliers went to Shiel, and with him to O'Connell, to whom LordA. Desired he would communicate the event. O'Connell wasdreadfully dejected, so much so that Shiel and G. Villiers wereglad to go home and dine with him in order to calm him. They atlength succeeded in doing so, and made him engage to abstain fromany discussion of the recall in the Association the next day (apromise which he did not keep). Shiel made a very fine speech inthe Association. Nothing, they say, can exceed the generalfeeling on the subject, and Lord Anglesey appears to be actingwith great dignity and reserve; he wishes to decline all popularhonours, and he put off going to the play, which he was to havedone. 

 [22] [The correspondence of Lord Anglesey with the Duke of Wellington on these charges is now published in the 'Wellington Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. V. P. 244. ]

 [23] [The letter itself is now published in the 'Wellington Correspondence, ' New Series, vol. V. P. 366. Mr. Greville's version of it differs in no material point from the original, though the language is slightly altered. ]

January 7th, 1829 {p. 152}

The Duke wrote to Francis Leveson to say he must not be surprisedto hear that a letter would reach Lord Anglesey by that day'spost, conveying to him his recall; that the King was so furiouswith him that he said he would make any sacrifice rather thanallow him to remain there five minutes longer. His Secretary hadrepeatedly remonstrated with the Lord-Lieutenant on his imprudentlanguage in Ireland, and on the tone of his letters to the Duke, but that he always defended both on principle. The Duke said thathis letters were most offensive towards him, yet he continued todeclare that he should have been glad to keep Lord Anglesey onbut for the King. The Lord-Lieutenant did not go to the play, buthis family did, and were received with great applause, althoughthe pit was full of Orangemen. Lord Melville has refused theLord-Lieutenancy. 

January 11th, 1829 {p. 153}

When George Villiers sent me the accounts of what had passed inIreland about Lord Anglesey's letter to Curtis I wrote him a longletter, in which I told him why I thought the letter and itspublication were unjustifiable and indiscreet, and particularlycautioned him against connecting himself much with the agitator, on account of the harm it would do him here. He wrote me a longanswer, defending Lord Anglesey and his measures, but I do notthink he makes out a case for him, and if the Lord-Lieutenantmakes in the House of Lords the defence which he proposes to makeI think he will fail; but if he can keep Lord Plunket on hisside, who is now said to be very eager about him, he will do. Plunket is under the influence of Blake, who keeps, as GeorgeVilliers says, 'Lord Plunket's mind in his breeches' pocket. 'Lord Anglesey has behaved very well since the quarrel, decliningall honours and expressions of public feeling. 

[Page Head: THE KING AND THE CATHOLIC QUESTION. ]

January 12th, 1829 {p. 153}

Lord Mount Charles came to me this morning and consulted me aboutresigning his seat at the Treasury. He hates it and is perplexedwith all that has occurred between the Duke and Lord Anglesey. Iadvised him to resign, feeling as he does about it. He told methat he verily believed the King would go mad on the Catholicquestion, his violence was so great about it. He is very angrywith him and his father for voting as they do, but they haveagreed never to discuss the matter at all, and his mother nevertalks to the King about it. Whenever he does get on it there isno stopping him. Mount Charles attributes the King's obstinacy tohis recollections of his father and the Duke of York and to theinfluence of the Duke of Cumberland. He says that 'his fatherwould have laid his head on the block rather than yield, and thathe is equally ready to lay his head there in the same cause. ' Heis furious with Lord Anglesey, but he will be very much afraid ofhim when he sees him. Mount Charles was in the room when LordAnglesey took leave of the King on going to Ireland, and the Kingsaid, 'God bless you, Anglesey! I know you are a true Protestant. 'Anglesey answered, 'Sir, I will not be considered eitherProtestant or Catholic; I go to Ireland determined to actimpartially between them and without the least bias either oneway or the other. ' Lord Anglesey dined with Mount Charles the daybefore he went. The same morning he had been with the Duke andPeel to receive their last instructions, and he came to dinner ingreat delight with them, as they had told him they knew he wouldgovern Ireland with justice and impartiality, and they would givehim no instructions whatever. He showed me a letter fromMr. Harcourt Lees full of invectives against the Duke andlamentations at the recall, to show how the Protestants regrettedhim as well as the Catholics. 

He then talked to me about Knighton, whom the King abhors with adetestation that could hardly be described. He is afraid of him, and that is the reason he hates him so bitterly. When alone withhim he is more civil, but when others are present (the family, for instance) he delights in saying the most mortifying anddisagreeable things to him. He would give the world to get rid ofhim, and to have either Taylor or Mount Charles instead, to whomhe has offered the place over and over again, but Mount Charlesnot only would not hear of it, but often took Knighton's partwith the King. He says that his language about Knighton issometimes of the most unmeasured violence--wishes he was dead, and one day when the door was open, so that the pages could hear, he said, 'I wish to God somebody would assassinate Knighton. ' Inthis way he always speaks of him and uses him. Knighton isgreatly annoyed at it, and is very seldom there. Still it appearsthere is some secret chain which binds them together, and whichcompels the King to submit to the presence of a man whom hedetests, and induces Knighton to remain in spite of so muchhatred and ill-usage. The King's indolence is so great that it isnext to impossible to get him to do even the most ordinarybusiness, and Knighton is still the only man who can prevail onhim to sign papers, &c. His greatest delight is to make those whohave business to transact with him, or to lay papers before him, wait in his anteroom while he is lounging with Mount Charles oranybody, talking of horses or any trivial matter; and when he istold, 'Sir, there is Watson waiting, ' &c. , he replies, 'DamnWatson; let him wait. ' He does it on purpose, and likes it. 

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF GEORGE IV. ]

This account corresponds with all I have before heard, andconfirms the opinion I have long had that a more contemptible, cowardly, selfish, unfeeling dog does not exist than this King, on whom such flattery is constantly lavished. He has a sort ofcapricious good-nature, arising however out of no good principleor good feeling, but which is of use to him, as it cancels in amoment and at small cost a long score of misconduct. Princes haveonly to behave with common decency and prudence, and they aresure to be popular, for there is a great and general dispositionto pay court to them. I do not know anybody who is proof againsttheir seductions when they think fit to use them in the shape ofcivility and condescension. The great consolation in all this isthe proof that, so far from deriving happiness from theirgrandeur, they are the most miserable of all mankind. Thecontrast between their apparent authority and the contradictionswhich they practically meet with must be peculiarly galling, moreespecially to men whose minds are seldom regulated, as othermen's are, by the beneficial discipline of education and earlycollision with their equals. There have been good and wise kings, but not many of them. Take them one with another they are of aninferior character, and this I believe to be one of the worst ofthe kind. The littleness of his character prevents his displayingthe dangerous faults that belong to great minds, but with vicesand weaknesses of the lowest and most contemptible order it wouldbe difficult to find a disposition more abundantly furnished. 

January 16th, 1829 {p. 155}

I went to Windsor to a Council yesterday. There were the Duke, the Lord Chancellor, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Master ofthe Mint, Lord President, Lord Aberdeen, Peel, Melville, Ellenborough. The King kept us waiting rather longer than usual. He looked very well, and was dressed in a blue great coat, allover gold frogs and embroidery. Lord Liverpool was there to giveup the late Lord's Garter, and had an audience. He said to meafterwards that the King had asked him all sorts of questionsabout his family concerns, with which he seemed extraordinarilywell acquainted, and to some of which he was puzzled to give ananswer. The King is the greatest master of gossip in the world, and his curiosity about everybody's affairs is insatiable. Ispoke to Peel about the Council books, [24] which are in the StatePaper Office, and he promised they should be restored to theCouncil Office. 

 [24] [At the fire which took place at Whitehall in 1619 several volumes of the 'Council Register' were lost or dispersed. Some of these missing volumes were in the State Paper Office, and two are still in the British Museum. ]

Just before I set off to Windsor I heard from Ireland, and thisis an extract of the letter:--'Lord Anglesey received a letterfrom Peel this morning to the effect "that as he had written andpublished a letter such as no Lord-Lieutenant was justified inwriting, it was his Majesty's pleasure that Lords Justices shouldbe immediately appointed. " Francis found him very smiling andglorious, but angry, and declaring that he would do just the sameagain if he had to choose his line of conduct. '

_À propos_ of Denman's silk gown, Mount Charles told me the otherday that Denman wrote a most humble apology to the King, notwithstanding which the Duke of Wellington had great trouble inmollifying him. At last he consented, but wrote himself on thedocument that in consideration of his humble apology his Majestyforgave him, as he thought it became the King to forgive asubject, but desired this note might be preserved in theTreasury, where Mount Charles says it now is. [25]

 [25] [This curious correspondence has now been published in the fifth volume of the Duke of Wellington's 'Despatches, ' New Series, pp. 117 and 153. The cause of the quarrel was a Greek quotation from Dion which Denman had introduced into one of his speeches at the Queen's trial. In the King's answer to the memorial (which answer was drawn up by the Duke of Wellington) the following passage occurs:-- 'The King could not believe that the Greek quotation referred to had occurred to the mind of the advocate in the eagerness and heat of his argument, nor that it was not intended, nor that it had not been sought for and suggested for the purpose of applying to the person of the Sovereign a gross insinuation. ' Denman, however, prayed his Majesty to believe that 'no such insinuation was ever made by him, that the idea of it never entered his mind, ' &c. The truth about this quotation is this:--During the Queen's trial Dr. Parr, who was a warm supporter of the Queen and an intimate friend of Denman, employed himself in ransacking books for quotations which might be used in the defence. Thus he lit in Bayle's Dictionary, article 'Octavia, ' upon the answer made by Pythias, one of the slaves of Octavia, to Tigellinus, when he was torturing the slaves of the Empress in order to convict her of adultery. The same answer occurs in substance in Tacitus' 'Annals, ' book xiv. Cap. 60. This Parr sent to Denman, and Denman used it in his speech. The fact is, therefore, that the quotation had been 'sought for and suggested' for the express purpose of saying something personally offensive to the King. The King's resentment against Denman did not end here as will be seen lower down, where he refused to receive the Recorder's report through the Common Serjeant. ]

January 21st, 1829 {p. 156}

The sealed orders with which the ships have sailed from Plymouth, were orders to prevent the Portuguese (who have been sent away)from landing at Terceira. 

Lady Westmeath was the woman meant in the article in the 'Times'from Ireland about the pension to which Lord Anglesey would notagree. The story is very true. There was £700 disposable on thePension Fund, and the Duke of Wellington desired £400 might begiven to Lady Westmeath, which Lord Anglesey and the Secretaryboth protested against, and were resolved to resign rather thanagree to it. They wrote to the Duke such strong remonstrancesthat he appears to have desisted from the design, for they heardno more of it. It is therefore false that this had anything to dowith the recall, though it is by no means improbable that itserved to alienate the Duke from the Marquis and to make himdesire the more to get rid of him. This happened as long ago aslast August, I think. 

[Page Head: STATE OF RUSSIA. ]

Yesterday the Duke dined with us, in very good spirits, andagreeable as he always is, though not so communicative and freeas he used to be. He had never told Francis Leveson about theDuke of Northumberland[26] till Sunday, when he wrote to announcethe appointment. His Grace seems mightily pleased with it, andfancies that his figure and his fortune are more than enough tomake him a very good Lord-Lieutenant. He says he was obliged tocoax him a little to get him to accept it. 

 [26] [Hugh, third Duke of Northumberland, was declared Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland on the recall of Lord Anglesey. ]

[Page Head: THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER I. ]

He said that he was on the best terms with France, talked ofRussia and her losses in the war, adding that the notion of herpower was at an end. He believed that the Russians werenumerically as strong as the Turks in the last campaign, and theywere much more numerous than they said: first, _because_ theysaid they were not so; and secondly, that he had other reasonsfor believing it; he thought they had begun the campaign with160, 000 men and had lost 120, 000. [27] They were talking of St. Petersburg and its palaces. The Duke said that the fortunes ofthe great Russian nobles--the Tolstoys, &c. --were so diminishedthat they lived in corners of their great palaces; but this wasowing to the division of property and the great militarycolonies, by which the Crown lands were absorbed, and theEmperors had no longer the means of enriching the nobles byenormous donations as formerly. When to these circumstances areadded the amelioration of the condition of the serfs, and thespirit of general improvement, and the growth of Liberal ideas, generated by intercommunication with the rest of Europe, it isimpossible to doubt that a revolution must overtake Russia withina short period, and probably the Emperor has undertaken this warin order to give vent to the restless humours which are beginningto work. I said so to Lord Bathurst, and he replied that 'hethought so too, but that the present Emperor was a man of greatfirmness, ' as if any individual authority or character could stemthe torrent of determined action impelled by universal revolutionof feeling and opinion. He said the late Emperor was so wellaware of this that he died of the vexation it had caused him, which was aggravated by the reflection that he was in greatmeasure himself the cause of it. He was so bit by Liberalopinions, and so delighted with the effects he saw in othercountries flowing from the diffusion of intelligence and freedom, that he wished to engraft these dangerous exotics upon the rudeand unprepared soil of his own slavish community. When he went toOxford he was so captivated with the venerable grandeur of thatUniversity that he declared he would build one when he gothome, and it is equally true that he said he 'would have anOpposition. ' These follies were engendered in the brain of a veryintelligent man by the mixture of such crudities with anunbounded volition, and the whole fermented by a livelyimagination and a sincere desire to confer great benefits on hiscountry. 

 [27] [This seems an extraordinary statement, but it shows how well informed the Duke was. In Major von Moltke's narrative of the campaign of 1828 he estimates the average force of the Russian army at 100, 000. But from May 1828 to February 1829 no less than 210, 108 men passed through the hospitals, or died in them. So that, as Moltke remarks, in the course of those ten months every man in his army was twice in hospital. Never did an army suffer more severely from sickness. ]

January 25th, 1829 {p. 159}

Lord Anglesey's departure from Dublin was very fine, and hisanswer to the addresses good. I fancy George Villiers had somehand in penning them. The Duke when he dined with us the otherday said that a Russian Extraordinary Ambassador was coming hereto overhaul Lieven, a M. Matuscewitz. He is the principal writerin their Foreign Office, a clever man. Their despatches are moreable than they used to be, but the Duke said that the Turkishoffices are better conducted than any, and the Turkish Ministersextremely able. Lord Bathurst told me he had lately read theminutes of a conversation between the Reis-Effendi and the AlliedMinisters after the battle of Navarino, when they were ignorantwhether the Turk had received intelligence of the event, and thathis superiority over them was exceedingly striking. This was theconference in which when they asked him 'supposing such an eventhad happened, what he should say to it, ' he replied 'that in hiscountry they never named a child till its sex was ascertained. '

Everybody thinks the appointment of the Duke of Northumberland avery good one, and that the Duke is in great luck to get him. Itis surprising that he should have consented to go, but heprobably likes to do something and display his magnificence. Heis a very good sort of man, with a very narrow understanding, aneternal talker, and prodigious bore. The Duchess is a moresensible woman, and amiable and good-humoured. He is supposed tobe ruled in all things by her advice; he has no politicalopinions, and though he has hitherto voted against the Catholics, he is one of the people who pin their faith on the Duke, and whoare made to vote in any way and upon anything as he may please todesire them. 

This pension of Lady Westmeath's makes a great noise, and it isgenerally believed that when Lord Anglesey refused to grant itthe Duke got the King's sign manual for it, and the job was done. The truth is that Lord Anglesey had at first refused, or ratherexpressed his disapprobation, and asked the Duke if the King hadcommanded it, to which the Duke sent an angry answer that hemight have been sure he should not have recommended it but by theKing's commands. M---- told me the pension (£400) was grantedfour months ago, for he signed the warrant himself. 

Polignac is gone to Paris, but the Duke thinks not to beMinister. Polignac told him that he wished to return here, as hethought he could do more good here than there. 

[Page Head: THE STATE PAPER OFFICE. ]

Yesterday I went with Amyot to the State Paper Office to lookafter my Council books. I found one book belonging to my officeand nearly thirty volumes of the 'Register of the Council ofState, '[28] which I mean to ask for, but which I suppose theywill refuse. Amyot suggests that as all the acts of the Councilof State were illegal and of no authority they cannot beconsidered as belonging to the Council Office, and are merelyhistorical records without an official character. I shall try, however, to get them. Mr. Lemon showed us a great many curiouspapers. When he first had the care of the State papers they werein the greatest confusion, and he has been diligently employed inreducing them to order. Every day has brought to light documentsof importance and interest which as they are successively foundare classed and arranged and rendered disposable for literary andhistorical purposes. 

 [28] [Of the time of the Commonwealth. The 'Privy Council Register' extends from the last years of Henry VIII. To the present time, not including the Commonwealth. ]

Lemon has found papers relating to the Powder Plot alonesufficient to make two quarto volumes, exceedingly curious; allGarnett's original papers, and I hope hereafter they will bepublished. [29] We saw the famous letter to Lord Mounteagle, ofwhich Lemon said he had, he thought, discovered the author. Ithas been attributed to Mrs. Abington, Lord Mounteagle's sister, but he thinks it was written by Mrs. Vaux, who was a friend ofhers, and mistress, probably, of Garnett; it is to her that manyof Garnett's letters are addressed. It seems that Mrs. Vaux andMrs. Abington were both present at the great meeting of theconspirators at Hendlip, and he thinks that the latter, desirousof saving her brother's life, prevailed on Mrs. Vaux to write theletter, for the handwriting exactly corresponds with some otherwriting of hers which he has seen. There is a remarkable paperwritten by King James with directions what questions should beput to Guy Faux, and ending with a recommendation that he shouldbe tortured first gently, and then more severely as might benecessary. Then the depositions of Faux in the Tower, which hadbeen taken down (contrary to his desire) in writing, and which hewas compelled to sign upon the rack; his signature was written infaint and trembling characters, and his strength had evidentlyfailed in the middle, for he had only written 'Guido. ' There is adistinct admission in the Plot papers in Garnett's own hand thathe came to a knowledge of the Plot otherwise than by theSacrament of Confession, which oversets Lingard; a paragraph bywhich it is clear that the Pope knew of it; and a curious paperin which, having sworn that he had never written certain letters, which letters were produced when he was taxed with the falseoath, Garnett boldly justifies himself, and says that they oughtnot to have questioned him on the subject, having the letters intheir hands, and that he had a right to deny what he believedthey could not prove--a very remarkable exposition of the tenetsof his order and the doctrines of equivocation. 

 [29] [The substance of these papers has since been published by the late David Jardine, Esq. , in his excellent 'Narrative of the Gunpowder Plot. ' (Murray, London, 1857. ) Some of the particulars here referred to by Mr. Greville are not strictly accurate, or at least have not been confirmed by subsequent investigation. It is not probable that the letter to Lord Mounteagle was written by Mrs. Abington or by Mrs. Vaux, nor is it at all certain that either of these ladies had any knowledge of the Plot. Mr. Jardine ascribes the letter to Tresham ('Narrative, ' &c. , p. 83). Garnett's admissions are printed in Jardine's Appendix. His knowledge of the Plot was derived from Greenway, a priest to whom Catesby had revealed it in confession. The Pope was probably not privy to the Plot. The celebrated 'Treatise on Equivocation' was found in Tresham's desk. The identical copy with Garnett's notes is still in the Bodleian; it was reprinted in 1851. ]

When I came away from the State Paper Office I met George Dawson, and we had a long conversation about Irish affairs, from which Igathered what is to be done. The Catholic question is to beconceded, the elective franchise altered, and the Associationsuppressed. This latter is, I take it, to be a preliminarymeasure, and I suspect the Duke went to the King on Monday withthe resolution of the Cabinet on the subject, and I think so themore because the Archbishop was sent for post-haste just beforehe went. Dawson talked to me a great deal about his speech atDerry, and said that so many of his friends were aware of thechange in his opinions that he thought it more fair and manly todeclare them at once in public than to use any dissimulation withhis constituents and leave them to be guessed at, as if he darednot own them; that he had made a great sacrifice, for he hadrisked his seat, which was very secure before, and had quarrelledwith Peel, with his family, and with all his old politicalfriends and associates. We talked a great deal about Peel, and Isee clearly that he has given way; probably they have compromisedthe business, and he agrees to the Emancipation part, in order tohave the Association suppressed and the 40s. Freeholdersdisfranchised. Lord Anglesey always said that his removal wouldfacilitate the business, for the Duke wished to have all thecredit of it to himself, and had no mind to divide it with him, whereas if Lord Anglesey had remained the chief credit would havefallen to his share. 

[Page Head: NAVARINO. ]

I met Sir Edward Codrington in the morning, and walked with himto Downing Street, where he was going to talk to the Duke abouthis Navarino business. He is mightily incensed, thinks he hasbeen scandalously used both by Dudley and Aberdeen, is ready totell his story and show his documents to anybody, and says he isresolved the whole matter shall come out, and in the House ofCommons if he can produce it. God knows how his case will turnout, but I never saw a man so well satisfied with himself. Hesays that the action at Navarino was, as an achievement, nothingto the affair at Patras, when with one line-of-battle ship, onefrigate, and a corvette he drove before him Ibrahim and fourTurkish admirals and a numerous fleet. 

February 4th, 1829 {p. 163}

Went to Middleton last Friday; very few people. I returned byOxford, and called on Dr. Bandinell, who took me to the Bodleian. I could not find any Council books, but I had not much time todevote to the search. Dr. Bandinell promised to inform me if hecould find any books or manuscripts relating to my office. I wassurprised to find in the Bodleian a vast number of books(manuscripts) which had belonged to Pepys. I came to town onMonday night, and found that the concession of CatholicEmancipation was generally known; the 'Times' had an article onFriday which clearly announced it. The rage and despair of theOrange papers is very amusing. I have not yet heard how the Kingtook it all. Glad as I am that the measure is going to becarried, the conduct of all those who are to assist in it (theold anti-Catholics) seems to me despicable to the greatestdegree; having opposed it against all reason and common sense foryears past, now that the Duke of Wellington lifts up his fingerthey all obey, and without any excuse for their past or presentconduct. The most agreeable event, if it turns out to be true, isthe defection of Dr. Philpots, whose conduct and that of othersof his profession will probably not be without its due effect insapping the foundations of the Church. All the details that Ihave yet learnt confirm my opinion that the spirit in which theDuke and his colleagues approach this great measure is not thatof calm and deliberate political reasoning, but a fearful senseof necessity and danger, to which they submit with extremerepugnance and with the most miserable feelings of pique andmortification at being compelled to adopt it. The Duke and Peelwrote to Francis Leveson, complaining of my brother's havingmet Shiel at dinner, and they were so enraged with GeorgeVilliers[30] that they seriously meditated turning him out of hisoffice. Wretched and contemptible to the greatest degree! Theyare now exceedingly annoyed because it is discovered that Woulffewas once a member of the Association, and would willingly havehim turned out of the place of Assistant-Barrister, which hasjust been given to him; but Francis is resolved to maintain himin it. They say the Duke sent a copy of the King's Speech to LordEldon. 

 [30] [Mr. George Villiers, then an Irish Commissioner of Customs (afterwards Earl of Clarendon), had cultivated the society of Shiel and invited him to dinner. Such an attention from an English official to an Irish Catholic was at that time an unheard-of innovation. Shiel told his host that he had never dined in a Protestant house before. The Duke of Wellington took great umbrage at what he considered an unwarrantable breach of official decorum. ]

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

February 5th, 1829 {p. 164}

Went to Brookes' yesterday, and found all the Whigs very merry atthe Catholic news. Most of them were just come to town and hadheard nothing till they arrived. The old Tories dreadfullydejected, but obliged to own it was all true; intense curiosityto hear what Peel will say for himself. The general opinion seemsto be that the Duke has managed the matter extremely well, whichI am disposed to think too, but there is always a disposition toheap praise upon him whenever it is possible. Nobody yet knowswho are converted and who are not; they talk of nine bishops; Ithink he will have them all, and I expect a very great majorityin the House of Lords. Many people expect that Wilmot's plan willbe adopted, restraining the Catholics from voting in mattersconcerning the Church, which I do not believe, for Wilmot is at adiscount and his plan is absurd and impracticable. Lord Harrowby, however, is all for it. I hear many of the Liberals areexceedingly provoked, and not unnaturally, at the Duke'seffecting this measure, at which they have been so long labouringin vain, and give as many spiteful flings at him as they canabout the insincerity of his letter to Curtis. It matters verylittle now whether he was sincere or not. It evidently was partof his plan to keep it all secret till it was matured, and asCurtis chose to ask him questions he was quite right to throwdust in his eyes. 

 CHAPTER V. 

The Catholic Relief Bill--Inconsistency of the Tories--The Catholic Association--Dinner at Charles Grant's--The Terceira Expedition--Tory Discontent--Peel resigns his Seat for Oxford University--A Blunder in Chancery--The Oxford Election-- Influence of the Duke of Wellington--Debate of Royal Dukes-- Peel beaten--Sir Edward Codrington--Violence of the King-- Intrigues to defeat the Catholic Bill--The Duke of Cumberland-- Furious State of Parties--Matuscewitz--Peel's Speech on Catholic Emancipation--Exclusion of O'Connell from his Seat for Clare--Pitt's View of Catholic Emancipation--'Musae Cateatonenses'--'Thorough'--Mr. Lowther not turned out--Duke of Newcastle's Audience of George IV. --The King's Personal Habits--The Debate--Mr. Sadler--Hardness of the Duke of Wellington--His Duel with Lord Winchelsea--The Bishops and the Bill--Sir Charles Wetherell--The King on the Duel--Lord Winchelsea's Pocket-handkerchief--Debate on the Catholic Bill-- The Duke of Richmond--Effects of Dawson's Speech on the King-- The Bill in Jeopardy--Lady Jersey and Lord Anglesey--Lord Falmouth and Lord Grey--O'Connell at Dinner--The Duke breaks with Lord Eldon--Hibner the Murderess--Theatrical Fund--The Levee--The Duke's Carriage stopped--The King's Health--Lady Conyngham--O'Connell's Seat--Child's Ball at Court--Princess Victoria--Legal Appointments--Lord Palmerston on Foreign Affairs--The King and Lord Sefton--The King's Speech on the Prorogation--Madame du Cayla--George IV. 's Inaccuracy-- Conversation of the Duke of Wellington on the King and the Duke of Cumberland. 

[Page Head: PEEL'S SPEECH ON THE CATHOLIC BILL. ]

February 6th, 1829 {p. 166}

Parliament met yesterday; a very full attendance and intenseinterest and curiosity. The King's Speech, which was long andbetter written than usual, was not quite satisfactory to theCatholics. I met Lord Harrowby coming from the House of Lords, and he said they did not like it at all; the previous suppressionof the Association was what they disliked. However, alldiscontent was removed by Peel's speech, which was deemed (as tothe intentions of Ministers) perfectly satisfactory even by thosewho were most prejudiced before against Government. I was in theHouse of Commons. Peel was very feeble, and his case for himselfpoor and ineffective; all he said was true enough, but it wasonly what had been said to him over and over again for yearspast, and he did not urge a single argument for acquiescing nowwhich was not equally applicable to his situation two years ago. However, everybody was so glad to have the measure carried thatthey did not care to attack Peel or his speech, though if therehad been a Brunswicker of any talent in the House he might havecut it up finely; two or three of them spoke, but wretchedly ill, and Lord Chandos was not at all violent, which I expected hewould have been. Lord Eldon was violent but impotent, in theHouse of Lords, and Lord Bathurst made a sort of explanationwhich was very poor. 

On leaving the House of Commons I fell in with Burdett, LordSefton, and G. Bentinck, and they all owned that the business isvery handsomely done; and Morpeth and many others whom I sawafterwards at the Club are quite satisfied. They would havepreferred that the Catholic Relief Bill and the suppression ofthe Association should have gone together, but do not make anydifficulties on this head, and acknowledge (which is the truth)that the Duke was probably obliged to do something to cajole theTories, and give some colour to their conduct. I sat next toFitzgerald in the House, who is not yet re-elected, and he toldme that this was absolutely necessary. He was of course delightedand said, 'How right Lord Francis was to trust to the Duke, 'which, however, is all nonsense. He had no reason to trust to himat all, and I really believe would not have continued in officeas Irish Secretary unless he had adopted this measure. He ownedas Peel was speaking that he was not doing it well; he was feebleand diffuse in the beginning, and too full of civilities andappeals to Bankes and his old associates. However, thank God, theevent is accomplished, no matter how; probably it could not havebeen done without the concurrence of these Tories, who have, Ithink, certainly lost their character by their conduct; and thereis this evil in the history of the measure, that a blow will havebeen given to the reputation of public men in general which will, I strongly suspect, have an important though not immediate effectupon the aristocratic influence in this country, and tendremotely to increase the democratic spirit which exists. In allthese proceedings there has been so little of reason, principle, or consistency; so much of prejudice, subserviency, passion, andinterest, that it is impossible not to feel a disgust to partiesin general. The conduct of those idiots the Brunswickers isrespectable in comparison with such men as the High Churchmen;and the Whigs and Catholic supporters, however they may havesuffered before, in this matter stand clear and have only groundsfor exultation. They accept the measure with great moderation, and are not disposed to mar the success of it by the introductionof any topics likely to create ill blood, nor to damp the ardourof new converts by throwing their former follies in their faces. 

Now, then, the Duke is all-powerful, and of course he will getall the honour of the day. Not that he does not deserve a greatdeal for having made up his mind to the thing; he has managed itwith firmness, prudence, and dexterity; but to O'Connell and theAssociation, and those who have fought the battle on both sidesof the water, the success of the measure is due. Indeed, Peelsaid as much, for it was the Clare election which convinced bothhim and the Duke that it must be done, and from that time theonly question was whether he should be a party to it or not. Ifthe Irish Catholics had not brought matters to this pass byagitation and association, things might have remained as theywere for ever, and all these Tories would have voted on till theday of their death against them. 

Mahony, who is here, has written over to O'Connell, as have allthe other Catholics, to implore him to use his whole influence toprocure the dissolution of the Association, and it is said thatO'Connell had an idea of resigning his seat for Clare to Vesey, on the ground that, having turned him out because he had joined aGovernment hostile to their claims, he owed him this reparationon finding it not to be the case. But I doubt whether this schemeis practicable; still, I think if O'Connell could do it it wouldbe a good thing, and serve to reconcile the people here to him, and give a great lift to his character. I expect to hear that theAssociation has dissolved itself on receiving intelligence of theproceedings in the House of Commons. Lord Anglesey spoke verywell, but nobody will care for his case now; besides, I doubt hismaking out a good one. The fact is that they laid a trap for him, and that he fell into it; that the Duke's letters became moreinsulting, and that a prudent man would have avoided the snareinto which his high spirit and passion precipitated him. 

[Page Head: DINNER AT CHARLES GRANT'S]

February 8th, 1829

Peel spoke on Friday night better than he did on Thursday. Huskisson made a spiteful speech, and George Dawson one which Iheard Huskisson say he thought one of the neatest speeches he hadever heard. I dined yesterday with all the Huskissonians atGrant's. There were there Lords Granville, Palmerston, andMelbourne, Huskisson, Warrender, and one or two more. Huskissonis in good humour and spirits, but rather bitter; he said that ifPeel had asked the advice of a friend what he should do, theadvice would have been for his own honour to resign. I said I didnot think Peel would have got credit by resigning. He said, 'Butdon't you think he has quite lost it by staying in?' He owned, however, that the Duke could not have carried it without Peel, that his influence with the Church party is so great that hiscontinuance was indispensable to the Duke. 

This affair of the Portuguese at Terceira[1] (which certainly, unless it can be explained, seems a gross outrage) they all fellupon very severely, and Lord Harrowby told me afterwards he couldnot understand it, and thought for the honour of the country itshould be explained forthwith. 

 [1] [In December 1828 an expedition, consisting of 652 Portuguese refugees of the party of the Queen, sailed from England for Terceira in four vessels, under the command of Count Saldanha. Terceira held for the Queen, and arms and ammunition had previously been sent them from England. The British Government ordered Captain Walpole, of the 'Ranger' to stop this expedition off Terceira, which he did by firing a gun into Saldanha's ship. The ground taken by the Duke of Wellington in defence of this measure was his resolution to maintain the neutrality of England between the two parties then contending for the Crown of Portugal. But the proceeding was vehemently attacked in Parliament and elsewhere. ]

[Page Head: DISCONTENT OF THE TORIES. ]

We are now beginning to discover different people's feelingsabout this Catholic business, and it is clear that many of thegreat Tories are deeply offended that the Duke was not morecommunicative to them, principally, it seems, because they havecontinued to talk in an opposite sense and in their old strain upto the last moment, thereby committing themselves, and thusbecoming ridiculous by the sudden turn they are obliged to make. This they cannot forgive, and many of them are extremely out ofhumour, although not disposed to oppose the Duke. The Duke ofRutland means to go to Belvoir, and not vote at all. The Duke ofBeaufort does not like it, but will support the measure. Lowtherhas been to the King, and it is supposed he has resigned. Theycomplain that the Duke has thrown them over, still nobody doubtsthat he will have great majorities in both Houses. It wasasserted most positively at Brookes' yesterday that Peel's offerof resigning his seat at Oxford had been accepted. In Dublin themoderate people are furious with O'Connell for his abuse ofeverybody. There is no getting over the fact that he it is whohas brought matters to this conclusion, and that but for him theCatholic question would never have been carried; but hisviolence, bad taste, and scurrility have made him 'lose thelustre of his former praise. '

February 9th, 1829 {p. 179}

I called at Devonshire House in the morning, and there foundPrincess Lieven very eloquent and very angry about the Terceirabusiness, which certainly requires explanation. She is veryhostile to the Duke, which is natural, as he is anti-Russian, andthey have never got over their old quarrel. Saldanha got up a_coup de théâtre_ on board his ship. When Walpole fired on him aman was killed, and when the English officer came on board he hadthe corpse stretched out and covered by a cloak, which wassuddenly withdrawn, and Saldanha said, 'Voilà un fidèle sujet dela Reine, qui a toujours été loyal, assassiné, ' &c. 

Went from thence to Mrs. Arbuthnot, who declaimed againstO'Connell and wants to have a provision in the Bill to preventhis sitting for Clare, which I trust is only her folly, and thatthere is no chance of such a thing. The Duke came in while I wasthere. He said he had no doubt he should do very well in theHouse of Lords, but up to that time he could only (that he knewof for certain) reduce the majority of last year to twenty. Hedid not count bishops, of whom he said he knew nothing, but thethree Irish bishops would vote with him. There were many othershe did not doubt would, but he could only count upon that number. He held some proxies, which he said he would not make use of, such as Lord Strangford's, as he could not hear from him in time, and would not use anybody's proxy for this question who had votedagainst it before. I told him how peevish the Duke of Rutland, and Beaufort, and others of the High Tories were, but he onlylaughed. In the evening Fitzgerald told me that the Convocationat Oxford had accepted Peel's resignation of his seat for theUniversity, but left the time to him. It seems to me that thisaffair was mismanaged. In the first instance Peel wrote to theDean of Christ Church, but he and Lloyd[2] agreed that he oughtto write to the Vice-Chancellor, which he did. The Vice-Chancellordid not read his letter till after they had voted the addressto Parliament by three to one, after which it was difficult forthem to express anything but disapprobation of Peel's conduct;whereas if the Vice-Chancellor had read it first, probably thepetition would not have been carried, or at any rate not by solarge a majority. He had better have carried his Bill throughand then resigned, when I have no doubt he would have beenre-elected; very likely he may be as it is. 

 [2] [The Bishop of Oxford, one of Sir Robert Peel's most intimate friends. ]

Tom Duncombe is going to make another appearance on the boards ofSt. Stephen's, on the Terceira business, and he is to give noticeto-night. He has been with Palmella and Frederick Lamb, who areboth to assist in getting up his case, and he expects to besupported by some of the Whigs and by the Huskissonians, whichlatter are evidently anxious to do anything they can to embarrassthe Government. I know nothing of the case, which, _primâ facie_, appears much against Government; but the moment is so ill-chosen, in the midst of this great pending affair, that I think they willmake nothing of it. Palmella is a great fool for his pains, forin clamouring against the Duke he is only kicking against thepricks. As to Duncombe, he is egged on by Lambton and instructedby Henry de Ros, who cares nothing about the matter, and onlydoes it for the fun of the thing. I have no idea but thatDuncombe must cut a sorry figure when he steps out of the line ofpersonal abuse and impertinence. 

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

February 11th, 1829 {p. 172}

Nothing is thought of or talked of but the Catholic question;what Peers and bishops will vote for it? who voted before againstit? There is hardly any other feeling than that of satisfaction, except on the part of the ultra-Tories, who do not attempt toconceal their rage and vexation; the moderate Tories, who aremortified at not having been told of what was going on; andHuskisson's party, who would have been glad to have a share inthe business, and who now see themselves in all probabilityexcluded for ever. O'Connell arrived yesterday; it is supposed hewill not take his seat, but he does not seem inclined toco-operate with Government in keeping things quiet. However, hisreal disposition is not yet known, and probably he has not madeup his mind what to do, but waits for events. Notwithstanding thedeclaration of the bishops, I do not believe they will voteagainst Government. Peel spoke very well last night, and severelytrimmed old Bankes, which gives me great pleasure, so much do Ihate that old worn-out set. How this change of measures changesone's whole way of thinking; though I have nothing to do withpolitics, I cannot help being influenced to an extraordinarydegree by what has passed, and can understand from my ownfeelings how those who are deeply engaged may be biassed by theprejudices and attachments of party without any imputationagainst their sincerity or judgment. When we see men pursuing acourse of which we greatly disapprove, all their actions andmotives are suspected by us, and _vice versâ_. We lend a willingear to imputations of vanity, interest, and other unworthymotives, and when we cannot explain or comprehend the particularsof men's conduct, we judge them unfavourably while we are opposedto their measures; but when they do what we wish, we see the samethings very differently, and begin to hesitate about the justiceof our censures and the suspicions which we previously entertained. It is pretty clear that the Duke will have a good majority in theHouse of Lords, and that many Peers and bishops will find excusesbetween this and then for voting with him or remaining neutral. 

A ridiculous thing happened the other day in the Vice-Chancellor'sCourt. Sugden had taken a brief on each side of a case withoutknowing it. Home, who opened on one side and was followed byanother lawyer, was to be answered by Sugden; but he, having gothold of the wrong brief, spoke the same way as Home. TheVice-Chancellor said coolly, 'Mr. Sugden is with you?' 'Sir, 'said Home, 'his argument is with us, but he is engaged on theother side. ' Finding himself in a scrape, he said 'it was true heheld a brief for the other party, but for no client would he everargue against what he knew to be a clear rule of law. ' However, the Court decided against them all. 

February 13th, 1829 {p. 173}

Still the Catholic question and the probable numbers in the Houseof Lords; nobody talks of anything else. Lord Winchelsea makes anass of himself, and would like to be sent to the Tower, butnobody will mind anything such a blockhead says. Lord Hollandtalks of a majority of sixty in the Lords. I walked withEbrington to O'Connell's door the other day; he went in. The nextday I asked him what had passed. He said that he had pressed himstrongly to dissolve the Association; O'Connell said he could notpress it himself, but would write to Ireland that it was theunanimous opinion of all the friends of the cause here that itshould be done. The fact is, he does not dare to acquiesce in allthe measures of Government, though there is little doubt but thathe desires to see an end to associations and agitations. LadyJersey affects to be entirely in the Duke's confidence. She saidto Lord Granville at Madame de Lieven's the other night that 'shemade it a rule never to talk to the Duke about affairs inpublic, ' and she said to me last night that she had known whatwas to be done about the Catholics all along. Certainly shecontrives to make the Duke see a great deal of her, for he callson her, and writes to her perpetually, but I doubt whether hetells her much of anything. Some of the household have made astruggle to be exempted from the general obligation on allmembers of Government to vote for the Bill, but the Duke will notstand it, and they must all vote or go out. The Privy Seal wasoffered to Lord Westmoreland, but he refused, and his answer wasgood--that if he had been in the Cabinet, he might possibly haveseen the same grounds for changing his mind on the Catholicquestion that the other Ministers did; but not having had thoseopportunities, he retained his former opinions, and thereforecould not accept office. 

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

February 22nd, 1829 {p. 174}

Went to Newmarket last Sunday and came back on Thursday. Stillthe Catholic question and nothing else. Everybody believed thatthe Duke of Cumberland would support Government till he madethis last speech. He went to the King, who desired him to callon the Duke, and when he got to town he went uninvited to dinewith him. There has been nothing of consequence in either House, except the dressing which Lord Plunket gave Lord Eldon, thoughthat hard-bitten old dog shows capital fight. Peel has got amost active and intelligent committee at Oxford, and theyconsider his election safe. Inglis's committee, on the contrary, is composed of men not much better than old women, except FynesClinton, the chairman. Every day the majority promises to begreater in the House of Lords, but it is very ridiculous to seethe faces many of these Tory Lords make at swallowing thebitter pill. Too great a noise is made about Peel and hissacrifices, but he must be supported and praised at thisjuncture. It is not for those who have been labouring in thiscause, and want his assistance, to reject him or treat himuncivilly now that he tenders it. But as to the body of the HighTories, it is impossible not to regard their conduct withdisgust and contempt, for now they feel only for themselves, and it is not apprehension of those dangers they have beenconstantly crying out about that affects them, but the necessitythey are under of making such a sudden turn, and bittermortification at having been kept in total ignorance, and, consequently, having been led to hold the same violent languageup to the last moment. If Canning had lived, God knows whatwould have happened, for they never would have turned round forhim as they are now about to do for the Duke. The circumstancesof the case are just the same; since 1825 the same game has beengoing on in Ireland, and in the same manner, and the Clareelection was only what had happened at Waterford before. Allthis has given a blow to the aristocracy, which men only laughat now, but of which the effects will be felt some day or other. Who will have any dependence hereafter on the steadiness andconsistency of public men, and what credit will be given toprofessions and declarations? I am glad to see them draggedthrough the mire, as far as the individuals are concerned, but Iam sorry for the effect that such conduct is likely to produce. There was a capital paper of Cobbett's yesterday, in his beststyle. Many Liberals are uneasy about what are called thesecurities, and when the Duke tells Lord Colchester that if hewill wait he will be satisfied with the Bill, it is enough tomake them so; but my hopes predominate over my fears. YesterdayVesey Fitzgerald said that 'we had not yet seen what some peoplemight consider the objectionable parts of the measure, but that, though certain things might be necessary, the Government areimpressed with the paramount necessity of not leaving theCatholic question behind them, and that the Duke was a man oftoo firm a mind not to go through with it;' and I think he saiddistinctly that Catholics and Protestants must be placed on anequal footing, or something to that effect. He went off into apanegyric on the Duke, and said that seeing him as he did forseveral hours every day, he had opportunities of finding outwhat an extraordinary man he was, and that it was remarkablewhat complete ascendency he had acquired over all who were abouthim. The English of this is (what everybody knew) that hedictates to his Cabinet. The fact is, he is a man of greatenergy, decision, and authority, and his character has beenformed by the events of his life, and by the extraordinarycircumstances which have raised him to a situation higher thanany subject has attained in modern times. That his greatinfluence is indispensable to carry this question, and thereforemost useful at this time, cannot be doubted, for he can addressthe King in a style which no other Minister could adopt. Hetreats with him as with an equal, and the King stands completelyin awe of him. It will be long before a correct and impartialestimate is formed of the Duke's character and abilities; histalents, however, must be of a very superior, though not of themost shining description. Whatever he may be, he is at thismoment one of the most powerful Ministers this country has everseen. The greatest Ministers have been obliged to bend to theKing, or the aristocracy, or the Commons, but he commands themall. M---- told me that he had not seen the King, but that heheard he was as sulky as a bear, and that he was sure he wouldbe very glad if anything happened to defeat this measure, thoughhe is too much afraid of the Duke to do anything himself tendingto thwart it. 

The Emperor of Russia is extremely disgusted at the language ofthe newspapers here, and desired his Minister to complain of it, and the Duke wrote the answer himself, in which he entered atgreat length into the character and utility of the press in thiscountry, a dissertation affording a proof certainly of hisquickness and industry, overwhelmed as he is with business. TheDuke of Richmond offered to give up his Garter, but the Dukewould not take it back. 

[Page Head: DEBATE OF THE ROYAL DUKES. ]

February 26th, 1829 {p. 177}

The debate on Monday night in the House of Lords was veryamusing. It was understood the Duke of Clarence was to speak, andthere was a good deal of curiosity to hear him. Lord Bathurst wasin a great fright lest he should be violent and foolish. He madea very tolerable speech, of course with a good deal of stuff init, but such as it was it has exceedingly disconcerted the otherparty. The three royal Dukes Clarence, Cumberland, and Sussex gotup one after another, and attacked each other (that is, Clarenceand Sussex attacked Cumberland, and he them) very vehemently, andthey used towards each other language that nobody else could haveventured to employ; so it was a very droll scene. The Duke ofClarence said the attacks on the Duke [of Wellington] had been_infamous_; the Duke of Cumberland took this to himself, but whenhe began to answer it could not recollect the expression, whichthe Duke of Clarence directly supplied. 'I said "infamous. "' TheDuke of Sussex said that the Duke of Clarence had not intended toapply the word to the Duke of Cumberland, but if he chose to takeit to himself he might. Then the Duke of Clarence said that theDuke of Cumberland had lived so long abroad that he had forgottenthere was such a thing as freedom of debate. 

February 27th, 1829 {p. 177}

They say Plunket made one of the best speeches he ever deliveredlast night, and Lord Anglesey spoke very well. There was hardlyanybody in the House. Peel's election [Oxford University] isgoing on ill. The Convocation presents a most disgraceful sceneof riot and uproar. I went to the Committee Room last night attwelve, and found nobody there but Dr. Russell, the head-masterof the Charterhouse, who was waiting for Hobhouse and amusinghimself by correcting his boys' exercises. He knew me, though hehad not seen me for nearly twenty years, when I was at school. Ishall be sorry if Peel does not come in, not that I care much forhim, but because I cannot bear that his opponents should have atriumph. 

Lady Georgiana Bathurst told me she had had a great scene withthe Duke of Cumberland. She told him not to be factious and to goback to Germany; he was very angry, and after much argument andmany reproaches they made it up, embraced, and he shed a flood oftears. 

I met with these lines in 'The Duke of Milan' (Massinger), whichare very applicable to the Duke in his dealings with his Cabinetand his old friends the Tories:--

 You never heard the motives that induced him To this strange course? No; these are cabinet councils, And not to be communicated but To such as are his own and sure. Alas! We fill up empty places, and in public Are taught to give our suffrages to that Which was before determined. 

March 1st, 1829 {p. 178}

As the time draws near for the development of the plans ofGovernment a good deal of uneasiness and doubt prevails, thoughthe general disposition is to rely on the Duke of Wellington'sfirmness and decision and to hope for the best. Peel's defeat atOxford, [3] though not likely to have any effect on the generalmeasure, is unlucky, because it serves to animate the anti-Catholics;and had he succeeded, his success would have gone far to silence, as it must have greatly discouraged, them. Then the King givesthe Ministers uneasiness, for the Duke of Cumberland has beentampering with him, and through the agency of Lord Farnboroughgreat attempts have been made to induce him to throw obstacles inthe way of the measures. He is very well inclined, and there isnothing false or base he would not do if he dared, but he is sucha coward, and stands in such awe of the Duke, that I don't thinkanything serious is to be apprehended from him. There never wasanything so mismanaged as the whole affair of Oxford. First theletter Peel wrote was very injudicious; it was a tender ofresignation, which being received just after the vote ofConvocation, they were obliged to accept it. Then he shouldnever have stood unless he had been sure of success, and itappears now that his canvass never promised well from thebeginning. He should have taken the Chiltern Hundreds, andimmediately informed them that he had done so. Probably noopposition would have been made, but after having accepted hisresignation they could not avoid putting up another man. Itappears that an immense number of parsons came to vote of whoseintentions both parties were ignorant, and they almost all votedfor Inglis. 

 [3] [Upon the 4th of February Mr. Peel resigned his seat for the University of Oxford, in consequence of the change of his opinions on the Catholic question. A contest ensued, Sir Robert Harry Inglis being the candidate opposed to Peel. Inglis was returned by a majority of 146. Mr. Peel sat for the borough of Westbury during the ensuing debates. ]

[Page Head: SIR E. CODRINGTON AND THE DUKE. ]

Codrington was at Brookes' yesterday, telling everybody who wouldlisten to him what had passed at an interview, that I havementioned before, with the Duke of Wellington, and how ill theDuke had treated him. He said the Duke assured him that neitherhe nor any of his colleagues, nor the Government collectively, had any sort of hostility to him, but, on the contrary, regardedhim as a very meritorious officer, &c. He then said, 'May I, then, ask why I was recalled?' The Duke said, 'Because you didnot understand your instructions in the sense in which they wereintended by us. ' He replied that he had understood them in theirplain obvious sense, and that everybody else who had seen themunderstood them in the same way--Adam, Ponsonby, Guilleminot, &c. --and then he asked the Duke to point out the passages inwhich they differed, to which he said, 'You must excuse me. ' Allthis he was telling, and it may be very true, and that he is veryill-used; but if he means to bring his case before Parliament, heis unwise to chatter about it at Brookes', particularly to LordLynedoch, to whom he was addressing himself, who is not likely totake part with him against the Duke. 

March 2nd, 1829 {p. 179}

Saw M---- yesterday; he has been at Windsor for several days, andconfirmed all that I had heard before about the King. The Duke ofCumberland has worked him into a state of frenzy, and he talks ofnothing but the Catholic question in the most violent strain. M---- told me that his Majesty desired him to tell his householdthat he wished them to vote against the Bill, which M---- ofcourse refused to do. I asked him if he had told the Duke ofWellington this; he said he had not, but that the day theMinisters came to Windsor for the Council (Thursday last, Ithink) he did speak to Peel, and told him the King's violence wasquite alarming. Peel said he was afraid the King was greatlyexcited, or something to this effect, but seemed embarrassed andnot very willing to talk about it. The result, however, was thatthe Duke went to him on Friday, and was with him six hours, andspoke to his Majesty so seriously and so firmly that he will nowbe quiet. Why the Duke does not insist upon his not seeing theDuke of Cumberland I cannot imagine. There never was such a man, or behaviour so atrocious as his--a mixture of narrow-mindedness, selfishness, truckling, blustering, and duplicity, with no objectbut self, his own ease, and the gratification of his own fanciesand prejudices, without regard to the advice and opinion of thewisest and best informed men or to the interests and tranquillityof the country. 

March 3rd, 1829 {p. 180}

Called on H. De Ros yesterday morning, who told me that the Dukeof Cumberland and his party are still active and very sanguine. Madame de Lieven is in all his confidence, who, out of hatred tothe Duke, would do anything to contribute to his overthrow. TheDuke of Cumberland tells her everything, and makes her a mediumof communication with the Huskisson party, who, being animated bysimilar sentiments towards the Duke, the Tories think wouldgladly join them in making a party when the way is clear forthem. The Chancellor went to Windsor on Sunday, and on toStrathfieldsaye at night, where he arrived at three in themorning. Yesterday the Duke came to town, but called at Windsoron his way. Dawson, however, told me that he believed the Duke in_his_ interview on Friday had settled everything with the King, and had received most positive assurances from him that nofurther difficulties should be made; but it is quite impossibleto trust him. 

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

March 4th, 1829 {p. 180}

Nothing could exceed the consternation which prevailed yesterdayabout this Catholic business. The advocates of the Bill andfriends of Government were in indescribable alarm, and notwithout good cause. All yesterday it was thought quite uncertainwhether the Duke's resignation would not take place, and theChancellor himself said that nothing was more likely than thatthey should all go out. On Sunday the King sent for theChancellor; he went, and had an audience in which the Kingpretended that he had not been made aware of all the provisionsof the Bill, that the securities did not satisfy him, and that hecould not consent to it. The Chancellor could do nothingwith him; so instead of returning to town he went on toStrathfieldsaye, where the Duke was gone to receive the Judges. There he arrived at three in the morning, had a conference of twohours with the Duke, and returned to town quite exhausted, to bein the House of Lords at ten in the morning. The Duke called atWindsor on his way to town on Monday, and had a conversation withthe King, in which he told him it was now impossible for him torecede, and that if his Majesty made any more difficulties hemust instantly resign. The King said he thought he would notdesert him under any circumstances, and tried in vain to movehim, which not being able to do, he said that he must take a dayto consider his final determination, and would communicate it. This he did yesterday afternoon, and he consented to let the Billgo on. There was a Cabinet in the morning, and another in theevening, the latter about the details of the Bill, for FrancisLeveson and Doherty were both present. 

I met Lord Grey at dinner, and in the evening at Brookes' had agreat deal of conversation with Scarlett, Duncannon, and SpringRice. They are all much alarmed, and think the case full ofdifficulties, not only from the violence and wavering of theKing, but from the great objections which so many people have tothe alteration of the elective franchise. Duncannon says nothingshall induce him to support it, and he would rather defeat thewhole measure than consent to it; Spring Rice, on the contrary, is ready to swallow anything to get Emancipation. The object ofthe anti-Catholics is to take advantage of this disunion and ofthe various circumstances which throw difficulties in the way ofGovernment, and they think, by availing themselves of themdexterously, they will be able to defeat the measure. They allseem to think that the Oxford election has been attended withmost prejudicial effects to the cause. It has served for anargument to the Cumberland faction with the King, and hasinfluenced his Majesty very much. 

Huskisson made a speech last night which must put an end to anyhopes of assistance to the Opposition from him and his party, which it is probable they looked to before, and I dare say theDuke of Cumberland has held out such hopes to the King. Thecorrespondence between the Duke of Wellington and the Duke ofCumberland was pretty violent, I believe, but the Duke ofCumberland misrepresents what passed both in it and at theirinterview. He declared to the Duke that he would not interfere inany manner, but refused to leave the country; to Madame de Lievenhe said that the Duke had tried everything--entreaties, threats, and bribes--but that he had told him he would not go away, andwould do all he could to defeat his measures, and that if he wereto offer him £100, 000 to go to Calais he would not take it. Thedegree of agitation, alternate hopes and fears, and excitement ofevery kind cannot be conceived unless seen and mixed in as I seeand mix in it. Spring Rice said last night he thought those nextfour days to come would be the most important in the history ofthe country of any for ages past, and so they are. I was toldlast night that Knighton has been co-operating with the Duke ofCumberland, and done a great deal of mischief, and that he hasreason to think that K. Is intriguing deeply, with the design ofexpelling the Conyngham family from Windsor. This I do notbelieve, and it seems quite inconsistent with what I am alsotold--that the King's dislike of Knighton, and his desire ofgetting rid of him, is just the same, and that no day passes thathe does not offer Mount Charles Knighton's place, and, what ismore, that Knighton presses him to take it. 

March 5th, 1829 {p. 182}

Great alarm again yesterday because the Duke, the Chancellor, andPeel went down to Windsor again. Dined at Prince Lieven's. In theevening we learned that everything was settled--that as soon asthe King found the Duke would really leave him unless he gaveway, he yielded directly, and that if the Duke had told him so atfirst he would not have made all this bother. The Duke ofCumberland was there (at Lieven's), but did not stay long. I satnext to Matuscewitz (the Russian who is come over on a specialmission to assist Lieven), and asked him if he did not think wewere a most extraordinary people, and seeing all that goes on, ashe must do, without any prejudices about persons or things, if itwas not marvellous to behold the violence which prevailed in theCatholic discussion. He owned that it was inconceivable, and, notwithstanding all he had heard and read of our history for someyears past, he had no idea that so much rage and animosity couldhave been manifested and that the anti-Popery spirit was still sovigorous. The day, however, is at last arrived, and to-night themeasure will be introduced. But the Duke of Cumberland and hisfaction by no means abandon all hopes of being able to throw overthe Bill in its progress, and they will leave no stone unturnedto effect their purpose and to work on the King's mind while itis going on. 

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

March 6th, 1829

Peel brought on the Catholic question last night in a speech offour hours, and said to be far the best he ever made. It is fullof his never-failing fault, egotism, but certainly very able, plain, clear, and statesmanlike, and the peroration veryeloquent. The University of Oxford should have been there in abody to hear the member they have rejected and him whom they havechosen in his place. The House was crammed to suffocation, andthe lobby likewise. The cheering was loud and frequent, and oftenburst upon the impatient listener without. I went to Brookes' andfound them all just come from the House, full of satisfaction atPeel's speech and the liberality of the measure, and in greatadmiration of Murray's. The general disposition seemed to be tosupport both the Bills, and they argued justly who said thatthose who would have supported the whole measure if it had beenin one Bill ought not to take advantage of there being two tooppose the one they dislike. The part that is the most objectionableis making the measure so far prospective ('hereafter to beelected') as to exclude O'Connell from Clare, more particularlyafter the decision of the Committee in his favour. Six weeks agoMrs. Arbuthnot told me that it was intended to exclude him, but Idid not believe her. It seemed to me too improbable, and I neverthought more about it. If they persist in this it is nothingshort of madness, and I agree with Spring Rice, who said lastnight that instead of excluding him you should pay him to comeinto Parliament, and rather buy a seat for him than let himremain out. If they keep him out it can only be from wretchedmotives of personal spite, and to revenge themselves on him forhaving compelled them to take the course they have adopted. Theimprudence of this exception is obvious, for when pacification isyour object, and to heal old wounds your great desire, why beginby opening new ones and by exasperating the man who has thegreatest power of doing mischief and creating disturbance anddiscontent in Ireland? It is desirable to reconcile the Irish tothe measures of disfranchisement, and to allow as much time aspossible to elapse before the new system comes into practicaloperation. By preventing O'Connell from taking his seathis wrongs are identified with those of the disfranchisedfreeholders. He will have every motive for exasperating thepublic mind and exciting universal dissatisfaction, and therewill be another Clare election, and a theatre for the display ofevery angry passion which interest or revenge can possibly put inaction. It is remarkable that attacks, I will not say upon theChurch, but upon Churchmen, are now made in both Houses with muchapprobation. The Oxford parsons behaved so abominably at theelection that they have laid themselves open to the severeststrictures, and last night Lord Wharncliffe in one House andMurray in the other commented on the general conduct of Churchmenat this crisis with a severity which was by no means displeasingexcept to the bishops. I am convinced that very few years willelapse before the Church will really be in danger. People willgrow tired of paying so dearly for so bad an article. 

[Page Head: DIVISION ON THE CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

March 8th, 1829 {p. 185}

Yesterday the list came out of those who had voted on theCatholic question, by which it appeared that several people hadvoted against the Government (particularly all the Lowthers) whowere expected to vote with them, and of course this will be atest by which the Duke's strength and absoluteness may be tried, so much so that it is very generally thought that if he permitsthem to vote with impunity he will lose the question. It was saidin the evening that Lowther and Birkett had resigned, but LordAberdeen, whom I met at dinner, said they had not at five o'clockyesterday evening. It is, I think, impossible for the Duke toexcuse anybody who votes against him or stays away. Dined at AgarEllis's and met Harrowbys, Stanleys, Aberdeen, &c. Lord Harrowbythought Peel's speech extremely able and judicious. He said thatLord Eldon had asserted that Mr. Pitt's opinions had been changedon this question, which was entirely false, for he had been muchmore intimate with Mr. Pitt than Lord Eldon ever was, and hadrepeatedly discussed the question with him, and had never foundthe slightest alteration in his sentiments. He had deprecatedbringing it on because at that moment he was convinced that itwould have driven the King mad and raised a prodigious ferment inEngland. He talked a great deal of Fox and Pitt, and said thatthe natural disposition of the former was to arbitrary power andthat of the latter to be a reformer, so that circumstances droveeach into the course the other was intended for by nature. LordNorth's letter to Fox when he dismissed him in 1776 was, 'TheKing has ordered a new commission of the Treasury to be made out, in which I do not see your name. ' How dear this cost him and whatan influence that note may have had on the affairs of the countryand on Fox's subsequent life! They afterwards talked of the'Cateatonenses' written by Canning, Frere, and G. Ellis. LadyMorley has a copy, which I am to see. [4]

 [4] [The 'Musae Cateatonenses, ' a burlesque narrative of a supposed expedition of Mr. George Legge to Cateaton Street in search of a Swiss chapel. Nothing can be more droll. The only copy I have seen is still at Saltram. This _jeu d'esprit_ (which fills a volume) was composed by Canning and his friends one Easter recess they spent at Ashbourne. ]

March 9th, 1829 {p. 186}

It was reported last night that there had been a compromise withLowther, who is to retain his seat and to vote for the Bill inall its other stages. But he dined at Crockford's, and toldsomebody there that he had tendered his resignation and hadreceived no answer. I do not understand this indecision; theymust deprive those who will not support them thoroughly. 'Thorough, ' as Laud and Strafford used to say, must be theirword. 

_Evening. _--I asked Lord Bathurst to-day if Lowther, &c. , wereout, and he said nothing had been done about it, that there wasplenty of time. Afterwards met Mrs. Arbuthnot in the Park, andturned back with her. She was all against their being turned out, from which I saw that they are to stay in. We met Gosh, and Iwalked with them to the House of Commons. We renewed the subject, and he said that he had been just as much as I could be for theadoption of strong measures, but that the great object was tocarry the Bill, and if the Duke did not act with the greatestprudence and caution it would still be lost. He hinted that thedifficulties with the King are still great, and that he is in astate of excitement which alarms them lest he should go mad. Itis pretty clear that the Duke cannot venture to turn them out. Inthe meantime the Duke of Cumberland continues at work. LordBathurst told me that he went to Windsor on Saturday, that he hadassured the King that great alarm prevailed in London, that thepeople were very violent, and that the Duke had been hissed bythe mob in going to the House of Lords, all of which of course hebelieves. The Duke is very unwell. I think matters do not look atall well, and I am alarmed. 

[Page Head: CATHOLIC RELIEF BILL. ]

March 11th, 1829 {p. 186}

The Duke was much better yesterday, went to the House, and made avery good and stirring speech in answer to Lord Winchelsea, whodisgusted all his own party by announcing himself an advocate forreform in Parliament. It is now clear that Lowther, &c. , are notto quit their places unless something fresh occurs. The reasonsupposed is that the King supports them, and that the Duke doesnot venture to insist on their dismissal. The real reason is thathe has got an idea that the Whigs want to make him quarrel withhis old friends in order to render him more dependent upon them, and he is therefore anxious (as he thinks he can) to carrythrough the measure without quarrelling with anybody, so that hewill retain the support of the Tories and show the Whigs that hecan do without them, a notion which is unfounded, besides beingboth unwise and illiberal. He has already given some persons tounderstand that they _must_ support him on this question, and nowhe is going to grant a dispensation to others, nor is there anynecessity for _quarrelling_ with anybody. Lowther himselfevidently felt that he could not hold his office and oppose themeasure, and consequently resigned. The Duke might accept hisresignation with a very friendly explanation on the subject;eventually he would be certain to join Government again, for towhat other party could he betake himself? These great Toryborough-mongering Lords have no taste for opposition. Arbuthnottold my father that this was his feeling, and when I told Mrs. Arbuthnot what a bad moral effect the Duke's lenity had, shesaid, 'Oh, you hear that from the Opposition. ' Last night in hisspeech, when he said he had the cordial support of his Majesty, he turned round with energy to the Duke of Cumberland. SeveralPeers upon one pretext or another have withdrawn the support theyhad intended to give to the Duke's Bill. Fourteen Irish bishopsare coming over in a body to petition the King against this Bill, and most foolish they. The English bishops may by possibility besincere and disinterested in their opposition (not that I believethey are), but nobody will ever believe that the Irish think ofanything but their scandalous revenues. The thing must go; theonly question is when and how. The Kent petition to the King isto be presented, I believe, by Lords Winchelsea and Bexley; theywould not entrust it to Peel. Lord W. Wanted to march down toWindsor at the head of 25, 000 men. 

March 14th, 1829 {p. 188}

Arbuthnot told the Duke what was said about not turning out therefractory members, and he replied, 'I have undertaken thisbusiness, and I am determined to go through with it. Nobody knowsthe difficulties I have in dealing with my royal master, andnobody knows him so well as I do. I will succeed, but I am as ina field of battle, and I must fight it out my own way. ' Thiswould be very well if there were not other motives mixed up withthis--jealousy of the Whigs and a desire to keep clear of them, and quarrel with them again when this is over. Herries told HydeVilliers that _their_ policy was conservative, that of the Whigssubversive, and that they never could act together. All false, for nobody's policy is subversive who has much to lose, and theWhigs comprise the great mass of property and a great body of thearistocracy of the country. Nobody seems to doubt that the Billwill pass. The day before yesterday the Duke of Newcastle went toWindsor and had an audience. Lord Bathurst told me that they hadreason to believe his Grace had told the King his own sentimentson the Catholic question, but that the King had made no answer. But as nobody was present they could not depend on the truth ofthis (which they had from his Majesty himself, of course), and hebegged me to find out what account the Duke gave of it. 

March 15th, 1829 {p. 188}

The Duke of Newcastle was with the King an hour and a half or twohours. After he had presented his petitions he pulled out apaper, which he read to the King. His Majesty made him no answer, and desired him if he had any other communications to make to himto send them through the Duke of Wellington. I dare say this istrue, not because he says so, but because there has been nonotice taken of the Duke's visit in any of the newspapers. Theynow talk of thirteen bishops, and probably more, voting withGovernment. I suppose the majority will be very large. 

[Page Head: PERSONAL HABITS OF GEORGE IV. ]

March 16th to 17th, 1829

I received a message from the King, to tell me that he was sorryI had not dined with him the last time I was at Windsor, that hehad intended to ask me, but finding that all the Ministers dinedthere except Ellenborough, he had let me go, that Ellenboroughmight not be the only man not invited, and 'he would be damned ifEllenborough ever should dine in his house. ' I asked LordBathurst afterwards, to whom I told this, why he hated Ellenborough, and he said that something he had said during the Queen's trialhad given the King mortal offence, and he never forgave it. TheKing complains that he is tired to death of all the people abouthim. He is less violent about the Catholic question, tired ofthat too, and does not wish to hear any more about it. He leads amost extraordinary life--never gets up till six in the afternoon. They come to him and open the window curtains at six or seveno'clock in the morning; he breakfasts in bed, does whateverbusiness he can be brought to transact in bed too, he reads everynewspaper quite through, dozes three or four hours, gets up intime for dinner, and goes to bed between ten and eleven. Hesleeps very ill, and rings his bell forty times in the night; ifhe wants to know the hour, though a watch hangs close to him, hewill have his _valet de chambre_ down rather than turn his headto look at it. The same thing if he wants a glass of water; hewon't stretch out his hand to get it. His valets are nearlydestroyed, and at last Lady Conyngham prevailed on him to agreeto an arrangement by which they wait on him on alternate days. The service is still most severe, as on the days they are inwaiting their labours are incessant, and they cannot take offtheir clothes at night, and hardly lie down. He is in goodhealth, but irritable, and has been horribly annoyed by othermatters besides the Catholic affair. 

March 18th, 1829 {p. 189}

I was at Windsor for the Council and the Recorder's report. Wewaited above two hours; of course his Majesty did not get up tillwe were all there. A small attendance in Council--the Duke, Bathurst, Aberdeen, Melville, and I think no other CabinetMinister. I sent for Batchelor, the King's _valet de chambre_, and had a pretty long conversation with him; he talked as if thewalls had ears, but was anxious to tell me everything. Heconfirmed all I had before heard of the King's life, and said hewas nearly dead of it, that he was in high favour, and the Kinghad given him apartments in the Lodge and some presents. HisMajesty has been worried to death, and has not yet made up hismind to the Catholic Bill (this man knows, I'll be bound). Butwhat he most dwelt on was Sir William Knighton. I said to himthat the King was afraid of the Duke. He replied he thought not;he thought he was afraid of nobody but of Knighton, that he hatedhim, but that his influence and authority were without any limit, that he could do anything, and without him nothing could be done;that after him Lady Conyngham was all-powerful, but in entiresubserviency to him; that she did not dare have anybody to dinethere without previously ascertaining that Knighton would notdisapprove of it; that he knew everything, and nobody dared sayor do a thing of any sort without his permission. There was asort of mysterious awe with which he spoke of Knighton, mixedwith dislike, which was curious. He is to call on me when hecomes to London, and will, I dare say, tell me more. Returned totown at night, and heard of Sadler's speech[5] and read it. It iscertainly very clever, but better as reported than as it wasdelivered. He sent the report to the 'Morning Journal' himself, and added some things and omitted others, and thereby improvedit. He is sixty-seven years old, and it is his maiden speech;certainly very remarkable and indicative of much talent. LordHarrowby told me he heard it, and was greatly struck by it. 

 [5] [Mr. Sadler, who had never sat in Parliament before, was returned by the Duke of Newcastle at this time for the express purpose of opposing the Catholic Relief Bill, which he did with considerable ability. ]

[Page Head: DEBATE ON THE CATHOLIC BILL. ]

March 19th, 1829 {p. 190}

Last night the debate ended, with a very excellent speech fromRobert Grant, [6] and a speech from Lord Palmerston whichastonished everybody. The Attorney-General was violent andbrutal, and Peel's reply very good; he was bursting with passion, but restrained himself. I met Tierney, and told him that therewas great disappointment that he had not answered Sadler. He saidhe could not speak for coughing, that Sadler's speech was clever, but over-rated, nothing like so good as they talked of. RobertGrant's was very good indeed, the best for matter; Palmerston'sthe most brilliant, 'an imitation of Canning, and not a bad one. 'Though the Opposition gained eight in this division, they aredisappointed and disheartened, and will make but little fight onthe other stages (as it is thought). Nine bishops are to vote. The meeting at Lambeth took place the day before yesterday, butit came to nothing. They separated agreeing to meet again, and inthe meantime that each should take his own line. Tierney talkedof the Duke's management of this business with great admiration, as did Lord Durham last night in the same strain; but after allwhat was it but the resolution of secresy (which I think was amost wise and judicious one)? for he did nothing but keep thesecret. However, the thing has been well imagined and wellexecuted. Tierney thinks Peel will resign when it is all over, and at his father's death will be made a Peer. I should notwonder; he must be worn to death with the torrents of abuse andinvective with which his old friends assail him on everyoccasion. I presume that if he could have anticipated theirconduct he would not have been so civil to them in the beginning, and would have taken another turn altogether; it would have beenbetter for him. Lady Worcester told me to-day what adds to manyother proofs that the Duke is a very _hard_ man; he takes nonotice of any of his family; he never sees his mother, has onlyvisited her two or three times in the last few years; and has notnow been to see Lady Anne, though she has been in such afflictionfor the death of her only son, and he passes her door every timehe goes to Strathfieldsaye. He is well with Lady Maryborough, though they quarrelled after Lord M. Was driven from the Cabinet;Lord Wellesley is seriously affronted with him at the littleconsideration the Duke shows for him, and for having shown him noconfidence in all this business, especially as the Catholicquestion was the only political difference that existed betweenthem. He is a very extraordinary man certainly, and with manycontradictions in his character; in him, however, they are somuch more apparent than in any other man, for he is always beforethe world--all his actions, his motives, and even his thoughts. 

 [6] [Robert Grant, Esq. , M. P. , brother of Mr. Charles Grant. He was afterwards appointed Governor of Bombay. ]

[Page Head: DUEL OF THE DUKE AND LORD WINCHELSEA. ]

March 21st, 1829, at night {p. 192}

This morning the Duke fought a duel with Lord Winchelsea. Nothingcould equal the astonishment caused by this event. Everybody ofcourse sees the matter in a different light; all blame Lord W. , but they are divided as to whether the Duke ought to have foughtor not. Lord W. 's letter appeared last Monday, and certainly fromthat time to this it never entered into anybody's head that theDuke ought to or would take it up, though the expressions in itwere very impertinent. But Lord Winchelsea is such a maniac, andhas so lost his head (besides the ludicrous incident of thehandkerchief[7]), that everybody imagined the Duke would treatwhat he said with silent contempt. He thought otherwise, however, and without saying a word to any of his colleagues or to anybodybut Hardinge, his second, he wrote and demanded an apology. Aftermany letters and messages between the parties (Lord Falmouthbeing Lord Winchelsea's second) Lord Winchelsea declined makingany apology, and they met. The letters on the Duke's part arevery creditable, so free from arrogance or an assuming tone;those on Lord Winchelsea's not so, for one of them is a senselessrepetition of the offence, in which he says that if the Duke willdeny that his allegations are true he will apologise. They met atWimbledon at eight o'clock. There were many people about, who sawwhat passed. They stood at a distance of fifteen paces. Beforethey began Hardinge went up to Lords Winchelsea and Falmouth, andsaid he must protest against the proceeding, and declare thattheir conduct in refusing an apology when Lord Winchelsea was somuch in the wrong filled him with disgust. The Duke fired andmissed, and then Winchelsea fired in the air. He immediatelypulled out of his pocket the paper which has since appeared, butin which the word 'apology' was omitted. The Duke read it andsaid it would not do. Lord Falmouth said he was not come there toquibble about words, and that he was ready to make the apology inwhatever terms would be satisfactory, and the word 'apology' wasinserted on the ground. The Duke then touched his hat, said 'Goodmorning, my Lords, ' mounted his horse, and rode off. Hume wasthere, without knowing on whose behalf till he got to the ground. Hardinge asked him to attend, and told him where he would find achaise, into which he got. He found there pistols, which told himthe errand he was on, but he had still no notion the Duke wasconcerned; when he saw him he was ready to drop. The Duke went toMrs. Arbuthnot's as soon as he got back, and at eleven o'clockshe wrote a note to Lord Bathurst, telling him of it, which hereceived at the Council board and put into my hands. So littleidea had he of Lord Winchelsea's letter leading to anythingserious that when on Wednesday, at the Council at Windsor, Iasked him if he had read it, he said, laughing, 'Yes, and it is avery clever letter, much the wisest thing he ever did; _he hasgot back his money_. I wish I could find some such pretext to getback mine. ' At twelve o'clock the Duke went to Windsor to tellthe King what had happened. Winchelsea is abused for not havingmade an apology when it was first required; but I think, havingcommitted the folly of writing so outrageous a letter, he did theonly thing a man of honour could do in going out and receiving ashot and then making an apology, which he was all this timeprepared to do, for he had it ready written in his pocket. Ithink the Duke ought not to have challenged him; it was veryjuvenile, and he stands in far too high a position, and his lifeis so much _publica cura_ that he should have treated him and hisletter with the contempt they merited; it was a great error injudgment, but certainly a venial one, for it is impossible not toadmire the high spirit which disdained to shelter itself behindthe immunities of his great character and station, and thesimplicity, and almost humility, which made him at once descendto the level of Lord Winchelsea, when he might, withoutsubjecting himself to any imputation derogatory to his honour, have assumed a tone of lofty superiority and treated him asunworthy of his notice. Still it was beneath his dignity; itlowered him, and was more or less ridiculous. Lord Jersey met himcoming from Windsor, and spoke to him. He said, 'I could not dootherwise, could I?'

 [7] [The incident of the handkerchief is related below, p. 198 (March 29th, 1829). ]

I met the Bishop of Oxford in the Park this morning; he said ninebishops, and probably ten, would vote for the Bill. He said hewas not at the meeting at Lambeth, but the Archbishop sent forhim, and despatched him to the Duke with an account of theirproceedings. The Archbishop summoned the bishops to consult uponthe course they should pursue, and see if there was any chance oftheir acting with unanimity. Finding this was not possible, theyresolved that each should take his own line; and a proposal toaddress the King, which was urged by one or two of the mostviolent (he did not name them), was overruled. The anti-Catholicpapers and men lavish the most extravagant encomiums onWetherell's speech, and call it 'the finest oration everdelivered in the House of Commons, ' 'the best since the secondPhilippic. ' He was drunk, they say. The Speaker said 'the onlylucid interval he had was that between his waistcoat and hisbreeches. ' When he speaks he unbuttons his braces, and in hisvehement action his breeches fall down and his waistcoat runs up, so that there is a great interregnum. He is half mad, eccentric, ingenious, with great and varied information and a coarse, vulgarmind, delighting in ribaldry and abuse, besides being anenthusiast. The first time he distinguished himself was inWatson's trial, when he and Copley were his counsel, and bothmade very able speeches. He was then a trading lawyer andpolitician, till the Queen came over, when he made a verypowerful speech in the House of Commons, full of research, infavour of inserting her name in the Liturgy. He was then engagedby Chancellor Eldon for the Court, soon after made Solicitor-General, much abused for ratting, became Attorney-General, and resignedwhen Canning became Minister. He was restored when the Duke wasmade Prime Minister, and now he will have to retire again. 

[Page Head: THE KING ON THE DUEL. ]

March 26th, 1829 {p. 195}

Everything is getting on very quietly in the House of Commons, and the Opposition are beginning to squabble among themselves, some wishing to create delay, and others not choosing to join inthese tricks, when they know it is useless. The Duke came herethe night before last, but I was not at home. He talked over thewhole matter with his usual simplicity. The King, it seems, washighly pleased with the Winchelsea affair, and he said, 'I didnot see the letter (which is probably a lie); if I had, Icertainly should have thought it my duty to call your attentionto it. ' Somebody added that 'he would be wanting to fight a duelhimself. ' Sefton said, 'he will be sure to think he has foughtone. ' Hume gave the two Lords a lecture on the ground after theduel, and said he did not think there was a man in England whowould have lifted his hand against the Duke. Very uncalled for, but the Duke's friends have less humility than he has, for LordWinchelsea did not lift his hand against him. It is curious thatthe man who threw the bottle at Lord Wellesley in Dublin (and whois a Protestant fanatic) has been lurking constantly about theHouse of Lords, so much so that it was thought right to apprisePeel of it, and the police have been desired in consequence tokeep a strict watch over him, and to take care that he does nomischief. The Duke after the duel sent Lord Melville to the Dukeof Montrose with a message that his son-in-law had behaved verymuch like a gentleman. The women, particularly of course LadyJersey, have been very ridiculous, affecting nervousness and finefeeling, though they never heard of the business till some hoursafter it was over. Mrs. Arbuthnot was not so foolish but madevery light of it all, which was in better sense and better taste. 

M---- told me two days ago that, although he is more quiet, theKing is not at all reconciled to the Catholic question. HisMajesty was very much annoyed at his speech the other day, havingalways hoped that he was at heart too indifferent about it totake a decided line or express publicly a strong opinion. It issupposed that either Sugden or Alderson will be Solicitor-General. O'Connell has done himself great credit by his moderation in theCommittee. Grattan wanted to move an amendment omitting the wordsby which O'Connell is excluded from taking his seat for Clare, when Rice and Duncannon begged him to withdraw it, and said theywere charged with the expression of O'Connell's wish that hisindividual case should not be thought of, as he would not have itbe any impediment to the success of the measure. This, of course, greatly annoys those who have inveighed against him, and who havealways contended that he only wished for confusion, and would bevery sorry to see the question settled. 

The other day Jack Lawless[8] called on Arbuthnot to ask him somequestion about the Deccan prize money, in which a brother of hishas an interest. He entered upon politics, was very obsequious inhis manner, extravagant in praise of the Duke, quite shocked thathe should have fought a duel, and said, 'Sir, we are twelve of ushere, and not one but what would fight for him any day in theweek. ' He said that some years ago, when he heard the Duke speak, he was distressed at his hesitation, but that now he spoke betterthan anyone; that in the Lords he heard Eldon, and Plunket, andGrey, and then up got the Duke and answered everybody, and spokebetter than they all. Arbuthnot says he was bowing and scraping, and all humility and politeness, with none of the undergrowl ofthe Association. 

 [8] [A prominent member of the Catholic Association in Dublin. ]

[Page Head: LORD ELDON'S INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. ]

March 26th, 1829, at night {p. 196}

Just met M----, who had returned that moment from Windsor, wherehe had left the King in such an ill humour that he would not stayand dine there. The Duke of Cumberland never goes there withoutunsettling his mind, and yesterday evening Lord Mansfield hadbeen to the Castle and had an audience. Lord Eldon prevails onall these Peers to exercise their right and demand audiences. Lord Mansfield had no petition to present, and only went toremonstrate about the Catholic question and tell the King thatall the Protestants looked to him to save them from the impendingdanger. The King declares he only listens to what they say, andreplies that he must leave everything to his Ministers; but it isimpossible for him to listen (and not talk himself) for an hourand a quarter together. He is very angry at the Bishop ofWinchester's speech, and at the declaration in favour of the Billby both of the brothers. [9] He accused M---- of having influencedthe Bishop, which he denied, and told him that he would not havebeen biassed by anybody. The King still is in hopes that the Billwill not pass, and said that the Ministers had only a majority offive, and with that they would not carry it through. M----replied that they had above fifty, and after such a majority asthere had been in the Commons it must pass. All this he receivedas sulkily as possible, and it is clear that if he dared, and ifhe could, he would still defeat the measure. His dislike to it isthe opposition of a spoiled child, founded on considerationspurely personal and selfish and without any reason whatever. 

 [9] [The two Sumners. Dr. John Bird Sumner (afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury) had been raised to the see of Chester in 1828. They owed their advancement to the especial favour of George IV. The bishop adverted to in the next sentence was the Bishop of Winchester. ]

March 29th, 1829, at night {p. 197}

Dined at Lady Sandwich's, and met Madame de Lieven, who is grownvery gracious, craving for news, and probably very malignant. Lieven told me (which she did not) that Lord Eldon was with theKing yesterday for four hours. She confirmed it after dinner, andsaid that Halford had told her, but added that he had done noharm. [10] Lieven also told me that Stratford Canning is cominghome, and Robert Gordon going to Constantinople. He is a dull, heavy man, and not able, I should think, to cope with the TurkishMinisters, if they are (as the Duke says) the ablest diplomatistsin Europe. I don't know why Stratford Canning is coming home, whether _nolens_ or _volens_. 

 [10] [This was the celebrated interview related in Lord Eldon's 'Memoirs' vol. Iii. , when, however, the King gave Lord E. A very erroneous account of the transaction, subsequently corrected by Sir Robert Peel in his 'Memoirs. ']

I have, I see, alluded to Lord Winchelsea's handkerchiefstory, [11] but have not mentioned the circumstances, which I mayas well do. Lord Holland came home one night from the House ofLords, and as soon as he had occasion to blow his nose pulled hishandkerchief out of his pocket; upon which my Lady exclaimed (shehates perfumes), 'Good God, Lord H. , where did you get thathandkerchief? Send it away directly. ' He said he did not know, when it was inspected, and the letter _W_ found on it. Lord H. Said, 'I was sitting near Lord Winchelsea, and it must be his, which I took up by mistake and have brought home. ' Accordinglythe next day he sent it to Lord Winchelsea with his compliments. Lord Winchelsea receiving the handkerchief and the message, andfinding it marked _W_, fancied it was the Duke's, and that it wassent to him by way of affronting him; on which he went to theDuke of Newcastle and imparted to him the circumstances, anddesired him to wait on Lord Holland for an explanation. This hisGrace did, when the matter was cleared up and the handkerchiefwas found to be the property of Lord Wellesley. The next day LordWinchelsea came up laughing to Lord Holland in the House ofLords, and said he had many apologies to make for what hadpassed, but that he really was in such a state of excitement hedid not know what he said and did. [12]

 [11] [_Supra_, p. 192 (March 21st, 1829). ]

 [12] [Lord Winchelsea was in the habit of flourishing a white pocket handkerchief while he was speaking in the House of Lords. This peculiarity; associated with his sonorous tones, his excited action, and his extravagant opinions, gave point to the incident. ]

[Page Head: DEBATE ON THE CATHOLIC BILL. ]

April 4th, 1829 {p. 198}

On the third reading of the Catholic Bill in the House of CommonsSadler failed, and Palmerston made a speech like one ofCanning's. The Bill has been two nights in the House of Lords. They go on with it this morning, and will divide this evening. The Chancellor made a very fine speech last night, and the Bishopof Oxford spoke very well the night before, but the debate hasbeen dull on the whole; the subject is exhausted. The House ofLords was very full, particularly of women; every fool in Londonthinks it necessary to be there. It is only since last year thatthe steps of the throne have been crowded with ladies; formerlyone or two got in, who skulked behind the throne, or were hid inTyrwhitt's box, but now they fill the whole space, and putthemselves in front with their large bonnets, without either fearor shame. 

April 5th, 1829 {p. 199}

The question was put at a little before twelve last night, andcarried by 105--217 to 112 (a greater majority than the mostsanguine expected)--after a splendid speech from Lord Grey and avery good one from Lord Plunket. Old Eldon was completely beat, and could make no fight at all; his speech was wretched, theysay, for I did not hear it. This tremendous defeat will probablyput an end to anything like serious opposition; they will hardlyrally again. 

I dined at Chesterfield House, but nobody came to dinner. Chesterfield and his party were all at the House of Lords. Ifound myself almost alone with Vesey Fitzgerald, with whom I hadmuch talk after dinner. He said that it would be a long timebefore all the circumstances and all the difficulties relating totheir proceedings were known, but when they were it would be seenhow great had been the latter, how curious the former; that theday the Chancellor, the Duke, and Peel were with the King theyactually were out (all of which I knew), and that he believes ifthe other party could have made a Government with a chance ofstanding, out they would have gone; but that it was put to them(this I did not know), and they acknowledged they could not. Theyheld consultations on the subject, and the man they principallyrelied on was the Duke of Richmond; they meant he should beeither First Lord of the Treasury or Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Lord Winchelsea said to Ellenborough, 'Why, he speaks better thanthe Duke of Wellington any day. ' He happens to have his wits, such as they are, about him, and has been quick and neat inone or two little speeches, though he spoke too often, andparticularly in his attack on the Bishop of Oxford the othernight. Last year, on the Wool question, he did very well, but allthe details were got up for him by George Bentinck, [13] who tookthe trouble. Besides, his fortune consists in great measure ofwool, he lives in the country, is well versed in rural affairsand the business of the quarter sessions, has a certain calibreof understanding, is prejudiced, narrow-minded, illiterate, andignorant, good-looking, good-humoured, and unaffected, tedious, prolix, unassuming, and a duke. There would not have been so muchto say about him if they had not excited an idea in the minds ofsome people of making him Prime Minister and successor to theDuke of Wellington. 

 [13] [It deserves remark that Lord George Bentinck was thus early employing his singular talents in mastering details, although he took no conspicuous part in politics until the proposal for the repeal of the Corn Law in 1845. ]

[Page Head: THE BILL IN JEOPARDY. ]

Vesey told me that Dawson's speech at Derry very nearlyoverturned the whole design. The King heard of it the day of aCouncil at Windsor (which I well remember). The Chancellor waswith him for a long time, but it was almost impossible topersuade the King that Dawson knew nothing of the intention ofthe Government, and that his speech was not made in concert withPeel and the Duke. This it was which caused them such excessiveannoyance, because it raised difficulties which well-nighprevented the accomplishment of the design. It must be owned thatthe King might well believe this, and although it is very certainthat Dawson knew nothing, and that his making such a speech oughtto have been a proof that he was in ignorance, it will always bebelieved that he was aware of the intended measure, and that hisspeech was made with the Duke's concurrence. It is curious enoughthat his opinion had been long changed, and that he had intendedto pronounce his recantation when Brownlow did, but as Brownlowgot the start of him he would not. For two years after this hepersevered in the old course, and when Canning came in, and theCatholic question was the great field on which he was to befought, Dawson reverted vigorously to his old opinions, and spokevehemently against emancipation. Such is party!

The circumstances that Vesey talked of are in fact pretty wellknown or guessed at, nor has there ever been any secret as to themain fact of the King's opposition and dislike to the measure. Hetold me that after Eldon's visit of four hours the Dukeremonstrated, and told the King what great umbrage it gave hisMinisters to see and hear of these long and numerous interviewswith their opponents. The King declared that he said nothing andthat nothing passed calculated to annoy them, which they none ofthem believed, but of course could make no reply to. 

April 8th, 1829 {p. 200}

I have mentioned above (March 4th[14]), p. 180, the Chancellor, the Duke, and Peel going to the King, and the alarm thatprevailed here. That day the Catholic question was in greatjeopardy. They went to tell the King that unless he would givethem his real, efficient support, and not throw his indirectinfluence into the opposite scale, they would resign. He refusedto give them that support; they placed their resignations in hishands and came away. The King then sent to Eldon, and asked himif he would undertake to form a Government. He deliberated (thenit was that it was question of the Duke of Richmond being FirstLord or Lord-Lieutenant), but eventually said he could notundertake it. On his refusal the King yielded, and the Bill wenton; but if Eldon had accepted, the Duke and his colleagues wouldhave been out, and God knows what would have happened. It was, ofcourse, of all these matters that the King talked to Eldon in thelong interview they had the other day. He is very sulky at thegreat majority in the House of Lords, as I knew he would be. 

 [14] [It was on the 3rd of March that this interview took place, as related by Sir R. Peel himself in his 'Memoir' (vol. I. P. 343). The King asked his Ministers to explain the details of the measure they proposed to bring in. They informed his Majesty that it would be necessary to modify in the case of the Roman Catholics that part of the oath of supremacy which relates to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction and supremacy of the Pope. To this the King said he could not possibly consent. Upon this Mr. Peel and his colleagues informed his Majesty that they must resign. His Majesty accepted the resignations, and the Ministers returned to London (after an audience of five hours) under the full persuasion that the Government was dissolved. In the interval some attempt was made to form a Protestant Cabinet; but on the evening of the following day, the 4th of March, the King wrote a letter to the Duke of Wellington, informing him that his Majesty anticipated so much difficulty in the attempt to form another Administration that he could not dispense with his Ministers' services, and that they were at liberty to proceed with the measures of which notice had been given in Parliament. ]

Lady Jersey is in a fury with Lord Anglesey, and goes aboutsaying he insulted her in the House of Lords the other night. Shewas sitting on one of the steps of the throne, and the Duchess ofRichmond on the step above. After Lord Anglesey had spoken hecame to talk to the Duchess, who said, 'How well you did speak;'on which he said, 'Hush! you must take care what you say, forhere is Lady Jersey, and she reports for the newspapers;' onwhich Lady Jersey said very angrily, 'Lady Jersey is here for herown amusement; what do you mean by reporting for newspapers?' towhich he replied with a profound bow, 'I beg your Ladyship'spardon; I did not mean to offend you, and if I did I beg to makethe most ample apology. ' This is his version; hers, of course, isdifferent. He says that he meant the whole thing as a joke. Itwas a very bad joke if it was one, and as he knows how she abuseshim, one may suspect that there was something more than joking init. 

The other night Lord Grey had called Lord Falmouth to order, andafter the debate Falmouth came up to him with a menacing air andsaid, 'My Lord Grey, I wish to inform you that if upon any futureoccasion you transgress in the slightest degree the orders of theHouse, I shall most certainly call you to order. ' Lord Grey, whoexpected from his air something more hostile, merely said, 'MyLord, your Lordship will do perfectly right, and whenever I amout of order I hope you will. ' Last night old Eldon got adressing again from the Chancellor. 

[Page Head: O'CONNELL AT DINNER. ]

April 9th, 1829 {p. 202}

Met O'Connell at dinner yesterday at William Ponsonby's. The onlyIrish (agitators) were he and O'Gorman Mahon; ----, he said, wastoo great a blackguard, and he would not invite him. O'Connellarrived from Ireland that day; there is nothing remarkable in hismanner, appearance, or conversation, but he seems lively, wellbred, and at his ease. I asked him after dinner 'whetherCatholics had not taken the oath of supremacy till it was coupledwith the declaration;' he said, 'in many instances in the reignsof Elizabeth, James, and Charles, because at that time it wasconsidered to apply to the civil supremacy of the Pope only, andthat the Government admitted of that interpretation of it, butthat no Catholic could take it now, because that construction isnever given to the oath. ' Duncannon told me that O'Connell has nowish to be in Parliament, that he makes so much money by hisprofession that it is a great loss to him to attend Parliament atall. What they want is a compromise with Vesey Fitzgerald, bywhich he may be admitted to take his seat in this Parliament onan understanding that he will not oppose Vesey in the next; notthat I see how that is to be done, except by an Act of Parliament(which would never pass) in his favour. Besides, the Duke detestshim, and Vesey likewise. They cannot forgive him for all he hasdone and all he has made them do. O'Gorman, the secretary of theCatholic Association, appears a heavy, civil, vulgar man. I satnext to Stanley, who told me a story which amused me. Macintosh, in the course of the recent debates, went one day to the House ofCommons at eleven in the morning to take a place. They were alltaken on the benches below the gangway, and on asking thedoorkeeper how they happened to be all taken so early, he said, 'Oh, sir, there is no chance of getting a place, for ColonelSibthorpe sleeps at a tavern close by, and comes here everymorning by eight o'clock and takes places for all the saints. '

April 13th, 1829 {p. 203}

On Friday last the Catholic Bill was read a third time, after avery dull debate. Lord Eldon attempted to rally, and made a longand wretched speech which lasted two hours. Nobody spoke well. The Duke in his reply dropped all the terms of courtesy andfriendship he had hitherto used in speaking of old Eldon, andbroke off with him entirely. He is disgusted at his oppositionout of doors, and at his having been the constant adviser of theDuke of Cumberland and all the foolish Lords who have beenpestering the King at Windsor; and he is acquainted with all histricks and underhand proceedings, probably with more of them thanwe know of. He thanked the Opposition for their support--thankswhich they well merit from him--but of course nobody issatisfied. He was before accused of ingratitude in never takingnotice of their conduct, and even it is said that he gave them tounderstand he had no more need of their services, and wished tomake them his bow. I don't believe he meant any such thing; heintended to thank them simply, though it is probably true that hedoes not wish to continue in alliance with them, and is anxiousto see the Tories put themselves under his orders again. OnSaturday he sent the commission down to Windsor for the King'ssignature, with other papers as a matter of course; he would notgo himself, that there might be no fresh discussion between them. 

I went on Friday morning to the Old Bailey to hear the trials, particularly that of the women for the murder of the apprentices;the mother was found guilty, and will be hanged to-day--has beenby this time. [15] The case exhibited a shocking scene ofwretchedness and poverty, such as ought not to exist in anycommunity, especially in one which pretends to be so flourishingand happy as this is. It is, I suppose, one case of many whichmay be found in this town, graduating through various stages ofmisery and vice. These wretched beings were described to be inthe lowest state of moral and physical degradation, with scarcelyrags to cover them, food barely sufficient to keep them alive, and working eighteen or nineteen hours a day, without beingpermitted any relaxation, or even the privilege of going tochurch on Sunday. I never heard more disgusting details than thistrial elicited, or a case which calls more loudly for aninvestigation into the law and the system under which suchproceedings are possible. Poverty, and vice, and misery mustalways be found in a community like ours, but such frightfulcontrasts between the excess of luxury and splendour and thesescenes of starvation and brutality ought not to be possible; butI am afraid there is more vice, more misery and penury in thiscountry than in any other, and at the same time greater wealth. The contrasts are too striking, and such an unnatural, artificial, and unjust state of things neither can nor ought to be permanent. I am convinced that before many years elapse these things willproduce some great convulsion. 

 [15] [Two wretched women named Hibner were tried, and one of them convicted for the murder of a parish apprentice named Francis Colepitts by savage ill-treatment. The elder prisoner was found guilty and executed on the 13th of April. No such concourse of people had assembled to witness an execution since that of Fauntleroy. The details of the crime were horrible, and had excited great sympathy for the victim amongst all classes. --_Ann. Regist. For 1829, Chronicle_, p. 71. ]

[Page Head: THEATRICAL FUND DINNER. ]

After the Old Bailey I went and dined at the Covent GardenTheatrical Fund dinner. The Duke of Clarence could not come, sothey put Lord Blessington in the chair, who made an ass ofhimself. Among other toasts he was to give 'The memory of theDuke of York, ' who was the founder of the institution. Heprefaced this with a speech, but gave 'The health, ' &c. , on whichFawcett, who sat opposite, called out in an agony, 'The memory, my Lord!' He corrected himself, but in a minute after said again'The health. ' 'The memory, my Lord!' again roared Fawcett. It wassupremely ridiculous. Francis Leveson sat on his right, Codrington on his left, and Lawless the agitator just opposite;he is a pale, thin, common-looking little man, and has not at allthe air of a patriot orator and agitator. 

May 14th, 1829 {p. 205}

I have been at Newmarket for three weeks, and have had no time towrite, nor has anything particular occurred. The King came totown, and had a levee and drawing-room, the former of which wasvery numerously, the other shabbily attended. At the levee he wasremarkably civil to all the Peers, particularly the Duke ofRichmond, who had distinguished themselves in opposition toGovernment in the late debates, and he turned his back on thebishops who had voted for the Bill. O'Connell and Shiel were bothat the levee; the former had been presented in Ireland, so hadnot to be presented again, but the King took no notice of him, and when he went by said to somebody near him, 'Damn the fellow!what does he come here for?'--dignified. 

There was an odd circumstance the day of the drawing-room. TheDuke of Cumberland, as Gold Stick, gave orders at the HorseGuards that no carriages should be admitted into the Park, andPeel and the Duke of Wellington, when they presented themselveson their way to Court, were refused admission. The officer onguard came to the Duke's carriage and said that such were hisorders, but that he was sure they were not meant to extend to hisGrace, and if he would authorise him he would order the gates tobe opened. The Duke said 'By no means, ' and then desired hiscarriage to go round the other way. Many people thought that thiswas a piece of impertinence of the Duke of Cumberland's, but theDuke says that the whole thing was a mistake. Be this as it may, the Duke of Cumberland and the Duke of Wellington do not speak, and whenever they meet, which often happens in society, theformer moves off. 

Yesterday morning Batchelor called on me, and sat with me for anhour, telling me all sorts of details concerning the interior ofWindsor and St. James's. The King is well in health, except thatsince last September he has been afflicted with a complaint inhis bladder, which both annoys and alarms him very much. There isno appearance of stone or gravel, but violent irritation, whichis only subdued by laudanum, and always returns when the effectof the opiate is gone off. The laudanum, too, disagrees much withhis general health. He is attended by Sir Henry Holland, Brodie, and O'Reilly. Sir A. Cooper, who did attend him, is not nowconsulted, in consequence (Batchelor thinks) of some pettyintrigue in some quarter. This O'Reilly, who has graduallyinsinuated himself into the King's confidence, and by constantlyattending him at Windsor, and bringing him all the gossip andtittle-tattle of the neighbourhood (being on the alert to pick upand retail all he can for the King's amusement), has made himselfnecessary, and is not now to be shaken off, to the greatannoyance of Knighton, who cannot bear him, as well as of all theother people about the King, who hate him for his meddling, mischievous character, The King's _valets de chambre_ sit upalternately, and as he sleeps very ill he rings his bell everyhalf-hour. He talks of everybody and everything before his valetswith great freedom, except of politics, on which he never uttersa word in their presence, and he always sends them away when hesees anybody or speaks on business of any kind. Batchelor thinksthat this new disorder is a symptom of approaching decay, andthat the King thinks so himself. 

[Page Head: LADY CONYNGHAM. ]

In the meantime the influence of Knighton and that of LadyConyngham continue as great as ever; nothing can be done but bytheir permission, and they understand one another and play intoeach other's hands. Knighton opposes every kind of expense, except that which is lavished on her. The wealth she hasaccumulated by savings and presents must be enormous. The Kingcontinues to heap all kinds of presents upon her, and she livesat his expense; they do not possess a servant; even LordConyngham's _valet de chambre_ is not properly their servant. They all have situations in the King's household, from which theyreceive their pay, while they continue in the service of theConynghams. They dine every day while in London at St. James's, and when they give a dinner it is cooked at St. James's andbrought up to Hamilton Place in hackney coaches and in machinesmade expressly for the purpose; there is merely a fire lit intheir kitchen for such things as must be heated on the spot. AtWindsor the King sees very little of her except of an evening; helies in bed half the day or more, sometimes goes out, andsometimes goes to her room for an hour or so in the afternoon, and that is all he sees of her. A more despicable scene cannot beexhibited than that which the interior of our Court presents--every base, low, and unmanly propensity, with selfishness, avarice, and a life of petty intrigue and mystery. 

May 16th, 1829 {p. 207}

O'Connell attempted to take his seat last night, but the businesswas put off till Monday. His case is exceedingly well got up, buttoo long. There are many opinions as to his right; many peoplethink he has established it (though he had failed to do so), thata Bill ought to be brought in to enable him to take the newoaths. It was supposed Government would take no part, but Peel'sspeech and the language of some of the Ministers are ratherunfavourable to him. Lord Grey, when he read the case, thoughthis argument on the tenth clause of the Bill conclusive, but whenhe examined the Bill he thought differently, and that the contextgives a different signification to the words on which O'Connellrelies. Tierney thinks otherwise, and this they debated Bill inhand in Lady Jersey's room yesterday morning. O'Connell was in agreat fright when he went up to the table. He got, through thenecessary forms in the Steward's office by means of theCommissioners whom Duncannon provided, and who were, I believe, Burdett and Ebrington. He ought to be allowed to take his seat, but probably he will not; it is a very hard case. [16] The Duke ofOrleans is come, and his son, the Duke of Chartres; the latterwas at the opera to-night in Prince Leopold's box. 

 [16] [O'Connell was excluded from taking his seat as member for Clare, for which he had been elected before the passing of the Relief Act, because it was held that he was bound to take the oath which was required by law at the time of his election, and not the oath imposed on Roman Catholics by the recent statutes. He presented himself to be sworn at the table of the House of Commons on the 15th of May, and there refused to take the former oath, which was tendered to him by the Clerk. The House divided 100 to 116 against his admission without taking the oath of supremacy on the 18th; Mr. O'Connell having previously been heard at the bar in person in support of his claim. ]

May 29th, 1829 {p. 208}

O'Connell is said to have made a very good speech at the bar ofthe House, and produced rather a favourable impression. He hasdone himself this good, that whereas it was pretty generallythought that he was likely to fail in the House of Commons as aspeaker, he has now altered that impression. There is but oneopinion as to the wretched feeling of excluding him, but thesaddle is put upon the right horse, and though the Government arenow obliged to enforce the provisions of their own Bill, everybody knows that the exclusion was the work of the King. O'Connell goes back to Clare (as he says) sure of his election;there will be a great uproar, but at present nobody expects anyopposition, and all deprecate a contest. 

[Page Head: PRINCESS VICTORIA AT A CHILD'S BALL. ]

Yesterday the King gave a dinner to the Dukes of Orleans andChartres, and in the evening there was a child's ball. It waspretty enough, and I saw for the first time the Queen ofPortugal[17] and our little Victoria. The Queen was finely dressed, with a ribband and order over her shoulder, and she sat by theKing. She is good-looking and has a sensible Austrian countenance. In dancing she fell down and hurt her face, was frightened andbruised, and went away. The King was very kind to her. Our littlePrincess is a short, plain-looking child, and not near sogood-looking as the Portuguese. However, if nature has not doneso much, fortune is likely to do a great deal more for her. TheKing looked very well, and stayed at the ball till two. Therewere very few people, and neither Arbuthnot nor Mrs. A. Wereasked. I suspect this is owing to what passed in the House aboutopening the Birdcage Walk. It puts the King in a fury to haveany such thing mentioned, not having the slightest wish toaccommodate the public, though very desirous of getting money outof their pockets. 

 [17] [Donna Maria II. Da Gloria, Queen of Portugal, on the abdication of her father, Don Pedro, succeeded to the throne on the 2nd of May, 1826. She was born on the 4th of April, 1819, and was consequently but a few weeks older than the Princess Victoria. ]

The day before yesterday there was a review for the Duke ofOrleans, and the Marquis of Anglesey, who was there at the headof his regiment, contrived to get a tumble, but was not hurt. Last night at the ball the King said to Lord Anglesey, 'Why, Paget, what's this I hear? they say you rolled off your horse atthe review yesterday. ' The Duke as he left the ground wasimmensely cheered, and the people thronged about his horse andwould shake hands with him. When Lord Hill went to the King theday before to give him an account of the intended review and thedispositions that had been made, he said, 'Hill, if I can throwmy leg over your Shropshire horse, don't be surprised if you seeme amongst you. '

The new law appointments have just been announced, and havecreated some surprise. [18]

 [18] [The Attorney-General, Sir Charles Wetherell, had resigned in consequence of his violent opposition to the Catholic Relief Bill, and was succeeded by Sir James Scarlett (afterwards Lord Abinger). The Solicitor-General, Sir Nicholas Conyngham Tindal, was raised on the 9th of June to the Chief Justiceship of the Common Pleas; and was succeeded in the Solicitorship by Sir Edward Burtenshaw Sugden (afterwards Lord St. Leonards). The vacancy in the Common Pleas was caused by the resignation of Sir William Draper Best, who was created Lord Wynford for the purpose of assisting the Chancellor with the judicial business of the House of Lords. ]

June 11th, 1829 {p. 210}

I have been at Epsom for a week; the Duke of Grafton, LordsWilton, Jersey, and Worcester, Russell, Anson, Irby, and myselftook Down Hall for the races and lived very well. Nothingparticular has occurred. Lord and Lady Ellenborough areseparated, and he is supposed to have behaved very handsomely toher. They say he does not now know the whole story of herintrigue with Felix Schwarzenberg; that hero is gone to theRussian army. All the new appointments were declared when I wasout of town, and they excited some surprise and more disapprobation. They have made Best a Peer, who is poor and has a family, bywhich another poor peerage will be added to the list; and heis totally unfit for the situation he is to fill--that ofDeputy-Speaker of the House of Lords, and to assist theChancellor in deciding Scotch causes, of which he knows nothingwhatever; and as the Chancellor knows nothing either, the Scotchlaw is likely to be strangely administered in that great court ofappeal. They would have done better to have made Alexander[19] aPeer, who is very old, understands Equity Law, and has nochildren; but he knows very little of Common Law (which Best iswell versed in), and so they keep him on the bench and put Beston the Woolsack. Lord Rosslyn is Privy Seal, [20] and ScarlettAttorney-General, which looks like a leaning towards the Whigs;but then Trench and Lord Edward Somerset are put into theOrdnance; George Bankes goes back to the India Board, andGovernment supports him in his contest at Cambridge againstWilliam Cavendish. This conduct is considered very unhandsome, and Tierney, who was well disposed towards the Government, toldme yesterday that if the Duke did not take care he thought hewould get swamped with such doings, that the way he went on wasneither fish nor flesh, and he would offend more people than hewould conciliate. At present there is no party, and if Governmenthave no opponents they have no great body of supporters on whomthey can depend; everything is in confusion--party, politics, andall. 

 [19] [Sir William Alexander, then Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer. The Court of Exchequer still retained its Equity jurisdiction. ]

 [20] [Lord Rosslyn was considered to be a Whig, and Sir James Scarlett was better known for the Liberal opinions he once professed than for the Tory opinions he afterwards assumed. ]

[Page Head: LORD PALMERSTON ON FOREIGN AFFAIRS. ]

The event of last week was Palmerston's speech on the Portuguesequestion, which was delivered at a late hour and in an emptyHouse, but which they say was exceedingly able and eloquent. Thisis the second he has made this year of great merit. It was veryviolent against Government. He has been twenty years in officeand never distinguished himself before, a proof how manyaccidental circumstances are requisite to bring out the talentswhich a man may possess. The office he held was one of dull anddry detail, and he never travelled out of it. He probably stoodin awe of Canning and others, and was never in the Cabinet; buthaving lately held higher situations and having acquired moreconfidence, and the great men having been removed from the Houseof Commons by death or promotion, he has launched forth, and withastonishing success. Lord Granville told me he had always thoughtPalmerston was capable of more than he did, and had told Canningso, who did not believe it. 

Yesterday the King had his racing dinner, which was morenumerously attended and just as magnificent as that he gave lastyear, but not half so gay and joyous. I believe he had some goutyfeeling and was in pain, for, contrary to his usual custom, hehardly spoke, and the Duke of Richmond, who sat next to him, toldme that the little he did say was more about politics than theturf, and he fancied that something had annoyed him. He lookedwell enough, and was very cheerful before dinner. When his healthwas drunk 'as Patron of the Jockey Club, and many thanks to himfor condescending to accept that title, ' he made a speech, inwhich he said that 'he was much gratified by our kindness, and hecould assure us that in withdrawing himself as he had done fromthe Jockey Club he was not influenced by any unkindness to anymember of it, or any indifference to the interests of the turf. '

[Page Head: THE COTTAGE. ]

June 24th, 1829 {p. 212}

Went to Stoke for the Ascot races. There was such a crowd to seethe cup run for as never was seen before. The King was veryanxious and disappointed. I bought the winner for Chesterfield[21]two hours before the race, he having previously asked the King'sleave, which he gave with many gracious expressions. I have setabout making a reconciliation between the King and Lord Sefton. Both are anxious to make it up, but each is afraid to make thefirst advances. However, Sefton must make them, and he will. Thecause of their quarrel is very old, and signifies little enoughnow. .. . They have been at daggers drawn ever since, and Seftonhas revenged himself by a thousand jokes at the King's expense, of which his Majesty is well aware. Their common pursuit, and adesire on the one side to partake of the good things ofthe Palace, and on the other side to be free from futurepleasantries, has generated a mutual disposition to make it up, which is certainly sensible. The King has bought seven horsessuccessively, for which he has given 11, 300 guineas, principallyto win the cup at Ascot, which he has never accomplished. Hemight have had Zinganee, but would not, because he fancied theColonel would beat him; but when that appeared doubtful he wasvery sorry not to have bought him, and complained that the horsewas not offered to him. He is now extravagantly fond ofChesterfield, who is pretty well bit by it. There is always aparcel of eldest sons and Lords in possession invited to theCottage for the sake of Lady Maria Conyngham. The King likes tobe treated with great deference but without fear, and that peopleshould be easy with him, and gay, and listen well. There was agrand consultation at the Cottage between the King, Lieven, Esterhazy, and the Duke of Cumberland as to the way in which theladies should be placed at dinner, the object being that LadyConyngham should sit next to his Majesty, though according toetiquette the two Ambassadresses should sit one on each side ofhim. It was contrived by the Duke of Cumberland taking out one ofthem and sitting opposite, by which means the lovely Thais satbeside him and he was happy. 

 [21] [George Augustus, sixth Earl of Chesterfield, born in 1805, died in 1866. He married in 1830 Anne, daughter of Lord Forester. In 1829 he was one of the most brilliant of the young men of fashion of that day, having succeeded to a large rental and large accumulations in his minority. ]

June 26th, 1829 {p. 213}

I met Tierney and Lord Grey at dinner yesterday; the formerwanted to know what passed about the King's Speech at the Councilat Windsor the other day. I had heard nothing, not having been atthe Council, but it is believed that the Ministers had put in theSpeech a sentence expressive of satisfaction and sanguine hopesabout Ireland, and that at the last moment the King would notagree to this; for after the Duke's audience, which lasted a goodwhile, there was a Cabinet, and it is supposed they knockedunder, for the paragraph about Ireland is cold enough. The Dukeof Cumberland is thought to have had a hand in all this, and tohave persuaded the King to be obstinate. We talked a great dealabout the situation of the Government and the state of the Houseof Commons, and Tierney thinks that unless the Duke strengthenshimself he will not be able to go on; that Rosslyn and Scarlettare of little use to him, and what he wants is the support ofthose who will bring followers in their train, such as Althorp, who has extensive connections, enjoys consideration, and would beof real use to him. There is a strong report that Althorp is tobe Chancellor of the Exchequer, Goulburn Speaker, and Sutton[22]a Peer. At present the Government is anything but strong, butthen there exists no party, nor is there any man of ability andauthority enough to make one. The Duke must strengthen himself, and have recourse for the purpose either to the Whigs or toHuskisson and his friends. These latter he detests, and he knowsthey hate him and are his bitterest enemies. The Whigs he wouldnot dislike so much, but the King is averse to have them, and theDuke is beset by his old suspicion that they want to break up theTory party and make him dependent on themselves. At the sametime, in taking in Lord Rosslyn and Scarlett, he has made someadvances towards them, though Lord Grey is displeased at his nothaving shown him more deference and communicated to him hisintentions about Rosslyn. Lord Rosslyn asked Lord Grey's adviceas to accepting, and he advised him to take office, explaining atthe same time that he should not pledge himself to supportGovernment, though he was at present well disposed to do so, andshould be still more disposed when Lord Rosslyn became a part ofit. Tierney said it was very lamentable that there should be sucha deficiency of talent in the rising generation, and remarkablehow few clever young men there are now in the House of Commons. The King did not like Lord Rosslyn's appointment; he hates allthe Whigs; indeed, he hates the best men of all parties, andlikes none but such as will be subservient to himself. So littlepublic spirit has he, and so much selfishness, that he wouldrather his Government was weak than strong, that they may be themore dependent upon him; though he only wishes to be powerful inorder to exercise the most puerile caprices, gratify ridiculousresentments, indulge vulgar prejudices, and amass or squandermoney; not one great object connected with national glory orprosperity ever enters his brain. I am convinced he would turnout the Duke to-morrow if he could see any means of replacinghim. I don't think I mentioned that when he talked of giving thechild's ball Lady Maria Conyngham said, 'Oh, do, it will be sonice to see the _two little Queens_ dancing together' (the littleQueen of Portugal and the Princess Victoria), at which he wasbeyond measure provoked. 

 [22] [Right Hon. Manners Sutton, Speaker of the House of Commons. He retained that office till 1835, when he was beaten on the great contest with Mr. Abercromby, and raised to the peerage as Lord Canterbury. ]

[Page Head: MADAME DU CAYLA. ]

July 10th, 1829 {p. 214}

I dined with the Duke of Wellington yesterday; a very large partyfor Mesdames the Duchesse d'Escars and Madame du Cayla; the firstis the widow of the Duc d'Escars, who was Premier Maître d'Hôtelof Louis XVIII. , and who was said to have died of one of theKing's good dinners, and the joke was, 'Hier sa Majesté a eu uneindigestion, dont M. Le Duc d'Escars est mort. ' Madame duCayla[23] is come over to prosecute some claim upon thisGovernment, which the Duke has discovered to be unfounded, and hehad the bluntness to tell her so as they were going to dinner. She must have been good-looking in her youth; her countenance islively, her eyes are piercing, clear complexion, and veryhandsome hands and arms; but the best part about her seemed to bethe magnificent pearls she wore, though these are not so fine asLady Conyngham's. All king's mistresses seem to have a rage forpearls; I remember Madame Narischkin's were splendid. Madame duCayla is said to be very rich and clever. 

 [23] [Madame du Cayla had been the _soi-disant_ mistress of Louis XVIII. , or rather the favourite of his declining years. 'Il fallait une Esther, ' to use her own expression, 'à cet Assuérus. ' She was the daughter of M. Talon, brought up by Madam Campan, and an early friend of Hortense Beauharnais. Her marriage to an officer in the Prince de Condé's army was an unhappy one; and she was left, deserted by her husband, in straitened circumstances. After the assassination of the Duc de Berry, M. De la Rochefoucauld, one of the leaders of the ultra-Royalist party, contrived to throw her in the way of Louis XVIII. , in the hope of counteracting the more Liberal influence which M. De Cazes had acquired over the King. Madame du Cayla became the hope and the mainstay of the altar and the throne. The scheme succeeded. The King was touched by her grace and beauty, and she became indispensable to his happiness. His happiness was said to consist in inhaling a pinch of snuff from her shoulders, which were remarkably broad and fair. M. De Lamartine has related the romance of her life in the thirty-eighth book of his 'Histoire de la Restauration, ' and Béranger satirised her in the bitterest of his songs--that which bears the name of 'Octavie':--

 Sur les coussins où la douleur l'enchaîne Quel mal, dis-tu, vous fait ce roi des rois? Vois-le d'un masque enjoliver sa haine Pour étouffer notre gloire et nos lois. 

 Vois ce coeur faux, que cherchent tes caresses, De tous les siens n'aimer que ses aïeux; Charger de fer les muses vengeresses, Et par ses moeurs nous révéler ses dieux. 

 Peins-nous ces feux, qu'en secret tu redoutes, _Quand sur ton sein il cuve son nectar, _ Ces feux dont s'indignaient les voûtes Où plane encor l'aigle du grand César. 

 It is curious that in 1829 the last mistress of a King of France should have visited London under the reign of the last mistress of a King of England. ]

[Page Head: WELLINGTON'S ANECDOTES OF GEORGE IV. ]

After dinner the Duke talked to me for a long time about the Kingand the Duke of Cumberland, and his quarrel with the latter. Hebegan about the King's making Lord Aberdeen stay at the Cottagethe other day when he had engaged all the foreign Ambassadors todine with him in London. Aberdeen represented this to him, buthis Majesty said 'it did not matter, he should stay, and theAmbassadors should for once see that he was King of England. ' 'Hehas no idea, ' said the Duke, 'of what a King of England ought todo, or he would have known that he ought to have made Aberdeen goand receive them, instead of keeping him there. ' He said the Kingwas very clever and amusing, but that with a surprising memory hewas very inaccurate, and constantly told stories the details ofwhich all his auditors must know to be false. One day he wastalking of the late King, and asserted that George III. Had saidto himself, 'Of all the men I have ever known you are the one onwhom I have the greatest dependence, and you are the most perfectgentleman. ' Another day he said 'that he recollected the old LordChesterfield, who once said to him, "Sir, you are the fourthPrince of Wales I have known, and I must give your Royal Highnessone piece of advice: stick to your father; as long as you adhereto your father you will be a great and a happy man, but if youseparate yourself from him you will be nothing and an unhappyone;" and, by God (added the King), I never forgot that advice, and acted upon it all my life. ' 'We all, ' said the Duke, 'lookedat one another with astonishment. ' He is extremely clever andparticularly ingenious in turning the conversation from anysubject he does not like to discuss. 

'I, ' added the Duke of Wellington, 'remember calling upon him theday he received the news of the battle of Navarino. I was not aMinister, but Commander-in-Chief, and after having told me thenews he asked me what I thought of it. I said that I knew nothingabout it, was ignorant of the instructions that had been given tothe admiral, and could not give any opinion; but "one thing isclear to me, that your Majesty's ships have suffered very much, and that you ought to reinforce your fleet directly, for wheneveryou have a maritime force yours ought to be superior to allothers. " This advice he did not like; I saw this, and he said, "Oh, the Emperor of Russia is a man of honour, " and then he begantalking, and went on to Venice, Toulon, St. Petersburg, all overthe Continent, and from one place and one subject to another, till he brought me to Windsor Castle. I make it a rule never tointerrupt him, and when in this way he tries to get rid of asubject in the way of business which he does not like, I let himtalk himself out, and then quietly put before him the matter inquestion, so that he cannot escape from it. I remember when theDuke of Newcastle was going to Windsor with a mob at his heels topresent a petition (during the late discussions) I went down tohim and showed him the petition, and told him that they ought tobe prevented from coming. He went off and talked upon everysubject but that which I had come about, for an hour and a half. I let him go on till he was tired, and then I said, "But thepetition, sir; here it is, and an answer must be sent. I hadbetter write to the Duke of Newcastle and tell him your Majestywill receive it through the Secretary of State; and, if youplease, I will write the letter before I leave the house. " This Idid, finished my business in five minutes, and went away with theletter in my pocket. I know him so well that I can deal with himeasily, but anybody who does not know him, and who is afraid ofhim, would have the greatest difficulty in getting on with him. One extraordinary peculiarity about him is, that the only thinghe fears is ridicule. He is afraid of nothing which is hazardous, perilous, or uncertain; on the contrary, he is all for bravingdifficulties; but he dreads ridicule, and this is the reason whythe Duke of Cumberland, whose sarcasms he dreads, has such powerover him, and Lord Anglesey likewise; both of them he hates inproportion as he fears them. ' I said I was very much, surprisedto hear this, as neither of these men were wits, or likely tomake him ridiculous; that if he had been afraid of Sefton orAlvanley it could have been understood. 'But, ' rejoined the Duke, 'he never sees these men, and he does not mind anybody he doesnot see; but the Duke of Cumberland and Lord Anglesey he cannotavoid seeing, and the fear he has of what they may say to him, aswell as of him, keeps him in awe of them. No man, however, knowsthe Duke of Cumberland better than he does; indeed, all I know ofthe Duke of Cumberland I know from him, and so I told him oneday. I remember asking him why the Duke of Cumberland was sounpopular, and he said, "Because there never was a father wellwith his son, or husband with his wife, or lover with hismistress, or a friend with his friend, that he did not try tomake mischief between them. " And yet he suffers this man to haveconstant access to him, to say what he will to him, and oftenacts under his influence. ' I said, 'You and the Duke ofCumberland speak now, don't you?' 'Yes, we speak. The King spoketo me about it, and wanted me to make him an apology. I told himit was quite impossible, "Why, " said he, "you did not mean tooffend the Duke of Cumberland, I am sure. " "No, sir, " said I; "Idid not wish to offend him, but I did not say a word that I didnot mean. When we meet the Royal Family in society, they are oursuperiors, and we owe them all respect, and I should readilyapologise for anything I might have said offensive to the Duke;but in the House of Lords we are their peers, and for what I saythere I am responsible to the House alone. " "But, " said the King, "he said you turned on him as if you meant to address yourself tohim personally. " "I did mean it, sir, " said I, "and I did sobecause I knew that he had been here, that he had heard thingsfrom your Majesty which he had gone and misrepresented andmisstated in other quarters, and knowing that, I meant to showhim that I was aware of it. I am sorry that the Duke is offended, but I cannot help it, and I cannot make him an apology. "'

[Page Head: DUKES OF WELLINGTON AND CUMBERLAND. ]

The Duke went on, 'I was so afraid he would tell the Duke that Iwas sorry for what I had said, that I repeated to him when I wentaway, "Now, sir, remember that I will not apologise to the Duke, and I hope your Majesty will therefore not convey any such ideato his mind. " However, he spoke to him, I suppose, for the nexttime I met the Duke he bowed to me. I immediately called on him, but he did not return my visit. On a subsequent occasion [Iforget what he said it was] I called on him again, and hereturned my visit the same day. '

The Duke then talked of the letter which the Duke of Cumberlandhad just written (as Grand Master of the Orange Lodges) toEnniskillen, which he thought was published with the mostmischievous intentions. However, he said, 'I know not what he isat, but while I am conscious of going on in a straightforwardmanner I am not afraid of him, or of anything he can do, ' which Iwas surprised to hear, because it looked as if he was afraid ofhim. I asked him whether, with all the cleverness he thoughtbelonged to the King, he evinced great acuteness in discussingmatters of business, to which he replied, 'Oh, no, not at all, the worst judgment that can be. ' This was not the first time Ihad heard the Duke's opinion of the King. I remember him sayingsomething to the Duke of Portland about him during the Queen'strial indicative of his contempt for him. 

In the meantime the Duke of Cumberland, instead of returning toBerlin, has sent for the Duchess and his son, and means to takeup his abode in this country, in hopes of prevailing upon theKing to dismiss his Ministers and make a Government under his ownauspices; but however weak the Government may be, he will notsucceed, for the King has an habitual reliance upon the Duke [ofWellington] which overcomes the mortification and dislike hefeels at being dependent upon him; and, besides, the materials donot exist out of which a Government could be formed that wouldhave the support of the House of Commons. The great want whichthis Administration experiences is that of men of sufficientinformation and capacity to direct the complicated machinery ofour trade and finances and adjust our colonial differences. Huskisson, Grant, and Palmerston were the ablest men, and the twofirst the best informed in the Government. Fitzgerald knowsnothing of the business of his office, still less of theprinciples of trade; he is idle, but quick. Of Murray I knownothing; he is popular in his office, but he has neither thecapacity nor the knowledge of Huskisson. 

 CHAPTER VI. 

The Recorder's report--Manners of George IV. --Intrigues of the Duke of Cumberland--Insults Lady Lyndhurst--Deacon Hume at the Board of Trade--Quarrel between the Duke of Cumberland and the Lord Chancellor--A Bad Season--Prostration of Turkey--France under Polignac--State of Ireland--Mr. Windham's Diary-- George IV. 's Eyesight--Junius--A Man without Money--Court-martial on Captain Dickinson--The Duke and the 'Morning Journal'-- Physical Courage of the King--A Charade at Chatsworth--Huskisson and the Duke--Irish Trials--Tom Moore--Scott--Byron--Fanny Kemble--Sir James Mackintosh--His Conversation--Black Irishmen-- Moore's Irish Story--Moore's Singing--George IV. And Mr. Denman-- Strawberry Hill--Moore at Trinity College--Indian Vengeance at Niagara--Count Woronzow--Lord Glengall's Play--The Recorder's Report. 

July 21st, 1829 {p. 221}

There was a Council last Thursday, and the heaviest Recorder'sreport that was ever known, I believe; seven people left forexecution. The King cannot bear this, and is always leaning tothe side of mercy. Lord Tenterden, however, is for severity, andthe Recorder still more so. It not unfrequently happens that aculprit escapes owing to the scruples of the King; sometimes heput the question of life or death to the vote, and it is decidedby the voices of the majority. The King came to town at one, andgave audiences until half-past four. He received Madame du Cayla, whom he was very curious to see. She told me afterwards that shewas astonished at his good looks, and seemed particularly to havebeen struck with his 'belles jambes et sa perruque bienarrangée;' and I asked her if she had ever seen him before, andshe said no, 'mais que le feu Roi lui en avait souvent parlé, etde ses belles manières, qu'en vérité elle les avait trouvéesparfaites. ' There was a reigning Margrave of Baden waiting for anaudience in the room we assembled in. Nobody took much notice ofhim, and when the Duke spoke to him he bowed to the ground, bowafter bow; when he went away nobody attended him or opened thedoor for him. 

July 24th, 1829 {p. 222}

The accounts from Ireland are very bad; nothing but massacres andtumults, and all got up by the Protestants, who desire nothing somuch as to provoke the Catholics into acts of violence andoutrage. They want a man of energy and determination who willcause the law to be respected and impartially administered. IfLord Anglesey was there, it is very probable these outrages wouldnot have taken place, but no one cares for such a man of straw asthe present Lord Lieutenant. 

[Page Head: INTRIGUES OF THE DUKE OF CUMBERLAND. ]

The Duke of Cumberland is doing all he can to set the Kingagainst the Duke; he always calls him 'King Arthur, ' which madethe King very angry at first, and he desired he would not, but hecalls him so still, and the King submits. He never lets any ofthe Royal Family see the King alone; the Duchess of Gloucestercomplains bitterly of his conduct, and the way in which hethrusts himself in when she is with his Majesty. The other dayCount Münster came to the King, and the Duke of Cumberland wasdetermined he should not have a private audience, and stayed inthe room the whole time. He hates Lady Conyngham, and she him. They put about that he has been pressed to stay here by the King, which is not true; the King would much rather he went away. TheDuke of Wellington told me that he one day asked the King whenthe Duke was going, and he said, 'I am sick to death of thesubject. I have been told he was going fifty times, but when hegoes, or whether he ever goes at all, I have not the least idea. 'He is now very much provoked because the King will not talkpolitics with him. His Majesty wants to be quiet, and is tired ofall the Duke's violence and his constant attacks. 

August 8th, 1829 {p. 222}

There is a story current about the Duke of Cumberland and LadyLyndhurst which is more true than most stories of this kind. TheDuke called upon her, and grossly insulted her; on which, after ascramble, she rang the bell. He was obliged to desist and to goaway, but before he did he said, 'By God, madam, I will be theruin of you and your husband, and will not rest till I havedestroyed you both. '

Vesey Fitzgerald has turned out the Chief Clerk in the Board ofTrade, and put in Hume[1] as Assistant Secretary. He told me itwas absolutely necessary, as nobody in the Office knew anythingof its business, which is, I believe, very true, but as true ofhimself as of the rest. Hume is a very clever man, and probablyknows more of the principles of trade and commerce than anybody, but so it is in every department of Government--great ignoranceon the part of the chiefs, and a few obscure men of industry andability who do the business and supply the knowledge requisite, _sic vos non vobis_ throughout. 

 [1] [Mr. Deacon Hume, a very able public servant. He remained at the Board of Trade many years. ]

O'Connell was elected without opposition; he was more violent andmore popular than ever. They treat him with every indignity, andthen they complain of his violence; besides, he must speak to theIrish in the strain to which they have been used and whichpleases them. Had he never been violent, he would not be the manhe is, and Ireland would not have been emancipated. 

[Page Head: QUARREL OF CUMBERLAND AND LYNDHURST. ]

August 18th, 1829 {p. 223}

Last Saturday I came back from Goodwood, and called on LadyJersey, whom I found very curious about a correspondence whichshe told me had taken place between the Duke of Cumberland andthe Chancellor relative to a paragraph which had appeared in the'Age, ' stating that his Royal Highness had been turned out ofLady Lyndhurst's house in consequence of having insulted her init. She said she was very anxious to see the letter, for sheheard that the Duke had much the best of it, and that theChancellor's letter was evasive and Jesuitical. The next day Iwas informed of the details of this affair. I found that the Dukehad called upon her and had been denied; that he had complainedhalf in jest, and half in earnest, to the Chancellor of her notletting him in; that on a subsequent day he had called so earlythat no orders had been given to the porter, and he was let in;that his manner and his language had been equally brutal andoffensive; that he afterwards went off upon politics, and abusedthe whole Administration, and particularly the Chancellor, andafter staying two or three hours, insulting and offending her inevery way, he took himself off. Soon after he met her somewherein the evening, when he attacked her again. She treated him withall possible indignation, and would have nothing to say to him. 

Yesterday I met the Chancellor at the Castle at a Council. Hetook me aside, and said that he wished to tell me what hadpassed, and to show me the correspondence. He then began, andsaid that after the Duke's visit Lady L. Had told the Chancellorof his abuse of him and the Government, but had suppressed therest, thinking it was better not to tell him, as it would put himin a very embarrassing position, and contenting herself withsaying she would never receive the Duke again upon the othergrounds, which were quite sufficient; but that some time afterreports reached her from various quarters (Lord Grey, LordDurham, Lord Dudley, and several others) that the Duke went abouttalking of her in the most gross and impertinent manner. Uponhearing this, she thought it right to tell the Chancellor theother part of his conduct which she had hitherto concealed, andthis she did in general terms, viz. That he had been veryinsolent and made an attack upon her. The Chancellor wasexceedingly incensed, but he said after much consideration hethought it better to let the matter drop; a long time had elapsedsince the offence was committed; all communication had ceasedbetween all the parties; and he felt the ridicule and inconvenienceof putting himself (holding the high office he did) in personalcollision with a Royal Duke, besides the annoyance which it wouldbe to Lady Lyndhurst to become publicly the subject of such aquarrel. There, then, he let the matter rest, but about afortnight ago he received a letter from the Duke enclosing anewspaper to this effect, as well as I can recollect it, for Iwas obliged to read the letter in such a hurried way that Icould not bring the exact contents away with me, though I am sureI do not err in stating their sense:--

 'My Lord, --I think it necessary to enclose to your Lordship a newspaper containing a paragraph which I have marked, and which relates to a pretended transaction in your Lordship's house. I think it necessary and proper to contradict this statement, which I need not say is a gross falsehood, and I wish, therefore, to have the authority of Lady Lyndhurst for contradicting it. 'I am, my Lord, yours sincerely, 'Ernest. '

This was the sense of the letter, though it was not so worded; itwas civil enough. The Chancellor answered:--'The Lord Chancellorwith his duty begs to acknowledge the favour of your RoyalHighness's letter. The Lord Chancellor had never seen theparagraph to which your Royal Highness alludes, and which heregards with the most perfect indifference, considering it as oneof that series of calumnies to which Lady Lyndhurst has been forsome time exposed from a portion of the press, and which she hasat length learnt to regard with the contempt they deserve. ' Hesaid that he thought it better to let the matter drop, and hewrote this answer by way of waiving any discussion on thesubject, and that the Duke might contradict the paragraph himselfif he chose to do so. To this the Duke wrote again:--'My Lord, --Ihave received your Lordship's answer, which is not so explicit asI have a right to expect. I repeat again that the statement isfalse and scandalous, and I have a right to require LadyLyndhurst's sanction to the contradiction which I think itnecessary to give to it. ' This letter was written in a moreimpertinent style than the other. On the receipt of it theChancellor consulted the Duke of Wellington, and the Dukesuggested the following answer, which the Chancellor sent:--'TheLord Chancellor has had the honour of receiving your RoyalHighness's letter of ----. The Lord Chancellor does not conceiveit necessary to annoy Lady Lyndhurst by troubling her upon thesubject, and with what relates to your Royal Highness the LordChancellor has no concern whatever; but with regard to that partwhich states that your Royal Highness had been excluded from theLord Chancellor's house, there could be no question that therespect and grateful attachment which both the Chancellor andLady Lyndhurst felt to their Sovereign made it impossible thatany brother of that Sovereign should ever be turned out of hishouse. ' To this the Duke wrote another letter, in a very sneeringand impertinent tone in the third person, and alluding to the_loose reports_ which had been current on the subject, and sayingthat 'the Chancellor might have his own reasons for not choosingto speak to Lady Lyndhurst on the subject;' to which theChancellor replied that 'he knew nothing of any loose reports, but that if there were any, in whatever quarter they might haveoriginated, which went to affect the conduct of Lady Lyndhurst inthe matter in question, they were most false, foul, andcalumnious. ' So ended the correspondence; all these latterexpressions were intended to apply to the Duke himself, who isthe person who spread the _loose reports_ and told the lies abouther. When she first denied him, she told Lord Bathurst of it, whoassured her she had done quite right, and that she had betternever let him in, for if she did he would surely invent some liesabout her. Last Sunday week the Chancellor went down to Windsor, and laid the whole correspondence before the King, who receivedhim very well, and approved of what he had done; but of coursewhen he saw the Duke of Cumberland and heard his story, heconcurred in all his abuse of the Chancellor. I think theChancellor treated the matter in the best way the case admittedof. Had he taken it up, he must have resigned his office andcalled the Duke out, and what a mixture of folly and scandal thiswould have been, and how the woman would have suffered in it all!

[Page Head: QUARREL OF CUMBERLAND AND LYNDHURST. ]

August 22nd, 1829 {p. 226}

The day before yesterday Sir Henry Cooke called on me, and toldme that he came on the part of the Duke of Cumberland, who hadheard that I had seen the correspondence, and that I had given anaccount of it which was unfavourable to him, that his RoyalHighness wished me, therefore, to call on him and hear hisstatement of the facts. Cooke then entered into the history, andtold me that it was he who had originally acquainted the Dukewith the reports which were current about him, and had advisedhim to contradict them, but that he had not found any opportunityof taking it up till this paragraph appeared in the 'Age'newspaper; that the Duke had given him an account of what hadpassed, which was that Lady Lyndhurst had begged him to call uponher, then to dine with her, and upon every occasion hadencouraged him. I heard all he had to say, but declined callingon the Duke. As I wished, however, that there should be nomisrepresentation in what I said on the subject, I wrote a letterto Cooke, to be laid before the Duke, in which I gave an accountof the circumstances under which I had been concerned in thebusiness, stating that I had not expressed any opinion of theconduct of the parties, and that I did not wish to be in any waymixed up in it. After I had seen Cooke I went to the Chancellorand read my letter to him. I found he had not shown the King thetwo last letters that had passed; and as Cooke had told me thatthe Duke meant to go to Windsor the next day and lay the wholecorrespondence before the King, the Chancellor immediately sentoff a messenger with the two letters which the King had not seen. The Chancellor has since circulated the correspondence among hisfriends, but with rather too undignified a desire to submit hisconduct to the judgment of a parcel of people who only laugh atthem both, and are amused with the gossip and malice of thething. 

August 25th, 1829 {p. 227}

I came to town from Stoke yesterday morning, and found apalavering letter from Cooke, returning mine, saying that theDuke was quite satisfied, and saw that it would be useless tohave an interview with me; that he had persuaded his RoyalHighness to drop the whole affair; and ended with many protestationsof respect for the Chancellor and the purity of his own motivesin meddling with the matter. I sent his letter to the Chancellor, together with my own, that he might show them both to the Dukeof Wellington. 

Melbourne, who is a pretty good judge of Irish affairs, thinksthat Government will probably be under the necessity of adoptingstrong coercive measures there; but whether they are adopted, ora temporary policy of expedients persisted in, nobody is therefit to advise what is requisite. The Duke of Northumberland is anabsolute nullity, a bore beyond all bores, and, in spite of hisdesire to spend money and be affable, very unpopular. The Duchesscomplains of it and can't imagine why, for they do all they canto be liked, but all in vain. 

August 28th, 1829 {p. 228}

At Stoke since Tuesday for the Egham races; Esterhazy, Alvanley, Montrond, Mornay, B. Craven, &c. The King came to the races oneday (the day I was not there) in excellent health. The weatherexceeds everything that ever was known--a constant succession ofgales of wind and tempests of rain, and the sun never shining. The oats are not cut, and a second crop is growing up, that hasbeen shaken out of the first. Everybody contemplates with dismaythe approach of winter, which will probably bring with it theoverthrow of the Corn Laws, for corn must be at such a price asto admit of an immense importation. So much for our domesticprospect here, to say nothing of Ireland. 

[Page Head: RUSSIA AND TURKEY. ]

In the meantime the Sultan with his firmness has brought theRussians to the gates of Constantinople, and not a soul doubtsthat they are already there, or that they will be directly; thereis nothing to resist either Diebitsch or Paskiewitch. Esterhazytalks of it as certain, and so unaccountable does it seem thatAustria should have been a passive spectator of the Russianvictories, that a strong notion prevails that Metternich has madehis bargain with them, and that in the impending partitionAustria is to have her share. Still more extraordinary does itappear that the Duke, from whom vigour and firmness might havebeen expected, should not have interfered. That cursed treaty ofthe 6th of July, and the subsequent battle of Navarino, whichwere intended to give us a right to arrest the ambition ofRussia, have been rendered nugatory by the obstinacy of the Turkson the one hand, and the perpetual changes of Administration hereand in France, which have prevented any steady and consistentcourse of policy from being followed; while the Russians, availing themselves of both these circumstances, have pushed onwith singleness of purpose and great vigour of execution. It isquite impossible now to foresee the end of all this, but theelements are abroad of as fine disturbances as the most restlesscan desire. 

France is probably too much occupied with her own affairs to paymuch attention to those of Turkey, nor is it clear that theFrench would much regret any event which tended to impair ourcommercial greatness. So busy are the French with their ownpolitics, that even the milliners have left off making caps. LadyCowper told me to-day that Madame Maradan complained that shecould get no bonnets, &c. , from Paris; for they would occupythemselves with nothing but the change of Administration. [2]Nothing can exceed the violence that prevails; the King doesnothing but cry. Polignac is said to have the fatal obstinacy ofa martyr, the worst sort of courage of the _ruat coelum_ sort. Aberdeen said at dinner at Madame de Lieven's the other day thathe thought him a very clever man; and that the Duke of Wellingtonwent still further, for he said that he was the ablest man Francehad had since the Restoration. I remember him well when he wascourting his first wife, Archy Macdonald's sister; and if beingfirst a prisoner, then an emigrant, then a miser, and now a saintcan make him a good Minister, he may be one. 

 [2] [The Polignac Ministry took office on the 8th of August. ]

August 31st, 1829 {p. 229}

The Duke, the Chancellor, and Privy Seal came from Walmer to-dayfor a Cabinet; and Esterhazy, who was to have dined with me, sentword that as he had received a courier this morning, and wasobliged to send off Dietrichstein this evening, he could notcome. It is said that Sir Frederick Gordon has sent word that theTurks are frightened and wish to treat, but probably it is nowtoo late. 

Last night news came that Villa Flor had routed Miguel'sexpedition against Terceira, and at the same time the littleQueen is embarking with the Empress for the Brazils. Thisprobably comes too late; some time ago it might have been of someuse. Miguel will probably be recognised by this country, and thenthe game is up. I have long been convinced that the Duke meanteventually to acknowledge Miguel, or he would not have toleratedBeresford's conduct. If Lamb is to be believed, Beresford wassecretly in it all. 

I met the Chancellor this morning, who gave me back my letter andCooke's answer. He said, 'There are other reports afloat now, Ihear. ' I said, 'What? I have heard none. ' 'Oh, ' he said, 'onpublic matters, and they are put about by that blackguard, 'meaning the Duke of Cumberland. I suppose he alludes to changesin the Government, but I have heard of none; they are, in fact, kept in hot water by this fellow's activity, though I think hecannot do the mischief he would, like. 

From what I hear, it is probable that Lord William Bentinck willbe speedily recalled from India. His measures are of too Liberala cast to suit the taste of the present Government. The Duke hasnever liked him, not since the war in Spain, when he did notbehave quite well to Lord William, and he seldom forgets oldanimosities; besides, he cannot bear anybody who takes a line oftheir own. 

Lord Ellenborough, strong in the concurrence of the Duke, isinclined to be insolent in his tone to Lord William, which, Itake it, he will not stand. The Duke looks upon Lord William as ahasty, imprudent man, with bad judgment, and I am not sure thathe is very wrong. He has made himself popular by the affabilityand _bonhomie_ of his manner, his magnificence and hospitality, and the liberal and generous character of his political opinions, but he is far from a clever man, and I suspect his judgment isvery indifferent. 

I hear from Ireland that Doherty conducts the trial of thepoliceman with consummate skill; the object was that the trialshould appear fair, and that the men should be acquitted. Theywere acquitted, and the people were furious. There is excitementenough in that wretched country, and every effort is made to keepit up at its highest pitch; the press on each side teems withaccusations and invectives, and the Protestants strain everynerve to inflame the spirit of rancorous fury which distinguishedthe Brunswickers before the Catholic question was carried, and toprovoke the Catholics to overt acts of violence. Both sides areto blame, but the Protestants the most. George Villiers wrote meword of a crime that has been perpetrated, the most atrocious Iever heard of. .. . The country in which such an abomination wasperpetrated should be visited with the fate of Sodom andGomorrah. The arm of justice is too slow; public indignationshould deal out a rapid and a terrible vengeance. 

September 5th, 1829 {p. 231}

There is a strong report that the Turks want to treat, and theproclamation of Diebitsch looks as if the Russians were ready tomake peace. There is also a hope that the Russian army may havebeen too bold, and finds itself in a scrape by having advancedtoo far from its resources, but the former notion is the mostlikely of the two. Three or four sail of the line are ordered outto the Mediterranean. 

[Page Head: MR. WINDHAM'S DIARY. ]

Yesterday I went with Amyot to his house, where he showed me apart of Windham's diary; there are twenty-eight little volumes ofit, begun in 1784, when he was thirty-four years old, andcontinued irregularly till his death; it seems to be written veryfreely and familiarly, and is probably a correct picture of thewriter's mind. I only read a few pages, which were chieflynotices of his moving about, where he dined, the company he met, and other trifles, often very trifling and sometimes not verydecent; it abounds with expressions of self-reproach foridleness, breach of resolutions, and not taking care of hishealth; talks of the books he reads and means to read, andconstantly describes the state of spirits he is in. There is apaper containing an account of his last interview with Johnson, shortly before Johnson died; he says that he told Johnson howmuch he reproached himself for not having lived more in hissociety, and that he had often resolved to be with him as much ashe could, but that his not having done so was a proof of thefallacy of our resolutions, that he regretted. In Windham's diaryare several Johnsoniana, after the manner of Boswell, only muchshorter, his opinions on one or two subjects briefly given, somequotations and criticisms. I was much struck with his criticismson Virgil, whom he seems to have held in great contempt, and tohave regarded as inferior to Ovid. He says, 'Take away hisimitation of Homer, and what do you leave him?' Of Homer hisadmiration was unbounded, although he says that he never read thewhole of the 'Odyssey' in the original, but that everything whichis most admirable in poetry is to be found in Homer. I care theless about remembering these things because they will probablyappear in print before long. [3]

 [3] [A selection from Mr. Windham's journals was published by Mrs. Henry Baring in 1866. The Johnsoniana had previously been published by Mr. Croker in his edition of Boswell's 'Life of Johnson. ']

Windham told Johnson that he regretted having omitted to talk tohim of the most important of all subjects on which he had oftendoubted. Johnson said, 'You mean natural and revealed religion, 'and added that the historical evidences of Christianity were sostrong that it was not possible to doubt its truth, that we hadnot so much evidence that Caesar died in the Capitol as thatChrist died in the manner related in the Bible; that three out offour of the Evangelists died in attestation of their evidence, that the same evidence would be considered irresistible in anyordinary historical case. Amyot told me, as we were coming along, that Windham had questioned Johnson about religion, havingdoubts, and that Johnson had removed them by this declaration:if, then, the commonest and hundred times repeated arguments weresufficient to remove such doubts as were likely to occur to amind like Windham's, it may be counted a miracle, for I am sure, in the ordinary affairs of life, Windham would not have been soeasily satisfied. It has always appeared to me questionablewhether Johnson was a believer (I mean whether his clear andunbiassed judgment was satisfied) in Christianity; he evidentlydreaded and disliked the subject, and though he would have beenindignant had anybody hinted that he had doubts, his nervousirritation at any religious discussion betokened a mind ill atease on the subject. I learnt one thing from Windham's diarywhich I put into immediate practice, and that is, to write mineon one side only, and leave the other for other matters connectedwith the text; it is more convenient certainly. 

September 16th, 1829 {p. 233}

Went to Brighton on Saturday last to pay Lady Jersey a visit andshoot at Firle. Jersey and I shot 376 rabbits, the greatestnumber that had ever been killed on the hills. The scenery isvery fine--a range of downs looking on one side over the sea, andon the other over a wide extent of rich flat country. It is saidthat Firle is the oldest park in England. It belongs to LordGage. 

[Page Head: WELLINGTON AND THE 'MORNING JOURNAL. ']

I heard at Brighton for the first time of the Duke ofWellington's prosecution of the 'Morning Journal, ' which wasannounced by the paper itself in a paragraph quite as scurrilousas those for which it is attacked. It seems that he has long madeup his mind to this measure, and that he thinks it is a dutyincumbent on him, which I do not see, and it appears to me to bean act of great folly. He stands much too high, has performed toogreat actions, and the attacks on him were too vulgar and vagueto be under the necessity of any such retaliatory measure asthis, and he lowers his dignity by entering into a conflict withsuch an infamous paper, and appearing to care about its abuse. Ithink the Chancellor was right, and that he is wrong. There is areport that the King insists upon the Duke of Cumberland beingCommander-in-Chief, and it is extraordinary how many people thinkthat he will succeed in turning out the Duke. Lord Harringtondied while I was at Brighton, and it is supposed that the Duke ofCumberland will try and get the Round Tower, [4] but probably theKing will not like to establish him so near himself. The King hasnearly lost his eyesight, and is to be couched as soon as hiseyes are in a proper state for the operation. He is in a greatfright with his father's fate before him, and indeed nothing ismore probable than that he will become blind and mad too; he isalready a little of both. It is now a question of appointing aPrivate Secretary, and Knighton, it is supposed, would be theman; but if he is to abstain from all business, there would seemto be no necessity for the appointment, as he will be as littleable to do business with his Private Secretary as with hisMinister. 

 [4] Lord Conyngham got the Round Tower, and Lord Combermere the regiment--[C. C. G. ]

I have been living at Fulham at Lord Wharncliffe's villa for sixor seven weeks; I have lived here in idleness and luxury, givingdinners, and wasting my time and my money rather more than usual. I have read next to nothing since I have been here; I am ashamedto think how little--in short, a most unprofitable life. 

September 23rd, 1829

At Fulham till Friday, when I came to town. Went to Stoke onSaturday, and returned yesterday; old Lady Salisbury, Giles, E. Capel, and Conroy. There is always something to be learnt fromeverybody, if you touch them on the points they know. Giles toldme about the letter to his sister written by Francis, [5] andwhich was supposed to have afforded another proof that he wasJunius. Many years ago Francis was in love with his sister, Mrs. King (at Bath), and one day she received an anonymous letter, enclosing a copy of verses. The letter said that the writer hadfound the verses, and being sure they were meant for her, hadsent them to her. The verses were in Francis' handwriting, theenvelope in a feigned hand. When the discussion arose aboutFrancis being Junius, Giles said to his sister one day, 'If youhave kept those verses which Francis wrote to you many years agoat Bath, it would be curious to examine the handwriting and seeif it corresponds with that of Junius. ' She found the envelopeand verses, and, on comparing them, the writing of the envelopewas identical with that of Junius as published in Woodfall'sbook. 

 [5] [Sir Philip Francis, the reputed author of the 'Letters of Junius. ' This anecdote has since been verified with great minuteness by Mr. Twisleton in his researches on the authorship of 'Junius. ' The copy of verses and the envelope in a feigned hand are still in existence. I have seen them. The feigned hand appears to be identical with that of Junius. ]

[Page Head: A MAN WITHOUT MONEY. ]

Old Creevey is rather an extraordinary character. I know nothingof the early part of his history, but I believe he was anattorney or barrister; he married a widow, who died a few yearsago; she had something, he nothing; he got into Parliament, belonged to the Whigs, displayed a good deal of shrewdness andhumour, and was for some time very troublesome to the ToryGovernment by continually attacking abuses. After some time helost his seat, and went to live at Brussels, where he becameintimate with the Duke of Wellington. Then his wife died, uponwhich event he was thrown upon the world with about £200 a yearor less, no home, few connections, a great many acquaintance, agood constitution, and extraordinary spirits. He possessesnothing but his clothes, no property of any sort; he leads avagrant life, visiting a number of people who are delighted tohave him, and sometimes roving about to various places, as fancyhappens to direct, and staying till he has spent what money hehas in his pocket. He has no servant, no home, no creditors; hebuys everything as he wants it at the place he is at; he has noties upon him, and has his time entirely at his own disposal andthat of his friends. He is certainly a living proof that a manmay be perfectly happy and exceedingly poor, or rather withoutriches, for he suffers none of the privations of poverty andenjoys many of the advantages of wealth. I think he is the onlyman I know in society who possesses nothing. 

Captain Dickinson's trial[6] ended last week, with a sentencewhich was levelled against Codrington, and which called thecharges groundless, frivolous, and vexatious. It is generallythought that this sentence might have been spared, though theacquittal was proper; that Codrington behaved very foolishly, andin ever mentioning the round robin after he had forgiven it, veryinexcusably; but that, on the other hand, the Admiralty haddisplayed a spirit of hostility and rancour against him whichis very disgusting, and that Blackwood was sent down to thecourt-martial for the express purpose of bullying and thwartinghim. I saw him after the sentence; he seemed annoyed, but saidthat such a sentence made it necessary the matter should not stopthere, and that it must be taken up in Parliament. I cannot seewhat he is to gain by that; he may prove that the Ministry ofthat day (which was not the Duke's) behaved very ill, but thathas nothing to do with the court-martial. 

 [6] [Captain Dickinson fought the 'Genoa' at the battle of Navarino after Captain Bathurst, the commander of the ship, was killed. A quarrel afterwards took place between him and Sir Edward Codrington, and Dickinson was tried by court-martial for not making proper use of the springs ordered by the Admiral to be placed on the anchors, the consequence of which was that her broadside was not directed against the enemy, but fired into the 'Albion. ' Captain Dickinson was honourably acquitted of all the charges, and it was proved that Sir Edward Codrington's recollection of what had passed was inaccurate in some particulars. ]

The whole press has risen up in arms against the Duke'sprosecution of the 'Morning Journal, ' which appears to me, thoughmany people think he is right, a great act of weakness andpassion. How can such a man suffer by the attacks of such apaper, and by such attacks, the sublime of the ridiculous?--'thathe is aiming at the Crown, but _we_ shall take care that he doesnot succeed in this. ' The idea of the Duke of Wellington seekingto make himself King, and his ambition successfully resisted bythe editor of a newspaper, 'flogs' any scene in the 'Rehearsal. 'I saw the Duke yesterday morning; he was just come fromDoncaster, where he told me he had been very well received. Hewas with Chesterfield, who was to have had a large party. Afterwards I rode with him, and he took me to see his house, which is now excellent. He told me that both the King's eyes wereaffected, the left the most, and that he would have the operationperformed when they were fit for it; he said that the King neverevinced any fear upon these occasions, that he was alwaysperfectly cool, and neither feared operations or their possibleconsequences; that he remembered when he had a very painful anddangerous operation performed some time ago upon his head, thathe was not the least nervous about it, nor at all afraid ofdying, for they told him that he would very likely not recover. Isaid, 'Then, after all, perhaps he who has the reputation ofbeing a coward would prove a very brave man if circumstancesoccasioned his showing what he is. ' He said, 'Very likely;' thathe seemed to have but one fear, that of ridicule: he cannot bearthe society of clever men, for fear of ridicule; he cannot bearto show himself in public, because he is afraid of the jokes thatmay be cut on his person. 

In the evening I met Matuscewitz, who is all glorious at theRussian successes. He, Montrond, and I talked the matter over, and he said that they should make peace, but of course (I hadsaid, 'Vous serez modestes, n'est-ce pas?') they should profit bycircumstances; that the Allied Ministers would not be permittedto interfere, and they should grant such terms as they pleasedwithout consulting them. This was a lie, [7] for Bandinell hadtold me in the morning that the negotiations were going on inconcert with the Ambassadors of the Allies. 

 [7] It was not a lie though after all, for I don't believe the Allied Ministers had any concern in the matter. (December 5th. )--[C. C. G. ]

[Page Head: CHATSWORTH. ]

November 4th, 1829

Left London the last week in September, and, after visiting atseveral country houses, slept at Harborough, and went to Bretbyto breakfast; got there at twelve and found nobody up. In processof time they came down to breakfast, the party consisting of theChancellor and Lady Lyndhurst, the Worcesters, Mrs. Fox, andWilliams, the chaplain, and his wife. I saw very little of theplace, which seems pretty, but not large; a very large unfinishedhouse. I stayed two or three hours, and went on to Chatsworth, [8]where I arrived just as they were going to dinner, but was notexpected, and so there was no room at the table. The party wasimmense; 40 people sat down to dinner every day, and about 150servants in the steward's room and servants' hall; there were theLievens, Cowpers, Granvilles, Wharncliffes, Granthams, Wiltons, Stanleys, Belfasts, Newboroughs, Dawsons, Matuscewitz, Clanwilliams, G. Anson, H. De Ros, &c. Nothing could be more agreeable from thegaiety of numbers and the entire liberty which prevails; all theresources of the house--horses, carriages, keepers, &c. --areplaced at the disposal of the guests, and everybody does whatthey like best. In the evening they acted charades or danced, andthere was plenty of whist and _écarté_ high and low. It was inthe middle of that party that news came of the negotiations beingbegun between the Russians and Turks, [9] and I received a letterfrom Robert Grosvenor, which Madame de Lieven was ready todevour, and she was very angry that I would not let her see thewhole of it. Our Russians were of course triumphant, and thePrincess's good humour was elevated to rapture by a very prettycompliment which was paid her in the shape of a charade, admirably got up as a _pièce de circonstance_, and which hassince made some noise in the world. The word was Constantinople, which was acted: _Constant_, Penelope and the suitors; _Inn_, atavern scene; and _Opal_, the story in 'Anne of Geierstein. ' Thewhole represented the Divan, the arrival of Diebitsch'sAmbassadors, a battle between the Turks and Russians, the victoryof the latter, and ended by Morpeth as Diebitsch laying a crownof laurel at Madame de Lieven's feet. She was enchanted, and ofcourse wrote off an account of it to the Empress. The whole thingis abused as a _bassesse_ by her enemies, but it was veryamusing, and in the Duke's house, who is a friend of the Emperor, a not unbecoming compliment. 

 [8] [The hospitality of Chatsworth in the lifetime of William Spencer Cavendish, sixth Duke of Devonshire, was princely. The Duke of Portland, Mr. Greville's grandfather, married Dorothy, only daughter of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, from whom Mr. Greville derived his second name of Cavendish. He was therefore second cousin of the sixth Duke and of Lady Granville and Lady Carlisle. ]

 [9] [The negotiations for the peace of Adrianople, which terminated the Russo-Turkish war. ]

I returned to Newmarket on the 11th of October. At the end of theweek I had a fall from my horse, which confined me to my room forten days. The Arbuthnots were at Newmarket, having come fromSudbourne, where Lord Hertford had brought the Duke and Huskissontogether. Nothing seems to have passed between them beyond thecommon civilities of society, but Huskisson has suffered greatlyfrom a universal opinion that the meeting was sought by him forthe purpose of re-ingratiating himself with the Duke, and, ifpossible, getting into office on any terms. It is a proof of thelow estimation in which his character is held even by those whorate his talents the highest that all his former politicaladherents think this of him. With such a reputation his politicalefficacy never can be great again. There was a strong report thathe was to join the Government, which is now dying away. The Dukeis very fortunate, for his most formidable opponents always dosomething to lower their own characters and render themselves aslittle formidable to him as possible. 

[Page Head: IRISH TRIALS. ]

The trials in Ireland are just over, and the Government have beendefeated, which I find they think may be productive of veryimportant consequences to the peace of the country. The obstinacyof one man, who held out against the other eleven, in the secondbatch of conspirators who were tried, obliged them at length todismiss the jury, and the prisoners will be tried at the nextassizes; the others were acquitted, though the evidence againstthem was the same as that on which Leary, &c. , were convicted. The exertions of O'Connell, who appears to have acted with greatability, produced this result. The Government say, of course, that he has acted very ill, but as the Judge, at the conclusionof the trial, said publicly that the defence had been conductedwith perfect regard to the due administration of the laws, we mayconclude that while he availed himself of every advantage, he didnot overstep the legitimate duty of an advocate to his client. Itis, however, agreed on all hands, notwithstanding these excesses, that the state of the country is improving, and the EmancipationBill producing fresh benefits every day. 

November 9th, 1829 {P. 239}

Dined to-day with Byng and met Tom Moore, who was very agreeable;he told us a great deal about his forthcoming 'Life of Byron. ' Heis nervous about it; he is employed in conjunction with Scott andMackintosh to write a history of England for one of the newpublications like the Family Library. [10] Scott is to writeScotland, Mackintosh England, and Moore Ireland; and they get£1, 000 apiece; but Scott could not compress his share into onevolume, so he is to have £1, 500. The republication of Scott'sworks will produce him an enormous fortune; he has already paidoff £30, 000 of the Constable bankruptcy debt, and he is to paythe remaining £30, 000 very soon. A new class of readers isproduced by the Bell and Lancaster schools, and this is the causeof the prodigious and extensive sale of cheap publications. Moorehad received a letter from Madame de Guiccioli to-day; he saysshe is not handsome. Byron's exploits, especially at Venice, seemto have been marvellous. Moore said he wrote with extraordinaryrapidity, but his corrections were frequent and laborious. Whenhe wrote the address for the opening of Drury Lane Theatre, hecorrected it repeatedly. 

 [10] Dr. Lardner's 'Cyclopaedia. ' Moore told me that the editor of one of the annuals offered him £600 to write two articles for his work, but 'that he loathed the task' and refused, though the money would have been very acceptable. The man said he did not care about the merit of the performance, and only wanted his name; when Moore refused, the editor raked out some old and forgotten lines of his to Perry, and inserted them with his name. --[C. C. G. ]

I saw Miss Fanny Kemble for the first time on Friday, and wasdisappointed. She is short, ill made, with large hands and feet, an expressive countenance, though not handsome, fine eyes, teeth, and hair, not devoid of grace, and with great energy and spirit, her voice good, though she has a little of the drawl of herfamily. She wants the pathos and tenderness of Miss O'Neill, andshe excites no emotion; but she is very young, clever, and maybecome a very good, perhaps a fine actress. Mrs. Siddons was notso good at her age. She fills the house every night. 

The King, who was to have gone to Brighton, has given it up, nobody knows why, but it is supposed that the Marchioness is notwell. This morning the Duke and my brother were occupied for halfan hour in endeavouring to fold a letter to his Majesty in aparticular way, which he has prescribed, for he will have hisenvelopes made up in some French fashion. I hear he thinks thathe rode Fleur de Lis for the cup at Goodwood, which he may aswell do as think (which he does) that he led the heavy dragoonsat Salamanca. 

O'Connell has been making a most infamous speech at Youghal, andis moving heaven and earth to begin a fresh agitation about theUnion, and to do all the mischief he can. Francis Leveson is tomeet Sheil at dinner to-morrow for the first time; he did notdare do this without asking leave of Peel. Peel answered hisletter that he 'rather inclined himself to do anything to winhim, but stating that the Duke would urge the difficulties oftheir position, and also the King's horror of the man, ' &c. TheKing's horror is in consequence of his speech about the Duke ofYork. I am told Greece is to be erected into a kingdom, with aboundary line drawn from Volo to Arta, and that the sovereigntyis to be offered to Prince Frederick of Orange, and, if herefuses it, to Leopold. 

[Page Head: SIR JAMES MACKINTOSH]

November 12th, 1829

At Roehampton at Lord Clifden's from Tuesday, the 10th, tillto-day; Sir James Mackintosh, Moore, Poodle Byng, [11] and theMaster of the Rolls. It was uncommonly agreeable. I never was inMackintosh's society for so long before, and never was morefilled with admiration. His prodigious memory and the variety andextent of his information remind me of all I have heard and readof Burke and Johnson; but his amiable, modest, and unassumingcharacter makes him far more agreeable than they could either ofthem (particularly Johnson) have been, while he is probablyequally instructive and amusing. Not a subject could be mentionedof which he did not treat with equal facility and abundance, fromthe Council of Trent to Voltaire's epistles; every subject, everycharacter, every work, all were familiar to him, and I do notknow a greater treat than to hear him talk. 

 [11] [Hon. Frederick Byng, formerly of the Foreign Office, universally known at this time as 'The Poodle, ' probably because he once kept a fine animal of that breed. ]

Mackintosh said he was a great reader of novels; had read 'OldMortality' four times in English and once in French. Ellis saidhe preferred Miss Austen's novels to Scott's. Talked of the oldnovelists--Fielding, little read now, Smollett less; Mackintoshis a great admirer of Swift, and does not think his infamousconduct to Vanessa quite made out. Talked of the articles of ourreligion, and said that they were in almost exact conformity withcertain doctrines laid down in the Council of Trent. TheJansenists differ very little from our Church, except as to thedoctrine of the Real Presence. Speaking of India, Mackintosh saidthat it was very remarkable that we had lost one great empire andgained another in the same generation, and that it was still amoot point whether the one really was a gain or the other a loss. Called America the second Maritime Power. Franklin wept when hequitted England. When he signed the treaty at Paris, he retiredfor a moment and changed his coat. It was remarked, and he saidhe had been to put on the coat in which he had been insulted byLord Loughborough at the English Council Board. Madame de Staël, he said, was more agreeable in _tête-à-tête_ than in society; shedespised her children, and said, 'Ils ne me ressemblent pas. ' Hetold her she did not do them justice, particularly her daughter. She said, 'C'est une lune bien pâle. ' She took an aversion toRogers, but when she met him at Bowood, and he told heranecdotes, she liked him. She had vanquished Brougham, and wasvery proud of those conquests. 

Moore told several stories which I don't recollect, but thisamused us:--Some Irish had emigrated to some West Indian colony;the negroes soon learnt their brogue, and when another shiploadof Irish came soon after, the negroes as they sailed in said, 'Ah, Paddy, how are you?' 'Oh, Christ!' said one of them, 'what, y're become black already!'

Moore, without displaying the astonishing knowledge ofMackintosh, was very full of information, gaiety, and humour. Twomore delightful days I never passed. I could not help reflectingwhat an extraordinary thing success is in this world, when a manso gifted as Mackintosh has failed completely in public life, never having attained honours, reputation, or wealth, while somany ordinary men have reaped an abundant harvest of all. What aconsolation this affords to mediocrity! None can approachMackintosh without admiring his extraordinary powers, and at thesame time wondering why they have not produced greater effects inthe world either of literature or politics. His virtues areobstacles to his success; he has not the art of pushing or ofmaking himself feared; he is too _doucereux_ and complimentary, and from some accident or defect in the composition of hischaracter, and in the course of events which have influenced hiscircumstances, he has always been civilly neglected. BothMackintosh and Moore told a great many anecdotes, but one morningat breakfast the latter related a story which struck us all. Mackintosh said it was enough to furnish materials for a novel, but that the simple narrative was so striking it ought to bewritten down without exaggeration or addition. I afterwards wroteit down as nearly as I could recollect it. It was Crampton, theSurgeon-General, who told it to Moore, and Crampton _loquitur_. 

[Page Head: SIR PHILIP CRAMPTON'S STORY]

'Some years ago I was present at a duel that was fought between ayoung man of the name of MacLoughlin and another Irishman. MacL. Was desperately wounded; his second ran up to him, and thought toconsole him with the intelligence that his antagonist had alsofallen. He only replied, "I am sorry for it if he is suffering asmuch as I do now. " I was struck by the good feeling evinced inthis reply, and took an interest in the fate of the young man. Herecovered, and a few years after my interest was again powerfullyexcited by hearing that he had been arrested on suspicion ofhaving murdered his father-in-law, his mother's second husband. He was tried and found guilty on the evidence of a soldier whohappened to be passing in the middle of the night near the housein which the murder was committed. Attracted by a light whichgleamed through the lower part of the window, he approached it, and through an opening between the shutter and the frame was ableto look into the room. There he saw a man in the act of lifting adead body from the floor, while his hands and clothes werestained all over with blood. He hastened to give information ofwhat he had seen; MacLoughlin and his mother were apprehended, and the former, having been identified by the soldier, was foundguilty. There was no evidence against the woman, and she wasconsequently acquitted. MacLoughlin conducted himself throughoutthe trial with determined calmness, and never could be induced toacknowledge his guilt. The morning of his execution he had aninterview with his mother; none knew what passed between them, but when they parted he was heard to say, "Mother, may Godforgive you!" The fate of this young man made a deep impressionon me, till time and passing events effaced the occurrence frommy mind. It was several years afterwards that I one day receiveda letter from a lady (a very old and intimate acquaintance)entreating that I would immediately hasten down to the assistanceof a Roman Catholic priest who was lying dangerously ill at herhouse, and the symptoms of whose malady she described. Herdescription left me doubtful whether the mind or the body of thepatient was affected. Being unable to leave Dublin, I wrote tosay that if the disease was bodily the case was hopeless, but ifmental I should recommend certain lenitives, for which I added aprescription. The priest died, and shortly after his death thelady confided to me an extraordinary and dreadful story. He hadbeen her confessor and intimate friend, and in moments of agonyand doubt produced by horrible recollections he had revealed toher a secret which had been imparted to him in confession. He hadreceived the dying confession of MacLoughlin, who, as it turnedout, was not the murderer of his father-in-law, but had died tosave the life and honour of his mother, by whom the crime hadbeen really committed. She was a woman of violent passions; shehad quarrelled with her husband in the middle of the night, andafter throwing him from the bed had despatched him by repeatedblows. When she found he was dead she was seized with terror, andhastening to the apartment of her son, called him to witness theshocking spectacle and to save her from the consequences of hercrime. It was at this moment, when he was lifting the body andpreparing to remove the bloody evidence of his mother's guilt, that the soldier passed by and saw him in the performance of hisdreadful task. To the priest alone he acknowledged the truth, buthis last words to his mother were now explained. '

[Page Head: TOM MOORE]

November 20th, 1829

Roehampton. Only Moore and myself; Washington Irving and Maclane, the American Minister, come to-morrow. Moore spoke in the highestterms of Luttrell, of his wit and information, and of hiswritings, to which he does not think the world does justice, particularly the 'Advice to Julia, ' but he says Luttrell is toofearful of giving offence. Moore was very agreeable, told a storyof Sir ---- St. George in Ireland. He was to attend a meeting atwhich a great many Catholics were to be present (I forget where), got drunk and lost his hat, when he went into the room where theywere assembled and said, 'Damnation to you all; I came toemancipate you, and you've stole my hat. ' In the evening Mooresang, but the pianoforte was horrid, and he was not in goodvoice; still his singing 'va dritto al cuore, ' for it produces anexceeding sadness, and brings to mind a thousand melancholyrecollections, and generates many melancholy anticipations. Hetold me as we came along that with him it required no thought towrite, but that there was no end to it; so many fancies on everysubject crowded on his brain; that he often read what he hadwritten as if it had been the composition of another, and wasamused; that it was the greatest pleasure to him to compose thoselight and trifling pieces, humorous and satirical, which had beenso often successful. He holds Voltaire to have been the mostextraordinary genius that ever lived, on account of hisuniversality and fertility; talked of Scott and his wonderfullabour and power of composition, as well as the extent to whichhe has carried the art of book-making; besides writing thishistory of Scotland for Dr. Lardner's 'Encyclopaedia, ' he isworking at the prefaces for the republication of the WaverleyNovels, the 'Tales of a Grandfather, ' and has still found time toreview Tytler, which he has done out of the scraps and chips ofhis other works. A little while ago he had to correct some of theproofs of the history of Scotland, and, being dissatisfied withwhat was done, he nearly wrote it over again, and sent it up tothe editor. Some time after finding another copy of the proofs, he forgot that he had corrected them before, and he rewrote thesealso and sent them up, and the editor is at this moment engagedin selecting from the two corrected copies the best parts ofeach. 

Yesterday I met the Chancellor at dinner at the Master of theRolls', when he told me about the King and Denman. [12] The Kingwould not have the Recorder's report last week, because theRecorder was too ill to attend, and he was resolved not to seeDenman. The Duke went to him, when he threw himself into aterrible tantrum, and was so violent and irritable that they wereobliged to let him have his own way for fear he should be ill, which they thought he would otherwise certainly be. He is ratherthe more furious with Denman from having been forced to consentto his having the silk gown, and he said at that time that heshould never set his foot in any house of his; so that businessis at a standstill, and the unfortunate wretches under sentenceof death are suffered to linger on, because he does not choose todo his duty and admit to his presence an officer to whom he hastaken an aversion. As the Chancellor said to me, 'the fact is, heis mad. ' The fact is that he is a spoiled, selfish, odious beast, and has no idea of doing anything but what is agreeable tohimself, or of there being any duties attached to the office heholds. The expenses of the Civil List exceed the allowance inevery branch, every quarter; but nobody can guess how the moneyis spent, for the King makes no show and never has anybody there. My belief is that ---- and ---- ---- plunder him, or rather thecountry, between them, in certain stipulated proportions. Amongother expenses his tailor's bill is said to be £4, 000 or £5, 000 ayear. He is now employed in devising a new dress for the Guards. 

 [12] [Thomas Denman, afterwards Lord Denman and Lord Chief Justice of England, was at this time Common Serjeant of the City of London. George IV. Hated him for the part he had taken on the Queen's trial, and did all he could to prevent his having a silk gown. _Vide supra_, p. 156, January 16th, 1829. ]

[Page Head: STRAWBERRY HILL]

November 21st, 1829 {p. 247}

Maclane, the American Minister, could not come, but Irving did. He is lively and unassuming, rather vulgar, very good-humoured. We went to Strawberry Hill to-day--Moore, Ellis, Lady Georgiana, and I. Ellis is an excellent cicerone; everything is in the statein which old Horace Walpole left it, and just as his catalogueand description describe it. He says in that work that he makesthat catalogue to provide against the dispersion of hiscollections, and he tied up everything as strictly as possible. Moore sang in the evening and was very agreeable the whole day. He said that Byron thought that Crabbe and Coleridge had the mostgenius and feeling of any living poet. Nobody reads Crabbe now. How dangerous it is to be a story-teller, however agreeable themanner or amusing the budget, for Moore to-day told a story whichhe told here last week! However, they all laughed just the same, except me, and I moralised upon it thus. Clifden is a very oddman, shrewd and well informed, and somewhat sarcastic, but verygay and good-humoured, fond of society and the 'Times' newspaper, a great enemy to the Church, and chuckles over its alarms and itsdangers, but I was amused with a comical contradiction. Somebodytold a story about an erratum in an Irish paper, which said thatsuch a one had abjured the errors of the Romish Church andembraced those of the Protestant, at which he was greatlydiverted, and said, 'That is just what I should have saidmyself;' and to-day after dinner, all of a sudden, he said grace(he says grace on Sunday only). 

Moore gave an account this morning of his being examined inTrinity College, Dublin, when a boy, during the rebellion. Manyof the youths (himself, and he says he is pretty sure Croker, among the number) had taken the oath of the United Irishmen[13](Emmett[14] and some others who were in the College hadabsconded). The Chancellor (Lord Clare) came to the College, erected his tribunal, and examined all the students upon oath. Heasked first if they had belonged to any society of United Irish, and, if the answer was in the affirmative, he asked whom they hadever seen there and what had passed. Contumacy was punishable byexpulsion and exclusion from every profession. At the end of thefirst day's examination Moore went home to his parents, and toldthem he could not take an oath which might oblige him tocriminate others (as he should be forced to answer any questionthey might choose to put), and though they were poor, and hadconceived great hopes of him, they encouraged him in thisresolution. The next day he was called forth, when he refused tobe sworn, stating his reasons why. The Chancellor said he did notcome there to dispute with him, but added that they should onlyask him general questions, on which he took the oath, butreserved to himself the power of declining to answer particularquestions. They only asked him such questions as he couldconscientiously answer (they had got all the information theywanted, and were beginning to relax), but when they had done withhim Lord Clare asked him why he had demurred to answer. He saidhe was afraid he might be called on to criminate others, and thathe had never taken an oath before, and naturally felt somereluctance and dread on such an occasion. 

 [13] He did not take the oath till after this examination. 

 [14] He had lived in intimacy with Emmett. 

Moore told a story of an Irishman who saw from the pit a friendof his acting Othello, and he called out, 'Larry, Larry, Larry, there's the least taste in life of your linen hanging out!' Oneday in America near the falls of Niagara Moore saw this scene:--An Indian whose boat was moored to the shore was making love tothe wife of another Indian; the husband came upon them unawares;he jumped into the boat, when the other cut the cord, and in aninstant it was carried into the middle of the stream, and beforehe could seize his paddle was already within the rapids. Heexerted all his force to extricate himself from the peril, butfinding that his efforts were vain, and his canoe was drawn withincreasing rapidity towards the Falls, he threw away his paddle, drank off at a draught the contents of a bottle of brandy, tossedthe empty bottle into the air, then quietly folded his arms, extended himself in the boat, and awaited with perfect calmnesshis inevitable fate. In a few moments he was whirled down theFalls and disappeared for ever. 

Washington Irving wants sprightliness and more refined manners. He was in Spain four years, at Madrid, Seville, and Grenada. While at the latter place he was lodged in the Alhambra, which isexcellently preserved and very beautiful; he gives a deplorabledescription of the ignorance and backward state of the Spaniards. When he returned to France he was utterly uninformed of what hadbeen passing in Europe while he was in Spain, and he says that henow constantly hears events alluded to of which he knows nothing. 

[Page Head: LORD GLENGALL'S COMEDY]

December 1st, 1829 {p. 249}

After I left Roehampton last week came to town and dined withByng, Moore, Irving, Sir T. Lawrence, and Vesey Fitzgerald; veryagreeable. No news but the failure of the Spanish expeditionagainst Mexico, which capitulated, and the soldiers promisednever to bear arms against Mexico again. On Friday went to seeLord Glengall's comedy, with a prologue by F. Mills and anepilogue by Alvanley. [15] It succeeded, though the first two actswent off heavily; not much novelty in it, but the characters welldrawn and some of the situations very good: it amused me verywell, and was exceedingly well acted. Glengall came to meafterwards to get criticisms on his play. I told him some of thefaults, and he was not in the Sir Fretful line, but took it allvery thankfully. At Roehampton on Sunday; Byng, Sir RobertWilson, Sharpe, [16] and Luttrell. There is a joke of Luttrell'sabout Sharpe. He was a wholesale hatter formerly; having a dingycomplexion, somebody said he had transferred the colour of hishats to his face, when Luttrell said that 'it was _darkness whichmight be felt_. ' Wilson has written to the Sultan a letter fullof advice, and he says the Turks will be more powerful than ever. Wilson is always full of opinions and facts; the former are wildand extravagant, the latter generally false. 

 [15] [A comedy by the Earl of Glengall, entitled 'The Follies of Fashion. ']

 [16] [Richard Sharpe, Esq. , well known by the _sobriquet_ of 'Conversation Sharpe. ']

No Council yet; the King is employed in altering the uniforms ofthe Guards, and has pattern coats with various collars submittedto him every day. The Duke of Cumberland assists him, and this ishis principal occupation; he sees much more of his tailor than hedoes of his Minister. The Duke of Cumberland's boy, who is atKew, diverts himself with making the guard turn out several timesin the course of the day to salute him. 

December 3rd, 1829 {p. 250}

Came from Roehampton. Lady Pembroke and her daughter, Luttrelland I, and the Lievens, dined there one day. Lady Pembroke wasCountess Woronzow; Lord Pembroke pleaded poverty all his life, and died leaving each of his five daughters £20, 000, and his wife£200, 000 to do what she liked with. Old Woronzow was Ambassadorhere many years, has lived here ever since, and never learnt aword of English. His son Michel is one of the most distinguishedofficers in the Russian army, and now Governor of Odessa and theprovince of which that city is the capital. 

I went to see Glengall's play again, which was much better actedthan the first time, and, having been curtailed, went off verywell. Henry de Ros, Glengall, and I went together. I was verymuch amused (but did not venture to show it) at a point in one ofthe scenes between Lureall and Sir S. Foster: the latter said, 'Let me tell you, sir, that a country gentleman residing on hisestate is as valuable a member of society as a man of fashion inLondon who lives by plundering those who have more money and lesswit than himself;' when De Ros turned to Glengall and said, 'Richard, there appears to me to be a great deal of twaddle inthis play; besides, you throw over the good cause. '

[Page Head: THE RECORDER'S REPORT]

December 5th, 1829 {p. 250}

This morning the Duke of Wellington sent for me about the Councilon Monday, and after settling that matter he began talking aboutthe King's conduct with reference to the Recorder's report. Itold him it was thought very extraordinary. He said, 'You have noidea what a scene I had with him; there never was anything likeit. I never saw him so violent. ' He then rang the bell, whenDrummond (his secretary) appeared, and the Duke desired him tobring the correspondence with the King about the Recorder, whichwas done. He then said, 'I came to town on the Monday for theCouncil and report, which was to have been on Tuesday, and whichhe had himself settled, without consulting me; in the afternoonPhillips came to me and said that the Recorder could not attend, and that they did not know if his Majesty would receive Denman. Iwrote to the King directly this letter. ' He then read the letter, which was to this effect: that he informed the King that theRecorder was ill, and therefore the Common Serjeant, Mr. Denman, would have the honour of making the report to his Majesty; thathe thought it right to apprise him of this, and if he had anyobjection to receive Mr. Denman, it would be better to put offthe Council, as no other person could now lay the report beforehim. 'To this the King wrote an answer, beginning "My dear Duke, "not as usual, ' the Duke said, '"My dear Friend, " that the stateof his eyes would not allow him to write by candle-light, and hewas therefore obliged to make use of an amanuensis. The letterwas written by Watson, and signed by the King, "Your sincereFriend, G. R. " It was to the effect that he was quite surprisedthe Duke should have made him such a proposal; that he had beengrossly insulted by Denman, and would never admit him to hispresence; that it had been settled the Deputy-Recorder, Arabin, in the absence of the Recorder, should make the report, and thathe had already done so; that he was surprised, knowing as theDuke must do the firmness of his character, that he should thinkhim capable of yielding on this subject; that he never would doso, and desired the Council might take place, and the report bemade by Arabin. ' His letter was much longer, but this was thepith of it. On the receipt of this the Duke held a consultationwith Peel and the Chancellor, when they determined to put off theCouncil, which was done, and the Duke wrote to the King, asnearly as I can recollect, as follows. This was an admirableletter--business-like, firm, and respectful:--'That upon thereceipt of his Majesty's letter he had thought it his duty toconsult the Chancellor, and that they had come to the resolutionof postponing the Council and report; that the making of thisreport was the privilege of the City of London, and that theRecorder in the execution of this duty, being unable to attend, had placed it in the hands of the Common Serjeant, whose duty itthen became to present it; that it was now in his hands, andcould not be withdrawn without his consent; that the onlyoccasion on which it had been presented by Mr. Serjeant Arabinhad been when the Common Serjeant was on the circuit; that as hisMajesty objected to admit Mr. Denman to his presence, they hadthought it best to put off the Council, as if Mr. Arabin wassummoned he could have no report to present, and there wouldprobably arise some discussion between the Common Serjeant andhim, which would be a proceeding such as ought not to take placein his Majesty's palace, and that he would wait upon his Majestythe next morning and take his commands upon the subject. ' Thenext day, he continued, he went to Windsor, where he had a grandscene with his Majesty. 'I am sure, ' said the Duke, 'that nobodycan manage him but me. ' He repeated all he had said in hisletter, and a great deal more; represented to him that havinggiven his sanction to the official appointment of Denman sincethe Queen's trial, he could not refuse to receive him in theexecution of his duty without alleging legal objections for sodoing; to which the King replied that Lord Liverpool had behavedvery ill to him, and had made him do this; and then he becamevery violent, and cursed and swore, and said he never would seehim. The Duke said that he might put off the report; that therewere three men who must be hanged, and it did not signify onefarthing whether they were kept in prison a little longer orshorter time (he forgets that there are others lying undersentence of death, probably several), and that he had better putit off than have the Common Serjeant come down to a scene in hispalace. After letting him run on in his usual way, and exhausthis violence, he left him, and the report stands over once more;but the Duke told me that it could not stand over after this, andif the Recorder is not well enough when the time arrives for thenext report, his Majesty must receive Denman whether he will orno, and that he shall insist upon it. He told me the wholehistory in great detail mixed with pretty severe strictures onthe King. I have put down all I could carry away. I have not sucha memory (or such an invention) as Bourrienne. 

[Page Head: THE CIVIL LIST]

The Duke then told me that he had made strong remonstrances aboutthe excess of expenditure on the Civil List; that in the LordSteward's department there had been an excess of £7, 000, in thatof the Master of the Horse of £5, 000, and that of the Master ofthe Robes (the tailor's bill) of £10, 000 in the last half-year;[17]that he had stated that unless they could save the difference inthe next half-year, or pay it out of the Privy Purse, he must goto Parliament, which would bring the whole of the expenses of theCivil List under discussion. He said it was very extraordinary, that the King's expenses appeared to be nothing; his Majesty hadnot more tables than he (the Duke) had. 

 [17] I am not sure that I am correct in the sums, but very nearly so. --[C. C. G. ]

I asked him about Brummell and his Consulship. He said Aberdeenhesitated; that he had offered to take all the responsibility onhimself; that he had in Dudley's time proposed it to him(Dudley), who had objected, and at last owned he was afraid theKing might not like it, on which he had spoken to the King, whohad made objections, abusing Brummell--said he was a damnedfellow and had behaved very ill to him (the old story, alwayshimself--_moi, moi, moi_)--but after having let him run outhis tether of abuse, he had at last extracted his consent;nevertheless Dudley did not give him the appointment. The Dukesaid he had no acquaintance with Brummell. 

 CHAPTER VII. 

Chapter of the Bath--The Duc de Dino arrested--A Ball to the Divan--English Policy in Greece--Sir Thomas Lawrence-- Gallatin--Court of King's Bench--Accident to the Grand Duke Constantine--Osterley--Young Sidney Herbert--Duke of Wellington in Office--Stapleton's 'Life of Canning'--Death of Sir Thomas Lawrence--Leopold and the Throne of Greece--Canning's Answers to Lord Grey--Distressed State of the Country--Canning's Greatness and his Failings--Death of Tierney--Sir Martin Shee President--The Duke of Wellington's Views and Conduct--The Coming Session--Moore's 'Life of Byron'--Character of Byron-- Opening of Parliament--The Fire King--The Duke of Wellington's Speaking--The English Opera House burnt down--Lord Thurlow on Kenyon and Buller--Old Rothschild--Lansdowne House--Earl Stanhope--John Murray--Departure for Italy. 

December 7th, 1829 {p. 254}

At Windsor for a Council; the Duke was there, and Lord Aberdeen, Murray, Lord Rosslyn, the Chancellor, and Herries. There was achapter of the Bath, when the Duke of Clarence was installedGrand Master, Stratford Canning and Robert Gordon Grand Crosses. The King looked very well, but was very blind. The Council was bycandle-light, but he could not see to read the list, and begged meto read it for him. However, I was so good a courtier that I heldthe candle in such a way as to enable him to read it himself. Hesaw the Duke for a short time, and the Chancellor for a longtime. I asked the latter if the King had been _Denmanising_, andhe said, 'Oh, yes--"I said when I consented to that fellow'shaving the silk gown that I would never admit him, " &c. ' I wasamused with old Conyngham, who told me his wife had been indanger, 'so they tell me, ' talking of her as if she were somebodyelse's wife. The Duke went from the Council to Stowe; we allreturned to town. 

[Page Head: THE DUC DE DINO ARRESTED]

December 9th, 1829 {p. 254}

Dined with Prince Lieven; a great dinner--Laval, [1] Granvilles, Aberdeen, Montrond, &c. The Duc de Dino, who came here to amusehimself, has been arrested, and Montrond and Vaudreuil beggedLaval to put him on his list of _attachés_ at the Foreign Office, which would release him from the sponging-house. He was afraidand made difficulties; they were excessively provoked, but atlast induced him to speak to Lord Aberdeen about it, which hesaid he would do after dinner. In the meantime Montrond got me totell the story to Aberdeen, which I did, and got him to encourageLaval to do the business. He then told Laval that I had _aplani_the matter, at which the Ambassador was rather affronted, but Isuppose the thing will be done and Dino will get out. The Duc deDino is Talleyrand's nephew, and his son has married Mademoisellede Montmorency, a relation of the Duc de Laval. 

 [1] [The Duc de Laval had succeeded Prince Polignac as French Ambassador in London. ]

December 10th, 1829 {p. 255}

Last night Miss Kemble acted Belvidera for the first time, andwith great success. 

December 18th, 1829 {p. 255}

At Roehampton last Saturday to Monday; Granvilles, Byng, LordAshley, and I. Dino was extricated from prison by Laval's payingthe money, which he did very handsomely; he thought it wrong tohave him in prison and wrong to attach him fictitiously to hisEmbassy, so he paid the debt, and Dino is gone back to France. 

Despatches were received from Gordon yesterday giving an accountof a ball he had given to the Divan; the Turks came, and theReis-Effendi waltzed with a Mrs. Moore. After supper they drankKing George IV. 's health in bumpers of champagne. This story wastold to Lord Sidmouth as a good joke; but he said with a face ofdismay, 'Good God, is it possible? To what extent will theseinnovations be carried?'

December 19th, 1829 {p. 255}

There is a review in the 'Foreign Quarterly' (the last number) onGreece, which is a remarkably able critique of the conduct of ourGovernment in the affairs of that State. The writer, whoever hemay be, has been amply supplied with documents and information, probably from Paris. Nothing can be more just than his remarks onour miserable policy, or more severe. I showed it to LordGranville, who told me that it was generally correct, thoughcontaining some errors; for instance, that it was not true thatwe had engaged to afford the Greeks pecuniary aid, which we neverdid promise, but that he had been himself the person to negotiatewith M. De la Ferronays, then Minister for Foreign Affairs atParis, for the more limited boundary, and to dissuade the Frenchfrom sending their expedition to the Morea; that there had been aviolent contest in the English Cabinet on that subject, Huskissonand Dudley being in favour of the French expedition, and the Dukeand the rest against it, but that the moment Huskisson and hisparty resigned the Duke gave way and agreed to the measure. Thisaffords another example of his extraordinary mode of proceeding, that of opposing the views and plans of others violently, andwhen he finds opposition fruitless, or likely to become so, turning short round and adopting them as his own, and taking allthe credit he can get for doing so. He did so in the case of therecognition of the South American colonies, of the Test andCorporation Acts, the Catholic question, and in this instance. Then his conduct on the Corn Bill is only the converse of thesame proposition--begins by being a party to it and then procuresits rejection. Greece and Portugal, if well handled, would affordtwo great cases against the Duke's foreign policy, and they serveas admirable commentaries on each other. The raising the siege ofPrevisa, and the respect paid to Miguel's blockade, andcompulsion exercised on the Terceira people are enough to proveeverything. 

Ashley told me a curious thing about Sir Thomas Lawrence theother day. His father kept the inn at Devizes, [2] and when LordShaftesbury's father and mother were once at the inn with LordShaftesbury, then a boy, the innkeeper came into the room andsaid he had a son with a genius for drawing, and, if they wouldallow him, his little boy should draw their little boy's picture;on which the little Lawrence was sent for, who produced his chalkand paper, and made a portrait of the young Lord. 

 [2] [Sir Thomas Lawrence's father at one time kept the 'Black Bear' at Devizes. In 1775 Lord and Lady Kenyon had the young prodigy (as he was called) introduced to them there. Lawrence was then only six years old. ]

[Page Head: GALLATIN]

December 21st, 1829 {p. 257}

At Roehampton from Saturday; Maclane, the American Minister, Washington Irving, Melbourne, Byng, and on Sunday the Lievens todinner. Maclane a sensible man, with very good American manners, which are not refined. Even Irving, who has been so many yearshere, has a bluntness which is very foreign to the tone of goodsociety. Maclane gave me a curious account of Gallatin. He wasborn at Geneva, and went over to America early in life, possessedof nothing; there he set up a little huxtering shop--in I forgetwhat State--and fell in love with one of the daughters of a poorwoman at whose house he lodged, but he was so destitute that themother refused him. In this abject condition accident introducedhim to the celebrated Patrick Henry, who advised him to abandontrade, and go into the neighbouring State and try to advancehimself by his talents. He followed the advice, and soon began tomake himself known. 

December 22nd, 1829 {p. 257}

Dined with Byng yesterday and met Moore, Fitzgerald, andLuttrell. Luttrell is a great lover of conundrums, which taste heacquired from Beresford, the author of the 'Miseries of HumanLife, ' who has invented some very curious but elaborateconundrums. They are not worth repeating. Moore told a story ofan Irishman at the play calling out, 'Now, boys, a clap forWellington!' which being complied with, 'And now silence for therest of the family!' He complained that all the humour which usedto break out in an Irish audience is extinct. 

Fitzgerald told me that the King had been annoying them as muchas he could, that he took pleasure in making his Government weak, that the money matter (which the Duke told me of before) had beensettled by 'contrivances, ' or that they must have gone toParliament for the amount; that he has just ordered plate to theamount of £25, 000. Fitzgerald is so ill that he can scarcelycarry on the business of his office, and yet he does not like togive it up, for fear of embarrassing the Government; hecomplained that the other offices had thrown much of theirbusiness on the Board of Trade, a custom which had grown up inHuskisson's time, who was the most competent man, and who took itall. Probably Huskisson was not sorry, by making himself veryuseful, to make himself nearly indispensable, and thought that hewas so; and so he was _de jure_, but the Duke would not let himbe so _de facto_. 

[Page Head: PRESS PROSECUTIONS]

December 23rd, 1829 {p. 258}

Went to the Court of King's Bench this morning to prove that theDuke of Wellington is a Privy Councillor, on the trial of theaction which the Duke brought against the 'Morning Journal. ' Theaction brought by the Chancellor had been tried the day before. Scarlett was feeble; Alexander again defended himself in a verypoor speech; the jury retired for three hours, and I thoughtwould have said 'Not guilty;' but they brought in a verdict whichis tantamount to a defeat of the prosecution on this charge, andamply proves the folly of having instituted it at all. I did nothear the second trial, on which they gave a verdict of guilty, after consulting for about half an hour. The jury in each caseconsisted of eight special jurors and four talesmen. Afterwardsthere was a _crim. Con. _ case, which I did not stay out, butwhich was amusing enough from the translations of the counsel, the Judge, the witnesses, and the interpreters, for some of thewitnesses were French. Lord Tenterden has a comical way ofmuttering to himself half aloud as the counsel are speaking, either answering or commenting on what they say. Scarlett wassaying (in this last case) that he could not prove the fact, buthe could prove that the defendant passed the night in the lady'sroom, and the jury might judge what he did, when Tenterdenmuttered, 'If he did nothing, what was he there for?'

The prosecution finished with the trial of Bell (of the 'Atlas'), who made a very good speech (it was about Lord and LadyLyndhurst), and the jury found him guilty of publishing only, which I take to be an acquittal; the point, however, will not betried probably, for it is not likely that he will be brought upfor judgment. He will be contented to get off, and they will notlike to stir such a question. The result of the trials proves theegregious folly of having ever brought them on, especially theDuke's. One of the verdicts is, as far as he is concerned, anacquittal; the author showed himself to be so contemptible thathe had better have been treated with indifference. He has beenconverted into a sort of martyr, and whatever may have beenthought of the vulgar scurrility of the language, ruin andimprisonment will appear to most people too severe a punishmentfor the offence. Then the whole press have united upon thisoccasion, and in some very powerful articles have spread to everycorner of the country the strongest condemnation of the wholeproceeding. The Government, or rather the Duke, is likely tobecome unpopular, and no good end will have been answered. I donot believe that these prosecutions originate in a desire to curbthe press, but merely in that of punishing a writer who had soviolently abused him; not, however, that he would be sorry toadopt any measure which should tend to fetter free discussion, and subject the press to future punishment. But this would be afearful war to wage, and I do not think he is rash enough toundertake such a crusade. 

December 27th, 1829 {p. 259}

At Panshanger since the 24th; Lievens, J. Russell, Montrond, M. De la Rochefoucauld, F. Lamb. On Christmas Day the Princess[Lieven] got up a little _fête_ such as is customary all overGermany. Three trees in great pots were put upon a long tablecovered with pink linen; each tree was illuminated with threecircular tiers of coloured wax candles--blue, green, red, andwhite. Before each tree was displayed a quantity of toys, gloves, pocket-handkerchiefs, workboxes, books, and various articles--presents made to the owner of the tree. It was very pretty. Hereit was only for the children; in Germany the custom extends topersons of all ages. The Princess told us to-day about theEmperor of Russia's relapse and the cause of it. He had had acold which he had neglected, but at length the physicians hadgiven him some medicine to produce perspiration, and he was inbed in that state, the Empress sitting by him reading to him, when on a sudden a dreadful noise was heard in the next (thechildren's) room, followed by loud shrieks. The Empress rushedinto the room, and the Emperor jumped out of bed in his shirt andfollowed her. There the children, the governess, and the nurseswere screaming out that Constantine (the second boy, of two yearsold) was destroyed; a huge vase of porphyry had been thrown downand had fallen over the child, who was not to be seen. So greatwas the weight and size of the vase that it was several minutesbefore it could be raised, though assistance was immediatelyfetched, and all that time the Emperor and Empress stood there inignorance of the fate of the child, and expecting to see theremoval of the vase discover his mangled body, when to theirdelight it was found that the vase had fallen exactly over him, without doing him the least injury, but the agitation and thecold brought on a violent fever, which for some time put theEmperor in great danger. The Princess said she was surprised thatit did not kill the Empress, for she is the most nervous woman inthe world, ever since the conspiracy at the time of hisaccession, when her nerves were _ébranlés_ by all she wentthrough. That scene (of the revolt of the Guards) took placeunder the window of the Palace. The whole Imperial Family wasassembled there and saw it all, the Emperor being in the middleof men by whom they expected him to be assassinated every moment. During all that time--many hours--the young Empress never spoke, but stood 'pâle comme une statue, ' and when at length it was allover, and the Emperor returned, she threw herself on her kneesand began to pray. 

December 29th, 1829 {p. 260}

At Osterley;[3] Lady Euston, Mrs. Sheridan and her son; a veryfine house, which is thrown away, as they hardly ever live there. They spent £200, 000 in building Middleton, which is the worstplace in England, and now they regret it, but Lord Jersey hatesOsterley and likes Middleton. This place belonged to Sir ThomasGresham, but the present house is modern. It was here that SirThomas Gresham feasted Queen Elizabeth, and pulled down a wall inthe night which she had found fault with, so that in the morningshe found it was gone. 

 [3] [Lord Jersey's seat near Hanwell, Middlesex. ]

 1830. 

[Page Head: WELLINGTON AS A MINISTER]

January 2nd, 1830 {p. 261}

At Roehampton; William Howard, Baring Wall, and Lady Pembroke'sson;[4] the best sort of youth I have seen for a long while, andhe will have £12, 000 a year, besides what his mother may leavehim. Vesey Fitzgerald is so ill that it is doubtful if he willrecover, and, at all events, almost impossible that he shouldremain in office. It will be very difficult for the Duke to fillhis place. There is not a man in office now who is fit for it, and where is he to look for anyone else? Yet I think almostanybody would take it; for although the late prosecutions areblamed, and the foreign policy is thought by most people to havebeen very miserable, there is an extensive disposition to supportthe Duke and to keep him at the head of affairs. Huskisson is theman whose knowledge and capacity would be of the greatest servicejust now, but the Duke will not like to apply to him in a momentof distress, because he would probably take advantage of thatdistress to make better terms for himself; at the same time, Ishould not be surprised if the Duke were to invite him to returnto the Cabinet, and that he accepted the Chancellorship of theExchequer or one of the Secretaryships without any conditions. Vesey will be a great loss, for he is clever and ready in debate, and by great diligence and application, and the powerfulassistance of Hume and Stephen, he has made considerable progressin the science of trade and commerce. 

 [4] [Sidney Herbert, afterwards Lord Herbert of Lea, whose life and character did not belie the promise of his youth. ]

January 5th, 1830 {p. 261}

There are many speculations about Vesey's successor; some thinkLord Chandos or Herries; I think Frankland Lewis, but that LordChandos will have some place before long; the Duke has a greathankering after that set. In the meantime all accounts concur inadmitting the great and increasing distress; and, as such a stateof things not unnaturally produces a good deal of ill-humour, theDuke is abused for gadding about visiting and shooting while thecountry is in difficulty, and it is argued that he must be veryunfeeling and indifferent to it all to amuse himself in thismanner. Nothing can be more unjust than such accusations asthese. The sort of relaxation he takes is necessary to hishealth, and, all things considered, it is not extraordinary heshould prefer other people's houses to his own, particularly wheneveryone invites him in the most pressing manner. But thesevisits by no means interrupt the course of his official business;all his letters are regularly sent to him, and as regularlyanswered every day, and it is his habit to open his lettershimself, to read them all, and to answer all. He never receivesany letter, whatever may be the subject or the situation of thewriter, that he does not answer, and that immediately, to adegree which is not only unprecedented, but quite unnecessary, and I think unwise, although certainly it contributes to hispopularity. It is another proof of that simplicity of characterand the absence of all arrogance which are so remarkable in him, especially as he has long been used to command and to implicitobedience, and the whole tenor of his conduct since he has beenin office shows that he is covetous of power and authority, andwill not endure anybody who will not be subservient to him; stillin his manner and bearing there is nothing but openness, frankness, civility, and good-humour. As to his supposedindifference to the public distress, I firmly believe that hismind is incessantly occupied with projects for its relief, andthat when unwarped by particular prejudices, partialities, andantipathies, which have had a stronger and more frequentinfluence over him than befits so great a man, he is animatedwith a sincere desire to reform abuses of any kind, and is notdiverted from his purpose by any personal considerations orcollateral objects. The King is preparing for a new battle withhim (stimulated, I presume, by the Duke of Cumberland) about theappointment of sheriffs. He has taken it into his head that hewill not appoint any Roman Catholic sheriff; and as several havebeen named, and these generally first on the list, according tothe usual practice, they must be chosen. The King will be obligedto give way, but it is an additional proof of his bad dispositionand his pleasure in thwarting his Ministers on every possibleoccasion. 

[Page Head: STAPLETON'S 'MEMOIRS OF CANNING']

January 7th, 1830 {p. 263}

Stapleton's 'Memoirs of Canning' are coming out directly, but heis prevented from making use of all the documents he, or ratherLady Canning, has. She has had an angry correspondence with theForeign Office. Every Minister takes away a _précis_ of all hehas done while in office, but Canning's _précis_ was not finishedwhen he died. She wrote and demanded that what was incompleteshould be furnished to her, but claimed it as a right, and saidit was for the purpose of vindicating him. Lord Aberdeen declinedgiving it, and I think very properly. The reason he assigned wasthat a Minister who was furnished with such documents for his ownjustification was bound by his oath of secresy not to reveal thecontents, but the secrets of the State could not be imparted toany irresponsible person, who was under no such restraint. 

Vesey Fitzgerald is better, but will hardly be able to do anybusiness. Some think he will have leave of absence, that Dawsonwill exchange offices with Courtenay, and do the business of theBoard of Trade; others, that Herries will succeed Vesey, orFrankland Lewis. The revenue has fallen off one million and more. The accounts of distress from the country grow worse and moredesponding, and a return to one pound notes begins to be talkedof. 

Roehampton, January 9th, 1830 {p. 263}

Yesterday morning died Sir Thomas Lawrence after a very shortillness. Few people knew he was ill before they heard he wasdead. He was _longè primus_ of all living painters, and has leftno one fit to succeed him in the chair of the Royal Academy. Lawrence was about sixty, very like Canning in appearance, remarkably gentlemanlike, with very mild manners, though rathertoo _doucereux_, agreeable in society, unassuming, and not agreat talker; his mind was highly cultivated, he had a taste forevery kind of literature, and was enthusiastically devoted to hisart; he was very industrious, and painted an enormous number ofportraits, but many of his later works are still unfinished, andgreat complaints used to be made of his exacting either the wholeor half payment when he began a picture, but that when he had gotthe money he could never be prevailed on to complete it. Althoughhe is supposed to have earned enormous sums by his paintings, hehas always been a distressed man, without any visible means ofexpense, except a magnificent collection of drawings by theancient masters, said to be the finest in the world, and procuredat great cost. He was, however, a generous patron of youngartists of merit and talent. It was always said that he lostmoney at play, but this assertion seems to have proceeded morefrom the difficulty of reconciling his pecuniary embarrassmentswith his enormous profits than from any proof of the fact. He wasa great courtier, and is said to have been so devoted to the Kingthat he would not paint anybody who was personally obnoxious tohis Majesty; but I do not believe this is true. He is anirreparable loss; since Sir Joshua there has been no painter likehim; his portraits as pictures I think are not nearly so fine asSir Joshua's, but as likenesses many of them are quite perfect. Moore's was the last portrait he painted, and Miss Kemble's hislast drawing. 

The King has been very ill; lost forty ounces of blood. Vesey isbetter, but has no chance of going on with his office. Thegeneral opinion seems to be that Herries will succeed him. I donot believe he knows anything of the business of the Board ofTrade. Charles Mills told me yesterday that a proposal was latelymade by Government to the East India Company to reduce theirdividends, and that at the very time this was done Rothschild, who had £40, 000 East India stock, sold it all out, and all hisfriends who held any did the same. The matter was eventuallydropped, but he says nobody doubts that N---- gave notice toRothschild of the proposed measure. The Company are mightilysatisfied with Lord William Bentinck, who has acted veryhandsomely by them in this business by the reduction of the payof the troops. He has written some very trimming letters to LordCombermere, who is coming home, and if he had not been, wouldprobably have been recalled. The Duke, as well as the Company, isfurious with Combermere for the part he has acted in the affair. 

[Page Head: LEOPOLD AND THE THRONE OF GREECE]

Leopold's election to the throne of Greece seems to be settled, and while everybody has been wondering what could induce him toaccept it, it turns out that he has been most anxious for it, andhas moved heaven and earth to obtain it; that the greatestobstacle he has met with has been from the King, who hates him, and cannot bear that he should become a crowned head. He maythink it 'better to reign in hell than serve in heaven, ' but Ishould have thought he had a better prospect here, with £50, 000 ayear and as uncle to the heiress apparent, than to go to a ruinedcountry without cities or inhabitants, and where everything is tobe created, and to sit on such a wretched throne as the nomineeof the Allied Powers, by whom he will be held responsible for hisacts; however, 'il ne faut pas disputer des goûts. '

George Bentinck told me that Lady Canning is not satisfied withStapleton's book, particularly with that part of it in which heattempts to answer Lord Grey's speech, which she thinks poor andspiritless; he is not disposed to be very severe on Lord Grey, being in a manner connected with him. She is persuaded that thatspeech contributed to kill Canning; his feelings were deeplywounded that not one of his friends said a word in reply to it, although some of them knew that the facts in Lord Grey's speechwere incorrect. He vehemently desired to be raised to thepeerage, that he might have an opportunity of answering it, andhe had actually composed and spoken to Mrs. Canning the speechwhich he intended to make in the House of Lords. A great part ofthis she remembers. It seems, too, that to the day of his deaththis was the ruling desire of his mind, and he had declared thatthe following year, when he should have carried the Corn Billthrough the House of Commons, he would go to the House of Lordsand fight the battle there. 

January 17th, 1830 {p. 266}

Charles Mills told me the other day that the Chancellor of theExchequer has been making enquiries as to the fact of Rothschildhaving sold his India stock at the time he did. The two Grants(Charles and Robert) are always together, and both very forgetfuland unpunctual. Somebody said that if you asked Charles to dinewith you at six on Monday, you were very likely to have Robert atseven on Tuesday. 

Edward Villiers (who has been living with Malcolm on board hisship in the Mediterranean) writes word that Malcolm told him thathe had orders, in the event of Diebitsch's marching uponConstantinople, to destroy the Russian fleet. If this is true, itwould have been a great outrage, and a most extraordinary pieceof vigour, after so much long-suffering and endurance. 

The country gentlemen are beginning to arrive, and they all tellthe same story as to the universally prevailing distress and thecertainty of things becoming much worse; of the failure of rentsall over England, and the necessity of some decisive measures orthe prospect of general ruin. Of course they differ as to themeasures, but there appears to be a strong leaning towards thealteration in the currency and one pound notes. It really doesappear, from many representations, that a notion prevails of theDuke of Wellington's indifference to the state of the country, and of his disposition to treat the remonstrances and petitionsof the people, as well as their interests and feelings, withcontempt, which I believe most false and unjust. He has anoverweening opinion of his own all-sufficiency, and that is hisbesetting sin, and the one which, if anything does, will overturnhis Government, for if he would be less dictatorial andopinionated, and would call to his assistance such talents andinformation as the crisis demands, he would be universally votedthe best man alive to be at the head of the Government; but hehas such a set of men under him, and Peel will never get over theCatholic question. [Peel got over it, but not before he hadexpiated his conduct by being turned out. ]

January 20th, 1830 {p. 267}

The Duke and Lord Bathurst dined here yesterday, the former notin good spirits. The battle about Leopold and Greece is stillgoing on between his Majesty and his Ministers. The Duke wastalking about the robbery at Brussels of the Princess of Orange'sjewels, and that there is reason to believe that Pereira, thePrince's friend, had some concern in it; many people suspect thatboth he and the Prince were concerned. The Princess was in thecountry, and only one maid-servant in the house where suchvaluable property was left. The jewels were in a case, and thekey of the case was kept in a cabinet, which was opened, the keytaken, and the large case or chest opened by it. Small footsteps(like those of Pereira, who has very small feet) were traced inthe house or near it, and the day of the robbery the porter wastaken by Pereira's servant to his house and there made drunk. Therobbery was discovered on Friday morning, but no steps were takento inform the police till Sunday night. 

[Page Head: POLITICAL MORALITY]

January 22nd, 1830 {p. 267}

I believe it to be impossible for a man of squeamish anduncompromising virtue to be a successful politician, and itrequires the nicest feeling and soundest judgment to know uponwhat occasions and to what extent it is allowable and expedientto diverge from the straight line. Statesmen of the greatestpower, and with the purest intentions, are perpetually counteractedby prejudices, obstinacy, interest, and ignorance; and in orderto be efficient they must turn, and tack, and temporise, sometimes dissemble. They who are of the _ruat coelum_ sort, whowill carry everything their own way or not at all, must becontent to yield their places to those who are certainly lessscrupulous, and submit to the measures of those who are probablyless wise. But though it is possible that the less rigid andaustere politician may be equally virtuous and disinterested, thewhole context of his life must be such as to endure the mostscrutinising enquiry, which unfortunately it will very seldom do, in order to establish a character for integrity. If Canning hadhad a fair field, he would have done great things, for his loftyand ambitious genius took an immense sweep, and the vigour of hisintellect, his penetration and sagacity, enabled him to formmighty plans and work them out with success; but it is impossibleto believe that he was a high-minded man, that he spurnedeverything that was dishonest, uncandid, and ungentlemanlike; hewas not above trick and intrigue, and this was the fault of hischaracter, which was unequal to his genius and understanding. However, notwithstanding his failings he was the greatest man wehave had for a long time, and if life had been spared to him, andopposition had not been too much for him, he would have raisedour character abroad, and perhaps found remedies for ourdifficulties at home. What a difference between his position andthat of the Duke of Wellington's! Everybody is disposed tosupport the latter and give him unlimited credit for goodintentions. The former was obliged to carry men's approbation bystorm, and the moment he had failed, or been caught tripping, hewould have been lost. 

[Page Head: DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S POSITION]

The Duke has lately given audience to the West Indians who cameto complain of their sufferings and taxation and to implorerelief. Murray and Goulburn were present, neither of whom, it issaid, spoke a word. The Duke cut them very short, and told themthey were not distressed at all, and that nothing would be donefor them. He is like the philosopher in Molière's play, who says, 'Il ne faut pas dire que vous avez reçu des coups de bâton, maisqu'il vous semble que vous en avez reçus. '

Lawrence was buried yesterday; a magnificent funeral, which willhave cost, they say, £2, 000. The pall was borne by Clanwilliam, Aberdeen, Sir G. Murray, Croker, Agar Ellis, and three more--Iforget who. There were thirty-two mourning-coaches and eightyprivate carriages. The ceremony in the church lasted two hours. Pretty well for a man who died in very embarrassed circumstances. The favourites for the chair of the Academy are Shee and Wilkie, painters, and Westmacott and Chantrey, sculptors. 

We were talking of Clanwilliam, who Agar said was the quickestman he had ever known; Luttrell said he and Rogers were 'the_quick_ and the _dead_. ' Looking over the 'Report of the Woodsand Forests and the Cost of the Palaces, ' somebody said 'thepensive' (meaning the public: see Rejected Addresses) must pay;Luttrell said 'the public was the pensive and the King theexpensive. '

January 26th, 1830 {p. 269}

Yesterday afternoon Tierney died. He sank back in his chair andexpired suddenly, without any previous illness; he had been in anindifferent state of health for some time, but he had resolved tomake one more effort in Parliament and deliver his opinion on thepresent state of affairs. He is a great loss to all his friends;his political life was already closed. 

Shee was elected President of the Royal Academy last night at teno'clock. He had sixteen or eighteen votes; Sir William Beecheysix, who was the nearest to Shee; Wilkie only two. He is anIrishman and a Catholic, a bad painter, a tolerable poet, and aman of learning, but, it is said, florid. 

Had a long conversation with Arbuthnot yesterday, who is weak, but knows everything; his sentiments are the Duke's. They arefurious with the old Tories, especially Lord Lonsdale, and notwell satisfied with Lowther, whom they suspect to be playing asneaking, underhand part. The Duke is determined not to alter hisGovernment, nor to take anybody in to strengthen it. Arbuthnotsaid that the Duke had shown he did not mean to be exclusive whenhe had taken in Scarlett and Calcraft, and that 'his friends'would not have borne any more extensive promotion from thatparty; that of all Ministers he was the one who least dependedupon Parliamentary influence and the assistance of the greatfamilies; and that if Lord Lonsdale and all his members were toleave him to-morrow, he would not care a straw. Still he paysthem, if not court, great deference, and he keeps Lowther, thoughhe suspects him. Arbuthnot said that as soon as the Duke becameMinister he said to him, 'Now, Duke, for God's sake settle thatquestion' (the Catholic), which was as much as to say, 'Now thatyou have got rid of every enemy and every rival, now that you canraise your own reputation, and that you will share the glory withno one, do that which you would never let anybody else do, andfight for the measure you have been opposing all your life. ' Itmay be imagined he would not have said this unless he had beenfully aware of the Duke's sentiments on the subject. This speechwas made to him eight months after Canning came into office, whenthey _all_ went out, _on the Catholic question_. He says it isutterly false that the Duke is unconscious of or indifferent tothe distress, but that it is exaggerated, and the Duke attributesit to temporary and not to permanent causes; that he laboursincessantly on the subject, and his thoughts are constantlyoccupied with devising a remedy for it, which he thinks he cando. He adverted to the difficulties with the King, who is neverto be depended upon, as his father was. He remembers uponsome occasion, when Perceval was Minister, and thought thedifficulties of his situation great, he represented to George III. His sense of them in a letter; Perceval showed him the King'sanswer, which was in these words:--'Do you stand by me as I willstand by you, and while we stand by each other we have nothing tofear. '

I told Arbuthnot it was reported that the Duke had given a veryrough answer to the West Indian deputations, and that if he hadit was unwise, as, though he might not adopt such measures ofrelief as they desired, he could treat them with soft language. He said that, so far from it, Lord Chandos had returned to theDuke the next day, and apologised for their conduct to him, assuring him that he was ashamed and tired of his connexion withthem, and should withdraw from it as soon as possible. This Imentioned at Brookes', but Gordon (a West Indian) said that theyhad all been shocked at the manner in which he had used them, that some of them had declared they would never go to him again;and Spring Rice said that old George Hibbert, who has been theiragent these thirty years, and had attended deputations to everyPrime Minister since Pitt, had told him that he never saw one soill received before. It is customary for every deputation to drawout a minute of their conversation with the Minister, which theysubmit to him to admit its correctness. They did so, but the Dukedestroyed their minute, and sent them back one drawn out byhimself, which, however, they declare was not so correct as thatwhich had been transmitted to him; which I can well believe, butthey had no right to complain of this, on the contrary. 

January 30th, 1830 {p. 271}

Laid up with the gout these last three days. George Bankes hasresigned, and John Wortley is appointed Secretary to the Board ofControl. He was of the Huskisson party, as it is called (thoughit does not deserve the name), and previously to the offer ofthis place being made to him was rather inimical to theGovernment; but the Duke proposed, and he accepted. I doubt hisbeing of much use to them. Lord Ellenborough's letter to Sir JohnMalcolm, which appeared in the 'Times' a few days ago, has made agreat deal of noise, as it well may, for a more flippant andinjudicious performance has seldom been seen. [5]

 [5] [This letter, which excited much attention at this time, will be found in the 'Life of Sir John Malcolm, ' by Mr. (now Sir John) Kaye, vol. Ii. P. 528. It had been written a year before, and by some indiscretion obtained publicity in India. A warm dispute had broken out between Sir John Malcolm, then Governor of Bombay, and the Judges of the Supreme Court there. Lord Ellenborough took Malcolm's part with great eagerness, and said of the Chief Justice, Sir J. P. Grant, that he 'would be like a wild elephant between two tame ones. ' This expression was long remembered as a joke against Lord Ellenborough. ]

[Page Head: THE COMING SESSION]

The greatest curiosity and interest prevail about thetransactions in the ensuing session--whether there will be anyopposition, and from what quarter, how Peel will manage, how thecountry gentlemen will act and what language they will hold, andwhether the Duke will produce any plan for alleviating thedistress. I think there will be a great deal of talking andcomplaining, a great many half-measures suggested, but noopposition, and that the Duke will do nothing, and get throughthe session without much difficulty. There was to have been aCouncil on Thursday to prick the sheriffs, but it was put off onaccount of my gout, and I was not able to attend at the dinner atthe Chancellor's on Wednesday for the same reason. I rememberonce before a Council was put off because I was at Egham for theraces; that was a Council in '27, I think, to admit foreign corn. 

February 1st, 1830 {p. 272}

Stapleton's book on Mr. Canning is not to appear. Douglas wassent to him by Aberdeen to tell him that if anything appeared init which ought not to be published he would be turned out of hisoffice. He wrote to Lady Canning accordingly, who sent him a verykind answer, desiring him by no means to expose himself to anysuch danger, and consenting to the suppression of the work. I amglad of it on all accounts. 

February 3rd, 1830 {p. 272}

Brougham has given up Lord Cleveland's borough, and comes in forKnaresborough, at the Duke of Devonshire's invitation. He isdelighted at the exchange. I see by the 'Gazette' there has beena compromise with the King about the Catholic sheriffs; only one(Petre for Yorkshire) is chosen, the others, though first on thelist and no excuses, passed over: they were Townley forLancashire and Sir T. Stanley for Cheshire. It is childish andridiculous if so; but no matter, as the principle is admitted. 

[Page Head: CHARACTER OF LORD BYRON]

I have just finished the first volume of Moore's 'Life of Byron. 'I don't think I like this style of biography, half-way betweenordinary narrative and self-delineation in the shape of letters, diary, &c. Moore's part is agreeably and feelingly written, andin a very different style from the 'Life of Sheridan'--no turgiddiction and brilliant antitheses. It is, however, very amusing;the letters are exceedingly clever, full of wit, humour, andpoint, abounding in illustration, imagination, and information, but not the most agreeable sort of letters. They are joinedtogether by a succession of little essays upon his character. Butas to life, it is no life at all; it merely tells you that thedetails of his life are not tellable, that they would be likethose of Tilly or Casanova, and so indecent, and compromise somany people, that we must be content to look at his life throughan impenetrable veil. Then in the letters and diary the perpetualhiatus, and asterisks, and initials are exceedingly tantalising;but altogether it is very amusing. As to Byron, I have never hadbut one opinion about his poetry, which I think of first-rateexcellence; an enormous heresy, of course, more particularly withthose whose political taste rests upon the same foundation thattheir religious creed does--that of having been taught what toadmire in the one case as they have been enjoined what to believein the other. With regard to his character, I think Moore hassucceeded in proving that he was far from deficient in amiablequalities; he was high-minded, liberal, generous, and good-natured, and, if he does not exaggerate his own feelings, a warm-heartedand sincere friend. But what a wretch he was! how thoroughlymiserable with such splendid talents! how little philosophy!--wretched on account of his lame foot; not even his successes withwomen could reconcile him to a little personal deformity, thoughthis is too hard a word for it; then tormenting himself todeath nobody can tell why or wherefore. There never was soill-regulated a mind, and he had not even the talent of makinghis pleasures subservient to his happiness--not any notion of_enjoyment_; all with him was riot, and debauchery, and rage anddespair. That he very sincerely entertained a bad opinion ofmankind may be easily believed; but so far from his pride andhaughtiness raising him above the influence of the opinion ofthose whom he so despised, he was the veriest slave to it thatever breathed, as he confesses when he says that he was almostmore annoyed at the censure of the meanest than pleased with thepraises of the highest of mankind; and when he deals around hisfierce vituperation or bitter sarcasms, he is only clanking thechains which, with all his pride, and defiance, and contempt, heis unable to throw off. Then he despises pretenders andcharlatans of all sorts, while he is himself a pretender, as allmen are who assume a character which does not belong to them, andaffect to be something which they are all the time conscious theyare not in reality. But to 'assume a virtue if you have it not'is more allowable than to assume a vice which you have not. Towish to appear better or wiser than we really are is excusable initself, and it is only the manner of doing it that may becomeridiculous; but to endeavour to appear worse than we are is aspecies of perverted vanity the most disgusting, and a very badcompliment to the judgment, the morals or the taste of ouracquaintance. Yet, with all his splendid genius, this sort ofvanity certainly distinguished Lord Byron, and that among manyother things proves how deeply a man may be read in human nature, what an insight he may acquire into the springs of action andfeeling, and yet how incapable he may be of making any practicalapplication of the knowledge he has acquired and the result ofwhich he can faithfully delineate. He gives a list of the bookshe had read at eighteen which appears incredible, particularly ashe says that he was always idle, and eight years after Scott sayshe did not appear well read either in poetry or history. Swiftsays 'some men know books as others do Lords--learn their titles, and then boast of their acquaintance with them, ' and so perhapsat eighteen he knew by name the books he mentions; indeed, thelist contains Hooker, Bacon, Locke, Hobbes, Berkeley, &c. Itsounds rather improbable; but his letters contain allusions toevery sort of literature, and certainly indicate considerableinformation. 'Dans le pays des aveugles les borgnes sont rois, 'and Sir Walter Scott might think a man half read who knows allthat is contained in the brains of White's, Brookes', andBoodle's, and the greater part of the two Houses of Parliament. But the more one reads and hears of great men the more reconciledone becomes to one's own mediocrity. 

 Say thou, whose thoughts at nothingness repine, Shall Byron's fame with Byron's fate be thine?

Who would not prefer any obscurity before such splendid misery aswas the lot of that extraordinary man? Even Moore is not happy. One thinks how one should like to be envied, and admired, andapplauded, but after all such men suffer more than we know orthey will confess, and their celebrity is dearly purchased. 

 Se di ciascun l'interno affanno Si leggesse in fronte scritto, Quanti guai ch'invidia fanno Ci farebbe pietà. 

One word more about Byron and I have done. I was much struck bythe coincidence of style between his letters and his journal, andthat appears to me a proof of the reality and nature whichprevailed in both. 

[Page Head: WEAKNESS OF THE GOVERNMENT]

February 5th, 1830 {p. 275}

Parliament met yesterday; there was a brisk debate and anamendment on the Address in each House. The Duke had veryindiscreetly called the distress 'partial' in the Speech, and theconsequence was an amendment moved by Knatchbull declaring it tobe general. The result shows that Government has not theslightest command over the House of Commons, and that they havenothing but casual support to rely upon, and that of course willonly be to be had 'dum se bene gesserint. ' For a long time Holmesand their whippers-in thought that they should be in a minority;but Hume and a large party of Reformers supported them (contraryto their own expectations), so they got a majority of 50 out of250. The division was very extraordinary, Brougham, Sadler, andO'Connell voting together. It is pretty clear, however, that theyare in no danger of being turned out, but that they arewretchedly off for speakers. Huskisson made a shabby speechenough, O'Connell his _début_, and a successful one, heard withprofound attention; his manner good and his arguments attendedand replied to. In the Lords there was nothing particular, butnothing was concerted by any party, for the subject of theamendment in the Commons was not even touched upon in the Lords, which is very remarkable. Lord Chandos has refused the Mint, because they will not give him a seat in the Cabinet, but manypeople think it is because he has been pressed to refuse byhis High Tory friends. Charles Ross is the new Lord of theAdmiralty, [6] and Abercromby Chief Baron of Scotland, whicheverybody is glad of. 

 [6] The appointment has not taken place. 

There is a charlatan of the name of Chobert, who calls himselfthe Fire King, who has been imposing upon the world for a year ormore, exhibiting all sorts of juggleries in hot ovens, swallowingpoisons, hot lead, &c. ; but yesterday he was detected signally, and after a dreadful uproar was obliged to run away to avoid theill-usage of his exasperated audience. He pretended to takeprussic acid, and challenged anybody to produce the poison, whichhe engaged to swallow. At last Mr. Wakley, the proprietor of the'Lancet, ' went there with prussic acid, which Chobert refused totake, and then the whole deception came out, and there is an endof it; but it has made a great deal of noise, taken everybody in, and the fellow has made a great deal of money. It was to havebeen his last performance, but 'tant va la cruche à l'eauqu'enfin. .. . 

February 13th, 1830 {p. 276}

In the House of Lords last night: Lord Holland's motion onGreece; his speech was amusing, but not so good as he generallyis; Aberdeen wretched, the worst speaker I ever heard andincapable of a reply; I had no idea he was so bad. The Duke madea very clever speech, answering Holland and Melbourne, availinghimself with great dexterity of the vulnerable parts of theirspeeches and leaving the rest alone. I was sitting by RobertGrant on the steps of the throne, and said to him, 'That is agood speech of the Duke's, ' and he said, 'He speaks like a greatman;' and so he did; it was bold and manly, and a high tone, notlike a practised debater, but a man with a vigorous mind anddetermined character. 

In the House of Commons Graham spoke for two hours; Burdett saidnot well, but others said the contrary. The Government resolutionmoved as an amendment by Dawson was better than his, so it wasadopted without difficulty. Burdett said Peel made the bestspeech he ever heard him make, and threw over the Tories. Dinedafterwards with Cowper, Durham, and Glengall. Durham said thatLord Grey's politics were the same as his, and that before Easterhe thought an Opposition would be formed, and that the elements, though scattered, exist of a strong one. I doubt it. 

[Page Head: THE ENGLISH OPERA HOUSE BURNT]

February 16th, 1830 {p. 277}

Last night the English Opera House was burnt down--a magnificentfire. I was playing at whist at the 'Travellers' with LordGranville, Lord Auckland, and Ross, when we saw the whole skyilluminated and a volume of fire rising in the air. We thought itwas Covent Garden, and directly set off to the spot. We found theOpera House and several houses in Catherine Street on fire(sixteen houses), and, though it was three in the morning, thestreets filled by an immense multitude. Nothing could be morepicturesque than the scene, for the flames made it as light asday and threw a glare upon the strange and motley figures movingabout. All the gentility of London was there from PrincessEsterhazy's ball and all the clubs; gentlemen in their furcloaks, pumps, and velvet waistcoats mixed with objects like the_sans-culottes_ in the French Revolution--men and womenhalf-dressed, covered with rags and dirt, some with nightcaps orhandkerchiefs round their heads--then the soldiers, the firemen, and the engines, and the new police running and bustling, andclearing the way, and clattering along, and all with that intenseinterest and restless curiosity produced by the event, and whichreceived fresh stimulus at every renewed burst of the flames asthey rose in a shower of sparks like gold dust. Poor Arnold losteverything and was not insured. I trust the paraphernalia of theBeefsteak Club perished with the rest, for the enmity I bear thatsociety for the dinner they gave me last year. 

February 19th, 1830 {p. 277}

In the House of Lords last night to hear Melbourne's motion aboutPortugal--a rather long and very bad debate. Melbourne spoke veryill--case very negligently got up, weakly stated, confused, andindiscreet--in the same sense as his brother's pamphlet, withpart of which (the first part) none of the members of Canning'sAdministration or of Goderich's agree, and consequently it wasanswered by Lansdowne and Goderich. The latter made an excellentspeech, the only good one that was made. Aberdeen was wretched;it is really too bad that a man should be Secretary for ForeignAffairs who cannot speak better. The Duke made no case for theTerceira business, and delivered a very poor speech; but I likehis speaking--it is so much to the point, no nonsense andverbiage about it, and he says strongly and simply what he has tosay. The other night on Greece there was a very brisk skirmishbetween Palmerston and Peel, and the former spoke, they say, remarkably well; the latter, as usual, was in a passion. 

February 21st, 1830 {p. 278}

Dined with the Chancellor; Granvilles, Hollands, Moore, Luttrell, Lord Lansdowne, Auckland, and one or two more; very agreeable. Lord Holland told stories of Lord Thurlow, whom he mimicks, theysay, exactly. When Lord Mansfield died, Thurlow said, 'Ihesitated a long time between Kenyon and Buller. Kenyon was veryintemperate, but Buller was so damned corrupt, and I thought uponthe whole that intemperance was a less fault in a judge thancorruption, not but what there was a damned deal of corruption inKenyon's intemperance. ' Lady Holland and I very friendly; thefirst time I have met her in company since our separation (for wehave never quarrelled). She is mighty anxious to get me back, forno other reason than because I won't go. Everybody is surprisedat Melbourne's failure the other night; some say he was not well, some that he did not like the business. I doubt if he is up toit; he did not speak like a man that has much in him. 

February 23rd, 1830 {p. 278}

Dined with Lord Bathurst and a dull party; but after dinner LadyBathurst began talking about the King, and told me one or twoanecdotes. When the account of Lord Liverpool's seizure reachedthe King at Brighton, Peel was at the Pavilion; the King got intoone of his nervous ways, and sent for him in the middle of thenight, desiring he would not dress; so he went down in hisbedgown and sat by the side of the King's bed. Peel has got anawkward way of thrusting out his hands while he talks, which atlength provoked the King so much that he said, 'Mr. Peel, it isno use going on so (taking him off) and thrusting out your hands, which is no answer to my question. '

Went to Esterhazy's ball; talked to old Rothschild, who was therewith his wife and a dandy little Jew son. He says that Polignac'sGovernment will stand by the King's support and Polignac's owncourage; offered to give me a letter to his brother, who wouldgive me any information I wanted, squeezed my hand, and lookedlike what he is. 

[Page Head: WINDSOR CASTLE]

February 25th, 1830 {p. 279}

Yesterday at Windsor for a Council; the first time I have seenone held in the new rooms of the Castle. They are magnificent andcomfortable, the corridor really delightful--furnished throughits whole length of about 500 feet with the luxury of adrawing-room, and full of fine busts and bronzes, andentertaining pictures, portraits, and curious antiquities. Therewere the Chancellor, the Duke, three Secretaries of State, Bathurst, and Melville. The King very blind--did not know theLord Chancellor, who was standing close to him, and took him forPeel; he would not give up the point, though, for when he foundhis mistake he attributed it to the light, and appealed to LordBathurst, who is stone-blind, and who directly agreed. 

February 26th, 1830 {p. 279}

Intended to go to the House of Lords to hear the debate on LordStanhope's motion (state of the nation), but went to see FannyKemble in 'Mrs. Beverley' instead. She had a very great success--house crowded and plenty of emotion--but she does not touch me, though she did more than in her other parts; however, she is verygood and will be much better. 

The debate in the Lords was not lively, and the Duke, they say, made a most execrable speech. The fact is that he is not up to agreat speech on a great question; he wants the information andpreparation, the discipline of mind, that is necessary, andaccordingly he exposes himself dreadfully, and entirely lost allthe advantages he had gained by the excellent speeches he hadpreviously made on other and more confined questions. He was veryangry with the Duke of Richmond, whose opposition to him isconsidered by the Duke's adherents as a sort of politicalparricide. Old Eldon spoke very well, and Radnor; the rest butmoderate. 

February 27th, 1830 {p. 280}

Dined at Lord Lansdowne's; Moore, Rogers, J. Russell, SpringRice, Charles Kemble, Auckland, and Doherty; very agreeable, butRogers was overpowered by numbers and loud voices. Doherty toldsome good professional stories, and they all agreed that Irishcourts of justice afforded the finest materials for novels andromances. The 'Mertons' and 'Collegians' are both founded onfacts; the stories are in the 'New Monthly Magazine;' they saidthe author had not made the most of the 'Collegians' story. Veryodd nervousness of Moore; he could not tell that story (ofCrampton's), which I begged him to do, and which would not havebeen lugged in neck and shoulders, because everybody was tellingjust such stories; he is delighted with my note of it. CharlesKemble talked of his daughter and her success--said she wastwenty, and that she had once seen Mrs. Siddons in 'LadyRandolph' when she was seven years old. She was so affected in'Mrs. Beverley' that he was obliged to carry her into herdressing-room, where she screamed for five minutes; the lastscream (when she throws herself on his body) was involuntary, notin the part, and she had not intended it, but could not resistthe impulse. She likes Juliet the best of her parts. 

February 28th, 1830 {p. 280}

Dined yesterday with Lord Stanhope; Murray the bookseller (whopublished 'Belisarius'), Wilkie the painter, and Lord Strangford;nobody else of note. Wilkie appears stern, and might pass formad; he said very little. Murray chattered incessantly; talked tome a great deal about Moore, who would have been mightilyprovoked if he had heard him. An odd dinner, not agreeable, though Lord Stanhope is amusing, so strange in his appearance, soultra-Tory and anti-Liberal in his politics, full of informationand a good deal of drollery. Murray told me that Moore is goingto write a 'Life of Petrarch. ' Croker would have writtenLawrence's Life if Campbell [the poet] had not seized the taskbefore anybody else thought of laying hold of it. He hascirculated a command that all persons who have anything tocommunicate will send their letters to _his secretary_, and notto him. 

[Page Head: FOR ITALY]

March 2nd, 1830

To-morrow I set out to Italy, after many years of anxiety to gothere, without violent expectations of pleasure, but not thinkingof disappointment. I care not for leaving London or anything init; there are a few people whose society I regret, but as tofriends or those who care for me, or for whom I care, I leave fewbehind. 

 CHAPTER VIII. 

Calais--Beau Brummell--Paris--The Polignac Ministry--Polignac and Charles X. --The Duke of Orleans--State of Parties--Talleyrand-- Lyons--First Impressions of Mountain Scenery--Mont Cenis-- Turin--Marengo--Genoa--Road to Florence--Pisa--Florence--Lord and Lady Burghersh--Thorwaldsen--Lord Cochrane--Rome-- St. Peter's--Frascati--Grotta Ferrata--Queen Hortense and Louis Napoleon--Coliseum--Death of Lady Northampton--The Moses-- Gardens--Palm Sunday--Sistine Chapel--The Cardinals--Popes-- Cardinal Albani--The Farnese Palace--A Dead Cardinal--Pasquin-- Statue of Pompey--Galleries and Catacombs--Bunsen--The Papal Benediction--Ceremonies of the Holy Week--The Grand Penitentiary--A Confession--Protestant Cemetery--Illumination of St. Peter's--Torlonia--Bunsen on the Forum. 

[Page Head: PARIS IN MARCH 1830]

Paris, March 6th, 1830 {p. 282}

I left London at three o'clock on Wednesday, the 3rd, and arrivedat Dover between twelve and one. Went over in the packet at nineon Thursday, which was not to have sailed till twelve, but did goat nine, principally because they heard that I had got despatches, for I had armed myself with three passports couched in suchterms as were most likely to be useful. A good but rather longpassage--near four hours--and the day magnificent. Landed withdifficulty in boats. Detained at Calais till seven. There I had along conversation with Brummell about his Consulship, and wasmoved by his account of his own distresses to write to the Dukeof Wellington and ask him to do what he could for him. I foundhim in his old lodging, dressing; some pretty pieces of oldfurniture in the room, an entire toilet of silver, and a largegreen macaw perched on the back of a tattered silk chair withfaded gilding; full of gaiety, impudence, and misery. 

Lord Tweeddale came over in the packet, and we dined together. Hewas full of the Duke of Richmond's speech about the Duke ofWellington the other night, which he said had annoyed the Duke ofWellington more than anything that ever happened to him, and thatthe Duke of Richmond was now equally sorry for what he had said. He (Tweeddale) was employed to carry a message from the one Duketo the other, which, however, the Duke of Wellington did not takein good part, nor does it seem that he is at all disposed to layaside his resentment. Tweeddale ranks Richmond's talents veryhighly, and says he was greatly esteemed in the army. 

Left Calais at seven; travelled all night--the roads horrid inmost parts--and arrived at Paris last night at half-past twelve. Found everything prepared--an excellent apartment, _laquais deplace_, and courier. Called on Lady Stewart and old MadameCraufurd, and wandered about the whole day. Paris looking gay andbrilliant in the finest weather I ever saw. I find the realbusiness is not to begin in the Chambers till about the 10th, soI shall not wait for it. Polignac is said to be very stout, butthe general opinion is that he will be in a minority in theChambers; however, as yet I have seen nobody who can give goodinformation about the state of parties. For the first time(between Calais and Paris) I saw some new houses and barnsbuilding near Abbeville and Beauvais, and the cottages nearMonsieur de Clermont-Tonnerre's mansion had a very English look. 

It is Lent, and very little going on here. During the Carnivalthey had a ball for the benefit of the poor, which was attendedby 5, 000 people, and produced 116, 000 francs. Immense sums weregiven in charity, and well appropriated during the severeweather. There are also nuns (_soeurs de charité_), who visit andtend the sick, whose institution is far more practically usefulthan anything of which our Protestant country can boast. I shallonly stay here a very few days. 

[Page Head: IMPENDING CRISIS IN FRANCE]

March 8th, 1830 {p. 283}

It will be difficult to get away from this place if I don't go atonce; the plot thickens, and I am in great danger of dawdling on, Yesterday morning I walked about, visiting, and then went throughthe Tuileries and the Carrousel. The Gardens were full ofwell-dressed and good-looking people, and the day so fine that itwas a glorious sight. The King is, after all, hardly master ofhis own palace, for the people may swarm like bees all around andthrough it, and he is the only man in Paris who cannot go intothe Gardens. Dined with Standish, Brooke Greville, Madame Alfredde Noailles and her daughter, and then went to Madame deFlahault's to see the world and hear politics. After all, nobodyhas an idea how things will turn out, or what are Polignac'sintentions or his resources. Lord Stuart[1] told me that he knewnothing, but that when he saw all the Ministers perfectly calmand satisfied, and heard them constantly say all would be well, although all France and a clear majority in both Chambers seemedto be against them, he could not help thinking they must havesome reason for such confidence, and something in reserve, ofwhich people were not aware. Lady Keith, [2] with whom I had along talk, told me that she did not believe it possible theycould stand, that there was no revolutionary spirit abroad, but astrong determination to provide for the stability of theirinstitutions, a disgust at the obstinacy and pretensions of theKing, and a desire to substitute the Orleans for the reigningbranch, which was becoming very general; that Polignac is whollyignorant of France, and will not listen to the opinions of thosewho could enlighten him. It is supposed that the King isdetermined to push matters to extremity, to try the Chambers, andif his Ministry are beaten to dissolve them and govern _parordonnance du Roi_, then to try and influence the elections andobtain a Chamber more favourable than the present. Somebody toldher the other day of a conversation which Polignac had recentlyhad with the King, in which his Majesty said to him, 'Jules, est-ce que vous m'êtes très-dévoué?' 'Mais oui, Sire; pouvez-vousen douter?' 'Jusqu'à aller sur l'échafaud?' 'Mais oui. Sire, s'ille faut. ' 'Alors tout ira bien. ' It is thought that he has gotinto his head the old saying that if Louis XVI. Had got uponhorseback he could have arrested the progress of the Revolution--a piece of nonsense, fit only for a man 'qui n'a rien oublié nirien appris. ' It is supposed the Address will be carried againstthe Government by about 250 to 130. (It was 221 to 180. ---- hasa _tabatière Warin_ of that day, with the names of the 221 on thelid. ) All the names presented to the King yesterday for thePresidency are obnoxious to him, but he named Royer Collard, whohad twice as many votes as any of the others. It was remarked atthe _séance royale_ that the King dropped his hat, and that theDuke of Orleans picked it up, and they always make a great dealof these trifles. The Duke of Orleans is, however, very well withthe Court, and will not stir, let what will happen, though heprobably feels like Macbeth before the murder of Duncan--

 If chance will have me King, why let chance crown me Without my stir. 

 [1] [Lord Stuart de Rothesay was then British Ambassador in Paris. ]

 [2] [Married to Count de Flahault; in her own right Baroness Keith and Nairn. She died in 1867. ]

March 8th, 1830, at night {p. 285}

Walked about visiting, and heard all the gossip of Paris fromlittle Madame Graham, who also invited me to Pozzo di Borgo's boxat the Opera. I don't mean to record the gossip and scandalunless when I hear something out of the common way and amusing. Dined with Stuart; Tweeddale, Gurwood, Allen, and some heavy_attachés_; no French. He appears to live handsomely. Afterwardsto the Opera to see Taglioni, who did not dance; then to MadameAppony's, to whom I was introduced, and we had plenty of bowingand smirking and civilities about my family. Rather bored at theparty, and am come home quite resolved to be off on Thursday, butam greatly puzzled about my route, for everybody recommends adifferent one. 

March 9th, 1830 {p. 285}

Dined with M. De Flahault; met M. De Talleyrand, Madame de Dino, General Sébastiani, M. Bertin de Vaux, Duc de Broglie, andMontrond. Sébastiani and Bertin de Vaux are Deputies, and allviolent Oppositionists. After dinner M. De Lescure, another man, and the young Duc de Valençay, Madame de Dino's son, came in. They talked politics all the time, and it was curious enough tome. Bertin is the sort of man in appearance that Tierney was, andshrewd like him; he is brother to the editor, and principalmanager himself, of the 'Journal des Débats. ' Sébastiani is slowand pompous. The Duc de Broglie is one of the best men in France. They all agreed that the Government cannot stand. Talleyrand isas much against it as any of them. Sébastiani told me they shouldhave 280 against 130. Talleyrand said that it was quiteimpossible to predict what might be the result of this contest(if the Court pushed matters to extremity) both to France andEurope, and that it was astonishing surrounding nations, andparticularly England, did not see how deeply they were interestedin the event. He said of us, 'Vous avez plus d'argent que decrédit. ' He looks horridly old, but seems vigorous enough andalive to everything. After dinner they all put their headstogether and chattered politics as fast as they could. Madame deFlahault is more violent than her husband, and her house is theresort of all the Liberal party. Went afterwards to the Opera andsaw Maret, the Duc de Bassano, a stupid elderly bourgeois-lookingman, with two very pretty daughters. The battle is to begin inthe Chamber on Saturday or Monday on the Address. Talleyrand toldme that the next three weeks would be the most important of anyperiod since the Restoration. It is in agitation to deprive himof his place of Grand Chambellan. 

[Page Head: MOUNTAIN SCENERY]

Susa, March 15th, 1830, 9 o'clock. {p. 286}

Just arrived at this place at the foot of Mont Cenis. Left Parison the 11th, at twelve o'clock at night. On the last day, Montrond made a dinner for me at a club to see M. Des Chapellesplay at whist. I saw it, but was no wiser; but I conclude heplays very well, for he always wins, is not suspected ofcheating, and excels at all other games. At twelve I got into mycarriage, and (only stopping an hour and a half for twobreakfasts) got to Lyons in forty-eight hours and a half. Journeynot disagreeable, and roads much better than I expected, particularly after Macon, when they became as good as in England;but the country presents the same sterile, uninterestingappearance as that between Calais and Paris--no hedges, no trees, except tall, stupid-looking poplars, and no châteaux or farm-houses. I am at a loss to know why a country should look so ill which Ido not believe is either barren or ill cultivated. Lyons is amagnificent town. It was dark when I arrived, or rathermoonlight, but I could see that the quay we came along was fine, and yesterday morning I walked about for an hour and wasstruck with the grandeur of the place; it is like a great andmagnificent Bath; but I had not time to see much of it, and, withbeautiful weather, I set off at ten o'clock. The mountains (lesÉchelles de Savoie) appear almost directly in the distance, butit was long before I could make out whether they were clouds ormountains. 

After crossing the Pont de Beauvoisin we began to mount theÉchelles, which I did on foot, and I never shall forget the firstimpression made upon me by the mountain scenery. It first burstupon me at a turn of the road--one huge perpendicular rock aboveme, a deep ravine with a torrent rushing down and a mountaincovered with pines and ilexes on the other side, and in frontanother vast rock which was shining in the reflected light of thesetting sun. I never shall forget it. How I turned round andround, afraid to miss a particle of the glorious scene. It wasthe liveliest impression because it was the first. I walkednearly to the other post with the most exquisite pleasure, but itwas dark by the time I got to La Grotta. I went on, however, allnight, very unhappy at the idea of losing a great deal of thisscenery, but consoled by the reflection that there was plentyleft. As soon as it was light I found myself in the middle of themountains (the Lower Alps), and from thence I proceeded acrossthe Mont Cenis. Though not the finest pass, to me, who had neverseen anything like it, it appeared perfectly beautiful, everyturn in the road presenting a new combination of Alpinemagnificence. Nothing is more striking than the patches ofcultivation in the midst of the tremendous rocks and precipices, and in one or two spots there were plots of grass and evergreens, like an English shrubbery, at the foot of enormous mountainscovered with snow. There was not a breath of air in thesevalleys, and the sun was shining in unclouded brightness, so thatthere was all the atmosphere of summer below with all the liveryof winter above. 

 The altitude of some tall crag That is the eagle's birthplace, or some peak Familiar with forgotten years, that shows, Inscribed as with the silence of the thought Upon its bleak and visionary sides, The history of many a winter storm Or obscure record of the path of fire. There the sun himself At the calm close of Summer's longest day Rests his substantial orb; between those heights, And on the top of either pinnacle, More keenly than elsewhere in night's blue vault Sparkle the stars, as of their station proud: Thoughts are not busier in the mind of man Than the mute agents stirring there, --alone Here do I sit and watch. 

In one place, too, I remarked high up on the side of the ruggedand barren mountain two or three cottages, to arrive at whichsteps had been cut in the rock. No sign of vegetation was near, so exactly the description of Goldsmith:--

 Dear is that shed to which their souls conform, And dear that hill that lifts them to the storm;

[Page Head: THE MONT CENIS]

In another place there was a cluster of houses and a church newlybuilt. Not far from Lans-le-Bourg (at the foot of Mont Cenis) isa very strong fort, built by the King of Sardinia, which commandsthe road. It has a fine effect perched upon a rock, andapparently unapproachable. A soldier was pacing the battlement, and his figure gave life to the scene and exhibited the immensityof the surrounding objects, so minute did he appear. AtLans-le-Bourg they put four horses and two mules to my carriage, but I took my courier's horse and set off to ride up the mountainwith a guide who would insist upon going with me, and whoproposed to take me up a much shorter way by the old road, which, however, I declined; he was on foot, and made a short cut up thehill while I rode by the road, which winds in several turns upthe mountain. Fired with mountainous zeal, I had a mind to tryone of these short cuts, and giving my horse to Paolo (my _valetde chambre_) set off with my guide to climb the next interveningascent; but I soon found that I had better have stuck to myhorse, for the immensity of the surrounding objects had deceivedme as to the distance, and the ground was so steep and slipperythat, unprepared as I was for such an attempt, I could not keepmy footing. When about half-way up, I looked ruefully round andsaw steeps above and below covered with ice and snow and looseearth. I could not get back, and did not know how to get on. Ifelt like the man who went up in a balloon, and when a mile inthe air wanted to be let out. My feelings were very like whatJohnson describes at Hawkestone in his tour in Wales. 'He thatmounts the precipices at ---- wonders how he came thither, anddoubts how he shall return; his walk is an adventure and hisdeparture an escape. He has not the tranquillity but the horrorsof solitude--a kind of turbulent pleasure between fright andadmiration. ' My guide, fortunately, was active and strong, andproperly shod so he went first, making steps for me in the snow, into which I put my feet after his, while with one hand I graspedthe tail of his blue frock and with the other seized bits of twigor anything I could lay hold of; and in this ludicrous way, scrambling and clambering, hot and out of breath, to my great joyI at last got to the road, and for the rest of the ascentcontented myself with my post-horse, who had a set of bellsjingling at his head and was a sorry beast enough. I was neverweary, however, of admiring the scenery. The guide told me he hadoften seen Napoleon when he was crossing the mountain, and thathe remembered his being caught in a _tormento_, [3] when his lifewas saved by two young Savoyards, who took him on their backsand carried him to a _rifugio_. [4] He asked them if they weremarried, and, finding they were not, enquired how much was enoughto marry upon in that country, and then gave them the requisitesum, and settled pensions of 600 francs on each of them. One isdead, the other still receives it. As I got near the top of themountain the road, which had hitherto been excellent, becameexecrable and the cold intense. I had left summer below and foundwinter above. I looked in vain for the chamois, hares, wolves, and bears, all of which I was told are found there. At last Iarrived at the summit, and found at the inn a friar, the onlyinhabitant of the Hospice, who, hearing me say I would go there(as my carriage was not yet come), offered to go with me; he wasyoung, fat, rosy, jolly, and dirty, dressed in a black robe witha travelling-cap on his head, appeared quick and intelligent, andspoke French and Italian. He took me over the Hospice, which isnow quite empty, and showed me two very decently furnished roomswhich the Emperor Napoleon used to occupy, and two inferiorapartments which had been appropriated to the Empress MariaLouisa. The N. 's on the _grille_ of the door had been changed forV. E. 's (Victor Emmanuel) and M. T. 's (Maria Theresa), andfrightful pictures of the Sardinian King and Queen have replacedthe Imperial portraits. All sorts of distinguished people haveslept there _en passant_, and do still when compelled to spendthe night on Mont Cenis. He offered to lodge and feed me, but Ideclined. I told him I was glad to see Napoleon's bedroom, as Itook an interest in everything which related to that great man, at which he seemed extremely pleased, and said, 'Ah, monsieur, vous êtes donc comme moi. ' I dined at the inn (a very bad one) onsome trout which they got for me from the Hospice--very finefish, but very ill dressed. The sun was setting by the time I setoff, it was dusk when I had got half-way down the descent, anddark before I had reached the first stage. When half-way down thedescent, the last rays of the sun were still gilding the tops ofthe crags above, and the contrast between that light above andthe darkness below was very fine. From what I saw of it, and fromwhat I guess, straining my eyes into the darkness to catch thedim and indistinct shapes of the mountains, the Italian side isthe finest--the most wild and savage and with more variety. Onthe French side you are always on the breast of the samemountain, but on the Italian side you wind along different rocksalways hanging over a precipice with huge black, snow-toppedcrags frowning from the other ridge. I was quite unhappy not tosee it. Altogether I never shall forget the pleasure of the twodays' journey and the first sight of the Alps, exceeding theexpectations I had formed, and for years I have enjoyed nothingso much. The descent (at the beginning of which, by-the-bye, Iwas very nearly overturned) only ends at this place, where Ifound a tolerable room and a good fire, but the _cameriere_stinking so abominably of garlic that he impregnated the wholeapartment. 

 [3] A _tormento_ (most appropriate name) is a tempest of wind, and sleet, and snow, exceedingly dangerous to those who are met by it. 

 [4] A _rifugio_ is a sort of cabin, of which there are several built at certain distances all the way up the mountain, where travellers may take shelter. 

[Page Head: TURIN]

Turin, March 16th, 1830 {p. 291}

Got here early and meant to sleep, but have changed my mind andam going on. A fine but dull-looking town. Found the twoForsters, who pressed me to stay. Made an ineffectual attempt toget into the Egyptian Museum, said to be the finest in the world. It was collected by Drovetti, the French Consul, and offered tous for £16, 000, which we declined to give, and the King ofSardinia bought it. Forster told me that this country is rich, not ill governed, but plunged in bigotry. There are near 400convents in the King's dominions. It is the dullest town inEurope, and it is because it looks so dull that I am in a hurryto get out of it. This morning was cloudy, and presented freshcombinations of beauty in the mountains when the clouds rolledround their great white peaks, sometimes blending them in themurky vapour, and sometimes exhibiting their sharp outlines abovethe wreath of mist. I did not part from the Alps without castingmany a lingering look behind. 

Genoa, March 18th, 1830 {p. 291}

Got on so quick from Turin that I went to Alessandria that night, and set off at half-past six yesterday morning. Crossed the fieldof battle of Marengo, a boundless plain (now thickly studded withtrees and houses), and saw the spot where Desaix was killed. Thebridge over the Bormida which Melas crossed to attack the Frencharmy is gone, but another has been built near it. The Austriansor Sardinians have taken down the column which was erected to thememory of Desaix on the spot where he fell; they might as wellhave left it, for the place will always be celebrated, thoughthey only did as the French had done before. After the battle ofJena they took down the Column of Rossbach, [5] but that waserected to commemorate the victory, and this the death of thehero. I feel like Johnson--'far far from me and my friends bethat frigid philosophy which can make us pass unmoved over anyscenes which have been consecrated by virtue, by valour, or bywisdom'--and I strained the eyes of my imagination to see all thetumult of this famous battle, in which Bonaparte had beenactually defeated, yet (one can hardly now tell how) was in theend completely victorious. This pillar might have been left, too, as a striking memorial of the rapid vicissitudes of fortune: theremoval of it has been here so quick, and at Rossbach so tardy, areparation of national honour. 

 [5] The battle of Rossbach was gained by Frederick the Great over the French and Austrians in 1757. 

[Page Head: PALACES AND CHURCHES OF GENOA]

The Apennines are nothing after the Alps, but the descent toGenoa is very pretty, and Genoa itself exceeds everything I eversaw in point of beauty and magnificence. 

 How boldly doth it front us, how majestically-- Like a luxurious vineyard: the hill-side Is hung with marble fabrics, line o'er line, Terrace o'er terrace, nearer still and nearer To the blue heavens, here bright and sumptuous palaces With cool and verdant garden interspersed. * * * * * * While over all hangs the rich purple eve. MILMAN's _Fall of Jerusalem_. 

I passed the whole day after I got here in looking into thepalaces and gardens and admiring the prospect on every side. Youare met at every turn by vestiges of the old Republic; in fact, the town has undergone very little alteration for hundreds ofyears, and there is an air of gaiety and bustling activity which, with the graceful costume of the men and women, make it a mostdelightful picture. Genoa appears to be a city of palaces, andalthough many of the largest are now converted to humbler uses, and many fallen to decay, there are ample remains to show theformer grandeur of the princely merchants who were once the lordsof the ocean. Everything bespeaks solidity, durability, andmagnificence. There are stupendous works which were done at theexpense of individuals. In every part of the town are paintingsand frescoes, which, in spite of constant exposure to theatmosphere, have retained much of their brilliancy and freshness. The palaces of Doria are the most interesting; but why the Senategave him that which bears still the inscription denoting itsbeing their gift it is difficult to say, when his own is sosuperior and in a more agreeable situation. The old palace ofAndrew is now let for lodgings, and the Pamfili Doria live atRome. The walls are covered with inscriptions, and I stopped toread two on stone slabs on the spot where the houses ofmalefactors had formerly stood, monuments of the vindictive lawsof the Republic, which not only punished the criminal himself, but consigned his children to infamy and his habitation todestruction; though they stand together they are not of the samedate. There is no temptation to violate the decree by buildingagain on the spot, for they are in a narrow, dirty court, towhich light can scarcely find access. The Ducal Palace nowbelongs to the Governor. It has been modernised, but in the darkalleys adjoining there are remains demonstrative of its formerextent--pictures of the different Doges in fresco on the wallshalf erased, and little bridges extending from the windows (ordoors) of the palace to the public prisons and other adjoiningbuildings. The view from my _albergo_ (_della villa_) is thegayest imaginable, looking over the harbour, which is crowdedwith sailors and boats full of animation. 

[Page Head: PALACES AND CHURCHES OF GENOA]

_Evening. _--Passed the whole day seeing sights. Called on MadameDurazzo, and went with her and her niece, Madame Ferrari, to theKing's palace, formerly a Durazzo palace. Like the others, a finehouse, full of painting and gilding, and with a terrace of blackand white marble commanding a view of the sea. The finest pictureis a Paul Veronese of a Magdalen with our Saviour. The King andQueen sleep together, and on each side of the royal bed there isan assortment of ivory palms, crucifixes, boxes for holy water, and other spiritual guards for their souls. For the comfort oftheir bodies he has had a machine made like a car, which is drawnup by a chain from the bottom to the top of the house; it holdsabout six people, who can be at pleasure elevated to any storey, and at each landing-place there is a contrivance to let them inand out. From thence to the Brignole Palace (called the PalazzoRosso), where I met M. And Madame de Brignole, who were verycivil and ordered a scientific footman to show us the pictures. They are numerous and excellent, but we could only take a cursorylook at them; the best are the Vandykes, particularly a Christand a portrait of one of the Brignoles on horseback, and abeautiful Carlo Dolce, a small bleeding Christ. I saw thechurches--San Stefano, Annunziata, the Duomo, San Ambrosio, SanCyro. There are two splendid pictures in the Ambrosio, a Guidoand a Rubens; the Martyrdom in the San Stefano, by Julio Romanoand Raphael, went to Paris and was brought back in 1814. Thechurches have a profusion of marble, and gilding, and frescoes;the Duomo is of black and white marble, of mixed architecture, and highly ornamented--all stinking to a degree that wasperfectly intolerable, and the same thing whether empty or full;it is the smell of stale incense mixed with garlic and humanodour, horrible combination of poisonous exhalations. I must say, as everybody has before remarked, that there is something highlyedifying in the appearance of devotion which belongs to theCatholic religion; the churches are always open, and, go intothem when you will, you see men and women kneeling and prayingbefore this or that altar, absorbed in their occupation, and whomust have been led there by some devotional feeling. This seemsmore accordant with the spirit and essence of religion than tohave the churches, as ours are, opened like theatres at statedhours and days for the performance of a long service, at the endof which the audience is turned out and the doors are locked tillthe next representation. Then the Catholic religion makes nodistinctions between poverty and wealth--no pews for thearistocracy well warmed and furnished, or seats set apart for therich and well dressed; here the church is open to all, and thebeggar in rags comes and takes his place by the side of the ladyin silks, and both, kneel on the same pavement, for the moment atleast and in that place reduced to the same level. 

I saw the Ducal Palace, where there are two very fine halls, [6]the old Hall of Audience and the Hall of Council, the latter 150by 57 feet; and the Doria Palace, delightfully situated with agarden and fine fountain, and a curious old gallery opening upona marble terrace, richly painted, gilt and carved, though, nowdecayed. Here the Emperor Napoleon lived when he was at Genoa, preferring Andrew Doria's palace to a better lodging: he had somepoetry in his ambition after all. Lastly to the Albergo deiPoveri, [7] a noble institution, built by a Brignole and enrichedby repeated benefactions; like all the edifices of the oldGenoese, vast and of fine proportions. The great staircase andhall are adorned with colossal statues of its benefactors (amongwhom are many Durazzos), and the sums that they gave orbequeathed are commemorated on the pedestals. In the chapel is apiece of sculpture by Michael Angelo, a dead Christ and Virgin(only heads), and an altarpiece by Puget. Branching out from thechapel are two vast chambers, lofty, airy, and light, one for themen, the other for the women. About 800 men and 1, 200 or 1, 300women are supported here. Many of the nobles are said to berich--Ferrari, Brignole, Durazzo, and Pallavicini particularly. Iforgot to mention the chapel and tomb of Andrew Doria; the chapelhe built himself; his body, arrayed in princely robes, lies inthe vault. There is a Latin inscription on the chapel, signifyingthat he stood by the country in the days of her affliction. It isa pretty little chapel full of painting and gilding. In the earlypart of the Revolution the tomb narrowly escaped destruction, butit was saved by the solidity of its materials. I gave the man whoshowed me this tomb a franc, and he kissed my hand in a transportof gratitude. 

 [6] They are left just in the state in which they were in the time of the Republic; the balustrade still surrounds the elevated platform on which the throne of the Doge was placed. 

 [7] The Albergo dei Poveri and the Scoghetti Gardens pleased me more than anything I saw in Genoa. I am sorry I did not see the Sordi e Muti, which is admirably conducted, and where the pupils by all accounts perform wonders. The Albergo is managed by a committee consisting of the principal nobles in the town. The Scoghetti Gardens are delightfully laid out; there is a shrubbery of evergreens with a cascade, and a summer-house paved with tiles--two or three rooms in it, and a hot and cold bath. It is astonishing how they cherish the memory of 'Lord Bentinck. '[7a] I heard of him in various parts of the town, particularly here, as he lived in the house when first he came to Genoa. The Gardens command a fine view of the city, the sea, and the mountains. The saloon in the Serra is only a very splendid room, glittering with glass, and gold, and lapis lazuli; by no means deserves to be called, as it is by Forsyth, the finest saloon in Europe. It is not very large, and not much more gilt than Crockford's drawing-room, but looks cleaner, though it has been done these seventy years or more. 

 [7a] [Lord William Bentinck was Mr. Greville's uncle. ]

[Page Head: SESTRI AND PISA]

Florence, March 21st, 1830 {p. 296}

Arrived here at seven o'clock. Left Genoa on the 19th (havingpreviously gone to see the Scoghetti Gardens and the SerraPalace), and went to Sestri to pass that evening and the nextmorning with William Ponsonby, who was staying there. The roadfrom Genoa to Chiavari is one continual course of magnificentscenery, winding along the side of the mountains and hanging overthe sea, the mountains studded with villages, villas, andcottages which appear like white specks at a distance, till onnear approach they swell into life and activity. The villas aregenerally painted as at Genoa; the orange trees were in fullbloom, and the gardens often slope down to the very margin of thesea. Every turn in the road and each fresh ascent supplies a newprospect, and the parting view of Genoa, with the ocean beforeand the Apennines behind, cannot be imagined by those who havenot seen it. 'Si quod vere natura nobis dedit spectaculum in hactellure vere gratum et philosopho dignum, id semel, mihicontigisse arbitror, cum ex celsissimâ rupe speculabundus ad orammaris mediterranei, hinc aequor caeruleum, illinc tractus Alpinosprospexi, nihil quidem magis dispar aut dissimile nec in suogenere magis egregium et singulare. '[8]

 [8] Burnet's 'Theory of the Earth. '

Chiavari and Sestri are both beautiful, especially the latter, ina little bay with a jutting promontory, a rocky hill covered withevergreens, and shrubs, and heather, and affording grand andvarious prospects of the still blue sea and the white and shiningcoast with the dark mountains behind--

 A sunny bay Where the salt sea innocuously breaks And the sea breeze as innocently breathes On Sestri's leafy shores--a sheltered hold In a soft clime encouraging the soil To a luxuriant beauty. 

[Page Head: FLORENCE]

The mountain road from Chiavari to La Spezzia presents the samescenery as far as Massa and Carrara, which I unfortunately lostby travelling in the night. I crossed the river in the boat bycandle-light, which was picturesque enough, the scanty lightgleaming upon the rough figures who escorted me and plied theenormous poles by which they move the ferry-boat. Got to Pisa tobreakfast (without stopping at Lucca), and passed three hourslooking at the Cathedral, Leaning Tower, Baptistry, and CampoSanto, the last of which alone would take up the whole day to beseen as it ought. The Cathedral is under repair; the pictureshave been covered up or taken down, and the whole church was fullof rubbish and scaffolding; but in this state I could see howfine it is, and admire the columns which Forsyth praises, and theroof and many of the marbles. The Grand Duke has ordered it allto be cleaned, and very little of it to be altered. Onealteration, however, is in very bad taste; he has taken away theold confessionals of carved wood, and substituted others ofmarble, fixed in the wall, which are exactly like modernchimney-pieces, and have the worst effect amidst the surroundingantiquities. The exterior is rather fantastic, but the columnsare beautiful, and John of Bologna's bronze doors admirable. TheCampo Santo is full of ancient tombs, frescoes, modern busts, andmorsels of sculpture of all ages and descriptions. The LeaningTower[9] is 190 feet high, and there are 293 steps to the top ofit, which I climbed up to view the surrounding country, but itwas not clear enough to see the sea and Elba. Here is the finestaqueduct I have seen, which continues to pour water into thetown. Part of the old wall[10] with its towers is still standing. These pugnacious republics, who were always squabbling with eachother and wasting their strength in civil broils, erected verymassive defences. The Pisans are proud of their ancient exploits. The San Stefano or Chiesa dei Cavalieri is full of standardstaken from the Turks, and the man who showed me the Campo Santosaid that a magnificent Grecian vase which is there had beenbrought from Genoa by the Pisans before the foundation of Rome. There are Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, and Grecian remains, whichhave been plundered, or conquered, or purchased by patrioticPisans to enrich their native city. The frescoes are greatlydamaged. I went to look at the celebrated house 'Alla Giornata, 'a white marble palace on the Arno; the chains still hang over thedoor, and there is an inscription above them which looks modern. My _laquais de place_ told me what I suppose is the tradition ofthe place--that the son of the family was taken by the Turks, andthat they had captured a Turk, who was put in chains; that anexchange was agreed upon, and the prisoners on either sidereleased, and that the chains were hung up and the inscriptionadded, signifying that the Turk was at liberty to go again intothe light of day. But it was a lame and improbable story, and Iprefer the mystery to the explanation. 

 [9] There was another leaning edifice, but the Grand Duke had it pulled down; it was thought dangerous. 

 [10] It had been destroyed, but was restored by the Medici or the present family. 

Much as I was charmed with the mountains, I was not sorry, for achange, to get into the rich, broad plain of Tuscany, full ofvineyards and habitations along the banks of the Arno. The voiceand aspect of cheerfulness is refreshing after a course of ruggedand barren grandeur; the road is excellent and the travellingrapid. Yesterday being a holiday, and to-day Sunday, the wholepopulation in their best dresses have been out on the road, andvery good-looking they generally are. There are not more beggarsthan in France, and certainly a far greater appearance ofprosperity throughout the north of Italy than in any part ofFrance I have seen, although there are the same complaints ofdistress and poverty here that are heard both there and inEngland. Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, is in this inn, and the Kingof Bavaria left it this morning. The book of strangers is ratheramusing; the entries are sometimes remarkable or ridiculous. Ifound 'La Duchesse de Saint-Leu et le Prince Louis-Napoléon; Lordand Lady Shrewsbury and family; Miss Caroline Grinwell, of NewYork; the King of Bavaria (not down in the book though);Thorwaldsen'. Tuscany seems to be flourishing and contented; theGovernment is absolute but mild, the Grand Duke enormously rich. 

March 23rd, 1830 {p. 299}

Yesterday morning breakfasted with Lord Normanby, who has got ahouse extending 200 feet in front, court, garden, and stables forabout £280 a year, everything else cheap in proportion, and upon£2, 000 a year a man may live luxuriously. His house wasoriginally fitted up for the Pretender, and C. R. 's are still tobe seen all over the place. Called on Lord Burghersh, [11] who wasat breakfast--the table covered with manuscript music, apianoforte, two fiddles, and a fiddler in the room. He was fullof composition and getting up his opera of 'Phaedra' forto-morrow night. The Embassy is the seat of the Arts, for LadyBurghersh has received the gift of painting as if by inspiration, and she was in a brown robe in the midst of oils, and brushes, and canvas; and a model was in attendance, some part of whoseperson was to be introduced into a fancy piece. She copiespictures in the Gallery, and really extraordinarily well if it betrue that till a year ago she had never had a brush in her hand, and that she is still quite ignorant of drawing. 

 [11] [Lord Burghersh, afterwards Earl of Westmoreland, was then British Minister at Florence. ]

Went into two or three of the churches, then to the Gallery, andsat for half an hour in the Tribune, but could not work myselfinto a proper enthusiasm for the 'Venus, ' whose head is too smalland ankles too thick, but they say the more I see her the more Ishall like her. I prefer the 'Wrestlers, ' and the head of the'Remontleur' is the only good _head_ I have seen, the only onewith expression. 'Niobe' is fine, but I can't bear her children, except one. Then to the Casine on horseback to see the town andthe world: it seems a very enjoyable place. This morning againdropped into some of the churches, after which I have always ahankering, though there is great sameness in them, but I have achildish liking for Catholic pomp. The fine things are lostamidst a heap of rubbish, but there is no lack of marble, andpainting, and gilding in most of them. They are going on with theMedici Chapel, on which millions have been wasted and more isgoing after, for the Grand Duke is gradually finishing the work. The profusion of marble is immense, and very fine and curious ifexamined in detail; the precious stones are hardly seen, and whenthey are, not to be recognised as such. To the Pitti Palace, ofwhich one part is under repair and not visible, but I saw most ofthe best pictures. I like pictures better than statues. It is abeautiful palace, and well furnished for show. Nobody knows whatVandyke was without coming here. To the Gabinetto Fisico, andsaw all the wax-works, the progress of gestation, and therepresentation of the plague, incomparably clever and wellexecuted. I saw nothing disgusting in the wax-works in themuseum, which many people are so squeamish about. 

Before dinner yesterday called upon Thorwaldsen, who was in theinn, to tell him Lord Gower likes his 'Ganymede. ' He was mightypolite, squeezed my hand, and reconducted me to my own door. Atnight went to the Opera and heard David and Grisi in 'Ricciardo eZoraida. ' She is like Pasta in face and figure, but muchhandsomer, though with less expression. She is only eighteen. Hehas lost much of his voice, and embroiders to make up for it, butevery now and then he appears to find it again, and his taste andexpression are exquisite. To-night at a child's ball at LadyWilliamson's, where I was introduced to Lord Cochrane, and had agreat deal of talk with him; told him I thought things wouldexplode at last in England, which he concurred in, and seemed tolike the idea of it, in which we differ, owing probably to thedifference of our positions; he has nothing, and I everything, tolose by such an event. 

[Page Head: FLORENCE]

March 25th, 1830 {p. 301}

Went yesterday morning to Santa Croce to hear a Mass on thecompletion of a monument which has been erected to Dante; verycrowded and the music indifferent. Afterwards to the Gallery andsaw all the cabinets, but we were hurried through them toorapidly. I began to like the 'Venus' better, best of all thestatues. The 'Niobe'[12] cannot have been a group, nor thechildren have belonged to the mother. Rode to Normanby's villa atSesto, five miles from Florence; a large and agreeable house, gardens full of fountains, statues, busts, orange and lemontrees, shrubs and flowers. He pays 600 dollars a year for it, exclusive of the race-ground. In the evening to Burghersh'sopera, which was very well performed; pretty theatre, crowded tosuffocation. All the actors amateurs;[13] chorus composed ofdivers ladies and gentlemen of Florence, principally English. Here all the society of Florence was assembled in nearly equalproportions of Italians, English, and other foreigners. Nothingcan be worse than it is, for there is no foundation of natives, and the rest are generally the refuse of Europe, people who comehere from want of money or want of character. Everybody isreceived without reference to their conduct, past or present, with the exception, perhaps, of Englishwomen who have beendivorced, whose case is too notorious to allow the EnglishMinister's wife to present them at Court. 

 [12] The 'Niobe' is supposed to have been a group upon some temple [Illustration: Schematic of Temple Arch] so, of which the mother was the centre figure; this makes it more probable, but the difficulty to this hypothesis is, that there do not appear to be the necessary gradations in the size or altitude of the other figures; the sons in the 'Laocoon' are certainly little men. 

 [13] Phaedra Miss Williams Soprano. Hippolytus Madame Vigano Contralto. The Girl Madame de Bombelles Soprano. Theseus Goretti Tenor. Attendant Franceschini Bass. 

March 26th, 1830 {p. 302}

Yesterday morning to a Mass at the Annunziata, to which the GrandDuke came in state, with his family and Court. The piazza waslined with guards; seven coaches-and-six with his _guardianobile_ and running footmen; the Mass beautifully performed byhis band, Tacchinardi (father of Madame Persiani, I believe)singing and Manielli directing. Then rode to Lord Cochrane'svilla, where we found them under a matted tent in the garden, going to dinner. He talks of going to Algiers to see the Frenchattack it. He has made £100, 000 by the Greek bonds. It is a pityhe ever got into a scrape; he is such a fine fellow, and soshrewd and good-humoured. To the Certosa, on a hill two milesfrom Florence; very large convent, formerly very rich, and hadnear forty monks, now reduced to seven residents, though thereare a few more who belong to it, but who are absent. It is ingood repair, but looks desolate. There is an old monk, DonFortunatus by name, who understands English and speaks ittolerably, delights in English people and books, received us inhis cell, which consists of two or three little apartments, notuncomfortable and commanding a beautiful view; talked with greatpleasure of his English acquaintance, and showed all their cards, which he treasured up. A very lively, good-humoured old friar. Returned to ride in the Corso, which is a narrow street goingfrom the Duomo to the Annunziata, to drive up and down which isone of the ceremonies of the day (Lady Day), as the people aresupposed to go and pay their respects to the Virgin. In theevening to the Opera and heard David again. 

[Page Head: ROME]

Rome, March 29th, 1830 {p. 303}

Set off yesterday morning at half-past seven from Florence, andarrived here at six this evening in a fine glowing sunset, straining my eyes to catch interesting objects, and trying invain to make out the different hills. The last two days atFlorence I went to the Gallery and Pitti Palace again with theCopleys. Half the rooms were shut up when I was at the Pittibefore, but we now saw them all, and probably the finestcollection of pictures in the world. The Raphaels, Rubens, Andreadel Sartos, and Salvators I liked the best. On Saturday eveningwent to Court and was presented to the Grand Duke, who isvulgar-looking and has bad manners; but the whole thing is ratherhandsome. Stopped at Siena to see the cathedral; very fine, the ancient fount beautiful. The mutilated Graces I am notconnoisseur enough to appreciate, but the illuminated Missals ofthe thirteenth century I thought admirable, both for thecolouring and the drawing, and as exquisitely finished as anyminiature. The entrance to Rome through the Porta del Popoloappeared very fine, but I was disappointed in the first distantview of the city from the hill above Viterbo. I passed Radicofaniin the dark, and saw little to admire in the Lake of Bolsena orthe surrounding country. The women throughout Italy appeared veryhandsome, one quite beautiful at Siena. 

March 30th, 1830 {p. 303}

This morning I awoke very early, and could not rest till I hadseen St. Peter's; so set off in a hackney coach, drove by thePiazza della Colonna and the Castle of St. Angelo (which burstupon me unexpectedly as I turned on the bridge), and got outas soon as St. Peter's was in sight. My first feeling wasdisappointment, but as I advanced towards the obelisk, with thefountains on each side, and found myself in that ocean of spacewith all the grand objects around, delight and admirationsucceeded. As I walked along the piazza and then entered thechurch, I felt that sort of breathless bewilderment which wasproduced in some degree by the first sight of the Alps. Much as Iexpected I was not disappointed. St. Peter's sets criticism atdefiance; nor can I conceive how anybody can do anything butadmire and wonder there, till time and familiarity with itsglories shall have subjected the imagination to the judgment. Ithen came home and went with Morier to take a cursory view of thecity and blunt the edge of curiosity. In about five hours Igalloped over the Forum, Coliseum, Pantheon, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, the Vatican, and several arches andobelisks. I cannot tell which produced the greatest impression, St. Peter's or the Coliseum; but if I might only have seen one itshould be the Coliseum, for there can be nothing of the same kindbesides. [14]

 [14] Of the same kind there is, at Pompeii, but not near so fine; more perfect as a specimen, far less beautiful as an object. And the amphitheatre at Verona, but that is very inferior. 

[Page Head: SIGHTS OF ROME]

They only who have seen Rome can have an idea of the grandeur ofit and of the wonders it contains, the treasures of art and therecords of antiquity. Of course I had the same general idea ofthere being much to see that others have, but was far from beingprepared for the reality, which exceeds my most sanguineexpectations. The Vatican alone would require years to beexamined as it deserves. It is remarkable, however, how thepleasure of the imagination arising from antiquities depends upontheir accidents. The busts, statues, columns, tombs, andfragments of all sorts are heaped together in such profusionat the Vatican that the eyes ache at them, the senses arebewildered, and we regard them (with some exceptions) almostexclusively as objects of art, and do not feel the interestwhich, separately, they might inspire by their connection withremote ages, whereas there is scarcely one of those, if it werenow to be discovered, that would not excite the greatestcuriosity, and be, in the midst of the ruins to which it belongs, an object of far greater interest than a finer production whichhad taken its splendid but frigid position in this collection. Wewent to the Sistine Chapel, and saw Michael Angelo's frescoes, which Sir Joshua Reynolds says are the finest paintings in theworld, and which the unlearned call great rude daubs. I do notpretend to the capacity of appreciating their merits, but wasvery much struck with the ease, and grace, and majesty of some ofthe figures; it was, however, too dark to see the 'LastJudgment. ' I ended by St. Peter's again, where there were manydevout Catholics praying round the illuminated tomb of theApostle, and many foolish English poking into it to stare and askquestions, the answers to which they did not understand. I havebut one fault to find, and that is with the Glory, a miserabletransparency in the great window opposite the entrance, throwinga yellow light upon the Dove, which has the most paltry effect, and is utterly unworthy of the grandeur of such a place. 

April 1st, 1830 {p. 305}

Yesterday morning at nine o'clock went with Edward Cheney andGeorge Hamilton to Frascati to dine with Henry Fox, who has got avilla there. As soon as we arrived Cheney and I walked over toGrotta Ferrata to see Domenichino's frescoes. The convent isabout a mile and a half off, large, formerly rich, full of monks, and a fortress; also the scene of various miracles performed bySt. Nilo, the founder and patron saint; now tenanted by a fewbeggarly friars, and part of it let to Prince Gagarin, theRussian Minister, as a villa. Domenichino sought and found anasylum there in consequence of some crime he had committed ordebt he had incurred; he stayed there two years, and in returnfor the hospitality of the monks adorned their chapel with (somethink) the finest frescoes in the world. They are splendidpictures, and all painted by his own hand. 

At dinner we had Hortense, the ex-Queen of Holland, her son, Prince Louis Napoleon, her lady in waiting, Lady Sandwich and herdaughter, Cheney, Hamilton, Lord Lovaine, and Fordwich. Wedined in the garden, but there was too much wind for a _fêtechampêtre_. Hortense is not near so ugly as I expected, veryunaffected and gay, and gives herself no royal airs. The onlydifference between her and anybody else was that, after dinner, when she rose from table, her own servant presented her with afinger-glass and water, which nobody else had. She is calledMadame. 

We returned by moonlight, and though I did not go into theColiseum, because the moon was not full enough, it looked fine, and the light shining through the lower arches had a beautifuleffect. This morning went a long round of sights--Caesar'sPalace, of which there are no remains but fragments of walls; itreally does 'grovel on earth in indistinct decay. ' Caracalla'sBaths, which are stupendous; the _custode_ showed us a room inwhich were heaped up bits of marble of all sorts and sizes, fragments of columns and friezes; and he told us that they neverexcavated without finding something. And Titus's Baths, lessmagnificent but equally curious, because they contain the remainsof the Golden House of Nero, on which Titus built his Thermae. The ruins are, in fact, part of the Golden House, for the Thermaehave been altogether destroyed. Then to the Capitol, Forum, Temple of Vesta, Fortuna Virilis, and other places with Morier. The Capitol contains an interesting collection of busts andstatues of all the Emperors, most famous characters of ancientRome and Greece together, with various magnificent objects ofart. By dint of repeatedly seeing their effigies, one becomesacquainted with the faces of these worthies. These tastes growupon one strangely at Rome, and there is a sort of elevationarising from this silent intercourse with the 'great of old. '

 Proud names, who once the reins of empire held, In arms who triumphed, or in arts excell'd, Chiefs graced with scars, and prodigal of blood, Stern patriots who for sacred freedom stood, Just men by whom impartial laws were given, And saints who taught, and led the way to heaven. TICKELL. 

There has been a wrangle about the Borghese Gardens which thePrince ordered to be shut up; the Government remonstrated, and acorrespondence ensued which ended in their being reopened to thepublic, whom he has no right to exclude. Paul V. Gave theBorghese Gardens to his nephew (Aldobrandini) with a conditionthat they should always be open to the public, which they havebeen from then till now. They were a part of the Cenci property, which was immense, and confiscated by an enormous piece ofinjustice. 

[Page Head: SIGHTS OF ROME]

April 3rd, 1830 {p. 307}

Went on Thursday to Lady Mary Deerhurst's and the DuchessTorlonia's, where all the English in Rome (or rather all the mostvulgar) were assembled. Yesterday morning to the Colonna Palace, Museum of the Capitol, Baths of Diocletian, now Church of SantaMaria degli Angeli, which are very remarkable because built onthe baths, of which it has preserved the form; San Pietro inVincoli, San Bernardo, all built on the site and amidst the ruinsof Titus's and Vespasian's Baths; in various parts the oldpavement is preserved, which shows how magnificent they must havebeen, for it is all of giallo, verd antique, porphyry, &c. To thegarden of the Maronite Convent to see the Coliseum, whence thereis the finest view of it in Rome. Then to the Coliseum, andwalked all over the ruins while a parcel of friars with coveredfaces were chanting and praying at each of the altars insuccession round the circle below (called the Via Crucis). 

I called yesterday morning on M. De la Ferronays, the FrenchAmbassador, who was very civil and obliging. Dined in the eveningwith Lord Haddington, Lovaine, Morier, Prince Gagarin the RussianMinister, Cheney, and M. Dedel. After dinner George Hamilton camein and said that Lady Northampton had died suddenly at fiveo'clock. I never saw her, but they say she was a very good sortof woman, and remarkably clever, which good sort of women seldomare. She had written a poem full of genius and imagination. LordNorthampton was absent at a _scavo_ he has forty miles off. 

There has been no rain here for two months, and the clouds ofdust are insupportable; as it is the town in Europe best suppliedwith water (there are three aqueducts; the ancients had sixteen)so it is the worst watered. The excavations which are going on(though languidly) are always producing something. Two busts, said to be fine, were found the day before yesterday at theBorghese Villa at Frascati. 

I saw yesterday at San Pietro in Vincoli Michael Angelo's famousMoses. It may be very fine, but to my eye is merely a colossalstatue; the two horns are meant to represent rays of light; buthow can rays of light be represented in marble, any more than thebreath? It is impossible to make marble imitate that which isimpalpable. The beard is ropy and unnatural; it is, however, animposing sort of figure. But I am more sensible to painting thanto sculpture. I delight in almost everything of Domenichino's, who is only inferior (if inferior) to Raphael. As to MichaelAngelo, he speaks a language the unlearned do not understand; hismerit, acknowledged to be transcendent as it is by all artists, cannot be questioned; but he must serve as a model to form futureexcellence, and not be expected to produce present delight, except to those who, by long study, have learnt to comprehend andappreciate him. 

_Evening. _--This morning to the tomb of the Scipios, Catacombs, Cecilia Metella (from which I wonder they don't take thebattlements), the Circus of Maxentius, Temple of Bacchus, theFountain of Egeria, San Stefano Rotondo, Temple of Pallas, Archesof Drusus and Dollabella, and the Borghese Villa and Gardens. Theruins of the Gaetani Castle are rather picturesque, but theyspoil the tomb, which would be far finer without its turrets. TheCircus is as curious as anything I have seen, for it looks like afresh ruin. Old Torlonia furbished it up at his own expense, and brought to light the inscription which proved it to beMaxentius's instead of Caracalla's Circus. The remains are soperfect that it is easy to trace the whole arrangement of theancient games. Forsyth says very truly that the Fountain ofEgeria is a mere trough; but everybody praises the water, whichis delicious, and it falls with a murmur which invites toidleness and contemplation. This fountain has been beautifullysung, but it is a miserable ruin, ill deserving of such strains. 

 In vallum Egeriae descendimus et speluncas Dissimiles veris--quanto praestantius esset Numen aquae, viridi si margine clauderet undas Herba, nec ingenuum violarent marmora tophum. JUVENAL. 

A little wood of firs, and pines, and ilexes about thirty orforty years old is pointed out as the grove in which Numa used tomeet the nymph. In all the views on one side Soracte is astriking object, as it

 From out the plain Heaves like a long-swept wave about to break And on the curl hangs pausing. 

I like this side of Rome, where the aqueducts stride over theCampagna, and the ruins of the mighty Claudian tower over thepigmy arches of the Pope, like the genius of ancient over that ofmodern Rome. The Borghese is the _beau idéal_ of a villa; lofty, spacious apartments, adorned with statues, busts, and marbles, painting and gilding, and magnificent gardens; but deserted byits owner, who has only been there once in the last thirty years, and untenable in the summer from malaria, which is veryunaccountable, for it is close to Rome, high, and full of trees;but nobody knows anything about the malaria. The Gardens are thefashionable lounge, but after June nobody can walk there. Thoughthe Prince never comes here he has just bought a large piece ofground between the Porta del Popolo and the Gardens, and ismaking a handsome entrance, has already built gates and some uglyEgyptian imitations, and is making a waterfall. I dined with LadyWilliam Russell, and set off to go to Queen Hortense in theevening, but found so few carriages in the court that we wouldnot go in. 

[Page Head: THE SISTINE CHAPEL]

April 4th, 1830 {p. 309}

To the Sistine Chapel for the ceremonies of Palm Sunday; we gotinto the body of the chapel, not without difficulty; but we sawM. De la Ferronays in his box, and he let us in (Morier and me). It was only on a third attempt I could get there, for twice thePapal halberdiers thrust me back, and I find since it is luckythey did not do worse; for upon some occasion one of them knockeda cardinal's eye out, and when he found who he was, begged hispardon, and said he had taken him for a bishop. Here I had a fineopportunity of seeing the frescoes, but they are coveredwith dirt, the 'Last Judgment' neither distinguishable norintelligible to me. The figures on the ceiling and walls are verygrand even to my ignorance. The music (all vocal) beautiful, theservice harmoniously chanted, and the responsive bursts of thechorus sublime. The cardinals appeared a wretched set of oldtwaddlers, all but about three in extreme decrepitude--Odescalchi, who is young and a good preacher, Gregorio, Capellari[afterwards Pope Gregory XVI. ]. On seeing them, and knowing thatthe sovereign is elected by and from them, nobody can wonder thatthe country is so miserably governed. These old creatures, on thedemise of a Pope, are as full of ambition and intrigue as in thehigh and palmy days of the Papal power. Rome and its territoryare certainly worth possessing, though the Pontifical authorityis so shorn of its beams; but the fact is that the man who iselected does not always govern the country, [15] and he iscondemned to a life of privation and seclusion. An able orinfluential cardinal is seldom elected. The parties in theConclave usually end by a compromise, and agree to elect somecardinal without weight or influence, and there are not now anySixtus the Fifths to make such an arrangement hazardous. Austria, Spain, and France have all vetos, and Portugal claims andexercises one when she can. To this degradation Rome is nowobliged to submit. The most influential of the cardinals isAlbani. [16] At the last election the Papal crown was offered toCardinal Caprara, but Albani stipulated that he should make himSecretary of State; Caprara refused to promise, and Albaniprocured the election of the present Pope (who did not desire orexpect the elevation), became Secretary of State (being eighty), and governs the country. He is rich and stingy. The great Powersstill watch the proceedings of the Conclave with jealousy; andthough it is difficult to conceive how the Pope can assist anyone of them to the detriment of another, an Ambassador will puthis veto upon any cardinal whom he thinks unfavourable to hisnation; this produces all sorts of trickery, for when theConclave want to elect a man who is obnoxious to Austria, forexample, they choose another whom they think is equally so (butwhom they do not really wish to elect), that the veto may beexpended upon him, for each Government has one veto only. Thelast veto absolutely put was on Cardinal ----, who was elected onthe death of Pius VII. He had behaved very rudely to the EmpressMaria Louisa when she took refuge in the north of Italy after thedownfall of Napoleon, thinking it was a good moment to bully theabdicated Emperor's wife. She complained to her father, whopromised her the Cardinal never should be Pope. He was a youngand ambitious man, and the veto killed him with vexation anddisappointment. 

 [15] This, from what I have heard since, was not true of the last Pope, Leo XII. , who was an odious, tyrannical bigot, but a man of activity, talent, and strength of mind, a good man of business, and his own Minister. He was detested here, and there are many stories of his violent exertions of authority. He was a sort of bastard Sixtus V. , but at an immense distance from that great man, 'following him of old, with steps unequal. ' He used, however, to interfere with the private transactions of society, and banish and imprison people, even of high rank, for immorality. 

 [16] Albani holds the Austrian veto, and is supported by her authority. But I have heard that since Clement XI. , who was an Albani, there has always been a powerful Albani faction in the Conclave. This cardinal is enormously rich and the head of his house. The Duke of Modena is his nephew, and it is generally thought will be his heir. 

Went and walked about St. Peter's, and was surprised to find howvery little longer it is than St. Paul's. To the Farnese Palace, built by Paul III. Out of the ruins of the Coliseum, which now, with all the Farnese property, belongs to the King of Naples, andis consequently going to decay. It got into his hands by themarriage of a King of Naples with the last heiress of the houseof Farnese. The Neapolitan property here consists of the Farneseand Farnesina Palaces, the Orti Farnesiani, and the Villa Madama, all in a wretched state; and the Orti, in which there areprobably great remains, they will not allow to be excavated. Manyof the fine things are gone to Naples, but a few remain, most ofwhich came out of the Thermae of Caracalla, and originally fromthe Villa of Adrian. These two, principally the one through theother, have been the great mines from which the existingtreasures of art were drawn. The frescoes in this palace arebeautiful--a gallery by Annibal and Agostino Caracci, with a fewpictures by Domenichino, Guido, and Lanfranco. Annibal Caracci'sare as fine as any I have seen; also a little cabinet picturepainted entirely by Annibal, which is exquisite. 

[Page Head: A DEAD CARDINAL]

As we were going to this palace we drove by the Cancellaria(which was likewise built out of the Coliseum), and heard byaccident that a dead cardinal (Somaglia) was lying in statethere. Somaglia was Secretary of State in Leo's time. Having seenall the living cardinals, we thought we might as well completeour view of the Sacred College with the dead one, and went up. After a great deal of knocking we were admitted to a private viewhalf an hour before the public was let in. He had been embalmed, and lay on a bed under a canopy on an inclined plane, fulldressed in cardinal's robes, new shoes on, his face and handsuncovered, the former looking very fresh (I believe he wasrouged), his fingers black, but on one of them was an emeraldring, candles burning before the bed, and the window curtainsdrawn. He was 87 years old, but did not look so much, and had ahealthier appearance in death than half the old walking mummieswe had seen with palms in their hands in the morning. 

Took a look at Pasquin, who had nothing but advertisements pastedupon him. I had seen Marphorius in the Capitol; there has longbeen an end to the witty dialogues of the days of Sixtus V. , soquaintly told by Leti; they are so little 'birds of a feather'(for Pasquin is a mutilated fragment, Marphorius a colossalstatue of the ocean) that, residing as they did at differentparts of the town, it is difficult to understand how they evercame to converse with each other at all. I remember one of thebest of his stories. Sixtus V. Made his sister a princess, andshe had been a washerwoman. The next day Pasquin appeared with adirty shirt on. Marphorius asks him 'why he wears such foullinen;' and he answers 'that his washerwoman has been made aprincess, and he can't get it washed. '

To the Farnesina: Raphael's frescoes, the famous Galatea, and thegreat head which Michael Angelo painted on the wall, as it issaid as a hint to Raphael that he was too minute. There it isjust as he left it. Here Raphael painted the Transfiguration, andhere the Fornarina was shut up with him that he might not runaway from his work. It might be thought that to shut up hismistress with him was not the way to keep him to his work. Bethat as it may, the plan was a good one which produced thesefrescoes and the Transfiguration. 

[Page Head: POMPEY'S STATUE]

I very nearly forgot to mention the Palazzo Spada, where we wentto see the famous statue of Pompey, which was found on the spotwhere the Senate House formerly stood, and which is (as certainlyas these things can be certain) the identical statue at the footof which Caesar fell. 

 Muffling his face within his robe Ev'n at the base of Pompey's statue, Which all the while ran blood, great Caesar fell. 

People doubt this statue, because it is not like his busts. Thereis certainly no resemblance to the bust I have seen, whichrepresents Pompey as a fat, vulgar-looking man with a greatdouble chin. It is impossible for the coldest imagination to lookat this statue without interest, for it calls up a host ofrecollections and associations, standing before you unchangedfrom the hour when Caesar folded his robe round him and'consented to death' at its base. Those who cannot feel this hadbetter not come to Rome. Cardinal Spada was Secretary of Statewhen this statue was found, and Julius III. (Giocchi del Monti, 1550) made him a present of it. 

The Temple of Bacchus is one of the most remarkable objects inRome; it is not in the least altered, merely turned into aChristian church, and some saints, &c. , painted on the walls. Themosaic ceiling and the pavement are just the same as when it wasdevoted to the worship of the jolly god. The mosaics arebeautiful, and perfect models of that sort of ceiling. Thepavement is covered with names and other scribblings cut out uponit, all ancient Roman. Not a column has been removed ormutilated. The fact is, Rome possesses several complete specimensof places of heathen worship; this temple, the Pantheon, and SanStefano Rotondo are perfect in the inside, the Pantheon withinand without, Vesta and Fortuna Virilis perfect on the outside. 

[Page Head: A CAPUCHIN CHARNEL-HOUSE]

In the Rospigliosi Palace is the famous Aurora of Guido. It is inexcellent preservation, and three artists were copying it inoils. One copy was just finished, and admirably done, for whichthe painter asked forty louis. I begin to like frescoes betterthan oils; there is such a life and brilliancy about them. At theQuirinal, which was fitted up for the King of Rome and inhabitedby the Emperor of Austria, we saw everything but the Pope'sapartments. It is a delightful house, and commands a charmingview of Rome. The Pope always goes there the last day of the HolyWeek, and stays there all the summer. Nothing can be moremelancholy than his life as described by the _custode_; he getsup very early, lives entirely alone and with the greatestsimplicity. In short, it shows what a strange thing ambition is, which will sacrifice the substantial pleasures of life for themiserable shadow of grandeur. Coming home we stopped by accidentat the Capuchins, and looked in to see Guido's St. Michael, withwhich I was disappointed till I looked at it from a distance. Wethen went to their catacombs, the most curious place I ever saw. There are a series of chapels in the cloisters, or rathercompartments of one chapel, entirely fitted up with human bonesarranged symmetrically and with all sorts of devices. They arelaid out in niches, and each niche is occupied by the skeleton ofa friar in the robes of his order; a label is attached to it withthe name of the skeleton and the date of his death. Beneath aremounds of earth, each tenanted by a dead friar with similarlabels. When a friar dies, the oldest buried friar, or rather hisskeleton, is taken up and promoted to a niche, and the newlydefunct takes possession of his grave; and so they go on insuccession. I was so struck by this strange sight that, when Icame home at night, I ventured on the following description ofit:--

 _THE CATACOMBS IN THE CAPUCHIN CONVENT. _

 In yonder chapel's melancholy shade, Through which no wandering rays of daylight peep, In strange and awful cemetery laid, The ancient Fathers of the convent sleep. 

 No storied marble with monastic pride Records the actions of their tranquil life, Or tells how, fighting for their faith, they died Unconquer'd martyrs of religious strife. 

 They are not laid in decent shroud and pall, To wait, commingling with their kindred earth, Th' Archangel's trumpet, whose dread blast shall call The whole creation to a second birth. 

 But midst the mouldering relics of the dead In shapes fantastic, which the brethren rear, Profaned by heretic's unhallowed tread, The monkish skeletons erect appear. 

 The cowl is drawn each ghastly skull around, Each fleshless form's arrayed in sable vest, About their hollow loins the cord is bound, Like living Fathers of the Order drest. 

 And as the monk around this scene of gloom The flick'ring lustre of his taper throws, He says, 'Such, stranger, is my destined tomb; Here, and with these, shall be my last repose. '

At night I went with a party of English to see the Coliseum, butthe moon was as English as the party, and gave a faint and feeblelight. Still, with this dim moon it was inconceivably grand. Theexquisite symmetry of the building appears better, and its vastdimensions are more developed by night. I long to see it with anItalian sky and full moon; but not with a parcel of chatteringgirls, who only 'flout the ruins grey. '

[Page Head: THE HOLY WEEK AT ROME]

April 9th, 1830 {p. 315}

On Wednesday called on Bunsen, the Prussian Minister, who livesat the top of the Tarpeian Rock, in a house commanding one of thebest views of Rome. He has devoted himself to the study of Romanhistory and antiquities, and has the whole subject at hisfingers' ends. He is really luminous, and his conversationequally amusing and instructive. He is about to publish a bookabout ancient and modern Rome, which, from what I hear, will betoo minute and prolix. I then went to look at the Tarpeian Rock, but the accumulation of earth has diminished its height--there isthe Rock, but in a very obscure hole. It was probably twice ashigh as it is now. I think it is now about forty feet. Bunsensays that though the antiquaries pretend to point out the courseof the ancient triumphal way, he does not think it can ever beascertained. The only remains (only bits of foundations) of thetemple of the Capitoline Jupiter, to which the conquerorsascended, are in the garden under his windows. He thinks thepopulation of ancient Rome may be taken at two millions at itsmost flourishing period. It is curious that there are hardly anyhouses on the hills on which ancient Rome was built, and thatthere were none formerly where modern Rome stands--no privatehouses, only public buildings and temples. 

To the Mamertine Prisons, probably not a stone of which has beenchanged from the time that Jugurtha was starved in them. Thetradition about St. Peter and the well of course is not to bebelieved; but it is very odd there should be a well there whenthere are so few in Rome. To the Sistine Chapel with M. De laFerronays, and very much disappointed with the music, which wasnot so good as on Sunday; nor was the ceremony accompanying theMiserere at all imposing. Yesterday morning to the Sistine again;prodigious crowd, music moderate. As soon as it was over we setoff to see the benediction; and, after fighting, jostling, andsqueezing through an enormous crowd, we reached the _loggia_ overone side of the colonnade. The Piazza of St. Peter's is somagnificent that the sight was of necessity fine, but not near somuch so as I had fancied. The people below were not numerous orfull of reverence. Till the Pope appears the bands play and thebells ring, when suddenly there is a profound silence; thefeathers are seen waving in the balcony, and he is borne in onhis throne; he rises, stretches out his hands, blesses thepeople--URBI ET ORBI--and is borne out again. A couple ofindulgences were tossed out, for which there is a scramble, andso it ends. Off we scampered, and, by dint of tremendousexertions, reached the hall in which the feet of the pilgrims arewashed. The Pope could not attend, so the Cardinal Deaconofficiated. No ceremony can be less imposing, but none moreclean. Thirteen men are ranged on a bench--the thirteenthrepresents the angel who once joined the party--dressed in newwhite caps, gowns, and shoes; each holds out his foot insuccession; an attendant pours a few drops of water on it from agolden jug which another receives in a golden basin; the cardinalwipes it with a towel, kisses the foot, and then gives the towel, a nosegay, and a piece of money to the pilgrim--the whole thingtakes up about five minutes--certain prayers are said, and it isover. Then off we scampered again through the long galleries ofthe Vatican to another hall where the pilgrims dine. Thearrangements for the accommodation of the Ambassadors andstrangers were so bad that all these passages were successivescenes of uproar, scrambling, screaming, confusion, and danger, and, considering that the ceremonies were all religious, reallydisgraceful. We got with infinite difficulty to another box, raised aloft in the hall, and saw a long table at which thethirteen pilgrims seated themselves; a cardinal in the cornerread some prayers, which nobody listened to, and another handedthe dishes to the pilgrims, who looked neither to the right northe left, but applied themselves with becoming gravity to theenjoyment of a very substantial dinner. The whole hall was filledwith people, all with their hats on, chattering and jostling, andmore like a ring of blacklegs and blackguards at Tattersall'sthan respectable company at a religious ceremony in the palace ofthe Pope. There remained the cardinals' dinner, but I had hadmore than enough, and came away hot, jaded, and disgusted withthe whole affair. 

[Page Head: THE GRAND PENITENTIARY]

In the evening I went to St. Peter's, when I was amplyrecompensed for the disappointment and bore of the morning. Thechurch was crowded; there was a Miserere in the chapel, which wasdivine, far more beautiful than anything I have heard in theSistine, and it was the more effective because at the close itreally was night. The lamps were extinguished at the shrine ofthe Apostle, but one altar--the altar of the Holy Sepulchre--wasbrilliantly illuminated. Presently the Grand Penitentiary, Cardinal Gregorio, with his train entered, went and paid hisdevotions at this shrine, and then seated himself on the chair ofthe Great Confessional, took a golden wand, and touched all thosewho knelt before him. Then came a procession of pilgrims bearingmuffled crosses; penitents with faces covered, in white, withtapers and crosses; and one long procession of men headed bythese muffled figures, and another of women accompanied byladies, a lady walking between every two pilgrims. The cross inthe procession of women was carried by the Princess Orsini, oneof the greatest ladies in Rome. They attended them to the church(the Trinità delle Pellegrine) and washed their feet and fedthem. A real washing of dirty feet. Both the men and the womenseemed of the lowest class, but their appearance and dresses werevery picturesque. These processions entered St. Peter's, walkedall round the church, knelt at the altars, and retired in thesame order, filing along the piazza till they were lost behindthe arches of the colonnades. As the shades of night fell uponthe vast expanse of this wonderful building it became reallysublime; 'the dim religious light' glimmering from a distantaltar, or cast by the passing torches of the procession, thevoices of the choir as they sang the Miserere swelling from thechapel, which was veiled in dusk, and with no light but that ofthe high taper half hid behind the altar, with the crowds offigures assembled round the chapel moving about in the obscurityof the aisles and columns, produced the most striking effect Iever beheld. It was curious, interesting, and inspiring--littleof mummery and much of solemnity. The night here brings out freshbeauties, but of the most majestic character. There is a colourin an Italian twilight that I have never seen in England, sosoft, and beautiful, and grey, and the moon rises 'not as innorthern climes obscurely bright, ' but with far-spreading raysaround her. The figures, costume, and attitudes that you see inthe churches are wonderfully picturesque. I went afterwards tothe Jesù, where there was a tiresome service (the Tre Ore), andheard a Jesuit preaching with much passion and emphasis, butcould not understand a word he said. So then I called on Cheneyand saw his mother's illustrations of Milton, which areadmirable, full of genius. 

_At night. _--To St. Peter's, where the Miserere was not so goodas last night. It was reported that the Pope was coming to St. Peter's, and the Swiss Guards lined the nave, but he did notarrive. Formerly, when the Cross was illuminated, he used to comewith all the cardinals to adore it. Now the cardinals (or rathersome of them) came and adored the Cross and the relics belongingto the church, which were exhibited in succession from one of thebalconies--a bit of the true Cross, Santa Veronica's bloodyhandkerchief, and others. There were, as the night before, several fraternities of penitents, some in black, others in whiteor brown, all disguised by long hoods, but there was to-night oneof the most striking and remarkable exhibitions I ever beheld. 

The Grand Penitentiary, Cardinal Gregorio, again took his seat inthe chair of the Great Confessional. All those who have beenabsolved after confession by their priest, and who presentthemselves before him, are touched with his golden wand, in tokenof confirmation of the absolution, and here again that qualitywhich I have so often remarked as one of the peculiar characteristicsof the Catholic religion is very striking. Men and women, beggarsand princesses, present themselves indiscriminately; they allkneel in a row, and he touches them in succession. In thechurches there seem to be no distinctions of rank; no one, however great or rich, is contaminated by the approximation ofpoverty and rags. But to return to the Confessional. There aresome crimes of such enormity that absolution for them can only begranted by the Pope himself, who delegates his power to the GrandPenitentiary, and he receives such confessions in the chair inwhich he was seated to-day. They are, however, very rare; butthis evening, after he had finished touching the people, a man, dressed like a peasant in a loose brown frock, worsted stockings, and brogues, apparently of the lowest order, dark, ill-looking, and squalid, approached the Confessional to reveal some greatcrime. The confession was very long, so was the admonition of theCardinal which followed it. The appearance of the Cardinal isparticularly dignified and noble, and, as he bent down his head, joining it to that of this ruffian-like figure, listening withextreme patience and attention, and occasionally speaking to himwith excessive earnestness, while the whole surrounding multitudestood silently gazing at the scene, all conscious that some greatcriminal was before them, but none knowing the nature of thecrime, it was impossible not to be deeply interested andimpressed with such a spectacle. Nothing could exceed thepatience of the Cardinal and the intensity with which he seemedabsorbed in the tale of the penitent. When it was over he wipedhis face, as if he had been agitated by what he heard. It wasimpossible not to feel that be the balance for or againstconfession (which is a difficult question to decide, though I aminclined to think the balance is against) it is productive ofsome good effects, and, though susceptible of enormous abuses, isa powerful instrument of good when properly used. I have no doubtit is largely abused, but it is the most powerful weapon of theRomish Church, the one, I believe, by which it principally lives, moves, and has its being. That penitence must be real, and of anature to be worked upon, which can induce a man to come forwardin the face of multitudes and exhibit himself as the perpetratorof some atrocious though unknown crime. 

[Page Head: PILGRIMS AT SUPPER]

At night I went to the Trinità dei Pellegrini to see the pilgrimsat supper. The washing of the feet was over; a cardinal performsit with the men, and ladies with the women, but it is no mereceremony as at the Vatican; they really do wash and scrub thedirty feet perhaps of about a dozen of them each night. I saw theroom in which they were just clearing away the apparatus andcollecting piles of dirty towels. The pilgrims sit on benches;under their feet are a number of small wooden tubs, with cocks toturn the water into them, and there they are washed. Afterwardsthey go to supper, and then to bed. The men sup in a very longhall--most curious figures, and natives of half the world. TheCardinal Camerlengo[17] says grace and cuts the meat. They arewaited upon by gentlemen and priests, and have a very substantialmeal. The women are treated in the same way. [18] No men areadmitted to their hall, but we contrived to get to the door andsaw it all. The Princess Orsini and a number of Roman ladies werethere (who had been washing feet) with aprons on, waiting uponthem at supper. Their dormitories were spacious, clean, andsweet, though the beds were crowded together. The pilgrims arekept there from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, when they aredismissed. Their numbers are generally about 250 or 300. Thefunds of the establishment are supplied by private subscriptions, legacies, and donations, the names of the benefactors, with theamount of their contributions, being recorded on boards hung upin the hall. There were a great many spectators, but the wholeceremony was ordered with regularity and decency, which is morethan can be said for those of the Vatican. I walked to-night toSt. Peter's, to look at it by moonlight. From every point of viewit is magnificent; the stillness of the night is broken only bythe waters of the fountains, which glitter in the moonbeams likesheets of molten silver. The obelisk, the façade, the cupola, andthe columns all contribute to the grandeur and harmony of thescene: but everything at Rome should be seen at night. The Castleof St. Angelo, the Tiber, and the Bridge are all wonderfully finein these bright nights. 

 [17] Minister of the Interior and Chamberlain; but Gonsalvi deprived the Camerlengo of his Ministerial functions, and joined them to the Secretaryship of State, and so it has since remained. 

 [18] I met Lady ----, a very tiresome woman, a day or two after, who had been to see this ceremony, and was most devoutly edified by the humility and charity of the ladies. She told me a very old woman put out her foot to her, thinking she was one of them, and begged her to be very careful, as she had got some sores produced by the itch; but as it formed no part of her Protestant duty, she turned her over to the Princess Orsini, who handled this horrid old leg with great tenderness; and afterwards, when the same Princess was handed into the other apartment to see the male pilgrims at supper, by an attendant in the livery which they all wore, this attendant turned out to be Prince Corsini. It sounds very fine, but after all I don't think there is much in it. It is ostentatious charity and humility, and though rather disgusting and disagreeable, it is the fashion, and those who do it are set up in a capital stock of piety and virtue. It _may be_ both cause and effect of great moral excellence, but I think it questionable. 

[Page Head: PROTESTANT BURIAL GROUND]

April 10th, 1830 {p. 322}

In the morning to St. John Lateran, where, as my _laquais deplace_ said, 'converted Jews, or Turks, or _Lutherans_' werebaptised; got too late for the baptism, which I believe is afarce regularly got up, but heard the High Mass. The churcheswere crowded all this week with pilgrims, whose appearance isalways very picturesque. Went into the cloisters, and was shownby the monk or priest (whichever he was) some very remarkablearticles that they possess--a bit of the column on which the cockstood when he crowed after Peter's three denials; a slab showingthe exact height of Jesus Christ, as he could just stand underit, [19] and two halves which had once been a whole column, butwhich was broken when the veil of the Temple was rent on thedeath of Christ. The column is adorned with sculpture, which theysay is Jewish, and was brought to Rome with the Holy Stairs. Thento Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, where they were performing HighMass, with many assistants and a full choir, but without acongregation; there were not six people in the church. To MinervaMedica, a questionable and uninteresting ruin, and besidesfalling to pieces. To the Barberini Palace, where there is littlebesides the Cenci, which is worth going any distance to see. Tothe Doria, a magnificent palace, with an immense number ofpictures, and some very fine ones, which I was hurried through. To the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, which is in the middle of thewall of Aurelian, and forms the back of a very pretty Protestantburial ground, the greatest number of those who have been buriedthere being of course English. It is on the side of a hill withhigh, turreted walls behind it. There are two rows of whitemarble tombs, whose diminutive proportions form a contrast withthe enormous sepulchre of the Roman. Round some of the tombstonesrose-trees and other shrubs have been planted, and all but oneadorned with epitaphs and inscriptions in Latin, English, German, and Italian. That one is the tomb of the pretty Miss Bathurst whowas drowned in the Tiber. Her mother was to have returned to Romeand supply the epitaph, but she has never come, and it has noteven her name inscribed upon it. I copied the following, whichare apparently intended for Latin verses, from one of the tombs--of Frederica Ursulina Arabella de Montmorency, by her father, Colonel Raymond Henry de Montmorency, whose feelings set quantityat defiance:--

 Frederica quae Claris fueram praelata puellis Illa ego hoc brevi condita sum tumulo; Cui formam pulcherrimam, charites tribuere decoram Quam Deus cunctis artibus erudiit. 

 [19] He must have been just six feet high. 

Clambered up Monte Testaccio, from which the view is beautiful, and then went on to the ruins of San Paolo fuori le Mure. Thechurch, which was the finest in Rome except St. Peter's, wasentirely destroyed by fire; but although it is near three milesfrom the gates, and not the least wanted, and that there arehundreds of churches, half of which seldom or never havecongregations to fill them, they are already rebuilding this atan enormous cost, and the priest told me, to my great disgust, that they had got all the materials ready, and in ten years theyexpected the work to be finished. There are plenty of fools foundto contribute to the expense, the greatest part of which, however, is supplied by the Government. It is to be built just asit was before, but they cannot replace the enormous marblecolumns which were its principal ornament. To a church to hearthe Armenian Mass. The priests arrived in splendid orientaldresses, but I did not stay it out. Walked to the BorgheseGardens, the fine weather being something of which no descriptioncan convey an idea, and in it the beauty of Rome and its gardensand environs are equally indescribable. Groups of pilgrims intheir odd dresses, with staves, and great bundles on their heads, were lounging about, or lying under the trees. At night to theColiseum (but the moon never will shine properly), and back bythe Forum and the Capitol. The columns in the Forum lookbeautiful, but St. Peter's gains at least as much as the ancientruins by the light of the moon. The views from different hills, and sunset from the Pincian in such weather as this, and withspring bursting in every direction, are things never to beforgotten. 

Sunday. {p. 324}

High Mass in St. Peter's, which was crowded. I walked about thechurch to see the groups and the extraordinary and picturesquefigures moving through the vast space. They are to the lastdegree interesting: in one place hundreds prostrate before analtar--pilgrims, soldiers, beggars, ladies, gentlemen, old andyoung in every variety of attitude, costume, and occupation. Thebenediction was much finer than on Thursday, the day magnificent, the whole piazza filled with a countless multitude, all in theirholiday dresses, and carriages in the back-ground to the veryend. The troops forming a brilliant square in the middle, theimmense population and variety of costume, the weather, and theglorious locality certainly made as fine a spectacle as canpossibly be seen. The Pope is dressed in white, with the triplecrown on his head; two great fans of feathers, exactly like thoseof the Great Mogul, are carried on each side of him. He sitsaloft on his throne, and is slowly borne to the front of thebalcony. The moment he appears there is a dead silence, and everyhead is bared. When he rises, the soldiers all fall on theirknees, and some, but only a few, of the spectators. The distanceis so great that he looks like a puppet, and you just see himmove his hands and make some signs. When he gives the blessing--the sign of the cross--the cannon fires. He blesses the peopletwice, remains perhaps five minutes in the balcony, and iscarried out as he came in. 

The numbers who come to the benediction are taken as a test ofthe popularity of the Pope, though I suppose the weather has agood deal to do with it. Leo XII. Was very unpopular from hisausterity, and particularly his shutting up the wine shops. Thefirst time he gave the benediction after that measure hardlyanybody came to be blessed. 

[Page Head: ILLUMINATION OF ST. PETER'S]

_At night. _--The illumination of St. Peter's is as fine as I wastold it was, and that is saying everything. I saw it from thePincian, from the windows of the French Academy and HoraceVernet's room. He is established in the Villa Medici; a verylively little fellow, and making a great deal of money asdirector of the Academy and by his paintings. His daughter isvery pretty. Here I met Savary, the Duc de Rovigo, a tall, stout, vulgar-looking man. We were introduced and conversed on Frenchpolitics. Afterwards drove down to the piazza and round it. Theillumination is more effective at a distance, but I think itlooks best from the entrance to the piazza and the Bridge of St. Angelo; the blaze of light, the crowd, and the fountains, coveredwith a red glare, made altogether the most splendid sight in theworld. (One poor devil was killed, and there is almost alwayssome accident. ) Eight hundred men are employed in illuminatingSt. Peter's; the first pale and subdued light, which covers thewhole church, is brought out by the darkness of night, the littlelamps being lit in the day-time. The blazing lights which succeedare made by large pots of grease with wicks in them; there is oneman to every two lamps. On a given signal, each man touches histwo lamps as quick as possible, so that the whole building burstsinto light at once by a process the effect of which is quitemagical--literally, as the Rejected Addresses say, 'starts intolight, and makes the lighter start. '

April 12th, 1830 {p. 325}

At night at Torlonia's to see the girandola, which is as fine asfireworks can be, but nothing will do after the illumination ofSt. Peter's. All the world was there at an assembly after theceremony, at which I was introduced to Don Michele Gaetani, saidto be the cleverest man in Rome, and I had a long conversationwith Monsignore Spada, who is a young layman with ecclesiasticalrank and costume, and a judge. A Monsignore holds ecclesiasticalrank at Rome, as a Lady of the Bedchamber at St. Petersburg holdsmilitary rank, where she is a major-general; there is no other. He is free to marry, and I presume to do anything else, but hemust preserve a certain orthodox gravity of dress and conduct; heis a curious nondescript, about an equal mixture of the cardinaland the dandy. This Monsignore is a very clever, agreeable man, and gave me some information about the administration of law inthis country. There seems to be a good deal of laxity in it, fora man was condemned for stabbing another (with premeditation) alittle while ago to six months' imprisonment, or more perhaps;and having been George Hamilton's _laquais de place_, his familycame to him and begged him to try and get him off. He applied toSpada, and got the punishment commuted to some triflingimprisonment, and when he got out he came, with all his family, to kiss Hamilton's hand. 

[Page Head: BUNSEN ON THE FORUM]

April 13th, 1830 {p. 326}

Breakfasted with Bunsen at the Capitol; Lovaine, Morier, Haddington, Hamilton, Kestner, Falck, G. Fitzclarence, Sir W. Gell, a little Italian servant, and Mr. Hall, Bunsen's brother-in-law. Haddington told the story of Canning's sending to Bagot a despatchin cipher, containing these lines:--

 In matters of commerce the fault of the Dutch Is giving too little and asking too much; With equal protection the French are content: So we'll lay on Dutch bottoms just twenty per cent. _Chorus of Officers. _--We'll lay, &c. _Chorus of Douaniers. _--Nous frapperons Falck avec Twenty per cent. 

He received the despatch at dinner, and sent it to be deciphered. After some hours they brought him word they did not know what tomake of it, for it seemed to be in verse, when he at once sawthere was a joke. 

Went to see the excavations in the Via Triumphalis and the Templeof Concord, and heard Bunsen's theory of the Forum. Bunsen givesdifferent names to the remains of the temples in the Forum fromthose which have been usually given, and by which they are known, and on very plausible grounds, drawn chiefly from accounts indifferent Roman authors and peculiarities in the buildingsthemselves. The Temple of Fortune he thinks was the Basilica ofAugustus, and the Temple of Jupiter Tonans the Temple of Saturn;but all his reasons I need not put down if I could remember them, for are they not written in the voluminous work he is going topublish in four or six volumes octavo?

Bunsen's history is rather curious. He was a poor German studentdestined for the Church; came to Rome, and got employed byNiebuhr, from whom he first got a taste for antiquities. The Kingof Prussia came to Rome and saw him; he was struck with hisknowledge and the character he heard of him, and consulted himabout a new Liturgy he wished to introduce into Prussia. Bunsengave him so much satisfaction in that matter, as well as in someothers which were entrusted to him, that on Niebuhr's return toPrussia he was appointed to succeed him, and has been at Romeever since--thirteen years. Some say he is not a profound man, and that his speculations about the ruins are all wrong. He talksEnglish, French, and Italian like his own language. 

[Page Head: SIGHTS OF ROME]

The part of the triumphal road was discovered by accident indigging for a drain; and an attempt is being made to procure thepermission of the Government to excavate all that can be found ofit, and ascertain its exact course. It was in the Temple ofConcord that Cicero assembled the Senate and pronounced one ofhis orations against Catiline. The building must have been largeand magnificent, from the remains now visible, which are of thefinest marble. The pavement is in a state of considerablepreservation. Then we went to the old Tabularium, standing on theIntermontium, an undoubted work of the Republic. This was theplace where the records of the Senate were kept. It is veryperfect. Nibby, the great authority here, differs, however, aboutthis place; the antiquaries are at daggers drawn upon the subjectof the ruins, remains, and discoveries. They have all differentsystems, which they support with great vehemence and obstinacy, and perhaps ingenuity, but the ignorant and curious traveller isonly perplexed with their noisy and discordant assertions. Theywill insist upon knowing everything, whereas there are manythings here which are so doubtful, that they can only conjectureabout them; but when once they have published a theory they willnot hear of its being erroneous, and oppose any fresh discoverylikely to throw discredit upon it. After his lecture in the Forumwe went to San Nicolo in Cercera, an old church built on threeold temples, or two and a prison, but not much to see. The prisonof San Nicolo in Cercera is said to be the scene of the story ofthe Roman daughter, which it probably is not. Over the Bridge ofFabricius to the Basilica of Saint Bartholomew and Temple ofEsculapius; small remains, but curious; and very pretty view ofthe Tiber and Temple of Vesta. To the Villa Lanti, a deliciousvilla belonging to Prince Borghese, who never goes there, andwill neither let nor lend it. One of the finest views of Rome isfrom the terrace, and Julio Romano's frescoes adorn the ceilings. When Raphael was painting the Vatican, he and Julio Romano usedto retire every night to the Villa Lanti, and the ceilings arecovered with frescoes painted by both of them. Just below is aterrace, and on it a beautiful tree called Tasso's Oak, becauseunder it he used to sit and compose when he lived in the Conventof San Onofrio, which is close by, and where he died. Thisconvent is remarkably clean, airy, and spacious. In the libraryis a bust of Tasso, a mask taken from his face just after hedied; in the chapel his tomb. 

 And Tasso is their glory-- Hark to his strain and then survey his cell. BYRON. 

In the cloister are some frescoes of the universal Domenichino. Ilike the Convent of San Onofrio. To Santa Maria in Trastevere, avery fine church; splendid ceiling with a Domenichino in themiddle. Immense granite columns of various orders taken from Godknows what temples, and mosaic floor rich to a degree. Largepieces of porphyry and verd antique eternally trodden by theTrasteverine mob, and never even cleaned. It is a basilica, andat the end is an ancient stone chair, which, was evidently theold justice-seat, though they of the Church do not know it. 

April 14th, 1830 {p. 329}

Set off early to make up an arrear of churches. First to SantaMaria sopra Minerva, and lit upon the funeral of a cardinal(Bertazzoli), which I was obliged to see instead of MichaelAngelo's Christ. All the cardinals attended; the church hung withblack and gold; guards, tapers, mob, &c. Then to the SS. Apostoli, Araceli (built where the Citadel stood, and is acorruption of Arx, but with a legend); a curious church enough, with some fine frescoes of Pintoriccio, and the Chapel of theVirgin with hundreds of ex voto's hang round it, almost allwretched daubs of pictures, and principally representingaccidents in gigs, carriages, or carts, broken heads or limbs. ToSanta Anastasia, Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Santa Sabina. SantaMaria in Cosmedin, or the Bocca della Verità, built in and on theruins of an old temple (di Pudicizia), is one of the best worthseeing in Rome; the columns, if freed from the modern church, would present as perfect a front as the temples in the Forum. ToMonte Aventino to see the view of Rome and the Chapel of theOrder of Malta, where Cardinal Zurla as Grand Prior has a mostagreeable residence. The garden contains immense orange-trees anda very large palm. To San Gregorio to see the famous rivalfrescoes of Guido and Domenichino, which are much impaired. Ibegan by liking Guido's and ended by liking the other best. Theview of the Palatine from this convent is magnificent. To SanGregorio and San Paolo, and saw the ruins, which must havebelonged to the Coliseum, for the architecture is exactlysimilar, and they have every appearance of having been theVivarium from their shape. To the Corsini Palace, containing oneof the best collections of pictures, of which the finest are twoportraits of cardinals by Raphael and Domenichino. The palace isvery fine, and the villa joins it on the opposite hill of theJaniculum, but both are affected by the malaria. Then to theVatican and saw all the frescoes and pictures; the collection ofpictures is very small, but they are all masterpieces. To thegallery below to see the mosaics and the process of copying thegreat pictures. The coloured bits are numbered, and though thereare not above six or seven colours, the sub-divisions of variousshades amount to 18, 000. This art is in a great degree mechanical, but requires ingenuity, attention, and some knowledge ofpainting. On the large pictures, such as those which are inSt. Peter's, several men are employed at the same time, but onthe lesser only one. It is very tedious, requiring years to copyone of the largest size. All the pictures in St. Peter's are inmosaic, except one, and they are at work on one which is toreplace this single oil-piece. The studio appeared in good order, but there were only two men at work, as the Government spendsvery little money upon it at present. From one of the opengalleries we (Morier and I) saw a thunderstorm, with gusts ofwind, flashes of lightning, and rain. It was amazingly grand fromthat place as it swept over the city and made us 'sharers in itsfierce delight. ' Then to the Borghese Gardens, and back to one ofthose sunsets from the Pincian which will long be rememberedamong the smoke and fogs in which I am destined to live. 

 CHAPTER IX. 

Lake of Albano--Velletri--Naples--Rapid Travelling in 1830--A Trial at Naples--Deciphering Manuscripts--Ball at the Duchesse d'Eboli's--Matteis's Plot and Trial--Pompeii--Taking the Veil-- Pausilippo--Baiae--La Cava--Salerno--Paestum--Lazaroni--Museum of Naples--Grotto del Cane--The Camaldoli--Herculaneum-- Vesuvius--Sorrento--Miracle of St. Januarius--Astroni--Farewell to Naples. 

[Page Head: ALBANO--NAPLES]

Velletri, April 15th, 1830 {p. 331}

Left Rome at nine o'clock this morning; at Albano procured anancient rural cicerone, a boy, and two donkeys, and set out onthe grand _giro_ of the place. The road over the Campagna isagreeable, because the prospect roundabout is so fine, and theaqueducts stretching over the plain so grand. After climbing upto the Capuchin Convent, close to which are the remains of whatis called Domitian's Theatre, we came to the lake, which isbeautiful, but does not look large, and still less as if it hadever threatened Rome with destruction. There is a road called theUpper Gallery, shaded by magnificent ilexes, which leads to theVilla Barberini, a delicious garden, once Clodius's andafterwards part of Domitian's Villa, containing many remains offormer magnificence. This villa was probably the scene of thecouncil described by Juvenal (Fourth Satire). 

 Misso proceres exire jubentur Concilio, quos Albanam Dux magnus in arcem Traxerat attonitos. 

I could not make out that any excavations have ever been madehere, though they would be certain of finding marbles. The roadpasses along the hill which overhangs the margin of the lake toCastel Gandolfo, and thence a path leads to the bottom, where arethe Emissarium, the Nyphaeum (called the Baths of Diana), and abeautiful view of the lake, Monte Albano, and its towns. There isnothing more curious than the Emissarium, built with a soliditywhich has defied the effect of time, for it has never requiredreparations, and performs its office still as it did more than2, 000 years ago (393 years before the Christian era). Nothing isso incomprehensible as the magnitude and grandeur of the works ofthe Republic before it had acquired power, territory, orpopulation. The Romans built as if they had an instinctiveprescience of future greatness, and not even the pressure ofimmediate danger could induce them to sacrifice solidity tohaste. After wondering at their enterprise and industry we may goand admire their subsequent luxury in the Baths of Diana, as theplace is called, but which is evidently a natural cave improvedinto a delicious retreat by some inhabitant of one of the villasabove. We mounted the hill and went by another road (called theLower Gallery, shaded by the finest ilexes, elms, and oaks, which'high over-arch'd embower, ' and where there is one ilex whichtwelve men can hardly embrace) to the Doria Villa, once Pompey'sand likewise Domitian's, who included both Clodius's and Pompey'sin his own. There are no remains here, but some arabesques in asort of grotto, which I suspect are modern. All their villascommand views of the Campagna, the sea, Rome, and the mountains. It is no wonder Hannibal was deeply mortified when he looked downon Rome from these hills (the hills at least close by called thePrati d'Annibale) at having twice just missed taking it. Poetryand history contribute alike to the interest of this beautifulscenery. We met an Englishman, a single bird who had lost hiscovey, and had procured a guide who could not understand what hesaid. He wanted to go to Albano, and the man was taking him tothe Emissarium. We put him right, but his fury in mixed Italian, French, and English was exceedingly comical. It was unlucky thatwe met him at the top instead of the bottom of the hill. 

The road to Aricia, where Horace got such a bad dinner--

 Egressum magnâ me excepit Aricia Româ Hospitio modico--

is beautiful, and close to Gensano we went to look at the Lake ofNemi, which is very pretty, but not so grand as Albano. Thepeasantry are a fine race in these parts, and we met many mendriving carts or riding asses who would not disgrace the mostromantic group of banditti. The people were all working in theopen air, and seemed very gay. There were few beggars, and notmuch rags and wretchedness. 

Started from Velletri at six in the morning; went very quick overthe Pontine Marshes (which form an avenue of about twenty miles, quite straight, shaded with trees, and with vegetation ofremarkable luxuriance on each side) to Terracina (Anxur), wherewe breakfasted in a room looking upon the sea. The place isextremely pretty. Thence to Mola di Gaeta, which is verybeautiful, but where we did not stop; and, after a very tiresomejourney, got to Naples at two o'clock in the morning. Vesuviuswas so obliging as to emit some flames as we passed by, just toshow us his whereabouts. They were, however, his first and hislast while I was at Naples. 

Naples, April 18th, 1830 {p. 333}

I am disappointed with Naples. I looked for more life and gaiety, a more delicious air, beautiful town, and picturesque lazaroni, more of Punch, more smoke and flame from Vesuvius. It strikes meas less beautiful than Genoa, but these are only first impressions. The Bay and the Villa Reale, a garden along the sea, full ofsweets and sea breezes and shade, are certainly delightful. Allthe people seem anxious to cheat as much as they can, from themaster of the inn to the driver of the hackney-coach. At presentI don't feel disposed to stay here, and when I have seen Paestum, Pompeii, and the environs I shall be glad to get back to Rome. Sir Henry Lushington said at dinner yesterday he had seen atNaples a 'Courier' newspaper of that day week, produced byRothschild and brought by one of his couriers. I came very fast, but was 236 hours on the road, including 20 hours' stoppage. This is 168 hours, which appears incredible, but 'gold imp'd byJews can compass hardest things. '

April 19th, 1830 {p. 334}

I retract all I said about disappointment, for I have since seenNaples, and it is the most beautiful and the gayest town in theworld. Yesterday morning with Morier I walked up to the Castle ofSt. Elmo and the Certosa; went over the chapel, which is full ofcostly marbles, and fine pictures both in oil and fresco, particularly one by Spagnolet as fine as any at Rome or anywhere. Tasted the _custode's_ lachryma Christi, which, if it be as goodof the sort as he pretends, is middling stuff, but not bad withwater. Saw all the views, which are magnificent. Walked down tothe Villa Reale, which was crowded with people, and theChiaja with carriages. Dined with Hill--half English and halfforeigners--and went to the Opera; a very indifferent opera ofRossini, ill sung, called the 'Siege of Corinth. '

This morning at half-past eight we went to the Court of Justiceto hear an extraordinary trial which excites great interest here. The proceedings of the day happened to be very uninteresting, notthat it made much difference, for I could not understand a wordanybody said, but I had an opportunity of seeing the manner inwhich they conduct trials in this country, and the behaviour ofthe judges, the counsel, and the prisoners. Nothing can be lessanalogous than the proceedings here to those which prevail in ourcourts; and although it is possible that ours might be better, itis not possible that theirs could be worse. 

I soon left the Court, and walked up the Strada di Toledo--thefinest and liveliest street in the world, I believe--crowded withpeople. An Italian proverb says, 'Quando Dio onnipotente ètristo, prende una finestra nella Toledo. ' Then to the Museum, ofwhich everything was shut but the library and the papyri. Theformer contains 180, 000 volumes, but is deficient in modern(particularly foreign) books. They showed us the process ofdeciphering the papyri, which is very ingenious. The manuscript(which is like a piece of charcoal) is suspended by light stringsin a sort of frame; gum and goldbeater's skin are applied to itas it is unrolled, and, by extreme delicacy of touch, theycontrive to unravel without destroying a great deal of it, butprobably they have been discouraged by the small reward which hasattended their exertions; for there are several black-lookingrolls which have never yet been touched, and very few men atwork. The gentlemen who explained to us the process said that SirHumphrey Davy had attended them constantly, and had taken greatpains to contrive some better chemical process for the purpose, but without success. 

[Page Head: MARQUIS DI GALLO'S VILLA]

April 20th, 1830 {p. 335}

A delightful drive (made by Murat) to the Marquis di Gallo'svilla on the Capo di Monte, which far surpasses all the villas Isaw at Rome. The entrance is about half a mile from the house, through a wood, one part of which is a vineyard; the vineshanging in festoons from cherry trees, and corn growingunderneath. The house is not large, but convenient; a wideterrace runs along the whole front of it with a white marblebalustrade; below this is a second terrace covered withrose-trees; below that a third, planted with vines, and oranges, and myrtles. From the upper terrace the view is beautiful. Napleslies beneath, and the Bay stretches beyond with the oppositemountains, and all the towns and villages from Portici toSorrento. On the right the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa, and Vesuvius on the left. There is a large wood on one side, cutinto shady walks and laid out with grottoes, and on the other avineyard, through which there is also a walk under a treillage ofvines for nearly half a mile. The ground extremely diversified, and presenting in every part of it views of the surroundingcountry--

 Umbrageous grots and caves Of cool recess, o'er which the mantling vine Lays forth her purple grape, and gently creeps Luxuriant. 

It is always let, and, till he went away, was occupied byStackelberg, the Russian Ambassador. 

In the evening went to a ball at the Duchesse d'Eboli's; very fewpeople, and hardly any English, and those not the best--onlyfour, I think: Sir Henry Lushington, the Consul; a Mr. Grieve, ofwhom I know nothing but that his father was a physician at St. Petersburg, and that he killed his brother at Eton by putting acracker into his pocket on the 5th of November, which set fire toother crackers and burnt him to death; Mr. Auldjo, the man whomade a very perilous ascent of Mont Blanc, of which he publisheda narrative; Mr. Arbuthnot, who levanted from Doncaster two yearsago--but most of the Italian women were there, and I wassurprised at their beauty. Acton, who introduced me to some ofthem, assured me that they were models of conduct, which did notprecisely tally with my preconceived notions of Neapolitansociety. They danced, but with no music but a pianoforte. This isone of the few houses here which is habitually open, for theyhave not the means of doing much in the way of society andgaiety; they are poor, and the Government (the worst in theworld) interferes. The Duchesse d'Eboli is poor, but she was abeauty, and has had adventures of various sorts. 

[Page Head: MATTEIS'S TRIAL]

April 21st, 1830 {p. 336}

Dined with Keppel Craven yesterday; Acton, Morier, Duchessed'Eboli, and some other people. 

The day was so disagreeable yesterday I could not go out--notcold, but a hurricane and clouds of dust. The principal topic ofconversation at dinner was the trial, which goes on every day, has already lasted a month, and is likely to last two or threemore. The Code Napoléon is in force here, so that there mayprobably be something like a certain and equal administrationof justice between man and man; but this is a Governmentprosecution, and therefore exempted from ordinary rules. Thehistory of this trial exemplifies the state of both the law andthe Government of this country. The accused are five in number;the principal of them, Matteis, was an _intendente_, or governor, of a province; 2nd, the advocate-general of the province; 3rd, Matteis's secretary; and 4th and 5th, two spies. These men unitedin a conspiracy to destroy various persons who were obnoxious tothem in the province, some of them actuated by political motives, and others in order to get possession of the property of theirvictims. The bugbear of the Court is Carbonarism, and Matteispretended that there was a Carbonari plot on foot, in whichseveral persons were implicated. He employed the spies to seducethe victims into some imprudence of language or conduct, and thento inform against them; in this way he apprehended variousindividuals, some of whom were tortured, some imprisoned or sentto the galleys, and some put to death. These transactions tookplace eight or nine years ago, and such was the despotism of thisman and the terror he inspired, that no resistance was made tohis proceedings, or any appeal against them ever sent to Naples. At last one of his own secretaries made some disclosures toGovernment, and the case appeared so atrocious that it wasthought necessary to institute an immediate enquiry. The_intendente_ was ordered to Naples, and commissioners were sentto obtain evidence in the province and sift the matter to thebottom. After much delay they made a report confirming the firstaccusations and designating these five men as the criminals. Assoon as the matter was thus taken up, the public indignationburst forth, and a host of witnesses who had been deterred byfear from opening their lips came forward to depose againstMatteis and his associates. They were arrested in the year 1825and thrown into prison, but owing to the difficulties and delaywhich they contrived by their influence to interpose, and to theanomalous character of the prosecution, five years elapsed beforethe proceedings began. At length a royal order constituted aCourt of Justice, composed of all the judges of the Court ofCassation (about twenty), the highest tribunal in the kingdom, and they have just been enjoined not to separate till the finaladjudication of the case. Although the offences with which thecriminals are charged are very different in degree, they are allarraigned together; a host of witnesses are examined, each ofwhom tells a story or makes a speech, and the evidence isaccordingly very confused, now affecting one and now another ofthem. They have counsel and the right of addressing the Courtthemselves, which the _intendente_ avails himself of with suchinsolence that they are obliged to begin the proceedings of eachday by reading an order to the prisoners to behave themselvesdecently to the Court. Their counsel are assigned by the Court, and it is not one of the least extraordinary parts of this casethat the advocate of Matteis is his personal enemy, and a manwhom he displaced from an office he once held in the province. They say, however, that he defends him very fairly and zealously. The day I was there the proceedings were uninteresting, butyesterday they were very important. An officer was examined whohad been imprisoned and ill-treated in prison, and who deposed tovarious acts of cruelty. They on their part hardly deny thefacts, but attempt to justify them by proving that the sufferersreally were Carbonari, that other governors had done the samething, and that they were doing a service to the Government bythese pretended plots and consequent executions. Though theirguilt is clear, it is by no means so clear that they will becondemned, or at least all of them. The public indignation is sogreat that they must sacrifice some of them, and the spies, it issaid, will certainly be hanged. Matteis has interest in theCourt, but, as a majority of votes will decide his fate, it ismost likely he will be condemned. 

April 22nd, 1830 {p. 338}

Yesterday to Pompeii, far better worth seeing than anything elsein Italy. Who can look at other ruins after this? At Rome thereare certain places consecrated by recollections, but theimagination must be stirred up to enjoy them; here you areactually in a Roman town. Shave off the upper storey of any town, take out windows, doors, and furniture, and it will be as Pompeiinow is: it is marvellous. About one-fifth part of the town hasbeen excavated, and the last house found is the largest. It issaid 1, 000 men would clear it in a year, and there are thirty atwork. The road is a bed of dust, and infested with blind beggars, each led by a boy. There are habitations almost uninterruptedlyalong the road between Naples and Pompeii, built apparently forno other reason than because they are exposed to eruptions of themountain, for any other part of the Bay would be just asagreeable, and safe from that danger. 

[Page Head: TAKING THE VEIL]

This morning we went to an Ursuline convent to see two girlstake the veil. The ceremony was neither imposing, nor interesting, nor affecting, nor such as I expected. I believe all this wouldhave been the case had it been the black veil, but it was thewhite unfortunately. I thought they would be dressed splendidly, have their hair cut off in the church, be divested (in theconvent) of their finery, and reappear to take leave of theirrelations in the habit of the order. Not at all. I went with A. Hill and Legge, who had got tickets from the brother of one ofthe _sposine_; we were admitted to the grating, an apartmentabout ten feet long by five wide, with a very thick doublegrating, behind which some of the nuns appeared and chattered. Aturning box supplied coffee and cakes to the company. I went tothe door of the parlour (which was open), but they would notadmit me. There the ladies were received, and the nuns andnovices were laughing and talking and doing the honours. Theirdress was not ugly--black, white, and a yellow veil. The chapelwas adorned with gold brocade, and blue and silver hangings, flowers, tapers; a good orchestra, and two or three tolerablevoices. It was as full as it could hold, and soldiers weredistributed about to keep order; even by the altar four stoodwith fixed bayonets, who when the Host was raised presentedarms--a military salute to the Real Presence! The brother of oneof the girls did the honours of the chapel, placing the ladiesand bustling about for chairs, which all the time the ceremonywas going on were handed over heads and bonnets, to the greatdanger of the latter. It was impossible not to be struck withthis man's gaiety and _sang-froid_ on the occasion, but he isused to it, for this was the fourth sister he has buried here. When the chapel was well crammed the _sposine_ appeared, eachwith two _marraines_. A table and six chairs were placed oppositethe altar; on the table were two trays, each containing a PrayerBook, a pocket-handkerchief, and a white veil. The girls (whowere very young, and one of them rather pretty) were dressed inlong black robes like dressing-gowns, their hair curled, hangingdown their backs and slightly powdered. On the top of theirheads were little crowns of blue, studded with silver ordiamonds. The ladies attending them (one of whom was PrincessFondi and another Princess Bressano) were very smart, and all thepeople in the chapel were dressed as for a ball. There was apriest at the table to tell the girls what to do. High Mass wasperformed, then a long sermon was delivered by a priest who spokevery fluently, but with a strange twang and in a very odd style, continually apostrophising the two girls by name, comparing themto olives and other fruit, to _candelabri_, and desiring them tokeep themselves pure that 'they might go as virgins into thechamber of their beloved. ' When the Sacrament was administeredthe ladies took the crowns off the girls, who were like automataall the time, threw the white veils over them, and led them tothe altar, where the Sacrament was administered to them; thenthey were led back to their seats, the veils taken off and thecrowns replaced. After a short interval they were again led tothe altar, where, on their knees, their profession was read tothem; in this they are made to renounce the world and theirparents; but at this part, which is at the end, a murmuring noiseis made by the four ladies who kneel with them at the altar, thatthe words may not be heard, being thought too heart-rending tothe parents; then they are led out and taken into the convent, and the ceremony ends. The girls did not seem the least affected, but very serious; the rest of the party appeared to consider itas a _fête_, and smirked and gossiped; only the father of one ofthem, an old man, looked as if he felt it. The brother told mehis sister was eighteen; that she would be a nun, and that theyhad done all they could to dissuade her. It is a rigid order, butthere is a still more rigid rule within the convent. Thosenuns who embrace it are for ever cut off from any sort ofcommunication with the world, and can never again see orcorrespond with their own family. They cannot enter into thislast seclusion without the consent of their parents, whichanother of this man's four sisters is now soliciting. 

We afterwards drove through the Grotto of Pausilippo, thatinfernal grotto which one must pass through to get out of Napleson one side; it is a source of danger, and the ancient account ofit is not the least exaggerated:--

 Nihil isto carcere longius, nihil illis faucibus obscurius, quo nobis praestant non ut per tenebras videamus sed ut ipsas. 

There are a few glimmering lamps always obscured by dust, and itis never hardly light enough to avoid danger except at night; inthe middle it is pitch dark. 

Then round the Strada Nuova, Murat's delightful creation, andwalked in the Villa Reale, where I found Acton, who had been allthe morning at the trial, which was very interesting. A woman wasexamined, who deposed that her husband was thrown into prison andill-treated by Matteis because he would not give some falseevidence that he required of him; that she went to Matteis andentreated him to release him, and that he told her he would ifshe would bring her daughter to him, which she refused, and hewas put to death. On this evidence being given, the examiningjudge dropped the paper, and a murmur of horror ran through theaudience. The accused attacked the witness and charged her withperjury, and said he was ill in bed at the time alluded to. Thewoman retorted, 'Canaglia, tu sai ch' egli è vero, ' and there wasa debate between the counsel on either side, and witnesses werecalled who proved that he was in good health at the time. Theythink the evidence of to-day and the apparent disposition of thejudges must hang him. 

[Page Head: BAIAE]

Salerno, April 24th, 1830 {p. 341}

Here Morier and I are going to pass the night on our way toPaestum, and as he is gone to bed (at half-past eight) I mustwrite. Yesterday morning Morier, St. John, Lady Isabella, and Iwent to Pozzuoli, embarked in a wretched boat to make the _giro_of Baiae. 

 Ante bonam Venerem gelidae per litora Baiae Illa natare lacu cum lampade jussit amorem, Dura natat, algentes cecidit scintilla per undas, Hinc vapor ussit aquas, quicumque natavit, amavit. 

 Venus bade Cupid on fair Baiae's side Plunge with his torch into the glassy tide; As the boy swam the sparks of mischief flew And fell in showers upon the liquid blue; Hence all who venture on that shore to lave Emerge love-stricken from the treacherous wave. 

I was disappointed with the country, which is bare anduninteresting; but the line of coast, with the various bays andpromontories and the circumjacent islands, is extremelyagreeable, and the Bay of Baiae, with the Temple of Venus, delightful. The Temple of Mercury is also worth seeing. The Caveof the Sybil, Lake Avernus, and Temple of Apollo are not worthseeing, but as they are celebrated by Virgil they must bevisited, though the embellishments of Virgil's imagination andthe lapse of time have made disappointment inevitable. Natureindeed no longer presents the same aspect; for there is amountain more (Monte Nuovo) and a wood less about the lake thanin Virgil's time. We found two ridiculous parties there, oneEnglish, the other French, the latter the most numerous andchattering, and mounted on asses, so as to make a long cavalcade. There was a fat old gentleman just coming puffing out of thecave, and calling with delight to his ladies, 'Ah, mesdames, êtes-vous noires?' as they certainly were, for all one gets inthe cave is a blackened face from the torches. There was anothergaunt figure of the party in a fur cap, who was playing theflute--

 His reedy pipe with music fills, To charm the God who loves the hills And rich Arcadian scenery. 

We landed from our boat in various places, but declined goingdown the Cento Camerelle to have a second face-blackening. All the ruins, said to be of Caesar's and Marius's Villas, Agrippina's Tomb, Caligula's Bridge, &c. , may be anything; theyare nothing but shapeless fragments, only on a rock I saw a bitof marble or stucco in what they call Caesar's Villa. The StygianLake presented no horrors, nor the Elysian Fields any delights;the former is a great round piece of water, and the latter arevery common-looking vineyards. When well wooded, which in thetime of the Romans it was, this coast must have been a mostdelicious and luxurious retreat, so sequestered and sheltered, such a calm sea, and soft breezes. 

 Mira quies pelagi; ponunt hic lassa furorem Aequora, et insani spirant clementius Austri. 

We went up to look at the old harbour of Misenum, where, insteadof a Roman fleet, were a few fishing-boats, and walked backthrough fields in which spring was bursting forth through endlessvarieties of cultivation--figs, mulberries, and cherry trees, with festoons of vines hanging from tree to tree, and corn, peas, and beans springing up underneath. 

Our boatmen, as we rowed back, were very proud of their English, and kept on saying 'Pull away, ' 'Now boys, ' and other phrasesthey have picked up from our sailors. This morning we set offto come here [to Salerno] with Vetturino horses; the dustintolerable; stopped at Pompeii, and walked half round the wallsand to the Amphitheatre. All the ground (now covered withvineyards) belongs to the King (for Murat bought it); theprofusion and brilliancy of the wild flowers make it quite agarden--

 Flowers worthy of Paradise, which not nice art In beds and curious knots, but nature boon Pours forth profuse on hill, and dale, and plain. 

[Page Head: EXCAVATIONS AT POMPEII]

If Murat had continued on the throne two or three years longer, the whole town would have been excavated. He, and still more theQueen, took great interest in it, and they both went therefrequently. She used to see the houses excavated, and one daythey found the skeleton of a woman with gold bracelets andearrings, which were brought to her, and she put them on herselfdirectly. In their time 800 men and 50 cars were at work; nowthere are 40 men and 6 cars. The expense of 800 men and 50 carswould be about £13, 000 a year, but these men will spend nothing. A car costs a scudo, and a man four carlins, a day. (A scudo isten carlins, a carlin fourpence. ) The Royal Family seldom ornever come here; the Duke of Calabria has been once. TheAmphitheatre, though not to be compared in size or beauty withthe Coliseum, is much more perfect. The road here is beautiful, particularly about La Cava. I walked up to the Convent of theTrinità; it stands on the brink of a deep ravine in the middle ofthe hills, which are tossed into a hundred different shapes andcovered with foliage--a magnificent situation. The convent isvery large, and well kept; it contains fifty monks, who were mostof them walking about the road. Here were all the raw materialsrequisite for a romance--a splendid setting sun, mountains, convent, flock of goats, evening bell, friars, and peasants. Arrived here, delighted with the outside and disgusted with theinside of the town; but the Bay of Salerno is beautiful, theplace gay and populous, all staring at a fire-balloon which wasjust ascending, and soon after came down in the sea. The innsexecrable. We got into one at last, in which there is a wideterrace looking over the sea, and there we ordered our dinner tobe laid; but we were soon driven in, not by the cold, but by theflaring of our tallow candles. 

We were obliged to write our names down for the police, who arevery busy and inquisitive. One man, whose name was just beforemine, had added this poetical encomium on the inn:--

 I mention by way of _guidanza_ For those who are going to Paestum, They'll find at this inn, the 'Speranza, ' A good place to eat and to rest 'em. 

I could not concur with this poet, so I added to my name thiscontradiction:--

 On the 'Hope's' being such a good treat We must both put our positive vetos; We not only got nothing to eat, But ourselves were ate up by mosquitos. 

[Page Head: PAESTUM]

Naples, April 25th, 1830 {p. 344}

Started at four o'clock in the morning from Salerno, and got toPaestum at eight. Tormented to death by beggars and ciceroni(often both characters in one), for in Italy everybody who showsa stranger about is a cicerone, from Professor Nibby down to aCalabrian peasant. There is little beauty in the scenery ofPaestum, but the temples amply repay the trouble of the journey. I agree with Forsyth that they are the most impressive monumentsI have ever seen. The famed roses of Paestum have disappeared, but there are thousands of lizards 'nunc virides etiam occultantspineta lacertos. ' No excavations have ever been made here, butthey talk of excavating. There were some fine Etruscan vasesfound in a tomb at Paestum, which we did not see. The brute of a_custode_ knew nothing of it, nor should I if I had not seen themodel in the Museum afterwards. Thousands of Etruscan vases maybe had for digging; they are found in all the tombs. The peasantshave heaps of little carved images of terra cotta and coins, which they offer for sale. I believed they were fabricated, but aman I met there showed me two or three that he had turned up withhis stick, so that they may be genuine. What treasures Naplespossesses, and how unworthy she is of them! Paestum[1] longneglected, and Pompeii hardly touched! At Rome they are alwaysdigging and doing something, and though the Papal Government isneither active nor rich, I do believe they would not let thistown (Pompeii, I mean) remain buried when a few thousand poundswould bring it all to light. There seem to be no habitations nearPaestum, but there is a church, which was well attended, for thepeasants were on their knees all round it; and while we werebreakfasting (in a manger with the horses out in the air) theycame out, strange-looking figures, rude, uncouth, and sunburnt, and without any of the finery which they generally wear on aSunday. 

 [1] The authorities of course can't agree when Paestum was built, and by whom, or whether one of the temples (the largest) was a temple or a basilica. The perfect state of these temples, particularly that called of Neptune, is the more remarkable because there are scarcely any vestiges of other buildings. Morier thought them inferior to the temples at Athens, but so they may well be; the Athenian temples are built of white marble from the Pentelic quarries, and highly ornamented by Phidias. 

Naples, April 26th, 1830 {p. 345}

To the Museum; met the Dalbergs and Prince and PrincessAldobrandini, a good-looking daughter and two sons. They willhave all Prince Borghese's estate. I only went into the Pompeiiand Herculaneum part of the collections. 

The lazaroni are very amusing. This morning four of them strippedstark naked under my window, put off in a boat, and thirty yardsfrom the shore fished for cockle fish, which they do by divinglike ducks, throwing their feet up in the air as the ducks dotheir tails. The creatures are perfectly amphibious; they don'tcare who sees them, and their forms are perfect. Then there arelittle lazaroni who ape the big ones. Met a christening thismorning, and then a funeral. The wet nurse, full dressed, wascarried in a sedan chair down the middle of the street, and thechild, dressed also, held out of the window in her arms, and soshe was going to church. The funeral was a priest's--a long fileof penitents in white, carrying torches, a bier covered withcrimson and gold, and the priest dressed in robes and exposedupon it, a ghastly sight, with a chalice in his hand and a bookat his feet, other priests following, the cross borne before him. When young girls are buried in this way, they are gaily dressedwith chaplets of flowers, a flower in the mouth, and flowers attheir feet. 

Rode to the race-course and round the hills; such views and suchan evening! At seven o'clock I could see the houses at Sorrento, nineteen miles off on the other side of the Bay. Dined withActon; none but English. In the evening went to Toledo, theSpanish Ambassador's. The Duc de Dalberg talked of an associationto excavate at Calabria and Apulia. The Government reserves fourplaces--Pompeii, Paestum, Stabiae, Herculaneum--for its own use, and anybody may excavate elsewhere who will be at the trouble andexpense. 

[Page Head: ANTIQUE PAINTING]

April 29th, 1830 {p. 346}

On Tuesday again to the Museum and the King's Palace; ratherfine, good house, very ridiculous pictures of the royal familiesof Naples and Spain. The Duchess of Floridia's apartment (oldFerdinand's wife) is delightful; the rooms are furnished withblue satin and white silk, opening upon a terrace covered withorange-trees, flowers, and shaded walks, and looks over the Bay. A few fine pictures, but not many. There is a bath, built afterone of those at Pompeii. 

From what I saw at the Museum, I see no reason to doubt that theancients were as excellent in painting as in sculpture; there aresome very exquisite paintings taken from Pompeii. Then we are notto believe that the best have been found, or that a provincialtown contained the finest specimens of the art. Painted on walls, they appear deficient in light and shade, but the drawing andexpression, and sometimes the colouring (allowing for spoiling), are very good. There are some Cupids playing at games, anddriving chariots, very like the Julio Romanos in the Lanti Villaat Rome, which indeed were borrowed from the ancient frescoesdiscovered in the Baths of Titus. The bronzes taken out ofHerculaneum and Pompeii are very interesting, because theydisplay the whole domestic economy of the ancients, and theirexcellent taste in furniture, sacrificial instruments, &c. , butthere is nothing particularly curious in the fact of their potsand pans being like our pots and pans, for if they were to boiland stew they could not well have performed those operations witha different kind of utensils. However, all the people marvel atthem; they seem to think the Romans must have been beings of adifferent organisation, and that everything that is notdissimilar is strange. What is really curious is a surgicalinstrument which was lately found, exactly similar to oneinvented thirty years ago in France. The lava would not touchbronze; the iron was always encrusted and spoilt, but the bronzethings all look like new. 

May 2nd, 1830 {p. 347}

Went to the Lake of Agnano and the Grotto del Cane; very prettylake, evidently the crater of a volcano; saw the dog perform; asight neither interesting nor cruel; the dog did not mind it abit, and the old woman must make a fortune, for she had eightcarlins for it. The grotto is very hot and steaming; a torch goesout held near the ground, and when I put my face down the steamfrom the earth went up my nose like salts. Virgil's Tomb, whichis very picturesque, and from whence the common view of Naples istaken; there has been plenty of discussion whether it really isVirgil's tomb or not. Forsyth seems to doubt it, with one of hisoff-hand flings at the authority for its being so, a sort of 'Whothe Devil, I humbly beg to know, is Donatus?' but there istradition in its favour, the fact of Virgil having been buriedhere or hereabouts, and the honour being claimed by no otherspot. When there is probability it is unwise to be so verysceptical: take away names, and what are the places themselves?Here not much, at Rome nothing. 

[Page Head: RUINS ABOUT NAPLES]

Thursday. {p. 348}

Went a long and most beautiful ride up to the Camaldoli, fromwhich the view extends over sea and land to an immense distancein every direction. 

 Thus was this place A happy rural seat of various views. 

The convent was once very rich, but the French stripped all theconvents of their property, which they have never sincerecovered. It is remarkably clean and spacious. Each monk has ahouse of his own containing two or three little rooms, and alittle garden, and they only eat together on particular days. Theold man who took us about said he had been there since he waseighteen, had been turned out by the French, but came back assoon as he could, and had never regretted becoming a monk. Heshowed me a bust of the founder of their order (I think SanRomualdo), and when I asked him how many years ago it wasfounded, he said, 'Perhaps 2, 000. ' I said when I became a monk Iwould go to that convent, when he asked very seriously if I wasgoing to be a monk. I said, 'Not just yet. ' 'Very well, ' he said;'you must pay 120 ducats, and you can come here. ' We went down aroad cut for miles in the mountain, very narrow and steep, through shady lanes, groves, and vineyards (with magnificentviews), through Pianura to Pozzuoli, entering by the old Romanroad and Street of Tombs. The _columbaria_ in the Street of Tombsare the best worth seeing _ejus generis_ of any. Went to theTemple of Jupiter Serapis, of which there are very curiousremains. 

 Hard by the reverent ruins Of a once glorious temple, reared to Jove, Whose very rubbish (like the pitied fall Of virtue, most unfortunate) yet bears A deathless majesty, though now quite rased, Hurl'd down by wrath and lust of impious kings, So that where holy Flamens wont to sing Sweet hymns to Heaven, there the daw and crow, The ill-voiced raven, and still chattering pie Send out ungrateful sounds. MARSTON. 

To the ruins of the Amphitheatre, from the top of which there isone of the finest views I ever saw of the Bay of Baiae and theislands; and then to the Solfaterra. The ruins scattered aboutNaples (those at Pozzuoli, for instance) are far more extensivethan most of those at Rome, but partly 'carent quia vate sacro, 'and partly because there are no well-known names attached tothem, the ground is not so holy, and little is said or thoughtabout them. If these temples were at Rome, what an uproar theywould cause! The Solfaterra is remarkable as a sort of linkbetween the quick and the dead volcanoes; it is consideredextinct, but the earth is hot, the sulphur strong, and at aparticular spot, when a hole is made, it hisses and throws uplittle stones and ashes, and exhibits a sort of volcano inminiature, but the surface of the crater is overgrown withvegetation. The road to Naples by the convent of the Jesuits andChapel of St. Januarius is the most beautiful I ever saw, particularly towards sunset, when the colouring is so rich andvaried. It lies over a crest commanding a prospect of themountains on one side and the sea on the other. 

 Quid mille revolvam Culmina visendique vices. 

May 3rd, 1830 {p. 349}

We sailed across the Bay to Resina, to see Herculaneum, the oldand new excavations. At the new there are only seven or eight menat work; the old are hardly worth seeing. So much earth andcinders are mixed with the lava in the new part, that they mightexcavate largely if they would spend money enough; at presentthey have only excavated one or two houses, but have found somebronzes and marbles. The houses are laid open, just like those atPompeii. 

[Page Head: ASCENT OF VESUVIUS]

The next day Morier, Watson, and I set off to ascend Vesuvius; werode on donkeys from Salvatore's house to the bottom of the lastascent, which was rather less formidable than I expected, thoughfatiguing enough. Another party went up at the same time: one manof that party, Watson, and I walked up alone; the others were alllugged up. They take the bridles off the donkeys and put them onthe men; the luggee holds by this tackle and the guide goesbefore him. After infinite puffing and perspiring, and resting atevery big stone, I reached the top in thirty-five minutes. It wasvery provoking to see the facility with which the creatures whoattended us sprang up. There was one fellow with nothing on but ashirt and half a pair of breeches, who walked the whole way fromResina with a basket on his head full of wine, bread, andoranges, and while we were slipping, and clambering, and toilingwith immense difficulty he bounded up, with his basket on hishead, as straight as an arrow all the time, and bothering us todrink when we had not breath to answer. I took three or fouroranges, some bread, and a bottle of wine of him at the top, andwhen I asked Salvatore what I should pay him, he said two carlins(eightpence English). I gave him three (a shilling), and he wastransported. It was a magnificent evening, and the sunset fromthe top of Vesuvius (setting in the sea) a glorious sight--

 For the sun, Declined, was hastening now with prone career To the ocean's isles, and in th' ascending scale Of heaven the stars, that usher evening, rose. 

The view, too, all round is very grand; the towns round the Bayappear so clear, yet so minute. I had formed to myself a verydifferent idea of the crater, of which the dimensions are verydeceitful; it is so much larger than it appears. The bottom ofthe crater is flat, covered with masses of lava and sulphur, butanybody may walk all about it. At one end stands what looks likea little black hillock, from which smoke was rising, as it wasfrom various crevices in different parts; that little hillock isthe crater from which all eruptions burst. The mountain wasprovokingly still, and only gave one low grumble and a very smallemission of smoke and fire while we were there; it has never beenmore tranquil. The descent is very good fun, galloping down thecinders; you have only to take care not to tumble over thestones; slipping is impossible. The whole ascent of the mountainis interesting, particularly in that part which is like a greatocean of lava, and where the guides point out the courses of thedifferent eruptions, all of which may be distinctly traced. Wegot to the Hermitage just as it was dark; there was still a redtint round the western horizon, and the islands were dimlyshadowed out, while the course of the Bay was marked by athousand dancing lights. Salvatore has especial care of themountain under the orders of Government, to whom he is obliged tomake a daily report of its state, and he is as fond of it as anurse of a favourite child, or a trainer at Newmarket of his bestrace-horse, and delights in telling anecdotes of old eruptionsand phenomena, and of different travellers who have ascended it. 

Two years ago an English merchant here laid a bet of 200napoleons that he would go from Resina[2] to the top in an hourand a half. Salvatore went with him, and they did it in an hourand thirteen minutes. The Englishman rode relays of horses, butthe guide went the whole way on foot, and the best part of theascent had to drag up his companion He said it nearly killed him, and he did not recover from it for several weeks; he is 53 yearsold, but a very handsome man. He said, however, that the fatigueof this exploit was not so painful as what he went through incarrying the Duke of Buckingham to the top; he was carried up ina chair by twelve men, and the weight was so enormous that hisshoulder was afterwards swelled up nearly to his head. When theDuke got down he gave a great dinner (on the mountain), which hehad brought with him to celebrate the exploit. Salvatore saidthat he continues to write to many scientific men in variousparts of Europe when anything remarkable occurs in the mountain, and talked of Buckland, Playfair, and Davy. We got down to Resinaabout half-past nine, and at ten embarked again and sailed overto Castel-a-Mare, where we arrived at one o'clock. 

 [2] From Salvatore's house at Resina to the top of the mountain is seven miles; from the Hermitage to the top, 3-1/3. It is a mile and 200 feet from the bottom of the ascent (on foot) to the top, 800 feet from the point we first gain to the bottom of the crater; the inner crater (or black hill, as I call it) is 230 feet high and 180 feet in circumference. The miles are Neapolitan miles, about three-fourths of an English mile. 

The next morning Mr. Watson and I got a six-oared boat (withsails) and went to Sorrento. Castel-a-Mare and the whole coastare beautiful. Landed a mile from Sorrento, and walked by a pathcut in the rock to the Cocomella, a villa with a magnificentprospect of the Bay exactly opposite Naples. 

 Placido lunata recessu Hinc atque hinc curvas perrumpunt aequora rupes. Dat natura locum, montique intervenit imum Litus et in terras scopulis pendentibus exit. 

Then to the town to see the curiosities, which are the Piscine, Tasso's house, and some very romantic caverns in a wild dellunder the bridge at Sorrento; all very well worth seeing, butTasso's house was locked, so we could not get to the terrace. Just as we arrived at Sorrento we found they were performing aceremony which takes place there every year on the 1st of May, and there only--the benediction of the flowers, the ushering inthe may. 

 With songs and dance they celebrate the day, And with due honours usher in the may. 

It was in the Archiepiscopal church, which was gaily adorned withhangings of various colours, gold and silver and flowers, full ofpeople, all in their best attire. A priest in the pulpit oppositethe Archbishop's throne called on the representatives of thedifferent parishes (seven in number), who advanced in succession, each bearing a huge cross fifteen or twenty feet high, entirelymade of flowers, and adorned with garlands and devices, alllikewise of the most brilliant flowers, and, as each came up, alittle cannon was fired off. They were blessed in succession, andthen deposited around the throne of the Archbishop, who, afterthis ceremony was concluded, went up to the altar and celebratedHigh Mass. They told me that this festival had taken place atSorrento from the remotest time. 

After seeing the Piscine we went into a garden above, where therewas a profusion of orange and lemon trees, loaded with ripefruit; the oranges we pulled off the trees and ate; they wereexcellent, and as red as Morella cherries--

 Whose fruit, burnished with golden rind, Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true, If true, here only, of delicious taste. 

We could not stay long at Sorrento, and were four hours rowingacross the Bay to Naples. Dined with Hill at the Villa Belvidere(a delicious villa on the Vomero), with a large, tiresome party, principally English. 

[Page Head: THE BLOOD OF SAN GENNARO]

Yesterday the miracle of the blood of San Gennaro was performed, and of course successfully; it will be repeated every morning foreight days. I went to-day to the Cathedral, where San Gennaro'ssilver bust was standing on one side of the altar, surrounded bylights, and the vessel containing the blood on the other. Roundthe altar were ranged silver heads of various saints, hisparticular friends, who had accompanied him there to do himhonour, and who will be taken this evening with him in processionto his own chapel. Acton and I went together, and one of thepeople belonging to the church seeing us come in, and judgingthat we wanted to see the blood, summoned one of the canons, whowas half asleep in a stall, who brought out the blood, which iscontained in a glass vase mounted with silver. It liquefies inthe morning, remains in that state all day, and congeals again atnight. A great many people were waiting to kiss the vessel, whichwas handed to us first. We kissed it, and then it went round, each person kissing it and touching it with his head, as they doSt. Peter's foot at Rome. San Gennaro and his silver companionswere brought in procession from one of the other churches, allthe nobility and an immense crowd attending. I had fancied thatthe French had exposed and put an end to this juggle, but not atall. They found the people so attached to the superstition thatthey patronised it; they adorned the Chapel of St. Januarius witha magnificent altarpiece and other presents. The first time(after they came to Naples) that the miracle was to be performedthe blood would not liquefy, which produced a great ferment amongthe people. It was a trick of the priests to throw odium on theFrench, and the French General Championnet thought it so seriousthat he sent word that if the blood did not liquefy forthwith thepriests should go to the galleys. It liquefied immediately, andthe people were satisfied. Acton told me that nobody believed itbut the common people, but that they did not dare to leave itoff. It is what is called a false position to be in, when theyare obliged to go on pretending to perform a miracle in which nomen of sense and education believe, and in which it is well knownthey don't any of them believe themselves. Miracles, if sometimesuseful and profitable, are sometimes awkward incumbrances. Droveround the obscure parts of the town, and through dense masses ofpopulation, by the old palace of Queen Joan and the market place, which was the scene of Masaniello's sedition. He was killed inthe great church (in 1646). 

May 4th, 1830 {p. 354}

To the Museum, and saw the mummies which have been unrolled; theyare like thin, black, shrivelled corpses; hair and shape of faceperfect, even the eyelids. The canvas fold in which they arewrapped quite fresh-looking; the best preserved is 3, 055 yearsold. Amongst the bronzes there is a bust of Livia with a wig. Dined with Toledo, the Spanish Minister. The women put theirknives into their mouths, and he is always kissing his wife'shand--an ugly little old woman. Toledo was Romana's aide-de-camp. 

May 5th, 1830 {p. 354}

To Cumae, and dined at the Lake of Fusaro with the Talbots andLushingtons; not a pretty lake, but the country near it prettyenough. A splendid sunset, with real purple. 'Lumine vestitpurpureo. '

[Page Head: THE BLOOD OF SAN GENNARO]

May 7th, 1830 {p. 355}

In the morning to the Chapel of St. Januarius, to see the bloodliquefy. The grand ceremony was last Saturday at the Cathedral, but the miracle is repeated every morning in the Chapel for eightdays. I never saw such a scene, at once so ludicrous and sodisgusting, but more of the latter. There was the saint, allbedizened with pearls, on the altar, the other silver ladies andgentlemen all round the chapel, with an abundance of tapersburning before them. Certain people were admitted within therails of the altar; the crowd, consisting chiefly of women, andmost of them old women, were without. There is no service, butthe priests keep muttering and looking at the blood to see if itis melting. To-day it was unusually long, so these old Sibylskept clamouring, 'Santa Trinità!' 'Santa Vergine!' 'Dioonnipotente!' 'San Gennaro!' in loud and discordant chorus; stillthe blood was obstinate, [3] so the priest ordered them to go downon their knees and to say the Athanasian Creed, which is one ofthe specifics resorted to in such a case. He drawled it out withhis eyes shut, and the women screamed the responses. This wouldnot do, so they fell to abuse and entreaties with a vehemence andvolubility, and a shrill clamour, which was at once a proof oftheir sincerity and their folly. Such noise, such gesticulations. One woman I never shall forget, with outstretched arm, distortedvisage, and voice of piercing sharpness. In the meantime thepriest handed about the phial to be kissed, and talked the matterover with the bystanders. 'È sempre duro?' 'Sempre duro, adessov' è una piccola cosa. ' At last, after all the handling, praying, kissing, screaming, entreating, and abusing, the blood didmelt, [4] when the organ struck up, they all sang in chorus, andso it ended. It struck me as particularly disgusting, thoughafter all it is not fair to abuse these poor people, who have allbeen brought up in the belief of the miracle, and who fancy thatthe prosperity of their city and all that it contains is somehowconnected with its due performance. The priests could notdiscontinue it but by acknowledging the imposture, and by animaginative people, who are the slaves of prejudice, and attachedto it by force of inveterate habit, the acknowledgment would notbe believed, and they would only incur odium by it; there it is, and (for some time at least) it must go on. 

 [3] I dined at Hill's; sat next to the Duchess de Dalberg, talked of the miracle, which she told me she firmly believed. I fancied none believed it but the lowest of the people, and was (very foolishly) astonished; for what ought ever to produce astonishment which has to do with credulity in matters of religion?

 [4] Illarum lacrymae meditataque murmura praestant, -- Juvenal, 6. 

Went up to Craven's villa (this is the villa at which the amourbetween the present Queen of Naples and Captain Hess was carriedon), and sat there doing nothing in the middle of flowers, andsea breezes, and beautiful views. To comprehend all the luxury ofthe _bel far niente_ one must come to Naples, where idlenessloses half its evil by losing all its enervating qualities; thereis something in the air so elastic that I have never been at anyplace where I have felt as if I could make exertions so easily ashere, and yet it is a great pleasure to sit and look at the Bay, the mountains, the islands, and the town, and watch its amusinginhabitants. At least half an hour of every morning is spent atmy window, while I am dressing, watching the lazaroni, who fish, work, swim, dress, cook, play, and quarrel under it. At thismoment the scene is as follows:--Half a dozen boats with awningsand flags moored off the landing-place, a few fishing-boats withmen mending their nets, three fellows swimming about them, twowith red caps on perched upon the wall playing at cards, two orthree more looking on, one on the ground being shaved by a barberwith a basin (the exact counterpart of Mambrino's helmet), andtwo or three more waiting their turn for the same operation--always a certain number lounging about, others smoking or asleep. 

[Page Head: ASTRONI]

May 8th, 1830 {p. 355}

Rode with a large party to Astroni, where they dined, but I didnot. There were the Lushingtons, Prince and Princess Dentici (heis at the head of the Douane), Madame and Mademoiselle Galiati(she is remarkably pretty), Count (I believe) and CountessRivalvia, her uncle, Lord A. Chichester, Count Gregorio, and aMr. Stuart. The park, or whatever it is called--for it is theKing's chase and full of wild boars--is one of the most beautifuland curious places about Naples. Milton's description of theapproach to Eden applies exactly to Astroni; if ever he saw it itis likely that he meant to describe it--

 To the border comes Of Eden, where delicious Paradise, Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green, As with a rural mound, the champaign head Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides, With thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild, Access denied; and overhead up grew Insuperable height of loftiest shade, A sylvan scene, and as the ranks ascend Shade above shade, a woody theatre Of stateliest view. 

It is an immense crater of a volcano, the amphitheatre quiteunbroken, and larger than that of Vesuvius, but covered withwood, and the bottom with very fine trees of various sorts andwith fern--very wild and picturesque. There are several littlehillocks, supposed to have been small craters; but although it isproved that this was a volcano from the lava under the soil andfrom its shape, there is no mention of it as an active volcano, and nobody can tell how many thousand years ago it was inoperation. The King, with his usual good taste, is cutting downthe finest trees, and has made a ride round the bottom, which hehas planted with poplars in a double row, spoiling as much as hecan all the beauty of the place. They dined in a shady arbour, made on purpose with branches of trees bound together, and onbeds of fern, were very merry, pelting each other with orangesand cherries, and dealing about an abundance of manual jests. 

_Evening. _--I have taken my last ride and last look at Naples, and am surprised at the sorrow I feel at quitting it, as I fear, for ever. Rode again to Astroni with Morier, and walked throughthe wood and tried to scale one of the sides of the mountain, butlost the path, and could only get half-way up; it is the mostbeautiful place about Naples. Came back by the Strada Nuova, andsaw for the last time that delicious Bay with its coast and itsislands, which are as deeply imprinted on my memory as if I hadpassed my life among them. To-night I have stood once more by theshore, and could almost have cried to think I should never see itagain--

 The smooth, surface of this summer sea--

nor breathe this delicious air, nor feast my eyes on the scene ofgaiety, and brilliancy, and beauty around me. Nobody can form anidea of Naples without coming to it; every gale seems to bringhealth and cheerfulness with it, and appears 'able to drive allsadness but despair. '

Naples, they tell me, does very well for a short time, but youwill soon grow tired of it. To be sure, I have been here onlythree weeks, but I liked it better every day, and I am wretchedat leaving it. What could I ever mean by thinking it was not gay, and less lively than Genoa? To-night, as I came home from riding, the shore was covered with lazaroni and throngs of people, dancing, singing, harping, fiddling--all so merry, and as if theopen air and their own elastic spirits were happiness enough. Isuppose I shall never come again, for when I have measured backthe distance to my own foggy country, there I shall settle forever, and Naples and her sunny shores and balmy winds will onlybe as a short and delightful dream, from which I have waked toosoon. 

 CHAPTER X. 

Mola di Gaeta--Capua--Lines on leaving Naples--Return to Rome-- The Aqueducts--'Domine, quo vadis?'--St. Peter's--The Scala Santa--Reasons in favour of San Gennaro--Ascent of St. Peter's--Library of the Vatican--A racing _ex voto_--Illness of George IV. --Approaching _Coup d'état_ in France--The Villa Mills--The Malaria--Duc and Duchesse de Dalberg--The Emperor Nicholas on his Accession--Cardinal Albani--A _Columbarium_-- Maii--Sir William Gell--Tivoli--Hadrian's Villa--The Adventures of Miss Kelly and Mr. Swift--Audience of the Pope--Gibson's Studio--End of Miss Kelly's Marriage--A great Function--The Jesuits--Saint-making--San Lorenzo in Lucina--The Flagellants-- Statues by Torchlight--Bunsen on the State of Rome--Fiascati-- Relations of Protestant States with Rome--The French Ministry-- M. De Villèle--The Coliseum--Excommunication of a Thief--The Passionists--The Corpus Domini--A Rash Marriage--Farewell to Rome--Falls of Terni--Statue at Pratolino--Bologna-- Mezzofanti--Ferrara--Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Brescia--Verona-- Milan--Lago Maggiore--The Simplon--Geneva--Paris. 

Mola di Gaeta, May 9th, 1830 {p. 359}

I have dined here on an open terrace (looking over the garden andthe delicious Bay), where I have been sitting writing the wholeevening. The moon is just rising, and throwing a flood of silverover the sea--

 Rising in cloudless majesty, Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw. 

We left Naples at half-past seven in the morning, went toCaserta, and walked over the palace, in which nothing struck mebut the dimensions, the staircase, and a few of the rooms. Thetheatre is very well contrived; it is at one end of the palace, and the back of it opens by large folding doors into the garden, so that they can have any depth of stage they please, and arrangeany pageants or cavalcades. This could, however, only be at atheatre in a country house. Thence to Capua, and went over theAmphitheatre, which is very remarkable. It is said to be largerthan the Coliseum, but the arena did not appear to me so vast. Here we are in the land of names again, and it is impossible forthe imagination not to run over the grandeur, luxury, and fate ofCapua, for on the very spot on which I was standing (for thechief places are ascertained) in all probability Hannibal oftensat to see the games. [1]

 [1] No such thing. _His_ Capua was nearly destroyed, and if it had an amphitheatre it would have been ruined. These ruins must have belonged to Capua the Second, which was restored by Augustus or Tiberius, and became as flourishing and populous as the first had been. -- [C. C. G. ]

The Italian postilions, it must be owned, are a comical set. Theysometimes go faster than ever I went in England, then at othersthey creep like snails, and stop at the least inclined plane toput on the _scarpa_. The occasions they generally select forgoing fast are when they have six horses harnessed to thecarriage, and so extend about ten yards, on slippery pavement, through very narrow streets, extremely crowded with women andchildren; then they will flog their horses to full speed, andclatter along without fear or shame. Nothing happens; I haveremarked that nothing ever does anywhere in Italy. 

I have walked over this garden [at Gaeta], which contains remainsof one of Cicero's villas, but they are only arched rooms likevaults, and not worth seeing but for the name of Cicero, and therecollection that he was murdered almost on this spot. He hadgood taste in his villas, for this bay is as placid and deliciousas that of Baiae. There is an ancient bath, which probablybelonged to the villa; it is in the sea, and still available, when cleaned out, which just now it is not. 

[Page Head: LINES ON LEAVING NAPLES]

Rome, May 10th, 1830 {p. 360}

Left Mola at half-past seven and got here at ten minutes afterseven. It was so kind as to rain last night and this morning, andlay the dust all the way. Stopped at Terracina, and went to seethe ancient port, which is worth seeing. The road is pretty allthe way, but the scenery in Italy wants verdure and foliage. Thebeauty of these landscapes consists in the bold outlines, loftymountains, abundant vegetation, and bright atmosphere, and theyare always better to look at from a little distance than verynear. Aricia is pretty well wooded. I found a parcel of letterswith the London news; but the post is enough to drive one mad, for I got one of the 23rd of April and another of the 19th ofMarch on the same day. 

 _ON TAKING LEAVE OF NAPLES. _ (Written in a carriage between Naples and Mola di Gaeta. ) '_Nascitur poeta. _'

 Though not a spark of true poetic fire Beamed at my birth, or on my cradle fell, Though rude my numbers, and untuned my lyre, I will not leave thee with a mute farewell. 

 I cannot see recede thy sunny shore, Nor ling'ring look my last upon thy bay, And know that they will meet my gaze no more, Yet tearless take my unreturning way. 

 'Tis not that Love laments his broken toys, Nor is it Friendship murmurs to depart, Touching the chords of recollected joys Which ring with sad vibration on the heart. 

 Nor bound am I in Habit's unfelt chain, Which o'er the fancy steals with gradual pow'r, Till local sympathy awakes in pain, That slept unconscious till the parting hour. 

 But 'tis the charm, so great, yet undefin'd, That Nature's self around fair Naples throws, Which now excites and elevates the mind, And now invites it to no dull repose. 

 No exhalations damp the spirits choke, That feed on ether temp'rate and serene; No yellow fogs, or murky clouds of smoke, Obscure the lustre of this joyous scene. 

 The God of Gladness with prolific ray Bids the rich soil its teeming womb expand, While healthful breezes, cooled with Ocean's spray, Scatter a dewy freshness o'er the land. 

 No mountain billow's huge uplifted crest Lashes the foaming beach with sullen roar; The smooth sea sparkles in unbroken rest, Or lightly rakes upon the pebbled shore. 

 The Ocean's Monarch on these golden sands Seems the luxurious laws of Love to own, [2] And yield his trident to Thalassia's hands, To rule the waters from the Baian throne. 

 Here the green olive, and the purple vine, The lofty poplar and the elm espouse, Or round the mulberry their tendrils twine, Or creep in clusters through the ilex boughs. 

 A thousand flow'rs, enamelling the fields, Declare the presence of returning spring; A various harvest smiling Ceres yields, And all the groves with vocal music sing. 

 Earth, air, and sea th' enchantment of the clime, Revived that young elation of the breast When Hope, undaunted, saw the form of Time In Fancy's gay, deluding colours drest, And though those visions are for ever fled Which in the morning of existence rose, And all the false and flatt'ring hopes are dead That vainly promised a serener close. 

 I'll snatch the joys which spite of fate remain To cheer life's darkness with a transient ray, And oft in vivid fancy roam again Through these blest regions when I'm far away. 

 [2] The Temple of Venus stands upon the shore of the Bay of Baiae. 

[Page Head: THE AQUEDUCTS]

Rome, May 13th, 1830 {p. 362}

_11th. _--Walked about visiting to announce my return, and foundnobody at home. Hired a horse and rode with Lovaine till neareight o'clock; rode by the Via Sacra two or three miles along theStreet of Tombs--very interesting and curious--and then cutacross to the ruin of an old villa, where an apartment flooredwith marble has lately been discovered, evidently a bath, and avery large one; on to Torlonia's _scavo_ and under the arches ofthe Claudian aqueduct. Nothing at Rome delights and astonishesme more than the aqueducts, the way they stretch over theCampagna--[3]

 As some earth-born giants spread Their mighty arms along th' indented mead. 

And when you approach them how admirable are their vastness andsolidity--each arch in itself a fabric, and the whole sovenerable and beautiful. After all my delight at Naples Iinfinitely prefer Rome; there is a tranquil magnificence andrepose about Rome, and an indefinable pleasure in the atmosphere, the colouring, and the ruins, which are better felt thandescribed. We lingered about the aqueducts till dark, but thereis hardly any twilight here; the sun sets, and in half an hour itis night. Almost everybody is gone or going, but the heat can'thave driven them away, for it is perfectly cool. 

 [3] The Claudian aqueduct, which is the grandest, and whose enormous remains form the great ornament of the Campagna, was begun by Caligula, and finished by Claudius. The structure of the arches is exactly like those of the Coliseum. The first aqueduct was built by Appius Caecus, the censor, the same who laid down the Via Appia, 310 B. C. 

As we set out on our ride we passed a little church called'Domine, quo vadis?' which was built on this occasion:--St. Peterwas escaping from Rome (he was a great coward, that PrincepsApostolorum), and at this spot he met Christ, and said to him, 'Domine, quo vadis?' 'Why, ' replied our Saviour, 'I am going tobe crucified over again, for you are running away, and won't stayto do my business here;' on which St. Peter returned to suffer inhis own person, and the church was built in commemoration of theevent. The Saint has no reason to be flattered at the characterwhich is given of him by the pious editors of his Epistles. 'Confidence and zeal form a conspicuous part of his character, but he was sometimes deficient in firmness and resolution. He hadthe faith to walk upon the water, but when the sea grewboisterous his faith deserted him and he became afraid. He wasforward to acknowledge Jesus to be the Messiah, and declaredhimself ready to die in that profession, and yet soon after hethrice denied, and with oaths, that he knew anything of Jesus. The warmth of his temper led him to cut off the ear of the HighPriest's servant, and by his timidity and dissimulationrespecting the Gentile converts at Antioch he incurred thecensure of the eager and resolute St. Paul. '

[Page Head: MODERN MIRACLES]

We returned through the Porta di San Giovanni, and by the ScalaSanta. There are three flights of steps; those in the middle arecovered with wood (that the marble may not be worn out), andthese are the holy steps; the other two are for the pious to walkdown. I had no idea anybody ever went up on their knees, though Iwas aware they were not allowed to go up on their feet, and withno small surprise saw several devout females in the performanceof this ceremony. They walk up the vestibule, drop upon theirknees, rise and walk over the landing-place, carefully tuck uptheir gowns, drop again, and then up they toil in the most absurdand ridiculous postures imaginable. 

 Weak in their limbs, but in devotion strong, On their bare hands and feet they crawl along. DRYDEN, _Juv. _ 6. 

I suppose there is some spiritual advantage derivable from theaction, but I don't know what. Why, however, I should besurprised I can't tell, after all I have seen here. Madame deDalberg came to my recollection, and San Gennaro; she had ownedto me that she believed in the miracle, and we had a long disputeabout it, though I have since thought that I am wrong to regardher credulity with such pity and contempt. The case admits of anargument, though not that which she made use of. Many people areright in what they do, but without knowing why; some wrong, withvery fair reasons. She, however, is wrong both ways, but she hadbeen brought up in principles of strong religious belief, and shebelongs to a church which teaches that miracles have never ceasedfrom the days of the Apostles till now. Those who believe that amiracle ever was performed cannot doubt that another _may_ beperformed now; the only question is as to the fact. _We_ believethat miracles ceased with the Apostles, and we pronounce all thatare alleged to have happened since to be fictitious. Believing asshe does that miracles have continually occurred, it is morereasonable to believe in the reality of one she sees herself thanin those which are reported by others. She sees this done; it is, then, a miracle or it is an imposture; but it is declared to be amiracle by a whole body of men, who must know whether it be so ornot, and to whom she has been accustomed to look up with respectand confidence, and who have always been deemed worthy of belief. What is it, then, she believes? The evidence of her own senses, and the testimony of a number of men, and a succession of them, who are competent witnesses, and whose characters are for themost part unblemished, in her opinion certainly. The objectionthat it is improbable, and that no sufficient reason is assignedfor its performance, is quite inadmissible, as all considerationsof reason are in matters of revelation. 

 And when the event only is revealed, it is not for men to dogmatise about the mode or means of its accomplishment, for God's ways are not as our ways, nor His thoughts as our thoughts, and His purposes may be wrought out in a manner that we wot not. --KEITH. 

There is nothing of which we are so continually reminded as thatwe must not pretend to judge of the reasonableness and fitness ofthe Divine dispensations, and there may therefore be good causefor the San Gennaro affair, though we cannot fathom it. Still, asthe generality of people of education have given it up, onewonders at the orthodox few whose belief lingers on. There areother bloods that liquefy in various places besides SanGennaro's. 

_12th. _--Walked to Santa Agnese, in the Piazza Navona, a prettychurch, but hardly anybody in it; to Santa Maria sopra Minerva, empty likewise, but Michael Angelo's Christ was there--a grandperformance, though defective about the legs, which are toothick; he has one golden foot for the devotees, who were wearingout the marble toe, and would soon have had it as smooth as thatof Jupiter's in St. Peter's; _ci-devant_ Jupiter, now St. Peter. 

I went again to the Pantheon, and walked round and round, andlooked, and admired; even the ragged wretches who came in seemedstruck with admiration. It is so fine to see the clouds rollingabove through the roof; it passes my comprehension how thistemple escaped the general wreck of Rome. Then to St. Peter's, and went up to the roof and to the ball, through the aperture ofwhich I could just squeeze, though there is plenty of room whenonce in it. The ball holds above thirty people, stuffed close ofcourse. Three other men were going up at the same time, whofilled the narrow ascent with garlicky effluvia. It is impossibleto have an idea of the size and grandeur of St. Peter's withoutgoing over the roof, and examining all the details, and lookingdown from the galleries. The ascent is very easy; there areslabs at the bottom taken from the holy gates, as they weresuccessively opened and closed by the different Popes at theJubilees. [4] At the top were recorded the ascents of variouskings and princes and princesses, who had clambered up; there wasalso an inscription in Latin and Italian, the very counterpart ofthat which is still seen on the wall in Titus's Baths, onlyinstead of 'Jovem omnipotentem atque omnes Deos iratos habeat, '&c. &c. , it runs, 'Iratos habeat Deum omnipotentem et ApostolosPetrum et Paulum, ' though I don't see why Paul should care aboutit. Went afterwards and walked on the Pincian. 

 [4] The Jubilee was established by Boniface VIII. In 1300, and was originally a centenary commemoration, but reduced to fifty years, and afterwards to twenty-five, as it still continues. Hallam remarks that the Court of Rome at the next Jubilee will read with a sigh the description of that of 1300. 'The Pope received an incalculable sum of money, for two priests stood day and night at the altar of St. Peter, with rakes in their hands, raking up the heaps of money. '--MURATORI. 

This morning went with the Lovaines and Monsignore Spada to seethe library of the Vatican, which was to have been shown us byMonsignore Maii, the librarian, but he was engaged elsewhere anddid not come. These galleries are most beautiful, vast, andmagnificent, and the painting of the old part interesting andcurious, but that which was done by Pius VI. And Pius VII. Hasdeformed the walls with such trash as I never beheld; theypresent various scenes of the misfortunes of these two Popes, andcertain passages in their lives. The principal manuscripts we sawwere a history of Federigo di Felto, Duke of Urbino, and nephewof Julius II. , beautifully illuminated by Julio Clovio, a scholarof Giulio Romano. I never saw anything more exquisite than thesepaintings. Amongst the most curious of the literary treasures wesaw are a manuscript of some of St. Augustine's works, writtenupon a palimpsest of Cicero's 'De Republicâ;' this treatise wasbrought to light by Maii; the old Latin was as nearly erased aspossible, but by the application of gall it has been brought outfaintly, but enough to be made out, and completely read: HenryVIII. 's love-letters to Anne Boleyn, in French and English:Henry's reply to Luther, the presentation copy to the Pope(Clement VII. ), signed by him twice at the end, in English at theend of the book, in Latin at the dedication, which is alsowritten by his own hand, only a line; the pictures representingSt. Peter's in different stages of the work are very curious. Inthe print room there is a celestial globe painted by JulioRomano. 

[Page Head: A RACING VOW]

Just before I went to the Vatican I read in 'Galignani' theagreeable intelligence that my mare Lady Emily had beat Clotildeat Newmarket, which I attribute entirely to my _ex voto_ of asilver horse-shoe, which I vowed, before I went to Naples, to theVirgin of the Pantheon in case I won the match; and, as I amresolved to be as good as my word, I have ordered the horse-shoe, which is to be sent on Monday, and as soon as it arrives it shallbe suspended amongst all the arms, and legs, and broken gigs, andheads, and silver hearts, and locks of hair. 

Everybody here is in great alarm about the King (George IV. ), whoI have no doubt is very ill. I am afraid he will die before I gethome, and I should like to be in at the death and see all theproceedings of a new reign; but, now I am here, I must stay outmy time, let what will happen. I shall probably never see Romeagain, and 'according to the law of probability, so true ingeneral, so false in particular, ' I have a good chance of seeingat least one more King leave us. 

May 15th, 1830 {p. 368}

I rode with Lord Haddington to the Villa Mellini last evening ona confounded high-going old hunter of Lord Lynedoch's, which hegave to William Russell. On my return found Henry de Ros justarrived, having been stopped at Aquapendente and Viterbo for wantof a _lascia passare. _

This morning I have been dragging him about the town till he washalf dead. The three last days have been the hottest to whichRome is subject--not much sun, no wind, but an air like an oven. The only cool place is St. Peter's, that is delicious. It is thecoolest place in summer and the warmest in winter. We went to St. Peter's, Coliseum, gallery of the Vatican, Villa Albani, andVilla Borghese. The Villa Albani I had not seen before; it is agood specimen of a Roman villa, full of fine things (the finestof which is the Antinous), but very ill kept up. The Cardinal hasnot set his foot in it for a year and a half; there is one walkof ilexes perfectly shady, but all the rest is exposed to thesun. The post brought very bad accounts of the King, who iscertainly dying. I have no notion that he will live till I gethome, but they tell me there will be no changes. Gagarin told melast night that Lieven is to be governor to the Emperor ofRussia's eldest son, that for the present he will retain thetitle of Ambassador, and that Matuscewitz will be Chargéd'Affaires in London. 

[Page Head: APPROACHING COUP D'ETAT IN FRANCE]

May 18th, 1830 {p. 368}

Again dragging Henry de Ros about, who likes to see sights, butis not strong enough to undergo fatigue. Yesterday I called on M. De la Ferronays, and had a long conversation about Frenchpolitics; he is greatly alarmed at the state of affairs inFrance, and told me that he had said everything he could to theKing to dissuade him from changing his Ministry and trying a_coup d'état_, that the King has always been in his heart averseto a Constitution, and has now got it into his head that there isa settled design to subvert the royal authority, in which idea heis confirmed by those about him, 'son petit entourage. ' Heanticipates nothing but disaster to the King and disorder in thecountry from these violent measures, and says that France wasincreasing in prosperity, averse to change, satisfied with itsGovernment and Constitution, and only desirous of certainameliorations in the internal administration of the country, andof preserving inviolate the institutions it had obtained. Hethinks the success of the expedition to Algiers, if it shouldsucceed, will have no effect in strengthening the hands ofPolignac; says they committed a capital fault in the beginning byproroguing the Chambers upon their making that violent Address inanswer to the Speech, that they should immediately have proceededto propose the enactment of those laws of which the countrystands in need, when if the Chamber had agreed to them theMinistry would have appeared to have a majority, and wouldthereby gain moral strength; and if they had been rejected, theKing would have had a fine opportunity of appealing to thenation, and saying that as long as they had attacked himpersonally he had passed it by, but as they opposed all thoseameliorations which the state of France required, his peoplemight judge between him and them, and that this would at leasthave given him a chance of success and brought many moderatepeople to his side. He added that he had also said the same thingto Polignac, but without success, that he is totally ignorant ofFrance and will listen to nobody. I told him that Henry de Roshad been at Lyons when the Dauphin came, and how ill he wasreceived by the townspeople and the troops, at which he did notseem at all surprised, though sorry. 

Went to Santa Maria in Trastevere to-day, the Farnese Palace, theFarnesina and Spada, Portico d'Ottavia and Mausoleo d'Augusto;this last not worth seeing at all. The last time I was at theSpada I did not see the pictures, some of which are very good, particularly a Judith by Guido, and a Dido by Guercino, which isdamaged, but beautiful. Then to Santa Maria Maggiore and St. JohnLateran, and a ride over the Campagna to the Claudian aqueductand Torlonia's _scavo_. 

May 20th, 1830 {p. 370}

I breakfasted with Mills at his villa on the Palatine; Madame deMenon, Henry Cheney, Fox, and the Portuguese Charge d'Affaires;very agreeable: his villa charming; it formerly belonged toJulius II. , and one room is painted in fresco by Raphael and hisscholars, as they say. 

The Portuguese is Donna Maria's officer. The relations of theHoly See with Portugal are rather anomalous, but sensible. The Pope says he has nothing to do with politics, does notacknowledge Don Miguel, but as he is _de facto_ ruler ofPortugal, he must for the good of the Church (whose interests arenot to be abandoned for any temporal considerations) transactbusiness with him, and so he does. This Envoy is very sanguine asto the ultimate success of the Queen's cause. 

Went to the Orti Farnesiani and to Livia's Baths, where there isstill some painting and gilding to be seen. Then to the Capitol;saw the pictures and statues (again), and called on Bunsen, whotold me a colossal head of Commodus could not be Commodus (whichstands in the court of the Capitol); he won't allow anything isanything. He is full of politics, and thinks the French will getrid of their domestic difficulties by colonising Africa, and doesnot see why they should not as well as the Romans; but he seems abetter antiquary than politician. 

Some pictures in the Capitol are very fine--Domenichino's Sybiland Santa Barbara, Guercino's Santa Petronella (copied in mosaicin St. Peter's) and Cleopatra and Antony. There are severalunfinished Guidos, some only just begun. They say he played, andwhen he lost and could not pay, painted a picture; so these arethe produce of bad nights, and their progress perhaps arrested bybetter. 

To the Borghese Villa. At present I think Chiswick better thanany villa here, but they tell me when I get home and see Chiswickand remember these I shall think differently. 

[Page Head: MALARIA]

May 22nd, 1830

Found it absolutely necessary to adopt Roman customs and dineearly and go out after dinner; one must dine at four or at nine. Went to Raphael's house, which is painted by his scholars, andone room by himself; a very pretty villa, uninhabited, andbelongs to an old man and an old woman, who will neither live init nor let it. Though close to the Villa Borghese, which isoccupied by the malaria, this villa is quite free from it. Themalaria is inexplicable. If it was 'palpable to sight as tofeeling, ' it would be like a fog which reaches so far and nofarther. Here are ague and salubrity, cheek by jowl. To thePamfili Doria, a bad house with a magnificent view all roundRome; fine garden in the regular clipped style, but very shady, and the stone pines the finest here; this garden is well kept. Malaria again; Rome is blockaded by malaria, and some day willsurrender to it altogether; as it is, it is melancholy to see allthese deserted villas and palaces, scarcely one of which isinhabited or decently kept. I don't know one palace or villawhich is lived in as we should live in England; the BorgheseVilla is the only one which is really well kept, but PrinceBorghese has £70, 000 a year; he lives at Florence and never comeshere, but keeps collecting and filling his villa. The othermorning the ground here was in many parts covered by a thin redpowder, which was known to come from an eruption, and everybodythought it was Vesuvius, and so travellers reported, but it turnsout to be from Etna or Stromboli. Naples was covered with it, andthe sun obscured, but it is much nearer. Rome must be 300 or 400miles from Etna. 

May 23rd, 1830 {p. 371}

Went to three churches--Nuova, San Giovanni del Fiorentini, SanAgostino; in this latter is Raphael's fresco of the prophetIsaiah, in the style of M. Angelo, but it did not particularlystrike me. There is a remarkable Madonna here, a great favourite;her shrine is quite illuminated with lamps and candles, andadorned with offerings which cover the columns on each side ofthe church. Numerous devotees were kissing her gilt foot, and theVirgin and Child were decked with earrings, bracelets, and jewelsand gold in every shape; the Child, which is of a tawny marble, looked like some favourite little 'nigger, ' so bedizened was hewith finery. She is a much more popular Madonna than my friend ofthe Pantheon, to whom I went, as in honour bound, and hung up myhorse-shoe by a purple riband (my racing colour) round one of thecandlesticks on the altar, with this inscription--C. C. G. , P. G. R. N. A. 27, 1830. [5]

 [5] [These letters appear to stand for the following votive inscription: 'Charles Cavendish Greville. _Pro gratias receptas nuper. _ April 27, 1830. ']

Took H. De Ros to see the Cenci and the skeleton friars, notexactly birds of a feather; was obliged to squabble with the monkto get a sight of my old friends the skeletons, who at last letus in, but would not take any money, which I thought monks neverrefused, but my _laquais de place_ said, 'Lo conosco bene, c'èmolto superbo. ' Rode along the Via Appia and to Maxentius'sCircus. 

[Page Head: ACCESSION OF THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS]

May 24th, 1830 {p. 372}

Called on Sir William Gell at his eggshell of a house and prettygarden, which he planted himself ten years ago, and calls it theBoschetto Gellio. He was very agreeable, with stories of Pompeii, old walls, and ruined cities, besides having a great deal to sayon living objects and passing events. 

Dined with M. De la Ferronays--a great party--and was desired tohand out Madame la Comtesse de Maistre, wife to the Comte Xavierde Maistre, author of the 'Voyage autour de ma Chambre' and'Le Lépreux, ' to which works I gave a prodigious number ofcompliments. The Dalbergs and Aldobrandinis dined there, and someFrench whom I did not know. The Duc de Dalberg and his wife are aperpetual source of amusement to me, she with her devotion andbelieving everything, he with his air _moqueur_ and believingnothing; she so merry, he so shrewd, and so they squabbleabout religion. 'Qui est cet homme?' I said to him when aludicrous-looking abbé, broader than he was long, came into theroom. 'Que sais-je? quelque magot. ' 'Ah, je m'en vais dire cela àla Duchesse. ' 'Ah, mon cher, n'allez pas me brouiller avec mafamille. '

He had been talking to me about La Ferronays the day before, andsaid he was a sensible, right-headed man, 'mais diablementrusse;' and last night La Ferronays gave us an account of therevolt of the Guards on the Emperor Nicholas's accession, ofwhich he had been a witness--of the Emperor's firmness andhis subsequent conversations with him, all which was veryinteresting, and he recounted it with great energy. He saidthat the day after the affair of the Guards all the _CorpsDiplomatique_ had gone to him, that he had addressed them in anadmirable discourse and with a firm and placid countenance. Hetold them that they had witnessed what had passed, and he had nodoubt would give a faithful relation of it to their severalCourts; that on dismissing them, he had taken him (La Ferronays)into his closet, when he burst into tears and said, 'You havejust seen me act the part of Emperor; you must now witness thefeelings of the man. I speak to you as to my best friend, fromwhom I conceal nothing. ' He went on to say that he was the mostmiserable of men, forced upon a throne which he had no desire tomount, having been no party to the abdication of his brother, andplaced in the beginning of his reign in a position the mostpainful, irksome, and difficult; but that though he had neversought this elevation, now that he had taken it on himself hewould maintain and defend it. When La Ferronays had done, 'L'entendez-vous?' said Dalberg. 'Comme il parle avec goût; celalui est personnel. L'Empereur ne lui a pas dit la moitié de toutcela. '

La Ferronays introduced me to Cardinal Albani, telling him I hadbrought him a letter from Madame Craufurd, which I did, and leftit when I was here before. He thought I was just come, and askedfor the letter, which I told his Eminence he had alreadyreceived. He had, however, forgotten all about me, my letter, andold Craaf. We had a long conversation about the Catholicquestion, the Duke's duel with Lord Winchelsea (which he hadevidently never heard of), the King's illness, &c. He is like avery ancient red-legged macaw, but I suppose he is a dandy amongthe cardinals, for he wears two stars and two watches. I askedhim to procure me an audience of the Pope, which he promised todo. Escaped at last from the furnace his room was, and went toair in the streets; came home early and went to bed. This morninggot up at half-past six, and went to look out for some _columbaria_I had heard of out of the Porta Pia, and near Santa Agnese. Thedrones at Santa Agnese knew nothing about them, but I met LaFerronays riding as I was returning in despair, and he showed methe way to them. They have been discovered about six years, andare in a garden. The excavation may be fifteen feet by abouteight or nine, more or less, and is full of broken urns andinscriptions, some of which are very good indeed. One is upon C. Cargilius Pedagogus:--

 Vixi quandiu potui, sine lite, sine rixâ, Sine contentione, sine aere alieno, amicis fidem Bonam praestiti, peculio pauper, animo divitissimus, Benè valeat is qui hoc titulum perlegit meum. 

Another--

 Lucius Virius Sancius aet. Xxiii. Quod tu mî debebas facere, ego tibi facio, mater pia. 

The same idea as in Canning's verses on his son:--

 Whilst I, reversed our nature's kindlier doom, Pour forth a father's sorrows o'er his tomb. 

And Evander on Pellas:--

 Contra ego vivendo vici mea fata superstes Restarem ut genitor. 

As I came back I looked into San Bernardo, Santa Maria dellaVittoria, and Santa Susanna, and I stopped to look at the 'Mosesstriking the Rock, ' which is certainly very fine, though there istoo much of Moses and not enough of rock or water. Afterbreakfast to the Vatican library, where the Duc de Dalberg hadengaged the Abbé Maii to meet him, and he showed us all themanuscripts, most of which I had already seen. He is verylaborious as well as learned. Maii is said to undertake too much, and to leave a great deal half examined, and therefore unknown;but somebody (I forget who) is at daggers drawn with him, so itmay be the accusation of a literary enemy. Went about with theDalbergs to several places, to all of which I had been before. Atevery church the Duchess and her daughter dropped on their kneesand sprinkled themselves with holy water, and prayed andcurtsied, but nothing could get him down upon his marrow bones. 

May 25th, 1830 {p. 375}

Breakfasted with Gell in his Boschetto Gellio under a treillageof vines, and surrounded by fruits and flowers. He was veryagreeable, and told us a great many anecdotes of the Queen andher trial. We are just setting off for Tivoli. 

[Page Head: TIVOLI]

May 27th, 1830 {p. 375}

Went to Tivoli. The journey hotter than flames over the Campagna. It is the most beastly town I ever saw, more like the Ghetto herethan any other place, full of beggars and children. The inn verymoderate, but Henry and I got a very good appartment, lookingover the country, in a private house. We all dined together. 

---- is the merriest of saints, the jolliest of devotees, andvery unlike the ghost in 'Don Juan, ' who says, 'Che si pasce dicibo celeste non si pasce di cibo mortale, ' for though rigorouslyobedient to the prescribed fasts of the Church, she devours fleshenough on other days to suffice for those on which it isforbidden; and on the meagre days she indemnifies herself by anyquantity of fish, vegetables, and _sucreries_ of all kinds. It isonly like eating her first course on Thursday and her second onFriday. 

After dinner we sent for the most famous guide, with themagnificent name of Pietro Stupendo, called 'Stupendous' from hisfrequent use of that adjective in pointing out the views. Hisreal name is Barbarossa, which is nearly as fine. We went to seethe sun set from the Villa d'Este a very fine villa, with clippedtrees, waterworks, and all the usual beauties of Italian villas. It belongs to the Duke of Modena, is uninhabited, and falling todecay for want of care and attention. Thence to the Temple of theSybil or Vesta [6] (for it goes by both names), which is veryairy and graceful, and perched on the point of a rock, but itseffect spoiled by being embedded in dirty, ugly houses. The fallbelow was made by Bernini, and is very pretty, but not grand, andit looks rather artificial. We saw it from what is called theGrotto of Neptune. At night I returned again, but nobody elsewould stir out. I went down to the fall, and had bundles of haylit on the rock above, and some blue lights called _lumi diBengala_, a sort of firework, put in the temple, and the effectwas beautiful. The reflected light upon the cascade, and thelight and shade upon the rocks, and the temple made visiblethrough the darkness by the soft blue flame, without any of thebackground of buildings appearing, were very fine, and in theobscurity it seemed much more extensive and natural. I saw thisfirst from the Grotto of Neptune, and then from the oppositeheight. 

 [6] I believe it to be the Sybil's Temple. There is a frightful square building close to it they call the Sybil's Temple, but I do not see by what authority. Nibby says it is Vesta, but everybody else says the Sybil. -- FORSYTH, CRAMER, &c. 

[Page Head: TIVOLI]

Yesterday morning we were to have started on the _giro_ of Tivoliat six, but as women are never ready, and a good deal of eatingand drinking was to be gone through before we got under weigh, wewere not off till near eight. The consequence was that we gotinto the heat, and lost the colouring of the early morning, andthose lights and shades on which great part of the beauty of thisscenery depends. I was altogether disappointed; the hills areeither quite bare or covered with olives, the most tiresome oftrees; the falls are all artificial, and though the view at thefoot of the largest (or as near as you can approach it) isbeautiful, on the whole no part of the scenery answered myexpectations. The water falls in eleven separate cascades (aboveand below), and sinking into the gulf appears to boil up again inclouds of spray, but the artificial channel above is distinctlyvisible. There is an ancient bridge over the Anio and part of aroad up to Tivoli in wonderful preservation. Our party pleasedtheir imaginations by thinking that Augustus and Mecaenas hadprobably gone cheek by jowl over the road and bridge, butStupendous told me it was built by Valerian, A. D. 253, though hehad no notion who Valerian was, except that he was an Emperor. There are some curious remains of Mecaenas's Villa, particularlythe places (if they are really so) where the slaves were kept, which are just like cellars. I cannot remember seeing anyapartments destined for slaves at Pompeii, but from all one seesor hears and reads of the Roman slaves, they must have beentreated in a manner that it is inconceivable they should haveendured, considering their numbers, and of what they weregenerally composed--barbarian prisoners or free citizens reducedto servitude. We ended the _giro_ at the Villa d'Este, andbreakfasted on the terrace; the rest of the party then retired tosleep and play at cards at the inn, and I started with Stupendousto see the remains of an ancient city, and some specimens ofCyclopean walls, about four or five miles off. The first place iscalled Ventidius Bassa's, because that gentleman had a villathere, built on the ruins of a little Cyclopean town, where thereare still some walls standing. From thence to Mitriano, whichmust have been a large town, the vestiges still covering severalhills, and the remains of walls being very large; there isnothing left but a few broken fluted columns, and one flat marblestone perfect, with an inscription. This jaunt was hardly worththe trouble. 

When I came back from Mitriano, I went down to the Grotto of theSyrens, from whence the view of the cascade is much finer thanfrom the other grotto, and really grand; but the path is veryslippery from the clouds of spray constantly falling over it. Idid not go quite to the grotto, for Stupendous told me he hadnearly slipped down the rock and cracked his crown; so I declinedrunning that risk, but saw just as well, for I went nearly to thebottom. 

At half-past four we went to Adrian's Villa, with which I was asmuch delighted as I was disappointed with Tivoli. Nothing can bemore picturesque than the ruins, and nothing gives such an ideaof the grandeur of the ancient masters of the world. They are sixmiles in circumference, and the remains are considerable, thoughnot very distinct, but it is very easy to perceive that they arethe ruins of a villa, or a collection of ornamental and luxuriousbuildings, and not of a town, which from their size they mightbe. Almost all the ruins of antiquity that adorn Rome were foundhere, or in Caracalla's Baths, which latter were supplied fromthis stock--all the Albani collection, most of the MuseoBorbonico at Naples, and half the Vatican. The Albani collectionwas made by a nephew of Clement XI. , the Albani Pope. They sayonly one-fourth has been excavated. The ruins are overgrown withivy and all sorts of creepers. The grounds are full of pines andcypresses of great size, and it is altogether one of the mostinteresting and beautiful spots I have seen in Italy. The VillaAdriani now belongs to Duke Braschi, nephew of Pius VI. He hasnot excavated, but the truth is that there is little temptationto individuals to do so. The Government have taken all the ruinsunder their protection, and no proprietor is allowed to destroyany part of them. So far so good, but if he digs and findsanything, he may not sell it; the Government reserves to itself aright of pre-emption, and should he be offered a large sum by anyforeigner for any object he may find, he is not allowed to takeit, although the Government may not choose to buy it at the sameprice. They will fix a fair, but not a fancy price, but thevendor is often obliged, when they do buy it, to wait many yearsfor his money. Albani employed 1, 000 men to excavate. 

We came back in a deliciously cool evening. The Duchess wanted usto keep with her carriage (she had a pair and we had fourhorses), for fear she should be robbed--for she had heard thatsomebody had been robbed somewhere a little while ago--which wepromised; but our postilions set off in a gallop, we fell asleep, and they were left to their fate. 

[Page Head: MISS KELLY'S ADVENTURE]

_At night. _--This morning as I was sitting at Torlonia's readingthe newspapers, a woman came in, whom Luigi Chiaveri soon afterbegged to introduce to me. She was a Mrs. Kelly, of whose historyI had already heard, and I told Chiaveri I would assist her if Icould. She told me her case in detail. The short of it is this:--She and her daughter (who is very pretty) got acquainted atFlorence with a family of Swifts. Young Swift seeing the girl wasgood-looking, and hearing she was rich, made up to her, gainedher affections (as they call it), and proposed to marry her. Sheagreed, provided her mother did. They came to Rome. Swiftfollowed, established himself at the same inn, and wrote to themother to propose himself. The mother declined. He wrote a secondletter--same reply. He then prevailed on the girl to promise notto give him up, but failed in persuading her to elope with him. She said she would marry him when she was of age. He pressed herto give him a written promise to this effect before witnesses. After some hesitation she agreed, and one evening (having beenpreviously appointed by him) she met him in another room, whereshe found a priest and two men. She signed two papers withoutreading them, heard a short form muttered over, which she did notunderstand, and then was told to run downstairs again. A few daysafter she got uneasy as to what had happened, and confessed itall to her mother, who immediately conceived that this was amarriage ceremony into which she had been inveigled. She told herlover what she had done, who asked her what her mother had said. She told him that her mother fancied that it was a marriage, butthat she had told her it was not, when he informed her it was, and this was the first intimation he gave her of the sort, andthe first time he had given her to understand that he regardedher as his wife. She reproached him with his duplicity and theimposition he had practised on her, and told him she would haveno more to say to him. This took place in St. Peter's one Fridayat vespers. Soon after they went to Naples, where Swift followed, and wrote to her mother saying he had married her daughter, andasking her forgiveness; that she might fancy the marriage was notvalid, but she would find it was, having been celebrated by anabbé, witnessed by the nephew of a cardinal, and the certificatesigned by a cardinal, with the knowledge of the Pope. She sent noanswer, when he begged an interview, which she granted, and thenhe told her that he was a Catholic, and that her daughter hadbecome so too, and had signed an act of abjuration of theProtestant religion. The mother and daughter, however, declinedhaving anything to do with him, and the latter declared that shehad never changed her religion at all. He then claimed her as hiswife, and tried to prevail on Hill and Lushington (Sir HenryLushington, Consul--the present Lord Berwick, Minister) toprevent their leaving Naples. They declined to interfere, andadvised the mother to go home, and let the matter be settledbetween them in England. She took the hint and set off. Hefollowed, and overtook them at Rome, and there, by representationsto the civil and religious authorities that they were taking awayhis wife to prevent her being a Catholic, and make her relapse tothe Protestant faith, he got them to interfere, and theirpassports were refused. Such is their story. They have nobody toadvise, assist, or protect them. 

[Page Head: MISS KELLY'S ADVENTURE]

I went to La Ferronays, who was all good-nature, and said hewould go with me to Cardinal Albani; but I went first to thehotel and saw the girl alone, who corroborated all her mother hadsaid. I wrote down her evidence, and made her sign it, and thenwent with the Ambassador to the Cardinal in the Quirinal Palace. The door of his cabinet was locked, but after a sort of _abbésuisse_ had knocked a little he came and opened it, and in wewent. He did not recollect my name the last time I saw him, normy person this. La Ferronays explained the business, with whichhe was already acquainted, partly through Kestner (the HanoverianMinister) and partly through the Roman authorities, who had givenhim the case of the adventurer, for such he seems to be. TheCardinal seemed disposed to do nothing (Bunsen assures me he is avery sensible man, and right-headed and well disposed), and saidshe was married. We said, not at all. Then he hummed and hawed, and stammered and slobbered, and talked of the 'case being in thehands of the Saint Office [the Inquisition!!] under the eyes ofhis Holiness. What could he do?' We fired off a tirade againstthe infamy of the action, said that the English tribunals oughtto decide upon the validity of the marriage, that all they wantedwas to go home, that the man might follow and make his claim goodif he could, and that the story (if they were detained here)would make a noise in England, and would be echoed back to Franceby the press of both countries, and that it was very desirable toavoid such a scandal. He seemed struck with this, and said itwould be best to send them off to settle their disputes at home, but that they must have patience, that time was necessary and thecase must be examined. We were obliged to be contented with this, and saying we were sure the case was in good hands (which Idoubt, for he would leave it there if he dared), with manyscrapes and compliments we took our leave. The girl has neverdared to show her face, for fear of being carried off by thelover or shut up in a convent by the Grand Inquisitor, so Itranquillised their minds and sent them out an airing. In theevening I spoke to Monsignore Spada, who has promised to help toget up a case in Italian, if it should be wanted. 

Dined with M. De la Ferronays, and went to his villa (Mattei)afterwards. He has been perfect in this affair, full ofprompt kindness; but what a Government! how imbecile, howsuperannuated!--a Minister of ninety almost, a sovereign of whomall that can be said is that he is a great canonist, and all thatlittle bubbling and boiling of priestery and monkery, which is atonce odious, mischievous, and contemptible, a sort of extinctvolcano, all the stink of the sulphur without any of thesplendour of the eruption. They want the French again sadly. English subjects detained by the Inquisition in 1830!! LaFerronays advised me to ask the Pope for a moment of audience, and to request him to see the girl himself, and interrogate her, and learn the truth, of the case. 

I had just done writing the above when a note came from LaFerronays with the passports for the Kellys, which Albani hadsent him, so I had only to thank the Cardinal instead ofmentioning it to the Pope. I did not think he would have been soquick. How enchanted they will be to-morrow morning!

[Page Head: MISS KELLY'S ADVENTURE]

May 29th, 1830 {p. 382}

At ten Kestner called for Lovaine and me, and we went to thePope. [7] His Court is by no means despicable. A splendid suite ofapartments at the Quirinal with a very decent attendance of SwissGuards, Guardie Nobili, Chamberlains--generally ecclesiastics--dressed in purple, valets in red from top to toe, of Spanish cut, and in the midst of all a barefooted Capuchin. After waiting afew minutes, we were introduced to the presence of the Pope bythe Chamberlain, who knelt as he showed us in. The Pope was aloneat the end of a very long and handsome apartment, sitting under acanopy of state in an arm-chair, with a table before him coveredwith books and papers, a crucifix, and a snuff-box. He receivedus most graciously, half rising and extending his hand, which weall kissed. His dress was white silk, and very dirty, a whitesilk skullcap, red silk shoes with an embroidered cross, whichthe faithful kiss. He is a very nice, squinting old twaddle, andwe liked him. He asked us if we spoke Italian, and when wemodestly answered, a little, he began in the most desperatelyunintelligible French I ever heard; so that, though no doubt hesaid many excellent things, it was nearly impossible tocomprehend any of them; but he talked with interest of our King'shealth, of the antiquities, and Vescovali, of Lucien Buonaparteand his extortion (for his curiosities), said when he wasCardinal he used to go often to Vescovali. He is, in fact, aconnoisseur. Talked of quieting religious dissensions in Englandand the Catholic question; and when I said, 'Très-Saint Père, leRoi mon maître n'a pas de meilleurs sujets que ses sujetscatholiques, ' his eyes whirled round in their sockets liketeetotums, and he grinned from ear to ear. After about a quarterof an hour he bade us farewell: we kissed his hand and backed outagain. We then went to the Cardinal, whom I thanked warmly forhis prompt attention to my request in having given the passportsto _my protégées_. It is the etiquette in the Court of theQuirinal for the servants to descend from behind the carriage, and the horses to go a foot pace. 

 [7] [The Pope was Pius VIII. (Francisco Xavierio Castiglioni), whose reign was a very short one, for he succeeded Leo XII. In March 1829, and was succeeded by Gregory XVI. In December, 1830. ]

After this audience I took the passport to the Kellys. The motherwas in bed, but the girl came to me in a transport of gratitudeand joy. They went off in the evening to Florence. La Ferronaysadvised me to send them off directly, for fear the priests shouldbegin to stir in the matter and raise fresh obstacles. 

In the afternoon went to Gibson's, the sculptor. He is verysimple and intelligent, and appears to be devoted to his art. There is a magnificent Venus, composed from various models, likeZeuxis's statue of Juno at Crotona. 

 Quando Zeusi l'immagine far volse Che par dovea nel tempio di Giunone, E tante belle nude insieme accolse, E per una farne in perfezione, Da chi, una parte, e da chi, un' altra tolse. 

May 31st, 1830 {p. 383}

Yesterday the advocate to whom I had advised Mrs. Kelly to gocame to me, and said he could not understand what she said, andshe had desired him to call on me. I told him the story, and hesaid he would look into it and see what was to be done. I hadadvised her before she went to consult an Italian lawyer as tothe necessary steps to be taken here in order to prove theinvalidity of the marriage in England. This man, whose name isDottore Belli, was recommended to me by Monsignore Spada as aclever lawyer, and particularly good for the case, becausebrother of one of the judges (or other officer) in the Vicar-General'scourt. But I suppose he has less influence over the brother thanthe brother over him, for this morning he sent me a very civilbut formal letter, saying 'the parties were married, and hadabjured after instruction received'--evidently a letter dictatedby the court or by his brother, or at all events by someecclesiastical interest. They evidently want to make the marriagegood to save their own credit, but there is a great mystery inthe whole affair. Cardinal Weld told La Ferronays that they hadnot yet found the priest who had performed the ceremony. Bunsenat my request undertook to enquire into the affair, but up to thepresent moment (June 13th) he has only made the case moreconfused and inexplicable. [8]

 [8] The conclusion of this affair is not less curious than its commencement. The parties returned to this country. Swift sued Miss Kelly in the Ecclesiastical Court for the restitution of conjugal rights. After much delay the case was elaborately argued before Sir John Nicholl, who at very great length pronounced judgment against the validity of the marriage. Swift appealed to the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, when the sentence of the Court below was reversed, and the ceremony at Rome decided to be a good and binding marriage. The parties were thus irrevocably made man and wife, and after some time had elapsed their mutual friends and relations set on foot a negotiation for a reconciliation, and eventually Miss Kelly agreed to live with Mr. Swift, on condition that the marriage ceremony should be regularly performed, which was accordingly done: certain settlements were made, and they are now (for all I know to the contrary) living happily and harmoniously together. [The further proceedings in this cause are described in the second volume of this Journal, when they came before the Privy Council. ]

[Page Head: SAINT-MAKING]

To-day there was a grand ceremony of the transportation of thestandard of a new saint (that is, one made about fifty years ago)from St. Peter's to San Lorenzo in Lucina, his own church. Thissaint is San Francisco Carraccioli, a Neapolitan. All thepeasantry came in, covered with religious gewgaws, and thestreets were crowded. There was a balcony at the Cardinal's asfor the Girandola, but the Duc de Dalberg and I went to thePiazza di San Pietro, and saw it there; it was curious. Firstcame the guards; then the footmen of the cardinals in Stateliveries, four for each, carrying torches; the clergy of variousorders with chandeliers, crucifixes, immense crosses, standards, and all with torches; a long file of Jesuits, whose appearancewas remarkable, so humble and absorbed did they look; bands ofmusic and soldiers, the whole reaching from the door ofSt. Peter's to the other side of the Castle of St. Angelo. Thisprocession made the _giro_ of the city, for we fell in with itagain in the Piazza della Colonna two hours afterwards. TheChurch of San Lorenzo and the adjoining houses were illuminated, and there was a picture, inscription, &c. , stuck up over thedoor. The Cardinal Galetti, who is the patron of this order, asked the General of the Jesuits to send some of his flock toswell the procession, which he was desirous of making asbrilliant as possible. The General excused himself on the groundthat the Jesuits were not in the habit of attending processions. The Cardinal complained to the Pope of the General's refusal. Thenext time the Pope saw him (he goes once a week to the Quirinalto make his report), after discussing all their matters ofbusiness and giving him the benediction, just as he was leavingthe room, the Pope called after him, 'O reverend Father, I hopeyou will not send less than a hundred of your Jesuits to theprocession to-morrow. ' The General was thunderstruck, but obligedto obey. This ecclesiastical anecdote makes a noise here. Thepresent General is a Belgian, and a man of great ability. TheJesuits have a college here, and a seminary; a hundred in theone, and three hundred in the other. 

The process of saint-making is extremely curious. There are threegrades of saintship: the first, for which I forget the name, requires irreproachable moral conduct; the second (beatification), two well-proved miracles; the third (sanctification), three. Itcosts an immense sum of money to effect the whole, in some casesas much as 100, 000 piastres. The process begins by an applicationto the Pope, on the part of the relatives of the candidate, or onthat of the confraternity, if they belong to a religious order. The Pope refers the question to a tribunal, and the claimants areobliged to appear with their proofs, which are severelyscrutinised, and the miracles are only admitted upon theproduction of the most satisfactory evidence. Individualscontinually subscribe for this purpose, particularly for membersof religious orders, in order to increase the honour or glory ofthe society. These trials last many years, sometimes forcenturies. There is a Princess of Sardinia, sister of the lateKing, who died lately, and they want to make a saint of her. Themoney (estimated at 100, 000 piastres) is ready, but they cannotrout out a miracle by any means, so that they are at a deadstand-still before the second step. Nobody can be sanctified tilltwo hundred years after their death, but they may arrive at theprevious grades before that, and the proofs may be adduced andregistered. 

June 1st, 1830 {p. 386}

Yesterday news came of the change in the French Ministry, [9] ofwhich La Ferronays knew nothing the night before, and from whichDalberg anticipates an increase of desperate measures on the partof the Court. Went in the morning to Gibson's; in the evening tothe Orti Sallustiani, one of the many objects here not worthseeing, though they show two great holes in a wall, which theycall the Campo Scelerato, and they say it is the place where thefrail vestals were buried. Coming back we met the Pope taking adrive--two coaches-and-four, with guards and outriders. We gotout of the carriage and took off our hats, and our _laquais deplace_ dropped on his knees. The Pope was in white, two peoplesitting opposite to him, and as he passed he scattered ablessing. All persons kneel when he appears--that is, allCatholics. The equipage was not brilliant. To the Corsini Villa, the gardens of which are some of the shadiest and most agreeablein Rome, but nobody inhabits the palace. The Corsinis live atFlorence, and when they come here they lodge elsewhere, for themalaria, they say, occupies their domain. Thus it is that betweenpoverty and malaria Rome is deserted by its great men. But thepopulation ought to be increasing, for almost every woman onemeets is with child. Gell denies the malaria, says he should notmind living where they say it is dangerous to live; but can thisbe matter of opinion?

 [9] [Charles X. Had signed the decree for the dissolution of the existing Chamber of Deputies on the 16th of May: on the 19th of May another ordinance appointed M. De Chantelauze to the Ministry of Justice, M. De Peyronnet to the Interior, M. De Montbel to the Finances, and M. Capelle to the Department of Public Works. These appointments, more especially that of M. De Peyronnet, were deemed in the highest degree hostile to the Liberal party. ]

[Page Head: SAN LORENZO IN LUCINA]

In the evening looked into the Church and Piazza of San Lorenzoin Lucina. The church is hung with drapery, adorned with statues, and illuminated by innumerable wax candles. The piazza isilluminated too, and drapery hung out from the windows. Therewere crowds of people, lines of chairs, and boys bawling to thepeople to come and sit upon them; others selling lemonade, othersthe life and exploits of the saint on penny papers; a band ofmilitary music on a scaffolding, and guards patrolling about. Between the intervals of the band the bells, in discordantchorus, regaled 'the ears of the groundlings. ' This strange, discordant scene, the foundation of which is religious, but whichhas but little of the appearance of religion in it, lasts eightsuccessive days, and costs a vast sum of money--they say 9, 000scudi--the greatest part of which is furnished by the Government. It probably answers some end, for it is difficult to conceivethat any Government, even this, should spend money, of which theyhave so little to spare, on these fooleries while povertyoverspreads the land. This ceremony has not taken place beforefor a hundred years. The sight is certainly very gay. Close by, in the Palazzo Mani, is a theatre of marionettes, who play acomedy of Goldoni. The Duke Fiani lets part of his palace forthis purpose. What an exhibition of wretchedness! He reserves abox which his servants let to anybody, whether on his account ortheir own I don't know. 

_Evening. _--Went before dinner to the Villa Madama, a ruinedvilla belonging to the royal house of Naples, with fine paintingsstill on the walls and ceilings, the vestiges of former luxury, and a capital view of Rome, the Tiber, the Milvian Bridge, andthe mountains. After dinner to the San Gregorio to see thefrescoes, the 'Martyrdom of St. Andrew, ' the rival frescoes ofGuido and Domenichino, and afterwards drove about till dark, whenwe went to a most extraordinary performance--that of theFlagellants. I had heard of it, and had long been curious toassist at it. The church was dimly lit by a few candles on thealtar, the congregation not numerous. There was a service, thepeople making the responses, after which a priest, or one of theattendants of the church, went round with a bundle of whips ofknotted cord, and gave one to each person who chose to take it. Itook mine, but my companion laughed so at seeing me gravelyaccept the whip, that he was obliged to hide his face in hishands, and was passed over. In a few minutes the candles wereextinguished, and we were left in total darkness. Then aninvisible preacher began exhorting his hearers to whip themselvesseverely, and as he went on his vehemence and passion increased. Presently a loud smacking was heard all round the church, whichcontinued a few minutes; then the preacher urged us to freshexertions, and crack went the whips again louder and faster thanbefore as he exhorted. The faithful flogged till a bell rang; thewhips stopped, in a few minutes the candles were lit again, andthe priest came round and collected his cords. I had squeezedmine in my hands, so that he did not see it, and I brought itaway with me. As soon as the candles were extinguished the doorswere locked, so that nobody could go out or come in till thediscipline was over. I was rather nervous when we were locked upin total darkness, but nobody whipped me, and I certainly did notwhip myself. A more extraordinary thing (for sight it can't becalled) I never witnessed. I don't think the people stripped, nor, if they did, that the cords could have hurt them much. Fromthence to St. Peter's, where we found the _quarant' ore_ and thehigh altar illuminated with heaps of candles. Only a few lightsscattered at a great distance through the rest of the church, very few people there; but the dim light, the deep shades, thevast space, and the profound stillness were sublime. Certainlynothing in the world can approach St. Peter's, and it alwayspresents something new to admire. 

From St. Peter's to the Vatican, to see the statues bytorchlight. The effect is wonderful, and totally unlike thatwhich is produced by day. The finest statues unquestionably gainthe most, and it is easy, after seeing this, to understand whymost of the best are found in the baths; a better notion, too, may be formed of their magnificence. It would seem as if somestatues had been formed expressly to be thus exhibited. There isa mutilated statue they call a Niobe (God knows why), withdrapery blown back by the wind and appearing quite transparent. This effect cannot be produced by daylight. 

[Page Head: BUNSEN'S ACCOUNT OF ROME]

June 2nd, 1830

Called on Bunsen, who has not yet got an answer from the agent hesent to the office of the Grand Vicar. I had a long conversationwith him about the expediency of appointing an English Ministeror agent of some sort at Rome, which he thinks very desirable andvery feasible, upon the same plan on which the diplomaticrelations of Prussia with Rome are conducted, and which he saysgo on very smoothly, and without embarrassment or inconvenience. There is good faith on both sides. The Catholic bishops do notattempt to deceive the Government, and he thinks that the Courtof Rome does not attempt to hold any clandestine intercourse withthe Prussian States. He says Albani is a sensible man; that thecardinals are bigoted and prejudiced, hostile to England, andmost of them forgetful of all the See of Rome owes to ourcountry; but they are still aware that, in the hour of danger, itis to England and the Protestant countries they must look forprotection, as they found it when Austria wanted to strip them ofthe March of Ancona. He thinks there is much superstition amongthe lower classes, little religion among any, great immorality inall; the same desire of intriguing and extending its influencewhich the Romish Church has always had, but with very diminishedmeans and resources. The Inquisition is still active inrepressing heresy among Roman subjects, but not venturing tomeddle with the opinions of foreigners. Its principles and itsforms are the same as in former times. He says we have aninefficient Consul at Ancona, who was put in by Canning onaccount of his Liverpool connections. It would be very desirableto establish a regular Protestant church in Rome, with an ableand permanent minister; but there is only an occasional church, with anybody who will serve in it, and who is paid by thecongregation; but such a man is totally unable to cope with theCatholic preachers, and consequently many converts are made tothe Catholic religion. A Consul-General at Rome might answer thepurpose of an agent, and, without being an accredited Minister, perform all the functions of one. This was the pith of what hesaid, besides a great deal about the Catholic religion itself, its inferiority to the Reformed, its incompatibility with freeinstitutions, and a good deal more, not much to the purpose. Bunsen is a man of very considerable information, learned, veryobliging, and communicative, sensible, moderate, but ratherprejudiced. At this moment he is full of the French expedition[to Algiers], and their colonising projects, of which he isthoroughly persuaded and not a little afraid. 

The Duc de Dalberg told me that at the Congress of Vienna he wasdeputed to speak to Consalvi about ceding the March of Ancona tothe Austrians. He answered, 'My dear Duke, the Congress can treatus as it pleases. If we are pressed, we must retreat to thewalls; further we cannot go, and we are there already. ' TheCardinal afterwards spoke to the Emperor, and the next dayMetternich said he had orders from the Emperor to declare that hewould take nothing from the Pontifical States without the freeconcurrence of the Pope; so there ended that question. 

[Page Head: FRASCATI]

_At night. _--Just returned from Frascati with Henry de Ros--avery agreeable expedition. We went to the inn, a most execrablehotel, but dined very well on a repast we had the foresight totake with us. Before dinner went to the Villa Conti, which has adelicious garden, with fine trees and ample shade, and one of theprettiest falls of water I have seen. The house we did not enter, but it appeared small. To the Villa Marconi, without any garden, but a capital house, and the only one which looks well kept andinhabited. The Marconi house in the Conti garden would beperfect. After dinner to Tusculum, a beautiful walk under shade, with magnificent views over the Campagna on one side and MonteCavo, Rocca di Papa, and the Prati d'Annibale on the other. Theremains at Tusculum are next to nothing, part of a theatre, of anaqueduct, and of the walls. I believe the town was destroyed byPope Celestine III. (1191), in order to extirpate a band ofrobbers which had long infested the country and made Tusculumtheir stronghold. All the country hereabout is beautiful, and theair excellent, so that a more perfect residence cannot beimagined. To the Villa Belvidere, belonging to Prince Aldobrandini, deserted and neglected, but very enjoyable, full of childishwaterworks, but a good house, which is to be hired for £150 ayear, and might be made very comfortable. Here is MountParnassus, and the water turns an organ, and so makes Apollo andthe Muses utter horrid sounds, and a Triton has a horn which heis made to blow, producing a very discordant noise. I fell inwith Lady Sandwich, and went back to tea with her at a villawhich belonged to the Cardinal York. There are the royal arms ofEngland, a bust of the Cardinal, and a picture of his father orbrother. We also went to the Rufinella, whence the view isextremely fine; this was Lucien Buonaparte's villa, and the sceneof the capture of a painter and a steward by the banditti, whocarried them off from the door of the villa and took them intothe Abruzzi, which may be descried from the terrace. The ciceronewho went with us (a tiresome and chattering fellow) told us thathe had attended Queen Caroline, that they had come to him forevidence against her, and he had declared he knew nothing; but hesaid he could have deposed to some things unfavourable to her, having seen her and Bergami together and witnessed theirfamiliarity. 

[Page Head: PROTESTANT STATES AND ROME]

June 4th, 1830 {p. 391}

Yesterday rode round the walls. In the evening to the Vatican, and afterwards to Bunsen's. He gave me his memorandum to read, which is contained in a letter to Wilmot Horton of the 28th ofDecember, 1828, upon the settlement of the Catholic question, andhis view of the mode in which it might be done. He approves ofWilmot's plan, not knowing at that time that the Duke hadresolved to grant unqualified emancipation. In this paper hedescribes the existing arrangements between the other ProtestantPowers and the Court of Rome, and states in what manner he thinkswe might pursue a similar course. It is well done, and his ideasappear to me very clear and sound. It is pretty evident that weshould meet with no difficulties here, and that they wouldpractically agree to everything we should require, provided wedid not insist upon their doing so in specific terms. Ourdifficulties would arise from the extreme parties at home--theultra-Catholics and the ultra-Protestants--but a steady handmight steer betwixt them both. Bunsen describes what has beendone in Prussia, Hanover, Netherlands, and the minor GermanStates; the Prussian arrangements appear to be the wisest. Whenthe King of Prussia began to negotiate, he did not allow hisMinisters to enter upon any discussion of principles, nor to askfor any express sanction of the _status quo_. On the other handhe did not prescribe to the Church of Rome the canonical form inwhich an express or tacit acknowledgment of the claims and rightsof the Crown was to be made as to the secularisation of Churchproperty. The Netherlands went on a different plan, and framed aconstitution of the Roman Catholic Church in their dominions, called a Pragmatic Sanction, which they wanted the Pope toacknowledge. The Hanoverian Government also wished to conclude aformal treaty, and oblige the Pope to sanction certain civilregulations concerning Church government. He observes that theCourt of Rome will appear ignorant of, and thus tacitlyacknowledge, many things which it never will nor can expresslysanction and approve. 

Throughout Germany, both Catholic and Protestant, allcorrespondence between the clergy and the Pope goes through theGovernment by the law of the country--all matters public andprivate--the Pope's bulls and briefs are returned in the sameway; and whenever any of these contain expressions which runagainst the national laws, the _placet regium_ is only given withclauses reserving the rights of the Crown, and annulling what isirreconcilable with the civil law. The Court of Rome is quiteaware of this practice, and the legations of Bavaria and Austria, as well as those of Prussia and Hanover, present the respectivepetitions of their clergy through their Roman agents. Bunsen saysnothing can be practically more established, but that noconsideration would induce the Pope formally to sanction thepractice in a treaty. 

In the arrangements respecting the appointment of bishops anddignitaries, Prussia proposed the establishment of chapters, withthe same right of election which had existed before the FrenchRevolution. The smaller States of Germany followed a similarplan. Hanover proposed and obtained a veto. The chapter presentsa list; the Government strikes out any name, but must leave two, out of which the chapter may elect, but in case of irregularityor inconvenience the chapter may make a second list. TheNetherlands have the same system of limited veto and second list, and the confidential brief in addition. [10] The chapters have theright of election, the Pope of confirmation, by canonicalinstitution as the necessary condition of the bishop's consecration;but besides a confidential brief was agreed on desiring thechapter not to elect as bishop a person 'minus gratam serenissimoregi;' this ensures respect to the royal recommendation. 

 [10] [These facts, originally suggested by Bunsen at Rome to Mr. Greville were afterwards used by him as the basis of his argument for the establishment of diplomatic relations with the Court of Rome in his book on the 'Policy of England to Ireland, ' published in 1845. ]

June 5th, 1830 {p. 393}

Yesterday morning called on M. De la Ferronays, but only saw himfor a minute, for the Austrian Ambassador arrived, and I wasobliged to go. He is in great alarm as well as sorrow at theappointment of M. De Peyronnet[11] and the aspect of affairs inFrance. He told me that he had so little idea of this appointmentthat he would have guessed anybody rather than that man, who wasso odious that he had been rejected for three successive places, for the representation of which he had stood when he wasMinister; that Villèle, with all his influence, could not get himelected; and that in the Chamber of Peers he had been sointemperate that he had been repeatedly called to order, a thingwhich hardly ever occurred; that the Government had evidentlythrown away the scabbard by naming him on the eve of a generalelection, and thus offering a sort of insult to the whole nation;that it rendered his own position here very disagreeable, although his was an ecclesiastical and not a political mission, and that he in fact considered it only as an honourable retreat;yet he had written to Polignac the moment the news reached him, saying that if he considered him as in the least degreeimplicated politically with his Government he should immediatelyresign, and that if he found by his answer that he looked uponhim as in the remotest degree connected with their measures heshould instantly retire. I saw Dalberg afterwards, who appears tome deeply alarmed. He looks with anxiety to the Duke ofWellington as the only man whose authority or interference canarrest the French Ministry in the career which must plunge Franceinto a civil war, if not create a general war in Europe. Hebelieves that Metternich and the Austrians are backing up CharlesX. , and that, in case of any troubles, they will, in virtue ofthe Treaty of Chaumont, pour troops into France. His hope, then, is that the Duke will interpose and prevent this Austrianinterference. 

 [11] [M. De Peyronnet was the Garde des Sceaux in the Polignac Cabinet: he was considered one of the most reactionary members of that ill-fated Administration. ]

When La Ferronays told Polignac his opinion of the course he wasbeginning, the other only said, 'Mon cher, tu ne connais pas lepays. ' The King told Dalberg himself that he would rather labourfor his bread than be King of England; that it was not being aking. In his presence, too, he asked General ----, the Governorof Paris, what was the disposition of the troops, and heanswered, 'Excellent, sir; I have been in all the _casernes_, andthey desire nothing so much as to fight for your Majesty;' andsuch words as these the King swallows and acts upon. Theirconfidence, audacity, and presumption are certainly admirable, disdaining any art and management, and apparently anxious tobring about a crisis with the least possible delay. 

[Page Head: POLIGNAC AND VILLÈLE]

June 7th, 1830 {p. 394}

Drove about yesterday taking leave of people and places, theformer of which I probably shall, and the latter shall not, seeagain. I have seen almost everything, but leave Rome with greatregret, principally because I am afraid I shall never come again. If I was sure of returning I should not mind it. 

_Three o'clock. _--Have determined to stay till after the CorpusDomini. Called on the Cardinal, who received me _à bras ouverts_, was full of civilities, and reconducted me to the outward room;talked of the Catholics and of the anxiety of his Government tosee relations established with ours. I was obliged to go and takeleave of him, for Bruti brought me a message full of politenessand a letter to convey to the Nuncio at Paris. Then to LaFerronays, who says, as does Dalberg, that he is persuaded itwill end by the recall of Villèle to the Ministry, a compromisethat all parties will be glad to make--that he has had theprudence to decline being a party to Polignac's Administration, and when he is called to form one he will have nothing to say toPolignac. [12] It certainly will be curious if Villèle, afterbeing driven from the Government with universal execration, andalmost proscribed, should in two years be recalled by the generalvoice as the only man who can save France from anarchy and civilwar. La Ferronays says that Villèle is not a great Minister, buta clever man, with great ingenuity and the art of management. Hewishes to be thought like Pitt, who was also obliged to quit theMinistry, and afterwards resumed it; and he considers Polignac ashis Addington, not that the resemblance holds good in any of theparticulars, either of the men, or the times, or the circumstances. 

 [12] [M. De Villèle had come to Paris from his country seat in April, and a secret attempt had been made to bring him back to power. Prince Polignac offered him a seat in the Cabinet, but showed no disposition to make way for him. The King feared Villèle and preferred Polignac. Yet if M. De Villèle had then returned to power, he would probably have saved the monarchy and changed the course of events in Europe. (See Duvergier de Hauranne, 'Histoire du Gouvernement parlementaire en France, ' tome x. P. 468; for a narration of these transactions. )]

June 8th, 1830 {p. 395}

Last night to the La Ferronays', when the Princess Aldobrandiniwas so delighted with the anecdote of my horse-shoe that she isgone off to the Pantheon to look at it. It was a full moon and aclear night, so I went to the Coliseum, and passed an hour there. I never saw it so well; the moon rode above without a cloud, butwith a brilliant planet close to her; there was not a breath ofair, not a human being near but the soldiers at the gates below, and the monk above with me; not a sound was heard but thoseoccasional noises of the night, the bark of a dog, the chimesfrom churches and convents, the chirp of a bird, which onlyserved to make silence audible. Though I have seen the Coliseum adozen times before, I never was so delighted with its beauty andgrandeur as to-night. No description in poetry or painting can doit justice; it is a 'wreck of ruinous perfection, ' whose charmmust be felt, and on such a night as this. The measures which theGovernment have taken to save the Coliseum from destruction willcertainly accomplish that end, but its picturesque appearancewill be greatly damaged. There is no part of the ruin which isnot already supported by some modern brickwork, and they arebuilding a wall which will nearly surround it. If they had beenmore selfish they would have left it to moulder away, andposterity to grumble over their stinginess or indifference. I amalways tossed backwards and forwards between admiration of theColiseum and St. Peter's, and admire most that which I see last. They are certainly 'magis pares quam similes, ' but wortheverything else in Italy put together, except Paestum. 

[Page Head: EXCOMMUNICATION OF A THIEF]

To-day the spiritual arms of the Church are to be fulminatedagainst a sinner in a case which is rather curious. There are twobrothers who live at a place called Genezzano, in two adjoininghouses, which formerly formed but one, belonging to the Colonnafamily, of whom the progenitors of these men bought it. A shorttime ago a man came to the brothers, and told them that in aparticular spot on the premises there was a treasure concealed, the particulars of which he had learned from a memorandum in thepapers of the Colonna family, to which he had got access, and heproposed to discover the same to them, if they would give him apart of it. They agreed, when he told them that under a littlecolumn built against a wall they would find a flat brick, covering a hole, in which was an earthen pot containing 2, 000ducats in gold. The column was there, so at night the brothersset to work to take it down, and beneath it they found the flatstone as described. When one of them (an apothecary) said to theother that, after all, it was probably an invention, that theyshould be laughed at for their pains, and he thought they hadbetter give up the search, the other (who must be a great flat)said, 'Very well, ' and they retired to bed. In the morning theapothecary told the other that in the night he could not helpthinking of this business, and that his curiosity had induced himto get up and dig on, and that he had actually found the pot, butnothing in it. The other, flat as he was, could not stand this, and, on examining the pot, he found marks which, on furtherinvestigation, turned out to be indications of coin having beenin it. The thief stuck to his story, so the dupe complained, and, as the presumption is considered to be strongly against him, theyare going to try what excommunication will do. It is remarkablethat they asked this man if he would swear upon the Host that hehad not found any money, and this he refused to do, though hecontinued to deny it and to decline restitution. He was accounteda very religious man, and these were religious scruples, which, however, were not incompatible with robbery and fraud. Hisrefusal to swear was taken as a moral evidence of guilt, and hewas to be excommunicated to-day. 

June 9th, 1830 {p. 397}

Saw Torlonia's house; very fine, and the only one in Rome whichis comfortably furnished, and looks as if it was inhabited. Agreat many good pictures, and Canova's Hercules and Lycus, whichI do not admire. In the evening to the Convent of SS. Giovanni ePaolo, which is remarkably clean and well kept. There areforty-five friars (Passionisti), whose vows were not irrevocable, and, though the cases do not often occur, they can lay aside thehabit if they please. They live on charity. In their garden is abeautiful palm, one of three which grow in Rome. They haveseveral apartments for strangers who may like to retire to theconvent for a few days, which are very decently furnished, clean, and not uncomfortable. They were at supper when I got there, soI went to look at them. They eat in silence at two long tableslike those in our college halls, and instead of conversation theywere entertained by some passages of the life of St. Ignatius, which a friar was reading from a pulpit. Their supper seemed byno means despicable, for I met a smoking _frittura_ which lookedand smelt very good, and the table was covered with bread, fruit, vegetables, and wine. But they fast absolutely three times aweek, and whip themselves (_la disciplina_) three others. Theyteach theology and _la dogmatica_, and there is a librarycontaining (they told me) books of all sorts, though theirbinding (for I only saw them through a trellis) looked desperatelytheological. At night to a very fine _feu d'artifice_ in thePiazza San Lorenzo, which ended the festivities in honour of SanFrancisco Caraccioli, whose name appeared emblazoned amidstrockets and squibs and crackers, and the uproarious delight ofthe mob. Afterwards to the Pantheon to see it by moonlight, butthe moon was not exactly over the roof, so it failed, but theeffect of the partial light and the stars above was fine with thetorches below half hid behind the columns. 

June 10th, 1830 {p. 398}

I thought I had seen everything here worth seeing, yet, though Ihave been several times to the Capitol, I have somehow missedseeing the Palazzo dei Conservatori, containing the famous wolfthat suckled Romulus and Remus, in bronze, said to have beenstruck by lightning (of which it bears all the marks) the dayJulius Caesar was killed; the boy picking the thorn from hisfoot; the statue of the first Brutus; the geese of the Capitol(which are more like ducks); and the Fasti Consulares. It justoccurred to me in time, and I went there yesterday morning. Afterdinner to the Villa Ludovisi with the Dalbergs and Aldobrandinis, which must owe its celebrity principally to the difficulty ofgetting access to it. I was extremely disappointed; Guercino's'Aurora' is not to be compared to Guido's; his 'Day' and 'Night'are very fine, and the 'Fame' magnificent, but the ladies bustledthrough so rapidly that it was not possible to examine anything. The gardens are large, but all straight walks and clipped hedges. The gallery of statues contains three or four fine things, butthey are huddled together and their effect spoilt. 

[Page Head: PROCESSION OF THE CORPUS CHRISTI]

June 11th, 1830 {p. 399}

Whilst the carriage is getting ready I may as well scribble thelast day at Rome. And this morning went at eight to the PalazzoAccoramboni, to see the procession of the Corpus Domini, and wasdisappointed. This Palazzo Accoramboni, in which we wereaccommodated, belonged to a very rich old man, who was married toa young and pretty wife. He died and left her all his fortune, but, suspecting that she was attached to a young man who used tofrequent the house, he made the bequest conditional upon her notmarrying again, and if she did the whole property was to go tosome religious order. She was fool enough (and the man too) tomarry, but clandestinely. She had two children, and this broughtthe marriage to light. They therefore lost the property, amounting to £10, 000 or £12, 000 a year; but the Pope, in his vastgenerosity, allows her out of it 300 piastres (about £65) a year, and gives a portion of 1, 000 piastres (£200) to each of thelittle girls. It is supposed that she consulted some priest, whourged her to marry secretly, and then revealed the fact to theorder interested. Otherwise it is difficult to account for theirfolly. 

The magnificence of ceremonies and processions here depends uponthe locality, and the awnings and flowers round the piazza spoiltit all. It was long and rather tiresome--all the monks andreligious orders in Rome, the cardinals and the Pope, plenty ofwax-lights, banners, and crosses, the crosses of Constantine andCharlemagne. The former is not genuine; that of Charlemagne isreally the one he gave to the See. The Pope looks as if he washuddled into a short bed, and his throne, or whatever it iscalled, is ill managed. He is supposed to be in the act ofadoration of the Host, which is raised before him, but as hecannot kneel for such a length of time, he sits covered withdrapery, and with a pair of false legs stuck out behind to givehis figure the appearance of kneeling. Before him are borne thetriple crown and other Pontifical ornaments. The Guardia Nobile, commanded by Prince Barberini, looked very handsome, and all thetroops _en très-belle tenue_. All the Ambassadors and foreignerswere in this palace, and from it we flocked to St. Peter's, whichis always a curious sight on these occasions from the multitudesin it and the variety of their appearance and occupation--cardinals, princes, princesses, mixed up with footmen, pilgrims, and peasants. Here, Mass going on at an altar, and crowdskneeling round it; there, the Host deposited amidst a peal ofmusic at another; in several corners, cardinals dressing orundressing, for they all take off the costume they wore in theprocession and resume their scarlet robes in the church; menhurrying about with feathers, banners, and other paraphernalia ofthe day, the peasantry in their holiday attire, and crowds ofcurious idlers staring about. All this is wonderfully amusing, and is a scene which presents itself in continual variety. Wentafterwards and took leave of all my friends--La Ferronays, Dalbergs, Bunsens, Lovaines, &c. --and at seven, to my greatsorrow, left Rome. But as I do all that superstition dictates, Idrank in the morning a glass of water at the Fountain of Trevi, for they say that nobody ever drinks of the Fountain of Treviwithout returning to Rome. 

The road about Narni and Augustus's Bridge is beautifullypicturesque. I set off directly to the cascade, with which I wasas much delighted as I was disappointed with that of Tivoli. Itis difficult to conceive anything more magnificent than the wholeof this scenery. 

[Page Head: FALLS OF TERNI]

Florence, June 10th, 1830 {p. 400}

The horses were announced, and I was obliged to break off myaccount of Terni and resume it here, where I arrived after atedious journey of forty hours, from Rome. 

Most people are dragged up the mountain by _bovi_, see the upperpart of the fall, and walk down. But as the _bovi_ were not athand, I reversed the usual order, walked to the bottom, and thentoiled to the top. The walk, which is lovely, lies through thegrounds of a count, who has a house close to the Nera (the Nera(Nar) is the river into which the Velino runs, and in which thereis very good trout fishing), where the Queen of England oncelived for a month. At the different points of view are littlecabins (which would be very picturesque if they were less rudelyconstructed) for the accommodation of artists and othertravellers. This gentleman has got a house which he reserves forthe use of artists, of which there are always several on the spotduring the summer. They pay nothing for the accommodation, buteach is obliged to leave a drawing when he goes away; and by thismeans he has got an interesting collection, of the scenery ofTerni. Nothing can be more accurate, as well as beautiful, thanByron's description of the cascade, and it is wonderful in hismagnificent poetry, how he has kept his imagination within thebounds of truth, and neither added a circumstance nor lavished anepithet to which it is not entitled. 

 Horribly beautiful! but on the verge From side to side, beneath the glittering morn, An Iris sits amidst the infernal surge, Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn Its steady dyes, while all around is torn By the distracted waters, bears serene Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn: Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, Love watching Madness with unalterable mien. 

The rainbows are very various, seen from different points: fromthe middle, where the river rushes from the vortex of the greatfall to plunge into another, the stream appears to be paintedwith a broad layer of divers colours, never broken or mixed tillthey are tossed up in the cloud of spray, and mingled with it ina thousand variegated sparkles. Above, an iris bestrides themoist green hill which rises by the side of the fall; and, as thespray is whirled up in greater or less abundance, it perpetuallyand rapidly changes its colours, now disappearing altogether, andnow beaming with the utmost vividness. The man told me that atnight the moon forms a white rainbow on the hill. There is adelicious but dangerous coolness all about the cascade. All thescenery about is as beautiful as possible. Just above the greatfall is the Velinus tearing along in the same channel, which wasfirst made for him by the Roman Consul 2, 200 years ago--

 Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice--

and there, the guide told me, some years ago a man threw in ayoung and beautiful wife of whom he was jealous. He took her tosee the cascade, and when he got to this part (which is at theend of a narrow path overhung with brushwood) he got rid of theboys who always follow visitors, and after some delay returnedalone, and said the woman had fallen in. One scream had beenheard, but there was nobody to witness the truth. The mangledbody was found in the stream below. Jealousy is probably commonhere. As I was walking a man passed me, going in great haste tothe mountain, but I paid no attention to him. When I got back Iheard that he was escaping from justice (into the Abruzzi, which are in the Neapolitan dominions), having stabbed hisbrother-in-law a few moments before out of jealousy of his wife. The wounded man was still alive, but badly hurt. The murderer was_un bravo mechanico_. 

The mountain and the river have undergone many revolutions. Therock through which the present path is cut has been formedentirely by petrified deposits, and there are marks in variousparts of former cascades, from which the water has been turnedaway. Clement VIII. (Aldobrandini) turned the water into itspresent course. At the bottom the old outlet of the Romans isdry, but is marked with that solidity which defies time, like alltheir works of this kind. Great part of the road from Terni isbeautiful, and the Papal towns and villages appear to be in muchbetter condition than on the other road. Some of them perched onthe mountains are remarkably picturesque. 

Bologna, June 14th, 1830 {p. 402}

I went yesterday morning to Pratolino to see the statue of thegenius of the Apennines, by John of Bologna, six miles fromFlorence. Pratolino was the favourite residence of the famousBianca Capello. The house has been pulled down. It is in a verypretty English garden belonging to the Grand Duke, and, I think, amazingly grand, but disgraced by presiding over a duck pond. They told me that if he stood up (and he looks as if he could ifhe would) he would be thirty _braccia_ in height. I went into hishead, and surveyed him on all sides. He ought to be placed oversome torrent, or on the side of a mountain; but as he is, from alittle distance (whence the ducks and their pond are not visible)he is sublime. Myriads of fire-flies sparkled in every bush; theyare beautiful in a night journey, flitting about like meteors andglittering like shooting stars. 

[Page Head: MEZZOFANTI]

Dined with Lady Normanby at Sesto, set off at half-past eight, and arrived here at nine this morning. The first thing I did wasto present my letter to Madame de Marescalchi from her sister, the Duchesse de Dalberg, who received me graciously and asked meto dinner; the next to call on Mezzofanti at the public library, whom I found at his desk in the great room, surrounded by a greatmany people reading. He received me very civilly, and almostimmediately took me into another room, where I had a longconversation with him. He seems to be between fifty and sixtyyears of age, short, pale, and thin, and not at all remarkable incountenance or manner. He spoke English with extraordinaryfluency and correctness, and with a very slight accent. Iendeavoured to detect some inaccuracy of expression, but couldnot, though perhaps his phraseology was occasionally more stiffthan that of an Englishman would be. He gave me an account of hisbeginning to study languages, which he did not do till he was ofa mature age. The first he mastered were the Greek and Hebrew, the latter on account of divinity, and afterwards he began themodern languages, acquiring the idioms of each as he becameacquainted with the parent tongue. He said that he had noparticular disposition that way when a child, and I was surprisedwhen he said that the knowledge of several languages was of noassistance to him in mastering others; on the contrary, that whenhe set to work at a fresh language he tried to put out of hishead all others. I asked him of all modern languages which hepreferred, and which he considered the richest in literature. Hesaid, 'Without doubt the Italian. ' He then discussed the geniusof the English language, and the merits of our poets andhistorians, read, and made me read, a passage of an English book, and then examined the etymology and pronunciation of severalwords. He has never been out of Italy, or further in it thanLeghorn, talks of going to Rome, but says it is so difficult toleave his library. He is very pleasing, simple, and communicative, and it is extraordinary, with his wonderful knowledge, that heshould never have written and published any work upon languages. He asked me to return if I stayed at Bologna. The library has atolerable suite of apartments, and the books, amounting to about80, 000 volumes, are in excellent order. One thousand crowns ayear are allowed for the purchase of new books. 

The Bolognese jargon is unintelligible. A man came and asked himsome questions while I was there in a language that was quitestrange to me, and when I asked Mezzofanti what it was, he saidBolognese, and that, though not harmonious, it was forcible andexpressive. Afterwards to the gallery, which contains the finestpictures in Italy, though only a few: the Guidos and Domenichinosare splendid. I think Domenichino the finest painter that everexisted. 

June 15th, 1830 {p. 404}

Dined yesterday with Madame de Marescalchi, who lives in a greatpalace, looking dirty and uncomfortable, except one or two roomswhich they occupy. There is a gallery of pictures, all of whichare for sale. Seven or eight Italians came to dinner, whose namesI never discovered. After dinner she took me to the Certosa, tosee the Campo Santo, which is a remarkably pretty spot, and thedead appear to be more agreeably lodged at Bologna than theliving. I had much rather die here than live here. It is veryunlike the Campo Santo at Pisa, entirely modern, and looksexceedingly cheerful. Guido's skull is kept here. 

Went again to the gallery, and the Zambeccari Palace, where thereare a few good pictures, but not many. All the pictures in allthe palaces are for sale. 

[Page Head: FERRARA]

_In the ferry, crossing the Po_ (i. E. Written in theferry). --Called on Madame de Marescalchi to take leave. Set offat half-past one, and in clouds of dust arrived at Ferrara. It iscurious to see this town, so large, deserted, and melancholy. Apestilence might have swept over it, for there seems no life init, and hardly a soul is to be seen in the streets. It is eightand a half miles round, and contains 24, 000 inhabitants, of which3, 000 are Jews, and their quarter is the only part of the townwhich seems alive. They are, as usual, crammed into a corner, five streets being allotted to them, at each end of which is agate that is closed at nine o'clock, when the Jews are shut infor the night. The houses are filthy, stinking, and out ofrepair. The Corso is like a street in an English town, broad, long, the houses low, and with a _trottoir_ on both sides. TheCastle, surrounded by a moat, stands in the middle of the town, agloomy place. In it lives the Cardinal Legate. I went to see thedungeon in which Tasso was confined; and the library, where theyshow Ariosto's chair and inkstand, a medal found upon his bodywhen his tomb was opened, two books of his manuscript poetry;also the manuscript of the 'Gerusalemme, ' with the alterationswhich Tasso made in it while in prison, and the originalmanuscript of Guarini's 'Pastor Fido. ' The _custode_ told me thatin the morning the library was full of readers, which I did notbelieve. There are some illuminated Missals, said to be thefinest in Italy. Though the idea of gaiety seems inconsistentwith Ferrara, they have an opera, corso, and the same round offestivals and merriment as other Italian towns, but I never sawso dismal a place. 

[Page Head: VENICE]

Venice, June 16th, 1830 {p. 405}

We crossed the Po, and afterwards the Adige, in boats. Thecountry is flat, and reminded me of the Netherlands. I was asleepall night, but awoke in time to see some of the villas on thebanks of the Brenta. Of Padua I was unconscious. Embarked in agondola at Fusina, and arrived at this remarkable city under thebad auspices of a dark, gloomy, and very cold day. It is Venice, but living Venice no more. In my progress to the inn I sawnothing but signs of ruin and blasted grandeur, palaces halfdecayed, and the windows boarded up. The approach to the city iscertainly as curious as possible, so totally unlike everythingelse, and on entering the Great Canal, and finding

 The death-like silence and the dread repose

of a place which was once the gayest and most brilliant in theworld, a little pang shoots across the imagination, recollectingits strange and romantic history and its poetical associations. 

_Two o'clock. _--I am just driven in by a regular rainy day, andhave the prospect of shivering through the rest of it in a roomwith marble floor and hardly any furniture. However, it is theonly bad day there has been since the beginning of my expedition. The most striking thing in Venice (at least in such weather asthis) is the unbroken silence. The gondolas glide along withoutnoise or motion, and, except other gondolas, one may traverse thecity without perceiving a sign of life. I went first to theChurch of Santa Maria dei Frati, which is fine, old, and adornedwith painting and sculpture. At Santa Maria dei Frati Titian wasburied. Canova intended a monument for him, but after his deathhis design was executed and put up in this church, but for him, and not for Titian, the reverse of 'sic vos non vobis. ' Here aretombs of several Doges, of Francis Foscari, with a pompousinscription. The body of Carmagnola lies here in a wooden coffin;his head is under the stone on which it was cut off in the Piazzadi San Marco. He was beheaded by one of those pieces of iniquityand treachery which the Venetian Government never scrupled to usewhen it suited them. Then to the Scuola di San Rocco, containinga splendid apartment and staircase, all richly gilded, painted byTintoret, and with bronze doors. To the Church of Santa Mariadella Salute, containing a very rich altar-piece of preciousstones, which is locked up, and produced on great occasions; andin the sacristy three fine pictures by Titian. To the Church ofSt. Mark and the Doge's Palace--all very interesting, antique, and splendid. But the Austrians have modernised some of therooms, and consequently spoilt them. They have also blocked upthe Bridge of Sighs, and the reason (they told me) is that allthe foreigners who come here are so curious to walk over it, which seems an odd one for shutting it up. The halls of audienceand of the different councils are magnificently gilded, andcontain some very fine pictures. 

The Hall of the Council of Ten (the most powerful and themost abominable tribunal that ever existed) has been partlymodernised. In the Chamber of the Inquisitors of State is stillthe hole in the wall which was called the 'Lion's Mouth, ' throughwhich written communications were made; and the box into whichthey fell, which the Inquisitors alone could open. There were'Bocche di Lioni' in several places at the head of the Giant'sStaircase, and in others. The mouths are gone, but the holesremain. Though the interior of the Ponte di Sospiri is no longervisible, the prisons are horrible places, twenty-four in number, besides three others under water which the French had closed up. They are about fourteen feet long, seven wide, and seven high, with one hole to admit air, a wooden bed, which was coveredwith straw, and a shelf. In one of the prisons are severalinscriptions, scrawled on the wall and ceiling. 

 Di chi mi fido, mi guardi Iddio, Di chi non mi fido, mi guardo io. 

 Un parlar pocho, un negar pronto, Un pensar in fine può dar la vita A noi altri meschini. 

 Non fida d'alcuno, pensi e tacci Se fuggir vuoi di spioni, insidie e lacci. Il pentirti, il pentirti, nulla giova Ma ben del valor tuo far vera prova. 

There are two places in which criminals, or prisoners, weresecretly executed; they were strangled, and without seeing theirexecutioner, for a cord was passed through an opening, which hetwisted till the victim was dead. This was the mode pursued withthe prisoners of the Inquisitors; those of the Council were oftenplaced in a cell to which there was a thickly grated window, through which the executioner did his office, and if theyresisted he stabbed them in the throat. The wall is still coveredwith the blood of those who have thus suffered. From the time oftheir erection, 800 years ago, to the destruction of the Republicnobody was ever allowed to see these prisons, till the Frenchcame and threw them open, when the people set fire to them andburnt all the woodwork; the stone was too solid to be destroyed. One or two escaped, and they remain as memorials of the horrorsthat were perpetrated in them. 

[Page Head: VENICE]

June 17th, 1830 {p. 408}

This morning was fine again, and everything looks gayer thanyesterday. From the Rialto to the Piazza di San Marco there isplenty of life and movement, and it is exactly like CranbourneAlley and the other alleys out of Leicester Square. While Venicewas prosperous St. Mark's must have been very brilliant, buteverything is decayed. All round the piazza are coffee houses, which used to be open and crowded all night, and some of them arestill open, but never crowded. They used to be illuminated withlamps all round, but most of these are gone. One sees a few Turkssmoking and drinking their coffee here, but they are all obligedto dine and sleep in one house, which is on the Grand Canal, andcalled the Casa dei Turchi. I went this morning to the ChiesaScalzi, San Georgio Meggiore, Redentore, SS. Giovanni e Paolo, and the Gesuiti. The latter is the most beautiful church I eversaw, the whole of it adorned with white marble inlaid with verdantique in a regular pattern. SS. Giovanni e Paolo has no marbleor gilding, but is full of monuments of Doges and generals. Tothe Manfrini Palace for the pictures. The finest picture in thepalace is Titian's 'Deposition from the Cross, ' for which theMarchese Manfrini refused 10, 000 ducats. A Guido (Lucretia) andsome others. Tintoret was no doubt a great genius, but his largepictures I cannot admire, and Bassano's still less. Titian'sportrait of Ariosto is the most interesting in the collection. Tothe Arsenal, which is three miles in circumference, and aprodigious establishment. In the time of the Republic there werenearly 6, 000 men employed in it, in that of the French 4, 000, now800. The old armoury is very curious, full of ancient weapons, the armour of Henry IV. Of France, and of several Doges, Turkishspoils, and instruments of torture. The Austrians have made theFrench much regretted here. It is since the last peace that thepopulation of Venice has diminished a fourth, and the palaces ofthe nobles have been abandoned. There is no commerce; theGovernment spend no money, and do nothing to enliven or benefitthe town (there has not yet been time to see the effect of makingit a free port). The French employed the people, and spent moneyand embellished the place. They covered over a wide canal andturned it into a fine street, and adjoining it they formed alarge public garden, which is a delightful addition to the town. Till the French came the bridges were dangerous; there was nobalustrade on either side, and people often fell into the water. They built side walls to all of them, which was the most usefulgift they could bestow upon the Venetians. 

This morning I asked for the newspapers which came by the postyesterday, and found that they had not yet returned from thepolice, and would not be till to-morrow. Before anybody isallowed to read their newspapers they must undergo examination, and if they contain anything which the censor deems objectionablethey detain them altogether. After dinner I went to the publicgardens, and into a theatre which is in them; there is no roof toit, and the acting is all by daylight, and in the open air. Ionly arrived at the end, just in time to see the deliverance of aChristian heroine and a very truculent-looking Turk crammed downa trap-door, but I could not understand the dialogue. Nothingcertainly can be more extraordinary or more beautiful than Venicewith her adjacent islands, and nothing more luxurious thanthrowing oneself into a gondola and smoothly gliding about thewhole day, without noise, motion, or dust. At night I went to adirty, ill-lit theatre, to see the 'Barbiere di Seviglia, ' whichwas very ill performed. There was a ballet, but I did not stayfor it. 

June 18th, 1830 {p. 409}

To the Church of St. Mark, and examined it. It is not large, butvery curious, so loaded with ornament within and without, and sounlike any other church. The pavement, instead of being flat, ismade to undulate like the waves of the sea. All the sides aremarble, all the top mosaic, all the pavement coloured marble inexquisite patterns. There is not a single tomb in it, but itwants no ornament that the wealth and skill of ages could supply. Climbed up the tower to see Venice and the islands; a man isposted here day and night to strike the hours and quarters on agreat bell, to ring the alarm in case of fire in any part of thecity. It is a very curious panorama, and the only spot from whichthis strange place can be completely seen. In the Grimani Palacethere are some Titians (not very good) of Grimani Doges, andothers of the family; the famous statue of Agrippa, whichCardinal Grimani brought from Home, and a ceiling by Salviati ofNeptune and Minerva contending to give a name to Athens. In thePisani Palace, a fine picture of P. Veronese, 'Darius's Family atthe Feet of Alexander. '[13] The Barbarigo Palace has never beenmodernised, has kept all its original form and decorations. It isfull of Titians, all very dirty and spoiling. The finest is the'Magdalen, ' which is famous. The Royal Academy, called the Scuoladella Carità, contains a magnificent collection of the Venetianschool. 

 [13] [This fine work is now in the National Gallery, London. ]

In I forget which church is the 'Martyrdom of St. Peter' byTitian, so like in composition the same subject by Domenichino atBologna that the one is certainly an imitation of the other(Titian died in 1576; Domenichino was born in 1581). There is thesame sort of landscape, same number of figures, and in the samerespective attitudes and actions, and even the same dress toeach. In the hall of the Academy are preserved Canova's righthand in an urn, and underneath it his chisel, with these wordsinscribed: 'Quod amoris monumentum idem gloriae instrumentumfuit. ' There is also a collection of drawings and sketches byvarious masters; some by M. Angelo and some by Raphael. 

[Page Head: VINCENZA AND PADUA]

Vicenza, June 19th, 1830 {p. 411}

This morning went again to St. Mark's to examine the library andthe palace, which I could hardly see the other day, it was such, gloomy weather. The library is open to everybody, but with a longlist of rules, among which silence is particularly enjoined. The_custos librorum_ is a thorough Venetian; talked with fond regretof the splendour of the Republic, and is very angry with Daru forhis history. The Hall of the Great Council, containing theportraits of the Doges (and Marino Faliero's black curtain), issplendid, and adorned with paintings of Paul Veronese, Bassano, Tintoret, and Palma Giovane. At twelve o'clock I got into thegondola and left Venice without the least regret or desire toreturn there. The banks of the Brenta would be very gay if thevillas were inhabited, but most of them are shut up, like thepalaces at Venice. There is one magnificent building, formerly aPisani palace, which belongs to the Viceroy, the Archduke Rainer. 

Padua is a large and rather gloomy town. They say it is beginningto flourish, having been ruined by the French, and that, sincetheir downfall, the population has increased immensely. TheUniversity contains 1, 400 scholars. It contained 52, 500 in thetime of the French, and in the great days of Padua 18, 000. I wentto look at the outside of the building, which is not large, buthandsome. The old palace of the Carraras is half ruined, and whatremains is tenanted by the commandant of the place. The old Saladi Giustizia, which, is very ancient, is now a lumber room, andthey were painting scenes in it. Still it is undamaged, and theycall it the finest room in Europe, and perhaps it is. It is 300feet long, 100 wide, and 100 high. At one end of it is themonument and bust of Livy, the latter of which they pretend tohave found here; they also talk of his house and the marbles, &c. , that have been dug up in it, which they may believe who can. The Cathedral has nothing to boast of, except that Petrarch wasone of its canons, and in it is his bust, put up by a brothercanon. I had not time to go to the churches. 

The whole road from Fusina to this place is as flat as the paperon which I am writing. I really don't believe there is amolehill, but it is extremely gay from the variety of habitationsand the prodigious cultivation of all sorts. Vicenza is one ofthe most agreeable towns I ever saw, and I would rather live init than in any place I have seen since Rome. It is spacious andclean, full of Palladio's architecture; besides the Palazzo dellaRagione, a very fine building, there are twenty-two palaces builtby him in various parts of the town. They show the house in whichhe lived. From the Church of Santa Maria del Monte, a mile fromthe town, there is a magnificent view, and the town itself, underthe mountains of the Tyrol, and the end of a vast cultivatedplain, looks very inviting and gay. There is a Campo di Marte, apublic walk and drive, and from it a covered walk (colonnade)half a mile long up to the church on the hill. One of the mostremarkable things here is the Olympic Theatre, which was begun byPalladio and finished by his son. It is a small Grecian theatre, exactly as he supposes those ancient theatres to have been, withthe same proscenium, scenes, decorations, and seats for theaudience. There appeared to me to be some material variationsfrom the theatre at Pompeii. In the latter the seats go down tothe level of the orchestra, which they do not here, and atPompeii there is no depth behind the proscenium, whereas herethere is very considerable. It is, however, a beautiful model. The air and the water are good, and there is shooting, so that Ireally think it would be possible to live here. They talk withhorror of the French, and of the two seem to prefer theAustrians, but peace is better than war, _caeteris paribus_. 

[Page Head: BRESCIA AND MILAN]

Brescia, June 21st, 1830 {p. 412}

This is a particularly nice town, airy, spacious, and clean, andin my life I never saw so many good-looking women. There is adrive and walk on the ramparts, where I found all the beauty andfashion of Brescia, a string of carriages not quite so numerousas in Hyde Park, but a very decent display. The women areexcessively dressed, and almost all wear black lace veils, thrownover the back of the head, which are very becoming. The walks onthe ramparts are shaded by double rows of trees, and command avery pretty view of the mountains and country round. This inn isexecrable. I stopped at Verona to see the Amphitheatre, which isonly perfect in the inside, and has been kept so by repeatedrepairs. It is hardly worth seeing after the Flavian and thePompeiian. There is a wooden theatre in it, where they act, andthe spectators occupy the ancient seats. The tombs of theScaligeri are admirable, the most beautiful and graceful Gothic;their castle (now the Castle Vecchio) a gloomy old building in amoat, but with a very curious bridge over the Po. The Church ofSt. Zeno is remarkable from its Gothic antiquity and theprofusion of ornament about it of a strange sort. Here is thetomb of Pepin, erected by Charlemagne, but empty; for the French, in one of their invasions, carried the body to France. In theCathedral is a fine picture of the 'Assumption of the Virgin' byTitian. I saw many Veronese beauties in their balconies, but nonequite like Juliet. Her tomb (or, as they would say at Rome, 'sepolcro detto di Giulietta') I did not see, for it was too faroff. I was in a hurry to be off, and there was nobody to detainme with a tender 'Wilt thou be gone? It is not yet near' _night_. The road, which is excellent, runs in sight of the Alps all theway, and the Lago di Garda is excessively pretty. 

Milan, June 23rd, 1830 {p. 413}

Milan is a very fine town, without much to see in it. The Duomo, Amphitheatre, Arch of the Simplon, Brera (pictures). There are afew fine pictures in the Brera; among others Guido's famous'St. Peter and St. Paul, ' Guercino's 'Hagar and Abraham;' a rowof old columns which were broken and lying about till the Frenchset them upon their legs; Leonardo da Vinci's fresco, which isentirely spoilt. The view from the top of the Duomo is superb, over the boundless plain of Lombardy with the range of the Alps, and the Apennines in the distance. I like the Duomo, but I knowmy taste is execrable in architecture. I don't, however, like themixture of Italian with the Gothic--balustrades over thedoor, for instance--but I admire its tracery and laboriousmagnificence. Buonaparte went on with it (for it was neverfinished), and this Government are completing it by degrees;there will be 7, 000 statues on different parts of the outside, and there are already 4, 500. St. Charles Borromeo's tomb is verysplendid, and for five francs they offered to uncover the glasscase in which his much esteemed carcase reposes, and show me thevenerable mummy, but I could not afford it. The entrance to Milanfrom Venice, and the Corso, are as handsome as can be. The Operais very bad, but the Scala is not open, and none of the goodsingers are here. 

Varese, June 26th, 1830 {p. 414}

Left Milan at six o'clock on the 24th, and got to Como afterdark. Embarked in the steam boat at eight yesterday morning, wentas far as Cadenebbia, where I got out, saw the Villa Sommariva, then crossed over and went round the point of Bellagio to see theopening of the Lake of Lecco, turned back to the Villa Melzi, sawthe house and gardens, and then went back to dine at Cadenebbia, and waited for the steam boat, which returned at four, and gotback to Como at half-past six. Nothing can surpass the beauty ofall this scenery, or the luxury of the villas, particularlyMelzi, which is the best house, and contains abundance of shade, flowers, statues, and shrubberies. The owners live very littlethere, and principally in winter, when, they say, it is seldomcold in this sheltered spot. The late Count Melzi was Governor ofMilan under Napoleon, and used to feast the Viceroy here. He oncegave him a _fête_, and had all the mountain tops illuminated, ofwhich the effect must have been superb. 

_Evening. Top of the Simplon. _--Set off at five from Varese, travelled very slowly through a very pretty road to Navero, whereI crossed the Lago Maggiore in a boat, and landed at the IsolaBella, which is very fine in its way, though rather flattered inits pictures. The house is large and handsome, and there is acurious suite of apartments fitted up with pebbles, spars, andmarble, a suite of habitable grottoes. The garden and terracesare good specimens of formal grandeur, and as the CountBorromeo's son is a botanist, they are full of flowers and shrubsof all sorts and climates. 

 Whatever fruits in different climes are found, That proudly rise or humbly court the ground; Whatever sweets salute the northern sky With vernal flowers, that blossom, but to die; These, here disporting, own the kindred soil, Nor ask luxuriance from the planter's toil. 

The expense of keeping this place up is immense, but the owner isvery rich. He lives there during August and September, and hasfifteen other country houses. All the island belongs to him, andis occupied by the palace and gardens, except some fishermen'shuts, which are held by a sort of feudal tenure. They live thereas his vassals, fishing for him, rowing him about the lake, andtheir children and wives alone are employed in the gardens. Itwas built about 150 years ago by a younger son (a nephew of SanCarlo), who was richer than his elder brother. He was his ownarchitect, and planned both house and garden, but never completedhis designs. The cost was enormous, but if he had lived andfinished it all, he would have spent four millions more. There isa laurel in the garden, the largest in Europe, two trees growingfrom one stem, one nine and the other ten feet round and eightyhigh; under this tree Buonaparte dined, as he came into Italy, before the battle of Marengo, and with a knife he cut the word'Battaglia' on the bark, which has since been stripped off, orhas grown out--so the gardeners said at least. Breakfasted atBaveno, which is the best inn I have seen in Italy. The road fromBaveno is exceedingly beautiful, but on the whole I am ratherdisappointed with the Simplon, though it is very wild and grand;but I am no longer struck with the same admiration at the sightof mountains that I was when I entered Savoy and saw them for thefirst time. I walked the last thirteen miles of the ascent tothis place, and found one of the best dinners I ever tasted, orone which my hunger made appear such. 

[Page Head: RETURN TO ENGLAND]

Geneva, June 29th, 1830 {p. 415}

Got here last night, and found twenty letters at least. I onlythink of getting home as fast as I can. Left the Simplon intorrents of rain, which lasted the whole day. The descent isuncommonly grand, wild, savage, and picturesque, the Swiss sidethe finest. All along the valley of the Rhone fine scenery; andyesterday, in the most delightful weather I ever saw, the drivefrom Martigny, along the lake and under the mountains, is asbeautiful as possible. The approach to Geneva is gay, but MontBlanc looks only very white, and not very tall, which is owing tothe level from which he is seen. They tell me it has never ceasedraining here, while on the other side of the Alps hardly a drophas fallen. Only three rainy days while I was in Italy--one atVenice, one at Rome, and a couple of halves elsewhere. 

_Evening. _--Passed the whole day driving about Geneva, in Bautt'sshop, and at the Panorama of Switzerland. Dined with Newton, drove round the environs by Sécheron; a great appearance ofwealth and comfort, much cultivation, no beggars, and none of thehouses tumbling down and deserted. Altogether I like theappearance of the place, though in a great hurry to get away fromit. We had a storm of thunder and lightning in the evening, whichwas neither violent nor long, but I had the pleasure of hearing

 Jura answer from her misty shroud Back to the joyous Alps, that call on her aloud. 

Mont Blanc was hid in clouds all day, but the mountains owe mesome grudge. Mont Blanc won't show his snows, nor would Vesuviushis fires. It was dark when I crossed the Cenis, and raining whenI descended the Simplon. 

[Page Head: DEATH OF GEORGE IV. ]

Paris, July 3rd, 1830 {p. 416}

Got here last night, after a fierce journey of sixty-three hoursfrom Geneva, only stopping two hours for breakfast; but by nevertouching anything but bread and coffee I was neither heated nortired. The Jura Mountains, which they say are so tedious, werethe pleasantest part of the way, for the road is beautiful allthrough them, not like the Alps, but like a hilly, wooded park. It rained torrents when I set out, but soon cleared up, and whenI got to the top of the first mountain, I saw a mass of cloudsrise like a curtain and unveil the whole landscape of Geneva, lake, mountains, and country--very fine sight. We heard of theKing's death in the middle of the night. 

Calais, July 6th, 1830 {p. 417}

Voilà qui est fini. Got here last night, and found the Governmentpacket only goes out five days a week, and not to-day. I am verysorry my journey is all over, but glad to find myself in Englandagain--that is, when I get there. I saw Lord Stuart at Paris, just breaking up his establishment and sending his wife off tothe Pyrenees. Heard all the news of London and Paris, such as itwas. Not a soul left in Paris, which was like a dead city. I onlyheard that, notwithstanding the way the elections are goingagainst the Government, Polignac is in high spirits. The King ofFrance was very civil about the death of our King, [14] and, without waiting, as is usual, for the announcement of the eventby the English Ambassador, he ordered the Court into mourningupon the telegraphic account reaching Paris. 

 [14] [George IV. Died at Windsor on the 26th of June, 1830. ]

Here is the end of my brief but most agreeable expedition, probably the only one I shall ever make. However this may be, Ihave gained thus much at least--

 A consciousness remains that it has left, Deposited upon the silent shore Of memory, images, and precious thoughts, That shall not die, and cannot be destroyed. 

 NOTE. 

 _MR. GREVILLE'S CONNEXION WITH THE TURF. _

Frequent references will be remarked in these volumes to theconnexion of their author with the Turf, which was his favouriteamusement, and to his position as an influential member of theJockey Club. It may, therefore, be worth while to record in thisplace the principal incidents in his racing career; and we aretempted, in spite of the strange and incorrect phraseology of thewriter, to borrow the following notice of them from the pages of'Bailey's Magazine, ' published soon after Mr. Greville's death:--

'Though the Warwick family have long been identified with thesports of the field, it is fair to assume that Mr. Greville'slove for the turf came from his mother's side, as the Portlands, especially the late Duke, have always been amongst the strongestsupporters of the national sport, and raced, as became theirposition in society. That Mr. Greville took to racing early maybe imagined when we state he saw his first Derby in 1809, whenthe Duke of Grafton's Pope won it, beating five others. At thatperiod he was barely fifteen years of age, and the impression thesight of the race made upon him at the time was very great, andit was rekindled more strongly when, in 1816, travelling with hisfather and mother to Ickworth, the seat of the Marquis ofBristol, he stopped at Newmarket and saw Invalid and Deceiver runa match on the heath; and subsequently he saw a great sweepstakescome off between Spaniard, Britannia, and Pope, which the latterwon. Four years elapse, and, as a proof that the lad we havedescribed had kept pace with the times, we find him selected tomanage the racing establishment of the late Duke of York, on thedeath of Mr. Warwick Lake. The first step taken by Mr. Grevilleon being installed in office was to weed the useless ones and theragged lot; and with the aid of Butler (father of the late Frankand the present William Butler) he managed so well that in hissecond year he won the Derby for him with Moses. As the Duke'saffairs at that time were in anything but a flourishingcondition, Mr. Greville did not persuade him to back his horsefor much money; still his Royal Highness won a fair stake, andwas not a little pleased at the result. He likewise carried offthe Claret with him the following year. With Banker, who was avery useful horse at all distances, he won for him many goodraces; and, by a reference to the "Calendars" of the day, it willbe seen the Duke won in his turn, if he did not carry all beforehim. To reproduce the names of his horses now would not be worthwhile, as from the effluxion of time the interest in them hasceased. The first animal in the shape of a race-horse that Mr. Greville ever possessed was a filly by Sir Harry Dimsdale, whichhe trained in the Duke's stable with a few others of no greatstanding. 

'Circumstances with which the world are familiar rendering theretirement of the Duke of York requisite, his stud came to thehammer, and Mr. Greville came to the assistance of his uncle, theDuke of Portland, who trained with Prince. With the Duke Mr. Greville remained some little time, and afterwards becameconfederate with Lord Chesterfield, who was at that time comingout, and was in great force with his Zinganee, Priam, Carew, Glaucus, and other crack horses. During this time he had fewhorses of any great account of his own, although his confederatehad nothing to complain of in the shape of luck. At thetermination of this confederacy Mr. Greville entered upon anotherwith his cousin, Lord George Bentinck, who, from his father'shostility to his racing, was unable to run horses in his ownname. The extent of this stud was so great that we are unable todeal with it at the same time with the horses of the subject ofour memoir, who can scarcely be said to have come across a reallysmashing good mare until he met with Preserve, with whom, in1834, he won the Clearwell and Criterion, and in the followingyear the One Thousand Guineas, besides running second for theOaks to Queen of Trumps. A difference of opinion as to thepropriety of starting Preserve for the Goodwood Stakes led totheir separation, and for a time they were on very bad terms, butby the aid of mutual friends a reconciliation was effected. Fromwhat Preserve did for him, Mr. Greville was induced to dip morefreely into the blood, or, as old John Day would have said, totake to the family, and accordingly he bought Mango, her ownbrother, of Mr. Thornhill, who bred him. Mango only ran once as atwo-year-old, when, being a big, raw colt, he was not quickenough on his legs for the speedy Garcia filly of Col. Peel andJohn Day's Chapeau d'Espagne, and was easily beaten. In thespring Mango made so much improvement that Mr. Greville backedhim for the Derby for a good stake; and had he been able to havecontinued his preparation at Newmarket, and been vanned to Epsom, as is the custom in the present day, there is little doubt hewould have won; but having to walk all the way from Newmarket, hecould not afford to lose the days that were thus consumed, andalthough he ran forward he did not get a place. That this view ofthe case is not a sanguine one is proved by his beating Chapeaud'Espagne, the second for the Oaks, for the Ascot Derby, andwithin an hour afterwards bowling over Velure, the third in thatrace, for William the Fourth's Plate. On the Cup Day he likewisebeat the Derby favourite, Rat-Trap, over the Old Mile. AtStockbridge, in a sweepstakes of 100 sovs. Each, with thirteensubscribers, he frightened all the field away with the exceptionof Wisdom, whom he beat cleverly, and then he remained atDilly's, at Littleton, to be prepared for the St. Leger. Havingstood his work well, John Day brought over The Drummer andChapeau d'Espagne from Stockbridge to try him on Winchesterrace-course. Both Mr. Greville and Lord George Bentinck hadreason to be satisfied with what Mango did in his gallop on thatmorning, and the latter backed him very heavily for therace--much more so, indeed, than his owner. Mr. Greville wasanxious to have put up John Day, but the Duke of Cleveland havingclaimed him for Henriade, he was obliged to substitute his sonSam, a very rising lad, with nerves of iron and the coolest ofheads. The race was a memorable one, inasmuch as William Scott, who was on Epirus, the first favourite, fell into the ditch soonafter starting, and Prince Warden running over him and strikinghim with his hind leg, he sustained a severe fracture of thecollar-bone. Henriade also came down about a distance from homefrom a dog crossing the course. John Day, however, soon rightedhim, but the _contretemps_ spoilt his chance. At the stand therewere but three in the struggle--The Doctor, Abraham Newland, andMango. The two former seemed to be making a match of it, and itlooked impossible for Mango to get up; but a slight openingpresenting itself, which was not visible to the spectators, SamDay, with a degree of resolution which justifies the attributeswe have before ascribed to him, sent his horse through with sucha terrific rush that his breeches were nearly torn off his boots, and won by a neck. 

'After the race Lord George, who was a very heavy winner, gaveHonest John £500 for his trial with the Drummer; the like sum toSam Day for having ridden him better than he was ridden in theDerby, and an equivalent proportion to Montgomery Dilly forpreparing him better than Prince for the same race. Mango wasafterwards sent to Newmarket for the St. Leger, and "Craven, " whothen edited the "Sporting Magazine, " having asserted that Mr. Greville had caused it to be reported that Mango was lame to gethim back in the markets for that race, he called on him toapologise for the statement, which proving, by the volunteeredtestimony of Lord George Bentinck, Colonel Anson, and AdmiralRous, to be wholly without foundation, the writer in questionmade Mr. Greville the fullest _amende honorable_. Mango only wononce again as a four-year-old, when he carried off a sweepstakesof 300 sovereigns at Newmarket, beating Chapeau d'Espagne andAdrian. Having thus established himself with Dilly, owing to Mr. Payne, with whom he had become confederate, training atLittleton, Mr. Greville made no change until Dilly gave up, whenhe continued his confidence to his brother William Dilly, whosucceeded him on his retirement from Lord Glasgow. 

'It was some few years before Mr. Greville had another goodhorse, at least one that is worth dwelling upon, and Alarm mustbe considered the legitimate successor to Mango. This colt Mr. Greville purchased of his breeder, Captain George Delmé, andtried him good enough to win the Derby in 1845 in a canter, evenin the face of such animals as Idas and The Libel. But just priorto starting an accident occurred by which all Mr. Greville'shopes were destroyed; for The Libel flying at Alarm verysavagely, he jumped the chains, threw Nat who lay for a timeinsensible on the ground, and ran away. He was, however, sooncaught and remounted, and although much cut about ran forwardenough to justify the idea that but for his accident he must havewon, as no other animal could have got through the Cambridgeshirewith 7st. 10lb. On him so easily as he did in a field of suchquality as he met. In the following year Alarm made some amendsfor his Epsom failure, by winning the Ascot Cup, as well as theOrange Cup at Goodwood, the latter after a terrific race withJericho. He also, at Newmarket in the autumn, won three greatmatches in succession, viz. With Oakley, the Bishop of Romford'scob, and Sorella. Going through the "Calendar, " Cariboo is thenext most noteworthy animal we come across, for it will berecollected he ran second to Canezou for the Goodwood Cup, havingbeen lent to make running for her. But it is almost needless toadd that, had Mr. Greville known him to be as good as he was, hewould have been started on his own account, in which case the cupin all probability would have gone to Bruton Street instead of toKnowsley. Continuing our track through the "Calendar, " we lighton a better year for Mr. Greville, in 1852, when he had reallytwo good animals in Adine and Frantic. With the former, at York, he had perhaps the best week he ever had in his life, having wonboth the Yorkshire Oaks and Ebor Handicap with her, besidesbeating Daniel O'Rourke with Frantic, who two months before hadcarried off the Union Cup for him at Manchester. The followingyear Adine did a good thing for him by winning the GoodwoodStakes, and two years afterwards he again won that race withQuince. 

'Between Adine and Quince's years came Mr. Greville's last goodhorse, Muscovite, whom he thought impossible to lose theMetropolitan, and backed him accordingly. He was much put out, however, by old John Day telling him he had no chance with hismare Virago. At first Mr. Greville was incredulous at what Johntold him, and made him acquainted with the form of Muscovite. This made not the slightest impression on the old man, who merelywent on repeating Mr. Greville must back Virago for £500, and thevalue of the advice was proved by the mare beating the horse veryeasily. Muscovite's career for a time was a very unfortunate one, for when in Dockeray's stable he was so "shinned" that his chancefor the Goodwood Stakes was completely out, and his trainer, whocould not discover the offender, and who was terribly annoyed atthe circumstance, begged he might be transferred to WilliamDilly's, at Littleton. While there he was betted against for theCaesarewitch in the same determined manner as he had been for hisother races, and when he arrived at Newmarket, and stood in Nat'sstables, which were perfectly impregnable, there was no cessationin the opposition to him, although his trainer told everybodythat unless he was shot on the Heath, which he could not prevent, he would walk in. This he did, and the crash he produced is stillfresh in the public recollection; but it is creditable to thebookmaker who laid the most money against him to state that outof £23, 000 which he lost, he paid £16, 000 down on the spot, anact which procured him time for the remainder. 

'Since Muscovite, who is now at the stud at Newmarket, Mr. Greville has had no animal that has done a really good thing forhim, though Anfield made another determined attempt at theGoodwood Stakes this year; and having, at Lord Ribblesdale's saleof General Peel's horses, purchased Orlando, and added him to hisestablishment at Hampton Court, he has turned his attentionperhaps more to breeding than racing. For some time his returnswere very large, but of late, from the age of Orlando, and fromgetting some of his stock so small, they have diminished inamount, although the old horse looks as fresh as a four-year-old, and preserves all that fine symmetry for which he was remarkableboth in and out of training. Latterly Mr. Greville, from beingthe confederate of Mr. Payne, has trained with Alec Taylor atFyfield; but with Godding he has generally two or three atNewmarket. 

'In turning to Mr. Greville in his private capacity we hardlyknow how to treat him, for his is a nature that shrinks fromhaving his good deeds brought before the glare of the public eye. No man, ever so high or low, we believe, ever sought his adviceand assistance in vain; and to no one individual, probably, haveso many and such various difficulties been submitted. Neither canwe remember a new trial or even an appeal demanded by those whohad sought his counsel. Beloved by his friends, and feared by hisopponents, Mr. Greville will ever be considered one of the mostremarkable men that have lent lustre to the English turf. '

 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 

 INDEX. 

Abercromby, Right Hon. James, proposed as Speaker, ii. 333; Master of the Mint, iii. 95; proposed as Speaker, 201; the Speakership, 204; elected Speaker, 213

Aberdeen, Earl of, Duchy of Lancaster, i. 124; motion about Belgium, ii. 238

Achmet Pacha, concludes a treaty with Russia, iii. 69

Adair, Right Hon. Sir Robert, sworn in Privy Councillor, i. 136

Addington, Henry Unwin, recalled from Madrid, iii. 14

Address, proposed amendment to the, iii. 217

Adelaide, Queen, ii. 7; at the Ancient Concert, 133; mobbed in the City, 141; audience of, about the crown, 179; coronation of, 190; Lord Howe, 338; yacht, iii. 99; return of, 125; illness of, 125; supposed to be with child, 198, 199, 201

Adrian's Villa, i. 377

Agar Ellis, _see_ Dover, Lord

Alava, General, and the Duke of Cumberland, iii. 275

Albani, Cardinal, influence of, i. 310; conversation with, 373; interview with, 380

Albano, i. 331

Alexander, Emperor of Russia, death of, i. 78; coronation of, described by Talleyrand, ii. 185

Allen, Dr. , Bishop of Ely, iii. 363

Allen, John, iii. 135; unbelief of, 324

Althorp, Viscount, proposed as Chairman of the Finance Committee, i. 120; Chancellor of the Exchequer, ii. 66, introduces the budget, 114; leader of the House of Commons, 116, 200; letter to Attwood, 205, 206; hurries on the Irish Church Bill, 364; as Chancellor of the Exchequer, iii. 2; arrested by the Sergeant-at-Arms, 56; financial statement, 60; defects as leader, 62; summons a meeting of the supporters of Government, 92; resigns, 101; popularity of, 105; Chancellor of the Exchequer under Lord Melbourne, 113; succeeds his father as Earl Spencer, 140

Alvanley, Lord, duel with Morgan O'Connell, ii. 257; on Irish affairs, 348

America, dispute with France, iii. 322

Anglesey, Marquis of, recalled, i. 149; entry into Dublin, ii. 99; disputes with O'Connell, 106

Antwerp, threatened bombardment of, by the Dutch, ii. 321; French army marches to, 329

Arbuthnot, Right Hon. Charles, nickname 'Gosh, ' i. 103; conversation with, on the Duke of Wellington's Administration, ii. 51; conversation with, at Oatlands, 170

Arbuthnot, Mrs. , death of, iii. 116

Arkwright, Sir Richard, fortunes of, iii. 50

Arkwright, Mrs. , visit to, iii. 49

Arms Bill, the, ii. 196

Arnold, Dr. , proposed for a bishopric, iii. 325

Artevelde, Philip van, iii. 114; discussed at Holland House, 128

Ascot Races, 1831, ii. 147; 1833, 375

Attwood, chairman of the Birmingham Union, ii. 205, 206; proclamation against, 215

Auckland, Lord, Board of Trade, ii. 66; First Lord of the Admiralty, iii. 88, 113; on the state of affairs, 238; First Lord of the Admiralty in Lord Melbourne's second Administration, 256

Augustus, Prince, of Prussia, ii. 319

Austin, Mr. John, his work on Jurisprudence, iii. 138

Austin, Mr. Charles, ii. 306

Aylmer, Lord, recalled from Canada, iii. 394; the King's address to him, 395

Bachelor, valet to the Duke of York and to King George IV. , i. 142, 143; conversation with, ii. 30

Bagot, Lord, conduct to Lord Harrowby, ii. 253

Baiae, Bay of, i. 341

Baring, House of, ii. 53

Baring, Right Hon. Alexander, offered the Chancellorship of the Exchequer, ii. 299; proposes a compromise with the ex-Ministers, 300

Baring, Francis, Chairman of the West India Committee, iii. 279

Barnes, Mr. , editor of the 'Times, ' ii. 97, 214; negotiations with, for supporting the Government, iii. 155, 156, 157; dines with Lord Lyndhurst, 167, 169; alarm of, at the prevailing spirit, 188

Barri, Madame du, ii. 219

Barry, Dr. , sent to Sunderland, ii. 216; report on cholera, 217

Bath, Chapter of the Order of the, i. 254

Bathurst, Earl, Lord President, i. 124; death of, iii. 115; character of, 115

Bathurst, Countess, conversation with, ii. 62

Bathurst, Hon. William, appointed Clerk of the Council, ii. 61, 86; delay in appointment of, 74; sworn in Clerk of the Council, 94

Bathurst, Lieut. -Colonel Hon. Seymour, death of, iii. 79

Baudrand, General, ii. 33; reception of, 38

Bazaar, in Hanover Square, ii. 383

Beauclerc, Lord Aurelius, dances a country dance with the King, ii. 341

Belgian question, the, settlement of, ii. 314

Belgium, revolution in, ii. 41; affairs of, 44; unsettled state of, 69; deputation from, 160; fortresses of, 169; invaded by the Dutch, 175; French army refuses to leave, 181; end of hostilities with the Dutch, 184; Conference, 1832, 321

Belmore, Earl of, Governor of Jamaica, i. 140, 147

Belvoir Castle, iii. 46

Benson, Canon, sermon at the Temple Church, ii. 113

Bentinck, Right Hon. Lord William, desires to be appointed Governor-General of India, i. 59; address to the electors of Glasgow, iii. 339, 343; qualities of, 339; inscription on monument in honour of, 340

Bentinck, Lord Henry, quarrel with Sir Roger Gresley, ii. 148

Bergara, Convention of, iii. 259

Berri, Duchesse de, in La Vendée, ii. 322

Berry, Miss, iii. 58

Berryer, M. , iii. 379; appearance of, 380

Best, Right Hon. William Draper, _see_ Lord Wynford

Bethnal Green, distress in, ii. 261

Bexley, Lord, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, i. 95

Bickersteth, Henry, _see_ Lord Langdale

Blacas, M. De, favourite of Louis XVIII. , ii. 305

Black Book, the, ii. 79

Bloomfield, Sir Benjamin, dismissal of, i. 55

Blount, Rev. Mr. , sermon, iii. 12

Body-snatchers, ii. 227

Bologna, i. 402

Bonaparte, Emperor Napoleon, in the 100 days, i. 24; campaigns of, described by Marshal Marmont, ii. 35

Bonaparte, Louis Napoleon, Strasburg attempt, iii. 381

Bonaparte, Joseph, at dinner at Lady Cork's, iii. 18

Bonaparte, Lucien, introduced to the Duke of Wellington, iii. 11; at dinner at Lady Cork's, 18

Boodle's, dinner at, ii. 124

Bosanquet, Right Hon. Sir John Bernard, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 30; Judge of the King's Bench, 71

Boswell, 'Life of Johnson, ' anecdotes lost, ii. 105

Boulogne, iii. 388

Bourbon, Duke de, death of, ii. 50

Bourmont, Marshal de, marches on Lisbon, iii. 25

Bourne, Right Hon. Sturges, Secretary of State for the Home Department, i. 95

Bowring, Dr. , sent to Paris, ii. 219; satire of Moore on, 219; career of, 220

Bradshaw, Mrs. , acting of, at Bridgewater House, ii. 353

Brescia, i. 412

Bretby, visit to, iii. 327; Chesterfield Papers, 327

Bridgewater House, dramatic performances at, iii. 352, 355

Bridgewater Election, iii. 398

Brighton, the Court at, 1832, ii. 334; races, 1835, iii. 284

Bristol, riots at, ii. 208

Broglie, Duke de. Conduct of, iii. 386

Brooks's Club, iii. 320

Brougham, Lord, attack upon, in 'Quarterly Review, ' i. 16; speech on the Queen's trial, 35; letter to the Queen, 57; character of, 117; qualities of, ii. 18, 33; appointed Lord High Chancellor, 65; discontent of, 65; social qualities of, 69; anecdote of, 106; quarrel with Sugden, 106; correspondence with Southey on rewards to literary men, 112; speech on Chancery Reform, 118; domestic kindness of, 120; origin of representation of Yorkshire, 125; as Lord Chancellor, 128; at the Horse Guards, 129; as a judge, 145; at dinner at Hanbury's brewery, 148; at the British Museum, 149; claims the old Great Seal, 188; intention of sitting at the Privy Council, 223; speech on the Russian Loan, 244; quarrel with Sugden, 312; anecdote of, 314; Bill for creating a new Court of Appeal, 342; Bill objected to, 344; Judicial Committee of the Privy Council Bill, 365; sits on the case of Drax _v. _ Grosvenor, 370; as Chancellor, iii. 22; anecdotes of Queen Caroline, 36; and Sir William Horne, 67; meets Sir Thomas Denman in Bedfordshire, 71; judicial changes, 71; defence of himself, 72; apology for, 76; speech on Lord Wynford's Bill for the observance of the Sabbath, 83; on the Pluralities Bill, 86; on the Irish Church, 94; and the 'Times, ' 96; Lord Chancellor in Lord Melbourne's Administration, 113; and Lord Westmeath, 119; conduct in the Westmeath case, 119, 124; versatility of, 121; lines applied to, 121; Greek epigrams, 121; ambition of, 122; in Scotland, 133; communicates to the 'Times' the fall of Lord Melbourne's first Administration, 145; resigns the Great Seal, 156; takes leave of the Bar, 156; asks for the Chief Baronship, 157; anecdote, 232; conduct of, in the case of Swift _v. _ Kelly, 260, 267; on the London University Charter, 261; judgment in the case of Swift _v. _ Kelly, 274; on the Corporation Bill, 286; violence in the House of Lords, 303; illness of, 329; and Macaulay, 337, 338; at Queen Victoria's first Council, 408

Brummel, 'Beau, ' i. 282

Brussels, disturbances at, ii. 40

Buccleuch, Duke of, subscription to election expenses, iii. 182

Budget, the, 1831, ii. 113

Buller, James, death of, ii. 59

Bülow, Baron von, on English affairs, iii. 211

Bulwer, Sir Edward Lytton, iii. 348

Bunsen, Baron, i. 315; career of, 327; on Roman affairs, 389

Burdett, Sir Francis, returned for Westminster, 1837, iii. 398

Burghersh, Lord, at Florence, i. 299; amateur opera, 301

Burghersh, Lady, intercedes for a prisoner at the Old Bailey, ii. 85

Burghley, party at, iii. 53

Burke, Right Hon. Edmund, writings of, iii. 209; compared with Mackintosh, 314

Burke, Sir G. , conversation with, on O'Connell, ii. 111

Buxton, Fowell, dinner at the brewery, ii. 148

Byng, Right Hon. George, Lord of the Treasury, iii. 95

Byron, Lord, Moore's Life of, i. 272; character of, 273

Cambridge, H. R. H. The Duchess of, reception of, i. 2

Cambridge, University of, petition for the admission of Dissenters to the, iii. 72, 75

Campbell, Sir John, Solicitor-General, ii. 333; Attorney-General, iii. 141

Canada, affairs in, iii. 350

Canning, Right Hon. Sir Stratford, Ambassador at St. Petersburg, ii. 352, 357; anecdote of, iii. 39; offered the Governor-Generalship of Canada, 234

Canning, Right Hon. George, Foreign Secretary, i. 55; correspondence with the King on taking office, 59; forms an Administration (1827), 93, 95; death of, 103; anecdotes of, 104; industrious habits of, 106; memoirs of, 263, 272; despatch in verse, 326; sagacity of, ii. 42; conversation with the King, 102; correspondence with the Duke of Wellington, 103; coldness to the Duke of Wellington, 103; anecdote of, 125; negotiation with the Whigs, 170; influence over Lord Liverpool, 172; in favour with the King, 172; on Reform, iii. 135; and King George IV. , 137

Canning, Lady, visit to, ii. 101; authorship of pamphlet, iii. 40

Canning, Mr. Charles, offered a Lordship of the Treasury, iii. 202

Cannizzaro, Duchess of, iii. 11; crowns the Duke of Wellington, 406

Canterbury, Archbishop of, indecision of the, ii. 250, 262, 263; importance of support of the, 252, 253

Canterbury, Viscount, declines to go to Canada, iii. 234

Capo di Monte, i. 335

Capua, i. 360

Cardinals, the, i. 309

Carlisle, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 95; iii. 88

Carlists, the, in Spain, iii. 66

Carlos, Don, in London, iii. 98

Carlow election, iii. 348

Carnarvon, Earl of, refuses to move the address in the House of Lords, iii. 202

Caroline, Queen, return of, i. 28; trial of, 31, 35; anecdote of, iii. 37

Carvalho, Minister of Finance to Dom Pedro, iii. 93

Catacombs, the, _see_ Rome

Catholic emancipation, i. 163, 172, 174

Catholic Relief Bill, excitement concerning the, i. 180; debates on, _see_ Lords and Commons

Cato Street Conspiracy, the, i. 26

Cayla, Madame du, i. 71; dinner at the Duke of Wellington's, 214; Béranger's verses on, 215; favourite of Louis XVIII. , ii. 306

Cenis, the Mont, i. 287

Champollion, Jean François, death of, ii. 307

Chapeau de Paille, the, purchase of, ii. 125

Chapel, near Holland House, unable to be consecrated, iii. 200

Charles I. , King, head of, discovered at Windsor, ii. 168; executioner of, iii. 132

Charles X. , King, of France, arrival of in England, ii. 31; at Lulworth Castle, 33; off Cowes, 34

Charlotte, Queen, illness of, i. 2, 3

Charlotte, H. R. H. The Princess, anecdotes of, ii. 319

Chartres, H. R. H. The Duc de, arrival of, i. 208

Chatham, Earl of, death of, iii. 316

Chatsworth, hospitality at, i. 237; charade at, 238; party at, ii. 51

Chesterfield Papers, the, iii. 327

Chobert, the 'Fire King, ' i. 276

Cholera, the, in Russia, ii. 57; account of, 150; preventive measures against, 154, 216; effect on trade of, 156; spread of, 161; alarm about, 169; at Berlin, 192; at Sunderland, 208, 210; at Marseilles, 221; on the decline, 224; near Edinburgh, 240; in London, 258, 259; in Bethnal Green, 261; account of, 278; diminution of, 285; in Paris, 287; alarm in London, 309, 311

Christina, Queen, of Spain, iii. 66, 72; reported flight of, 360; courage of, 365

Christmas trees, introduced by Princess Lieven at Panshanger, i. 259

Church Bill, the, Committee on, iii. 199

Church Reform, iii. 206

City, the, address to the King, ii. 126; illumination in, 140; election, 1835, iii. 184, 186, 187; anxiety in the money-market, 373, 376

Civil List, the, excess of expenditure on, i. 253; for debates on, _see_ Commons, House of

Clanricarde, Marquis of, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 78

Clarence, H. R. H. The Duke of, Lord High Admiral, i. 95; removal of, from the office of Lord High Admiral, 138, 140. _See_ William IV. 

Cobbett, William, trial of, ii. 158; returned for Oldham, 335; takes his seat, 351; and Sir Robert Peel, 373

Cochrane, Lord, at Florence, i. 301; villa near Florence, 302

Codrington, Sir E. , interview with the Duke of Wellington, i. 179

Coercion Bill, the, introduced, ii. 359

Colchester Election, iii. 112

Commons, House of; Alien Bill, i. 1; Dr. Halloran's petition, 14; debate on grant to the Duke of York, 18; debates on Queen Caroline, 30, 32, 38; Small Notes Bill, 79; debates on Catholic Relief Bill, 91, 133, 166, 191; division on Catholic Relief Bill, 185; Catholic Relief Bill read a third time, 203; Regency and Civil List, ii. 45; debate on the Evesham election, 25; debate on the Civil List, 110; announcement of the Reform Bill, 110; Pension List, 111; debate on Ireland, 112; Budget of 1831, 113; proposed reductions, 118; introduction of the first Reform Bill, 121; debates on the Reform Bill, 123, 125; debate on the Timber duties, 130; debate on the Reform Bill, 131; division on the Reform Bill, 132; Government defeated, 135; scene in the House, 135; second reading of the Reform Bill, 156; Wine duties, 160; Reform Bill, Schedule A, 170; second Reform Bill, 227; debate on, and second reading of the second Reform Bill carried, 228; Reform Bill supported by the Irish Members, 239; division on the Russian Loan, 240; division on the sugar duties, 267; Reform Bill passed, 270; debates, 296; violent scene in debate on petition of the City of London, 299; Irish Tithe question, 308; debate on, 309; debate on the Address, 353; Irish Church Reform, 354; aspect of the reformed House, 360; debate on Slave Emancipation, 371; vote of confidence in the Ministers, 376; division on the Irish Church Bill, 381; vote against sinecures, iii. 13; division on Apprenticeship Clause of West India Bill, 16; disorganised state of the House, 17; Pension List, 60; business of the House, 61; debate on the Corn Laws, 68; debate on admission of Dissenters to the University, 75; debate on Repeal of the Union, 80; Pension List, 80; debate on Portugal, 82; Poor Law Bill, 83; debate on Irish Tithe Bill, 98, 99; gallery for reporters, 205; debate on the Speakership, 214; debate on the Address, 221; debate and division on amendment to the Address, 223; Malt Tax, 224; debate on appointment of Lord Londonderry, 225; Dissenters' Marriage Bill, 230; Government beaten on Chatham election, 234; state of parties in the House, 234; debate and division on Irish Church question, 240; uproar in the House, 243; Government defeated on Irish Tithe Bill, 246; debate on Irish Church Bill, 281; position of the House, 288, 291; conflict with the House of Lords, 225; debate and division on the amendment to the Address, 334; effect of division, 336; Opposition defeated, 347; division, 359; Irish Corporation Bill, 388; insult to Lord Lyndhurst, 389; debates on Irish Tithe Bill, 391; abandonment of the appropriation clauses, 393

Como, i. 414

Conroy, Sir John, ii. 190; iii. 3

Conservative Club, dinner at, ii. 327; speeches, 327

Constantine, the Grand Duke, accident to, i. 259; death of, ii. 164

Convention signed between France, England, and Holland, ii. 375

Conyngham, Marquis of, Postmaster-General, iii. 88, 113

Conyngham, Marchioness of, i. 46; wears a Crown jewel, 48; Court intrigues, 207

Conyngham, Lord Francis, i. 50

Coprogli, History of the Grand Vizier, iii. 115

Cornelius, painter, ii. 149

Coronation, the, of William IV. , decided on, ii. 156; preparations for, 157, 163, 165; estimates for, 181; disputes over the arrangements for, 187

Cottenham, Lord, Lord High Chancellor, iii. 328

Cotton, Sir Willoughby, suppresses the insurrection in Jamaica, ii. 262; on affairs in Jamaica, 380

Council, Clerk of the, Mr. Greville sworn in, i. 44; after the accession of William IV. , ii. 12; Lord Grey's Administration sworn in, 71; for the proclamation against rioters, 73; recorder's report in, 85; clerks of the, 87; scene at Council for a new Great Seal, 188

Council, Privy: suttee case before the, ii. 307; embargo on Dutch ships, 343; meeting of the, on the London University petition, iii. 80; counter petition of Oxford and Cambridge, 80

Council, Cabinet: the first of Lord Melbourne's Administration, iii. 120; the first of Sir Robert Peel's Administration, 174

Covent Garden Theatrical Fund Dinner, i. 205

Coventry, glove trade, ii. 224

Cowley, Abraham, lines from 'Ode to Solitude, ' ii. 272

Cowper, Earl, at Panshanger, ii. 229

Cowper, Countess, at Panshanger, ii. 229

Cowper, William, Life of, by Southey, iii. 134

Cradock, Colonel, sent to Charles X. , ii. 37

Crampton, Sir Philip, Irish story, i. 243

Craven, Earl of, disperses a mob, ii. 77; on the proposed new Peers, 232

Craven, General the Hon. Berkeley, suicide of, iii. 350

Crawford, William, member for the City of London, iii. 188

Creevey, Mr. , i. 235

Croker, Right Hon. John Wilson, edition of 'Boswell's Life of Johnson, ' ii. 105; reviews lost, 106

Cumberland, H. R. H. The Duke of, opposition to Catholic Relief Bill, i. 180; intrigues at Court, 222; insults Lady Lyndhurst, 222, 223; quarrel with Lord Lyndhurst, 224; disputes concerning the office of 'Gold Stick, ' ii. 5, 21

Cumberland, H. R. H. The Duchess of, i. 2

Cuvier, Baron, death of, ii. 307

Dalberg, Duke de, letter on European affairs, ii. 44

Dawson, Right Hon. George Robert, speech on Catholic Emancipation, i. 138, 200; sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 71

De Cazes, Duke, favourite of Louis XVIII. , ii. 305; Ambassador to the Court of St. James, 306

Dedel, M. , Dutch Minister at the Court of St. James, iii, 32

Denbigh, Earl of, Chamberlain to Queen Adelaide, ii. 342; sworn in Privy Councillor, 352

Denman, Lord, correspondence with the King, i. 156; sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 329; Lord Chief Justice, 330; qualities of, 331; meeting of, with Lord Brougham, in Bedfordshire, iii. 71; raised to the Peerage, 74

Derby Dilly, the, iii. 236, 237, 253

De Ros, Lord, in Rome, i. 368

De Ros, Colonel, the Hon. Arthur John Hill, death of, i. 81; character of, 82

Dickenson, Captain, trial of, by court-martial, i. 235

Diebitsch, Marshal, death of, from cholera, ii. 154

Dino, Duc de, arrest of the, i. 255

Dino, Duchesse de, ii. 57; on the state of France, 195

Discontent throughout the country, ii. 108

Disraeli, Benjamin, projects for sitting in Parliament, iii. 170

Dissenters' Marriage Bill, iii. 207, 230. For debates on, _see_ Commons, House of

Dorsetshire election, 1831, ii. 203, 207; crime in, iii. 77

Dover, Lord, resigns the Woods and Forests, ii. 109; created a Peer, 150; death of, iii. 4; character of, 4; Life of Frederick II. , 6; book on the Man in the Iron Mask, 6

Down, deanery of, iii. 70

Drax _v. _ Grosvenor, case of, ii. 224; lunacy case, 369; decision on, 375; final meeting on, 377

Drummond, Henry, mission to the Archbishop of York, iii. 333

Dublin Police Bill, iii. 333

Dudley, Earl of, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, i. 95, 124; dinner to Marshal Marmont, ii. 38; eccentricity of, 271, 272

'Duke of Milan, ' quotation from the, i. 178

Dulcken, Madam, performs before the Judicial Committee, iii. 325

Duncannon, Viscount, iii. 104; called to the House of Lords, and Secretary of State, 109; sworn in, 112; Home Secretary, 113; on O'Connell, 117; at a fire in Edward Street, 117; on the state of affairs, 196; Commissioner of Woods and Forests under Lord Melbourne, 256

Duncombe, Hon. Thomas Slingsby, maiden speech of, i. 128; petition from Barnet, ii. 255; guilty of libel, iii. 9; at Hillingdon, 123

Durham, Earl of, quarrel with Lady Jersey, ii. 119; influence over Lord Grey, 222; attack on Lord Grey at a Cabinet dinner, 226; rudeness of, 269; return from Russia, 333; violence of, 333; created an earl, 365

Dwarris, Sir Fortunatus, dinner at the house of, ii. 359

East, Sir E. Hyde, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155

Eboli, Duchesse d', ball at Naples, i. 335

Ebrington, Viscount, moves a vote of confidence in the Government, ii. 202, 204

Ebury, Lord, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 78

Egremont, Earl of, at Petworth, ii. 336; wealth of, 337; hospitality to the poor, iii. 84

Eldon, Earl of, audience of King George IV. , i. 197; speech at Apsley House, ii. 198; career of, 378; tribute to, iii. 42

Election, General, in 1830, ii. 20, 29; in 1831, 139, 141, 142, 145; in 1832, 335; in 1835, iii. 184, 189, 191, 193; results of, 195; in the counties, 198; result, 201

Eliot, Lord, return of, from Spain, iii. 259; conversation with Louis Philippe, 259

Ellenborough, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 124; letter to Sir John Malcolm, 271; on West India affairs, ii. 350; on Egypt, 351; speech on admission of Dissenters to the University, iii. 73

Ellesmere, Earl of, Irish Secretary, i. 146

Ellice, Right Hon. Edward, iii. 104; and the Colchester election, 112; Secretary for War, 113; in Paris, 379

Elliot, Frederic, letter from Canada, iii. 325

Epsom races, 1831, ii. 143; in 1833, 373

Erskine, Right Hon. Thomas, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 223; Chief Judge in Bankruptcy, 223

Escars, Duchesse d', at a party given by the Duke of Wellington, i. 214

Este, Sir Augustus d', behaviour of, ii. 194

Esterhazy, Prince Paul, conversation with, ii. 40; on Belgian affairs, 189; on the state of England, iii. 32; on affairs in Europe, 370; conversation with, 373

Europe, state of, ii. 126; in 1831, 187; in 1836, iii. 370

Evans, General de Lacy, iii. 265; reported death of, 359

Evans, the incendiary, arrest of, ii. 70

Exeter, Bishop of, correspondence with Lord Melbourne, ii. 97; interview with Lord Grey, 205; talents of, 287; ambition of, 289

Falck, Baron, ii. 15, 41

Ferdinand, Emperor, of Austria, iii. 374

Fergusson, Right Hon. Cutlar, Judge Advocate, iii. 95

Ferrara, i. 405

Fieschi conspiracy, iii. 286

Fingall, Earl of, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150

Finsbury election, 1834, Radical returned, iii. 100

Fitzclarence, Colonel George, _see_ Munster, Earl of

Fitzclarence, Lord Frederick, resigns appointment at the Tower, ii. 362

Fitzclarence, Lord Adolphus, picture of, ii. 179

Fitzclarence, Lord Augustus, at Ascot, ii. 147; picture of, 176

Fitzclarence, Lady Augusta, marriage of, iii. 363

Fitzgerald, Right Hon. Vesey, i. 150

Fitzherbert, Mrs. , death of, iii. 396; documents of, 396

Flahault, Madame de, anecdotes of Princess Charlotte, ii. 319; _salon_ of, in Paris, iii. 381

Fleury, Cardinal, ii. 347

Florence, i. 299; sights of, 300; society at, 302; sculpture, 300, 301; pictures, 303; Grand Duke, 303

Foley, Lord, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 84; Lord-Lieutenant of Worcestershire, 84; at St. James's, 297

Fonblanque, Albany, iii. 348

Forester, Right Hon. Colonel Cecil, resigns his appointment as Groom of the Bedchamber, ii. 118

Forfar election, 1835, iii. 197

Fox, Mrs. Lane, accompanies the Prince of Orange to Gravesend, ii. 133; receives the Cabinet Ministers, iii. 140

Fox, Right Hon. Charles James, described by Talleyrand, ii. 344

Fox, W. J. , Unitarian minister, sermon, iii. 43

France, state of affairs in, i. 284; appearance of the country, 287; impending crisis in 1830, 369; events in 1830, ii. 17; revolution, 19; Duke of Orleans ascends the throne, 26; political prospects, 26; reconstruction of the Constitution, 28; army ordered to Belgium, 178; army in Belgium, 181; seizure of Portuguese ships, 182, 184; republican tendencies of, 187; state of the country, 1831, 195; weakness of the Government of Louis Philippe, 322; dispute with America, iii. 322; state of the country, 382

Francis, Sir Philip, handwriting of, i. 234

Franklin, Benjamin, ii. 185

Franz Joseph, Archduke, iii. 374

Frascati, convent at, i. 305; dinner at, 305; visit to, 390

Gallatin, Albert, i. 257

Gambier, Lord, proxy of, ii. 286

Garrick, David, anecdotes of ii. 316

Gell, Sir William, at Rome, i. 372, 375

Geneva, i. 415

Genoa, i. 292; palaces, 293, 295; churches, 294; tomb of Andrew Doria, 296

George III. , death of, i. 23; will, 64; jewels and property, 65; dislike of the Duke of Richmond, iii. 129

George IV. , illness of, i. 23; at the Pavilion, 49; interview with, 91; health and habits of, 143; violent dislike to the Catholic Relief Bill, 153, 181; character of, 155; personal habits of, 189; interview with the Lord Chancellor, the Duke of Wellington, and Sir Robert Peel, 201; health of, 206; racing interests of, 212; anecdotes concerning, 216; eyesight affected, 233, 236; courage of, 236; conduct in reference to Mr. Denman, 250; illness of, 368; death of, 417; funeral of, ii. 4; sale of wardrobe, 23; details of last illness, 30; anecdotes concerning, 189

Gérard, Marshal, reported resignation of, ii. 45; ordered to Belgium, 178

Gibson, John, R. A. , at Rome, i. 383

Gladstone, William Ewart, West India Committee, iii. 280

Glenelg, Lord, President of the Board of Trade, i. 124; Board of Control, ii. 66, iii. 113; Colonial Secretary in Lord Melbourne's second Administration, 256; and the King, 276

'Glenfinlas' performed at Bridgewater House, iii. 353, 355

Glengall, Earl of, comedy by the, i. 249

Glengall, Countess of, ii. 85

Gloucester, H. R. H. The Duke of, ii. 8

Goderich, Viscount, Small Notes Bill, i. 79; Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs and War, 95; sent for by the King, 107; scene at Windsor, 108; Administration of, formed, 108; resignation of, 115; returns to office, 116; Ministry dissolved, 120; Colonial Secretary, ii. 66; Lord Privy Seal, 365; created an earl, 367; invested with the Order of the Garter, 367

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, death of, ii. 307

Goodwood, ii. 182; in 1833, iii. 20

Gorhambury, party at, ii. 188

'Goriot, Le Père, ' iii. 378

Goulburn, Right Hon. Henry, Chancellor of the Exchequer, i. 124

Graham, Right Hon. Sir James, First Lord of the Admiralty, ii. 66; elevation of, 90; remarks on, 91; resignation of, iii. 88; declines to join the Peel Administration, 176; conservative spirit of, 249; on the crisis of 1835, 249; joins the Opposition, 272

Grange, The, attacked by a mob, ii. 68

Grant, Right Hon. Charles, _see_ Glenelg, Lord

Granville, Earl, Ambassador in Paris, iii. 385

Granville, Countess, i. 10; quarrel with M. Thiers, iii. 380

Greece, policy of the English Government towards, i. 255

Greenwich, dinner at, iii. 1

Grenville, Thomas, conduct during the riots of 1780, iii. 129

Gresley, Sir Roger, quarrel with Lord H. Bentinck, ii. 148

Greville, Charles, sen. , death of, ii. 318

Greville, Mrs. , 'Ode to Indifference, ' ii. 319

Greville, Algernon, private secretary to the Duke of Wellington, iii. 163

Grey, Earl, hostility to the Government, i. 100; forms an Administration, 1830, ii. 64, 66; First Lord of the Treasury, 66; at dinner at Lord Sefton's, 69; nepotism of, 78; character of, 88; relations with Lord Lyndhurst, 88; lays the Reform Bill before the King, 109; weakness of Government in the House of Commons, 116; remarks on Administration of, 137; invested with the Order of the Garter, 146; at dinner at Hanbury's Brewery, 149; attacked on his foreign policy, 178; on Belgian affairs, 178; attacked by Lord Durham, 226; proposed new Peers, 230; altered conduct of, 232; reluctance to make new Peers, 247; conversation with, 248; interview with Lord Harrowby and Lord Wharncliffe, 259; minute of compromise with Lord Harrowby and Lord Wharncliffe, 260; speech on Ancona, 269; speech at the close of the Reform debate, 288; continued efforts for a compromise, 291; Government defeated in committee, 293; resignation of Administration of, 294; resumes office with his colleagues, 300; remarks on the members of the Administration of, 322; embarrassment of Government, 369; instance of readiness of, iii. 10; on Portuguese affairs, 21; compared with the Duke of Wellington, 73; changes in the Administration of, 88, 90, 91; situation of, in the crisis of 1834, 91; letter to Lord Ebrington, 92; weakness of the Government, 97; resignation of, 101; refuses the Privy Seal, 112; desires to retire, 124; dinner to, at Edinburgh, 135; events subsequent to retirement of, 145; intrigue, 145; conservative spirit of, 249; audience of the King, 251; dissatisfaction of, 352

Grey, Sir Charles, Governor of Jamaica, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 271

Grote, George, returned for the City of London, iii. 188

Guizot, Monsieur, reported resignation of, ii. 45; eminence of, iii. 379

Gully, Mr. , account of, ii. 335; returned for Pontefract, 336

Gunpowder Plot, papers relating to, i. 161

Haddington, Earl of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, iii. 181

Halford, Sir Henry, report on the cholera, ii. 137

Hampden, Dr. Regius Professor of Divinity at Oxford, iii. 341, 342

Hanbury's Brewery, dinner at, ii. 148

Happiness, reflections on, iii. 293

Hardinge, Right Hon. Sir Henry, on the prospects of the Tory Government, iii. 167; on the King and Lord Melbourne, 168

Harrowby, Earl of, Lord President, i. 95; speech on Reform, ii. 206; interview with Lord Grey, 224; circular to the Peers, 242, 248; interview with Lord Grey, 259; discussions on letter of, 262; letter shown to Lord Grey, 264; the 'Times' on the letter of, 264, 265; patriotic conduct of, 275; declines to vote on Schedule A, 281; character of, iii. 52; subscription to election expenses, 182

Harrowby, Countess of, iii. 52

Hartwell, visit to, ii. 345

Harvey, Whittle, committee, iii. 112; speech of, at Southwark, 188

Harwich election, 1835, iii. 186

Health, formation of a board of, ii. 154

Henry II. , King, and Thomas à Becket, iii. 130

Henry VIII. , King, coffin of, found at Windsor, ii. 168

Herbert, Sydney, Secretary to the Board of Control, iii. 194

Herculaneum, i. 349

'Hernani, ' ii. 154

Herries, Right Hon. John Charles, scene at Council, i. 108; discussions on appointment of, 110; ill-will of, towards his colleagues, 121; Master of the Mint, 124

Hertford, Marchioness of, funeral of, iii. 79

Hess, Captain, ii. 319, 320

Heurteloup, Baron, before the Judicial Committee, iii. 332

Heythrop, riot at, ii. 77

Hill, Mr. , Irish members' squabble, iii. 55

Hobhouse, Right Hon. Sir John Cam, speech on the Reform Bill, ii. 123; Secretary of War, 243; resigns Irish Secretaryship and seat for Westminster, ii. 368; on the state of affairs, iii. 195; Board of Control, in Lord Melbourne's second Administration, 256

Holland, the King of, invades Belgium, ii. 175; state of, 200; conduct of the King of, 314; the King refuses to give up Antwerp, 321, 329; obstinacy of the King, 324; bankrupt condition of, iii. 32

Holland, Lord, at Panshanger, ii. 47; Duchy of Lancaster, iii. 113; anecdotes related by, 131; on Reform, 135; on Mr. Canning, 135; anecdotes, 335; on Mr. Fox, 335; contempt for the Tory party, 336

Holland, Lady, fancies of, ii. 331; and Spencer Perceval, iii. 331

Holland House, dinner at, ii. 245; conversation at, 316; Allen and Macaulay, 317; sketch of, 331; conversation at, iii. 127, 129; literary criticisms, 130; Lord Melbourne's conversation, 131; dinner at, 132; news of the fall of Lord Melbourne's Administration, 147; party spirit at, 192

Holmes boroughs, ii. 140

Hook, Theodore, improvisation of, iii. 119, 197; singing of, 197

Home, Sir William, Attorney-General, ii. 333; and Lord Brougham, iii. 67

Hortense, Queen, at Frascati, i. 305

Horton, Wilmot, lectures at the Mechanics' Institute, ii. 97

Howe, Earl, dismissal of, ii. 203; Queen's Chamberlain, 319; and Queen Adelaide, 331; correspondence about the Chamberlainship, 339

Howick, Viscount, Under-secretary, ii. 78; in office, iii. 254; civility of the King to, 255; Secretary of War, 256; acrimony of, 312; interview with Spencer Perceval, 330; on the position of parties, 360

Hudson, Sir James, page of honour, ii. 339

Hume, John Deacon, Assistant-Secretary to the Board of Trade, i. 223; ii. 49

Hume, Joseph, extreme Radical views of, ii. 361; speech on the Orangemen, iii. 344; deputation to Lord Melbourne, 357

'Hunchback, The, ' ii. 285

Hunt, Henry, speech of, ii. 112; speech of, against the Reform Bill, 134

Huskisson, Right Hon. William, President of the Board of Trade, i. 95; dispute in the Cabinet, 120; joins the new Government, 122; Colonial Secretary, 124; resignation of, 131; Lord Melbourne's opinion of, ii. 46; death of, 47; character of, 49; funeral of, 51

Incendiarism in the country, ii. 84

Ireland, trials in, i. 239; dissatisfaction in, ii. 76; unpopularity of Government changes in, 89; state of, 112, 114; education in, 267, 271; tithes, 309; Church difficulties in, 323

Irish Church, abuses in, iii. 9; the Irish Church Bill dangerous to the Government, 86; differences in the Cabinet, 89; difficulties of the Irish Church question, 240, 253; opinions of Lord Melbourne on the, 269. For debates on the Irish Church Bill, _see_ Lords, House of, and Commons, House of

Irish Tithe Bill, thrown out, iii. 117; divisions on the, 246; conduct of the Government, 298; difficulties of, 353, 354; abandonment of the Appropriation Clause, 355

Irving, Edward, service in chapel, iii. 40; the unknown tongues, 41; sermon of, 41; interview with Lord Melbourne, 129

Irving, Washington, i. 249

Istria, Duchesse d', beauty of, iii. 381

Jacquemont's Letters, iii. 115

Jamaica, insurrection in, ii. 262; Mr. Greville, Secretary of the Island of, 349; petition to the King, 352; affairs of, 352; anecdote of a slave, 359; opinion of Sir Willoughby Cotton, 380; office of Secretary to the Island of, threatened, iii. 266, 268, 275; secured, 279

Jebb, Judge, charge of, at O'Connell's trial, ii. 109

Jeffrey, Lord, and Professor Leslie, iii. 44

Jersey, Countess of, character of, i. 12; party at the house of, ii. 64; quarrel with Lord Durham, 119; correspondence with Lord Brougham, 126

Jockey Club, dinner given by the King to the, 1828, i. 154; in 1829, 211

'John Bull, ' the, newspaper, ii. 97

Johnson, Dr. , anecdotes of, ii. 316

Johnstone, Right Hon. Sir Alexander, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 27, 30; at the Judicial Committee, 125

Jones Loyd, Mr. , iii. 188

Jones, 'Radical, ' interview with Lord Wharncliffe, ii. 200

Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, Bill for the establishment of the, iii. 21; meeting to make regulations for the, 35; first sitting of the, 38; working of the, 205

Kelly, Mrs. , adventures of her daughter, i. 379, 383; case before the Privy Council, iii. 259, 261, 266, 267; judgment, 274

Kemble, Charles, and his family, iii. 260

Kemble, Miss Fanny, i. 240, ii. 129; tragedy by, 270; in the 'Hunchback, ' 285

Kempt, Right Hon. Sir James, Master-General of the Ordnance, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 84

Kent, H. R. H. The Duchess of, disputes in the Royal Family, ii. 190; and the Duke of Wellington, 190; the Regency Bill, 191; salutes to, iii. 3; at Burghley, 315; quarrels with the King, 366; scene at Windsor, 367; answer to the address of the City of London, 399; squabble with the King, 400

Kenyon, Lord, speech at Apsley House, ii. 198

Kinnaird, Lord, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150

Klopstock, Friedrich Gottlieb, anecdote of, iii. 130

Knatchbull, Right Hon. Sir Edward, joins the Peel Government, iii. 176, 177; attack on, 226

Knighton, Sir William, i. 72; influence with the King, 99, 144; behaviour of, during the King's illness, ii. 174

Lafayette, Marquis de, resignation of, ii. 99

La Ferronays, M. De, French Ambassador at Rome, i. 307; on the accession of the Emperor Nicholas, 373; on French politics, 368; civility of, 380, 381; on French affairs, 393, 395

La Granja, revolution of, iii. 364, 365

'Lalla Rookh, ' at Bridgewater House, iii. 353

Lamb, Sir Frederick, ii. 94; reported letter to the King of France from the Duke of Wellington, 94

Lambeth Palace, restoration of, ii. 34

Lancashire election, 1835, iii. 198

Langdale, Lord, reply to Lord Brougham, iii. 81; declines the Solicitor-Generalship, 141; peerage, 328; Master of the Rolls, 328

Lansdowne, Marquis of, Secretary of State for the Home Department, i. 95; Lord President, ii. 66; dinner to name the sheriffs, 109; on the Reform Bill, 131; and Lord Brougham, 347; Lord President in both of the Administrations of Lord Melbourne, iii. 113, 256

La Roncière, case of, iii. 202

Laval, M. De, at Apsley House, ii. 15

Law, History of English, iii. 114

Lawrence, Sir Thomas, early genius of, i. 256; death of, 263; character of, 264; funeral of, 268; engagement of, to the Misses Siddons, iii. 50

Leach, Right Hon. Sir John, disappointed of the Woolsack, ii. 68; in the case of Drax _v. _ Grosvenor, 378

Leigh, Colonel George, ii. 189

Leinster, Duke of, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155

Leitrim, Earl of, created a Baron of the United Kingdom, ii. 150

Le Marchant, Denis, at Stoke, iii. 21

Lemon, Robert, F. S. A. , Deputy Keeper of the State Papers, iii. 44

Lennard, John Barrett, Chief Clerk of the Privy Council Office, ii. 370

Leopold, King, i. 22; desires to ascend the throne of Greece, 265; anxiety to ascend the throne of Belgium, ii. 153; accepts the throne of Belgium, 158; starts for Belgium, 167; proposes to the Princess Louise of France, 168; in Belgium, 177; want of confidence in, 177; cold reception of, at Windsor, iii. 370

Leuchtenberg, Duke of, at Havre, iii. 33; marriage of, 33; letter to Lord Palmerston, 34; arrival of, 195

Leveson, Lord Francis, _see_ Ellesmere, Earl of

Levee, iii. 213

Lewis, Matthew Gregory, ('Monk' Lewis), journals and voyages to the West Indies, ii. 382; anecdote of, iii. 2; agreement with Mr. Murray for the Journal, 8

Lichfield, Earl of, at Runton, iii. 51

Lichfield Cathedral, iii. 327

Lieven, Prince, recalled, iii. 87

Lieven, Princess, character of, i. 15; attacks Lord Grey, ii. 261; on the Belgian question, 266; conversation with, 322; renews her friendship with the Duke of Wellington, 325; grievances of, 351; interference of, 358; diplomatic difficulties, 357; reception of, at St. Petersburg, iii. 23; position, of, in Paris, 379

Littleton, Right Hon. Edward, i. 11; proposed by Lord Althorp as Speaker, ii. 333; Secretary for Ireland, 372; and O'Connell, iii. 99; instrumental in breaking up the Government, 102; political career of, 103; letter to Lord Wellesley, 103, 110; in communication with O'Connell, 103, 110; Irish Secretary, 113

Liverpool, Earl of, and the King, i. 25; paralytic seizure, 90; transactions before the close of Administration of, ii. 173

Liverpool, opening of the railroad, ii. 43, 47; bribery at election, 79

Lobau, Marshal, Commandant-Général, ii. 99

Lodge, the Royal, entertainments at, i. 99

London, speech of Bishop of, iii. 391; University Charter, iii. 80, 81, 237; meeting of Committee of Council on, 260, 262

Londonderry, Marquis of, death of, i. 51; character of, 52; funeral of, 54

Londonderry, Marquis of, motion on Belgium, ii. 180; attacks Lord Plunket, 266; debate on appointment of, to St. Petersburg, iii. 225; opinion of the Duke of Wellington, 227; speech of, 228; resignation of, 229

Long, St. John, trial of, ii. 85

Lords, House of, debate of Royal Dukes, i. 177; debate on Catholic Relief Bill, 199; division on Catholic Relief Bill, 199; debate on affairs in Portugal, 277; debate on the Methuen Treaty, ii. 118; speech of Lord Brougham, 118; violent scene in the, 136; debate on Lord Londonderry's motion, 180; prospects of the Reform Bill, 193; First Reform Bill thrown out, 202; attack on the Bishops, 205; new Peers, 230; measures for carrying the second reading of the Second Reform Bill, 235, 237; division on the Belgian question, 240; Reform Bill, 271; Irish education, 271; debates on second reading of the Reform Bill, 272, 286; list of proposed new Peers, 283; Reform Bill carried, 287; in Committee on the Reform Bill, 291; debate on conduct of the Tory party, 303; Russo-Dutch Loan, 315; Government beaten on Portuguese question, 376; powerlessness of, 377; Local Courts Bill, 382, 384; debate on Local Courts Bill, iii. 7; Government defeated, 7; Irish Church Bill, 8; Bill for the observance of the Sabbath, 83; debate on the Irish Church Bill, 94; Poor Law Bill, 114; debate on Irish Tithe Bill, 117; conduct of the House, 239; debate on Corporation Bill, 286, 290; position of the House, 288, 291; Irish Tithe Bill thrown up, 295; conflict with the House of Commons, 295; state of the House, 307; debate on Corporation Bill, 308, 351; hostility to the House of Commons, 359; conduct of the House, 360, 361

Louis XVIII. , King, memoirs of, ii. 305; favourites of, 305; at Hartwell, 345

Louis Philippe, King, accession of, ii. 26; conduct of, 27; tranquillises Paris, 99; speech of, 169; averse to French attack on Antwerp, 334; behaviour of, to the Queen of Portugal, iii. 33; power of, in the Chamber, 142; courage of, 286; conduct towards Spain, 321, 360, 364; at the Tuileries, 382; dislike to the Duke de Broglie, 386

Louise, H. R. H. Princess, daughter of King Louis Philippe, ii. 168

Louis, Baron, reported resignation of, ii. 45

Luckner, General, ii. 219

Lushington, Dr. , speech of, in the appeal of Swift _v. _ Kelly, ii. 383

Lushington, Sir Henry, and 'Monk' Lewis, iii. 2

Luttrell, Henry, character of, i. 10; 'Advice to Julia, ' 33

Lyndhurst, Lord, Lord High Chancellor, i. 95, 124; quarrel with the Duke of Cumberland, 223; dissatisfaction at Lord Brougham's being raised to the Woolsack, ii. 68; reported appointment to be Lord Chief Baron, 89; opinion of the Government, 93; Lord Chief Baron, 106; political position of, 107; anecdote of a trial, 107; retort to the Duke of Richmond, 139; on the Government, 143; on Sir Robert Peel, 144; on Lord Brougham, 144; sent for by the King, 294; efforts to form a Tory Government, 326; judgment in Small _v. _ Attwood, 330; account of the efforts of the Tory party to form a Government, 340; forgets the message of the King to Lord Grey, iii. 49; account of transactions between the King and Lord Melbourne, 150; policy of, 151; on Lord Brougham, 153; Lord High Chancellor, 156; on the Administration of Sir Robert Peel, 189; conduct on the Corporation Bill, 288, 292; on the prospects of the session, 332; on the business of the House of Lords, 333; speech in vindication of conduct, 362; in Paris, 378; insult offered to, in House of Commons, 389; capacity of, 390; violent speech of, 401

Lyndhurst, Lady, insulted by the Duke of Cumberland, i. 222; conversation with, ii. 93

Lynn Regis, election, iii. 170, 171, 175, 181

Lyons, riots at, ii. 219

Macao, verses on, i. 11, 12

Macaulay, Thomas Babington, speeches on the Reform Bill, ii. 123, 199; eloquence of, 204; at Holland House, 245; appearance of, 246; character of, 317; on the Coercion Bill, 363; conversation of, iii. 35; memory of, 337; eloquence of, compared to Lord Brougham, 338; inscription on monument erected in honour of Lord William Bentinck, 339

Macaulay, Zachary, iii. 337

Mackintosh, Right Hon. Sir James, speech of, on the criminal laws, i. 19; conversation of, 241; death of, ii. 307; 'History of England, ' iii. 139; remarks on life of, 293, 314; compared with Burke, 314; life of, 316; abilities of, 316; religious belief of, 324

Maggiore, Lago, i. 414

Maidstone, state of the borough, iii. 184

Maii, Monsignore, i. 367, 375

Malibran, Maria Felicita, in the 'Sonnambula, ' iii. 12

Mallet, conspiracy of, ii. 186

Malt Tax, the, Government defeated on, ii. 368

Manners Sutton, Sir Charles, G. C. B. , proposed as Premier, ii. 326; conduct of, 341; reappointed Speaker, 343; Knight of the Bath, iii. 30; the Speakership, 204, _see_ Canterbury, Lord

Mansfield, Lord, speech against the Government, ii. 136; audience of the King, 138; meeting of Peers, 152

Mansion House, the, dinner at, iii. 178

Marengo, battle-field of, i. 292

Maria, Donna, Queen of Portugal, at a child's ball, i. 209; proposals of marriage for, iii. 33; at Windsor, 33; picture of, 195

Marie Amélie, Queen, iii. 383

Marmont, Marshal, at Lady Glengall's, ii. 34; conversation with, 34; revolution of 1830, 37; at Woolwich, 38; dinner at Lord Dudley's, 38

Matteis, trial of, i. 336, 341

Matuscewitz, Russian Ambassador Extraordinary, i. 159; on affairs in Europe, ii. 176; conduct of, 324; conversation with, iii. 314

Maule, Mr. Justice, at dinner at the Athenaeum. Ii. 101

Meeting of moderate men, origin of the 'Derby Dilly, ' iii. 219

Meiningen, château of, model of the, iii. 122; the Queen revisits the, 125

Melbourne, Viscount, Home Secretary, ii. 66; efficiency of, in office, 90; negotiations with, 104; dissatisfaction of, 245; on the proposed new Peers, 254; on the Reform Bill, 277; on the members of Lord Grey's Administration, 322; sent for by the King, iii. 102; forms an Administration, 108; letter to the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, and Mr. Stanley, 109; Administration of, 113; anecdote of, 126; information of, 130; literary conversation of, 131; on Benthamites, 138; theological reading of, 138; fall of Government of, 143; dismissal of, 144; details of fall of Government, 147; account of dismissal, 150, 168; with the King, 163, 168; with his colleagues, 164, 165, 166; dispute with Lord Duncannon, 166; speeches at Derby, 170; weakness of, 170; second Administration formed, 253; composition of, 256; theological reading of, 324; appointment of Dr. Hampden, 342; action against, brought by the Hon. Mr. Norton, 349; result of the trial, 351; difficulties of the Government, 355

Melville, Viscount, President of the India Board, i. 124

Mendizabal, ability of, iii. 321; dismissal of, 350

Messiah, the oratorio of the, performed in Westminster Abbey, iii. 98

Methuen, Paul, M. P. , on supporting the Government, iii. 65; retort of O'Connell to, 65

Metternich, Princess, anecdote of, iii. 187

Mexico, failure of the Spanish expedition against, i. 249

Meynell, Mr. , retires from the Lord Chamberlain's department, ii. 133

Mezzofanti, i. 403

Middlesex election, 1835, iii. 197

Middleton, party at, i. 12

Miguel, Dom, ii. 312, 315, 321; attacks Oporto, 324; fleet captured by Captain Napier, iii. 9; anecdote of, 26; blunders of, 93

Milan, i. 413

Mill, John Stuart, at breakfast given by Mr. Henry Taylor, ii. 59

Milton, Viscount, at a meeting at Lord Althorp's, ii. 161

Mirabeau, Count de, Talleyrand's account of, ii. 384

Miraflores, Count de, Spanish Ambassador in London, iii. 98; doubtful compliment to Madame de Lieven, 99

Mola di Gaeta, i. 359; Cicero's villa, 368

Molé, M. , Prime Minister of France, iii. 379; abilities of, 380

Montalivet, case of the French refugee, iii. 386

Monti, Vincenzo, anecdote of, ii. 186

Moore, Thomas, i. 239, 245; conversation of, 242; anecdotes, 247; Irish patriotism of, ii. 98; opinions on Reform, 140; copy of 'Lord Edward Fitzgerald, ' 169; satire on Dr. Bowring, 219; compared with Rogers, iii. 324; quarrel with O'Connell, 346

'Morning Herald, ' the, moderate Tory organ, ii. 269

Mornington, Countess of, death of, ii. 194

Morpeth, Viscount, Irish Secretary, iii. 256; speech on Irish Tithe Bill, 256

Mosley, Sir Oswald, meeting of moderate men, iii. 220

Mulgrave, Earl of, in Jamaica, ii. 352; refuses the office of Postmaster-General, iii. 90; Lord Privy Seal, 113; capability of, 255

Municipal Corporation Bill, iii. 263, 284, 290; policy of Tory Peers on the, 283; prospects of the, 295; effects of the, 309, 313; the Bill carried, 310

Munster, Earl of, employed by the King, ii. 10; raised to the Peerage, 143; Lieutenant of the Tower, 168; sworn in a Privy Councillor, 352

Murat, Achille, ii. 115

Murray, Dr. , Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin, i. 146

Murray, Sir George, Secretary of State for the Colonial Department, ii. 11

Murray, Lady Augusta, marriage of, ii. 194

Musard's ball, iii. 384

Namik Pacha, Turkish Ambassador, ii. 339

Napier, Sir William, on the state of the country, ii. 108; 'History of the Peninsular War, ' iii. 271

Napier, Captain Charles, captures Dom Miguel's fleet, iii. 9; cause of capture of a French squadron, 11; anecdote of, 34

Naples, i. 333; sight-seeing at, 334; Court of Justice, 334; manuscripts, 334; ceremony of taking the veil, 338; sights of, 345, 356; miracle of the blood of San Gennaro, 353, 355, 364; excursions to Astroni, 356; lines on leaving, 361

Navarino, battle of, i. 114, 163

Nemours, H. R. H. Duc de, accompanies King Louis Philippe, ii. 99; nomination to the throne of Belgium declined, 111; in the House of Commons, iii. 306; at Doncaster, 315

Newmarket, political negotiations at, ii. 290

Nicholas, Emperor, accession of, i. 373; reception of strangers, iii. 24; on the change of Government in England, 211; speech at Warsaw, 319; dislike to King Louis Philippe, 387; qualities of, 371

'Norma, ' the opera of, iii. 2

North, Lord, Letters of George III. To, iii. 129; anecdote of, 132

Northamptonshire election, iii. 326

Northumberland, Duke of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, i. 157

Northumberland, Duchess of, resigns her office of governess to the Princess Victoria, iii. 400

Norton, Hon. Mr. , action brought against Lord Melbourne, iii. 349; result of the trial, 351

Oaks, The, ii. 374; party at, 374

Oatlands, the residence of the Duke of York, i. 4; weekly parties at, 5, 7

O'Connell, Daniel, character of, i. 145; at dinner, 203; attempts to take his seat, 207; elected for Clare, 1829, 223; insult to, ii. 76; in Ireland, 96; opposition to Lord Anglesey, 98; abilities of, 100; violence of, 106; arrest of, 107; trial of, 109; position of, 111; pleads guilty, 114; opposition to Lord Duncannon in Kilkenny, 115; explanation of, 123; dread of cholera, 309; member for Ireland, 351; violent speech at the Trades' Union, 362, 363; attack on Baron Smith, iii. 59; retort to Mr. Methuen, 65; and the Coercion Bill, 103, 110; in correspondence with Mr. Littleton, 110; union with the Whig party, 219; power of, 255; affair with Lord Alvanley, 256; in Scotland, 316; proposed expulsion from Brooks's club, 320; quarrel with Moore, 346; Carlow election, 348

O'Connell, Morgan, duel with Lord Alvanley, iii. 256

Old Bailey, trials at, i. 204; ii. 85

Opera House, the English, burnt, i. 277

Orange, Prince of, dinner to the, ii. 57; returns to Holland, 133

Orange, Princess of, robbery of jewels of, i. 267

Orange Lodge, association of, iii. 343

Orangemen, meeting of, iii. 123

Orleans, H. R. H. Duke of, arrival of, i. 208; sent to Lyons, ii. 219; in England, 373; project of marriage at Vienna, iii. 372; question of marriage of, 387

Orloff, Count, arrival of, ii. 278; delay in ratification of the Belgian Treaty, 285

Osterley, party at, ii. 187

Padua, i. 411

Paestum, i. 344

Palmella, Duke of, arrival of in London, ii. 315

Palmerston, Viscount, speech on the Portuguese question, i. 211; Foreign Secretary, ii. 66; suggests a compromise on the Reform Bill, 211; on proposed new Peers, 254; on prospects of the Reform Bill, 256; business habits of, iii. 20, 21; unpopularity of, 56; speech on the Turkish question, 71; Foreign Secretary in Lord Melbourne's Administration, 113; unpopularity with the _corps diplomatique_, 136; loses his election in Hampshire, 197; as a man of business, 210; Foreign Secretary, 256; abilities of, 360

Panic, the, 1825, i. 77; on the Stock Exchange, 1830, ii. 43

Panshanger, parties at, ii. 46, 47, 229

Paris, society at, in 1830, i. 283; in July, 416, 417; Marshal Marmont's account of events at, in 1830, ii. 36; alarm felt in, 99; change of Ministry, 133; in 1837, iii. 377; society at, 378, 385; sight-seeing, 381, 383

Park, Judge, anecdotes of, ii. 92; iii. 372

Parke, Right Hon. Sir James, sworn in a Privy Councillor, iii. 21; Baron of the Exchequer, 71; in the appeal of Swift _v. _ Kelly, 268

Parliament, meeting of, 1830, ii. 53; meeting of, 1831, ii. 110; dissolution of 1831, 137; opening of, 153; in 1831, 223; dissolution of, 1832, 334; opening of, 1833, 351; prorogation of, 1833, iii. 27; opening of, 1834, 55; dissolution of, 183; temporary buildings for Houses of, 205; opening of, 219; in 1836, 334; prorogation of, 1836, 361

Parnell, Sir Henry, turned out of office, ii. 243

Parsons, anecdotes of, ii. 108

Paskiewitch, Marshal, in quarantine, ii. 162

Pattison, James, returned to Parliament for the City of London, iii. 188

Pavilion, The, dinner at, i. 49; completion of, 54

Pease, Mr. , and O'Dwyer, iii. 59

Pedro, Dom, expedition of, ii. 312, 315; proposal to combine with Spain, iii. 72; in possession of Portugal, 93

Peel, Right Hon. Sir Robert, Home Secretary, i. 124; speeches on Catholic Relief Bill, 167, 183; Oxford University election, 1829, 177; defeated, 178; political prospects of, ii. 95, 96; power in the House of Commons, 116; speech on the Reform Bill, 123; inactivity of, on the Reform Bill, 130, 134; complaints of policy of, 141; conduct of, 160; reserve of, 161, 174; excellence in debate, 200; answer to Lord Harrowby, 248, 249; policy of, 264; speech on Irish Tithes, 269; invited to form a Government, 294; refuses to take office, 296; defence of conduct, 304; conduct during the Tory efforts to form a Government, 327, 328; conduct compared with that of the Duke of Wellington, 328; character of, 354; on political unions, iii. 12; in society, 35; position of, in the House of Commons, 64; collection of pictures, 70; great dinner given by, 72; speech on admission of Dissenters to the University, 75; policy of the Administration of, 161; friendship with the Duke of Wellington renewed, 167; arrival of, from the Continent, 174; formation of Administration, 177; manifesto to the country, 178; prospects of the Ministry, 179; qualities of, 189; Toryism of Administration of, 194; false position of, 208; prospects of Government, 214, 235, 236; talents of, 224; conduct to his adherents, 230, 244; courage of, 283; impending resignation of, 242; Government defeated, 246; resignation of Administration of, 1835, 246, 248; speech on Corporation Reform, 263; on Irish Church Bill, 281; relations with Lord John Russell, 282; seclusion of, 297; speech on Corporation Reform, 304; consideration for Lord Stanley, 335; conduct with regard to the Corporation Bill, 340; position of, 358; on the beginning of the new reign, 402

Peel, Sir Robert, sen. , account of, ii. 125

Peel, Right Hon. Jonathan, iii. 243

Pemberton, Thomas, ii. 314; in the appeal of Swift _v. _ Kelly, iii. 267, 271

Pembroke, Earl of, i. 250

Pension List, _see_ Commons, House of

Pepys, Right Hon. Sir Christopher, Master of the Rolls, iii. 328. _See_ Cottenham, Lord

Perceval, Spencer, discourse of, iii, 41; the Unknown Tongue, 41; on the condition of the Church, 123; apostolic mission to the members of the Government, 331; at Holland House, 331; apostolic mission of, 333

Périer, Casimir, momentary resignation of, ii. 175; attacked by cholera, 288; death of, 307

Persian Ambassador, the, quarrel of, with the Regent, i. 21

Perth election, 1835, iii. 197

Petworth House and pictures, ii. 336; fête at, iii. 84

Peyronnet, Comte de, i. 393

Phillpotts, _see_ Exeter, Bishop of

Pisa, i. 297

Pitt, Right Hon. William, described by Talleyrand, ii. 345; anecdotes of, iii. 131

Plunket, Lord, Lord Chancellor in Ireland, ii. 90; anecdote of, 107; at Stoke, iii. 21; Deanery of Down, 70

Poland, contest in, ii. 157

Polignac, Prince Jules de, head of the Administration in France; i. 160, 229, 283; Administration of, 394; behaviour of, ii. 29; letter to M. De Molé, 33; exasperation against, 38, 39

Pompeii, i. 338; excavations at, 343

Ponsonby, Viscount, Minister at Naples, ii. 155; letters of, 172; conduct of, as Ambassador at Constantinople, iii. 405

Pope, the, audience of Pius VIII. , i. 382; Irish appointments of the, iii. 269. _See_ Rome

Portfolio, the, iii. 327

Portland, Duke of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 95

Portugal, ships seized by the French, ii. 182, 184; affairs in, iii. 25, 79; bankrupt state of, 93

Powell, Mr. , ii. 52

Pozzo di Borgo, Count, ii. 347; views of, on the state of Europe, iii. 182; Russian Ambassador in London, 201, 203

Praed, Winthrop Mackworth, first speech of, ii. 115; First Secretary to the Board of Control, iii. 194

Pratolino, i. 402

Prayer, form of, on account of the disturbed state of the kingdom, ii. 99

Proclamation against rioters, ii. 73

Quakers, the, address to King William IV, ii. 17

'Quarterly Review, The, ' attacks Lord Harrowby, ii. 269, 270; pamphlet in answer to article, 270

Quintus Curtius, iii. 130

Racing, remarks on, ii. 373; anecdote, 374

Redesdale, Lord, letter of, ii. 269

Reform, plan of, ii. 105; remarks on, 207; negotiations concerning, 215, 217, 218

Reform Bill, the, laid before the King, ii. 109; excitement concerning, 124; carried by one vote, 132; alterations in, 134; Government defeated, 135; remarks on, 180; attitude of the press, 193; prospects of, 199; negotiations for a compromise, 211; altered tone of the press, 225; meeting of Peers in Downing Street, 225; measures for carrying the second reading in the House of Lords, 235, 237, 239, 241; continued efforts to compromise, 268; finally passed in the House of Commons, 270; continued discussions on, 274; difficulty with Schedule A, 280; carried in the House of Lords, 287; in committee, 292; passes through committee, 304; results of, iii. 27, 191. For debates on, _see_ Lords, House of, and Commons, House of

Reichstadt, Duke of, and Marshal Marmont, iii. 374

Reis-Effendi, the, i. 159

Renfrewshire election, iii. 388

Rice, Right Hon. Thomas Spring, Colonial Secretary, iii. 88, 113; difficulties with, 253; Chancellor of the Exchequer, 256; incapacity of, as Chancellor of the Exchequer, 376

Richmond, Duke of, and King George III. At a naval review, iii. 129

Richmond, Duke of, summary of character of, i. 199; Postmaster-General, ii. 66; refuses the appointment of Master of the Horse, 67; difficulties with his labourers, 68; at Goodwood, 182; on Reform, 211; character of, iii. 15; resignation of, 88

Riots, in London, 1830, ii. 55; among the farm labourers, 68; proclamation against, 73; in the country, 77

Ripon, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, ii. 66; resignation of, iii. 88. _See_ Goderich, Viscount

Robarts, Mr. , dinner given by, iii. 184

Robinson, Right Hon. Frederick John, Chancellor of the Exchequer, i. 79; _See_ Goderich, Viscount

Rochester election, 1835, iii. 193

Roden, Earl of, declines the office of Lord Steward, iii. 179, 181

Rogers, Samuel, breakfast given by, ii. 150; compared with Moore, iii. 324

Rolle, Lord, remark to Lord Brougham, iii. 107

Rome, i. 303, 304; St. Peter's, 303, 321; sight-seeing, 306, 311, 322; the Sistine Chapel, 309; the cardinals, 309; a cardinal lying in state, 312; Pompey's statue, 313; Temple of Bacchus, 313; the Catacombs, 314; the Pope's blessing, 316, 324; Holy Week observances, 317; the Grand Penitentiary, 317, 319; washing of pilgrims' feet, 320; supper to pilgrims, 321; Protestant burial-ground, 322; St. Peter's illuminated, 325; excavations, 327; sight-seeing, 328, 329, 362; aqueducts, 363; the Scala Santa, 364; St. Peter's, 366; Library of the Vatican, 367; votive offering of a horse-shoe, 367, 372; Columbaria, 374; saints, 385; the Flagellants, 387; relations with Protestant countries, 391; the Coliseum, 395; story of a thief, 396; convent of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, 397; sight-seeing, 398

Rosslyn, Earl of, Lord Privy Seal, i. 210; Lord President of the Council, iii. 177; dinner for selecting the Sheriffs, 201

Roussin, Admiral, at Constantinople ii. 367

Rovigo, the Duke de, at Rome, i. 325

Rundell, Mr. , fortune of, will of, i. 90

Runton Abbey, shooting at, iii. 51; murder in the neighbourhood, 51

Russell, Right Hon. Lord John, introduces the Reform Bill, ii. 121; seat in the Cabinet, 150; brings in his Bill, 155; letter to Attwood, 205, 206; willing to compromise, 223; brings on the second Reform Bill, 227; Paymaster, of the Forces, iii. 113; objected to by the King as leader of the House of Commons, 160; speech at Totness, 171; on the Speakership, 205; on Church Reform, 206; first speech as leader of the House of Commons, 214; letter of, on the Speakership, 218; as leader of the House of Commons, 221; marriage of, 252; Home Secretary in Lord Melbourne's second Administration, 256; introduction of Corporation Reform, 263; relations with Sir Robert Peel, 282; course to be pursued on the Corporation Bill, 303, 310; speech on the Orangemen, 344; moderation of, 352; meeting at the Foreign Office, 357, 358; intention of the Government to proceed with their Bills, 397; speech in answer to Roebuck, 401

Russia, state of, 1829, i. 158; intrigues of, ii. 351; diplomatic relations with, 352; combines with Turkey against Egypt, 366; fleet sent to Constantinople, 366; establishes her power in the East, 371; quarrel with, iii. 44; policy towards Turkey, 48; treaty with Turkey, 69; relations with Turkey, 183

Russo-Dutch Loan, question of the, ii. 240, 241; origin of the, 244; debate on the, in the House of Lords, 315

Rutland, Duke of, anti-Reform petition, ii. 263; birthday party, iii. 46

Sadler, Mr. , maiden speech of, in opposition to the Catholic Relief Bill, i. 191

Saint-Aulaire, M. De, French Ambassador at Vienna, iii. 187; anecdote of, 187

Saint-Aulaire, Madame de, iii. 187

Saint-Germain, Count de, account of, ii. 186; the 'Wandering Jew, ' 186

Salerno, i. 344

Salisbury, Marquis of, petition to the King, ii. 231

Saltash, borough of, division on, ii. 170

San Carlos, Duke and Duchess of, i. 8

Sandon, Viscount, moves the Address in the House of Commons, iii. 202; on Sir Robert Peel, 340

Sandys, Lord, iii. 359

Sartorius, Admiral, petition, iii. 366

Scarlett, Sir James, Attorney-General, i. 210

Scott, Sir Walter, death of, ii. 307

Seaford, Lord, i. 83

Sebastiani, Count, French Ambassador to the Court of St. James's, iii. 180

Sefton, Earl of, dinner to Lord Grey and Lord Brougham, ii. 69; on Lord Brougham, 148; created a Peer of the United Kingdom, 150; qualities of, 183

Segrave, Lord, Lord-Lieutenant of Gloucestershire, iii. 322

Senior, Nassau, at Holland House, iii. 138

Session of 1833, review of the, iii. 28

Sestri, i. 297

Seton, Sir Henry, arrival of, from Belgium, ii. 178

Seymour, Lord, withdraws his support from the Government, ii. 124

Seymour, George, Master of the Robes, ii. 50

Seymour, Horace, retires from the Lord Chamberlain's Department, ii. 133

Seymour, Jane, coffin of, found at Windsor, ii. 168

Shadwell, Right Hon. Sir Lancelot, on legal business, iii. 76

Shee, Sir Martin, elected President of the Royal Academy, i. 269

Sheil, Right Hon. Richard, dispute with Lord Althorp, iii. 55; arrest of, by the Serjeant-at-Arms, 56; committee, 57, 58; insult to Lord Lyndhurst, 389

Sheridan, Richard Brinsley, iii. 336

Siege of Saragossa, the, iii. 40

Siena, i. 303

Simplon, the, i. 415

Slavery, abolition of, ii. 347; for debates on, _see_ Commons, House of

Smith, Baron, ii. 105; O'Connell's attack upon, iii. 59, 61, 63

Smith, Sydney, and the siege of Saragossa, iii. 39; and Professor Leslie, 44; sermon of, in St. Paul's Cathedral, 166; on Sir James Mackintosh, 317; dispute of, with the Bishop of London, 395; letter to Archdeacon Singleton, 395

Smithson, Sir Hugh, ii. 337, 338

Somaglia, Cardinal, i. 312

Somerville, Mrs. , iii. 58

Sorrento, i. 352; Benediction of the Flowers, 352

Soult, Marshal, sent to Lyons, ii. 219; Prime Minister of France, 324

Southey, Robert, at breakfast given by Mr. Henry Taylor, ii. 59; letter to Lord Brougham on rewards to literary men, 111

Spain, the Duke of Wellington on affairs in, iii. 47; state of, 55; affairs in, 66, 72; proposal to combine with Dom Pedro, 72; affairs in, 183; deplorable state of, 359

Spanish Legion, formation of the, iii. 265

Speaker, the, indecision of, ii. 299; disputes on the Speakership, 333; iii. 204

Spencer, Earl, death of, iii. 140

Spencer, Earl, _see_ Althorp, Viscount

Sprotborough, party at, for the races, ii. 50

Staël, Madame de, 'Considérations sur la Révolution française, ' i. 16; anecdote of, ii. 186

Stafford House, concert at, iii. 278

Stanley, Right Hon. Edward, Irish Secretary, ii. 66; speech on the Reform Bill, 123; seat in the Cabinet, 150; speech in answer to Croker, 228; Secretary for the Colonial Department, 365; at The Oaks, 374; indecision of, iii. 17; racing interests of, 35; resignation of, 88; in opposition, 93; 'Thimblerig' speech, 100; conciliatory letter to Lord Grey, 107; disposition of, 165, 167; declines to join Sir R. Peel, 175, 176; speech at Glasgow, 180; formation of the Stanley party, 220; position of Mr. Stanley, 222; policy of, 228; meeting of party at the 'King's Head, ' 237; speech on Irish Church question, 240; character of, 250; letter to Sir Thomas Hesketh, 265; joins the Opposition, 272; conduct of, 336

Stanley, Right Hon. Edward John, Under-Secretary of State, iii. 112

State Paper Office, i. 160; iii. 44

Stephen, James, opinions on emancipation, ii. 359

Stephenson, George, on steam-engines, iii. 54

Stewart, Lady Dudley, party given by, ii. 115; accompanies the Prince of Orange to Gravesend, 133

Stoke, party at, i. 142; ii. 185

Strangford, Viscount, sent to the Brazils, i. 140

Strasburg prisoners, acquittal of, iii. 381

Strawberry Hill, party at, i. 247

Strutt, Edward, ii. 59

Stuart de Rothesay, Lord, Ambassador in France, i. 141

Sugden, Right Hon. Sir Edward, quarrel of, with Lord Brougham, ii. 312; origin of animosity towards Lord Brougham, iii. 22; Irish Chancellor, 178; resignation of, 231; retains his appointment, 234

Sugden, Lady, not received at Court, iii. 231

Sunderland, state of, ii. 216

Sussex, H. R. H. The Duke of, marriage of, ii. 194

Sutherland, Duke of, death of the, iii. 19; wealth, of the, 19

Suttee case, before the Privy Council, ii. 307

Swift _v. _ Kelly, before the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, iii. 259, 266, 267, 271; judgment, 274

Talleyrand, Charles Maurice de, letter to the Emperor of Russia, i. 23; Ambassador to the Court of St. James, ii. 44; conversation of, 185; anecdotes, 185; _mot_ of, 195; dinner with, 222; on Fox and Pitt, 344; detained in the Thames, 346; on Portuguese affairs, iii. 25; on relations between France and England, 314; opinion of, of Lord Palmerston, 360; dissatisfaction at his position in London, 386

Tasso, i. 328; bust of, 328

Tavistock, Marquis of, on the prospects of the Liberal party, iii. 43

Taylor, Sir Herbert, conversation with Lord Wharncliffe, ii. 251; correspondence with, about the Chancellorship, 339

Taylor, Henry, breakfast at the house of, ii. 58; breakfast to Wordsworth, Mill, Elliot, Charles Villiers, 120; on the abolition of slavery in the West Indies, 348; 'Philip van Artevelde, ' iii. 114

Taylor, Brook, mission to Rome, ii. 153

Teddesley, party at, i. 11

Tenterden, Lord, death of, ii. 329; character of, 331; classical knowledge of, 331

Terceira, Portuguese expedition to, i. 169, 170

Terni, Falls of, i. 401

Thiers, Adolphe, dinner to, iii. 31; account of, 31; at the head of the French Government, 66; on interference in Spain, 66; foreign policy of, 364; social qualities of, 379; quarrel with Lady Granville, 380; courts the favour of Austria, 387

Thompson, Alderman, difficulties with his constituents, ii. 166

Thomson, Right Hon. Charles Poulett, originates a commercial treaty with France, ii. 219; Board of Trade, iii. 113, 256; self-complacency of, 330

Thorwaldsen, Albert, at Florence, i. 299, 300

Tierney, Right Hon. George, i. 14; Master of the Mint, 95; death of, 269

'Times, ' the, on Lord Harrowby's letter, ii. 264, 265; attacks Lord Grey, 267; Lord Chancellor's speech, 313; influence of the, 362; and Lord Brougham, iii. 133; disposition of, to support a Tory Government, 149, 152; terms of support to the Duke of Wellington, 155; power of the, 156, 157; negotiations with Lord Lyndhurst, 171; letter signed 'Onslow, ' 199

Titchfield, Marquis of, death of, i. 75; character of, 75

Tivoli, i. 375

Tixall, party at, i. 10; Macao, 11

Torrington, Viscount, and the King, iii. 285

Tory party, state of the, ii. 162; meeting at Bridgewater House, iii. 237; state of the, 306; indifference of members of the, 389

Treaty of Unkiar Skelessi, iii. 45; between Russia and Turkey, 1834, 69; the Quadruple, for the pacification of the Peninsula, signed 1834, 94

Tree, Ellen, at the City Theatre, ii. 181

Tuileries, the, reception at, iii. 382; ball at, 383; small ball at, 385

Turf, the, reflections on, iii. 139

Turin, i. 291

Turkey, threatened by Russia, i. 228; critical state of, ii. 351; relations with Russia, iii. 183

Tusculum, i. 390

Twiss, Horace, supper party given by, iii. 260

Union, speech of O'Connell on the repeal of the, iii. 80

Unions, proclamation against the, ii. 215; procession of trades, iii. 79

Urquhart, Mr. , Secretary to the Embassy at Constantinople, iii. 405

Van de Weyer, Sylvain, Belgian Minister to the Court of St. James, ii. 180

Vaudreuil, M. De, French _chargé d'affaires_ in London, on French affairs, ii. 24

Vaughan, Right Hon. Sir Charles, special mission to Constantinople, iii. 405

Vaughan, Right Hon. Sir John, sworn in a Privy Councillor, ii. 155

Venice, i. 405; sights of, 406, 408, 410

Vernet, Horace, at Rome, i. 325

Verona, Congress of, i. 65; visit to, 413

Verulam, Earl of, petition to the King, ii. 231

Vesuvius, ascent of, i. 350

Vicenza, i. 412

Victoria, H. R. H. The Princess, at a child's ball, i. 209; first appearance of, at a drawing-room, ii. 119; at Burghley iii. 315; health of, proposed by the King, 364; at Windsor, 367; letter from the King, 400; seclusion of, 403; first Council of, 406; proclaimed QUEEN, 408; impression produced on all, 409

Villiers, Hon. Hyde, appointed to the Board of Control, ii. 145

Villiers, Hon. George, at the Grove, ii. 105; conversation with the Duke of Wellington, 105; mission to Paris for a commercial treaty, 219; Minister at Madrid, iii. 14, 20, 21; on prospects in Spain, 69, 79; letters of, from Madrid, 321, 360, 365

Villiers, Hon. Charles Pelham, ii. 59

Virginia Water, ii. 25; visit to, 30

Walewski, Count Alexander, arrival of, in London, ii. 104

Walpole, Horace, letters to Sir Horace Mann, iii. 2

'Wandering Jew, The, ' ii. 186

Warsaw, affair at, ii. 95; taken by the Russians, 192

Warwickshire Election, iii. 353, 354

Wellesley, Marquis of, Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, iii. 31; correspondence with Mr. Littleton, 103, 110; resigns the White Wand, 258

Wellesley, Long, Esq. , committed for contempt of court, ii. 166

Wellington, Duke of, account of the battle of Waterloo, i. 39; in Paris with Blücher, 41; dispute with the King, 51; on affairs of France and Spain, 67; opinion of Bonaparte, 71; mission to Russia, 78; visit to the Royal Lodge, 102; opinion of Mr. Canning, 107; forms a Government, 1828, 124; resolves to carry the Catholic Relief Bill, 143; correspondence with Dr. Curtis, 148; ascendency of, in the Cabinet, and over the King, 176; hardness of character of, 191; duel with Lord Winchelsea, 192; conversation with, on King George IV. And the Duke of Cumberland, 216, 218; prosecution of the press, 233, 258, 260; business habits of, 262; conversation with on the French Revolution, ii. 21; qualities of, 41; confidence in, 45; declaration against Reform, 53; Administration of, defeated, 61; resignation of, 62; suppresses disturbance in Hampshire, 75; political character of, 81; reported letter of advice to the King of France, 94; correspondence with Mr. Canning, 103; conduct towards the Government, 159; objections to Mr. Canning, 170; dinner at Apsley House, 188; anti-Reform dinner at Apsley House, 197; remarks upon, 204; memorial to the King, 211; correspondence with Lord Wharncliffe, 221; obstinacy of, 234; letter to Lord Wharncliffe, 248; unbecoming letter laid before the King, 252; reply to Lord Wharncliffe, 253; speech on Irish Education, 272; sent for by the King, 294; efforts of, to form an Administration, 299; inability of, to form an Administration, 300; statement of his case, 302; conduct of the Tory party, 302; ill-feeling towards Peel, 325; view of affairs, 1833, 363; government of French provinces, 363; respect evinced towards, 372; defence of policy, 379; Speech on the Coronation Oath, iii. 9, 10; policy on the Irish Church Bill, 10; on Portuguese affairs, 11, 26; and the Bonaparte family, 26; subsequent account of attempt to form a Government, 48; compared with Lord Grey, 73; speech on the admission of Dissenters to the University, 73; presents the Oxford petition, 79; and the Whigs, 82; installed as Chancellor of the University of Oxford, 95; First Lord of the Treasury, and Secretary of State for the Home Office, 149; arrangement for a provisional Government, 149; at the public offices, 1834, 154; account of crisis of 1834, 162; inconsistencies of, 172; on the division on the Speakership, 216; on Lord Londonderry's appointment, 227; anecdote of Lord Brougham, 232; on Spain, 270; on the Walcheren expedition, 271; policy of, on the Corporation Bill, 283; letter to the Duke of Cumberland, 320; speech in answer to Lord Lyndhurst, 362; meeting of Tory Peers, 397; crowned by the Duchess of Cannizzaro, 406; quarrel with the Duke of Clarence, 406

Western, Lord, evidence of, iii. 112

West India Body, consternation of the, ii. 350; deputation of the, 350

West India Bill, prospects of the, iii. 13. For debates on the, _see_ Commons, House of

West Indies, Lord Chandos's motion on the state of the, ii. 116; project of emancipation, 347; alarm in the, 352; difficulties attending emancipation, 360; committee on affairs of the, iii. 266; decision on the office of Secretary of the Island of Jamaica, 279

Westmeath, Marchioness of, pension, i. 157, 160

Westmeath _v. _ Westmeath, appeal before the Judicial Committee, iii. 119, 124; decision in, 140

Westminster election, 1818, contest, i. 3; in 1819, 17, 19; in 1833, ii. 370; in 1837, iii. 398

Wetherell, Sir Charles, account of, i. 194; speech on the Reform Bill, ii. 123; supports Sir E. Sugden's motion, 314

Wharncliffe, Lord, interview with Radical Jones, ii. 200; overtures for a compromise on the Reform Bill, 211; character of, 213; draws up a declaration for signature in the City, 214; disappointment of, 218; final interview of, with Lord Grey, 220; correspondence of, with the Duke of Wellington, 221; interview of, with the King on the proposed new Peers, 231, 233; memorandum laid before the King, 252; as chief of a party, 289; in communication with Lord Lyndhurst and Lord Ellenborough, 290; defends his policy, 292; paper on the Tory party, 343; on the prospects of the country, iii. 54; joins the Peel Government, 175; on the prospects of the session, 341

Whately, Richard, D. D. , Archbishop of Dublin, iii. 280

Whig party, state of the, iii. 159; tactics of the, 216; union with O'Connell, 219; symptoms of disunion in the, 221; meeting at Lichfield House, 224; prospects of the, 235

Wicklow, Earl of, attack on the Government, iii. 110

Wilberforce, William, speech of, i. 16; negotiation with Mr. Canning, ii. 125

William IV. , King, accession of, ii. 1; dislike of, to the Duke of Cumberland, 5; behaviour of, 6, 9; at the House of Lords, 11; personal anecdotes of, 11, 12, 13, 14; dinner at Apsley House, 14; at Windsor, 25; pays the racing debts of the Duke of York, 50; speech on the change of Government, 72; levee, 74; health of, 106, 108; mobbed on returning from the theatre, 117; in mourning for his son-in-law, 133; in the House of Lords, 136; dissolves Parliament, 136; conduct to his Ministers, 138; at Ascot, 147; opens Parliament, 153; at Windsor, 179; and the Bishops, 185; divides the old Great Seal, 188; crowned at Westminster, 190; levee, 192; toasts at dinner at St James's, 193; interview with Lord Wharncliffe on creation of new Peers, 233; health of, 282; reluctance of, to make Peers, 283; adverse sentiments towards the Whigs, 298; dinner to the Jockey Club, 301; levity of, 302; letter to the Peers, 303; character of, 307; struck by a stone, 307; country dance, 341; anecdotes of, 342; state of mind of, 364; letter to the Archbishop of Canterbury, 382, 383; letter-writing, iii. 2; animosity to the French, 33; irritability of, 81; conduct of, 84; personal feelings towards the members of Lord Melbourne's Administration, 137; dismissal of Lord Melbourne, 144; speech to the Tory Lords, 148; provisional appointments, 148; account of difference with Lord Melbourne, 150; resolution of, to support the Tory Government, 161; address to the new Ministers, 175; on the state of Persia, 184; whims of, 203; Island of St. Bartholomew, 203; indignation of, at the affair of Lord Londonderry, 231; distress of, 251; and the Ministers, 245; personal habits of, 264; speech to Sir Charles Grey, 272; audience to Lord Durham, 272; hostility towards Lord Glenelg and the Ministers, 276; conduct to the Speaker, 279; scene with Lord Torrington, 285; speech to the Bishops, 303; speech on the Militia, 311; and the Duchess of Kent, 313; speech at dinner to the Jockey Club, 351; Toryism of, 358; joke, 361; speech to the Bishop of Ely, 363; proposes the health of the Princess Victoria, 364; aversion to his Ministers, 364, 366; speech to Lord Minto, 364, 366; rudeness to the Duchess of Kent, 366; scene at birthday party, 367; reception of King Leopold, 370; speech, 1837, 385; address to Lord Aylmer, 394; illness of, 399, 400; letter to the Princess Victoria, 399; dangerous illness of, 401; prayers offered up for, 403; death of, 406; kindness of heart of, 410

Williams, Sir John, Justice of the Common Pleas, iii. 71

Winchelsea, Earl of, duel of, with the Duke of Wellington, i. 192; incident of the handkerchief, 198

Winchester Cathedral, iii. 283

Windham, Right Hon. William, diary of, i. 231; conversation with Doctor Johnson, 232

Windsor Castle, dinner in St. George's Hall, ii. 34, 42; dinner during the Ascot week, 147

Windsor election, mobs at the, iii. 130

Woburn, party at, i. 23; riot at, ii. 77

Wood, Charles, on the Reform Bill, ii. 280

Wood, Matthew, returned to Parliament for the City of London, iii. 188

Worcester, Marchioness of, death of the, i. 47

Worcester Cathedral, iii. 327; monument of Bishop Hough, 327

Wordsworth, William, characteristics of, ii. 120

Wortley, Right Hon. John, Secretary to the Board of Control, i. 271. _See_ Wharncliffe

Wrottesley, Sir John, motion of, for a call of the House, iii. 8, 13

Wynford, Lord, raised to the Peerage, i. 210; Deputy Speaker of the House of Lords, 210

Wynn, Right Hon. Charles, President of the Board of Control, i. 95; resignation of, ii. 124

York, H. R. H. The Duke of, character of, i. 5; management of racing establishment, 44; dislike to the Duke of Wellington, 48, 62; duel with the Duke of Richmond, 62; anecdotes of King George IV. , 73; illness of, 83, 85; death of, 84; funeral of, 89; letter to Lord Liverpool on the Catholic question, ii. 104

York, H. R. H. The Duchess of, character of, i. 5; portrait of, 8; illness of, 27; death of, 34

Young, Thomas, private secretary to Lord Melbourne, iii. 126

Zea Bermudez, iii. 21; dismissal of, 55

Zumalacarreguy, iii. 270