[Frontispiece: A $3, 400 House. ]

The COMPLETE HOME

EDITED BY

CLARA E. LAUGHLIN

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY

NEW YORK

1907

Copyright, 1906, by

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY

_Published November, 1906_

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

CHOOSING A PLACE TO LIVE

By OLIVER R. WILLIAMSON

Taste and expedience--Responsibilities--Renting, buying orbuilding--Location--City or country--Renunciations--Schools andchurches--Transportation--The butcher, the baker, and the candlestickmaker--The home acre--Comparative cost in renting--The locationsense--Size of lot--Position--Outlook and inlook--Trees--Income andexpenditure--Style--Size--Plans for building--Necessary rooms--The sickroom--Room to entertain--The "living room"--The dining room andkitchen--The sleeping rooms--Thinking it out

CHAPTER II

FLOORS, WALLS, AND WINDOWS

By OLIVER R. WILLIAMSON

The necessity of good floors--Material and cost of laying--Ornamentalflooring--Waxed, varnished, and oiled floors--Carpets, linoleum, andmats--The stairway--Rugs--Oriental rugs--Kitchen and upperfloors--Matting and cardoman cloth--Uses of the decorator--Wood indecoration--Panels and plaster--The beamed ceiling--Paint, paper, andcalcimine--Shades and curtains--Leaded panes and casements--Storm windows

CHAPTER III

LIGHTING AND HEATING

By OLIVER R. WILLIAMSON

Necessity of sunlight--Kerosene--Gas and matches--Electriclight--Pleasing arrangement--Adaptability--Protection--Regulatedlight--The two sure ways of heating--The hot-air furnace--Direction ofheat--Registers--Hot water and steam heat--Indirect heating--Summary

CHAPTER IV

FURNITURE

By OLIVER R. WILLIAMSON

The quest of the beautiful--Ancient designs--The Arts and Crafts--Missionfurniture--Comfort, aesthetic and physical--Older models infurniture--Mahogany and oak--Substantiality--Superfluity--Hallfurniture--The family chairs--The table--Thedavenport--Bookcases--Sundries--Willow furniture--The diningtable--Discrimination in choice

CHAPTER V

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

Linen, past and present--Bleached and"half-bleached"--Damask--Quality--Design--Price and size--Necessarysupply--Plain, hemstitched, or drawn--Doilies and tabledressing--Centerpieces--Monograms--Care of table linen--How tolaunder--Table pads--Ready-made bed linen--Price and quality--Reallinen--Suggestions about towels

CHAPTER VI

THE KITCHEN

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

The plan--Location and finish--The floor--The windows--The sink--Thepantry--Insects and their extermination--The refrigerator and itscare--Furnishing the kitchen--The stove--The table and its care--Thechairs--The kitchen cabinet--Kitchen utensils

CHAPTER VII

THE LAUNDRY

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

Laundry requisites--The stove and furnishings--Irons andholders--Preparing the "wash"--Removing stains--Soaking andwashing--Washing powders and soap--Washing woolens--Washing the whiteclothes--Starch--Colored clothes--Stockings--Dainty laundering--How towash silk--Washing blankets--Washing curtains--Tidying up andsprinkling--Care of irons--How to iron

CHAPTER VIII

TABLE FURNISHINGS

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

Dining-room cheer--Stocking the china-cupboard--The groundwork--Coursesets--Odd pieces--Silver and plate--Glass--Arrangement--Duties of thewaitress--The breakfast table--Luncheon--Dinner--The formal dinner--Theformal luncheon--Washing glass--Washing and cleaning silver--How to washchina--Care of knives

CHAPTER IX

THE BEDROOM

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

Light and air--Carpets versus rugs--Mattings--Wall covering--Bedroomwoodwork--Bedroom draperies--Bedroom furnishing--Carefulselection--Toilet and dressing tables--Further comforts--Thebedstead--Spring, mattress, and pillows--Bed decoration--Simplicity--Careof bedroom and bed--Vermin and their extermination

CHAPTER X

THE BATH ROOM

By OLIVER R. WILLIAMSON

Plumbing--Bath room location and furnishing--The tub--The lavatory--Thecloset--Hot water and how to get it--Bath room fittings

CHAPTER XI

CELLAR, ATTIC, AND CLOSETS

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

The cellar floor--Ventilation--The partitioned cellar--Order in thecellar--Shelves and closets--The attic--Order and care ofattic--Closets--The linen closet--Clothes closets--The chinacloset--Closet tightness--Closet furnishings--Care of closets and contents

CHAPTER XII

HANGINGS, BRIC-A-BRAC, BOOKS, AND PICTURES

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

The charm of drapery--Curtains--Portières--Bric-a-brac--The growth ofgood taste--Usefulness with beauty--Considerations inbuying--Books--Their selection--Sets--Binding--Paper--Pictures--Artsense--The influence of pictures--Oil paintings--Engravings andphotographs--Suitability of subjects--Hanging of pictures

CHAPTER XIII

THE NICE MACHINERY OF HOUSEKEEPING

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

Monday--Tuesday--Wednesday--Thursday--Friday--Saturday--Housecleaning--Preparation--Cleaning draperies, rugs, carpets--Cleaningmattings and woodwork--Cleaning beds

CHAPTER XIV

HIRED HELP

By SARAH CORY RIPPEY

The general housemaid--How to select a maid--Questions andanswers--Agreements--The maid's leisure time--Dress and personalneatness--Carelessness--The maid's room--How to train a maid--The dailyroutine--Duties of cook and nurse--Servant's company

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A $3, 400 House. . . . . . . . Frontispiece

A Unique Arrangement of the Porch

A Homelike Living Room

An Attractive and Inexpensive Hall

An Artistic Staircase Hall

An Oriental Rug of Good Design: Shirvan

Good Examples of Chippendale and Old Walnut

A Chippendale Secretary

The Dining Room

The Kitchen

The Laundry

Wedgwood Pottery, and Silver of Antique Design

A Collection of Eighteenth-century Cut Glass

The Bedroom

The Bathroom

The Drawing-room

THE COMPLETE HOME

CHAPTER I

CHOOSING A PLACE TO LIVE

Blessed indeed are they who are free to choose where and how they shalllive. Still more blessed are they who give abundant thought to theirchoice, for they may not wear the sackcloth of discomfort nor scatterthe ashes of burned money. 

TASTE AND EXPEDIENCE

Most of us have a theory of what the home should be, but it is stowedaway with the wedding gifts of fine linen that are cherished for ourpermanent abode. We believe in harmony of surroundings, but afterliving, within a period of ten years or so, in seven differentapartments with seven different arrangements of rooms and sevendifferent schemes of decoration, we lose interest in suiting one thingto another. Harmony comes to mean simply good terms with the janitor. Or if (being beginners) we have some such prospect of nomadic livingfacing us, and we are at all knowing, we realize the utter helplessnessof demonstrating our good taste, purchase any bits of furniture that avagrant fancy may fasten upon, and give space to whatever gimcracks ourfriends may foist upon us, trusting that in the whirligig of removalsthe plush rocker, the mission table, and the brass parlor stand mayeach find itself in harmony with something else at one time or another. Some day we shall be freed from the tyranny of these conditions andthen----!

RESPONSIBILITIES

But when the time comes to declare our independence of landlord andjanitor, or at least to exchange existence in a flat for life in arented cottage, we find that freedom brings some perplexingresponsibilities as well as its blessings. Even if our hopes do notsoar higher than the rented house, there is at least the desire for areasonable permanency, and we have no longer the excuse of custom-bredtransitoriness to plead for our lack of plan. Where the home is to bepurchased for our very own the test of our individuality becomes moreexacting. A house has character, and some of the standards that applyto companionship apply to it. In fact, we live with it, as well as init. And if we have a saving conscience as to the immeasurability ofhome by money standards we are not to be tempted by the veriest bargainof a house that does not nearly represent our ideals. To blunder hereis to topple over our whole Castle of Hope. 

RENTING, BUYING OR BUILDING

But the test is most severe of all when good fortune permits us tochoose locality, site, and building plans, and to finish and furnishthe house to suit our tastes, even though less in accordance with ourfull desires than with our modest means. Now we may bring out ourtheory of living from its snug resting place. It will need somefurbishing up, maybe, to meet modern conditions, but never mind!

Whether we mean to rent, to buy, or to build, the problem of where andwhat and how is before us. As folk of wholesome desires, we insistfirst of all upon good taste, comfort, and healthfulness in ourhabitats; and since we may agree upon the best way to attain theseessentials without ignoring our personal preferences in details, we mayprofitably take counsel together as to what the new home should be. 

LOCATION

Thought of a location should begin with the birth of the home idea, even if the purchase-money be not immediately available. We should notonly take sufficient time to study conditions and scheme carefully forthe home, but must sagaciously bear in mind that where real estate isin active demand anxiety to purchase stiffens prices. To bide one'stime may mean a considerable saving. However, life, as we plan now tolive it, is short enough at most, and we should not cheat ourselves outof too much immediate happiness by waiting for the money-savingopportunity. 

The question of neighborhood, if we decide to remain within citylimits, is a difficult one. In most of the larger places no one canaccurately foretell the future of even the most attractive residencedistrict. Factories and business houses may not obtrude, but flats arealmost sure to come. Few cottages are being constructed in cities, partly because of lack of demand, but principally because they do notpay sufficient income on the investment. Consequently the houses thatare to be had are seldom modern. Sometimes they pass into the hands ofcareless tenants and the neighborhood soon shows deterioration. Still, if we are determined to remain in the city and take our chances, it ispossible by careful investigation to discover congenial surroundings. Many of the essential tests of the suburban home that we shall discusshereafter will apply also to the house in a strictly residence districtof a large city; practically all of them to the house in a smaller town. 

CITY OR COUNTRY

The chances are, however, that we shall choose the suburb. But beforewe desert J 72, or whatever our shelf in the apartment building may be, we may well remind ourselves that we are also to desert some of thethings that have made city life enjoyable. For one thing, with all ourgrowling at the landlord, we have been able to cast upon him manyburdens that we are now to take upon ourselves. Some of our sarcasmsare quite certain to come home to roost. The details of purchasingfuel, of maintaining heat, of making repairs, are now to come under ourjurisdiction, and we shall see whether we manage these duties betterthan the man who is paid a lump sum to assume them. 

RENUNCIATIONS

Living in a flat, or even in a city house, we do not know, nor care toknow, who the people above or next door to us may be; and they are inprecisely the same position with regard to us. Mere adjacency gives usno claim upon their acquaintance, nor does it put us at the mercy oftheir insistence. Our calling list is not governed by locality, and wecan cut it as we wish without embarrassment. Choice is not so easy inthe suburb. There, willynilly, we must know our neighbors and be knownby them. Fortunately, in most instances they will be found to be ofthe right sort, if not fully congenial. 

The theater, too, must become rather a red-letter diversion than aregular feature of our existence, if it has been so. Whateverenthusiasm we may possess for the opera, an occasional visit, with itsmidnight return, will soon come to satisfy us. Our pet lectures, clublife, participation in public affairs, frequent mail delivery, convenience of shopping, two-minute car service, and freedom from timetables--these suggest what we have to put behind us when we pass thecity gates. 

It is also the part of wisdom not to forget that, though the country isalive with delights for us when all nature is garbed in green and thesongbirds carol in the elms and maples, there cometh a time--if we areof the north--when fur caps are in season, the coal scoop is in everyman's hand, the snow shovel splintereth, and the lawn mower is at rest. Then it is that our allegiance to country life will be strained, ifever--particularly if we have provided ourselves with a ten-minute walkto the station. Wading through snow against a winter wind, we see the"agreeable constitutional" of the milder days in a different light. 

We should think of all these things, and of some sacrifices purelypersonal. It is better to think now than after the moving man's billhas come in. Reason as we may, regrets will come, perhaps loneliness. But the compensations, if we have chosen wisely, will be increasinglyapparent, and we shall be the very exceptions of exceptions if, beforethe second summer has passed, we are not wedded beyond divorce to thenew home. 

Once determined upon forswearing urban residence, a multitude ofconsiderations arise. First of these is "Which place?" Our suburbantowns have been developed in two ways. Some are "made to order, " whileothers were originally rural villages but have come under metropolitaninfluence. Living in the latter is likely to be less expensive, andlocal life may have more of a distinctive character; but the husk ofthe past is almost certain to be evident in the mixture of old andmodern houses and in a certain offish separation of the native andincoming elements. The "made-to-order" town is likely to exhibitbetter streets and sidewalks, to be more capably cared for, to be freerfrom shanties, and to possess no saloons. Land and living may demandgreater expenditure, but they will be worth the difference. 

SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES

With ninety-nine out of a hundred families the deciding argument infavor of going to the suburb has just got into short dresses and begunto say "Da-da. " Already we see pointings to the childish activitiesthat we would not check. No one who stops to think about it chooses tohave his children play in the city streets or be confined to a flatduring the open months. For the children's sake, if not for our own, we turn to the country, and one of our first thoughts is for thechildren's school. 

I called on a young business acquaintance recently and found himengrossed in examining a pile of college catalogues. "Going in for apost-grad?" I inquired. "Why, haven't you heard?" he responded. "It'sa boy--week ago Saturday. Er--would you say Yale or Harvard?"

This was preparedness with a vengeance, to be sure; but almost beforewe realize that infancy is past, the boy and girl will be ready forschool, and it is important to know that the right school will be readyfor them. Happily, the suburban school is usually of specialexcellence, and the chief thought must be of distance and whether thechildren will need to cross dangerous railroad tracks. 

We shall, of course, wish to be where there are strong churches, with asociety of our chosen denomination, if possible. It may be that thesocial life which has its center there will provide all the relaxationwe require; if we seek outside circles, it is desirable to know whetherwe are likely to please and be pleased. Always there is the suburbanclub; but not always is the suburban club representative of the reallybest people of the town. 

TRANSPORTATION

On the practical side a question of large importance is that oftransportation. The fast trains may make the run in twenty minutes, but we shall not always catch the fast trains, and the others may takeforty. Morning and evening they should be so frequent that we need notlose a whole hour on a "miss. " In stormy weather we must find shelterin the station, comfortable or uncomfortable. On the husband's monthlyticket the rides may cost only a dime; when the wife and her visitingfriends go to the matinée each punch counts for a quarter, and fourquarters make a dollar. To the time of the train must be added thewalk or ride from the downtown station to the office, and the returnwalk from the home station. A near-by electric line for emergenciesmay sometimes save an appointment. None of these things alone willprobably give pause to our plans, but all will weigh in our generalsatisfaction or disagreement with suburban life. 

THE BUTCHER, THE BAKER, AND THE CANDLE-STICK MAKER

Not every suburb is blessed with a perfectly healthful water supply. We must make sure of that. We want to find stores and marketssufficient to our smaller needs, at least, and to be within citydelivery bounds, so that the man of the house shall not be required tomake of himself a beast of burden. We hope, if we must employ a cook, that the milkman, iceman, and grocery boy will prove acceptable to her, for the policeman is sure to be a dignified native of family. We wantthe telephone without a prohibitive toll, electric light and gas ofgood quality at reasonable rates, streets paved and well cared for, sidewalks of cement, reasonable fire and police protection, aprogressive community spirit, and a reputation for our town that willmake us proud to name it as our place of abode. 

THE HOME ACRE

All these things may be had in scores of American suburbs and smallercities. But when we have selected the one or more towns that mayplease us, and get down to the house or lot, our range of choice willbe found rather narrow. In the neighborhoods we would select, it isprobable that few houses are to be rented. Most of them have beenbuilt for occupancy by their owners, who, if forced to go elsewhere, have preferred selling to renting. There is no prejudice againstrenters, but the sentiment is against renting, and this sentiment iswell grounded in common sense. Still, some families find it advisableto rent for a year or so, meanwhile studying the local conditions andselecting a building site. This plan has much to commend it, though itmakes a second move necessary. Others, who do not feel assured that achange in business will not compel an early removal, wisely prefer torent, if a suitable house can be found for what they can afford to pay. 

COMPARATIVE COST IN RENTING

The proportion of income that may be set aside for rent depends on whatthat payment covers. In a steam-heated city flat with complete janitorservice, for instance, the rent at $40 is really no higher than the $25suburban house, for heat and water rent are included. With the former, perhaps as much as a third of one's income could be spared for thefixed charge of rent; but in the country the proportion cannot withsafety be greater than a fifth. Few satisfactory suburban houses canbe rented under $35, and to this must be added the cost not only ofcoal and water, but of maintenance. On the whole, we are pretty sureto decide that it is better and cheaper to buy than to rent. 

THE LOCATION SENSE

There is some advantage in being able to secure a lot in a squarealready built up. If present conditions are satisfactory we may feelreasonably sure that they will remain so. We know who our neighborsare to be, the sort of houses and other improvements that will affectthe sightliness and value of our own property, and the surroundingsthat should in some degree govern the style of our abode. There islittle of the speculative in such a choice, but we shall have to paysomething extra for our assurances. 

In a well built-up town, however, we are likely to find a more eligiblenatural site at less cost if we are not too insistent upon being closeto the railway station. The best sites in the older sections arealready occupied or are held at a premium. If we have an eye forlocation and the courage of our convictions, we may chance upon anexcellent lot that can be had for a comparatively small price becauseof its detachment. It may be so situated that the approach is throughthe choicest part of the village, affording us much of the charm ofsuburban life without additional cost. Provided sewer, water, light, sidewalks, and paving are in, a little greater distance from the centermay be well repaid by the beauty of the site, and after the familybecomes accustomed to it the distance is scarcely noticed. Where thereare telephones and local delivery of mail and groceries, occasions forgoing uptown are not frequent. 

SIZE OF LOT

The lot should have at least 50 foot frontage; and be from 150 to 200feet in depth. Many subdivisions are now platted without alleys, whichare not desirable unless scrupulously maintained. The site should, ifpracticable, be on a plateau or elevation that gives an outlook, or atleast make natural drainage certain. A lot below street level meansexpensive filling to be done. 

POSITION

There can be little question as to the special desirability of an eastfrontage. With this exposure the morning sunlight falls upon theliving room when least in use, while the afternoon glare finds theprincipal work of the kitchen accomplished. The indispensable verandaon the east and south is also usable for a maximum portion of the day, while the more solid side of the structure, being opposed to theprevailing winter winds, makes the heating problem easier. 

[Illustration: A unique arrangement of the porch. ]

OUTLOOK AND INLOOK

Though we should not pay too much premium for an east front, it isalways most salable, and the difference will come back if we shoulddispose of the property later. Outlook and protection against beingshut in should be assured. Our own property may be "gilt edge, " but ifthe man across the way has backed up a barn or chicken yard in front ofus our joy in life will be considerably lessened. Our home is both tolook at and to look out from, and we do more of the latter than of theformer. There are only two ways to make sure of not being shut in, unless the adjacent lots are already improved. These are to buy enoughground to give space on either side, or to secure a corner. Sometimesa corner at a higher price is the cheaper in the end. 

Certainly it is advisable, even though our own house be nothigh-priced, to discover if there is a building restriction to preventthe erection of cheap structures near by. This is regulated usually bya stipulation in the deeds from the original subdivider. Without thisguaranty even a high price for lots does not insure that some fellowwho has put most of his money into the ground may not put up a woodshednext door and live in it until he can build a house. We shall not findit amiss either, to know something of the character of the owners ofthe adjoining property, for if they are real-estate men there is aprobability of their putting up houses built to sell. Non-residentowner may be expected to allow their vacant lots to remain unkempt andto object to all improvement assessments. 

TREES

Trees on the lot are a valuable asset, though dislike for sacrificingthem, if carried too far, may result in shutting out the sunlight thatis more essential than shade to health. Cottonwood, willows, and eventhe pretty catalpa are to be shunned in the interest of tidiness. On a50- or even 100-foot lot we cannot have many trees withoutovershadowing the house. A few away from the building, not crowdedtogether, will give more satisfaction than a grove and be less adetriment to health. Ordinarily grass will not grow to advantage wherethere is much shade; and a beautiful lawn, though open to the sunlight, is not only more attractive but much more serviceable than ground inheavy shadow and covered with sparse grass. 

INCOME AND EXPENDITURE

Prices of vacant property in different sections vary so greatly thatone cannot safely approximate the cost of a building lot. It is safeto say, though, that if values are figured on a proper basis, asatisfactory site for a moderate-priced home can be purchased for$1, 000 in the town of our choice. 

We have made it clear to ourselves that a home--anyone's home--shouldbe much more than a house plumped down upon any bit of ground that willhold it. When we come to consider the house itself, we are confrontedby the knowledge that here the tastes and habits, as well as the sizeand resources of the family, must govern the decision of many problemsconsidered. Numbers alone are not always a fair guide, for sometimesthe man or the woman of the house, or the baby, counts for much morethan one in figuring space requirements. 

We have in mind here that we are a family of four, that we have anincome of from $1, 500 to $2, 500, and that we are prepared to spend orobligate ourselves to spend from $2, 000 to $3, 500 for a house to go ona lot to cost $1, 000. The house we think of would be not too large fortwo and certainly would comfortably accommodate five or even six, depending upon their relations to one another. The extremes of incomementioned would scarcely affect our plans, and the difference in costis accounted for by the choice of nonessentials and not by differencesin the principal features of the house. 

STYLE

Now, if we have already set our hearts upon having a house just likethat "love of a place" we saw in Wayout-on-the-Hill the other day, weshall have to reconsider the entire lot proposition. We may as wellface the fact that the house which is everything appropriate andartistic in one place may in another be simply grotesque. In thisphase of the selective work we will profit by the advice of thearchitect, if he be something of an artist and not simply adraughtsman. At any rate, if we have the lot, let us decide what styleof house should be on it; if we are surely settled upon the house, thenby all means let us get a lot it will fit--and have a care, too, withregard to the style of architecture (or lack of it) in our prospectiveneighbors' houses. 

There have been two extremes in later American homearchitecture--overornamentation and absolute disregard for appearance. The first arose from a feeling that every dollar spent in the interestof art (!) should be so gewgawed to the outer world that all who passedmight note the costliness and wonder. The second extreme had its birthin an elementary practicality that believes anything artistic must beboth extravagant and useless. 

None of us can afford to build a house merely for its artisticqualities. Yet we feel that we owe it to our neighbors and to thecommunity to make the house sightly. Most of all, we owe it toourselves, for the product of our plans will be the concrete expressionof our personality. Fortunately showiness is neither necessary nordesirable; while artistic qualities are not so much a matter of moneyas of thought. A few days ago, in a suburb of a Western city, I passedtwo houses recently constructed. One was simply an enlarged drygoodsbox with a few windows and doors broken into its sides--altogether ahideous disfigurement to the charming spot on which it was erected. Across the way stood the other cottage, with the same number of roomsas its _vis-à-vis_, but really exquisite in its simple beauty. And thelatter, I was told, though equally spacious, cost less than themonstrosity across the way! Into the one, there was put thought; intothe other none. Can we resist an opinion as to which home will behappier?

SIZE

Should we be somewhat limited in funds, we may have to make a selectionbetween a large house finished in cheaper materials and a small houseof the best quality all through. Doubtless much of the "hominess" thatattaches us to some houses is due to their snugness, but not all of it. Size is secondary to adaptation to the family requirements. Wastespace is an abomination, because it adds unnecessarily to the burden ofthe housekeeper; yet to be so cramped that everything must be movedevery day is not a satisfactory alternative. There should be somereserve not only for emergencies but for future needs that may beforeseen. As the children grow up they will demand more room, and weshall want to give it to them. If we do not care to maintain surplusspace for possible needs, the house should at least be planned with aview to making additions that will be in keeping with the generaleffect and will readily fall in with the practical arrangement of thehouse. 

What is said about emergency space applies principally to the sleepingapartments. There is an altogether happy tendency in these days tosimplify the living rooms and to plan them for constant use. We of theEast have something to learn from the Californians, whose bungalows andcottages are so often models of simplicity without the crudeness ofmost small houses in other sections. Our coast brethren havedemonstrated that a four- or five-room cottage will satisfactorilyhouse a considerable family, and that it may be given thecharacteristics that charm without increasing the cost. 

PLANS FOR BUILDING

The simplest and in many instances the prettiest cottages are of only asingle story. But more than four rooms in one story makes acomparatively expensive house, besides using up a great deal of ground. With the foundation, first story, and roof provided for, the secondstory adds little to the cost compared to the space gained. Whereground and labor are cheap the single story is to be considered; but inmost places it would not be practicable for us. 

In planning the house due regard must be had for the dispositions ofthe respective members of the family. In any event we shall not pleaseall of them, but the less the others have to complain about the happierthe rest of us shall be. 

NECESSARY ROOMS

If paterfamilias is accustomed to depositing his apparel and otherbelongings rather promiscuously about, expecting to find things wherethey were left on his return in the evening, it may be better to planhis room where it may stand undisturbed rather than to attempt thebreaking of a habit which shows that he feels at home in his own house. Likewise, some place there should be where the mistress may conduct hersewing operations without wildly scrambling to clean up when thedoorbell rings; the children should have at least one place in thehouse where they may "let loose" on a rainy day, and the master shouldhave somewhere a retreat safe from interruption, as well as a workroomin the basement in which the tools and implements that quicklyaccumulate in a country home may be secure. 

THE SICK ROOM

Sickness, too, may come, and the questions of privacy without anunwholesome curb upon both children and adults, of convenience to hotwater and the bathroom, of saving steps for the nurse, should bethought of. An upstairs chamber is likely to be best on account of theventilation, lighting, and distance from ordinary noises; but frequentjourneys to the kitchen mean an excess of stair climbing. Whetherthere be sickness or not, there should be somewhere provision forindividual privacy, where absolute rest may be gained. 

A large indulgence in entertaining must have its influence in settlingboth size and arrangement. Ordinarily, however, we may expect to bereasonably hospitable without enlarging our home into a clubhouse. Ifwe do not consider this matter in building, propriety must compel usafterwards to limit our company to numbers that we can comfortably carefor. 

ROOM TO ENTERTAIN

A good many of us who have contrived very nicely to live in a six-roomcity flat seem to think that we cannot get along with that number ofrooms in a suburban house, though the latter would be considerably morespacious, not taking the basement into account. So far, however, asabsolute essentials go, a six-room house, carefully planned, willprovide for a family of four very comfortably, and it can be built inan artistic and modern style for $2, 500 near Chicago, about ten percent. More in the vicinity of New York, and probably for a less sum insmaller cities. An eight-room house would cost about a third more, andis, of course, in many ways more desirable. But, generally speaking, we demand more room than we really need, and then put ourselves toadditional expense filling up the space with unnecessary furniture. 

THE "LIVING ROOM"

In small houses there cannot be great variation in the proportioning ofspace, but it is important that the use of each room should be wellunderstood and that it should be planned accordingly. If that is notdone our decorative and furnishing schemes later on will be misapplied. Families differ as to their dispositions toward rooms. Most of uswould not think of calling for an old-fashioned parlor in a small housenowadays, but merely to change the name from "parlor" to "living room"doesn't change our habits. The living room is meant to take the placeof parlor, library, reception hall, and sitting room. If the familyadjust themselves to it a great saving of space is effected, and thehome life is given added enjoyment. Not all of us, however, can fitourselves to new ideas, and it is better to suit ourselves than to beuncomfortable and feel out of place in the home. 

[Illustration: A homelike living room. ]

The living-room plan in a small house reduces the reception hall tosomething little more than a vestibule, but where six rooms areexceeded the reception hall may be enlarged and made serviceable. Thefirst impression counts for much, not only with our guests but withourselves, and if the hall be appropriately finished and fitted itseems fairly to envelop one with its welcome. One thing that must beinsured, whatever form the entrance may take, is that it shall not benecessary to pass through the living room to reach other parts of thehouse. 

THE DINING ROOM AND KITCHEN

Vastness is not essential to the dining room. Under usual conditionswe are not likely to seat more than a dozen persons at our table, and adinner party exceeding that number is too large for common enjoyment. Connection with the kitchen should be convenient without having theproximity too obvious. City kitchens are now usually made just largeenough to accommodate required paraphernalia and to afford sufficientfreeway for the cook. Many families do no home baking, and where fruitand vegetables are preserved the basement is utilized. Compactness inthe kitchen saves hundreds of steps in the course of a day, and thoughit is difficult for us to forget the spacious room thought necessary byour parents, we may well learn, for our own comfort, to profit by themodern reasoning that opposes waste space. Still, it is better to defymodern tendencies and even to pain the architect than that the faithfulhouse-keeper who clings tenaciously to the old idea should be mademiserable. Some persons feel perpetually cramped in a small room, whereas others only note the snugness of it. 

THE SLEEPING ROOMS

The general well-being of the family is more directly affected by thecharacter of the bed chambers than by any other department of thehouse. However we may permit ourselves to be skimped in the livingrooms, it is imperative that the sleeping apartments should belarge--not barnlike, of course--well lighted, dry, and airy. Threelarge rooms are in every way preferable to four small ones. It is, tobe sure, sometimes difficult to put the windows where they will let inthe sunlight, the registers where they will heat, and the wall spacewhere it will permit the sleeper to have fresh air without a draught. But marvels in the way of ingenious planning have been evolved wherenecessity, the mother of invention, has ruled; and assuredly there isno greater necessity than a healthful bedroom. 

The children's bedroom in the house of six to eight rooms is likely tobe utilized as a nursery or playroom on rainy days or in winter. Itshould have an abundance of sunlight. The largest and best room of allshould be used by the heads of the household. To reserve the choicestapartment for the chance guest is an absurdity that sensible peoplehave abandoned. If we must, we may surrender our room temporarily tothe visitor, but the persons who live in a house twelve months of theyear are entitled to the best it affords. Flat living has taught us tomake use of all our rooms, and perhaps its influence is againsthospitality; but we need not neglect that very important feature of ahappy home in doing ourselves simple justice. 

THINKING IT OUT

If we would be quite sure of it--to use a Hibernianism--we should livein our house at least a year before it is built. We need animagination that will not only perceive our castle in all its stages ofconstruction but will picture us in possession. Advice is not to bedisdained, and a good architect we shall find to be a blessing; but thehappiness of our home will be in double measure if we can feel thatsomething of ourselves has gone into its creation. And this somethingwe should not expect to manifest genius, or even originality, buttasteful discrimination. 

CHAPTER II

FLOORS, WALLS, AND WINDOWS

Tradition has established the condition of her floors as the prime testof a good house-keeper, and the amount of effort that faithfulhomemakers have had to waste upon splintery, carelessly laid cheapboards would, if it could be represented in money, buy marble footingfor all of us. 

But we don't want marble floors. We are not building a palace or ashowplace, but a house to live in. We are not seeking magnificence, but comfort and durability (which are almost always allied), as well assightliness (which is not always in the combination). 

THE NECESSITY OF GOOD FLOORS

Happily, when we come to floors we find that those which may bedepended upon to endure and to give their share of home comfort arealso the best to look upon. It would be agreeable to say, further, that they cost least, but that would be misleading. This book fails tosay not a few things that would be interesting but which wouldn't be ofmuch real use to the homemaker, because they aren't so. 

Leaving the everlastingly pestiferous question of cost aside, what isthe best all-around flooring? Well, so far no one has been able tosuggest anything that seems so appropriate as a good quality of hardwood--which means oak or maple, or both--properly treated and, aboveall, laid down as it should be. The flooring is a permanent part ofthe house, or, if it isn't, we'll certainly wish it had been. As it issubject to harder and more constant usage than any other part of thestructure, it must be strong, and it must have a surface that willresist wear, or we shall simply store up trouble for the future. It isalso a part of the decorative scheme, and as such must help to furnishthe keynote of our plans. All these requirements are met by hard wood. 

It is possible, we may admit, to have a happy and comfortable home withcheaper flooring; but the price that is not paid in money will beafterwards collected with interest in effort and sacrifice ofsatisfaction. Doubtless it is not wise, as some one suggests, to putso much money into our floors that we cannot afford to buy anything toput on them; but in many instances the appearance of our houseinteriors would be much more pleasing if fewer pieces of superfluousfurniture were brought in to cover the floors. At any rate, thelonged-for furniture may be "saved up for" and bought later; a mistakein floors to start with is hard to rectify. 

MATERIAL AND COST OF LAYING

Oak flooring comes in narrow, thin strips of plain- or quarter-sawed. At this writing the plain-sawed costs, laid, usually 16 cents persquare foot. It will never be cheaper. Where quarter-sawed isdesired, a cent per foot must be added. Borders, which are by no meansessential, cost from 20 to 45 cents per lineal foot (laid). In acountry house, where local artisans do the laying, the expense may besomewhat less for labor. But it must be remembered that fine floorlaying is a trade of itself, and that the time to make sure of the workbeing properly done is when the wood is put in. If the building isproperly constructed, a bulging or cracked floor is unnecessary. Atall events, if we are in doubt as to the village carpenter's skill, wewould do well to pay the few dollars extra for the expert from thecity. Careful measurements are also important, especially with bordersand parquetry. 

ORNAMENTAL FLOORING

The hall, if large, will permit of rather more elaborate treatment thanthe rooms which are to be constantly occupied. No part of the housethat is in use for hours at a time should be at all over-elaborated, particularly in its unchangeable features. Care must be taken even inthe hall to avoid any freakish combination that will either stand outconspicuously or demand a like treatment of the walls. 

[Illustration: An attractive and inexpensive hall. ]

Some folk like tiling in the hall, and if we have little more than avestibule, tiling is quite satisfactory. It is durable and can beeasily cleaned. But if the hall be of the medium or generous size, parquetry will be found more approvable if the expense can be afforded. The designs are richer without being so glaring as many of the tileeffects, and the wood seems to have less harshness. Rubber tiling, however, has been found useful in places where there is frequentpassing in and outdoors, and has been developed in some pleasingdesigns. 

The additional cost for parquetry is not formidable in a moderate-sizedhall. Prices range from 20 to 40 cents per square foot, according todesign. We shall be wisely guided in choosing a simple squarearrangement that will not protest against any passable decoration ofthe walls. Unless the hall is spacious borders would better beomitted. They need to have the effect of running into hearths andstairways, and in a narrow passage the center will be too crowded. 

Dining room and living room suggest the quarter-sawed flooring, theformer admitting perhaps the stronger border, unless the two rooms arein such direct connection that they require continuous treatment. Upstairs, plain-sawed will do nicely for the hall and chambers, andalso for the bathroom if it is not tiled. Borders, of course, may bedispensed with here, as there should be no suggestion ofover-ornamentation in the permanent features of a sleeping room. 

For the kitchen hard maple is found to serve well. One may not find itamiss to inquire into the merits and costs of composition and rubbertiling, but they are not essential to comfort and cleanliness. Here weare concerned with essentials; it is fully understood that we have ourown permission to go farther afield in pursuit of more costly things ifwe choose. 

WAXED, VARNISHED, AND OILED FLOORS

Unless there are small children, expert opinion and the demands ofbeauty favor waxed floors. Ordinarily the floor must he rewaxed aboutevery three months, but a pound of wax, that will cover two ordinarysized rooms, costs only 50 cents, and it may be applied by anyone. Tokeep the floors in best condition the wax brush should be passed overthem every fortnight. 

Varnish floors scratch but are not affected by water, and on the wholeare rather more popular than oil or wax. They cost something less tomaintain, and are less conducive to embarrassing gyratics on the partof dignified persons wearing slippery shoes. 

If we may not demand oak or maple floors, well-laid Georgia pine, carefully oiled or varnished, would be our next choice. There is alarge saving in initial expense, and perhaps some one else will beusing them five years from now! Though we cannot expect to getanything like equal satisfaction from the cheaper wood as compared withoak, if we do feel bound to adopt it we shall have less cause forcomplaint later if we view very carefully the material and theoperations of laying and finishing. Poor workmanship can spoil thebest of materials; what it can do with cheaper stuff is absolutelyunmentionable. Paint may be used on the upper floors and even limitedto a border in the bedrooms. 

CARPETS

The floors would not be quite so important if we were planning toentirely cover up their beauties or their uglinesses with another kindof beauty or ugliness in the form of carpets. But experience has longsince made it clear to all of us that rugs are not only more healthfuland in better taste, but, taken by and large, give less trouble to thehousekeeper than carpets. Owing to the fixed position of the latterthey are, too, quality for quality, less durable. It is true that insome parts of the house a rug or carpet fastened down may be desirable, but with good floors no such thing will suggest itself in the livingrooms at least. 

LINOLEUM AND MATS

Where a very small vestibule is substituted for the reception hall aparquetry or tile flooring would be left uncovered. Over a cheap floora good quality of linoleum, costing about 50 cents per square yard, mayhe placed. A small mat of neat design, if such can be found, will takecare of those persons who have the foot-scraping habit, regardless ofwhat they scrape upon, though the mat outside should do the importantwork. Serviceable mats are seldom things of beauty. As they comeunder the head of floor coverings, it may be well to note that the bestquality leather mat, guaranteed to last twenty years, costs $1. 25 asquare foot. A fair imitation may be had for less than half thatfigure, and has the same proportion of value. The open-steel mat thatserves best with tenacious mud costs 50 cents per square foot, and forrubber we must add a half or double the price, depending on whether wedemand the made-to-order article or are content with stock. The oldreliable cocoa mat may be had from 35 cents per square foot up, and isquite as useful and scarcely uglier than the others. 

THE STAIRWAY

For appearance' sake, if our stairway is well constructed of goodwoods, we should forbear to hide it. But there is no place in thehouse where little Willie can more effectively proclaim to all thehousehold world his possession of double-nailed heels than on theunprotected rises of the stairway. Even the tiny heels of the mistressof the home seem to clump like the boots of a giant in their numberlessjourneys up and down. So the hall runner must have a place. Perhapsthe carpet will be of red or green, depending on the walls, but it needcost little more than $1 per yard for a fair quality. It is put downwith stair pads ($1 per dozen) and ordinary tacks, and the expenditureof 10 cents per yard for a professional layer will not be regretted. The amateur who can do a really good job on a stair carpet is a rarity. 

[Illustration: An artistic staircase hall. ]

RUGS

The Biglow Bagdad domestic rug in 27 by 54 and 36 by 63-inch sizes isinexpensive but looks and wears well in the hall. The first size costsabout $4 and the second $7. A little better quality in Anglo-Indian orAnglo-Persian costs a dollar or so more per rug. Where there isconstant direct use in the hall we will do wisely to get either amoderate-priced article that may be renewed or something expensive thatwill wear indefinitely. Sometimes the latter is the more economicalplan. Very often halls are so shaped that a rug must be made to order. It is better to do this and have a good-sized rug that will lie wellthan to risk tripping and slipping with smaller ones. 

For the living room a variety of choice in rugs is offered. Attemptsto utilize a number of small rugs are not usually joyous in theiroutcome; besides, the floor space is too badly broken up. The largecenter rug holds its own, with some reenforcement in the alcove orperhaps before the hearth. 

What quality the rug shall be depends largely upon the length of ourpurse; yet sagacity and a modest fund will sometimes do more thanplethora and no thought. Design selection is a task to vex the mostpatient, but we must not be drawn into a hurried decision. If we arenear enough to the business house with which we are dealing, it isadvisable to have a selection of rugs sent out for inspection on thefloors. Seen in the salesroom and in our house they may presentdifferent aspects. 

Generally speaking, the showiest designs are in the cheaper goods, andthe showier a cheap article is the quicker its shoddy qualities will bemade manifest. Therefore, if we must count the pennies on ourliving-room rug, let us select a simple design with a goodbody--something that will be unobtrusive even when it begins to appealfor replacement. 

There is a considerable range of Wiltons, from the so-called Wiltonvelvet to the "Royal" Wilton. They are by no means the cheapest, though one may go fabulously beyond them in price; but their popularityshows them to be a good average quality, suited to the home planned ona modest scale. Body Brussels, although not affording such richeffects, also has many friends, and tapestry Brussels may beconsidered. There are names innumerable for rugs and carpets, some ofwhich have little real significance. If one knows a good design whenit is seen, a little common-sense observation of weights and weave anda thoughtful comparison of prices will help to secure the bestselections. Here are some specimen sizes and prices quoted by oneestablishment:

 SIZE. Body Brussels. Biglow Bagdad. Anglo-Indian. 6. 0 x 9. 0. .. .. .. $18. 00 $25. 00 $30. 00 8. 3 x 10. 6. .. .. .. 22. 50 30. 00 45. 00 9. 0 x 10. 6. .. .. .. 25. 00 35. 00 50. 00 10. 6 x 12. 0. .. .. .. 32. 50 45. 00 65. 00 10. 6 x 13. 6. .. .. .. 35. 00 52. 50 75. 00 11. 3 x 15. 0. .. .. .. 42. 50 60. 00 80. 00

Saxony Axminster, 9 by 12, is priced at $45, and is considered to bemore serviceable than most grades of Wilton. 

For the dining room the problem is about the same as for the principalapartment. The rug need not be so expensive as the one in the livingroom, but it must assuredly be of the enduring sort. 

The Scotch Caledon rugs sometimes solve the difficulty here. Indeed, they are not out of place in a really "homey" living room or elsewherein the house. They are made of wool, woven like an ingrain, with nonap, and are especially pleasing for their artistic soft colorings, mostly in green or blue two-tone effects. They are, strictly speaking, not reversible, but some designs will permit use on both sides. Whilethey do not wear quite so well as a Wilton, they come at least a fifthcheaper. Prices range from $9 for a 4. 6 by 7. 6 to $45 for a 12 by 15. 

The sizes we have mentioned are standard. If our rooms have beenplanned in such wise as to require rugs to order we shall have to addten per cent to our expenditures. 

ORIENTAL RUGS

The subject of oriental rugs, to be intelligently discussed, wouldrequire an entire book, and there are books that may be and should bestudied by those who can afford orientals. Most of us cannot. Thereare, indeed, good reasons for the high cost of the genuine oriental, inits superior coloring, wide range of design, and wonderful durability. The right sort grows richer with age. But our plans are not so muchfor posterity as for present uses, and we can get along very wellwithout testing our wits in the oriental rug market. It is a test ofwits, for there are no standards of size or price, and spurious goodssometimes get into the best of hands. Small Daghestans andBaloochistans may be had even lower than $20, but anything we wouldcare to have in living room or dining room would take $150 to $200 fromour bank account. 

[Illustration: An oriental rug of good design: Shirvan. ]

KITCHEN AND UPPER FLOORS

In the kitchen, and perhaps in a rear vestibule, unless the floor is ofa sort to be easily wiped up, linoleum may be demanded. The upper hallwill require a continuation of the stair runner, with perhaps a rug ifit broadens out at the landing. For the bed chambers the question ofindividual use must be thought of. Brussels rugs will do in mostcases. A large rug means considerable shifting to get at the floor, but is the more comfortable. Smaller rugs will permit sweeping underthe bed without moving it far, and should be placed under the casters, which will injure the hard-wood floors if allowed to rest directlythereupon. 

MATTING AND CORDOMAN CLOTH

Next in choice would be to spend 25 or 30 cents a yard for matting andcover the entire floor, adding one or two rugs to head off the shiveryfeeling that arises from a contact of bare feet with cold matting on awinter morning. The casters will cut the matting, too; we must lookout for that. A border of flooring, painted or not, may be left; butgenerally, if anything is to be fastened down, it should cover theentire space, avoiding the ugly accumulation of dust that otherwisegathers under the edges. 

More expensive than matting, but likely to be quite satisfactory, iscordoman cloth, a floor covering that comes in plain colors and may beeasily swept and wiped up. It costs from 45 to 55 cents per yard, andthe wadded cotton lining that goes with it is very cheap. Consideringits greater durability than matting, cordoman is really the moreeconomical, and the homemaker will do well to investigate its merits. 

CHILDREN'S ROOM AND "DEN"

For the children's room linoleum will probably stand the wear and tear, prove more hygienic, and do as much toward deadening noise as anythingshort of an impossible padding could do. On the porch a crex-fiber rugor two--the sort that stand rain and resist moths--may be desired, butthey can wait until we are settled and have found our bearings. The"den, " if there is to be one, or the separate library, may in the oneinstance be left to individual caprice, in the other to good judgmentin suiting it to the prevailing thought. 

USES OF THE DECORATOR

If we have not done so before, when we take up consideration of thewalls we will, if we can afford it, call in a professional decorator. First, of course, we will make sure that he really may be of service tous, for his duty is to give practical and artistic development to themore or less vague ideas of which we have become possessed, and if heseems, from examples of previous work, to be wedded to a "style" of hisown that would not jibe with our aspirations, we would better try tostruggle along without him. 

But it is possible to secure the services of a decorative artist for asum not necessarily tremendous, and if we get hold of a sensible fellowhis advice will be, in the end, worth much more than the extra outlay. If he is a sincere artist, he will plan just as carefully for a modestsix-room cottage as for a mansion, and he will be able to take the goodpoints of our own schemes and adapt them to expert application withoutmaking us feel too insignificant. 

Explicit advice as to decoration, where there are thousands of us, eachin different circumstances and with variant tastes, would be rather anabsurdity. We may emphasize to ourselves, however, a few phases of thedecorative problem in which lack of thought would lose to us some ofthe joys of a house perfected. 

If we are not to employ a decorator we must study out the problem forourselves. To leave it for the painter and paperhanger to settle wouldbe a fatal error. Much knowledge may be gained by the study of booksand magazine articles, provided they are very recent. It will beadvisable to weigh this knowledge in the scales of practicalobservation, however, in houses of late date. This is not so muchbecause of changes in fashion as for the reason that improvements inprocess are always being made, and even the omnipresent folk who writebooks sometimes overlook a point. Concerning fashion, which of coursehas its sway in decoration, we will remember that the simplesttreatment survives longest. 

WOOD IN DECORATION

It seems that with the steady increase in cost of lumber we have grownmore and more to appreciate the beauty of our woods. At any rate, woodis being used more extensively than ever in interior finishing. Thisis in some ways a healthy tendency, as it makes for simplicity andadmits of artistic treatment at a reasonable cost. 

Hall, living room, and dining room, for instance, may be treated with ahigh or low wood wainscoting and wooden panels extending to a woodencornice at the ceiling. The wood may be a weathered oak, and betweenthe panels is a rough plaster in gray or tinted to suit the housescheme. Friezes and plastic cornices are somewhat on the wane, insmaller houses at least; though, of course, they will never go out ofuse altogether. 

PANELS AND PLASTER

This plaster effect is less expensive than 40-cent burlap or ordinarywhite calcimine or paper. The picture molding may be at the bottom ofthe cornice. Sometimes the cornice is dropped to a level with the topsof the doors and windows (usually about seven feet), leaving a friezeof two or three feet, the molding then going to the top of the cornice. Ceilings and friezes of ivory or light yellow are usually in good taste. 

The living room may carry out the panel and plaster effect, but is morelikely to demand a simple paper of good quality with no border. Here, as in the hall, the wooden (or plastic) cornice with no frieze issuggested. Grilles are discarded, and portières are avoided wherepossible. 

THE BEAMED CEILING

In the dining room the beamed ceiling has been found so appropriatethat it continues popular. It is simple, easily maintained, and hasthe broad, deep lines that put one at ease. Here it is advisable tocarry a wooden wainscoting up to about 3 1/2 feet, the panelscontinuing to the ceiling. Tapestry, burlap, or plaster may showabove. Plate shelves are somewhat in disfavor, partly because of abuseand partly because the tendency is to eliminate all dust-catchers thatare not necessities. Where doors and windows are built on a line (asthey should be), shelves are sometimes placed over them. But thereshould not be too many broken lines if we would preserve thecomfortable suggestion of the beamed ceiling. 

PAINT, PAPER, AND CALCIMINE

For the kitchen, painted walls, which can be easily wiped off, andresist steam, are preferable to calcimine. Tiling halfway up will befound still better, but tiling paper, which costs more than painting, is scarcely to be chosen. For the bedrooms the professional decoratorsare disposed to over elaboration. A simple paper, costing 15 to 35cents per roll, is best, or even plain calcimine, which many personsconsider more healthful. The latter costs only $3 or $4 a room and maybe renewed every year or two. Very nice effects are had in aGeorgia-pine panel trimming running to a wood cornice, and in naturalwood or painted white. With this the ceiling should be plain white, and if bright-flowered paper is used, pictures should be discarded. Lively colors, if not too glaring, give a cheerful aspect to the room, but the safer plan is to stick to simplicity. 

In the children's room a three-foot wood wainscoting is desirable. Part of this may be a blackboard without costing more, and at the top ashelf can be placed for toys. Figured nursery papers cost, per roll, from 35 to 75 cents, and will be a never-ceasing source of delight. Ifthe walls are not papered they should be painted, for reasons that neednot be suggested. Isn't it wonderful how far a three-foot boy or girlcan reach?

SHADES AND CURTAINS

We have not advanced much in the production of window shades that willlet in light and air, shut out the gaze of strangers, hold no shadows, match interior and exterior, fit properly, work with ease, cost little, and last forever. The ordinary opaque roller shade still has noserious rival, and usually the best we can do is to see to it that weget a good quality which is not always reliable, rather than a poorquality, which never is. 

The good old lace curtains that were the pride of the housekeeper'sheart and the jest of the masculine members of the household seem tohave had their day. It has been a long one, and any article that holdssway for so lengthy a period must have had some merit. But the softchintz, linen, madras, or muslin is now the vogue, and there is muchgood sense in the innovation. No lace curtain ever made could be bothartistic and serviceable; some persons go so far as to say that theynever were either, but we have too much reverence for tradition to beso iconoclastic. However, they certainly were expensive if they weregood enough to have, were difficult to wash, and usually caused a deadline to be drawn about the very choicest part of the room. Linencurtains, costing from 50 cents to $1. 25 a yard, may be had in a set orconventional design or plain appliqué. Chintz and muslin cost less, and some remarkably pretty effects in madras are obtainable. Curtainsnow sensibly stop at the bottom of the window instead of dragging uponthe floor. 

Besides shades and curtains the window question involves not onlylight, ventilation, and artistic relations, but such details as screensand storm windows. These latter matters come under the jurisdiction ofthe architect and should not be carelessly settled upon. Each room hasits uses, to which the window must conform as nearly as may be, andthen the outward appearance of the house must not be forgotten. It isoften made or marred by the character and placing of the windows. 

LEADED PANES AND CASEMENTS

Leaded or art glass is attractive if not overdone. Small panes aredifficult to keep clean, of course; but we can probably endure that ifall else be equal. In living rooms the upper sash should be madesmaller than the lower, so as to get the median rail above the level ofthe eye. In some parts of the house a horizontal window gives a fineeffect, besides affording light and air without affecting privacy. Casement windows have their points of excellence, and are additionallyexpensive chiefly in hardware. The frames are really cheaper, but theymust be very accurately fitted to avoid leaks. 

Casement windows seriously complicate the screen and storm-windowproblem, and expert planning is necessary. The durability of screensdepends mostly upon their care or abuse, but if it can be afforded, copper wire will usually last sufficiently longer to repay itsadditional cost. Metal frames are not so essential. The best form isthat which covers the entire window and permits both sashes to befreely opened; but this costs practically twice as much as thehalf-window screen. 

STORM WINDOWS

Storm windows should be carefully fitted or they will come far fromserving their purpose. If they are of the right sort they will soonrepay their cost in easing up the furnace. Preferably they should beswung from the top, both for ventilation and washing and to avoid acheck upon egress in case of fire. Some persons object to stormwindows on account of the supposed stoppage of ventilation, but thatrests entirely with the occupants of the house. They can get plenty offresh air without letting the gales of winter have their own sweet will. 

With floors, walls, and windows determined upon, we have a good starton the interior of our house. But we may only pause to take breath, for we now have to give most careful consideration to two decidedlyimportant factors in our comfort--lighting and heating. 

CHAPTER III

LIGHTING AND HEATING

If common sense has governed our proceedings to date, the new house weare building, or the ready-built one we have chosen, will have fulladvantage of the one perfect light--that afforded by the sun. 

NECESSITY OF SUNLIGHT

The health-giving properties of sunlight are so well known to all of usthat we wonder why so many otherwise sensible folk seem to shun it, with trees and vines, awnings and blinds denying access to that whichwould make the house wholesome. When possible, every room in the houseshould have its daily ray bath, and our apartments should utilize thelight of the sun as early and as late as may be. 

Perhaps nature intended all creatures to sleep through the hours ofdarkness. If we had followed that custom we might be a race ofMethuselahs; who knows? Why some one has not established a cult ofsleepers from sunset to dawn is really inexplicable. But mankind ingeneral has persisted in holding to a different notion, and since thesun declines to shine upon us during all the hours of the twenty-four, and we insist upon cutting the night short at one end, we have had todevise substitutes for the sunlight. 

Of course the sunlight does not always leave us in unbroken darkness. Few of us are so far departed from the days of mellow youth as toforget certain summer evenings, linked in memory with verandas orbowered walks, when moonlight--and even that in a modified form--wasthe ideal illumination. But even if we could employ the good fairiesto dip them up for us, we should find the soft moongleams of the summerevening a rather doubtful aid in searching for the cat in the darkcorners of the basement. 

Omitting pine knots, which are rather out of vogue, modern homelighting includes four forms--candles, oil lamps, gas, and electricity. The first-named are not, it is true, used to any extent for what may becalled the practical purposes of lighting; but in many ways their lightis most beautiful of all. Some charming candelabra suited to thedining table are found in the better shops, and an investment in achoice design is a very justifiable extravagance. Candle illuminationis of all varieties the one least trying to the eyes and to thecomplexion, though its effect upon the temper of the person tending thecandles is not so sure to be happy. However, the sort with a hollowcenter, called Helion candles, require little attention, and thepatented candle holders, which work automatically, give no trouble atall. 

KEROSENE

Notwithstanding there are some points in favor of the old reliablekerosene lamp, even when put in the scale with other illuminants, fewpeople of the younger generation regard it as other than something tobe endured. In view of the facts that an oil lamp requires a greatdeal of attention, usually leaves its trail of oil and smoke, isill-smelling, disagreeably hot in summer, and always somewhatdangerous, it is strange that those who cling to it as to a fetich areusually the ones who have longest struggled with its imperfections. The pretext for this conservatism, whether it be spoken or reserved, iseconomy. If we are of this class, we may be shocked to discover that, after all, kerosene lighting is really no cheaper than gas or electriclight, if sufficient illumination is afforded, and insufficientlighting is surely ill-judged economy. 

GAS AND MATCHES

Few communities of respectable size are now without gas or electricity, and even in the country the latter is almost everywhere obtainable. Ifnot, an individual gas plant, of which there are several makes, may beinstalled at a moderate cost. Properly placed, such a plant is safeand easily regulated and will furnish light for somewhat less than theusual charge of the gas companies. 

Gas has never fully supplanted kerosene, even where it is readilyobtained. Why this is true we need not pause to discuss; perhaps afairly well-founded suspicion of the meter has had something to do withit. But certainly no one building a house in these days would fail topipe it for gas if the supply were at hand, even if it were to be usedonly for kitchen fuel. Gas has its virtues as an illuminant also, andis favored by many on account of the softness of the light. 

But while gas is preferable to kerosene, electricity is with equalcertainty preferable to gas. It is more adaptable, is in many placesquite as reasonable in cost, and is cleaner and safer. In numerouscountry communities where gas is not to be had electricity isavailable, as frequently a large region embracing several towns issupplied from a single generating plant. 

Gas is subject to fluctuations in quality, sometimes becoming quitedangerous in its effect upon the atmosphere. Water gas, which is verygenerally manufactured, is said to carry four or five times as muchcarbon monoxide per unit of bulk as retort gas. It has for thehemoglobin of the blood four hundred times the affinity of oxygen, anda proportion of only two tenths of one per cent may produce heartderangement. While we are wondering that we are alive in the face ofsuch dreadful facts, we may note further that gas is rather variable inits qualities as an illuminant. We have mentioned the suspicious gasmeter, whose vagaries doubtless have caused more virtuous indignationwith less impression upon its object than anything ever devised. Anopen flame is always a menace; and then there is the burnt match. Mosthousekeepers, I am sure, would testify to their belief that matcheswere not made in heaven. Is there anything that so persistently defiesthe effort for tidiness as the charred remains of a match, invariablyignited elsewhere than on the sandpaper conspicuously provided, andmore likely to be tossed upon the floor or laid upon the mahogany tablethan to find its way into the receptacles that yearn for it?

For cooking, however, gas must still be a main dependence, and for thisreason, as well as to provide for remote emergencies, the house shouldbe piped for gas. At least it should be brought into the house, evenif the piping is not continued farther than the kitchen. 

ELECTRIC LIGHT

In seeking to secure sufficient light we often go to the extreme ofproviding a glare that is trying to the eyes and would test the beautyof the loveliest complexion that ever charmed in the revealing light ofday. We go further, mayhap, and concentrate the glare upon the centerof the room, with a shade of bright green which gives an unearthly butnot a heavenly cast to all the unfortunate humans who come under itsbelying influence. 

Objection is sometimes made to electric light that it is too powerful, and that it is difficult to modify and control. This impression is dueto the tendency of which we have spoken--the working out of the thoughtthat proper lighting is a question of quantity. For some persons theideal arrangement would seem to be a searchlight at each corner of theroom, with a few arc lights suspended from a mirrored ceiling. 

Electric light, to furnish the most agreeable effects, must be softenedand properly diffused. If the light units that so perfectly illumine aroom during the day were concentrated they would make a blinding glare, but diffused they are properly tempered to the eye. The common thoughtseems to be to put all the lights of the living room in the center, andto make them so powerful that they will penetrate every corner of theroom and make it "light as day. " In consequence the center isoverlighted, and instead of a similitude of daylight we have unreality. 

PLEASING ARRANGEMENT

For the dining-room and library table some form of drop light isessential. There are arrangements that will transform the banquet orstudent lamp into an electric drop light, or the special outfits forthis use may be had in some very artistic designs. For generallighting, wall sconces, lanterns, or brackets are preferable. Some ofthese are very beautiful, though there is a tendency tooverelaboration. Design, of course, should be in keeping with thegeneral decoration and outfitting of the room. Instead of foursixteen-candle-power lights in a center chandelier, eight ofeight-candle power will "spread" the illumination better and add littleto the expense, except for fixtures. In beamed ceilings which are nottoo high, the effect of lights placed upon the beams is pleasing, though the effect upon the monthly bill may not have the same aspect. Electric lamps at the sides should be at a fair height and throw theirlight downward, instead of wasting it upon the ceiling. 

The pretty lanterns of antique design are expensive, the simplest sortcosting $4 or $5 apiece. There are numerous artistic brackets, however, that may be had for smaller amounts. Bulbs are made in allsorts of shapes to fit recesses or for special purposes, and thedesigns in shades and candelabra are legion. 

ADAPTABILITY

Electricity's strong card is its adaptability. It can go wherever awire may be carried, and into many places where gas or oil lights wouldnot be safe or practical. The only thing lacking is to make itwireless, and perhaps invention sooner or later will be equal to thatdemand. Early installations were rather carelessly made, but municipaland underwriters' rules are now so strict that practically all dangerof fire has been eliminated. The householder in the country shouldmake sure that the underwriters' prescriptions are fully observed, ashis insurance may be affected. In the city, official inspectionusually guarantees correct wiring. 

Probably only in the hall, dining room, and living room will we begreatly concerned with the decorative phase of lighting. Elsewhere thequestion is largely one of practical use, though considerations oftaste are not to be neglected. Careful study should be given to theadaptation of lighting to the future uses of the rooms. This willperhaps avoid the use later of unsightly extension cord, though thisavoidance can scarcely be made complete. 

PROTECTION

A very useful light may be provided for the veranda, just outside thedoor, illuminating the front steps and path to the sidewalk. Thislight may be turned off and on by a switch key inside the door. It isparticularly comforting when some stranger rings the doorbell late atnight and one does not feel overpleased to be called upon to open thedoor to an invisible person. Other switch arrangements make itpossible to turn on the upper hall lights from below, or the lower halllights from above, and the lights in each room from the hall. Whenthere are unseemly noises downstairs in the wee sma' hours it is muchmore agreeable to gaze over the balustrade into a bright hall than togo prowling about in the darkness for the bulb or gas jet, with thechance of grasping a burglar instead. Some burglars are very sensitiveabout familiarities on the part of strangers, and it is always betterto permit them to depart in a good humor. The basement lighting, too, should be regulated from above, and the dark corners should be welllooked after. At best, the basement is a breeder of trouble. If thelight is in the center, and must be turned off at the bulb, the returnto the stairway from the nocturnal visit to the furnace is likely to beproductive of bruised shins and objurgative English; if the lightoperates from above, one either forgets to turn it off and leaves it toburn all night, or becomes uncertain about it just as he is beginningto doze off, necessitating a scramble downstairs to make sure. Perhapsit would be well to have a choice of systems. 

Some houses have been so wired that one can illuminate every room fromthe hall or from the master's bedroom. This necessitates complicatedwiring and will not be found necessary by most of us. Neither will wedesire to spend our hardly won cash in wiring our four-poster bed forreading lights, or to put lights under the dining table for use insearching for the lost articles that always by some instinct seek thedarkest spots in the room. If there be a barn or shed on the lot, anextension carried there will be found convenient and comparativelyinexpensive. In the kitchen and pantries the lights should beconsidered in detail so that all the various operations may be served. Shadowed sinks and ranges and dark pantries are not necessary wherethere is electric light. 

REGULATED LIGHT

In halls, closets, and bathroom lower-power lamps, or the "hylo, " whichmay be alternated from one- to sixteen-candle power, will prove aneconomy. The "hylo" is also useful in bedrooms where children are putto sleep, affording sufficient light to daunt the hobgoblins withoutdiscouraging the approach of the sandman. Some persons cannot sleepwithout a light; for them, and for the sick room, the low-power lightis eminently preferable to the best of oil lamps. 

There are numerous conveniences to be operated by electricity, such aschafing dishes ($13. 50), flat irons ($3. 75 up), curling-iron heaters($2. 25 up), electric combs for drying hair ($4), heating pads, in lieuof hot-water bags ($5), and many articles for the kitchen. These areoperated from flush receptacles in baseboards or under rugs, or fromthe ordinary light sockets. 

THE TWO SURE WAYS OF HEATING

There is only one efficient and healthful method of heating a house, and that is with a hot-air furnace. I have that on the authority of aman who sells hot-air furnaces, and he ought to know. 

Substitute "steam or hot water" for "hot-air furnace, " and we have theassurance of the man across the way who sells boilers and radiators. 

The beauty of it is that each proves his case to one's entiresatisfaction--not only that his own system is a marvel of perfection, but that the other systems are dangerous to health and breeders ofunhappiness and really ought (though he wouldn't like to say so) to beprohibited by law. 

So we shall have to decide the question for ourselves. If we err, wecan still abuse the dealer, or the architect, or the contractor, forletting us make a mistake. 

THE HOT-AIR FURNACE

The hot-air furnace costs least to install. (We leave stoves out ofconsideration. ) It is also supposed to be easiest to manage. That, ina sense, is true. A good furnace will act pretty well even underindifferent direction; a bad one cannot be made much worse by thegreatest of stupidity. 

However, the average person can run the average furnace with a fairdegree of satisfaction to the household, if not to himself. For ahouse of six to eight rooms the furnace may be considered an efficientmeans of heating. It requires more fuel than some other apparatus, butthere are compensations. 

Since ventilation and heating are inevitably associated, the argumentthat the furnace provides for ventilation is a strong one. If the airis taken from outdoors, passed over the radiating surface into therooms, and then sent on its way, something like perfect ventilation isassured. If the air is simply taken from the basement--a poor place togo for air--heated, passed through the rooms, returned, and heated overagain, we may well pray to be delivered from such "ventilation. " Thesuccess of the furnace depends not upon ability to keep up a rousingfire but upon a proper regulation of air currents. Many a first-classfurnace, properly installed, fails to work satisfactorily because theprinciple of heating is not understood. Even with the best ofknowledge, the air is hard to regulate, and the very principle thatgives the furnace its standing as a ventilator must prevent it frombeing a perfect heater. 

Unless some artificial moisture is provided, not only will the air betoo dry for comfort and health, but an excessive degree of heat must beattained in order to warm the rooms, thus increasing the consumption ofcoal. A water pan is usually provided in the furnace, but too often itis neglected. 

DIRECTION OF HEAT

If any mistake in selection of size is to be made, it should be infavor of excess. Most authorities urge the choice of at least a sizeabove that indicated by the heating area. A chimney with suitabledraught is imperative. The furnace should be placed in a centrallocation and should be set sufficiently low to permit the essentialrise of the heat ducts. If the basement is low the furnace should bedepressed. While the heat conveyors should not ascend directly fromthe furnace, they should not be carried any farther than necessary in ahorizontal position. The velocity of heat is diminished in carrying ithorizontally, increased vertically. Crooks and turns add to thefriction and decrease heating power. Therefore the pipes should be asshort and direct as possible. It is not necessary to carry theregister to a window on the farther side of the room, say someauthorities, as the warm air rises to the ceiling anyway, and thegreater length of carry involves a loss in warmth. 

Pipes for the first floor should he large. Those for the upper rooms, having a longer vertical range, may be smaller. All the pipes shouldbe double, with an inch air space between, as a protection againstfire. Asbestos paper on a single pipe is not regarded as a sufficientprecaution, as it is easily torn and quickly wears out. 

REGISTERS

There are arguments in favor of side-wall registers. They save floorspace and obviate some dust. On the other hand, they are not quite soeffective in heating as the other sort, since the pipes for floorregisters may be of larger diameter and as a rule require fewer bends. Each register should have a separate pipe from the furnace. Wheredirect heat is not desired, a register opening in the ceiling of adownstairs room will sometimes carry enough heat to the upper chamberto make it comfortable for sleeping purposes. 

Since furnace efficiency is largely dependent upon air control, astrong wind sometimes makes it difficult to heat portions of the house. To meet this emergency there is a combination hot-air and hot-waterheater which supplies radiators on the upper floors, or elsewhere ifdesired. The additional cost is practically all in the installation, as the same fire furnishes both forms of heat. 

For an eight-room house or smaller, a first-class steel-plate furnace, securely sealed against the escape of gas and smoke, costs free onboard about $150. Each two rooms additional raises the price about$25. Other furnaces may be had as low as $50. Cost of tin work, bricksetting, etc. , depends upon locality. 

HOT WATER AND STEAM HEAT

Hot water and steam heat cost more for installation, but have manyadvantages over the furnace. Their chief drawbacks are the spaceusurped by radiators, lack of ventilation, and the possibility of anoccasional breakdown. The ingenuity of the makers, however, is partlyovercoming these difficulties, mainly by the device called the indirectsystem. 

We need not fret ourselves here with a technical elucidation of eitherform of heating. We may, however, consider some of the claims made forhot water, which is apparently coming to be considered the preferablearrangement for dwelling houses. There is not a great deal ofdifference between the essential features of steam and hot-watersystems. 

It is declared that water will absorb more heat than any othersubstance, hence will take from the boiler practically all the heatproduced in the combustion of fuel. As the temperature of the water isautomatically controlled, the atmosphere of the rooms may be kept atthe desired degree, the presence of radiators in each room, all of thesame temperature, giving an even heat over the entire house. 

There can be no sudden drop in temperature, as the water in the pipescontinues to distribute warmth even after the fire has been checked orhas been allowed to go out. The fuel required for an ordinary stove, it is asserted, will warm an entire house with hot water. An engineeris not required. Inexperienced persons have no difficulty in operatingthe ordinary boiler, and there is no danger whatever, because, themakers adduce, for steam heat the maximum pressure is about fivepounds, while with hot water there is practically no pressure at all. Very little water is used, and a connection with the street watersystem is not imperative, though convenient. 

INDIRECT HEATING

Indirect heating is provided by passing air over radiators attached tothe ceiling of the basement, thence to the upper rooms. In the"direct-indirect" system the radiators are placed in the partitionwalls of the rooms they are to heat, the cold air being brought througha duct and, being heated, passing into the rooms. These two systemsare economical of space and afford provision for excellent ventilation. They are considerably more expensive, however, than the direct system, which involves exposed radiators. 

Radiators are now constructed in many different forms, to fit underwindows, in corners, in fireplaces, under cabinets, and so on. Mucheffort has been directed also toward relieving their painful ugliness, and if of a neat design appropriately colored they need not be aserious blot upon the decorative scheme of a room. 

Radiators, in the direct system, should be placed far enough from thewalls to permit free circulation over the heating surfaces, and shouldnot be directly covered at the top. Ordinarily there are good reasonsfor putting them near the more exposed places, such as windows andouter doors. As both steam and hot water furnish a dry heat, provisionshould be made in every room for evaporation of water. 

SUMMARY

With no prejudice against good furnaces, it may be said that hot waterapparently affords the greatest possibilities for comfort andregularity of heating, and that there are usually no reasons why itcannot be utilized in country houses. A hot-water installation islikely to cost twice as much as a furnace, but if we are to live in thehouse it is better to make our estimates cover ten or twenty yearsrather than to bear too strongly on first costs. 

The following table, while it must not be taken as fully conclusive, gives at least a basis of consideration:

 HOT AIR. STEAM. HOT WATER. First cost. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Small. Higher. Highest. Comparative coal consumption . .. .. .. .. .. . 18 1/2 tons. 13 1/2 tons. 10 tons. Average durability. .. .. .. .. . 12 years. 35 years. *Indestructible Heat distribution. .. .. .. .. .. Uneven. Regular. Even. Temperature. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Variable. Fair. Regular. Ventilation. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Good, if Good, with Good, with properly indirect indirect managed. System. System. Quality of heated air. .. .. .. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Dust and dirt. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Much. Little. None. Danger of fire. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Moderate. None. None. Danger of explosion. .. .. .. .. Slight. None. None. Noise. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. None. Occasional. Almost none. Management. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . *Delightful. *Pleasure. *Joy. Relative cost of apparatus. . 9 13 15 Ditto, plus repairs and fuel for five years. .. .. 29 1/2 29 2/3 27 Ditto, plus repairs and fuel for five years. .. .. 81 63 52 1/2

 * Makers' statement. 

These comparisons are probably, on the whole, somewhat unfair to thehigh-grade furnace. 

CHAPTER IV

FURNITURE

Much of good sense and more that is nonsensical has been written aboutfurniture. Observation tends to justify belief that in general effectthe nonsense has proved more potent than its antithesis. 

THE QUEST OF THE BEAUTIFUL

Originality has been preached, and we have seen the result inabnormalities that conform to no conception of artistic or practicalquality ever recognized. Antique models have been glorified, with asequence of puny, spiritless imitations. Simplicity has been extolled, and we find the word interpreted in clumsiness and crudity. Delicacyof outline has been urged, and we triumph in the furtheraccomplishments of flimsiness and hopeless triviality. 

And yet through all that has been preached, through all that has beenexecuted, there runs a vein of truth. Each age should express itself, not merely the thought of centuries past; still, it can expect to dolittle more than take from antecedent cycles those features that willbest serve the present, adding an original touch here and there. Sofar, then, as we find in the furniture of the Georgian period, or ofLouis Quinze, or even of the ancient Greeks, such suggestions as willhelp us to live this twentieth-century life more comfortably andagreeably, we may with good conscience borrow or imitate. 

ANCIENT DESIGNS

Some "very eminent authorities" assure us that many of the objects ofour admiration in museums and in private collections are remnants ofthe furnishings of the common households of the olden times. If thebreadth of knowledge of the "eminent authorities" is indicated by thisassertion, they must have touched only the high places in history, sofar as it records social conditions. The truth is that the householdappurtenances which have survived to our time are mostly those of thefew and not of the many, of the palace and mansion and not of the cot. These articles were costly then and they would be costly now, and veryoften quite as useless as costly. They were not found in the cottageof the older days, and they do not belong in the cottages of thepresent. 

Nevertheless, many of these old designs exemplify the elementaryessentials of furniture--good materials, gracefulness, and thoroughworkmanship. These are qualities that are to be sought for the cottageas well as for the mansion; and while they may add to the purchase costof the separate articles, it is possible to secure them at no greatincrease for the whole over the cheaper goods, provided we guardagainst the common error in housefurnishing--overpurchasing. 

[Illustration: Good examples of Chippendale and old walnut. ]

THE ARTS AND CRAFTS

What is known in America as the arts and crafts movement has, in itssincere developments, sought to adapt the better qualities of the olddesigns of furniture to the demands of modern conditions, artistic andpractical. Not always, however, has it been possible to distinguishbetween the honest effort to enforce a better standard and the variousforms of charlatanry under which clumsy and unsightly creations havebeen and are being worked off upon an ingenuous public at pricesproportioned to their degrees of ugliness. In colonial times many anhumble carpenter vainly scratched his noggin as he puzzled over thehopeless problem of duplicating with rude tools and scant skill thehandiwork that graced the lordly mansions of merrie England; to-daysome wight who can scarcely distinguish a jackplane from a saw-buckessays to "express himself" (at our expense) in furniture, repeatingall the gaucheries that the colonial carpenter could not avoid making. 

MISSION FURNITURE

Others have set themselves to reproducing the so-called missionfurniture which the good priests of early California would haverejoiced to exchange for the convenient modern furniture at which thefaddist sniffs. But most of us who stop to think, realize that thereis no magic virtue in antiquity of itself. The average man, at least, cannot delude himself into the belief that there is comfort to be foundin a great deal of the harsh-angled stuff paraded as artistic. 

Let us not be understood, however, as hinting that artistic qualitiesmust be disregarded. Though furniture should not be chosen for itsbeauty or associations alone, it must not be considered at all ifbeauty is absent. 

COMFORT, AESTHETIC AND PHYSICAL

The first consideration of the home is comfort. Let no one disputethat fact. But there is such a thing as being aesthetically as well asphysically comfortable. Conceptions of physical comfort differ withindividuals, but are usually well defined; some of us actually have noconception whatever of aesthetic comfort. That is no reason why weshould not seek it. Probably we had a very faint idea of what goodmusic or good painting was like until we came to an acquaintance withthe masters; but we are surely not sorry to have progressed inexperience and feeling. And so it is that though we may not feelspecially urged to insist upon tasteful surroundings, the higherinstincts within us that persuade us to make the most of ourselvesdemand that we shall not be content with mere physical comfort. Therefore we may need to look a bit beyond our definite inwardaspirations, and we should not disdain to follow others so far as theyadhere to certain well-authenticated canons of good taste. 

OLDER MODELS IN FURNITURE

Study of the older models of furniture is bound to prove suggestive, and it is better to secure from the library or bookseller a book bysome authority than to depend upon dealers' catalogues, which are notalways edifying. English models affecting present-day outfitting dateback as far as the Elizabethan period, approximately 1558-1603. Following there came the Early Jacobean, the Early Queen Anne, and theGeorgian. The last includes the work of Chippendale, Heppelwhite, Sheraton, and the Adams, all of whom executed some beautiful designs. The so-called colonial furniture belongs also to the Georgian period, as does the "Debased Empire, " corresponding to or following the Empirestyles in France. In the latter country the periods of vogue are knownas Francis Premier, Henri Deux, Henri Quatre, Louis Treize, LouisQuatorze, Louis Quinze, and Louis Seize. Under the designation of the"Quaint style" W. Davis Benn groups the "Liberty, " Morris, and arts andcrafts designs. Mr. Benn's "Styles in Furniture" will be found helpfulin both text and illustration to those who would learn to distinguishbetween the products of the various periods. 

[Illustration: A Chippendale secretary. ]

MAHOGANY AND OAK

Mahogany and oak are the best materials for furniture. The former iscleverly imitated in a mahoganized birch, which presents a pleasingappearance and sometimes deceives those who are not familiar with thebeautiful rich tones of the genuine article. Mahogany adapts itself toalmost any sensible style of interior decoration, is likely to be ofcareful manufacture, and is almost invariably cherished for its beauty. Like other highly finished woods it takes on a bluish tint in dampweather, and if not well protected, will demand attention morefrequently than other materials. But if its purchase can be affordedthe care given it will scarcely be begrudged. The eggshell (dull)finish requires less attention than the higher polish. 

Next in degree to mahogany, oak in the golden, weathered, or fumedeffect is handsome and durable, while it is somewhat less expensive. The moment one drops below genuine mahogany, however, a wary eye mustbe kept upon construction. There are shifts innumerable to make cheapfurniture that has an alluring appearance, and the variety of design inthe moderate-priced materials will lead to confusion for those who donot exert a Spartan discrimination. 

SUBSTANTIALITY

To insure satisfaction there must first of all be substantiality--aquality which affects both comfort and appearance. A chair may bebeautiful, it may be comfortable, at the time of purchase, but if it benot substantial its glories will soon depart. A superficial viewcannot be conclusive. The carefully made article built upon slenderlines is often quite as strong as a more rugged creation hastily puttogether. The chair that is properly constructed may be almost assolid as if it were of one piece, and still not require a block andtackle to move it. The strongest article is made entirely of wood, andwe find some of the old models so sturdily built that no rounds wererequired between the legs. In chiffoniers, dressers, or side-boards ahandsome exterior should not blind us to cheaply constructed drawers. The latter should be of strong material, properly fitted, and wellsealed. There need be no sagging, jamming, or accumulation of dust indrawers that are well constructed. 

SUPERFLUITY

California, with its pretty little bungalows, not only has pointed outto us the possibility of living satisfactorily in a small number ofrooms, but has shown us something in the way of simple furnishings. Not until we see what may be "done without" do we realize how much thatis superfluous crowds our floors. 

A pretty good rule is to test everything first by its usefulness; if itis not useful, we may dispense with its purchase. Even at that, it maybe necessary to demand that the article shall be not only useful butabsolutely indispensable, for between the beguiling advertisement andthe crafty salesman, almost anything that is manufactured may be provednecessary. At the best we shall probably purchase a-plenty, and thequestion of when a house reaches the point of overfurnishing is adifficult one to settle. Let one of us, for instance, venture atmidnight into a dark room--be the apartment ever so large--with nothingbut a rocker in it, and the impression may be gained that the place hasbeen turned into a furniture warehouse. And some persons--none of us, to be sure!--are never happy while any of the floor or wall space isunoccupied. So the world goes. But if nine out of ten persons boughtonly what they could not do without, what they did purchase could be ofa great deal better quality. 

No bit of furniture should be purchased for which there is not asuitable place in the house. A piece may be very attractive in thesalesroom, and its practical qualities may appear irresistible, whileon our own floors it may be perfectly incongruous and perhaps, onaccount of its enforced location, almost useless. 

If for no other reason, we should go slow with our purchases because wecannot know the real needs of our home until we have lived in it. Experience will make some articles superfluous and substitute what wehad not thought to want. There should be a regular saving fund orappropriation for keeping up the house fittings, and usually it isfound that this fund grows more steadily if we have some definitepurchases in view. Leave some things to be "saved up for"; there willbe less likelihood then of your being included in that large class towhich the newspaper "small ads" appeal--"those who wish to trade whatthey don't want for what they do want. "

HALL FURNITURE

In a hall of the simpler sort the only requirements are a high-backedchair or settee, a table for _cartes de visite_, an umbrellareceptacle, and a mirror wall hanger with hooks for the use of guests. The time-honored halltree is no more, and long may it rest in peace. If there had been no other reasons for its passing, its abuse in theaverage household made it an eyesore. Intended only for theconvenience of the transient guest, its hooks were usually preëmpted bythe entire outer wardrobe of the family. A good plan is to have a coatcloset built in, under the stairway or elsewhere near the place ofegress, leaving the few inconspicuous hooks in the hall to afford ampleprovision for visitors. An appropriation of $50 to $100 will fit up asmall hall very satisfactorily. A pretty hanging lantern of hammeredcopper, with open bottom and globe of opalescent glass, will add morethan its cost of $12. 50 to the good impression the hall is to make uponthose it receives. 

THE FAMILY CHAIRS

Some good folk would banish the rocker unceremoniously from the livingroom, and we might not miss it so much as we think. It is theadaptability of the rocker to comforting positions, rather than a loveof rocking, that endears the chair to the majority, and when the samequalities are found in the reclining or easy chair we can well sparethe projections that menace skirts and polished furniture, not to speakof the space they take up. 

As a general thing it is the man of the house whose comfort is mostsedulously looked after. For him the easy chair, the slippers, thereading lamp, the smoking outfit, the house jacket, the evening paper. This fact is mentioned in no carping spirit. Far be it from one of theless worthy sex to quarrel with the fate that has been ordained for usby our helpmeets; the latter should not be deprived of a whit of thejoy that comes from viewing the lord of the household agreeablysituated, and in that blissful state which breeds a kindly spirittoward all human kind, including milliners and ladies' tailors. 

But too frequently the mistress of the household is supposed to pick upher comfort at odd times, or more likely there isn't any supposition atall. For her, for the master, and for the other members of the family, there must be a personal interest in the living room, and this is bestrepresented by the most comfortable chair to be had. As persons arebuilt of different heights and breadths, so the chairs should be. While the slender chap can snuggle down in the most capacious easychair, the stout lady may be embarrassed when she finds the one singleseat at hand proffering only a scanty breadth. One may well providefor these contingencies, for of course it is not always possible toselect our acquaintances in accordance with the capacity of ourfurniture. Heights, too, should be varied somewhat, though it must beconfessed that the joy of life (for others) is much increased by thesight of a six-foot (tall) gentleman of dignity gradually unfoldinghimself from the chair that was purchased for the particular use ofGwendolyn Ermyntrude, aged six. 

THE TABLE

If the living room, among its other uses, takes the place of thelibrary, the selection of a suitable library table will be a good testof the homemaker's discrimination. The quality of this table should beat least equal to the best we have to show. Whether it shall besquared, or oblong with oval ends, depends upon tastes; by all means itshould be get-at-able. That's what a library table is for. Gooddesigns in "arts and crafts" may be had as low as $16. 50 in a smallsize; 72-inch, about $50. Golden oak costs less, mahogany considerablymore. 

THE DAVENPORT

The davenport in mahogany or oak, in a plain or striped velourtapestry, felt filled, with good springs, built on straight lines withclaw feet, broad arms, and heavy back, is a good article and will notleave much change out of a $50 bill. That represents a fair price fora fair quality, and it would be better to do without the davenport thanto go in for something too cheap. The sort that have detached cushionsin soft leather are very nice and practically dustless. The same istrue of easy chairs so provided. A handsome weathered-oak davenportwith cushions of this kind will be found marked somewhere about $65, while half that price pays for an easy chair of the same style. Thecushions are filled with felt. Springs and fillings in davenports, easy chairs, and couches should be most thoroughly investigated. Ifthere are carvings they must be subjected to the severest tests ofappropriateness, and in no event should they be where they will come infrequent contact with other articles or with persons. 

BOOKCASES

Bookcases in weathered oak, with the top sections of the doors inleaded glass, seem worth the prices at $28 for 30-inch, $43. 50 for4-foot, and $47. 50 for 5-foot; yet a simple 30-inch golden oak case"made in Grand Rapids, " and of which no one need be ashamed, costs but$14. Sectional cases are very convenient, and are now being designedin artistic styles, but are not yet altogether approvable for theparlor or living room. For the library simply, they are to berecommended. Bookcases and other heavy pieces should either setsolidly upon the floor or have sufficient open space beneath them topermit cleaning. Unless their contents are (mistakenly) hidden bycurtains, the bookcases should not be placed in too strong sunlight, assome bindings fade rapidly. Nor should they be near the heatradiators, or against a wall that may possess moisture. The piano, too, must be protected against too great heat or moisture, and in astone or brick house should be placed against a partition rather thanthe outside wall. 

SUNDRIES

Useful, but not life-or-death essentials, are a tabouret at, say, $3. 25, a footrest for a little less, and a magazine rack for $5 or $10. The problem of keeping periodicals in easy reach without too much of a"litter'ry" effect has not yet been solved. The open rack is the bestcompromise between sightliness and utility, because it is more apt tobe used than the more ambitious arrangements with doors. In thegeneral treatment of the living room the piano and its case are not tobe overlooked, and the presence of a piano also suggests the musiccabinet, with its problem similar to that of the magazine rack. Asmusic is not kept so well "stirred up, " however, the cabinet with atight door is "indicated. "

WILLOW FURNITURE

Willow furniture is used extensively in some country homes. It is madeof the French willow, and is not so cheap but is stronger than rattan. Best rockers in this material sell at about $20. They are hardly to beconsidered in the permanent furnishings of the home, though there is nodenying their cleanliness, coolness, and comfort, especially in summer. 

THE DINING TABLE

For the dining room the sensible preference seems to be for a roundtable with straight lines of under construction. The pillar base givesleast interference with personal comfort, but even at that seems to beunescapable. What has been said elsewhere about the choice of woodsapplies here also. The high cost of a large-size mahogany table, however, will probably enable us to see some of the special beauties ofgolden oak. A six-foot round table in the latter wood is priced atabout $20. Medium height chairs, with cane seats, $2. 75; leather, $3. 25. Sideboards are now usually built in; otherwise the buffettable, free from excessive ornamentation, is given preference. 

[Illustration: The dining room. ]

DISCRIMINATION IN CHOICE

A great deal of the factory-made furniture of the day is the veriesttrash. The best feature of it is that it cannot last long and will notsurvive to disgrace us in the eyes of a later and perhaps morediscriminating generation. For those who reside in flats, and aredeprived of the inducement to plan for permanence, small blame canattach for hesitancy in making investments in the better sort offurniture that their tastes would lead them to choose. This is thepenalty they pay for evading the responsibilities of genuine home lifein a house. 

But good furniture is being built in these days. It is not confined tohand work, or to the products of long-haired folk who set up a religionof cabinet-making. In every city there are several grades of furnituredealers. At the one extreme there is the house that handles nothingbut trash; at the other the house that handles no trash at all. Thelatter is the obvious choice; and if we pay a bit more forsafety--well, do we not pay for our insurance against fire, andburglars, and other things?

If our house has been planned on a scale commensurate with our means, we shall find it no extravagance to complete the larger work ofoutfitting with articles that will bring pleasure and not vexation, that will need no apologies. Surely no employment could be moreinteresting than the choice of these belongings which shall in manyways influence ourselves and those about us. 

There is such a range of styles and costs that if we approach theproblem intelligently we may "express ourselves" quite as accurately asthough we were amateur craftsmen. Indeed, we must express ourselves, whether we determine to do so or not; for if we simply follow ourcruder instincts, as the child selects its toys, do we not reveal theabsence of any real artistic self whatever?

CHAPTER V

HOUSEHOLD LINEN

Most of us "women folk" have some one dear pet hobby which we love tohumor and to cater to, and which variously expresses itself in china, bric-a-brac, books, collections of spoons or forks, and other things ofbeauty and joys forever. But whatever our individual indulgences may be, one taste we share in common--the love of neat napery. Her heartstringsmust indeed be toughly seasoned who feels no thrill of pride as she looksupon her piles of shining, satiny table linen, and takes account of hersheet, pillowcase and towel treasure. They are her stocks and bonds, giving forth daily their bounteous, beauteous yield of daintiness andcomfort, and paying for themselves many times over by the atmosphere ofnicety and refinement which they create. For it is these touches, unobtrusive by their very delicacy, which introduce that intangible butvery essential quality known as _tone_ into the home harmony. 

Though this is true of all household linen, it is, especially so of tablelinen, which seems to weave into its delicate patterns and traceries allthe light and sunshine of the room, and to give them back to us in thewarming, quickening good cheer which radiates from a table daintilydressed. Its influence refines, as all that is chaste and pure mustrefine, and helps to make of mealtime something more than merelymastication. Human nature's daily food seems to lose something of itsgrossness in its snowy setting, and to gain a spiritual savor which findsan outlet in "feasts of reason and flows of soul. " When we haveimmaculate table linen we dine; otherwise we simply eat, and there arewhole decades of civilization between the two. 

LINEN, PAST AND PRESENT

Linen is a fabric with a past: it clothed the high priests of Israel fortheir sacred offices, and comes as a voice from the tombs of Egypt, whereit enwraps the mummies of the Pharaohs, telling of a skill in weaving somarvelous that even our improved machinery of to-day can produce nothingto approach it. And then it comes on down through the centuries to thosenearer and dearer days of our grandmothers, when it was spun and woven bygentle fingers; while the halo of romance hovers over it even now as theGerman Hausfrau fills the dowry chest of her daughter in anticipation ofthe time when she, in turn, shall become a housewife. Small wonder thatwe love it, and guard jealously against a stain on its unblemishedescutcheon. 

BLEACHED AND "HALF-BLEACHED"

Belfast, Ireland, is the home of linen and damask. There aremanufactories in both Scotland and France, but it is in Belfast that thefabric attains to the highest perfection, and "Irish linen" has come tobe synonymous with excellence of design and weaving and luster--a mostdesirable trilogy. The prospective purchaser of table linen should go toher task fortified with some information on the subject, that she may notfind herself totally at the mercy of the salesman, who often knows littleabout his line of goods beyond their prices. First of all she willprobably he asked whether she prefers bleached or unbleached damask. Thelatter--called "half-bleach" in trade vernacular--is made in Scotland andcomes in cheap and medium grades alone. Though it lacks the choicenessof design and the beauty and fineness of the Belfast bleached linens, itis good for everyday wear and quickly whitens when laid in the sun ongrass or snow; while the fact that its cost is somewhat less than that ofthe corresponding quality in the bleached damask, and that it wearsbetter, recommends it to many. Occasionally the chemicals used in thebleaching process are made overstrong to hasten whitening, with theresult that the fibers rot after a while and little cut-like cracksappear in the fabric. This is not usual, but of course the unbleacheddamask precludes all possibility of such an occurrence. One firm inBelfast still conscientiously employs the old grass-and-sun system ofbleaching, and their damask is plainly marked "Old Bleach. " Thehalf-bleach is sold both by the yard and in patterns. 

DAMASK

Damask, by the way, takes its name from the city of Damascus where thefabric was first made, and is simply "linen so woven that a pattern isproduced by the different directions of the thread, " plain damask beingthe same fabric, but unfigured. The expression "double damask" needoccasion no alarm; it does not imply double cost, a double cloth, ordouble anything except a double, or duplicate, design, produced by theintroduction of an extra thread so woven in that the figure appearsexactly the same on both sides of the cloth, making it reversible. 

QUALITY

The next thing will be to decide between buying by the yard and buying apattern cloth in which the border continues without a break all the wayaround, adding about ten per cent to the price. The designs in bothcloths are the same in corresponding qualities. We are knights andladies of the round table these days, and cloths woven specially for usethereon, with an all-round center design, come only in patterns. Clothsof this description are used also on square tables, as the wreath effectis very decorative. As to the quality of damask, it depends not so muchupon weight--for the finest cloths are by no means the heaviest--as uponthe size of the threads and the closeness and firmness with which theyare woven. Avoid the loosely woven fabric; it will neither wear nor lookso well as the one in which the threads are more compact. In the betterdamasks the threads are smoother and finer in finish. 

DESIGN

Styles in table linens change from time to time and render it difficultto say what may or may not be used with propriety, except that thegeneral principle of coarse, heavy-looking designs being in poor tastealways holds good. One pattern alone has proven itself, and stood thetest of time so satisfactorily that it is as high as ever in the goodhousekeeper's favor, with no prospect of falling from grace--our oldfriend the dainty, modest snowdrop, a quiet, unobtrusive little figure ina garden array of roses, English violets, lilacs, tulips, irises, andpoppies--for these are flowery times in linens. Occasionally we meetwith a scroll or fern design, though the latter is gradually falling intodisuse as being too stiff to twine and weave into graceful lines. Sotrue to nature and so exquisitely woven are these posy patterns that theyform in themselves a most charming table decoration. In order to secureperfect reproduction a manufacturer in Belfast has established andmaintains a greenhouse where his designers draw direct from the naturalflower. This care is but the outgrowth of the more refined living whichdemands that beauty shall walk hand-in-hand with utility. 

PRICE AND SIZE

Before our housekeeper starts a-shopping she must lock up her zeal foreconomy lest it lead her away from the straight and narrow way of goodtaste into that broader path which leads to the bargain counter. She mayas well make up her mind at once that desirable table linen is not cheap, the sorts offered at a very low price being neither economical nordesirable, and that a cheap cloth which cheapens all of its surroundingsis dearly bought at any price. Occasionally the experienced shopper canpick up at a sale of odd-length or soiled damasks something which isreally a good offering, particularly during the annual linen sale whichfalls in January. But as a rule beware of bargains! The fabric isliable to be a "second" with some imperfection, or to contain a thread ofcotton which gives it a rough look when laundered, and there is generallya shortage in width--which suggests the advisability of measuring thetable top before buying, for cloths come in different widths, and onewhich is too narrow looks out-grown and awkward and--stingy! The averagetable is about 4 feet across, and requires a cloth 2 yards square, thoughin buying by the yard it is safe to allow an extra quarter forstraightening the edges and hemming. The cloth should hang at least afoot below the edge of the table, with an increase of half a yard inlength for each additional table leaf. A cloth 2 yards square will seatfour people; 2 by 2 1/2, six; 2 by 3, eight; 2 by 3 1/2, ten; and 2 by 4, twelve. A wider table calls for a half or a quarter of a yard more inthe width of the cloth, at some little additional cost, as fewer clothsin extra widths are made or called for. Usually a good pattern runsthrough three qualities of table linen, with napkins in two sizes tomatch--22-inch for breakfast and luncheon use, and 24-inch for dinner. These are the standard sizes most generally used, though napkins are tobe had both larger and smaller. A napkin should be soft and pliable, andlarge enough to cover the knees well. Prices on all-linen bleached satindamask pattern cloths, with accompanying napkins, are about as appear inthe list on the opposite page:

 CLOTHS. 

 GOOD QUALITY. BETTER. EXTRA GOOD. 

 2 x 2 yards, each $2. 00-$2. 75 $3. 50 $4. 50-$5. 25 2 x 2 1/2 " " 2. 50- 3. 50 4. 50 5. 75- 6. 75 2 x 3 " " 3. 00- 4. 25 5. 25 6. 75- 8. 00 2 x 3 1/2 " " 3. 50- 4. 85 6. 25 8. 00- 9. 25 2 x 4 " " 4. 00- 5. 50 7. 00 9. 00-10. 75 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 " " 2. 90- 3. 75 4. 50 6. 00- 7. 75 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 " " 4. 25- 4. 50 5. 25 7. 50- 8. 75 2 1/2 x 3 " " 5. 00- 5. 50 6. 25 9. 00-10. 50 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 " " 6. 25- 6. 50 7. 50 10. 50-12. 25 2 1/2 x 4 " " 7. 00- . .. . 8. 50 12. 00-14. 00 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 " " . .. .. .. .. . . .. . 13. 50-14. 75 2 1/2 x 5 " " . .. .. .. .. . . .. . 15. 00-17. 50 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 " " . .. .. .. .. . . .. . 11. 00-13. 00 3 x 3 " " . .. .. .. .. . . .. . 15. 00-16. 00

 86 x 90 inches, " 3. 50 86 x 108 " " 4. 25 86 x 136 " " 5. 00 86 x 144 " " 5. 75

 NAPKINS. 

 22 x 22 inches, dozen $2. 50-$3. 00 $3. 75 $5. 00-$5. 50 23 x 23 " " 3. 00 . .. . 5. 25 7. 00- 7. 50 24 x 24 " " 3. 00- 3. 75 . .. . 25 x 25 " " 3. 50 . .. . 5. 25 27 x 27 " " 6. 25- 7. 50 . .. . 

The 3x3 yards cloth is called a banquet cloth, and is one for which theaverage housekeeper would have little use. 

NECESSARY SUPPLY

The amount of table linen to be bought for the first "fitting out"depends upon the fatness of the pocketbook and the room available forstowing it away. Since there are so many other expenses at this time thebest way will probably be to buy all that will be needed for a year, andthen add to it one or two cloths with their napkins each succeeding year. Three cloths of the right length for everyday use, and one long"family-gathering" cloth, with a dozen napkins to match each, will be agood start. If the special-occasion cloth seems to be too costly, twoshort cloths of duplicate pattern can be substituted for it, thecenterpiece and a clever arrangement of decorations hiding the joining. If table linen is to be stored away and not used for some time after itspurchase, the dressing which it contains must be thoroughly washed out, else the chemicals are liable to rot the fabric. It is advisable, too, to put not-to-be-used damask away rough-dry, otherwise it may crack, inthe folds. The use of colored table linens is in the worst possibletaste, except on the servants' table. Those flaming ferocities known as"turkey-red" cloths, which seem to fairly fly at one, are not onlyinartistic but altogether too suggestive of economy in laundering to beappetizing table companions. 

PLAIN, HEMSTITCHED, OR DRAWN

Cloths bought by the yard must be evened at the ends by drawing a thread, and hemmed by hand, never stitched on the machine. The inch hem of a fewyears ago has been superseded by the very narrow one which is always ingood taste, regardless of style. Napkins come by the piece and must bedivided and hemmed on two sides, rubbing well between the hands first toremove the stiffness. 

There is nothing handsomer or more elegant than the fine, hemmed tablelinen, but if a hemstitched cloth is desired, or one containing somedrawn-work design, it is better to buy the material and do the workoneself; otherwise; the expense goes into the work, not the linen, andthe cost is usually about double that of the same cloth plainly finished. Hemstitching and fancy work are appropriate only on cloths for theluncheon table, which may be of either plain or figured damask, or ofheavy linen, which is often effectively combined with Battenberg andlinen laces. Neither drawn work nor hemstitching wears well, drawing thethreads seeming to weaken the fabric. Very pretty luncheon cloths can bepurchased in different sizes for $1. 50, $1. 75, $2. 00, $2. 75, etc. , according to size, material, and elaboration, with accompanying napkins, 18 by 18 inches, for $2. 50 or more a dozen. A cloth just the size of thetable top is a convenient luncheon size. These cloths save much wear onthe large cloths, and laundry work as well. 

DOILIES AND TABLE DRESSING

The pretty present-day fashion of using individual plate doilies on apolished table at breakfast and luncheon is also labor-saving. The platedoilies, either square, oval, or round, and of plain damask or smooth, closely woven, rather heavy linen, are hemstitched or finished with apadded scallop worked with white cotton. The round doily is most used, and offers a delightful field to the worker in over-and-over embroideryfor the display of her skill. Linen lace combinations are also used, butthey are rather for dress-up than for daily use. The plate doiliesshould be at least 9 inches wide, with smaller corresponding ones onwhich to set the glass of water or the hot cup, and an extra one or twofor small dishes for relishes and the like that may be kept on the table, etc. They can he bought for 25 cents a piece and upward, but the averagehousekeeper enjoys making her own, taking them for "pick-up" work. Smallfringed napkins are also used in the same way, and for tray covers, butfringe soon grows to look "dog-eared, " and mats in the laundering. Stillanother dressing for the bare table is the long hemstitched linen strip, 12 inches wide, which runs the length of the table, hanging over the end, and is crossed at the middle by a second strip extending over the sides, two strips thus seating four people. When six are to be seated thecross-piece is moved to one side and a third corresponding strip placedabout 18 inches from it. 

The list of table linen is incomplete without a damask carving cloth tomatch each tablecloth, which it protects from spatterings from theplatter. This also may be fashioned of plain linen, should be aboutthree-quarters of a yard wide and a yard long, and either hemstitched orscalloped--embroidered, too, if one cares to put that much energy intowork which will show so little. And then there must be some doilies tooverlay the Canton-flannel-covered asbestos mats for use under hot dishes. 

CENTERPIECES

Styles in centerpieces are fleeting; just now all-white holds sway, andof a surety there is nothing daintier. Although pretty centers can bepurchased all the way up from $1, here again the mistress's industriousfingers come into play, for there is a certain unbuyable satisfaction inworking a little of one's very self into the table adornment, and reallyhandsome centerpieces are quite expensive. They run in sizes from 12 to45 inches. The center with doilies to match is pretty and desirable. Itis quite as easy to arrange them in this way as to gather in anill-assorted, mismated collection. Those for daily use should be rathersimple and of a quality which will not suffer from frequent intercoursewith the washtub. 

MONOGRAMS

The fashion of embroidering monograms on table linen must be handled withcare; the working over-and-over of the padded letters with fine cottonthread is a nice task which requires experience and skill. The clothmonograms are from 2 to 3 inches high and are placed at one side of thecenter, toward the corner. Either the full monogram or an initial isappropriate in the corner of the napkin, and to be in the best tasteshould never be more than an inch high. These letters are either plain, in circlets, or surrounded with running vines, and add that distinctionto the napery which handwork always imparts. 

CARE OF TABLE LINEN

Table linen, like friendship, must be kept constantly in repair. Lookout for the thin places and darn before they have a chance to wearthrough. Ravelings from the cloth should be kept for this purpose. Acarefully applied patch or darn is scarcely noticeable after laundering. The hardest wear comes where the cloth hangs over the edge of the table, at head and foot. When it begins to be thin at these places cut off oneend at the worn point, if the cloth is sufficiently long to warrant it, and hem the raw edge. This draws the other worn place well up on thetable where the friction is much less, considerably lengthening the lifeof the cloth. The cut-off end may be converted into fringed napkins, onwhich to lay croquettes, fried potatoes, etc. , doilies for bread and cakeplates, children's napkins, or tray covers. Old table linen passesthrough several stages of decline before it becomes absolutely useless;when too much worn for table purposes it enwraps our bread and cake andstrains our jellies, and when at last it has won the well-earned rest ofage, it still waits in neat rolls to bandage our cuts and bruises. 

HOW TO LAUNDER

There is a saying that "Old linen whitens best, " to which we might alsoadd that it looks best, gaining additional smoothness and gloss with eachlaundering. Table linen should never dry on the line, but be brought inwhile still damp, very carefully folded, and ironed bone-dry, withabundant "elbowgrease. " This is the only way to give it a "satin gloss. "_Never_ use starch. The pieces should be folded evenly and carefully, with but one crease--down the middle--and not checker-boarded with dozensof lines. Centers and large doilies are best disposed of by rolling overa round stick well padded. 

TABLE PADS

Much wear and tear on both table and cloth is prevented by the use of adouble-faced Canton-flannel pad, which prevents the cloth from cuttingthrough on the edges, gives it body, softens the clatter of the dishes, and absorbs liquids. It comes in 1 1/2- and 1 3/4-yard widths and sellsfor 65 to 85 cents a yard. Pads of asbestos are also used, but are farmore expensive. It is a good plan to have two if possible--one for useon the everyday table, and a longer one to cover the family-gatheringtable. Covers for the sideboard and any small table used in the diningroom are of hemstitched or scalloped linen, either plain orembroidered--never ruffled or fluffy. 

READY-MADE BED LINEN

Buying bed linen is not so very serious a matter. Drygoods stores offersheets and pillowcases ready made to fit any sized bed or pillow atprices little, if any, greater than the cost of those made at home. Merchants say that they sell one hundred sheets ready made to one by theyard, which speaks well, not for their goods alone, but for the spirit ofhousewifely economy which maintains that labor saved is time and strengthearned. Moreover, the deluded seeker after bed beauty who wastes herprecious hours in hemstitching sheets and pillowcases--cotton ones atthat--is a reckless spendthrift, and needs a course in the economics ofcommon sense. Nothing is more desirable than the simple elegance of theplain, broad hem, nor more disheartening than hemstitching which hasbroken from its moorings while the rest of the sheet is still perfectlygood--a way it has. Hem-stitching may answer on linen sheets which arenot in constant use, but ordinarily let us have the more profitableplainness. Good sheets are always torn--not cut--and finished with a 21/2- or 3-inch hem at the top and an inch hem at the bottom, the finishedsheet measuring not less than 2 3/4 yards. There must be ample length toturn back well over the blankets and to tuck in at the foot, for it is amost irritating sensation to waken in the night with the wool ticklingone's toes and scratching one's chin. Sheets are to be had in varyingwidths to suit different sized beds. 

PRICE AND QUALITY

The 2 3/4-yard length in an average sheet of good quality costs 90 centsfor a double bed, 75 cents for a three-quarter bed, and 45 cents for asingle bed, with hemstitched sheets of corresponding quality at the sameprice. It is hardly worth while to pay more than this, while very goodsheets are to be had for 75 cents, with a decrease in price as the widthdecreases. Half-bleach double-bed sheets of good quality cost 85 and 70cents, and so on, and are more especially for servants' beds. They arepopularly supposed to outwear the bleached, but are somewhat tryingbedfellows until whitened. 

Plain or hemstitched pillowcases cost from 25 to 75 cents a pair, eachadditional width raising the price 5 cents. The average or sleeping-sizepillow is 22 1/2 by 36 1/2 inches, and calls for a case enough larger toslip on easily, but not loose nor long enough to hang over the sides ofthe bed. If pillows of different sizes are in use their cases should benumbered. 

Bed linen should be firmly woven, with a thread rather coarse than fine. The amount purchased must be regulated by the number of beds to befurnished, allowing three sheets and three pairs of cases to each. Thesupply can always be easily added to, but if expedient for any reason tobuy in large quantities, set apart enough to supply all the beds and keepthe rest in reserve, otherwise it will all give out at once. If thehousewife is so unfortunately situated that she is forced to make her ownbed linen, she will do well to buy her material by the piece--40 to 50yards. All hems can be run on the machine. 

REAL LINEN

Though not everyone likes the "feel" of linen, most housekeepers areambitious to include a certain amount with their other bed linens, foruse in the summer or during illness, because of its non-absorbentqualities. Sheets cost $3, $3. 50, $4, $5, $6, and on up to $17, the moreexpensive ones being embellished with hemstitching, scallops, or lace. Pillowcases to correspond sell at from $1. 25 up. Linen for this purposeis always bleached, the 90-inch sheeting being $1 to $3 a yard, the45-inch pillowcasing 50 cents to $1. 50 a yard, and 50-inch casing 75cents to $2 a yard. Inch-high monograms or letters may be embroidered inwhite at the middle of sheets and pillowcases, just above the hem. Whensheets wear thin down the center, tear and "turn, " whipping the selvagestogether and hemming the torn edges, which become the new edges of thesheet. Old bed linen makes the finest kind of cleaning cloths, andshould be folded neatly away for that purpose, sheets being reserved forthe ironing board. 

SUGGESTIONS ABOUT TOWELS

Towels are best purchased by the dozen, huck of Irish bleached linenbeing best for all-around use. These have good absorbent qualities, plain or hemstitched hems, measure from 18 by 36 inches to 24 by 42inches, and cost from $2. 50 to $6 a dozen. Some of these are "OldBleach" linen, and therefore both desirable and durable. Pass by towelswith colored borders; the colored part is always cotton, and is in poortaste anyway. Some huck towels have damask borders; other towels are ofall-damask, costing from $6 to $12 a dozen, but huck is the stand-by. Fringed towels, of course, are not to be considered for a moment. Eachmember of the family should have his own individual towel, or set oftowels, distinguished by some mark, particularly children, who find ithard to learn that towels are for drying, not cleansing, purposes. Thosefor their use may be smaller and cheaper. Turkish or bath towels are ofeither cotton or linen, the latter being more for friction purposes andcosting $6 to $12 a dozen. The cotton absorbs better and is mostgenerally used for the bath. Good values in towels of this kind are tobe had for $2. 50, $2. 85, $3, and $4. 50 a dozen. Good crash face clothscost 5 cents and even less. 

Household linens must include, too, the 6 barred-linen kitchen towels at10, 12, or 15 cents a yard, for drying silver and glass; and 6 heaviertowels, either barred or crash, for china and other ware, at the sameprice, with 3 roller towels at 10 cents per yard; while last, but by nomeans least, come the dozen neatly hemmed cheesecloth dusters at 5 centsa yard, for men must work and women must sweep--and dust!

CHAPTER VI

THE KITCHEN

The old condition of "Queen-Anne-in-the-front-and-Mary-Ann-in-the-back"in the home furnishing, when the largest outlay of money and taste wasput into the "front room" and the kitchen took the hindermost, hasgradually given way before the fact that a woman is known, not by thedrawing-room, but by the kitchen, she keeps. Given the requisitequalifications for the proper furnishing, care, and ordering of herkitchen, and it can usually be said of her with truth that she ismistress of the entire home-making and home-keeping situation. If anyone room in the home was conceived solely for the relief of man'sestate, that room is the kitchen, and it has supplied the energy whichhas sent forth many a one to fight a winning battle with the world, theflesh, and the devil; and while it is, alas, too true that it is therock upon which many a domestic ship has gone to pieces, it is the truefoundation of the home and, therefore, of the nation. Wherefore let usfirst look well to our kitchens and then live up to them. 

THE PLAN

The kitchen of our grandmothers was a large, rambling affair, withnumerous storerooms, closets, and pantries, the care of which involveda stupendous outlay of time and strength. But the demands of ourmodern and more strenuous life necessitate strict economy of both, andthe result is a kitchen sufficiently large for all practical purposes, with every space utilized and everything convenient to the hand. Theamount of woodwork is reduced to a minimum, since wood is a harboringplace for insects and germs. Where it must be used it is of hard wood, or of pine painted and varnished, the varnish destroying thosequalities in paint which are deleterious to health. The plumbing mustbe open, with no dark corners in which dust may hide. Odors fromcooking pass out through a register in the chimney, and ventilation isafforded by transom and window. Blessed indeed is the kitchen withopposite windows, which insure a perfect circulation of air. So muchfor the general working plan. 

LOCATION AND FINISH

For some reason best known to themselves architects almost invariablygive to the kitchen the location with the least agreeable outlook, sunand scenery being seemingly designed for the exclusive use of livingand dining rooms; whereas the housekeeper realizes the great value ofthe sun as an aid to sanitation and as a soul strengthener, and wishesthat its beneficent influence might be shed over kitchen, cook, andcookery. But the frequent impossibility of this only increases thenecessity for simulating sunshine within, and so we select cream white, warm, light grays or browns, Indian red, or bronze green--which isparticularly good with oak woodwork--for walls and ceilings. Waterproof paper may be used, but is not particularly durable. Farbetter is the enameled paint, requiring three coats, or painted burlap. Or our thoughts may turn with longing to a white-tiled kitchen, withits air of spotless purity, but, too often, "beyond the reach of youand me. " Why not substitute for it the white marbled oilcloth whichproduces much the same effect, and can be smoothly fitted if a littleglue is added to the paste with which it is put on? A combination ofwhite woodwork with blue walls and ceiling is charming, particularlywhere the blue-enameled porcelain-lined cooking utensils are used, andthe same idea can be carried out in the floor covering. White withyellow is also dainty. Calcimine is not desirable in the kitchen, asit cannot be cleaned and is, therefore, unsanitary. Two tablespoonfulsof kerosene added to the cleaning water will keep woodwork, walls, andceilings fresh and glossy. A long-handled mopholder fitted with acoarse carriage sponge will facilitate the cleaning of the latter. 

[Illustration: The kitchen. ]

THE FLOOR

Despite the fact that we are enjoined to "look up, not down, " the floorseems to be the focal point to anyone entering the kitchen, and itbecomes a source of pride or humiliation to the occupant according toits condition. A beautiful, snowy hardwood floor, "clean enough to eaton, " is a delight, but it has such an insatiable appetite for spotsafter the newness has worn off that it requires frequentscrubbing--twice a week at least--and on a dry day, if possible, withdoors and windows opened during the operation, all of which meansenergy misapplied. To be sure, the new "colonial" cotton-rag rugs, woven in harmony with the general color scheme, protect the floor andhelp to relieve the strain of much standing, and can he washed anddried as satisfactorily as any piece of cotton cloth; while raw oil, applied with a soft cloth or a handful of waste every two months, willkeep the floor in good condition. But the housekeeper who chooses thebetter part covers her floor with linoleum at comparatively small cost, a piece good both in quality and design selling at 60 cents a squareyard. In this, too, the color idea can be carried out, the smallerdesigns being preferable. Neutral tints follow wood-carpeting designs, are neat, and less apt to soil than the lighter patterns. It is a wiseplan in buying to allow enough linoleum for three smaller pieces to beplaced before stove, table, and sink, thus saving wear and tear on thelarge piece. Thus covered, the floor is easily cleaned with a dampcloth. It must be thoroughly swept once a day, followed by a generaldusting of the room, with brushings up between times. 

THE WINDOWS

Kitchen windows must he washed once a week--oftener in fly time. Adainty valance, or sash curtains of muslin, dimity, or other summerwash goods, give an attractive and homey touch to the room. Eachwindow should have a shade with a double fixture, fastened at themiddle of the casement and adjusted upward and below from that point. 

THE SINK

The sink, unless it is porcelain-lined, should be kept well painted andenameled, white being preferable to any color. Faucets can be keptbright by rubbing with whiting and alcohol, followed by a vigorouspolishing with a bit of flannel. It surely cannot be necessary tosuggest the dangers arising from an untidy sink in which refuse ofvarious kinds--tea leaves, coffee grounds, vegetable parings, and thelike--is allowed to accumulate. Unsanitary conditions about the sinknot only are unsightly, but attract roaches and breed germs which are amenace to life and health. The rinsing water from coffee and tea potsand cooking utensils should be poured into the sink strainer, whichcatches the odds and ends of refuse and keeps them from clogging thedrain pipe. Grease must never be poured into the sink, nor dish norcleaning cloths used after they are worn enough to shed lint. Boilingwater and ammonia should be poured down the drain pipe once a day, which treatment must be supplemented once a week with a dose ofdisinfectant--chloride of lime, copperas, or potash in boiling water. An occasional inspection by a plumber makes assurance doubly sure thatthe condition of the drain pipe is as it should be. All refuse oughtto be burned at once or put into a covered garbage can and disposed ofas soon as possible. The can itself must be scalded every day with salsoda water, thoroughly dried, and lined with thick, clean paper. 

THE PANTRY

The same treatment accorded the kitchen in decoration and care must bebestowed also upon the pantry, which should be dry and well ventilated. After a thorough scrubbing with soap and water, with the aid of a dishmop rinse the shelves with boiling water, dry carefully, and cover withplain white paper, using the ornamental shelf paper for the edges. White table oilcloth makes a good covering, and comes speciallyprepared with a fancy border for that purpose. The convenient pantryis equipped with both shelves and drawers, the latter to contain theneatly folded piles of dish, glass, and hand towels, cheeseclothdusters, holders, and cleaning cloths. There are usually four shelves, the top one being reserved for articles of infrequent use. On theothers are arranged the kitchen dishes, pans, and all utensils which donot hang, together with jars and cans containing food. Leave nothingin paper bags or boxes to attract insects, soil the shelves, and give adisorderly appearance to an otherwise tidy pantry. Glass fruit jarsare desirable repositories for small dry groceries--tea, coffee, rice, tapioca, raisins, currants, and the like--though very dainty andserviceable covered porcelain jars in blue and white are madeespecially for this purpose, those of medium size costing 25 centseach, the smaller ones less, the larger more. Jars or cans of japannedtin, designed for like use, are less expensive, but also lessattractive, and in the course of time are liable to rust, particularlyin summer, or where the climate is at all damp. The shelves should bewiped off and regulated once a week, and crockery and utensils kept asbright and shining as plenty of soap and hot water can make them. Thepantry requires special care during the summer, when dust and flies areprone to corrupt its spotlessness. A wall pocket hung on the door willbe found a convenient dropping place for twine, scissors, and papers. 

INSECTS AND THEIR EXTERMINATION

It is not just pleasant to associate cockroaches and ants with ourkitchens and pantries, but where heat and moisture and food are, thereinsects will be also, for they seem to enjoy a taste of high life andto thrive on it. Keep the house clean, dry, and well aired, and alldish and cleaning cloths sweet and fresh by washing and dryingimmediately after use, with a weekly boiling in borax water; disposecarefully of all food, and then wage a war of extermination. This isall that will avail in an insect-infested house. Hunt out, ifpossible, the nests or breeding places of ants and saturate withboiling water or with kerosene. Wash all woodwork, shelves, anddrawers with carbolic-acid water and inject it into any crack oropening where the pests appear. It has been suggested that ants can bekept out of drawers and closets by a "dead line" drawn with a brushdipped in corrosive sublimate one ounce, muriate of ammonia two ounces, and water one pint, while a powder of tartar emetic, dissolved in asaucer of water, seems to be effective in driving them away. Spongeswet with sweetened water attract them in large numbers, and when fullshould be plunged in boiling water. Another successful "trap" is aplate thinly spread with lard, this also to be dropped into boilingwater when filled. In order to protect the table from an invasionstand the legs in dishes of tar water to a depth of four inches. Antshave a decided distaste for the odors of pennyroyal and oil of cedar, afew drops of either on bits of cotton frequently sufficing to drivethem away entirely. As for cockroaches, there appear to be almost asmany "exterminators" as there are housewives; but what is their poisonin one home seems to make them wax and grow fat in another. Borax andpowdered sugar, scattered thickly over shelves and around baseboardsand sink, is a favorite remedy with many, but it is an unsightly mess, particularly in summer, when the sugar melts and becomes sticky. Afterall, experience has demonstrated that the one really effectual methodof extermination is to besiege the roaches in their own bailiwick--thepipes and woodwork about the sink--with a large bellows filled with agood, reliable insect powder. Exit roaches!

THE REFRIGERATOR AND ITS CARE

The refrigerator may or may not stand in the pantry, according toconvenience, or as there is sewer connection for it. Some authoritiesmaintain that there is grave danger from sewer gas where therefrigerator is connected directly with the sewer, and that, therefore, the only safe way to dispose of the waste water is to catch it in a panplaced beneath the refrigerator, unless the house is so built that thewaste pipe can be continued down into the cellar and there empty itscontents into a sink. A good, zinc-lined refrigerator, interlined withcharcoal, with a hundred-pound capacity, a removable ice pan, whichfacilitates cleaning, and three shelves, is to be had for $16. 50. Inselecting a refrigerator it is well to choose one of medium size, as alarger one entails waste of ice, while a smaller necessitates theplacing near together of foods which should be kept apart, as butterand milk with fish, fruit, etc. If one cares to invest in thehigher-priced refrigerators, of course those lined with tile, porcelain, or enamel are very desirable, as they are easily kept cleanand do not absorb odors. But for the average income and use, afirst-class zinc-lined refrigerator answers every purpose. It shouldbe thoroughly cleansed, on the mornings when the ice is to be renewed, with hot sal soda water followed by a cold bath and a thorough drying. The drain pipe must not be overlooked, but given the same sal sodatreatment, otherwise it becomes coated and a fruitful source of germs. If, after this has been done, a musty odor still clings about therefrigerator, remove the shelves and boil in the clothes boiler fortwenty minutes. Pieces of charcoal placed in the corners of therefrigerator and frequently renewed will absorb much of the odor. Never place warm food in the refrigerator, nor food of any kind on theshelves, unless it is first placed on a plate or platter. It iseconomy to keep the ice chamber well filled, and all ice should be wellwashed before being placed therein. Some housekeepers cover the ice, with newspapers or carpet. This no doubt helps to preserve it, but italso keeps the cold from the food chambers. No food and nothingcontaining it should ever be placed directly on the ice. 

FURNISHING THE KITCHEN

And now, having cleaned and decorated our kitchen and pantry, andprovided for the refrigeration and partial disposal of our food, suppose we turn our attention to the fascinating task of selecting thedifferent parts of the machinery which turns out that finishedmasterpiece--a perfect meal--bearing in mind in the meantime that thesaying, "Art is the expression of joy in one's work, " applies tonothing more truly than to the art of cookery, and that no toolsnecessary to its perfect success nor to her comfort and convenienceshould be denied that master artist, the cook, be she mistress or maid. 

THE STOVE

Of paramount importance is, of course, the stove, and what kind itshall be, whether gas, coal, or oil. Those of us who have grownaccustomed to the immunity from those inevitable accompaniments of acoal range, ashes, soot, dust, and heat, afforded by the gas range, with its easily regulated broiler and oven, could hardly be persuadedto go back to first principles, as it were, and the coal range. Butwhen this is necessary, either for warmth or because there is no gasconnection in the house, one has a wide choice of first-class stovesand can hardly go astray in selecting one. Twenty-one dollars will buya good, durable stove with all modern improvements and a large oven. Astove with the same capacity but manufactured under a world-famous namesells for $32, while between the two in price is one at $28. Two firmsmanufacture, in connection with their regular line of ranges, athree-plate gas stove which can be attached directly to the range, andsells for $6. A portable steel oven, covering two burners, for use ongas and oil stoves alike, adds to the convenience of the gas plate, andsells for $2. If a gas range is desired, an excellent one with a largeoven, broiler, and all conveniences may be purchased for $18, one witha smaller oven for $15. It might be well to suggest in passing that asmall oven is poor economy. Water backs, for both gas and coal ranges, are $3. 50 each. Where gas is unobtainable a three-burner wicklessoil-stove plate will be found to give very good satisfaction, and canbe placed on the coal range or on a table or box. The range of thesame capacity is $1 more, with an increase in price corresponding withthe number of burners, until we have the five-burner stove at $11. Todo away with the odor which is apt to result from the use of oil asfuel, remove the burners, boil in sal soda water, dry thoroughly, andreturn to the stove. In setting up a stove look carefully to it thatthe height is right, otherwise the cook's back is sure to suffer. Iftoo low, blocks can be placed under the legs to raise it to acomfortable height. A whisk broom hung near the stove is useful inremoving crumbs, dust, etc. , and keeping it tidy. A rack behind thestove, on which to hang the spoons and forks used in cooking, is agreat convenience and a saving to the table top. 

THE TABLE AND ITS CARE

The table should stand on casters and be placed in a good light as farfrom the stove as may be. The latest product of the manufacturer'sgenius in this line contains two drawers--one spaced off intocompartments for the different knives, forks, and spoons for kitchenuse--a molding board, and three zinc-lined bins, one large one forwheat flour, and two smaller one for graham flour, corn meal, etc. When one considers the economy of steps between kitchen and pantrywhich it makes possible, its price, $6. 75, is not large, while itobviates the necessity for purchasing bins and molding board. Ourfriend, the white table oilcloth, tacked smoothly in place, gives adainty top which is easily kept clean with a damp cloth--anotherlabor-saving device, which stands between cook and scrubbing brush. Azinc table cover is preferred by some housewives, as it absorbs nogrease and is readily brightened with scouring soap and hot water. Separate zinc-covered table tops can be had for $1. 50. Themarble-topped table is not desirable, for, though it undoubtedly is anaid to the making of good pastry, it stains easily, dissolves in someacids, and clogs with oils. The easiest way to keep the table cleanand neat is simply to--keep it so. When the mixing of cake, pudding, etc. , is in process, a large bowl should be near at hand, and into itshould go egg beater, spoons, and forks when the cook is through usingthem, after which they, with all other soiled utensils, should becarried to the sink, washed, dried, and put away. Never lay eggshellsupon the table nor allow anything to dry on the utensils. If, asoccasionally happens even in the best-regulated kitchens, one is bakingin too great a hurry to observe all these precautions, a heavy paperspread on the table will catch all the droppings and can be rolled upand burned. Jars containing sugar, spices, etc. , which have been inuse, should be wiped with a damp cloth before returning to the pantry. 

THE CHAIRS

The first aid to the cook should be at least one comfortable chair, neither a rocking chair nor one upholstered, both of which are out ofplace in the kitchen; but one low enough to rest in easily whileshelling peas or doing some of the numerous tasks which do not requirethe use of the table. A chair of this kind has a cane seat and highback and can be purchased for $1. 25, the other chair to be of theregulation kitchen style at 55 cents. The second aid is a 24-inchoffice stool at 85 cents, for use while washing dishes, preparingvegetables, etc. This sort of a stool is light, easily moved about, and means a great saving in strength. Though it has sometimes beendubbed a "nuisance" by the uninitiated, the woman who has learned itsvalue finds it a very present help and wonders how she ever did withoutit. 

THE KITCHEN CABINET

Occasionally it happens that a house is built with such slight regardfor pantry room that we are constrained to wonder if, at the lastminute, the pantry was not tucked into a little space for which therewas absolutely no other use, and there left to be a means of grace tothe thrifty housewife, whose pride it is to see her pots and pans inorderly array and with plenty of room to shine in. At this point therecomes to her rescue the kitchen cabinet, which not only relieves thecongestion in the pantry, but adds in no small measure to theattractiveness of the kitchen. These cabinets come in the naturalwoods, and should, as nearly as possible, match the woodwork of thekitchen. Many have the satin finish which renders them impervious togrease, and all are fitted out with molding boards, shelves, cupboards, and drawers of various sizes. So convenient is a cabinet of this kind, and so economical of steps, that it might well be called "the completehousewife. " First and foremost, it accommodates the kitchen dishes, plates, platters, and saucers, standing on edge of course, with cupshanging from small hooks, and pitchers, bowls, etc. , variouslyarranged. Then come the jars of spice, sugar, salt, tea, andcoffee--all groceries, in fact, which are in most frequent use. Wherethe decorative design in both jars and dishes is carried out in theblue and white, with a utensil or two of the same coloring, the effectis truly charming, though this is, of course, a matter of individualtaste. The cupboards are handy hiding places for the less ornamentalbottles, brushes, etc. , while the base, which is really nothing morenor less than a very complete kitchen table, usually has a shelf forkettles, stone jars, etc. A good cabinet can be had for $10, a morecommodious one for $16, and so on. The cabinets without bases rangefrom a tiny one, just large enough to hold six spice jars, at $1, toone, with five drawers, shelves, and cupboards with glass doors, for$6. Any price beyond this simply means elaboration of design withoutadditional increase of capacity or convenience. 

KITCHEN UTENSILS

In selecting dishes and cooking utensils it is well to remember thatcheapness does not always spell economy, and that one buys not alonefor the present, but for the future as well. Utensils which requirescouring are not economical, either, for scouring is friction, and"friction means loss of energy. " Scouring has gone out with the heavyironware which required it, in whose stead we have the pretty porcelainenamel ware and the less expensive agate ware, both of which need onlya thorough washing in hot, soapy water, rinsing in boiling water, andcareful drying. Ware of this kind helps to produce the kitchenrestful, and so, indirectly, the cook rested. A well-cared-for kitchenis always more or less attractive, but why not make it rather more sothan less? Taste and harmony add nothing to the expense of furnishing, and there is a certain dignity and inspiration, as well assatisfaction, in being able to "bring forth butter in a lordly dish. "Kitchen crockery is being rapidly supplanted by the porcelain enameldishes, which, though rather more expensive in the beginning, areunbreakable, and so cheaper in the long run. They are even invadingthe domain of the faithful yellow mixing bowl and becoming decidedlypopular therein, being light in weight and more easily handled. Thecomplete equipment of the kitchen is a more costly operation than oneis apt to imagine, individual items amounting comparatively to solittle. But the sum total is usually a rather surprising figure. Andso, remembering that Rome was not built in a day, carefully selectthose things which are really the essentials of every day, adding theuseful non-essentials bit by bit. The size and number of utensils mustbe governed by the size of the family in which they are to be used. Never buy anything of copper for kitchen use, as the rust to which itis liable is a dangerous poison. There is one utensil only which isbetter to be of iron--the soup kettle--as it makes possible the slowsimmering which is necessary for good soups and stews. It is not worthwhile to buy knives of anything but wrought steel, which are bestcleaned with pumice stone. Cheesecloth for fish bags and strainers, and strong cotton for pudding bags must not be overlooked. 

And so, with kitchen complete, artistic, and satisfactory in everydetail, it remains but to emphasize two facts--that perfect cleanlinessis absolutely essential to health, and that she who looketh well to theways of her kitchen eateth not the bread of idleness. 

The following list may be too extensive for some purposes, not suitedto others, but out of it the new housekeeper can select what she thinksher establishment will need, and estimate the price of stocking herkitchen with those necessaries which make for good housekeeping:

 1 dozen individual jelly molds. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . $0. 60 1 griddle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 35 1 small funnel. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 03 1 large funnel. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 06 1 gas toaster. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 55 1 coal toaster. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 08 1 gas broiler. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 65 1 coal broiler. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 32 1 six-quart iron soup kettle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 50 1 skimmer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 14 1 small ladle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 09 1 porcelain enamel dipper. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 40 1 porcelain enamel sink strainer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 40 1 towel rack. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 1 clock. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 00 1 purée sieve, with pestle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 18 2 galvanized iron refrigerator pans. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 50 1 dozen dish towels. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 20 6 dishcloths. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 30 1 set of scales. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 95 1 vegetable slicer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 2 butter paddles. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 12 1 can opener. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 08 1 potato ricer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 1 apple corer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 05 1 chopping bowl. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 1 tea kettle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 05 1 ice pick. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 12 1 pair scissors. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 23 1 scrub brush. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 20 1 sink brush. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 08 1 mop handle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 38 1 oil can. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 35 1 whisk broom. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 1 small porcelain enamel pitcher. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 26 1 two-quart porcelain enamel pitcher. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 55 1 cake turner. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 08 1 porcelain enamel wash basin. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 28 1 potato scoop. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 18 1 towel roller. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 1 rolling-pin. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 1 four-quart porcelain enamel saucepan, with cover. .. . . 57 1 eight-quart porcelain enamel bread bowl. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 72 1 gravy strainer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 18 1 nutmeg grater. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 09 1 spatula. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 25 1 egg beater. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 1 dish mop. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 05 2 iron baking pans. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 20 1 collander. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 35 1 ten-inch porcelain enamel bowl. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 35 2 eight-inch porcelain enamel bowls. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 48 3 five-inch porcelain enamel bowls. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 33 1 fryer and basket. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 50 4 bread pans. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 60 1 two-quart double boiler. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 95 2 dish pans (agate). .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 10 1 omelet pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 1 porcelain enamel teapot. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 65 1 porcelain enamel coffeepot. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 85 6 porcelain enamel plates. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 78 1 porcelain enamel platter. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 40 1 porcelain enamel platter (small). .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 35 6 porcelain enamel cups and saucers. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 14 Dredging boxes for salt, pepper, and flour. .. .. .. .. .. . . 35 3 pie tins. . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 12 1 galvanized iron garbage can, with cover. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 50 1 large dripping pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 17 1 small dripping pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 15 1 lemon squeezer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 05 1 molding board. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 40 4 layer-cake tins. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 16 2 porcelain sugar jars. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 50 6 porcelain spice jars. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 60 1 half-pint tin cup. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 05 1 six-quart milk pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 23 1 four-quart milk pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 17 3 wrought-steel knives. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 48 3 wrought-steel forks. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 48 1 egg spoon. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 08 1 dozen muffin rings. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 46 1 biscuit pan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 25 1 round fluted cake tin. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 12 2 basting spoons. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 24 6 kitchen knives. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 50 6 kitchen forks. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 50 6 kitchen teaspoons. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 48 3 kitchen tablespoons. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 3 asbestos mats. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 1 chopping knife. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 20 1 wire dishcloth. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 12 1 flour scoop. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 19 1 sugar scoop. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 1 meat grinder. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 50 1 soap shaker. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 1 flour sifter. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 1 coffee mill. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 50 2 measuring cups. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 15 1 meat fork. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 09 1 larding needle. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 2 brooms. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 60 1 long-handled hair broom. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 45 1 dustpan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 12 1 scouring box. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 50 1 draining rack. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 1 bread knife. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 25 1 cake knife. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 20 1 meat knife . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 55 1 peeling knife. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 1 bread box. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 70 1 cake box. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 70 1 three-quart porcelain enamel saucepan. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 36 1 oblong loaf-cake tin. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 15 1 jelly mold. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 30 1 wooden spoon. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 05 1 salt box. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 1 pepper box. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 10 1 graduated quart measure. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 16 3 small vegetable brushes. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 15 1 dozen glass fruit jars. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 60 2 two-quart porcelain enamel saucepans. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 00 1 grater. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 18 1 paper scrub pail. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 2 two-quart agate pans. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 36

CHAPTER VII

THE LAUNDRY

What visions of dampness and disorder, of air malodorous with steam andsoap, of meals delayed and hurriedly prepared, of tempers ruffled andthe domestic machinery all disarranged and the discomforts of homeprominently in the foreground, are called forth by that magicword--washday! And yet, maligned though it be, it really is the day ofall the week the best; for does it not minister more than any one otherto our comfort and self-respect and general well-being? It may be"blue Monday" or blue Tuesday or blue any-other-day, but we very sooncome out of the azure when it is achieved and we find ourselvesentering upon another week's enjoyment of that virtue which is akin togodliness. In the brief interim of upheaval we may possibly wish wecould hark back to the days of the "forty-niner, " who solved hisindividual problem of personal cleanliness by simply dropping hissoiled clothing into a boiling spring, where it was turned and churnedand twisted and finally flung out, a clean and purified testimonial toMother Nature's ability as a laundress. Or perhaps the pretty pastoralof the peasant girl knee deep in the brook, rubbing her household linenon the stones, hath even greater charms. But the trouble is that weare neither "forty-niners" nor peasants, but just plain, latter-dayhousekeepers with a laundry problem to face, and finding that it, likemost other problems, is best solved by attacking it boldly, systematically, and according to certain fixed rules. 

[Illustration: The laundry. ]

LAUNDRY REQUISITES

The home laundry must be well ventilated and lighted, and in thebasement if possible, for obvious reasons, the chief being the reliefthus afforded to the otherwise congested kitchen and overburdenedkitchen stove, while at the same time one other menace to health--thesteam generated by the washing and drying--is removed from the mainpart of the house. It is highly essential that the laundry be properlyand completely equipped for the work of washing, boiling, drying, andironing. Stationary tubs are much to be desired, those porcelain-linedbeing more sanitary than either soapstone, which has a tendency toabsorb grease, or wood, which absorbs the uncleanness from the soiledlinen. It is especially necessary that the tubs be as impervious aspossible when the linen is soaked overnight. If tubs are to be bought, the paper ones have a decided advantage over the more well-known cedarones in being much lighter and consequently more easily handled, withonly a slight difference in price. It seems so well worth while tominimize the strain of heavy lifting when and wherever one can, sincewashing at best involves much hard work and fatigue. 

THE STOVE AND FURNISHINGS

The stove for laundry use may be either gas, oil, or coal, the latterbeing considered the most economical of fuel, while it often comes invery handy in the preparation of foods which require long stewing orsimmering. The wringer should be of medium size, either wooden oriron-framed, the former having the advantage of lightness, the latterof strength. The screws must be loosened after each washing andthoroughly dried. Any particles of rust can be removed with kerosene. The following list gives a very fair idea of the essentials of thewell-furnished laundry, and their cost:

 2 paper tubs. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . $2. 40 1 wringer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 3. 75 1 block-tin boiler with copper bottom. .. .. .. 2. 15 1 washboard. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 25 1 paper pail. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 25 1 long-handled starch spoon. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 08 1 long-handled dipper. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 12 1 set clothes bars . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 95 1 wash bench . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 75 1 fifty-foot hemp line. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 20 1 ironing board, or ) . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 95 1 skirt-board ) . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 50 3 Mrs. Potts' nickel-plated irons. .. .. .. .. .. 2. 85 1 sleeve and ruffle iron. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 35 1 iron rest. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 08 1 clothes stick. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 1 clothes basket. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 80 5 dozen clothespins. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 10 2 pieces beeswax. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 05

IRONS AND HOLDERS

If the ordinary flatirons are preferred, they may be had at 5 cents apound. They require, of course, the use of a good, stout holder, asbestos covered with ticking affording the best protection to thehand. Slip cases are nice for use of this kind, as they can be takenoff and washed. Pad the ironing board with Canton flannel or a coarseblanket, then draw tightly over it a white cotton cloth and fasten onthe under side. The padding must be absolutely smooth and without awrinkle. And there must be a piece of cheesecloth with which to wipepossible dust from the line, a scrubbing brush for the cleaning-upprocess which closes the washing drama, and the various preparationsused to remove stains and assist in the cleansing of the linen andclothing--borax, starch, bluing, ammonia, oxalic acid, soda, kerosene, turpentine, etc. 

PREPARING THE "WASH"

With all the "properties" in readiness, the fire burning well, andplenty of hot water to draw upon, the curtain rises on the laundresssorting the flannels, table linen, fine underwear, towels, and bedlinen, colored clothes and stockings into separate piles, each to bedisposed of in its turn, from fine articles down through to coarse, laying aside any which have stains. These stains she removes in avariety of ways, according to their nature, but removed they must bebefore going into the tub, where, in most instances, the hot suds willrender them ineradicable, although it has the reverse effect on dirt. It is a wise plan to mark, with a black thread before putting in thewash, any stains which are apt to be overlooked by the laundress, andthose on large pieces, such as bedspreads. 

REMOVING STAINS

The removal of stains from white goods is comparatively easy. Fruitand wine stains are removed by stretching the fabric over a bowl andpouring boiling water through the stain, repeating until it disappears. Boiling milk is sometimes applied successfully to wine stains in thesame way. A thick layer of salt rubbed into the stained portion andfollowed with the boiling-water treatment is also effective. Obstinatefruit stains yield to a thorough moistening with lemon, a good rubbingwith salt (a combination which is to be found all prepared at the drugstore under the name of Salts of Lemon), and the application of boilingwater. When nothing else avails, immerse the stained portion in a weaksolution of Javelle water--one half cup to one pail of boilingwater--allow it to soak a few minutes, and then rinse thoroughly. Javelle water can be procured of the druggist, but is as well preparedat home by dissolving four pounds of ordinary washing soda in onegallon of water, boiling ten minutes, and then adding to it one poundof chloride of lime. It should be kept well corked, and resorted to inextreme cases alone, as it is violent in its action on the clothes. For this reason special care must be given to rinsing after its use. 

Tea and coffee stains usually surrender to boiling water, but if theyprove obdurate rub in a little powdered borax and pour on more boilingwater. Chocolate stains can be removed in the same way. Sprinklingthe stain with borax and soaking first in cold water facilitates theaction of the boiling water. 

Rub iron rust with lemon and salt, and lay in the sun, repeating untilthe spot disappears. This is usually all that is necessary, but if thestain is very stubborn, spread over a bowl containing one quart ofwater and one teaspoonful of borax. Apply hydrochloric acid, drop bydrop, to the stain until it brightens, then dip at once into the water. 

If an ink stain is fresh, soak in milk, renewing the milk when itbecomes discolored. If very dry and well set use lemon and salt or theJavelle-water treatment. 

Mildew, which results from allowing damp clothes to lie in the basketfor a length of time, is obstinate and difficult to remove. Boil insalted buttermilk; or wet with lemon juice and stand in the sun. Ifthese treatments are ineffectual, resort to diluted oxalic acid orJavelle water, a careful rinsing to follow the application. Grassstains may be treated in a like manner, or washed in alcohol. Ammoniaand water, applied while the stain is fresh, will often remove it. 

Remove paint stains with benzene or turpentine, machine oil with coldwater and Ivory soap, vaseline with turpentine. 

Peroxide of hydrogen applied to blood stains while they are still moistcauses them to disappear at once. Soaking in cold water till thestains turn brown, then washing in warm water with soap is the usualtreatment. If the stain is on thick goods, make a paste of raw starchand apply several times. 

Pencil marks on linen should be rubbed off with an eraser, as hot watersets them. 

Soap and water is the best agent for removing stains from coloredgoods, _provided the color is fast_. Moisten the article, soap thestain, and after a few minutes wash alternately with oil of turpentineand water. If not satisfactorily removed make a mixture of yolk of eggand oil of turpentine, spread on the stain, allow to dry, scrape off, and wash thoroughly in hot water. Tampering with stains on garmentswhich are not warranted "fast color" is very risky, and often leavesthe second state of the garments worse than the first. 

SOAKING AND WASHING

The prologue of sorting the clothes and removing the stains being at anend, we are ready for the real "business" of the wash day--the washingitself--unless the laundress prefers to soak the clothes overnight. Ifso, dampen, soap well, particularly the most soiled spots, roll up andpack in the bottom of the tub, pour over tepid water, and leave tillmorning. Only the bed and body linen need be subjected to thistreatment, as the table linen is rarely sufficiently soiled to requireit, and the colored clothes and the stockings must never, under anycircumstances, be allowed to stay in water beyond the time necessary towash and rinse them. The water, if only hard water be obtainable, maybe softened by the addition of a little ammonia or borax. Water whichhas been discolored by soil after heavy rains or by the repairing ofwater pipes, should be strained through Canton flannel before use. After soaking, the linen should be put through the wringer, which willtake away much of the soil with the water, and then washed. As to theway in which this should be done there are various opinions, mostmethods in use by experienced laundresses being reliable. Each, however, usually has her favorite method of procedure which it isperhaps as well to allow her to follow. Pity 'tis, 'tis true, thatmany housekeepers are so ignorant of how the wash-day programme shouldreally be conducted that they are incapable of directing theincompetent laundress. The mistress of the house needs also to bemistress of the laundry, guiding operations there as elsewhere, seeingto it that body and table linens are not washed together, flannelsboiled, clothing rotted by overindulgence in sal soda, nor any othercrimes committed against law and order in the laundry. 

WASHING POWDERS AND SOAP

If bleaches of any kind are to be used--washing powders, sal soda, borax, and the like--it must be in either the soaking water or theboiler, and _very_ sparingly. Indeed, the use of bleaches at any timeis a custom more honored in the breach than the observance. Thoughthere is no hard-and-fast rule as to the order of precedence, it iswell to wash the woolens first, after shaking them free from lint anddust. Prepare two tubs of lukewarm suds, the second very light, addinga little borax dissolved in boiling water to each. Never apply soapdirectly to the flannel, nor rub on a board, which mats the wool, butrub with the hands, squeezing and dipping up and down in the firstwater till clean, rinse in the second water, which should be of aboutthe same temperature as the first, put through the wringer, shake well, pull into shape, and hang in the shade to dry. 

WASHING WOOLENS

Woolens must never hang in the sun nor near the fire, as the too-quickdrying causes them to shrink and harden. When nearly dry, press on thewrong side with a moderately hot iron. The rinsing water may be usedfor the first cotton wash. If both colored and white flannels are tobe washed, the former should be done first, thus avoiding the lintwashed from the latter. Drying can be accelerated by pressingrepeatedly between soft cloths. If the ordinary washing fails toremove any of the spots, spread on a smooth board and rub with a soft, wet, soapy brush. 

WASHING THE WHITE CLOTHES

Next comes the washing of the table linen, then the body linen, andthen the bed linen, the process for each being the same, though thetable linen requires the least rubbing. Wash in hot water in which thehand can be comfortably borne, soaping each piece well before it isrubbed, and paying particular attention to the hems of the sheets; dropinto a second tub of clear, hot water, rinse, and wring into a boilerabout half filled with cold water to which has been added onetablespoon of kerosene and sufficient soap chips to produce a goodsuds. Bring the water to a boil and boil ten minutes, stirringoccasionally with the clothes stick, Too long boiling yellows theclothes, and crowding the boiler is to be avoided. From the boiler theclothes are lifted to a tub of clear, cold water, thoroughly rinsed, transferred to the tub of bluing water where they are well and evenlysaturated, wrung out, and those which are not to be starched hung onthe line where sun and breeze are most active. The bluing must bethoroughly mixed with the water. Clothes which have been carefullywashed and rinsed need but little bluing. Hang sheets and tableclothsout straight and stretch the selvages even. Pillowcases should be hungby the seam opposite the hem. 

STARCH

Prepare the starch by dissolving one half cup of starch in cold water, pour on this one quart of boiling water, and boil till clear and white, stirring constantly. When nearly ready to take from the stove add alittle borax, lard, butter, or white wax. A teaspoonful of granulatedsugar is believed by many to be the most desirable addition. This willbe of the right consistency for ordinary articles--skirts, aprons, etc. The same degree of strength in starch will not suit all kinds offabrics, collars, cuffs, etc. , requiring the stronger solution made bydoubling the amount of starch; thin lawns and other fine materials theweaker produced by doubling the amount of water. Dip each article inthe hot starch, those requiring the most stiffening being dipped first, because it is necessary to thin the starch. See that the starch isevenly distributed, press out as much as possible with the hands, putthrough the wringer, shake out all creases, and pin evenly on the line. Additional stiffness is given by dipping the already starched and driedarticle in raw starch, which is made by moistening a handful of starchin a quart of cold water and rubbing in enough Ivory or other finewhite soap to produce a very slight suds. Squeeze out the superfluousmoisture, roll in a clean white cloth, and leave for half an hour. Iron while still damp. In stiffening pillowcases dilute the starchuntil it is of the consistency of milk. Mourning starch should be usedfor black goods. Never hang starched things out in freezing, damp, orwindy weather. 

COLORED CLOTHES

Colored articles must be washed, starched, dried, and ironed asspeedily as possible. Prepare warm suds with Ivory or Castile soap andadd to it a handful of salt to set the color. Wash each piece throughthis, and rinse through two clear waters to which just enough vinegarto taste has been added, the latter to brighten the color, then stiffenin cool starch and hang in the shade. When washing delicate coloredfabrics a tablespoon of ox gall may be substituted for the salt. 

STOCKINGS

Last come the stockings, which should be washed in clean water, firston the right side, then on the wrong, special care being bestowed uponthe feet. Rinse in clear water, with a final rinsing in hot water tosoften the fiber, and hang on the line wrong side out, toes up. Woolenstockings are washed in the same way as flannels. 

DAINTY LAUNDERING

The dainty task of laundering centerpieces and doilies usually devolvesupon their owner, unless the laundress has demonstrated her ability tocleanse and iron them properly. Wash in warm Ivory or Castilesoapsuds, squeezing, dipping, and rubbing between the hands untilclean, rinse thoroughly--otherwise the soap will yellow--bluing thelast rinsing water very slightly, squeeze out (never wring) as muchmoisture as possible, and hang on the line, in the shade if out ofdoors. While still very damp lay face down on a thick flannel padcovered with a white cloth, and iron till dry. If the piece is largeit can be turned and ironed lightly on the right side where there is noembroidery. Colored embroideries must never be sprinkled and rolled. Iron the linen of large lace-trimmed centerpieces, then lay on a bed orother flat surface, and stretch the lace by carefully pinning down eachpoint. 

The cleansing of laces is best accomplished by basting on strips ofcheesecloth, fastening down each point, and soaking for some time inwarm, soapy water. Squeeze out and put into fresh soapy water, repeating the process until the lace is perfectly clean, then rinse inclear boras water--four teaspoonfuls to one pint. Place thecheesecloth, lace down, on a flannel or other soft pad, and iron untildry. 

HOW TO WASH SILK

Put white and light-colored silks and pongees through strong, tepidwhite soapsuds, then through a second weaker suds, rinse, press out thewater with the hands, shake out all wrinkles, spread on a clean sheet, and roll tight. Cover with a cheesecloth and iron while still dampwith a not too hot iron. No portion of silk should be allowed to drybefore ironing. If this occurs do not sprinkle, but dampen by rollingin a wet cloth. In laundering pure white silk, slightly blue therinsing water. A slight firmness can be imparted to any silk by theaddition of one teaspoon of gum arabic to each pint of the rinsingwater. Silk hose are laundered just as other silk, except that insteadof being rolled they must be dried as quickly as possible and ironedunder a damp cloth. 

WASHING BLANKETS

Do not allow blankets to become very much soiled before laundering, When this becomes necessary, put to soak for fifteen minutes in plainwarm water--soft, if possible. Then prepare a jelly with one pound ofsoap to each blanket, and boiling water, pour into a tub of warm waterand lather well, wring the blankets from the soaking water into thisand let soak for ten minutes, then rub between the hands, bit by bit, until as clean as possible, wring into the first rinsing water, whichshould be just warm, then rinse a second time in tepid water, and drywell without exposing to great heat. Instead of being hung, blanketscan be dried on curtain stretchers. When dry rub with a piece of roughflannel; this makes them fluffy and soft. 

WASHING CURTAINS

Curtains and draperies should be shaken and brushed free from all thedust possible, before washing. Lace curtains, and especially thosewhich are very fine or much worn, need dainty and careful handling. Soak for an hour or two in warm water containing a little borax, thensqueeze out the water and drop into a boiler half filled with coldwater to which have been added one half bar of soap, shaved thin, twotablespoonfuls of ammonia, and one of turpentine. Bring to a boil andlet stand at the boiling point, without boiling, for half an hour, stirring occasionally with the clothes stick, rinse thoroughly, starchwell with thick boiled starch, and stretch on frames to dry. If framesare not available, pin to a carpet which has been smoothly spread witha clean sheet. When a pure white is desired, add a little bluing tothe starch water. Water tinted with coffee will produce an écrueffect, while tea will give a more decided hue. Muslin curtains arelaundered like any other fine white goods. 

TIDYING UP AND SPRINKLING

The last article being hung on the line, each implement used in theprocess of washing must be cleaned, dried, and put in its place, thelaundry floor scrubbed, and everything made spick and span; then comesthe sprinkling and rolling of the piles of snowy, sweet-smelling linen, all full of fresh air and sunshine, to make a little rest time afterthe vigorous exercise which precedes it. It must be done with care asmuch depends upon it. Table linen, unless taken from the line whilestill moist, should be sprinkled very damp, folded evenly, rolled andwrapped in a white cloth, and placed in the clothes basket, which hasbeen previously lined with an old sheet. Bed linen and towels requirevery little dampening; they, too, to be rolled and placed with thetable linen. Sprinkle body linen well, particularly the lace andembroidery trimmings, roll tight, wrap, and add to the growing pile inthe basket. The kitchen towels which have just come from the line maybe utilized for wrapping purposes. Handkerchiefs receive the sametreatment as napkins in sprinkling, folding, and ironing. Althougheverything irons more easily after being rolled for some time, thusevenly distributing the dampness, an exception must be made of coloredclothing, which must not be sprinkled more than half an hour before itis ironed. When the sprinkling is all done, cover the basket with adamp cloth, then with a dry one, and leave till ironing time. If acoal range is in use, see that the fire is burning steadily, replenishing from time to time, first on one side, then on the other, brush off the top of the stove, wipe the irons, and put on to heat. Ifthey heat slowly, invert a large dish pan over them. 

CARE OF IRONS

When not in use, irons can be protected from dampness and resultingrust by covering with mutton fat or paraffine, rubbed on while slightlywarm. It is easily removed when the irons are wanted for use. Rustspots can be removed by applying olive oil, leaving for a few days, andthen rubbing over with unslaked lime. Scrub with soap and water, rinse, dry, rub with beeswax, and wipe off with a clean cloth. Thesoap and water treatment, followed by a vigorous rubbing on brick-dust, should be given frequently, irrespective of rust. Irons must neitherbe allowed to become red-hot nor to stand on the range between usings, or roughness will result. When not in use, stand on end on a shelf. Rubbing first with beeswax and then with a clean cloth will prevent theirons from sticking to the starched things. 

HOW TO IRON

Before beginning to iron have everything in readiness--beeswax, a heavypaper on which to test the iron, a dish of water, and a soft cloth or asmall sponge for dampening surfaces which have become too dry to ironwell, or which have been poorly ironed and need doing over. Stand theironing table in the best light which can be found, with the ironingstand at the right and the clothes at the left, and work as rapidly asconsistent with good results. There is no royal road to ironing, butwith perseverance and care the home laundress can become quite expert, even though she cannot hope to compete with the work turned out bythose who do nothing but iron six days in the week. Give the iron agood, steady pressure, lifting from the board as little as possible, and then--iron! Take the bed linen first, giving a little extra pressto the hems of the sheets. Many housewives have a theory that unironedsheets are the more hygienic; that ironing destroys the life andfreshness imparted by the sun and air. Such being the case, the sheetscan be evenly and carefully folded and put through the wringer, whichwill give them a certain smoothness. Towels may be treated in the sameway, while flannels, knit wear, and stockings may, if one chooses, befolded and put away unironed. Table linen must be smoothed over on thewrong side till partially dry, and then ironed rapidly, with good hotirons and strong pressure on the right side, lengthwise and parallelwith the selvage, until dry. This brings out the pattern and imparts asatiny gloss to the fabric, leaving it dainty, soft, and immaculate. Iron all embroideries on the wrong side. Trimmings and ruffles must beironed before doing the body of the garment, going well up into thegathers with a light, pointed iron, carefully avoiding pressing inwrinkles or unexpected pleats. Iron frills, either plain or with anarrow edge, on the right side to give the necessary gloss. Bands, hems, and all double parts must be ironed on both sides. Iron coloredclothes--lawns, dimities, percales, chambrays, etc. --on the wrong side, with an iron not too hot, otherwise the color is apt to be injured. The home laundress is usually not quite equal to the task of ironingshirts, which would far better go to the laundry; but when done at homefrom choice or necessity, plenty of patience and muscle must beapplied. Iron the body of the shirt first, then draw the bosom tightlyover a board and attack it with the regular irons, wipe over quicklywith a damp cloth and press hard with the polishing iron. The ironingof very stiffly starched articles may be facilitated by covering withcheesecloth and pressing until partially dry; then remove the cloth andiron dry. As each piece is ironed, hang on bars or line untilthoroughly dried and aired. A certain amount of moisture remains; evenafter the ironing, and must be entirely removed before the finalsorting and folding and putting away. 

And so the wash-day drama comes to an end. We survey with pride andcomplaisance the piles of clean linen, shining with spotless elegance, and as we read therein a whole sermon on the "Gospel of Cleanliness, "we conclude that it is decidedly worth while, and rejoice thatfifty-two times a year this is a "washing-day world. "

CHAPTER VIII

TABLE FURNISHINGS

The mistress no doubt has a housewifely taste for receipts, and may, perhaps, find the following formula of service to her in herhome-making:

DINING-ROOM CHEER

One set of fine, spotless table linen sprinkled--not too thickly--withpretty glass, china, and silver, and well lightened with brightnesstempered to the right consistency not to dazzle. To this add a fewsunny faces, some good conversation spiced with gayety--theunpalatable, distasteful portions having been previously eliminated. Then quietly and by degrees add food which has been carefully anddaintily prepared and arranged. Over all scatter little flecks ofkindliness and courtesy till an inward glow is produced, and keep atthis point from half an hour to an hour, or longer. 

This receipt may be depended upon to give satisfaction under any andall conditions, and is compounded of ingredients which exemplary homemakers have always at hand. If conscientiously followed failure isimpossible. "Its use is a good habit. "

STOCKING THE CHINA CUPBOARD

Of its component parts the more substantial ones are perhaps the mosteasily acquired; not in hit-or-miss, anything-to-get-it-done fashion, but with a view to carrying out some definite idea of table adornment, which is quite the most charming part of the home building. Dishes aremore or less mixed up with poesy, which is full of "flowing bowls, ""enchanted cups, " "dishes for the gods, " "flagons of ale, " and otherappetizing suggestions; and it would be rather a good thing to keep thepoetry in mind during the fitting out, that there may be nothingaggressively cheap nor loudly assertive, but each piece harmoniouslycongenial to its fellows. There need be no hurry--that is one of thedelights o' it--and the shopping may mean only "looking, " for the goodbuyer believes that many dishes are to be examined but few chosen--ameat set here, a salad set there, a piece of cut glass somewhereelse--here a little and there a little, with time to get acquaintedwith and enjoy each added treasure as it comes. It is a rareexperience, this stocking the china cupboard; one likely to beprolonged through one's entire housekeeping experience, thanks be!

THE GROUNDWORK

There is so much exquisitely patterned and inexpensive china, glass, and porcelain turned out these days that one cannot wander very farafield in buying unless she gets lost among the intricacies ofcastors--pickle and otherwise--ironstone china, colored and imitationcut glass, and butter dishes with domelike covers. Probably thepersons who invented these have gone to join hands with the perpetratorof the red tablecloth. May their works soon follow them! Completesets of dishes are giving way to the character and diversity impartedto the table by odd pieces and sets for different courses. However, apretty, inexpensive set of porcelain or china--something which willbear acquaintance, and of some easily replaced standard pattern--is agood beginning, for one rarely starts out with a full equipment of finechina, and even so, there should be something stronger to bear theheaviest brunt of wear. All complete sets contain one hundred andseven pieces, and include one dozen each of dinner, breakfast, tea, soup, and butter plates, and cups and saucers of medium size, threeplatters of various sizes, vegetable dishes, covered and coverless, anda gravy boat. Tureen, sugar bowl, and cream pitcher, and after-dinnercoffees are not included, but may be ordered extra. 

The choice in everyday sets lies between plain white--preferably theFrench china, known as Haviland, which can be bought for $35--and theblue-and-white English porcelain of different makes--Copeland, Trenton, etc. , a desirable set of which costs $15 and higher. All-white isentirely blameless from the standpoint of good taste, and has a daintyfineness in the Haviland of which one rarely tires, while it neverclashes with anything else on the table. It is so infinitelypreferable to cheap, gaudy decorations, so sincerely and honestly whatit seems to be, that it has a certain self-respecting quality which onecannot help but admire. Blue-and-white has an attraction which hasnever died since it had its birth in the original Delft, which iscopied so extensively now in Japan and China. And though the porcelainis but an imitation, it is a clever one, and one which leaves little tobe desired in decorative value and general effect. The design maystrike one at first as being a little heavy, but it improves onacquaintance, and it has been very aptly said that the fact of itshaving survived enthusiasm should vouch for its worth. Porcelain has agood glaze which does not readily crack or break. Advancing in thescale of cost and fineness, we come to that most beautiful of allchinas--the gold-and-white--which can be had at from $50 a set up to ashigh as $1, 500. The gilding is in coin gold, the effect of richnesstempered with chastity being carried through all grades in varyingintensity. It "expresses itself beyond expression, " and is an honor toany table. 

COURSE SETS

When it comes to the purchase of course sets, different tastes can findinstant gratification in numberless colorings and designs. Overdecoration and large floral devices must be avoided, but anydelicately expressed pattern is good, and here again the gold-and-whiteseems to fulfill all demands. Soup, salad, tea, butter, and otherplates can be had in china from 30 cents apiece up. Articles of thiskind, in a standard pattern, may be bought one or two at a time, andadded to as ability permits until the set is completed. Any unusualdesign runs through two years, after which it can be obtained only fromthe factory. A dozen of each is a good number to aim at, for therewill be many occasions which will call out one's whole dish brigade andkeep it actively engaged. The old joke about having to wash dishesbetween courses, and sending the ice cream afloat on a warm plate, really loses its amusing aspect when it becomes an actual experience. Unless the mistress prefers to serve her soup at the table, a tureen isnot a necessity, but if used, it must match the soup plates. It is asomewhat fluctuating fashion, out at present. Soup plates are not thegreat flaring affairs of yore. They either follow the old shape, muchreduced, or are in the nature of a large sauce dish. The meat set ofplatters, plates, and vegetable dishes comes into play at all meals, tea plates can be put to a variety of uses--in fact, many dishessupplement one another at a saving of expense and numbers. If one hasa handsome glass bowl sufficiently large, a special salad bowl is notan essential, but a china bowl demands plates to match. Hand-paintedchina, in sets or odd pieces, is pretty--sometimes--if artisticallydesigned and perfectly executed, but a little goes a long way. Don'tbe the innocent victim of some well-meaning relative with thechina-painting bee. Gently but firmly refuse to sacrifice the beautyof your table to family ties; they ought to be able to stand thestrain, but your table cannot. 

ODD PIECES

Japanese and Chinese ware is steadily gaining in favor--anotherinstance in which imitation is permissible, for the "real thing" isundoubtedly costly. The quaint conceits in creams and sugars, chocolate pots, bonbon dishes, and plates, with their storks andchrysanthemums, their almond-eyed damsels and mandarins, are alwaysinteresting. The fad of odd cups and saucers is fast developing into afixed fashion, and a good one, which is a particular boon to the giverof gifts on Christmas and other anniversaries when "presents endearabsents. " Pretty styles in all sizes of different French, German, andEnglish makes can be found at 50 cents and up, with special reductionsat sale times. Larger plates, to accommodate both the slice of breadand the butter ball, have taken the place of the tiny butter plate, andshould properly match the meat set. A touch of gold with any chinadecoration gives it a certain character and richness. The chopplatter--among the nice-to-haves and bought as an odd piece--belongs inthe lightning change category, for it may serve us our chops and peasduring the first course, our molded jelly salad during the second, andour brick of ice cream or other dessert during the third. The range inprice is from $1 up to $5 and $6 for the choicest designs. Then thereare berry sets of a bowl and six saucers, both being turned to accountfor different uses, and costing in Haviland as low as $1. 75. And theremust be some small bowls or large sauce dishes for breakfast use, ifour housewife is cereally inclined, and a china tile or two on littlelegs to go under the coffee and tea pots. The china pudding dish, withits tray and its heat-proof baking pan, is a pretty and convenientaccessory, saving the bother of veiling the crackled complexion of theordinary baking dish with a napkin, These cannot be had for less than$3. 50 and are made in silver also, minus the tray and plus a cover. The teapot, true symbol of hospitality, has come down from the highestate to which it was formerly created, and is a fat, squatty affairnow. Dainty sets of teapot, cream, and sugar matching--a nobby littleoutfit--are to be had for $2, in gold-and-white, $3, etc. There areafter-dinner coffee sets, too. Needless to say there must not be eventhe slightest acquaintance between fine china or porcelain and the hotoven if you value their glaze. 

[Illustration: Wedgwood pottery, and silver of antique design. ]

SILVER AND PLATE

Of the purchase of silver there is little to say. Unless her friendshave been very generous in their gifts of solid ware, the mistressusually acquires it a little at a time, contenting herself with theplated for general use. Here the souvenir fork or spoon frequentlysteps into the breach, but in default of any other, good shining platedware presents just as good an appearance as the solid and serves everypurpose until the plate begins to show wear, when it should be renewedwithout delay. The plainer the pattern the better. Medium-sizedknives and forks of the best Rogers triple plate sell for $7 a dozen, teas for 10 cents less, fruit knives for $3. Teaspoons in the daintySeville pattern, with only a beaded trimming around the handle, are $4a dozen, dessert spoons $3. 25 a half dozen, and tablespoons $3. 75. Agravy ladle costs $1. 25. The infinite variety of odd forks and spoonsfor various uses is best acquired with the other solid silver. Platedware ought never to serve acids nor top salt shakers, since both acid, and salt when damp, corrode the plating. Solid salt and pepper shakerscan be had as low as $1 a pair, cut glass with solid tops for $1 and$1. 50. If individual salt dishes are used, they must be accompanied bytiny solid salt spoons at 35 cents apiece and up. Very nice though notaltogether necessary accompaniments of the bread-and-butter plates arethe individual butter knives at $10 a dozen. 

If steel-bladed knives are preferred to silver, the medium size, withcomposition handles of celluloid and rubber, are $4. 50 a dozen, withaccompanying forks with silver-plated tines at $7. 50. The carvingknife, broad, long, and strong, with its fork, good steel both, can behad for $2. 75, with a game knife, its blade short and pointed and itshandle long, with its fork, $2. 50. 

GLASS

Cut glass is another of the can-do-withouts, except, perhaps, thecarafe, now used instead of the old-fashioned water pitcher, at $3, $3. 50, etc. ; cruets for vinegar and oil, simply cut and in good style, for as low as $1. 50 each; and the finger bowls, one for each person. The last, of thin crystal and perfectly plain save for a sunburst ofcutting underneath, are $3 a dozen, with others more elaborate, andcostly in proportion. Tumblers, thin, dainty, and delightful, cut alittle at the bottom, are $1. 50 a dozen, and far pleasanter to drinkfrom than their elaborately cut and artistic brethren. Occasionally apretty little olive dish can be picked up for as low as $1. 50 or $2, but rather perfect and inoffensive plainness than imitation cut, cheap, crude, and clumsy. The American cut glass is considered the choicest. Side by side with it, and preferred by many as being less ostentatious, is the beautiful Bohemian glass, with its exquisite traceries in goldand delicate colors. Only in this glass is color permissible, and thenprincipally in receptacles for flowers. There is reason to believethat it was from a Bohemian glass plate the King of Hearts stole thetarts on a certain memorable occasion, and if so, one can readilyunderstand why the temptation was so irresistible to him. 

[Illustration: A collection of eighteenth-century cut glass. ]

ARRANGEMENT

To put all our pretty things on the table in such a way that the resultshall be a picture of daintiness, grace, and symmetry is seemingly asimple matter, but the trick of good taste and a mathematical eye areboth involved in it. The manner of setting and serving the tablevaries somewhat with each meal, but a few suggestions apply to allalike. The center of the table must be exactly under the chandelier, and covered with the pretty centerpiece with its dish of ferns, a vaseof posies, or a potted plant in a white crinkled tissue-paper pinafore. Nothing else has the decorative value of the table posy, howeversimple, which seems to breathe out some of its outdoor life andfreshness, and should never be omitted. Twenty inches must be allowedfor each cover, or place, to give elbow room, and all that belongs toit should be accurately and evenly placed. At the right go theknives--sharp edges in--and spoons, with open bowls up, in the order inwhich they are to be used, beginning at the right. At the points ofthe knives stands the water glass. At the left are arranged the forks, tines up, also in the order of use, beginning at the left, with thebutter plate, on which rests the butter knife, a little above theforks. The napkin--which should be folded four times in ironing andnever tortured into fantastic shapes, restaurant fashion--lies eitherat the left of the forks or on the plate at the center of the cover. If many spoons are to be used, the soup spoon alone rests beside theknife, with the others above the plate. Individual salt cellars goabove the plates, shakers at the sides or corners of the table, withineasy reach, and one carafe is usually allowed for every three or fourpeople. Carving cloths are laid before the plates are put on, with thecarving knife at the right, the fork at the left. Water is poured, butter passed, and bread arranged on the table just before the meal isserved. Extra dishes and the plates for use during the differentcourses stand in readiness on a little side table, silver and glassalone being appropriate to the sideboard. 

DUTIES OF THE WAITRESS

The maid stands behind the master or mistress to serve the plate ofmeat, the bowl of soup, and so on, taking it on her tray and placing itwith her right hand from the right of the person served. All platesare placed by the waitress, while she serves all vegetables, sauces, etc. , from the left, holding the dish on her tray or, if it be a heavyone, in her hand, within easy reach. Soiled dishes she removes fromthe right with her right hand, placing them on her tray one at a time, platter and serving dishes first, then individual dishes and silveruntil everything belonging to the course has been removed. Crumbs aretaken up from the left with a crumb knife or napkin, never with abrush. Many housekeepers prefer to dismiss the maid after the mainpart of the meal is served, ringing for her when her services arenecessary, thus insuring a greater privacy during the charmed hour, andaffording an opportunity for those little thoughtful attentions wheneach serves his neighbor as himself. 

THE BREAKFAST TABLE

The breakfast table is usually laid with centerpiece and plate doiliesthese days, and it may not be ill-timed to suggest that every effort bemade to have this meal cheery and attractive, for it is, alas, toooften suggestive of funeral baked meats and left-over megrims from thenight before. If fruit is to be served, followed by a cereal and ameat or other heavier course, each place is provided with a fruit platewith its doily and knife, a breakfast knife and fork, a dessert spoon, two teaspoons, and a finger bowl. The fruit should be on the tablewhen the family assemble, with the cups and saucers and otheraccompaniments of the coffee service arranged before the mistress'splace. Warm sauce dishes for the cereal and warm plates for the coursewhich follows it must be in readiness. 

LUNCHEON

Luncheon is the simplest, daintiest, most informal meal of theday--just a little halting place between breakfast and dinner, whereone's pretty china comes out strongly. The setting of the doily-spreadtable follows the usual arrangement. Everything necessary for servingtea is placed at the head of the table, with the meat or othersubstantial dish at the opposite end. Most of the food is placed onthe table before the meal is announced, and as there are usually buttwo courses the plates are changed only once. The only differencebetween luncheon and tea being the hour of serving, the same rulesgovern both. The lunch cloth or the hemstitched linen strips may beused instead of the place doilies. 

DINNER

Dinner is a more solemn matter. On goes our immaculate tablecloth now, over a thick pad, its one crease exactly in the middle of the table, and all wrinkles and unevennesses made smooth and straight. Centerpiece and posy go squarely--or roundly--in the center, withsilver, salts, and carving set arranged as usual. The butter plate isfrequently omitted from this meal, an oblong slice of bread, a dinnerroll, or a bread stick being placed between the folds of each napkin, or on the butter plate, if used, with the butter ball and knife. Ifsoup is to be served, the spoon is placed at the right of the knives. There is a preference for the use of a "service plate" at thismeal--the plate which is at each place when dinner is announced, and isnot removed until the first hot course after the soup--but this isusually dispensed with when there is but one servant. Proper cutleryfor carving has its place before the carver, the carving cloth beingremoved before dessert. If black coffee is served as the last course, the after-dinner coffee spoons are placed in the saucers beforeserving. Finger bowls appear the last thing. 

THE FORMAL DINNER

The formal dinner follows the general idea and arrangement of thefamily dinner, with considerable elaboration. Out come our dress-uptable linen, china, glass, and silver, and we add certain festivetouches in the way of vines and cut flowers loosely and gracefullydisposed in glass or silver bowls and vases. At the four sides of thecenterpiece go the dainty glass candlesticks, which cost 35 centsapiece, coming up to 91 cents with the candle lamp, candle, micachimney, and shade complete, the shade matching the flowers in color. The lesser light which thus rules the night casts a witching glamourover the table, shadowing imperfections, softening features, warmingheart cockles, and loosening tongues. Yellow is always good, greencool in summer, red heavy, and pink of the right shades genial. Laceand ribbon have been banished from the table as being inconsistent withsimplicity, but a small bunch of flowers or a single flower at eachplace gives a pretty touch. The water glass is moved over to the topof the plate now, to make room for the wine glasses which are groupedabove the knives. The oyster fork is placed at the right of the soupspoon, the fish fork at the left of the other forks. Overmuch silversavors of ostentation; therefore, if many courses are to be served, thesherbet spoon may go above the plate, the other extra silver to besupplied from the side table when needed. Fancy dishes containingolives, salted nuts, and confections are arranged on the table, allother dishes being served from the kitchen or side table. It beingtaken for granted that the food is properly seasoned, no condiments areon the table. Place cards rest on the napkins. 

THE FORMAL LUNCHEON

The formal luncheon table closely follows the formal dinner table, except that place doilies are used instead of the tablecloth. Thebouillon spoon replaces the soup spoon, and other changes in the silvermay be necessitated by the lighter character of the food served. Theroom may be darkened and candles used if the hostess so elect. Ifadditional light is required at either dinner or luncheon, it shouldcome through shades harmonizing with the candle shades, and hung nothigher than the heads of the guests. 

WASHING GLASS

And after this, the deluge--of dishwashing! The cleansing of the glassopens the session. If much fine or heavily cut glass is to be washed, cover the draining board and the bottom of the pan with a soft, foldedcloth. Wash one piece at a time in water not too hot--about threequarts of cold water to one of boiling, to which a _very_ little whitesoap, with a tablespoon of ammonia, has been added--going well into thecuttings with a brush; then rinse in water a little hotter than thefirst, leave for a moment, and turn upside down on the board to drainuntil the next piece is ready. Then dry with a soft towel, or plungeinto a box of nonresinous sawdust, better warm, which absorbs moisturenot reached by the cloth. Remove from the sawdust, brush carefully, and polish with a soft cloth. If kept free from dust, sawdust can bedried and used indefinitely. Care must be taken that there is no sandin dishpan or cloth to give the glass a scratch which may end in acrack or break. Put a spoonful of finely chopped raw potatoes, orcrushed eggshells, or half a dozen buckshot into decanters, carafes, jugs, and narrow-mouthed pitchers, with a little warm soda or ammoniawater, and shake vigorously till all stain is removed, rinse and dry. The water in which glass is washed must be kept absolutely free fromgreasy substances. If milk, ice cream, or custard has been used, rinseoff with cold, then blood-warm water before washing. Cut glass mustnever be subjected to marked differences in temperature, and for thisreason should not be held under the faucets, as the heat cannot beregulated. Glass with gilt decoration must be washed quickly andcarefully with water free from either soda or ammonia, which attack thegilt, and dried gently. 

WASHING AND CLEANING SILVER

The silver comes next, careful washing obviating the necessity forcleaning oftener than once a month. Knives, forks, and spoons, whichwere separated into piles when taken from the table, are washed first, then the other pieces in use, in hot white soapsuds with a littleammonia, rinsed with clear scalding water, dried with a soft towel, oneat a time, and rubbed vigorously, when all are done, with chamois orCanton flannel. Egg or vegetable stains can be removed with wet salt, black marks with ammonia and whiting. Only enough silver to supply thefamily use is kept out; the handsome jelly bowls, cream jugs, etc. , arewrapped in white tissue paper, placed with a small piece of gum camphorin labeled Canton flannel bags, closing with double draw strings, andare then locked away in a trunk or a flannel-lined box with aclose-fitting lid. If put away clean and bright, as they should be, they retain their luster and only need polishing once a year. When theregular silver-cleaning day comes around, wash and dry the silver inthe prescribed way, and rub with sifted whiting wet with alcohol, leaving no part untouched, and allow to dry on. When all the pieceshave been treated thus, rub with a flannel cloth and polish with asilver brush. Regular brushes are made for this purpose and areinvaluable in getting into the ornamental work. Never make the mistakeof applying a tooth or nail brush, which will surely scratch and marthe fine surface. Most silver polishes are made of chalk prepared indifferent ways, but beware of the one which cleans too quickly: it isliable to remove the silver with the tarnish. Silver must not beallowed to become badly stained, thus necessitating hard rubbing andadditional wear and tear. 

HOW TO WASH CHINA

China washing requires a pan nearly full of water of a temperature notuncomfortable to the hand, beaten into a good suds with a soap shaker. Very hot water, or a sudden change from cold to hot, is apt to crackthe fine glaze. Use a dish mop for the cleanest dishes, and, beginningwith the cups and saucers, and placing only a few in the pan at a time, wash quickly without allowing to soak, rinse in water a little hotterthan the first, and wipe until perfectly dry and shiny. Pouring hotwater over china and leaving it to drain itself dry may save time, butit will be at the expense of the polish. Spread the dishes out on thetable to cool--piling them while hot injures the glaze--and put awaythe first washing before commencing on the heavy, greasy things. Thewashing water must be changed as soon as a greasy scum collects aroundthe sides of the pan. 

CARE OF KNIVES

Bone-, wood-, or pearl-handled knives should never go into the dishpan, but be stood, blade down, in a pitcher containing a little water andsoda, the blades having first been wiped off with paper, and left tilleverything else is done. They are then washed singly with clean suds, special care being bestowed upon the juncture of the blade with thehandle, rinsed, and dried immediately. If stained, rub with half of apotato or with a cork dipped in powdered pumice stone, wipe dry, wash, and polish with a little bath brick or sapolio. Clean carving knivesand forks in the same way, going around the joinings with a rag-coveredskewer. Spots can be removed from ivory handles with tripoli mixedwith sweet oil; from mother-of-pearl with sifted whiting and alcohol, which is washed off and followed with a polishing with dry whiting anda flannel cloth. Cover rusted knife blades with sweet oil, rub inwell, and leave for forty-eight hours, then rub with slaked lime. Britannia, pewter, and block tin in table use are polished the same assilver. 

CHAPTER IX

THE BEDROOM

The bedroom is very like an old familiar friend: it sees us as wereally are, tempting us to throw off all veneer of pretense orworldliness and rest in just being ourselves--a rest so sweet andwholesome and good that we go from it recreated and strengthened. Inthe spirit of truest friendship it exacts nothing, but by its subtle, quiet sympathy charms away our restlessness and presents us anew tothat person known as our better self. The friend of our choice is theone who wears well; who never intrudes, never wearies, never pains us;whose influence is one of rest, of restoration, of reinspiration--theembodiment of the true mission of the bedroom. It, like our friend, must be able to survive with honor the test of that familiarity whichcomes with intimacy--whether it shall breed contempt or content. Andso as we plan it, let us endeavor to temper our likes and dislikes withjudgment until we can be reasonably sure that it will be a roompleasant to live with, and companionable, which will not irritate ourmoods into becoming moodier, nor our weariness into becoming wearier. 

LIGHT AND AIR

Of first importance, of course, are light and air; these we must have, and sun if possible. One good warm ray of sunshine is a more effectivedestroyer of disease and "dumps" than all the drugs on the market;while good ventilation is one of the most valuable as well as one ofthe cheapest and most ignored assets of the home, particularly of thebedroom, where our hereditary enemy, the microbe, loves especially tolinger. Given air and light, we have the best possible start towardour rest room and upon its exposure and size depends largely what weshall add unto it in the way of furnishings and decorations. Darkwalls and floors wrap one in gloom and have no place in any bedroom. Awarm, sunny exposure invites the use of contrastingly cool light blues, grays, greens, and creams; while the glow of delicate pinks and yellowshelps to make a sunshine in the shadows of a north light. East andwest lights adapt themselves to the tasteful use of almost any color, saving and excepting red, which cannot be mentioned in the same breathwith rest and has the red-rag-to-the-bull effect on nerves. If anoverstrong affection for it demands its use, it must be indulged insparingly and much scattered and tempered with white. Though a certainsympathetic warmth should be expressed in the bedroom coloring, we wantrather to feel than to see it, and too much becomes a weariness. 

CARPETS VERSUS RUGS

Beginning with the base, as becomes a good builder, and working upward, floor coverings which cover without covering, if one may indulge in anIrishism, are far preferable to those which extend from wall to wall. Carpets undoubtedly have their uses: they make over well into rugs, supply heat to the feet, particularly in summer, and to the dispositionduring the semiannual house cleaning. They also cover a multitude ofmoths. But they belong to the dark ages of unenlightened womanhoodwhose chief end was to keep house, and have been jostled into thebackground by bare floors or mattings, with rugs. Hardwood floorscertainly are nice and seem to wear an air of conscious pride of birth, but their humbler self-made brethren of common pine, stained andvarnished or oiled, answer the purpose fully as well. It reallyamounts to a case of rugs make the floor, for if they are pretty andconveniently disposed about it, the floor itself receives very littleattention. Small rugs before bed, dresser, and chiffonier will sufficein a small room, and can be easily taken out and cleaned, but a morecommodious room requires the dressed look imparted by the larger rug. Whatever its size, avoid large figures and strong colors, choosingrather a small, somewhat indistinct pattern woven in the deeper shadesof the other decorations of the room, at the same time supplying afoundation which, without calling attention to itself, becomes a goodsupport for the general decorative plan--a base strong but neitherheavy nor striking. Since we were made to stand erect and look up, itis irritating to have one's eyes drawn downward by the unattractiveattraction of an ugly rug. The colonial cotton rag rugs are quite themost desirable for bedroom use, from a sanitary as well as an artisticstandpoint, and are woven to produce charming effects. The usualcombination is two colors--white with blue, yellow, green, or pink, black with red, different shades of the same color, etc. Occasionallythree colors are used, but more are apt to destroy the daintysimplicity which is the chief charm of rugs of this kind. They arewoven like any other rag rug, and of any dimensions. 

MATTINGS

Mattings, if preferred to the bare floor, come in a variety of patternsand colors and look neat and fresh, and cool in summer if used withoutrugs. They are a yard wide and range in price from 10 to 50 cents ayard for the Chinese, and from 20 to 60 cents for the Japanese. Thereis very little choice between the two, though the Chinese wears alittle better, perhaps. Matting is easily broken and should not beused where the bed must be drawn away from the wall to be made, orheavy furniture moved about. 

WALL COVERING

Passing from floor to walls, we reach that portion of the room whichgives it its real atmosphere and supplies a background for all that itcontains, of both "things and people. " The bedroom seems to bepreeminently a woman's room: here she reads and writes, rests and sews;it is her help in trouble, her refuge in times of storm. Theintangible something which surrounds the eternal feminine clings abouther room and tells a very truthful tale of the individuality of itsoccupant. Her favorite color peeps out from wall and drapery; herbooks, well-thumbed and hearing evidences of intimate association, liecozily about, and her workbasket reveals the source of certain daintycovers and indescribable nothings which so materially refine the wholeaspect of the room. Though she receives her formal calls in thedrawing-room, it is in her bedroom that those confidential chats, sodear to the feminine heart, take place; therefore its background mustbe chosen with some idea of its becomingness, and the happy medium incolor and tint selected, softening and becoming to all alike. Asabsence of manners is good manners, so absence of effect is, after all, the best effect. First and foremost, avoid the plague of white wallsand ceilings, which cast a ghastly light over the whole room and makeone fairly shiver with cold. The general plan is to shade the color upfrom floor to ceiling, and this is accomplished in so many differingand equally attractive ways that it is impossible to do more than offersuggestions which may be elaborated to suit individual tastes andconditions. Of course calcimine is the simplest and cheapest style ofdecoration, and recommends itself to the anti-germ disciple because itcan be renewed annually at slight expense. The only difficulty lies ingetting just the right tint, for decorators, though no doubt worthy oftheir hire, are not always capable of handling the artistic side oftheir business, and an uncongenial shade gets on the nerves after awhile. The same thing holds true of painted walls and ceilings, thoughthey too are hygienically good. When we come to papers, we are lost ina maze of stripes and garlands and nosegays, either alone or incombination. Prettiness is by no means synonymous with expense thesedays, when the general patterns and colors of costly papers aresuccessfully reproduced in the cheaper grades. Tapestry papers are tooheavy for bedrooms. Those figured with that mathematical precisionwhich drives the beholder to counting and thence to incipient insanity, and others on which we fancy we can trace the features of our friends, are always distracting, especially during illness, when restfulness isso essential. The plain cartridge-papered wall with frieze and ceilingeither flowered or of a light shade of the same or a contrasting coloris never obtrusive and always in good taste. With a flowered wall aplain ceiling is a relief, and vice versa. Figures in both walls andceiling are tiring, besides having none of the effect resulting fromcontrast. Walls in plain stripes need to be livened with a fancyceiling, or ceiling and frieze, with their background always of thelightest tint in the side wall. One room of particular charm was allin yellow. The molding had been dropped three feet from the ceiling, giving the impression of a low ceiling and that snugness which goeswith it, and up to it ran the satin-striped paper, while over friezeand ceiling ran a riot of yellow roses. And here was asserted theingenuity of its occupant, who had cut out some of the roses and drapedthem at the corners and by door and window casings, where they seemedto cling after being spilled from the garden above. This same idea canbe worked out with garlands or bunches of different flowers, bow knots, or other distinct designs. No large figures of any description shouldbe introduced into a small room, and the whole effect of the decorationmust be cheerful without being boisterous, gay, or striking. If theceiling is low, the wall paper continues up to it without a frieze, themolding--which corresponds with the woodwork--being fastened where walland ceiling join. Backgrounds of amber, cream, fawn, rose, blue, orpale green, with their designs in soft contrasting colors, are thestrictly bedroom papers. 

BEDROOM WOODWORK

The very prettiest bedroom woodwork is of white enamel, which has thatlight, airy look we so want to catch, and never quarrels with eitherfurniture or decorations. But of woodwork painted in any color beware, take care! Finely finished hardwood has the honesty of true worth andneeds no dressing up; but its poor relation, that hideous product ofold-time dark stain and varnish is only a kill-beauty, and should bewiped out of existence with a dose of white paint. 

BEDROOM DRAPERIES

In selecting bedroom draperies, two "don'ts" must be strictly observed:don't use flowered drapery with a flowered wall, and don't buy heavy, unwashable hangings of woolen, damask, satin, or brocade, which notonly are out of harmony with the whole idea of bedroom simplicity, butshut out air and sunlight, make the room seem stuffy, and collect andhold dust and odors. The patterns of chintzes, cretonnes, andsilkolenes are manufactured to follow closely the paper designs, andwhere flowered ceiling and frieze are used with a plain wall, the samecolor and design may be carried out in bed and window draperies, and incouch and chair coverings. With a flowered or much-figured wall snowycurtains of Swiss, muslin, or net, with ruffles of lace or of the samematerial, are prettier than anything else; and for that matter, theyare appropriate with any style of decoration and can always be keptfresh and dainty. But elaborate lace curtains which have seen betterdays elsewhere are most emphatically _not_ for bedrooms, and shouldfind another asylum. A pretty window drapery is the thin white curtainwith a colored figured inner curtain. The use of figured draperiesdemands a good sense of proportion and of the eternal fitness ofthings, else it easily degenerates into abuse. 

[Illustration: The bedroom. ]

BEDROOM FURNISHING

The bedroom furniture must be chosen rather with a view to fitness thanto fashion. "Sets" are no more. How stereotyped and assertive theywere, and undecorative! Bed, dresser, and washstand, forciblyrecalling to one the big bear, middle-sized bear, and little bear ofnursery lore, were clumsy and heavy and bad, even in hardwood; but whenthey were simply stained imitations of the real thing, and ornate withwooden knobs, machine carving, and ungraceful lines, they were trulyunspeakable. The bed with its fat bolster, on top of which, like Ossaon Pelion piled, stood the pillows, perhaps covered with shams whichbade one "Good night" and "Good morning" in red cotton embroidery--wasespecially hideous as contrasted with our present-day enameled or brassbed, and belongs to the dark ages of crocheted "tidies, " plush-coveredphotograph albums, "whatnots, " prickly, slippery haircloth furniture, and other household idols which bring thoughts that lie too deep fortears. Only two styles of sets find a welcome in the up-to-datehome--the rich, dark, mellow mahogany, which is too costly for theaverage pocketbook, and the white enameled. Even so the componentparts differ from those of a few years back; then the dresser wasconsidered an absolute essential; now we frequently prefer the moregraceful dressing table, with its small drawer or two for theunornamental toilet accessories, or the compromise between the two--theprincess dresser--with the roomy chest of drawers or chiffonier. Theall-white furniture gives the room an air of chaste purity and is nomore expensive than a set in any other good wood, but must be wellenameled or it will be impossible to keep it clean. 

CAREFUL SELECTION

The trend of popular sentiment is toward the metal bed, withaccompanying furniture in plain or bird's-eye maple, mahogany, darkoak, curly birch, or mahogany-birch. Dressers range in price from $9to $50; princess dressers from $10. 50 to $50; chiffoniers from $10 to$35; and dressing tables from $10 to $50. Furniture, like friends, cannot be acquired promiscuously without unpleasant consequences. There is no economy in buying cheap, veneered pieces which will be--orought to be--always an eyesore. The truly thrifty homemaker will waituntil she can afford to buy something genuinely good, and then buy itwith the conviction that she is laying up treasures of future happinessand contentment. The "good" piece is exactly what it claims to be, without pretense or artificiality, of hardwood of course, of simpleconstruction, and graceful, artistic lines, its few decorations carved, not glued on. 

TOILET AND DRESSING TABLES

Simplicity must be the keynote of all bedroom furnishings. The middlecourse in price is the safe one to follow, leaning toward the greaterrather than toward the lesser cost. If there is a bathroomconveniently near, it is better to dispense with a washstand; but ifits use is imperative, make it as little obtrusive as possible. Thehome carpenter can easily fashion one from a plain pine table, hungwith a valance to match the other draperies. If a marble-topped tableis available, so much the better. Toilet sets can be purchased for $4and up, and should be of simple design and decoration, plain white orgold-and-white being advisable for general use, as neither will clashwith anything else in the room. A very satisfactory set in thegold-and-white is to be had for $8. A dainty dressing table followsthe idea of a makeshift washstand. It should be made of a sizeabledrygoods box, with shelves, and the top padded and covered to match thedrapery. The mirror which hangs over it may be draped, or simplyframed in white enamel, gold, or whatever blends with the room. Overdraping not only looks fussy, but means additional bother and care. The drapery is thrown over a frame fastened above the mirror. 

FURTHER COMFORTS

In addition to what is considered the regulation bedroom furniture, there should be a small table at the head of the bed for the glass ofwater, the candle or night lamp, and books of devotion; a couch for themistress's rest hours, and to save the immaculateness of the bed; acomfortable rocker, with a low sewing chair and one or two withstraight backs; and, when two people occupy the room, a screen whichinsures some degree of privacy and affords a protection from draughts. If one is restricted in closet room, a box couch is a greatconvenience; if in sleeping room, an iron cot or a folding sanitarycouch, which becomes a bed by night, is invaluable. A chintz, cretonne, or other washable cover, with plenty of pretty pillows toinvite indolence, can be used on either, with an afghan or some othersort of pretty "throw. " Though upholstered furniture is out of placehere, chair cushions corresponding with wall paper or draperies give atouch of cozy comfort. One room with dove-gray walls dotted withwhite, and all other furniture of white enamel, had mahogany chairs ofsevere simplicity of design, with backs and seats covered withrose-strewn cretonne which extended in a box-plaited flounce to thefloor. This was the only touch of color, save a water color or two, ina room overflowing with restfulness and that "charm which lulls tosleep. " Willow chairs are pretty and appropriate, too. The screen, with its panels draped in harmony with other hangings, should match thefurniture. The new willow screens are light, dainty, and easily moved. A table, footstool or two, and desk can be added if desired. A greaterlength of mirror than that afforded by the dresser glass can be securedby setting a full-length mirror into the panels of one of the doors--afashion both pretty and convenient. Have a care that all mirrors areof plate glass, for the foreshortened, distorted image which looks backat one from an imperfect looking-glass has a depressing effect on one'svanity. 

THE BEDSTEAD

And now to the _pièce de résistance_ of the room, the

 ". . . Delicious bed! That heaven on earth to the weary head!"

Furnished complete it represents a considerable sum, but here again itis well not to count the cost too closely, for the return in comfortand refreshment cannot be estimated in dollars and cents. The changefrom wooden to metal beds is desirable in every way. Besides being somuch more hygienic, they seem to take up less room, and admit of afreer circulation of air; they can be painted over and freshened upwhen necessary, and look well with any furniture. The best patternsare formed by parallel bars and circles, those with simple liliesconveying the idea of solidity, and with the least ornamentation, beingpreferable always. The extension foot facilitates the arrangement ofspread or valance, and if drapery is desired, beds with head postsfitted with canopy frames or "testers" are to be had. Brass beds arethe most expensive of metal beds, costing from $22 to $55, or as muchmore as one cares to pay. They have to be handled with great care--orrather, not handled at all unless through the medium of a soft cloth. The _vernis Martin_ bed of gilded iron produces the same generaleffect, and is but little more costly than the enamel bed, but, afterall, it is only another "imitation. " Enameled beds can be had for from$2 all the way up to $31. It cannot, of a surety, be necessary to warnagainst those hideous embodiments of bad taste, colored beds, withtheir funereal blacks, lurid reds, and sickly blues, greens, andyellows. Enough said! And avoid too much brass trimming. The bedshould stand on casters--wooden--and not too high. 

SPRING, MATTRESS, AND PILLOWS

Those two friends to nightly comfort, a first-class spring and a hairmattress, are vastly important. If the still, small voice of economywhispers that other mattresses are "just as good, " stifle it. The hairmattress is the only really sanitary one, since it can be washed andmade over and plumped up times without number, and surely no otherenjoys the distinction of descending from generation to generation, with the other family treasures. Hair mattresses cost from $10 up, according to the length of the hair, but a good one of full size cannotbe had under $30. Felt mattresses, from $7. 25 to $13. 50, are next indesirability, the best of these, warranted not to cake, beingpreferable to the cheap hair mattress with short hair. Then come mossmattresses with cotton tops, $4. 70 to $8; husk with cotton tops, $3. 15to $4; and excelsior, cotton-topped, $2 to $4. Mattresses in twounequal parts, the larger going at the head of the bed and the smallerat the foot, are more easily handled and turned than those in onepiece. A slip of heavy white cotton cloth covering the mattressentire, is a great protection, and should be washed at stated intervals. 

Box springs are luxuriously comfortable, an average spring, felt-topped, costing $17--hair-topped, $18. 50. Those topped with towand moss are less expensive. There is only one objection to the boxspring: when the bedbug once effects an entrance therein, the days ofthat spring are numbered, for there is no evicting him. Woven wire andcoil springs run from $2. 25 up, according to the number of coils, wires, and weight. 

Mattress and pillows are covered to match, these days, in all sorts ofcharming colors and designs, if one cares to add a little to the cost. Over the mattress goes a quilted cotton pad, interlined with onethickness of cotton batting. Pads can be made at home, or purchasedfor $1. 25, $1. 50, or $1. 75, according to the size of the bed. Theunbleached cost 25 cents less. Some housekeepers prefer a flannel padas being more porous, and therefore more easily aired. Each bed shouldhave its own pair of white woolen blankets, an average pair costingabout $5, but a really "worth-while" one is scarcely obtainable under$12 or $15. A little cotton mixed with the wool is not objectionable, as it prevents so much of the shrinkage to which wool is liable. Heavyand uncomfortable "comforts, " which supply in weight what they lack inwarmth, are neither desirable nor healthful. Folded across the foot ofthe bed should lie the extra covering for cold nights, either aneiderdown or less costly quilt, daintily covered with cheesecloth, silkolene, etc. 

Two night pillows to a bed are the usual allowance. Good live-goosefeather pillows sell for from $3 to $7, depending on the size, andshould be provided with extra cotton slips, buttoning on, to protectthe tick. The feather bolster has had its day. Its descendant, thebedroll of hair, paste-board, or _papier maché_, is for ornament only, and is used as a finish at the head of the bed with fancy draperies orcoverings, which it matches. Shams, too, are going out, with otherthings which are not what they seem. The thought of untidiness alwaysunderlies their freshness, and so we prefer to put the night pillows inthe closet during the day and let the bedroll or the day pillows taketheir place. If there is a shortage of pillows, the night cases can beexchanged for pretty ruffled ones of lawn, muslin, dimity, or linen. If one still clings to shams, corresponding sheet shams should also beused. 

BED DECORATION

There remains yet to be found anything more airily, chastely daintythan the all-white bed with its plain or fringed Marseilles spread andits ruffled pillows. Though drapery has a picturesque effect, itinterferes to a certain extent with the free circulation of air, andaffords a lurking place for our insidious enemy--the microbe. If usedat all, it should only be in a large, well-ventilated room, andsparingly, for a fussy, overloaded bed looks anything but restful. Ifconsiderable color has already been introduced into the room, the beddrapery, cover, and valance should be of some thin white washablematerial--dimity, Swiss, and the like. But with plain papers, floweredcretonne, chintz, etc. , are appropriate. The canopy top is coveredwith the material, stretched smooth, and either plain or plaited, andthe drapery gathered about the back, sides, and front of this, fromwhich it hangs in soft folds to within two or three inches of thefloor. It should be simply tied back. The canopy projects not morethan half a yard beyond the head of the bed, and may be either oblongor semicircular. Very thin white material is used over a color. Whatever the material, it must, of course, be washable and keptimmaculate. The newest bed, all enameled and with a bent bar of ironat head and foot, lends itself to a pretty style of drapery, which issimply a plain, fitted white slip-over case for head and foot, finishedwith a valance of the same depth as that of the counterpane, whichleaves no metal visible anywhere about the bed. Pretty Marseillesspreads may be had for $3; cheaper ones in honeycomb follow the samedesigns. The white spread, with a colored thread introduced, mayanswer for the maid's room--never for the mistress's. 

SIMPLICITY

When two persons occupy a room, twin beds furnished exactly alike arepreferable to the double bed. An exclusively man's room demandssomewhat different treatment, though the general principles offurnishing apply to all bedrooms. A man abhors drapery, and usuallyprefers an ascetic simplicity to what he is pleased to term"flub-dubs. " His notions of art are liable to express themselves inpipes, steins, and other masculine bric-a-brac; but whatever his willsand wonts on the furnishing question, his room must show care andattention. 

The rule of elimination is a good one to follow in bedroom pictures; no"rogue's gallery" of photographs, no useless, meaningless, and trivialpictures, but just a madonna or two, perhaps a photographic copy ofsome old master, with a favorite illuminated quotation--something tohelp and quiet and inspire. 

Tables, dresser, and chiffonier should have each its spotless cover ofhemstitched or scalloped linen, or ruffled lawn or Swiss--anything buttowels. They will answer, of course, but we want a little more thanjust answering. 

CARE OF BEDROOM AND BED

Much of the refinement of the bedroom depends upon its daily care. This begins with its airing the first thing in the morning. The bed isstripped of its coverings, which are spread over two chairs placedbefore the open window; the mattress is half turned over, and nightclothes and pillows are placed near the window. The slops are thenemptied, bowl and all toilet articles washed in hot water and dried, pitcher emptied and refilled with fresh water, and soiled towelsreplaced by clean ones. Soiled towels must never be used to clean thecrockery. Cleaning cloths for bedroom use should be kept for thatpurpose alone. Once a week slop receptacles must be scalded with salsoda water and stood in the sun. After an hour the windows may beclosed and the bed made. The first thing is to turn the mattress--endfor end one day, side for side the next--and then comes the pad, andafter it the sheets. The lower one is put on right side up, drawntight, and tucked in smoothly all around; the upper should be wrongside up, drawn well up to the head, and tucked in at the bottom, andthe blankets brought up to within half a yard of the head, with theopen end at the top. When all is straight and even, the upper sheet isturned back smoothly over the blankets and both are tucked snugly in. The counterpane, which was folded and laid aside during the night, thengoes on, and is brought down evenly over the foot and sides of the bed, the bedroll or day pillows are added, and the bed is itself again. OnSaturday the bottom sheet is replaced by the top sheet, which, in turn, is replaced by a clean one, and the pillowcases are changed. Thespread usually needs changing about once a month. The night pillowsare now beaten and put away, and night clothes are hung in the closet. Other articles are put in their places, the dresser top is brushed offand its various contents properly arranged, litter is taken up withdustpan and brush, or carpet-sweeper, and the room is dusted. Openedwindows at night are a foregone conclusion. 

VERMIN AND THEIR EXTERMINATION

Though it seems indelicate to suggest the possibility of a bug in awell-kept, charming chamber, even the best housekeeping is not alwaysproof against feeling "things at night. " Metal beds are ratherinhospitable to bugs, and if carefully examined, with the mattress, once a week, there is small danger of their getting a foothold. Iftraces are discovered, hunt out the bugs and exterminate them ifpossible, and sprinkle bed and mattress with a good, reliable insectpowder; or spray with gasolene, or wood alcohol and corrosivesublimate, and keep the room shut up for a few hours. Baseboard andmoldings should also be treated in this way. If, after repeatingseveral times, this proves ineffectual, smoke out the room withsulphur, first removing all silver and brass articles and winding thosewhich cannot be moved with cloth. Then proceed according to directionsfor fumigating the closet, using a pound of sulphur for a room ofaverage size. If the room has become badly infested, it will be bestto tear off the wall and ceiling paper, and fill all cracks andcrevices with plaster of Paris. Such shreds of self-respect as theseterrors by night may possess cannot long survive such treatment, andthey will soon depart to that country from whose bourne no bug returns. 

CHAPTER X

THE BATHROOM

With the subject of the bathroom before us, it would seem to be inorder to promulgate the only really true theory of bathing. But thisis not a treatise upon hygiene, and the world already has been floodedwith advice on this subject, ranging from the urgings of thoseamphibiously inclined folk who would each day run the whole gamut ofsplash, souse, and scrub, to the theories of the dauntless Chicagodoctor who would put all humanity on a level by abolishing bathingaltogether. So we shall merely discuss the means of making thebathroom attractive and serviceable, trusting to our individual goodsense for its proper use. 

Everyone has heard of the good woman who was showing some friends abouther new home. The bathtub was an object of special pride. "Why, " sheexclaimed, in a glow of enthusiasm, "it's so nice that we can scarcelywait till Saturday night. " We may laugh at her naïveté, but there is agood deal more of the "waiting for Saturday night" proposition than isgood for--some of our neighbors. And, on the other hand, there is moreof the heroic sort of bathing by faithful devotees of cleanliness thanis necessary. 

The persistent spirit will have his bath, if it has to be with bowl andsponge in a cold room. But while most persons are persistentlycleanly, bathing in the interest of healthfulness should be regular, and it should be enjoyable, and it cannot be either unless the bathroomis properly equipped and is ready for service when wanted. Even atsome extra cost, it should be made possible to secure hot waterpromptly, and without agitating the whole household, at any reasonablehour of any day of the week. No family that we ever knew went bankrupton account of the cost of hot water for bathing, and if they did theywould have a pretty valid excuse. 

PLUMBING

The bathroom is the heart of the plumbing problem, and it is notnecessary to declare that the plumbing is the most important feature ofthe house, so far as health is concerned. Did we examine an old house(one of even ten years ago) with a view to purchasing or renting, thecondition of the plumbing would be a first consideration. If it werenot safe and in good order, we should have to make it so, for of courseno one who is mentally competent would take any chances on such amenace to the family welfare. And to repair antiquated plumbing is anungrateful task, while to replace it entirely requires both courage anda willingness to let go of one's money in large wads. 

Now, we want to remember that we shall wish to have our plumbingsatisfactory, not only when the house is new, but ten years later, whenit is not new. To make sure of this, we need first of all to knowsomething of modern methods and equipment. Then we should employ acapable plumber, though he may cost us more than the merely passablesort. Finally, we should supplement good workmanship with the bestmaterials. It may be noted that after the supply houses have evolvedthe best materials, in the sense that the materials are convenient, good to look at, and perfectly sanitary, they add frills anddecorations that bring up the cost to any amount we insist uponspending. But we can get what we really require without paying for thefrills, if we exhibit tolerable ability in the selection of essentials. 

Open plumbing is, of course, the only sort that any self-respectingplumber of these days would consent to put in; if he hints at anythingelse, we may well be suspicious of him. Not only should the plumbingbe where we can see and get at it, but sinks, lavatories, and tubsshould have no inclosures that may retain filth or become water-soaked. 

Sewer gas is not the only evil to be guarded against, but it is thegreatest. It is also the subtlest, for in some of its most deadlyforms it is inodorous, and usually does its work before we becomeconscious of its existence. The poisonous gas is not necessarilygenerated in the sewer, but may be created anywhere in the pipes thatobstructions or uneven surfaces permit filth to accumulate. If, however, the plumbing is modern and of substantial quality to beginwith, has stood all the tests, and is accessible and fairly wellunderstood by at least one member of the household, reasonablevigilance will obviate practically all worry about sewer gas. 

BATHROOM LOCATION AND FURNISHING

Usually the bathroom is placed in a central location on the secondfloor, accessible, if possible, by both rear and front stairways. In asmall house the upper floor is always advisable, as the bathroom shouldbe well retired from the living quarters. Where the space can bespared, there should be a closet, however, on the main floor, or atleast in the basement, where it will be readily accessible from theback part of the house. If the bathtub is popular with the household, it is in constant use, and for this reason the closet is in some casescut off from it, and is reached by a separate door. 

[Illustration: The bathroom. ]

The principal thought being to eliminate anything which will retainwater, tile or rubber flooring is preeminently best for the bathroom. If wood is substituted, it should be oak or maple, thoroughly oiled. Nothing should rest upon the floor to prevent any portion of thesurface from being thoroughly cleaned. A tile wainscoting is almostindispensable. Paper will not stand steam and moisture, and calcimineis scarcely better. Canvas or burlap above a four- or five-footwainscoting makes an attractive combination. All-white is not calledfor, but light tints of green, buff, or terra cotta will give asoftening touch of color without destroying the general effect ofimmaculateness. 

Art glass in the window can scarcely fail to add to the attractivenessof the room. It may be had for from 75 cents to $3. 50 per square foot. A rug is an essential, but it should be of a sort that will not readilyabsorb and retain water. Speaking of the window, it must be observedthat outdoor ventilation, without disturbing privacy, should be madepossible. Often a bathroom becomes quite suffocating, and with weaklypersons the danger of being overcome in a locked room is not to be leftout of consideration. 

THE TUB

The tub may be of enameled iron or of porcelain. The former costs verymuch less and is almost as satisfactory as the latter, though in thecheaper sorts at least the enamel will eventually crack. Of course itcan be reenameled, but in most things for the home there will be enoughof repairing without counting too much upon the ease with which it maybe done. That which will go longest without any repairs is usuallybest. Still, as between the two kinds of tubs, one can scarcely make amistake either way, and the difference in price will govern thedecision of most of us. 

To be consistent in our thought of keeping the floor clear, we shouldhave a bathtub that rests upon legs. It should not, if avoidable, beplaced under the window, and if it can be several inches from the wall, it is more easily cleaned on the outside, and the space next to thewall need not accumulate--or at least retain--soap, towels, and spongesthat elude the grasp of the bather. Tubs come in lengths from four tosix feet, and cost accordingly. The comfort of a six-foot bath topersons of any considerable elongation is always manifest, while afour-foot tub is merely better than a footbath. Where hot water is noton tap in unlimited quantities, five feet is a fair compromise. Inporcelain enameled ware a tub of this size costs from $27 to $60, without fittings. The better-class goods, included in this range, arewarranted not to crack or "craze. " Porcelain prices are almost doublethose mentioned. If we want stripings or pretty flowers or highlyornamented legs for the tub, we will be permitted to pay for them, butthey are scarcely requisites in the bathroom economy. 

Waste and overflow arrangements for the tub must be well looked after. When the master of the household is likely at any time to turn on thewater for a dip and then become absorbed in studying the latestautomobile catalogue, one feels safer to know that the superfluouswater will find a ready outlet through the pipes, rather than thefloors and halls. The same precautions are to be observed with thelavatory, where young America may choose to devote himself to originalexperiments in hydrostatics instead of performing the simple process ofexpeditiously removing the grime from his digits. 

THE LAVATORY

Anything that is all of one piece is likely to prove more lasting thanthe other kinds, in the lavatory. There are various combinations, someof them including handsome marble tops, but basin and top should not beseparate. If the wall is tile, the back that fits to it is notessential; but if the back is used, it should be of a piece with theslab, bowl, and apron, to avoid ugly cracks and breakage. The bracketform is usually regarded as most convenient, as legs are often in theway, unobtrusive looking as they may be. Another method of attachmentis by a concealed wall hanger. The pedestal design is somewhat moreartistic, but additionally expensive not only in the beginning, butafterward in the event of damage. Lavatories in enameled iron costfrom $16 to $75, including fittings and pipes above floor. Some peoplelike running water in their bedrooms, and a private lavatory is certainto be appreciated by visitors. Objection has been made that theintroduction of plumbing into the bedroom affords a new source ofsewer-gas poisoning, but with modern materials and workmanship thisneed not be feared. For the bedroom the supply man will recommend thepedestal arrangement, costing about $50; but less expensive forms mightserve. Of course every additional outlet, such as this, increases thepiping bill and outlay for labor. 

THE CLOSET

So far as the health of the family is concerned, the most importantfeature of the bathroom is the closet. Here it would be simply follyfor us to let any consideration of dollars prompt us to substitute aninferior or out-of-date apparatus for the safe kind. It would bebetter to sell the piano or even to steal the money from the baby'sbank. 

The only safety against sewer gas in the closet is to prevent it (thegas) from entering the house, and to make sure that gas from the waterpipes is given an adequate exit and compelled to make use of it. Theold-style washout closet was a pretty good assurance that the one gaswould get in and that the other could not get out. The siphon closetof recent manufacture seems to be a much more dependable sort ofcontraption, though we need not accept as gospel the makers' assertionthat it is perfection. 

The most reliable way to shut out gas is with water. Even in the oldclosets it was supposed that the outlet pipe would be kept covered withwater, but as one could not see where the water was or was not, thesupposition wasn't always to be regarded as proper material for anaffidavit. Many a person has moped around and growled at the weatheror the cook or anything he could think of to blame, when it was thecheap old plumbing arrangement he hadn't thought of that was at thebottom of his misery. Sometimes, too, we think a little sewer gas ispreferable to the plumber and his bill; but that is a very sillythought indeed. 

The siphon closet not only overflows, but it siphons, or draws out, thecontents of the bowl. This is replaced with clear water, whichcompletely shuts off the outlet pipe. Comparing the actions of the twosystems, we readily see the better cleansing power of the doubleaction, while the seal on the vent pipe is always evident. A goodsiphon closet costs from $30 to $50, and unless we find something stillsafer we would better choose it. 

The low tank is preferable in many ways to the sort that is attached tothe wall near the ceiling. It is more compact, can be installed underwindows or stairways, and looks better. Besides, it is not so noisyand operates with greater ease, with either chain or push button. Theextra cost is slight. 

HOT WATER AND HOW TO GET IT

We have named the essentials for use in a bathroom. But there areother features that add much to its convenience and attractiveness. Some of these need not be purchased at once; in fact, it is betterhere, as elsewhere in the house, to let many things wait upon ademonstration of their need. 

A bathroom without plenty of hot water accessible is not, as we havepreviously hinted, likely to become a popular resort. When the washboiler and the tea kettle have to be heated on the range and brought upin a precarious progress that threatens a scalding for fingers, feet, and floors, to even hint the possibility of the entire household'sinsisting upon a daily hot bath suggests lunacy. But if the hot-watertank is dependent upon the furnace or other house-heating arrangement, summer is likely to find it out of commission, with the chief elementof a good bath obtainable only with much ado. Then some special meansof heating water is required. 

There are many devices, most of them using gas, and disposed to becantankerous late at night when all but the would-be bather haveretired. The gas heaters are placed either in connection with thewater tank in kitchen or basement, or above the tub, the water runningin coils over the heater. These arrangements are speedy andcomparatively economical. They are slightly dangerous, however; notthat they are likely to explode, but from the fact that the gas, particularly if of a poor quality--which is usually the case--rapidlyvitiates the air of the room, and may cause fainting or evensuffocation. If the apparatus is properly adjusted, and one makes sureof the ventilation, heating the water and admitting fresh air beforeentering the tub, no distress need be anticipated. There are alsogasolene and kerosene heaters, and an electric coil placed in the wateris the safest and cleanest but not the quickest or cheapest scheme ofall. Its cost is from $5 to $20. 

None of these heating attachments is sure to prove fully satisfactory, but any one of them is likely to add a great deal to theserviceableness of the bathroom. To many wholesome people one ideal ofliving is to be able to take a dip whenever one wants it, not merelywhen one can get it. 

A seat of wood, in natural finish or white enamel, is a handyappurtenance to the tub. It will cost us 50 or 75 cents at adepartment store, or we can pay four or five times as much for afancier quality at the supply house. 

BATHROOM FITTINGS

Of soap holders there are innumerable designs: nickel plated or rubber. The latter will hardly be chosen. A sort that will come as near as anyto permitting one to grasp the soap without sending it to the farcorner of the room has a grooved bottom and is retailed for 45 cents. A sponge holder at the same price will keep that useful article withinreach, and for the towels there are bars, rings, and projecting arms. Nickel-plated brass or glass bars are preferred, as the rings areelusive affairs for both hands and towels, while the projecting armsare usually unsubstantial, and if placed too high, constantly threatento stimulate the artificial-eye market. The bars, if strongly attachedto the wall, sometimes are a friend in need when one is getting in orout of the tub or regaining equilibrium after balancing on one foot. 

A mirror of good plate but simple design should be in the room, notnecessarily over the lavatory, but better so. Nice ones may be had for$3 or more. There are tooth-brush and tumbler holders galore, and someone of these arrangements will be found useful. The kind that providesfor a toothpowder box, and has numbered compartments for brushes, isbest, though there is something to be said for the retention of sucharticles within the private domains of their individual owners. Anattachment for toilet paper may be had for a quarter or for a dollar, and a workable one is worth while, as is a good quality of paper. Aglass shelf, costing anywhere from $1. 75 to $12, is almost a necessity, but there are better places than the bathroom for the medicine cabinet. 

A single-tube shower-bath attachment of the simplest sort is a lotbetter than none, and need not cost over 50 cents. The more adaptablekind, with two ends, will be found ticketed at about $2. Thence up tothe elaborate fittings at $250 there are many variations. Sitz bathsand footbaths are rather superfluous in the ordinary bathroom, but wecan spend a hundred dollars for the one and half that for the otherwithout being taken for plutocrats. 

A very fair bathroom, such as would please most of us, may be equippedon a scale about as follows:

Bathtub. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. $36. 00

Five feet long, three-inch roll rim, porcelain enameled, nickel-plateddouble bath cock, supply pipes, connected waste and overflow withcleanout. 

Lavatory. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 30. 00

Twenty by twenty-four inches, porcelain enameled, slab, bowl and apronon four sides in one piece, nickel-plated waste, low-patterncompression faucets with china indexes, supply pipes with compressionstops, and vented traps. 

Closet. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 35. 00

Porcelain enameled, siphonic, oak saddle seat and cover, oak tank (lowset) with marble top and push button, nickel-plated supply pipe withcompression stop. 

Total for main essentials. .. .. .. .. .. .. . $101. 00

 Tub seat, natural oak. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. $0. 50 Soap holder. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 90 Sponge holder. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 95 Toothbrush and tumbler holder. .. .. .. .. . 75 Glass shelf. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1. 75 Shower attachment. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 2. 00 Mirror. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 3. 00 Robe hooks. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 75 Towel bars. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 00 Toilet-paper holder. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 50 Towel basket. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 1. 00

 Grand total. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. $113. 10

CHAPTER XI

CELLAR, ATTIC, AND CLOSETS

Modern city and town life, with butcher and grocer so convenientlynear, has done away to some extent with the cellar of ye oldentyme--dubbed one of the aids to "successful diplomacy, " the other beingthat very necessary adjunct, a good cook. Those were truly days ofbounteous hospitality and plenty which filled the cellar with barrelsof apples of every variety, bins of potatoes, bushels of turnips andonions, barrels of pork "put down, " corned beef, kegs of cider turningto vinegar, crocks of pickles and preserves of all kinds, quarters ofbeef, pans of sausage, tubs of lard and butter, and--oh, fruits andgood things of the earth which we now know only as "a tale that istold. " But the cellar of to-day accommodates itself to to-day's needs, for though we may still lay in some commodities in quantity, we knowthe things of to-morrow can be had from the market on comparativelyshort notice. Nevertheless, the things of to-day--and some otherthings--must be carefully stowed away, and the deeps of the house madehygienic, for as the cellar, so will the house be also, and to thismight be added that as the floor, so will the cellar be also. 

THE CELLAR FLOOR

In country places, where there is no sewage to contaminate the soil, ahard, well-beaten dirt floor is not particularly objectionable, exceptthat it cannot well be cleaned. Boards raised from the ground by smallblocks nailed to the under side, and leading to bins, cupboards, andfurnace room, should be laid across it to prevent the tracking of dirtto the upper rooms, and these little walks must be swept and kept freefrom dirt and dust. If the cellar is floored with boards, the flooringshould be raised sufficiently to allow free circulation of air beneathit; but the only strictly sanitary flooring is of concrete, six inchesthick, covered from wall to wall with Portland or other good cement. Cellars, being below the street, and therefore receiving some of thesurface drainage, are prone to dampness, and, are easily contaminatedby leakage from drains and sewers, and other filth communicated to themthrough the soil. These conditions are largely counteracted by theconcrete and cement flooring, which also bars the entrance of ants andother vermin. The communication of damp cellar air, polluted bynoxious gases from sewers and decaying vegetable matter, to the upperparts of the house is responsible for many an otherwise unexplainablecase of rheumatism, consumption, typhoid, and other diseases, and anyoutlay of time and money which can render the cellar wholesome andimmune to ravages of agents external and beyond our control, must notbe grudged. 

VENTILATION

One who owns his home can adopt preventive measures, such as outsidearea ways or air spaces, impossible to the renter; but certain ouncesof prevention are available to all. For instance: if drain pipes runthrough the cellar, have them examined often for leaks; if there is anopen drain, wash it out frequently with copperas and water, and give itan occasional flushing with chloride of lime or lye in strong solutionto destroy any possible odor arising from it; and see that the roofdrains do not empty too near the house, thus dampening the cellarwalls. Whitewash the walls semiannually, not only for sanitary reasonsbut to lighten the "darkness visible, " and above all else--_havesufficient ventilation_! A perfect circulation of air is insured whenthere are opposite windows; but whatever their location, all windowsshould hang from the top on hinges, or be so put in that they can beeasily removed from the inside; for open they must be, and that all theyear round, except in the coldest winter weather, and even then theycan be opened during the warmer hours of the middle of the day withoutdanger of freezing the contents of the cellar. The cellar can beprotected from invasion from without by galvanized iron netting, andwire screens will exclude the flies. Both screens must, however, be soadjusted that they will not interfere with the opening and closing ofthe windows. 

THE PARTITIONED CELLAR

The cellar which is partitioned off into small rooms is more easilycared for and kept in order than that which consists of just the onelarge space. Rough pine-board partitions cost very little, and one toshut off the furnace (provided there be one) from the rest of the roomis absolutely necessary, since the heat which it generates must not beallowed to spread and so spoil the cellar for cold-storage purposes, for warm, damp air hastens the degeneration of vegetables and meats. Unless some other provision is made in the cellar plan for the coal, astrong bin, with one section movable, should be built for it in thefurnace room. To the posts of this bin hang the shovels--one large andone small--used in handling the coal. The premature burial of many ashovel might have been prevented had its owner only bethought him ofthose simple expedients, hammer and nails. A strip of leather nailedto another post supports ax or hatchet, while near by is the neat pileof kindling which its sharp edge has made--perhaps out of old anduseless boxes and barrels. These must not be allowed to accumulate, but be chopped up at once. Logs and large sticks have each their ownpile, while chips, sawdust, and shavings take up their abode in a largebasket or box. The ashes from the furnace go into boxes and barrelsoutside of the house. 

ORDER IN THE CELLAR

The cellar is primarily a storing place for food, and not an asylum forhopelessly maimed and decrepit furniture. If there is any which ismendable, mend and use it; if not, consign it to the kindling pile atonce, there to round out its career of usefulness. Odds and ends ofrubbish collect very quickly and make a cellar unsightly and difficultto keep in order. If necessary to keep certain boxes for futurepacking purposes, pile them neatly against the wall where they will beout of the way, or else send them up to the attic. When there are norooms partitioned off for their accommodation provide bins, or theircheaper substitutes, barrels or boxes, for vegetables and fruits--boxespreferably, since they are more shallow and their contents can thus bespread out more. Vegetables and fruits should be looked overfrequently, and anything showing signs of decay removed. Instead ofplacing boxes and barrels, vinegar kegs, firkins, stone jars, etc. , directly on the floor, stand them on bricks, small stones, or pieces ofboard. When so placed, they are more easily handled and moved incleaning, and the circulation of air beneath prevents dampness andconsequent decay. 

SHELVES AND CLOSETS

A swinging shelf--double or single--held by supports at the fourcorners, securely nailed to the joists of the floor above, is almostindispensable to the convenience of the cellar. It should be aboutthree feet wide and from six to eight feet in length, and may becovered on three sides with galvanized wire fly netting, the fourthside to have double frame doors, also wire-covered, and swingingoutward. Ordinary cotton netting can he used instead of the wire, andis of course cheaper, but must he renewed each year, while the wirewill last indefinitely. And so we have evolved a cool, flyless placefor our pans of milk, meats, cooked and uncooked, fresh vegetables, cakes, pastry, etc. If poultry or meat is to be hung here for a littlewhile, wrap it in brown paper or unbleached muslin. Wash the shelvesonce a week with sal soda water and dry thoroughly. 

A windowless closet as far as possible from the furnace, and best builtunder some small extension, thus giving it three cool stone walls, isthe place where preserves and jellies keep best. Label each jar andglass distinctly and arrange in rows on the shelves, taller onesbehind, shorter in front. If there is no closet of this kind, acupboard, standing firmly on the floor, can easily be built, forpreserves must have darkness as well as coolness; otherwise they areapt to turn dark and to ferment. The shelves of the fruit closet mustbe examined frequently for traces of that stickiness which tells thatsome bottle of fruit is "working" and leaking. Pickles keep better incrocks on the cellar bottom. 

Laundry tubs and scrub pails are usually kept, bottom up, in thecellar. All articles stored there should be well wrapped in strongpaper and securely tied, and it will be found a great convenience, especially at cleaning time, to hang many things from the ceilingbeams. The cellar should be swept and put to rights every two weeks, cobwebs brushed down, and all corners well looked after. Here, asnowhere else, is the personal supervision of the housewife essential. 

THE ATTIC

It is with a lump in our throats and an ache in our hearts that we turnour thoughts wistfully backward to that place of hallowed memories, which is itself becoming simply a memory--the attic! What happy hourswe spent there, rummaging among its treasures, soothed by its twilightquiet, and a little awed by the ghosts of the past which seemed tohover about each old chest and horsehair trunk and gayly floweredcarpet bag; each andiron and foot warmer and spinning wheel and warmingpan! Roof and floor of wide, rough boards, stained by age and leaks;tiny, cobweb-curtained windows; everything dusty, dim, mysterious!Where is it now? Gone--pushed aside by the march of civilization;supplanted by the modern lathed and plastered attic, with its smoothlylaid floor, which harbors neither mice nor memories. And though wesigh as we say so, the attic of to-day _is_ a better kept, morecompact, more hygienic affair than its ancestor; for we have grown torealize that sentiment must sometimes be sacrificed to sense. Whatevercomes we must have hygiene, even at the expense of the little spiritgerm which seems sometimes to develop best in the "dim religiouslight. " For we cannot forget Victor Hugo and Balzac and Tom Moore intheir attics. 

ORDER AND CARE OF ATTIC

Frequently so much of the attic space is finished off for bed and otherrooms that what remains is somewhat limited, and cannot be turned intoa catch-all for the may-be-usefuls. Indeed, only such things as havetrue worth should go into it, whatever its size, these to be carefullystowed away, like things together--boxes, furniture, winter stovepipeswith their elbows, piles of magazines systematically tied together byyears, trunks, etc. In each trunk place its own special key and strap, and when garments or other articles are packed therein, fasten to thelid a complete list of its contents. Upholstered furniture must beclosely covered with old muslin or ticking. The family tool chestseems to fit into the attic, as well as the small boxes of nails, rollsof wire, screws, bolts, and the hundred odds and ends of hardware whichthe lord of the house must be able to lay his hand on when he wants todo any tinkering about the place. A semiannual sweeping, mopping, anddusting will keep the attic in good condition if thoroughly done, withthe help of the "place for everything, and everything in its place, " aprecept as well as an example which has entered prominently into theupbringing of most of us. Here is another spot where corners andcobwebs like to hobnob, and such intimacy must be sternly discouraged. If old garments are kept in the attic, they should be either packedaway in labeled boxes or trunks, or hung on a line stretched across theroom and carefully covered with an old sheet. This line is alsoserviceable when rainy days and lack of other room make it necessary, to dry the washing here. The modern attic is for utility only, and soits story is soon told. 

CLOSETS

If woman's rights would only usurp one more of what have hitherto beenalmost exclusively man's rights--the profession of architecture--shewould in truth become the architect, not only of her own fortune, butof the fortunes of a suffering sisterhood, whose great plaint is, "Somany things and no place to put them!" For who ever knew a mere man, architect and artist of the beautiful though he were, who had even thebeginning of a realization of the absolute necessity for closets--largeones, light ones, and plenty of them? In his special castle, boxes, bundles, and clothing seem to have a magic way of disposing ofthemselves, "somewhere, somewhen, somehow, " and so it does not occur tohim that his own particular Clorinda is conducting a private condensingplant which could put those of the large packers to the blush. But lethim have just one experience of straightening out and putting torights, and then only will he appreciate that closets are even moreessential than cozy corners and unexpected nooks and crannies forholding pieces of statuary and collecting dust. If a woman could bethe "& Company" of every firm of architects, there would be anevolution in home building which would lengthen the lives and shortenthe labors of "lady-managers" in many lands. When that comfortablewish becomes a reality, let us hope that "Let there be light" will beprinted in large black letters across the space to be occupied by eachcloset in every house plan, for the average closet is so dark that evena self-respecting family skeleton would decline to occupy it, evilthough its deeds are supposed to be. The downpour of the miscellaneouscollection of a closet's shelves upon the blind groper after someparticular package thereon, gives convincing proof that absence oflight means presence of confusion; while it also invites the elusivemoth to come in and make himself at home--which he does. 

THE LINEN CLOSET

But after all, it is a blessed good thing to have some closets, evendark ones, and proper care and attention will go a long way towardremedying their defects. Clothes closets we must have, china closetswe usually have, and linen closets we sometimes have, not always. Tothe housewife who possesses a linen closet it is a source of particularpride, and the stocking and care of it her very special pleasure. Itsdrawers should be deep and its shelves wide and well apart--not lessthan eighteen inches, and even more in the case of the upper ones, forthe accommodation of the reserve supply of blankets, quilts, and otherbed coverings. Arrange on the lower shelves the piles of counterpanes, sheets, and pillowcases in constant use, linen and cotton in separatepiles, and those of the same size together. Washcloths and towels, heavy, fine, bath and hand, have each their own pile on shelf or indrawer, according to room. Shams and other dainty bed accessories gointo the drawers, one of which may be dedicated to the neat strips andtight rolls of old linen and cotton cloth, worn-out underclothing, etc. , as they gradually accumulate. Where no provision is made for alinen closet, a case of the wardrobe type, built along the inner wallof a wide hall, answers the purpose very well, and is not unpleasing tothe eye if made to harmonize with the other woodwork. A closet of thiskind may vary in width from four to six feet, with swinging or slidingdoors, preferably the latter, and drawers and shelves, or shelvesalone. Or there may be a cupboard above and shelves below, or viceversa. 

CLOTHES CLOSETS

Clothes closets of this description can also be built againstunoccupied bedroom walls, the objection to the number of doors thusintroduced being offset by the great convenience of having one'sclothing immediately at hand, exposed to light and to view directly thedoors are opened, for we find things by sight here, not by faith. Angles and recesses which have no special excuse for being are easilyconverted into closets, one to be used as a hanging place for thevarious brooms, brushes, dustpans, and dusters in use about the house. Brooms, by the way, must never be allowed to stand upon their bristles, but must either stand upside down or hang. Another nook becomes aconvenient place for hanging canvas or ticking bags filled with oddsand ends of dress goods, white and colored, news and wrapping papers, balls of twine, and other pick-me-ups. 

THE CHINA CLOSET

The china closet is designed for the accommodation of everything in useon the dining table, with drawers or cupboards for linen and silver, and shelves for dishes. The latter should be arranged with an eye toartistic effect as well as to convenience, platters and decorativeplates standing on edge and kept from slipping by a strip of moldingnailed to the shelf, pretty cups hanging, and those of more commonmaterial and design inverted to keep out the dust. Stand the large andheavy pieces, vegetable dishes, and piles of plates on the bottomshelf, and on the next cups and saucers, sauce dishes, small plates, etc. , placing the smaller dishes in front, the taller ones behind. Thethird shelf may be devoted to glass alone, with tumblers inverted andbowls and odd pieces tastefully arranged, or to both glass and silver. On the fourth shelf place such pieces of glass and silver as are onlyoccasionally brought into service. Personal taste and conveniencedictate to a great extent the placing of the dishes, but absoluteneatness and spotlessness must hold sway. No other closet is moreprone to disarrangement than the china closet, where the carelessdisposal of one dish seems to invite the general disorder which is sureto follow. For this reason it demands the frequent rearranging whichit should receive. Its walls should harmonize in color with those ofthe dining room. Small, fringed napkins or doilies on and overhangingthe shelves help to impart an air of daintiness and make a prettysetting for the dishes. When the china closet does not connect withthe dining room, but is a "thing apart, " its shelves may receive thesame treatment accorded those in the pantry--white paper or oilclothcovering and valance. 

While well-filled linen and china closets appeal to the aesthetic sideof the housewife, clothes closets speak directly to her common-sense, managerial side. If she had a say-so in the matter, their name wouldbe Legion, but she must not think over-hardly of the few she has, forthey are invaluable developers of her genius for putting "infiniteriches in a little room"; while the constant tussle in their depthswith moth and dust induces a daily enlargement of her moral biceps--andher patience. May their shadow never grow less (perish the thought!). 

CLOSET TIGHTNESS

Before anything goes into a closet see that all the cracks in the floorare entirely filled with putty, plaster of Paris, or sawdust, forotherwise dust and lint will accumulate in them, and there the beetlewill find a house and the moth a nest for herself. Whiting and linseedoil mixed well together until the paste is smooth will make the putty. The plaster of Paris is easily prepared by mixing the powder with coldwater till it is of the right consistency to spread, but it hardens soquickly that only a little can be made ready at a time. Or, dissolveone pound of glue in two gallons of water, and stir into it enoughsawdust to make a thick paste. Any of these preparations can becolored to match the floor, put into the cracks with a common steelknife, and made smooth and even with the boards. A better way, however, seems to be to omit the coloring and give the entire floor twocoats of paint after the cracks are filled. There are those who prefercovering the floor with enamel cloth; but try as we will, it is all butimpossible to fit it so closely that dust and animal life cannot slipunder it. 

CLOSET FURNISHING

The floors attended to, next see that there are plenty of hooks screwedon the cleat which should extend around three sides of the closet. They must be at a convenient height, say five feet, and three inchesbelow the first of two or three shelves, to be not over fifteen inchesapart, thus making at least two available for use. On the under sideof this first shelf screw double hooks, and additional hanging room canbe made by suspending a movable rod across the closet on which to hangcoat hooks holding garments. Skirts, waists, and coats hold theirshape far better when disposed of in this way, and can be packedclosely together. A twelve-inch piece of barrel hoop wound withcambric or muslin, and with a loop at the center, is a good substitutefor the commercial hook. On the shelves go hat and other boxes, andvarious parcels, each to be plainly labeled. A chest of drawers at oneend of the closet is handy for the disposal of delicate gowns, extraunderwear, furs, summer dresses, etc. , while a shoe bag insuresadditional order. The soiled-clothes hamper belongs, not in theclothes closet, but in the bathroom. Too much emphasis cannot beplaced on this. The odor from the linen pollutes the naturally closeair of the closet and clings to everything it contains. 

CARE OF CLOSETS AND CONTENTS

Wash the woodwork, drawers, floor, and shelves of all closetsthoroughly with water containing a few drops of carbolic acid--notenough to burn the hands--and wipe dry. Painted walls which can alsobe washed are most desirable; if calcimined, the tinting must berenewed each year. If furs are to be put away, brush and beat well, and then comb to remove possible moths or eggs, sprinkle with camphorgum, wrap in old cotton or linen cloth, then in newspaper, and tiesecurely. Moths, not being literary in their tastes, will never entertherein. All woolens should be put away in the same manner. Thecloset is clean and sanitary now, and the main thing is to keep it so. All garments ought to be thoroughly brushed and aired before hangingaway, particularly in the summer time, with a special application ofenergy to the bottoms of street gowns, the microscopic examination ofone of which revealed millions of tubercular germs--not a pleasantthought, but a salutary one, let us hope. 

It seems such a pity that the sun, that great destroyer of bacteria, cannot shine into our closets; but until the new architect comes to ourrescue with a window, all we can do to sweeten them is to remove theclothing and air by leaving doors and adjacent windows open for acouple of hours. An annual disinfecting with sulphur fumes willdestroy all germs of insect life. Use powdered sulphur--it is far moreeffective than the sulphur candles which are sold for the same purpose. Stand an old pie plate or other tin in a pan of water; on it build alittle fire of paper and fine kindling, pour on the powdered sulphur, and leave to smudge and smoke for twenty-four hours. The closet mustbe sealed up as tight as possible, every crack, crevice, and keyholebeing stuffed with newspaper to prevent the fumes from escaping, theentering door, of course, being sealed after the fumes are started. Ifone desires the sealing to be doubly sealed, newspaper strips twoinches wide and pasted together to make several thicknesses, can bepasted over cracks in doors and windows with a gum-tragacanth solution, prepared by soaking two tablespoons of the gum in one pint of coldwater for an hour, then placing the bowl in a pan of boiling water, andstirring till dissolved. This is easily washed off and will not stainor discolor the woodwork. Although there is an impression to thecontrary, clothing may be left in the closet with entire safety duringthe smoking, provided it is well away from the fire. Indeed, clothingneeds purifying as much as closet, and an occasional disinfecting willhelp on the good work of sanitation. After the closet is once rid ofmoths, tar paper specially prepared for the purpose and tacked on thewalls, is effectual in keeping them away, for they seem to "smell thebattle afar off. "

CHAPTER XII

HANGINGS, BRIC-A-BRAC, BOOKS, AND PICTURES

"Step by step" is a good thought to hold when we reach the fancifyingof the house, as we only do after days of planning, nights of waking, over the must-be's. And, after all, these last accessories are dividedfrom the necessaries by but a hair line, for it is they which give thehome its soul--that beautiful, spiritual softness and radiance which welove and which differentiate the home from the house which is but itsshell. The life and spirit of the home should be one of growth anddevelopment, which can only be achieved in a proper atmosphere andenvironment; and these it now rests with the home builder to supply inthe radiant harmony and softness which flow from these final"trimmings, " which not only create but reflect character. 

THE CHARM OF DRAPERY

Hangings have a considerable share in making the home atmosphere, theirmission being to soften harsh angles and outlines and warm cold, stiffplainness into comfort. Window curtains act as an equalizer inbringing the very best out of both light and dark rooms, serving at thesame time as a partial background for their contents; while portièresare not only aesthetic but useful in deadening sounds, cutting offdraughts, and screening one room from another. "Drapes, " those flimsy, go-as-you-please looking bunches of poor taste knotted, cascaded, andfestooned over mantels, pictures, and chair backs, we have outgrown, confining our efforts in this line to the silk draught curtain toconceal the inelegant yawn of an open grate; and even this is beingsupplanted by the small screen. 

CURTAINS

Windows must be curtained with relation to their shape and position andthe nature of the room. The lower floor of the house, being naturallythe heavier, can be curtained in a statelier manner than the lighterupper story. Here is the proper place for our handsome curtains ofIrish point and other appliqués of muslin or lace on net, and of scrimwith insertions and edges of Renaissance, Cluny, and other laces. These curtains are manufactured in three shades--dark cream or écru, light ivory, and pure white, the ivory being the richest and mostdesirable--and in simple, inexpensive designs as well as those costlyand elaborate, and usually run about 50, 54, and 60 inches wide, and 31/2 yards long. The appliqué curtain wears better in an elaborateall-over design which holds the net together and gives it body, cheaperdesigns which can be had as low as $8 being coarser in quality andpattern. Nottingham curtains must be discredited among otherimitations; they are well-meaning but both tasteless and cheaplyostentatious. Lace curtains are rarely draped, but hang in straightsimplicity, most of the fullness being arranged in the body that theborder design may not be lost in the folds. They are shirred with aninch heading on rods fastened outside of the window casing over whichthey extend, and care must be taken, if the pattern is prominent, thatcorresponding figures hang opposite each other. The double hem at thetop is nearly twice the diameter of the pole, with the extra lengthturned over next to the window, the curtains, when hung, clearing thefloor about 2 inches. They usually stretch down another inch, whichbrings them to just the right length. There is no between length incurtains; they must be either sill or floor length. Over curtains mayor may not be used with the lace curtains. They are not necessary buthave a certain decorative value, particularly in a large room. Rawsilk, 30 inches wide, and costing from $0. 75 to $1. 50 a yard, is theonly fabric sold now for this purpose for drawing-room use. The innercurtains may be simply side curtains, or made with a valance as well, and hang from a separate pole to obscure the top of the casement andjust escape the floor, covering the outside edges of the lace curtainswithout concealing their borders. The over curtain should reproducethe coloring of the side wall and ceiling in a shade between the two indensity, but if just the right tint cannot be caught, recourse to somesoft, harmonious neutral tint will be necessary. Lining is not usedunless there is an objection to the colored curtain showing from thestreet, when the lining silk or sateen must be of the shade of the lacecurtain. 

Almost any sort of pretty net or scrim curtain is appropriate for thedownstairs windows, with a preference in favor of the more dignifiedlace in the drawing-room. With the other rooms we can take moreliberty. The ruffled curtain is sash length and looped with a band ofthe same, or with a white cotton cord and tassel at the middle sash ifthe window be short, otherwise midway between it and the sill. Thereare fine fish nets, or _tulle de Cadiz_, 45, 50, and 60 inches wide at50 cents a yard, which make charming living- or dining-room curtains, edged on three sides with the new 1-inch fringe or fancy edge, at 5 and10 cents a yard, which comes for that purpose; and madras, plain orfigured, is also good, a pretty combination being the fish net withcolored madras over curtain. Raw-silk curtains are in use, too, butanything which stands too much between the home dwellers and the airand light is best avoided. Silk curtains are usually trimmed with abrush edge. Glass curtains are only necessary as a screen or to softenthe harsh outline of a heavy curtain, and must be as transparent andinconspicuous as possible, the right side toward the glass. They aresill length, shirred to a small brass rod set inside the casing, anddraped if the over curtain hangs straight, to maintain a balance. Those used on windows visible at once from the same quarter must bealike. The lace panels with a center design which we sometimes see inwindows, but more frequently in doors, are too severe to be eithergraceful or ornamental. The vestibule door is best treated tocorrespond with the drawing-room windows, with an additional silkcurtain to be drawn at night; or the silk curtain harmonizing with thewoodwork of the hall may be used alone. 

The curtaining of bedroom windows has already been discussed at somelength. Swisses, dimities, figured muslins, and madras, either aloneor supplemented by a valance, an over curtain, or both, of madras, chintz or cretonne, are preeminently the bedroom curtains, and mayeither be draped or hang straight, depending somewhat on the shape ofthe window. The long, narrow window needs the broadening effect of thedraped curtain, the illusion of width being further increased byextending the curtain out to cover the casement, while thestraight-hanging curtain gives additional length to the short window. Frilled curtains are usually looped, and seemingly increase the size ofthe room by enlarging the area of vision. An extra allowance of 6inches is made for draping, with an additional inch or two forshrinkage. The charm of simplicity is always to be borne in mind whencurtaining a room. 

PORTIÈRES

Portières must serve their purpose, which is most emphatically _not_that of "drapery" in the sense in which the word has been so much used, but of convenience and utility, beauty, of course, being the twinsister of the latter nowadays. Figured portières with plain walls, andvice versa, are the rule, the coloring blending with both floor andwalls and coming between the two in density. Again the neutral tintcomes to the rescue if difficulty in matching is met. There is almostan embarrassment of riches in portière materials in plain and figuredvelours, woolen brocades, soft tapestries, furniture satins, damasks, velvets, etc. , but we are learning the true art value of the simplerdenims (plain and fancy), reps, cotton tapestries, rough, heavy linens, and monk's cloth--a kind of jute--for door hangings. The plain goodsin dull, soft greens, blues, and browns, with conventional designs inappliqué or outlining, are not only inexpensive but artistic to a highdegree, and are easily fashioned by home talent. Plain strips, too, are used for trimming, and stencil work, but the latter requires rathermore artistic ability than most of us possess. Whatever the material, it must be soft enough to draw all the way back and leave a fullopening, but not so thin as to be flimsy and stringy. The portiere iseither shirred over the pole or hung from it by hook safety pins orrings sewed on at intervals of four inches. Double-faced goods havethe hems on the side on which they will show least, with any extralength turned over as a valance on the same side. The finished curtainshould hang one inch from the floor and will gradually stretch until itjust escapes--the proper length. Single-faced materials are lined toharmonize with the room which receives the wrong side. Lengthwisestripes give a long, narrow effect, while crosswise stripes give anapparent additional width, and plain materials seem to increase thesize of a doorway. Rods may be either of a wood corresponding with theother woodwork, or of brass, with rings, sockets, and brackets of thesame material, the brass rod to be an inch in diameter and the wooden 11/2 inches or more and set inside the jambs. 

Portières are also of service in softening the opening of a large baywindow, making a cozy corner, or cutting off an awkward length of hall. When a doorway is very high it is better to carry the portière towithin a foot or so of the top, leaving the opening unfilled, orsupplying a simple grille of wood harmonizing with the wood of thedoor. A pretty fashion is to introduce into this space a shelf onwhich to place pieces of brass or pottery. Beaded, bamboo, and ropeaffairs are neither draperies nor curtains, graceful, useful norornamental, and are consequently not to be considered. 

Men of science may cry "Down with draperies!"--but we members of thatchoicer cult known as domestic science stand loyally by them, forthough in draperies there may he microbes, there is also largess ofcoziness and geniality. 

BRIC-A-BRAC

The old-fashioned "whatnot" with its hungrily gaping shelves isresponsible for many crimes committed in the name of bric-a-brac, andcalls to mind sundry specimens with which proud owners were wont tosatisfy its greed: the glass case of wax or feather flowers, flankedand reenforced by plush photograph frames, shells, china vases shining"giltily, " silvered and beribboned toasters, peacock-feather fans, withperhaps a cup and saucer bearing testimony to our virtue with its "Fora good girl, " and other fill-upables, gone but not forgotten. And thenfollowed a time when mantels and bookcase tops bore certain ills in theway of the more modern painted plaques, strings of gilded nuts, embroidered banners, and porcelain and brass clocks so gaudy andbedizened as to explain why time flies. But the architect has come tothe rescue with his dignified, stately mantel which repels the trivialfamiliarity of meaningless decoration, and the bookcase whose simple, quiet elegance is in itself decorative. Blessed be the nothingnesswhich allows Miladi to build her own art atmosphere untainted by giftsof well-intentioned but tasteless friends. 

THE GROWTH OF GOOD TASTE

The germs of the capacity for good taste are born in most of us, butmust be sedulously cultivated before they can rightly be called taste, and bric-a-brac presents the best of possibilities for theirdevelopment. Begin by buying one piece which you know to bebeautiful--simple and refined in outline, choice in design, modest incoloring, and fit for the use to which it is to be put--live with it, study it, master it. It will take on many unexpected charms as yougrow to know it, and when you are ready to select the next piece youwill find that the germ of your talent for discrimination has quietlybecome other ten talents and grown into a reliable ability to separatethe chaff from the wheat. Each acquisition will have its own peculiarindividuality which, once conquered, means a liberal education. 

USEFULNESS WITH BEAUTY

While all bric-a-brac should be beautiful, some certain kinds, such aslamps, clocks, and jardinières, are also essentially useful, and thesehave undergone a wonderful transformation during recent years as aresult of the movement toward simplicity, honesty of purpose, andfitness. It would be hard to imagine anything more incongruous thanthe porcelain lamp decorated with flowers of heroic endurance whichblossomed unwiltingly on, regardless of the heat; or the frivolouslydecorated clock when the passing of time is so serious a matter; or thegaudy jardinière, whose coloring killed the green of the plant it held. But we have grown past this. Now our light at eventide is shed througha simple, plain-colored shade of porcelain or of Japan paper and bamboo(if one cannot afford the plain or mosaic shades of opalescent glass), from an oil tank fitted into a bowl of hand-hammered brass or copper, or of pottery, of which there are so many beautiful pieces of Americanmanufacture in dull greens, blues, browns, grays, and reds. Theselamps are not expensive--no more so than their onyx and brassforbears--and are quiet, restful, beneficent in their influence. Jardinières we find in the same wares and colorings, which not onlythrow the plant into relief but tone in with the other decorations of aroom in which nothing stands out distinct from its fellows, but allthings work together for harmony. Clocks no longer stare us out ofcountenance, but follow, in brass, copper, or rich, dark woods, thesturdy simplicity of their ancestor, the grandfather's clock, and sobecome worthy of the place of honor upon the mantel, wherecandlesticks, antique or modern, in brass or bronze, also find acongenial resting place. 

[Illustration: The drawing-room. ]

CONSIDERATIONS IN BUYING

There are so many vases, jugs, bronzes, medallions, jars, and bowlsthat one must needs walk steadfastly to avoid buying just for thepleasure of it, whereas each piece must be chosen with reference to theplace it is to occupy and to its associates. Any piece of genuineJapanese art ware, of which Cloisonné is perhaps the best known; old orancestral china; objects of historical interest; different examples ofAmerican pottery, among others the Grueby, Van Briggle, and Teco, withtheir soft, dull glazes, and the Rookwood with its brilliantly glazedrich, mellow browns, its delicately tinted dull Iris glaze, and otherstyles which are being brought out; Wedgwood with its cameo-likereliefs; the rainbow-tinted Favrile glass; the Copenhagen in dull bluesand grays--all these embody, each in its individual way, therequirements of art bric-a-brac. 

But the brown Rookwood will overshadow the Copenhagen, and themulticolored Cloisonné will kill the Iris, and so each piece must havea congenial companion if any. And above all, don't crowd! Bric-a-bracneeds breathing room, and individual beauty is lost in the jumblingtogether of many pieces in a heterogeneous maze of color, whichconfuses and wearies the eye. All the fine-art product asks is to belet alone--a small boon to grant to so great worth. 

"Tip-overable" flower holders defeat their own ends--utility--but thereare many which are well balanced and beautiful, too: tall, wide-mouthedcut, Bohemian, or more simple glass for long-stemmed roses, carnations, or daisies; brown Van Briggle, Grueby, or Rookwood bowls fornasturtiums, golden rod, and black-eyed Susans; green for hollyhocks, dull red for dahlias, gladioli, etc. , flowers and receptacles thusforming a true color symphony. 

Parian and Carrara marble, immortally beautiful, we can but gaze atfrom afar, but masterpieces of the sculptor's chisel are ours at smallcost in ivory-tinted plaster reproductions of the Venus de Milo, theWinged Victory, busts and medallions of famous personages, etc. , whichmay with truth be called "art for art's sake. "

Dining-room bric-a-brac generally consists of whatever occupies theplate rail--an interesting array of plates, pitchers, bowls, jars, cupsand saucers, steins, cider mugs, and tankards. And here our cherishedancestral china finds a safe haven from which it surveys its young, modern descendants with benignant toleration. 

BOOKS

A spirit of friendliness and companionship radiates from a good book--ageniality to be not only felt, but cultivated and enjoyed. Thefriendship of man is sometimes short-lived and evanescent, but thefriendship of books abideth ever. Paraphrasing "Thanatopsis":

 "For our gayer hours They have a voice of gladness, and a smile And eloquence of beauty, and they glide Into our darker musings, with a mild And healing sympathy, that steals away Their sharpness, ere we are aware. "

Truly, a book for every mood, and a mood for every book, THEIR SELECTION

The true measure of a book is not "How well does it entertain, " but"How much help does it give in the daily struggle to overcome the badwith the good, " and as one makes friends with muscle-giving authors thefancy for light-minded acquaintances among books gradually wears away. Although different tastes require special gratification in certaindirections, yet some few books must have place in every well-balancedlibrary. First always, the Bible, with concordance complete for studypurposes, a set of Shakespeare in small, easily handled volumes, a setof encyclopaedias, and a standard dictionary. Then some of the bestknown poets--Milton, Spenser, Pope, Goldsmith, Burns, Wordsworth, Keats, Shelley, the Brownings, Byron, Homer, Dante, etc. , withLongfellow, Riley, and some others of our best-loved Americanpoets--for though we may not care for poetry we cannot afford to denyourselves its elevating influence; standard histories of our own andother countries; familiar letters of great men which also mirror theirtimes--Horace Walpole, Lord Macaulay, etc. ; essays of Bacon, Addison, DeQuincey, Lamb, Irving, Emerson, Lowell, and Holmes; and certain worksof fiction which have stood the test of time and criticism, withDickens and Thackeray heading the list. Indulgence in all theso-called "popular" novels of the day, like any other dissipation, profits nothing, and vitiates one's taste for good literature at thesame time. Therefore, hold fast that which is known to be good innovels, with here and there just a little spice of recent fiction; forman cannot live by spice alone, which causes a sort of mental dyspepsiawhich is very hard to overcome. 

SETS

An appetite for "complete sets" is a perverted one which usually goeswith a love for the shell of the book rather than its meat. It isbetter far to prune out the obscure works and buy, a few at a time ifnecessary, the best known works of favorite authors, than to clutter upone's bookshelves with volumes which will never be opened. Partialsets acquired in this way can be of uniform edition and gain in valuefrom those which are left in the shop. 

BINDING

Books, like our other friends, have an added attraction if tastilyclothed. Good cloth bindings, not too ornate or strong in color, aresubstantial and usually best for the home library. Real leatherbindings of morocco or pigskin are rich and suggestive of good foodwithin, but imitation leather must join other domestic outcasts. Though it may look well at first it soon shows its quality ofshabby-genteel. Calf has deteriorated because of the modern quickmethod of tanning by the use of acids, which dries the skin and causesit to crack. Books in party attire of white paper and parchment andvery delicate colors are not good comrades, for the paper cover whichmust be put on to protect the binding is a nuisance, while without it"touch me not" seems to be written all over the book. Our best bookfriends are not of this kind, but permit us to be on terms of friendlyintimacy with them, receiving as their reward all due meed of courteoustreatment. There can be no true reverence for books in the heart ofthe vandal who leaves marks of disrespectful soiled fingers on theirpages, turns down their leaves, and breaks their backs by laying themopen, face down. 

PAPER

Their paper should be of a good quality, not too heavy, and the typeclear, both of which conditions usually obtain in an average-pricedbook. Their housing has much to do with their preservation. Dampnessis, perhaps, their deadliest enemy, not only rotting and loosening thecovers, but mildewing the leaves and taking out the "size" which givesthem body. An outside wall is always more or less damp, and for thisreason the bookcase must stand out from it at least a foot, if itstands there at all, and preferably at right angles to it. Dust isalso an insidious enemy, from which, in very sooty, dirty localities, glass doors afford the best protection. These must be left openoccasionally to ventilate the case, for books must have air and lightto keep them fresh and sweet and free from dampness, but not sun tofade their covers. Intense artificial heat also affects them badly, wherefore, the upper part of the room being the hotter, cases shouldnever be more than eight feet high, the use of window seat and otherlow cases having very decided advantages, apart from their decorativevalue. Whatever the design of the case--and, of course, it mustharmonize with the other wood of the room--its shelves must be easilyadjustable to books of different heights, standing in compact rows andnot half opened to become permanently warped and spoiled. Varnished orpainted shelves grow sticky with heat and form a strong attachment fortheir contents. The bookcase curtain is useful more as a protectionagainst dust than as an art adjunct, for there is nothing moredelightful to the cultivated eye than the brave front presented byeven, symmetrical rows of well-bound volumes, so suggestive of hours ofprofitable companionship. All the books must be taken down frequentlyand first beaten separately, then in pairs, and dusted, top and covers, with a soft brush or a small feather duster. 

"The true University of these days is a Collection of Books, " and one'seducation cannot begin too early. 

PICTURES

So many homes combining taste and elegance and refinement in theirfurnishing, still impress one with the feeling that somewhere withinthe lute there is a rift which destroys its perfect harmony, and thatrift is not far to seek--it lies in the pictures. Cheap chromos, lithographs, and woodcuts have small excuse for being in these days offine reproductions in photographs, photogravures, and engravings, andtheir presence in a home indicates not only a lopsided development ofthe artistic sense, but an indifference to that beauty of which art isbut one of the expressions. Happy, indeed, is the homemaker inrealizing the necessity and privilege of growing up to the works ofartists who have seen beauty where she would have been blind, and feltto a depth which she has not known; for in that realization lies thepromise of ability to rise to the point where she will at last be ableto feel as the artist felt when he wrought. 

ART SENSE

Mrs. Lofty, who never has to stop to count the cost, loses the valuableart education which our housewife all unconsciously acquires in themonths which necessarily pass between her picture purchases--months inwhich she has time to discover new beauties, fresh interest, deepermeaning, in those she already has. All these new impressions shecarries with her to the selection of her next treasure, and the resultwill probably be a choice of greater artistic merit than she would havebeen capable of making before. So long as there is something in apicture which impresses her, the fact that she does not fullyunderstand its underlying meaning need be no obstacle to its purchase;the light of comprehension will come. 

THE INFLUENCE OF PICTURES

The picturing of the home should be undertaken in no light humor, forbetter no pictures at all than poor ones. Little, trivial, meaninglessnothings are like small talk--uninspiring and devitalizing--andtherefore unprofitable; battle and other exciting scenes wear on thenerves; the constant presence of many persons is tiring in pictures aswell as out; small figures and fine detail which cannot bedistinguished across the room cause visual cramp; and the rearing horsewhich keeps one longing for the rockers cannot be called reposeful. Any picture in which one seeks in vain the rest and peace and quietudeand inspiration which the home harmony demands, is but a travesty ofart--domestically speaking. There is probably nothing more rest-givingthan the marine view, and next come the pretty pastoral and coolwoodland scenes, while madonnas and other pictures of religioussignificance express their own worth--just a few choice, well-selectedphotographs, etchings, and engravings of agreeable subjects, with apainting or two; that's all we want. 

OIL PAINTINGS

Really fine oils are costly, and no house can stand more than one ortwo at most, because of the impossibility of giving them the correctlighting and the distance they require, without which their best effectis lost. Properly, an oil painting should be given a wall or even awhole room to itself, as water colors and colored prints seemcolorless, and black-and-whites cold, by comparison. The deep goldframe is its best setting. Gold frames and mats are usually effectiveon colored pictures of any kind in bringing out certain colors, darkones especially, though artists are growing to use wood frames filledto harmonize with and throw into relief some one tone in the picture, the mat taking the same color. Gilt has no place on photographs, etchings, or engravings, their simple, flat frames of oak, birch, sycamore, etc. , with their mats, if mats are used, toning with thegray, brown, or black of the picture. Fantastically carved anddecorated frames are things of the past, both frame and mat being nowessentially a part of the picture and blending with it, while settingit off to the best advantage. Passepartout is an inexpensivesubstitute for framing, particularly of small pictures, and iseffectively employed with a properly colored mat and binding. Whitemats are still in occasional use for water colors and forblack-and-whites, but for photographs we find a more grateful warmth infollowing the tone of the picture. 

ENGRAVINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS

Engravings and photogravures most satisfactorily reproduce paintings, as hand work always has more life than the photographic copy. Allreproductions, however, bring the works of world-famous artists withinour reach, and enable us to be on intimate terms with the animals ofRosa Bonheur, the peasants of Millet, the portraits of Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Sargent, and Gainsborough, the landscapes of Corot, Daubigny, Dupre, and Turner, and the madonnas of Raphael, Botticelli, Bodenhauser, and Correggio. Amateur photography, with its soft pasteleffects in black, green, white, red, and gray, is making rapid stridesand doing much to advance the cause of art in the home. Thehand-colored photograph is acceptable if the coloring is true andrightly applied, while certain charming colored French prints, so likewater colors as to be hardly distinguishable from them, have distinctworth. Then there are the reproductions of our present-dayillustrators, in both black-and-white and colors, and in which we seemto have a personal interest. Originals are always costly and hard toget, the exception being the obscure but worthy artist whose fame andfortune are yet to be won. The carved Florentine frame is a valuablesetting for certain colored heads or painted medallions. 

SUITABILITY OF SUBJECTS

Although any good picture may be hung with propriety in almost any ofthe first-floor rooms, heads of authors and pictures having historicand literary significance seem especially suggestive of the library;musicians and musical subjects of the music room, or wherever one'smusical instruments may be; dignified subjects, such as cathedrals, with the game and animal pictures which used to hang in the diningroom, of the hall; while we now picture our dining room with prettylandscapes or anything else cheery and attractive. Family portraits, if we must have them, hang better in one's own room, but really theirroom is better than their company, as a rule. 

HANGING OF PICTURES

As to hanging pictures, the main thing is to have them on a level withthe eye, and each subject in a good light--dark for light parts of theroom, light for dark. Small pictures are most effective in groups, hung somewhat irregularly and compactly. All pictures lie close to thewall, suspended by either gilt or silvered wire, whichever tones bestwith the wall decoration. The use of two separate wires, each attachedto its own hook, is preferable to the one wire, whose triangular effectis inharmonious with the horizontal and vertical lines of the room. Small pictures are best hung with their wires invisible, thus avoidinga network on the walls. 

CHAPTER XIII

THE NICE MACHINERY OF HOUSEKEEPING

 "Solomon Grundy, Born on Monday, Christened on Tuesday, Married on Wednesday, Took ill on Thursday, Worse on Friday, Died on Saturday, Buried on Sunday. That's the end of Solomon Grundy. "

This little tale serves to show how it simplifies life to have a timefor everything and everything in its time. System was probably a habitin the Grundy family, and was so bred in Solomon's bones that it neveroccurred to him that he could reverse the order observed by the Grundysfor generations back and be married on Thursday, for instance. And yetthere is room for conjecture as to how much difference it might havemade in his life if he had elected to contract an alliance on that dayinstead of a fatal illness. System is a fine servant but a poormaster. Simply because custom has decreed that Monday shall be washday, Tuesday ironing day, and so on, it does not necessarily followthat this programme must be strictly adhered to in every family, orthat the schedule of the week's work, once made out, cannot be changedto meet the unexpected exigencies which are apt to arise. To be sure, Monday as wash day has many points in its favor; but if it must bepostponed until Tuesday, or the clothes have not dried well and theironing has to go over into Wednesday, there is no reason why the wholedomestic harmony should become "like sweet bells jangled, out of tuneand harsh. " Although order is heaven's first law, it occasionallyhappens that it is better to break the law than to be broken by it. And so, when the young housekeeper's nicely arranged plans for each dayin the week are suddenly turned topsy-turvy, let her take heart ofgrace, remembering that there are whole days that "ain't teched yet, "and begin again. 

MONDAY

The chief objection to washing on Monday is that it necessitatessorting and putting the soiled linen to soak on Sunday, which not onlyviolates the religious principles of many households, but shortens andspoils the flavor of the maid's free Sabbath evening. Then, too, thesorting of the linen often reveals holes and rents which shouldproperly be repaired before laundering increases the damage, and aTuesday washing makes this possible, with the straightening out andreadjustment generally necessary after Sunday. On the other hand, thelonger the linen remains unlaundered the more difficult it is tocleanse, with the risk that good drying days may tarry and the ironingthus linger along till the end of the week, which is inconvenient andbothersome all round. Therefore it seems quite advisable for Mrs. Grundy to wash on Monday, and an occasional postponement until Tuesdaywill not then be a matter of any great moment. The routine work ofevery day--the airing, brushing up, and dusting of the rooms, thepreparation and serving of meals at their regular hours, the chamberwork, dish-washing, in short, all the have-to-be-dones, must not, andneed not, be interfered with by the special work which belongs to eachday. There are hours enough for both, and rest time, too, unless thehousekeeper or maid be cut after the pattern of Chaucer's Sergeant ofthe Law:

 "Nowher so bisy a man as he ther nas, And yet he semed bisier than he was. "

Wash day is always somewhat of an ordeal, and a long pull, a strongpull, and a pull all together is necessary to carry it successfullythrough. A simple breakfast will give the maid an opportunity to sortand put the clothes to soak, if this was not done the night previous, heat water for the washing, and perhaps prepare vegetables for theday's meals, before breakfast is served; and if her mistress lends ahelping hand with the dishes, dusting, or other regular work of theday, she can go to her tubs just that much earlier. Getting up in thewee sma' hours and working by early candle light is misdirectedambition. The maid needs her rest to fit her for her day's labors, andwashing well done requires the light of day. Set the breakfast hourahead half an hour and so gain a little extra time. Foresight andextra planning on Saturday will provide certain left-overs fromSunday's meals which can be quickly and easily transformed intoMonday's luncheon. Dinner, too, should be a simple meal, but don't addto the other trials of the day cold comfort at meal time. Asmoking-hot dinner has a certain heartening influence to which we areall more or less susceptible. The doors leading from the room in whichthe washing is done must be kept closed to exclude the steamy odor fromthe rest of the house, and the maid allowed to proceed with her workwithout interruption. By eleven o'clock she will probably have reacheda point where she can stop to prepare luncheon. If the family is verysmall, she can frequently do not only the washing but considerable ofthe ironing as well on Monday, but that is crowding things a little toomuch. After the washing is accomplished the line should be drawn atwhat _must_ be done, and nothing which is not absolutely necessary putinto the few remaining hours of the day, for the maid's back and armshave had quite enough exercise for the time being. If a laundress isemployed, the cleaning of the kitchen floor and the laundry and theironing should be about accomplished by night, unless it seems best tohave her clean and do other extra work after the washing is finished. If the housewife is her own laundress, she must acquire the gentle artof letting things go on the hard days, for she cannot possibly belaundress, maid, and house-mother all in one, and her health andwell-being are of prime importance. 

TUESDAY

The washing being done on Monday, it naturally follows that Mrs. Grundyirons on Tuesday, after the regular routine work has been dispatched. The first thought is the fire, if the ironing is done by a coal range. After breakfast is prepared the fire box should be filled with coal tothe top of the lining, and draughts opened, to be closed as soon as thesurface coal begins to burn red, the top of the stove brushed off, andthe irons set on to heat. This is a good place to sandwich in a littlebaking, before the fire becomes too hot for cakes or delicate pastry. If the maid feels that she must devote this time to the preparation ofvegetables, or to other work which is liable to interfere with her worklater on, madam may choose to step into the breach and try her hand atsundry delectables for the ironing-day luncheon or dinner, both mealsbeing as simple as consistent with comfort and health. The ironing, once commenced, should continue uninterruptedly until time to prepareluncheon, when the irons are pushed back and the fire shaken or rakedand replenished. By this time the clothes bars should begin to take ona comfortable look of fullness. It is well to keep them covered withcheesecloth as a protection from dust and soot and, in summer, flyspecks. If any frying is to be done, set the bars in another roomuntil it is over and the kitchen thoroughly aired, otherwise the odorwill cling to the clothes. After luncheon the range is cleaned and theirons drawn forward to heat for the afternoon session; and by the timethe table is cleared, dishes washed, and kitchen brushed up, both theyand the maid are ready for the renewed onslaught. Though it mayoccasionally run over into the next day, the average ironing ought tobe completed during the afternoon and remain well spread out on thebars overnight to dry and air. Tuesday, though a full day, is so cleanand neat that there is no reason why the maid should not keep herselfequally so and be ready to serve the table and attend the door withoutfurther preparation than slipping on her white apron--and cap, if shewears one. 

WEDNESDAY

On Wednesday Mrs. Grundy mends and puts away the clean clothes andpicks up some of the household stitches which had to be dropped on thetwo preceding days. The kitchen must be put in order, the refrigeratormust have its semiweekly cleaning, and the ashes which have accumulatedin the stove removed, a new fire built, and the hearth washed. Whilethe oven is heating for the mid-week baking there are vestibules andporches to wash, walks to sweep, the cellar to investigate, and a dozenlittle odds and ends to attend to which, with the baking, make a busymorning. The cleaning of silver dovetails nicely with the Wednesdaywork, and during the canning season the preserving of fruit can be doneat this time with the least interference with the other work of thehouse, though when it becomes a case of the fruit being ripe, otherwork must give way for the nonce. In short, Wednesday is the generalweekly catch-all into which go all the odd jobs for which room cannotbe found elsewhere. 

THURSDAY

It is Mrs. Grundy's theory, strengthened by practical experience, thatit is better to extend the weekly sweeping and cleaning over two daysthan to condense it all into one; and so Phyllis takes the bedroomcleaning as her special Thursday work, and armed with broom, dustpan, pail, and cleaning cloths, she ascends to the upper regions as soon asshe has reduced the lower to their everyday nicety. The daily brushingup with broom or carpet sweeper removes the surface dirt, but sweepingday means a good "digging out. " She commences operations by sweepingout the closet and wiping off the floor with a cloth wrung out of hotborax water. Then she brushes down, rolls or folds all curtains anddraperies, and fastens them up as near the pole as possible, perhapsslipping a case over each as a protection from the dust. If the bed ishung with a valance, that, too, is pinned up. All small toiletarticles and knicknacks are dusted and placed on the bed, and coveredwith a dust sheet of coarse unbleached muslin, or calico; bowl, pitcher, and other crockery are washed and dried, inside and out, andplaced in the closet, with dresser and stand covers, which have beenshaken out of the window. These, if soiled, are relegated to theclothes hamper, to be replaced by fresh ones. Chairs and easily movedarticles of furniture are dusted and set outside of the room. If thereis a fire the ashes are carefully removed and brushed from the stove;the windows are opened unless there is a strong wind, when they areopened a little after the cleaning is done, and the sweeping begins. 

The broom should be of about medium weight, held almost perpendicularlyand passed over the carpet with a long, light stroke and steadypressure which will not scatter the dirt, and turned every few strokesthat both sides may receive equal wear. Steps can be saved by sweepingto a central point, going with the nap of the carpet, never against it, taking special care to dislodge the dust which gathers between theedges of the carpet and the baseboard. Shreds of dampened paper, ordamp bran scattered over the carpet facilitate its cleaning; or in lieuof these the broom may be wet and shaken as free from water as possiblebefore using. Any method of keeping down the dust saves much cleaningof woodwork, walls, and pictures. Rugs are swept in the same way ascarpets. After they are cleaned the edges are turned up and the barefloor gone over with a long-handled hair brush, or with a broom coveredwith a Canton-flannel bag. If the floor is painted, follow the dusterwith a damp cloth; if hardwood, rub well with a flannel slightlymoistened with crude oil and turpentine. Small rugs are taken out ofdoors and shaken or beaten. They must be held by the sides, never bythe ends. Matting should be swept with a soft broom and wiped overwith a damp cloth, using as little water as possible, and no soap, which stains and discolors it. Rubbing with a cloth wrung out of hotwater will usually take out the spots which the regular cleaning hasfailed to remove, while grease spots yield to the application of a thinpaste of fuller's earth left for three days and then brushed off. Rooms not in daily use do not need a thorough sweeping oftener thanevery two weeks, a whisk broom and carpet sweeper sufficing betweentimes. 

While the dust is settling put a fresh bag or a clean, soft duster onthe broom and brush off ceiling and walls, using a straight downwardstroke for the latter. The cloth must be renewed when it becomessoiled. A long-handled feather duster is handy for cleaning moldingsand cornices. This, by the way, is the only legitimate use to which afeather duster can be put, in addition to dusting books and the backsand wires of pictures. Instead of taking up the dust, it simply setsit free to settle elsewhere, making a lingering trouble, long drawnout; for though one may whisk around with it and then enjoy theconscious virtue which comes with having "one more thing out of theway, " the complacency is short-lived and the cheesecloth duster finallyhas to come to the rescue. All dusters should be hemmed, otherwise theravelings are apt to catch and pull down the bric-a-brac. After thewalls Phyllis dusts the woodwork and goes over it with a clean, dampcloth, not omitting doorknobs, and looking out for finger marks inlikely places. If these are stubborn, a little kerosene in thecleaning water will help on the good work. She brushes and wipes offthe window casings and gas fixtures, dusts and replaces the furniture, polishes the mirrors, and washes the windows the last thing, providedthe sun is not shining on them at this time. If so, the work will haveto be deferred and slipped in with special work of some other time. Inlocalities where there is little smoke the weekly washing may bedispensed with, dusting off each pane with a soft cloth being all thatis necessary. In freezing weather this is the only cleaning possible, though if the glass is much soiled it can be gone over with a spongewet with alcohol; or with whiting mixed with diluted alcohol orammonia, followed by much the same rubbing process employed in cleaningsilver, with a final polishing with soft paper, tissue preferably, which gives the finest possible shine to any vitreous surface. Ifthere are inside or outside blinds, they must be well brushed, andcasings and sills which are much soiled washed, before the glass iscleaned. The requirements for successful window cleaning are a thirdof a pail of hot water containing a little ammonia or borax, plenty ofclean, soft cloths free from lint, a complete absence of soap, and adecided presence of energy--aye, there's the rub! The less water usedthe better. Instead of allowing it to run down in tears, squeeze thecloth out nearly dry, going quickly over one pane at a time, followingimmediately with a dry cloth, and then polishing. Wrap the cleaningcloth around a skewer and go into the corners and around the edges ofthe glass. Nothing is more productive of distorted vision than lookingthrough a glass darkly. Wherefore, for the sake of the mental as wellas the physical eye, see that Phyllis's window cleaning is a success. 

After the bedrooms are in order the halls and passages on the samefloor, and the bathroom, are swept and cleaned. 

FRIDAY

On Friday Mrs. Grundy's living rooms and first-floor halls are treatedto their weekly renovation, which is similar to that which the bedroomsreceive, only there is more of it. The preparation of the drawing-roomfor sweeping is more elaborate, containing, as it does, more pieces offurniture and bric-a-brac to be cared for. All movable pieces aredusted and taken from the room. Upholstered furniture must be wellbrushed, going down into the tufts and puffs with a pointed brushsimilar to that used by painters, and pieces which are too large tomove covered with a dust sheet. A vigorous brushing with a whisk broomwill be necessary around the edges of the carpet, in the corners, andunder the heavy furniture. Mirrors must be polished, glasses, frames, backs, and wires of pictures wiped off, and fancy carving which theduster will not reach cleaned out with a soft brush. 

If the room contains a marble mantel, it can be cleaned with sapolio oralmost any good scouring powder, and tiles washed with soap and water. The fireplace should be cleaned out before the sweeping is done, andthe hearth brushed, with a bath afterwards. Brass trimmings andutensils in use about the grate can be easily kept clean by rubbingfirst with kerosene and then with red pomade; but if neglected andallowed to become tarnished, it is somewhat of an undertaking torestore them to their pristine brightness. In an extreme case rub withvinegar and salt, wash off quickly, and follow with some good polish. Results obtained in this way are not lasting, and the vinegar and saltshould be resorted to only after other well-tried means have failed. Another home cure for tarnished brass and other metals is a mixture ofwhiting, four pounds; cream of tartar, one quarter pound; andcalcinated magnesia, three ounces. Apply with a damp cloth. 

The dust will settle while the brasses are being cleaned, and then thecarpet or rug should be brushed over a second time, lightly, and may bebrightened once a month or so by rubbing, a small space at a time, witha stiff scrubbing brush dipped in ammonia water--two tablespoons ofammonia to a gallon of water--and then quickly wiping over with a drycloth. The chandeliers and gas fixtures should be wiped with a clothwrung from weak suds, the globes dusted or washed as required, and adoubled coarse thread drawn back and forth through the gas tips, if gasis in use. Registers should be wiped out and dusted every sweeping dayto prevent the accumulation of dust. All woodwork, if painted, isdusted and then wiped down with a damp cloth; if hardwood, use thecrude oil and turpentine, going into grooves and corners with a skewer, and rub hard with a second clean flannel. Hardwood floors receive thesame treatment after being swept, and it is a good plan to go over allthe furniture in the same way to preserve the life and fine finish ofthe wood, but it is imperative that the wood be rubbed _absolutely dry_. 

When the windows have been washed, furniture replaced, and everythingis in apple-pie order in the drawing-room, each of the remaining roomsis cleaned in like manner, ending with the hall, where each stair isbrushed with a whisk broom into the dust pan, and carpet, walls, ceiling, and woodwork attended to as in the other rooms. The dustingcloths and broom bags should go regularly into the weekly wash. It isfar better to do one room complete at a time than to have a whole floortorn up at once. Just because it is sweeping day is no reason forturning the family into a whole flock of Noah's doves, with no placefor the soles of their feet. It is very easy to transform black Fridayinto good Friday by a little judicious manipulation of the householdhelm. The cleaning, in addition to the routine work, is about allFriday can hold, without crowding. A few anxious thoughts for themorrow's baking will provide all things necessary to it, so there willbe no delay about commencing it; for--

SATURDAY

Saturday Mrs. Grundy devotes to providing for the wants of the innerman. The heaviest part of the day's work is the preparation of foodfor two or three days. Then the refrigerator must have its secondcleaning, and the pantry, too, probably requires renovating by thistime. Entries must be cleaned, a second tour of inspection of thecellar made, and the house put in trim for the "day that comes betwixta Saturday and Monday. "

HOUSE CLEANING

This is not the domestic bugbear it used to be, when one mighty spasmof cleanliness shook the house from garret to cellar and threw itsinmates into a fever of discomfort and dismay. The modernhouse-cleaning season is one of indolence and ease compared with whatit once was, when not only the cleaning and living problem, but the manproblem as well, had to be solved; when the master sighed for a spot insome vast wilderness, vaguely wondering, as he dined lunch-counterfashion and then gingerly wound his weary way through a labyrinth offurniture, boxes, and rolls of carpet to his humble couch set up behindthe piano or in some other unlikely place, if marriage were a failure, while contact with the business end of a tack gave point to histhoughts. No, indeed! The spring and autumn of his discontent aremade glorious summer now by the more civilized system which, beginningat the attic and working downward, cleans one room, or perhaps two at atime, as a day's work, restoring everything to order before a newattack is made. 

PREPARATION

The task of cleaning a house in which the regular work issystematically carried on is not so very arduous, and follows thegeneral plan of the weekly cleaning. Before the real work begins havea general overhauling and weeding out of cubbies, boxes, and trunks, scrub out drawers and reline with clean paper, and cleanclothespresses, wardrobes, and closets. In the spring, there will befurs and flannels to shake, brush, and put away, and in the fall, summer clothing. Before the spring cleaning the stoves must be takendown and cleaned out, stovepipes cleaned and rubbed with boiled oil toprevent rust, and both put away in the attic. Chimneys, too, must becleaned, and if the heating is by furnace, it should be put in orderand all its parts swept free from soot, covering the registers duringthe operation. This is better done in the spring so the summer windscannot scatter the dust and soot through the house. The supply of coaland wood for the ensuing year should be put into the cellar, and thenthe preliminaries are over. The fall cleaning must be delayed untilthe canning and pickling are all done, and the "busy, curious, thirstyfly" is pretty well extinct. Now is the best time for painting, whitewashing, papering, and other decorating and repairing. If done inthe spring, its freshness is bound to be more or less spoiled byinsects during the summer, be as careful as one may. 

CLEANING DRAPERIES, RUGS, CARPETS

The first step in the real cleaning is to take down draperies, shakewell, hang out on the line, right side under, and beat out the dustwith a dog- or riding-whip. Follow with a hard brushing on the wrongside and wipe down quickly with a damp cloth, following the nap, ifthere is one. Lace and muslin curtains are repaired, if necessary, andlaundered, or sent to the cleaner. If only slightly soiled, they canbe freshened by folding, after shaking, and sprinkling all the foldsthickly with magnesia. Let this remain three or four days and thenbrush out thoroughly. Next rugs and carpets come out and are wellswept on both sides, then hung on the line and beaten with a flail--oneof two feet of rubber hose partially slipped over a round stick andsplit lengthwise into four parts, being the best--until no vestige ofdust remains. Heavy carpets, Brussels, velvets, Wiltons, Axminsters, and Moquettes, need not be lifted oftener than every two or threeyears, unless the presence of moths about bindings, corners, or seamsis detected, when they must come up at once. The ravage of moths canbe prevented by drawing the tacks occasionally, turning back the edgeof the carpet half a yard or so, laying a cloth wrung out of hot wateron the wrong side, and pressing with a very hot iron, holding the ironon until the cloth is dry and then moving on until all the edges arethoroughly steamed and dried. This will not injure the carpet andkills the eggs and larvae. Follow this up by washing the floor withhot borax water, dry thoroughly, sprinkle with black pepper, and retackthe carpet. Sometimes small pieces of cotton batting dipped inturpentine and slipped under the edges of the carpet will keep themoths away. If there are cracks at the juncture of baseboard andfloor, pour in benzine and fill with plaster of Paris. Three-ply oringrain carpets can be steamed and ironed without removing the tacks. 

CLEANING MATTINGS AND WOODWORK

Mattings must be lifted, shaken, swept, wiped off with a cloth dampenedin borax water, and left on the lawn to sun. No soap should be used onlinoleum, and but little water. Clean by rubbing with a damp clothtill no soil comes off, and polish with a very little linseed oil. Allupholstered furniture should be taken out, covered with a cloth, andthoroughly beaten with a rattan, shaking the cloth as it becomes dusty. Before rugs and carpets go down, walls, woodwork, and floors arecleaned. Walls, if painted, are washed with hot water containing alittle kerosene, a square yard at a time, which is dried before movingon to the next area. Rubbing down with the inside of the crust ofbread a day old will clean papered walls. Painted woodwork is bestcleaned with whiting mixed to a thick cream with cold water, rubbed onwith a cloth wrung out of hot water, following the grain of the wood. Wash off the whiting with a second cloth, rub dry, and polish withflannel. Painted walls may also be treated in this way, beginning atthe top and working down. If soap is preferred, use the suds, rubbingthe soap itself only on very much soiled spots. Kerosene in the waterobviates the necessity for soap. Enameled paint requires only a clothwrung out of hot water, followed by a rubbing with a dry cloth. Avoidusing water on hardwood, boiled oil or turpentine and oil being bestfor woodwork and floors. Now is the time to scrub floors, if pine, with hot borax suds, and to rewax or varnish hardwood floors if theyrequire it. 

CLEANING BEDS

Beds come to pieces and go out of doors, where the slats are washedwith carbolic-acid water, and springs and woodwork thoroughly brushedand sprinkled with corrosive sublimate and alcohol, if traces of bugsare found. If the beds are enameled, they are washed entire, with theexception of the brass trimmings, with hot water and ammonia, and wipeddry. Bedclothes, mattresses, and pillows are hung out and sunned, mattresses and pillows both beaten, and the former carefully brushed, going into each tuft and crevice. Shades which have become soiled atthe bottom can be reversed. House cleaning is not an unmixed joy, butif done systematically, one room at a time, it is soon accomplished andbecomes a part of that biography which all housekeeping is at last--abiography which should be written in characters of gold, its pagesrichly illumined with crosses, and palms, and laurels, and at its end ajeweled crown bearing the inscription:

 "She hath done what she couldn't!"

CHAPTER XIV

HIRED HELP

The difficulty of dealing with the subject of hired help is about asgreat as the dealing with the help herself, who is so often not a helpat all. The appellation is the one insisted upon by the greatunorganized union of the "household tramp, " whose pride cannot endurethe stigma implied in the name "servant, " and who has never learnedthat we, in all walks of life, are more or less servants--servants ofFame, or Ambition, or Duty, or Country, or Business. The maid who gavenotice on the spot because she was introduced by the daughter of thehouse to her mother as "your new servant, " seems to be the incarnationof that spirit of independence which is loosening the very foundationsof our national structure. England has servants; Germany has servants, but America has help. Let us then, like Agag of old, walk delicately, remembering that help, by any other name, is even more surrounded bythorns. 

THE GENERAL HOUSEMAID

It is almost impossible to get a competent girl for general houseworkthese days, and viewed in the light of past experiences with the ablebut unwilling, the willing but unable, the stupid, the dishonest, theignorant servant within our gates, with the very occasional good geniusof the kitchen to leaven the lump of incompetency, we are sorelytempted to give up the struggle and do our own work, feeling that thetime and strength so consumed are more than compensated for by thepeace of mind which comes with the cessation of hostilities. But aftera breathing spell we are generally ready for another joust, and thestruggle goes on as of yore. Shops and factories have greatly reducedthe supply of servants, and of these so many specialize as cooks, waitresses, and nurses that we really have a very small choice whenseeking an all-round maid--one who has some knowledge and experience ofthe different branches of housecraft. And right here we encounteranother difficulty: ways of living and methods of household managementare so diverse that a girl might be considered competent by onemistress and entirely the reverse by another. Our servants are more orless as we make them, and it is frequently the case that the mistressherself needs a course of instruction before she is capable of rightlyinstructing her maid--a course which shall embrace not onlyhousewifery, but the cultivation of self-command, patience, wisdom, consideration, and that power which comes only with knowledge. The rawforeigner with whom she often has to deal is so entirely ignorant oflife as we know it; her training in field and peasant's cottage has inno way prepared her for the refined home with its dainty furnishingsand food, and the difficulty of understanding and being understood addsto the perplexities of the slow and undeveloped mind. Such a servantis really nothing but a child, so far as her faculties are concerned, and should be treated as one until experience and training shall enableher to put away childish things. Like most children, she is animitator; let it be our care that we set only a worthy example beforeher. She is quick to recognize inconsistency or unfairness, and toseize an opportunity to get the upper hand. Try to treat her with afirmness which is not arbitrary, and a kindness and consideration whichare not familiarity. Make her feel that she is an entity, a person ofplace and importance in making home comfort, and a good bit of thatsubtle antagonism which seems to exist between mistress and maid willbe gradually smoothed away. Don't wonder if she has the bluesoccasionally; you have them yourself. Don't be worried if she is atrifle slow; help her to systematize and so shorten her labors. If shecracks and breaks your dishes show her how to handle and care for them, with a timely word about avoiding undue haste. If she wants to docertain things in her own way, let her, provided it is not a bad way, until you can prove to her that yours is better. You know there areother ways than yours--good ones, too. Study her as you would arefractory engine; if she runs off the track, or doesn't run at all, orhas a hotbox or any other creature failing learn the cause and remedyit if you can. She is human, like yourself, and young too, probably, and needs diversion. Don't begrudge it to her when it is of the rightkind. Like you, she needs rest occasionally, between whiles; make anopportunity for it. She needs good strengthening food; see that shehas it, and if she prefers plain living and high thinking on bread andtea, that's her own lookout. She probably will have strong leaningstoward the jam closet; lock the door and keep the key, and leave nomoney, jewelry, or other valuables carelessly about to tempt her, perhaps beyond her strength. Don't be overnice in your exactions; ifshe is even a fairly good cook, waitress, and laundress, you are indeedblessed among women. Give judicious praise or kindly criticism wheredue; sometimes a warning in time will save nine blunders. While she isunder your roof and a member of your family you are in a measureresponsible for her welfare, moral, spiritual, and physical, and areher natural and lawful protector. She may neither need nor want yourprotection, but let her feel that it is there, none the less. 

HOW TO SELECT A MAID

And now, how shall we find this person to assist us in making domesticlife "one grand, sweet song"--we hope! The usual way is to apply to areputable agency where you will find the better class of girls and bedealt with honestly. An agency of this kind usually keeps on file thereferences of girls offering themselves for service, which will giveyou at least some idea of the qualifications of the maid you mayengage. Many housekeepers advertise in the daily papers or tradesjournals, the advertisement being a concise statement of the location, whether city or country, the kind of service expected, and the wagespaid. A third and usually most satisfactory way of obtaining help isthrough some friend, who can back her recommendation with a guarantee. Having entered your application, decide upon your plan of action in theinterview which will take place when Dame Maid presents herself for themutual inspection--mutual because, though 'tis not hers to "reasonwhy, " she has a perfect right to know what awaits her. Thiscross-examination is somewhat of an ordeal, especially to the novice inthe servant-hiring business. It is essential for the housekeeper toknow just what questions to put to the applicant, what questions tolook for in return, what to tell her of the household regime and of herindividual part in it; in short, she must know her ground and thenstand on it--it is hardly necessary to add, with decision and dignity. The applicant's personal appearance tells something of what she is: ifslovenly, her work would be ditto; if flashy, with cheap finery andgew-gaws--well, she may be honest and reliable, but she may also makeit difficult for you to be mistress in your own house. Be a littlewary of the middle-aged servant; if she is really desirable, she is notapt to be casting about for a position, and besides, she is usually"sot" in her ways. The fact of a girl's looking sullen or moroseshould not militate against her--she may be only shy or embarrassed. If she is impertinent--maybe her former mistress "talked back, " or madetoo great an equal of her. Anyway, be your own ladylike self and shewill probably fall in line. The quiet, steady-looking girl who evincesa willingness to learn is apt to be a safe investment. 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Question her about her housework experience, her ability to do plaincooking and baking, make beds, serve, wash, and iron. She cannotpossibly be an expert along each of these lines, perhaps not on oneeven, but a general working knowledge of all is very desirable. Have acomplete understanding with her at the outset regarding her work, wages, hours of work and of leisure, and breakages. Don't try to putthe best foot forward, though there is no particular harm in pointingout the special advantages she would enjoy in your home, but give her afrank and honest statement of what she may expect. If she asks you, asshe no doubt will, if you have much company, say so, if you have, butadd that you will relieve her as much as you can of the extra workentailed. And don't resent her asking about the size of your family, and about her room, for she would naturally be interested in both. Acomplete understanding at every point may save considerable futuretrouble. The question of a uniform may come up during your talk. Somegirls absolutely refuse to don anything which looks to them like abadge of servitude; if this happens, let it go, because you know it isnot an absolute essential. At the close of the conference ask forreferences. No mistress is obliged to give a reference to herdeparting servant, but if she does so it ought, in all conscience, tobe an honest one. It is a deplorable fact that many housekeepers, either in a desire to be magnanimous, or to avoid a scene or annoyance, give utterly undeserved recommendations, thus opening the way for otherreigns of terror which a little personal application ofdo-as-you-would-be-done-by could have prevented. Investigate thesereferences, either in person or by letter; otherwise you may discoverlater on that they were forged by the girl herself or by some of heraccommodating friends. 

AGREEMENTS

The term of service is determined by an agreement between mistress andmaid. The usual custom is to take the applicant for a week's trial;if, at the expiration of that time, both are satisfied, the arrangementcontinues from week to week, if the payments are weekly. In householdsin which monthly payments are preferred the maid is hired by the month. The agreement entered into is nothing more nor less than a legalcontract, and not to be lightly violated. When serving by the week themaid is entitled to, and must also give, three days' notice; when bythe month a week's notice is required, or if for any reason hermistress wishes her to leave at once, she may pay her one week's wages. If the maid leaves suddenly and without giving notice, in the middle ofher term, she forfeits all claim to wages which have accrued since herlast payment. If discharged unjustly and without sufficient causebefore the expiration of her term, she is entitled to her wages infull; but if discharged without notice because of intoxication, immorality, dishonesty, arrant disobedience, or permanent incapacityfrom illness, she can claim nothing. It is customary with somehousekeepers to start the new maid on a comparatively low salary, withthe promise of an increase of perhaps fifty cents per month, in caseshe proves herself worthy, till the maximum is reached. This is oftenan incentive to good service. 

THE MAID'S LEISURE TIME

Her times of leisure vary somewhat, according to circumstances; but oneweek-day afternoon and evening, and Sunday afternoon and evening ofeach week are usually allowed her, though she may be given only everyother Sunday. If an extra evening can be given her, all well and good. The maid should be able to count on getting away at a certain hour soshe can arrange to meet her friends; and she must also understand thatten o'clock is to see her in the house, that hour being as late as anygirl ought to be out. In homes which employ two maids equal privilegesare granted each, one assuming the work of the other during herabsence. It is a simple matter to arrange for light meals on thecook's day out, and to minimize the serving when the waitress is to beaway. When night dinner is the custom and but one maid employed, sheeither goes from ten until four, leaving her mistress to prepareluncheon, or else, if she is away over the dinner hour, the meals areshifted, with dinner at noon and tea at night. She leaves on Sundayimmediately after the dinner work is done and does not return toprepare tea. If she prefers to spend her leisure time quietly at homereading or sewing, she should be encouraged to do so and not be forcedto go out in self-defense to escape calls for extra work at that time. The mistress has no claim on her maid's "off" hours. 

DRESS AND PERSONAL NEATNESS

The maid's uniform consists of three print gowns, with a gingham apronfor morning wear, and for afternoons a white apron with white collar orkerchief and cuffs, cap, or whatever additional touches her mistressmay prefer. The maid usually buys her own gowns, while her mistressprovides the accessories, which remain her property when the maidleaves. The afternoon dress of one week becomes the morning dress ofthe following. Black is frequently adopted for afternoon wear, butwhatever the dress, insist upon its being washable; woolens absorbodors and perspiration and in time make not only her person but herroom offensive. Issue an edict against frowzy pompadours and"frizzes, " pointing out the necessity for having smooth, neat hair, particularly in the kitchen. Require her to bathe regularly. Thequestion of allowing the maid to use the bathroom must be settledindividually. If she is careful about cleaning the tub and leavingthings in good order, there seems to be no reason why she, who so needsthem, should be deprived of advantages for cleanliness which the restof us enjoy. "Standing on one foot in a slippery washbowl, " footbath, or even larger tub, is a poor substitute. Instruct her about arrangingher clothing at night so it will air. You may even find, if she is ajust-over foreigner, that you will have to introduce her to thenightdress--such things have happened--explaining to her theundesirability of sleeping in underclothing which she has worn all day. 

CARELESSNESS

If a girl is habitually careless about handling the dishes, and breaks, nicks, and cracks result, hold her responsible and deduct from herwages what you consider a fair equivalent for the loss. Such a courseis astonishingly curative sometimes. The painstaking, careful girlseldom injures anything, and the occasional accident may be overlooked. Before your new maid arrives write out an itemized list of allcrockery, silver, glass, and table linen which are to be in constantuse, designating those which are defaced in any way, and go over itwith her every week, holding her responsible for any damaged or missingarticles. 

THE MAID'S ROOM

Remove from the servant's room all traces of its last occupant, and putit in order for the new maid, with the bed freshly made up with cleanblankets, linen, and spread. The room should be comfortably furnishedwith a single enameled bed--the plainer the better and more easilycleaned--an inexpensive dresser and washstand, the bowl, pitcher, etc. , for the latter preferably of the white porcelain enamel ware, acomfortable high-backed rocker, and one common cane-seated chair. Apair of plain white muslin or scrim curtains draped back with a band ofthe same, and plain white covers on washstand and dresser impart acertain air of dainty hominess. A cheap set of hanging shelves forbooks and clock would be a welcome addition. Walls and floor should bepainted, and a colonial rug placed before the bed. Don't give theservant's room the look of a perpetual rummage sale by making it adumping ground for old defaced pictures, furniture, and bric-a-brac. Remember that it is her only haven of rest, and have it restful, ifonly for selfish reasons, for renewed bodily vigor means well-done workand a made-over disposition. When we think of the average servant'sroom, small, stuffy, poorly ventilated, hot in summer, cold in winter, and unattractive to a degree, it ought to bring a blush of shame. Above all, see that the bed is comfortable; for who can blame a tiredgirl for getting out on the "wrong side" of a bed so hard and lumpythat it surely must rise and smite her! Place on the woven wire springa good mattress either all cotton, or of straw with cotton top andbottom. Over this spread one of the washable pads which come for thepurpose, then the sheets--unbleached if one prefers--the inexpensivecolored blankets, and a honeycomb spread. One feather pillow ofaverage size will be sufficient. When two servants occupy a room twosingle beds should be provided. If there is no closet, make atemporary one by means of a shelf and curtain. An attractive roomcarries with it a subtle and refining influence. 

HOW TO TRAIN A MAID

"Set thine house in order, " and have everything--pantry and kitchen inparticular--as you expect your maid to keep it. First impressions aretruly the most lasting, and if she comes into a littered, soiled, untidy kingdom, you may expect her reign to be proportionally lax andher respect for your housekeeping abilities conspicuously absent. Thisis a bad beginning, and then it is not exactly fair to set her to workthe very first thing to bring order from chaos. See that she has allthe tools necessary to her work, replacing broken or useless utensilsand assuring yourself that the cutlery and crockery for her individualtable use are whole and inviting. Show the maid to her room as soon asshe arrives, with instructions to don her working garb; and then beginsthe induction into office, a trying experience to you both, and onewhich should be sufficiently prolonged to enable her to get a good gripof each new duty as it presents itself. Avoid confusing her at thestart with a jumble of instructions, but make haste slowly, givingdirections in a way which she can understand. Introduce her into herworkroom, explain the range and show her how to operate it, point outthe different utensils and their uses and where foods are kept. If shecomes in the morning, her first duty will be the preparation ofluncheon; give her instructions for that meal, what to have, and how toset the table, this being the proper time to go over the list of tablefurnishings with her. Don't embarrass her by being continually at herheels, but give what directions you think necessary and then let herapply her judgment and previous experience to carrying them out. Ifyou find that she has neither, don't be discouraged, for you may beentertaining an angel unawares, but adopt the line upon line, preceptupon precept plan, and the situation will slowly but surely brighten. If she is overstupid in one direction, she may be bright enough in someother to establish a balance. Luncheon and its dishes disposed of, arrange with her about dinner, and after its completion speak about herhour of rising, the preparation of breakfast, etc. And the morning andthe evening were the first day!

THE DAILY ROUTINE

The day's routine of work varies in different households and makes itimpossible for one to offer an infallible system. The keeping of butone servant does not admit of an elaborate mode of living, and on thedays on which the heaviest work--washing and ironing--falls, madamwould do well to assume considerable of the regular work herself, thecare of bedrooms, dusting and putting to rights of living and diningrooms, preparation of lunch, and whatever else seems best. All of thehardest work should be done in the morning, before the first freshnessof maid and day is worn away. After you have established asatisfactory schedule abide by it and oblige your maid to do the same. It soon becomes automatic and is, therefore, accomplished with lessexhaustion of mind and body. The regular day's work is about asfollows: The maid rises an hour or an hour and a half before thebreakfast hour, throws open her bed and window, and goes to thekitchen, where she starts the fire (if a coal range is used), fills andputs on the teakettle, and puts the cereal on to cook. Then she airsout dining and living rooms and hall, brushes up any litter, wipes offbare floors, dusts, closes windows, opens furnace drafts or looks afterstoves, and, leaving tidiness in her wake, sets the table and completesthe preparations for breakfast. The amount of work she can accomplishbefore it is served depends upon herself and upon how elaborate themeal may be. After the main part of the breakfast has been served shemay be excused from the dining room, and takes this time to openbedroom windows and empty slops, after which she has her own breakfast. When the breakfast table has been cleared, the dining room set torights, food taken care of, and utensils put to soak, the mistressinspects pantry and refrigerator, offers suggestions for the disposalof left-overs, arranges with the maid for the day's meals, and makesout the list for grocer and butcher, adding whatever she thinks best tothe list of needed staples already prepared by the maid--tea, sugar, soap, etc. Never leave the entire ordering of supplies to the maid, her part being simply to jot down on a pad hung in the kitchen for thatpurpose a memorandum of such things as need replenishing. When theconference is ended the maid washes the dishes, puts kitchen and pantryin order, fills and cleans lamps, prepares dishes which require slowcooking, makes the beds--unless her mistress prefers to do thisherself--and tidies up bed- and bathrooms. If the living rooms werenot dusted before breakfast, she attends to it now, perhaps sweepingfront porch and steps, and is then ready for the extra work of the day, the cleaning of silver, washing of windows, etc. When the after-lunchwork is disposed of she will probably have an hour or two to herselfbefore it is time to begin preparations for dinner. She should not beinterrupted in her work for this, that, or the other, but allowed to goon with it according to schedule. 

She usually attends the door except on wash day or during extra stressof work. She will, perhaps, object to doing so when her mistress is athome, and may need instruction about slipping on a clean white apron, greeting a caller with civility, presenting a small tray for her card, etc. Initiating her into the mysteries of setting and serving thetable may be a long operation, for the good waitress is usually born, not made. But don't be too exacting; remember that she is not aspecialist and arrange the flowers and add other nice touches yourself, and dispense with elaborateness of serving. Teach her to economizetime by washing dishes between courses when her presence is notrequired in the dining room, and insist upon having meals served atstated hours, being careful that your family respond to the summons tothe table with corresponding punctuality. 

DUTIES OF COOK AND NURSE

Each additional servant complicates the planning of the work. Whenthere are two they are usually cook and waitress, the former havingentire charge of her own special domain, the kitchen, with all thatpertains to it, except, perhaps, the preparation of salads and thewashing of glass, silver, and fine dishes. She does the heavier partof the laundry work and some part of the sweeping, washes windows, takes charge of cellar and pantry, or does such other work as hermistress designates, each duty being plainly specified at the time sheis hired. The tasks of the waitress are more varied. The airing, brushing up, and dusting of the living rooms falls to her share, withthe entire charge of the dining room, serving the table, and washingthe dishes, glass, and silver. She also has charge of the bedrooms, apart of her duties in that connection being to prepare them for thenight, removing spreads and shams, turning down covers, closing blinds, and carrying to each room iced water the last thing before retiring, and hot water the first thing in the morning. She attends the door, cleans silver, wipes off woodwork, and even helps with the mending whenthe family is small. She usually does her own washing, and assistswith the ironing if her mistress so decree. The division of laborbetween cook and waitress is sometimes a delicate matter, and here morethan ever is adherence to rule and routine imperative. The tendencyfor one servant to override the other and more yielding, must beguarded against. When a nurse is to be hired she should be questionedas to her experience in caring for children, and her cleanliness, honesty, truthfulness, morals, and general character carefullyinvestigated. She ought to be fond of children, and young-heartedenough to enter into their little games and joys and sorrows. No maidwhose example is demoralizing to the little ones should have any placein the home. The nurse probably will do the baby's washing, and mayhelp a little here and there about the house, but as a rule she hasnothing to do with the general work. 

SERVANT'S COMPANY

The vexed question of the "lady help's gentleman company" usually hasto be faced by the housekeeper. Since yours is your maid's only homeit is better to allow her to receive her friends there than for her toseek them elsewhere, taking it for granted, of course, that any girlwhom you would be willing to have in your family would have noobjectionable friends. And besides, she is somebody's daughter, youknow. It is to be hoped that the time will come when every maid can beprovided with a sitting room of her own, but until then her friendswill have to be received in your kitchen. Let her feel that they arewelcome out of working hours. A servant of the right kind willappreciate and not abuse this privilege. 

And so on--and so on! After all is said and done one can only give afew hints and suggestions on the servant question, with the wistfulhope that they may help some one to "start right, " for maids may comeand maids may go, but the problem goes marching on. The only way to dowhen it overtakes one is to grapple with it womanfully, for it _will_happen, even in the best regulated families. 

THE END