THEEASIEST WAYINHOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING. 

Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in ClassesBYHELEN CAMPBELL, AUTHOR OF "IN FOREIGN KITCHENS, " "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME, " "PRISONERS OFPOVERTY, ", "SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH, ""WOMEN WAGE-EARNERS, " ETC. , ETC. 

"If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere wellIt were done quickly. "

BOSTON:LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, 1903. 

_Copyright, 1893, _BY ROBERTS BROTHERS. 

University Press:JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U. S. A. 

A Book for Agnes L. V. W. 

AND THE SOUTHERN GIRLS WHO STUDIEDWITH HER. 

PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. 

The little book now revised and sent out with some slight additions, remains substantially the same as when first issued in 1880. In the midstof always increasing cookery-books, it has had a firm constituency offriends, especially in the South, where its necessity was first madeplain. To enlarge it in any marked degree would violate the original plan, for which the critic will please read the pages headed "Introductory, "where he or she will find full explanation of the growth and purpose ofthe book. Whoever desires more receipts and more elaborate forms ofpreparation must look for their sources in the bibliography at the end, since their introduction in these pages would practically nullify thetitle, proved true by years of testing at the hands of inexperiencedhousekeepers, whose warm words have long been very pleasant to the authorof "The Easiest Way. "

NEW YORK, June, 1893. 

CONTENTS. 

PART FIRST. 

PAGE

INTRODUCTORY 5

CHAPTER. 

 I. THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT 11 II. THE HOUSE: ITS VENTILATION 19 III. DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY 27 IV. THE DAY'S WORK 35 V. FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH 45 VI. WASHING-DAY AND CLEANING IN GENERAL 54 VII. THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION 68VIII. FOOD AND ITS LAWS 73 IX. THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH 80 X. THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD 90 XI. THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD 100 XII. CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES 110

PART SECOND. 

STOCK AND SEASONING 119SOUPS 122FISH 131MEATS 144POULTRY 161SAUCES AND SALADS 173EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES 180TEA, COFFEE, &C 193VEGETABLES 197BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES 208CAKE 221PASTRY AND PIES 232PUDDINGS, BOILED AND BAKED 238CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, &C 245CANNING AND PRESERVING 252PICKLES AND CATCHUPS 257CANDIES 259SICK-ROOM COOKERY 261HOUSEHOLD HINTS 270HINTS TO TEACHERS 280LESSONS FOR PRACTICE CLASS 282TWENTY TOPICS FOR CLASS USE 285LIST OF AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO 286EXAMINATION QUESTIONS 287BIBLIOGRAPHY 288INDEX 289

_Introductory. _

That room or toleration for another "cook-book" can exist in the publicmind, will be denied at once, with all the vigor to be expected from apeople overrun with cook-books, and only anxious to relegate the majorityof them to their proper place as trunk-linings and kindling-material. Theminority, admirable in plan and execution, and elaborate enough to serveall republican purposes, are surely sufficient for all the needs that havebeen or may be. With Mrs. Cornelius and Miss Parloa, Marion Harland andMrs. Whitney, and innumerable other trustworthy authorities, for allevery-day purposes, and Mrs. Henderson for such festivity as we may attimes desire to make, another word is not only superfluous but absurd; infact, an outrage on common sense, not for one instant to be justified. 

Such was my own attitude and such my language hardly a year ago; yet thatshort space of time has shown me, that, whether the public admit theclaim, or no, one more cook-book MUST BE. And this is why:--

A year of somewhat exceptional experience--that involved in building upseveral cooking-schools in a new locality, demanding the most thoroughand minute system to assure their success and permanence--showed theinadequacies of any existing hand-books, and the necessities to be met inmaking a new one. Thus the present book has a twofold character, andrepresents, not only the ordinary receipt or cook book, usable in any partof the country and covering all ordinary household needs, but covers thequestions naturally arising in every lesson given, and ending instatements of the most necessary points in household science. There arelarge books designed to cover this ground, and excellent of their kind, but so cumbrous in form and execution as to daunt the average reader. 

Miss Corson's "Cooking-School Text-Book" commended itself for itsadmirable plainness and fullness of detail, but was almost at once foundimpracticable as a system for my purposes; her dishes usually requiringthe choicest that the best city market could afford, and taking forgranted also a taste for French flavorings not yet common outside of ourlarge cities, and to no great extent within them. To utilize to the bestadvantage the food-resources of whatever spot one might be in, to giveinformation on a hundred points suggested by each lesson, yet having noplace in the ordinary cook-book, in short, _to teach household science aswell as cooking_, became my year's work; and it is that year's work whichis incorporated in these pages. Beginning with Raleigh, N. C. , and lessonsgiven in a large school there, it included also a seven-months' course atthe Deaf and Dumb Institute, and regular classes for ladies. Straightthrough, in those classes, it became my business to say, "This is noinfallible system, warranted to give the whole art of cooking in twelvelessons. All I can do for you is to lay down clearly certain fixedprinciples; to show you how to economize thoroughly, yet get a betterresult than by the expenditure of perhaps much more material. Before ourcourse ends, you will have had performed before you every essentialoperation in cooking, and will know, so far as I can make you know, prices, qualities, constituents, and physiological effects of every typeof food. Beyond this, the work lies in your own hands. "

Armed with manuals, --American, English, French, --bent upon systematizingthe subject, yet finding none entirely adequate, gradually, and in spiteof all effort to the contrary, I found that my teaching rested more andmore on my own personal experience as a housekeeper, both at the South andat the North. The mass of material in many books was found confusing andparalyzing, choice seeming impossible when a dozen methods were given. Andfor the large proportion of receipts, directions were so vague that only atrained housekeeper could be certain of the order of combination, orresults when combined. So from the crowd of authorities was graduallyeliminated a foundation for work; and on that foundation has risen astructure designed to serve two ends. 

For the young housekeeper, beginning with little or no knowledge, buteager to do and know the right thing, not alone for kitchen but for thehome as a whole, the list of topics touched upon in Part I. Becameessential. That much of the knowledge compressed there should have beengained at home, is at once admitted: but, unfortunately, few homes giveit; and the aim has been to cover the ground concisely yet clearly andattractively. As to Part II. , it does not profess to be the whole art ofcooking, but merely the line of receipts most needed in the averagefamily, North or South. Each receipt has been tested personally by thewriter, often many times; and each one is given so minutely that failureis well-nigh impossible, if the directions are intelligently followed. Afew distinctively Southern dishes are included, but the ground covered hasdrawn from all sources; the series of excellent and elaborate manuals bywell-known authors having contributed here and there, but the majority ofrules being, as before said, the result of years of personal experiment, or drawn from old family receipt-books. 

To facilitate the work of the teacher, however, a scheme of lessons isgiven at the end, covering all that can well be taught in the ordinaryschool year: each lesson is given with page references to the receiptsemployed, while a shorter and more compact course is outlined for the useof classes for ladies. A list of topics is also given for school use; ithaving been found to add greatly to the interest of the course to writeeach week the story of some ingredient in the lesson for the day, while aset of questions, to be used at periodical intervals, fixes details, andinsures a certain knowledge of what progress has been made. The coursecovers the chemistry and physiology of food, as well as an outline ofhousehold science in general, and may serve as a text-book wherever suchstudy is introduced. It is hoped that this presentation of the subjectwill lessen the labor necessary in this new field, though no text-book canfully take the place of personal enthusiastic work. 

That training is imperatively demanded for rich and poor alike, is nowunquestioned; but the mere taking a course of cooking-lessons alone doesnot meet the need in full. The present book aims to fill a place hithertounoccupied; and precisely the line of work indicated there has been foundthe only practical method in a year's successful organization of schoolsat various points. Whether used at home with growing girls, incooking-clubs, in schools, or in private classes, it is hoped that thesystem outlined and the authorities referred to will stimulate interest, and open up a new field of work to many who have doubted if the foodquestion had any interest beyond the day's need, and who have failed tosee that nothing ministering to the best life and thought of thiswonderful human body could ever by any chance be rightfully called "commonor unclean. " We are but on the threshold of the new science. If thesepages make the way even a little plainer, the author will haveaccomplished her full purpose, and will know that in spite of appearancesthere is "room for one more. "

HELEN CAMPBELL. 

_THE EASIEST WAY. _

CHAPTER I. 

THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT. 

From the beginning it must be understood that what is written here applieschiefly to country homes. The general principles laid down are applicablewith equal force to town or city life; but as a people we dwell mostly inthe country, and, even in villages or small towns, each house is likely tohave its own portion of land about it, and to look toward all points ofthe compass, instead of being limited to two, as in city blocks. Of thecomparative advantages or disadvantages of city or country life, there isno need to speak here. Our business is simply to give such details as mayapply to both, but chiefly to the owners of moderate incomes, or salariedpeople, whose expenditure must always be somewhat limited. With theexterior of such homes, women at present have very little to do; and theinterior also is thus far much in the hands of architects, who decide forgeneral prettiness of effect, rather than for the most convenientarrangement of space. The young bride, planning a home, is resolved upon abay-window, as large a parlor as possible, and an effective spare-room;but, having in most cases no personal knowledge of work, does notconsider whether kitchen and dining-room are conveniently planned, or not, and whether the arrangement of pantries and closets is such that bothrooms must be crossed a hundred times a day, when a little foresight mighthave reduced the number certainly by one-half, perhaps more. 

Inconvenience can, in most cases, be remedied; but unhealthfulness orunwholesomeness of location, very seldom: and therefore, in the beginning, I write that ignorance is small excuse for error, and that every one ableto read at all, or use common-sense about any detail of life, is able toform a judgment of what is healthful or unhealthful. If no books are athand, consult the best physician near, and have his verdict as to thecharacter of the spot in which more or less of your life in this worldwill be spent, and which has the power to affect not only your mental andbodily health, but that of your children. Because your fathers and mothershave been neglectful of these considerations, is no reason why you shouldcontinue in ignorance; and the first duty in making a home is to considerearnestly and intelligently certain points. 

Four essentials are to be thought of in the choice of any home; and theirneglect, and the ignorance which is the foundation of this neglect, arethe secret of not only the chronic ill-health supposed to be a necessityof the American organization, but of many of the epidemics and mysteriousdiseases classed under the head of "visitations of Providence. "

These essentials are: a wholesome situation, good ventilation, gooddrainage, and a dry cellar. Rich or poor, high or low, if one of these bedisregarded, the result will tell, either on your own health or on that ofyour family. Whether palace or hut, brown-stone front or simple woodencottage, the law is the same. As a rule, the ordinary town or village isbuilt upon low land, because it is easier to obtain a water-supply fromwells and springs. In such a case, even where the climate itself may betolerably healthy, the drainage from the hills at hand, or the nearness ofswamps and marshes produced by the same cause, makes a dry cellar animpossibility; and this shut-in and poisonous moisture makes malariainevitable. The dwellers on low lands are the pill and patent-medicinetakers; and no civilized country swallows the amount of tonics and bittersconsumed by our own. 

If possible, let the house be on a hill, or at least a rise of ground, tosecure the thorough draining-away of all sewage and waste water. Even in aswampy and malarious country, such a location will insure all the healthpossible in such a region, if the other conditions mentioned arefaithfully attended to. 

Let the living-rooms and bedrooms, as far as may be, have full sunshineduring a part of each day; and reserve the north side of the house forstore-rooms, refrigerator, and the rooms seldom occupied. Do not allowtrees to stand so near as to shut out air or sunlight; but see that, whilenear enough for beauty and for shade, they do not constantly shedmoisture, and make twilight in your rooms even at mid-day. Sunshine is theenemy of disease, which thrives in darkness and shadow. Consumption orscrofulous disease is almost inevitable in the house shut in by trees, whose blinds are tightly closed lest some ray of sunshine fade thecarpets; and over and over again it has been proved that the firstconditions of health are, abundant supply of pure air, and free admissionof sunlight to every nook and cranny. Even with imperfect or improperfood, these two allies are strong enough to carry the day for health; and, when the three work in harmony, the best life is at once assured. 

If the house must be on the lowlands, seek a sandy or gravelly soil; andavoid those built over clay beds, or even where clay bottom is found underthe sand or loam. In the last case, if drainage is understood, pipes maybe so arranged as to secure against any standing water; but, unless thisis done, the clammy moisture on walls, and the chill in every closed room, are sufficient indication that the conditions for disease are ripe orripening. The only course in such case, after seeking proper drainage, is, first, abundant sunlight, and, second, open fires, which will act not onlyas drying agents, but as ventilators and purifiers. Aim to have at leastone open fire in the house. It is not an extravagance, but an essential, and economy may better come in at some other place. 

Having settled these points as far as possible, --the question ofwater-supply and ventilation being left to another chapter, --it is to beremembered that the house is not merely a place to be made pleasant forone's friends. They form only a small portion of the daily life; and thefirst consideration should be: Is it so planned that the necessary andinevitable work of the day can be accomplished with the least expenditureof force? North and South, the kitchen is often the least-considered roomof the house; and, so long as the necessary meals are served up, thedifficulties that may have hedged about such serving are never counted. Atthe South it is doubly so, and necessarily; old conditions having mademuch consideration of convenience for servants an unthought-of thing. With a throng of unemployed women and children, the question could onlybe, how to secure some small portion of work for each one; and in suchcase, the greater the inconveniences, the more chance for such employment. Water could well be half a mile distant, when a dozen little darkies hadnothing to do but form a running line between house and spring; and sowith wood and kindling and all household necessities. 

To-day, with the old service done away with once for all, and with a setof new conditions governing every form of work, the Southern woman facesdifficulties to which her Northern or Western sister is an utter stranger;faces them often with a patience and dignity beyond all praise, but stillwith a hopelessness of better things, the necessary fruit of ignorance. Old things are passed away, and the new order is yet too unfamiliar forrules to have formulated and settled in any routine of action. While thereis, at the North, more intuitive and inherited sense of how things shouldbe done, there is on many points an almost equal ignorance, moreespecially among the cultivated classes, who, more than at any period ofwoman's history, are at the mercy of their servants. Every science islearned but domestic science. The schools ignore it; and, indeed, in therush toward an early graduation, there is small room for it. 

"She can learn at home, " say the mothers. "She will take to it when hertime comes, just as a duck takes to water, " add the fathers; and thematter is thus dismissed as settled. 

In the mean time the "she" referred to--the average daughter of averageparents in both city and country--neither "learns at home, " nor "takes toit naturally, " save in exceptional cases; and the reason for this isfound in the love, which, like much of the love given, is really only ahigher form of selfishness. The busy mother of a family, who has foughther own way to fairly successful administration, longs to spare herdaughters the petty cares, the anxious planning, that have helped to eatout her own youth; and so the young girl enters married life with a vaguesense of the dinners that must be, and a general belief that somehow orother they come of themselves. And so with all household labor. That toperform it successfully and skillfully, demands not only training, but thebest powers one can bring to bear upon its accomplishment, seldom entersthe mind; and the student, who has ended her course of chemistry orphysiology enthusiastically, never dreams of applying either to every-daylife. 

This may seem a digression; and yet, in the very outset, it is necessaryto place this work upon the right footing, and to impress with allpossible earnestness the fact, that Household Science holds every otherscience in tribute, and that only that home which starts with thisadmission and builds upon the best foundation the best that thought canfurnish, has any right to the name of "home. " The swarms of drunkards, ofidiots, of insane, of deaf and dumb, owe their existence to an ignoranceof the laws of right living, which is simply criminal, and for which wemust be judged; and no word can be too earnest, which opens the younggirl's eyes to the fact that in her hands lie not alone her own or herhusband's future, but the future of the nation. It is hard to see beyondone's own circle; but if light is sought for, and there is steady resolveand patient effort to do the best for one's individual self, and thosenearest one, it will be found that the shadow passes, and that progress isan appreciable thing. 

Begin in your own home. Study to make it not only beautiful, but perfectlyappointed. If your own hands must do the work, learn every method ofeconomizing time and strength. If you have servants, whether one or more, let the same laws rule. It is not easy, I admit; no good thing is: butthere is infinite reward for every effort. Let no failure discourage, butlet each one be only a fresh round in the ladder all must climb who woulddo worthy work; and be sure that the end will reward all pain, allself-sacrifice, and make you truly the mistresses of the home for whichevery woman naturally and rightfully hopes, but which is never truly herstill every shade of detail in its administration has been mastered. 

The house, then, is the first element of home to be considered andstudied; and we have settled certain points as to location andarrangement. This is no hand-book of plans for houses, that ground beingthoroughly covered in various books, --the titles of two or three of whichare given in a list of reference-books at the end. But, whether you buildor buy, see to it that your kitchens and working-rooms are well lighted, well aired, and of good size, and that in the arrangement of the kitchenespecially, the utmost convenience becomes the chief end. Let sink, pantries, stove or range, and working-space for all operations in cooking, be close at hand. The difference between a pantry at the opposite end ofthe room, and one opening close to the sink, for instance, may seem asmall matter; but when it comes to walking across the room with every dishthat is washed, the steps soon count up as miles, and in making even aloaf of bread, the time and strength expended in gathering materialstogether would go far toward the thorough kneading, which, when added tothe previous exertion, makes the whole operation, which might have beenonly a pleasure, a burden and an annoyance. 

Let, then, stove, fuel, water, work-table, and pantries be at the same endof the kitchen, and within a few steps of one another, and it will befound that while the general labor of each day must always be the same, the time required for its accomplishment will be far less, under thesefavorable conditions. The successful workman, --the type-setter, thecabinet-maker, or carpenter, --whose art lies in the rapid combination ofmaterials, arranges his materials and tools so as to be used with thefewest possible movements; and the difference between a skilled andunskilled workman is not so much the rate of speed in movement, as in theability to make each motion tell. The kitchen is the housekeeper'sworkshop; and, in the chapter on _House-work_, some further details as tomethods and arrangements will be given. 

CHAPTER II. 

THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

Having settled the four requisites in any home, and suggested the pointsto be made in regard to the first one, --that of wholesomesituation, --_Ventilation_ is next in order. Theoretically, each one of uswho has studied either natural philosophy or physiology will state atonce, with more or less glibness, the facts as to the atmosphere, itsqualities, and the amount of air needed by each individual; practicallynullifying such statement by going to bed in a room with closed windowsand doors, or sitting calmly in church or public hall, breathing over andover again the air ejected from the lungs all about, --practice as cleanlyand wholesome as partaking of food chewed over and over by anindiscriminate crowd. 

Now, as to find the Reason Why of all statements and operations is ourfirst consideration, the familiar ground must be traversed again, and theproperties and constituents of air find place here. It is an old story, and, like other old stories accepted by the multitude, has become almostof no effect; passive acceptance mentally, absolute rejection physically, seeming to be the portion of much of the gospel of health. "Cleanliness isnext to godliness, " is almost an axiom. I am disposed to amend it, andassert that cleanliness _is_ godliness, or a form of godliness. At anyrate, the man or woman who demands cleanliness without and within, thiscleanliness meaning pure air, pure water, pure food, must of necessityhave a stronger body and therefore a clearer mind (both being nearer whatGod meant for body and mind) than the one who has cared little for law, and so lived oblivious to the consequences of breaking it. 

Ventilation, seemingly the simplest and easiest of things to beaccomplished, has thus far apparently defied architects and engineers. Congress has spent a million in trying to give fresh air to the Senate andRepresentative Chambers, and will probably spend another before that isaccomplished. In capitols, churches, and public halls of every sort, thesame story holds. Women faint, men in courts of justice fall in apoplecticfits, or become victims of new and mysterious diseases, simply from thewant of pure air. A constant slow murder goes on in nurseries andschoolrooms; and white-faced, nerveless children grow into white-faced andnerveless men and women, as the price of this violated law. 

What is this air, seemingly so hard to secure, so hard to hold as part ofour daily life, without which we can not live, and which we yetcontentedly poison nine times out of ten?

Oxygen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and watery vapor; the last two being asmall portion of the bulk, oxygen and nitrogen making up four-fifths. Small as the proportion of oxygen seems, an increase of but one-fifth morewould be destruction. It is the life-giver, but undiluted would be thelife-destroyer; and the three-fifths of nitrogen act as its diluent. Noother element possesses the same power. Fires and light-giving combustioncould not exist an instant without oxygen. Its office seems that ofuniversal destruction. By its action decay begins in meat or vegetablesand fruits; and it is for this reason, that, to preserve them, all oxygenmust be driven out by bringing them to the boiling point, and sealing themup in jars to which no air can find entrance. With only undiluted oxygento breathe, the tissues would dry and shrivel, fuel burn with a fury nonecould withstand, and every operation of nature be conducted with suchenergy as soon to exhaust and destroy all power. But "a mixture of thefiery oxygen and inert nitrogen gives us the golden mean. The oxygen nowquietly burns the fuel in our stoves, and keeps us warm; combines with theoil in our lamps, and gives us light; corrodes our bodies, and gives usstrength; cleanses the air, and keeps it fresh and invigorating; sweetensfoul water, and makes it wholesome; works all around us and within us aconstant miracle, yet with such delicacy and quietness, we never perceiveor think of it, until we see it with the eye of science. "

Food and air are the two means by which bodies live. In the full-grownman, whose weight will average about one hundred and fifty-four pounds, one hundred and eleven pounds is oxygen drawn from the air we breathe. Only when food has been dissolved in the stomach, absorbed at last intothe blood, and by means of circulation brought into contact with theoxygen of the air taken into our lungs, can it begin to really feed andnourish the body; so that the lungs may, after all, be regarded as thetrue stomach, the other being not much more than the food-receptacle. 

Take these lungs, made up within of branching tubes, these in turn formedby myriads of air-cells, and each air-cell owning its network of minutecells called _capillaries_. To every air-cell is given a blood-vesselbringing blood from the heart, which finds its way through every capillarytill it reaches another blood-vessel that carries it back to the heart. Itleaves the heart charged with carbonic acid and watery vapor. It returns, if pure air has met it in the lung, with all corruption destroyed, adancing particle of life. But to be life, and not slow death, thirty-threehogsheads of air must pass daily into the lungs, and twenty-eight poundsof blood journey from heart to lungs and back again three times in eachhour. It rests wholly with ourselves, whether this wonderful tide, ebbingand flowing with every breath, shall exchange its poisonous and cloggingcarbonic acid and watery vapor for life-giving oxygen, or retain it toweigh down and debilitate every nerve in the body. 

With every thought and feeling some actual particles of brain and nerveare dissolved, and sent floating on this crimson current. With everymotion of a muscle, whether great or small, with every process that cantake place in the body, this ceaseless change of particles is going on. Wherever oxygen finds admission, its union with carbon to form carbonicacid, or with hydrogen to form water, produces heat. The waste of the bodyis literally burned up by the oxygen; and it is this burning which meansthe warmth of a living body, its absence giving the stony cold of thedead. "Who shall deliver me from the body of this death?" may well be theliteral question for each day of our lives; and "pure air" alone cansecure genuine life. Breathing bad air reduces all the processes of thebody, lessens vitality; and thus, one in poor health will suffer more frombad air than those who have become thoroughly accustomed to it. Ifweakened vitality were the only result, it would not be so serious amatter; but scrofula is soon fixed upon such constitutions, beginning withits milder form as in consumption, but ending in the absolute rottennessof bone and tissue. The invalid may live in the healthiest climate, passhours each day in the open air, and yet undo or neutralize much of thegood of this by sleeping in an unventilated room at night. Diseasedjoints, horrible affections of the eye or ear or skin, are inevitable. Thegreatest living authorities on lung-diseases pronounce deficientventilation the chief cause of consumption, and more fatal _than all othercauses put together_; and, even where food and clothing are bothunwholesome, free air has been found able to counteract their effect. 

In the country the balance ordained in nature has its compensating power. The poisonous carbonic acid thrown off by lungs and body is absorbed byvegetation whose food it is, and which in every waving leaf or blade ofgrass returns to us the oxygen we demand. Shut in a close room all day, oreven in a tolerably ventilated one, there may be no sense of closeness;but go to the open air for a moment, and, if the nose has not beenhopelessly ruined by want of education, it will tell unerringly the degreeof oxygen wanting and required. 

It is ordinarily supposed that carbonic-acid gas, being heavier, sinks tothe bottom of the room, and that thus trundle-beds, for instance, areespecially unwholesome. This would be so, were the gas pure. As a matterof fact, however, being warmed in the body, and thus made lighter, itrises into the common air, so that usually more will be found at the topthan at the bottom of a room. This gas is, however, not the sole cause ofdisease. From both lungs and skin, matter is constantly thrown off, andfloats in the form of germs in all impure air. To a person who by longconfinement to close rooms has become so sensitive that any sudden currentof air gives a cold, ventilation seems an impossibility and a cruelty; andthe problem becomes: How to admit pure air throughout the house, and yetavoid currents and draughts. "Night-air" is even more dreaded than theconfined air of rooms; yet, as the only air to be had at night must comeunder this head, it is safer to breathe that than to settle upon carbonicacid as lung-food for a third, at least, of the twenty-four hours. Asfires feed on oxygen, it follows that every lamp, every gas-jet, everyfurnace, are so many appetites satisfying themselves upon our store offood, and that, if they are burning about us, a double amount of oxygenmust be furnished. 

The only mode of ventilation that will work always and without fail isthat of a warm-air flue, the upward heated air-current of which draws offthe foul gases from the room: this, supplemented by an opening on theopposite side of the room for the admission of pure air, will accomplishthe desired end. An open fire-place will secure this, provided the flue iskept warm by heat from the kitchen fire, or some other during seasons whenthe fire-place is not used. But perhaps the simplest way is to have ampleopenings (from eight to twelve inches square) at the top and bottom ofeach room, opening into the chimney-flue: then, even if a stove is used, the flue can be kept heated by the extension of the stove-pipe somedistance up within the chimney, and the ascending current of hot air willdraw the foul air from the room into the flue. This, as before stated, must be completed by a fresh-air opening into the room on another side: ifno other can be had, the top of the window may be lowered a little. Thestove-pipe _extension_ within the chimney would better be of cast-iron, asmore durable than the sheet-iron. When no fire is used in thesleeping-rooms, the chimney-flue must be heated by pipes from the kitchenor other fires; and, with the provision for _fresh_ air never forgotten, this simple device will invariably secure pure and well-oxygenated air forbreathing. "Fussy and expensive, " may be the comment; but the expense isless than the average yearly doctor's bill, and the fussiness nothing thatyour own hands must engage in. Only let heads take it in, and see to itthat no neglect is allowed. In a southern climate doors and windows are ofnecessity open more constantly; but at night they are closed from the fearreferred to, that night-air holds some subtle poison. It is merely colder, and perhaps moister, than day-air; and an extra bed-covering neutralizesthis danger. Once accustomed to sleeping with open windows, you will findthat taking cold is impossible. 

If custom, or great delicacy of organization, makes unusual sensitivenessto cold, have a board the precise width of the window, and five or sixinches high. Then raise the lower sash, putting this under it; and anupward current of air will be created, which will in great part purify theroom. 

Beyond every thing, watch that no causes producing foul air are allowed toexist for a moment. A vase of neglected flowers will poison the air of awhole room. In the area or cellar, a decaying head of cabbage, a basket ofrefuse vegetables, a forgotten barrel of pork or beef brine, a neglectedgarbage pail or box, are all premiums upon disease. Let air and sunlightsearch every corner of the house. Insist upon as nearly spotless_cleanliness_ as may be, and the second prime necessity of the home issecure. 

When, as it is written, man was formed from the dust of the earth, theLord God "breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a_living soul_. "

Shut off that breath of life, or poison it as it is daily poisoned, andnot only body, but soul, dies. The child, fresh from its long day out ofdoors, goes to bed quiet, content, and happy. It wakes up a little demon, bristling with crossness, and determined not to "be good. " The breath oflife carefully shut out, death has begun its work, and you areresponsible. And the same criminal blunder causes not only the child'ssuffering, but also the weakness which makes many a delicate womancomplain that it "takes till noon to get her strength up. "

Open the windows. Take the portion to which you were born, and life willgrow easier. 

CHAPTER III. 

DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 

Air and sunshine having been assured for all parts of the house in dailyuse, the next question must be an unfailing and full supply of pure water. "Dig a well, or build near a spring, " say the builders; and the well isdug, or the spring tapped, under the general supposition that water isclean and pure, simply because it is water, while the surroundings ofeither spring or well are unnoticed. Drainage is so comparatively new aquestion, that only the most enlightened portions of the country considerits bearings; and the large majority of people all over the land not onlydo not know the interests involved in it, but would resent as a personalslight any hint that their own water-supply might be affected by deficientdrainage. 

Pure water is simply oxygen and hydrogen, eight-ninths being oxygen andbut one-ninth hydrogen; the latter gas, if pure, having, like oxygen, neither taste nor smell. Rain-water is the purest type; and, if collectedin open vessels as it falls, is necessarily free from any possible taint(except at the very first of a rain, when it washes down considerablefloating impurity from the atmosphere, especially in cities). This modebeing for obvious reasons impracticable, cisterns are made, and rainconducted to them through pipes leading from the roof. The water has thustaken up all the dust, soot, and other impurities found upon the roof, and, unless filtered, can not be considered desirable drink. The bestcistern will include a filter of some sort, and this is accomplished intwo ways. Either the cistern is divided into two parts, the water beingreceived on one side, and allowed to slowly filter through a wall ofporous brick, regarded by many as an amply sufficient means ofpurification; or a more elaborate form is used, the division in such casebeing into upper and under compartments, the upper one containing theusual filter of iron, charcoal, sponge, and gravel or sand. If this waterhas a free current of air passing over it, it will acquire more sparkleand character; but as a rule it is flat and unpleasant in flavor, beingentirely destitute of the earthy salts and the carbonic-acid gas to befound in the best river or spring water. 

Distilled water comes next in purity, and is, in fact, identical incharacter with rain-water; the latter being merely steam, condensed intorain in the great alembic of the sky. But both have the curious propertyof taking up and dissolving _lead_ wherever they find it; and it is forthis reason that lead pipes as leaders from or to cisterns should _never_be allowed, unless lined with some other metal. 

The most refreshing as well as most wholesome water is river or springwater, perfectly filtered so that no possible impurity can remain. It isthen soft and clear; has sufficient air and carbonic acid to make itrefreshing, and enough earthy salts to prevent its taking up lead, and sobecoming poisonous. River-water for daily use of course requires a systemof pipes, and in small places is practically unavailable; so that wellsare likely, in such case, to be the chief source of supply. Such waterwill of course be spring-water, with the characteristics of the soilthrough which it rises. If the well be shallow, and fed by surfacesprings, all impurities of the soil will be found in it; and thus to _digdeep_ becomes essential, for many reasons. Dr. Parker of England, in somepapers on practical hygiene, gives a clear and easily understood statementof some causes affecting the purity of well-water. 

"A well drains an extent of ground around it, in the shape of an invertedcone, which is in proportion to its own depth and the looseness of thesoil. In very loose soils a well of sixty or eighty feet will drain alarge area, perhaps as much as two hundred feet in diameter, or even more;but the exact amount is not, as far as I know, precisely determined. 

"Certain trades pour their refuse water into rivers, gas-works;slaughter-houses; tripe-houses; size, horn, and isinglass manufactories;wash-houses, starch-works, and calico-printers, and many others. In housesit is astonishing how many instances occur of the water of butts, cisterns, and tanks, getting contaminated by leaking of pipes and othercauses, such as the passage of sewer-gas through overflow-pipes, &c. 

"As there is now no doubt that typhoid-fever, cholera, and dysentery maybe caused by water rendered impure by the evacuations passed in thosediseases, and as simple diarrhoea seems also to be largely caused byanimal organic [matter in] suspension or solution, it is evident hownecessary it is to be quick-sighted in regard to the possible impurity ofwater from incidental causes of this kind. Therefore all tanks andcisterns should be inspected regularly, and any accidental source ofimpurity must be looked out for. Wells should be covered; a good copingput round to prevent substances being washed down; the distances fromcess-pools and dung-heaps should be carefully noted; no sewer should beallowed to pass near a well. The same precautions should be taken withsprings. In the case of rivers, we must consider if contamination canresult from the discharge of fecal matters, trade refuse, &c. "

Now, suppose all such precautions have been disregarded. Suppose, as ismost usual, that the well is dug near the kitchen-door, --probably betweenkitchen and barn; the drain, if there is a drain from the kitchen, pouringout the dirty water of wash-day and all other days, which sinks throughthe ground, and acts as feeder to the waiting well. Suppose themanure-pile in the barnyard also sends down its supply, and the priviescontribute theirs. The water may be unchanged in color or odor: yet nonethe less you are drinking a foul and horrible poison; slow in action, itis true, but making you ready for diphtheria and typhoid-fever, andconsumption, and other nameless ills. It is so easy to doubt or set asideall this, that I give one case as illustration and warning of all theevils enumerated above. 

The State Board of Health for Massachusetts has long busied itself withresearches on all these points, and the case mentioned is in one of theirreports. The house described is one in Hadley, built by a clergyman. "Itwas provided with an open well and sink-drain, with its deposit-box inclose proximity thereto, affording facility to discharge its gases in thewell as the most convenient place. The cellar was used, as country cellarscommonly are, for the storage of provisions of every kind, and thewindows were never opened. The only escape for the soil-moisture andground-air, except that which was absorbed by the drinking-water, wasthrough the crevices of the floors into the rooms above. After a fewmonths' residence in the house, the clergyman's wife died of fever. Hesoon married again; and the second wife also died of fever, within a yearfrom the time of marriage. His children were sick. He occupied the houseabout two years. The wife of his successor was soon taken ill, and barelyescaped with her life. A physician then took the house. He married, andhis wife soon after died of fever. Another physician took the house, andwithin a few months came near dying of erysipelas. He deserved it. Thehouse, meanwhile, received no treatment; the doctors, according to theirusual wont, even in their own families, were satisfied to deal with theconsequences, and leave the causes to do their worst. 

"Next after the doctors, a school-teacher took the house, and made a fewchanges, for convenience apparently, for substantially it remained thesame; for he, too, escaped as by the skin of his teeth. Finally, after theforeclosure of many lives, the sickness and fatality of the propertybecame so marked, that it became unsalable. When at last sold, every sortof prediction was made as to the risk of occupancy; but, by a thoroughattention to sanitary conditions, no such risks have been encountered. "

These deaths were suicides, --ignorant ones, it is true, not one stoppingto think what causes lay at the bottom of such "mysterious dispensations. "But, just as surely as corn gives a crop from the seed sown, so surelytyphoid fever and diphtheria follow bad drainage or the drinking ofimpure water. 

Boiling such water destroys the germs of disease; but neither boiled waternor boiled germs are pleasant drinking. 

If means are too narrow to admit of the expense attendant upon making adrain long enough and tight enough to carry off all refuse water to a safedistance from the house, then adopt another plan. Remember that to throwdirty water on the ground near a well, is as deliberate poisoning as ifyou threw arsenic in the well itself. Have a large tub or barrel standingon a wheelbarrow or small hand-cart; and into this pour every drop ofdirty water, wheeling it away to orchard or garden, where it will enrichthe soil, which will transform it, and return it to you, not in disease, but in fruit and vegetables. Also see that the well has a roof, and, ifpossible, a lattice-work about it, that all leaves and flying dirt may beprevented from falling into it. You do not want your water to be asolution or tincture of dead leaves, dead frogs and insects, or stray miceor kittens; and this it must be, now and again, if not coveredsufficiently to exclude such chances, _though not the air_, which must begiven free access to it. 

As to hard and soft water, the latter is always most desirable, as softwater extracts the flavor of tea and coffee far better than hard, and isalso better for all cooking and washing purposes. Hard water results froma superabundance of lime; and this lime "cakes" on the bottom oftea-kettles, curdles soap, and clings to every thing boiled in it, fromclothes to meat and vegetables (which last are always more tender ifcooked in soft water; though, if it be too soft, they are apt to boil to aporridge). 

Washing-soda or borax will soften hard water, and make it better for allhousehold purposes; but rain-water, even if not desired for drinking, willbe found better than any softened by artificial means. 

If, as in many towns, the supply of drinking-water for many families comesfrom the town pump or pumps, the same principles must be attended to. Awell in Golden Square, London, was noted for its especially bright andsparkling water, so much so that people sent from long distances to secureit. The cholera broke out; and all who drank from the well became itsvictims, though the square seemed a healthy location. Analysis showed itto be not only alive with a species of fungus growing in it, but alsoweighted with dead organic matter from a neighboring churchyard. Everytissue in the living bodies which had absorbed this water was inflamed, and ready to yield to the first epidemic; and cholera was the naturaloutcome of such conditions. Knowledge should guard against any suchchances. See to it that no open cesspool poisons either air or water aboutyour home. Sunk at a proper distance from the house, and connected with itby a drain so tightly put together that none of the contents can escape, the cesspool, which may be an elaborate, brick-lined cistern, or merely anold hogshead thoroughly tarred within and without, and sunk in the ground, becomes one of the most important adjuncts of a good garden. If, inaddition to this, a pile of all the decaying vegetable matter--leaves, weeds, &c. --is made, all dead cats, hens, or puppies finding burial there;and the whole closely covered with earth to absorb, as fresh earth has thepower to do, all foul gases and vapors; and if at intervals the pile iswet through with liquid from the cesspool, the richest form of fertilizeris secured, and one of the great agricultural duties of manfulfilled, --that of "returning to the soil, as fertilizers, all the saltsproduced by the combustion of food in the human body. "

Where the water-supply is brought into the house from a common reservoir, much the same rules hold good. We can not of course control the characterof the general supply, but we can see to it that our own water and wastepipes are in the most perfect condition; that traps and all the bestmethods of preventing the escape of sewer-gas into our houses areprovided; that stationary or "set" basins have the plug always in them;and that every water-closet is provided with a ventilating pipesufficiently high and long to insure the full escape of all gases from thehouse. Simple disinfectants used from time to time--chloride of lime andcarbolic acid--will be found useful, and the most absolute cleanliness isat all times the first essential. 

With air and water at their best, the home has a reasonable chance ofescaping many of the sorrows brought by disease or uncertain health; and, the power to work to the best advantage being secured, we may now pass tothe forms that work must take. 

CHAPTER IV. 

THE DAY'S WORK. 

It is safe to say that no class of women in the civilized world issubjected to such incessant trials of temper, and such temptation to befretful, as the American housekeeper. The reasons for this state of thingsare legion; and, if in the beginning we take ground from which the wholefield may be clearly surveyed, we may be able to secure a betterunderstanding of what housekeeping means, and to guard against some of thedangers accompanying it. 

The first difficulty lies in taking for granted that successfulhousekeeping is as much an instinct as that which leads the young bird tonest-building, and that no specific training is required. The man whoundertakes a business, passes always through some form of apprenticeship, and must know every detail involved in the management; but to the largeproportion of women, housekeeping is a combination of accidental forcesfrom whose working it is hoped breakfasts and dinners and suppers will beevolved at regular periods, other necessities finding place where theycan. The new home, prettily furnished, seems a lovely toy, and issurrounded by a halo, which, as facts assert themselves, quickly fadesaway. Moth and rust and dust invade the most secret recesses. Breakage andgeneral disaster attend the progress of Bridget or Chloe. The kitchenseems the headquarters of extraordinary smells, and the stove an abyss inits consumption of coal or wood. Food is wasted by bad cooking, orignorance as to needed amounts, or methods of using left-over portions;and, as bills pile up, a hopeless discouragement often settles upon bothwife and husband, and reproaches and bitterness and alienation are guestsin the home, to which they need never have come had a little knowledgebarred them out. 

In the beginning, then, be sure of one thing, --that all the wisdom youhave or can acquire, all the patience and tact and self-denial you canmake yours by the most diligent effort, will be needed every day and everyhour of the day. Details are in themselves wearying, and to most men theirrelation to housekeeping is unaccountable. The day's work of a systematichousekeeper would confound the best-trained man of business. In thewoman's hand is the key to home-happiness, but it is folly to assert thatall lies with her. Let it be felt from the beginning that her station is adifficult one, that her duties are important, and that judgment and skillmust guide their performance; let boys be taught the honor that lies insuch duties, --and there will be fewer heedless and unappreciativehusbands. On the other hand, let the woman remember that the good generaldoes not waste words on hindrances, or leave his weak spots open toobservation, but, learning from every failure or defeat, goes on steadilyto victory. To fret will never mend a matter; and "Study to be quiet" inthought, word, and action, is the first law of successful housekeeping. Never under-estimate the difficulties to be met, for this is as much anevil as over-apprehension. The best-arranged plans may be overturned at amoment's notice. In a mixed family, habits and pursuits differ so widelythat the housekeeper must hold herself in readiness to find her mostcherished schemes set aside. Absolute adherence to a system is onlyprofitable so far as the greatest comfort and well-being of the family areaffected; and, dear as a fixed routine may be to the housekeeper's mind, it may often well be sacrificed to the general pleasure or comfort. Aquiet, controlled mind, a soft voice, no matter what the provocation toraise it may be, is "an excellent thing in woman. " And the certainty that, hard as such control may be, it holds the promise of the best and fullestlife here and hereafter, is a motive strong enough, one would think, toinsure its adoption. Progress may be slow, but the reward for every stepforward is certain. 

We have already found that each day has its fixed routine, and are readynow to take up the order of work, which will be the same in degree whetherone servant is kept, or many, or none. The latter state of things willoften happen in the present uncertain character of household service. Oldfamily servants are becoming more and more rare; and, unless the newgeneration is wisely trained, we run the risk of being even more at theirmercy in the future than in the past. 

First, then, on rising in the morning, see that a full current of air canpass through every sleeping-room; remove all clothes from the beds, andallow them to air at least an hour. Only in this way can we be sure thatthe impurities, thrown off from even the cleanest body by the pores duringthe night, are carried off. A neat housekeeper is often tempted to makebeds, or have them made, almost at once; but no practice can be moreunwholesome. 

While beds and bedrooms are airing, breakfast is to be made ready, thetable set, and kitchen and dining-room put in order. The kitchen-fire mustfirst be built. If a gas or oil stove can be used, the operations are allsimpler. If not, it is always best to have dumped the grate the nightbefore if coal is used, and to have laid the fire ready for lighting. Inthe morning brush off all ashes, and wipe or blacken the stove. Strong, thick gloves, and a neat box for brushes, blacking, &c. , will make this amuch less disagreeable operation than it sounds. Rinse out the tea-kettle, fill it with fresh water, and put over to boil. Then remove the ashes, and, if coal is used, sift them, as cinders can be burned a large part ofthe time where only a moderate fire is desired. 

The table can be set, and the dining or sitting room swept, or merelybrushed up and dusted, in the intervals of getting breakfast. To haveevery thing clean, hot, and not only well prepared but ready on time, isthe first law, not only for breakfast, but for every other meal. 

After breakfast comes the dish-washing, dreaded by all beginners, butneedlessly so. With a full supply of all conveniences, --plenty of soap andsapolio, which is far better and cleaner to use than either sand or ashes;with clean, soft towels for glass and silver; a mop, the use of which notonly saves the hands but enables you to have hotter water; and a fullsupply of coarser towels for the heavier dishes, --the work can go onswiftly. Let the dish-pan be half full of hot soap and water. _Wash glassfirst_, paying no attention to the old saying that "hot water rots glass. "Be careful never to put glass into hot water, bottom first, as the suddenexpansion may crack it. Slip it in edgeways, and the finest and mostdelicate cut-glass will be safe. _Wash silver next. _ Hot suds, and instantwiping on dry soft cloths, will retain the brightness of silver, whichtreated in this way requires much less polishing, and therefore lastslonger. If any pieces require rubbing, use a little whiting made into apaste, and put on wet. Let it dry, and then polish with a chamois-skin. Once a month will be sufficient for rubbing silver, if it is properlywashed. _China comes next_--all plates having been carefully scraped, andall cups rinsed out. To fill the pan with unscraped and unrinsed dishes, and pour half-warm water over the whole, is a method too often adopted;and the results are found in sticky dishes and lustreless silver. Put allchina, silver, and glass in their places as soon as washed. Then take anytin or iron pans, wash, wipe with a dry towel, and put near the fire todry thoroughly. A knitting-needle or skewer may be kept to dig out cornersunreachable by dishcloth or towel, and if perfectly dried they will remainfree from rust. 

The cooking-dishes, saucepans, &c. , come next in order; and here the wiredish-cloth will be found useful, as it does not scratch, yet answers everypurpose of a knife. Every pot, kettle, and saucepan must be put into thepan of hot water. If very greasy, it is well to allow them to stand partlyfull of water in which a few drops of ammonia have been put. The _outsidemust be washed_ as carefully as the inside. Till this is done, there willalways be complaint of the unpleasantness of handling cooking-utensils. Properly done, they are as clean as the china or glass. 

Plated knives save much work. If steel ones are used, they must bepolished after every meal. In washing them, see that the handles are neverallowed to touch the water. Ivory discolors and cracks if wet. Bristol-brick finely powdered is the best polisher, and, mixed with alittle water, can be applied with a large cork. A regular knife-board, ora small board on which you can nail three strips of wood in box form, willgive you the best mode of keeping brick and cork in place. After rubbing, wash clean, and wipe dry. 

The dish-towels are the next consideration. A set should be used but aweek, and must be washed and rinsed each day if you would not have theflavor of dried-in dish-water left on your dishes. Dry them, if possible, in the open air: if not, have a rack, and stand them near the fire. Onwashing-days, let those that have been used a week have a thoroughboiling. The close, sour smell that all housekeepers have noticed aboutdish-towels comes from want of boiling and drying in fresh air, and isunpardonable and unnecessary. 

Keep hot water constantly in your kettles or water-pots, by alwaysremembering to fill with cold when you take out hot. Put away everyarticle carefully in its place. 

If tables are stained, and require any scrubbing, remember that to wash orscrub wood you must follow the grain, as rubbing across it rubs the dirtin instead of taking it off. 

The same rule applies to floors. A clean, coarse cloth, hot suds, and agood scrubbing-brush, will simplify the operation. Wash off the table;then dip the brush in the suds, and scour with the grain of the wood. Finally wash off all soapy water, and wipe dry. To save strength, thetable on which dishes are washed may be covered with kitchen oilcloth, which will merely require washing and wiping; with an occasional scrubbingfor the table below. 

The table must be cleaned as soon as the dishes are washed, because ifdishes stand upon tables the fragments of food have time to harden, andthe washing is made doubly hard. 

Leaving the kitchen in order, the bedrooms will come next. Turn themattresses daily, and make the bed smoothly and carefully. Put the undersheet with the wrong side next the bed, and the upper one with the markedend always at the top, to avoid the part where the feet lie, from beingreversed and so reaching the face. The sheets should be large enough totuck in thoroughly, three yards long by two and a half wide being none toolarge for a double bed. Pillows should be beaten and then smoothed withthe hand, and the aim be to have an even, unwrinkled surface. As to theuse of shams, whether sheet or pillow, it is a matter of taste; but in allcases, covered or uncovered, let the bed-linen be daintily clean. 

Empty all slops, and with hot water wash out all the bowls, pitchers, &c. , using separate cloths for these purposes, and never toilet towels. Dustthe room, arrange every thing in place, and, if in summer, close theblinds, and darken till evening, that it may be as cool as possible. 

Sweeping days for bedrooms need come but once a week, but all rooms usedby many people require daily sweeping; halls, passages, and dining andsitting rooms coming under this head. Careful dusting daily will often doaway with the need of frequent sweeping, which wears out carpetsunnecessarily. A carpet-sweeper is a real economy, both in time andstrength; but, if not obtainable, a light broom carefully handled, notwith a long stroke which sends clouds of dust over every thing, but with ashort quick one, which only experience can give, is next best. For athorough sweeping, remove as many articles from the room as possible, dusting each one thoroughly, and cover the larger ones which must remainwith old sheets or large squares of common unbleached cotton cloth, keptfor this purpose. If the furniture is rep or woolen of any description, dust about each button, that no moth may find lodgment, and then coverclosely. A feather duster, long or short, as usually applied, is the enemyof cleanliness. Its only legitimate use is for the tops of pictures orbooks and ornaments; and such dusting should be done _before_ the room isswept, as well as afterward, the first one removing the heaviest coating, which would otherwise be distributed over the room. For piano, andfurniture of delicate woods generally, old silk handkerchiefs make thebest dusters. For all ordinary purposes, squares of old cambric, hemmed, and washed when necessary, will be found best. Insist upon their beingkept for this purpose, and forbid the use of toilet towels, always atemptation to the average servant. Remember that in dusting, the processshould be a _wiping_; not a flirting of the cloth, which simply sends thedust up into the air to settle down again about where it was before. 

If moldings and wash-boards or wainscotings are wiped off with a dampcloth, one fruitful source of dust will be avoided. For all intricate worklike the legs of pianos, carved backs of furniture, &c. , a pair of smallbellows will be found most efficient. Brooms, dust-pan, and brushes longand short, whisk-broom, feather and other dusters, should have one fixedplace, and be returned to it after every using. If oil-cloth is on hallsor passages, it should be washed weekly with warm milk and water, a quartof skim-milk to a pail of water being sufficient. Never use soap orscrubbing-brush, as they destroy both color and texture. 

All brass or silver-plated work about fire-place, doorknobs, or bath-roomfaucets, should be cleaned once a week and before sweeping. For silver, rub first with powdered whiting moistened with a little alcohol or hotwater. Let it dry on, and then polish with a dry chamois-skin. If there isany intricate work, use a small toothbrush. Whiting, silver-soap, cloths, chamois, and brushes should all be kept in a box together. In another maybe the rotten-stone necessary for cleaning brass, a small bottle of oil, and some woolen cloths. Old merino or flannel under-wear makes excellentrubbing-cloths. Mix the rotten-stone with enough oil to make a paste; rubon with one cloth, and polish with another. Thick gloves can be worn, andall staining of the hands avoided. 

The bedrooms and the necessary daily sweeping finished, a look into cellarand store-rooms is next in order, --in the former, to see that no decayingvegetable matter is allowed to accumulate; in the latter, that bread-jaror boxes are dry and sweet, and all stores in good condition. 

Where there are servants, it should be understood that the mistress makesthis daily progress. Fifteen minutes or half an hour will often cover thetime consumed; but it should be a fixed duty never omitted. A look intothe refrigerator or meat-safe to note what is left and suggest the bestuse for it; a glance at towels and dish-cloths to see that all are cleanand sweet, and another under all sinks and into each pantry, --will preventthe accumulation of bones and stray bits of food and dirty rags, theparadise of the cockroach, and delight of mice and rats. A servant, ifhonest, will soon welcome such investigation, and respect her mistress themore for insisting upon it, and, if not, may better find other quarters. One strong temptation to dishonesty is removed where such inspection iscertain, and the weekly bills will be less than in the house where mattersare left to take care of themselves. 

The preparation of dinner if at or near the middle of the day, and thedish-washing which follows, end the heaviest portion of the day's work;and the same order must be followed. Only an outline can be given; eachfamily demanding variations in detail, and each head of a family in timebuilding up her own system. Remember, however, that, if but one servant iskept, she can not do every thing, and that your own brain must constantlysupplement her deficiencies, until training and long practice have madeyour methods familiar. Even then she is likely at any moment to leave, andthe battle to begin over again; and the only safeguard in time of suchdisaster is personal knowledge as to simplest methods of doing the work, and inexhaustible patience in training the next applicant, finding comfortin the thought, that, if your own home has lost, that of some one else isby so much the gainer. 

CHAPTER V. 

FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 

The popular idea of a fire to cook by seems to be, a red-hot top, thecover of every pot and saucepan dancing over the bubbling, heavingcontents, and coal packed in even with the covers. Try to convince aservant that the lid need not hop to assure boiling, nor the fire riseabove the fire-box, and there is a profound skepticism, which, even if notexpressed, finds vent in the same amount of fuel and the same generalcourse of action as before the remonstrance. 

The modern stove has brought simplicity of working, and yet the highestpoint of convenience, nearly to perfection. With full faith that the fuelof the future will be gas, its use is as yet, for many reasons, verylimited; the cost of gas in our smaller cities and towns preventing itsadoption by any but the wealthy, who are really in least need of it. Withthe best gas-stoves, a large part of the disagreeable in cooking is doneaway. No flying ashes, no cinders, no uneven heat, affected by everychange of wind, but a steady flame, regulated to any desired point, and, when used, requiring only a turn of the hand to end the operation. 

Ranges set in a solid brick-work are considered the best form ofcooking-apparatus; but there are some serious objections to their use, the first being the large amount of fuel required, and then the intenseheat thrown out. Even with water in the house, they are not a necessity. Awater-back, fully as effectual as the range water-back, can be set in anygood stove, and connected with a boiler, large or small, according to thesize of the stove; and for such stove, if properly managed, only abouthalf the amount of coal will be needed. 

Fix thoroughly in your minds the directions for making and keeping a fire;for, by doing so, one of the heaviest expenses in housekeeping can belessened fully half. 

First, then, remove the covers, and gather all ashes and cinders from theinside top of the stove, into the grate. Now put on the covers; shut thedoors; close all the draughts, and dump the contents of the grate into thepan below. In some stoves there is an under-grate, to which a handle isattached; and, this grate being shaken, the ashes pass through to theash-pan, and the cinders remain in the grate. In that case, they cansimply be shoveled out into the extra coal-hod, all pieces of clinkerpicked out, and a little water sprinkled on them. If all must be dumpedtogether, a regular ash-sifter will be required, placed over a barrelwhich receives the ashes, while the cinders remain, and are to be treatedas described. 

Into the grate put shavings or paper, or the fat pine known as lightwood. If the latter be used, paper is unnecessary. Lay on some small sticks ofwood, _crossing them_ so that there may be a draught through them; addthen one or two sticks of hard wood, and set the shavings or paper onfire, seeing that every draught is open. As soon as the wood is well onfire, cover with about six inches of coal, the smaller, or nut-coal, beingalways best for stove use. When the coal is burning brightly, shut up allthe dampers save the slide in front of the grate, and you will have a firewhich will last, without poking or touching in any way, four hours. Evenif a little more heat is needed for ovens, and you open the draughts, thisrule still holds good. 

Never, for any reason, allow the coal to come above the edge of thefire-box or lining. If you do, ashes and cinders will fall into theoven-flues, and they will soon be choked up, and require cleaning. Anotherreason also lies in the fact that the stove-covers resting on red-hotcoals soon burn out, and must be renewed; whereas, by carefully avoidingsuch chance, a stove may be used many years without crack or failure ofany sort. 

If fresh heat is required for baking or any purpose after the first fourhours, let the fire burn low, then take off the covers, and with the poker_from the bottom_ rake out all the ashes thoroughly. Then put in two orthree sticks of wood, fill as before with fresh coal, and the fire is goodfor another four hours or more. If only a light fire be required afterdinner for getting tea, rake only slightly; then, fill with _cinders_, andclose all the dampers. Half an hour before using the stove, open them, andthe fire will rekindle enough for any ordinary purpose. As there is greatdifference in the "drawing" of chimneys, the exact time required formaking a fire can not be given. 

In using wood, the same principles apply; but of course the fire must befed much oftener. Grate-fires, as well as those in the ordinary stove, areto be made in much the same way. In a grate, a blower is fastened on untilthe coal is burning well; but, if the fire is undisturbed after itsrenewal, it should burn from six to eight hours without further attention. Then rake out the ashes, add coal, put on the blower a few minutes, andthen proceed as before. If an exceedingly slow fire is desired, cover thetop with cinders, or with ashes moistened with water. In making a grate orstove fire, keep a coarse cloth to lay before it, that ashes may not spoilthe carpet; and wipe about the fire-place with a damp, coarse cloth. Inputting on coal in a sick-room, where noise would disturb the patient, itis a good plan to put it in small paper bags or in pieces of newspaper, inwhich it can be laid on silently. A short table of degrees of heat invarious forms of fuel is given below; the degree required for baking, &c, finding place when we come to general operations in cooking. 

 DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. 

Willow charcoal 600° _Fah. _Ordinary charcoal 700° _Fah. _Hard wood 800° to 900° _Fah. _Coal 1000° _Fah. _

_Lights_ are next in order. Gas hardly requires mention, as the care of itis limited to seeing that it is not turned too high, the flame in suchcase not only vitiating the air of the room with double speed, but leavinga film of smoke upon every thing in it. Kerosene is the oil most largelyused for lamps; and the light from either a student-lamp, or the lamp towhich a "student-burner" has been applied, is the purest and steadiest nowin use. A few simple rules for the care of lamps will prevent, not onlydanger of explosion, but much breakage of chimneys, smoking, &c. 

1. Let the wick always touch the bottom of the lamp, and see that the topis trimmed square and even across, with a pair of scissors kept for thepurpose. 

2. Remember that a lamp, if burned with only a little oil in it, generatesa gas which is liable at any moment to explode. Fill lamps to within halfan inch of the top. If filled brimming full, the outside of the lamp willbe constantly covered with the oil, even when unlighted; while as soon aslighted, heat expanding it, it will run over, and grease every thing nearit. 

3. In lighting a lamp, turn the wick up gradually, that the chimney mayheat slowly: otherwise the glass expands too rapidly, and will crack. 

4. Keep the wick turned high enough to burn freely. Many persons turn downthe wick to save oil, but the room is quickly poisoned by the evil smellfrom the gas thus formed. If necessary, as in a sick-room, to have littlelight, put the lamp in the hall or another room, rather than to turn itdown. 

5. Remember, that, as with the fire, plenty of fresh air is necessary fora free blaze, and that your lamp must be kept as free from dirt as thestove from ashes. In washing the chimneys, use hot suds; and wipe withbits of newspaper, which not only dry the glass better than a cloth, butpolish it also. 

6. In using either student-lamps, whether German or American, or thebeautiful and costly forms known as moderator-lamps, remember, that, tosecure a clear flame, the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick, as well as any surplus which has overflowed from the reservoir, must be_poured out daily_. The neglect of this precaution is the secret of muchof the trouble attending the easy getting out of order of expensive lamps, which will cease to be sources of difficulty if this rule be followedcarefully. 

7. Keep every thing used in such cleaning in a small box; the ordinarystarch-box with sliding lid being excellent for this purpose. Extra wicks, lamp-scissors, rags for wiping off oil, can all find place here. See thatlamp-rags are burned now and then, and fresh ones taken; as the smell ofkerosene is very penetrating, and a room is often made unpleasant by thepresence of dirty lamp-rags. If properly cared for, lamps need be no moreoffensive than gas. 

_Things_ to work with. 

We have settled that our kitchen shall be neat, cheerful, and sunny, withclosets as much as possible near enough together to prevent extra stepsbeing taken. If the servant is sufficiently well-trained to respect thefittings of a well-appointed kitchen, and to take pleasure in keeping themin order, the whole apparatus can be arranged in the kitchen-closets. If, however, there is any doubt on this point, it will be far better to haveyour own special table, and shelf or so above it, where the utensilsrequired for your own personal use in delicate cooking can be arranged. 

In any kitchen not less than two tables are required: one for all roughwork, --preparing meat, vegetables, &c, and dishing up meals; the other forgeneral convenience. The first must stand as near the sink and fire aspossible; and close to it, on a dresser, which it is well to have justabove the table and within reach of the hand, should be all the essentialsfor convenient work, namely:--

A meat-block or board;

A small meat-saw;

A small cleaver and meat-knife;

Spoons, skewers, vegetable-cutters, and any other small conveniences usedat this table, such as potato-slicer, larding and trussing needles, &c. ;

A chopping-knife and wooden tray or bowl;

Rolling-pin, and bread and pastry board;

Narrow-bladed, very sharp knife for paring, the French cook-knife beingthe best ever invented for this purpose. 

A deep drawer in the table for holding coarse towels and aprons, balls oftwine of two sizes, squares of cloth used in boiling delicate fish ormeats, &c. , will be found almost essential. Basting-spoons and many smallarticles can hang on small hooks or nails, and are more easily picked upthan if one must feel over a shelf for them. These will be egg-beaters, graters, ladle, &c. The same dresser, or a space over the sink, must holdwashing-pans for meat and vegetables, dish-pans, tin measures from a gillup to one quart, saucepans, milk-boiler, &c. Below the sink, the closetfor iron-ware can be placed, or, if preferred, be between sink and stove. A list in detail of every article required for a comfortably-fitted-upkitchen is given at the end of the book. House-furnishing stores furnishelaborate and confusing ones. The present list is simply what is neededfor the most efficient work. Of course, as you experiment and advance, itmay be enlarged; but the simple outfit can be made to produce all theresults likely to be needed, and many complicated patent arrangements arehindrances, rather than helps. 

The _Iron-ware_ closet must hold at least two iron pots, frying-pans largeand small, and a Scotch kettle with frying-basket for oysters, fish-balls, &c. , --this kettle being a broad shallow one four or five inches deep. Roasting-pans, commonly called dripping-pans, are best of Russia iron. 

_Tin-ware_ must include colander, gravy and jelly strainers, andvegetable-sifter or _purée_-sieve; six tin pie-plates, and from four tosix jelly-cake tins with straight edges; and at least one porcelain-linedkettle, holding not less than four quarts, while a three-gallon one forpreserving and canning is also desirable;

Muffin rings or pans; "gem-pans;"

Four bread-tins, of best tin (or, better still, Russia iron), the bestsize for which is ten inches long by four wide and four deep; the loafbaked in such pan requiring less time, and giving a slice of just theright shape and size;

Cake-tins of various shapes as desired, a set of small tins beingdesirable for little cakes. 

A small sifter in basket shape will be found good for cake-making, and alarger one for bread; and spices can be most conveniently kept in aspice-caster, which is a stand holding six or eight small labeledcanisters. Near it can also be small tin boxes or glass cans for driedsweet herbs, the salt-box, &c. 

The _Crockery_ required will be: at least two large mixing-bowls, holdingnot less than eight or ten quarts, and intended for bread, cake, and manyother purposes; a bowl with lip to pour from, and also a smaller-sized oneholding about two quarts; half a dozen quart and pint bowls;

Half a dozen one-and two-quart round or oval pudding-dishes or nappies;

Several deep plates for use in putting away cold food;

Blancmange-molds, three sizes;

One large pitcher, also three-pint and quart sizes;

Yeast-jar, or, what is better, two or three Mason's glass cans, kept foryeast. 

This list does not include any crockery for setting a servant's table;that being governed by the number kept, and other considerations. Suchdishes should be of heavier ware than your own, as they are likely toreceive rougher handling; but there should be a full supply as one meansof teaching neatness. 

_Wooden-ware_ is essential in the shape of a nest of boxes for rice, tapioca, &c. ; and wooden pails for sugar, Graham-flour, &c. ; while youwill gradually accumulate many conveniences in the way of jars, stone potsfor pickling, demijohns, &c. , which give the store-room, at last, theexpression dear to all thrifty housekeepers. 

Scrubbing and water pails, scrubbing and blacking brushes, soap-dishes, sand-box, knife-board, and necessities in cleaning, must all find place, and, having found it, keep it to the end; absolute order and system beingthe first condition of comfortable housekeeping. 

CHAPTER VI. 

WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 

Why Monday should be fixed upon as washing-day, is often questioned; but, like many other apparently arbitrary arrangements, its foundation is incommon-sense. Tuesday has its advantages also, soon to be mentioned; butto any later period than Tuesday there are serious objections. Allclothing is naturally changed on Sunday; and, if washed before dirt hashad time to harden in the fiber of the cloth, the operation is mucheasier. The German custom, happily passing away, of washing only annuallyor semi-annually, is both disgusting, and destructive to health andclothes; the air of whatever room such accumulations are stored in beingpoisoned, while the clothes themselves are rubbed to pieces in theendeavor to get out the long-seated dirt. 

A weekly wash being the necessity if perfect cleanliness exists, thesimplest and best method of thoroughly accomplishing it comes up forquestion. While few women are obliged to use their own hands in suchdirections, plenty of needy and unskilled workwomen who can earn a livingin no other way being ready to relieve us, it is yet quite as necessary toknow every detail, in order that the best work may be required, and thatwhere there is ignorance of methods in such work they may be taught. 

The advantages of washing on Tuesday are, that it allows Monday forsetting in order after the necessary rest of Sunday, gives opportunity tocollect and put in soak all the soiled clothing, and so does away with theobjection felt by many good people to performing this operation Sundaynight. 

To avoid such sin, bed-clothing is often changed on Saturday; but it seemsonly part of the freshness and sweetness which ought always to make Sundaythe white-day of the week, that such change should be made on thatmorning, while the few minutes required for sorting the clothes, andputting them in water, are quite as legitimate as any needed operation. 

If Monday be the day, then, Saturday night may be chosen for filling thetubs, supposing the kitchen to be unfurnished with stationary tubs. Sundaynight enough hot water can be added to make the whole just warm--not hot. Now put in one tub all fine things, --collars and cuffs, shirts and fineunderwear. Bed-linen may be added, or soaked in a separate tub; buttable-linen must of course be kept apart. Last, let the coarsest and mostsoiled articles have another. Do not add soap, as if there is any stain itis likely to set it. If the water is hard, a little borax may be added. And see that the clothes are pressed down, and well covered with water. 

Monday morning, and the earlier the better (the morning sun drying andsweetening clothes better than the later), have the boiler full of cleanwarm suds. Soft soap may be used, or a bar of hard dissolved in hot water, and used like soft soap. All the water in which the clothes have soakedshould be drained off, and the hot suds poured on. Begin with the cleanestarticles, which when washed carefully are wrung out, and put in a tub ofwarm water. Rinse out from this; rub soap on all the parts which are mostsoiled, these parts being bands and sleeves, and put them in the boilerwith cold water enough to cover them. To boil up once will be sufficientfor fine clothes. Then take them out into a tub of clean cold water; rinsethem in this, and then in a tub of water made very slightly blue with theindigo-bag or liquid indigo. From this water they must be wrung out verydry, and hung out, always out of doors if possible. A wringer is muchbetter than wringing by hand, as the latter is more unequal, and alsooften twists off buttons. The lines must be perfectly clean. Agalvanized-iron wire is best of all; as it never rusts, and needs only tobe wiped off each week. If rope is used, never leave it exposed toweather, but bring it in after each washing. A dirty, weather-stained linewill often ruin a nice garment. Leave clothes on the line till perfectlydry. If any fruit-stains are on napkins or table-cloths, lay the stainedpart over a bowl, and pour on boiling water till they disappear. Ink canbe taken out if the spot is washed while fresh, in cold water, or milk andwater; and a little salt will help in taking out wine-stains. Machine-oilmust have a little lard or butter rubbed on the spot, which is then to bewashed in warm suds. Never rub soap directly on any stain, as it sets it. For iron-rust, spread the garment in the sun, and cover the spot withsalt; then squeeze on lemon-juice enough to wet it. This is much safer andquite as sure as the acids sold for this purpose. In bright sunshine thespot will disappear in a few hours. 

Remember that long boiling does not improve clothes. If washed clean, simply scalding is all that is required. 

If delicate curtains, either lace or muslin, are to be washed, allow atablespoonful of powdered borax to two gallons of warm water, and soapenough to make a strong suds. Soak the curtains in this all night. In themorning add more warm water, and press every part between the hands, without rubbing. Put them in fresh suds, and, if the water still looksdark after another washing, take still another. Boil and rinse as indirections given for other clothes. Starch with very thick hot starch, anddry, not by hanging out, and then ironing, but by putting a light commonmattress in the sun, and pinning the curtain upon it, stretching carefullyas you pin. One mattress holds two, which will dry in an hour or two. Ifthere is no sun, lay a sheet on the floor of an unused room, and pin thecurtains down upon it. 

In washing flannels, remember that it must be done in a sunny day, thatthey may dry as rapidly as possible. Put them into hot suds. Do not rubthem on a washing-board, as this is one means of fulling and ruining them. Press and rub them in the hands, changing them soon to fresh hot suds. Rinse in a pail of clear hot water; wring very dry; shake, and hang atonce in the sun. Flannels thus treated, no matter how delicate, retaintheir softness and smoothness, and do not shrink. 

Starch is the next consideration, and is made in two ways, --either raw orboiled. Boiled starch is made by adding cold water to raw starch in theproportion of one cup of water to three-quarters of a cup of starch, andthen pouring on boiling water till it has thickened to a smooth mass, constantly stirring as you pour. A bit of butter is added by manyexcellent laundresses, the bit not to be larger than a filbert. Any thingstarched with boiled starch must be dried and sprinkled before ironing, while with raw starch this is not necessary. 

To make raw starch, allow four even tablespoonfuls to a half-pint of coldwater. Dip collars, cuffs, and shirt-bosoms, or any thing which must bevery stiff, into this starch, being careful to have them dry. When wet, clap them well between the hands, as this distributes the starch evenlyamong the fibers of the cloth. The same rule must be followed in usingboiled starch. Roll the articles in a damp cloth, as this makes them ironmore smoothly; and in an hour they will be ready for the iron. In usingboiled starch, after the articles have been dried, and then dampened bysprinkling water lightly upon them, either by the hand, or by shaking overthem a small whisk-broom which is dipped as needed in water, it is betterto let them lie ten or twelve hours. 

All clothes require this folding and dampening. Sheets and table-clothsshould be held by two persons, shaken and "snapped, " and then foldedcarefully, stretching the edges if necessary. 

Colored clothing must be rinsed before starching, and the starch should bethin and cool. 

For ironing neatly and well, there will be required, half a dozenflat-irons, steel bottoms preferred; a skirt-board and bosom-board, bothcovered, first with old blanket or carpet, then with thick strongcotton-cloth, and over this a cover of lighter cloth, sewed on so that itmay be removed as often as may be necessary to wash it. If a bag the sizeof each is made, and they are hung up in this as soon as used, suchwashing need very seldom be. Having these, many dispense withironing-sheet and blanket; but it is better to use a table for all largearticles, and on this the ironing-sheet can be pinned, or tied by tapes, or strips of cloth, sewed to each corner. A stand on which to set theirons, a paper and coarse cloth to rub them off on, and a bit of yellowwax tied in a cloth, and used to remove any roughness from the iron, arethe requirements of the ironing-table. 

Once a month, while the irons are still slightly warm, wash them in warmwater in which a little lard has been melted. Never let them stand dayafter day on the stove, and never throw cold water on them, as it makesthem very rough. 

If the starch clings to the irons, put a little Bristol-brick on a board, and rub them up and down till free. If they are too hot for use, put in acurrent of air a few moments; and in all cases try them on a piece ofpaper or cloth before putting them on a garment. If through carelessnessor accident an article is scorched, lay it in the hottest sunshine to befound. If the fiber is not burned, this will often take the spot entirelyout. 

Let the ironed clothes hang in the air for at least twenty-four hoursafter ironing. Unaired sheets have often brought on fatal sickness. Examine all clothes sent up from the wash. If the laundress is sure thisinspection will take place, it is a constant spur to working in the bestway, and a word of praise for good points is always a stimulus. Mendingshould be done as the clothes are looked over, before putting away. Placethe sheets from each wash at the bottom of the pile, that the same onesmay not be used over and over, but all come in rotation; and the same withtable-linen. If the table-cloth in use is folded carefully in the creases, and kept under a heavy piece of plank, it will retain a fresh look tillsoiled. Special hints as to washing blankets and dress-materials will begiven in the latter part of the book. 

However carefully and neatly a house may be kept, it requires a specialputting in order, known as _House-cleaning_, at least once a year. Springand fall are both devoted to it in New England; and, if the matter beconducted quietly, there are many advantages in the double cleaning. In awarmer climate, where insect-life is more troublesome and the reign offlies lasts longer, two cleanings are rather a necessity. As generallymanaged, they are a terror to every one, and above all to gentlemen, whoresent it from beginning to end. No wonder, if at the first onslaught allhome comfort ends, and regular meals become irregular lunches, and a quietnight's rest something sought but not found. 

A few simple rules govern here, and will rob the ordeal of half itsterrors. 

If coal or wood are to be laid in for the year's supply, let it be donebefore cleaning begins, as much dust is spread through the house in suchwork. 

Heavy carpets do not require taking up every year; once in two, or eventhree, being sufficient unless they are in constant use. Take out thetacks, however, each year; fold back the carpet half a yard or so; havethe floor washed with a strong suds in which borax has been dissolved, --atablespoonful to a pail of water; then dust black pepper along the edges, and retack the carpet. By this means moths are kept away; and, as theirfavorite place is in corners and folds, this laying back enables one tosearch out and destroy them. 

Sapolio is better than sand for scouring paint, and in all cases a littleborax in the water makes such work easier. 

Closets should be put in order first; all winter clothing packed intrunks, or put in bags made from several thicknesses of newspaper, printers' ink being one of the most effectual protections against moths. Gum-camphor is also excellent; and, if you have no camphor-wood chest orcloset, a pound of the gum, sewed into little bags, will last for years. In putting away clothing, blankets, &c. , look all over, and brush andshake with the utmost care before folding, in order to get rid of anypossible moth-eggs. 

If matting is used, wipe it with borax-water, using a cloth wet enough todampen but _not_ wet. 

Window-glass thoroughly washed can be dried and polished with oldnewspapers; or whiting can be used, and rubbed off with a woolen cloth. 

Hard-wood furniture, black walnut, or other varieties, requires oilinglightly with boiled linseed oil, and rubbing dry with a woolen cloth; andvarnished furniture, mahogany or rosewood, if kept carefully dusted, requires only an occasional rubbing with chamois-skin or thick flannel toretain its polish perfectly. Soap should never be used on varnish of anysort. 

Ingrain and other carpets, after shaking, are brightened in color bysprinkling a pound or two of salt over the surface, and sweepingcarefully; and it is also useful to occasionally wipe off a carpet withborax-water, using a thick flannel, and taking care not to wet, but onlydampen the carpet. Mirrors can be cleaned with whiting. Never scruboil-pictures: simply wipe with a damp cloth, and, if picture-cord is used, wipe it off to secure against moths. 

It is impossible to cover the whole ground of cleaning in this chapter. Experience is the best teacher. Only remember that a household earthquakeis not necessary, and that the whole work can be done so gradually, quietly, and systematically, that only the workers need know much aboutit. The sense of purity transfused through the air and breathing fromevery nook and corner should be the only indication that upheaval hasexisted. The best work is always in silence. 

CHAPTER VII. 

THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 

"The lamp of life" is a very old metaphor for the mysterious principlevitalizing nerve and muscle; but no comparison could be so apt. Thefull-grown adult takes in each day, through lungs and mouth, about eightand a half pounds of dry food, water, and the air necessary for breathingpurposes. Through the pores of the skin, the lungs, kidneys, and lowerintestines, there is a corresponding waste; and both supply and wasteamount in a year to one and a half tons, or three thousand pounds. 

The steadiness and clear shining of the flame of a lamp depend uponquality, as well as amount of the oil supplied, and, too, the texture ofthe wick; and so all human life and work are equally made or marred by thefood which sustains life, as well as the nature of the constitutionreceiving that food. 

Before the nature and quality of food can be considered, we must know theconstituents of the body to be fed, and something of the process throughwhich digestion and nutrition are accomplished. 

I shall take for granted that you have a fairly plain idea of the stomachand its dependences. Physiologies can always be had, and for minutedetails they must be referred to. Bear in mind one or two main points:that all food passes from the mouth to the stomach, an irregularly-shapedpouch or bag with an opening into the duodenum, and from thence into thelarger intestine. From the mouth to the end of this intestine, the wholemay be called the alimentary canal; a tube of varying size and somethirty-six feet in length. The mouth must be considered part of it, as itis in the mouth that digestion actually begins; all starchy foodsdepending upon the action of the saliva for genuine digestion, salivahaving some strange power by which starch is converted into sugar. Swallowed whole, or placed directly in the stomach, such food passesthrough the body unchanged. Each division of the alimentary canal has itsown distinct digestive juice, and I give them in the order in which theyoccur. 

First, The saliva; secreted from the glands of the mouth:--alkaline, glairy, adhesive. 

Second, The gastric juice; secreted in the inner or third lining of thestomach, --an acid, and powerful enough to dissolve all the fiber andalbumen of flesh food. 

Third, The pancreatic juice; secreted by the pancreas, which you know inanimals as sweetbreads. This juice has a peculiar influence upon fats, which remain unchanged by saliva and gastric juice; and not untildissolved by pancreatic juice, and made into what chemists call an_emulsion_, can they be absorbed into the system. 

Fourth, The bile; which no physiologist as yet thoroughly understands. Weknow its action, but hardly _why_ it acts. It is a necessity, however; forif by disease the supply be cut off, an animal emaciates and soon dies. 

Fifth, The intestinal juice; which has some properties like saliva, and isthe last product of the digestive forces. 

A meal, then, in its passage downward is first diluted and increased inbulk by a watery fluid which prepares all the starchy portion forabsorption. Then comes a still more profuse fluid, dissolving all themeaty part. Then the fat is attended to by the stream of pancreatic juice, and at the same time the bile pours upon it, doing its own work in its ownmysterious way; and last of all, lest any process should have beenimperfect, the long canal sends out a juice having some of the propertiesof all. 

Thus each day's requirements call for

 PINTS. 

Of saliva 3-3/4 gastric juice 12 bile 3-3/4 pancreatic juice 1-1/2 intestinal juice 1/2 ------- 21-1/2

Do not fancy this is all wasted or lost. Very far from it: for the wholeprocess seems to be a second circulation, as it were; and, while the bloodis moving in its wonderful passage through veins and arteries, anothercirculation as wonderful, an endless current going its unceasing round solong as life lasts, is also taking place. But without food the first wouldbecome impossible; and the quality of food, and its proper digestion, meangood or bad blood as the case may be. We must follow our mouthful of food, and see how this action takes place. 

When the different juices have all done their work, the _chyme_, which isfood as it passes from the stomach into the duodenum or passage to thelower stomach or bowels, becomes a milky substance called _chyle_, whichmoves slowly, pushed by numberless muscles along the bowel, which squeezemuch of it into little glands at the back of the bowels. These are calledthe mesenteric glands; and, as each one receives its portion of chyle, awonderful thing happens. About half of it is changed into small roundbodies called corpuscles, and they float with the rest of the milky fluidthrough delicate pipes which take it to a sort of bag just in front of thespine. To this bag is fastened another pipe or tube--the thoracicduct--which follows the line of the spine; and up this tube the smallbodies travel till they come to the neck and a spot where two veins meet. A door in one opens, and the transformation is complete. The small bodiesare raw food no more, but blood, traveling fast to where it may bepurified, and begin its endless round in the best condition. For, as youknow, venous blood is still impure and dirty blood. Before it can bereally alive it must pass through the veins to the right side of theheart, flow through into the upper chamber, then through another door orvalve into the lower, where it is pumped out into the lungs. If theselungs are, as they should be, full of pure air, each corpuscle is socharged with oxygen, that the last speck of impurity is burned up, and itgoes dancing and bounding on its way. That is what health means: perfectfood made into perfect blood, and giving that sense of strength andexhilaration that we none of us know half as much about as we should. Weget it sometimes on mountain-tops in clear autumn days when the air islike wine; but God meant it to be our daily portion, and this verydespised knowledge of cookery is to bring it about. If a lung isimperfect, supplied only with foul air as among the very poor, or diseasedas in consumption, food does not nourish, and you now know why. We havefound that the purest air and the purest water contain the largestproportion of oxygen; and it is this that vitalizes both food and, throughfood, the blood. 

To nourish this body, then, demands many elements; and to study these hasbeen the joint work of chemists and physiologists, till at last everyconstituent of the body is known and classified. Many as theseconstituents are, they are all resolved into the simple elements, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon, while a little sulphur, a littlephosphorus, lime, chlorine, sodium, &c. , are added. 

FLESH and BLOOD are composed of water, fat, fibrine, albumen, gelatine, and the compounds of lime, phosphorus, soda, potash, magnesia, iron, &c. 

BONE contains cartilage, gelatine, fat, and the salts of lime, magnesia, soda, &c. , in combination with phosphoric and other acids. 

CARTILAGE consists of chondrine, a substance somewhat like gelatine, andcontains also the salts of sulphur, lime, soda, potash, phosphorus, magnesia, and iron. 

BILE is made up of water, fat, resin, sugar, cholesterine, some fattyacids, and the salts of potash, iron, and soda. 

THE BRAIN is made up of water, albumen, fat, phosphoric acid, osmazone, and salts. 

THE LIVER unites water, fat, and albumen, with phosphoric and other acids, and lime, iron, soda, and potash. 

THE LUNGS are formed of two substances: one like gelatine; another of thenature of caseine and albumen, fibrine, cholesterine, iron, water, soda, and various fatty and organic acids. 

How these varied elements are held together, even science with all itsdeep searchings has never told. No man, by whatsoever combination ofelements, has ever made a living plant, much less a living animal. Nobetter comparison has ever been given than that of Youmans, who makes atable of the analogies between the human body and the steam-engine, whichI give as it stands. 

ANALOGIES OF THE STEAM-ENGINE AND THE LIVING BODY. 

_The Steam Engine in Action takes_:

1. Fuel: coal and wood, both combustible. 

2. Water for evaporation. 

3. Air for combustion. 

_And Produces_:

4. A steady boiling heat of 212° by quick combustion. 

5. Smoke loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. 

6. Incombustible ashes. 

7. Motive force of simple alternate push and pull in the piston, which, acting through wheels, bands, and levers, does work of endless variety. 

8. A deficiency of fuel, water, or air, disturbs, then stops the motion. 

_The Animal Body in Life takes_:

1. Food: vegetables and flesh, both combustible. 

2. Water for circulation. 

3. Air for respiration. 

_And Produces_:

4. A steady animal heat, by slow combustion, of 98°. 

5. Expired breath loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. 

6. Incombustible animal refuse. 

7. Motive force of simple alternate contraction and relaxation in themuscles, which, acting through joints, tendons, and levers, does work ofendless variety. 

8. A deficiency of food, drink, or air, first disturbs, then stops themotion and the life. 

Carrying out this analogy, you will at once see why a person working hardwith either body or mind requires more food than the one who does butlittle. The food taken into the human body can never be a simple element. We do not feed on plain, undiluted oxygen or nitrogen; and, while thecomposition of the human body includes really sixteen elements in all, oxygen is the only one used in its natural state. I give first theelements as they exist in a body weighing about one hundred and fifty-fourpounds, this being the average weight of a full-grown man; and add atable, compiled from different sources, of the composition of the body asmade up from these elements. Dry as such details may seem, they are theonly key to a full understanding of the body, and the laws of the body, sofar as the food-supply is concerned; though you will quickly find that theday's food means the day's thought and work, well or ill, and that in yourhands is put a power mightier than you know, --the power to build up body, and through body the soul, into a strong and beautiful manhood andwomanhood. 

ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY. 

---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. ---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|-----1. Oxygen, a gas, and supporter of combustion, | | | weighs | 103 | 2 | 335 | | |2. Carbon, a solid; found most nearly pure in charcoal. | | | Carbon in the body combines with other | | | elements to produce carbonic-acid gas, and by | | | its burning sets heat free. Its weight is | 18 | 11 | 150 | | |3. Hydrogen, a gas, is a part of all bone, blood, and | | | muscle, and weighs | 4 | 14 | 0 | | |4. Nitrogen, a gas, is also part of all muscle, blood, | | | and bone; weighing | 4 | 14 | 0 | | |5. Phosphorus, a solid, found in brain and bones, | | | weighs | 1 | 12 | 25 | | |6. Sulphur, a solid, found in all parts of the body, | | | weighs | 0 | 8 | 0 | | |7. Chlorine, a gas, found in all parts of the body, | | | weighs | 0 | 4 | 150 | | |8. Fluorine, supposed to be a gas, is found with calcium | | | in teeth and bones, and weighs | 0 | 3 | 300 | | |9. Silicon, a solid, found united with oxygen in the | | | hair, skin, bile, bones, blood, and saliva, weighs | 0 | 0 | 14 | | |10. Magnesium, a metal found in union with phosphoric | | | acid in the bones | 0 | 2 | 250 | | |11. Potassium, a metal, the basis of potash, is found | | | as phosphate and chloride; weighs | 0 | 3 | 340 | | |12. Sodium, a metal, basis of soda; weighs | 0 | 3 | 217 | | |13. Calcium, a metal, basis of lime, found chiefly in | | | bones and teeth; weighs | 3 | 13 | 190 | | |14. Iron, a metal essential in the coloring of the | | | blood, and found everywhere in the body; | | | weighs | 0 | 0 | 65 | | |15. Manganese. } Faint traces of both these metals | | | } | | |16. Copper metals. } are found in brain and blood, | | | but in too minute portions to be given by | | | weight. | | | |------|-----|----- Total | 154 | 0 | 0

The second table gives the combinations of these elements; and, though aknowledge of such combinations is not as absolutely essential as thefirst, we still can not well dispense with it. The same weight--onehundred and fifty-four pounds--is taken as the standard. 

COMPOSITION OF THE BODY. 

---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. ---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|-----1. Water, which is found in every part of the body, | | | and amounts to | 109 | 0 | 0 | | |2. Fibrine, and like substances, found in the blood, | | | and forming the chief solid materials of the | | | flesh | 15 | 10 | 0 | | |3. Phosphate of lime, chiefly in bones and teeth, but | | | in all liquids and tissues | 8 | 12 | 0

4. Fat, a mixture of three chemical compounds, | | | and distributed all through the body | 4 | 8 | 0 | | |5. Osseine, the organic framework of bones; boiled, | | | gives gelatine. Weight | 4 | 7 | 350 | | |6. Keratine, a nitrogenous substance, forming the | | | greater part of hair, nails, and skin. Weighs | 4 | 2 | 0 | | |7. Cartilagine resembles the osseine of bone, and is a | | | nitrogenous substance, the chief constituent of | | | cartilage, weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 | | |8. Hæmoglobine gives the red color to blood, and is | | | a nitrogenous substance containing iron, and | | | weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 | | |9. Albumen is a soluble nitrogenous substance, | | | found in the blood, chyle, lymph, and muscle, | | | and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 | | |10. Carbonate of lime is found in the bones chiefly, | | | and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 | | |11. Hephalin is found in nerves and brain, with | | | cerebrine and other compounds | 0 | 13 | 0 | | |12. Fluoride of calcium is found in teeth and bones, | | | and weighs | 0 | 7 | 175 | | |13. Phosphate of magnesia is also in teeth and bones, | | | and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 | | |14. Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is found in | | | all parts of the body, and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 | | |15. Cholesterine, glycogen, and inosite are compounds | | | containing hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon, | | | found in muscle, liver, and brain, and | | | weighing | 0 | 3 | 0 | | |16. Sulphate phosphate, and salts of sodium, found | | | in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 2 | 107 | | |17. Sulphate, phosphate, and chloride of potassium, | | | are also in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 1 | 300 | | |18. Silica, found in hair, skin, and bone | 0 | 0 | 30 | | | | --- | --- | --- | 154 | 0 | 0

With this basis, to give us some understanding of the complicated anddelicate machinery with which we must work, the question arises, what foodcontains all these constituents, and what its amount and character mustbe. The answer to this question will help us to form an intelligent planfor providing a family with the right nutrition. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 

We have found, that, in analyzing the constituents of the body, water isthe largest part; and turning to food, whether animal or vegetable, thesame fact holds good. It forms the larger part of all the drinks, offruits, of succulent vegetables, eggs, fish, cheese, the cereals, and evenof fats. 

Fat is found in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, cheese, fish, meat, the cereals, leguminous vegetables, --such as pease and beans, --nuts, cocoa, and chocolate. 

Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is found in milk and cereals. 

Starch, which under the action of the saliva changes into glucose orgrape-sugar, is present in vegetables and cereals. 

Flesh foods, called as often nitrogenous foods, from containing so large aproportion of nitrogen, are made up of fibrine, albumen, caseine, gelatine, and gluten; the first four elements being present in flesh, thelatter in vegetables. 

Salts of various forms exist in both animal and vegetable food. In meat, fish, and potatoes are found phosphorus, lime, and magnesia. Common saltis largely made up of soda, but is found with potash in many vegetables. This last element is also in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, and fruits. Iron abounds in flesh and vegetables; and sulphur enters into albumen, caseine, and fibrine. 

The simplest division of food is into _flesh-formers_ and_heat-producers_; the former being as often called nitrogenous food, oralbumenoids; the latter, heat-giving or carbonaceous foods. Much minuterdivisions could be made, but these two cover the ground sufficiently well. For a healthy body both are necessary, but climate and constitution willalways make a difference in the amounts required. Thus, in a keen andlong-continued winter, the most condensed forms of carbonaceous foods willbe needed; while in summer a small portion of nitrogenous food to nourishmuscle, and a large amount of cooling fruits and vegetables, areindicated; both of these, though more or less carbonaceous in character, containing so much water as to neutralize any heat-producing effects. 

Muscle being the first consideration in building up a strong body, we needfirst to find out the values of different foods as flesh-formers, healthyflesh being muscle in its most perfect condition. Flesh and fat are neverto be confounded, fat being really a species of disease, --the overloadingof muscle and tissue with what has no rightful place there. There shouldbe only enough fat to round over the muscle, but never hide its play. Thetable given is the one in use in the food-gallery of the South KensingtonMuseum, and includes not only the nutritive value, but the cost also, ofeach article; taking beef as the standard with which other animal foodsare to be compared, beef being the best-known of all meats. Amongvegetables, lentils really contain most nourishment; but wheat is chosenas being much more familiar, lentils being very little used in thiscountry save by the German part of the population, and having so strongand peculiar a flavor that we are never likely to largely adopt their use. 

About an equal amount of nourishment is found in the varied amountsmentioned in the table which follows:--

TABLE. 

 Cost aboutEight ounces of lean beef (half-pound) 6 cts. Ten ounces of dried lentils 7 cts. Eleven ounces of pease or beans 5 cts. Twelve ounces of cocoa-nibs 20 cts. Fourteen ounces of tea 40 cts. Fifteen ounces of oatmeal 5 cts. One pound and one ounce of wheaten flour 4 cts. One pound and one ounce of coffee 30 cts. One pound and two ounces of rye-flour 5 cts. One pound and three ounces of barley 5 cts. One pound and five ounces Indian meal 5 cts. One pound and thirteen ounces of buckwheat-flour 10 cts. Two pounds of wheaten bread 10 cts. Two pounds and six ounces of rice 20 cts. Five pounds and three ounces of cabbage 10 cts. Five pounds and three ounces of onions 15 cts. Eight pounds and fifteen ounces of turnips 9 cts. Ten pounds and seven ounces of potatoes 10 cts. Fifteen pounds and ten ounces of carrots 15 cts. 

Now, because tea, coffee, and cocoa approach so nearly in value asnutriment to beef and lentils, we must not be misled. Fourteen ounces oftea are equivalent to half a pound of meat; but a repast of dry tea notbeing very usual, in fact, being out of the question altogether, itbecomes plain, that the principal value of these foods, used as we mustuse them, in very small quantities, is in the warmth and comfort theygive. Also, these weights (except the bread) are of uncooked food. Eightounces of meat would, if boiled or roasted, dwindle to five or six, whilethe ten ounces of lentils or beans would swell to twice the capacity ofany ordinary stomach. So, ten pounds of potatoes are required to give youthe actual benefit contained in the few ounces of meat; and only theIrishman fresh from his native cabin can calmly consider a meal of thatmagnitude, while, as to carrots, neither Irishman nor German, nor the mostdetermined and enterprising American, could for a moment face thespectacle of fifteen pounds served up for his noonday meal. 

The inference is plain. Union is strength, here as elsewhere; and theperfect meal must include as many of these elements as will make it nottoo bulky, yet borrowing flavor and substance wherever necessary. 

As a rule, the food best adapted to climate and constitution seems to havebeen instinctively decided upon by many nations; and a study of nationaldishes, and their adaptation to national needs, is curious andinteresting. The Esquimaux or Greenlander finds his most desirable meal ina lump of raw blubber, the most condensed form of carbonaceous food beingrequired to preserve life. It is not a perverted taste, but the highestinstinct; for in that cruel cold the body must furnish the food on whichthe keen air draws, and the lamp of life there has a very literal supply. 

Take now the other extreme of temperature, --the East Indies, China, Africa, and part even of the West Indies and America, --and you find ricethe universal food. There is very little call, as you may judge, forheat-producers, but rather for flesh-formers; and starch and sugar bothfulfill this end, the rice being chiefly starch, which turns into sugarunder the action of the saliva. Add a little melted butter, the EastIndian _ghee_, or olive-oil used in the West Indies instead, and we haveall the elements necessary for life under those conditions. 

A few degrees northward, and the same rice is mingled with bits of fishor meat, as in the Turkish _pilau_, a dish of rice to which mutton orpoultry is added. 

The wandering Arab finds in his few dates, and handful of parched wheat ormaize, the sugar and starch holding all the heat required, while hisdraught of mare's or camel's milk, and his occasional _pilau_ of mutton, give him the various elements which seem sufficient to make him the modelof endurance, blitheness, and muscular power. So the Turkishburden-bearers who pick up a two-hundred-pound bag of coffee as one picksup a pebble, use much the same diet, though adding melons and cucumbers, which are eaten as we eat apples. 

The noticeable point in the Italian dietary is the universal and profuseuse of macaroni. Chestnuts and Indian corn, the meal of which is made intoa dish called _polenta_, something like our mush, are also used, butmacaroni is found at every table, noble or peasant's. No form of wheatpresents such condensed nourishment, and it deserves larger space on ourown bills of fare than we have ever given it. 

In Spain we find the _olla podrida_, a dish containing, as chiefingredient, the _garbanzo_ or field-pea: it is a rich stew, of fowls orbacon, red peppers, and pease. Red pepper enters into most of the dishesin torrid climates, and there is a good and sufficient reason for thisapparent mistake. Intense and long-continued heat weakens the action ofthe liver, and thus lessens the supply of bile; and red pepper has thepower of stimulating the liver, and so assisting digestion. East Indiancurries, and the Mexican and Spanish _olla_, are therefore founded oncommon-sense. 

In France the _pot-au-feu_, or soup-pot, simmers in every peasant ormiddle-class home, and is not to be despised even in richer ones. In thisdish, a small portion of meat is cooked so judiciously as to flavor alarge mass of vegetables and broth; and this, served with salad and oiland bread, forms a meal which can hardly be surpassed in its power ofmaking the most of every constituent offered. In Germany soups are anational dish also; but their extreme fondness for pork, especially rawham and sausage, is the source of many diseases. Sweden, Norway, Russia, --all the far northern countries, --tend more and more to the oilydiet of the Esquimaux, fish being a large part of it. There is no room forother illustrations; but, as you learn the properties of food, you will beable to read national dietaries, from the Jewish down, with a newunderstanding of what power food had and has in forming nationalpeculiarities. 

It is settled, then, that to renew our muscles which are constantlywearing out, we must eat the food containing the same constituents; andthese we find in meat, milk, eggs, and the entire gluten of grains, &c, asin wheaten-grits or oatmeal. 

Fat and heat must come to us from the starches and sugars, in sufficientsupply to "put a layer of wadding between muscles and skin, fill out thewrinkles, and keep one warm. " To find out the proportion needed for one'sown individual constitution, is the first work for all of us. The laborerrequires one thing, the growing child another, the man or woman whoselabor is purely intellectual another; and to understand how best to meetthese needs, demands a knowledge to which most of us have beenindifferent. If there is excess or lack of any necessary element, thatexcess or lack means disease, and for such disease we are whollyresponsible. Food is not the only and the universal elixir of life; forweak or poor blood is often an inheritance, and comes to one tainted byfamily diseases, or by defects in air or climate in general. But, evenwhen outward conditions are most disastrous, perfect food has power toavert or alter their effects; and the child who begins life burdened withscrofulous or other diseases, and grows to a pale, weak, unwholesomeyouth, and either a swift passing into the next world, or a life here ofhopeless invalidism, can, nine times out of ten, have this course ofthings stopped by scientific understanding of what foods are necessary forsuch conditions. 

I propose to take the life of one who from babyhood up has been fed on thebest food, perfectly prepared, and to give the tables of such food fordifferent periods in that life, allowing only such digression as will showthe effects of an opposite course of treatment; thus showing the relationsof food to health, --a more necessary and vital form of knowledge than anyother that the world owns. 

CHAPTER IX. 

THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 

We begin, then, with a typical baby, born of civilized parents, and livingin the midst of the best civilization to be had. Savage or even partiallycivilized life could never furnish the type we desire. It is true, as wehave seen, that natural laws, so deeply planted that they have becomeinstincts, have given to many wild nations a dietary meeting theirabsolute needs; but only civilization can find the key to these modes, andmake past experience pay tribute to present knowledge. We do not want anIndian baby, bound and swathed like a little mummy, hanging from the poleof a wigwam, placidly sucking a fish's tail, or a bone of boiled dog; noran Esquimaux baby, with its strip of blubber; nor the Hottentot, with itsrope of jerked beef; nor the South-sea Islander, with its half-cocoanut. Nor will we admit the average Irish baby, among the laboring classes inboth city and country, brought to the table at three months old to swallowits portion of coffee or tea; nor the small German, whom at six months Ihave seen swallowing its little mug of lager as philosophically as itsserious-faced father. That these babies have fevers and rashes, and a hostof diseases peculiar to that age, is a matter of course; and equally amatter of course that the round-eyed mother wonders where it got itsdreadful disposition, but scorns the thought that lager or coffee can beirritants, or that the baby stomach requires but one food, and that onethe universal food of all young animal life, --milk. 

Take, then, our typical baby, lying fresh and sweet in the well aired andlighted room we suppose to be his birthright. The bones are still soft, the tender flesh and skin with little or no power of resistance. Muscles, nerves, all the wonderful tissues, are in process of formation; and in thestrange growth and development of this most helpless yet most precious ofall God's creations, there are certain elements which must behad, --phosphates to harden the delicate bones; nitrogen for flesh, whichis only developed muscle; carbon, --or sugar and fat, which representcarbon, --for the whole wonderful course of respiration and circulation. Water, too, must be in abundance to fill the tiny stomach, which in thebeginning can hold but a spoonful; and to float the blood-corpusclesthrough the winding channels whose mysteries, even now, no man has fullypenetrated. Caseine, which is the solid, nourishing, cheesy part of milk, and abounds in nitrogen, is also needed; and all the salts and alkaliesthat we have found to be necessary in forming perfect blood. Let us see ifmilk will meet these wants. 

COMPOSITION OF COW'S MILK. 

(_Supposed to contain 1, 000 parts. _)

Water 870. 2Caseine 44. 8Butter 31. 3Sugar 47. 7 ------_Carried forward_ 994. 0

_Brought forward_ 994. 0

Soda }Chloride of sodium and potassium}Phosphate of soda and potassa }Phosphate of lime } 6. 0Magnesia }Iron }Alkaline carbonates } ------- 1, 000. 0

Mother's milk being nearly the same, having only a larger proportion ofwater, will for the first year of our baby's life meet every demand thesystem can make. Even the first teeth are no sign, as ignorant mothersbelieve, that the stomach calls for stronger food. They are known, withreason, as milk-teeth, and the grinders delay their appearance for monthsafterward. A little oatmeal, bread and milk, and various porridges, comein here, that the bones may harden more rapidly; but that is all. The babyis in constant motion; and eyes and ears are taking in the mysteries ofthe new life, and busy hands testing properties, and little feet walkinginto mischief, all day. This is hardly the place to dwell upon the amountof knowledge acquired from birth to five years of age; yet when youconsider how the mind is reaching in every direction, appropriating, investigating, drawing conclusions which are the foundation of all ourafter-knowledge, you will see that the brain is working with an intensitynever afterwards equaled; and, as brain-work means actual destruction ofbrain-fiber, how vital it is that food should be furnished in the rightratio, and made up of the right elements!

With the coming of the grinders, and the call of the muscles and tissuesfor stronger food, begins the necessity for a more varied dietary. Ourbaby now, from two and a half to seven years of age, will require daily:--

Bread, not less than 12 ounces. Butter 1 ounce. Milk 1/2 pint. Meat 2 ounces. Vegetables 6 ounces. Pudding or gruel 6 ounces. 

This table is made from the dietaries of various children's hospitals, where long experiment has settled the quantities and qualities necessaryto health, or, as in these cases, recovery from sickness, at which timethe appetite is always keener. 

In many cases physicians who have studied the laws of food, and kept pacewith modern experiments in dietetics, strike out meat altogether till thechild is seven or eight years old, and allow it but once daily after thistime, and in very limited amount. Sir Henry Thompson, one of the mostdistinguished of English physicians, and a man noted for his popularity asdiner out and giver of dinners, writes strenuously against the prevailingexcessive use of meat, and especially protests against its over use forchildren; and his opinion is shared by most thoughtful medical men. Thenitrogenous vegetables advantageously take its place; and cheese, asprepared after the formulas given in Mattieu Williams's "Chemistry ofCookery, " is a food the value of which we are but just beginning toappreciate. 

As to quantity, with the healthy child, playing at will, there need bevery little restraint. Few children will eat too much of perfectly simplefood, such as this table includes. Let cake or pastry or sweetmeats enterin, and of course, as long as the thing tastes good, the child will begfor more. English children are confined to this simple diet; and though ofcourse a less exacting climate has much to do with the greaterhealthfulness of the English than the American people, the plain buthearty and regular diet of childhood has far more. 

Our young American of seven, at a hotel breakfast, would call for coffeeand ham and eggs and sausages and hot cakes. His English cousin would haveno liberty to call for anything. In fact, it is very doubtful if he wouldbe brought to table at all; and if there, bread and milk or oatmeal andmilk would form his meal. 

By this time I do not doubt our baby has your heartiest pity, and you aresaying, "What! no snacks? no cooky nor cake nor candy? no running to auntor grandmother or tender-hearted cook for goodies? If that must be so, half the pleasure of childhood is lost. "

Perhaps; but suppose that with that pleasure some other things are alsolost. Suppose our baby to have begun life with a nervous, irritable, sensitive organization, keenly alive to pain, and this hard regimen tohave covered these nerves with firm flesh, and filled the veins withclean, healthy blood. Suppose headache is unknown, and loss of appetite, and a bad taste in the mouth, and all the evils we know so well; and thatwork and play are easy, and food of the simplest eaten with solidsatisfaction. The child would choose the pleasant taste, and let healthgo, naturally; for a child has small reason, and life must be ordered forit. But if the mother or father has no sense or understanding of the lawsof food, it is useless to hope for the wholesome results that under thediet of our baby are sure to follow. 

By seven some going to school has begun; and from this time on the diet, while of the same general character, may vary more from day to day. Habitsof life are fixed during this time; and even if parents dislike certainarticles of food themselves, it is well to give no sign, but as far aspossible, accustom the child to eat any wholesome food. We are a wanderingpeople, and sooner or later are very likely to have circumnavigated theglobe, at least in part. Our baby must have no antipathies, but every goodthing given by Nature shall at least be tolerated. "I never eat this, " or"I never eat that, " is a formula that no educated person has a right touse save when some food actually hurtful or to which he has a naturalrepulsion is presented to him. Certain articles of diet are oftenstrangely and unaccountably harmful to some. Oysters are an almost deadlypoison to certain constitutions; milk to others. Cheese has produced thesame effect, and even strawberries; yet all these are luxuries to theordinary stomach. 

Usually the thing to guard against most carefully is gluttony, so far asboys are concerned. With girls the tendency often is to eat far toolittle. A false delicacy, a feeling that paleness and fragility arebeautiful and feminine, inclines the young girl often to eat less than shedesires; and the stomach accustoms itself to the insufficient supply, tillthe reception of a reasonable meal is an impossibility. Or if they eatimproper food (hot breads and much fat and sweets), the same resultfollows. Digestion, or rather assimilation, is impossible; and pasty faceand lusterless eyes become the rule. A greedy woman is the exception; andyet all schoolgirls know the temptation to over-eating produced by a boxof goodies from home, or the stronger temptation, after a school-term hasended, to ravage all cake-boxes and preserve-jars. Then comes the pill orpowder, and the habit of going to them for a relief which if no excess hadbeen committed, would have been unnecessary. Patent medicines are thenatural sequence of unwholesome food, and both are outrages oncommon-sense. 

We will take it for granted, then, that our baby has come to boyhood andyouth in blissful ignorance of their names or natures. But as we are notin the least certain what personal tastes he may have developed, or whatform his life-work is to take, --whether professional or mercantile orartisan in one of the many trades, --we can now only give the regimen bestadapted for each. 

Supposing his tastes to be scholarly, and a college and professionalcareer to be chosen, the time has come for slight changes in the system ofdiet, --very slight, however. It has become a popular saying among thinkersupon these questions, "Without phosphorus, no thinking;" and like allarbitrary utterances it has done more harm than good. The amount ofphosphorus passing through the system bears no relation whatever to theintensity of thought. "A captive lion, " to quote from Dr. Chambers, one ofthe most distinguished living authorities on diet, "a leopard, or hare, which can have wonderfully little to think about, assimilates and partswith a greater quantity of phosphorus than a professor of chemistryworking hard in his laboratory; while a beaver, who always seems to becontriving something, excretes so little phosphorus that chemical analysiscannot detect it. "

Phosphatic salts are demanded, but so are other salts, fat, and water;and the dietaries that order students to live upon fish, eggs, andoysters, because they are rich in phosphorus, without which the brainstarves, err just so far as they make this the sole reason, --the realreason being that these articles are all easily digested, and that thestudent, leading an inactive muscular life, does not require the heavy, hearty food of the laborer. 

The most perfect regimen for the intellectual life is precisely what wouldbe advised for the growing boy: frequent _small_ supplies ofeasily-digested food, that the stomach may never be overloaded, or thebrain clouded by the fumes of half-assimilated food. If our boy trains fora foot-race, rows with the college crew, or goes in for base-ball, hispower as a brain-worker at once diminishes. Strong muscular action anddevelopment hinder continuous mental work; and the literary life, as arule, allows no extremes, demanding only mild exercise and temperance asits foundation-stones. But our boy can well afford to develop his muscularsystem so perfectly that his mild exercise would seem to the untrained mantolerably heavy work. 

The rower in a college crew requires six weeks of training before hismuscular power and endurance have reached their height. Every particle ofsuperfluous fat must be removed, for fat is not strength, but weakness. There is a vast difference between the plumpness of good musculardevelopment and the flabby, heavy overloading of these muscles with rollsof fat. The chest must be enlarged, that the lungs may have full play, andbe capable of long-continued, extra draughts upon them; and special dietand special exercise alone can accomplish these ends. All fat-producingfoods are struck out, sugar and all starchy foods coming under this head, as well as all puddings, pies, cakes, and sweets in general. Our boy, after a short run, would breakfast on lean, under-done beef or mutton, drytoast, or the crust of bread, and tea without milk or sugar; would dine onmeat and a little bread and claret, and sup on more meat and toast, withcresses or some acid fruit, having rowed twice over the course in theafternoon, steadily increasing the speed, and following it by a bath andrub. At least nine hours sleep must be had; and with this diet, at the endof the training-time the muscles are hard and firm, the skin wonderfullypure and clear, and the capacity for long, steady breathing underexertion, almost unlimited. No better laws for the reduction of excessivefat can be laid down for any one. 

Under such a course, severe mental exertion is impossible; and the returnto it requires to be gradual. But light exercise with dumb-bells, &c. , fresh air, walking, and good food are the conditions of all sound mentalwork, whether done by man or woman. 

For the clerk or bookkeeper closely confined to desk or counter, much thesame regimen is needed, with brisk exercise at the beginning and end ofthe day, --at least always walking rather than riding to and from theoffice or store; while in all the trades where hard labor is necessary, heartier food must be the rule. And for all professions or trades, thesumming-up is the same: suitable food, fresh air, sunlight, and perfectcleanliness, --the following of these laws insuring the perfect use ofevery power to the very end. 

As old age advances, the food-demand lessens naturally. Nourishing foodis still necessary, but taken in much smaller quantities and more often, in order that the waning powers of the stomach may not be overtaxed. Living on such principles, work can go on till the time for work is over, and the long sleep comes as quietly as to a tired child. Simplecommon-sense and self-control will free one once for all from the fear, too often hanging over middle life, of a paralytic and helplessinvalidism, or the long train of apoplectic symptoms often the portioneven of middle life. 

I omit detail as to the character and effects of tea, coffee, alcohol, &c, such details coming in the chapters on the chemistry of food. 

CHAPTER X. 

THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 

Animal food has a wider range than is usually included under that head. The vegetarian who announces that no animal food is allowed upon his tableoffers a meal in which one finds milk, eggs, butter, and cheese, --allforms of animal food, and all strongly nourishing. A genuine vegetarian, if consistent, would be forced to reject all of these; and it has alreadybeen attempted in several large water-cures by enthusiasts who have laidaside their common-sense, and resigned with it some of the most essentialforces for life and work. Meat may often be entirely renounced, or eatenonly at rare intervals, with great advantage to health and working power, but the dietary for the varied nourishment which seems demanded mustinclude butter, cheese, eggs, and milk. 

Meats will be regarded as essential by the majority, and naturally theycome first in considering food; and beef is taken as the standard, beingidentical in composition with the structures of the human body. 

BEEF, if properly fed, is in perfection at seven years old. It should thenbe a light red on the cut surface, a darker red near the bone, andslightly marbled with fat. Beef contains, in a hundred parts, nearlytwenty of nitrogen, seventy-two of water, four of fat, and the remainderin salts of various descriptions. The poorer the quality of the beef, themore it will waste in cooking; and its appearance before cooking is alsovery different from that of the first quality, which, though lookingmoist, leaves no stain upon the hand. In poor beef, the watery part seemsto separate from the rest, which lies in a pool of serous bloody fluid. The gravy from such beef is pale and poor in flavor; while the fat, whichin healthy beef is firm and of a delicate yellow, in the inferior qualityis dark yellow and of rank smell and taste. Beef is firmer in texture andmore satisfying to the stomach than any other form of meat, and is usuallyconsidered more strengthening. 

MUTTON is a trifle more digestible, however. A healthy person would notnotice this, the digestive power in health being more than is necessaryfor the ordinary meal; but the dyspeptic will soon find that mutton giveshis stomach less work. Its composition is very nearly the same as that ofbeef; and both when cooked, either by roasting or boiling, lose about athird of their substance, and come to us with twenty-seven parts ofnitrogen, fifteen of fat, fifty-four of water, and three of salty matters. 

Mountain sheep and cattle have the finest-flavored meat, and are alsorichest in nitrogenous matter. The mountain mutton of Virginia and NorthCarolina is as famous as the English Southdown; but proper feedinganywhere will make a new thing of the ordinary beef and mutton. When ourcattle are treated with decent humanity, --not driven days with scant foodand water, and then packed into cars with no food and no water, and drivenat last to slaughter feverish and gasping in anguish that we have no rightto permit for one moment, --we may expect tender, wholesome, well-flavoredmeat. It is astonishing that under present conditions it can be as good asit is. 

In well-fed animals, the fat forms about a third of the weight, thelargest part being in the loin. In mutton, one-half is fat; in pork, three-quarters; while poultry and game have very little. 

The amount of bone varies very greatly. The loin and upper part of the leghave least; nearly half the entire weight being in the shin, and a tenthin the carcass. In the best mutton and pork, the bones are smaller, andfat much greater in proportion to size. 

VEAL and LAMB, like all young meats, are much less digestible than beef ormutton. Both should have very white, clear fat; and if that about thekidneys is red or discolored, the meat should be rejected. Veal has butsixteen parts of nitrogenous matter to sixty-three of water, and the bonescontain much more gelatine than is found in older animals. But in allbones much useful carbon and nitrogen is found; three pounds of boneyielding as much carbon, and six pounds as much nitrogen, as one pound ofmeat. Carefully boiled, this nutriment can all be extracted, and flavoredwith vegetables, form the basis of an endless variety of soups. 

PORK is of all meats the most difficult to digest, containing as it doesso large a proportion of fat. In a hundred parts of the meat, only nine ofnitrogen are found, fat being forty-eight and water thirty-nine, with buttwo of salty matters. Bacon properly cured is much more digestible thanpork, the smoke giving it certain qualities not existing in uncured pork. No food has yet been found which can take its place for army and navy useor in pioneering. Beef when salted or smoked loses much of its virtue, and eight ounces of fat pork will give nearly three times as much carbonor heat-food as the same amount of beef; but its use is chiefly for thelaborer, and it should have only occasional place in the dietary ofsedentary persons. 

The pig is liable to many most unpleasant diseases, measles and trichinaspiralis being the most fatal to the eaters of meat thus affected; but thelast--a small animalcule of deadly effect if taken alive into the humanstomach, as is done in eating raw ham or sausage--becomes harmless if thesame meat is long and thoroughly boiled. Never be tempted into eating rawham or sausage; and in using pork in any form, try to have some knowledgeof the pig. A clean, well-fed pig in a well-kept stye is a wonderfullydifferent object from the hideous beast grunting its way in many aSouthern or Western town, feeding on offal and sewage, and rolling infilth. Such meat is unfit for human consumption, and the eating of itinsures disease. 

We come now to another form of meat, that of edible ENTRAILS. Thisincludes _Tripe_, _Haslet_, or lights, &c. More nitrogen is found herethan in any other portion of the meat. The cheap and abundant supply inthis country has made us, as a people, reject all but the liver. In thecountry, the sweetbreads or pancreas are often thrown away, and tripealso. The European peasant has learned to utilize every scrap; and whilesuch use should not be too strongly urged, it is certain that this meat isfar better than _no_ meat. Fully one-third of the animals' weight comesunder this head, --that is, feet, tail, head, and tongue, lungs, liver, spleen, omentum, pancreas, and heart, together with the intestines. Therich man is hardly likely to choose much of this food, the tongue andsweetbreads being the only dainty bits; but there are wholesome and savorydishes to be made from every part, and the knowledge of their preparationmay be of greatest value to a poorer neighbor. Both ox-tails and head makeexcellent soup. Tripe, the inner lining of the stomach, is, if properlyprepared, not only appetizing but pleasant to the eye. Calves' feet makegood jelly; and pigs' feet, ears, and head are soused or made intoscrapple. Blood-puddings are much eaten by Germans, but we are not likelyto adopt their use. Fresh blood has, however, been found of wonderfuleffect for consumptive patients; and there are certain slaughter-houses inour large cities where every day pale invalids are to be found waiting forthe goblet of almost living food from the veins of the still warm animal. Horrible as it seems, the taste for it is soon acquired; and certainly thegood results warrant at least the effort to acquire it. 

VENISON comes next in the order of meats, but is more like game than anyordinary butchers' meat. It is lean, dark in color, and savory, and ifwell cooked, very digestible. 

POULTRY are of more importance to us than game, and the flesh, containingless nitrogen, is not so stimulating as beef or mutton. Old fowls areoften tough and indigestible, and have often, also, a rank flavor like aclose hen-house, produced by the absorption into the flesh of the oilintended by nature to lubricate the feathers. 

GAME contains even less fat than poultry, and is considered morestrengthening. The flesh of rabbits and hares is more like poultry or gamethan meat, but is too close in fiber to be as digestible. Pigeons and manyother birds come under none of the heads given. As a rule, flesh istender in proportion to the smallness of the animal, and many varietiesare eaten for the description of which we have no room here. 

FISH forms the only animal food for a large part of the world. It does notpossess the satisfying or stimulating properties belonging to flesh, yetthe inhabitants of fishing-towns are shown to be unusually strong andhealthy. The flesh of some fish is white, and of others red; the redholding much more oil, and being therefore less digestible. In _Salmon_, the most nutritious of all fishes, there are, in a hundred parts, sixteenof nitrogen, six of fat, nearly two of saline matter, and seventy-seven ofwater. _Eels_ contain thirteen parts of fat. _Codfish_, the best-known ofall the white fish, vary greatly, according to the time of year in whichthey are taken, being much more digestible in season than out (i. E. , fromOctober to May). _Mackerel_ and _Herring_ both abound in oil, the latterespecially, giving not only relish to the Irishman's potato, but thecarbon he needs as heat-food. _Shell-fish_ are far less digestible, the_Oyster_ being the only exception. The nitrogenous matter in oysters isfourteen parts, of fatty matter one and a half, of saline matter two, andof water eighty. At the time of spawning--from May to September--they losetheir good condition, and become unwholesome. _Lobsters_ rank next inimportance, and are more delicate and finer-flavored than _Crabs_. Bothare, however, very difficult of digestion, and should only be usedoccasionally. The many forms of pickled and smoked fish are convenient, but always less wholesome than fresh. 

MILK comes next, and has already been considered in a previous chapter. Itis sometimes found to disagree with the stomach, but usually becauselooked upon as drink and not as real food, the usual supply of which istaken, forgetful of the fact that a glass or two of milk contains as muchnourishment as two-thirds of the average meal. The nitrogenous matter inmilk is known as caseine, and it is this which principally forms cheese. 

CHEESE is commonly considered only a relish, but is in reality one of themost condensed forms of nitrogenous food; and a growing knowledge of itsvalue has at last induced the Army Department to add it to the army rationlist. Mattieu Williams, after giving the chemical formulas of caseine andthe other elements of cheese, writes; "I have good and sufficient reasonsfor thus specifying the properties of this constituent of food. I regardit as the most important of all that I have to describe in connection withmy subject, --The Science of Cookery. It contains, as I shall presentlyshow, more nutritious material than any other food that is ordinarilyobtainable, and its cookery is singularly neglected, --practically anunknown art, especially in this country. We commonly eat it raw, althoughin its raw state it is peculiarly indigestible, and in the only cookedform familiarly known among us here, that of Welsh rabbit or rare-bit, itis too often rendered still more indigestible, though this need not be thecase. Cream-cheese is the richest form, but keeps less well than that ofmilk. Stilton, the finest English brand, is made partly of cream, partlyof milk, and so with various other foreign brands, Gruyere, &c. Parmesanis delicately flavored with fine herbs, and retains this flavor almostunaltered by age. Our American cheeses now rank with the best foreignones, and will grow more and more in favor as their value is understood, this being their strongly nitrogenous character. A cheese of twentypounds weight contains as much food as a sheep weighing sixty pounds, asit hangs in the butcher's shop. In Dutch and factory cheeses, where thecurd has been precipitated by hydrochloric acid, the food value is lessthan where rennet is used; but even in this case, it is far beyond meat inactual nutritive power. "

BUTTER is a purely carbonaceous or heat-giving food, being the fatty partof the milk, which rises in cream. It is mentioned in the very earliesthistory, and the craving for it seems to be universal. Abroad it is eatenwithout salt; but to keep it well, salt is a necessity, and its absencesoon allows the development of a rank and unpleasant odor. In other words, butter without it becomes rancid; and if any particle of whey is allowedto remain in it, the same effect takes place. 

Perfect butter is golden in color, waxy in consistency, and with asweetness of odor quite indescribable, yet unmistakable to the trainedjudge of butter. It possesses the property of absorption of odors in acurious degree; and if shut in a tight closet or a refrigerator with fish, meat, or vegetables of rank or even pronounced smell, exchanges its owndelicate aroma for theirs, and reaches us bereft once for all of what isthe real charm of perfect butter. For this reason absolute cleanliness anddaintiness of vessels containing milk or cream, or used in any way in themanufacture of butter, is one of the first laws of the dairy. 

_Ghee_, the East-Indian form of butter, is simply fresh butter clarifiedby melting, and is used as a dressing for the meal of rice. Butter, thoughcounted as a pure fat, is in reality made up of at least six fattyprinciples, there being sixty-eight per cent of margarine and thirty percent of oleine, the remainder being volatile compounds of fatty acids. Inthe best specimens of butter there is a slight amount of caseine, not overfive per cent at most, though in poor there is much more. It is the onlyfat which may be constantly eaten without harm to the stomach, though ifnot perfectly good it becomes an irritant. 

The _Drippings_ of roasted meat, more especially of beef, rank next invalue; and _Lard_ comes last on the list, its excessive use being aserious evil. Eaten constantly, as in pastry or the New-England doughnut, it is not only indigestible, but becomes the source of forms of scrofulousdisease. It is often a convenient substitute for butter, but if it must beused, would better be in connection with the harmless fat. 

Eggs come last; and as a young animal is developed from them, it followsthat they contain all that is necessary for animal life, though in thecase of the chicken the shell also is used, all the earthy matter beingabsorbed. In a hundred parts are found fourteen of nitrogen, ten and ahalf of fatty matter, one and a half of saline matter, and seventy-four ofwater. Of this water the largest part is contained in the white, which isalmost pure albumen, each particle of albumen being enclosed in verythin-walled cells; it is the breaking of these cells and the admission ofair that enables one to beat the white of egg to a stiff froth. The fat isaccumulated in the yolk, often amounting to thirty per cent. Raw andlightly-boiled eggs are easy of digestion, but hard-boiled ones decidedlynot so. An egg loses its freshness within a day or so. The shell isporous; and the always-feeding and destroying oxygen of the air quicklygains admission, causing a gradual decomposition. To preserve them, theymust be coated with lard or gum, or packed in either salt or oats, pointsdown. In this way they keep good a long time, and while hardly desirableto eat as boiled eggs, answer for many purposes in cooking. 

CHAPTER XI. 

THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 

We come now to the vegetable kingdom, the principal points that we are toconsider arranging themselves somewhat as follows:--

Farinaceous seeds, Oleaginous seeds, Leguminous seeds, Tubers and roots, Herbaceous articles, Fruits, Saccharine and farinaceous preparations. 

Under the first head, that of farinaceous seeds, are included wheat, rye, oats, Indian corn, rice, and a variety of less-known grains, allpossessing in greater or less degree the same constituents. It will beimpossible to more than touch upon many of them; and wheat must stand asthe representative, being the best-known and most widely used of allgrains. Each one is made up of nitrogenous compounds, gluten, albumen, caseine, and fibrine, gluten being the most valuable. Starch, dextrine, sugar, and cellulose are also found; fatty matter, which gives thecharacteristic odor of grain; mineral substances, as phosphates of limeand magnesia, salts of potash and soda, and silica, which we shall shortlymention again. 

_Hard Wheat_, or that grown in hot climates and on fertile soil, has muchmore nitrogen than that of colder countries. In hard wheat, in a hundredparts, twenty-two will be of nitrogen, fifty-nine starch, ten dextrine, &c, four cellulose, two and a half of fatty matter, and three of mineral, thus giving many of the constituents found in animal food. 

This wheat is taken as bread, white or brown, biscuits, crackers, variouspreparations of the grain whether whole or crushed, and among the Italiansas _macaroni_, the most condensed form of cereal food. The best macaroniis made from the red wheat grown along the Mediterranean Sea, a hot summerand warm climate producing a grain, rich, as already mentioned, innitrogen, and with a smaller proportion of water than farther north. Theintense though short summer of our own far North-west seems to bringsomewhat the same result, but the outer husk is harder. This husk was foryears considered a necessity in all really nutritious bread; and ageneration of vegetarians taking their name from Dr. Graham, and known asGrahamites, conceived the idea of living upon the wheaten flour in whichhusk and kernel were ground together. Now, to stomachs and livers broughtto great grief by persistent pie and doughnuts and some other New-Englandwickednesses, these husks did a certain office of stimulation, stirring upjaded digestions, and really seeming to arrest or modify long-standingdyspepsia. But they did not know what we do, that this outer husk is alayer of pure silica, one of the hardest of known minerals. Boil it sixweeks, and it comes out unchanged. Boil it six years, or six centuries, and the result would be the same. You can not stew a grindstone or bringgranite to porridge, and the wheat-husk is equally obstinate. So long asenthusiasts ate husk and kernel ground together, little harm was done. Butwhen a more progressive soul declared that in bran alone the truenutriment lay, and a host of would-be healthier people proceeded to eatbran and preach bran, there came a time when eating and preaching bothstopped, from sheer want of strength to go on. The enthusiasts wereliterally starving themselves to death--for starvation is by no means meredeprivation of food: on the contrary, a man may eat heartily to the day ofhis death, and feel no inconvenience, so far as any protest of the stomachis concerned, yet the verdict of the wise physician would be, "Died ofstarvation. " If the food was unsuitable, and could not be assimilated, this was inevitable. Blood, muscle, nerve--each must have its fittingfood; and thus it is easy to see why knowledge is the first condition ofhealthful living. The moral is: Never rashly experiment in diet till surewhat you are about, and, if you can not for yourselves find out the natureof your projected food, call upon some one who can. 

Where wheat is ground whole, it includes six and a half parts ofheat-producers to one of flesh-formers. The amount of starch variesgreatly. Two processes of making flour are now in use, --one the old, orSt. Louis process; the other, the "new process, " giving Haxall flour. Inthe former, grindstones were used, which often reached so great a degreeof heat as to injure the flour; and repeated siftings gave the variousgrades. In the new, the outer husk is rejected, and a system of knives isused, which chop the grain to powder, and it is claimed do not heat it. The product is more starchy, and for this reason less desirable. We eatfar too much heat-producing food, and any thing which gives us the glutenof the grain is more wholesome, and thus "seconds" is really a morenutritious flour than the finer grades. Try for yourselves a smallexperiment, and you will learn the nature of flour better than in pages ofdescription. 

Take a little flour; wet it with cold water enough to form a dough. Placeit on a sieve, and, while working it with one hand, pour a steady streamof water over it with another. Shortly you will find a grayish, tough, elastic lump before you, while in the pan below, when the water iscarefully poured off, will be pure wheat-starch, the water itselfcontaining all the sugar, dextrine or gum, and mineral matter. Thistoughness and elasticity of gluten is an important quality; for inbread-making, were it not for the gluten, the carbonic-acid gas formed bythe action of yeast on dough would all escape. But, though it works itsway out vigorously enough to swell up each cell, the gluten binds it fast, and enables us to have a panful of light "sponge, " where a few hoursbefore was only a third of a pan. 

Starch, as you have seen, will not dissolve in the cold water. Dry it, after the water is poured on, and minute grains remain. Look at thesegrains under a microscope, and each one is cased in a thick skin, whichcold water can not dissolve. In boiling water, the skins crack, and theinside swells and becomes gummy. Long boiling is thus an essential for allstarchy foods. 

Bread proper is simply flour, water, and salt, mixed to a firm dough andbaked. Such bread as this, Abram gave to his angelic guests, and at thisday the Bedouin Arab bakes it on his heated stone. But bread, as weunderstand it, is always lightened by the addition of yeast or some formof baking-powder, yeast making the most wholesome as well as mostpalatable bread. Carbonic-acid gas is the active agent required; and yeastso acts upon the little starch-granules, which the microscope shows asforming the finest flour, that this gas is formed and evenly distributedthrough the whole dough. The process is slow, and in the action some ofthe natural sweetness of the flour is lost. In what is known as aëratedbread, the gas made was forced directly into the dough, by means of amachine invented for the purpose; and a very scientific and very goodbread it is. But it demands an apparatus not to be had save at greatexpense, and the older fashions give a sufficiently sweet and desirablebread. 

_Rye_ and _Indian Corn_ form the next best-known varieties of flour inbread-making; but barley and oats are also used, and beans, pease, rice, chestnuts, in short, any farinaceous seed, or legume rich in starch, canfill the office. 

_Oatmeal_ may take rank as one of the best and most digestible forms offarinaceous food. Some twenty-eight per cent of the grain is husk, seventy-two being kernel; and this kernel forms a meal containing twelveparts of nitrogenous matter, sixty-three of carbo-hydrates, five and ahalf of fatty matter, three of saline, and fifteen of water. So littlegluten is found, that the flour of oats can not be made into loaves ofbread; although, mixed and baked as thin cakes, it forms a large part ofthe Scotchman's food. It requires thorough cooking, and is then slightlylaxative and very easily digested. 

_Buckwheat_ is very rich in nitrogenous substances, and as we eat it, inthe form of cakes with butter and sirup, so heating a food, as to be onlysuitable for hard workers in cold weather. 

Indian corn has also a very small proportion of gluten, and thus makes abread which crumbles too readily. But it is the favorite form of bread, not only for South and West in our own country, but in Spanish America, Southern Europe, Germany, and Ireland. It contains a larger amount offatty matter than any other grain, this making it a necessity in fatteninganimals. In a hundred parts are eleven of nitrogen, sixty-five ofcarbo-hydrates, eight of fatty matter, one and a half of saline, andfourteen of water. The large amount of fatty matter makes it difficult tokeep much meal on hand, as it grows rancid and breeds worms; and it isbest that it should be ground in small quantities as required. 

_Rice_ abounds in starch. In a hundred parts are found seven and a half ofnitrogen, eighty-eight of starch, one of dextrine, eight-tenths of fattymatter, one of cellulose, and nine-tenths of mineral matter. Taken aloneit can not be called a nutritive food; but eaten with butter or milk andeggs, or as by the East Indians in curry, it holds an important place. 

We come now to OLEAGINOUS SEEDS; nuts, the cocoanut, almonds, &c, comingunder this head. While they are rich in oil, this very fact makes themindigestible, and they should be eaten sparingly. 

_Olive-oil_ must find mention here. No fat of either the animal orvegetable kingdom surpasses this in delicacy and purity. Palm-oil fillsits place with the Asiatics in part; but the olive has no peer in thisrespect, and we lose greatly in our general distaste for this form offood. The liking for it should be encouraged as decidedly as the likingfor butter. It is less heating, more soothing to the tissues, and fromchildhood to old age its liberal use prevents many forms of disease, aswell as equalizes digestion in general. 

LEGUMINOUS SEEDS are of more importance, embracing as they do the wholetribe of beans, pease, and lentils. Twice as much nitrogen is found inbeans as in wheat; and they rank so near to animal food, that by theaddition of a little fat they practically can take its place. Bacon andbeans have thus been associated for centuries, and New England owes toAssyria the model for the present Boston bean-pot. In the best table-bean, either Lima or the butter-bean, will be found in a hundred parts, thirtyof nitrogen, fifty-six of starch, one and a half of cellulose, two offatty matter, three and a half of saline, and eight and a half of water. The proportion of nitrogen is less in pease, but about the same inlentils. The chestnut also comes under this head, and is largely eaten inSpain and Italy, either boiled, or dried and ground into flour. 

TUBERS and ROOTS follow, and of these the _Potato_ leads the van. Low asyou may have noticed their standing on the food-table to be, they are themost economical and valuable of foods, combining as well with others, andas little cloying to the palate, as bread itself. Each pound of potatoescontains seven hundred and seventy grains of carbon, and twenty-fourgrains of nitrogen; each pound of wheat-flour, two thousand grains ofcarbon, and one hundred and twenty of nitrogen. But the average cost ofthe pound of potatoes is but one cent; that of the pound of wheat, four. It is obtainable at all seasons, and thus invaluable as a permanent store, though best in the winter. Spring, the germinating season, diminishes itsnutritive value. New potatoes are less nutritious than older ones, and incooking, if slightly underdone, are said to satisfy the appetite better;this being the reason why the laboring classes prefer them, as they say, "with a bone in them. "

In a hundred parts are found but two of nitrogen, eighteen of starch, three of sugar, two-tenths of fat, seven-tenths of saline matter, andseventy-five parts of water. The _Sweet-potato_, _Yam_, and _Artichoke_are all of the same character. Other _Tubers_, the _Turnip_, _Beet_, _Carrot_, and _Parsnip_, are in ordinary use. The turnip is nine-tenthswater, but possesses some valuable qualities. The beet, though alsolargely water, has also a good deal of sugar, and is excellent food. Carrots and parsnips are much alike in composition. Carrots are generallyrejected as food, but properly cooked are very appetizing, their greatestuse, however, being in soups and stews. 

HERBACEOUS ARTICLES follow; and, though we are not accustomed to consider_Cabbage_ as an herb, it began existence as cole-wort, a shrub or herb onthe south coast of England. Cultivation has developed it into a firm roundhead; and as a vegetable, abounding as it does in nitrogen, it ranks nextto beans as a food. _Cauliflower_ is a very delicate and highly prizedform of cabbage, but cabbage itself can be so cooked as to stronglyresemble it. 

_Onions_ are next in value, being much milder and sweeter when grown in awarm climate, but used chiefly as a flavoring. _Lettuce_ and _Celery_ areespecially valuable; the former for salads, the latter to be eaten withoutdressing though it is excellent cooked. _Tomatoes_ are really a fruit, though eaten as a vegetable, and are of especial value as a cooling food. Egg-plant, cucumbers, &c. , all demand space; and so with edible fungi, mushrooms, and truffles, the latter the property of the epicure, andreally not so desirable as that fact would indicate. 

FRUITS are last in order; and among these stands first of all the apple. While in actual analysis fruits have less nutritive value than vegetables, their acids and salts give to them the power of counteracting theunhealthy states brought about by the long use of dried or saltedprovisions. They are a corrective also of the many evils arising fromprofuse meat-eating, the citric acid of lemons and grape-fruit being anantidote to rheumatic and gouty difficulties. Cold storage now enables oneto command grapes long after their actual season has ended, and they areinvaluable food. The brain-worker is learning to depend more and more onfruit in all its forms; and apples lead the list, containing more solidnutriment than any other form. While considered less digestible raw thanbaked, they are still one of the most attractive, life-giving forms offood, and if eaten daily would prove a standard antidote to patentmedicine. The list of fruits is too long for mention here; but all havetheir specific uses, and are necessary to perfect health. 

SUGAR and HONEY follow in the stores of the vegetable kingdom. Cane-sugarand glucose, or grape-sugar, are the two recognized varieties, though themaking of beet-sugar has become an industry here as well as in France. Grape-sugar requires to be used in five times the amount of cane, tosecure the same degree of sweetness. Honey also is a food, --a concentratedsolution of sugar, mixed with odorous, gummy, and waxy matters. Itpossesses much the same food value as sugar, and is easily digested. 

With the various FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS, _Sago_, _Tapioca_, _Arrow-root_, &c, the vegetable dietary ends. All are light, digestiblefoods, principally starchy in character, but with little nutriment unlessunited with milk or eggs. Their chief use is in the sick-room. 

Restricted as comment must be, each topic introduced will well rewardstudy; and the story of each of these varied ingredients in cookery, ifwell learned, will give one an unsuspected range of thought, and a newsense of the wealth that may be hidden in very common things. 

CHAPTER XII. 

CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. 

Condiments are simply seasoning or flavoring agents, and, though hardlycoming under the head of food, yet have an important part to play. As foodby their use is rendered more tempting, a larger amount is consumed, andthus a delicate or uncertain appetite is often aided. In some cases theyhave the power of correcting the injurious character of some foods. 

Salt stands foremost. Vinegar, lemon-juice, and pickles owe their value toacidity; while mustard, pepper black and red, ginger, curry-powder, andhorse-radish all depend chiefly upon pungency. Under the head of aromaticcondiments are ranged cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, allspice, mint, thyme, fennel, sage, parsley, vanilla, leeks, onions, shallots, garlic, andothers, all of them entering into the composition of various sauces ingeneral use. 

Salt is the one thing indispensable. The old Dutch law condemned criminalsto a diet of unsalted food, the effects being said to be those of theseverest physical torture. Years ago an experiment tried near Parisdemonstrated the necessity of its use. A number of cattle were fed withoutthe ration of salt; an equal number received it regularly. At the end of aspecified time, the unsalted animals were found rough of coat, the hairfalling off in spots, the eyes wild, and the flesh hardly half the amountof those naturally fed. 

A class of extreme Grahamites in this country decry the use of salt, aswell as of any form of animal food; and I may add that the expression oftheir thought in both written and spoken speech is as savorless as theirdiet. 

Salt exists, as we have already found, in the blood: the craving for it isa universal instinct, even buffaloes making long journeys across theplains to the salt-licks; and its use not only gives character to insipidfood, but increases the flow of the gastric juice. 

Black pepper, if used profusely as is often done in American cooking, becomes an irritant, and produces indigestion. Red pepper, or cayenne, onthe contrary, is a useful stimulant at times; but, as with mustard, anyover-use irritates the lining of the stomach. 

So with spices and sweet herbs. There should be only such use of them aswill flavor well, delicately, and almost imperceptibly. No one flavorshould predominate, and only a sense of general savoriness rule. Extracts, as of vanilla, lemon, bitter almond, &c. , should be used with the greatestcare, and if possible always be added to an article after it cools, as theheat wastes the strength. 

BEVERAGES. 

Tea and coffee are the most universal drinks, after water. The flavor ofboth is due to a principle, _theine_ in tea, _caffeine_ in coffee, inwhich both the good and the ill effects of these drinks are bound up. Itis hardly necessary the principles should have different names, as theyhave been found by chemists to be identical; the essential spirit of cocoaand chocolate, --_theobromine_, --though not identical, having many of thesame properties. 

_Tea_ is valuable chiefly for its warming and comforting qualities. Takenin moderation, it acts partly as a sedative, partly as a stimulant, arresting the destruction of tissue, and seeming to invigorate the wholenervous system. The water in it, even if impure, is made wholesome byboiling, and the milk and sugar give a certain amount of real nourishment. Nervous headaches are often cured by it, and it has, like coffee, beenused as an antidote in opium-poisoning. 

Pass beyond the point of moderation, and it becomes an irritant, preciselyin the same way that an overdose of morphine will, instead of putting tosleep, for just so much longer time prevent any sleep at all. The womanwho can not eat, and who braces her nerves with a cup of green tea, --themost powerful form of the herb, --is doing a deeper wrong than she may beable to believe. The immediate effect is delightful. Lightness, exhilaration, and sense of energy are all there; but the re-action comessurely, and only a stronger dose next time accomplishes the end desired. Nervous headaches, hysteria in its thousand forms, palpitations, and thelong train of nervous symptoms, own inordinate tea and coffee drinking astheir parent. Taken in reasonable amounts, tea can not be said to behurtful; and the medium qualities, carefully prepared, often make a morewholesome tea than that of the highest price, the harmful properties beingstrongest in the best. If the water is soft, it should be used as soon asboiled, boiling causing all the gases which give flavor to water toescape. In hard water, boiling softens it. In all cases the water must befresh, and poured boiling upon the proper portion of tea, --the teapothaving first been well scalded with boiling water. Never boil any tea butEnglish-breakfast tea; for all others, simple steeping gives the drink inperfection. 

A disregard of these rules gives one the rank, black, unpleasant infusiontoo often offered as tea; while, if boiled in tin, it becomes a species ofslow poison, --the tannic acid in the tea acting upon the metal, andproducing a chemical compound whose character it is hard to determine. Various other plants possess the essential principle of tea, and are usedas such; as in Paraguay, where the Brazilian holly is dried, and makes atea very exhilarating in quality, but much more astringent. 

The use of _Coffee_ dates back even farther than that of tea. Of the manyvarieties, Mocha and Java are finest in flavor, and a mixture of one-thirdMocha with two-thirds Java gives the drink at its best. As in tea, thereare three chief constituents: (1) A volatile oil, giving the aroma itpossesses, but less in amount than that in tea. (2) Astringent matter, --amodification of tannin, but also less than in tea. (3) Caffeine, now foundidentical with theine, but varying in amount in different varieties ofcoffee, --being in some three or four per cent, in others less. 

The most valuable property of coffee is its power of relieving thesensation of hunger and fatigue. To the soldier on active service, nothingcan take its place; and in our own army it became the custom often, notonly to drink the infusion, but, if on a hard march, to eat the groundsalso. In all cases it diminishes the waste of tissue. In hot weather it istoo heating and stimulating, acting powerfully upon the liver, and, byproducing over-activity of that organ, bringing about a generaldisturbance. 

So many adulterations are found in ground coffee, that it is safest forthe real coffee-lover to buy the bean whole. Roasting is usually moreperfectly done at the grocers', in their rotary roasters, which give everygrain its turn; but, by care and constant stirring, it can be accomplishedat home. Too much boiling dissipates the delicious aroma we all know; andthe best methods are considered to be those which allow no boiling, afterboiling water has been poured upon it, but merely a standing, to infuseand settle. The old fashion, however, of mixing with an egg, and boiling afew minutes, makes a coffee hardly inferior in flavor. In fact, themethods are many, but results, under given conditions, much the same; andwe may choose urn, or old-fashioned tin pot, or a French biggin, with thecertainty that good coffee, well roasted, boiling water, and good judgmentas to time, will give always a delicious drink. Make a note of the factthat long boiling sets free tannic acid, powerful enough to literally tanthe coats of the stomach, and bring on incurable dyspepsia. Often coffeewithout milk can be taken, where, with milk, it proves harmful; but, inall cases, moderation must rule. Taken too strong, palpitation of theheart, vertigo, and fainting are the usual consequences. 

_Cocoa_, or, literally, cacao, from the cacao-tree, comes in the form of athick seed, twenty or thirty of which make up the contents of a gourd-likefruit, the spaces between being filled with a somewhat acid pulp. Theseeds, when freed from this pulp by various processes, are first dried inthe sun, and then roasted; and from these roasted seeds come various formsof cocoa. 

_Cocoa-shells_ are the outer husk, and by long boiling yield a pleasantand rather nutritious drink. Cocoa itself is the nut ground to powder, andsometimes mixed with sugar, the husk being sometimes ground with it. 

In _Chocolate_--a preparation of cocoa--the cocoa is carefully dried androasted, and then ground to a smooth paste, the nuts being placed on a hotiron plate, and so keeping the oily matter to aid in forming a paste. Sugar and flavorings, as vanilla, are often added, and the whole pressedinto cakes. The whole substance of the nut being used, it is exceedinglynutritious, and made more so by the milk and sugar added. Eaten with breadit forms not only a nourishing but a hearty meal; and so condensed is itsform, that a small cake carried in traveling, and eaten with a cracker ortwo, will give temporarily the effect of a full meal. 

In a hundred parts of chocolate are found forty-eight of fatty matter orcocoa-butter, twenty-one of nitrogenous matter, four of theobromine, eleven of starch, three of cellulose, three of mineral matter, and ten ofwater; there being also traces of coloring matter, aromatic essence, andsugar. Twice as much nitrogenous, and twenty-five times as much fattymatter as wheaten flour, make it a valuable food, though the excess of fatwill make it disagree with a very delicate stomach. 

_Alcohol_ is last upon our list, and scientific men are still uncertainwhether or not it can in any degree be considered as a food; but we haveno room for the various arguments for and against. You all know, in partat least, the effects of intemperance; and even the moderate daily drinkersuffers from clouded mind, irritable nerves, and ruined digestion. 

This is not meant as an argument for total abstinence; but there are caseswhere such abstinence is the only rule. In an inherited tendency to drink, there is no other safe road; but to the man or woman who lives by law, andwhose body is in the best condition, wine in its many forms is apermissible _occasional_ luxury, and so with beer and cider and the widerange of domestic drinks. In old age its use is almost essential, butalways in moderation, individual temperament modifying every rule, andmaking the best knowledge an imperative need. A little alcoholic drinkincreases a delicate appetite: a great deal diminishes or takes it awayentirely, and also hinders and in many cases stops digestion altogether. In its constant over-use the membranes of the stomach are graduallydestroyed, and every organ in the body suffers. In ales and beers there isnot only alcohol, but much nitrogenous and sugary matter, very fatteningin its nature. A light beer, well flavored with hops, is an aid todigestion, but taken in excess produces biliousness. The long list ofalcoholic products it is not necessary to give, nor is it possible toenter into much detail regarding alcohol itself; but there are one or twopoints so important that they can not be passed by. 

You will recall in a preceding chapter the description of the circulationof the blood, and of its first passage through veins and arteries forcleansing, before a second round could make it food for the whole complexnervous system. Alcohol taken in excess, it has been proved in countlessexperiments by scientific men, possesses the power of coagulating theblood. The little corpuscles adhere in masses, and cannot force themselvesthrough the smaller vessels, and circulation is at once hindered. This, however, is the secondary stage. At first, as many of you have hadoccasion to notice, the face flushes, the eyes grow brighter, and thoughtand word both come more freely. The heart beats far more rapidly, and thespeed increases in proportion to the amount of alcohol absorbed. Theaverage number of beats of the heart, allowing for its slower actionduring sleep, is 100, 000 beats per day. Under a small supply of alcoholthis rose to 127, 000, and in actual intoxication to 131, 000. 

The flush upon the cheek is only a token of the same fact within; everyorgan is congested. The brain has been examined under such circumstances, and "looked as if injected with vermilion . . . The membrane covering bothbrains resembling a delicate web of coagulated red blood, so tensely wereits fine vessels engorged. "

At a later stage the muscular power is paralyzed, the rule of mind overbody suspended, and a heavy, brutal sleep comes, long or short accordingto the amount taken. This is the extreme of alcoholism, and death the onlyending to it, as a habitual condition. Alcohol seems a necessary evil; forthat its occasional beneficence can modify or neutralize the long list ofwoe and crime and brutality following in its train, is more than doubtful. 

"Whatever good can come from alcohol, or whatever evil, is all included inthat primary physiological and luxurious action of the agent upon thenervous supply of the circulation. . . . If it be really a luxury for theheart to be lifted up by alcohol, for the blood to course more swiftlythrough the brain, for the thoughts to flow more vehemently, for words tocome more fluently, for emotions to rise ecstatically, and for life torush on beyond the pace set by nature; then those who enjoy the luxurymust enjoy it--with the consequences. "

And now, at the end of our talks together, friends, there is yet anotherword. Much must remain unsaid in these narrow limits; but they are wideenough, I hope, to have given the key by which you may find easy entranceto the mysteries we all may know, indeed must, if our lives are trulylived. If through intemperance, in meat or drink, in feeling or thought, you lessen bodily or mental power, you alone are accountable, whetherignorant or not. Only in a never-failing self-control can safety ever be. Temperance is the foundation of high living; and here is its definition, by one whose own life holds it day by day:--

"Temperance is personal cleanliness; is modesty; is quietness; isreverence for one's elders and betters; is deference to one's mother andsisters; is gentleness; is courage; is the withholding from all whichleads to excess in daily living; is the eating and drinking only of thatwhich will insure the best body which the best soul is to inhabit: nay, temperance is all these, and more. "

_PART II. _

STOCK AND SEASONING. 

The preparation called STOCK is for some inscrutable reason astumbling-block to average cooks, and even by experienced housekeepers isoften looked upon as troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts offresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective might beappropriate; but stock in reality is the only mode by which every scrap ofbone or meat, whether cooked or uncooked, can be made to yield the lastparticle of nourishment contained in it. Properly prepared and strainedinto a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in the making ofhashes and gravies as in soup itself. 

The first essential is a tightly-covered kettle, either tinned iron orporcelain-lined, holding not less than two gallons; three being apreferable size. Whether cooked or uncooked meat is used, it should be cutinto small bits, and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that themarrow may be easily extracted. 

To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of cold water, one eventeaspoon of salt, and half a saltspoon of pepper. Let the meat stand tillthe water is slightly colored with its juice; then put upon the fire, andlet it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle of scum as itrises. The least neglect of this point will give a broth in which bits ofdark slime float about, unpleasant to sight and taste. A cup of coldwater, thrown in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely. Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to each pound ofmeat. The water will boil away, leaving, at the end of the time specified, not more than half or one-third the original amount. In winter this willbecome a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thusobtaining a strong, clear broth; or can be diluted with an equal quantityof water, and vegetables added for a vegetable soup. 

The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time given, hasparted with all its juices, and is therefore useless as food. If wantedfor hashes or croquettes, the portion needed should be taken out as soonas tender, and a pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, whendone, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, when cold, remove the cake of fat which will rise to the top. This fat, melted andstrained, serves for many purposes better than lard. If the stock is to bekept several days, leave the fat on till ready to use it. 

Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all remains of poultry orgame, and trimmings of chops and steaks, may be added, mutton being theonly meat which can not as well be used in combination; though even this, by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is intended to keepthe stock for some days, no vegetables should be added, as vegetablejuices ferment very easily. For clear soups they must be cooked with themeat; and directions will be given under that head for amounts andseasonings. 

The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none of which areallowed to predominate; and, minutely as rules for such flavoring may begiven, only careful and frequent _tasting_ will insure success. Everyvegetable, spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, driedor fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple stock, by the addition ofthese various ingredients, becomes the myriad number of soups to be foundin the pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffée's or Francatelli's. 

_Brown soups_ are made by frying the meat or game used in them tillthoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark spices or sauces in theirseasoning. 

_White soups_ are made with light meats, and often with the addition ofmilk or cream. 

_Purées_ are merely thick soups strained carefully before serving, andmade usually of some vegetable which thickens in boiling, as beans, pease, &c, though there are several forms of fish _purées_ in which thefoundation is thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the wholethen rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular purée-sieve is not to behad. 

Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not thicken a soup, as, in browning it, the starchy portion has been destroyed; and it will nottherefore mix, but settles at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes abetter coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated cheese isoften served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese being used. Onions give abetter flavor if they are fried in a little butter or dripping beforeusing, and many professional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly. Cabbage and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water beforeadding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add only at the last moment, as boiling dissipates the flavor. Unless a thick vegetable soup isdesired, always strain into the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or anycereal may be used as thickening; the amounts required being found underthe different headings. Careful skimming, long boiling, and as carefulremoving of fat, will secure a broth especially desirable as a food forchildren and the old, but almost equally so for any age; while manyfragments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as savory andnutritious parts of the day's supply of food. 

 * * * * *

SOUPS. 

BEEP SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. 

For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock prepared beforehand, as already directed. If the stock is a jelly, as will usually be the casein winter, an amount sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be dilutedwith a pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to this one smallcarrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two onions, all chopped fine; acupful of chopped cabbage; two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice; andeither six fresh tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boilgently at least one hour; then add one saltspoonful each of pepper, curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has been salted properly, no morewill be needed; but tasting is essential to secure just the right flavors. Boil a few minutes longer, and serve without straining. 

This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the combinations ofvegetables may be varied indefinitely. A cup of chopped celery is anexceedingly nice addition, or, if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful ofcelery salt, or a saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be slicedthin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a little sugar isalways an improvement; in this case an even tablespoonful beingsufficient. If a thicker broth is desired, one heaped tablespoonful ofcorn-starch or flour may be first dissolved in a little cold water; then acup of the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added to thesoup and boiled for five minutes. 

CLEAR OR AMBER SOUP. 

This soup needs careful attention. It may be made of beef alone, but, ifdesired very rich for a special dinner, requires the addition of either achicken or a knuckle of veal. Allow, then, for the best soup, asoup-bone, --the shin of beef being most desirable, --weighing from two tothree pounds; a chicken; a slice of fat ham; two onions, each stuck withthree cloves; one small carrot and parsnip; one stalk of celery; onetablespoonful of salt; half a saltspoonful of pepper; and four quarts ofcold water. 

Cut all the meat from the beef bone in small pieces; slice the onions; frythe ham (or, if preferred, a thick slice of salt pork weighing not lessthan two ounces); fry the onions a bright brown in this fat; add thepieces of beef, and brown them also. Now put all the materials, bonesincluded, into the soup-kettle; add the cold water, and let it verygradually come to a boil. Skim with the utmost care, and then boil slowlyand steadily for not less than five hours, six or even seven beingpreferable. Strain, and set in a cold place. Next day remove the fat, andput the soup on the fire one hour before it will be wanted. Break thewhite and shell of an egg into a bowl; add a spoonful of cold water, andbeat a moment; add a little of the hot soup, that the white may mix morethoroughly with the soup, and then pour it into the kettle. Let all boilslowly for ten minutes; then strain, either through a jelly-bag, orthrough a thick cloth laid in a sieve or colander. Do not stir, as thiswould cloud the soup; and, if not clear and sparkling, strain again. Return to the fire, and heat to boiling-point, putting a lemon cut in thinslices, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, into the tureen before serving. A poached egg, or a boiled egg from which the shell has been peeled, isoften served with each plate of this soup, which must be clear to deserveits name. 

WHITE SOUP. 

Veal or chicken must be used for this soup; and the stock must always beprepared the day beforehand, having been flavored with two chopped onionsand a cup of cut celery, or celery-seed and other seasoning, in theproportions already given. On the day it is to be used, heat a quart ofmilk; stir one tablespoonful of butter to a cream; add a heapingtablespoonful of flour or corn-starch, a saltspoonful of mace, and thesame amount of white pepper. Stir into the boiling milk, and add to thesoup. Let all boil a moment, and then pour into the tureen. Three eggs, beaten very light and stirred into the hot milk without boiling, make astill richer soup. The bones of cold roast chicken or turkey may be usedin this way; and the broth of any meat, if perfectly clear, can serve asfoundation, though veal or chicken is most delicate. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 

A calf's head is usually taken for this soup; but a set of calf's feet anda pound of lean veal answer equally well. In either case, boil the meat infour quarts of water for five hours, reducing the amount to two quarts, and treating as stock for clear soup. 

Remove all fat, and put on the fire next day, half an hour before dinner, seasoning it with a saltspoonful each of mace, powdered thyme, or sweetmarjoram and clove. Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a smallsaucepan; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir both till abright brown. Add soup till a smooth thickening is made, and pour it intothe soup-kettle. Cut about half a pound of the cold meat into small squarepieces, --_dice_ they are called, --and put into the tureen. Make forcemeatballs by chopping a large cup of meat very fine; season with asaltspoonful each of pepper and thyme; mix in the yolk of a raw egg; makeinto little balls the size of a hickory-nut, and fry brown in a littlebutter. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the tureen with (orwithout) a wine-glass of sherry. Pour in the soup, and serve. If egg-ballsare desired, make them of the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine. Add the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a saltspoonof salt and half a one of pepper, and flour enough to make a dough whichcan be easily handled. Roll out; cut into little dice, and make each intoa ball by rolling between the palms of the hands. Boil five minutes in thesoup. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

Prepare and boil as directed for stock. The broth from a boiled leg ofmutton can be used, or any cheap pieces and trimmings from chops. Onesmall turnip and an onion will give flavoring enough. On the day it is tobe used, add to two quarts of broth half a cup of rice, and boil for halfan hour. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

Even an old fowl which is unusable in any other way makes excellent broth. Prepare as in any stock, and, when used, add a tablespoonful of rice toeach quart of broth, boiling till tender. A white soup will be found themost savory mode of preparation, the plain broth with rice being best forchildren and invalids. 

TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. 

Materials for this soup are: one large can, or twelve fresh tomatoes; onequart of boiling water; two onions; a small carrot; half a small turnip;two or three sprigs of parsley, or a stalk of celery, --all cut fine, andboiled one hour. As the water boils away, add more to it, so that thequantity may remain the same. Season with one even tablespoonful each ofsalt and sugar, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cream a tablespoonful ofbutter with two heaping ones of flour, and add hot soup till it will poureasily. Pour into the soup; boil all together for five minutes; thenstrain through a sieve, and serve with toasted crackers or bread. 

HASTY TOMATO SOUP. 

Simple but excellent. One large can of tomatoes and one pint of waterbrought to the boiling-point, and rubbed through a sieve. Return to thefire. Add half a teaspoonful of soda, and stir till it stops foaming. Season with one even tablespoonful of salt, two of sugar, onesaltspoonful of cayenne. Thicken with two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a cream, with hot soup added till it pourseasily. Boil a pint of milk separately, and, when ready to use, pour intothe boiling tomato, and serve at once, as standing long makes the milkliable to curdle. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

Two quarts of perfectly fresh oysters. Strain off the juice, and add anequal amount of water, or, if they are solid, add one pint of water, andthen strain and boil. Skim carefully. Add to one quart of milk onetablespoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and, ifthickening is liked, use same proportions as in hasty tomato soup, and setto boil. When the milk boils, put in the oysters. The moment the edgescurl a little, which will be when they have boiled one minute, they aredone, and should be served at once. Longer boiling toughens and spoilsthem. This rule may be used also for stewed oysters, omitting thethickening; or they may be put simply into the boiling juice, with thesame proportions of butter, salt, and pepper, and cooked the same lengthof time. 

CLAM SOUP. 

Fifty clams (hard or soft), boiled in a quart of water one hour. Take out, and chop fine. Add one quart of milk, half a teaspoonful of pepper, andone teaspoonful of salt. It will be necessary to taste, however, as someclams are salter than others. Rub one tablespoonful of butter to a creamwith two of flour, and use as thickening. Add the chopped clams, and boilfive minutes. If the clams are disliked, simply strain through a sieve, or cut off the hard part and use the soft only. 

PURÉE, OF FISH, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

One pound of fresh boiled salmon, or one small can of the sealed. 

Pick out all bone and skin, and, if the canned is used, pour off everydrop of oil. Shred it as fine as possible. Boil one quart of milk, seasoning with one teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful each of maceand white pepper, increasing the amount slightly if more is liked. Thickenwith two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a cream, with a cup of boiling water; add thickening and salmon, and boil twominutes. Strain into the tureen through a purée sieve, rubbing as much aspossible of the salmon through with a potato-masher, and _serve very hot_. All that will not go through can be mixed with an equal amount ofcracker-crumbs or mashed potato, made into small cakes or rolls, and friedin a little butter for breakfast, or treated as croquettes, and served atdinner. 

This thickened milk is the foundation for many forms of fish and vegetablepurées. A pint of green pease, boiled, mashed, and added; or asparagus orspinach in the same proportions can be used. _Lobster_ makes a purée asdelicious as that of salmon. Dry the "coral" in the oven; pound it fine, and add to the milk before straining, thus giving a clear pink color. Cutall the meat and green fat into dice, and put into the tureen, pouring thehot milk upon it. Boiled _cod_ or _halibut_ can be used; but nothing is sonice as the salmon, either fresh or canned. For a _Purée of Celery_ boilone pint of cut celery in water till tender; then add to boiling milk, and rub through the sieve. For _Potato Purée_ use six large or ten mediumsized potatoes, boiled and mashed fine; then stirred into the milk, andstrained; a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley being put in thetureen. For a _Green-Corn Soup_ use the milk without straining; adding acan of corn, or the corn cut from six ears of fresh boiled corn, and aneven tablespoonful of sugar, and boiling ten minutes. _Salsify_ can alsobe used, the combinations being numberless, and one's own taste a safeguide in making new ones. 

TURTLE-BEAN SOUP. 

Wash and soak over-night, in cold water, one pint of the black or turtlebeans. In the morning put on the fire in three quarts of cold water, which, as it boils away, must be added to, to preserve the originalquantity. Add quarter of a pound of salt pork and half a pound of leanbeef; one carrot and two onions cut fine; one tablespoonful of salt; onesaltspoonful of cayenne. Cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Rubthrough a colander, having first put in the tureen three hard-boiled eggscut in slices, one lemon sliced thin, and half a glass of wine. This soupis often served with small sausages which have been boiled in it for tenminutes, and then skinned, and used either whole or cut in bits. Coldbaked beans can also be used, in which case the meat, eggs, and wine areomitted. 

PEA SOUP. 

One quart of dried pease, washed and soaked over-night; split pease arebest. In the morning put them on the fire with six quarts of cold water;half a pound of salt pork; one even tablespoonful of salt; onesaltspoonful of cayenne; and one teaspoonful of celery-seed. Fry till abright brown three onions cut small, and add to the pease; cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Strain through a colander, and, if notperfectly smooth, return to fire, and add a thickening made of one heapingteaspoonful of flour and an even one of butter, stirred together with alittle hot water and boiled five minutes. Beans can be used in preciselythe same way; and both bean and pea soups are nicer served with_croutons_, or a thick slice of bread cut in dice, and fried brown andcrisp, or simply browned in the oven, and put into the tureen at themoment of serving. 

ONION SOUP. 

Take three large onions, slice them very thin, and then fry to a brightbrown in a large spoonful of either butter or stock-fat, the latteranswering equally well. When brown, add half a teacupful of flour, andstir constantly until red. Then pour in slowly one pint of boiling water, stirring steadily till it is all in. Boil and mash fine four largepotatoes, and stir into one quart of boiling milk, taking care that thereare no lumps. Add this to the fried onions, with one teaspoonful of saltand half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Let all boil for five minutes, andthen serve with toasted or fried bread. Simple as this seems, it is one ofthe best of the vegetable soups, though it is made richer by the use ofstock instead of water. 

BROWNED FLOUR FOR SOUPS. 

Put a pint of sifted flour into a perfectly clean frying-pan, and stir andturn constantly as it darkens, till the whole is an even dark brown. Ifscorched at all, it is ruined, and should not be used for any purpose. Asa coloring for soups and gravies it is by no means as good as caramel orburned sugar. 

CARAMEL. 

Half a pound of brown sugar; one tablespoonful of water. Put into afrying-pan, and stir steadily over the fire till it becomes a deep darkbrown in color. Then add one cup of boiling water and one teaspoonful ofsalt. Boil a minute longer, bottle, and keep corked. One tablespoonfulwill color a clear soup, and it can be used for many jellies, gravies, andsauces. 

 * * * * *

FISH. 

The most essential point in choosing fish is their _freshness_, and thisis determined as follows: if the gills are red, the eyes prominent andfull, and the whole fish stiff, they are good; but if the eyes are sunken, the gills pale, and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and, though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor of afreshly-caught fish. 

The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in cleaning. If thisis properly done, one washing will be sufficient: the custom of allowingfresh fish to lie in water after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor. 

Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a muddy taste andsmell. To get rid of this, soak in water strongly salted; say, a cupful ofsalt to a gallon of water, letting it heat gradually in this, and boilingit for one minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking. 

All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with the exception ofsalmon, which loses its color unless put into boiling water. Atablespoonful each of salt and vinegar to every two quarts of waterimproves the flavor of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer. Allow ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and testwith a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in easily, the fish canbe taken off. If a fish-kettle with strainer is used, the fish can belifted out without danger of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughlydredged with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In allcases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded napkin laid uponthe platter. 

In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be _immersed_ in the hotlard or drippings. Small fish can be fried whole; larger ones boned, andcut in small pieces. If they are egged and crumbed, the _egg_ will form acovering, hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat. 

Pan-fish, as they are called, --flounders and small fish generally, --canalso be fried by rolling in Indian meal or flour, and browning in the fatof salt pork. 

Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly. 

Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing as in the rule tobe given, or by warming again in a little butter and water. Cold fried orbroiled fish, can be put in a pan, and set in the oven till hot, thisrequiring not over ten minutes; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste, which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are always served withfish where used as a dinner-course. If fish is boiled whole, do not cutoff either tail or head. The tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked;or a large fish may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading atrussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then passing theneedle through the middle of the body, drawing the string tight andfastening it around the tail. 

BAKED FISH. 

Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c. , can be cooked in this way:--

See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in salted water, andwipe dry. For stuffing for a fish weighing from four to six pounds, takefour large crackers, or four ounces of bread-crumbs; quarter of a pound ofsalt pork; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; atablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoonful of thyme. Chop half thepork fine, and mix with the crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hotwater to mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dressing intothe body of the fish, which is then to be fastened together with a skewer. Cut the remainder of the pork in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cutacross the back of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly withflour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking-sheet in thebottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not be easily taken up. Laythe fish on this; pour a cup of boiling water into the pan, and bake in ahot oven for one hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack;and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, repeating thisevery ten minutes till the fish is done. If the water dries away, addenough to preserve the original quantity. When the fish is done, slide itcarefully from the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan ontop of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter of a cup of coldwater, and stir into the boiling gravy. A tablespoonful of walnut ormushroom catchup, or of Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked. _Serve very hot. _

Before sending a baked fish to table, take out the skewer. When done, itshould have a handsome brown crust. If pork is disliked, it may be omittedaltogether, and a tablespoonful of butter substituted in the stuffing. Basting should be done as often as once in ten minutes, else the skin willblister and crack. Where the fish is large, it will be better to sew thebody together after stuffing, rather than to use a skewer. The string canbe cut and removed before serving. 

If any is left, it can be warmed in the remains of the gravy, or, if thishas been used, make a gravy of one cup of hot water, thickened with oneteaspoonful of flour or corn-starch stirred smooth first in a little coldwater. Add a tablespoonful of butter and any catchup or sauce desired. Take all bones from the fish; break it up in small pieces, and stew notover five minutes in the gravy. Or it can be mixed with an equal amount ofmashed potato or bread-crumbs, a cup of milk and an egg added, with ateaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and baked untilbrown--about fifteen minutes--in a hot oven. 

TO BOIL FISH. 

General directions have already been given. All fish must boil _very_gently, or the outside will break before the inside is done. In all casessalt and a little vinegar, a teaspoonful each, are allowed to each quartof water. Where the fish has very little flavor, Dubois' receipt forboiling will be found exceedingly nice, and much less trouble than thename applied by professional cooks to this method--_au courtbouillon_--would indicate. It is as follows:--

Mince a carrot, an onion, and one stalk of celery, and fry them in alittle butter. Add two or three sprigs of parsley, two tablespoonfuls ofsalt, six pepper-corns, and three cloves. Pour on two quarts of boilingwater and one pint of vinegar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim as itboils, and use, when cold, for boiling the fish. Wine can be used insteadof vinegar; and, by straining carefully and keeping in a cold place, thesame mixture can be used several times. 

TO BROIL FISH. 

If the fish is large, it should be split, in order to insure its beingcooked through; though notches may be cut at equal distances, so that theheat can penetrate. Small fish may be broiled whole. The gridiron shouldbe well greased with dripping or olive oil. If a double-wire gridiron isused, there will be no trouble in turning either large or small fish. If asingle-wire or old-fashioned iron one, the best way is to first loosenwith a knife any part that sticks; then, holding a platter over the fishwith one hand, turn the gridiron with the other, and the fish can then bereturned to it without breaking. 

Small fish require a hot, clear fire; large ones, a more moderate one, that the outside may not be burned before the inside is done. Cook alwayswith the _skin-side_ down at first, and broil to a golden brown, --thisrequiring, for small fish, ten minutes; for large ones, from ten totwenty, according to size. When done, pepper and salt lightly; and to atwo-pound fish allow a tablespoonful of butter spread over it. Set thefish in the oven a moment, that the butter may soak in, and then serve. Ateaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half a lemon squeezed over shad or anyfresh fish, is a very nice addition. Where butter, lemon, and parsley areblended beforehand, it makes the sauce known as _maître d'hôtel_ sauce, which is especially good for broiled shad. 

In broiling steaks or cutlets of large fish, --say, salmon, halibut, freshcod, &c. , --the same general directions apply. Where very delicate broilingis desired, the pieces of fish can be wrapped in buttered paper beforelaying on the gridiron; this applying particularly to salmon. 

TO FRY FISH. 

Small fish--such as trout, perch, smelts, &c. --may simply be rolled inIndian meal or flour, and fried either in the fat of salt pork, or inboiling lard or drippings. A nicer method, however, with fish, whethersmall or in slices, is to dip them first in flour or fine crumbs, then inbeaten egg, --one egg, with two tablespoonfuls of cold water and half ateaspoonful of salt, being enough for two dozen smelts; then rolling againin crumbs or meal, and dropping into hot lard. The egg hardens instantly, and not a drop of fat can penetrate the inside. Fry to a golden brown. Take out with a skimmer; lay in the oven on a double brown paper for amoment, and then serve. 

_Filets_ of fish are merely flounders, or any flat fish with few bones, boned, skinned, and cut in small pieces; then egged and fried. 

To bone a fish of this sort, use a very sharp knife. The fish should havebeen scaled, but not cleaned or cut open. Make a cut down the back fromhead to tail. Now, holding the knife pressed close to the bone, cutcarefully till the fish is free on one side; then turn, and cut away theother. To skin, take half the fish at a time firmly in one hand; hold theblade of the knife flat as in boning, and run it slowly between skin andflesh. Cut the fish in small diamond-shaped pieces; egg, crumb, and putinto shape with the knife; and then fry. The operation is less troublesomethan it sounds, and the result most satisfactory. 

The _bones and trimmings_ remaining can either be stewed in a pint ofwater till done, adding half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful ofpepper, and a tablespoonful of catchup; straining the gravy off, andthickening with one heaping teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a littlecold water: or they can be broiled. For broiled bones, mix onesaltspoonful of mustard, as much cayenne as could be taken up on the pointof a penknife, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Atablespoonful of olive-oil may be added, if liked. Lay the bone in this, turning it till all is absorbed; broil over a quick fire; and _serve veryhot_. 

Fish may also be fried in batter (p. 182), or these pieces, or _filets_, may be laid on a buttered dish; a simple drawn butter or cream sauce (p. 182) poured over them; the whole covered with rolled bread orcracker-crumbs, dotted with bits of butter, and baked half an hour. A cupof canned mushrooms is often added. 

TO STEW FISH. 

Any fresh-water fish is good, cooked in this way; cat-fish which have beensoaked in salted water, to take away the muddy taste, being especiallynice. Cut the fish in small pieces. Boil two sliced onions in a cup ofwater. Pour off this water; add another cup, and two tablespoonfuls ofwine, a saltspoonful of pepper, and salt to taste (about half ateaspoonful). Put in the fish, and cook for twenty minutes. Thicken thegravy with a heaping teaspoonful of flour, rubbed to a cream with ateaspoonful of butter. If wine is not used, add a sprig of chopped parsleyand the juice of half a lemon. 

These methods will be found sufficient for all fresh fish, no otherspecial rules being necessary. Experience and individual taste will guidetheir application. If the fish is oily, as in the case of mackerel orherring, broiling will always be better than frying. If fried, let it bewith very little fat, as their own oil will furnish part. 

TO BOIL SALT CODFISH. 

The large, white cod, which cuts into firm, solid slices, should be used. If properly prepared, there is no need of the strong smell, which makes itso offensive to many, and which comes only in boiling. The fish is now tobe had boned, and put up in small boxes, and this is by far the mostdesirable form. In either case, lay in tepid water _skin-side up_, andsoak all night. If the skin is down, the salt, instead of soaking out, settles against it, and is retained. Change the water in the morning, andsoak two or three hours longer; then, after scraping and cleaningthoroughly, put in a kettle with tepid water enough to well cover it, andset it where it will heat to the scalding-point, but _not boil_. Keep itat this point, but never let it boil a moment. Let it cook in this way anhour: two will do no harm. Remove every particle of bone and dark skinbefore serving, sending it to table in delicate pieces, none of whichneed be rejected. With egg sauce (p. 169), mashed or mealy boiledpotatoes, and sugar-beets, this makes the New-England "fish dinner" athing of terror when poorly prepared, but both savory and delicate wherethe above rule is closely followed. 

Fish-balls, and all the various modes of using salted cod, require thispreparation beforehand. 

SALT COD WITH CREAM. 

Flake two pounds of cold boiled salt cod very fine. Boil one pint of milk. Mix butter the size of a small egg with two tablespoonfuls of flour, andstir into it. Add a few sprigs of parsley or half an onion minced veryfine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Butter aquart pudding-dish. Put in alternate layers of dressing and fish tillnearly full. Cover the top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot withbits of butter, and brown in a quick oven about twenty minutes. The fishmay be mixed with an equal part of mashed potato, and baked; and not onlycodfish, but any boiled _fresh_ fish, can be used, in which case doublethe measure of salt given will be required. 

SPICED FISH. 

Any remains of cold fresh fish may be used. Take out all bones or bits ofskin. Lay in a deep dish, and barely cover with hot vinegar in which a fewcloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. 

POTTED FISH. 

Fresh herring or mackerel or shad may be used. Skin the fish, and cut insmall pieces, packing them in a small stone jar. Just cover with vinegar. For six pounds of fish allow one tablespoonful of salt, and a dozen eachof whole allspice, cloves, and pepper-corns. Tie a thick paper over thetop of the cover, and bake five hours. The vinegar dissolves the bonesperfectly, and the fish is an excellent relish at supper. 

FISH CHOWDER. 

Three pounds of any sort of fresh fish may be taken; but fresh cod isalways best. Six large potatoes and two onions, with half a pound of saltpork. 

Cut the pork into dice, and fry to a light brown. Add the onions, andbrown them also. Pour the remaining fat into a large saucepan, or butterit, as preferred. Put in a layer of potatoes, a little onion and pork, anda layer of the fish cut in small pieces, salting and peppering each layer. A tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper will be a mildseasoning. A pinch of cayenne may be added, if liked. Barely cover withboiling water, and boil for half an hour. In the meantime boil a pint ofmilk, and, when at boiling-point, break into it three ship biscuit or halfa dozen large crackers; add a heaping tablespoonful of butter. Put thechowder in a platter, and pile the softened crackers on top, pouring themilk over all. Or the milk may be poured directly into the chowder; thecrackers laid in, and softened in the steam; and the whole served in atureen. Three or four tomatoes are sometimes added. In clam chowder thesame rule would be followed, substituting one hundred clams for the fish, and using a small can of tomatoes if fresh ones were not in season. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

The rule already given for _oyster soup_ is an excellent one, omitting thethickening. A simpler one is to strain the juice from a quart of oysters, and add an equal amount of water. Bring it to boiling-point; skimcarefully; season with salt to taste, this depending on the saltness ofthe oysters, half a teaspoonful being probably enough. Add a saltspoonfulof pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cup of milk. The milk may beomitted, if preferred. Add the oysters. Boil till the edges curl, and nolonger. Serve at once, as they toughen by standing. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Choose large oysters, and drain thoroughly in a colander. Dry in a towel. Dip first in sifted cracker-crumbs; then in egg, one egg beaten with alarge spoonful of cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and asaltspoonful of pepper, being enough for two dozen oysters. Roll again incrumbs, and drop into boiling lard. If a wire frying-basket is used, laythem in this. Fry to a light brown. Lay them on brown paper a moment todrain, and serve at once on a _hot platter_. As they require hardly morethan a minute to cook, it is better to wait till all are at the tablebefore beginning to fry. Oysters are very good, merely fried in a littlehot butter; but the first method preserves their flavor best. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

One quart of oysters; one large breakfast cup of cracker or bread crumbs, the crackers being nicer if freshly toasted and rolled hot; two largespoonfuls of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful ofpepper; one saltspoonful of mace. Mix the salt, pepper, and mace together. Butter a pudding-dish; heat the juice with the seasoning and butter, adding a teacup of milk or cream if it can be had, though water willanswer. Put alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, filling the dish inthis way. Pour the juice over, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Ifnot well browned, heat a shovel red-hot, and brown the top with that;longer baking toughening the oysters. 

OYSTERS FOR PIE OR PATTIES. 

One quart of oysters put on to boil in their own liquor. Turn them whileboiling into a colander to drain. Melt a piece of butter the size of anegg in the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and stir oneminute. Pour in the oyster liquor slowly, which must be not less than alarge cupful. Beat the yolks of two eggs thoroughly with a saltspoonful ofsalt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and one of mace. Add to the boilingliquor, but do not let it boil. Put in the oysters, and either use them tofill a pie, the form for which is already baked, for patties for dinner, or serve them on thin slices of buttered toast for breakfast or tea. 

SPICED OR PICKLED OYSTERS. 

To a gallon of large, fine oysters, allow one pint of cider or white-winevinegar; one tablespoonful of salt; one grated nutmeg; eight blades ofmace; three dozen cloves, and as many whole allspice; and a saltspoon evenfull of cayenne pepper. Strain the oyster juice, and bring to theboiling-point in a porcelain-lined kettle. Skim carefully as it boils up. Add the vinegar, and skim also, throwing in the spices and salt when ithas boiled a moment. Boil all together for five minutes, and then pourover the oysters, adding a lemon cut in very thin slices. They are readyfor the table next day, but will keep a fortnight or more in a cold place. If a sharp pickle is desired, use a quart instead of a pint of vinegar. 

SMOTHERED OYSTERS (_Maryland fashion_). 

Drain all the juice from a quart of oysters. Melt in a frying-pan a pieceof butter the size of an egg, with as much cayenne pepper as can be takenup on the point of a penknife, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put in theoysters, and cover closely. They are done as soon as the edges ruffle. Serve on thin slices of buttered toast as a breakfast or supper dish. Aglass of sherry is often added. 

OYSTER OR CLAM FRITTERS. 

Chop twenty-five clams or oysters fine, and mix them with a batter made asfollows: One pint of flour, in which has been sifted one heapingteaspoonful of baking-powder and half a teaspoonful of salt; one large cupof milk, and two eggs well beaten. Stir eggs and milk together; add theflour slowly; and, last, the clams or oysters. Drop by spoonfuls intoboiling lard. Fry to a golden brown, and serve at once; or they may befried like pancakes in a little hot fat. Whole clams or oysters may beused instead of chopped ones, and fried singly. 

TO BOIL LOBSTERS OR CRABS. 

Be sure that the lobster is alive, as, if dead, it will not be fit to use. Have water boiling in a large kettle, and, holding the lobster or crab bythe back, drop it in head foremost; the reason for this being, that theanimal dies instantly when put in in this way. An hour is required for amedium-sized lobster, the shell turning red when done. When cold, the meatcan be used either plain or in salad, or cooked in various ways. Acan-opener will be found very convenient in opening a lobster. 

STEWED OR CURRIED LOBSTER. 

Cut the meat into small bits, and add the green fat, and the coral whichis found only in the hen-lobster. Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful ofbutter and a heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir smoothly together, adding slowly one large cup of either stock or milk, a saltspoonful ofmace, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put inthe lobster, and cook for ten minutes. For curry, simply add oneteaspoonful of curry-powder. This stewed lobster may also be put in theshell of the back, which has been cleaned and washed, bread or crackercrumbs sprinkled over it, and browned in the oven; or it may be treated asa scallop, buttering a dish, and putting in alternate layers of crumbs andlobster, ending with crumbs. Crabs, though more troublesome to extractfrom the shell, are almost equally good, treated in any of the ways given. 

 * * * * *

MEATS. 

The qualities and characteristics of meats have already been spoken of inPart I. , and it is necessary here to give only a few simple rules formarketing. 

The best BEEF is of a clear red color, slightly marbled with fat, and thefat itself of a clear white. Where the beef is dark red or bluish, and thefat yellow, it is too old, or too poorly fed, to be good. The sirloin andribs, especially the sixth, seventh, and eighth, make the bestroasting-pieces. The ribs can be removed and used for stock, and the beefrolled or skewered firmly, making a piece very easily carved, and almostas presentable the second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearlyas good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which gives only asmall eatable portion, the remainder being only fit for the stock-pot. Ifthe beef be very young and tender, steaks from the round may be used; butthese are usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking are givenunder their respective heads. 

MUTTON should be a light, clear red, and the fat very white and firm. Itis always improved by keeping, and in cold weather can be hung for amonth, if carefully watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treatedin this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the fat is deepyellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is too old; and no keeping willmake it really good eating. Four years is considered the best age forprime mutton. 

VEAL also must have clear white fat, and should be fine in grain. If thekidney is covered with firm white fat, it indicates health, and the meatis good; if yellow, it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loinand fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, the breastcoming next, and the neck and ribs being good for stewing and fricassees. 

PORK should have fine, white fat, and the meat should be white and smooth. Only country-fed pork should ever be eaten, the pig even then beingliable to diseases unknown to other animals, and the meat, even whencarefully fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. _Bacon_, carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most wholesome form. 

POULTRY come last. The best _Turkeys_ have black legs; and, if young, thetoes and bill are soft and pliable. The combs of fowls should be brightcolored, and the legs smooth. 

_Geese_, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have white soft fat, and yellow feet. 

_Ducks_ are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are firm and thick onthe breast. 

_Pigeons_ should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet elastic. Onlyexperience can make one familiar with other signs; and a good butcher canusually be trusted to tide one over the season of inexperience, though thesooner it ends the better for all parties concerned. 

BOILED MEATS AND STEWS. 

All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at table must be put into_boiling water_, thus following an entirely opposite rule from thoseintended for soups. In the latter, the object being to extract all thejuice, cold water must always be used first, and then heated with the meatin. In the former, all the juice is to be kept in; and, by putting intoboiling water, the albumen of the meat hardens on the surface and makes acase or coating for the meat, which accomplishes this end. Where somethingbetween a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as in _beef bouilli_, themeat is put on in cold water, which is brought to a boil _very quickly_, thus securing good gravy, yet not robbing the meat of all its juices. With corned or salted meats, tongue, &c. , cold water must be used, andhalf an hour to the pound allowed. If to be eaten cold, such meats shouldalways be allowed to cool in the water in which they were boiled; and thiswater, if not too salt, can be used for dried bean or pea soups. 

BEEF À LA MODE. 

Six or eight pounds of beef from the round, cut thick. Take out the bone, trim off all rough bits carefully, and rub the meat well with thefollowing spicing: One teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, quarter of a cup of brown sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Mix theseall together, and rub thoroughly into the beef, which must standover-night. 

Next morning make a stuffing of one pint of bread or cracker crumbs; onelarge onion chopped fine; a tablespoonful of sweet marjoram or thyme; halfa teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, and a heaping teaspoonfulof salt. Add a large cup of hot water, in which has been melted a heapingtablespoonful of butter, and stir into the crumbs. Beat an egg light, andmix with it. If there is more than needed to fill the hole, make gashes inthe meat, and stuff with the remainder. Now bind into shape with a stripof cotton cloth, sewing or tying it firmly. Put a trivet or small ironstand into a soup-pot, and lay the beef upon it. Half cover it with coldwater; put in two onions stuck with three cloves each, a largetablespoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper; and stew veryslowly, allowing half an hour to the pound, and turning the meat twicewhile cooking. At the end of this time take off the cloth, and put themeat, which must remain on the trivet, in a roasting-pan. Dredge itquickly with flour, set into a hot oven, and brown thoroughly. Baste oncewith the gravy, and dredge again, the whole operation requiring about halfan hour. The water in the pot should have been reduced to about a pint. Pour this into the roasting-pan after the meat is taken up, skimming offevery particle of fat. Thicken with a heaping tablespoonful of brownedflour, stirred smooth in a little cold water, and add a tablespoonful ofcatchup and two of wine, if desired, though neither is necessary. Taste, as a little more salt may be required. 

The thick part of a leg of veal may be treated in the same manner, bothbeing good either hot or cold; and a round of beef may be also usedwithout spicing or stuffing, and browned in the same way, the remainsbeing either warmed in the gravy or used for hashes or croquettes. 

BEEF À LA MODE (_Virginia fashion_). 

Use the round, as in the foregoing receipt, and remove the bone; and foreight pounds allow half a pint of good vinegar; one large onion mincedfine; half a teaspoonful each of mustard, black pepper, clove, andallspice; and two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Cut half a pound of fatsalt pork into lardoons, or strips, two or three inches long and abouthalf an inch square. Boil the vinegar with the onion and seasoning, andpour over the strips of pork, and let them stand till cold. Then pour offthe liquor, and thicken it with bread or cracker crumbs. Make incisions inthe beef at regular intervals, --a carving-steel being very good for thispurpose, --and push in the strips of pork. Fill the hole from which thebone was taken with the rest of the pork and the dressing, and tie thebeef firmly into shape. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping or lard in afrying-pan, and brown the meat on all sides. This will take about half anhour. Now put the meat on a trivet in the kettle; half cover with boilingwater; and add a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, an onionand a small carrot cut fine, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Cook veryslowly, allowing half an hour to a pound, and make gravy by the directionsgiven for it in the preceding receipt. 

_Braised beef_ is prepared by either method given here for _à la mode_beef, but cooked in a covered iron pan, which comes for the purpose, andwhich is good also for beef _à la mode_, or for any tough meat whichrequires long cooking, and is made tenderer by keeping in all the steam. 

BOILED MUTTON. 

A _shoulder_, or _fore-quarter_, of mutton, weighing five or six pounds, will boil in an hour, as it is so thin. The _leg_, or _hind-quarter_, requires twenty minutes to the pound; though, if very young and tender, itwill do in less. It can be tried with a knitting-needle to see if it istender. It is made whiter and more delicate by boiling in a cloth, butshould be served without it. Boil in well-salted water according to therule already given. Boiled or mashed turnips are usually served with it, and either drawn butter or caper sauce as on p. 169. 

_Lamb_ may be boiled in the same manner, but is better roasted; and soalso with _veal_. 

BOILED CORNED BEEF. 

If to be eaten hot, the _round_ is the best piece. If cold and pressed, what are called "_plate pieces_"--that is, the brisket, the flank, andthe thin part of the ribs--may be used. Wash, and put into cold water, allowing half an hour to a pound after it begins to boil. If to be eatencold, let it stand in the water till nearly cold, as this makes it richer. Take out all bones from a thin piece; wrap in a cloth, and put upon alarge platter. Lay a tin sheet over it, and set on a heavyweight, --flat-irons will do, --and let it stand over-night. Or the meat maybe picked apart with a knife and fork; the fat and lean evenly mixed andpacked into a pan, into which a smaller pan is set on top of the meat, andthe weight in this. Thus marbled slices may be had. All corned beef isimproved by pressing, and all trimmings from it can be used in hash orcroquettes. 

BOILED TONGUE. 

Smoked tongue will be found much better than either fresh or pickledtongues. 

Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold water, and boilsteadily four hours. Then take out; peel off the skin, and return to thewater to cool. Cut in _lengthwise_ slices, as this makes it tenderer. Theroot of the tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like deviled ham(p. 265). 

BOILED HAM. 

Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large ones. A brushshould be kept to scrub them with, as it is impossible to get them cleanwithout it. Soak over-night in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape, and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. Put on to boilin cold water. Let it heat very gradually. Allow half an hour to thepound. When done, take from the water, skin, and return, letting it remaintill cold. Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle with afrill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether eaten hot or cold, ifcovered with bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven. The fat isuseless, save for soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices throughthe middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. 265). A _leg of pork_which has simply been corned is boiled in the same way as ham, soakingover-night, and browning in the oven or not, as liked. 

IRISH STEW. 

This may be made of either beef or mutton, though mutton is generallyused. Reject all bones, and trim off all fat and gristle, reserving thesefor the stock-pot. Cut the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square, and cover with cold water. Skim carefully as it boils up, and see that thewater is kept at the same level by adding as it boils away. For two poundsof meat allow two sliced onions, eight good-sized potatoes, twoteaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, andcook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of flourstirred smooth in a little cold water, and serve very hot. The trimmingsfrom a fore-quarter of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving awell-shaped roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized carrotcut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew would be called by aFrench cook a _ragoût_, and can be made of any pieces of meat or poultry. 

WHITE STEW, OR FRICASSEE. 

Use _veal_ for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of meat, and thesame proportions of salt and pepper as in the preceding receipt, adding asaltspoonful of mace. Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonfulof flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg, and onecup of hot milk added just at the last. A cauliflower nicely boiled, cutup, and stewed with it a moment, is very nice. 

This stew becomes a _pot-pie_ by making a nice biscuit-crust, as on p. 164; cutting it out in rounds, and laying in the kettle half an hourbefore the stew is done. Cover closely, and do not turn them. Lay them, when done, around the edge of the platter; pile the meat in the centre, and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten eggs are sometimes added, and it is then called a _blanquette_ of veal. 

BROWN STEW OR FRICASSEE. 

To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, and browned on eachside in a little hot dripping; or, if preferred, quarter of a pound ofpork is cut in thin slices and fried crisp, the fat from it being used forbrowning. Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, anyvegetables liked can be added; a fricassee never containing them, havingonly meat and a gravy, thickened with browned flour and seasoned in theproportions already given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with abeef stew, and a glass of wine added; this making a _ragoût withmushrooms_. The countless receipts one sees in large cook-books forragoûts and fricassees are merely variations in the flavoring of simplestews; and, after a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own, remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as carrots) belongespecially to dark meats, and the more delicate ones to light. Fresh porkis sometimes used in a white fricassee, in which case a little powderedsage is better than mace as a seasoning. 

_Curries_ can be made by adding a heaping teaspoonful of curry-powder to abrown fricassee, and serving with boiled rice; put the rice around theedge of the platter, and pour the curry in the middle. Chicken makes thebest curry; but veal is very good. In a genuine East-Indian curry, lemon-juice and grated cocoa-nut are added; but it is an unwholesomecombination. 

BEEF ROLLS. 

Two pounds of steak from the round, cut in very thin slices. Trim off allfat and gristle, and cut into pieces about four inches square. Now cut_very thin_ as many slices of salt pork as you have slices of steak, making them a little smaller. Mix together one teaspoonful of salt and oneof thyme or summer savory, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Lay the pork ona square of steak; sprinkle with the seasoning; roll up tightly, and tie. When all are tied, put the bits of fat and trimmings into a hotfrying-pan, and add a tablespoonful of drippings. Lay in the rolls, andbrown on all sides, which will require about ten minutes; then put them ina saucepan. Add to the fat in the pan a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir till a bright brown. Pour in gradually one quart of boilingwater, and then strain it over the beef rolls. Cover closely, and cook twohours, or less if the steak is tender, stirring now and then to preventscorching. Take off the strings before serving. These rolls can beprepared without the pork, and are very nice; or a whole beefsteak can beused, covering it with a dressing made as for stuffed veal, and thenrolling; tying at each end, browning, and stewing in the same way. Thiscan be eaten cold or hot; while the small rolls are much better hot. Ifwanted as a breakfast dish, they can be cooked the day beforehand, left inthe gravy, and simply heated through next morning. 

BRUNSWICK STEW. 

Two squirrels or small chickens; one quart of sliced tomatoes; one pint ofsweet corn; one pint of lima or butter beans; one quart of slicedpotatoes; two onions; half a pound of fat salt pork. 

Cut the pork in slices, and fry brown; cut the squirrels or chickens inpieces, and brown a little, adding the onion cut fine. Now put all thematerials in a soup-pot; cover with two quarts of boiling water, andseason with one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half ateaspoonful of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for four hours. Just beforeserving, cream a large spoonful of butter with a heaping tablespoonful offlour; thin with the broth, and pour in, letting all cook five minuteslonger. To be eaten in soup-plates. 

ROASTED MEATS. 

Our roasted meats are really _baked_ meats; but ovens are now so well madeand ventilated, that there is little difference of flavor in the twoprocesses. 

Allow ten minutes to the pound if the meat is liked rare, and from twelveto fifteen, if well done. It is always better to place the meat on atrivet or stand made to fit easily in the roasting-pan, so that it may notbecome sodden in the water used for gravy. Put into a hot oven, that thesurface may soon sear over and hold in the juices, enough of which willescape for the gravy. All rough bits should have been trimmed off, and ajoint of eight or ten pounds rubbed with a tablespoonful of salt. Dredgethickly with flour, and let it brown on the meat before basting it, whichmust be done as often as once in fifteen minutes. Pepper lightly. If thewater in the pan dries away, add enough to have a pint for gravy in theend. Dredge with flour at least twice, as this makes a crisp andrelishable outer crust. Take up the meat, when done, on a hot platter. Make the gravy in the roasting-pan, by setting it on top of the stove, andfirst scraping up all the browning from the corners and bottom. If thereis much fat, pour it carefully off. If the dredging has been well managedwhile roasting, the gravy will be thick enough. If not, stir a teaspoonfulof browned flour smooth in cold water, and add. Should the gravy be toolight, color with a teaspoonful of caramel, and taste to see that theseasoning is right. 

_Mutton_ requires fifteen minutes to the pound, unless preferred rare, inwhich case ten will be sufficient. If a tin kitchen is used, fifteenminutes for beef, and twenty for mutton, will be needed. 

STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON. 

Have the butcher take out the first joint in a leg of mutton; or it can bedone at home by using a very sharp, narrow-bladed knife, and holding itclose to the bone. Rub in a tablespoonful of salt, and then fill with adressing made as follows: One pint of fine bread or cracker crumbs, inwhich have been mixed dry one even tablespoonful of salt and one of summersavory or thyme, and one teaspoonful of pepper. Chop one onion very fine, and add to it, with one egg well beaten. Melt a piece of butter the sizeof an egg in a cup of hot water, and pour on the crumbs. If not enough tothoroughly moisten them, add a little more. Either fasten with a skewer, or sew up, and roast as in previous directions. Skim all the fat from thegravy, as the flavor of mutton-fat is never pleasant. A tablespoonful ofcurrant jelly may be put into the gravy-tureen, and the gravy strainedupon it. The meat must be basted, and dredged with flour, as carefully asbeef. Both the shoulder and saddle are roasted in the same way, butwithout stuffing; and the leg may be also, though used to more advantagewith one. 

Lamb requires less time; a leg weighing six pounds needing but one hour, or an hour and a quarter if roasted before an open fire. 

ROAST VEAL. 

Veal is so dry a meat, that a moist dressing is almost essential. Thisdressing may be made as in the previous receipt; or, instead of butter, quarter of a pound of salt pork can be chopped fine, and mixed with it. Ifthe loin is used, --and this is always best, --take out the bone to thefirst joint, and fill the hole with dressing, as in the leg of mutton. Inusing the breast, bone also, reserving the bones for stock; lay thedressing on it; roll, and tie securely. Baste often. Three or four thinslices of salt pork may be laid on the top; or, if this is not liked, melta tablespoonful of butter in a cup of hot water, and baste with that. Treat it as in directions for roasted meats, but allow a full half-hour tothe pound, and make the gravy as for beef. Cold veal makes so many nicedishes, that a large piece can always be used satisfactorily. 

ROAST PORK. 

Bone the leg as in mutton, and stuff; substituting sage for the sweetmarjoram, and using two onions instead of one. Allow half an hour to thepound, and make gravy as for roast beef. Spare-ribs are considered mostdelicate; and both are best eaten cold, the hot pork being rather gross, and, whether hot or cold, less digestible than any other meat. 

ROAST VENISON. 

In winter venison can be kept a month; and, in all cases, it should hangin a cold place at least a month before using. Allow half an hour to apound in roasting, and baste very often. Small squares of salt pork aresometimes inserted in incisions made here and there, and help to enrichthe gravy. In roasting a haunch it is usually covered with a thick pasteof flour and water, and a paper tied over this, not less than four hoursbeing required to roast it. At the end of three, remove the paper andpaste, dredge and baste till well browned. The last basting is with aglass of claret; and this, and half a small glass of currant jelly areadded to the gravy. Venison steaks are treated as in directions forbroiled meats. 

BAKED PORK AND BEANS. 

Pick over one quart of dried beans, what is known as "navy beans" beingthe best, and soak over-night in plenty of cold water. 

Turn off the water in the morning, and put on to boil in cold water tilltender, --at least one hour. An earthen pot is always best for this, as ashallow dish does not allow enough water to keep them from drying. Drainoff the water. Put the beans in the pot. Take half a pound of salt pork, fat and lean together being best. Score the skin in small squares with aknife, and bury it, all but the surface of this rind, in the beans. Coverthem completely with boiling water. Stir in one tablespoonful of salt, andtwo of good molasses. Cover, and bake slowly, --not less than fivehours, --renewing the water if it bakes away. Take off the cover an hourbefore they are done, that the pork may brown a little. If pork isdisliked, use a large spoonful of butter instead. Cold baked beans can bewarmed in a frying-pan with a little water, and are even better than atfirst, or they can be used in a soup as in directions given. A teaspoonfulof made mustard is sometimes stirred in, and gives an excellent flavor toa pot of baked beans. Double the quality if the family is large, as theykeep perfectly well in winter, the only season at which so hearty a dishis required, save for laborers. 

BROILED AND FRIED MEATS. 

If the steak is tender, never pound or chop it. If there is much fat, trimit off, or it will drop on the coals and smoke. If tough, as in thecountry is very likely to be the case, pounding becomes necessary, but abetter method is to use the chopping-knife; not chopping through, butgoing lightly over the whole surface. Broken as it may seem, it closes atonce on the application of a quick heat. 

The best _broiler_ is by all means a light wire one, which can be held inthe hand and turned quickly. The fire should be quick and hot. Place thesteak in the centre of the broiler, and hold it close to the coals aninstant on each side, letting both sear over before broiling reallybegins. 

Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch thick, ten minuteswill be sufficient to cook it rare, and fifteen will make it well done. Turn almost constantly, and, when done, serve at once on a _hot dish_. Never salt broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up atablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, turning thesteak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper lightly, and, if necessary tohave it stand at all, cover with an earthen dish, or stand in the openoven. _Chops_ and _cutlets_ are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry ameat that it is better fried. 

Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently done, the next bestmethod is to heat a frying-pan very hot; grease it with a bit of fat cutfrom the steak, just enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost asconstantly as in broiling, and season in the same way when done. Venisonsteaks are treated in the same manner. 

VEAL CUTLETS. 

Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use drippings instead, if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, which are best cut from the leg, be made as nearly of a size as possible; dip them in well-beaten egg andthen in cracker-crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the veal istough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen minutes beforefrying. 

PORK STEAK. 

Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and sprinkled with pepperand salt and a little powdered sage. Have the pan hot; put in atablespoonful of dripping, and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes, turning often. A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also, by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the pan, andstirring it till a bright brown, then adding a large cup of boiling water, and salt to taste; a saltspoonful being sufficient, with half the amountof pepper. 

Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in precisely thesame way, using a teaspoonful of powdered sage to two pounds of liver. 

FRIED HAM OR BACON. 

Cut the ham in very thin slices. Take off the rind, and, if the ham is oldor hard, parboil it for five minutes. Have the pan hot, and, unless theham is quite fat, use a teaspoonful of drippings. Turn the slices often, and cook from five to eight minutes. They can be served dry, or, if gravyis liked, add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stir till smooth, andpour in slowly a large cup of milk or water. Salt pork can be fried in thesame way. If eggs are to be fried with the ham, take up the slices, breakin the eggs, and dip the boiling fat over them as they fry. If there isnot fat enough, add half a cup of lard. To make each egg round, putmuffin-rings into the frying-pan, and break an egg into each, pouring theboiling fat over them from a spoon till done, which will be in from threeto five minutes. Serve one on each slice of ham, and make no gravy. Thefat can be strained, and used in frying potatoes. 

FRIED TRIPE. 

The tripe can be merely cut in squares, rolled in flour, salted andpeppered, and fried brown in drippings, or the pieces may be dipped in abatter made as for clam fritters, or egged and crumbed like oysters, andfried. In cities it can be bought already prepared. In the country it mustfirst be cleaned, and then boiled till tender. 

TO WARM COLD MEATS. 

Cold roast beef should be cut in slices, the gravy brought toboiling-point, and each slice dipped in just long enough to heat, asstewing in the gravy toughens it. Rare mutton is treated in the same way, but is nicer warmed in a chafing-dish at table, adding a tablespoonful ofcurrant jelly and one of wine to the gravy. Venison is served in the samemanner. Veal and pork can cook in the gravy without toughening, and sowith turkey and chicken. Cold duck or game is very nice warmed in the sameway as mutton, the bones in all cases being reserved for stock. 

 * * * * *

POULTRY. 

TO CLEAN POULTRY. 

First be very careful to singe off all down by holding over a blazingpaper, or a little alcohol burning in a saucer. Cut off the feet and endsof the wings, and the neck as far as it is dark. If the fowl is killed athome, be sure that the head is chopped off, and never allow the neck to bewrung as is often done. It is not only an unmerciful way of killing, butthe blood has thus no escape, and settles about all the vital organs. Thehead should be cut off, and the body hang and bleed thoroughly beforeusing. 

Pick out all the pin-feathers with the blade of a small knife. Turn backthe skin of the neck, loosening it with the finger and thumb, and draw outthe windpipe and crop, which can be done without making any cut. Now cut aslit in the lower part of the fowl, the best place being close to thethigh. By working the fingers in slowly, keeping them close to the body, the whole intestines can be removed in a mass. Be especially careful notto break the gall-bag, which is near the upper part of the breastbone, andattached to the liver. If this operation is carefully performed, it willbe by no means so disagreeable as it seems. A French cook simply wipes outthe inside, considering that much flavor is lost by washing. I prefer towash in one water, and dry quickly, though in the case of an old fowl, which often has a strong smell, it is better to dissolve a teaspoonful ofsoda in the first water, which should be warm, and wash again in cold, then wiping dry as possible. Split and wash the gizzard, reserving it forgravy. 

DRESSING FOR POULTRY. 

One pint of bread or cracker crumbs, into which mix dry one teaspoonful ofpepper, one of thyme or summer savory, one even tablespoonful of salt, and, if in season, a little chopped parsley. Melt a piece of butter thesize of an egg in one cup of boiling water, and mix with the crumbs, adding one or two well-beaten eggs. A slice of salt pork chopped fine isoften substituted for the butter. 

For _ducks_ two onions are chopped fine, and added to the above; or apotato dressing is made, as for geese, using six large boiled potatoes, mashed hot, and seasoned with an even tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonfuleach of sage and pepper, and two chopped onions. 

_Game_ is usually roasted unstuffed; but grouse and prairie-chickens mayhave the same dressing as chickens and turkeys, this being used also forboiled fowls. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

Prepare by cleaning, as in general directions above, and, when dry, rubthe inside with a teaspoonful of salt. Put the gizzard, heart, and liveron the fire in a small saucepan, with one quart of boiling water and oneteaspoonful of salt, and boil two hours. Put a little stuffing in thebreast, and fold back the skin of the neck, holding it with a stitch orwith a small skewer. Put the remainder in the body, and sew it up withdarning-cotton. Cross and tie the legs down tight, and run a skewerthrough the wings to fasten them to the body. Lay it in the roasting-pan, and for an eight-pound turkey allow not less than three hours' time, a tenor twelve pound one needing four. Put a pint of boiling water with oneteaspoonful of salt in the pan, and add to it as it dries away. Melt aheaping tablespoonful of butter in the water, and baste very often. Thesecret of a handsomely-browned turkey, lies in this frequent basting. Dredge over the flour two or three times, as in general roastingdirections, and turn the turkey so that all sides will be reached. Whendone, take up on a hot platter. Put the baking-pan on the stove, havingbefore this chopped the gizzard and heart fine, and mashed the liver, andput them in the gravy-tureen. Stir a tablespoonful of brown flour intothe gravy in the pan, scraping up all the brown, and add slowly the waterin which the giblets were boiled, which should be about a pint. Strain onto the chopped giblets, and taste to see if salt enough. The gravy for allroast poultry is made in this way. Serve with cranberry sauce or jelly. 

ROAST OR BOILED CHICKENS. 

Stuff and truss as with turkeys, and to a pair of chickens weighing twoand a half pounds each, allow one hour to roast, basting often, and makinga gravy as in preceding receipt. 

Boil as in rule for turkeys. 

ROAST DUCK. 

After cleaning, stuff as in rule given for poultry dressing, androast, --if game, half an hour; if tame, one hour, making gravy as indirections given, and serving with currant jelly. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

No fat save its own is needed in basting a goose, which, if large, requires two hours to roast. Skim off as much fat as possible beforemaking the gravy, as it has a strong taste. 

BIRDS. 

Small birds may simply be washed and wiped dry, tied firmly, and roastedtwenty minutes, dredging with flour, basting with butter and water, andadding a little currant jelly or wine to the gravy. They may be served ontoast. 

FRIED CHICKEN. 

Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving. Roll in flour, or, ifpreferred, in beaten egg and crumbs. Heat a cupful of nice dripping orlard; add a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; lay in thepieces, and fry brown on each side, allowing not less than twenty minutesfor the thickest pieces and ten for the thin ones. Lay on a hot platter, and make a gravy by adding one tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stirringsmooth, and adding slowly one cupful of boiling water or stock. Strainover the chicken. Milk or cream is often used instead of water. 

BROWN FRICASSEE. 

Fry one or two chickens as above, using only flour to roll them in. Threeor four slices of salt pork may be used, cutting them in bits, and fryingbrown, before putting in the chicken. When fried, lay the pieces in asaucepan, and cover with warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt and asaltspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and stew one hour, or longer if thechickens are old. Take up the pieces, and thicken the gravy with onetablespoonful of flour, first stirred smooth in a little cold water. Orthe flour may be added to the fat in the pan after frying, and waterenough for a thin gravy, which can all be poured into the saucepan, thoughwith this method there is more danger of burning. If not dark enough, color with a teaspoonful of caramel. By adding a chopped onion fried inthe fat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder, this becomes a curry, to beserved with boiled rice. 

WHITE FRICASSEE. 

Cut up the chicken as in brown fricassee, and stew without frying for anhour and a half, reducing the water to about one pint. Take up the chickenon a hot platter. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and adda heaping tablespoonful of flour, stirring constantly till smooth. Pour inslowly one cup of milk, and, as it boils and thickens, add the chickenbroth, and serve. This becomes a pot-pie by adding biscuit-crust as inrule for veal pot-pie, p. 150, and serving in the same way. The same crustmay also be used with a brown fricassee, but is most customary with awhite. 

CHICKEN PIE. 

Make a fricassee, as above directed, either brown or white, as best liked, and a nice pie-crust, as on p. 224, or a biscuit-crust if pie-crust isconsidered too rich. Line a deep baking-dish with the crust; a good waybeing to use a plain biscuit-crust for the lining, and pie-crust for thelid. Lay in the cooked chicken; fill up with the gravy, and cover withpastry, cutting a round hole in the centre; and bake about three-quartersof an hour. The top can be decorated with leaves made from pastry, and inthis case will need to have a buttered paper laid over it for the firsttwenty minutes, that they need not burn. Eat either cold or hot. Game piescan be made in the same way, and veal is a very good substitute forchicken. Where veal is used, a small slice of ham may be added, and alittle less salt; both veal and ham being cut very small before fillingthe pie. 

BOILED TURKEY. 

Clean, stuff, and truss the fowl selected, as for a roasted turkey. Thebody is sometimes filled with oysters. To truss in the tightest and mostcompact way, run a skewer under the leg-joint between the leg and thethigh, then through the body and under the opposite leg-joint in the sameway; push the thighs up firmly close to the sides; wind a string about theends of the skewer, and tie it tight. Treat the wings in the same way, though in boiled fowls the points are sometimes drawn under the back, andtied there. The turkey may be boiled with or without cloth around it. Ineither case use _boiling_ water, salted as for stock, and allow twentyminutes to the pound. It is usually served with oyster sauce, but parsleyor capers may be used instead. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

Take all the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, and chop moderatelyfine. Mince an onion very small, and fry brown in a piece of butter thesize of an egg. Add one small cup of stock or water; one saltspoonful eachof pepper and mace; one teaspoonful of salt; the juice of half a lemon;two well-beaten eggs; and, if liked, a glass of wine. Make into smallrolls like corks, or mold in a pear shape, sticking in a clove for thestem when fried. Roll in sifted cracker-crumbs; dip in an egg beaten witha spoonful of water, and again in crumbs; put in the frying-basket, andfry in boiling lard. Drain on brown paper, and pile on a napkin inserving. 

A more delicate croquette is made by using simply the white meat, andadding a set of calf's brains which have been boiled in salted water. Acupful of boiled rice mashed fine is sometimes substituted for thebrains. Use same seasoning as above, adding quarter of a saltspoonful ofcayenne, omitting the wine, and using instead half a cup of cream or milk. Fry as directed. Veal croquettes can hardly be distinguished from those ofchicken. 

PHILADELPHIA CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

The croquette first given is dry when fried, and even the second form issomewhat so, many preferring them so. For the creamy delicious veal, sweetbread, or chicken croquette one finds in Philadelphia, the followingmaterials are necessary: one pint of hot cream; two even tablespoonfuls ofbutter; four heaping tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; half a teaspoonful ofsalt; half a saltspoonful of white pepper; a dust of cayenne; half ateaspoonful of celery salt; and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Scald thecream in a double boiler. Melt the butter in an enameled or granitesaucepan, and as it boils, stir in the flour, stirring till perfectlysmooth. Add the cream very slowly, stirring constantly as it thickens, adding the seasoning at the last. An egg may also be added, but thecroquettes are more creamy without it. To half a pound of chicken choppedfine, add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one of minced parsley, onebeaten egg and the pint of cream sauce. Spread on a platter to cool, andwhen cool make into shapes, either corks or like pears; dip in egg andcrumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Oyster, sweetbread, and veal croquettesare made by the same form, using a pint of chopped oysters. To thesweetbreads a small can of mushrooms may be added cut in bits. 

SALMI OF DUCKS OR GAME. 

Cut the meat from cold roast ducks or game into small bits. Break thebones and trimmings, and cover with stock or cold water, adding twocloves, two pepper-corns, and a bay-leaf or pinch of sweet herbs. Boiltill reduced to a cupful for a pint of meat. Mince two small onions fine, and fry brown in two tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoonfulsof flour and stir till deep brown, adding to it the strained broth fromthe bones. Put in the bits of meat with one tablespoonful of lemon juiceand one of Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for fifteen minutes, and at thelast add, if liked, six or eight mushrooms and a glass of claret. Serve onslices of fried bread, and garnish with fried bread and parsley. 

CASSEROLE OF RICE AND MEAT. 

This can be made of any kind of meat, but is nicest of veal or poultry. Boil a large cup of rice till tender, and let it cool. Chop fine half apound of meat, and season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small gratedonion, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne. Add ateacupful of cracker crumbs and a beaten egg, and wet with stock or hotwater enough to make it pack easily. Butter a tin mould, quart size best, and line the bottom and sides with rice about half an inch thick. Pack inthe meat; cover with rice, and steam one hour. Loosen at edges; turn outon hot platter, and pour tomato sauce around it. 

ITALIA'S PRIDE. 

This is a favorite dish in the writer's family, having been sent manyyears ago from Italy by a friend who had learned its composition from herItalian cook. Its name was bestowed by the children of the house. Onelarge cup of chopped meat; two onions minced and fried brown in butter; apint of cold boiled macaroni or spaghetti; a pint of fresh or cold stewedtomatoes; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Butter a pudding dish, and put first a layer of macaroni, then tomato, then meat and some onion and seasoning, continuing this till the dish isfull. Cover with fine bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake forhalf an hour. Serve very hot. 

DEVILED HAM. 

For this purpose use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of theamount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:--

One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard;one saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; one spoonful of butter; one teacupfulof boiling vinegar. Mix the sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and addthe vinegar little by little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it insmall molds, if it is to be served as a lunch or supper relish, turningout upon a small platter and garnishing with parsley. 

For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread withabout a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can beprepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in littlejars, and pour melted butter over the top. 

BONED TURKEY. 

This is a delicate dish, and is usually regarded as an impossibility forany ordinary housekeeper; and unless one is getting up a supper or otherentertainment, it is hardly worth while to undertake it. If the legs andwings are left on, the boning becomes much more difficult. The best planis to cut off both them and the neck, boiling all with the turkey, andusing the meat for croquettes or hash. 

Draw only the crop and windpipe, as the turkey is more easily handledbefore dressing. Choose a fat hen turkey of some six or seven poundsweight, and cut off legs up to second joint, with half the wings and theneck. Now, with a very sharp knife, make a clean cut down the entire back, and holding the knife close to the body, cut away the flesh, first on oneside and then another, making a clean cut around the pope's nose. Be verycareful, in cutting down the breastbone, not to break through the skin. The entire meat will now be free from the bones, save the pieces remainingin legs and wings. Cut out these, and remove all sinews. Spread the turkeyskin-side down on the board. Cut out the breasts, and cut them up in long, narrow pieces, or as you like. Chop fine a pound and a half of veal orfresh pork, and a slice of fat ham also. Season with one teaspoonful ofsalt, a saltspoonful each of mace and pepper, half a saltspoonful ofcayenne, and the juice of lemon. Cut half a pound of cold boiled smokedtongue into dice. Make layers of this force-meat, putting half of it onthe turkey and then the dice of tongue, with strips of the breast between, using force meat for the last layer. Roll up the turkey in a tight roll, and sew the skin together. Now roll it firmly in a napkin, tying at theends and across in two places to preserve the shape. Cover it with boilingwater, salted as for stock, putting in all the bones and giblets, and twoonions stuck with three cloves each. Boil four hours. Let it cool in theliquor. Take up in a pan, lay a tin sheet on it, and press with a heavyweight. Strain the water in which it was boiled, and put in a cold place. 

Next day take off the napkin, and set the turkey in the oven a moment tomelt off any fat. It can be sliced and eaten in this way, but makes ahandsomer dish served as follows:

Remove the fat from the stock, and heat three pints of it toboiling-point, adding two-thirds of a package of gelatine which has beensoaked in a little cold water. Strain a cupful of this into some prettymold, --an ear of corn is a good shape, --and the remainder in two pans ordeep plates, coloring each with caramel, --a teaspoonful in one, and two inthe other. Lay the turkey on a small platter turned face down in a largerone, and when the jelly is cold and firm, put the molded form on top ofit. Now cut part of the jelly into rounds with a pepper-box top or a smallstar-cutter, and arrange around the mold, chopping the rest and pilingabout the edge, so that the inner platter or stand is completelyconcealed. The outer row of jelly can have been colored red by cutting up, and boiling in the stock for it, half of a red beet. Sprigs of parsley ordelicate celery-tops may be used as garnish, and it is a veryelegant-looking as well as savory dish. The legs and wings can be left onand trussed outside, if liked, making it as much as possible in theoriginal shape; but it is no better, and much more trouble. 

JELLIED CHICKEN. 

Tenderness is no object here, the most ancient dweller in the barnyardanswering equally well, and even better than "broilers. "

Draw carefully, and if the fowl is old, wash it in water in which aspoonful of soda has been dissolved, rinsing in cold. Put on in coldwater, and season with a tablespoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful ofpepper. Boil till the meat slips easily from the bones, reducing the brothto about a quart. Strain, and when cold, take off the fat. Where anyfloating particles remain, they can always be removed by laying a piece ofsoft paper on the broth for a moment. Cut the breast in long strips, andthe rest of the meat in small pieces. Boil two or three eggs hard, andwhen cold, cut in thin slices. Slice a lemon very thin. Dissolve half apackage of gelatine in a little cold water; heat the broth toboiling-point, and add a saltspoonful of mace, and if liked, a glass ofsherry, though it is not necessary, pouring it on the gelatine. Choose apretty mold, and lay in strips of the breast; then a layer of egg-slices, putting them close against the mold. Nearly fill with chicken, laid inlightly; then strain on the broth till it is nearly full, and set in acold place. Dip for an instant in hot water before turning out. It is niceas a supper or lunch dish, and very pretty in effect. 

 * * * * *

SAUCES AND SALADS. 

The foundation for a large proportion of sauces is in what the French cookknows as a _roux_, and we as "drawn butter. " As our drawn butter is oftenlumpy, or with the taste of the raw flour, I give the French method as asecurity against such disaster. 

TO MAKE A ROUX. 

Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and add two eventablespoonfuls of sifted flour; one ounce of butter to two of flour beinga safe rule. Stir till smooth, and pour in slowly one pint of milk, ormilk and water, or water alone. With milk it is called _cream roux_, andis used for boiled fish and poultry. Where the butter and flour areallowed to brown, it is called a _brown roux_, and is thinned with thesoup or stew which it is designed to thicken. Capers added to a _whiteroux_--which is the butter and flour, with water added--give _capersauce_, for use with boiled mutton. Pickled nasturtiums are a goodsubstitute for capers. Two hard-boiled eggs cut fine give egg sauce. Chopped parsley or pickle, and the variety of catchups and sauces, make anendless variety; the _white roux_ being the basis for all of them. 

BREAD SAUCE. 

For this sauce boil one point of milk, with one onion cut in pieces. Whenit has boiled five minutes, take out the onion, and thicken the milk withhalf a pint of sifted bread-crumbs. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in afrying-pan; put in half a pint of coarser crumbs, stirring them till alight brown. Flavor the sauce with half a teaspoonful of salt, asaltspoonful of pepper, and a grate of nutmeg; and serve with game, helping a spoonful of the sauce, and one of the browned crumbs. The boiledonion may be minced fine and added, and the browned crumbs omitted. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

Wash and boil a small head of celery, which has been cut up fine, in onepint of water, with half a teaspoonful of salt. Boil till tender, whichwill require about half an hour. Make a _cream roux_, using half a pint ofmilk, and adding quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper. Stir into thecelery; boil a moment, and serve. A teaspoonful of celery salt can beused, if celery is out of season, adding it to the full rule for _creamroux_. Cauliflower may be used in the same way as celery, cutting it veryfine, and adding a large cupful to the sauce. Use either with boiledmeats. 

MINT SAUCE. 

Look over and strip off the leaves, and cut them as fine as possible witha sharp knife. Use none of the stalk but the tender tips. To a cupful ofchopped mint allow an equal quantity of sugar, and half a cup of goodvinegar. It should stand an hour before using. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 

Wash one quart of cranberries in warm water, and pick them over carefully. Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, with one pint of cold water and onepint of sugar, and cook without stirring for half an hour, turning theninto molds. This is the simplest method. They can be strained through asieve, and put in bowls, forming a marmalade, which can be cut in sliceswhen cold; or the berries can be crushed with a spoon while boiling, butleft unstrained. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

Pare, core, and quarter some apples (sour being best), and stew tilltender in just enough water to cover them. Rub them through a sieve, allowing a teacupful of sugar to a quart of strained apple, or even less, where intended to eat with roast pork or goose. Where intended for lunchor tea, do not strain, but treat as follows: Make a sirup of one largecupful of sugar and one of water for every dozen good-sized apples. Addhalf a lemon, cut in very thin slices. Put in the apple; cover closely, and stew till tender, keeping the quarters as whole as possible. The lemonmay be omitted. 

PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE. 

Make a _white roux_, with a pint of either water or milk; but water willbe very good. Add to it a large cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon orany essence liked, and a wine-glass of wine. Vinegar can be substituted. Grate in a little nutmeg, and serve hot. 

MOLASSES SAUCE. 

This sauce is intended especially for apple dumplings and puddings. Onepint of molasses; one tablespoonful of butter; the juice of one lemon, ora large spoonful of vinegar. Boil twenty minutes. It may be thickened witha tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, but isgood in either case. 

FOAMING SAUCE. 

Cream half a cup of butter till very light, and add a heaping cup ofsugar, beating both till white. Set the bowl in which it was beaten into apan of boiling water, and allow it to melt slowly. Just before servingbut _not before_, pour into it slowly half a cup or four spoonfuls ofboiling water, stirring to a thick foam. Grate in nutmeg, or use ateaspoonful of lemon essence, and if wine is liked, add a glass of sherryor a tablespoonful of brandy. For a pudding having a decided flavor of itsown, a sauce without wine is preferable. 

HARD SAUCE

Beat together the same proportions of butter and sugar as in the precedingreceipt; add a tablespoonful of wine if desired; pile lightly on a prettydish; grate nutmeg over the top, and set in a cold place till used. 

FRUIT SAUCES. 

The sirup of any nice canned fruit may be used cold as sauce for coldpuddings and blancmanges, or heated and thickened for hot, allowing to apint of juice a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a littlecold water, and boiling it five minutes. Strawberry or raspberry sirup isespecially nice. 

PLAIN SALAD DRESSING. 

Three tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil; one tablespoonful of vinegar; onesaltspoonful each of salt and pepper mixed together; and then, with threetablespoonfuls of best olive-oil, adding last the tablespoonful ofvinegar. This is the simplest form of dressing. The lettuce, or othersalad material, must be fresh and crisp, and should not be mixed till themoment of eating. 

SPANISH TOMATO SAUCE. 

One can of tomatoes or six large fresh ones; two minced onions fried brownin a large tablespoonful of butter. Add to the tomatoes with three sprigsof parsley and thyme, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper;three cloves and two allspice, with a small blade of mace and a bit oflemon peel, and two lumps of sugar. Stew very slowly for two hours, thenrub through a sieve, and return to the fire. Add two tablespoonfuls offlour, browned with a tablespoonful of butter, and boil up once. It shouldbe smooth and thick. Keep on ice, and it will keep a week. Excellent. 

MAYONNAISE SAUCE. 

For this sauce use the yolks of three raw eggs; one even tablespoonful ofmustard; one of sugar; one teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful ofcayenne. 

Break the egg yolks into a bowl; beat a few strokes, and gradually add themustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Now take a pint bottle of bestolive-oil, and stir in a few drops at a time. The sauce will thicken likea firm jelly. When the oil is half in, add the juice of one lemon bydegrees with the remainder of the oil; and last, add quarter of a cup ofgood vinegar. This will keep for weeks, and can be used with eitherchicken, salmon, or vegetable salad. 

A simpler form can be made with the yolk of one egg, half a pint of oil, and half the ingredients given above. It can be colored red with the juiceof a boiled beet, or with the coral of a lobster, and is very nice as adressing for raw tomatoes, cutting them in thick slices, and putting alittle of it on each slice. 

Mayonnaise may be varied in many ways, _sauce tartare_ being a favoriteone. This is simply two even tablespoonfuls of capers, half a small onion, and a tablespoonful of parsley, and two gherkins or a small cucumber, allminced fine and added to half a pint of mayonnaise. This keeps a longtime, and is very nice for fried fish or plain boiled tongue. 

DRESSING WITHOUT OIL. 

Cream a small cup of butter, and stir into it the yolks of three eggs. Mixtogether one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, and quarterof a saltspoonful of cayenne, and add to the butter and egg. Stir inslowly, instead of oil, one cup of cream, and add the juice of one lemonand half a cup of vinegar. 

BOILED DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. 

This is good also for vegetable salads. One small cup of good vinegar; twotablespoonfuls of sugar; half a teaspoonful each of salt and mustard; asaltspoonful of pepper; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; and twobeaten eggs. Put these all in a small saucepan over the fire, and stirtill it becomes a smooth paste. Have a firm, white cabbage, very cold, andchopped fine; and mix the dressing well through it. It will keep severaldays in a cold place. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Boil a tender chicken, and when cold, cut all the meat in dice. Cut upwhite tender celery enough to make the same amount, and mix with the meat. Stir into it a tablespoonful of oil with three of vinegar, and asaltspoonful each of mustard and salt, and let it stand an hour or two. When ready to serve, mix the whole with a mayonnaise sauce, leaving partto mask the top; or use the mayonnaise alone, without the first dressingof vinegar and oil. Lettuce can be substituted for celery; and whereneither is obtainable, a crisp white cabbage may be chopped fine, and themeat of the chicken also, and either a teaspoonful of extract of celery orcelery-seed used to flavor it The fat of the chicken, taken from the waterin which it was boiled, carefully melted and strained, and cooled again, is often used by Southern housekeepers. 

SALMON MAYONNAISE. 

Carefully remove all the skin and bones from a pound of boiled salmon, oruse a small can of the sealed, draining away all the liquid. Cut in smallpieces, and season with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a small onionminced fine, and half a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper. Cover thebottom of the salad dish with crisp lettuce-leaves; lay the salmon on it, and pour on the sauce. The meat of a lobster can be treated in the sameway. 

 * * * * *

EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

BOILED EGGS. 

Let the water be boiling fast when the eggs are put in, that it may not bechecked. They should have lain in warm water a few minutes before boiling, to prevent the shells cracking. Allow three minutes for a soft-boiled egg;four, to have the white firmly set; and ten, for a hard-boiled egg. Another method is to pour boiling water on the eggs, and let them standfor ten minutes where they will be nearly at boiling-point, though notboiling. The white and yolk are then perfectly cooked, and of jelly-likeconsistency. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Have a deep frying-pan full of boiling water, --simmering, not boilingfuriously. Put in two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. Break each egg into a cup or saucer, allowing one for each person; slidegently into the water, and let them stand five minutes, but withoutboiling. Have ready small slices of buttered toast which have beenpreviously dipped quickly into hot water. Take up the eggs on a skimmer;trim the edges evenly, and slip off upon the toast, serving at once. Forfried eggs, see _Ham and Eggs_, p. 158. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

Break half a dozen eggs into a bowl, and beat for a minute. Have thefrying-pan hot. Melt a tablespoonful of butter, with an even teaspoonfulof salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and turn in the eggs. Stir themconstantly as they harden, until they are a firm yet delicate mixture ofwhite and yellow, and turn into a hot dish, serving at once. A cup of milkmay be added if liked. The whole operation should not exceed five minutes. 

BAKED EGGS. 

Break the eggs into a buttered pudding-dish. Salt and pepper them verylightly, and bake in a quick oven till set. Or turn over them a cupful ofgood gravy, that of veal or poultry being especially nice, and bake inthe same way. Serve in the dish they were baked in. 

STUFFED EGGS. 

Boil eggs for twenty minutes. Drop them in cold water, and when cold, takeoff the shells, and cut the egg in two lengthwise. Take out the yolkscarefully; rub them fine on a plate, and add an equal amount of deviledham, or of cold tongue or chicken, minced very fine. If chicken is used, add a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne. Roll the mixture intolittle balls the size of the yolk; fill each white with it; arrange on adish with sprigs of parsley, and use cold as a lunch dish. They can alsobe served hot by laying them in a deep buttered pie-plate, covering with acream _roux_, dusting thickly with bread-crumbs, and browning in a quickoven. 

PLAIN OMELET. 

The pan for frying an omelet should be clean and very smooth. Break theeggs one by one into a cup, to avoid the risk of a spoiled one. Allow fromthree to five, but never _over_ five, for a single omelet. Turn them intoa bowl, and give them twelve beats with whisk or fork. Put butter the sizeof an egg into the frying-pan, and let it run over the entire surface. Asit begins to boil, turn in the eggs. Hold the handle of the pan in onehand, and with the other draw the egg constantly up from the edges as itsets, passing a knife underneath to let the butter run under. Shake thepan now and then to keep the omelet from scorching. It should be firm atthe edges, and creamy in the middle. When done, either fold over one-halfon the other, and turn on to a hot platter to serve at once, or set in theoven a minute to brown the top, turning it out in a round. A littlechopped ham or parsley may be added. The myriad forms of omelet to befound in large cook-books are simply this plain one, with a spoonful or soof chopped mushrooms or tomatoes or green pease laid in the middle of itjust before folding and serving. A variation is also made by beatingwhites and yolks separately, then adding half a cup of cream or milk;doubling the seasoning given above, and then following the directions forfrying. Quarter of an onion and a sprig or two of parsley minced fine area very nice addition. A cupful of finely minced fish, either fresh orsalt, makes a fish omlet. Chopped oysters may also be used; and manypersons like a large spoonful of grated cheese, though this is a Frenchrather than American taste. 

BAKED OMELET. 

One large cup of milk; five eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and half a oneof white pepper mixed with the last. Beat the eggs well, a Doveregg-beater being the best possible one where yolks and whites are notseparated; add the salt and pepper, and then the milk. Melt a piece ofbutter the size of an egg in a frying-pan, and when it boils, pour in theegg. Let it stand two minutes, or long enough to harden a little, but donot stir at all. When a little firm, put into a quick oven, and bake tillbrown. It will rise very high, but falls almost immediately. Serve at onceon a very hot platter. This omelet can also be varied with chopped ham orparsley. The old-fashioned iron spider with short handle is best forbaking it, as a long-handled pan cannot be shut up in the oven. Thisomelet can also be fried in large spoonfuls, like pancakes, rolling eachone as done. 

CHEESE FONDU. 

This preparation of grated cheese and eggs can be made in a large dish forseveral people, or in "portions" for one, each in a small earthen dish. For one portion allow two eggs; half a saltspoonful of salt; a heapingtablespoonful of grated cheese; two of milk; and a few grains of cayenne. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in the dish, and when it boils, pour in thecheese and egg, and cook slowly till it is well set. It is served in thedish in which it is cooked, and should be eaten at once. 

An adaptation of this has been made by Mattieu Williams, the author of the"Chemistry of Cookery. " It is as follows:--

Soak enough slices of bread to fill a quart pudding-dish, in a pint ofmilk, to which half a teaspoonful of salt and two beaten eggs have beenadded. Butter the pudding-dish and lay in the bread, putting a thickcoating of grated cheese on each slice. Pour what milk may remain over thetop, and bake slowly about half an hour. 

CHEESE SOUFFLÉ. 

Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and add to it half ateaspoonful of dry mustard; a grain of cayenne; a saltspoonful of whitepepper; a grate of nutmeg; two tablespoonfuls of flour; and stir allsmooth, adding a gill of milk and a large cupful of grated cheese. Stirinto this as much powdered bi-carbonate of potash as will stand on athree-cent piece, and then beat in three eggs, yolks and whites beatenseparately. Pour this into a buttered earthen dish; bake in a quick oven, and serve at once. In all cases where cheese disagrees it will be foundthat the bi-carbonate of potash renders it harmless. 

TO BOIL OATMEAL OR CRUSHED WHEAT. 

Have ready a quart of boiling water in a farina-boiler, or use a smallpail set in a saucepan of boiling water. If oatmeal or any grain is boiledin a single saucepan, it forms, no matter how often it is stirred, a thickcrust on the bottom; and, as _never to stir_ is a cardinal rule for allthese preparations, let the next one be, a double boiler. 

Add a teaspoonful of salt to the quart of water in the inside boiler. Besure it is boiling, and then throw in one even cup of oatmeal or crushedwheat. Now _let it alone_ for two hours, only being sure that the water inthe outside saucepan does not dry away, but boils steadily. When done, each grain should be distinct, yet jelly-like. Stirring makes a mere mush, neither very attractive nor palatable. If there is not time for this longboiling in the morning, let it be done the afternoon before. Do not turnout the oatmeal, but fill the outer boiler next morning, and let it boilhalf an hour, or till heated through. 

COARSE HOMINY. 

Treat like oatmeal, using same amount to a quart of water, save that itmust be thoroughly washed beforehand. Three hours' boiling is better thantwo. 

FINE HOMINY. 

Allow a cupful to a quart of boiling, salted water. Wash it in two orthree waters, put over, and boil steadily for half an hour, or till itwill pour out easily. If too thin, boil uncovered for a short time. Stirin a tablespoonful of butter before sending to table. Any of thesepreparations may be cut in slices when cold, floured on each side, andfried brown like mush. 

FINE HOMINY CAKES. 

One pint of cold boiled hominy; two eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and atablespoonful of butter melted. Break up the hominy fine with a fork, andadd salt and butter. Beat the eggs, --whites and yolks separately; add theyolks first, and last the whites; and either fry brown in a little butteror drop by spoonfuls on buttered plates, and bake brown in a quick oven. This is a nice side-dish at dinner. Oatmeal and wheat can be used in thesame way at breakfast. 

HASTY PUDDING, OR MUSH. 

One cup of sifted Indian meal, stirred smooth in a bowl with a little coldwater. Have ready a quart of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, and pour in the meal. Boil half an hour, or till it will just pour, stirring often. To be eaten hot with butter and sirup. Rye or graham flourcan be used in the same way. If intended to fry, pour the hot mush into ashallow pan which has been wet with cold water to prevent its sticking. Aspoonful of butter may be added while hot, but is not necessary. Cut inthin slices when cold; flour each side; and fry brown in a little butteror nice drippings, serving hot. 

WHAT TO DO WITH COLD POTATOES. 

Chop, as for hash; melt a tablespoonful of either butter or nice drippingsin a frying-pan; add, for six or eight good-sized potatoes, one eventeaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When the fat boils, putin the potatoes, and fry for about ten minutes, or until well browned. Assoon as they are done, if not ready to use, move to the back of the stove, that they may not burn. 

Or cut each potato in lengthwise slices; dredge on a little flour; and frybrown on each side, watching carefully that they do not burn. The fat fromtwo or three slices of fried salt pork may be used for these. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

Slice six cold boiled potatoes. Mince very fine an onion and two or threesprigs of parsley, --enough to fill a teaspoon. Melt in a frying-pan atablespoonful of butter; put in the onion, and fry light brown; then addthe potatoes, and fry to a light brown also, turning them often. Put intoa hot dish, stirring in the minced parsley, and pouring over them anybutter that may be left in the pan. 

STEWED POTATOES. 

One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut in bits; one cup of milk; butter thesize of an egg; a heaping teaspoonful of flour. Melt the butter in asaucepan; add the flour, and cook a moment; and pour in the milk, an eventeaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. When it boils, add the potatoes. Boil a minute, and serve. 

SARATOGA POTATOES. 

Pare potatoes, and slice thin as wafers, either with a potato-slicer or athin-bladed, very sharp knife. Lay in very cold water at least an hourbefore using. If for breakfast, over-night is better. Have boiling lard atleast three inches deep in a frying kettle or pan. Dry the potatoesthoroughly in a towel, and drop in a few slices at a time, frying to agolden brown. Take out with a skimmer, and lay on a double brown paper inthe oven to dry, salting them lightly. They may be eaten either hot orcold. Three medium-sized potatoes will make a large dishful; or, as theykeep perfectly well, enough may be done at once for several meals, heatingthem a few minutes in the oven before using. 

FISH BALLS. 

One pint of cold salt fish, prepared as on page 136, and chopped veryfine. Eight good-sized, freshly-boiled potatoes, or enough to make a quartwhen mashed. Mash with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a heapingtablespoonful of butter, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of made mustard. Mixin the chopped fish, blending both thoroughly. Make into small, roundcakes; flour on each side; and fry brown in a little drippings or fat offried pork. A nicer way is to make into round balls, allowing a largetablespoonful to each. Roll in flour; or they can be egged and crumbedlike croquettes. Drop into boiling lard; drain on brown paper, and servehot. Fresh fish can be used in the same way, and is very nice. Breadcrumbs, softened in milk, can be used instead of potato, but are notso good. 

FISH HASH. 

Use either fresh fish or salt. If the former, double the measure of saltwill be needed. Prepare and mix as in fish balls, allowing always doublethe amount of fresh mashed potato that you have of fish. Melt a largespoonful of butter or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, put in thefish. Let it stand till brown on the bottom, and then stir. Do this two orthree times, letting it brown at the last, pressing it into omelet form, and turning out on a hot platter, or piling it lightly. 

FISH WITH CREAM. 

One pint of cold minced fish, either salt cod or fresh fish; alwaysdoubling the amount of seasoning given if fresh is used. Melt in afrying-pan a tablespoonful of butter; stir in a heaping one of flour, andcook a minute; then add a pint of milk and a saltspoonful each of salt andpepper. When it boils, stir in the fish, and add two well-beaten eggs. Cook for a minute, and serve very hot. 

Cold salmon, or that put up unspiced, is nice done in this way. The eggscan be omitted, but it is not as good. If cream is plenty, use part cream. Any cold boiled fresh fish can be used in this way. 

SALT MACKEREL OR ROE HERRING. 

Soak over-night, the skin-side up. In the morning wipe dry, and eitherbroil, as in general directions for broiling fish, page 133, or fry brownin pork fat or drippings. 

Salted shad are treated in the same way. All are better broiled. 

FRIED SAUSAGES. 

If in skins, prick them all over with a large darning-needle or fork;throw them into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for one minute. Takeout, wipe dry, and lay in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted atablespoonful of hot lard or drippings. Turn often. As soon as brown theyare done. If gravy is wanted, stir a tablespoonful of flour into the fatin the pan; add a cup of boiling water, and salt to taste, --about asaltspoonful, --and pour, not _over_, but around the sausages. Serve hot. 

FRIZZLED BEEF. 

Half a pound of smoked beef cut very thin. This can be just heated in atablespoonful of hot butter, and then served, or prepared as follows:--

Pour boiling water on the beef, and let it stand five minutes. In themeantime melt in a frying-pan one tablespoonful of butter; stir in atablespoonful of flour, and add slowly half a pint of milk or water. Putin the beef which has been taken from the water; cook a few minutes, andadd two or three well-beaten eggs, cooking only a minute longer. It can beprepared without eggs, or they may be added to the beef just heated inbutter; but the last method is best. 

VEAL LOAF. 

Three pounds of lean veal and quarter of a pound of salt pork chopped veryfine. Mince an onion as fine as possible. Grate a nutmeg, or use half ateaspoonful of powdered mace, mixing it with an even tablespoonful ofsalt, and an even saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Add three well-beateneggs, a teacupful of milk, and a large spoonful of melted butter. Mix theingredients very thoroughly; form into a loaf; cover thickly with siftedbread or cracker crumbs, and bake three hours, basting now and then with alittle butter and water. When cold, cut in thin slices, and use forbreakfast or tea. It is good for breakfast with baked potatoes, and slicesof it are sometimes served around a salad. A glass of wine is sometimesadded before baking. 

MEAT HASH. 

The English hash is meat cut either in slices or mouthfuls, and warmed inthe gravy; and the Southern hash is the same. A genuine hash, however, requires potato, and may be made of any sort of meat; cold roast beefbeing excellent, and cold corned beef best of all. Mutton is good; butveal should always be used as a mince, and served on toast as in the ruleto be given. 

Chop the meat fine, and allow one-third meat to two-thirds potato. Forcorned-beef hash the potatoes should be freshly boiled and mashed. Forother cold meats finely-chopped cold potatoes will answer. To a quart ofthe mixture allow a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of peppermixed together, and sprinkled on the meat before chopping. Heat atablespoonful of butter or nice drippings in a frying-pan; moisten thehash with a little cold gravy or water; and heat slowly, stirring often. It may be served on buttered toast when hot, without browning, but isbetter browned. To accomplish this, first heat through, then set on theback of the stove, and let it stand twenty minutes. Fold like an omelet, or turn out in a round, and serve hot. 

MINCED VEAL. 

Chop cold veal fine, picking out all bits of gristle. To a pint-bowlfulallow a large cup of boiling water; a tablespoonful of butter and one offlour; a teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful each of pepper and mace. Make a _roux_ with the butter and flour, and add the seasoning; put in theveal, and cook five minutes, serving it on buttered toast, made as indirections given for water toast. 

TOAST, DRY OR BUTTERED. 

Not one person in a hundred makes good toast; yet nothing can be simpler. Cut the slices of bread evenly, and rather thin. If a wire toaster isused, several can be done at once. Hold just far enough from the fire tobrown nicely; and turn often, that there may be no scorching. Toast to aneven, golden brown. No rule will secure this, and only experience and carewill teach one just what degree of heat will do it. If to be buttered dry, butter each slice evenly as taken from the fire, and pile on a hot plate. If served without butter, either send to table in a toast-rack, or, if ona plate, do not pile together, but let the slices touch as little aspossible, that they may not steam and lose crispness. 

WATER TOAST. 

Have a pan of boiling hot, well-salted water; a teaspoonful to a quartbeing the invariable rule. Dip each slice of toast quickly into this. Itmust not be _wet_, but only moistened. Butter, and pile on a hot plate. Poached eggs and minces are served on this form of toast, which is alsonice with fricasseed chicken. 

MILK TOAST. 

Scald a quart of milk in a double boiler, and thicken it with two eventablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or thesame amount of flour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and a heapingtablespoonful of butter. Have ready a dozen slices of water toast, which, unless wanted quite rich, needs no butter. Pour the thickened milk into apan, that each slice may be easily dipped into it, and pile them whendipped in a deep dish, pouring the rest of the milk over them. Serve veryhot. Cream is sometimes used instead of milk, in which case no thickeningis put in, and only a pint heated with a saltspoonful of salt. 

 * * * * *

TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 

For these a cardinal rule has already been given in Part I. , but can notbe enforced too often; viz. , the necessity of fresh water boiled, and usedas soon as it boils, that the gases which give it character and sparklemay not have had time to escape. Tea and coffee both should be kept fromthe air, but the former even more carefully than the latter, as thedelicate flavor evaporates more quickly. 

TEA. 

To begin with, never use a tin teapot if an earthen one is obtainable. Aneven teaspoonful of dry tea is the usual allowance for a person. Scald theteapot with a little _boiling water_, and pour it off. Put in the tea, andpour on not over a cup of boiling water, letting it stand a minute or twofor the leaves to swell. Then fill with the needed amount of _water stillboiling_, this being about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely, andlet it stand five minutes. Ten will be required for English breakfast tea, but _never boil_ either, above all in a tin pot. Boiling liberates thetannic acid of the tea, which acts upon the tin, making a compound bitterand metallic in taste, and unfit for human stomachs. 

COFFEE. 

The best coffee is made from a mixture of two-thirds Java and one-thirdMocha; the Java giving strength, and the Mocha flavor and aroma. Theroasting must be very perfectly done. If done at home, constant stirringis necessary to prevent burning; but all good grocers use now rotaryroasters, which brown each grain perfectly. Buy in small quantities_unground_; keep closely covered; and if the highest flavor is wanted, heat hot before grinding. 

A noted German chemist claims to have discovered an effectual antidote tothe harmful effects of coffee, --an antidote for which he had searched foryears. In his experiments he discovered that the fibre of cotton, in itsnatural state before bleaching, neutralizes the harmful principle of thecaffein. To make absolutely harmless coffee which yet has no loss offlavor, it is to be boiled in a bag of unbleached cheese-cloth orsomething equally porous. In the coffee-pot of his invention, the roundsof cotton are slipped between two cylinders of tin, and the boiling wateris poured through once or twice, on the same principle as French filteredcoffee. The cloths must be rinsed in hot and then cold water daily andcarefully dried; and none are to be used longer than one week, as at theend of that time, even with careful washing, the fibre is saturated withthe harmful principle. The same proportions of coffee as those given beloware used, and the pot must stand in a hot place while the water filtersthrough. 

For a quart of coffee allow four heaping tablespoonfuls of coffee whenground. Scald the coffee-pot; mix the ground coffee with a little coldwater and two or three egg-shells, which can be dried and kept for thispurpose. Part of a fresh egg with the shell is still better. Put into thehot coffee-pot, and pour on one quart of _boiling water_. Cover tightly, and boil five minutes; then pour out a cupful to free the spout fromgrounds, and return this to the pot. Let it stand a few minutes to settle, and serve with boiled milk, and cream if it is to be had. Never forappearance's sake decant coffee. Much of the flavor is lost by turningfrom one pot into another, and the shapes are now sufficiently pretty tomake the block tin ones not at all unpresentable at table. 

Where coffee is required for a large company, allow a pound and a half toa gallon of water. 

Coffee made in a French filter or biggin is considered better by many; butI have preferred to give a rule that may be used with certainty whereFrench cooking utensils are unknown. 

COCOA, BROMA, AND SHELLS. 

The directions found on packages of these articles are always reliable. The _cocoa_ or _broma_ should be mixed smoothly with a little boilingwater, and added to that in the saucepan; one quart of either requiring apint each of milk and water, about three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, and asmall cup of sugar. A pinch of salt is always a great improvement. Boilfor half an hour. 

SHELLS are merely the husk of the cocoa-nut; and a cupful to a quart ofboiling water is the amount needed. Boil steadily an hour, and use withmilk and sugar. 

CHOCOLATE. 

This rule, though unlike that given in cook-books generally, makes a drinkin consistency and flavor like that offered at Maillard's or Mendee's, thelargest chocolate manufacturers in the country. 

Scrape or grate fine two squares (two ounces) of Baker's or anyunsweetened chocolate. Add to this one small cup of sugar and a pinch ofsalt, and put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of water. Stir for afew minutes till smooth and glossy, and then pour in gradually one pint ofmilk and one of boiling water. Let all boil a minute. Dissolve one heapingteaspoonful of corn-starch or arrow-root in a little cold water, and addto the chocolate. Boil one minute, and serve. If cream can be had, whip toa stiff froth, allowing two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a few drops ofvanilla essence to a cup of cream. Serve a spoonful laid on the top of thechocolate in each cup. The corn-starch may be omitted, but is necessaryto the perfection of this rule, the following of which renders thechocolate not only smooth, but entirely free from any oily particles. Flavor is lost by any longer boiling, though usually half an hour has beenconsidered necessary. 

 * * * * *

VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES. 

To be able to boil a potato perfectly is one of the tests of a good cook, there being nothing in the whole range of vegetables which is apparentlyso difficult to accomplish. Like the making of good bread, nothing issimpler when once learned. A good boiled potato should be white, mealy, and served very hot. If the potatoes are old, peel thinly with a sharpknife; cut out all spots, and let them lie in cold water some hours beforeusing. It is more economical to boil before peeling, as the best part ofthe potato lies next the skin; but most prefer them peeled. Put on inboiling water, allowing a teaspoonful of salt to every quart of water. Medium-sized potatoes will boil in half an hour. Let them be as nearly ofa size as possible, and if small and large are cooked at the same time, put on the large ones ten or fifteen minutes before the small. When done, pour off every drop of water; cover with a clean towel, and set on theback of the range to dry for a few minutes before serving. The poorestpotato can be made tolerable by this treatment. Never let them wait forother things, but time the preparation of dinner so that they will beready at the moment needed. New potatoes require no peeling, but shouldmerely be well washed and rubbed. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Boil as directed, and when dry and mealy, mash fine with a potato-masheror large spoon, allowing for a dozen medium-sized potatoes a piece ofbutter the size of an egg, half a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, andhalf a teaspoonful of white pepper. The milk may be omitted if the potatois preferred dry. Pile lightly in a dish, or smooth over, and serve atonce. Never brown in the oven, as it destroys the good flavor. 

POTATO SNOW. 

Mash as above, and rub through a colander into a very hot dish, beingcareful not to press it down in any way, and serve hot as possible. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Wash and scrub carefully, as some persons eat the skin. A large potatorequires an hour to bake. Their excellence depends upon being eaten themoment they are done. 

POTATOES WITH BEEF. 

Pare, and lay in cold water at least an hour. An hour before a roast ofbeef is done, lay in the pan, and baste them when the beef is basted. Theyare very nice. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Cold mashed potatoes may be used, but fresh is better. To half a dozenpotatoes, mashed as in directions given, allow quarter of a saltspoonfuleach of mace or nutmeg and cayenne pepper, and one beaten egg. Make inlittle balls or rolls; egg and crumb, and fry in boiling lard. Drain onbrown paper, and serve like chicken croquettes. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

Wash carefully, and boil without peeling from three-quarters of an hour toan hour. Peel, and dry in the oven ten minutes. They are better baked, requiring about an hour for medium-sized ones. 

BEETS. 

Winter beets should be soaked over-night. Wash them carefully; but neverpeel or even prick them, as color and sweetness would be lost. Put inboiling, salted water. Young beets will cook in two hours; old onesrequire five or six. Peel, and if large, cut in slices, putting a littlebutter on each one. They can be served cold in a little vinegar. 

PARSNIPS. 

Wash, and scrape clean; cut lengthwise in halves, and boil an hour, or twoif very old. Serve whole with a little drawn butter, or mash fine, seasonwell, allowing to half a dozen large parsnips a teaspoonful of salt, asaltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Three large parsnips boiled and mashed fine, adding two well-beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfulsof milk, and one heaping one of flour. Drop in spoonfuls, and fry brown ina little hot butter. _Oyster-plant_ fritters are made in the same way. 

OYSTER-PLANT STEWED. 

Scrape, and throw at once into cold water with a little vinegar in it, tokeep them from turning black. Cut in small pieces, or boil whole for anhour. Mash fine, and make like parsnip fritters; or drain the pieces dry, and serve with drawn butter. 

CARROTS. 

Carrots are most savory boiled with corned beef for two hours. They mayalso be boiled plain, cut in slices, and served with drawn butter. For oldcarrots not less than two hours will be necessary. Plenty of water must beused, and when cold the carrots are to be cut in dice. Melt in a saucepana spoonful of butter; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful ofpepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and when the butter boils put in thecarrots, and stir till heated through. Pile them in the centre of aplatter, and put around them a can of French peas, which have been cookedin only a spoonful of water, with a teaspoonful of sugar, a spoonful ofbutter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. This is a prettyand excellent dish, and substantial as meat. A cup of stock can be addedto the carrots if desired, but they are better without it. 

TURNIPS. 

Pare and cut in quarters. Boil in well-salted water for an hour, or untiltender. Drain off the water, and let them stand a few minutes to dry; thenmash fine, allowing for about a quart a teaspoonful of salt, half a one ofpepper, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Or they may be left in pieces, and served with drawn butter. 

CABBAGE. 

Wash, and look over very carefully, and lay in cold water an hour. Cut inquarters, and boil with corned beef an hour, or till tender, or with asmall piece of salt pork. Drain, and serve whole as possible. A much nicerway is to boil in well-salted water, changing it once after the firsthalf-hour. Boil an hour; take up and drain; chop fine, and add a teacupfulof milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, andhalf a one of pepper. Serve very hot. For cabbage Virginia fashion, andthe best of fashions, too, bake this last form in a buttered pudding-dish, having first stirred in two or three well-beaten eggs, and covered the topwith bread-crumbs. Bake till brown. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Wash and trim, and boil in a bag made of mosquito-netting to keep itwhole. Boil steadily in well-salted water for one hour. Dish carefully, and pour over it a nice drawn butter. Any cold remains may be used assalad, or chopped and baked, as in rule for baked cabbage. 

ONIONS. 

If milk is plenty, use equal quantities of skim-milk and water, allowing aquart of each for a dozen or so large onions. If water alone is used, change it after the first half-hour, as this prevents their turning dark;salting as for all vegetables, and boiling young onions one hour; oldones, two. Either chop fine, and add a spoonful of butter, half ateaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, or serve them whole in adressing made by heating one cup of milk with the same butter and otherseasoning as when chopped. Put the onions in a hot dish, pour this overthem, and serve. They may also be half boiled; then put in a buttereddish, covered with this sauce and a layer of bread-crumbs, and baked foran hour. 

WINTER SQUASH. 

Cut in two, and take out the seeds and fiber. Half will probably be enoughto cook at once. Cut this in pieces; pare off the rind, and lay each piecein a steamer. Never boil in water if it can be avoided, as it must be asdry as possible. Steam for two hours. Mash fine, or run through avegetable sifter, and, for a quart or so of squash, allow a piece ofbutter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful ofpepper. Serve very hot. 

SUMMER SQUASH, OR CIMLINS. 

Steam as directed above, taking out the seeds, but not peeling them. Mashthrough a colander; season, and serve hot. If very young, the seeds areoften cooked in them. Half an hour will be sufficient. 

PEASE. 

Shell, and put over in boiling, salted water, to which a teaspoonful ofsugar has been added. Boil till tender, half an hour or a little more. Drain off the water; add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and asaltspoonful of salt. If the pease are old, put a bit of soda the size ofa pea in the water. 

FIELD PEASE. 

These are generally used after drying. Soak over-night, and boil twohours, or till tender, with or without a small piece of bacon. Ifwithout, butter as for green pease. Or they can be mashed fine, rubbedthrough a sieve, and then seasoned, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper. 

In Virginia they are often boiled, mashed a little, and fried in a largecake. 

SUCCOTASH. 

Boil green corn and beans separately. Cut the corn from the cob, andseason both as in either alone. A nicer way, however, is to score the rowsin half a dozen ears of corn; scrape off the corn; add a pint of lima orany nice green bean, and boil one hour in a quart of boiling water, withone teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Letthe water boil away to about a cupful; add a spoonful of butter, and servein a hot dish. Many, instead of butter, use with it a small piece ofpork, --about quarter of a pound; but it is better without. A spoonful ofcream may be added. Canned corn and beans may be used; and even driedbeans and coarse hominy--the former well soaked, and both boiled togetherthree hours--are very good. 

STRING BEANS. 

String, cut in bits, and boil an hour if very young. If old, an hour andan half, or even two, may be needed. Drain off the water, and season likegreen pease. 

SHELLED BEANS. 

Any green bean may be used in this way, lima and butter beans being thenicest. Put on in boiling, salted water, and boil not less than one hour. Season like string beans. 

GREEN CORN. 

Husk, and pick off all the silk. Boil in well-salted water, and serve onthe cob, wrapped in a napkin, or cut off and seasoned like beans. Cuttingdown through each row gives, when scraped off, the kernel without thehull. 

GREEN-CORN FRITTERS. 

One pint of green corn grated. This will require about six ears. Mix withthis, half a cup of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup of flour, oneteaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful ofmelted butter. Fry in very small cakes in a little hot butter, browningwell on both sides. Serve very hot. 

CORN PUDDING. 

One pint of cut or grated corn, one pint of milk, two well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Butter apudding-dish, and bake the mixture half an hour. Canned corn can be usedin the same way. 

EGG-PLANT. 

Peel, cut in slices half an inch thick, and lay them in well-salted waterfor an hour. Wipe dry; dip in flour or meal, and fry brown on each side. Fifteen minutes will be needed to cook sufficiently. The slices can beegged and crumbed before frying, and are nicer than when merely floured. 

EGG-PLANT FRITTERS. 

Peel the egg-plant, and take out the seeds. Boil for an hour inwell-salted water. Drain as dry as possible; mash fine, and prepareprecisely like corn fritters. 

BAKED EGG-PLANT. 

Peel, and cut out a piece from the top; remove the seeds, and fill thespace with a dressing like that for ducks, fitting in the piece cut out. Bake an hour, basting with a spoonful of butter melted in a cup of water, and dredging with flour between each basting. It is very nice. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Wash, and cut off almost all of the white end. Tie up in small bundles;put into boiling, salted water, and cook till tender, --about half an hour, or more if old. 

Make some slices of water toast, as in rule given, using the water inwhich the asparagus was boiled; lay the slices on a hot platter, and theasparagus upon them, pouring a spoonful of melted butter over it. Theasparagus may be cut in little bits, and, when boiled, a drawn butterpoured over it, or served on toast, as when left whole. Cold asparagus maybe cut fine, and used in an omelet, or simply warmed over. 

SPINACH. 

Not less than a peck is needed for a dinner for three or four. Pick overcarefully, wash, and let it lie in cold water an hour or two. Put on inboiling, salted water, and boil an hour, or until tender. Take up in acolander, that it may drain perfectly. Have in a hot dish a piece ofbutter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful ofpepper, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of vinegar. Chop the spinach fine, and put in the dish, stirring in this dressing thoroughly. A teacupful ofcream is often added. Any tender greens, beet or turnip tops, kale, &c. , are treated in this way; kale, however, requiring two hours' boiling. 

ARTICHOKES. 

Cut off the outside leaves; trim the bottom; throw into boiling, saltedwater, with a teaspoonful of vinegar in it, and boil an hour. Season, andserve like turnips, or with drawn butter poured over them. 

TOMATOES STEWED. 

Pour on boiling water to take off the skins; cut in pieces, and stewslowly for half an hour; adding for a dozen tomatoes a tablespoonful ofbutter, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonfulof sugar. Where they are preferred sweet, two tablespoonfuls of sugar willbe necessary. They may be thickened with a tablespoonful of flour orcorn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or with half a cup of rolledcracker or bread crumbs. Canned tomatoes are stewed in the same way. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

Take off the skins; lay the tomatoes in a buttered pudding-dish; put a bitof butter on each one. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful ofpepper, with a cup of bread or cracker crumbs, and cover the top. Bake anhour. 

Or cut the tomatoes in bits, and put a layer of them and one of seasonedcrumbs, ending with crumbs. Dot the top with bits of butter, that it maybrown well, and bake in the same way. Canned tomatoes are almost equallygood. Thin slices of well-buttered bread may be used instead of crumbs. 

FRIED TOMATOES. 

Cut in thick slices. Mix in a plate half a teacupful of flour, asaltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; and dip each slice inthis, frying brown in hot butter. 

BROILED TOMATOES. 

Prepare as for frying, and broil in a wire broiler, putting a bit ofbutter on each slice when brown, and serving on a hot dish or on butteredtoast. 

RICE. 

Wash in cold water, changing it at least twice. It is better if allowed tosoak an hour. Drain, and throw into a good deal of boiling, salted water, allowing not less than two quarts to a cupful of rice. Boil twentyminutes, stirring now and then. Pour into a colander, that every drop ofwater may drain off, and then set it at the back of the stove to dry forten minutes. In this way every grain is distinct, yet perfectly tender. Ifold, half an hour's boiling may be required. Test by biting a grain at theend of twenty minutes. If tender, it is done. 

RICE CROQUETTES. 

Where used as a vegetable with dinner, to a pint of cold boiled rice allowa tablespoonful of melted butter and one or two well-beaten eggs. Mixthoroughly. A pinch of cayenne or a little chopped parsley may be added. Make in the shape of corks; egg and crumb, and fry a golden brown. 

MACARONI. 

Never wash macaroni if it can be avoided. Break in lengths of three orfour inches and throw into boiling, salted water, allowing quarter of apound for a dinner for three or four. Boil for half an hour, and drain offthe water. It may be served plain with tomato sauce, or simply buttered, or with drawn butter poured over it. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE. 

Boil as directed. Make a pint of white sauce or _roux_, as on p. 169, using milk if it can be had, though water answers. Have a cupful of goodgrated cheese. Butter a pudding-dish. Put in a layer of macaroni, one ofsauce, and one of cheese, ending with cheese. Dust the top with siftedbread or cracker crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake fifteen minutesin a quick oven. It can be baked in the same way without cheese, or withsimply a cup of milk and two eggs added, making a sort of pudding. 

 * * * * *

BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

BREAD-MAKING AND FLOUR. 

Much of the health, and consequently much of the happiness, of the familydepends upon good bread: therefore no pains should be spared in learningthe best method of making, which will prove easiest in the end. 

Yeast, flour, kneading, and baking must each be perfect, and nothing inthe whole range of cooking is of such prime importance. 

Once master the problem of yeast, and the first form of wheat bread, andendless varieties of both bread and breakfast cakes can be made. 

The old and the new process flour--the former being known as the St. Louis, and the latter as Haxall flour--are now to be had at all goodgrocers; and from either good bread may be made, though that from thelatter keeps moist longer. Potapsco flour is of the same quality as theSt. Louis. It contains more starch than the St. Louis, and for this reasonrequires, even more than that, the use in the family of coarser or grahamflour at the same time; white bread alone not being as nutritious orstrengthening, for reasons given in Part I. Graham flour is fast beingsuperseded by a much better form, prepared principally by the Health FoodCompany in New York, in which the entire grain, save the husk, is groundas fine as the ordinary flour, thus doing away with the coarseness thatmany have objected to in graham bread. 

Flour made by the new process swells more than that by the old, and alittle less quantity--about an eighth less--is therefore required inmixing and kneading. As definite rules as possible are given for the wholeoperation; but experience alone can insure perfect bread, changes oftemperature affecting it at once, and baking being also a critical point. 

Pans made of thick tin, or, better still, of Russia iron, ten inches long, four or five wide, and four deep, make the best-shaped loaf, and onerequiring a reasonably short time to bake. 

YEAST. 

Ingredients: One teacupful of lightly broken hops; one pint of siftedflour; one cupful of sugar; one tablespoonful of salt; four large or sixmedium-sized potatoes; and two quarts of boiling water. 

Boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. At the same time, having tied thehops in a little bag, boil them for half an hour in the two quarts ofwater, but in another saucepan. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt welltogether in a large mixing-bowl, and pour on the boiling hop-water, stirring constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed potato to thinit till it can be poured, and mix all together, straining it through asieve to avoid any possible lumps. Add to this, when cool, either a cupfulof yeast left from the last, or of baker's yeast, or a Twin Brothers'yeast cake dissolved in a little warm water. Let it stand till partlylight, and then stir down two or three times in the course of five or sixhours, as this makes it stronger. At the end of that time it will belight. Keep in a covered stone jar, or in glass cans. By stirring incorn-meal till a dough is made, and then forming it in small cakes anddrying in the sun, _dry yeast_ is made, which keeps better than the liquidin hot weather. Crumb, and soak in warm water half an hour before using. 

_Potato yeast_ is made by omitting hops and flour, but mashing thepotatoes fine with the same proportion of other ingredients, and addingthe old yeast, when cool, as before. It is very nice, but must be madefresh every week; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be good amonth. 

BREAD. 

For four loaves of bread of the pan-size given above, allow as follows:Four quarts of flour; one large cup of yeast; one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and one of butter or lard; one pint of milk mixed with oneof warm water, or one quart of water alone for the "wetting. "

Sift the flour into a large pan or bowl. Put the sugar, salt, and butterin the bottom of the bread pan or bowl, and pour on a spoonful or two ofboiling water, enough to dissolve all. Add the quart of wetting, and theyeast. Now stir in slowly two quarts of the flour; cover with a cloth, and set in a temperature of about 75° to rise until morning. Bread mixedat nine in the evening will be ready to mould into loaves or rolls by sixthe next morning. In summer it would be necessary to find a cool place; inwinter a warm one, --the chief point being to keep the temperature _even_. If mixed early in the morning, it is ready to mold and bake in theafternoon, from seven to eight hours being all it should stand. 

This first mixture is called a _sponge_; and, if only a loaf of graham orrye bread is wanted, one quart of it can be measured, and thickened withother flour as in the rules given hereafter. 

To finish as _wheat bread_, stir in enough flour from the two quartsremaining to make a dough. Flour the molding-board very thickly, and turnout. Now begin kneading, flouring the hands, but after the dough isgathered into a smooth lump, using as little flour as may be. Knead withthe palm of the hand as much as possible. The dough quickly becomes a flatcake. Fold it over, and keep on, kneading not less than twenty minutes;half an hour being better. 

Make into loaves; put into the pans; set them in a warm place, and letthem rise from thirty to forty-five minutes, or till they have becomenearly double in size. Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a teaspoonfulof flour in one minute; spreading the flour on a bit of broken plate, thatit may have an even heat. Loaves of this size will bake in from forty-fiveto sixty minutes. Then take them from the pans; wrap in thick cloths keptfor the purpose and stand them, tilted up against the pans till cold. Never lay hot bread on a pine table, as it will sweat, and absorb thepitchy odor and taste; but tilt, so that air may pass around it freely. Keep well covered in a tin box or large stone pot, which should be wipedout every day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly now and then. Pansfor wheat bread should be greased very lightly; for graham or rye, muchmore, as the dough sticks and clings. 

Instead of mixing a sponge, all the flour may be molded in and kneaded atonce, and the dough set to rise in the same way. When light, turn out. Useas little flour as possible, and knead for fifteen minutes; less timebeing required, as part of the kneading has already been done. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

One quart of wheat sponge; one even quart of graham flour; half ateacupful of brown sugar or molasses; half a teaspoonful of soda dissolvedin a little hot water; and half a teaspoonful of salt. 

Pour the sponge in a deep bowl; stir in the molasses, &c, and lastly theflour, which must never be sifted. The mixture should be so stiff, thatthe spoon moves with difficulty. Bake in two loaves for an hour or an hourand a quarter, graham requiring longer baking than wheat. 

If no sponge can be spared, make as follows: One pint of milk or water;half a cup of sugar or molasses; half a cup of yeast; one teaspoonful ofsalt; one cup of wheat flour; two cups of graham. Warm the milk or water;add the yeast and other ingredients, and then the flour; and set in a coolplace--about 60° Fahrenheit--over-night, graham bread souring more easilythan wheat. Early in the morning stir well; put into two deep, well-greased pans; let it rise an hour in a warm place, and bake onehour. 

GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

These are made by the same rule as the bread. Fill the muffin-panstwo-thirds full; let them rise till even with the top of the pans, whichwill take about an hour; and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. To makethem a little nicer, a large spoonful of melted butter may be added, andtwo beaten eggs. This will require longer to rise, as butter clogs theair-cells, and makes the working of the yeast slower. The quantities givenfor bread will make two dozen muffins. 

RYE BREAD. 

This bread is made by nearly the same rule as the graham, either usingwheat sponge, or setting one over-night, but is kneaded slightly. Followthe rule just given, substituting rye for graham, but use enough rye tomake a dough which can be turned out. It will take a quart. Use wheatflour for the molding-board and hands, as rye is very sticky; and kneadonly long enough to get into good shape. Raise, and bake as in rule forgraham bread. 

RYE MUFFINS. 

Make by above rule, but use only one pint of rye flour, adding two eggsand a spoonful of melted butter, and baking in the same way. A set ofearthen cups are excellent for both these and graham muffins, as the heatin baking is more even. They are used also for pop-overs, Sunderlandpuddings, and some small cakes. 

BROWN BREAD. 

Sift together into a deep bowl one even cup of Indian meal, two heapingcups of rye flour, one even teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda. To onepint of hot water add one cup of molasses, and stir till well mixed. Makea hole in the middle of the meal, and stir in the molasses and water, beating all till smooth. Butter a tin pudding-boiler, or a three-pint tinpail, and put in the mixture, setting the boiler into a kettle or saucepanof boiling water. Boil steadily for four hours, keeping the water alwaysat the same level. At the end of that time, take out the boiler, and setin the oven for fifteen minutes to dry and form a crust. Turn out, andserve hot. 

Milk may be used instead of water, or the same mixture raised over-nightwith half a cup of yeast, and then steamed. 

PLAIN ROLLS. 

A pint-bowlful of bread dough will make twelve small rolls. Increaseamount of dough if more are desired. Flour the molding-board lightly, andwork into the dough a piece of butter or lard the size of an egg. Kneadnot less than fifteen minutes, and cut into round cakes, which may beflattened and folded over, if folded or pocket rolls are wanted. In thiscase put a bit of butter or lard the size of a pea between the folds. Fora cleft or French roll make the dough into small round balls, and press aknife-handle almost through the center of each. Put them about an inchapart in well-buttered pans, and let them rise an hour and a half beforebaking. They require more time to rise than large loaves, as, being small, heat penetrates them almost at once, and thus there is very little risingin the oven. 

Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. 

PARKER-HOUSE ROLLS. 

Two quarts of flour; one pint of milk; butter the size of an egg; onetablespoonful of sugar; one teacupful of good yeast; one teaspoonful ofsalt. 

Boil the milk, and add the butter, salt, and sugar. Sift the flour into adeep bowl, and, when the milk is merely blood-warm, stir together withenough of the flour to form a batter or sponge. Do this at nine or ten inthe evening, and set in a cool place, from 50° to 60°. Next morning aboutnine mix in the remainder of the flour; turn on to the molding-board; andknead for twenty minutes, using as little flour as possible. Return to thebowl, and set in cool place again till about four in the afternoon. Kneadagain for fifteen minutes; roll out, and cut into rounds, treating them asin plain rolls. Let them rise one hour, and bake twenty minutes. Onekneading makes a good breakfast roll; but, to secure the peculiar delicacyof a "Parker-House, " two are essential, and they are generally baked as afolded or pocket roll. If baked round, make the dough into a long roll onthe board; cut off small pieces, and make into round balls with the hand, setting them well apart in the pan. 

SODA AND CREAM OF TARTAR BISCUIT. 

One quart of flour; one even teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream of tartar; a piece of lard or butter the size of an egg;and a large cup of milk or water. 

Mix the soda, cream of tartar, and salt with the flour, having firstmashed them fine, and sift all together twice. Rub the shortening in withthe hands till perfectly fine. Add the milk; mix and roll out as quicklyas possible; cut in rounds, and bake in a quick oven. If properly made, they are light as puffs; but their success depends upon thorough and rapidmixing and baking. 

BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. 

Make as above, using two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, instead ofthe soda and cream of tartar. 

BEATEN BISCUIT. 

Three pints of sifted flour; one cup of lard; one teaspoonful of salt. Rubthe lard and flour well together, and make into a very stiff dough withabout a cup of milk or water: a little more may be necessary. Beat thedough with a rolling-pin for half an hour, or run through the littlemachine that comes for the purpose. Make into small biscuit, prick severaltimes, and bake till brown. 

WAFERS. 

One pint of sifted flour; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; half ateaspoonful of salt. 

Rub butter and flour together, and make into dough with half a cup of warmmilk. Beat half an hour with the rolling-pin. Then take a bit of it nolarger than a nut, and roll to the size of a saucer. They can not be toothin. Flour the pans lightly, and bake in a quick oven from five to tenminutes. 

WAFFLES. 

One pint of flour; one teaspoonful of baking powder; half a teaspoonful ofsalt; three eggs; butter the size of an egg; and one and a quarter cups ofmilk. 

Sift salt and baking powder with the flour; rub in the butter. Mix andadd the beaten yolks and milk, and last stir in the whites which have beenbeaten to a stiff froth. Bake at once in well-greased waffle-irons. Byusing two cups of milk, the mixture is right for pancakes. If sour milk isused, substitute soda for the baking powder. Sour cream makes deliciouswaffles. 

RICE OR HOMINY WAFFLES. 

One pint of warm boiled rice or hominy; one cup of sweet or sour milk;butter the size of a walnut; three eggs; one teaspoonful of salt and oneof soda sifted with one pint of flour. 

Stir rice and milk together; add the beaten yolks; then the flour, andlast the whites beaten stiff. By adding a small cup more of milk, ricepancakes can be made. Boiled oatmeal or wheaten grits may be substitutedfor the rice. 

BREAKFAST PUFFS OR POP-OVERS. 

One pint of flour, one pint of milk, and one egg. Stir the milk into theflour; beat the egg very light, and add it, stirring it well in. Meantimehave a set of gem-pans well buttered, heating in the oven. Put in thedough (the material is enough for a dozen puffs), and bake for half anhour in a _very hot oven_. This is one of the simplest but most delicatebreakfast cakes made. Ignorant cooks generally spoil several batches bypersisting in putting in baking powder or soda, as they can not believethat the puffs will rise without. 

SHORT-CAKE. 

One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powdersifted with the flour; one cup of butter, or half lard and half butter;one large cup of hot milk. Rub the butter into the flour. Add the milk, and roll out the dough, cutting in small square cakes and baking to alight brown. 

For a strawberry or peach short-cake have three tin pie-plates buttered;roll the dough to fit them, and bake quickly. Fill either, when done, witha quart of strawberries or raspberries mashed with a cup of sugar, or withpeaches cut fine and sugared, and served hot. 

CORN BREAD. 

Two cups of corn meal; one cup of flour; one teaspoonful of soda and oneof salt; one heaping tablespoonful of butter; a teacup full of sugar;three eggs; two cups of sour milk, the more creamy the better. If sweetmilk is used, substitute baking powder for soda. 

Sift meal, flour, soda, and salt together; beat the yolks of the eggs withthe sugar; add the milk, and stir into the meal; melt the butter, and stirin, beating hard for five minutes. Beat the whites stiff, and stir in, andbake at once either in one large, round loaf, or in tin pie-plates. Theloaf will need half an hour or a little more; the pie-plates, not overtwenty minutes. 

This can be baked as muffins, or, by adding another cup of milk, becomes apancake mixture. 

HOE-CAKE. 

One quart of corn meal; one teaspoon full of salt; one tablespoonful ofmelted lard; one large cup of boiling water. Melt the lard in the water. Mix the salt with the meal, and pour on the water, stirring it into adough. When cool, make either into one large oval cake or two smallerones, and bake in the oven to a bright brown, which will take about halfan hour; or make in small cakes, and bake slowly on a griddle, browningwell on each side. Genuine hoe-cake is baked before an open fire on aboard. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Two cups of buckwheat flour; one of wheat flour; one of corn meal; half acup of yeast; one teaspoonful of salt; one quart of boiling water. Mix thecorn meal and salt, and pour on the boiling water very slowly, that themeal may swell. As soon as merely warm, stir in the sifted flour andyeast. All buckwheat may be used, instead of part wheat flour. Beat well, cover, and put in a cool place, --about 60°. In the morning stir well, andadd half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water. Greasethe griddle with a bit of salt pork on a fork, or a _very little_drippings rubbed over it evenly, but never have it floating with fat, asmany cooks do. Drop in large spoonfuls, and bake and serve _few at atime_, or they will become heavy and unfit to eat. If a cupful of thebatter is saved, no yeast need be used for the next baking, and in coldweather this can be done for a month. 

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 

One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powdersifted with the flour; one pint of huckleberries; half a cup of butter;two eggs; two cups of sweet milk; two cups of sugar. 

Cream the butter, and add the sugar and yolks of eggs; stir in the milk, and add the flour slowly; then beating the whites of the eggs stiff, andadding them. Have the huckleberries picked over, washed, dried, and welldusted with flour. Stir them in last of all; fill the pans three-quartersfull, and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. 

APPLE CAKE. 

Make as above; but, instead of huckleberries, use one pint of sour, tenderapples, cut in thin slices. It is a delicious breakfast or tea cake. 

BROWN-BREAD BREWIS. 

Dry all bits of crust or bread in the oven, browning them nicely. To apint of these, allow one quart of milk, half a cup of butter, and ateaspoonful of salt. Boil the milk; add the butter and salt, and then thebrowned bread, and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, or until perfectlysoft. It is very nice. Bits of white bread or sea biscuit can be used inthe same way. 

CRISPED CRACKERS. 

Split large soft crackers, what is called the "Boston cracker" being best;butter them well as for eating; lay the buttered halves in baking-pans, and brown in a quick oven. Good at any meal. 

SOUR BREAD. 

If, by any mishap, bread has soured a little, make into water toast orbrewis, adding a teaspoonful of soda to the water or milk. 

TO USE DRY BREAD. 

Brown in the oven every scrap that is left, seeing that it does notscorch. Roll while hot and crisp, and sift, using the fine crumbs forcroquettes, &c. , and the coarser ones for puddings and pancakes. Keep dryin glass jars; or tin cans will answer. 

BREAD PANCAKES. 

One cup of coarse crumbs, soaked over-night in a quart of warm milk, ormilk and water. In the morning mash fine, and run through a sieve. Addthree eggs well beaten, half a cup of flour, a large spoonful of sugar, ateaspoonful of salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. If the bread was inthe least sour, add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warmwater. Bake like pancakes, but more slowly. 

TO FRESHEN STALE BREAD OR ROLLS. 

Wrap in a cloth, and steam for ten or fifteen minutes in a steamer. Thendry in the oven. Rolls or biscuits may have the top crust wet with alittle melted butter, and then brown a minute after steaming. 

 * * * * *

CAKE. 

CAKE-MAKING. 

In all cake-making, see that every thing is ready to your hand, --pansbuttered, or papered if necessary; flour sifted; all spices and othermaterials on your working-table; and the fire in good order. 

No matter how plain the cake, there is a certain order in mixing, which, if followed, produces the best result from the materials used; and thisorder is easily reduced to rules. 

First, always cream the butter; that is, stir it till light and creamy. Ifvery cold, heat the bowl a little, but never enough to melt, only tosoften the butter. Second, add the sugar to the butter, and mixthoroughly. 

Third, if eggs are used, beat yolks and whites separately for a delicatecake; add yolks to sugar and butter, and beat together a minute. For aplain cake, beat yolks and whites together (a Dover egg-beater doing thisbetter than any thing else can), and add to butter and sugar. 

Fourth, if milk is used, add this. 

Fifth, stir in the measure of flour little by little, and beat smooth. 

Flavoring may be added at any time. If dry spices are used, mix them withthe sugar. Always sift baking powder with the flour. If soda and cream oftartar are used, sift the cream of tartar with the flour, and dissolve thesoda in a little milk or warm water. For very delicate cakes, powderedsugar is best. For gingerbreads and small cakes or cookies, light brownanswers. 

Where fruit cake is to be made, raisins should be stoned and chopped, andcurrants washed and dried, the day beforehand. A cup of currants being anice and inexpensive addition to buns or any plain cake, it is well toprepare several pounds at once, drying thoroughly, and keeping in glassjars. Being the very dirtiest article known to the storeroom, currantsrequire at least three washings in warm water, rubbing them well in thehands. Then spread them out on a towel, and proceed to pick out all thesticks, grit, small stones, and legs and wings to be found; then put thefruit into a slow oven, and dry it carefully, that none may scorch. 

In baking, a moderate oven is one in which a teaspoonful of flour willbrown while you count thirty; a quick one, where but twelve can becounted. 

The "cup" used in all these receipts is the ordinary kitchen cup, holdinghalf a pint. The measures of flour are, in all cases, of _sifted flour_, which can be sifted by the quantity, and kept in a wooden pail. "Preparedflour" is especially nice for doughnuts and plain cakes. No great varietyof receipts is given, as every family is sure to have one enthusiasticcake-maker who gleans from all sources; and this book aims to give fullerspace to substantials than to sweets. Half the energy spent by manyhousekeepers upon cake would insure the perfect bread, which, nine timesout of ten, is not found upon their tables, and success in which theycount an impossibility. If cake is to be made, however, let it be done inthe most perfect way; seeing only that bread is first irreproachable. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

One pound of the finest granulated, or of powdered, sugar; half a pound ofsifted flour; ten eggs; grated rind of two lemons, and the juice of one;and a saltspoonful of salt. 

Break the eggs, yolks and whites separately, and beat the yolks to acreamy froth. Beat the whites till they can be turned upside down withoutspilling. Put yolks and whites together, and beat till blended; then addthe sugar slowly; then the lemon rind and juice and the salt, and last theflour. Whisk together as lightly and quickly as possible. Turn into eitherthree buttered bread-pans of the size given on p. 201, or bake in a largeloaf, as preferred. Fill the pans two-thirds full, and, when in the oven, do not open it for ten minutes. Bake about half an hour, and test byrunning a clean broom-straw into the loaf. If it comes out dry, they aredone. Turn out, and cool on a sieve, or on the pans turned upside down. 

ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 

Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; one heaped cup of sugar;one scant cup of flour in which a teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinchof salt have been sifted; quarter of a cup of boiling water. 

Mix as in sponge cake; add the water last, and bake in a largeroasting-pan, spreading the batter as thinly as possible. It will bake inten minutes. When done, and while still hot, spread with any acid jelly, and roll carefully from one side. This cake is nice for liningCharlotte-Russe molds also. For that purpose the water may be omitted, itsonly use being to make the cake roll more easily. 

CUP CAKE. 

One cup of butter; two cups of sugar; four eggs, yolks and whites beatenseparately; one cup of milk; three and a half cups of flour; a gratednutmeg, or a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon; and a heaping teaspoonful ofbaking powder. 

Cream the butter; add the sugar, and then the yolks; then the milk and thewhites, and last the flour, in which the baking powder has been sifted. Bake half an hour, either in two brick loaves or one large one. It isnice, also, baked in little tins. Half may be flavored with essence, andthe other half with a teaspoonful of mixed spice, --half cinnamon, and therest mace and allspice. By using a heaping tablespoonful of yellow ginger, this becomes a delicious sugar gingerbread, or, with mixed spices andginger, a spice gingerbread. 

This cake with the variations upon it makes up page after page in thelarge cook-books. Use but half a cup of butter, and you have a plain _CupCake_. Add a cup of currants and one of chopped raisins, and it is plain_Fruit Cake_, needing to bake one hour. Bake on Washington-pie tins, andyou have the foundation for _Cream_ and _Jelly Cakes_. A littleexperience, and then invention, will show you how varied are thecombinations, and how one page in your cook-book can do duty for twenty. 

POUND CAKE. 

One pound of sugar; one pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound ofbutter; nine eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder, and one of lemonextract; one nutmeg grated. 

Cream the butter, and add half the flour, sifting the baking powder withthe other half. Beat the yolks to a creamy foam, and add; and then thesugar, beating hard. Have the whites a stiff froth, and stir in, addingflavoring and remainder of flour. Bake in one large loaf for one hour, letting the oven be moderate. Frost, if liked. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

One pound of butter; one pound of sugar; one pound and a quarter of siftedflour; ten eggs; two nutmegs grated; a tablespoonful each of groundcloves, cinnamon, and allspice; a teaspoonful of soda; a cup of brandy orwine, and one of dark molasses; one pound of citron; two pounds of stonedand chopped raisins, and two of currants washed and dried. 

Dredge the prepared fruit with enough of the flour to coat it thoroughly. To have the cake very dark and rich looking, brown the flour a little, taking great care not to scorch it. Cream the butter, and add the sugar, in which the spices have been mixed; then the beaten yolks of eggs; thenthe whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the flour. Dissolve the soda in avery little warm water, and add. Now stir in the fruit. Have either onelarge, round pan, or two smaller ones. Put at least three thicknesses ofbuttered letter-paper on the sides and bottom; turn in the mixture, andbake for three hours in a moderate oven. Cover with thick paper if thereis the least danger of scorching. This will keep, if well frosted, for twoyears. 

DOVER CAKE. 

One pound of flour; one pound of sugar; half a pound of butter; one teacupof milk; six eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder; one grated nutmeg. 

Cream the butter; add first sugar, then beaten yolks of eggs and milk, then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and last the flour. Bakeforty-five minutes in a large dripping-pan, sifting fine sugar over thetop, and cut in small squares; or it may be baked in one round loaf, andfrosted on the bottom, or in small tins. Half a pound of citron cut fineis often added. 

WHITE OR SILVER CAKE. 

Half a cup of butter; a heaping cupful of powdered sugar; two cups offlour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in; half a cup of milk;whites of six eggs; one teaspoonful of almond extract. 

Cream the butter, and add the flour, beating till it is a smooth paste. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add the sugar and essence. Now mixboth quickly, and bake in a sheet about an inch and a half thick. Abouthalf an hour will be needed. Frost while hot, with one white of egg, beaten ten minutes with a small cup of sifted powdered sugar, and juiceof half a lemon. This frosting hardens very quickly. Before it is quitehard, divide it into oblong or square pieces, scoring at intervals withthe back of a large knife. The milk can be omitted if a richer cake iswanted. It may also be baked in jelly-cake tins; one small cocoanutgrated, and mixed with one cup of sugar, and spread between, and the wholefrosted. Or beat the white of an egg with one cup of sugar, and the juiceof one large or two small oranges, and spread between. Either form isdelicious. 

GOLD CAKE. 

One cup of sugar; half a cup of butter; two cups of flour; yolks of sixeggs; grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful ofsoda, mixed with the flour, and sifted twice. 

Cream the butter; add the sugar, then the beaten yolks and the flour, beating hard for several minutes. Last, add the lemon or orange juice, andbake like silver cake; frosting, if liked. If frosting is made for eitheror both cakes, the extra yolks may be used in making this one, eight beingstill nicer than six. 

BREAD CAKE. 

Two cups or a pint-bowlful of raised dough ready for baking; one cup ofbutter; two cups of sugar; one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or half anutmeg grated; three eggs; one teaspoonful of soda in quarter of a cup ofwarm water, and half a cup of flour. 

Cream the butter, and add the sugar. Then put in the bread dough, and worktogether till well mixed. The hand is best for this, though it can be donewith a wooden spoon. Add the eggs, then the flour, and last the soda. Letit stand in a warm place for one hour, and bake in a moderate ovenforty-five minutes, testing with a broom-straw. A pound of stoned andchopped raisins is a nice addition. Omitting them, and adding flour enoughto roll out, makes an excellent raised doughnut or bun. Let it rise twohours; then cut in shapes, and fry in boiling lard. Or, for buns, bake ina quick oven, and, a minute before taking out, brush the top with aspoonful of sugar and milk mixed together. 

PLAIN BUNS. 

One pint-bowlful of dough; one cup of sugar; butter the size of an egg;one teaspoonful of cinnamon. 

Boll the dough thin. Spread the butter upon it. Mix sugar and cinnamontogether, and sprinkle on it. Now turn over the edges of the doughcarefully to keep the sugar in, and press and work gently for a fewminutes, that it may not break through. Knead till thoroughly mixed. Rollout; cut like biscuit, and let them rise an hour, baking in a quick oven. 

The same rule can be used for raised doughnuts. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

First put on the lard, and let it be heating gradually. To test it whenhot, drop in a bit of bread; if it browns as you count twenty, it isright. Never let it boil furiously, or scorch. This is the rule for allfrying, whether fritters, croquettes, or cakes. 

One quart of flour into which has been sifted a teaspoonful of salt, andone of soda if sour milk is used, or two of baking powder if sweet milk. If cream can be had, use part cream, allowing one large cup of milk, orcream and milk. One heaping cup of fine brown sugar; one teaspoonful ofground cinnamon, and half a one of mace or nutmeg; use one spoonful ofbutter, if you have no cream, stirring it into the sugar. Add two or threebeaten eggs; mixing all as in general directions for cake. They can bemade without eggs. Roll out; cut in shapes, and fry brown, taking them outwith a fork into a sieve set over a pan that all fat may drain off. 

Cut thin, and baked brown in a quick oven, these make a good plain cooky. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

One cup of butter and lard or dripping mixed, or dripping alone can beused; one cup of molasses; one cup of brown sugar; two teaspoonfuls ofginger, and one each of clove, allspice, and mace; one teaspoonful ofsalt, and one of soda dissolved in half a cup of hot water; one egg. 

Stir together the shortening, sugar, molasses, and spice. Add the soda, and then sifted flour enough to make a dough, --about three pints. Turn onto the board, and knead well. Take about quarter of it, and roll out thinas a knife-blade. Bake in a quick oven. They will bake in five minutes, and will keep for months. By using only four cups of flour, this can bebaked in a loaf as spiced gingerbread; or it can be rolled half an inchthick, and baked as a cooky. In this, as in all cakes, experience willteach you many variations. 

PLAIN GINGERBREAD. 

Two cups of molasses; one of sour milk; half a cup of lard or drippings;four cups of flour; two teaspoonfuls of ginger, and one of cinnamon; halfa teaspoonful of salt; one egg, and a teaspoonful of soda. 

Mix molasses and shortening; add the spice and egg, then the milk, andlast the flour, with soda sifted in it. Bake at once in a sheet about aninch thick for half an hour. Try with a broom-straw. Good hot for lunchwith chocolate. A plain cooky is made by adding flour enough to roll out. The egg may be omitted. 

JUMBLES. 

The richest jumbles are made from either the rule for Pound or Dover Cake, with flour enough added to roll out. The Cup-Cake rule makes good butplainer ones. Make rings, either by cutting in long strips and joining theends, or by using a large and small cutter. Sift sugar over the top, andbake a delicate brown. By adding a large spoonful of yellow ginger, any ofthese rules become hard sugar-gingerbread, and all will keep for a longtime. 

DROP CAKES. 

Any of the rules last mentioned become drop cakes by buttering muffin-tinsor tin sheets, and dropping a teaspoonful of these mixtures into them. Ifon sheets, let them be two inches apart. Sift sugar over the top, and bakein a quick oven. They are done as soon as brown. 

CREAM CAKES. 

One pint of boiling water in a saucepan. Melt in it a piece of butter thesize of an egg. Add half a teaspoonful of salt. While still boiling, stirin one large cup of flour, and cook for three minutes. Take from the fire;cool ten minutes; then break in, one by one, six eggs, and beat tillsmooth. Have muffin-pans buttered, or large baking-sheets. Drop a spoonfulof the mixture on them, allowing room to spread, and bake half an hour ina quick oven. Cool on a sieve, and, when cool, fill with a cream made asbelow. 

FILLING FOR CREAM CAKES. 

One pint of milk, one cup of sugar, two eggs, half a cup of flour, and apiece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Mix the sugar and flour, add the beaten eggs, and beat all till smooth. Stir into the boiling milk with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil forfifteen minutes. When cold, add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon. Make aslit in each cake, and fill with the cream. Corn-starch may be usedinstead of flour. This makes a very nice filling for plain cup cake bakedon jelly-cake tins. 

MERINGUES, OR KISSES. 

Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth; quarter of a pound of siftedpowdered sugar; a few drops of vanilla. 

Add the sugar to the whites. Have ready a hard-wood board which fits theoven. Wet the top well with boiling water, and cover it with sheets ofletter-paper. Drop the meringue mixture on this in large spoonfuls, andset in a _very slow_ oven. The secret of a good meringue is to _dry_, notbake; and they should be in the oven at least half an hour. Take them outwhen dry. Slip a thin, sharp knife under each one, and put two together;or scoop out the soft part very carefully, and fill with a little jelly orwith whipped cream. 

PASTRY AND PIES. 

In the first place, don't make either, except very semi-occasionally. Pastry, even when good, is so indigestible that children should never haveit, and their elders but seldom. A nice short-cake made as on p. 209, andfilled with stewed fruit, or with fresh berries mashed and sweetened, isquite as agreeable to eat, and far more wholesome. But, as people _will_both make and eat pie-crust, the best rules known are given. 

Butter, being more wholesome than lard, should always be used if it can beafforded. A mixture of lard and butter is next best. Clarified drippingmakes a good crust for meat pies, and cream can also be used. Fordumplings nothing can be better than a light biscuit-crust, made as on p. 208. It is also good for meat pies. 

PLAIN PIE-CRUST. 

One quart of flour; one even teacup of lard, and one of butter; one teacupof ice-water or very cold water; and a teaspooonful of salt. 

Rub the lard and salt into the flour till it is dry and crumbly. Add theice-water, and work to a smooth dough. Wash the butter, and have it coldand firm as possible. Divide it in three parts. Roll out the paste, anddot it all over with bits from one part of the butter. Sprinkle withflour, and roll up. Roll out, and repeat till the butter is gone. If thecrust can now stand on the ice for half an hour, it will be nicer and moreflaky. This amount will make three good-sized pies. Enough for the bottomcrusts can be taken off after one rolling in of butter, thus making thetop crust richer. Lard alone will make a tender, but not a flaky, paste. 

PUFF PASTE. 

One pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; one teacupful ofice-water; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; yolk of one egg. 

Wash the butter; divide into three parts, reserving a bit the size of anegg; and put it on the ice for an hour. Rub the bit of butter, the salt, and sugar, into the flour, and stir in the ice-water and egg beatentogether. Make into a dough, and knead on the molding-board till glossyand firm: at least ten minutes will be required. Roll out into a sheet tenor twelve inches square. Cut a cake of the ice-cold butter in thin slices, or flatten it very thin with the rolling-pin. Lay it on the paste, sprinkle with flour, and fold over the edges. Press it in somewhat withthe rolling-pin, and roll out again. Always roll _from_ you. Do this againand again till the butter is all used, rolling up the paste after the lastcake is in, and then putting it on the ice for an hour or more. Havefilling all ready, and let the paste be as nearly ice-cold as possiblewhen it goes into the oven. There are much more elaborate rules; but thisinsures handsome paste. Make a plainer one for the bottom crusts. Coverpuff paste with a damp cloth, and it may be kept on the ice a day or twobefore baking. 

PATTIES FROM PUFF PASTE. 

Roll the paste about a third of an inch thick, and cut out with a round oroval cutter about two inches in diameter. Take a cutter half an inchsmaller, and press it into the piece already cut out, so as to sinkhalf-way through the crust: this to mark out the top piece. Lay on tins, and bake to a delicate brown. They should treble in thickness by rising, and require from twenty minutes to half an hour to bake. When done, themarked-out top can easily be removed. Take out the soft inside, and fillwith sweetmeats for dessert, or with minced chicken or oysters prepared ason p. 140. 

GRANDMOTHER'S APPLE PIE. 

Line a deep pie-plate with plain paste. Pare sour apples, --greenings arebest; quarter, and cut in thin slices. Allow one cup of sugar, and quarterof a grated nutmeg mixed with it. Fill the pie-plate heaping full of thesliced apple, sprinkling the sugar between the layers. It will require notless than six good-sized apples. Wet the edges of the pie with cold water;lay on the cover, and press down securely, that no juice may escape. Bakethree-quarters of an hour, or a little less if the apples are very tender. No pie in which the apples are stewed beforehand can compare with this inflavor. If they are used, stew till tender, and strain. Sweeten and flavorto taste. Fill the pies, and bake half an hour. 

DRIED-APPLE PIES. 

Wash one pint of dried apples, and put in a porcelain kettle with twoquarts of warm water. Let them stand all night. In the morning put on thefire, and stew slowly for an hour. Then add one pint of sugar, ateaspoonful of dried lemon or orange rind, or half a fresh lemon sliced, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Stew half an hour longer, and then usefor filling the pies. The apple can be strained if preferred, and ateaspoonful of butter added. This quantity will make two pies. Driedpeaches are treated in the same way. 

LEMON PIES. 

Three lemons, juice of all and the grated rind of two; two cups of sugar;three cups of boiling water; three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolvedin a little cold water; three eggs; a piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Pour the boiling water on the dissolved corn-starch, and boil for fiveminutes. Add the sugar and butter, the yolks of the eggs beaten to afroth, and last the lemon juice and rind. Line the plates with crust, putting a narrow rim of it around each one. Pour in the filling, and bakehalf an hour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add half a teacup ofpowdered sugar and ten drops of lemon extract, and, when the pie is baked, spread this on. The heat will cook it sufficiently, but it can be browneda moment in the oven. If to be kept a day, do not make the frosting tilljust before using. The whites will keep in a cold place. Orange pie can bemade in the same way. 

SWEET-POTATO PIE OR PUDDING. 

One pound of hot, boiled sweet potato rubbed through a sieve; one cup ofbutter; one heaping cup of sugar; half a grated nutmeg; one glass ofbrandy; a pinch of salt; six eggs. 

Add the sugar, spice, and butter to the hot potato. Beat whites and yolksseparately, and add, and last the brandy. Line deep plates with nicepaste, making a rim of puff paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake tillthe crust is done, --about half an hour. Wickedly rich, but verydelicious. Irish potatoes can be treated in the same way, and are moredelicate. 

SQUASH OR PUMPKIN PIE. 

Prepare and steam as in directions on p. 194. Strain through a sieve. To aquart of the strained squash add one quart of new milk, with a spoonful ortwo of cream if possible; one heaping cup of sugar into which has beenstirred a teaspoonful of salt, a heaping one of ginger, and half a one ofcinnamon. Mix this with the squash, and add from two to four well-beateneggs. Bake in deep plates lined with plain pie-crust. They are done when aknife-blade on being run into the middle comes out clean. About fortyminutes will be enough. For pumpkin pie half a cup of molasses may beadded, and the eggs can be omitted, substituting half a cup of flour mixedwith the sugar and spice before stirring in. A teaspoonful of butter canalso be added. 

CHERRY AND BERRY PIES. 

Have a very deep plate, and either no under crust save a rim, or a verythin one. Allow a cup of sugar to a quart of fruit, but no spices. Stonecherries. Prick the upper crust half a dozen times with a fork to let outthe steam. 

For rhubarb or pie-plant pies, peel the stalks; cut them in little bits, and fill the pie. Bake with an upper crust. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

Line and rim deep plates with pastry, a thin custard pie being very poor. Beat together a teacupful of sugar, four eggs, and a pinch of salt, andmix slowly with one quart of milk. Fill the plate up to the pastry rim_after it is in the oven_, and bake till the custard is firm, trying, asfor squash pies, with a knife-blade. 

MINCE-MEAT FOR PIES. 

Two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef, or a small beef-tongue, boiledthe day beforehand, cooled and chopped; one pound of beef-suet, freed fromall strings, and chopped fine as powder; two pounds of raisins stoned andchopped; one pound of currants washed and dried; six pounds of choppedapples; half a pound of citron cut in slips; two pounds of brown sugar;one pint of molasses; one quart of boiled cider; one pint of wine orbrandy, or a pint of any nice sirup from sweet pickles may be substituted;two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt; one teaspoonful of pepper; threetablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon; two of allspice; one of clove; one ofmace; three grated nutmegs; grated rind and juice of three lemons; acupful of chopped, candied orange or lemon peel. 

Mix spices and salt with sugar, and stir into the meat and suet. Add theapples, and then the cider and other wetting, stirring very thoroughly. Lastly, mix in the fruit. Fill and bake as in apple pies. This mince-meatwill keep two months easily. If it ferments at all, put over the fire in aporcelain-lined kettle, and boil half an hour. Taste, and judge foryourselves whether more or less spice is needed. Butter can be usedinstead of suet, and proportions varied to taste. 

RAMMEKINS, OR CHEESE STRAWS. 

One pound of puff paste; one cup of good grated cheese. Roll the pastehalf an inch thick; sprinkle on half the cheese; press in lightly with therolling-pin; roll up, and roll out again, using the other half of thecheese. Fold, and roll about a third of an inch thick. Cut in long, narrowstrips, four or five inches long and half an inch wide, and bake in aquick oven to a delicate brown. Excellent with chocolate at lunch, or fordessert with fruit. 

 * * * * *

PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

For boiled puddings a regular pudding-boiler holding from three pints totwo quarts is best, a tin pail with a very tight-fitting cover answeringinstead, though not as good. For large dumplings a thickpudding-cloth--the best being of Canton flannel, used with the nap-sideout--should be dipped in hot water, and wrung out, dredged evenly andthickly with flour, and laid over a large bowl. From half tothree-quarters of a yard square is a good size. In filling this, pile thefruit or berries on the rolled-out crust which has been laid in the middleof the cloth, and gather the edges of the paste evenly over it. Thengather the cloth up, leaving room for the dumpling to swell, and tyingvery tightly. In turning out, lift to a dish; press all the water from theends of the cloth; untie and turn away from the pudding, and lay a hotdish upon it, turning over the pudding into it, and serving at once, as itdarkens or falls by standing. 

In using a boiler, butter well, and fill only two-thirds full that themixture may have room to swell. Set it in boiling water, and see that itis kept at the same height, about an inch from the top. Cover the outerkettle that the steam may be kept in. Small dumplings, with a single appleor peach in each, can be cooked in a steamer. Puddings are not only muchmore wholesome, but less expensive than pies. 

APPLE DUMPLING. 

Make a crust, as for biscuit, or a potato-crust as follows: Three largepotatoes, boiled and mashed while hot. Add to them two cups of siftedflour and one teaspoonful of salt, and mix thoroughly. Now chop or cutinto it one small cup of butter, and mix into a paste with about ateacupful of cold water. Dredge the board thick with flour, and rollout, --thick in the middle, and thin at the edges. Fill, as directed, withapples pared and quartered, eight or ten good-sized ones being enough forthis amount of crust. Boil for three hours. Turn out as directed, and eatwith butter and sirup or with a made sauce. Peaches pared and halved, orcanned ones drained from the sirup, can be used. In this case, prepare thesirup for sauce, as on p. 172. Blueberries are excellent in the same way. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING, OR CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 

One pound of raisins stoned and cut in two; one pound of currants washedand dried; one pound of beef-suet chopped very fine; one pound ofbread-crumbs; one pound of flour; half a pound of brown sugar; eight eggs;one pint of sweet milk; one teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful ofcinnamon; two grated nutmegs; a glass each of wine and brandy. 

Prepare the fruit, and dredge thickly with flour. Soak the bread in themilk; beat the eggs, and add. Stir in the rest of the flour, the suet, andlast the fruit. Boil six hours either in a cloth or large mold. Half theamounts given makes a good-sized pudding; but, as it will keep threemonths, it might be boiled in two molds. Serve with a rich sauce. 

ANY-DAY PLUM PUDDING. 

One cup of sweet milk; one cup of molasses; one cup each of raisins andcurrants; one cup of suet chopped fine, or, instead, a small cup ofbutter; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda, sifted with three cupsof flour; one teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. 

Mix milk, molasses, suet, and spice; add flour, and then the fruit. Put ina buttered mold, and boil three hours. Eat with hard or liquid sauce. Acupful each of prunes and dates or figs can be substituted for the fruit, and is very nice; and the same amount of dried apple, measured aftersoaking and chopping, is also good. Or the fruit can be omittedaltogether, in which case it becomes "Troy Pudding. "

BATTER PUDDING, BOILED OR BAKED. 

Two cups of flour in which is sifted a heaping teaspoonful of bakingpowder, two cups of sweet milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt. Stirthe flour gradually into the milk, and beat hard for five minutes. Beatyolks and whites separately, and then add to batter. Have thepudding-boiler buttered. Pour in the batter, and boil steadily for twohours. It may also be baked an hour in a buttered pudding-dish. Serve atonce, when done, with a liquid sauce. 

SUNDERLAND PUDDINGS. 

Are merely puffs or pop-overs eaten with sauce. See p. 209. 

BREAD PUDDING. 

One cup of dried and rolled bread-crumbs, or one pint of fresh ones; onequart of milk; two eggs; one cup of sugar; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon;a little grated nutmeg; a saltspoonful of salt. 

Soak the crumbs in the milk for an hour or two; mix the spice and saltwith the sugar, and beat the eggs with it, stirring them slowly into themilk. Butter a pudding-dish; pour in the mixture; and bake half an hour, or till done. Try with a knife-blade, as in general directions. The whitesmay be kept out for a meringue, allowing half a teacup of powdered sugarto them. By using fresh bread-crumbs and four eggs, this becomes what isknown as "Queen of Puddings. " As soon as done, spread the top with half acup of any acid jelly, and cover with the whites which have been beatenstiff, with a teacupful of sugar. Brown slightly in the oven. Half a poundof raisins may be added. 

BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. 

Fill a pudding-dish two-thirds full with very thin slices of bread andbutter. A cupful of currants or dried cherries may be sprinkled betweenthe slices. Make a custard of two eggs beaten with a cup of sugar; add aquart of milk, and pour over the bread. Cover with a plate, and set on theback of the stove an hour; then bake from half to three-quarters of anhour. Serve very hot, as it falls when cool. 

BREAD-AND-APPLE PUDDING. 

Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put first a layer of crumbs, then one ofany good acid apple, sliced rather thin, and so on till the dish is nearlyfull. Six or eight apples and a quart of fresh crumbs will fill atwo-quart dish. Dissolve a cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of cinnamon inone pint of boiling water, and pour into the dish. Let the pudding standhalf an hour to swell; then bake till brown, --about three-quarters of anhour, --and eat with liquid sauce. It can be made with slices of bread andbutter, instead of crumbs. 

BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING. 

Wash one teacupful of tapioca, and put it in one quart of cold water tosoak for several hours. Pare and core as many good apples as will fit in atwo-quart buttered pudding-dish. When the tapioca is softened, add acupful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, andpour over the apples. Bake an hour, and eat with or without sauce. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

One quart of milk; one teacupful of tapioca; three eggs; a cup of sugar; ateaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of butter; a teaspoonful of lemonextract. 

Wash the tapioca, and soak in the milk for two hours, setting it on theback of the stove to swell. Beat eggs and sugar together, reserving whitesfor a meringue if liked; melt the butter, and add, and stir into the milk. Bake half an hour. Sago pudding is made in the same way. 

TAPIOCA CREAM. 

One teacupful of tapioca washed and soaked over-night in one pint of warmwater. Next morning add a quart of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, andboil in a milk-boiler for two hours. Just before taking it from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and three eggsbeaten with a cup of sugar. The whites may be made in a meringue. Pourinto a glass dish which has had warm water standing in it, to preventcracking, and eat cold. Rice or sago cream is made in the same way. 

PLAIN RICE PUDDING. 

One cup of rice; three pints of milk; one heaping cup of sugar; oneteaspoonful of salt. 

Wash the rice well. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, and stir rice, sugar, and salt together. Pour on the milk. Grate nutmeg over it, and bake forthree hours. Very good. 

MINUTE PUDDING. 

One quart of milk; one pint of flour; two eggs; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, and add the flour slowly, with enough of the milk to make it smooth. Stir into the boiling milk, andcook it half an hour. Eat with liquid sauce or sirup. It is often madewithout eggs. 

CORN-STARCH PUDDING. 

One quart of milk; four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch; one cup of sugar;three eggs; a teaspoonful each of salt and vanilla. 

Boil the milk; dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold milk, and add. Cook five minutes, and add the eggs and flavoring beaten with the sugar. Turn into a buttered dish, and bake fifteen minutes, covering then with ameringue made of the whites, or cool in molds, in this case using only thewhites of the eggs. The yolks can be made in a custard to pour aroundthem. A cup of grated cocoanut can be added, or two teaspoonfuls ofchocolate stirred smooth in a little boiling water. 

GELATINE PUDDING. 

Four eggs; one pint of milk; one cup of sugar; a saltspoonful of salt; ateaspoonful of lemon or vanilla; a third of a box of gelatine. 

Soak the gelatine a few minutes in a little cold water, and then dissolveit in three-quarters of a cup of boiling water. Have ready a custard madefrom the milk and yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together, and stir into the boiling milk. When cold, add the gelatine water and thewhites of the eggs beaten very stiff. Pour into molds. It is both prettyand good. 

CABINET PUDDING. 

One quart of milk; half a package of gelatine; a teaspoonful each of saltand vanilla; a cup of sugar. 

Boil the milk; soak the gelatine fifteen minutes in a little cold water;dissolve in the boiling milk, and add the sugar and salt. Now butter aCharlotte-Russe mold thickly. Cut slips of citron into leaves or prettyshapes, and stick on the mold. Fill it lightly with any light cake, eitherplain or rich. Strain on the gelatine and milk, and set in a cold place. Turn out before serving. Delicate crackers may be used instead of cake. 

CORN-MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING. 

One quart of milk; one cup of sifted corn meal; one cup of molasses (not"sirup"); one teaspoonful of salt. 

Stir meal, salt, and molasses together. Boil the milk, and add slowly. Butter a pudding-dish, and pour in the mixture; adding, after it is set inthe oven, one cup of cold milk poured over the top. Bake three hours in amoderate oven. 

 * * * * *

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 

BAKED CUSTARD. 

One quart of milk; four eggs; one teacup of sugar; half a teaspoonful ofsalt; nutmeg. 

Boil the milk. Beat the eggs very light, and add the sugar and salt. Pouron the milk very slowly, stirring constantly. Bake in a pudding-dish or incups. If in cups, set them in a baking-pan, and half fill it with boilingwater. Grate nutmeg over each. The secret of a good custard is in slowbaking and the most careful watching. Test often with a knife-blade, anddo not bake an instant after the blade comes out smooth and clean. To beeaten cold. Six eggs are generally used; but four are plenty. 

BOILED CUSTARD. 

One quart of milk; three or four eggs; one cup of sugar; one teaspoonfulof vanilla; half a teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. 

Boil the milk. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold water, and boilin the milk five minutes. It prevents the custard from curdling, whichotherwise it is very apt to do. Beat the eggs and sugar well together, stir into the milk, and add the salt and flavoring. Take at once from thefire, and, when cool, pour either into a large glass dish, covering with ameringue of the whites, or into small glasses with a little jelly or jamat the bottom of each. Or the whites can be used in making an apple-float, as below, and the yolks for the custard. 

For _Cocoanut Custard_ add a cup of grated cocoanut; for _Chocolate_, twotablespoonfuls of grated chocolate dissolved in half a cup of boilingwater. 

TIPSY PUDDING. 

Make a boiled custard as directed. Half fill a deep dish with any light, stale cake. Add to a teacup of wine a teacup of boiling water, and pourover it. Add the custard just before serving. 

APPLE FLOAT. 

Six good, acid apples stewed and strained. When cold, add a teacupful ofsugar, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and the beaten whites of three orfour eggs. Serve at once. 

BLANCMANGE. 

One quart of milk; one cup of sugar; half a package of gelatine; half ateaspoonful of salt; a teaspoonful of any essence liked. 

Soak the gelatine ten minutes in half a cup of cold water. Boil the milk, and add gelatine and the other ingredients. Strain into molds, and let itstand in a cold place all night to harden. For chocolate blancmange addtwo tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate dissolved in a little boilingwater. 

SPANISH CREAM. 

Make a blancmange as on p. 238; but, just before taking from the fire, addthe yolks of four eggs, and then strain. The whites can be used formeringues. 

WHIPPED CREAM. 

One pint of rich cream; one cup of sugar; one glass of sherry or Madeira. 

Mix all, and put on the ice an hour, as cream whips much better whenchilled. Using a whip-churn enables it to be done in a few minutes; but afork or egg-beater will answer. Skim off all the froth as it rises, andlay on a sieve to drain, returning the cream which drips away to bewhipped over again. Set on the ice a short time before serving. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Make a sponge cake as on p. 216, and line a Charlotte mold with it, cutting a piece the size of the bottom, and fitting the rest around thesides. Fill with cream whipped as above, and let it stand on the ice toset a little. This is the easiest form of Charlotte. It is improved by thebeaten whites of three eggs stirred into the cream. Flavor with half ateaspoonful of vanilla if liked. 

BAVARIAN CREAM. 

Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil a pint of rich milk with ateacupful of sugar, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Soak half a box ofgelatine for an hour in half a cup of warm water, and add to the milk. Addthe yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and take from the fire instantly. 

When cold and just beginning to thicken, stir in the whipped cream. Putin molds, and set in a cold place. This can be used also for fillingCharlotte Russe. For chocolate add chocolate as directed in rule forboiled custard; for coffee, one teacup of clear, strong coffee. 

STRAWBERRY CREAM. 

Three pints of strawberries mashed fine. Strain the juice, and add aheaping cup of sugar, and then gelatine soaked as above, and dissolved ina teacup of boiling water. Add the pint of whipped cream, and pour intomolds. 

FRUIT CREAMS. 

Half a pint of peach or pine-apple marmalade stirred smooth with ateacupful of sweet cream. Add gelatine dissolved as in rule for strawberrycream, and, when cold, the pint of whipped cream. These creams are verydelicious, and not as expensive as rich pastry. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE. 

Six whites and three yolks of eggs; three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugarsifted; a few drops of lemon or vanilla. Beat the yolks, flavoring, andsugar to a light cream; beat the whites to the stiffest froth. Have theyolks in a deep bowl. Turn the whites on to them, and do not stir, butmix, by cutting down through the middle, and gradually mixing white andyellow. Turn on to a tin or earthen baking-dish with high sides, and bakein a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes. It will rise very high, and must be served the instant it is done, to avoid its falling. 

FRIED CREAM. 

One pint of milk; half a cup of sugar; yolks of three eggs; twotablespoonfuls of corn-starch and one of flour mixed; half a teaspoonfulof vanilla, and two inches of stick-cinnamon; a teaspoonful of butter. 

Boil the cinnamon in the milk. Stir the corn-starch and flour smooth in alittle cold milk or water, and add to the milk. Beat the yolks light withthe sugar, and add. Take from the fire; take out the cinnamon, and stir inthe butter and vanilla, and pour out on a buttered tin or dish, letting itbe about half an inch thick. When cold and stiff, cut into pieces aboutthree inches long and two wide. Dip carefully in sifted cracker-crumbs;then in a beaten egg, and in crumbs again, and fry like croquettes. Dry inthe oven four or five minutes, and serve at once. Very delicious. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 

Make a batter as on p. 208. Take the fruit from a small can of peaches, lay it on a plate, and sprinkle with a spoonful of sugar and a glass ofwine. Let it lie an hour, turning it once. Dip each piece in batter, anddrop in boiling lard, or chop and mix with batter. Prepare the juice for asauce as on p. 172. Fresh peaches or slices of tender apple can be used inthe same way. Drain on brown paper, and sift sugar over them, before theygo to table. 

FREEZING OF ICE CREAM AND ICES. 

With a patent freezer ice cream and ices can be prepared with less troublethan puff paste. The essential points are the use of rock-salt, andpounding the ice into small bits. Set the freezer in the centre of thetub. Put a layer of ice three inches deep, then of salt, and so on tillthe tub is full, ending with ice. Put in the cream, and turn for tenminutes, or till you can not turn the beater. Then take off the cover, scrape down the sides, and beat like cake for at least five minutes. Packthe tub again, having let off all water; cover with a piece of old carpet. If molds are used, fill as soon as the cream is frozen; pack them full ofit, and lay in ice and salt. When ready to turn out, dip in warm water amoment. Handle gently, and serve at once. 

ICE CREAM OF CREAM. 

To a gallon of sweet cream add two and a quarter pounds of sugar, and fourtablespoonfuls of vanilla or other extract, as freezing destroys flavors. Freeze as directed. 

ICE CREAM WITH EGGS. 

Boil two quarts of rich milk, and add to it, when boiling, fourtablespoonfuls of corn-starch wet with a cup of cold milk. Boil for tenminutes, stirring often. Beat twelve eggs to a creamy froth with a heapingquart of sugar, and stir in, taking from the fire as soon as it boils. When cold, add three tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon, and two quartseither of cream or very rich milk, and freeze. For strawberry or raspberrycream allow the juice of one quart of berries to a gallon of cream. Forchocolate cream grate half a pound of chocolate; melt it with one pint ofsugar and a little water, and add to above rule. 

WATER ICES. 

Are simply fruit juices and water made very sweet, with a few whites ofeggs whipped stiff, and added. For lemon ice take two quarts of water, one quart of sugar, and the juice of seven lemons. Mix and add, after ithas begun to freeze, the stiffly-beaten whites of four eggs. Orange ice ismade in the same way. 

WINE JELLY. 

One box of gelatine; one cup of wine; three lemons, juice and rind; asmall stick of cinnamon; one quart of boiling water; one pint of whitesugar. 

Soak the gelatine in one cup of cold water half an hour. Boil the cinnamonin the quart of water for five minutes, and then add the yellow rind ofthe lemons cut very thin, and boil a minute. Take out cinnamon and rinds, and add sugar, wine, and gelatine. Strain at once through a fine strainerinto molds, and, when cold, set on the ice to harden. To turn out, dip fora moment in hot water. A pint of wine is used, if liked very strong. 

LEMON JELLY. 

Omit the wine, but make as above in other respects, using five lemons. Oranges are nice also. The juice may be used as in lemon jelly, or thelittle sections may be peeled as carefully as possible of all the whiteskin. Pour a little lemon jelly in a mold, and let it harden. Then fillwith four oranges prepared in this way, and pour in liquid jelly to coverthem. Candied fruit may be used instead. The jelly reserved to add to themold can be kept in a warm place till the other has hardened. Freshstrawberries or raspberries, or cut-up peaches, can be used instead oforanges. 

CANNING AND PRESERVING. 

Canning is so simple an operation that it is unfortunate that most peopleconsider it difficult. The directions generally given are so troublesomethat one can not wonder it is not attempted oftener; but it need be hardlymore care than the making of apple sauce, which, by the way, can always bemade while apples are plenty, and canned for spring use. In an experienceof years, not more than one can in a hundred has ever been lost, and fruitput up at home is far nicer than any from factories. 

In canning, see first that the jars are clean, the rubbers whole and inperfect order, and the tops clean and ready to screw on. Fill the jarswith hot (not boiling) water half an hour before using, and have themready on a table sufficiently large to hold the preserving-kettle, adish-pan quarter full of hot water, and the cans. Have ready, also, a deepplate, large enough to hold two cans; a silver spoon; an earthen cup withhandle; and, if possible, a can-filler, --that is, a small tin instrainer-shape, but without the bottom, and fitting about the top. Theutmost speed is needed in filling and screwing down tops, and for thisreason every thing _must be_ ready beforehand. 

In filling the can let the fruit come to the top; then run thespoon-handle down on all sides to let out the air; pour in juice till itruns over freely, and screw the top down at once, using a towel to protectthe hand. Set at once in a dish-pan of water, as this prevents the tablebeing stained by juice, and also its hardening on the hot can. Proceed inthis way till all are full; wipe them dry; and, when cold, give the topsan additional screw, as the glass contracts in cooling, and loosens them. Label them, and keep in a dark, cool closet. When the fruit is used, washthe jar, and dry carefully at the back of the stove. Wash the rubber also, and dry on a towel, putting it in the jar when dry, and screwing on thetop. They are then ready for next year's use. Mason's cans are decidedlythe best for general use. 

GENERAL RULES FOR CANNING. 

For all small fruits allow one-third of a pound of sugar to a pound offruit. Make it into a sirup with a teacup of water to each pound, and skimcarefully. Throw in the fruit, and boil ten minutes, canning as directed. Raspberries and blackberries are best; huckleberries are excellent forpies, and easily canned. Pie-plant can be stewed till tender. It requireshalf a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. 

For peaches, gages, &c, allow the same amount of sugar as for raspberries. Pare peaches, and can whole or in halves as preferred. Prick plums andgages with a large darning-needle to prevent their bursting. In canningpears, pare and drop at once, into cold water, as this prevents theirturning dark. 

Always use a porcelain-lined kettle, and stir either with a silver or awooden spoon, --never an iron one. Currants are nice mixed with an equalweight of raspberries, and all fruit is more wholesome canned than inpreserves. 

TO CAN TOMATOES. 

Unless very plenty, it is cheaper to buy these in the tins. Pour onboiling water to help in removing the skins; fill the preserving kettle, but add no water. Boil them five minutes, and then can. Do not season tillready to use them for the table. Okra and tomatoes may be scalded togetherin equal parts, and canned for soups. 

PRESERVES. 

Preserves are scarcely needed if canning is nicely done. They require muchmore trouble, and are too rich for ordinary use, a pound of sugar to oneof fruit being required. If made at all, the fruit must be very fresh, andthe sirup perfectly clear. For sirup allow one teacup of cold water toevery pound of sugar, and, as it heats, add to every three or four poundsthe white of an egg. Skim very carefully, boiling till no more rises, andit is ready for use. Peaches, pears, green gages, cherries, andcrab-apples are all preserved alike. Peel, stone, and halve peaches, andboil only a few pieces at a time till clear. Peel, core, and halve pears. Prick plums and gages several times. Core crab-apples, and cut half thestem from cherries. Cook till tender. Put up _when cold_ in small jars, and paste paper over them. 

JAMS. 

Make sirup as directed above. Use raspberries, strawberries, or any smallfruit, and boil for half an hour. Put up in small jars or tumblers; laypapers dipped in brandy on the fruit, and paste on covers, or use patentjelly-glasses. 

MARMALADE. 

Quinces make the best; but crab-apples or any sour apple are also good. Poor quinces, unfit for other use, can be washed and cut in small pieces, coring, but not paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar anda teacupful of water to a pound of fruit, and boil slowly two hours, stirring and mashing it fine. Strain through a colander, and put up inglasses or bowls. Peach marmalade is made in the same way. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

The fruit must be picked when just ripened, as when too old it will notform jelly. Look over, and then put stems and all in a porcelain-linedkettle. Crush a little of the fruit to form juice, but add no water. As itheats, jam with a potato-masher; and when hot through, strain through ajelly-bag. Let all run off that will, before squeezing the bag. It will bea little clearer than the squeezed juice. To every pint of this juice addone pound of best white sugar, taking care that it has not a blue tinge. Jelly from bluish-white sugars does not harden well. Boil the juicetwenty-five minutes; add the sugar, and boil for five more. Put up inglasses. 

ORANGE MARMALADE. 

This recipe, taken from the "New York Evening Post, " has been thoroughlytested by the author, and found delicious. 

"A recipe for orange marmalade that I think will be entirely new to mosthousewives, and that I know is delicious, comes from an Englishhousekeeper. It is a sweet that is choice and very healthful. If made now, when oranges and lemons are plentiful, it may be had at a cost of fromfive to six cents for a large glass. The recipe calls for one dozenoranges (sweet or part bitter), one half-dozen lemons, and ten pounds ofgranulated sugar. Wash the fruit in tepid water thoroughly, and scrub theskins with a soft brush to get rid of the possible microbes that it issaid may lurk on the skins of fruit. Dry the fruit; take a very sharpknife, and on a hard-wood board slice it very thin. Throw away the thickpieces that come off from the ends. Save all the seeds, and put them inone bowl; the sliced fruit in another. Pour half a gallon of water overthe contents of each bowl, and soak for thirty-six hours. Then put thefruit in your preserving-kettle, with the water that has been standing onit, and strain in (through a colander) the water put on the lemon-seeds. Cook gently two hours; then add the sugar, and cook another hour, or untilthe mixture jellies. Test by trying a little in a saucer. Put away inglasses or cans, as other jelly. "

FRUIT JELLIES. 

Crab-apple, quince, grapes, &c. , are all made in the same way. Allow ateacup of water to a pound of fruit; boil till very tender; then strainthrough a cloth, and treat as currant jelly. Cherries will not jellywithout gelatine, and grapes are sometimes troublesome. Where gelatine isneeded, allow a package to two quarts of juice. 

CANDIED FRUITS. 

Make a sirup as for preserves, and boil any fruit, prepared as directed, until tender. Let them stand two days in the sirup. Take out; draincarefully; lay them on plates; sift sugar over them, and dry either in thesun or in a moderately warm oven. 

PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. 

Sour pickles are first prepared by soaking in a brine made of one pint ofcoarse salt to six quarts of water. Boil this, and pour it scalding hotover the pickle, cucumbers, green tomatoes, &c. Cucumbers may lie in thisa week, or a month even, but must be soaked in cold water two days beforeusing them. Other pickles lie only a month. 

Sweet pickles are made from any fruit used in preserving, allowing three, or sometimes four, pounds of sugar to a quart of best cider vinegar, andboiling both together. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES. 

Half a bushel of cucumbers, small, and as nearly as possible the samesize. Make a brine as directed, and pour over them. Next morning prepare apickle as follows: Two gallons of cider vinegar; one quart of brown sugar. Boil, and skim carefully, and add to it half a pint of white mustard seed;one ounce of stick-cinnamon broken fine; one ounce of alum; half an ounceeach of whole cloves and black pepper-corns. Boil five minutes, and pourover the cucumbers. They can be used in a week. In a month scald thevinegar once more, and pour over them. 

TOMATO CHUTNEY. 

One peck of green tomatoes; six large green peppers; six onions; one cupof salt. Chop onions and peppers fine, slice the tomatoes about quarter ofan inch thick, and sprinkle the salt over all. In the morning drain offall the salt and water, and put the tomatoes in a porcelain-lined kettle. Mix together thoroughly two pounds of brown sugar; quarter of a pound ofmustard-seed; one ounce each of powdered cloves, cinnamon, ginger, andblack pepper; half an ounce of allspice; quarter of an ounce each ofcayenne pepper and ground mustard. Stir all into the tomatoes; cover withcider vinegar, --about two quarts, --and boil slowly for two hours. Verynice, but very hot. If wanted less so, omit the cayenne and groundmustard. 

RIPE CUCUMBER OR MELON-RIND PICKLES. 

Pare, seed, and cut lengthwise into four pieces, or in thick slices. Boilan ounce of alum in one gallon of water, and pour over them, letting themstand at least half a day on the back of the stove. Take them out, and letthem lie in cold water until cold. Have ready a quart of vinegar, threepounds of brown sugar, and an ounce of stick-cinnamon and half an ouncecloves. Boil the vinegar and sugar, and skim; add the spices and the melonrind or cucumber, and boil for half an hour. 

SWEET-PICKLED PEACHES, PEARS, OR PLUMS. 

Seven pounds of fruit; four pounds of brown sugar; one quart of vinegar;one ounce of cloves; two ounces of stick-cinnamon. Pare the peaches ornot, as liked. If unpared, wash and wipe each one to rub off the wool. Boil vinegar and sugar, and skim well; add spices, sticking one or twocloves in each peach. Boil ten minutes, and take out into jars. Boil thesirup until reduced one-half, and pour over them. Pears are peeled andcored; apples peeled, cored, and quartered. They can all be put in stonejars; but Mason's cans are better. 

TOMATO CATCHUP. 

Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes, skins and all, and, when soft, strainthrough a colander. Be sure that it is a colander, and _not_ a sieve, forreasons to be given. Add to this pulp two quarts of best vinegar; one cupof salt; two pounds of brown sugar; half an ounce of cayenne pepper; threeounces each of powdered allspice and mace; two ounces of powderedcinnamon; three ounces of celery-seed. Mix spices and sugar well together, and stir into the tomato; add the vinegar, and stir thoroughly. Now strainthe whole through a _sieve_. A good deal of rather thick pulp will not gothrough. Pour all that runs through into a large kettle, and let it boilslowly till reduced one-half. Put the thick pulp into a smaller kettle, and boil twenty minutes. Use as a pickle with cold meats or with boiledfish. A teacupful will flavor a soup. In the old family rule from whichthis is taken, a pint of brandy is added ten minutes before the catchup isdone; but it is not necessary, though an improvement. Bottle, and keep ina cool, dark place. It keeps for years. 

 * * * * *

CANDIES. 

CREAM CANDY. 

One pound of granulated sugar; one teacupful of water; half a teacupful ofvinegar. Boil--trying very often after the first ten minutes--till it willharden in cold water. Cool, and pull white. 

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. 

One cup of sugar; one cup of milk; half a cup of molasses; two ounces ofgrated chocolate. Melt the chocolate in a very little water; add thesugar, milk, and molasses, and boil twenty minutes, or until very thick. Pour in buttered pans, and cut in small squares when cool. 

MOLASSES CANDY. 

Two cups of molasses, one of brown sugar, a teaspoonful of butter, and atablespoonful of vinegar. Boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Pourin a buttered dish, and pull when cool. 

NUT CANDY. 

Make molasses candy as above. Just before taking it from the fire, add aheaping pint of shelled peanuts or walnuts. Cut in strips before it isquite cold. 

COCOANUT DROPS. 

One cocoanut grated; half its weight in powdered sugar; whites of twoeggs; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. Mix corn-starch and sugar; addcocoanut, and then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Make in littlecones, and bake on buttered paper in a slow oven. 

CHOCOLATE CREAMS. 

One pound of granulated sugar; half a pound of chocolate; one teaspoonfulof acetic acid; one tablespoonful of water; one teaspoonful of vanilla. Melt the sugar slowly, wetting a little with the water. Add the acid andvanilla, and boil till sugary, trying _very_ often by stirring a little ina saucer. When sugary, take from the fire, and stir until almost hard;then roll in little balls, and put on a buttered plate. Melt the chocolatein two tablespoonfuls of water with a cup of sugar, and boil five minutes. When just warm, dip in the little balls till well coated, and lay onplates to dry. Very nice. 

 * * * * *

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

GENERAL HINTS. 

As recovery from any illness depends in large part upon proper food, andas the appetite of the sick is always capricious and often requirestempting, the greatest pains should be taken in the preparation of theirmeals. If only dry toast and tea, let each be perfect, rememberinginstructions for making each, and serving on the freshest of napkins andin dainty china. A _tête-à-tête_ service is very nice for use in asick-room; and in any case a very small teapot can be had, that the teamay always be made fresh. Prepare only a small amount of any thing, andnever discuss it beforehand. A surprise will often rouse a flaggingappetite. Be ready, too, to have your best attempts rejected. The articledisliked one day may be just what is wanted the next. Never let food standin a sick-room, --for it becomes hateful to a sensitive patient, --and haveevery thing as daintily clean as possible. Remember, too, that gelatine isnot nourishing, and do not be satisfied to feed a patient on jellies. Bread from any brown flour will be more nourishing than wheat. Corn mealis especially valuable for thin, chilly invalids, as it contains so muchheat. In severe sickness a glass tube is very useful for feeding gruelsand drinks, and little white china boats with spouts are also good. Awooden tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand on the bed, isvery convenient for serving meals. Let ventilation, sunshine, and absolutecleanliness rule in the sick-room. Never raise a dust, but wipe the carpetwith a damp cloth, and pick up bits as needed. Never let lamp or sun lightshine directly in the eyes, and, when the patient shows desire to sleep, darken the room a little. Never whisper, nor wear rustling dresses, norbecome irritated at exactions, but keep a cheerful countenance, whichhelps often far more than drugs. Experience must teach the rest. 

BEEF TEA, OR ESSENCE OF BEEF. 

Cut a pound of perfectly lean beef into small bits. Do not allow anyparticle of fat to remain. Put in a wide-mouthed bottle, cork tightly, andset in a kettle of cold water. Boil for three hours; pour off the juice, which is now completely extracted from the meat. There will be probably asmall cupful. Season with a saltspoonful of salt. This is given in extremesickness, feeding a teaspoonful at a time. 

BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS. 

One pound of lean beef prepared as above. Add a pint of coldwater, --rain-water is best, --and soak for an hour. Cover closely, and boilfor ten minutes; or put in the oven, and let it remain an hour. Pour offthe juice, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, and use. A littlecelery salt makes a change. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

The bones and a pound of meat from a chicken put in three pints of coldwater. Skim thoroughly when it comes to a boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer for three hours. Strain and serve. A tablespoonful of soakedrice or tapioca may be added after the broth is strained. Return it inthis case to the fire, and boil half an hour longer. 

CHICKEN JELLY. 

Boil chicken as for broth, but reduce the liquid to half a pint. Straininto a cup or little mold, and turn out when cold. 

CHICKEN PANADA. 

Take the breast of the chicken boiled as above; cut in bits, and poundsmooth in a mortar. Take a teacupful of bread-crumbs; soak them soft inwarm milk, or, if liked better, in a little broth. Mix them with thechicken; add a saltspoonful of salt, and, if allowed, a pinch of mace; andserve in a cup with a spoon. 

BEEF, TAPIOCA, AND EGG BROTH. 

One pound of lean beef, prepared as for beef tea, and soaked one hour in aquart of cold water. Boil slowly for two hours. Strain it. Add a halfteaspoonful of salt, and half a cupful of tapioca which has been washedand soaked an hour in warm water. Boil slowly half an hour. Serve in ashallow bowl, in which a poached egg is put at the last, or stir a beatenegg into one cup of the boiling soup, and serve at once with wafers orcrackers. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

Made as chicken broth. Any strong stock, from which the fat has beentaken, answers for broths. 

OATMEAL GRUEL. 

Have ready, in a double boiler, one quart of boiling water with ateaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal. Boil an hour; then strain, and serve with cream or milk and sugar ifordered. Farina gruel is made in the same way. 

INDIAN OR CORN MEAL GRUEL. 

One quart of boiling water; one teaspoonful of salt. Mix threetablespoonfuls of corn meal with a little cold water, and stir in slowly. Boil one hour; strain and serve, a cupful at once. 

MILK PORRIDGE. 

One quart of boiling milk; two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with a littlecold milk and half a teaspoonful of salt. Stir into the milk, and boilhalf an hour. 

Strain and serve. If allowed, a handful of raisins and a little gratednutmeg may be boiled with it. 

WINE WHEY. 

Boil one cup of new milk, and add half a wine-glass of good sherry orMadeira wine. Boil a minute; strain, and use with or without sugar asliked. 

EGG-NOG. 

One egg; one tablespoonful of sugar; half a cup of milk; one tablespoonfulof wine. 

Beat the sugar and yolk to a cream; add the wine, and then the milk. Beatthe white to a stiff froth, and stir in very lightly. 

Omit the milk where more condensed nourishment is desired. 

ARROW-ROOT OR RICE JELLY. 

Two heaping teaspoonfuls of either arrow-root or rice flour; a pinch ofsalt; a heaping tablespoonful of sugar; one cup of boiling water. 

Mix the flour with a little cold water, and add to the boiling water. Boiluntil transparent, and pour into cups or small molds. For a patient withsummer complaint, flavor by boiling a stick of cinnamon in it. For a feverpatient add the juice of quarter of a lemon. 

DR. GAUNT'S RICE JELLY. 

Take four tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil it hard in three pints of waterfor twenty minutes. Let simmer for two hours. Then force through fine hairstrainer, and allow it to cool. Place in an ice chest over night. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 

Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of the rice jelly in each one-half pint ofmilk. 

RICE WATER FOR DRINK. 

One quart of boiling water; a pinch of salt; one tablespoonful of rice orrice flour. Boil half an hour, and strain. 

TOAST WATER. 

Toast two slices of bread very brown, but do not scorch. Put in a pitcher, and while hot pour on one quart of cold water. Let it stand half an hour, and it is ready for use. 

CRUST COFFEE. 

Two thick slices of graham or Boston brown bread toasted as brown aspossible. Pour on one pint of boiling water, and steep ten minutes. Servewith milk and sugar, like coffee. 

BEEF JUICE. 

Broil a thick piece of beef steak three minutes. Squeeze all the juicewith a lemon-squeezer into a cup; salt very lightly, and give like beeftea. 

JELLY AND ICE. 

Break ice in bits no bigger than a pea. A large pin will break off bitsfrom a lump very easily. To a tablespoonful add one of wine jelly brokenup. It is very refreshing in fever. 

PANADA. 

Lay in a bowl two Boston or graham crackers split; sprinkle on a pinch ofsalt, and cover with boiling water. Set the bowl in a saucepan of boilingwater, and let it stand half an hour, till the crackers look clear. Slideinto a hot saucer without breaking, and eat with cream and sugar. As theyare only good hot, do just enough for the patient's appetite at one time. 

MILK TOAST. 

Toast one or two thin slices of bread; dip quickly in a little saltedboiling water, and spread on a little butter. Boil a teacupful of milk;thicken with a teaspoonful of flour mixed in a little cold water with apinch of salt; lay the toast in a small, hot, deep plate, and pour overthe milk. Cream toast is made in the same way. 

BEEF SANDWICH. 

Two or three tablespoonfuls of raw, very tender beef, scraped fine, andspread between two slices of slightly buttered bread. Sprinkle on pepperand salt. 

PREPARED FLOUR. 

Tie a pint of flour tightly in a cloth, and boil for four hours. Scrapeoff the outer crust, and the inside will be found to be a dry ball. Gratethis as required, allowing one tablespoonful wet in cold milk to a pint ofboiling milk, and boiling till smooth. Add a saltspoonful of salt. This isexcellent for summer complaint, whether in adults or children. The beatenwhite of an egg can also be stirred in if ordered. If this porridge isused from the beginning of the complaint, little or no medicine will berequired. 

PARCHED RICE. 

Roast to a deep brown as you would coffee, and then cook as in rule forboiled rice, p. 199, and eat with cream and sugar. 

RICE COFFEE. 

Parch as above, and grind. Allow half a cup to a quart of boiling water, and let it steep fifteen minutes. Strain, and drink plain, or with milkand sugar. 

HERB TEAS. 

For the dried herbs allow one teaspoonful to a cup of boiling water. Pourthe water on them; cover, and steep ten minutes or so. Camomile tea isgood for sleeplessness; calamus and catnip for babies' colic; and cinnamonfor hemorrhages and summer complaint. Slippery-elm and flax-seed are alsogood for the latter. 

BEEF STEAK OR CHOPS, ETC. 

With beef steak, cut a small thick piece of a nice shape; broil carefully, and serve on a very hot plate, salting a little, but using no butterunless allowed by the physician. 

Chops should be trimmed very neatly, and cooked in the same way. A niceway of serving a chop is to broil, and cut in small bits. Have ready abaked potato. Cut a slice from the top; take out the inside, and season asfor eating; add the chop, and return all to the skin, covering it, andserving as hot as possible. 

When appetite has returned, poached eggs on toast, a little salt cod withcream, or many of the dishes given under the head of Breakfast Dishes, arerelished. Prepare small quantities, preserving the right proportions ofseasoning. 

TAPIOCA JELLY. 

Two ounces of tapioca, --about two tablespoonfuls, --soaked over-night inone cup of cold water. In the morning add a second cup of cold water, andboil till very clear. Add quarter of a cup of sugar; two teaspoonfuls ofbrandy or four of wine; or the thin rind and juice of a lemon may be usedinstead. Very good hot, but better poured into small molds wet with coldwater, and turned out when firm. 

TAPIOCA GRUEL. 

Half a cup of tapioca soaked over-night in a cup of cold water. In themorning add a quart of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt, and boil threehours. It can be eaten plain, or with sugar and wine. Most of theblancmanges and creams given can be prepared in smaller quantities, ifallowed. Baked custards can be made with the whites of the eggs, if a verydelicate one is desired. 

APPLE WATER. 

Two roasted sour apples, or one pint of washed dried apples. Pour on onequart of boiling water; cover, and let it stand half an hour, when it isready for use. 

HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 

SOFT SOAP. 

All mutton and ham fat should be melted and strained into a large stonepot. The practice of throwing lumps of fat into a pot, and waiting tillthere are several pounds before trying them out, is a disgusting one, asoften such a receptacle is alive with maggots. Try out the fat, and strainas carefully as you would lard or beef drippings, and it is then alwaysready for use. If concentrated lye or potash, which comes in little tins, is used, directions will be found on the tins. Otherwise allow a pound ofstone potash to every pound of grease. Twelve pounds of each will make abarrel of soft soap. 

Crack the potash in small pieces. Put in a large kettle with two gallonsof water, and boil till dissolved. Then add the grease, and, when melted, pour all into a tight barrel. Fill it up with boiling water, and for aweek, stir daily for five or ten minutes. It will gradually become likejelly. 

TO PURIFY SINKS AND DRAINS. 

To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of boiling water, and usewhen dissolved. The copperas is poison, and must never be left unmarked. 

FURNITURE POLISH. 

Mix two tablespoonfuls of sweet or linseed oil with a tablespoonful ofturpentine, and rub on with a piece of flannel, polishing with a drypiece. 

TO KEEP EGGS. 

Be sure that the eggs are fresh. Place them points down in a stone jar ortight firkin, and pour over them the following brine, which is enough fora hundred and fifty:--

One pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces of cream of tartar, and four gallons of water. Boil all together for ten minutes; skim, and, when cold, pour it over the eggs. They can also be kept in salt tightlypacked, but not as well. 

TO MAKE HARD WATER SOFT. 

Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water a pound and a quarter of washingsoda, and a quarter of a pound of borax. In washing clothes allow quarterof a cup of this to every gallon of water. 

TO TAKE OUT FRUIT-STAINS. 

Stretch the stained part tightly over a bowl, and pour on boiling watertill it is free from spot. 

TO TAKE OUT INK-SPOTS. 

Ink spilled upon carpets or on woolen table-covers can be taken out, ifwashed at once in cold water. Change the water often, and continue tillthe stain is gone. 

MIXED SPICES. 

Three heaping tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, one heaping one each ofclove and mace, and one even one of allspice. Mix thoroughly, and use fordark cakes and for puddings. 

SPICE SALT. 

Four ounces of salt; one of black pepper; one each of thyme, sweetmarjoram, and summer savory; half an ounce each of clove, allspice, andmace; quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper; one ounce of celery salt. Mixall together; sift three times, and keep closely covered. Half an ouncewill flavor a stuffing for roast meat; and a tablespoonful is nice in manysoups and stews. 

TO WASH GREASY TIN AND IRON. 

Pour a few drops of ammonia into every greasy roasting-pan, firsthalf-filling with warm water. A bottle of ammonia should always stand nearthe sink for such uses. Never allow dirty pots or pans to stand and dry;for it doubles the labor of washing. Pour in water, and use ammonia, andthe work is half done. 

TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER. 

Scrape a little rotten-stone fine, and make into a paste with sweet oil. Rub on with a piece of flannel; let it dry, and polish with achamois-skin. Copper is cleaned either with vinegar and salt mixed inequal parts, or with oxalic acid. The latter is a deadly poison, and mustbe treated accordingly. 

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

As many families have no scales for weighing, a table of measures is givenwhich can be used instead. Weighing is always best, but not alwaysconvenient. The cup used is the ordinary coffee or kitchen cup, holdinghalf a pint. A set of tin measures, from a gill up to a quart, is veryuseful in all cooking operations. 

One quart of sifted flour is one pound. 

One pint of granulated sugar is one pound. 

Two cups of butter packed are one pound. 

Ten eggs are one pound. 

Five cupfuls of sifted flour are one pound. 

A wine-glassful is half a gill. 

Eight even tablespoonfuls are a gill. 

Four even saltspoonfuls make a teaspoonful. 

A saltspoonful is a good measure of salt for all custards, puddings, blancmanges, &c. 

One teaspoonful of soda to a quart of flour. 

Two teaspoonfuls of soda to one of cream of tartar. 

The teaspoonful given in all these receipts is just rounded full, notheaped. 

Two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one quart of flour. 

One cup of sweet or sour milk as wetting for one quart of flour. 

TIME TABLE FOR ROASTED MEATS. 

Beef, from six to eight pounds, one hour and a half, or twelve minutes tothe pound. 

Mutton, ten minutes to the pound for rare; fifteen for well-done. 

Lamb, a very little less according to age and size of roast. 

Veal, twenty minutes to a pound. 

Pork, half an hour to a pound. 

Turkey of eight or ten pounds weight, not less than three hours. 

Goose of seven or eight pounds, two hours. 

Chickens, from an hour to an hour and a half. 

Tame ducks, one hour. 

Game duck, from thirty to forty minutes. 

Partridges, grouse, &c. , half an hour. 

Pigeons, half an hour. 

Small birds, twenty minutes. 

TIME TABLE FOR BOILED MEATS. 

Beef _à la mode_, eight pounds, four hours. 

Corned beef, eight pounds, four hours. 

Corned or smoked tongue, eight pounds, four hours. 

Ham, eight or ten pounds, five hours. 

Mutton, twenty minutes to a pound. 

Veal, half an hour to a pound. 

Turkey, ten pounds, three hours. 

Chickens, one hour and a half. 

Old fowls, two or three hours. 

TIME TABLE FOR FISH. 

Halibut and salmon, fifteen minutes to a pound. 

Blue-fish, bass, &c. , ten minutes to a pound. 

Fresh cod, six minutes to a pound. 

Baked halibut, twelve minutes to a pound. 

Baked blue-fish, &c. , ten minutes to a pound. 

Trout, pickerel, &c. , eight minutes to a pound. 

TIME TABLE FOR VEGETABLES. 

_Half an hour_, --Pease, potatoes, asparagus, rice, corn, summer squash, canned tomatoes, macaroni. 

_Three-quarters of an hour_, --Young beets, young turnips, young carrotsand parsnips, baked potatoes (sweet and Irish), boiled sweet potatoes, onions, canned corn, tomatoes. 

_One hour_, --New cabbage, shelled and string beans, spinach and greens, cauliflower, oyster-plant, and winter squash. 

_Two hours_, --Winter carrots, parsnips, turnips, cabbage, and onions. 

_Three to eight hours_, --Old beets. 

TIME TABLE FOR BREAD, CAKES, ETC. 

Bread, --large loaves, an hour; small loaves, from half to three-quartersof an hour. 

Biscuits and rolls, in from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

Brown bread, steamed, three hours. 

Loaves of sponge cake, forty-five minutes; if thin, about thirty. 

Loaves of richer cake, from forty-five minutes to an hour. 

Fruit cake, about two hours, if in two or three pound loaves. 

Small thin cakes and cookies, from ten to fifteen minutes. Watchcarefully. 

Baked puddings, rice, &c. , one hour. 

Boiled puddings, three hours. 

Custards to be watched and tested after the first fifteen minutes. 

Batter puddings baked, forty-five minutes. 

Pie-crust, about half an hour. 

DEVILED HAM. 

For this purpose, use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of theamount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:--

One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard;one saltspoonful of Cayenne pepper; one teacupful of good vinegar. Mix thesugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add the vinegar little bylittle. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in small molds, if it isto be served as a lunch or supper relish, turning out upon a small platterand garnishing with parsley. 

For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread withabout a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can beprepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in littlejars, and pour melted butter over the top. 

This receipt should have had place under "Meats, " but was overlooked. 

LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR SUCCESSFUL WORKING. 

TIN WARE. 

One boiler for clothes, holding eight or ten gallons. --Two dish-pans, --onelarge, one medium-sized. --One two-quart covered tin pail. --One four-quartcovered tin pail. --Two thick tin four-quart saucepans. --Two two-quartsaucepans. --Four measures, from one gill to a quart, and broad and low, rather than high. --Three tin scoops of different sizes for flour, sugar, &c. --Two pint and two half-pint molds for jellies. --Two quart molds. --Oneskimmer with long handle. --One large and one small dipper. --Fourbread-pans, 10x4x4. --Three jelly-cake tins. --Six pie-plates. --Two longbiscuit-tins. --One coffee-pot. --One colander. --One large grater. --Onenutmeg-grater. --Two wire sieves; one ten inches across, the other four, and with tin sides. --One flour-sifter. --One fine jelly-strainer. --Onefrying-basket. --One Dover egg-beater. --One wire egg-beater. --Oneapple-corer. --One pancake-turner. --One set of spice-boxes, or aspice-caster. --One pepper-box. --One flour-dredger. --Onesugar-dredger. --One biscuit-cutter. --One potato-cutter. --A dozenmuffin-rings. --Small tins for little cakes. --One muffin-pan. --One doublemilk-boiler, the inside boiler holding two quarts. --One fish-boiler, whichcan also be used for hams. --One deep bread-pan; a dish-pan is good, butmust be kept for this. --One steamer. --One pudding-boiler. --Onecake-box. --Six teaspoons. 

WOODEN WARE. 

One bread-board. --One rolling-pin. --One meat-board. --One wash-board. --Onelemon-squeezer. --One potato-masher. --Two large spoons. --One smallone. --Nest of wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, &c. --Wooden pails for grahamand corn meal. --Chopping-tray. --Water-pail. --Scrubbing-pail. --Wooden coverfor flour-barrel. --One board for cutting bread. --One partitionedknife-box. 

IRON WARE. 

One pair of scales. --One two-gallon pot with steamer to fit. --Onethree-gallon soup-pot with close-fitting cover. --One three-gallonporcelain-lined kettle, to be kept only for preserving. --One four or sixquart one, for apple sauce, &c. --One tea-kettle. --One large and one smallfrying-pan. --Two Russia or sheet iron dripping-pans; one large enough fora large turkey. --Two gem-pans with deep cups. --Two long-handledspoons. --Two spoons with shorter handles. --One large meat-fork. --Onemeat-saw. --One cleaver. --One griddle. --One wire broiler. --Onetoaster. --One waffle-iron. --One can-opener. --Three pairs of common knivesand forks. --One small Scotch or frying kettle. --One chopping-knife. --Onemeat-knife. --One bread-knife. --One set of skewers. --Trussing-needles. 

EARTHEN AND STONE WARE. 

Two large mixing-bowls, holding eight or ten quarts each. --One eight-quartlip-bowl for cake. --Half a dozen quart bowls. --Half a dozen pintbowls. --Three or four deep plates for putting away cold food. --Sixbaking-dishes of different sizes, round or oval. --Two quartblancmange-molds. --Two or three pitchers. --Two stone crocks, holding agallon each. --Two, holding two quarts each. --One bean-pot for bakedbeans. --One dozen Mason's jars for holding yeast, and many things used ina store closet. --Stone jugs for vinegar and molasses. --Two or three largecovered stone jars for pickles. --One deep one for bread. --One earthenteapot. --One dozen pop-over cups. --One dozen custard-cups. --Measuring-cup. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Scrubbing and blacking brushes. --Soap-dish. --Knife-board. --Vegetable-cutters. --Pastry-brush. --Egg-basket. --Market-basket. --Broom. --Brush. --Dust-pan. --Floor and sink cloths. --Whisk-broom. --Four roller-towels. --Twelve dish-towels. --Dishes enough for settingservants' table, heavy stone-china being best. 

HINTS TO TEACHERS. 

In beginning with a class of school-girls from fourteen to eighteen, it isbest to let the first two or three lessons be demonstration lessons; thatis, to have all operations performed by the teacher. An assistant may bechosen from the class, who can help in any required way. The receipts forthe day should first be read, and copied plainly by all the pupils. Eachprocess must be fully explained, and be as daintily and deftly performedas possible. Not more than six dishes at the most can be prepared in onelesson, and four will be the usual number. Two lessons a week, from two tothree hours each, are all for which the regular school-course gives time;and there should be not more than one day between, as many dishes can notbe completed in one lesson. 

After yeast and bread have been once made by the teacher, bread should bethe first item in every lesson thereafter, and the class made apractice-class. Each pupil should make bread twice, --once under theteacher's supervision, and at least once entirely alone. In a large classthis may occupy the entire time in the school-year. Let the most importantoperations be thoroughly learned, even if there is little variety. To makeand bake all forms of bread, to broil a steak, boil a potato, and makegood tea and coffee, may not seem sufficient result for a year's work;but the girl who can do this has mastered the principles of cooking, andis abundantly able to go on alone. 

The fire should be made and cared for by each in turn, and the best modesof washing dishes, and keeping the room and stores in the best order, bepart of each lesson. 

Once a week let a topic be given out, on which all are to write, anyingredient in cooking being chosen, and the papers read and marked inorder of merit. 

Once a month examine on these topics, and on what has been learned. Letdigestion and forms of food be well understood, and spare no pains to makethe lesson attractive and stimulating to interest. 

In classes for ladies the work is usually done entirely by the teacher, and at least five dishes are prepared. A large class can thus be taught;but the results will never be as satisfactory as in a practice-class, though the latter is of course much more troublesome to the teacher, as itrequires far more patience and tact to watch and direct the imperfectdoing of a thing than to do it one's self. 

A class lunch or supper is a pleasant way of demonstrating what progresshas been made; and, in such entertainment, do not aim at great variety, but insist upon the perfect preparation of a few things. To lay anddecorate a table prettily is an accomplishment, and each classroom shouldhave enough china and glass to admit of this. 

To indicate the method which the writer has found practicable and useful, a course of twelve lessons is given, embracing the essential operations;and beyond this the teacher can construct her own bills of fare. When themaking of bread begins, it will be found that not more than two or threeother things can be made at one lesson. Let one of these be a simple cakeor pudding for the benefit of the class, whose interest is wonderfullystimulated by something good to eat. 

Large white aprons and small half-sleeves to draw on over thedress-sleeves are essential, and must be insisted upon. A little cap ofSwiss muslin is pretty, and finishes the uniform well, but is not anecessity. 

For the rest each teacher must judge for herself, only remembering to_demand the most absolute neatness_ in all work done, and to _give themost perfect patience_ no matter how stupid the pupil may seem. 

TWELVE LESSONS. 

LESSON FIRST. 

To make stock. Beef rolls. Apple float. Boiled custard. 

LESSON SECOND. 

To clarify fat or drippings. Clear soup. Beef soup with vegetables. To make caramel. Cream cakes. 

LESSON THIRD. 

Beef _à la mode_. To boil potatoes. Mashed potatoes. Potato snow. Potato croquettes. Yeast. Wine jelly. 

LESSON FOURTH. 

Bread. Plain rolls. Beef hash with potatoes. Beef croquettes. Coddled apples. 

LESSON FIFTH. 

Graham bread. Rye bread. To broil beef steak. To boil macaroni. Macaroni baked with cheese. To make a _roux_. Baked custard. 

LESSON SIXTH. 

Parker-House rolls. Steamed brown bread. Purée of salmon. Croquettes of salmon. Corn-starch pudding. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 

Baked fish. To devil ham. Stuffed eggs. Plain omelet. Saratoga potatoes. To use stale bread. Bread pudding and plain sauce. 

LESSON EIGHTH. 

Irish stew. Boiled cabbage. Baked cabbage. Lyonnaise potatoes. Whipped cream. Sponge cake. Charlotte Russe. 

LESSON NINTH. 

Bean soup. To dress and truss a chicken. Chicken fricassee, --brown. Chicken pie. Meringues, plain and with jelly. 

LESSON TENTH. 

Oyster soup. Oyster scallop. Fried oysters. Pie-crust. Oyster patties. Lemon and apple pie. 

LESSON ELEVENTH. 

To bone a turkey or chicken. Force-meat. Boiled parsnips. To boil rice. Parsnip fritters. 

LESSON TWELFTH. 

To decorate boned turkey. To roast beef. To bake potatoes with beef. Gravy. Rice croquettes. Chicken or turkey croquettes. 

LIST OF TOPICS FOR TWENTY LESSONS. 

Wheat and corn. Making of flour and meal. Tea. Coffee. Chocolate and cocoa. Tapioca and sago. Rice. Salt. Pepper. Cloves and allspice. Cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace. Ginger and mustard. Olive-oil. Raisins and currants. Macaroni and vermicelli. Potatoes. Sweet potatoes. Yeast and bread. Butter. Fats. 

LIST OF AUTHORITIES TO WHICH THE TEACHER MAY REFER. 

Draper's Physiology. Dalton's Physiology. Carpenter's Physiology. Foster's Physiology. Youman's Chemistry. Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life. Lewes's Physiology of Common Life. Gray's How Plants Grow. Rand's Vegetable Kingdom. Brillât Savarin's Art of Dining. Brillât Savarin's Physiologie du Goût. The Cook's Oracle, Dr. Kitchener. Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Chambers. Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Pary. Food and Digestion, by Dr. Brinton. Food, by Dr. Letheby. Cook-books at discretion. 

QUESTIONS FOR FINAL EXAMINATION AT END OF YEAR. 

1. How is soup-stock made?

2. How is white soup made?

3. What are purées?

4. How is clear soup made?

5. How is caramel made, and what are its uses?

6. How is meat jelly made and colored?

7. How is meat boiled, roasted, and broiled?

8. How can cold meat be used?

9. How is poultry roasted and broiled?

10. How are potatoes cooked?

11. How are dried leguminous vegetables cooked?

12. How is rice boiled dry?

13. How is macaroni boiled?

14. How are white and brown sauces made?

15. Give plain salad-dressing and mayonnaise. 

16. How are beef tea and chicken broth made?

17. Give receipts for plain omelet and omelette soufflée. 

18. How are bread, biscuit, and rolls made?

19. How is pie-crust made?

20. Rule for puff paste?

21. How should you furnish a kitchen?

22. What are the best kinds of cooking utensils?

END. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. By W. Mattieu Williams. 

THE PERFECT WAY IN DIET. By Dr. Anna Kingsford. 

FOODS. By Edward Smith. 

FRUITS, AND HOW TO USE THEM. By Hester M. Poole. 

EATING FOR STRENGTH. Dr. M. L. Holbrook. 

FRUIT AND BREAD. By Gustav Schlickeyesen. Translated by Dr. M. L. Holbrook. 

FOOD AND FEEDING. By Sir Henry Thompson. 

MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOK BOOK. What to Do and What not to Do in Cooking. 

JUST HOW. By Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney. 

MRS. RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK. 

PRACTICAL COOKING AND DINNER-GIVING. Mrs. Henderson. 

IN THE KITCHEN. By Mrs. E. S. Miller. 

GOOD LIVING. A Practical Cook Book for Town and Country. By Sara Van BurenBrugière. 

FRENCH DISHES FOR AMERICAN TABLES. By Pierre Caron. 

CUISINE CLASSIQUE. Urbain-Dubois. 

CARÈME. 

GOUFFÉ. 

SOYER. 

DIET FOR THE SICK. A Treatise on the Values of Foods, their Application toSpecial Conditions of Health and Disease, and on the Best Methods of theirPreparation. By Mrs. Mary E. Henderson. 

Cookery-Books at discretion. 

INDEX. 

PART II. 

Apple Dumplings, 239. Float, 246. Water, 269. 

Artichokes, 206. 

Asparagus, 205. 

Authorities for reference, 286. 

Beans, string, 203. Shelled, 203. 

Beef _a la mode_, 147. Corned, 149. Frizzled, 190. Juice, 266. Rolls, 153. Sandwich, 267. Steak, 158. Steak for sick, 268. Tea or essence, 262. Tea for convalescents, 262. Virginia fashion, 148. 

Beets, 199. 

Bibliography, 288. 

Birds, 164. 

Biscuit, baking-powder, 216. Beaten, 216. Soda and cream of tartar, 215. 

Blancmange, 246. 

Boiled meats and stews, 146

Bread-making and flour, 208. 

Bread, 210. Brown, 214. Cake, 227. Corn, 218. Graham, 212. Pancakes, 221. Rye, 213. Sour, 220. To use dry, 220. To freshen stale, 221. 

Breakfast puffs or popovers, 217. 

Brown-bread brewis, 220. 

Broth, mutton, 125, 263. Chicken, 126. Beef, tapioca, and egg, 263. 

Buns, plain, 228, Cake making, 221. 

Cake, apple, 220. Bread, 227. Cup, 224. Dover, 226. Fruit, 225. Gold, 227. Huckleberry, 219. Pound, 225. Rolled jelly, 224. Sponge, 223. White or silver, 226. 

Cakes, cream, 230. Filling for, 231. Drop, 230. Buckwheat, 219. 

Cabbage, 201. 

Candy, cream, 259. 

Candy, molasses, 260. Nut, 260. 

Chocolate creams, 260. Caramels, 260

Cocoanut drops, 260. 

Canning, General Rules for, 253. Tomatoes, 253. 

Caramel, 131. 

Carrots, 200. 

Carrots _sautés_, 200. 

Casserole of rice and meat, 169. 

Cauliflower, 201. 

Cheese fondu, 184. Soufflé, 184. 

Charlotte Russe, 247. 

Cheese straws, 237. 

Chicken broth, 126. Broth for sick, 263. Croquettes, Philadelphia, 168. Croquettes, 167. Fricassee, brown, 165. Fricassee, white, 166. Fried, 165. Jellied, 173. Panada, 263. Pie, 160. Roasted or boiled, 164. Salad, 179. 

Chocolate, 196. 

Cocoa, 196. 

Coffee, 194. Crust, 266. Rice, 267. 

Copper, to clean, 272. 

Corn, green, 204. Fritters, 204. Pudding, 204. 

Cream, Bavarian, 247. Fried, 249. Fruit, 248. Ice, with cream, 250. Ice, with eggs, 250. To freeze, 249. Spanish, 247. Strawberry, 248. Whipped, 247. 

Crisped crackers, 220. 

Croquettes, chicken, 167. Potato, 198. Rice, 207. 

Crushed wheat, boiled, 185. 

Curries, 153. 

Custard, baked, 245. Boiled, 245. Pie, 236. 

Doughnuts, 228. 

Dressing, boiled for cold slaw, 179. For poultry, 162. Without oil, 179. Plain salad, 177. 

Drop cakes, 230. 

Duck, roast, 164. 

Egg-nog, 264. Egg-plant, 204. Baked, 205. Fritters, 204. 

Eggs, baked, 181. Boiled, 180. Poached, 181. Scrambled, 181. Stuffed, 182. To keep, 271. 

Examination questions, 287. 

Fish, 131. Baked, 133. Balls, 188. Boiled, 134. Broiled, 135. Chowder, 140. Fried, 136. Hash, 189. Potted, 139. Salt cod, boiled, 188. Salt cod, with cream, 139. Spiced, 139. Stewed, 137. With cream, 189. 

Flour browned for soup, 130. Prepared, 267. 

Freezing ices and creams, 249. 

Fritters, clam, 143. Oyster, 143. Peach, 249. 

Fruits, candied, 256. Jellied, 256. 

Fruit-stains, to take out, 271. 

Fruit cream, 248. 

Furniture polish, 270. 

Gingerbread, 229. 

Ginger snaps, 229. 

Goose, roasted, 164. 

Gruel, corn meal or Indian, 264. Oatmeal, 264. Tapioca, 269. 

Ham, boiled, 150. Deviled, 170. Fried, 160. 

Hash, meat, 191. 

Hasty pudding, 186. 

Herb teas, 267. 

Herring, roe, 189. 

Hints to teachers, 280. 

Hoe-cake, 218. 

Hominy cakes, 186. Coarse, 185. Fine, 186. 

Huckleberry cake, 219. 

Ink-spots, to take out, 271. 

Iron or tin, to wash, 272. Italia's Pride, 169. 

Jams, 254. 

Jelly and ice, 266. Arrow-root, 265. Rice, Dr. Gaunt's, 265. Chicken, 263. Currant, 255. Fruit, 256. Lemon, 251. Rice, 265. Tapioca, 268. Wine, 251. 

Jumbles, 230. 

List of utensils required, 277. 

Lobster, boiled, 143. Curried, 144. 

Macaroni, 207. With cheese, 208. 

Mackerel, salt, 189. 

Marmalade, 254. 

Marmalade, orange, 255. 

Mayonnaise, 178. Of salmon, 180. 

Meats, 144. Roasted, 154. Broiled and fried, 158. 

Meat, cold, to warm, 161. 

Meringues, 231. 

Mince-meat, for pies, 237. 

Muffins, graham, 213. Rye, 213. 

Mush, 186. 

Mutton, boiled, 149. Broth, 125. Broth for sick, 263. Chops, 268. Leg of, stuffed, 155. Roasted, 155. 

Oatmeal, boiled, 185. 

Omelet, plain, 182. Baked, 183. 

Omelette soufflée, 248. 

Onions, boiled, 201. 

Oyster or clam fritters, 143. 

Oyster-plant, 200. 

Oysters, fried, 141. For pie or patties, 142. Scalloped, 141. Smothered, 143. Spiced or pickled, 142. Stewed, 141. 

Panada, 266. 

Parsnips, 199. Fritters, 199. 

Pastry and pies, 232. 

Patties, 233. 

Pease, 202. Field, 202. 

Pickles, cucumber, 257. Ripe cucumber, 258. Melon-rind, 258. Sweet; peaches, &c, 258, Pie, cherry or berry, 236. Custard, 236. Dried-apple, 234. Grandmother's apple-pie, 234. Lemon, 235. Squash or pumpkin, 236. Sweet potato, or pudding, 235. 

Plain pie-crust, 232. 

Pork and beans, 157. Roasted, 157. Steak, 160. 

Potato croquettes, 198. Snow, 198. 

Potatoes, baked, 198. Baked with beef, 198. Boiled, 197. Lyonnaise, 187. Mashed, 198. Saratoga, 188. 

Potatoes, stewed, 187. Sweet, 199. What to do with cold, 187. 

Poultry, to clean, 161. Dressing for, 162. 

Porridge, milk, 264. 

Preserves, 254. 

Pudding, any-day plum, 240. Batter, 240. Bread, 241. Bread-and-apple, 242. Bread-and-butter, 241. Bird's-nest, 242. Corn-starch, 243. Cabinet, 244. Corn-meal or Indian, 245. English plum, 239. Gelatine, 244. Minute, 243. Plain rice, 243. Sunder land, 241. Tapioca, 242. Tapioca cream, 243. Tipsy, 246. 

Puff paste, 233. 

Purées, 128. 

Rammekins, 237. 

Rice, boiled, 207. Croquettes, 207. Water, 265. Parched, 267. 

Rolls, plain, 214. Parker-House, 215, Roux, to make, 174. 

Salads, 173. 

Salmi of duck or game, 169. 

Sauces, 173. 

Sauce, apple, 176. Bread, 174. Celery, 175 cranberry, 175. Foaming, 176. Fruit, 177. Hard, 177. Mayonnaise, 178. Mint, 175. Molasses, 176. Plain pudding, 176. 

Spanish tomato, 178. 

Sausage, fried, 190. 

Short-cake, 217. 

Sinks and drains, to purify, 270. 

Soft soap, 270. 

Soup, amber or clear, 123. Beef, with vegetables, 122. Clam, 127. Mock turtle, 125. Onion, 130. Oyster, 127. Pea, 129. Tomato, without meat, 126. Tomato, hasty, 126. Turtle-bean, 129. White, 124. 

Spanish tomato sauce, 178. 

Spinach, 205. 

Spice salt, 272. 

Spices, mixed, 271. 

Stew, Brunswick, 154. Brown, 152. Irish, 151. White, 152. 

Stock and seasoning, 119. 

Squash, winter, 202. Summer, 202. 

Succotash, 203. 

Tea, 194. 

Time table for roasted meats, 273. For boiled meats, 274. For fish, 274. For vegetables, 274. Bread, cake, &c. , 275. 

Toast, dry or buttered, 192. For sick, 266. Milk, 193, 266, water, 193, 265. 

Topics for twenty lessons, 285. 

Tomato catchup, 259. Chutney, 257. 

Tomatoes, baked, 206. Canned, 253. Stewed, 206. Fried, 206. Boiled, 207. 

Tongue, boiled, 150. Deviled, 170. 

Tripe, 161. 

Turkey, boiled, 167. Boned, 171. Roasted, 163. 

Turnips, 200. 

Twelve lessons, 282. 

Veal, 156. Cutlets, 159. Loaf, 191. Minced, 192. 

Venison, roast, 157. 

Wafers, 216. 

Waffles, 216. Rice or hominy, 217. 

Water, apple, 269. Toast, 266. Hard, to make soft, 271. Ices, 250. 

Weights and measures, 272. 

Wine whey, 264. 

Yeast, 209. 

SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL. 

_16mo. Cloth. Price, $1. 00. _

Besides being equal to Mrs. Campbell's best work in the past, it isstrikingly original in presenting the ethics of the body as imperiouslyclaiming recognition in the radical cure of inebriety. It forces attentionto the physical and spiritual value of foods, and weaves precedent andprecept into one of the most beguiling stories of recent date. 

 It is the gospel of good food, with the added influence of fresh air, sunlight, cleanliness, and physical exercise that occupy profitably the attention of Helen Campbell. Martha is a baby when the story begins, and a child not yet in her teens when the narrative comes to an end, but she has a salutary power over many lives. Her father is a wise country physician, who makes his chaise, in his daily progress about the hills, serve as his little daughter's cradle and kindergarten. When she gets old enough to understand he expounds to her his views of the sins committed against hygiene, and his lessons sink into an appreciative mind. When he encounters particularly hard cases she applies his principles with unfailing logic, and is able to suggest helpful means of cure. The old doctor is delightfully sagacious in demonstrating how the confirmed pie-eater marries the tea inebriate, with the result in doughnut-devouring, dyspeptic, and consumptive offspring. "What did they die of?" asked little Martha, in the village graveyard; and her father answers solemnly, "Intemperance. " So Martha declares that she will be a "food doctor, " and later on she helps her father in saving several victims of strong drink. The book is one that should find hosts of earnest readers, for its admonitions are sadly needed, not in the country alone, but in the city, where, if better ideas of diet prevail, people have yet as a rule a long way to go before they attain the path of wisdom. Meanwhile it remains true, as Mrs. Campbell makes Dr Scarborough declare, that the cabbage soup and black bread of the poorest French peasants are really better suited to the sustenance of healthy life than the "messes" that pass for food in many parts of rural New England. --_The Beacon. _

_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by thePublishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION. 

A Story. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL, _Author of "Prisoners of Poverty, " "Mrs. Herndon's Income, " "MissMelinda's Opportunity, " "The What-to-do Club, " etc. _

16mo, cloth, price, $1. 00; paper, 50 cents. 

 This story is on the scale of a cabinet picture. It presents interesting figures, natural situations, and warm colors. Written in a quiet key, it is yet moving, and the letter from Bolton describing the fortunate sale of Roger's painting of "The Factory Bell" sends a tear of sympathetic joy to the reader's eye. Roger Berkeley was a young American art student in Paris, called home by the mortal sickness of his mother, and detained at home by the spendthriftness of his father and the embarrassment that had overtaken the family affairs through the latter cause. A concealed mortgage on the old homestead, the mysterious disappearance of a package of bonds intended for Roger's student use, and the paralytic incapacity of the father to give the information which his conscience prompted him to give, have a share in the development of the story. Roger is obliged for the time to abandon his art work, and takes a situation in a mill; and this trying diversion from his purpose is his "probation. " How he profits by this loss is shown in the result. The mill-life gives Mrs. Campbell opportunity to express herself characteristically in behalf of down-trodden "labor. " The whole story is simple, natural, sweet, and tender; and the figures of Connie, poor little cripple, and Miss Medora Flint, angular and snappish domestic, lend picturesqueness to its group of characters. --_Literary World_. 

_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by thePublishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

MISS MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY. 

A STORY. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL, AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB, " "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME, " "PRISONERS OFPOVERTY. "

16mo. Cloth, price, $1. 00; paper covers, 50 cents. 

 "Mrs. Helen Campbell has written 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity' with a definite purpose in view, and this purpose will reveal itself to the eyes of all of its philanthropic readers. The true aim of the story is to make life more real and pleasant to the young girls who spend the greater part of the day toiling in the busy stores of New York. Just as in the 'What-to-do Club' the social level of village life was lifted several grades higher, so are the little friendly circles of shop-girls made to enlarge and form clubs in 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity. '"--_Boston Herald. _

 "'Miss Melinda's Opportunity, ' a story by Helen Campbell, is in a somewhat lighter vein than are the earlier books of this clever author; but it is none the less interesting and none the less realistic. The plot is unpretentious, and deals with the simplest and most conventional of themes; but the character-drawing is uncommonly strong, especially that of Miss Melinda, which is a remarkably vigorous and interesting transcript from real life, and highly finished to the slightest details. There is much quiet humor in the book, and it is handled with skill and reserve. Those who have been attracted to Mrs. Campbell's other works will welcome the latest of them with pleasure and satisfaction. "--_Saturday Gazette. _

 "The best book that Helen Campbell has yet produced is her latest story, 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity, ' which is especially strong in character-drawing, and its life sketches are realistic and full of vigor, with a rich vein of humor running through them. Miss Melinda is a dear lady of middle life, who has finally found her opportunity to do a great amount of good with her ample pecuniary means by helping those who have the disposition to help themselves. The story of how some bright and energetic girls who had gone to New York to earn their living put a portion of their earnings into a common treasury, and provided themselves with a comfortable home and good fare for a very small sum per week, is not only of lively interest, but furnishes hints for other girls in similar circumstances that may prove of great value. An unpretentious but well-sustained plot runs through the book, with a happy ending, in which Miss Melinda figures as the angel that she is. "--_Home Journal. _

_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by thepublishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB

A STORY FOR GIRLS

BY HELEN CAMPBELL. 

16mo. Cloth. Price $1. 50. 

 "'The What-to-do Club' is an unpretending story. It introduces us to a dozen or more village girls of varying ranks. One has had superior opportunities; another exceptional training; two or three have been 'away to school;' some are farmers' daughters; there is a teacher, two or three poor self-supporters, --in fact, about such an assemblage as any town between New York and Chicago might give us. But while there is a large enough company to furnish a delightful coterie, there is absolutely no social life among them. . . . Town and country need more improving, enthusiastic work to redeem them from barrenness and indolence. Our girls need a chance to do independent work, to study practical business, to fill their minds with other thoughts than the petty doings of neighbors. A What-to-do Club is one step toward higher village life. It is one step toward disinfecting a neighborhood of the poisonous gossip which floats like a pestilence around localities which ought to furnish the most desirable homes in our country. '"--_The Chautauquan. _

 "'The What-to-do Club' is a delightful story for girls, especially for New England girls, by Helen Campbell. The heroine of the story is Sybil Waite, the beautiful, resolute, and devoted daughter of a broken-down but highly educated Vermont lawyer. The story shows how much it is possible for a well-trained and determined young woman to accomplish when she sets out to earn her own living, or help others. Sybil begins with odd jobs of carpentering, and becomes an artist so woodwork. She is first jeered at, then admired, respected, and finally loved by a worthy man. The book closes pleasantly with John claiming Sybil as his own. The labors of Sybil and her friends and of the New Jersey 'Busy Bodies, ' which are said to be actual facts, ought to encourage many young women to more successful competition in the battles of life. '"--_Golden Rule. _

 "In the form of a story, this book suggests ways in which young women may make money at home, with practical directions for so doing. Stories with a moral are not usually interesting, but this one is an exception to the rule. The narrative is lively, the incidents probable and amusing, the characters well-drawn, and the dialects various and characteristic. Mrs. Campbell is a natural storyteller, and has the gift of making a tale interesting. Even the recipes for pickles and preserves, evaporating fruits, raising poultry, and keeping bees, are made poetic and invested with a certain ideal glamour, and we are thrilled and absorbed by an array of figures of receipts and expenditures, equally with the changeful incidents of flirtation, courtship, and matrimony. Fun and pathos, sense and sentiment, are mingled throughout, and the combination has resulted in one of the brightest stories of the season. "--_Woman's Journal. _

_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, by publishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME. 

A NOVEL. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL. 

AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB. "

One volume. 16mo. Cloth. $1. 50. 

 "Confirmed novel-readers who have regarded fiction as created for amusement and luxury alone, lay down this book with a new and serious purpose in life. The social scientist reads it, and finds the solution of many a tangled problem; the philanthropist finds in it direction and counsel. A novel written with a purpose, of which never for an instant does the author lose sight, it is yet absorbing in its interest. It reveals the narrow motives and the intrinsic selfishness of certain grades of social life; the corruption of business methods; the 'false, fairy gold, ' of fashionable charities, and 'advanced' thought. Margaret Wentworth is a typical New England girl, reflective, absorbed, full of passionate and repressed intensity under a quiet and apparently cold exterior. The events that group themselves about her life are the natural result of such a character brought into contact with real life. The book cannot be too widely read. "--_Boston Traveller. _

 "If the 'What-to-do Club' was clever, this is decidedly more so. It is a powerful story, and is evidently written in some degree, we cannot quite say how great a degree, from fact. The personages of the story are very well drawn, --indeed, 'Amanda Briggs' is as good as anything American fiction has produced. We fancy we could pencil on the margin the real names of at least half the characters. It is a book for the wealthy to read that they may know something that is required of them, because it does not ignore the difficulties in their way, and especially does not overlook the differences which social standing puts between class and class. It is a deeply interesting story considered as mere fiction, one of the best which has lately appeared. We hope the authoress will go on in a path where she has shown herself so capable. "--_The Churchman. _

 "In Mrs. Campbell's novel we have a work that is not to be judged by ordinary standards. The story holds the reader's interest by its realistic pictures of the local life around us, by its constant and progressive action, and by the striking dramatic quality of scenes and incidents, described in a style clear, connected, and harmonious. The novel-reader who is not taken up and made to share the author's enthusiasm before getting half-way through the book must possess a taste satiated and depraved by indulgence in exciting and sensational fiction. The earnestness of the author's presentation of essentially great purposes lends intensity to her narrative. Succeeding as she does in impressing us strongly with her convictions, there is nothing of dogmatism in their preaching. But the suggestiveness of every chapter is backed by pictures of real life. "--_New York World. _

_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by thepublishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

PRISONERS OF POVERTY. 

WOMEN WAGE-WORKERS: THEIR TRADES AND THEIR LIVES. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL, AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB, " "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME, " "MISS MELINDA'SOPPORTUNITY, " ETC. 

16mo. Cloth. $1. 00. Paper, 50 cents. 

 The author writes earnestly and warmly, but without prejudice, and her volume is an eloquent plea for the amelioration of the evils with which she deals. In the present importance into which the labor question generally has loomed, this volume is a timely and valuable contribution to its literature, and merits wide reading and careful thought. --_Saturday Evening Gazette. _

 She has given us a most effective picture of the condition of New York working-women, because she has brought to the study of the subject not only great care but uncommon aptitude. She has made a close personal investigation, extending apparently over a long time; she has had the penetration to search many queer and dark corners which are not often thought of by similar explorers; and we suspect that, unlike too many philanthropists, she has the faculty of winning confidence and extracting the truth. She is sympathetic, but not a sentimentalist; she appreciates exactness in facts and figures; she can see both sides of a question, and she has abundant common sense. --_New York Tribune. _

 Helen Campbell's "Prisoners of Poverty" is a striking example of the trite phrase that "truth is stranger than fiction. " It is a series of pictures of the lives of women wage-workers in New York, based on the minutest personal inquiry and observation. No work of fiction has ever presented more startling pictures, and, indeed, if they occurred in a novel would at once be stamped as a figment of the brain. . . . Altogether, Mrs. Campbell's book is a notable contribution to the labor literature of the day, and will undoubtedly enlist sympathy for the cause of the oppressed working-women whose stories do their own pleading. --_Springfield Union. _

 It is good to see a new book by Helen Campbell. She has written several for the cause of working-women, and now comes her latest and best work, called "Prisoners of Poverty, " on women wage-workers and their lives. It is compiled from a series of papers written for the Sunday edition of a New York paper. The author is well qualified to write on these topics, having personally investigated the horrible situation of a vast army of working-women in New York, --a reflection of the same conditions that exist in all large cities. 

 It is glad tidings to hear that at last a voice is raised for the woman side of these great labor questions that are seething below the surface calm of society. And it is well that one so eloquent and sympathetic as Helen Campbell has spoken in behalf of the victims and against the horrors, the injustices, and the crimes that have forced them into conditions of living--if it can be called living--that are worse than death. It is painful to read of these terrors that exist so near our doors, but none the less necessary, for no person of mind or heart can thrust this knowledge aside. It is the first step towards a solution of the labor complications, some of which have assumed foul shapes and colossal proportions, through ignorance, weakness, and wickedness. --_Hartford Times. _

_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by thepublishers_, LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. 

Transcriber's Notes for e-book:

In this book, spelling is inconsistent, but is generally left as found inthe original scans used for transcription. Some of the most commoninconsistencies are noted below. If you are using this book for research, please verify any spelling or punctuation with another source. 

Spelling variants: omelet(te), omlet souflé(e) Gouffé(e) cocoanut, cocoa-nut dishcloth, dish-cloth forcemeat, force-meat oilcloth, oil-cloth popovers, pop-overs schoolgirls, school-girls storeroom, store-room underdone, under-done underwear, under-wear

Obvious typos corrected: identital for identical cacoa-nut for cocoa-nut BOILED for BROILED