THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT;

Comprising Information for the

MISTRESS, HOUSEKEEPER, COOK, KITCHEN-MAID, BUTLER, FOOTMAN, COACHMAN, VALET, UPPER AND UNDER HOUSE-MAIDS, LADY'S-MAID, MAID-OF-ALL-WORK, LAUNDRY-MAID, NURSE AND NURSE-MAID, MONTHLY, WET, AND SICK NURSES, ETC. ETC. 

ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMORANDA;

WITH A HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN, PROPERTIES, AND USES OF ALL THINGSCONNECTED WITH HOME LIFE AND COMFORT. 

BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON. 

 Nothing lovelier can be found In Woman, than to study household good. --MILTON. 

Published Originally ByS. O. Beeton in 24 Monthly Parts1859-1861. 

First Published in a Bound Edition 1861. 

PREFACE. 

I must frankly own, that if I had known, beforehand, that this bookwould have cost me the labour which it has, I should never have beencourageous enough to commence it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which Ihad seen brought upon men and women by household mismanagement. I havealways thought that there is no more fruitful source of familydiscontent than a housewife's badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Menare now so well served out of doors, --at their clubs, well-orderedtaverns, and dining-houses, that in order to compete with theattractions of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquaintedwith the theory and practice of cookery, as well as be perfectlyconversant with all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortablehome. 

In this book I have attempted to give, under the chapters devoted tocookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the_ingredients_, a plain statement of the _mode_ of preparing each dish, and a careful estimate of its _cost_, the _number of people_ for whom itis _sufficient_, and the time when it is _seasonable_. For the matter ofthe recipes, I am indebted, in some measure, to many correspondents ofthe "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, " who have obligingly placed at mydisposal their formulas for many original preparations. A large privatecircle has also rendered me considerable service. A diligent study ofthe works of the best modern writers on cookery was also necessary tothe faithful fulfilment of my task. Friends in England, Scotland, Ireland, France, and Germany, have also very materially aided me. I havepaid great attention to those recipes which come under the head of "COLDMEAT COOKERY. " But in the department belonging to the Cook I havestriven, too, to make my work something more than a Cookery Book, andhave, therefore, on the best authority that I could obtain, given anaccount of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which weuse as food. I have followed the animal from his birth to his appearanceon the table; have described the manner of feeding him, and of slayinghim, the position of his various joints, and, after giving the recipes, have described the modes of carving Meat, Poultry, and Game. Skilfulartists have designed the numerous drawings which appear in this work, and which illustrate, better than any description, many important andinteresting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not without value. 

Besides the great portion of the book which has especial reference tothe cook's department, there are chapters devoted to those of the otherservants of the household, who have all, I trust, their duties clearlyassigned to them. 

Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the"Management of Children"----"The Doctor, " the latter principallyreferring to accidents and emergencies, some of which are certain tooccur in the experience of every one of us; and the last chaptercontains "Legal Memoranda, " which will be serviceable in cases of doubtas to the proper course to be adopted in the relations between Landlordand Tenant, Tax-gatherer and Tax-payer, and Tradesman and Customer. 

These chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully entitled toconfidence; those on medical subjects by an experienced surgeon, and thelegal matter by a solicitor. 

I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I havereceived during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I haveexpended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymenand countrywomen. 

ISABELLA BEETON. 

GENERAL CONTENTS

CHAP. 

I. --THE MISTRESS. 

2. --THE HOUSEKEEPER. 

3. --ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN. 

4. --INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY. 

5. --GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS. 

6. --RECIPES. 

7. --THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES. 

8. --RECIPES. 

9. --SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. --GENERAL REMARKS. 

10. --RECIPES. 

11. --VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 

12. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS. 

13. --RECIPES. 

14. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB. 

15. --RECIPES. 

16. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG. 

17. --RECIPES. 

18. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF. 

19. --RECIPES. 

20. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS. 

21. --RECIPES. 

22. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME. 

23. --RECIPES. 

24. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. 

25. --RECIPES. 

26. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 

27. --RECIPES

28. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES. 

29--RECIPES. 

30. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONERY, ICES, AND DESSERT DISHES. 

31. --RECIPES. 

32. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. 

33. --RECIPES. 

34. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES. 

35. --RECIPES. 

36. --GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES. 

37. --RECIPES. 

38. --INVALID COOKERY. 

39. --RECIPES. 

40. --DINNERS AND DINING. 

41. --DOMESTIC SERVANTS. 

42. --THE REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD. 

43. --THE DOCTOR

44. --LEGAL MEMORANDA

ANALYTICAL INDEX. 

NOTE. --Where a "_p_" occurs before the number for reference, the_page_, and not the paragraph, is to be sought. 

Accidents, injuries, &c. Remarks on 2578Agreements 2705-7Alexanders 1108Alkalis 2654Allium, the genus 1129Allspice 438Almond, the 1219 Bitter 1220 Cake 1752 Cheesecakes 1219 Flowers 1316 Icing for cakes 1735 Paste, for second-course dishes 1220 Pudding, baked 1221 Puddings, small 1222 Puffs 1223 Soup 110 Tree 110, 1487 Uses of the Sweet 1221Almonds, and raisins 1605 Husks of 1222Anchovy, the 226 Butter 1637 Butter or paste 227 Paste 228 Sauce 362 Toast 228Anchovies, fried 226 Potted 227Animals, period between birth and maturity 92 Quality of the flesh of 93-5 Saxon names of 709 Tails of 640 Tongues of 675Apoplexy 2634-6Apple, the 111 Charlotte 1420 Charlotte aux pommes 1418 an easy method of making 1419 Cheesecakes 1226 Constituents of the 1229 Custard, baked 1389 Dumplings, baked 1225 boiled 1227 Fritters 1393 Ginger 1424, 1516 Jam 1517 Jelly 1518-19 clear 1396 or marmalade 1395 Pudding, baked, rich 1228 more economical 1229 very good 1231 boiled 1232 iced 1290 rich, sweet 1230 Sauce, brown 364 for geese or pork 363 Snow 1401 Snowballs 1235 Soufflé 1402 Soup 111 Tart, creamed 1234 or pie 1233 Tourte or cake 1236 Trifle 1404 Universally popular 1236 Uses of the 1225-6Apples, à la Portugaise 1398 And rice 1400 a pretty dish 1397 Buttered 1390 Compote of 1515 Dish of 1603 Flanc of 1391-2 Ginger 1424 Ices 1394 In red jelly 1399 Stewed, and custard 1403 To preserve in quarters (imitation of ginger) 1520Apprentices 2724Apricot, cream 1405 Jam or marmalade 1522 Pudding 1238 Qualities of the 1239 Tart 1239Apricots, compote of 1521 Flanc of 1406Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops 1738 Blancmange 1407Arrowroot, Manufacture of 387, 1240 Pudding, baked or boiled 1240 Sauce for puddings 1356 To make 1855 What Miss Nightingale says of 1855Arsenic 2656Artichoke, composite or composite flowers of 1080 Constituent properties of the 1083 Jerusalem 1086 Uses of the 1084Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1082 A l'Italienne 1083 Fried 1081 Jerusalem, boiled 1084 mashed 1085 soup 112 with white sauce 1086 To boil 1080Asparagus, ancient notion of 114 Boiled 1087 Island 1087 Medicinal uses of 1088 Peas 1088 Pudding 1089 Sauce 365 Soup 113-14Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366Attestation to wills 2750

Bachelor's omelet 1462 Pudding 1241Bacon, boiled 804 Broiled rashers of 803 Curing of 822 and keeping it free from rust 806-9 in the Devonshire way 821 in the Wiltshire way 805 Fried rashers of, and poached eggs 802Bain-Marie 430Bakewell pudding, very rich 1242 Plainer 1243Ball suppers _pp. _ 957-8Bandoline, to make 2255Bantam, the 939Barbel, the 229 To dress 229Barberries, in bunches 1523Barberry, description of the 1245 Tart 1245Barley, 116 Gruel 1856 Soup 116 Sugar 1524 Water, to make 1857Baroness pudding 1244Basil 173Baths and fomentations, remarks on 2599 Cold 2603 Heat of 2600 Warm and hot bath 2601Batter pudding, baked 1246 with fruits 1247 boiled 1248 orange 1249Bay or laurel, varieties of 180 Consecrated by priests 512Bean, haricot, the 1120Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor 1092 French 1090 Broad, à la poulette 1093 French mode of cooking 1091 Haricots and minced onions 1121 blancs à la maitre d'hôtel 1120 blancs, or white haricots 1119 and lentils 1119 Nutritive properties of 1092 Origin and varieties of 1093Béchamel, or French white sauce 367 Maigre, or without meat 368 Sauce 406Beef, aitchbone of, boiled 607 to carve an _p. _ 316 A la mode 601-2 Baked 598-9 Baron of 679 Bones, broiled 614 Brisket of, à la Flamande 649 to carve a _p. _ 317 to stew 649 Broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 oyster sauce 613 Cake 610 Carving _p. _ 316 Collared 617 Collops 18 minced 619 Curried 620 Different seasons for 611 Dripping, to clarify 621-2 Fillet of roast, larded 623 French 649 Frenchman's opinion of 626 Fricandeau of 624 Fried, salt 625 Fritters 627 Hashed 628-9 Hung, to prepare 630 Hunter's 631 Kidney, to dress 632-4 Marrow-bones boiled 635 Minced 636 Miriton of 637 Names of the several joints 597 Olives 650-1 Palates, to dress 653 Pickle for 654 Potted 642-3 Qualities of 599 Ragoût of 656 Rib bones of 644 Ribs of, boned and rolled, roast (joint for a small family) 658 roast 657 to carve _p. _ 317 Rissoles 615 Roast 658 Rolled 646 Rolls 647 Round of, boiled 608 miniature 618 to carve a _p. _ 318 Round of, to pickle part of a 655 Rump of, stewed 670 steak 666 Sausages 662 Seasons for 611 Shin of, stewed 671 Sirloin of, roast 659 to carve a _p. _ 317 Sliced and broiled 664 Spiced (to serve cold) 665 Steak, a fried rump 626 and kidney pudding 603 oyster sauce 603 broiled 611 pie 604 pudding, baked 650 rolled, roasted, and stuffed 663 stewed, and celery sauce 667 with oysters 668 with fried potatoes 606 Tea, baked 1860 savoury 1859 to make 1858 Tongue, boiled 673 pickle for 641 to carve a _p. _ 318 to cure a 674-5 to pickle and dress a, to eat cold 676 To salt 660 Dutch way 661Beef-tea, Dr. Christison's 1859 Miss Nightingale's opinion of 1858Beer, table 191Beetroot 1094 Boiled 1094 Pickled 369Benton sauce 370Bequests, legacies, &c. 2744-9Beverages, general observations on 1789, 1806Bills of fare, for January _pp. _ 909-13 February 914-17 March 918-21 April 922-25 May 926-29 June 930-33 July 934-36 August 937-39 September 940-42 October 943-45 November 946-48 December 949-52 ball supper for 60 persons _p. _ 957 ball supper, cold collation, for a summer entertainment for 70 or 80 persons _p. _ 958 breakfasts 959 game dinner for 30 persons _p. _ 953 luncheons and suppers _p. _ 959 menu, service à la Russe _pp. _ 954-5 picnic for 40 persons 960 suppers _p. _ 956Birds, general observations on 917-25Biscuit powder 1737Biscuits, arrowroot 1738 Cocoa nut 1740 Crisp 1741 Dessert 1742 Lemon 1743 Macaroons 1744 Ratafias 1745 Remarks on 1712-15 Rice 1746 Rock 1747 Savoy 1748 Seed 1749 Simple, hard 1750 Soda 1751Bites and stings, general remarks on 2609 of insects 2610-11 of snakes 2612 Of dogs 2613Blackcock, heathcock, &c. 1019 Roast 1019 To carve a 1054Blancmange 1408 Arrowroot. 1407 Cheap 1409 Lemon 1442 Rice 1476Bleeding, from the nose 2607 Operation of 2605-6Blonde, to clean 2265Blood, spitting of 2608Boar's head, importance of the 815 The Westphalian 787Bones, dislocation of 2614 Fracture of 2615Bonnets 2244Books of account 2731Boots, polish for 2240-1 Bottled fresh fruit 1542-3 with sugar 1544 Boudin, à la reine 961 Brain, concussion of, stunning 2623 Brandy, cherry 1526 Lemon 460 Orange 1826 Varieties of 1328Bread, and bread-making 1668-1703 And-butter fritters 1410 pudding 1255 Crumbs, fried 424 Fried for borders 426 Indian-corn-flour 1721 Making in Spain 1776 Origin of 117 Properties of 1252 Pudding, baked 1250 boiled 1252 brown 1253 miniature 1254 very plain 1254 Rice 1720 Sauce 371-2 Sippets of, fried 425 Soda 1722Bread, soup 117 To make a peck of good 1719 To make good home-made 1718 To make yeast for 1716Breakfasts _p. _ 959, _par_ 2144-6Breath, shortness of, or difficult breathing 2670Bride-cake, rich 1753Bridles 2218Brill, the 230 To carve a _pp. _ 175-6Brilla soup 166Brocoli, boiled 1095Broth, calf's-foot 1862 Chicken 1863 Eel 1866 Mutton to make 1872 Mutton to quickly make 1873Brown roux for thickening gravies 525Browning, for sauces and gravies 373 For stock 108Bruises, lacerations, and cuts 2617 Treatment of 2618Brushes, to wash 2250Brussels sprouts, boiled 1096Bubble-and-squeak 616Bullock's heart, to dress a 615Buns, light 1731 Plain 1729 To make good plain 1730 Victoria 1732Burns and scalds 2619 Treatment of the first class of 2620 Treatment of the second class 2621 Treatment of the third class 2622Butler, care of plate and house 2162 Duties of the, at breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and dessert 2157-9 luncheon, in the drawing-room 2161 Lights, attention to 2160 Wine, bottling 2167-70 Wine, cellar 2163-5 Wine, fining 2166Butter, anchovy 227, 1637 Antiquity of 1205 Beurre noir, or brown butter (a French sauce) 374 Clarified 375 Colouring of 1636 Curled 1635 Easily digested 1255 Fairy 1636 General observations on 1615-19 How to keep 1635 How to keep fresh 1207 In haste 1206 Maitre d'hôtel 465 Melted 376-7 Melted (the French sauce blanche) 378 Melted made with milk 380 Moulds for moulding fresh butter 1634 Thickened 379 To keep and choose, fresh 1632 To preserve and to choose, salt 1633 What to do with rancid 1208Cabbage, the 118 Boiled 1098 Colewort, or wild 1099 Green kale, or borecole 1097 Kohl-Rabi, or turnip 1095 Qualities of the 1169 Red, pickled 499 Red, stewed 1099 Savoy, and Brussels sprouts 1096 Savoy, description of the 140 Soup 118 Tribe and their origin 1098 Turnip tops and greens 1169Cabinet, or chancellor's pudding 1256 Plain, or boiled bread-and-butter pudding 1257Café au lait 1812 Noir 1813Cake, almond 1752 Breakfast, nice 1739 Bride or Christening 1753 Christmas 1754 Cocoa-nut 1740 Economical 1756 Good holiday 1763 Honey 1758 Lemon 1764 Luncheon 1765 Nice useful 1757 Pavini 1771 Plain 1766 Plain for children 1767 Plum, common 1768 Plum, nice 1769 Pound 1770 Queen 1773 Rice 1746, 1772 Saucer, for tea 1774 Savoy 1748, 1782 Scrap 1779 Seed, common 1775 seed, very good 1776 Snow 1777-8 Soda 1781 Sponge 1783-4 Sponge Small, to make 1785 Tea 1786 Tea to toast 1787 Tipsy 1487 Tipsy an easy way of making 1488 Yeast 1788Cakes, hints on making and baking 1704-11Calf, the 173 Birth of the 893 Breeding of the 858 Fattening the 903 Feeding a 862 General observations on the 845-53 In America 864 Names of the 899 Symbol of Divine power 890 The golden 873 When it should be killed 860Calf's feet, baked or stewed 1861Calf's feet, boiled with parsley and butter 860Calf's feet, broth 1862Calf's feet, fricasseed 861 jelly 1416 Head, à la Maitre d'hôtel 864 boiled 876-7 collared 862 club 867 fricasseed 863 hashed 878 soup 167 to carve a 913 Liver and bacon 881 aux fines herbes 880 larded and roasted 882 Udder, for French forcemeats 421Calomel 2658Camp-vinegar 381Canary-pudding 1258Candlesticks 2311Cannelons, or fried puffs 1417Caper-sauce, for boiled mutton 382 For fish 383 Substitute for 384Capercalzie, the 1026Capers 383Capsicums, pickled 385Carbonate of soda 1765Carp, the 242 Age of the 243 Baked 242 Stewed 243 Carpet sweeping 2312 Carriages 2225-9 Carrot, the 121 Constituents of the 1101 Jam, to imitate apricot preserve 1525 Nutritive properties of the 1102 Origin of the 1100 Pudding, boiled or baked 1259 Seed of the 1103 Soup 120-1 Varieties of the 1172Carrots, boiled 1100 Sliced 1103 Stewed 1102 To dress in the German way 1101Carving, beef _p. _ 316 aitchbone of _p. _ 316 brisket of _p. _ 317 ribs of _p. _ 317 round of _p. _ 318 sirloin of _p. _ 317 Blackcock 1054 Brill _pp. _ 175-6 Calf's head 913 Codfish _p. _ 174 Duck 999 wild 1055 Fowl 1000-1 Goose 1002 Grouse 1058 Ham 843 Hare 1056 Lamb 764-5 Landrail 1063 Mutton, haunch of 759 leg of 760 loin of 761 mutton, saddle of 762 shoulder of 763 Partridge 1057 Pheasant 1059 Pigeon 1063 Plover 1066 Pork 842 leg of 844 Ptarmigan 1064 Quail 1065 Rabbit 1004 Salmon _p. _ 175 Snipe 1060 Soles _p. _ 175 Sucking-pig 842 Teal 1067 Tongue _p. _ 318 Turbot _p. _ 175 Turkey 1005 Veal 854 breast of 912 fillet of 914 knuckle of 915 loin of 916 Venison, haunch of 1061 Widgeon 1068 Woodcock 1062Cauliflower, description of the 1105 Properties of the 1151Cauliflowers, à la sauce blanche 1105 Boiled 1104 With Parmesan cheese 1106Cayenne, varieties of 362 Vinegar or essence of cayenne 386Celery, indigenous to Britain 122 Origin of 1109 Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387 (a more simple recipe) 388 Soup 122 Stewed 1110 à la crême 1108 with white sauce 1109-10 To dress 1107 Various uses of 441, 1107 Vinegar 389Champagne 1832 Cup 1832Chanticleer and his companions 947Chantilly soup 123Char, the 243Charlotte apple, very simple 1420 Aux pommes, an easy method of making 1418-19 Russe 1421Cheese 1638 Cayenne 1642 Cream 1622 Damson 1536 Decomposed 1638 Fondue 1643 Brillat Savarin's 1644 General observations on 1620-2 Macaroni, as usually served with 1645-7 Mode of serving 1640 Pork 799 _Paragraph_ Pounded 1648 Raisin 1587 Ramakins, to serve with 1649-50 Sandwiches 1641 Scotch rarebit 1651 Smoking 1640 Stilton 1639 Toasted, or Scotch rarebit 1651 Welsh 1652Cheesecakes, almond 1219 Apple 1226 Lemon 1292Cherokee or store sauce 528Cherries, dried 1527 Morello, to preserve 1561 To preserve in syrup 1529Cherry, brandy 1526 Jam 1528 Sauce for sweet puddings 1357 Tart 1261 Tree in Rome 1561 Varieties of the 1261Chervil, peculiarities of 129Chestnut sauce, brown 391 for fowls or turkey 390 Spanish, soup 124 Uses of the 124Chicken, boiled 938 Broth 1863 Curried 942 Cutlets 926 French 927 Fricasseed 945 Or fowl patties 928 pie 929 Potted 930 Pox, or glass-pox 2538-42 Salad 931Chickens, age and flavour of 931Chili vinegar 393China chilo 712Chocolate, box of 1502 Cream 1430 History of 1430 Soufflé 1427 To make 1807Cholera, and autumnal complaints 2624Christmas, cake 1754 Plum-pudding, very good 1328 Pudding, plain, for children 1327Christopher North's sauce for game or meat 394Chub, the 243Churning 2365Churns 2362 Cleaning the 2368Cinnamon-tree, the 524Citron, uses of the 1329 Varieties of the 1436Claret cup 1831 Varieties of 1831Cleanings, periodical 2326-9Cleanliness, advantages of 2689Clothes, cleaning 2239Clove, derivation of the name 436 Tree 367Coach-house and stables 2204Coach-house and stables, furniture of the 2209 Harness-room 2208 Heat of stables 2205 Horse, the 2203 Stalls 2207 Ventilation of stables 2206Coachman, carriages 2225-9 Choosing horses 2231 Driving 2232 Duties of the 2210 Pace of driving 2230 Whip, the 2233Cock-a-Leekie 134Cocoa and chocolate, various uses of 1807 To make 1816Cocoa-nut, the 125 Cakes or biscuits 1740 Soup 125Cod, fecundity of the 241 Food of the 237 Habitat of the 239 Method of preserving 233 Season for fishing for the 240 Sounds 234 Tribe, the 231Codfish, the 231 A la Béchamel 239 créme 233 A l'Italienne 241 A la maitre d'hôtel 240 Curried 237 Head and shoulders of 232 to carve _p. _ 174 Pie 235-6 Preserving 233 Salt, (commonly called salt fish) 233 Sounds 233 en poule 234 To choose 232Coffee, Café au lait 1812 Café noir 1813 Essence of 1808 Miss Nightingale's opinion on 1865 Nutritious 1864 Plant 1811 Simple method of making 1811 To make 1810 To roast 1809Cold-meat cookery:-- Beef, baked 598-9 bones, broiled 614 broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 oyster sauce 613 bubble-and-squeak 616 cake 610 curried 620 fried salt 625 fritters 627 hashed 628-9 minced 636 miriton of 637 olives 651 potted 613 ragoût 656 rissoles 615 rolls 647 sliced and broiled 664 stewed, and celery sauce 667 with oysters 668 Calf's head, a la maitre d'hôtel 864 fricasseed 863 hashed 878 Chicken, cutlets 927 or fowl patties 928 potted 930 salad 931 Duck, hashed 932 stewed and peas 935 turnips 937 wild, hashed 1020 ragoût of 1021 Fish, and oyster pie 257 cake 258 cod, à la Béchamel 239 à la crême 238 curried 237 pie 235-6 salmon, curried 305 scallop 350-1 turbot, à la crême 341 au gratin 342 fillets of, baked 339 à l'Italienne 340 Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962 boudin, à la Reine 961 croquettes of 953-4 fricasseed 946 fried 947-8 hashed 955 Indian fashion 957 Indian dish of 959 minced 956 à la Béchamel 950 or chicken, curried 942 ragoût 951 scollops 658 sauté, with peas 960 Game, hashed 1023 Goose, hashed 967 Hare, broiled 1029 hashed 1030 Lamb, hashed, and broiled bladebone 749 Mutton, baked minced 703 broiled and tomato sauce 710 collops 731 curried 713 cutlets 714 dormers 715 haricot 718 hashed 719 hodge-podge 720 pie 733 ragoût of neck 736 toad in hole 743 Pork, cheese 796 cutlets 796 hashed 801 Turkey, croquettes of 987 fricasseed 988 hashed 989 Veal, baked 856 cake 859 collops, Scotch 870-1 curried 865 fillet of, au Béchamel 883 loin of, au Béchamel 887 minced 889-92 olive pie 895 patties, fried 896 ragout of 900 rissoles 901 rolis 902 tête de veau en tortue 911 Venison, hashed 1050Cold, to cure a 2625 On the chest 2626College pudding 1263Collops, cooking 871 Scotch 870 Scotch white 871Combs, to clean 2251Compote of, Apples 1515 Apricots 1521 Damsons 1537 Figs, green 1541 Gooseberries 1515 Greengages 1551 Oranges 1565 Peaches 1572Compotes, to make syrup for 1512Confectionary, general observations on 1508Consommé, or white stock for many sauces 395Constructive notices 2699Convulsions or fits 2519-22Cook, duties of the cook, kitchen, and scullery-maids 79 Early rising 80 First duty of the 81 General directions to the 75 duties of the 82-4Cookery, cleanliness of utensils used in 72 Excellence in the art of 78 Explanation of French terms used in 87 Introduction to 76 Measures used in 77Copper 2659Coriander plant, the 174Corks, with wooden tops 446Corrosive sublimate 2657Cow, cheese 1652 Heel, fried 639 stock for jellies 1412 Pox, or vaccination 2543-6 or variola 906Cows, cost of keep for 2370Cowslip wine 1817Crab, hot 245 Sauce, for fish 396 To dress 244 Tribe, the 245Crape, to make old look like new 2277Crayfish, the 246Crayfish, how preserved 193 Potted 247 Soup 193Cream, à la Valois 1422 Apricot 1405 Chocolate 1430 Devonshire 1630 Ginger 1432 Italian 1437 Lemon 1443 economical 1444 or custards 1446 very good 1445 Noyeau 1452 Orange, Seville 1464 sweet 1463 Peculiarities of 1385 Raspberry 1475 Sauce for fish or white dishes 397 Stone, of tous les mois 1483 Swiss 1485 To make ice fruit 1555 Vanilla 1490 Whipped 1492Creams, general observations on 1385Croquettes of, fowl 953-4 Rice 1477Croup 2568 Symptoms of 2569 Treatment of 2570-3Crumpets 1728Crust, butter, for boiled puddings 1213 Common, for raised pies 1217 Dripping, for kitchen puddings and pies 1214 For fruit tarts, very good 1210 Lard or flead 1218 Pâté brisée, or French, for raised pies 1216 Short, common 1212 good 1211 Suet, for pies and puddings 1215Cucumber, antiquity of the 127, 402 Chate 1114 Geographical distribution of the 1111 Indigestible 1152 Properties and uses of the 1113 Sauce 398 white 400 Soup 127 Vinegar (a very nice addition to salads) 491Cucumbers, à la poulette 1112 Fried 1113 For winter use 402 Pickled 399 Preserving (an excellent way) 403 Stewed 1114 with onions 1115 To dress 1111Curds and whey 1629Currant, dumplings 1264 Fritters 1429 Jam, black 1530 red 1532 Jelly, black 1531 red 1533 white 1534 Pudding, black or red 1266 boiled 1265 Red, and raspberry tart 1267Currants, iced 1558 Uses of 1266 Zante, description of 1264Curry powder 449Custard, apple, baked 1389 Boiled 1423 Creams, or lemon 1446 Pudding, baked 1268 boiled 1269 Sauce for sweet puddings or tarts 404 Tartlets, or Fanchonnettes 1315Cutlets, chicken 926 French 927 Invalid's 1865 Lamb 747 Mutton 732 Italian 723 of cold 714 Pheasant 1040 Pork 796-8 Salmon 306 Sauce for 513 Veal 866 à la Maintenon 868 Cygnet, the 998

Dace, the 243Dairy, the 2358 Butter, colouring of 2366 milk 2368 washing 2367 Churning 2365 Churns 2362 Cleaning the churn, &c. 2368 Cows, cost of keep for 2370 Devonshire system 2369 Hair sieve 2360 Maid, charge of dairy produce 2371 duties of the 2357 Milk, dishes 2361 general management of 2364 pails 2359 Situation of the 2363Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280Damson, the 1270 A very nice preserve 1539 Cheese 1536 Jam 1538 Pudding 1271 Tart 1270Damsons, baked for winter use 1535 Compote of 1537 To preserve, or any other kind of plums 1540Darioles, à la vanille 1428Date, the 1605Debts 2755 Estate chargeable with 2748Decanters, to clean 2198, 2336Deer, the 1049 Fallow 1050 Roebuck 1051Deer, stag 1051Delhi pudding 1272Dentition 2509Dessert, biscuits 1742 Dishes 1598 general remarks on 1509Devonshire, cream 1630 Junket 1631Diarrhoea 2574-7Dilapidations 2718Dinners, and dining 1879-86 A la Russe 2137-8 menu p. 955 Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18 persons, from January to December _pp. _ 909-52 Bills of fare for game, for 30 persons _p_. 953 Bills of fare for plain family _pp. _ 913, 917, 921, 925, 929, 933, 936, 939, 942, 945, 948, 952Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77Dishes, a hundred different 434Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6Dormers 715Downs, the 725Draught, for summer 1837Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6Drink for warm weather, pleasant 1836Dripping, to clarify 621-2Driving 2232-3Drowning, treatment after 2676Duck, the 932 American mode of capturing the 936 Aylesbury 935 Bow-bill 936 Buenos Ayres 933 Eggs of the 934, 1658 Fattening 936 Hashed 932 Hatching 935 Man and dog, decoy 937 Roast 934 to carve a 999 Rouen 934 Snares in Lincolnshire 937 Stewed, and peas 935-6 and turnips 937 To ragoût a whole 933 Varieties of the 933 Wild, the 934, 937, 1022 hashed 1020 ragoût of 1021 roast 1022 to carve a 1055Ducklings, cooping and feeding 935Dumplings, baked apple 1225 Boiled apple 1227 Currant 1264 Lemon 1294 Marrow 1306 Sussex, or hard 1376 Yeast 1383Dusting 2313Dutch flummery 1426 Sauce, for fish 405 Green, or Hollandaise verte 406

Eel, broth 1866 Haunts of the 254 Pie 253 Productiveness of the 252 Soup 194 Tenacity of life of the 256 The common 250 Tribe, the 249 Voracity of the 253Eels, à la Tartare 255 Boiled 249 Collared 254 En matelote 256 Fried 252 Stewed 250-1Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408 Sauce for salt fish 409 Soup 128 Wine 1867Eggs, à la maitre d'hôtel 1660 A la tripe 1667 Boiled for breakfast, salads, &c. 1656 Buttered 1657 Ducks' 1658 For hatching 927-28 Fried 1659 General remarks on 1623-6 Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461 Oeufs au plat, or au miroir 1661 Plovers' 1662 Poached 1663 with cream 1664 Primitive method of cooking 1658 Quality of 1654-5 Scotch 1666 Snow, or oeufs à la neige 1482 To choose 1654 keep fresh for several weeks 1655 pickle 407 Veneration for 1659 White of 1387 Will crack if dropped in boiling water 1656Elderberry wine 1818Emetic, tartar 2660Empress pudding 1273Endive, à la Française 1118 Genus of 1116 Plant 169 Stewed 1117 To dress 1116Entrée, beef or rump steak, stewed 666 Beef, minced collops 619 Boudin à la reine 961 Calf's head, fricasseed 863 liver, larded and roasted 882 Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4 cutlets 926 or fowl, fricasseed 945 Fowl, hashed 955 sauté with peas 960 Lamb, cutlets 747 sweetbreads and asparagus 757 another way to dress 758 Lark pie 971 Lobster-curry 274Entrée, lobster cutlets 275 patties 277 Oyster patties 289 Sweetbreads, baked 906 fried 907 stewed 908 Veal cutlets 866 à la Maintenon 868 broiled 867 collops 879 fricandeau of 874-5 tendons de veau 909-10 tête de veau 911 Vol au vent 1379Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287Epicurean sauce 410Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 411Everton toffee 1597Exeter pudding 1274Eye, lime in the 2629 Sore 2628 Stye in the 2630 Substances in the 2627Eyelids, inflammation of the 2631

Fairy butter 1636Fanchonnettes, or custard tartlets 1315Fasting 2632Feathers 2284Fennel 412 Sauce for mackerel 412Fig pudding 1275Figs, green, compote of 1541Fish, addendum and anecdote of _p_. 173 And oyster pie 257 As an article of human food 211-18 Average prices 226 Cake 258 General directions for carving _p. _. 174-6 dressing 219-25 rule in choosing 226 In season January to December _pp_. 33-7 Kettle 338 Pie with tench and eels 349 Sauce 413, 512 Scallop 350-1 Soup 192 Stock 192 Supply of, for the London market 353 To smoke at home 820Fishes, natural history of 199-210Fits 2633 Apoplexy 2634-6 and drunkenness, distinctions between 2638 epilepsy, distinctions between 2637 hysterics distinctions between 2639 poisoning by opium, distinctions between 2640 Epilepsy 2641 Fainting 2642 Hysterics 2643 The consequence of dentition 2519-22Fixtures 2713Fleece, the golden 715Floorcloth, to clean 2335Flounder, the 259Flounders, boiled 259 Fried 260Flour, nutritious qualities of 1218Flowers, to preserve cut 2289 after packing 2290Flummery, Dutch 1426Fomentations 2602-3Fondue, Brillat Savarin's 1644 To make 1643Food for infants, and its preparation 2499, 2508Footgear 2245Footman, boot-cleaning 2174 Boot tops 2176 Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3 Brushing clothes 2180 Decanters 2198 Dinner 2185-6 Dinners à la Russe 2188 Dress and livery 2172 During dinner 2191 Early rising 2173 Furniture-rubbing 2179 General duties 2171 Glass-washing 2197-8 Going out with the carriage 2190 Knives 2177 Lamp-trimming 2178 Letters and messages 2200 Luncheon, duties at 2184 Management of work 2196 Manners, modesty, &c. 2190 Opening wine 2192 Pantry 2195 Patent leather boots 2175 Politeness 2201 Receptions and evening parties 2202 Removal of dishes 2193 Salt-cellars 2187 Tea 2194 Waiting at table 2189 Where a valet is not kept 2182Forcemeat, balls for fish soups 414 Boiled calf's udder for French 421 For baked pike 413 cold savoury pies 415 various kinds of fish 416 veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417 French 419-20 Or quenelles, for turtle soup, Soyer's receipt for 423 Oyster 489Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962 And rice croquettes 953 Boiled 938 à la Béchamel 943 to carve 1000 with oysters 944 rice 940 Boudin à la reine 961 Broiled and mushroom sauce 939 Croquettes 954 Curried 941-2 Fricasseed 945-6 Fried 947-8 Hashed 955 an Indian dish 957 House, the 944 stocking the 945 Indian dish of 950 Minced 956 à la Béchamel 950 Pillau 963 Poulet aux cressons 964 à la Marengo 949 Ragoût of 951 Roast 952 stuffed 965 to carve a 1001Sauté, with peas 960 Scallops 958 To bone for fricassees 995Fowls, à la Marengo 949 As food 926 Bantam 939 feather-legged 958 Best to fatten 951 way to fatten 948 Black Spanish 962 Characteristics of health and power 946 Chip in 953 Cochin China 942 Common, or domestic 926 Diseases of, and how to cure 952 Dorking 940 Eggs for hatching 927 Feeding and cooping 930 Game 938 Guinea 970 Hatching 928 Moulting season, the 956 Obstruction of the crop 955 Pencilled Hamburg 965 Poland 941 Scour, or Dysentery in 957 Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the Sultan 963 Sir John Sebright's bantams 961 Sitting 927 Skin disease in 955 Space for 943 Speckled Hamburg 959 "Turn" in 954 Various modes of fattening 948 Young 929Freezing apparatus, method of working the 1290French terms used in cookery 87Fritters, apple 1393 Beef 627 Bread-and-butter 1410 Currant 1429 Indian 1435 Orange 1465 Peach 1469 Pineapple 1472 Plain 1473 Potato 1474 Rice 1478Fruit, dish of mixed 1601 summer 1604 Fresh to bottle 1542-3 Ice creams, to make 1555 In season, January to December _pp. _ 33-7 Spots, to remove 2270 To bottle with sugar 1544 Turnovers 1278 Water ices, to make 1556Fuel 73Fungi, analysis of 1128 Varieties of 1124Furniture cleaning 2307, 2313 Gloss, German 2339 Polish 2308-9Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284

Game, general observations on 1006-18 Hashed 1023 In season, January to December _pp. _ 33-7Garlic 392Geneva wafers 1431Genevese sauce 427German pudding 1279 or Dampfnudeln 1280Gherkins, or young cucumbers 428 Pickled 428Giblet pie 965 Soup 168Gilt frames, to brighten 2337Ginger, apples 1424 Beer 1833 Cream 1432 Preserved 1432 Pudding 1281 Qualities of 407 Wine 1819Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1759 Sunderland 1761 Thick 1769 White 1762Glaize, cold joints to 430 For covering cold hams, tongues, &c 430 Kettle 430Godfrey's cordial 2663

Golden fleece, order of the 708, 715 Pudding 1282Goose, Brent 966 Description of the 968 Egyptian 969 Hashed 967 Roast 968 to carve a 1002 Stuffing for (Soyer's) 505 To dress a green 969 Wild 967Gooseberries, compote of 1546Gooseberry, the 1285 Fool 1433 Indigenous to British isles 429 Jam 1547-8 white or green 1549 Jelly 1550 Pudding, baked 1283Gooseberry pudding, boiled 1284 Sauce for boiled mackerel 429 Tart 1285 Trifle 1434 Vinegar 1820 Wine, effervescing 1821Grapes, qualities of 1601Grates 2298, 2299, 2338Gravy, a quickly-made 434 Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435 Brown 436 without meat 437 Cheap, for minced veal 443 hashes 440 For roast meat 433 venison 444 General stock for 432 Jugged, excellent 441 Kettle 432 Made without meat, for fowls 439 Orange 488 Rich, for hashes and ragouts 438 Roux, for thickening brown 525 white 526 Soup 169 Veal, for white sauces, fricassees 442Greengage jam 1552Greengages, compote of 1551 To preserve dry 1553 in syrup 1554Green sauce 431Greens, boiled, turnip 1169 Turnip-tops, and cabbage 1169Groom, bridles 2218 Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223 Duties of the 2211 Exercising the horses 2213 Feeding the horses 2214-15 Harness 2219 cleaning old 2221-2 paste 2220 Shoeing 2217 Watering horses 2212, 2216 Wheel-grease 2224Grouse, description of the 1625-26 Pie 1024 Roast 1025 Salad 1026 To carve a 1058Gruel, barley 1836 To make 1868Gudgeon, the 261 Habitat of the 261Guinea-fowl, description of the 970 Roast 970Guinea-pig, the 997Gurnet, the 262 To dress 262

Haddock, habitat of the 263 Finnan 266 Weight of the 264Haddocks, baked 263 Boiled 264 Dried 265-6Hair-dressing 2248-9Hair, pomade for 2253-4 To promote growth of 2257 Wash for 2252Ham, fried and eggs 843 Omelet 1457 Potted 814-5 To bake a 810 boil a 811 carve a 843 give it an excellent flavour 812 glaize 430Hams, curing of 822 For curing 816 To cure in the Devonshire way 821 sweet, in the Westmoreland way 818 pickle 819 salt two 817 smoke at home 820Hare, broiled 1029 Extreme timidity of the 1027 Hashed 1030 Jugged 1031-2 Potted 1028 Roast 1027 Soup 170 To carve a 1056 The common 170Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1121 Blancs à la maître d'hôtel 1120 Mutton 716-17-18 To boil blancs, or white haricot beans 1119Harness, cleaning old 2221-2 Paste 2220 Room, the 2208Heart, palpitation of the 2646Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and foxglove 2664Herbs, to dry for winter use 445 Powder of, for flavouring 446 Sweet 417Heradotus pudding 1287Herring, the 268 Red 267Herrings, baked, white 268 Red, or Yarmouth bleaters 267 To choose 268Hessian soup 171Hidden mountain, the 1438Hodge-podge 191, 720Hog, antiquity of the 826, 834 Fossil remains of the 829 General observations on the common 765-95 In England 837 Not bacon 807 Universality of the 833 Wild and domestic 823Holly leaves, to frost 1545Honey cake 1758Hooping cough 2468, 2564 Symptoms of 2565 Treatment of 2566-7Horse, the 2203Horses, choosing 2231 Exercising 2213Horses feeding 2224-15 Watering 2212, 2216Horseradish, the 447 Medical properties of the 1122 Sauce 447 Vinegar 448Hot spice 524Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61 General duties of the 55 Knowledge of cookery 57 Necessary qualifications for a 56Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306, 2323-4 Bright grates 2298 Candlestick and lamp-cleaning 2330 Carpet-sweeping 2312 Chips broken off furniture 2330 Cleanings, periodical 2326-9 Dress of the 2319 Dusting 2313 Duties after dinner 2321 evening 2322 general 2292-4 Fire-lighting 2296-7 Furniture-cleaning 2307, 2313 General directions to the 2300-5 Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning 2316 Laying dinner-table 2314-5 Marble, to clean 2333-4 Needlework 2325 Plate, to clean 2317 rags for daily use 2318 Upper and under 2291 Waiting at table 2320 Recipe, Brunswick black, to make 2295 cement for joining broken glass or china 2331-2 decanters, to clean 2336 floorcloth, to clean 2335 furniture gloss, German 2339 paste 2310 polish 2308-9 gilt frames, to brighten 2337 grates and fire irons, to preserve from rust 2338 polish for bright grates 2299Hunter's pudding 1288Husband and wife 2725-9Hysterics 2643

Ice, fruit creams, to make 1555 Lemon-water 1557 To ice, or glaze pastry 1334Iced, apple pudding 1290 Apples, or apple hedgehog 1394 Currants 1558 Oranges 1564 Pudding 1289Ices, fruit-water, to make 1556 General observations on 1510-11Icing, for cakes, almond 1735 sugar 1736Indian, Chetney sauce 452 Corn-flour bread 1721 Curry powder 449 Fritters 1435 Mustard 450 Pickle 451 Trifle 1436Infant, the 2460-2577Ink-spots, to remove 2271Invalid cookery, rules to be observed in 1841-54Invalid's cutlet, the 1865 Jelly 1869 Lemonade 1870Insurance 2708-10I. O. U. , the 2723Irish stew 721-2Ironing 2282, 2393-6Isinglass 1413Italian, cream 1437 Mutton cutlets 723 Rusks 1733 Sauce, brown 453 white 451

Jam, apple 1517 Apricot, or marmalade 1522 Carrot 1525 Cherry 1528 Currant, black 1530 red 1538 Damson 1538 Gooseberry 1547-8 white or green 1549 Greengage 1552 Omelet 1460 Plum 1580 Raspberry 1588 Rhubarb 1590 and orange 1591 Roly pudding 1291 Strawberry 1594Jaunemange 1439Jelly, apple 1518-19 clear 1396 thick, or marmalade 1395 Bag, how to make 1411 Bottled, how to mould 1414 Calf's foot 1416 Cow-heel, stock for 1412 Currant, black 1531 red 1533 white 1534 General observations on 1386 Gooseberry 1550 Invalid's 1869 Isinglass or gelatine 1413 Lemon 1447 Liqueur 1449 Moulded with fresh fruit 1440 with slices of orange 1455 Of two colours 1441 Open with whipped cream 1453 Orange 1454 Quince 1585 Raspberry 1589 Savoury, for meat pies 521 Stock for, and to clarify it 1411 Strawberry 1484 To clarify syrup for 1415Jewels 2286John dory, the 248 To dress the 248Joints, injuries to 2616Julienne, soup á la 191Junket, Devonshire 1631

Kale brose 132Kegeree 269Ketchup, mushroom 472 Oyster 490 Walnut 535-6Kettles for fish 338Kidney and beefsteak pudding 605 Omelet 1458Kidneys, broiled 724 Fried 725Kitchen, distribution of a 62 Essential requirements of the 70 Fuel for the 73 Ranges 65-6 Maid, duties of the 85 Necessity for cleanliness 72 Scullery maid, duties of the 86 Utensils, ancient and modern 69 list of for the 71Kitchens of the Middle Ages 62Knives 2177Kohl Rabi, or turnip-cabbage 1095

Lace collars, to clean 2266Lady's maid, arranging the dressing room 2246-7 Attention to bonnets 2244 Chausserie, or foot-gear 2245 Dressing, remarks on 2258-9 Duties of the 2213, 2260-2 when from home 2280 evening 2281 Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287 Fashions, repairs, &c 2263 Hairdressing 2248 lessons in 2249 Ironing 2282 Jewels 2286 Linen, attention to 2278 Packing 2279 Rules of conduct 2288 Recipe, bandoline, to make 2255 Blonde, to clean 2265 Brushes, to wash 2250 Combs, to clean 2251 Crape, to make old look like new 2277 Essence of lemon, use of 2274 Flowers, to preserve cut 2289 to revive after packing 2290 Fruit-spots, to remove 2270 Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284 Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials, to remove 2268 from silks or moires, to remove 2269 Hair, a good pomade for the 2253-4 Hair, a good wash for the 2253 to promote the growth of 2257 Lace collars, to clean 2266 Moths, preservatives against the ravages of 2285 Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276 Pomatum, an excellent 2256 Ribbons or silk, to clean 2275 Scorched linen to restore 2283 Stains of syrup or preserved fruit, to remove 2273 To remove ink-spots 2271 Wax, to remove 2272Lamb, as a sacrifice 744 Breast of, and green peas 744 stewed 745 Carving 761 Chops 746 Cutlets and spinach 747 Fore quarter, to carve a 764 to roast a 750 Fry 748 General observations on the 698-702 Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 749 Leg of, boiled 751 roast 752 Loin of, braised 753 Saddle of 754 Shoulder of 755 stuffed 756Lamb's sweetbreads, larded 757 another way to dress 758Lambswool, or lamasool 1227Lamp-cleaning 2178, 2311Lamprey, the 256Landlord and tenant, relations of 2700Landrail or corn-crake 1033 Roast 1033 To carve 1063Lard, to melt 625Larding 828Lark-pie 971Larks, roast 972Laundry, situation of, and necessary apparatus 2373-4 Maid, cleaning and washing utensils 2386 General duties of the 2372 Ironing 2393-6 Mangling and ironing 2387-9 Rinsing 2379 Soaking linen 2376 Sorting linen 2375 Starch, to make 2391-2 Starching 2390 Washing 2377-8 coloured muslins, &c 2380 flannels 2381 greasy cloths 2382 satin and silk ribbons 2384 silk handkerchiefs 2383 silks 2385Laurel, or bay 180Law, general remarks on 2694Lead, and its preparations 2661Leamington sauce 459Lease, breaks in the 2711Leases, general remarks on 2702-4Leek, badge of the Welsh 134 Soup 133Legacies 2751-4 Bequests, &c 2744-9Legal memoranda 2694-2751Lemon, anti venomous 455 Biscuits 1743 Blancmange 1442 Brandy 460 Cake 1764 Cheesecakes 1292 Cream 1443 (economical) 1444 Creams 1445 or custards 1446 Dumplings 1294 Essence of 2274 Fruit of the 405 Jelly 1447 Juice of the 456 Mincemeat 1293 Pudding, baked 1295-7 boiled 1298 plain 1299 Rind or peel 460 Sauce for boiled fowls 457 for sweet puddings 1358 Sponge 1448 Syrup 1822 Thyme 458 To pickle with the peel on 455 without the peel 456 Water ice 1557 White sauce for fowls or fricassees 458 Uses of the 1296 Wine 1823Lemonade 1834 For invalids 1870 Most harmless of acids 1834 Nourishing 1871Lentil, the 126Lettuce, corrective properties of the 136 Varieties of the 1123Lettuces, to dress 1123Leveret, to dress a 1034Liaison 461Lightning, treatment after a person has been struck by 2677Linen, attention to 2278 Scorched, to restore 2283 Soaking 2376 Sorting 2375Liqueur Jelly 1449Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462 And parsley sauce for poultry 463 Complaints and spasms 2644Lobster, the 270 A la mode Française 273 Ancient mode of cooking the 275 Celerity of the 273 Curry (an entrée) 274 Cutlets (an entrée) 275 Hot 271 How it feeds 278 Local attachment of the 277 Patties (an entrée) 277 Potted 278 Salad 272 Sauce 464 Shell of the 272 Soup 195 To boil 270 To dress 276Lumbago 2645Luncheon cake 1765Luncheons and suppers 2147-48Lungs, respiration of 2453-6

Macaroni, as usually served with cheese course 1645-7 Manufacture of 135, 1301 Pudding, sweet 1301 Soup 135 Sweet dish of 1450Macaroons 1744Mace 371Macedoine de fruits 1440Mackerel, the 281 Baked 279 Boiled 280 Broiled 281 Fillets of 282 Garum 283 Pickled 283 To choose 281 Weight of the 279 Voracity of the 282Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast 2344 dinner 2350-1 Bedrooms, attention to 2352 daily work in 2345 Before retiring to bed 2354 Breakfast, preparation for 2343 Cleaning hall 2342 Cooking dinner 2346 Early morning duties 2341 General duties 2340 routine 2353 Knife-cleaning 2351 Laying dinner-cloth 2347 Needlework, time for 2356 Waiting at table 2348-9 Washing 2355Maigre, soup 136Maître d'hôtel 465 butter 465 sauce (hot) 466

Maize 1721 Cobbett a cultivator of 1174 Or Indian wheat, boiled 1174Malt wine 1824Manchester pudding 1300Mangling and ironing 2387-9Mango chetney, Bengal recipe for making 392Manna kroup pudding 1302 Qualities of 1302Mansfield pudding 1303Marble, to clean 2333-4Marjoram, species of 173, 415Marlborough pudding 1304Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305 Of Apricots 1522 Orange 1566-7 an easy way of making 1568 made with honey 1569 Quince 1586Marrow, bones 635 Boiled 635 Dumplings 1306 Pudding, boiled or baked 1307Mayonnaise 468Measles 2547-59Meat, action of salt on 607 Bad 605 Baking 665 Good 602 In season, January to December _pp_ 33-7 Modes of cooking 540-84 Pies, savoury jelly for 521 To buy economically 726Meats, preserved 643Medical memoranda 2689-93Melon, description of the 1559 Introduced into England 1115 Uses of the 1559Melons 1569Meringues 1451Military puddings 1308Milk, and cream, separation of 1627 to keep in hot weather 1628 And suckling 2472-90 Excellence of 1627 General observations on 1608-14 Or cream, substitute for 1815 Qualities of 1628 Soup 137Millet, Italian 1718 Pannicled 1733Mince pies 1311Minced collops 619Mincemeat, to make 1309 Excellent 1310 Lemon 1293Mint 469 Sauce 469 Vinegar 470Mistress, after-dinner invitations 39 Charity and benevolence, duties of 14 Choice of acquaintances 6 Cleanliness indispensable to health 4 Conversation, trifling occurrences 9 Daily duties 22-6 Departure of guests 45-6 Dessert 37-8 Dinner announced 35 Domestics, engaging 17 giving characters to 20 obtaining 18 treatment of 19 yearly wages, table of 21Mistress, dress and fashion 11 of the 13 Early rising 3 Etiquette of evening parties 40-3 the ball room 44 Evenings at home 48 Family dinner at home 47 Friendships should not be hastily formed 7 Good temper, cultivation of 10 Guests at dinner-table 36 Half-hour before dinner 34 Home virtues 5 Hospitality, excellence of 8 Household duties 1-2 House-hunting, locality, aspect, ventilation, rent 54 Housekeeping account-book 16 Introductions 51 Invitations for dinner 33 Letters of introduction 52-3 Marketing 15 Morning calls and visits 27-32 Purchasing of wearing apparel 12 Retiring for the night 49Mock-turtle soup 172-3Morello cherries, to preserve 1561Moths, preservatives against 2285Muffins 1727Mulberries, preserved 1360Mulberry, description of the 1360Mullagatawny soup 174Mullet, grey 284 Red 285Muriatic acid 2651Mushroom, the cultivated 473 Growth of the 476 How to distinguish the 472 Ketchup 472 Localities of the 1126 Nature of the 478 Powder 477 Sauce, brown 474 very rich and good 479 white 475-6 Varieties of the 1125Mushrooms, baked 1124 Broiled 1125 Pickled 478 Stewed 1127 in gravy 1128 To dry 473 preserve 1126 procure 1127Mustard 480 How to mix 480 Indian 480 Tartar 481Mutton, baked minced 703 Breast of, boiled 704 (excellent way to cook a) 709 Broiled, and tomato sauce 710 Broth, quickly made 1873 to make 1872 Carving 759-63 China chilo 712Mutton, chops, broiled 711 Collops 731 Curried 713 Cutlets, of cold 714 Italian 723 with mashed potatoes 732 Dormers 715 Fillet of, braised 707 Haricot 716-18 Hashed 719 Haunch of, roast 726 to carve a 759 Hodge-podge 720 Irish stew 721-2 Kidney, broiled 724 fried 725 Leg of, boiled 705 boned and stuffed 706 braised 708 roast 727 to carve a 760 Loin of, to carve a 761 roast 728 rolled 729 Neck of, boiled 730 ragoût of 736 roast 737 Pie 733-4 Pudding 735 Qualities of various 707 Saddle of, roast 738 to carve a 762 Shoulder of, roast 739 to carve a 763 Soup, good 175

Nasturtium, uses of the 482Nasturtiums, pickled 482Nature and art in nursing 2445-2452Navet, description of the 1168Nectar, Welsh 1830Nectarines, preserved 1562Needlework 2325Negus, to make 1835Nesselrode pudding 1313Nitric acid 2650Normandy pippins, stewed 1563Notice to quit 2716Noxious trades 2712Noyeau cream 1452 Homemade 1825Nurse, attention to children's dispositions 2401 Carrying an infant 2398 Convulsion fits 2406 Croup 2407 Dentition 2405 General duties of the 2402-4 Habits of cleanliness in children 2400 Hooping-cough 2408 Measles and scarlatina 2410-12 Miss Nightingale's remarks on children 2414-5 Worms 2409Nursemaids, upper and under 2397Nurse, Monthly, age of 2431Nurse, Monthly, attention to cleanliness in the patient's room 2433 Choice of a 2429 Doctor's instructions must be observed 2430 General duties of the 2432 Infant must not be exposed to light or cold too early 2434Nurse, Sick, airing the bed 2425 Attention to food 2427 Bad smells must be removed 2422 Cleanliness, necessity of 2421 Diet suitable to the patient's taste 2428 Duties of the 2416 Necessity for pure air in the sick-room 2417 Night air injurious, a fallacy 2426 Opening of windows and doors 2418-9 Patient must not be waked 2424 Quiet in the patient's room 2423 Ventilation necessary in febrile cases 2402Nurse, Wet, abstinence from improper food 2411 Age of the 2439 Diet of the 2442 General remarks on the 2435-8 Health and morality of the 2440 Spirits, wines, and narcotics to be avoided 2443Nutmeg, the 378Nuts, dish of 1599 hazel and filbert 1599

Olive and olive oil 506Omelet, au Thon 1494 Aux confitures, or jam omelet 1460 Bachelor's 1462 Ham 1457 Kidney 1458 Plain, sweet 1459 Soufflé 1461 The Cure's p. 753 To make a plain 1456Onion before the Christian era 139 History of the 485 Origin of the 1131 Properties of the 1130 Sauce, brown 485 or Soubise, French 483 white 484 Soup 138-9Onions, burnt, for gravies 1130 Pickled 486-7 Spanish, baked 1129 pickled 527 stewed 1131Open jam tart 1365Opium and its preparations 2662Orange, and cloves 1565 Brandy 1826 Cream 1463-4 Fritters 1465 Gravy 483 In Portugal, the 1565 Jelly 1454Orange, jelly, moulded with slices of orange 1455 Marmalade 1566-7 an easy way of making 1568 made with honey 1569 Pudding, baked 1314 Salad 1571 Seville 1464 Tree, the first in France 1564 Uses of the 1314 Wine 1827Oranges, a pretty dish of 1466 Compote of 1565 Iced 1564 To preserve 1570Ox, the 176 Cheek, soup 176 stewed 638 Feet, or cowheel, fried 639 Tail, broiled 652 soup 177 Tails, stewed 610Oxalic acid 2652Oyster, and scallop 288 Excellence of the English 291 Fishery 289 Forcemeat 489 Ketchup 490 Patties 289 Sauce 492 Season 197 Soup 196-7 The edible 286Oysters, fried 286 in batter 291 Pickled 491 Scalloped 287 Stewed 288 To keep 290

Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276Pan kail 140Panada 420Pancakes, French 1425 Richer 1468 To make 1467Parsley, and butter 493 Fried 494 How used by the ancients 123, 493 Juice (for colouring various dishes) 495 To preserve through the winter 496Parsnip, description of the 141, 1132 Soup 141Parsnips, to boil 1132Partridge, the 178, 1039 Broiled 1035 Hashed, or salmi de perdrix 1038 Pie 1036 Potted 1037 Roast 1039 Soup 178 To carve a 1057Paste, almond 1220 Common, for family pies 1207 French puff, or feuilletage 1208Paste, medium puff 1206 Soyer's recipe for puff 1209 Very good puff 1205Pastry, and puddings, general observations on 1175-9 Ramakins to serve with cheese course 1650 Sandwiches 1318 To ice or glaze 1334-5Patties, chicken or fowl 928 Fried 896 Lobster 227 Oyster 289Pavini cake 1771Pea, origin of the 1133 Soup 144 green 142 winter, yellow 143 Sweet and heath or wood 1135 Varieties of the 143, 1134Peas, green 1133 à la Française 1134 stewed 1135Peach, and nectarine 1572 Description of the 1469 Fritters 1469Peaches, compote of 1572 Preserved in brandy 1573Pear 1574 Bon Chrétien 1576Pears, à l'Allemande 1470 Baked 1574 Moulded 1471 Preserved 1575 Stewed 1576Pepper, black 369 Long 399 Plant, growth of the 516 White 366Perch, the 292 Boiled 292 Fried 293 Stewed with wine 294Pestle and Mortar 421Petites bouches 1319Pheasant, the 1041 Broiled 1043 Cutlets 1040 Height of excellence in the 1043 Roast 1041 Brillat Savarin's recipe for 1042 Soup 179 To carve a 1059Pickle, an excellent 497 Beetroot, to 369 Capsicums, to 385 Cucumbers, to 399 For tongues or beef 611 Gherkins, to 428 Indian (very superior) 451 Lemons, to 456 with the peel on 455 Mixed 471 Mushrooms, to 478 Nasturtiums, to 482 Onions, to 486-7 Spanish, to 527 Oysters, to 491 Red cabbage, to 493 Universal 533 Walnuts, to 534Pickles of the Greeks and Romans 452 Keeping 451Pie, apple, or tart 1233 Beef-steak 604 Chicken or fowl 929 Eel 253 Fish and oyster 257 Giblet 966 Grouse 1024 Lark 971 Mince 1311 Mutton 733-4 Partridge 1036 Pigeon 975 Pork, raised 835 little 836 Poultry or game, raised 1340 Rabbit 981 Sole or cod 322 Tench and eel 349 Veal 897 and ham 898 raised 1341 olive 895Pig, Guinea 997 How roast pig was discovered 841 to silence a 812 Novel way of recovering a stolen 819 Sucking, to carve a 842 roast 841 to scald 840 The learned 840Pig's cheeks, to dry 830 Face, collared 823 Fry, to dress 824 Liver 831 Pettitocs 832Pigs, Austrian mode of herding 796 English mode of hunting and Indian sticking 800 How pastured and fed formerly 805Pigeon, the 974 Barb 976 Breeding 974 Carrier 974 Fantail 976 House or dovecot, aspect of 974 Jacobin 976 Necessity of cleanliness in the 974 Nun 975 Owl 976 Pie 975 Pouter 973 Rock 976 Runt 975 To carve a 1003 Trumpeter 975 Tumbler 975 Turbit 976 Wood or wild 975Pigeons, broiled 973 Roast 974 Stewed 970Pike, the 293 Baked 296 Boiled 295Pineapple 1472, 1478 Chips 1577 Fritters 1472 In Heathendom 1578 Preserved 1578 for present use 1579Pippins, stewed, Normandy 1563Plaice, the 298 Fried 297 Stewed 298Plate-cleaning 2317-18Plover, description of the 1044 To carve a 1066 dress a 1044Plovers' eggs 1626Plum, an excellent pudding 1325 Cake, common 1768 nice 1769 Jam 1580 Pudding, baked 1324 Pudding sauce 499 Tart 1331Plums 1330 French, box of 1600 stewed 1583 Cultivation of 1582 Origin of the names of 1580 Preserved 1581 To preserve dry 1582Poisonous food 2665 Mushrooms 2666Poisons 2647 Calomel 2658 Copper 2659 Emetic tartar 2656 Lead, and its preparations 2661 Opium and its preparations 2662 Symptoms of having inhaled strong fumes of smelling salts 2655 swallowed 2618 alkalis 2654 arsenic 2656 corrosive sublimate 2657 muriatic acid 2651 nitric acid 2650 oxalic acid 2652 prussic acid 2653 sulphuric acid 2649 Syrup of poppies and Godfrey's cordial 2663 Treatment after taking henbane hemlock, nightshade, or foxglove 2664Polish tartlets 1320Pomatum, an excellent 2256Pork, carving 842 Cheese 799 Cutlets 796 Cutlets or chops 797-8 Griskin of, roast 827 Hashed 801 Leg of, boiled 826 roast 800 to carve a 844 Loin of, roast 829 Pickled, to boil 834 Pies 835 little, raised 836 Sausages, to make 837 To pickle 833Portable soup 180Potato, the 147 Analysis of 1138 As an article of food 1148 Bread 1141 Fritters 1474 Patty 1332 Properties of the 1137 Pudding 1333 Qualities of the 1147 Rissoles 1147 Salad 1154 Snow 1148 Soup 145-6-7 Starch 1139 Sugar 1136 Uses of the 1140 Varieties of the 1146Potatoes, à la maître d'hôtel 1144 Baked 1136 Fried, French fashion 1142 German way of cooking 1143 How to use cold 1141 Mashed 1145 Preserving 1143 Purée de pommes de terre 1146 To boil 1137 in their jackets 1138 new 1139 To steam 1140Potted beef 642-3 Chicken or fowl 930 Ham 815 Hare 1028 Partridge 1037 Shrimps 312 Veal 899Poulet, à la Marengo 949 Aux cressons 964Poultry, in season, January to December _pp_. 33-7Pound cake 1770Pounded cheese 1648Prawn, the 198 Soup 198Prawns or shrimps, buttered 313 To boil 299 To dress 300Prescriptions, general remarks on 2580 Blister, an ordinary 2598 Clyster 2582 Draught 2581 common black 2587 Drugs, list of, necessary to carry out all instructions 2579 Liniment 2583 Lotion 2584 Goulard 2585 Opodeldoc 2586 Mixtures, aperient 2588 fever 2589Pills 2592 compound iron 2591 myrrh and aloes 2590 Poultice 2604 Abernethy's plan for making a bread-and-water 2595 linseed meal 2596 mustard 2597 Powders 2593Preserved, and dried greengages 1553 Cherries in syrup 1529 Damsons 1539 or any other kind of plums 1540 Ginger 1432 Greengages in syrup 1554 Morello cherries 1561 Mulberries 1560 Nectarines 1562 Oranges 1570 Peaches in brandy 1573 Pineapple 1578 Plums 1581 Pumpkin 1584 Strawberries in wine 1595 whole 1596Preserves, general observations on 1495, 1507Primitive ages, simplicity of the 63-4Prince of Wales soup 148Property law 2696-8Prussic acid 2653Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045 To carve a 1064 To dress a 1045Pudding, Alma 1237 Almond, baked 1221 small 1222 Apple, baked, very good 1231 economical 1229 rich 1228 boiled 1232 iced 1290 rich sweet 1230 Apricot, baked 1238 Arrowroot, baked or boiled 1249 Asparagus 1089 Aunt Nelly's 1224 Bachelor's 1241 Bakewell 1242-3 Baroness 1244 Batter, baked 1246 with dried or fresh fruit 1247 boiled 1248 Beefsteak and kidney 605 baked 600 Bread, baked 1250 boiled 1252 brown 1253 Bread, miniature 1254 very plain 1251 Bread-and-butter, baked 1255 Cabinet, or chancellor's 1256 plain, or boiled bread-and-butter 1257 Canary 1258 Carrot, baked or boiled 1259 Christmas, for children, plain 1327 plum 1328 Cold 1262 College 1263 Currant, black or red 1266 boiled 1265 Custard, baked 1268 boiled 1269 Damson 1271 Delhi 1272 Empress 1273 Exeter 1274 Fig 1275 Staffordshire recipe 1276 Folkestone pudding pies 1277 German 1279 or Dampfnudeln 1280 Ginger 1281 Golden 1282 Gooseberry, baked 1283 boiled 1284 Half-pay 1286 Herodotus 1287 Hunter's 1288 Iced 1289 Lemon, baked 1295-7 boiled 1298 plain 1299 Macaroni, sweet 1301 Manchester 1300 Manna kroup 1302 Mansfield 1303 Marlborough 1304 Marmalade and vermicelli 1305 Marrow, boiled or baked 1307 Military 1308 Monday's 1312 Mutton 735 Nesselrode 1313 Orange, baked 1314 batter 1249 Paradise 1322 Pease 1323 Plum, an excellent 1325 baked 1324 fresh fruit 1330 Potato 1333 Pound, plum 1329 an unrivalled 1326 Quickly made 1366 Raisin, baked 1336 boiled 1337 Rhubarb, boiled 1338 Rice, baked 1342 more economical 1343 boiled with dried and fresh fruit 1345-6 French, or gâteau de riz 1352 ground, boiled or baked 1353 iced 1354 miniature 1355 plain, boiled 1344 Roly-poly jam 1291 Royal Coburg 1260 Sago 1367 Semolina, baked 1369 Somersetshire 1374 Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375 Tapioca 1370 Treacle, rolled 1372 Toad-in-the-hole 672 of cold meat 743 Vermicelli 1377 Vicarage 1378 West Indian 1382 Yorkshire 1384Puddings and pastry, directions for making 1180, 1204 general observations on 1175-1179Puits d'amour, or puff-paste rings 1321Pumpkin, preserved 1584Punch 1839 To make hot 1839Purchasing a house 2695-98

Quadrupeds, general observations on 585, 597Quail, description of the 1046 To carve a 1065 To dress a 1046Queen-cakes 1773Quenelles à tortue 189 Veal 422Quince, the 1233 Jelly 1585 Marmalade 1586 Quin's sauce 500

Rabbit, à la minute 980 Angora 985 Boiled 977 Common wild 978 Curried 978 Fecundity of the 981 Fried 979 Habitat of the 977 Hare 985 Himalaya 985 House 982 Hutch 983 Pie 981 Ragoût of, or hare 982 Roast or baked 983 Soup 181 Stewed 984 in milk 1874 larded 985 To carve a 1004 Varieties of the 979Rabbits, fancy 984Radish, varieties of the 1152Raised pie, of poultry or game 1340 Pork 835-6 Veal and ham 1841Raisin, the 1327Raisins, cheese 1587 Grape 1324 Pudding, baked 1336 boiled 1337Ramakins, pastry 1650 To serve with cheese course 1649Raspberry, and currant salad 1592 tart 1267 Cream 1175 Jam 1588 Jelly 1589 Vinegar 1828Raspberries, red and white 1267Ratafias 1745Ravigotte, a French salad sauce 501Reading sauce 502Rearing by hand 2497-8Rearing, management, and diseases of infancy and childhood 2415-2577Receipts 2730Regency soup 182Rémoulade, or French salad dressing 503Rent, recovery of 2719-22Rhubarb, and orange jam 1591 Description of 1339 Jam 1590 Pudding, boiled 1338 Tart 1339 Wine 1829Ribbons, or silk, to clean 2275Rice, and apples 1400 Biscuits or cakes 1746 Blancmange 1476 Boiled for curries 1347 Bread 1720 Buttered 1349 Cake 1772 Casserole of, savoury 1350 sweet 1351 Croquettes 1477 Esteemed by the ancients 1349 Fritters 1478 Ground 1746 boiled 1353 Iced 1354 Indian, origin of 150 Milk 1875 Paddy 1347 Pudding, baked 1342 more economical 1343 boiled 1345 plain 1344 with dried or fresh fruit 1346 French, or gâteau de riz 1352 Miniature 1355 Qualities of 1342 Snowballs 1479 Soufflé 1480 Soup 150-1 To boil for curries 1348 Varieties of 1345Ringworm, cure for 2667 Alterative powders for 2668Rinsing 2379Rissoles, beef 465Roach, the 243Roasting, age of 65 Memoranda in 657Rock biscuits 1747Rolls, excellent 1723 Fluted 1317 Hot 1724 Meat, or sausage 1373Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525 White, 526Rusks, Italian 1733 To make 1734

Sage 427 And onion stuffing 501Sago, alimentary properties of 1367 How procured 152 Pudding 1367 Sauce for sweet puddings 1368 Soup 152Salad, a poetic recipe for 508 Boiled 1151 Chicken 931 Dressing 506-8 French 503 Grouse 1026 Lobster 272 Orange 1571 Potato 1154 Scarcity of, in England 505 Summer 1152 Winter 1153Salads 1153Salmi de perdrix, or hashed partridge 1038Salmon, à la Genevese 307 And caper sauce 302 Aversion of the 309 Boiled 301 Collared 303 Crimped 304 Curried 305 Cutlets 306 Growth of the 305 Habitat of the 303 Migratory habits of the 302 Pickled 308 Potted 309 To carve _p. _ 175 choose 301 cure 308 Tribe 304Salsify, description of 1149 To dress 1149Salt, action of on meat 607 Common 403 Fish 233 Meat, Soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in 609Sandwiches, of cheese 1611 Pastry 1318 Toast 1877 Victoria 1491Sauce, à l'Aurore 511 A la matelote 512 Allemande, or German sauce 509 Anchovy, for fish 362

Sauce, apple, brown 364 for geese or pork 363 Aristocratique 510 Arrowroot, for puddings 1356 Asparagus 365 Béchamel, or French white sauce 367 maigre 368 Benton 370 Beurre noir, or browned butter, a French sauce 374 Bread 371-2 Browning for 373 Butter, melted 376-7 made with milk 380 maitre d'hôtel 465 thickened 379 Camp vinegar 381 Caper, for boiled mutton 382 for fish 383 a substitute for 384 Celery, for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387 a more simple recipe 388 Cherry, for sweet puddings 1357 Chestnut, brown 391 for turkey or fowls 390 Chili vinegar 393 Christopher North's, for game or meat 394 Consommé, or white stock for 395 Crab, for fish 396 Cream, for fish or white dishes 397 Cucumber 398 white 400 Custard, for sweet puddings or tart 404 Dutch, for fish 405 green, or Hollandaise verte 406 Egg, for salt fish 409 Epicurean 410 Espagnole, or brown Spanish 411 Fennel, for mackerel 412 Fish 413 For boiled puddings 514 steaks 516 wildfowl 519 Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427 Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429 Green, for green geese or ducklings 431 Horseradish 447 Hot spice 524 Indian chetney 452 Italian, brown 453 white 454 Leamington 459 Lemon, for boiled fowls 457 for fowls and fricassees, white 458 for sweet puddings 1358 Liaison of eggs for thickening 461 Liver and lemon, for poultry 462 parsley 463 Lobster 464 Maigre maître d'hôtel (hot) 467 Maître d'hôtel (hot) 466 Mango chetney (Bengal recipe) 392 Mayonnaise 468 Melted butter 376-8 Mint 469 Mushroom, a very rich and good 479 brown 474 ketchup 472 white 475-6 Onion, brown 485 French, or Soubise 483 white 484 Oyster 492 Parsley and butter 493 Piquante 513 Plum-pudding 499 Quin's (an excellent fish-sauce) 500 Ravigotte 501 Reading 502 Robert 515 Sago, for sweet puddings 1368 Shrimp 522 Soyer's, for plum-puddings 1359 Store, or Cherokee 528 Sweet, for puddings 1360 venison 518 Thickening for 525-6 Tomato 529-32 Tournée 517 Vanilla custard 1361 Wine, excellent for puddings 1362 for puddings 1364 or brandy 1363 white 537-9Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages 433 Manufacture of 510 Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats, remarks on 354, 361Saucer-cakes, for tea 1774Sausage, meat cakes 839 Meat stuffing 520 Or meat rolls 1373Sausages, beef 662 Pork, fried 838 to make 837 Veal 904Savory 446Savoury jelly for meat pies 521Savoy, the 140 Biscuits or cakes 1748 Cake 1782Scarlatina, or scarlet fever 2560-3Scotch, collops 870 white 871 Eggs 1666 Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1651 Shortbread 1780 Woodcock 1653Scrap cakes 1779Scratches 2669Sea-bream, the 310 baked 310 Mr. Yarrell's recipe 310 Kale, description of 1150 To boil 1150Seed, biscuits 1749 Cake, common 1775 very good 1776Semolina, pudding, baked 1369 Qualities of 153 Soup 153 Uses of 1369Shad, the 311 To dress 311Shalot, or Eschalot 410Sheep, the 175 General observations on the 678, 697 Poets on the 730Sheep's brains, en matelote 740 Feet, or trotters 741 Head, to dress 742 singed 742Shepherd, the Ettrick 739 The Good 705Shepherds and their flocks 710Sherry 1416 Pale 1426Shortbread, Scotch 1780Shrimp, the 313 Sauce 522Shrimps, or prawns, buttered 313 to boil 299 Potted 312Sick-rooms, caution in visiting 2692Sirloin, origin of the word 659Skate, the 315 Boiled 314 Crimped 315 Small, fried 317 Species of 317 To choose 315 With caper sauce (à la Française) 316Smelt, the 319 Odour of the 318Smelts, to bake 318 To fry 319Snipe, description of the 1047Snipes, to carve 1060 To dress 1047Snow cake 1777-8 Eggs, or oeufs à la neige 1482Snowballs, apple 1235 Rice 1479Soda, biscuits 1751 Bread 1722 Cake 1781 Carbonate of 1765Sole, the 320 Flavour of the 324 Or cod pie 322Soles, a favourite dish of the ancient Greeks 323 Baked 320 Boiled 321 or fried, to carve _p. _ 175 Filleted, à l'Italienne 324 Fricasseed 325 Fried 327 filleted 326 How caught 325 To choose 320 With cream sauce 323 mushrooms 328Sorrel 131 Qualities of 431Soufflé, apple 1402 Chocolate 1427 Omelette 1461 Rice 1480 To make a 1481Soufflés, general observations on 1388Soup, à la cantatrice 119 Crecy 126 Flamande 129-30 Julienne 131 Reine 183-4 Solferino 154 Almond 110 Apple 111 Artichoke, Jerusalem 112 Asparagus 113-14 Baked 115 Barley 116 Bread 117 Brilla 166 Broth and bouillon, general remarks on 91-5 Cabbage 118 Calf's head 167 Carrot 120-1 Celery 122 Chantilly 123 Chemistry and economy of making 96, 103 Chestnut, Spanish 124 Cock-a Leekie 134 Cocoa-nut 125 Crayfish 193 Cucumber 127 Eel 194 Egg 128 Family, a good 190 Fish, stock 192 General directions for making 88 Giblet 168 Gravy 169 Hare 170 Hessian 171 Hodge-podge 191 In season, January to December _pp. _ 57, 104 Kale brose 132 Leek 133 Lobster 195 Macaroni 135 Maigre 136 Making, the chemistry of 96-103 Milk 137 Mock-turtle 172-3 Mutton, good 175 Ox-cheek 176 Ox-tail 177 Oyster 196-7 Pan kail 140 Parsnip 141 Partridge 178 Pea, green 144 inexpensive 142 winter, yellow 143 Pheasant 179 Portable 180 Potage printanier 149 Potato 145-7 Prawn 198 Prince of Wales 148 Rabbit 181 Regency 182 Rice 150-1 Sago 152 Seasonings for 90 Semolina 153 Spanish chestnut 124 Spinach 155 Spring 149 Stew 186-7 of salt meat 185 Tapioca 156 Turkey 188 Turnip 157 Turtle 189 Useful for benevolent purposes 165 Vegetable 159-161 marrow 158 Vermicelli 162-3 White 164Sow, Berkshire 781 Chinese 785 Cumberland 784 Essex 782 Price of, in Africa 816 Yorkshire 783Soy 497Soyer's recipe for goose stuffing 505Spanish onions pickled 527Spiced beef 665Spinach, description of 1156 Dressed with cream, à la Française 1156 French mode of dressing 1157 Green, for colouring dishes 523 Soup 155 To boil, English mode 1155 Varieties of 155, 1155Sponge cake 1783 Small, to make 1785 Lemon 1448Sprains 2671Sprat, the 331Sprats 329 Dried 331 Fried in batter 330Sprouts 1096 Boiled, Brussels 1096 To boil young greens, or 1097Stables and coach-house 2204 Heat of 2205Stains of syrup, or preserved fruits, to remove 2273Stalls 2207Stammering 2673 Cure for 2672Stamp duties 2742Starch, to make 2391-2Starching 2390Stew soup 185-7Stilton cheese 1639Stock, browning for 108Stock, cow-heel 1412 Economical 106 For gravies, general 432 For jelly 1411 Medium 105 Rich strong 104 To clarify 109 White 107Stomach, digestion 2457-9Stone cream 1483Store sauce, or Cherokee 528Strawberry, jam 1594 Jelly 1484 Name of, among the Greeks 1381 Origin of the name 1365Strawberries, and cream 1593 Dish of 1606 To preserve whole 1596 in wine 1595Stuffing, for geese, ducks, pork, &c 504 Sausage meat for turkey 520 Soyer's recipe for 505Sturgeon, the 332 Baked 332 Estimate of, by the ancients 333 Roast 333Stye in the eye 2630Substitute for milk and cream 1815Sucking-pig, to carve 842 To roast 841 scald 840Suffocation, apparent 2674 Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp of mines 2675Sugar, and beetroot 1211 Cane 1334 French 1211 Icing for cakes 1736 Introduction of 1336 Potato 1136 Qualities of 1212 To boil to caramel 1514Sulphuric acid 2649Sultana grape 1326Suppers 2139-41Sweetbreads, baked 906 Fried 907 Stewed 908Sweet dishes, general observations on 1385-8Swine, flesh of, in hot climates 835Swineherds of antiquity 836 Saxon 838Swiss cream 1485Syllabub, to make 1486 Whipped 1493Syrup, for compotes, to make 1512 Lemon 1822 Of poppies 2663 To clarify 1513

Tails, strange 652Tapioca pudding 1370 Soup 156 Wholesomeness of 156, 1370Tart, apple creamed 1234 Apricot 1239 Barberry, 1245 Cherry 1261 Damson 1270 Gooseberry 1285 Plum 1331 Raspberry and currant 1267 Rhubarb 1339 Strawberry, or any other kind of preserve, open 1365Tartlets 1371 Polish 1320Tarragon 503Taxes 2714Tea 1814 And coffee 1813 Miss Nightingale's opinion on the use of 1864 To make 1814Teacakes 1786 To toast 1787Teal, to carve 1067 To roast a 1048Teething 2510-18Tenancy, by sufferance 2701 General remarks on 2717Tench, the 334 And eel-pie 349 Matelote of 334 Singular quality in the 335 Stewed with wine 335Terms used in cookery, French 87Thrush and its treatment 2523-37Thyme 166Tipsy-cake 1487 an easy way of making 1488Toad-in-the-hole 672 of cold meat 743Toast, and water, to make 1876 Sandwiches 1877 Tea-cakes, to 1787 To make dry 1725 hot buttered 1726Toffee, Everton, to make 1597Tomato, analysis of the 1159 Extended cultivation of the 1160 Immense importance in cookery 1153 Sauce 529 for keeping 530-2 Stewed 1159-60 Uses of the 629, 528, 2690Tomatoes, baked, excellent 1158Tongue, boiled 673 Pickle for 641 To cure 674-5 To pickle and dress to eat cold 676Tongues of animals 675Toothache, cure for the 2678-9Tourte apple or cake 1236Treacle, or molasses, description of 1224 Pudding, rolled 1372Trifle, apple 1404 Gooseberry 1434 Indian 1436 To make a 1489Tripe, to dress 677Trout, the 336 Stewed 336Truffle, the common 1161 Impossibility of regular culture of the 1162 Uses of the 1164Truffles, à l' Italienne 1164 Au naturel 1161 Italian mode of dressing 1163 To dress with champagne 1162 Where found 1163Turbot, the 333 À la crême 341 Ancient Romans' estimate of the 340 Au gratin 342 Boiled 337 Fillet of, baked 339 a l'Italienne 340 Garnish for, or other large fish 338 To carve a _p_. 175 To choose 338Turkey, boiled 986 Croquettes of 987 Difficult to rear the 188 Disposition of the 988 English 990 Feathers of the 991 Fricasseed 988 Habits of the 988 Hashed 989 Hunting 989 Native of America 986 Or fowl, to bone without opening 992-4 Poults, roast 991

 Roast 990 Stuffing for 520 Soup 188 To carve a roast 1005 Wild 987Turnip greens boiled 1169 Or the French navet 1168 Qualities of the 1167 Soup 157 Uses of the 1165 Whence introduced 157Turnips, boiled 1165 German mode of cooking 1167 In white sauce 1168 Mashed 1166Turnovers, fruit 1278Turtle, mock 172-3 Soup, cost of 189 The green 189

Valet, cleaning clothes 2239 Duties of the 2234-8, 2242 Polish for boots 2240-1Vanilla cream 1490 Custard sauce 1361Vanille or Vanilla 1490Veal, a la bourgeoise 869 And ham pie 898 Baked 856 Breast of, roast 857 stewed and peas 858 to carve 912 Cake 859 Collops 879 Scotch 870Veal, collops, Scotch, white 871 Colour of 861 Curried 865 Cutlets 866 à la Maintenon 868 broiled 867 Dinner, a very 897 Fillet of, au Béchamel 883 roast 872 stewed 873 to carve a 914 Frenchman's opinion of 911 Fricandeau of 874-5 Knuckle of, ragoût 884 stewed 885 to carve a 915 Loin of au Daube 888 au Béchamel 887 roast 886 to carve 916 Manner of cutting up 854 Minced 891-892 and macaroni 891 Neck of, braised 893 roast 894 Olive pie 895 Patties, fried 896 Pie 897 Potted 899 Quenelles 422 Ragoût of, cold 900 Rissoles 901 Rolls 902 Sausages 904 Season and choice of 908 Shoulder of 903 Stewed 905 tendons de veau 909-10 Tète de veau en tortue 911Vegetable, a variety of the goard 158 Fried 1171 Marrow, a tropical plant 1171 boiled 1170 in white sauce 1173 Soup 158, 159-61Vegetables, acetarious 1151 And herbs, various 89 Cut for soups 1172 General observations on 1069, 1079 Reduced to purée 1166 In season, January to December _pp_. 33-7Venison 1049 Antiquity of, as food 444 Hashed 1050 Haunch of, roast 1049 Sauce for 518 Stewed 1051 The new 1051 To carve 1061Ventilation, necessity of, in rooms lighted with gas 2693 of stables 2206Vermicelli 162, 1377 Pudding 1377 Soup 162-3Vicarage pudding 1378Victoria sandwiches 1491Vinegar, camp. 381 Cayenne 385 Celery 389 Chili 393 Cucumber 401 Gooseberry 1820 Horseradish 418 Mint 470 Raspberry 1828 Use of, by the Romans 451Vol-au-vent, an entrée 1379 Of fresh strawberries with whipped cream 1381 Sweet, with fresh fruit 1380

Wafers, Geneva 1431Walnut, the 536 Ketchup 535-6Walnuts, pickled 534 Properties of the 1599 To have fresh throughout the season 1607Warts 2680Washing 2377-8 Coloured muslins, &c. 2380 Flannels 2381 Greasy cloths 2382 Satin and silk ribbons 2384 Silks 2385Water, rate 2715 Souchy 352-3 Supply of in Rome 1216 Warm 2691 What the ancients thought of 1214Wax, to remove 2272Welsh, nectar 1830 Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1652West-Indian pudding 1382Wheat, diseases of 1779 Egyptian or mummy 1783 Polish and Pomeranian 1722 Red varieties of 1719Wheatear, the 996Wheatears, to dress 996Whipped, cream 1492 Syllabubs 1493Whisky cordial 1840Whitebait 348 To dress 348Whiting, the 343 Au gratin, or baked 346 Aux fines herbes 347 Buckhorn 344 Boiled 343 Broiled 344 Fried 345 Pout and pollack 347 To carve a _p_. 176 choose 343Whitlow, to cure a 2681Widgeon, to carve a 1068 Roast 1052Will, attestation of a 2757 Advice in making a 2756 Witnesses to a 2746, 2758Wills 2732-38 Form of 2740-1Wine, cowslip 1817 Elder 1818 Ginger 1819 Gooseberry, effervescing 1821 Lemon 1823 Malt 1824 Orange 1827 Rhubarb 1829 To mull 1838Wire-basket 494Witnesses 2739-51Woodcock, description of the 1053 Scotch 1653 To carve a 1062Woodcock, to roast a 1053Woollen manufactures 737Woollens 2284Worms 2409Wounds 2682 Incised, or cuts 2683, 2686 Lacerated or torn 2684, 2687 Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688

Yeast 1383 Cake, nice 1788 Dumplings 1383 Kirkleatham 1717 To make, for bread 1716Yorkshire pudding 1384

ENGRAVINGS. 

Almond and blossom 110 Puddings 1222Almonds and raisins 1598Anchovy 226Apple, and blossom 1226 Compote of 1515 Jelly stuck with almonds 1395Apples, dish of 1598Arrowroot 387Artichoke, cardoon 1080 Jerusalem 1084Artichokes 1080Asparagus 114 On toast 1087 Tongs 1087

Bacon, boiled 804 For larding, and needles 828Bain Marie 430Bantams, black 939 Feather-legged 958Barbel 229Barberry 1245Barley 116Basil 417Basin, pudding 1200Basket, wire 494Bay, the 512Bean, broad 1092 French 1151 Haricot 1120 Scarlet runner 1090Beef, aitchbone of 677 Brisket of, to carve a 677 Collared 617 Ribs of, to carve a 677 Round of, to carve a 677Beef, side of, showing the several joints 595 Sirloin of 659 " to carve a 677 Steak pie 604 Tongue 675 " to carve a 677Beetroot 1094Birds 917Blackcock 1019 Roast 1019 " to carve a 1054Blacking-brush box 2342Blancmange 1409 Mould for 1408, 1442Boar, Westphalian 787Bread, &c. 1658 Loaf of, cottage 1718 Tin 1718Brill, the 230Brocoli 1095 Boiled 1095Broom, carpet 2293 Long hair 2306Brush, banister 2302 Cornice 2327 Crumb 2321 Dusting 2327 Furniture 2310 Plate 2317 Scrubbing 2306 Staircase 2302 Stove 2294Buns 1731Butler's tray and stand 2315Butter, dish 1632 Dish of, rolled 1634

Cabbage, seeding 118Cake-moulds 1756, 1761, 1772Calf, side of, showing the several joints 854Calf's-head 877 Half a 877 To carve a 913Calves 845 Sweetbreads of 906Caper, the 383Capercalzie, the 1026Capsicum, the 362Carp, the 242Carpet brooms 2293Carrots 1100Cauliflower, the 1104 Boiled 1104Celery 441 In glass 1107Char, the 243Charlotte aux pommes 1418Cheese glass 1640 Hot-water dish for 1651 Stilton 1639Cherry 1261Chervil 1151Chestnut 124Chocolate, box of 1598 Milk 1807Christmas pudding, &c. 1175Chub, the 243Cinnamon 524Citron, the 1436Claret-cup 1831Clove, the 367Coal, sections of 73Cocoa-bean 1815 Nut and blossom 125 " palm 125Cod, the 231Cod's head and shoulders, to carve 174Coffee 1811Colander, ancient 68 Modern 68Coriander 174Cork, with wooden top 446Cow and bull, Alderney 592 Galloway 593 Long-horn 591 Short-horn 590Crab, the 245Crayfish 193Cream-mould 1430Crumpets 1728Cucumber, the 402, 1111 Slice 1152 Sliced 1111Currants 1266 Zante 1264Custards, in glasses 1423Cygnet 998

Dace, the 243Damson, the 1270Deer, the 444 Eland, bull and cow 1051 Fallow, buck and doe 1050 Roebuck 1051 The stag and hind 1051Dessert 1495 Dishes 1598Dish, baking 551 Pie 1190 Sussex pudding 695Dripping-pan, ancient 68 Modern 68 And basting-ladle 580Duck, Aylesbury 935 Bowbill 936 Buenos Ayres 933 Call 937 Roast 934 " to carve a 999 Rouen 934 Wild 1022 " roast 1022 " " to carve a 1055

Eel, the 249Egg poacher, tin 1663 Stand for breakfast-table 1656Eggs, basket of 1667 Comparative sizes of 1665 Fried on bacon 1659 Poached, on toast 1663Elder-berries 1818Endive 169Ewe, heath 690 Leicester 682 Romney-Marsh 691 South-Down 687

Fennel 412Figs, compote of 1541Fish 199Flounders 259Flowers and fruit 61, 103, 584, 925Fowl, black bantams 939 Black Spanish 962 Boiled 938 " to carve a 1000 Cochin-China 942 Dorking 940 Feather-legged bantams 958 Game 938 Guinea 970 Pencilled Hamburgs 965 Roast 952 " to carve a 1001 Sebright bantams 961 Spangled Polands 941 Speckled Hamburgs 959 Sultans 963Fritter mould, star 1473 Scroll 1474Fruit, dish of, mixed 1598 Dish of, mixed summer 1598

Game 1006Garlic 392Gherkins 428Ginger 407Gingerbread 1760Glass measure, graduated 77Goose, Emden 968 Roast 1002 " to carve a 1002 Toulouse 969Gooseberry 429Grape, raisin 1324 Sultana 1326Gridiron, ancient 68 Modern 68 Revolving 569Grouse, red 1025 Roast 1025 " to carve a 1058Gudgeon, the 261Gurnet, the 262

Haddock, the 263Ham, boiled 811 To carve 843Hare, the common 170, 1027 Roast 1027 " to carve a 1056Herring, the 268Horseradish 447Hotplate 568Housemaid's box 2294

Ice-pail and spattle 1290Ices, dish of 1556

Jack-bottle 580Jam-pot 1532Jar-potting 642Jellies, &c 1385Jelly, bag 1411 Mould 1411, 1416 " oval 1449 Moulded with cherries 1440 Of two colours 1441 Open with whipped cream 1453John Dory 248

Kettle, glaze 430 Fish 225 Gravy 432Kidneys 724Knife-cleaning machine 5123

Lamb, fore-quarter of 750 " " to carve a 764 Leg of 752 Loin of 753 Ribs of 754 Saddle of 754 Side of 701Lamprey, the 256Landrail, the 1033Leaf in puff paste 1245 Pastry 1492Leeks 134Lemon, the 405, 1296 Cream mould 1443 Dumplings 1294Lentil, the 126Lettuce, the 136Lobster, the 270

Macaroni 135Macaroons 1744Mace 371Mackerel, the 281Maize, ear of 1721 Plant 1721Marjoram 415Marrow-bones 635Milking cow 1608Millet, Italian 1718 Panicled 1733Mince pies 1311Mint 469Mould, baked pudding or cake 1329 Blancmange 1408, 1442 Boiled pudding 1196-8 Cake 1756, 1764, 1772 Cream 1430 For Christmas plum-pudding 1328 For an open tart 1365 Iced pudding 1289 Jelly 1411, 1416 " oval 1449 Lemon cream 1443 Open 1454, 1463 Raised pie, closed and open 1190 Raspberry cream 1475 Vanilla cream 1490Muffins 1727Mulberry, the 1560Mullet, grey 284 Striped red 285Mushroom, the 473Mushrooms 1125 Broiled 1125Mustard 450Mutton, cutlets 732 Haunch of 726 " to carve a 759 Leg of 727 " to carve a 760 Loin of 728 " to carve a 761 Neck of 737 Saddle of 738 " to carve a 762 Side of, showing the several joints 695 Shoulder of 739 " to carve a 763

Nasturtiums 482Nutmeg, the 378Nuts, dish of 1598

Olive, the 506Omelet 1456 Pan 1458Onion, the 139Orange, the 1314Oranges, compote of 1565Oyster, edible 286

Pail, house 2327Pancakes 1467Parsley 493Parsnip, the 1132Partridge, the 1039 Roast 1039 " to carve a 1057Baste, board and rolling-pin 1186 Cutter and corner-cutter 1189 Ornamental cutter 1189 Pincers and jagger 1186Patty-pans, plain and fluted 1190Pea, the 143Peach, the 1469Pear, bon Chrétien 1576Pears, stewed 1576Peas, green 1135Pepper, black 369 Long 399Perch, the 292Pestle and Mortar 421Pheasant, the 1041 Roast 1041 " to carve a 1059Pickle, Indian 551Pie, raised 1340Pig, Guinea 997 Roast, sucking 841 " " to carve a 842Pig's face 823Pigs 765Pigeon, barb 976 Blue rock 976 Carrier 974 Fantail 976 Jacobin 976 Nun 975 Owl 976 Pouter 973 Roast 974 Runt 975 To carve a 1003 Trumpeter 975 Tumbler 975 Turbit 976 Wood 975Pike, the 295Pimento 438Plaice, the 298Plover, the 1044Plum, the 1330Pork, fore loin of 829 Griskin of 827 Hind loin of 829 Leg of, to carve a 844 " roast 800 Side of, showing joints 795 Spare rib of 827Pot, boiling 567Potato, the 147 Pasty pan 1333 Rissoles 1147 Sweet 1146Potatoes, baked, served in napkin 1136Pound cake 1770Prawn, the 198Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045Pudding, boiled fruit 1284 Cabinet 1286Punch-bowl and ladle 1839

Quadrupeds 585Quail, the 1046Quern, or grinding-mill 117Quince, the 1233

Rabbit, Angora 983 Boiled 977 " to carve a 1004 Hare, the 985 Himalaya 985 Lop-eared 984 Roast 983 " to carve a 1004 Wild 978Radish, long 1152 Turnip 1152Raisin, grape 1324Ram, heath 689 Leicester 688 Romney-Marsh and ewe 691 South-down and ewe 687Range, modern 65Raspberry, the 1267 Cream mould 1475Ratafias 1745Rhubarb 1339Rice, casserole of 1350 Ears of 150Roach, the 243Rolls 1723Rusks 1734

Sage 427Sago palm 152Salad, in bowl 1152Salmon, the 304 To carve a _p. _ 175Salt-mine at Northwich 403Saucepan, ancient 68 Modern 68Sauce tureen, boat, &c. 354Sausages, fried 838Sauté-pan 571 Ancient 68 Modern 68Scales, ancient and modern 70Screen, meat 582Sea-bream, the 310Sea-kale 1150 Boiled 1150Shad, the 311Shalot, the 410Sheep 678 Heath ram 689 " ewe 690 Romney-Marsh ram and ewe 691 South-Down ram and ewe 687Shortbread 1780Shrimp, the 313Skate, thornback 315Snipe, the 1047 Roast 1047 " to carve a 1060Sole, the 320Sorrel 431Soufflé pan 1481Sow, and pigs 765 Berkshire 781 Chinese 785 Cumberland 784 Essex 782 Yorkshire 783Spinach 155 Garnished with croûtons 1155Sponge cake 1783Sprat, the 331Sprouts, Brussels 1098Stewpan 567Stock-pot, ancient 66 Bronze 66 Modern 66Stove, gas 575 Family kitchener 65 Leamington 65, 540 Pompeiian 65Strawberries, dish of 1598Sturgeon, the 332Sugar-cane, the 1335Sultana grape, the 1326Swans 54

Tarragon 503Tart, open 1365 Open mould for a 1365 Plum 1331Tartlets, dish of 1371Tazza and carrot leaves 121Tea 1814Teacakes 1787Tench, the 334Thyme, lemon 458Tipsy cake 1487Tomato, the 529Tomatoes, stewed 1159Trifle 1489Trout, the 336Truffles 1161Turbot, the 338 Kettle 338 To carve a 176Tureen, soup 88Turkey, boiled 986 Roast 990 " to carve a 1005Turnip 157Turnips 1165Turret on old Abbey kitchen 62Turtle, the 189

Urns, Loysell's hydrostatic 1810Utensils for cooking, ancient and modern 66-8

Vanilla cream mould 1490Veal, breast of 857 " to carve a 912 Cutlets 866 Fillet of 872 " to carve a 914 Knuckle of 885 " to carve a 915 Loin of 885 " to carve a 916Vegetable, cutter 1173 Strips of 131Vegetable marrow 158 In white sauce 1173 On toast 1170Vegetables 1069 Cellular development of 1075 Siliceous cuticles of 1075Venison, haunch of 1061 " roast 1049 " to carve a 1061Vermicelli 162Vessels for beverages 1789Vol-au-vent 1379 Small 1379

Walnut, the 536Wheat 1779 Egyptian, or mummy 1783 Polish 1722 Red winter 1719Whitebait 348Whiting, the 343Window and flowers 75Wirebasket 494Woodcock, the 1053 Roast 1053 Scotch 1653 To carve a 1062

Yorkshire pudding 1384

COLOURED PLATES. 

Apples in custard

Beef, round of, boiled Roast sirloin of

Calf's head, boiledCharlotte aux pommesCod's head and shouldersCrab, dressed

Duck, wildDucks, couple of, roast

Eggs, poached, and spinach

Fowl, boiled with cauliflower Roast, with watercressesFruits, centre dish of various

Goose, roastGrouse

Ham, cold glazedHare, roast

Jelly, two colours of

Lobsters, dressed

Mackerel, boiledMutton cutlets and mashed potatoes Haunch of roast Saddle of roastMutton, shoulder of roast

Oysters, scalloped

PartridgePheasantPie, raisedPig, sucking, roast or bakedPigeonPlum-pudding, Christmas, in mould

Rabbit, boiled Or fowl, curriedRaspberry creamRissoles

Salmon, boiledSnipeSoles, dish of filletedSpinach and poached eggsStrawberries, au naturel, in ornamental flower-pot

Tongue, cold boiledTrifleTurbot, or brill, boiledTurkey, roast

Veal, fricandeau ofVol-au-vent

Whiting, dish of, friedWoodcock

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. 

CHAPTER I. 

THE MISTRESS. 

"Strength, and honour are her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time tocome. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law ofkindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household; and eateth notthe bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; herhusband also, and he praiseth her. "--_Proverbs_, xxxi. 25-28. 

I. AS WITH THE COMMANDER OF AN ARMY, or the leader of any enterprise, sois it with the mistress of a house. Her spirit will be seen through thewhole establishment; and just in proportion as she performs her dutiesintelligently and thoroughly, so will her domestics follow in her path. Of all those acquirements, which more particularly belong to thefeminine character, there are none which take a higher rank, in ourestimation, than such as enter into a knowledge of household duties; foron these are perpetually dependent the happiness, comfort, andwell-being of a family. In this opinion we are borne out by the authorof "The Vicar of Wakefield, " who says: "The modest virgin, the prudentwife, and the careful matron, are much more serviceable in life thanpetticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queens. She whomakes her husband and her children happy, who reclaims the one from viceand trains up the other to virtue, is a much greater character thanladies described in romances, whose whole occupation is to murdermankind with shafts from their quiver, or their eyes. "

2. PURSUING THIS PICTURE, we may add, that to be a good housewife doesnot necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusingrecreation; and we think it the more necessary to express this, as theperformance of the duties of a mistress may, to some minds, perhaps seemto be incompatible with the enjoyment of life. Let us, however, nowproceed to describe some of those home qualities and virtues which arenecessary to the proper management of a Household, and then point outthe plan which may be the most profitably pursued for the dailyregulation of its affairs. 

3. EARLY RISING IS ONE OF THE MOST ESSENTIAL QUALITIES which enter intogood Household Management, as it is not only the parent of health, butof innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a mistress is an earlyriser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly andwell-managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the domestics, who, as we have before observed, invariably partakesomewhat of their mistress's character, will surely become sluggards. Toself-indulgence all are more or less disposed, and it is not to beexpected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads ofhouses. The great Lord Chatham thus gave his advice in reference to thissubject:--"I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and thewalls of your chamber, 'If you do not rise early, you can make progressin nothing. '"

4. CLEANLINESS IS ALSO INDISPENSABLE TO HEALTH, and must be studied bothin regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold ortepid baths should be employed every morning, unless, on account ofillness or other circumstances, they should be deemed objectionable. Thebathing of _children_ will be treated of under the head of "MANAGEMENTOF CHILDREN. "

5. FRUGALITY AND ECONOMY ARE HOME VIRTUES, without which no householdcan prosper. Dr. Johnson says: "Frugality may be termed the daughter ofPrudence, the sister of Temperance, and the parent of Liberty. He thatis extravagant will quickly become poor, and poverty will enforcedependence and invite corruption. " The necessity of practising economyshould be evident to every one, whether in the possession of an incomeno more than sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a largefortune, which puts financial adversity out of the question. We mustalways remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage alittle well. "He is a good waggoner, " says Bishop Hall, "that can turnin a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of mylittle, than how to make it more. " In this there is true wisdom, and itmay be added, that those who can manage a little well, are most likelyto succeed in their management of larger matters. Economy and frugalitymust never, however, be allowed to degenerate into parsimony andmeanness. 

6. THE CHOICE OF ACQUAINTANCES is very important to the happiness of amistress and her family. A gossiping acquaintance, who indulges in thescandal and ridicule of her neighbours, should be avoided as apestilence. It is likewise all-necessary to beware, as Thomson sings, "The whisper'd tale, That, like the fabling Nile, no fountain knows;-- Fair-laced Deceit, whose wily, conscious aye Ne'er looks direct; the tongue that licks the dust But, when it safely dares, as prompt to sting. "

If the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of amistress, society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to themutual interchange of general and interesting information. 

7. FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE HASTILY FORMED, nor the heart given, atonce, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uniformly smile at, andapprove everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage toreprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendshipof such persons is without attachment, and their love without affectionor even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetrationis ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment. It shouldbe remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceedfrom an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a longexperience and thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinize the conductand dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the firstfair appearances. Addison, who was not deficient in a knowledge ofmankind, observes that "a friendship, which makes the least noise, isvery often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudentfriend to a zealous one. " And Joanna Baillie tells us that

 "Friendship is no plant of hasty growth, Though planted in esteem's deep-fixed soil, The gradual culture of kind intercourse Must bring it to perfection. "

8. HOSPITALITY IS A MOST EXCELLENT VIRTUE; but care must be taken thatthe love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailingpassion; for then the habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. Reality and truthfulness in this, as in all other duties of life, arethe points to be studied; for, as Washington Irving well says, "There isan emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot bedescribed, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at hisease. " With respect to the continuance of friendships, however, it maybe found necessary, in some cases, for a mistress to relinquish, onassuming the responsibility of a household, many of those commenced inthe earlier part of her life. This will be the more requisite, if thenumber still retained be quite equal to her means and opportunities. 

9. IN CONVERSATION, TRIFLING OCCURRENCES, such as small disappointments, petty annoyances, and other every-day incidents, should never bementioned to your friends. The extreme injudiciousness of repeatingthese will be at once apparent, when we reflect on the unsatisfactorydiscussions which they too frequently occasion, and on the load ofadvice which they are the cause of being tendered, and which is, toooften, of a kind neither to be useful nor agreeable. Greater events, whether of joy or sorrow, should be communicated to friends; and, onsuch occasions, their sympathy gratifies and comforts. If the mistressbe a wife, never let an account of her husband's failings pass her lips;and in cultivating the power of conversation, she should keep theversified advice of Cowper continually in her memory, that it

 "Should flow like water after summer showers, Not as if raised by mere mechanic powers. "

In reference to its style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself greatlydistinguished for his colloquial abilities, says that "no style is moreextensively acceptable than the narrative, because this does not carryan air of superiority over the rest of the company; and, therefore, ismost likely to please them. For this purpose we should store our memorywith short anecdotes and entertaining pieces of history. Almost everyone listens with eagerness to extemporary history. Vanity oftenco-operates with curiosity; for he that is a hearer in one place wishesto qualify himself to be a principal speaker in some inferior company;and therefore more attention is given to narrations than anything elsein conversation. It is true, indeed, that sallies of wit and quickreplies are very pleasing in conversation; but they frequently tend toraise envy in some of the company: but the narrative way neither raisesthis, nor any other evil passion, but keeps all the company nearly uponan equality, and, if judiciously managed, will at once entertain andimprove them all. "

10. GOOD TEMPER SHOULD BE CULTIVATED by every mistress, as upon it thewelfare of the household may be said to turn; indeed, its influence canhardly be over-estimated, as it has the effect of moulding thecharacters of those around her, and of acting most beneficially on thehappiness of the domestic circle. Every head of a household shouldstrive to be cheerful, and should never fail to show a deep interest inall that appertains to the well-being of those who claim the protectionof her roof. Gentleness, not partial and temporary, but universal andregular, should pervade her conduct; for where such a spirit ishabitually manifested, it not only delights her children, but makes herdomestics attentive and respectful; her visitors are also pleased by it, and their happiness is increased. 

11. ON THE IMPORTANT SUBJECT OF DRESS AND FASHION we cannot do betterthan quote an opinion from the eighth volume of the "Englishwoman'sDomestic Magazine. " The writer there says, "Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever isthe prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never _look_ as ridiculous as another, or as any other, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming, is totally oppositein style to that generally worn. "

12. IN PURCHASING ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, whether it be a silkdress, a bonnet, shawl, or riband, it is well for the buyer to considerthree things: I. That it be not too expensive for her purse. II. Thatits colour harmonize with her complexion, and its size and pattern withher figure. III. That its tint allow of its being worn with the othergarments she possesses. The quaint Fuller observes, that the good wifeis none of our dainty dames, who love to appear in a variety of suitsevery day new, as if a gown, like a stratagem in war, were to be usedbut once. But our good wife sets up a sail according to the keel of herhusband's estate; and, if of high parentage, she doth not so rememberwhat she was by birth, that she forgets what she is by match. 

 To _Brunettes_, or those ladies having dark complexions, silks of a grave hue are adapted. For _Blondes_, or those having fair complexions, lighter colours are preferable, as the richer, deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter. The colours which go best together are green with violet; gold-colour with dark crimson or lilac; pale blue with scarlet; pink with black or white; and gray with scarlet or pink. A cold colour generally requires a warm tint to give life to it. Gray and pale blue, for instance, do not combine well, both being cold colours. 

13. THE DRESS OF THE MISTRESS should always be adapted to hercircumstances, and be varied with different occasions. Thus, atbreakfast she should be attired in a very neat and simple manner, wearing no ornaments. If this dress should decidedly pertain only to thebreakfast-hour, and be specially suited for such domestic occupations asusually follow that meal, then it would be well to exchange it beforethe time for receiving visitors, if the mistress be in the habit ofdoing so. It is still to be remembered, however, that, in changing thedress, jewellery and ornaments are not to be worn until the full dressfor dinner is assumed. Further information and hints on the subject ofthe toilet will appear under the department of the "LADY'S-MAID. "

 The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Shakspeare's tragedy of "Hamlet, " is most excellent; and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to a "fayre ladye:"--

 "Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man. "

14. CHARITY AND BENEVOLENCE ARE DUTIES which a mistress owes to herselfas well as to her fellow-creatures; and there is scarcely any income sosmall, but something may be spared from it, even if it be but "thewidow's mite. " It is to be always remembered, however, that it is the_spirit_ of charity which imparts to the gift a value far beyond itsactual amount, and is by far its better part. 

 True Charity, a plant divinely nursed, Fed by the love from which it rose at first, Thrives against hope, and, in the rudest scene, Storms but enliven its unfading green; Exub'rant is the shadow it supplies, Its fruit on earth, its growth above the skies. 

 Visiting the houses of the poor is the only practical way really to understand the actual state of each family; and although there may be difficulties in following out this plan in the metropolis and other large cities, yet in country towns and rural districts these objections do not obtain. Great advantages may result from visits paid to the poor; for there being, unfortunately, much ignorance, generally, amongst them with respect to all household knowledge, there will be opportunities for advising and instructing them, in a pleasant and unobtrusive manner, in cleanliness, industry, cookery, and good management. 

15. IN MARKETING, THAT THE BEST ARTICLES ARE THE CHEAPEST, may be laiddown as a rule; and it is desirable, unless an experienced andconfidential housekeeper be kept, that the mistress should herselfpurchase all provisions and stores needed for the house. If the mistressbe a young wife, and not accustomed to order "things for the house, " alittle practice and experience will soon teach her who are the besttradespeople to deal with, and what are the best provisions to buy. Under each particular head of FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, &c. , will bedescribed the proper means of ascertaining the quality of thesecomestibles. 

16. A HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNT-BOOK should invariably be kept, and keptpunctually and precisely. The plan for keeping household accounts, whichwe should recommend, would be to make an entry, that is, write down intoa daily diary every amount paid on that particular day, be it ever sosmall; then, at the end of the month, let these various payments beranged under their specific heads of Butcher, Baker, &c. ; and thus willbe seen the proportions paid to each tradesman, and any one month'sexpenses may be contrasted with another. The housekeeping accountsshould be balanced not less than once a month; so that you may see thatthe money you have in hand tallies with your account of it in yourdiary. Judge Haliburton never wrote truer words than when he said, "Noman is rich whose expenditure exceeds his means, and no one is poorwhose incomings exceed his outgoings. "

 When, in a large establishment, a housekeeper is kept, it will be advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly. Then any increase of expenditure which may be apparent, can easily be explained, and the housekeeper will have the satisfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her department well and economically, have been successful. 

17. ENGAGING DOMESTICS is one of those duties in which the judgment ofthe mistress must be keenly exercised. There are some respectableregistry-offices, where good servants may sometimes be hired; but theplan rather to be recommended is, for the mistress to make inquiryamongst her circle of friends and acquaintances, and her tradespeople. The latter generally know those in their neighbourhood, who are wantingsituations, and will communicate with them, when a personal interviewwith some of them will enable the mistress to form some idea of thecharacters of the applicants, and to suit herself accordingly. 

 We would here point out an error--and a grave one it is--into which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, expressly tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform. This is an act of omission severely to be reprehended. Every portion of work which the maid will have to do, should be plainly stated by the mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, domestic contention is almost certain to ensue, and this may not be easily settled; so that a change of servants, which is so much to be deprecated, is continually occurring. 

18. IN OBTAINING A SERVANT'S CHARACTER, it is not well to be guided by awritten one from some unknown quarter; but it is better to have aninterview, if at all possible, with the former mistress. By this meansyou will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servantfor your place, from the appearance of the lady and the state of herhouse. Negligence and want of cleanliness in her and her householdgenerally, will naturally lead you to the conclusion, that her servanthas suffered from the influence of the bad example. 

 The proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal interview with the lady is this:--The servant in search of the situation must be desired to see her former mistress, and ask her to be kind enough to appoint a time, convenient to herself, when you may call on her; this proper observance of courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of her former servant; and if no objection is stated in that respect, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the weak points of your domestic. 

19. THE TREATMENT OF SERVANTS is of the highest possible moment, as wellto the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the head of the housethe latter will naturally fix their attention; and if they perceive thatthe mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, theywill not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent desire is shown topromote their comfort, at the same time that a steady performance oftheir duty is exacted, then their respect will not be unmingled withaffection, and they will be still more solicitous to continue to deserveher favour. 

20. IN GIVING A CHARACTER, it is scarcely necessary to say that themistress should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not fairfor one lady to recommend to another, a servant she would not keepherself. The benefit, too, to the servant herself is of small advantage;for the failings which she possesses will increase if suffered to beindulged with impunity. It is hardly necessary to remark, on the otherhand, that no angry feelings on the part of a mistress towards her lateservant, should ever be allowed, in the slightest degree, to influenceher, so far as to induce her to disparage her maid's character. 

21. THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF THE AVERAGE YEARLY WAGES paid to domestics, with the various members of the household placed in the order in whichthey are usually ranked, will serve as a guide to regulate theexpenditure of an establishment:--

 When not found in When found in Livery. Livery. 

 The House Steward From £10 to £80 -- The Valet " 25 to 50 From £20 to £30 The Butler " 25 to 50 -- The Cook " 20 to 40 -- The Gardener " 20 to 40 -- The Footman " 20 to 40 " 15 to 25 The Under Butler " 15 to 30 " 15 to 25 The Coachman -- " 20 to 35 The Groom " 15 to 30 " 12 to 20 The Under Footman -- " 12 to 20 The Page or Footboy " 8 to 18 " 6 to 14 The Stableboy " 6 to 12 --

 When no extra When an extra allowance is made for allowance is made for Tea, Sugar, and Beer. Tea, Sugar, and Beer. 

 The Housekeeper From £20 to £15 From £18 to £40 The Lady's-maid " 12 to 25 " 10 to 20 The Head Nurse " 15 to 30 " 13 to 26 The Cook " 11 to 30 " 12 to 26 The Upper Housemaid " 12 to 20 " 10 to 17 The Upper Laundry-maid " 12 to 18 " 10 to 15 The Maid-of-all-work " 9 to 14 " 7-1/2 to 11 The Under Housemaid " 8 to 12 " 6-1/2 to 10 The Still-room Maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 13 The Nursemaid " 8 to 12 " 5 to 10 The Under Laundry-maid " 9 to 11 " 8 to 12 The Kitchen-maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 12 The Scullery-maid " 5 to 9 " 4 to 8

 These quotations of wages are those usually given in or near the metropolis; but, of course, there are many circumstances connected with locality, and also having reference to the long service on the one hand, or the inexperience on the other, of domestics, which may render the wages still higher or lower than those named above. All the domestics mentioned in the above table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman. The number of servants, of course, would become smaller in proportion to the lesser size of the establishment; and we may here enumerate a scale of servants suited to various incomes, commencing with--

 About £1, 000 a year--A cook, upper housemaid, nursemaid, under housemaid, and a man servant. About £750 a year--A cook, housemaid, nursemaid, and footboy. About £500 a year--A cook, housemaid, and nursemaid. About £300 a year--A maid-of-all-work and nursemaid. About £200 or £150 a year--A maid-of-all-work (and girl occasionally). 

22. HAVING THUS INDICATED some of the more general duties of themistress, relative to the moral government of her household, we will nowgive a few specific instructions on matters having a more practicalrelation to the position which she is supposed to occupy in the eye ofthe world. To do this the more clearly, we will begin with her earliestduties, and take her completely through the occupations of a day. 

23. HAVING RISEN EARLY, as we have already advised (_see_ 3), and havinggiven due attention to the bath, and made a careful toilet, it will bewell at once to see that the children have received their properablutions, and are in every way clean and comfortable. The first meal ofthe day, breakfast, will then be served, at which all the family shouldbe punctually present, unless illness, or other circumstances, prevent. 

24. AFTER BREAKFAST IS OVER, it will be well for the mistress to make around of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all are in order, and that the morning's work has been properly performed by the variousdomestics. The orders for the day should then be given, and anyquestions which the domestics desire to ask, respecting their severaldepartments, should be answered, and any special articles they mayrequire, handed to them from the store-closet. 

 In those establishments where there is a housekeeper, it will not be so necessary for the mistress, personally, to perform the above-named duties. 

25. AFTER THIS GENERAL SUPERINTENDENCE of her servants, the mistress, ifa mother of a young family, may devote herself to the instruction ofsome of its younger members, or to the examination of the state of theirwardrobe, leaving the later portion of the morning for reading, or forsome amusing recreation. "Recreation, " says Bishop Hall, "is intended tothe mind as whetting is to the scythe, to sharpen the edge of it, whichwould otherwise grow dull and blunt. He, therefore, that spends hiswhole time in recreation is ever whetting, never mowing; his grass maygrow and his steed starve; as, contrarily, he that always toils andnever recreates, is ever mowing, never whetting, labouring much tolittle purpose. As good no scythe as no edge. Then only doth the work goforward, when the scythe is so seasonably and moderately whetted that itmay cut, and so cut, that it may have the help of sharpening. "

 Unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed, and she be obliged to devote a great deal of her time to the making of her children's clothes, and other economical pursuits, it is right that she should give some time to the pleasures of literature, the innocent delights of the garden, and to the improvement of any special abilities for music, painting, and other elegant arts, which she may, happily, possess. 

26. THESE DUTIES AND PLEASURES BEING PERFORMED AND ENJOYED, the hour ofluncheon will have arrived. This is a very necessary meal between anearly breakfast and a late dinner, as a healthy person, with goodexercise, should have a fresh supply of food once in four hours. Itshould be a light meal; but its solidity must, of course, be, in somedegree, proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to waitfor your dinner, and the amount of exercise you take in the mean time. At this time, also, the servants' dinner will be served. 

 In those establishments where an early dinner is served, that will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children and about one o'clock, the mistress and the elder portion of the family make their luncheon at the same time from the same joint, or whatever may be provided. A mistress will arrange, according to circumstances, the serving of the meal; but the more usual plan is for the lady of the house to have the joint brought to her table, and afterwards carried to the nursery. 

27. AFTER LUNCHEON, MORNING CALLS AND VISITS may be made and received. These may be divided under three heads: those of ceremony, friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony, or courtesy, whichoccasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid undervarious circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining ata friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. Thesevisits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes beingquite sufficient. A lady paying a visit may remove her boa orneckerchief; but neither her shawl nor bonnet. 

 When other visitors are announced, it is well to retire as soon as possible, taking care to let it appear that their arrival is not the cause. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascertained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as possible, without, however, showing that you feel yourself an intruder. It is not difficult for any well-bred or even good-tempered person, to know what to say on such an occasion, and, on politely withdrawing, a promise can be made to call again, if the lady you have called on, appear really disappointed. 

28. IN PAYING VISITS OF FRIENDSHIP, it will not be so necessary to beguided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony; and if a lady bepressed by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet, it can be done ifit will not interfere with her subsequent arrangements. It is, however, requisite to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long, ifyour friend is engaged. The courtesies of society should ever bemaintained, even in the domestic circle, and amongst the nearestfriends. During these visits, the manners should be easy and cheerful, and the subjects of conversation such as may be readily terminated. Serious discussions or arguments are to be altogether avoided, and thereis much danger and impropriety in expressing opinions of those personsand characters with whom, perhaps, there is but a slight acquaintance. (_See_ 6, 7, and 9. )

 It is not advisable, at any time, to take favourite dogs into another lady's drawing-room, for many persons have an absolute dislike to such animals; and besides this, there is always a chance of a breakage of some article occurring, through their leaping and bounding here and there, sometimes very much to the fear and annoyance of the hostess. Her children, also, unless they are particularly well-trained and orderly, and she is on exceedingly friendly terms with the hostess, should not accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however, pays her visits in a carriage, the children can be taken in the vehicle, and remain in it until the visit is over. 

29. FOR MORNING CALLS, it is well to be neatly attired; for a costumevery different to that you generally wear, or anything approaching anevening dress, will be very much out of place. As a general rule, it maybe said, both in reference to this and all other occasions, it is betterto be under-dressed than over-dressed. 

 A strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits, and notice how soon your visits have been returned. An opinion may thus be formed as to whether your frequent visits are, or are not, desirable. There are, naturally, instances when the circumstances of old age or ill health will preclude any return of a call; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty. 

30. IN PAYING VISITS OF CONDOLENCE, it is to be remembered that theyshould be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. Ifthe acquaintance, however, is but slight, then immediately after thefamily has appeared at public worship. A lady should send in her card, and if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner andconversation should be subdued and in harmony with the character of hervisit. Courtesy would dictate that a mourning card should be used, andthat visitors, in paying condoling visits, should be dressed in black, either silk or plain-coloured apparel. Sympathy with the affliction ofthe family, is thus expressed, and these attentions are, in such cases, pleasing and soothing. 

 In all these visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card should be left. If in a carriage, the servant will answer your inquiry and receive your card; if paying your visits on foot, give your card to the servant in the hall, but leave to go in and rest should on no account be asked. The form of words, "Not at home, " may be understood in different senses; but the only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true. You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may think that your acquaintance is not desired; but, in either case, not the slightest word is to escape you, which would suggest, on your part, such an impression. 

31. IN RECEIVING MORNING CALLS, the foregoing description of theetiquette to be observed in paying them, will be of considerableservice. It is to be added, however, that the occupations of drawing, music, or reading should be suspended on the entrance of morningvisitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, and noneother is appropriate in the drawing-room, it may not be, under somecircumstances, inconsistent with good breeding to quietly continue itduring conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted, or thevisitors be gentlemen. 

 Formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the house to the door, and there take leave of them; but modern society, which has thrown off a great deal of this kind of ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat, shake hands, or courtesy, in accordance with the intimacy she has with her guests, and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a first call, either upon a newly-married couple, or persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's card together with her own, at the same time, stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the visit, with her. It is a custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood, to leave or send their own and husband's cards, with the letters P. P. C. In the right-hand corner. These letters are the initials of the French words, "_Pour prendre congé_, " meaning, "To take leave. "

32. THE MORNING CALLS BEING PAID OR RECEIVED, and their etiquetteproperly attended to, the next great event of the day in mostestablishments is "The Dinner;" and we only propose here to make a fewgeneral remarks on this important topic, as, in future pages, the whole"Art of Dining" will be thoroughly considered, with reference to itseconomy, comfort, and enjoyment. 

33. IN GIVING OR ACCEPTING AN INVITATION FOR DINNER, the following isthe form of words generally made use of. They, however, can be varied inproportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guests:--

 Mr. And Mrs. A---- present their compliments to Mr. And Mrs. B----, and request the honour, [or hope to have the pleasure] of their company to dinner on Wednesday, the 6th of December next. 

 A---- STREET, _November 13th, 1859. R. S. V. P. _

The letters in the corner imply "_Répondez, s'il vous plaît;_" meaning, "an answer will oblige. " The reply, accepting the invitation, is couchedin the following terms:--

 Mr. And Mrs. B---- present their compliments to Mr. And Mrs. A---, and will do themselves the honour of, [or will have much pleasure in] accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the 6th of December next. 

 B---- SQUARE, _November 18th, 1859. _

 Cards, or invitations for a dinner-party, should be issued a fortnight or three weeks (sometimes even a month) beforehand, and care should be taken by the hostess, in the selection of the invited guests, that they should be suited to each other. Much also of the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the arrangement of the guests at table, so as to form a due admixture of talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay. If an invitation to dinner is accepted, the guests should be punctual, and the mistress ready in her drawing-room to receive them. At some periods it has been considered fashionable to come late to dinner, but lately _nous avons changé tout cela_. 

34. THE HALF-HOUR BEFORE DINNER has always been considered as the greatordeal through which the mistress, in giving a dinner-party, will eitherpass with flying colours, or, lose many of her laurels. The anxiety toreceive her guests, --her hope that all will be present in due time, --hertrust in the skill of her cook, and the attention of the otherdomestics, all tend to make these few minutes a trying time. Themistress, however, must display no kind of agitation, but show her tactin suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation, which will bemuch aided by the introduction of any particular new book, curiosity ofart, or article of vertu, which may pleasantly engage the attention ofthe company. "Waiting for Dinner, " however, is a trying time, and thereare few who have not felt--

 "How sad it is to sit and pine, The long _half-hour_ before we dine! Upon our watches oft to look, Then wonder at the clock and cook, * * * * * "And strive to laugh in spite of Fate! But laughter forced soon quits the room, And leaves it in its former gloom. But lo! the dinner now appears, The object of our hopes and fears, The end of all our pain!"

 In giving an entertainment of this kind, the mistress should remember that it is her duty to make her guests feel happy, comfortable, and quite at their ease; and the guests should also consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be happy. Thus an opportunity is given to all for innocent enjoyment and intellectual improvement, when also acquaintances may be formed that may prove invaluable through life, and information gained that will enlarge the mind. Many celebrated men and women have been great talkers; and, amongst others, the genial Sir Walter Scott, who spoke freely to every one, and a favourite remark of whom it was, that he never did so without learning something he didn't know before. 

35. DINNER BEING ANNOUNCED, the host offers his arm to, and places onhis right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to paymost respect, either on account of her age, position, or from her beingthe greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and herhusband present, the latter takes the hostess to her place at table, andseats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow incouples, as specified by the master and mistress of the house, arrangingthe party according to their rank and other circumstances which may beknown to the host and hostess. 

 It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly (and correctly) written on small cards, and placed at that part of the table where it is desired they should sit. With respect to the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is, perhaps, in a general way, sufficient to enjoy themselves and be enjoyed. White kid gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the business of dining commences. 

36. THE GUESTS BEING SEATED AT THE DINNER-TABLE, the lady begins to helpthe soup, which is handed round, commencing with the gentleman on herright and on her left, and continuing in the same order till all areserved. It is generally established as a rule, not to ask for soup orfish twice, as, in so doing, part of the company may be kept waiting toolong for the second course, when, perhaps, a little revenge is taken bylooking at the awkward consumer of a second portion. This rule, however, may, under various circumstances, not be considered as binding. 

 It is not usual, where taking wine is _en règle_, for a gentleman to ask a lady to take wine until the fish or soup is finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she will do him the honour of taking wine with him. This will act as a signal to the rest of the company, the gentleman of the house most probably requesting the same pleasure of the ladies at his right and left. At many tables, however, the custom or fashion of drinking wine in this manner, is abolished, and the servant fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to the course which is in progress. 

37. WHEN DINNER IS FINISHED, THE DESSERT is placed on the table, accompanied with finger-glasses. It is the custom of some gentlemen towet a corner of the napkin; but the hostess, whose behaviour will setthe tone to all the ladies present, will merely wet the tips of herfingers, which will serve all the purposes required. The French andother continentals have a habit of gargling the mouth; but it is acustom which no English gentlewoman should, in the slightest degree, imitate. 

38. WHEN FRUIT HAS BEEN TAKEN, and a glass or two of wine passed round, the time will have arrived when the hostess will rise, and thus give thesignal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen, and retire to thedrawing-room. The gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time, andhe who is nearest the door, will open it for the ladies, all remainingcourteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. Dr. Johnson hasa curious paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men. "Before dinner, "he says, "men meet with great inequality of understanding; and those whoare conscious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk. Whenthey have drunk wine, every man feels himself happy, and loses thatmodesty, and grows impudent and vociferous; but he is not improved, heis only not sensible of his defects. " This is rather severe, but theremay be truth in it. 

 In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests, it was necessary for the ladies to retire earlier than they do at present, for the gentlemen of the company soon became unfit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential in the presence of ladies. Thanks, however, to the improvements in modern society, and the high example shown to the nation by its most illustrious personages, temperance is, in these happy days, a striking feature in the character of a gentleman. Delicacy of conduct towards the female sex has increased with the esteem in which they are now universally held, and thus, the very early withdrawing of the ladies from the dining-room is to be deprecated. A lull in the conversation will seasonably indicate the moment for the ladies' departure. 

39. AFTER-DINNER INVITATIONS MAY BE GIVEN; by which we wish to beunderstood, invitations for the evening. The time of the arrival ofthese visitors will vary according to their engagements, or sometimeswill be varied in obedience to the caprices of fashion. Guests invitedfor the evening are, however, generally considered at liberty to arrivewhenever it will best suit themselves, --usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, manyfashionable people and others, who have numerous engagements to fulfil, often contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in thecourse of one evening. 

40. THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER-PARTY TABLE being disposed of, let usnow enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball. Theinvitations issued and accepted for either of these, will be written inthe same style as those already described for a dinner-party. Theyshould be sent out _at least_ three weeks before the day fixed for theevent, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. Byattending to these courtesies, the guests will have time to considertheir engagements and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will, also, know what will be the number of her party. 

 If the entertainment is to be simply an evening party, this must be specified on the card or note of invitation. Short or verbal invitations, except where persons are exceedingly intimate, or are very near relations, are very far from proper, although, of course, in this respect and in many other respects, very much always depends on the manner in which the invitation is given. True politeness, however, should be studied even amongst the nearest friends and relations; for the mechanical forms of good breeding are of great consequence, and too much familiarity may have, for its effect, the destruction of friendship. 

41. AS THE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN ARRIVE, each should be shown to a roomexclusively provided for their reception; and in that set apart for theladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking, andhelping to arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it. It willbe found convenient, in those cases where the number of guests is large, to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaksand shawls of each lady, a duplicate of which should be handed to theguest. Coffee is sometimes provided in this, or an ante-room, for thosewho would like to partake of it. 

42. AS THE VISITORS ARE ANNOUNCED BY THE SERVANT, it is not necessaryfor the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door, butmerely to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies andcongratulations. If, indeed, the hostess wishes to show particularfavour to some peculiarly honoured guests, she may introduce them toothers, whose acquaintance she may imagine will be especially suitableand agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the houseto introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the ladyperforms this office; when it will, of course, be polite for the personsthus introduced to take their seats together for the time being. 

 The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them. The servant, indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many instances, mispronounces them; so that it will not be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring guide. In our opinion, it is a cheerless and depressing custom, although, in thus speaking, we do not allude to the large assemblies of the aristocracy, but to the smaller parties of the middle classes. 

43. A SEPARATE ROOM OR CONVENIENT BUFFET should be appropriated forrefreshments, and to which the dancers may retire; and cakes andbiscuits, with wine negus, lemonade, and ices, handed round. A supper isalso mostly provided at the private parties of the middle classes; andthis requires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention andsupervision. It usually takes place between the first and second partsof the programme of the dances, of which there should be severalprettily written or printed copies distributed about the ball-room. 

 _In private parties_, a lady is not to refuse the invitation of a gentleman to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The hostess must he supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of unblemished character, as well as pretty equal in position; and thus, to decline the offer of any gentleman present, would be a tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the house. It may be mentioned here, more especially for the young who will read this book, that introductions at balls or evening parties, cease with the occasion that calls them forth, no introduction, at these times, giving a gentleman a right to address, afterwards, a lady. She is, consequently, free, next morning, to pass her partner at a ball of the previous evening without the slightest recognition. 

44. THE BALL IS GENERALLY OPENED, that is, the first place in the firstquadrille is occupied, by the lady of the house. When anything preventsthis, the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady who iseither the highest in rank, or the greatest stranger. It will be wellfor the hostess, even if she be very partial to the amusement, and agraceful dancer, not to participate in it to any great extent, lest herlady guests should have occasion to complain of her monopoly of thegentlemen, and other causes of neglect. A few dances will suffice toshow her interest in the entertainment, without unduly trenching on theattention due to her guests. In all its parts a ball should beperfect, --

 "The music, and the banquet, and the wine; The garlands, the rose-odours, and the flowers. "

 The hostess or host, during the progress of a ball, will courteously accost and chat with their friends, and take care that the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint from the hostess, conveyed in a quiet ladylike manner, that certain ladies have remained unengaged during several dances, is sure not to be neglected by any gentleman. Thus will be studied the comfort and enjoyment of the guests, and no lady, in leaving the house, will be able to feel the chagrin and disappointment of not having been invited to "stand up" in a dance during the whole of the evening. 

45. WHEN ANY OF THE CARRIAGES OF THE GUESTS ARE ANNOUNCED, or the timefor their departure arrived, they should make a slight intimation to thehostess, without, however, exciting any observation, that they are aboutto depart. If this cannot be done, however, without creating too muchbustle, it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly withouttaking their leave. During the course of the week, the hostess willexpect to receive from every guest a call, where it is possible, orcards expressing the gratification experienced from her entertainment. This attention is due to every lady for the pains and trouble she hasbeen at, and tends to promote social, kindly feelings. 

46. HAVING THUS DISCOURSED of parties of pleasure, it will be aninteresting change to return to the more domestic business of the house, although all the details we have been giving of dinner-parties, balls, and the like, appertain to the department of the mistress. Without aknowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistresswould be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly pleasant meetingswhich give, as it were, a fillip to life, and make the quiet happy homeof an English gentlewoman appear the more delightful and enjoyable. Intheir proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting thedishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables, will be set forth in this work. 

47. A FAMILY DINNER AT HOME, compared with either giving or going to adinner-party, is, of course, of much more frequent occurrence, and manywill say, of much greater importance. Both, however, have to beconsidered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment; and the lattermore particularly with reference to economy. These points will beespecially noted in the following pages on "Household Cookery. " Here wewill only say, that for both mistress and servants, as well in large assmall households, it will be found, by far, the better plan, to cook andserve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with thesame cleanliness, neatness, and scrupulous exactness, whether it be forthe mistress herself alone, a small family, or for "company. " If thisrule be strictly adhered to, all will find themselves increase inmanaging skill; whilst a knowledge of their daily duties will becomefamiliar, and enable them to meet difficult occasions with ease, andovercome any amount of obstacles. 

48. OF THE MANNER OF PASSING EVENINGS AT HOME, there is none pleasanterthan in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind fromits severer duties, whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight. Where there are young people forming a part of the evening circle, interesting and agreeable pastime should especially be promoted. It isof incalculable benefit to them that their homes should possess all theattractions of healthful amusement, comfort, and happiness; for if theydo not find pleasure there, they will seek it elsewhere. It ought, therefore, to enter into the domestic policy of every parent, to makeher children feel that home is the happiest place in the world; that toimbue them with this delicious home-feeling is one of the choicest giftsa parent can bestow. 

 Light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be varied by an occasional game at chess or backgammon. It has often been remarked, too, that nothing is more delightful to the feminine members of a family, than the reading aloud of some good standard work or amusing publication. A knowledge of polite literature may be thus obtained by the whole family, especially if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult passages of the book, and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties it may contain. This plan, in a great measure, realizes the advice of Lord Bacon, who says, "Read not to contradict and refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk and discourse, but to weigh and consider. "

49. IN RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT, it is well to remember that early risingis almost impossible, if late going to bed be the order, or ratherdisorder, of the house. The younger members of a family should go earlyand at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon aspossible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or themistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is right with respect to the lights and fires below; and noservants should, on any account, be allowed to remain up after the headsof the house have retired. 

50. HAVING THUS GONE FROM EARLY RISING TO EARLY RETIRING, there remainonly now to be considered a few special positions respecting which themistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information. 

51. WHEN A MISTRESS TAKES A HOUSE in a new locality, it will beetiquette for her to wait until the older inhabitants of theneighbourhood call upon her; thus evincing a desire, on their part, tobecome acquainted with the new comer. It may be, that the mistress willdesire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours; but itis to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned. 

52. YOU MAY PERHAPS HAVE BEEN FAVOURED with letters of introduction fromsome of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to whichyou have just come. In this case inclose the letter of introduction inan envelope with your card. Then, if the person, to whom it isaddressed, calls in the course of a few days, the visit should bereturned by you within the week, if possible. Any breach of etiquette, in this respect, will not readily be excused. 

 In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above circumstances, nothing but necessity should prevent you from accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct reason why you cannot accept, let it be stated frankly and plainly, for politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied. An opportunity should, also, be taken to call in the course of a day or two, in order to politely express your regret and disappointment at not having been able to avail yourself of their kindness. 

53. IN GIVING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION, it should always be handed toyour friend, unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom youare introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or shewas spoken of. Should you _receive_ a letter from a friend, introducingto you any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter shouldbe immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed to do all inyour power to carry out his or her wishes. 

54. SUCH ARE THE ONEROUS DUTIES which enter into the position of themistress of a house, and such are, happily, with a slight but continuedattention, of by no means difficult performance. She ought always toremember that she is the first and the last, the Alpha and the Omega inthe government of her establishment; and that it is by her conduct thatits whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person offar more importance in a community than she usually thinks she is. Onher pattern her daughters model themselves; by her counsels they aredirected; through her virtues all are honoured;--"her children rise upand call her blessed; her husband, also, and he praiseth her. "Therefore, let each mistress always remember her responsible position, never approving a mean action, nor speaking an unrefined word. Let herconduct be such that her inferiors may respect her, and such as anhonourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife and the motherof his children. Let her think of the many compliments and the sincerehomage that have been paid to her sex by the greatest philosophers andwriters, both in ancient and modern times. Let her not forget that shehas to show herself worthy of Campbell's compliment when he said, --

 "The world was sad! the garden was a wild! And man the hermit sigh'd, till _woman_ smiled. "

Let her prove herself, then, the happy companion of man, and able totake unto herself the praises of the pious prelate, Jeremy Taylor, whosays, --"A good wife is Heaven's last best gift to man, --his angel andminister of graces innumerable, --his gem of many virtues, --his casket ofjewels--her voice is sweet music--her smiles his brightest day;--herkiss, the guardian of his innocence;--her arms, the pale of his safety, the balm of his health, the balsam of his life;--her industry, hissurest wealth;--her economy, his safest steward;--her lips, his faithfulcounsellors;--her bosom, the softest pillow of his cares; and herprayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven's blessings on his head. "

Cherishing, then, in her breast the respected utterances of the good andthe great, let the mistress of every house rise to the responsibility ofits management; so that, in doing her duty to all around her, she mayreceive the genuine reward of respect, love, and affection!

_Note_. --Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, and it is well known that "three removes are as good (or bad, rather) asa fire. " Nevertheless, it being quite evident that we must, in thesedays at least, live in houses, and are sometimes obliged to change ourresidences, it is well to consider some of the conditions which will addto, or diminish, the convenience and comfort of our homes. 

Although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many differentcircumstances with different people, that to give any specificdirections on this head would be impossible and useless; yet it will beadvantageous, perhaps, to many, if we point out some of those generalfeatures as to locality, soil, aspect, &c. , to which the attention ofall house-takers should be carefully directed. 

Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking now more particularly of atown house, that it is very important to the health and comfort of afamily, that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind, producingunwholesome effluvia or smells, should be strictly avoided. Neither isit well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy tradeis carried on, as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends toincrease any existing irritation of the system. 

Referring to soils; it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is superiorto any other, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it isconsequently drier and less damp than clay, upon which water rests a farlonger time. A clay country, too, is not so pleasant for walkingexercise as one in which gravel predominates. 

The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should beborne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house, thehealthier is the habitation. The close, fetid smell which assails one onentering a narrow court, or street, in towns, is to be assigned to thewant of light, and, consequently, air. A house with a south orsouth-west aspect, is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently morehealthy, than one facing the north or north-east. 

Great advances have been made, during the last few years, in theprinciples of sanitary knowledge, and one most essential point to beobserved in reference to a house, is its "drainage, " as it has beenproved in an endless number of cases, that bad or defective drainage isas certain to destroy health as the taking of poisons. This arises fromits injuriously affecting the atmosphere; thus rendering the air webreathe unwholesome and deleterious. Let it be borne in mind, then, thatunless a house is effectually drained, the health of its inhabitants issure to suffer; and they will be susceptible of ague, rheumatism, diarrhoea, fevers, and cholera. 

We now come to an all-important point, --that of the water supply. Thevalue of this necessary article has also been lately more and morerecognized in connection with the question of health and life; and mosthouses are well supplied with every convenience connected with water. Let it, however, be well understood, that no house, however suitable inother respects, can be desirable, if this grand means of health andcomfort is, in the slightest degree, scarce or impure. No caution can betoo great to see that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful; for, knowing, as we do, that not a single part of our daily food is preparedwithout it, the importance of its influence on the health of the inmatesof a house cannot be over-rated. 

Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. In ageneral way, enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors andwindows; but if this be not the case, the chimney will smoke; and otherplans, such as the placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in theupper part of the window, must be used. Cold air should never beadmitted under the doors, or at the bottom of a room, unless it be closeto the fire or stove; for it will flow along the floor towards thefireplace, and thus leave the foul air in the upper part of the room, unpurified, cooling, at the same time, unpleasantly and injuriously, thefeet and legs of the inmates. 

The rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth ofthe whole income of its occupier; and, as a general rule, we aredisposed to assent to this estimate, although there may be manycircumstances which would not admit of its being considered infallible. 

[Illustration]

CHAPTER II. 

THE HOUSEKEEPER. 

55. AS SECOND IN COMMAND IN THE HOUSE, except in large establishments, where there is a house steward, the housekeeper must consider herself asthe immediate representative of her mistress, and bring, to themanagement of the household, all those qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance, in the same degree as if she were at the head of her_own_ family. Constantly on the watch to detect any wrong-doing on thepart of any of the domestics, she will overlook all that goes on in thehouse, and will see that every department is thoroughly attended to, andthat the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their variousduties are properly performed. 

 Cleanliness, punctuality, order, and method, are essentials in the character of a good housekeeper. Without the first, no household can be said to be well managed. The second is equally all-important; for those who are under the housekeeper will take their "cue" from her; and in the same proportion as punctuality governs her movements, so will it theirs. Order, again, is indispensable; for by it we wish to be understood that "there should be a place for everything, and everything in its place. " Method, too, is most necessary; for when the work is properly contrived, and each part arranged in regular succession, it will be done more quickly and more effectually. 

56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is, that she shouldthoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books anaccurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose, all thecurrent expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, and other extraneousmatter. As we have mentioned under the head of the Mistress (_see_ 16), a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically balanced, and examinedby the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of bothemployer and employed, than this arrangement. "Short reckonings makelong friends, " stands good in this case, as in others. 

 It will be found an excellent plan to take an account of every article which comes into the house connected with housekeeping, and is not paid for at the time. The book containing these entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will, by this means, too, be better able to judge of the average consumption of each article by the household; and if that quantity be, at any time, exceeded, the cause may be discovered and rectified, if it proceed from waste or carelessness. 

57. ALTHOUGH IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE COOK, the housekeeper does notgenerally much interfere, yet it is necessary that she should possess agood knowledge of the culinary art, as, in many instances, it may berequisite for her to take the superintendence of the kitchen. As a rule, it may be stated, that the housekeeper, in those establishments wherethere is no house steward or man cook, undertakes the preparation of theconfectionary, attends to the preserving and pickling of fruits andvegetables; and, in a general way, to the more difficult branches of theart of cookery. 

 Much of these arrangements will depend, however, on the qualifications of the cook; for instance, if she be an able artiste, there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper to interfere, except in the already noticed articles of confectionary, &c. On the contrary, if the cook be not so clever an adept in her art, then it will be requisite for the housekeeper to give more of her attention to the business of the kitchen, than in the former case. It will be one of the duties of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing, in the absence of either a house steward or man cook. 

58. THE DAILY DUTIES OF A HOUSEKEEPER are regulated, in a great measure, by the extent of the establishment she superintends. She should, however, rise early, and see that all the domestics are duly performingtheir work, and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for thepreparation of the breakfast for the household and family. Afterbreakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the"housekeeper's room" with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, and wherethey will be waited on by the still-room maid, she will, on various daysset apart for each purpose, carefully examine the household linen, witha view to its being repaired, or to a further quantity being put in handto be made; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house iswell rubbed and polished; and will, besides, attend to all the necessarydetails of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen. 

 The housekeeper's room is generally made use of by the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, who take there their breakfast, tea, and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room, when not engaged with her lady, or with some other duties, which would call her elsewhere. In different establishments, according to their size and the rank of the family, different rules of course prevail. For instance, in the mansions of those of very high rank, and where there is a house steward, there are two distinct tables kept, one in the steward's room for the principal members of the household, the other in the servants' hall, for the other domestics. At the steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and here, also, are present the lady's-maid, butler, valet, and head gardener. Should any visitors be staying with the family, their servants, generally the valet and lady's-maid, will be admitted to the steward's table. 

59. AFTER DINNER, the housekeeper, having seen that all the members ofthe establishment have regularly returned to their various duties, andthat all the departments of the household are in proper working order, will have many important matters claiming her attention. She will, possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article ofconfectionary, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processesof the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creamsto make; and all these employments call for no ordinary degree of care, taste, and attention. 

 The still-room was formerly much more in vogue than at present; for in days of "auld lang syne, " the still was in constant requisition for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters for the purposes of cookery, scents and aromatic substances used in the preparation of the toilet, and cordials in cases of accidents and illness. There are some establishments, however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these, the still-room maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however, this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the breakfast-table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper's room (_see_ 58). A still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connection with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may soon fit herself for a better position in the household. 

60. IN THE EVENING, the housekeeper will often busy herself with thenecessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, butstill important arrangements, will have to be made, so that everythingmay move smoothly. At times, perhaps, attention will have to be paid tothe breaking of lump-sugar, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying of currants, &c. The evening, too, is the besttime for setting right her account of the expenditure, and duly writinga statement of moneys received and paid, and also for making memorandaof any articles she may require for her storeroom or other departments. 

 Periodically, at some convenient time, --for instance, quarterly or half-yearly, it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory of everything she has under her care, and compare this with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to furnish a statement, if necessary, of the articles which, on account of time, breakage, loss, or other causes, it has been necessary to replace or replenish. 

61. IN CONCLUDING THESE REMARKS on the duties of the housekeeper, wewill briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches toher position. Like "Caesar's wife, " she should be "above suspicion, " andher honesty and sobriety unquestionable; for there are many temptationsto which she is exposed. In a physical point of view, a housekeepershould be healthy and strong, and be particularly clean in her person, and her hands, although they may show a degree of roughness, from thenature of some of her employments, yet should have a nice invitingappearance. In her dealings with the various tradesmen, and in herbehaviour to the domestics under her, the demeanour and conduct of thehousekeeper should be such as, in neither case, to diminish, by an unduefamiliarity, her authority or influence. 

_Note_. --It will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know thebest seasons for various occupations connected with HouseholdManagement; and we, accordingly, subjoin a few hints which we think willprove valuable. 

As, in the winter months, servants have much more to do, in consequenceof the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughoutthe household, not much more than the ordinary every-day work can beattempted. 

In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics moreleisure, then any extra work that is required, can be more easilyperformed. 

The spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, andremoving all the dust and dirt, which will necessarily, with the best ofhousewives, accumulate during the winter months, from the smoke of thecoal, oil, gas, &c. This season is also well adapted for washing andbleaching linen, &c. , as, the weather, not being then too hot for theexertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy thingsin general, the work is better and more easily done than in the intenseheats of July, which month some recommend for these purposes. Wintercurtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white ones;and furs and woollen cloths also carefully laid by. The former should bewell shaken and brushed, and then pinned upon paper or linen, withcamphor to preserve them from the moths. Furs, &c. , will be preserved inthe same way. Included, under the general description of house-cleaning, must be understood, turning out all the nooks and corners of drawers, cupboards, lumber-rooms, lofts, &c. , with a view of getting rid of allunnecessary articles, which only create dirt and attract vermin;sweeping of chimneys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing thekitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generallyspeaking, the house putting on, with the approaching summer, a brightappearance, and a new face, in unison with nature. Oranges now should bepreserved, and orange wine made. 

The summer will be found, as we have mentioned above, in consequence ofthe diminution of labour for the domestics, the best period forexamining and repairing household linen, and for "putting to rights" allthose articles which have received a large share of wear and tear duringthe dark winter days. In direct reference to this matter, we may hereremark, that sheets should be turned "sides to middle" before they areallowed to get very thin. Otherwise, patching, which is uneconomicalfrom the time it consumes, and is unsightly in point of appearance, willhave to be resorted to. In June and July, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, and other summer fruits, should be preserved, and jams and jellies made. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchupshould be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approachingperfection for this purpose. Mixed pickles may also be now made, and itwill be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice (for themaking of which all information will be given in future pages), intowhich to put occasionally some young French beans, cauliflowers, &c. 

In the early autumn, plums of various kinds are to be bottled andpreserved, and jams and jellies made. A little later, tomato sauce, amost useful article to have by you, may be prepared; a supply of appleslaid in, if you have a place to keep them, as also a few keeping pearsand filberts. Endeavour to keep also a large vegetable marrow, --it willbe found delicious in the winter. 

In October and November, it will be necessary to prepare for the coldweather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members ofthe family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, the fireplaces, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the House put in athorough state of repair, so that no "loose tile" may, at a future day, interfere with your comfort, and extract something considerable fromyour pocket. 

In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for thecreature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet oldChristmas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder; and instoning the plums, washing the currants, cutting the citron, beating theeggs, and MIXING THE PUDDING, a housewife is not unworthily greeting thegenial season of all good things. 

[Illustration]

CHAPTER III. 

ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN. 

62. "THE DISTRIBUTION OF A KITCHEN, " says Count Rumford, the celebratedphilosopher and physician, who wrote so learnedly on all subjectsconnected with domestic economy and architecture, "must always depend somuch on local circumstances, that general rules can hardly be givenrespecting it; the principles, however, on which this distributionought, in all cases, to be made, are simple and easy to be understood, "and, in his estimation, these resolve themselves into symmetry ofproportion in the building and convenience to the cook. The requisitesof a good kitchen, however, demand something more special than is herepointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory ofevery household, and that much of the "weal or woe, " as far as regardsbodily health, depends upon the nature of the preparations concoctedwithin its walls. A good kitchen, therefore, should be erected with aview to the following particulars. 1. Convenience of distribution in itsparts, with largeness of dimension. 2. Excellence of light, height ofceiling, and good ventilation. 3. Easiness of access, without passingthrough the house. 4. Sufficiently remote from the principal apartmentsof the house, that the members, visitors, or guests of the family, maynot perceive the odour incident to cooking, or hear the noise ofculinary operations. 5. Plenty of fuel and water, which, with thescullery, pantry, and storeroom, should be so near it, as to offer thesmallest possible trouble in reaching them. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 1. ]

 The kitchens of the Middle Ages, in England, are said to have been constructed after the fashion of those of the Romans. They were generally octagonal, with several fireplaces, but no chimneys; neither was there any wood admitted into the building. The accompanying cut, fig. 1, represents the turret which was erected on the top of the conical roof of the kitchen at Glastonbury Abbey, and which was perforated with holes to allow the smoke of the fire, as well as the steam from cooking, to escape. Some kitchens had funnels or vents below the eaves to let out the steam, which was sometimes considerable, as the Anglo-Saxons used their meat chiefly in a boiled state. From this circumstance, some of their large kitchens had four ranges, comprising a boiling-place for small boiled meats, and a boiling-house for the great boiler. In private houses the culinary arrangements were no doubt different; for Du Cange mentions a little kitchen with a chamber, even in a solarium, or upper floor. 

63. THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES has frequently been an objectof poetical admiration, and it delights the imagination to picture menliving upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, anddesiring no other beverages to slake their thirst, but such as fountainsand rivers supply. Thus we are told, that the ancient inhabitants ofArgos lived principally on pears; that the Arcadians revelled in acorns, and the Athenians in figs. This, of course, was in the golden age, before ploughing began, and when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plentywithout having to earn their bread "by the sweat of their brow. " Thisdelightful period, however, could not last for ever, and the earthbecame barren, and continued unfruitful till Ceres came and taught theart of sowing, with several other useful inventions. The first whom shetaught to till the ground was Triptolemus, who communicated hisinstructions to his countrymen the Athenians. Thence the art was carriedinto Achaia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first grain thatwas used, and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to Pan. 

 The use of fire, as an instrument of cookery, must have been coeval with this invention of bread, which, being the most necessary of all kinds of food, was frequently used in a sense so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink. It was, by the Greeks, baked under the ashes. 

64. IN THE PRIMARY AGES it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh, and whenmankind began to depart from their primitive habits, the flesh of swinewas the first that was eaten. For several ages, it was pronouncedunlawful to slaughter oxen, from an estimate of their great value inassisting men to cultivate the ground; nor was it usual to kill younganimals, from a sentiment which considered it cruel to take away thelife of those that had scarcely tasted the joys of existence. 

 At this period no cooks were kept, and we know from Homer that his ancient heroes prepared and dressed their victuals with their own hands. Ulysses, for example, we are told, like a modern charwoman, excelled at lighting a fire, whilst Achilles was an adept at turning a spit. Subsequently, heralds, employed in civil and military affairs, filled the office of cooks, and managed marriage feasts; but this, no doubt, was after mankind had advanced in the art of living, a step further than _roasting_, which, in all places, was the ancient manner of dressing meat. 

65. THE AGE OF ROASTING we may consider as that in which the use of themetals would be introduced as adjuncts to the culinary art; and amongstthese, iron, the most useful of them all, would necessarily take aprominent place. This metal is easily oxidized, but to bring it to astate of fusibility, it requires a most intense heat. Of all the metals, it is the widest diffused and most abundant; and few stones or mineralbodies are without an admixture of it. It possesses the valuableproperty of being welded by hammering; and hence its adaptation to thenumerous purposes of civilized life. 

 Metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and a twelfth of the weight of the wood of dried oak is said to consist of this metal. Blood owes its colour of redness to the quantity of iron it contains, and rain and snow are seldom perfectly free from it. In the arts it is employed in three states, --as _cast_ iron, _wrought_ iron, and _steel_. In each of these it largely enters into the domestic economy, and stoves, grates, and the general implements of cookery, are usually composed of it. In antiquity, its employment was, comparatively speaking, equally universal. The excavations made at Pompeii have proved this. The accompanying cuts present us with specimens of stoves, both ancient and modern. Fig. 2 is the remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of Pansa, at Pompeii, and would seem, in its perfect state, not to have been materially different from such as are in use at the present day. Fig. 3 is a self-acting, simple open range in modern use, and may be had of two qualities, ranging, according to their dimensions, from £3. 10s. And £3. 18s. Respectively, up to £4. 10s. And £7. 5s. They are completely fitted up with oven, boiler, sliding cheek, wrought-iron bars, revolving shelves, and brass tap. Fig. 4, is called the Improved Leamington Kitchener, and is said to surpass any other range in use, for easy cooking by one fire. It has a hot plate, which is well calculated for an ironing-stove, and on which as many vessels as will stand upon it, may be kept boiling, without being either soiled or injured. Besides, it has a perfectly ventilated and spacious wrought-iron roaster, with movable shelves, draw-out stand, double dripping-pan, and meat-stand. The roaster can be converted into an oven by closing the valves, when bread and pastry can be baked in it in a superior manner. It also has a large iron boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons for chops and steaks, ash-pan, open fire for roasting, and a set of ornamental covings with plate-warmer attached. It took a first-class prize and medal in the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was also exhibited, with all the recent improvements, at the Dublin Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 is another kitchener, adapted for large families. It has on the one side, a large ventilated oven; and on the other, the fire and roaster. The hot plate is over all, and there is a back boiler, made of wrought iron, with brass tap and steam-pipe. In other respects it resembles Fig. 4, with which it possesses similar advantages of construction. Either maybe had at varying prices, according to size, from £5. 15s. Up to £23. 10s. They are supplied by Messrs. Richard & John Slack 336, Strand, London. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 2. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 3. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 4. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 5. ]

66. FROM KITCHEN RANGES to the implements used in cookery is but a step. With these, every kitchen should be well supplied, otherwise the cookmust not be expected to "perform her office" in a satisfactory manner. Of the culinary utensils of the ancients, our knowledge is very limited;but as the art of living, in every civilized country, is pretty much thesame, the instruments for cooking must, in a great degree, bear astriking resemblance to each other. On referring to classicalantiquities, we find mentioned, among household utensils, leather bags, baskets constructed of twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes, basins, andbellows; bread-moulds, brooms, and brushes; caldrons, colanders, cisterns, and chafing-dishes; cheese-rasps, knives, and ovens of theDutch kind; funnels and frying-pans; handmills, soup-ladles, milk-pails, and oil-jars; presses, scales, and sieves; spits of different sizes, butsome of them large enough to roast an ox; spoons, fire-tongs, trays, trenchers, and drinking-vessels; with others for carrying food, preserving milk, and holding cheese. This enumeration, if it doesnothing else, will, to some extent, indicate the state of the simplerkinds of mechanical arts among the ancients. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 6. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 7. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 8. ]

 In so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the kitchen utensils enumerated above, they bore a great resemblance to our own. This will be seen by the accompanying cuts. Fig. 6 is an ancient stock-pot in bronze, which seems to have been made to hang over the fire, and was found in the buried city of Pompeii. Fig. 7 is one of modern make, and may be obtained either of copper or wrought iron, tinned inside. Fig. 8 is another of antiquity, with a large ladle and colander, with holes attached. It is taken from the column of Trajan. The modern ones can be obtained at all prices, according to size, from 13s. 6d. Up to £1. 1s. 

67. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE UTENSILS, bronze metal seems to havebeen much in favour with the ancients. It was chosen not only for theirdomestic vessels, but it was also much used for their public sculpturesand medals. It is a compound, composed of from six to twelve parts oftin to one hundred of copper. It gives its name to figures and allpieces of sculpture made of it. Brass was another favourite metal, whichis composed of copper and zinc. It is more fusible than copper, and notso apt to tarnish. In a pure state it is not malleable, unless when hot, and after it has been melted twice it will not bear the hammer. Torender it capable of being wrought, it requires 7 lb. Of lead to be putto 1 cwt. Of its own material. 

 The Corinthian brass of antiquity was a mixture of silver, gold, and copper. A fine kind of brass, supposed to be made by the cementation of copper plates with calamine, is, in Germany, hammered out into leaves, and is called Dutch metal in this country. It is employed in the same way as gold leaf. Brass is much used for watchworks, as well as for wire. 

68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colandersof antiquity might generally pass for those of the English manufactureof the present day, in so far as shape is concerned. In proof of this wehave placed together the following similar articles of ancient andmodern pattern, in order that the reader may, at a single view, seewherein any difference that is between them, consists. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 9. Modern. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 10. Ancient. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 11. Modern. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 12. Ancient. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 13. Modern. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 14. Ancient. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 15. Modern. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 16. Modern. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 17. Ancient. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 18. Ancient. ]

 _Figs_. 9 and 10 are flat sauce or _sauté_ pans, the ancient one being fluted in the handle, and having at the end a ram's head. Figs. 11 and 12 are colanders, the handle of the ancient one being adorned, in the original, with carved representations of a cornucopia, a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. Any display of taste in the adornment of such utensils, might seem to be useless; but when we remember how much more natural it is for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly, than of the plain and cheap, it may even become a question in the economy of a kitchen, whether it would not, in the long run, be cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity in their manufacture, than such as are so perfectly plain as to have no attractions whatever beyond their mere suitableness to the purposes for which they are made. Figs. 13 and 14 are saucepans, the ancient one being of bronze, originally copied from the cabinet of M. L'Abbé Charlet, and engraved in the Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 are gridirons, and 16 and 18 dripping-pans. In all these utensils the resemblance between such as were in use 2, 000 years ago, and those in use at the present day, is strikingly manifest. 

69. SOME OF THE ANCIENT UTENSILS represented in the above cuts, arecopied from those found amid the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. TheseRoman cities were, in the first century, buried beneath the lava of aneruption of Vesuvius, and continued to be lost to the world till thebeginning of the last century, when a peasant, in digging for a well, gradually discovered a small temple with some statues. Little notice, however, was taken of this circumstance till 1736, when the king ofNaples, desiring to erect a palace at Portici, caused extensiveexcavations to be made, when the city of Herculaneum was slowly unfoldedto view. Pompeii was discovered about 1750, and being easier clearedfrom the lava in which it had so long been entombed, disclosed itself asit existed immediately before the catastrophe which overwhelmed it, nearly two thousand years ago. It presented, to the modern world, theperfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient Roman city. Theinterior of its habitations, shops, baths, theatres, and temples, wereall disclosed, with many of the implements used by the workmen in theirvarious trades, and the materials on which they were employed, when thedoomed city was covered with the lavian stream. 

70. AMONGST THE MOST ESSENTIAL REQUIREMENTS of the kitchen are scales orweighing-machines for family use. These are found to have existed amongthe ancients, and must, at a very early age, have been both publicly andprivately employed for the regulation of quantities. The modern Englishweights were adjusted by the 27th chapter of Magna Charta, or the greatcharter forced, by the barons, from King John at Runnymede, in Surrey. Therein it is declared that the weights, all over England, shall be thesame, although for different commodities there were two different kinds, Troy and Avoirdupois. The origin of both is taken from a grain of wheatgathered in the middle of an ear. The standard of measures wasoriginally kept at Winchester, and by a law of King Edgar was ordainedto be observed throughout the kingdom. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 19. ]

[Illustration: _Fig_. 20. ]

 Fig. 19 is an ancient pair of common scales, with two basins and a movable weight, which is made in the form of a head, covered with the pileus, because Mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence. It is engraved on a stone in the gallery of Florence. Fig. 20 represents a modern weighing-machine, of great convenience, and generally in use in those establishments where a great deal of cooking is carried on. 

71. ACCOMPANYING THE SCALES, or weighing-machines, there should bespice-boxes, and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japannedtin. The covers of these should fit tightly, in order to exclude theair, and if necessary, be lettered in front, to distinguish them. Thewhite metal of which they are usually composed, loses its colour whenexposed to the air, but undergoes no further change. It enters largelyinto the composition of culinary utensils, many of them being entirelycomposed of tinned sheet-iron; the inside of copper and iron vesselsalso, being usually what is called _tinned_. This art consists ofcovering any metal with a thin coating of tin; and it requires the metalto be covered, to be perfectly clean and free from rust, and also thatthe tin, itself, be purely metallic, and entirely cleared from all ashesor refuse. Copper boilers, saucepans, and other kitchen utensils, aretinned after they are manufactured, by being first made hot and the tinrubbed on with resin. In this process, nothing ought to be used but puregrain-tin. Lead, however, is sometimes mixed with that metal, not onlyto make it lie more easily, but to adulterate it--a pernicious practice, which in every article connected with the cooking and preparation offood, cannot be too severely reprobated. --The following list, suppliedby Messrs. Richard & John Slack, 336, Strand, will show the articlesrequired for the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life, although it does not contain all the things that may be deemed necessaryfor some families, and may contain more than are required for others. AsMessrs. Slack themselves, however, publish a useful illustratedcatalogue, which may be had at their establishment _gratis_, and whichit will be found advantageous to consult by those about to furnish, itsupersedes the necessity of our enlarging that which we give:--

 s. D. 

 1 Tea-kettle 6 6 1 Toasting-fork 1 0 1 Bread-grater 1 0 1 Pair of Brass Candlesticks 3 6 1 Teapot and Tray 6 6 1 Bottle-jack 9 6 6 Spoons 1 6 2 Candlesticks 2 6 1 Candle-box 1 4 6 Knives and Forks 5 3 2 Sets of Skewers 1 0 1 Meat-chopper 1 9 1 Cinder-sifter 1 3 1 Coffee-pot 2 3 1 Colander 1 6 3 Block-tin Saucepans 5 9 5 Iron Saucepans 12 0 1 Ditto and Steamer 6 6 1 Large Boiling-pot 10 0 4 Iron Stewpans 8 9 1 Dripping-pan and Stand 6 6 1 Dustpan 1 0 1 Fish and Egg-slice 1 9 2 Fish-kettles 10 0 1 Flour-box 1 0 3 Flat-irons 3 6 2 Frying-pans 4 0 1 Gridiron 2 0 1 Mustard-pot 1 0 1 Salt-cellar 0 8 1 Pepper-box 0 6 1 Pair of Bellows 2 0 3 Jelly-moulds 8 0 1 Plate-basket 5 6 1 Cheese-toaster 1 10 1 Coal-shovel 2 6 1 Wood Meat-screen 30 0

 The Set £8 11 1

72. AS NOT ONLY HEALTH BUT LIFE may be said to depend on the cleanlinessof culinary utensils, great attention must be paid to their conditiongenerally, but more especially to that of the saucepans, stewpans, andboilers. Inside they should be kept perfectly clean, and where an openfire is used, the outside as clean as possible. With a Leamington range, saucepans, stewpans, &c. , can be kept entirely free from smoke and sooton the outside, which is an immense saving of labour to the cook orscullery-maid. Care should be taken that the lids fit tight and close, so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation. They should be made to keep the steam in and the smoke out, and shouldalways be bright on the upper rim, where they do not immediately come incontact with the fire. Soup-pots and kettles should be washedimmediately After being used, and dried before the fire, and they shouldbe kept in a dry place, in order that they may escape the deterioratinginfluence of rust, and, thereby, be destroyed. Copper utensils shouldnever be used in the kitchen unless tinned, and the utmost care shouldbe taken, not to let the tin be rubbed off. If by chance this shouldoccur, have it replaced before the vessel is again brought into use. Neither soup nor gravy should, at any time, be suffered to remain inthem longer than is absolutely necessary, as any fat or acid that is inthem, may affect the metal, so as to impregnate with poison what isintended to be eaten. Stone and earthenware vessels should be providedfor soups and gravies not intended for immediate use, and, also, plentyof common dishes for the larder, that the table-set may not be used forsuch purposes. It is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour, whenthey are apt to corrode glazed red-ware, and even metals, andfrequently, thereby, to become impregnated with poisonous particles. Thevinegar also in pickles, by its acidity, does the same. Consideration, therefore, should be given to these facts, and great care also takenthat all _sieves, jelly-bags, _ and tapes for collared articles, be wellscalded and kept dry, or they will impart an unpleasant flavour whennext used. To all these directions the cook should pay great attention, nor should they, by any means, be neglected by the _mistress of thehousehold_, who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen giveshealth and happiness to home, whilst economy will immeasurably assist inpreserving them. 

73. WITHOUT FUEL, A KITCHEN might be pronounced to be of little use;therefore, to discover and invent materials for supplying us with themeans of domestic heat and comfort, has exercised the ingenuity of man. Those now known have been divided into five classes; the firstcomprehending the fluid inflammable bodies; the second, peat or turf;the third, charcoal of wood; the fourth, pit-coal charred; and thefifth, wood or pit-coal in a crude state, with the capacity of yieldinga copious and bright flame. The first may be said seldom to be employedfor the purposes of cookery; but _peat_, especially amongst ruralpopulations, has, in all ages, been regarded as an excellent fuel. It isone of the most important productions of an alluvial soil, and belongsto the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom. It may be described ascomposed of wet, spongy black earth, held together by decayedvegetables. Formerly it covered extensive tracts in England, but hasgreatly disappeared before the genius of agricultural improvement. _Charcoal_ is a kind of artificial coal, used principally where a strongand clear fire is desired. It is a black, brittle, insoluble, inodorous, tasteless substance, and, when newly-made, possesses the remarkableproperty of absorbing certain quantities of the different gases. Itsdust, when used as a polishing powder, gives great brilliancy to metals. It consists of wood half-burned, and is manufactured by cutting piecesof timber into nearly the same size, then disposing them in heaps, andcovering them with earth, so as to prevent communication with the air, except when necessary to make them burn. When they have beensufficiently charred, the fire is extinguished by stopping the ventsthrough which the air is admitted. Of _coal_ there are various species;as, pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulphurous, bovey, jet, &c. These have all their specific differences, and are employed for variouspurposes; but are all, more or less, used as fuel. 

 The use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the Romans. In Britain it was discovered about fifty years before the birth of Christ, in Lancashire, not tar from where Manchester now stands; but for ages after its discovery, so long as forests abounded, wood continued to be the fuel used for firing. The first public notice of coal is in the reign of Henry III. , who, in 1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle, permitting the inhabitants to dig for coal. It took some centuries more, however, to bring it into common use, as this did not take place till about the first quarter of the seventeenth century, in the time of Charles I. A few years after the Restoration, we find that about 200, 000 chaldrons were consumed in London. Although several countries possess mines of coal, the quality of their mineral is, in general, greatly inferior to that of Great Britain, where it is found mostly in undulating districts abounding with valleys, and interspersed with plains of considerable extent. It lies usually between the _strata_ of other substances, and rarely in an horizontal position, but with a _dip_ or inclination to one side. Our cut, Fig. 21, represents a section of coal as it is found in the stratum. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 21. ]

74. TO BE ACQUAINTED WITH THE PERIODS when things are in season, is oneof the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the "Art ofCookery. " We have, therefore, compiled the following list, which willserve to show for every month in the year the

TIMES WHEN THINGS ARE IN SEASON. 

JANUARY. 

FISH. --Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings. 

MEAT. --Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison. 

POULTRY. --Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys. 

GAME. --Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES. --Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds andraisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates. 

FEBRUARY. 

FISH. --Barbel, brill, carp, cod may be bought, but is not so good as inJanuary, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting. 

MEAT. --Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. 

POULTRY. --Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pulletswith eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season. 

GAME. --Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES. --Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such asalmonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves. 

MARCH. 

FISH. --Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting. 

MEAT. --Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal. 

POULTRY. --Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pulletswith eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season. 

GAME. --Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock. 

VEGETABLES. --Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach, turnips, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such asalmonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves. 

APRIL. 

FISH. --Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, redand gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but ratherscarce and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, turbot, whitings. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducklings, fowls, leverets, pigeons, pullets, rabbits. 

GAME. --Hares. 

VEGETABLES. --Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips, radishes, small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &e. For tarts, rhubarb, dried fruits, crystallized preserves. 

MAY. 

FISH. --Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets, rabbits. 

VEGETABLES. --Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, creases, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads, sea-kale, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts, gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries. 

JUNE. 

FISH. --Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears. 

VEGETABLES. --Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, pease, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea-kale, spinach, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries. 

JULY. 

FISH. --Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (calledflappers). 

VEGETABLES. --Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetablemarrow, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnutsin high season, and pickled. 

AUGUST. 

FISH. --Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs, herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles, sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks. 

GAME. --Leverets, grouse, blackcock. 

VEGETABLES. --Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, radishes, sea-bale, small salading, sprouts, turnips, various kitchen herbs, vegetable marrows. 

FRUIT. --Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, walnuts. 

SEPTEMBER. 

FISH. --Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait. 

MEAT. --Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys. 

GAME. --Blackcock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants. 

VEGETABLES. --Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salading, sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, morella-cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, walnuts. 

OCTOBER. 

FISH. --Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot, whiting. 

MEAT. --Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks. 

GAME. --Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks, doe venison. 

VEGETABLES. --Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts. 

NOVEMBER. 

FISH. --Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, soles, tench, turbot, whiting. 

MEAT. --Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison. 

POULTRY. --Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild duck. 

GAME. --Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks. 

VEGETABLES. --Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, latecucumbers, onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts, --various herbs. 

FRUIT. --Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts. 

DECEMBER. 

FISH. --Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, oysters, porch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting. 

MEAT. --Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison. 

POULTRY. --Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks. 

GAME. --Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks. 

VEGETABLES. --Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach. 

FRUIT. --Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, walnuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates, &c. , --crystallized preserves. 

75. WHEN FUEL AND FOOD ARE PROCURED, the next consideration is, how thelatter may be best preserved, with a view to its being suitably dressed. More waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment, or of necessarycare in this particular, than by any other cause. In the absence ofproper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in anairy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dryand shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept forsome time; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensatefor the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it isadvisable that annual food should be hung up in the open air till itsfibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept tillit loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated, and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many of its qualitiesconducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace ofputrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree oftenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summermonths, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough ortainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and ifflies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder wellwashed. In very cold weather, meat and vegetables touched by the frost, should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning, and soaked incold water. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone shouldbe taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumpsand edgebones of beef, when bruised, should not be purchased. All thesethings ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager, and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or sufferedto be wasted in the kitchen, which might, by proper management, beturned to a good account. The shank-bones of mutton, so little esteemedin general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked andbrushed before they are added to the boiling. They are also particularlynourishing for sick persons. Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock for pea-soup. --When the whites of eggs are used forjelly, confectionary, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard shouldbe made, that the yolks may be used. All things likely to be wantedshould be in readiness: sugars of different sorts; currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very smallbottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed(72). Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely tobe used in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented bykeeping every article in the place best suited to it. Vegetables keepbest on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; meat, in a cold dryplace; as also salt, sugar, sweet-meats, candles, dried meats, and hams. Rice, and all sorts of seed for puddings, should be closely covered topreserve them from insects; but even this will not prevent them frombeing affected by these destroyers, if they are long and carelesslykept. 

[Illustration]

CHAPTER IV. 

INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY. 

76. AS IN THE FINE ARTS, the progress of mankind from barbarism tocivilization is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rudematerialities of nature, so in the art of cookery is the progressgradual from the earliest and simplest modes, to those of the mostcomplicated and refined. Plain or rudely-carved stones, tumuli, ormounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote theevents of their history, to be succeeded, only in the long course of aseries of ages, by beautifully-proportioned columns, gracefully-sculpturedstatues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and the higher efforts of thepencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to theperfection of his facilities. So is it with the art of cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lives upon roots and the fruits of the earth, until, by degrees, he is driven to seek for new means, by which hiswants may be supplied and enlarged. He then becomes a hunter and afisher. As his species increases, greater necessities come upon him, when he gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the morestationary pursuits of the herdsman. These beget still more settledhabits, when he begins the practice of agriculture, forms ideas of therights of property, and has his own, both defined and secured. Theforest, the stream, and the sea are now no longer his only resources forfood. He sows and he reaps, pastures and breeds cattle, lives on thecultivated produce of his fields, and revels in the luxuries of thedairy; raises flocks for clothing, and assumes, to all intents andpurposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition ofa farmer. This is the fourth stage of social progress, up to which theuseful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves, when trade and commerce begin. Through these various phases, _only tolive_ has been the great object of mankind; but, by-and-by, comforts aremultiplied, and accumulating riches create new wants. The object, then, is not only to _live_, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully, and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery commences; and although thefruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, andthe fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these areso prepared, improved, and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they arethe means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyments. Everything that is edible, and passes under the hands of the cook, ismore or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the influence of thatfunctionary is immense upon the happiness of a household. 

77. In order that the duties of the Cook may be properly performed, andthat he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty, allterms of indecision should be banished from his art. Accordingly, whatis known only to him, will, in these pages, be made known to others. Inthem all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some ofthat, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never bemade use of, but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. Witha desire, also, that all ignorance on this most essential part of theculinary art should disappear, and that a uniform system of weights andmeasures should be adopted, we give an account of the weights whichanswer to certain measures. 

A TABLE-SPOONFUL is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in theprescriptions of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, andgastronomical works. By it is generally meant and understood a measureor bulk equal to that which would be produced by _half an ounce_ ofwater. 

A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is the half of a table-spoonful; that is to say, byit is meant a measure or bulk equal to a _quarter of an ounce_ of water. 

A TEA-SPOONFUL is equal in quantity to a _drachm_ of water. 

A DROP. --This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so calledon account of the liquid being _dropped_ from the mouth of a bottle. Itsquantity, however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquidor the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College ofPhysicians determined the quantity of a drop to be _one grain_, 60 dropsmaking one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm, is called a _minim_. 

[Illustration: _Fig_. 22. ]

 Graduated class measures can be obtained at any chemist's, and they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is divided into 16 oz. , and the oz, into 8 drachms of water; by which, any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be accurately measured out. Home-made measures of this kind can readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given measure, and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies. This mark can easily be made with a file. It will be interesting to many readers to know the basis on which the French found their system of weights and measures, for it certainly possesses the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the basis of the whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the earth. 

78. EXCELLENCE IN THE ART OF COOKERY, as in all other things, is onlyattainable by practice and experience. In proportion, therefore, to theopportunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellencein the art. It is in the large establishments of princes, noblemen, andvery affluent families alone, that the man cook is found in thiscountry. He, also, superintends the kitchens of large hotels, clubs, andpublic institutions, where he, usually, makes out the bills of fare, which are generally submitted to the principal for approval. To be ableto do this, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that he should be ajudge of the season of every dish, as well as know perfectly the stateof every article he undertakes to prepare. He must also be a judge ofevery article he buys; for no skill, however great it may be, willenable him to, make that good which is really bad. On him rests theresponsibility of the cooking generally, whilst a speciality of hisdepartment, is to prepare the rich soups, stews, ragouts, and suchdishes as enter into the more refined and complicated portions of hisart, and such as are not usually understood by ordinary professors. He, therefore, holds a high position in a household, being inferior in rank, as already shown (21), only to the house steward, the valet, and thebutler. 

 In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity, Sicilian cooks were the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman voluptuousness had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one that cooked the supper which pleased Cleopatra, with the present of a city. With the fall of the empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the middle ages, cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the sake of novelty, as well as singularity. 

79. THE DUTIES OF THE COOK, THE KITCHEN AND THE SCULLERY MAIDS, are sointimately associated, that they can hardly be treated of separately. The cook, however, is at the head of the kitchen; and in proportion toher possession of the qualities of cleanliness, neatness, order, regularity, and celerity of action, so will her influence appear in theconduct of those who are under her; as it is upon her that the wholeresponsibility of the business of the kitchen rests, whilst the othersmust lend her, both a ready and a willing assistance, and be especiallytidy in their appearance, and active, in their movements. 

 In the larger establishments of the middle ages, cooks, with the authority of feudal chiefs, gave their orders from a high chair in which they ensconced themselves, and commanded a view of all that was going on throughout their several domains. Each held a long wooden spoon, with which he tasted, without leaving his seat, the various comestibles that were cooking on the stoves, and which he frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated over their diligence and temperance. 

80. IF, AS WE HAVE SAID (3), THE QUALITY OF EARLY RISING be of the firstimportance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant! Let it, therefore, be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in everydomestic, the effect of all things else, so far as _work_ is concerned, may, in a great measure, be neutralized. In a cook, this quality is mostessential; for an hour lost in the morning, will keep her toiling, absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that which might otherwise havebeen achieved with ease. In large establishments, six is a good hour torise in the summer, and seven in the winter. 

81. HER FIRST DUTY, in large establishments and where it is requisite, should be to set her dough for the breakfast rolls, provided this hasnot been done on the previous night, and then to engage herself withthose numerous little preliminary occupations which may notinappropriately be termed laying out her duties for the day. This willbring in the breakfast hour of eight, after which, directions must begiven, and preparations made, for the different dinners of the householdand family. 

82. IN THOSE NUMEROUS HOUSEHOLDS where a cook and housemaid are onlykept, the general custom is, that the cook should have the charge of thedining-room. The hall, the lamps and the doorstep are also committed toher care, and any other work there may be on the outside of the house. In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted herkitchen fire, carefully brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth, proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, and, filling it with fresh water, will put it on the fire to boil. Shewill then go to the breakfast-room, or parlour, and there make allthings ready for the breakfast of the family. Her attention will next bedirected to the hall, which she will sweep and wipe; the kitchen stairs, if there be any, will now be swept; and the hall mats, which have beenremoved and shaken, will be again put in their places. 

 The cleaning of the kitchen, pantry, passages, and kitchen stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect when the heads of the house and members of the family make their appearance. Nothing, it may be depended on, will so please the mistress of an establishment, as to notice that, although she has not been present to see that the work was done, attention to smaller matters has been carefully paid, with a view to giving her satisfaction and increasing her comfort. 

83. BY THE TIME THAT THE COOK has performed the duties mentioned above, and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast-bell willmost likely summon her to the parlour, to "bring in" the breakfast. Itis the cook's department, generally, in the smaller establishments, towait at breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone up-stairsinto the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in theearly part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her morespecial business to speak, call at these hours. 

84. IT IS IN HER PREPARATION OF THE DINNER that the cook begins to feelthe weight and responsibility of her situation, as she must take uponherself all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes, whichher skill and ingenuity have mostly prepared. Whilst these, however, arecooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, ragouts, &c. Stock, or what the French call _consommé_, being the basis of most madedishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with her sweet herbs andspices for seasoning. "A place for everything, and everything in itsplace, " must be her rule, in order that time may not be wasted inlooking for things when they are wanted, and in order that the wholeapparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of awell-adjusted machine;--all must go on simultaneously. The vegetablesand sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and inorder that they may be suitable, the smallest oversight must not be madein their preparation. When the dinner-hour has arrived, it is the dutyof the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without injury, stand, forsome time, covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but such asare of a more important or _recherché_ kind, must be delayed until theorder "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes haste; butthere must be no hurry, --all must work with order. The cook takes chargeof the fish, soups, and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes, whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything mustbe timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should betaken, that, between the first and second courses, no more time isallowed to elapse than is necessary, for fear that the company in thedining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. Whenthe dinner has been served, the most important feature in the daily lifeof the cook is at an end. She must, however, now begin to look to thecontents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies, milk, or meatthat may be there. These are the principal duties of a cook in afirst-rate establishment. 

In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higherdepartment of cooking (_see_ 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with theassistance of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate dutiesof the kitchen-maid. 

When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform thewhole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of thehouse-work also. 

85. WHILST THE COOK IS ENGAGED WITH HER MORNING DUTIES, the kitchen-maidis also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging toit. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at theentrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs whichlead to the kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash andscour all these places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, andcupboards. She has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners, to prepare all fish, poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints andcutlets, and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into thecook's department in a subordinate degree. 

86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to assist the cook; to keep thescullery clean, and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchenutensils. 

 The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high rank, nor is the payment for her services large. But if she be fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties connected with cooking operations, which may be of considerable service in fitting her for a more responsible place. Now, it will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers, that the fascinations connected with the position of the scullery-maid, are not so great as to induce many people to leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery. But we are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the part of a young girl, was so strong to become connected with the kitchen and cookery, that she absolutely left her parents, and engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house. Here she showed herself so active and intelligent, that she very quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid; and from this, so great was her gastronomical genius, she became, in a short space of time, one of the best women-cooks in England. After this, we think, it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, _nascitur, non fit_. 

87. MODERN COOKERY stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomicpropensities of our French neighbours, that many of their terms areadopted and applied by English artists to the same as well as similarpreparations of their own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore, indispensable in a work of this kind. Accordingly, the following will befound sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes:--

EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 

ASPIC. --A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the birdwhich it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used fordecorating or garnishing. 

ASSIETTE (plate). --_Assiettes_ are the small _entrées_ and_hors-d'oeuvres_, the quantity of which does not exceed what a platewill hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c. , ifserved upon a plate, are termed _assiettes_. --ASSIETTE VOLANTE is adish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed uponthe table. Small cheese soufflés and different dishes, which ought to beserved very hot, are frequently made _assielles volantes_. 

AU-BLEU. --Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a _bluish_appearance. 

BAIN-MARIE. --An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, inwhich a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is veryuseful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity orquality. If you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soupreduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well asreduces; but this is prevented by using the _bain-marie_, in which thewater should be very hot, but not boiling. 

BÉCHAMEL. --French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery. 

BLANCH. --To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c. , by plunging theminto boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them intocold water, there to remain until they are cold. 

BLANQUETTE. --A sort of fricassee. 

BOUILLI. --Beef or other meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiledbeef is understood by the term. 

BOUILLIE. --A French dish resembling hasty-pudding. 

BOUILLON. --A thin broth or soup. 

BRAISE. --To stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender, it havingpreviously been blanched. 

BRAISIÈRE. --A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top. 

BRIDER. --To pass a packthread through poultry, game, &c. , to keeptogether their members. 

CARAMEL (burnt sugar). --This is made with a piece of sugar, of the sizeof a nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; upon which a cupful ofstock is gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth, little by little. It may be used with the feather of a quill, to colourmeats, such as the upper part of fricandeaux; and to impart colour tosauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour_compôtes_ and other _entremets_. 

CASSEROLE. --A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into theform of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meator a purée of game. 

COMPOTE. --A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. 

CONSOMMÉ. --Rich stock, or gravy. 

CROQUETTE. --Ball of fried rice or potatoes. 

CROUTONS. --Sippets of bread. 

DAUBIÈRE. --An oval stewpan, in which _daubes_ are cooked; _daubes_ beingmeat or fowl stewed in sauce. 

DÉSOSSER. --To _bone_, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish. This is an operation requiring considerable experience. 

ENTRÉES. --Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course. 

ENTREMETS. --Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course. 

ESCALOPES. --Collops; small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or offish, beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender. 

FEUILLETAGE. --Puff-paste. 

FLAMBER. --To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked. 

FONCER. --To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thinbroad slices of bacon. 

GALETTE. --A broad thin cake. 

GÂTEAU. --A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote apudding and a kind of tart. 

GLACER. --To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick andrich sauce or gravy, called _glaze_. This is laid on with a feather orbrush, and in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry withsugar, which glistens on hardening. 

HORS-D'OEUVRES. --Small dishes, or _assiettes volantes_ of sardines, anchovies, and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests duringthe first course. (_See_ ASSIETTES VOLANTES. )

LIT. --A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers, other articles, or seasoning, being laid between them. 

MAIGRE. --Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat. 

MATELOTE. --A rich fish-stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels, trout, or barbel. It is made with wine. 

MAYONNAISE. --Cold sauce, or salad dressing. 

MENU. --The bill of fare. 

MERINGUE. --A kind of icing, made of whites of eggs and sugar, wellbeaten. 

MIROTON. --Larger slices of meat than collops; such as slices of beef fora vinaigrette, or ragout or stew of onions. 

MOUILLER. --To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the cooking. 

PANER. --To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meats, or anyother articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying-pan. 

PIQUER. --To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. Thisshould always be done according to the vein of the meat, so that incarving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat. 

POÊLÉE. --Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads, fowls, and vegetables, to render them less insipid. This is rather anexpensive preparation. 

PURÉE. --Vegetables, or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, which isafterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency ofvery thick soup. 

RAGOUT. --Stew or hash. 

REMOULADE. --Salad dressing. 

RISSOLES. --Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into various forms, and fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or sweets. 

ROUX. --Brown and white; French thickening. 

SALMI. --Ragout of game previously roasted. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE. --A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar flavourpredominates. 

SAUTER. --To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about. 

TAMIS. --Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strainbroth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, &c. 

TOURTE. --Tart. Fruit pie. 

TROUSSER. --To truss a bird; to put together the body and tie the wingsand thighs, in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each beingtied then with packthread, to keep it in the required form. 

VOL-AU-VENT. --A rich crust of very fine puff-paste, which may be filledwith various delicate ragouts or fricassees, of fish, flesh, or fowl. Fruit may also be inclosed in a _vol-au-vent_. 

[Illustration]

SOUPS. 

CHAPTER V. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS. 

88. LEAN, JUICY BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL, form the basis of all goodsoups; therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which affordthe richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat rendersthem bad, and fat is not so well adapted for making them. The principalart in composing good rich soup, is so to proportion the severalingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another, and that all the articles of which it is composed, shall form anagreeable whole. To accomplish this, care must be taken that the rootsand herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportionedto the quantity of meat and other ingredients. Generally a quart ofwater may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantityfor gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering isincomparably the best. It may be remarked, however, that a really goodsoup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air. Soups will, in general, take from three to six hours doing, and are muchbetter prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold, the fat may be much more easily and completely removed; and when it ispoured off, care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at thebottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through asieve. A tamis is the best strainer, and if the soup is strained whileit is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water. Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about theconsistence of cream. To thicken and give body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour andbutter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed welltogether, are used. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a bitof butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and graduallyincorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. Whenthe soup appears to be _too thin_ or _too weak_, the cover of the boilershould be taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of thewatery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening materials, abovementioned, should be added. When soups and gravies are kept from day today in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put intofresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperateweather, every other day may be sufficient. 

89. VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are required for the purpose of makingsoups and gravies. Of these the principal are, --Scotch barley, pearlbarley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroomketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, shalots, and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour tillthey are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent toheighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form thebasis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The older anddrier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, orburnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, thoughequally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the freshvegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should becorrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, commonthyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, wintersavoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, andits fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving the extract isby pouring wine on the fresh leaves. 

90. FOR THE SEASONING OF SOUPS, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and whitepepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Sevilleorange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than thelemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, mushroomketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various proportions, are, with other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless varietyof excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitutethe principal part of a meal, certainly ought not to be flavoured likesauces, which are only designed to give a relish to some particulardish. 

SOUP, BROTH AND BOUILLON. 

91. IT HAS BEEN ASSERTED, that English cookery is, nationally speaking, far from being the best in the world. More than this, we have beenfrequently told by brilliant foreign writers, half philosophers, half_chefs_, that we are the _worst_ cooks on the face of the earth, andthat the proverb which alludes to the divine origin of food, and theprecisely opposite origin of its preparers, is peculiarly applicable tous islanders. Not, however, to the inhabitants of the whole island; for, it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations, north of theTweed, that the "broth" of Scotland claims, for excellence andwholesomeness, a very close second place to the _bouillon_, or commonsoup of France. "_Three_ hot meals of broth and meat, for about theprice of ONE roasting joint, " our Scottish brothers and sisters get, they say; and we hasten to assent to what we think is now a verywell-ascertained fact. We are glad to note, however, that soups ofvegetables, fish, meat, and game, are now very frequently found in thehomes of the English middle classes, as well as in the mansions of thewealthier and more aristocratic; and we take this to be one evidence, that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system ofcookery. One great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cookedmeats which are brought to our tables, arises, we think, and most willagree with us, from a non-acquaintance with "common, every-day things. "Entertaining this view, we intend to preface the chapters of this workwith a simple scientific _résumé_ of all those causes and circumstanceswhich relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory andchemistry of the various culinary operations. Accordingly, this is theproper place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, anddescribe some of the circumstances which influence it for good or bad. We will, therefore, commence with the circumstance of _age_, and examinehow far this affects the quality of meat. 

92. DURING THE PERIOD BETWEEN THE BIRTH AND MATURITY OF ANIMALS, theirflesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animalis young, the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain, possess alarge proportion of what is called _albumen_. This albumen, which isalso the chief component of the white of eggs, possesses the peculiarityof coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature, like the white ofa boiled egg, into a soft, white fluid, no longer soluble, or capable ofbeing dissolved in water. As animals grow older, this peculiar animalmatter gradually decreases, in proportion to the other constituents ofthe juice of the flesh. Thus, the reason why veal, lamb, and young porkare _white, and without gravy_ when cooked, is, that the large quantityof albumen they contain hardens, or becomes coagulated. On the otherhand, the reason why beef and mutton are _brown, and have gravy_, is, that the proportion of albumen they contain, is small, in comparisonwith their greater quantity of fluid which is soluble, and notcoagulable. 

93. THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH OF AN ANIMAL is considerably influenced bythe nature of the _food on which it has been fed_; for the food suppliesthe material which produces the flesh. If the food be not suitable andgood, the meat cannot be good either; just as the paper on which thesewords are printed, could not be good, if the rags from which it is made, were not of a fine quality. To the experienced in this matter, it iswell known that the flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, such ascorn, pulse, &c. , is firm, well-flavoured, and also economical in thecooking; that the flesh of those fed on succulent and pulpy substances, such as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree;whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, isgreasy, high coloured, and gross in the fat, and if the food has beenused in large quantities, possessed of a rank flavour. 

94. IT IS INDISPENSABLE TO THE GOOD QUALITY OF MEAT, that the animalshould be _perfectly healthy_ at the time of its slaughter. Howeverslight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality ofits flesh, as food, is certain to be produced. In most cases, indeed, asthe flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction, it becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous, on account ofthe absorption of the _virus_ of the unsound meat into the systems ofthose who partake of it. The external indications of good and bad meatwill be described under its own particular head, but we may here premisethat the layer of all wholesome meat, when freshly killed, adheresfirmly to the bone. 

95. ANOTHER CIRCUMSTANCE GREATLY AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF MEAT, is theanimal's treatment _before it is slaughtered_. This influences its valueand wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree. It will be easy tounderstand this, when we reflect on those leading principles by whichthe life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are, thedigestion of its food, and the assimilation of that food into itssubstance. Nature, in effecting this process, first reduces the food inthe stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passesinto the intestines, and is there divided into two principles, eachdistinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid, --the nutritiveportion, --is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the mucousmembrane, or inner coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it isconveyed to the large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart. Here itis mixed with the venous blood (which is black and impure) returningfrom every part of the body, and then it supplies the waste which isoccasioned in the circulating stream by the arterial (or pure) bloodhaving furnished matter for the substance of the animal. The blood ofthe animal having completed its course through all parts, and having hadits waste recruited by the digested food, is now received into theheart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs, there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, andthence distributed, by innumerable ramifications, called capillaries, bestowing to every part of the animal, life and nutriment. The otherprinciple--the innutritive portion--passes from the intestines, and isthus got rid of. It will now be readily understood how flesh is affectedfor bad, if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its bloodhas been increased by over-driving, ill-usage, or other causes ofexcitement, to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for thecapillaries to perform their functions, and causing the blood to becongealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meatwill be dark-coloured, and become rapidly putrid; so that self-interestand humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animalsdestined to serve as food for man. 

THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING. 

96. STOCK BEING THE BASIS of all meat soups, and, also, of all theprincipal sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinaryoperations, to know the most complete and economical method ofextracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the best possible stock orbroth. The theory and philosophy of this process we will, therefore, explain, and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted. 

97. AS ALL MEAT is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the FIBRES areinseparable, constituting almost all that remains of the meat after ithas undergone a long boiling. 

98. FAT is dissolved by boiling; but as it is contained in cells coveredby a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it alwaysadheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of thestock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were notwhole, or which have burst by boiling. 

99. GELATINE is soluble: it is the basis and the nutritious portion ofthe stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, whencold, to become a jelly. 

100. OSMAZOME is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meatwhich gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animalscontains more _osmazome_ than that of young ones. Brown meats containmore than white, and the former make the stock more fragrant. Byroasting meat, the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so, byputting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain abetter flavour. 

101. ALBUMEN is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolvedin cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water notquite at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evidentthat if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, orafter this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remainsin the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome fromdissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. Itought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, asthe parts farthest from the surface always acquire _that degree_ of heatwhich congeals it before entirely dissolving it. 

102. BONES ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. Theyare composed of an earthy substance, --to which they owe theirsolidity, --of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. _Twoounces_ of them contain as much gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but inthem, this is so incased in the earthy substance, that boiling water candissolve only the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, however, youcan dissolve more, because you multiply their surfaces; and by reducingthem to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; but you mustnot grind them dry. We have said (99) that gelatine forms the basis ofstock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste; andto make the stock savoury, it must contain _osmazome_. Of this, bones donot contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made entirelyof them, is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken or pulverizedbones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficientlysavoury. 

103. In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensedhints and directions should be attended to in the economy ofsoup-making:--

I. BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less colour and taste;whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable, unless the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add verylittle to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridgeis also a great improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock isobtained. 

II. IF THE MEAT BE BOILED solely to make stock, it must be cut up intothe smallest possible pieces; but, generally speaking, if it is desiredto have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessaryto put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for twoor three days, during which time the stock will keep well in allweathers. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick aspossible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, andwill be very soon spoiled by the boiling. 

III. NEVER WASH MEAT, as it deprives its surface of all its juices;separate it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that itsshape may be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for eachpound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with thehand, to allow the air, which it contains, to escape, and which oftenraises it to the top of the water. 

IV. PUT THE STOCK-POT ON A GENTLE FIRE, so that it may heat gradually. The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is inthis state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface;bringing with it all its impurities. It is this which makes _the scum_. The rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifyingstock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the morescum there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always take care that thefire is very regular. 

V. REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil, because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved, and the other goto the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain aclear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to addcold water in order to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too largeat first, it will then be necessary to do so. 

VI. WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED, and begins to boil, put in salt andvegetables, which may be two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, a bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can add, according totaste, a piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and atomato. The latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock. If friedonion be added, it ought, according to the advice of a famous French_chef_, to be tied in a little bag: without this precaution, the colourof the stock is liable to be clouded. 

VII. BY THIS TIME we will now suppose that you have chopped the boneswhich were separated from the meat, and those which were left from theroast meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, thatthe more these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best wayto break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding, from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. It isa great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat, which, in too manyEnglish families, we fear, are entirely wasted; for it is certain, aspreviously stated (No. 102), that two ounces of bone contain as muchgelatine (which is the nutritive portion of stock) as one pound of meat. In their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put them in thestock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, whichcan be used for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you havereceived from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightlyover a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be verycareful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked orburnt. 

VIII. ADD NOW THE VEGETABLES, which, to a certain extent, will stop theboiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again, then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering tillit is served, preserving, as before said, your fire always the same. Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent evaporation; do not fill it up, even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; inwhich case a little boiling water may be added, but only enough to coverit. After six hours' slow and gentle simmering, the stock is done; andit should not be continued on the fire, longer than is necessary, or itwill tend to insipidity. 

_Note_. --It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, thatexcellence in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of theculinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons, and thestock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be obtained. Thestock will never be clear; and when it is obliged to be clarified, it isdeteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the proper management ofthe stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved, inasmuch as onestock, in a small dinner, serves for all purposes. Above all things, thegreatest economy, consistent with excellence, should be practised, andthe price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly ascertained. The _theory_ of this part of Household Management may appear trifling;but its practice is extensive, and therefore it requires the bestattention. 

[Illustration]

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER VI. 

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

[_It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that anentirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued inexplaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the younghousekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of"getting ready" the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the orderin which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on theirtable all the INGREDIENTS necessary; then the modus operandi, or MODE ofpreparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of therecipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging arepast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gainedof the TIME the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods atwhich it is SEASONABLE, as also of its_ AVERAGE COST. 

_The addition of the natural history, and the description of the variousproperties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will beserviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view. _

_Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that bythe employment of the_ BEST, MEDIUM, _or_ COMMON STOCK, _the quality ofthe Soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened. _]

STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS. 

RICH STRONG STOCK. 

104. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of shin of beef, 4 lbs. Of knuckle of veal, 3/4 lb. Of good lean ham; any poultry trimmings; 3 small onions, 3 smallcarrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest theyferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; 1tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley; 1-1/2 oz. Ofsalt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quartsof water. 

_Mode_. --Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broadslices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; cut up the beef andveal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham; set it onthe stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat isequally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasionally add a littlecold water, to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear; then putin all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do notlet it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that itscolour may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, ortammy, and it will be fit for use. 

_Time_. --5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

MEDIUM STOCK. 

105. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. Of knuckle of veal, or 2 lbs. Of each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 alb. Of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 large onions, each stuckwith 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. Of salt, 1/2 a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1small bunch of savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inchessquare; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in 1/2 a pintof water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. Whenthe bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As wehave said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle ofgrease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve. 

This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and will befound quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. 

_Time_. --5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. Per quart. 

ECONOMICAL STOCK. 

106. INGREDIENTS. --The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled, say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-bones, &c. , roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe. 

_Mode_. --Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking careto skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use. 

_Time_. --6 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. Per quart. 

WHITE STOCK. 

(_To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups_. )

107. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 whitepeppercorns, 1 oz. Of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. Butter, 4 quarts ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings ofpoultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with thebutter. Moisten with 1/2 a pint of water, and simmer till the gravybegins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of theingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining itcarefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready for use. 

_Time_. --5-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. Per quart. 

_Note_. --When stronger stock is desired, double the quantity of veal, orput in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled, is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups. 

BROWNING FOR STOCK. 

108. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of powdered sugar, and 1/2 a pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it beginsto melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black, then add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a fewdrops when required. 

_Note_. --In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose ofbrowning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to bediscouraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to thestock, and, consequently, all soups made from it. 

TO CLARIFY STOCK. 

109. INGREDIENTS. --The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts ofstock. 

_Mode_. --Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear, and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefullyseparated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water, andadd gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place thesoup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the eggs withit till nearly boiling again; then draw it from the fire, and let itsettle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass through afine cloth, and the soup should be clear. 

_Note_. --The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light strawcolour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat; and that allwhite or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than willenable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All _purées_should be somewhat thicker. 

ALMOND SOUP. 

110. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a scrag of mutton, 1oz. Of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than 2 quarts ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water thatwill cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat verytender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with thespecified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Letit boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds, blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard;mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest thelatter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keepadding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughlymixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectlysmooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently, and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 2s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM. ]

 THE ALMOND-TREE. --This tree is indigenous to the northern parts of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe, especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are two kinds of almonds, the _sweet_ and the _bitter, _ they are considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from Valentia and Italy. _Bitter_ almonds come principally from Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very indigestible. The _bitter_ contain, too, principles which produce two violent poisons, --prussic acid and a kind of volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their cake as a cosmetic. 

APPLE SOUP. 

111. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful ofwhite pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of mediumstock. 

_Mode_. --Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put theminto the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through astrainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ from September to December. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM. ]

 THE APPLE. --This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation. Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are, no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as _the apple country_; and there are still existing in Herefordshire some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to number upwards of 1, 500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone, being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high, as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is esteemed as slightly laxative. 

ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP. 

(_A White Soup_. )

112. INGREDIENTS. --3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. Of butter, 4 lbs. Of artichokes, 1 pint ofboiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock. 

_Mode_. --Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thinslices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of anhour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and aftercutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to theother ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning, and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer. Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes, taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream. Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 2d. 

_Seasonable_ from June to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

ASPARAGUS SOUP. 

I. 

113. INGREDIENTS. --5 lbs. Of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint ofpale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, alittle mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small, the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into astewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on aslow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in thewater and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stewgently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, andadd the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, andsweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put inthe asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish. 

_Time_. --Altogether 3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from May to August. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

II. 

114. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint ofasparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour thesoup with spinach juice. 

_Mode_. --Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, andthen stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, withthe water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream, and serve. 

_Time_. --Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS. ]

 ASPARAGUS. --The ancients called all the sprouts of young vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus, cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It is often vulgarly called, in London, _sparrowgrass_; and, in it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and easily digested, but is not very nutritious. 

BAKED SOUP. 

115. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of any kind of meat, any trimmings or oddpieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. Of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepperand salt to taste, 4 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice andpeas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up withthe water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons. 

_Note_. --This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will beconvenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed thanboiling. 

BARLEY SOUP. 

116. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. Of pearl barley, alarge bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quartsof water. 

_Mode_. --Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter. 

[Illustration: BARLEY. ]

 BARLEY. --This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain, the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them, as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten 6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak. 

BREAD SOUP. 

(_Economical_. )

117. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of bread crusts, 2 oz. Butter, 1 quart ofcommon stock. 

_Mode_. --Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat thewhole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock arewell mixed. Season with a little salt. 

_Time_. --Half an hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Note_. --This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extremeeconomy is an object. 

[Illustration: QUERN, or GRINDING-MILL. ]

 BREAD. --The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city" about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of _polenta_, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is still used. We give a cut of the _quern_ grinding-mill, which, towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country, and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to the Hebrides:"--"It consists of two stones about a foot and half in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle. The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the upper, is ground in its passage. " Such a primitive piece of machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from this country. --In other parts of this work, we shall have opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has emphatically been called the "staff of life. " The necessity, therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first importance. 

CABBAGE SOUP. 

118. INGREDIENTS. --1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slicesof lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpanwith the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten withskimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage istender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skimoff every particle of fat. Season and serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING. ]

 THE CABBAGE. --It is remarkable, that although there is no country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII. Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII. Neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders. " The original of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant _sea-colewort_, which is to be found _wasting_ whatever sweetness it may have on the desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England. In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet, in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600 years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and, no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a valuable adjunct to animal food. 

SOUP A LA CANTATRICE. 

(_An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice_. )

119. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2quarts of medium stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be graduallyadded to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when itshould be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them theboiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Donot let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle. 

_Time_. --40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago andeggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat. In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have beenpartaken of by the principal singers of the day, including thecelebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have alwaysavowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing. 

CARROT SOUP. 

I. 

120. INGREDIENTS. --4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beefhas been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into astewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strainthe soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hairsieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should beof the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part ofthe carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1-1/2d. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

II. 

121. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of carrots, 3 oz. Of butter, seasoning totaste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup. 

_Mode_. --Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipethem dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butterinto a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. Of the slicedcarrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add tothem the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender, --say for nearly anhour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt andcayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, andserve as hot as possible. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 1d. 

[Illustration: TAZZA AND CARROT LEAVES. ]

 THE CARROT. --There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its fibrous matter. Of 1, 000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of starch. --The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness. 

CELERY SOUP. 

122. INGREDIENTS. --9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg totaste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2quarts of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water, seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficientlytender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for halfan hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serveimmediately. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting thecream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half adrachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, ifput in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essenceof celery will answer the same purpose. 

 CELERY. --This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the seacoast. In this state it is called _smallaqe_, and, to some extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being suffered to appear above the ground. 

CHANTILLY SOUP. 

123. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch ofparsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions;then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let itboil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve veryhot. 

_Time_. --Half an hour. _Average_ cost, 1s. 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added tothem, make a very good soup in haste. 

 Parsley. --Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to Britain is not known. There are several varieties, --the _plain_-leaved and the _curled_-leaved, _celery_-parsley, _Hamburg_ parsley, and _purslane_. The curled is the best, and, from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups; and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery, and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a native of South America, and is not now much in use. 

CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP. 

124. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream;seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into alarge pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingersto remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immersethem in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with goodstock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, oruntil they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rubthem through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. Thestock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, whenits sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it;and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. Of chestnuts should be given to each quartof soup. 

_Time_. --rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from October to February. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

[Illustration: CHESTNUT. ]

 THE CHESTNUT. --This fruit is said, by some, to have originally come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it was much used as a food, and is still common in France and Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous. In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and, therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the _horse chestnut_ is very different, although its fruit very much resembles that of the other. Its "nuts, " though eaten by horses and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food. 

COCOA-NUT SOUP. 

125. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. Of rice flour, 1/2 ateaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of apint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down smallon a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz. Of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which shouldthen be strained closely from it, and thickened for table. 

_Time_. --2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ in Autumn. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

[Illustration: COCOA-NUT PALM. ]

[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM. ]

 THE COCOA-NUT. --This is the fruit of one of the palms, than which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them; and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows, or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun, baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on. Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons, and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped, the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general, comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is one of the least productive of the palm tribe. 

SOUP A LA CRECY. 

126. INGREDIENTS. --4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, andchervil; 2 oz. Butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let themsimmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stewgently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock, let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When wellsoaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour thesoup over this, and serve. 

_Time_. --1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: THE LENTIL. ]

 THE LENTIL. --This belongs to the legumious or _pulse_ kind of vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe, but in England is not used as human food, although considered the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi, as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils. " Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account, it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name from _lentus_ 'slow, ' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness and moderation of temper. 

CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe). 

127. INGREDIENTS. --1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of awalnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepperto taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stockNo. 105. 

_Mode_. --Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut itin thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw thewater from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter. When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock onthem. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes. Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at themoment of serving. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from June to September. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

 THE CUCUMBER. --The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it, whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England, although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses, " it seems no longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat, however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable. 

EGG SOUP. 

128. INGREDIENTS. --A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades offinely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, andput in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time. Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in thetureen, or fried sippets of bread. 

_Time_. 1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 11d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish). 

I. 

129. INGREDIENTS. --1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 greenonions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint ofasparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. Butter, the yolks of 4eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts ofstock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hourwith a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, andsimmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix withthe cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take thesoup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. To it, and keep stirring it well. Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs willcurdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar. 

_Time_. --24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from May to August. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 CHERVIL. --Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves. 

II. 

130. INGREDIENTS. --5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sizedpotatoes, 3 oz. Butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quartsof stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with thebutter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill upthe stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done, which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add thecream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_, 1s. 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to May. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup can be made with water instead of stock. 

SOUP A LA JULIENNE. 

[Illustration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE. ]

131. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint ofonions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel andchervil, if liked, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and beparticular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst theothers will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil intolarger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boilingto them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, andstew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soupover thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, andserve. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. Can beadded. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them inbutter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in thestock. 

 SORREL. --This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved. 

KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe). 

132. INGREDIENTS. --Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toastedoatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oilfloats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Putthe oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly ateacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, butform knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

LEEK SOUP. 

I. 

133. INGREDIENTS. --A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cutsmall, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken. 

_Mode_. --Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin verynicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boilingwater; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the souptolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the wholeis blended and well done, and serve. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

II. 

COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE. 

134. INGREDIENTS. --A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, fromwhich the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed asfor boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling waterfor a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cutthem into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In halfan hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hourslonger. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. Inserving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in atureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick ofleeks (a _purée_ of leeks the French would call it). 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per quart; or, with stock No. 106, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely calledleek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largelyconsumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859. 

[Illustration: LEEKS. ]

 THE LEEK. --As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert. It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion, garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food, are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid, practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup. " (_See_ ST. DAVID. ) Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled. 

MACARONI SOUP. 

135. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of awalnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinchof salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut itinto thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stewgently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: MACARONI. ]

 MACARONI. --This is the favourite food of Italy, where, especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the staff of life. "The crowd of London, " says Mr. Forsyth, "is a double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down, and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers' stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_. " This article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel, pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom. Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time, drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups and making puddings. 

SOUP MAIGRE (i. E. Without Meat). 

136. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces ofbread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stewgently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, andparsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put inthe water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and, at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: LETTUCE. ]

 THE LETTUCE. --This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian, had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical name is _Lactuca_, so called from the milky juice it exudes when its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food. 

MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children). 

137. INGREDIENTS. --2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, ormore if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the breadin a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot overa stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to themilk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle. Pour it upon the bread, and serve. 

_Time_. --3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 8d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 children. 

ONION SOUP. 

138. INGREDIENTS. --6 large onions, 2 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper totaste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir themoccasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock tothem, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

CHEAP ONION SOUP. 

139. INGREDIENTS. --8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. Of butter, atablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful ofpowdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter, and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add theonions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken withbutter and flour, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: ONION. ]

 THE ONION. --Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2, 000 years before the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa. When it was first introduced to England, has not been ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this odour. 

PAN KAIL. 

140. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. Of butteror dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quartsof water. 

_Mode_. --Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, putin the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, addingany good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then furtherthicken with bread or pounded biscuit. 

_Time_--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 THE SAVOY. --This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage, sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather without injury, whilst the _dwarf_ kind are improved and rendered more tender by frost. 

PARSNIP SOUP. 

141. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. Of butter, salt andcayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106. 

_Mode_. --Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which hasbeen previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then addnearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass allthrough a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock. Season, boil, and serve immediately. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from October to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

 THE PARSNIP. --This is a biennial plant, with a root like a carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state, may be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also to be found, generally distributed over Europe; and, in Catholic countries, is mostly used with salt fish, in Lent. In Scotland it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and potatoes; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is found to yield, in conjunction with the hop, a pleasant beverage; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is 99 parts in 1, 000; 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar. 

PEA SOUP (GREEN). 

142. INGREDIENTS. --3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 or threethin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of commonstock. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and lettuces, to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the remainder ofthe stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil for anotherhour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soupthrough a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it. Have ready apint of _young_ peas boiled; add them to the soup, put in the sugar, give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, alittle sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead ofstock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; but use adouble quantity of vegetables. 

WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW). 

143. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. Of shin of beef, trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quartsof soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. 

_Mode_. --Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float offsuch as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough topulp; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for 2 hours, stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well, season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. _Seasonable_ all theyear round, but more suitable for cold weather. _Sufficient_ for 12persons. 

[Illustration: PEA. ]

 THE PEA. --It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in Greece, and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the common garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belonging to it. The gray, or field pea, called _bisallie_ by the French, is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds, and is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit. From the tendency of all other varieties "to run away" and become different to what they originally were, it is very difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea was well known to the Romans, and, probably, was introduced to Britain at an early period; for we find peas mentioned by Lydgate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London. They seem, however, for a considerable time, to have fallen out of use; for, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us they were brought from Holland, and were accounted "fit dainties for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear. " There are some varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans. They are called _sugar_ peas, and the best variety is the large crooked sugar, which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially for sea-stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an article of food. 

PEA SOUP (inexpensive). 

144. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of onions, 1/4 lb. Of carrots, 2 oz. Ofcelery, 3/4 lb. Of split peas, a little mint, shred fine; 1tablespoonful of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quartsof water, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled. 

_Mode_. --Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter ordripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces; pour the water onthem, and when boiling add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly 3 hours, or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar, seasoning, andmint; boil for 1/4 of an hour, and serve. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. 

POTATO SOUP. 

I. 

145. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of mealy potatoes, boiled or steamed very dry, pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly, that no lumpsremain, and gradually put them to the boiling stock; pass it through asieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well, and serve with friedbread. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

II. 

146. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of shin of beef, 1 lb. Of potatoes, 1 onion, 1/2 a pint of peas, 2 oz. Of rice, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt totaste, 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion, andput them in a stewpan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew gently tillthe gravy is drawn from the meat; strain it off, take out the beef, andpulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back inthe soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this is tender. Season, and serve with fried bread cut into it. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. 

III. 

(_Very Economical_. )

147. INGREDIENTS. --4 middle-sized potatoes well pared, a thick slice ofbread, 6 leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the whiteextends upwards from the roots, a teacupful of rice, a teaspoonful ofsalt, and half that of pepper, and 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --The water must be completely boiling before anything is putinto it; then add the whole of the ingredients at once, with theexception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover, and let thesecome to a brisk boil; put in the others, and let the whole boil slowlyfor an hour, or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done, and theirseveral juices extracted and mixed. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. Per quart. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

[Illustration: POTATOES. ]

 THE POTATO. --Humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of South America; but it has been found growing wild both in Chili and Buenos Ayres. It was first brought to Spain from the neighbourhood of Quito, in the early part of the sixteenth century, first to England from Virginia, in 1586, and first planted by Sir Walter Raleigh, on his estate of Youghal, near Cork, in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in Lancashire, in England, and was, at first, recommended to be eaten as a delicate dish, and not as common food. This was in 1587. _Nutritious Properties_. --Of a thousand parts of the potato, Sir H. Davy found about a fourth nutritive; say, 200 mucilage or starch, 20 sugar, and 30 gluten. 

PRINCE OF WALES'S SOUP. 

148. INGREDIENTS. --12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strongveal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very brightstock, No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as roundas possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be verybright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning. Havelittle pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a shilling; moistenthem with stock; put them into a tureen and pour the soup over withoutshaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil theappearance of the soup, and make it look thick. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Seasonable_ in the winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 THE PRINCE Of WALES. --This soup was invented by a philanthropic friend of the Editress, to be distributed among the poor of a considerable village, when the Prince of Wales attained his majority, on the 9th November, 1859. Accompanying this fact, the following notice, which appears in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF UNIVERSAL INFORMATION" may appropriately be introduced, premising that British princes attain their majority in their 18th year, whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that period till their 21st. --"ALBERT EDWARD, Prince of Wales, and heir to the British throne, merits a place in this work on account of the high responsibilities which he is, in all probability, destined to fulfil as sovereign of the British empire. On the 10th of November, 1858, he was gazetted as having been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army. Speaking of this circumstance, the _Times_ said, --'The significance of this event is, that it marks the period when the heir to the British throne is about to take rank among men, and to enter formally upon a career, which every loyal subject of the queen will pray may be a long and a happy one, for his own sake and for the sake of the vast empire which, in the course of nature, he will one day be called to govern. The best wish that we can offer for the young prince is, that in his own path he may ever keep before him the bright example of his royal mother, and show himself worthy of her name. ' There are few in these realms who will not give a fervent response to these sentiments. B. November 9th, 1841. "

POTAGE PRINTANIER, OR SPRING SOUP. 

149. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 a pint of green peas, if in season, a littlechervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley, 2oz. Of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Put in a very clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces, onions, parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer tilltender. Season with salt and pepper; when done, strain off thevegetables, and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to thestock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it atoss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with thevegetables which you strained off, to the soup. 

_Time_. --3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from May to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

RICE SOUP. 

I. 

150. INGREDIENTS. --4 oz. Of Patna rice, salt, cayenne, and mace, 2quarts of white stock. 

_Mode_. --Throw the rice into boiling water, and let it remain 5 minutes;then pour it into a sieve, and allow it to drain well. Now add it to thestock boiling, and allow it to stew till it is quite tender; season totaste. Serve quickly. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: EARS OF RICE. ]

 RICE. --This is a plant of Indian origin, and has formed the principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most remote antiquity. Both Pliny and Dioscorides class it with the cereals, though Galen places it among the vegetables. Be this as it may, however, it was imported to Greece, from India, about 286 years before Christ, and by the ancients it was esteemed both nutritious and fattening. There are three kinds of rice, --the Hill rice, the Patna, and the Carolina, of the United States. Of these, only the two latter are imported to this country, and the Carolina is considered the best, as it is the dearest. The nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior to those of wheat; but it is both a light and a wholesome food. In combination with other foods, its nutritive qualities are greatly increased; but from its having little stimulating power, it is apt, when taken in large quantities alone, to lie long on the stomach. 

II. 

151. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 a pint ofcream, rather more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a tammy;put the stock in the stewpan, add all the rice, and simmer gently for 5minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the cream (previouslyboiled), and strain through a hair sieve; take the soup off the fire, add the eggs and cream, stirring frequently. Heat it gradually, stirringall the time; but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

SAGO SOUP. 

152. INGREDIENTS. --5 oz. Of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to theboiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and formsa sort of jelly. 

_Time_. --Nearly an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per quart. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Note_. --The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previouslyboiled, and added at the moment of serving, much improves this soup. 

[Illustration: SAGO PALM. ]

 SAGO. --The farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of the SAGO tree (the _Sagus farinifera_ of Linnaeus), which grows spontaneously in the East Indies and in the archipelago of the Indian Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous diet of the inhabitants. In order to procure it, the tree is felled and sawn in pieces. The pith is then taken out, and put in receptacles of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour separates from the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where it is suffered to remain until the water is poured off, when it is taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry. To give it the round granular form in which we find it come to this country, it is passed through a colander, then rubbed into little balls, and dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a growth of seven years, when a single trunk will yield 600 lbs. Weight; and, as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees, a large return of flour is the result. The best quality has a slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolves to a jelly, in hot water. As a restorative diet, it is much used. 

SEMOLINA SOUP. 

153. INGREDIENTS. --5 oz. Of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No. 105, or 106. 

_Mode_. --Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, toprevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per quart, or 4d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 SEMOLINA. --This is the heart of the _grano duro_ wheat of Italy, which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli. It has a coarse appearance, and may be purchased at the Italian warehouses. It is also called _soojee;_ and _semoletta_ is another name for a finer sort. 

SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe). 

154. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. Of fresh butter, salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts ofbouillon, No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream, butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to theconsistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped, and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boilingbouillon over them. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an Englishgentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859, and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel's troops, on the daybefore the battle, to partake of a portion of their _potage_. Hewillingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners hadmade a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. Insending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however, Anglicised, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it. 

SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe). 

155. INGREDIENTS. --As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill avegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slipthem into the soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of thespinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from October to June. 

[Illustration: SPINACH. ]

 SPINACH. --This plant was unknown by the ancients, although it was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the middle of the 14th century. Some say, that it was originally brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the other. There are three varieties in use; the round-leaved, the triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, known by its large leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup; but the leaves are sometimes boiled alone, mashed, and eaten as greens. 

TAPIOCA SOUP. 

156. INGREDIENTS. --5 oz. Of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106. 

_Mode_. --Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to aboil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost. 1s. Or 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 TAPIOCA. --This excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the pith of the cassava-tree, and is made in the East Indies, and also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as a starch from the tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron, and afterwards broken into grains, in which form it is imported into this country. Its nutritive properties are large, and as a food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is in great estimation. "No amylaceous substance, " says Dr. Christison, "is so much relished by infants about the time of weaning; and in them it is less apt to become sour during digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not excepted. "

TURNIP SOUP. 

157. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste. 

_Mode_. --Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil; wash, drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin; put them in thebutter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour. Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Rub itthrough a tammy, put it back into the stewpan, but do not let it boil. Serve very hot. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --By adding a little cream, this soup will be much improved. 

[Illustration: TURNIP. ]

 THE TURNIP. --Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the Romans, and in Germany and the Low Countries they have from time immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their cultivated state, they are generally supposed to have been introduced to England from Hanover, in the time of George I. ; but this has been doubted, as George II. Caused a description of the Norfolk system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects, for their enlightenment in the art of turnip culture. As a culinary vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or mixed with soups und stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is small, being only 42 parts in 1, 000. 

VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP. 

158. INGREDIENTS. --4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very small, 1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of whitestock, No. 107. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock boiling. When done almost to a mash, press them through a sieve, and at themoment of serving, add the boiling cream and seasoning. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in summer. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW. ]

 THE VEGETABLE MARROW. --This is a variety of the gourd family, brought from Persia by an East-India ship, and only recently introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when fried with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways, either by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies. 

VEGETABLE SOUP. 

I. 

159. INGREDIENTS. --7 oz. Of carrot, 10 oz. Of parsnip, 10 oz. Of potato, cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. Of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour, ateaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Boil the vegetables in the water 2-1/2 hours; stir them often, and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be 2quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour, mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; stir in thesoup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in thetureen; pour on, stir well, and serve. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

II. 

160. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips; 1/4 lb. Of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot ofherbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow 3/4 lb. Of vegetables to2 quarts of stock, No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain themwell, and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar. Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let thembrown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When done, pour thestock or boiling water on them; add the bread, celery, herbs, andseasoning; stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain it off. When ready toserve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and flavour witha spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or a little ketchup. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

III. 

(_Good and Cheap, made without Meat_. )

161. INGREDIENTS. --6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots, 2 onions; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice ofbread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, 1/4 saltspoonful of ground blackpepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces; toastthe bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the water andseasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is reduced to a pulp, and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup, which it shouldresemble in consistence; but it should be a dark brown colour. Warm itup again when required; put in the Harvey's sauce, and, if necessary, add to the flavouring. 

_Time_. --3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 1d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 16 persons. 

_Note_. --This recipe was forwarded to the Editress by a lady in thecounty of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended. 

VERMICELLI SOUP. 

I. 

162. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of bacon, stuck with cloves; 1/2 oz. Ofbutter, worked up in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling; 2 oz. Ofvermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107. 

_Mode_. --Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan, andstew for 3/4 of an hour. Take the vermicelli, add it to a little of thestock, and set it on the fire, till it is quite tender. When the soup isready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the bacon on a dish. Skimthe soup as clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, over thefowl. Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl and bacon, 10d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

[Illustration: VERMICELLI. ]

 VERMICELLI. --This is a preparation of Italian origin, and is made in the same way as macaroni, only the yolks of eggs, sugar, saffron, and cheese, are added to the paste. 

II. 

163. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock, No. 169. 

_Mode_. --Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently for1/2 an hour, and stir frequently. 

_Time_--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

WHITE SOUP. 

164. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. Of cold veal orpoultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1blade of mace, pounded, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiledeggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107. 

_Mode_. --Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful ofwater, and add to them the meat, which should be previously pounded withthe bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel, very finelychopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the whole, and simmerfor an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup, bring it to aboil, and serve immediately. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --A more economical white soup may be made by using common vealstock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should beserved with it. 

_Average cost_, 5d. Per quart. 

USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES. 

165. INGREDIENTS. --An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, whichmay be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs. ), a few bones, any pot-liquor thelarder may furnish, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs, 1/2 lb. Of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very well); 1/2lb. Of carrots, 1/2 lb. Of turnips, 1/2 lb. Of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 apint of beer, 4 lbs. Of common rice, or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. Of salt, 1oz. Of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in acopper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 1/2 an hour. Cut upthe vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings, and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which simmergently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water. 

_Time_. --6-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Per quart. 

_Note_. --The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by theEditress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of thissoup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the villagenear which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great; but shehas reason to believe that the soup was very much liked, and gave to themembers of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place ofthe cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cottagers, their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the "cooking. "art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish, every day. 

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS. 

BRILLA SOUP. 

166. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a largesprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4quarts water. 

_Mode_. --Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nicesquare pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let itcool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat in the coldliquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop the onions, addthem with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is tender. If not brown enough, colour it with browning. 

_Time_. --6 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

 THYME. --This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of it in culinary preparations, as well as in aromatic liqueurs. There are two species of it growing wild in Britain, but the garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more delicate in its perfume than the others. Its young leaves give an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces; they are also used in stuffings. 

CALF'S-HEAD SOUP. 

167. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a verysmall bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper totaste, 6 oz. Of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts ofwhite stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water. 

_Mode_. --Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean itthoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, orpot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When wellskimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim andstrain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soupwith it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces abouttwo inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat arequite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, andserve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover itup, or it will discolour. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. Per quart, with stock No. 107. 

_Seasonable_ from May to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavouredwith a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bonesfrom the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, andit will make a very good common stock. 

GIBLET SOUP. 

168. INGREDIENTS. --3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. Of shin ofbeef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint ofcream, 1 oz. Of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quartsof water. 

_Mode_. --Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put themin a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions, herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till thegiblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done, take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve, add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boilit up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavouredwith port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add saltto taste. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

GRAVY SOUP. 

169. INGREDIENTS. --6 lbs. Of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5lbs. , a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham;1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head ofcelery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive, seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts ofboiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce(_see_ SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy. 

_Mode_. --Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not letthem burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scumrises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients, and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirringit any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim offall the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold, you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, whichserves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c. 

_Time_. --7 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 14 persons. 

 ENDIVE. --This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London, --in the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;--it is greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews. 

HARE SOUP. 

I. 

170. INGREDIENTS. --A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. Of lean gravy-beef, aslice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. Ofwhole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, thecrumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood aspossible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all theingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made theday before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts ofthe hare in the soup, and serve. 

OR, II. 

Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in thesoup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it, with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through asieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to tableimmediately. 

_Time_. -8 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

[Illustration: HARE. ]

 THE COMMON HARE. --This little animal is found throughout Europe, and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear. As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground, its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now, though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt, their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip; whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp. 

HESSIAN SOUP. 

171. INGREDIENTS. --Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savouryherbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into apan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and addthe vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previouslysoaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulpthrough a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; giveone boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 16 persons. 

_Note_. --An excellent hash or _ragoût_ can be made by cutting up thenicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a littleof the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls ofketchup. 

MOCK TURTLE. 

I. 

172. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of leanham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (whenobtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle ofMadeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste, the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of poundedsugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104. 

_Mode_. --Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the headup in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from thebones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water. Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let itboil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set iton one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cutsmall, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearlya pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge inas much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder ofthe stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub itthrough a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne, and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon;and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put inthe force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. Per quart, or 2s. 6d. Without wine or force-meat balls. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor itwas first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured withvegetables, etc. 

II. 

(_More Economical_. )

173. INGREDIENTS. --A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs. , 2 cow-heels, 2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades ofmace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meatballs, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls andlemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open ittill cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and straincarefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-halfsquares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into thesoup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, orHarvey's sauce. 

_Time_. --6 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

 THE CALF--The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for fattening calves better than any others in England, where they are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be done in the immediate neighbourhood of London. 

 MARJORAM. --There are several species of this plant; but that which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried, they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for soups, stuffings, &c. 

 BASIL. --This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads. 

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 

174. INGREDIENTS. --2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 cloveof garlic, 1 oz. Of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, ormango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock. 

_Mode_. -=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpanwith the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, andslightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, andsimmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when themeat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to thesoup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of thestock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, andserve boiled rice with it. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per quart, with stock No. 105. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head. Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulpingchopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoningwith curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder, and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good. 

[Illustration: CORIANDER. ]

 CORIANDER. --This plant, which largely enters into the composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for the purposes of distillation. 

A GOOD MUTTON SOUP. 

175. INGREDIENTS. --A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs. , 3 carrots, 3turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; saltand pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and letthem remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day putthe whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When itcommences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side tosimmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain thesoup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with atablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a littlesherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve. 

_Time_. --15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1s. 3d. Perquart. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 THE SHEEP. --This animal formed the principal riches of the patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia; but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life. Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow, yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten. Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep, when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool. 

 "Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft By needy man, that all-depending lord, How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies! What softness in his melancholy face, What dumb complaining innocence appears!"

OX-CHEEK SOUP. 

176. INGREDIENTS. --An ox-cheek, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 or 4 slices of leanham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, ateaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning, the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter;break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cutthe vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set thewhole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, andsimmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy partof the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken withflour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery istender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat intosmall square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of aFrench roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup. 

_Time_. --3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. 

 THE OX. --Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known. 

OX-TAIL SOUP. 

177. INGREDIENTS. --2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. Of butter, 2carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch ofsavoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, atablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of portwine, 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, andput them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices, and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water, and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up thestewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, andsimmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take themout, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with theketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, andserve. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

PARTRIDGE SOUP. 

178. INGREDIENTS. --2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fancifulshapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper totaste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106. 

_Mode_. --Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butterand ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast, and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, andadd the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fatoff as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give itone boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar andseasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; whenquite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. Or 1s. 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of aFrench roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewedcelery cut in slices, and put in the tureen. 

 THE PARTRIDGE. --This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however, ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine. 

PHEASANT SOUP. 

179. INGREDIENTS. --2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a littlepounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter andham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan, with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strainthe soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previouslysoaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 10d. Per quart, or, if madewith fragments of gold game, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ from October to February. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Note_. --Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to greatadvantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice. 

PORTABLE SOUP. 

180. INGREDIENTS. --2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggotof herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 bladesof mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover allthe ingredients. 

_Mode_. --Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in astock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be notdone to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take offall the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over asharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast anduncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, andset it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place thedish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup isthick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a smallquantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out ona flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters. 

_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s. 

_Note_. --Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a smallpiece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, andsimmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes, may be added. 

 THE LAUREL or BAY. --The leaves of this tree frequently enter into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that there are two kinds of bay-trees, --the Classic laurel, whose leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings, custards &c. ; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be used at a time. 

RABBIT SOUP. 

181. INGREDIENTS. --2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savouryherbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt andwhite pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, theyolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quartsof water. 

_Mode_. --Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, andkeep the nice pieces for a dish or _entrée_. Put them into warm water, and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with afaggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock orwater. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, addthe vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let itcool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, andthe crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, andgradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mixarrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), andstir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be verywhite, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour, vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5minutes before serving. 

_Time_. --Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

REGENCY SOUP. 

182. Ingredients. --Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as ofpheasants, partridges, &c. ; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery, 1 turnip, 1/4 lb. Of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or commonstock, No. 106. 

_Mode_. --Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with thevegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim offall the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, andwhen the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half withthe yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub it through aclean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, andserve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. Per quart, if made with mediumstock, or 6d. Per quart, with common stock. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

SOUP A LA REINE. 

I. 

183. INGREDIENTS. --1 large fowl, 1 oz. Of sweet almonds, the crumb of 11/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump ofsugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107. 

_Mode_. --Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which willbe in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meatfrom the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and poundvery fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with thecrumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through atammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if youprefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour thesoup over it, when you serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 2s. 7d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in anotherof boiling water. (_See_ BAIN MARIE, No. 87. )

II. (Economical. )

184. INGREDIENTS. --Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106. 

_Mode_. --Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which hasbeen slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded, dilutewith the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should neither betoo clear nor too thick. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Note_. --If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, withan onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt, and stew for 3 hours. 

STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT. 

185. INGREDIENTS. --Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs. ; 4carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. Of oatmealor ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for23/4 hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season, and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. Per quart without the meat. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Note_. --If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with thevegetables. 

STEW SOUP. 

I. 

186. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. Of_rice_, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, andboil gently for 21/2 hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a greatimprovement. 

_Time_. -21/2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

II. 

187. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of splitpeas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. Of oatmeal or 3 oz. Ofrice, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and addthem, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken withthe oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, andseason with pepper and salt. 

_Time_. --3-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has beenboiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c. 

TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas). 

188. INGREDIENTS. --2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of acold roast turkey, 2 oz. Of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper totaste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; letit simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones out, and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix therice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add itwith the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ at Christmas. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may beserved in it. 

 THE TURKEY. --The common turkey is a native of North America, and was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, " about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts. 

 "Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd, Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear, As then in the country is counted good cheer. "

 It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever becoming plentiful. They are very fond of the seeds of nettles, and the seeds of the foxglove poison them. 

TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe). 

189. INGREDIENTS. --A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 1 bottle ofMadeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the _Quenelles à Tortue_, 1 lb. Of veal, 1lb. Of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, choppedparsley, the juice of 2 lemons. 

_Mode_. --To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of theturtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaningheavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cutthis off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. May run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with theknife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, whichsometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members isobtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; andwhen you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boilthe back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will beboiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them onearthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put themto cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used tomoisten all the sauces. 

All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must bedrawn down in the following manner:--Lay the slices of ham on the bottomof a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according tothe size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and overthe whole the members. Now moisten with the water in which you areboiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It may now beascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into thefleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten itagain with the liquor in which the bones, &c. Have been boiling. Put ina large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of aturtle, --sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and alarge onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. Withrespect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and ifso, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make theirappearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh isalso completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a verythin white _roux;_ for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When theflour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils. Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then drawthe stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, andall the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this timeall the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut toabout the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup, which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fatand froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock, --sweetbasil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onioncut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan, with about 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow firetill quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a smallbit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When done, rub itthrough a tammy, and add it to the soup. Let this boil, till no whitescum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of thesauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour thesoup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:--

QUENELLES À TORTUE. --Make some _quenelles à tortue_, which beingsubstitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out thefleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb. , scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the samequantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf'sudder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a littlecayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; thenthicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next trythis _farce_ or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain itsconsistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the _farce_is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Letthe whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg;poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on asieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juiceof 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into thesoup. THE FINS may be served as a _plat d'entrée_ with a little turtlesauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle _au bainmarie_, and serve the members entire, with a _matelote_ sauce, garnishedwith mushrooms, cocks' combs, _quenelles_, &c. When either lemon-juiceor cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place. 

_Note_. --It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a daybefore it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being moreuniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preservethe green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour, --thenatural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and trueconnoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle isentirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, itwill be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will breakall the rest into rags. If you warm in a _bain marie_, the turtle willalways retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomesstrong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour. 

THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP. --This is the most expensive soup brought totable. It is sold by the quart, --one guinea being the standard price forthat quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. To 2s. Per lb. , according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks usethe tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by beingput in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. Thecost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs. , is about £2, and for asmall one, containing the green fat, 7s. 6d. From these about 6 quartsof good soup may be made. 

[Illustration: THE TURTLE. ]

 THE GREEN TURTLE. --This reptile is found in large numbers on the coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in both the old and new worlds. Their length is often five feet and upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same places as if entirely by accident. England is mostly supplied with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive and in tolerable health. The green turtle is highly prized on account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest and most delicate parts. The soup, however, is apt to disagree with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the turtle has only come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord mayor's dinner in Guildhall. 

A GOOD FAMILY SOUP. 

190. INGREDIENTS. --Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. Of shin of beef, anycold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice;salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain off thesoup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts of thetongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all thefat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a smallquantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetablesare tender, and serve with toasted bread. 

_Time_. --5 hours. __Average cost_, 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons. 

HODGE-PODGE. 

191. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint oftable-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper andsalt to taste; thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a fewminutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; stewgently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, andserve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery. 

_Time_. --3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 12 persons. 

 TABLE BEER. --This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is, or ought to be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the best pale malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. Of hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not adapted to keep long. 

FISH SOUPS. 

FISH STOCK. 

192. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of beef or veal (these can be omitted), anykind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for table, 2 onions, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 carrots, 2quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, intothe water. Simmer for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, and strain it. When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before addingthe water. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, with meat, 10d. Per quart; without, 3d. 

_Note_. --Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soonturns sour. 

CRAYFISH SOUP. 

193. INGREDIENTS. --50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 6 anchovies, thecrumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste, 2quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192. 

_Mode_. --Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates untilthey are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter andanchovies; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for 3/4 ofan hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the stockto it, with the crumb of the rolls; give it one boil, and rub it througha tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in the fish, but do not let thesoup boil, after it has been rubbed through the tammy. If necessary, addseasoning. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. Or 1s. 9d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from January to July. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

[Illustration: CRAYFISH. ]

 THE CRAYFISH. --This is one of those fishes that were highly esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when brought from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, and seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us, that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with about three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them, because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the water in which they are kept, to be continually renewed. 

EEL SOUP. 

194. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 blades ofmace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 oz. Of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in thestewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then pourthe water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs, mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not breakthe fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a batterwith the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 10d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream, and adding a little ketchup or Harvey's sauce. 

LOBSTER SOUP. 

195. INGREDIENTS. --3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of aFrench roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 stripof lemon-peel, 2 oz. Of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepperto taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, andsmall claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin and thebag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the roll, anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer gently tillall the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the spawn in amortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the creamand milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the tails cut inpieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a fewbread crumbs; moisten them with the egg, heat them in the soup, andserve. 

_Time_. --2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3s 6d per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from April to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

I. 

196. INGREDIENTS. --6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pintof cream, 2 oz. Of butter, 1-1/2 oz. Of flour; salt, cayenne, and maceto taste. 

_Mode_. --Scald the oysters in their own liquor; take them out, beardthem, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in thebeards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and simmer for1/2 an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add theremainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to a boil, add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes, stir inthe boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 8d. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream, and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour. 

II. 

197. INGREDIENTS. --2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz. Butter, 1 oz. Of flour. 

_Mode_. --Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor; then addit, well strained, to the broth; thicken with the butter and flour, andsimmer for 1/4 of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not letit boil, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. Per quart. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

 SEASON OF OYSTERS. --From April and May to the end of July, oysters are said to be sick; but by the end of August they become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning. When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the females a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of Oppian, it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the oyster is generally found adhering to rocks. The starfish is one of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says:--

 The prickly star creeps on with full deceit To force the oyster from his close retreat. When gaping lids their widen'd void display, The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray, Of all its treasures spoils the rifled case, And empty shells the sandy hillock grace. 

PRAWN SOUP. 

198. INGREDIENTS. --2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns, the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste, 1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stewpanwith 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity ofwater; stew them for 1/4 hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fishstock or water into a stewpan; add the strained liquor, pound the prawnswith the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup, rub themthrough a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup; add ketchup oranchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice. When it is wellcooked, put in a few picked prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, andserve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter and flour. 

_Time_. --hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. Per quart, if made with water. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli served init, which makes it a very tasteful soup. 

[Illustration: THE PRAWN. ]

 THE PRAWN. --This little fish bears a striking resemblance to the shrimp, but is neither so common nor so small. It is to be found on most of the sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is famous for shrimps, where they are potted; but both the prawns and the shrimps vended in London, are too much salted for the excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved. They are extremely lively little animals, as seen in their native retreats. 

[Illustration]

FISH. 

CHAPTER VII. 

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES. 

199. IN NATURAL HISTORY, FISHES form the fourth class in the system ofLinnaeus, and are described as having long under-jaws, eggs withoutwhite, organs of sense, fins for supporters, bodies covered with concavescales, gills to supply the place of lungs for respiration, and waterfor the natural element of their existence. Had mankind no otherknowledge of animals than of such as inhabit the land and breathe theirown atmosphere, they would listen with incredulous wonder, if told thatthere were other kinds of beings which existed only in the waters, andwhich would die almost as soon as they were taken from them. Howeverstrongly these facts might be attested, they would hardly believe them, without the operation of their own senses, as they would recollect theeffect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water, and theimpossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened periodof time. Experience, however, has taught them, that the "great deep" iscrowded with inhabitants of various sizes, and of vastly differentconstructions, with modes of life entirely distinct from those whichbelong to the animals of the land, and with peculiarities of design, equally wonderful with those of any other works which have come from thehand of the Creator. The history of these races, however, must remainfor ever, more or less, in a state of darkness, since the depths inwhich they live, are beyond the power of human exploration, and sincethe illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirelyout of the reach of human accessibility. 

200. IN STUDYING THE CONFORMATION OF FISHES, we naturally conclude thatthey are, in every respect, well adapted to the element in which theyhave their existence. Their shape has a striking resemblance to thelower part of a ship; and there is no doubt that the form of the fishoriginally suggested the form of the ship. The body is in generalslender, gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities, andflattened on each of its sides. This is precisely the form of the lowerpart of the hull of a ship; and it enables both the animal and thevessel, with comparative ease, to penetrate and divide the resistingmedium for which they have been adapted. The velocity of a ship, however, in sailing before the wind, is by no means to be compared tothat of a fish. It is well known that the largest fishes will, with thegreatest ease, overtake a ship in full sail, play round it withouteffort, and shoot ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from their greatflexibility, which, to compete with mocks the labours of art, andenables them to migrate thousands of miles in a season, without theslightest indications of languor or fatigue. 

201. THE PRINCIPAL INSTRUMENTS EMPLOYED BY FISHES to accelerate theirmotion, are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. By means of theair-bladder they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of theirbodies. When they wish to sink, they compress the muscles of theabdomen, and eject the air contained in it; by which, their weight, compared with that of the water, is increased, and they consequentlydescend. On the other hand, when they wish to rise, they relax thecompression of the abdominal muscles, when the air-bladder fills anddistends, and the body immediately ascends to the surface. How simply, yet how wonderfully, has the Supreme Being adapted certain means to theattainment of certain ends! Those fishes which are destitute of theair-bladder are heavy in the water, and have no great "alacrity" inrising. The larger proportion of them remain at the bottom, unless theyare so formed as to be able to strike their native element downwardswith sufficient force to enable them to ascend. When the air-bladder ofa fish is burst, its power of ascending to the surface has for everpassed away. From a knowledge of this fact, the fishermen of cod areenabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in theirwell-boats. The means they adopt to accomplish this, is to perforate thesound, or air-bladder, with a needle, which disengages the air, when thefishes immediately descend to the bottom of the well, into which theyare thrown. Without this operation, it would be impossible to keep thecod under water whilst they had life. In swimming, the _fins_ enablefishes to preserve their upright position, especially those of thebelly, which act like two feet. Without those, they would swim withtheir bellies upward, as it is in their backs that the centre of gravitylies. In ascending and descending, these are likewise of greatassistance, as they contract and expand accordingly. The _tail_ is aninstrument of great muscular force, and largely assists the fish in allits motions. In some instances it acts like the rudder of a ship, andenables it to turn sideways; and when moved from side to side with aquick vibratory motion, fishes are made, in the same manner as the"screw" propeller makes a steamship, to dart forward with a celerityproportioned to the muscular force with which it is employed. 

202. THE BODIES OF FISHES are mostly covered with a kind of hornyscales; but some are almost entirely without them, or have them sominute as to be almost invisible; as is the case with the eel. Theobject of these is to preserve them from injury by the pressure of thewater, or the sudden contact with pebbles, rocks, or sea-weeds. Others, again, are enveloped in a fatty, oleaginous substance, also intended asa defence against the friction of the water; and those in which thescales are small, are supplied with a larger quantity of slimy matter. 

203. THE RESPIRATION OF FISHES is effected by means of those comb-likeorgans which are placed on each side of the neck, and which are calledgills. It is curious to watch the process of breathing as it isperformed by the finny tribes. It seems to be so continuous, that itmight almost pass for an illustration of the vexed problem whichconceals the secret of perpetual motion. In performing it, they filltheir mouths with water, which they drive backwards with a force sogreat as to open the large flap, to allow it to escape behind. In thisoperation all, or a great portion, of the air contained in the water, isleft among the feather-like processes of the gills, and is carried intothe body, there to perform its part in the animal economy. In proof ofthis, it has been ascertained that, if the water in which fishes areput, is, by any means, denuded of its air, they immediately seek thesurface, and begin to gasp for it. Hence, distilled water is to themwhat a vacuum made by an air-pump, is to most other animals. For thisreason, when a fishpond, or other aqueous receptacle in which fishes arekept, is entirely frozen over, it is necessary to make holes in the ice, not so especially for the purpose of feeding them, as for that of givingthem air to breathe. 

204. THE POSITIONS OF THE TEETH OF FISHES are well calculated to exciteour amazement; for, in some cases, these are situated in the jaws, sometimes on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat. They are in general sharp-pointed and immovable; but in the carp theyare obtuse, and in the pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeperhold than such as the mere skin can afford. In the herring, the tongueis set with teeth, to enable it the better, it is supposed, to retainits food. 

205. ALTHOUGH NATURALISTS HAVE DIVIDED FISHES into two great tribes, the_osseous_ and the _cartilaginous_, yet the distinction is not veryprecise; for the first have a great deal of cartilage, and the second, at any rate, a portion of calcareous matter in their bones. It may, therefore, be said that the bones of fishes form a kind of intermediatesubstance between true bones and cartilages. The backbone extendsthrough the whole length of the body, and consists of vertebrae, strongand thick towards the head, but weaker and more slender as it approachesthe tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which areincreased in size in proportion with the body. The ribs are attached tothe processes of the vertebrae, and inclose the breast and abdomen. Somekinds, as the rays, have no ribs; whilst others, as the sturgeon andeel, have very short ones. Between the pointed processes of thevertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal (back) and theanal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the processes by aligament. At the breast are the sternum or breastbone, clavicles orcollar-bones, and the scapulae or shoulder-blades, on which thepectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which support the ventralor belly fins are called the _ossa pelvis_. Besides these principalbones, there are often other smaller ones, placed between the muscles toassist their motion. 

206. SOME OF THE ORGANS OF SENSE IN FISHES are supposed to be possessedby them in a high degree, and others much more imperfectly. Of thelatter kind are the senses of touch and taste, which are believed to bevery slightly developed. On the other hand, those of hearing, seeing, and smelling, are ascertained to be acute, but the first in a lesserdegree than both the second and third. Their possession of an auditoryorgan was long doubted, and even denied by some physiologists; but ithas been found placed on the sides of the skull, or in the cavity whichcontains the brain. It occupies a position entirely distinct anddetached from the skull, and, in this respect, differs in the localdisposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds. In some fishes, as in those of the ray kind, the organ is wholly encompassed by thoseparts which contain the cavity of the skull; whilst in the cod andsalmon kind it is in the part within the skull. Its structure is, inevery way, much more simple than that of the same sense in those animalswhich live entirely in the air; but there is no doubt that they have theadaptation suitable to their condition. In some genera, as in the rays, the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the uppersurface of the head; whilst in others there is no visible externalorifice whatever. However perfect the _sight_ of fishes may be, experience has shown that this sense is of much less use to them thanthat of smelling, in searching for their food. The optic nerves infishes have this peculiarity, --that they are not confounded with oneanother in their middle progress between their origin and their orbit. The one passes over the other without any communication; so that thenerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes distinctly to theright eye, and that which comes from the right goes distinctly to theleft. In the greater part of them, the eye is covered with the sametransparent skin that covers the rest of the head. The object of thisarrangement, perhaps, is to defend it from the action of the water, asthere are no eyelids. The globe in front is somewhat depressed, and isfurnished behind with a muscle, which serves to lengthen or flatten it, according to the necessities of the animal. The crystalline humour, which in quadrupeds is flattened, is, in fishes, nearly globular. Theorgan of _smelling_ in fishes is large, and is endued, at its entry, with a dilating and contracting power, which is employed as the wants ofthe animal may require. It is mostly by the acuteness of their smellthat fishes are enabled to discover their food; for their tongue is notdesigned for nice sensation, being of too firm a cartilaginous substancefor this purpose. 

207. WITH RESPECT TO THE FOOD OF FISHES, this is almost universallyfound in their own element. They are mostly carnivorous, though theyseize upon almost anything that comes in their way: they even devourtheir own offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for allliving creatures. Those, to which Nature has meted out mouths of thegreatest capacity, would seem to pursue everything with life, andfrequently engage in fierce conflicts with their prey. The animal withthe largest mouth is usually the victor; and he has no sooner conqueredhis foe than he devours him. Innumerable shoals of one species pursuethose of another, with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to theequator, through all the varying temperatures and depths of theirboundless domain. In these pursuits a scene of universal violence is theresult; and many species must have become extinct, had not Natureaccurately proportioned the means of escape, the production, and thenumbers, to the extent and variety of the danger to which they areexposed. Hence the smaller species are not only more numerous, but moreproductive than the larger; whilst their instinct leads them in searchof food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of thewaters, many of their foes are unable to follow them. 

208. THE FECUNDITY OF FISHES has been the wonder of every naturalphilosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject. They arein general oviparous, or egg-producing; but there are a few, such as theeel and the blenny, which are viviparous, or produce their young alive. The males have the _milt_ and the females the _roe_; but someindividuals, as the sturgeon and the cod tribes, are said to containboth. The greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel; butsome of those which dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggsto sea-weeds. In every instance, however, their fruitfulness farsurpasses that of any other race of animals. According to Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs, contained in asingle roe. The flounder produces one million; the mackerel above fivehundred thousand; a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand; acarp fourteen inches in length, according to Petit, contained twohundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four; a perchdeposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty; and afemale sturgeon seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand twohundred. The viviparous species are by no means so prolific; yet theblenny brings forth two or three hundred at a time, which commencesporting together round their parent the moment they have come intoexistence. 

209. IN REFERENCE TO THE LONGEVITY OF FISHES, it is affirmed to surpassthat of all other created beings; and it is supposed they are, to agreat extent, exempted from the diseases to which the flesh of otheranimals is heir. In place of suffering from the rigidity of age, whichis the cause of the natural decay of those that "live and move and havetheir being" on the land, their bodies continue to grow with eachsucceeding supply of food, and the conduits of life to perform theirfunctions unimpaired. The age of fishes has not been properlyascertained, although it is believed that the most minute of the specieshas a longer lease of life than man. The mode in which they die has beennoted by the Rev. Mr. White, the eminent naturalist of Selbourne. Assoon as the fish sickens, the head sinks lower and lower, till theanimal, as it were, stands upon it. After this, as it becomes weaker, itloses its poise, till the tail turns over, when it comes to the surface, and floats with its belly upwards. The reason for its floating in thismanner is on account of the body being no longer balanced by the fins ofthe belly, and the broad muscular back preponderating, by its owngravity, over the belly, from this latter being a cavity, andconsequently lighter. 

210. FISHES ARE EITHER SOLITARY OR GREGARIOUS, and some of them migrateto great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Ofsea-fishes, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble inimmense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean; but, whether considered in their solitary or gregarious capacity, they arealike wonderful to all who look through Nature up to Nature's God, andconsider, with due humility, yet exalted admiration, the sublimevariety, beauty, power, and grandeur of His productions, as manifestedin the Creation. 

FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD. 

211. AS THE NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF FISH are deemed inferior to those ofwhat is called butchers' meat, it would appear, from all we can learn, that, in all ages, it has held only a secondary place in the estimationof those who have considered the science of gastronomy as a largeelement in the happiness of mankind. Among the Jews of old it was verylittle used, although it seems not to have been entirely interdicted, asMoses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor fins. The Egyptians, however, made fish an article of diet, notwithstandingthat it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however, is not a countryfavourable to the production of fish, although we read of the people, when hungry, eating it raw; of epicures among them having dried it inthe sun; and of its being salted and preserved, to serve as a repast ondays of great solemnity. 

 The modern Egyptians are, in general, extremely temperate in regard to food. Even the richest among them take little pride, and, perhaps, experience as little delight, in the luxuries of the table. Their dishes mostly consist of pilaus, soups, and stews, prepared principally of onions, cucumbers, and other cold vegetables, mixed with a little meat cut into small pieces. On special occasions, however, a whole sheep is placed on the festive board; but during several of the hottest months of the year, the richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable diet. The poor are contented with a little oil or sour milk, in which they may dip their bread. 

212. PASSING FROM AFRICA TO EUROPE, we come amongst a people who have, almost from time immemorial, occupied a high place in the estimation ofevery civilized country; yet the Greeks, in their earlier ages, madevery little use of fish as an article of diet. In the eyes of the heroesof Homer it had little favour; for Menelaus complained that "hungerpressed their digestive organs, " and they had been obliged to live uponfish. Subsequently, however, fish became one of the principal articlesof diet amongst the Hellenes; and both Aristophanes and Athenaeus alludeto it, and even satirize their countrymen for their excessive partialityto the turbot and mullet. 

 So infatuated were many of the Greek gastronomes with the love of fish, that some of them would have preferred death from indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious dainties with which a few of the species supplied them. Philoxenes of Cythera was one of these. On being informed by his physician that he was going to die of indigestion, on account of the quantity he was consuming of a delicious fish, "Be it so, " he calmly observed; "but before I die, let me finish the remainder. "

213. THE GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF GREECE was highly favourable for thedevelopment of a taste for the piscatory tribes; and the skill of theGreek cooks was so great, that they could impart every variety of relishto the dish they were called upon to prepare. Athenaeus has transmittedto posterity some very important precepts upon their ingenuity inseasoning with salt, oil, and aromatics. 

 At the present day the food of the Greeks, through the combined influence of poverty and the long fasts which their religion imposes upon them, is, to a large extent, composed of fish, accompanied with vegetables and fruit. Caviare, prepared from the roes of sturgeons, is the national ragout, which, like all other fish dishes, they season with aromatic herbs. Snails dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish. 

214. AS THE ROMANS, in a great measure, took their taste in the finearts from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscineappetites. The eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fishdishes of the Roman epicures; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as oneof the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table. 

 With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of the red mullet suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to us, _horrible_ entertainment of the _fashionable_ in Roman circles. It may be premised, that as England has, Rome, in her palmy days, had, her fops, who had, no doubt, through the medium of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red mullet were removed, the flesh presented a fine pink-colour. Having discovered this, it was further observed that at the death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of beautiful shades, and, in order that these might be witnessed and enjoyed in their fullest perfection, the poor mullet was served alive in a glass vessel. 

215. THE LOVE OF FISH among the ancient Romans rose to a real mania. Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brinecompounded of the liver of red mullets; and Lucullus had a canal cutthrough a mountain, in the neighbourhood of Naples, that fish might bethe more easily transported to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, theorator, wept over the death of a turbot which he had fed with his ownhands; and the daughter of Druses adorned one that she had, with ringsof gold. These were, surely, instances of misplaced affection; but thereis no accounting for tastes. It was but the other day that we read inthe "_Times_" of a wealthy _living_ English hermit, who delights in thecompanionship of rats!

 The modern Romans are merged in the general name of Italians, who, with the exception of macaroni, have no specially characteristic article of food. 

216. FROM ROME TO GAUL is, considering the means of modern locomotion, no great way; but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give uslittle information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of itsinhabitants. Louis XII. Engaged six fishmongers to furnish his boardwith fresh-water animals, and Francis I. Had twenty-two, whilst Henrythe Great extended his requirements a little further, and hadtwenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV. The cooks had attained to such adegree of perfection in their art, that they could convert the form andflesh of the trout, pike, or carp, into the very shape and flavour ofthe most delicious game. 

 The French long enjoyed a European reputation for their skill and refinement in the preparing of food. In place of plain joints, French cookery delights in the marvels of what are called made dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, in which no trace of the original materials of which they are compounded is to be found. 

217. FROM GAUL WE CROSS TO BRITAIN, where it has been asserted, by, atleast, one authority, that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish. Howeverthis may be, we know that the British shores, particularly those of theNorth Sea, have always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish, which we may reasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants, orlikely to be lost upon them for the lack of knowledge as to how theytasted. By the time of Edward II. , fish had, in England, become adainty, especially the sturgeon, which was permitted to appear on notable but that of the king. In the fourteenth century, a decree of KingJohn informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises; whilst inthe days of the Troubadours, whales were fished for and caught in theMediterranean Sea, for the purpose of being used as human food. 

 Whatever checks the ancient British may have had upon their piscatory appetites, there are happily none of any great consequence upon the modern, who delight in wholesome food of every kind. Their taste is, perhaps, too much inclined to that which is accounted solid and substantial; but they really eat more moderately, even of animal food, than either the French or the Germans. Roast beef, or other viands cooked in the plainest manner, are, with them, a sufficient luxury; yet they delight in living _well_, whilst it is easy to prove how largely their affections are developed by even the prospect of a substantial cheer. In proof of this we will just observe, that if a great dinner is to be celebrated, it is not uncommon for the appointed stewards and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner among themselves, in order to arrange the great one, and after that, to have another dinner to discharge the bill which the great one cost. This enjoyable disposition we take to form a very large item in the aggregate happiness of the nation. 

218. THE GENERAL USE OF FISH, as an article of human food amongcivilized nations, we have thus sufficiently shown, and will concludethis portion of our subject with the following hints, which ought to beremembered by all those who are fond of occasionally varying theirdietary with a piscine dish:--

I. Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition. When the spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit forhuman food. 

II. When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge, however much it may be boiled; when it is in season, its muscles arefirm, and boil white and curdy. 

III. As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal-fish, and whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot, and flounders, are also good. 

IV. Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose afterthey are killed; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be preparedfor the table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this is not ofsuch consequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for example, isimproved by being kept a day or two. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRESSING FISH. 

219. IN DRESSING FISH, of any kind, the first point to be attended to, is to see that it be perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash ittoo much; as by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to beboiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to giveit firmness, after it is cleaned. Cod-fish, whiting, and haddock, arefar better if a little salted, and kept a day; and if the weather be notvery hot, they will be good for two days. 

220. WHEN FISH IS CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL, and a larger quantity ispurchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bearit should be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it may befried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish, having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strongsalt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, it may be scalded in salt and water, and afterwards dried and dressed. 

221. FISH SHOULD BE PUT INTO COLD WATER, and set on the fire to do verygently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unlessthe fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; norshould water, either hot or cold, be poured _on_ to the fish, as it isliable to break the skin: if it should be necessary to add a littlewater whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at theside of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fishbe ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. Itshould then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will becomewoolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keephot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losingits colour. 

222. IN GARNISHING FISH, great attention is required, and plenty ofparsley, horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley beused, it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. Whenthe lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately fromthe water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be takenup with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is moreappreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in someinstances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may bedistributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will beappended the proper mode of serving and garnishing. 

223. IF FISH IS TO BE FRIED OR BROILED, it must be dried in a nice softcloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it overwith egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done asecond time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much thebetter. If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-papermust be placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease. Itmust also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are mostfrequently used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection. The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be asufficiency of this to cover it. 

224. WHEN FISH IS BROILED, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on avery clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit ofsuet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a veryclear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it maynot be scorched. 

225. IN CHOOSING FISH, it is well to remember that it is possible it maybe _fresh_, and yet not _good_. Under the head of each particular fishin this work, are appended rules for its choice and the months when itis in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than tohave the fish good; as if this important course in a dinner does notgive satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

FISH. 

[_Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of Fish, inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of oneday, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish--a turbotfor instance--which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings, will, to-morrow, be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost asmany pounds. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appendedto each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for thedifferent kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon an average, and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality. _

GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH. --_A proof of freshness and goodness inmost fishes, is their being covered with scales; for, if deficient inthis respect, it is a sign of their being stale, or having beenill-used. _]

FRIED ANCHOVIES. 

226. INGREDIENTS. --1 tablespoonful of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine, sufficient flour to thicken; 12 anchovies. 

_Mode_. --Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to makethem into a thickish paste; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip themin the paste, and fry of a nice brown colour. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 9d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. 

[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY. ]

 THE ANCHOVY. --In his book of "British Fishes, " Mr. Yarrell states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean, from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and Romans, by whom the liquor prepared from it, called _garum_, was in great estimation. Its extreme range is extended into the Black Sea. The fishing for them is carried on during the night, and lights are used with the nets. The anchovy is common on the coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have no doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been taken on the Hampshire coast, and in the Bristol Channel. " Other fish, of inferior quality, but resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are frequently sold for it, and passed off as genuine. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE. 

227. INGREDIENTS. --2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. Of fresh butter. 

_Mode_. --Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and poundthem in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with them, and rubthe whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for use, andcarefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes the colourof anchovies, besides spoiling them. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 

POTTED ANCHOVIES. 

POTTED ANCHOVIES are made in the same way, by adding pounded mace, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. 

ANCHOVY TOAST. 

228. INGREDIENTS. --Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted verysavoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No. 227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the pastebefore laying it on the toast. 

 ANCHOVY PASTE. --"When some delicate zest, " says a work just issued on the adulterations of trade, "is required to make the plain English breakfast more palatable, many people are in the habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully corked down, and surrounded by a red-looking liquor, resembling in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one shilling only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are what is termed potted, it implies that the fish have been pounded into the consistency of a paste, and then placed in flat pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an excellent _bonne bouche_, which enables gentlemen at wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto. Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of these preserved delicacies, that contains anything indicative of anchovies, is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot, on which the word itself is printed. .. . All the samples of anchovy paste, analyzed by different medical men, have been found to be highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole Armenian. " The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead colour, and it is to make it a bright "handsome-looking sauce" that this red earth is used. 

BARBEL. 

229. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2barbels, according to size. 

_Mode_--Boil the barbels in salt and water till done; pour off some ofthe water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned above. Simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and strain. Put in the fish;heat it gradually; but do not let it boil, or it will be broken. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to November. 

[Illustration: THE BARBEL. ]

 THE BARBEL, --This fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels at its mouth; and, in England, is esteemed as one of the worst of the fresh-water fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now, a favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of fish. Others would boil with it a piece of bacon, that it might have a relish. It is to be met with from two to three or four feet long, and is said to live to a great age. From Putney upwards, in the Thames, some are found of large size; but they are valued only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle. 

BRILL. 

230. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water; a littlevinegar. 

_Mode_. --Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with alittle lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set the fish insufficient cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in the aboveproportions, and a little vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil;simmer very gently till the fish is done, which will be in about 10minutes; but the time for boiling, of course, depends entirely on thesize of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, parsley, horseradish, and a little lobster coral sprinkled over thefish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table withit. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, a small brill, 10 minutes; a largebrill, 15 to 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, from 4s. To 8s. 

_Seasonable_ from August to April. 

[Illustration: THE BRILL. ]

 THE BRILL. --This fish resembles the sole, but is broader, and when large, is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than the turbot, whilst it is much cheaper. It is a fine fish, and is abundant in the London market. 

TO CHOOSE BRILL. --The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should beof a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness. If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good. 

CODFISH. 

231. Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quitesufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped, because, when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. Thelatter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying; or it may besalted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when boiledquite fresh, is watery; salting a little, renders it firmer. 

[Illustration: THE COD. ]

 THE COD TRIBE. --The Jugular, characterized by bony gills, and ventral fins before the pectoral ones, commences the second of the Linnaean orders of fishes, and is a numerous tribe, inhabiting only the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and the gill membrane has seven rays. The body is oblong, and covered with deciduous scales. The fins are all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are unarmed. The ventral fins are slender, and terminate in a point. Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and other marine animals. 

COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. 

232. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient water to cover the fish; 5 oz. Of salt toeach gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over thethick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, asthis very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, withsufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour thewater on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it justsimmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it inat the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the aboveproportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, drawit to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take itout and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, horseradish, the roe and liver. (_See_ Coloured Plate C. )

_Time_. --According to size, 1/2 an hour, more or less. _Average cost_, from 3s. To 6s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Note_. --Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served withthis. 

TO CHOOSE COD. --The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plumpand round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, andwhen the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous partsabout the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has beentwenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the codshould be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and, although the cod isnot firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing thefinger into the flesh. If this rises immediately, the fish is good; ifnot, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness is, if the fish, when itis cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver side of a round ofbeef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness, though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibitingsigns of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, sostrongly recommended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generallycaused by the fish having been knocked about at sea, in the well-boats, in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market. 

SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLED "SALT-FISH. "

233. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient water to cover the fish. 

_Mode_. --Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a 1/4 pintof vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it isperfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient coldwater to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, orthe fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and putit on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ in the spring. 

_Sufficient_ for each person, 1/4 lb. 

_Note_. --Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish onAsh Wednesday. 

 PRESERVING COD. --Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads are cut off. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel, in beds of five or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt to each layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four days, in order that the water may drain from them, they are shifted into a different part of the vessel, and again salted. Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the greater convenience of carriage. 

COD SOUNDS. 

Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed beforedressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either bebroiled, fried, or boiled: if they are boiled, mix a little milk withthe water. 

COD SOUNDS, EN POULE. 

234. INGREDIENTS. --For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 choppedanchovies, 1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1 oz. Of butter, 2 eggs; seasoningof salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds. 

_Mode_. --Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 1/2 an hour; takethem out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, rollthem up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with lard, dredge withflour, and cook them gently before the fire in a Dutch oven. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

 THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH. --These are the air or swimming bladders, by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in the water. In the Newfoundland fishery they are taken out previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime and salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up in barrels; whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of oil are extracted, this oil having been found possessed of the most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases of pulmonary affections. 

COD PIE. 

(_Economical_. )

I. 

235. INGREDIENTS. --Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficientmelted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish. 

_Mode_. --Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all theskin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (oroyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

II. 

236. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste; 1/2 ateaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (_see_ Pastry). Forsauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickeningof flour or butter; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste; 12 oysters. 

_Mode_. --Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in adish; season, and add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, andbake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing theingredients named above; give it one boil, and pour it into the pie by ahole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by asmall piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape--such as aleaf, or otherwise. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Note_. --The remains of cold fish may be used for this pie. 

CURRIED COD. 

237. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any coldfish; 3 oz. Of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock, thickening of butter and flour, 1 small teaspoonful of curry-powder, 1/4 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with thebutter and onions; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thickening, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the cream; put it, with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; give one boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 3s. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

 THE FOOD OF THE COD. --This chiefly consists of the smaller species of the scaly tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their voracity is very great, and they will bite at any small body they see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a great size, but their usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs. 

COD A LA CREME. 

238. INGREDIENTS. --1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 choppedshalot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 teacupful of white stock, 1/4 pintof milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. 

_Mode_. --Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes; put thebutter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them boil for5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it the milkor cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and sugar, and, whenliked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the sauce to warmgradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished withcroûtons. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream, 2s. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

_Note_. --The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well forthis dish. 

COD A LA BECHAMEL. 

239. INGREDIENTS. --Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel(_see_ Sauces), 2 oz. Butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt;fried bread, a few bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Flake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone; put thebéchamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the fire tillthe latter is melted; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it wellwith the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish, lay in thefish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Browneither before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toastedbread cut in fanciful shapes. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fish, 6d. 

 THE HABITAT OF THE COD. --This fish is found only in the seas of the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45° and 66°. Its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places are its favourite resorts; for there it is able to obtain great quantities of worms, a food peculiarly grateful to it. Another cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to spawn. Few are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never reach so far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are taken on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the Orkneys, which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the principal fisheries. The London market is supplied by those taken between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the east coast of England. 

COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

240. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. Of butter, a little choppedshalot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, or rather less, when the flavour is not liked; the juice of 1/4 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is stillbetter, flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into astewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt thebutter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like oil. When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice, andserve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. ; with remains of cold fish, 5d. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Note_. --Cod that has been left will do for this. 

 THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD. --The best season for catching cod is from the beginning of February to the end of April; and although each fisherman engaged in taking them, catches no more than one at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate. 

COD A L'ITALIENNE. 

241. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of hamminced very fine, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; when liked, 1/2teacupful of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, alittle lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. 

_Mode_. --Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the stock, and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good, add creamin the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve; season it, and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, takeout the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish without breaking, and pour the sauce over it. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. , with fresh fish. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

 THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD. --In our preceding remarks on the natural history of fishes, we have spoken of the amazing fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we see one more instance of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the wants of man. So extensive has been the consumption of this fish, that it is surprising that it has not long ago become extinct; which would certainly have been the case, had it not been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. "So early as 1368, " says Dr. Cloquet, "the inhabitants of Amsterdam had dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went out to the cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10, 000 vessels, of all nations, are employed in this trade, and bring into the commercial world more than 40, 000, 000 of salted and dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great deep, and take into account the destruction to which the young are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas, besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that the female can every year give birth to more than 9, 000, 000 at a time. "

BAKED CARP. 

242. INGREDIENTS--1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. Butter, 1/2pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onionssliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juiceof 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of powderedsugar. 

_Mode_. --Stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat, after thoroughlycleansing it, and sew it up to prevent the stuffing from falling out. Rub it over with an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, lay it in adeep earthen dish, and drop the butter, oiled, over the bread crumbs. Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, and bakefor 1 hour. Put 1 oz. Of butter into a stewpan, melt it, and dredge insufficient flour to dry it up; put in the strained liquor from the carp, stir frequently, and when it has boiled, add the lemon-juice andseasoning. Serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley and cutlemon, and the sauce in a boat. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons. 

[Illustration: THE CARP. ]

 THE CARP. --This species of fish inhabit the fresh waters, where they feed on worms, insects, aquatic plants, small fish, clay, or mould. Some of them are migratory. They have very small mouths and no teeth, and the gill membrane has three rays. The body is smooth, and generally whitish. The carp both grows and increases very fast, and is accounted the most valuable of all fish for the stocking of ponds. It has been pronounced the queen of river-fish, and was first introduced to this country about three hundred years ago. Of its sound, or air-bladder, a kind of glue is made, and a green paint of its gall. 

STEWED CARP. 

243. INGREDIENTS. --1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves, 12peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 1/4 pint of port wine, the juice of 1/2lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs. 

_Mode_. --Scale the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very large, divide it;lay it in the stewpan, after having rubbed a little salt on it, and putin sufficient stock to cover it; add the herbs, onions, and spices, andstew gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should it be very large. Dish upthe fish with great care, strain the liquor, and add to it the portwine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; give one boil, pour it over the fish, and serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_. Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 or 2 persons. 

_Note_. --This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley andbutter. Chub and Char may be cooked in the same manner as the above, asalso Dace and Roach. 

 THE AGE OF CARP. --This fish has been found to live 150 years. The pond in the garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, contained one that had lived there 70 years, and Gesner mentions an instance of one 100 years old. They are, besides, capable of being tamed. Dr. Smith, in his "Tour on the Continent, " says, in reference to the prince of Condé's seat at Chantilly, "The most pleasing things about it were the immense shoals of very large carp, silvered over with age, like silver-fish, and perfectly tame; so that, when any passengers approached their watery habitation, they used to come to the shore in such numbers as to heave each other out of the water, begging for bread, of which a quantity was always kept at hand, on purpose to feed them. They would even allow themselves to be handled. "

[Illustration: THE CHUB. ]

[Illustration: THE CHAR. ]

 THE CHUB. --This fish takes its name from its head, not only in England, but in other countries. It is a river-fish, and resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. Its flesh is not in much esteem, being coarse, and, when out of season, full of small hairy bones. The head and throat are the best parts. The roe is also good. 

 THE CHAR. --This is one of the most delicious of fish, being esteemed by some superior to the salmon. It is an inhabitant of the deep lakes of mountainous countries. Its flesh is rich and red, and full of fat. The largest and best kind is found in the lakes of Westmoreland, and, as it is considered a rarity, it is often potted and preserved. 

 THE DACE, OR DARE. --This fish is gregarious, and is seldom above ten inches long; although, according to Linnaeus, it grows a foot and a half in length. Its haunts are in deep water, near piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, over gravelly, sandy, or clayey bottoms; deep holes that are shaded, water-lily leaves, and under the foam caused by an eddy. In the warm months they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near to streams. They are in season about the end of April, and gradually improve till February, when they attain their highest condition. In that month, when just taken, scotched (crimped), and broiled, they are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring. 

 THE ROACH. --This fish is found throughout Europe, and the western parts of Asia, in deep still rivers, of which it is an inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight, and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in England, and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb, "as sound as a roach, " is derived from the French name of this fish being _roche_, which also means rock. 

[Illustration: THE DACE. ]

[Illustration: THE ROACH. ]

TO DRESS CRAB. 

244. INGREDIENTS. --1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil;salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste. 

_Mode_. --Empty the shells, and thoroughly mix the meat with the aboveingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of cutlemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when it is muchliked. (See Coloured Plate I. )

_Average cost_, from 10d. To 2s. 

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

TO CHOOSE CRAB. --The middle-sized crab is the best; and the crab, likethe lobster, should be judged by its weight; for if light, it is watery. 

HOT CRAB. 

245. INGREDIENTS. --1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. Ofbutter, 1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from theshells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter insmall pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altogether, putthe whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or with asalamander. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, from 10d. To 2s. 

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

[Illustration: THE CRAB. ]

 THE CRAB TRIBE. --The whole of this tribe of animals have the body covered with a hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh waters, and a few live upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants, small fish, molluscae, or dead bodies. The _black-clawed_ species is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India, and is the same that is introduced to our tables, being much more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the tribe. The most remarkable feature in their history, is the changing of their shells, and the reproduction of their broken claws. The former occurs once a year, usually between Christmas and Easter, when the crabs retire to cavities in the rocks, or conceal themselves under great stones. Fishermen say that they will live confined in a pot or basket for several months together, without any other food than what is collected from the sea-water; and that, even in this situation, they will not decrease in weight. The _hermit_ crab is another of the species, and has the peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some other animal, as it has none of its own. This circumstance was known to the ancients, and is alluded to in the following lines from Oppian:-- The hermit fish, unarm'd by Nature, left Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft. Fearful they stroll, and look with panting wish For the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish; Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore, Whose first and rightful owners are no more. They make glad seizure of the vacant room, And count the borrow'd shell their native home; Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case, And boldly herd with the crustaceous race. 

CRAYFISH. 

246. Crayfish should be thrown into boiling water, to which has beenadded a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done, whichwill be in 1/4 hour, take them out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with plenty of double parsley. 

_Note_. --This fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey, boiled fowl, calf's head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled fish. 

POTTED CRAYFISH. 

247. INGREDIENTS. --100 crayfish; pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. Butter. 

_Mode_. --Boil the fish in salt and water; pick out all the meat andpound it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, add the buttergradually, and mix in the spice and seasoning. Put it in small pots, andpour over it clarified butter, carefully excluding the air. 

_Time_. --15 minutes to boil the crayfish. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

JOHN DORY. 

248. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay itin a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the aboveproportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for 1/4hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hotnapkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, orshrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, 1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to size. 

_Average cost_, 3s. To 5s. _Seasonable_ all the year, but best fromSeptember to January. 

_Note_. --Small John Dorie are very good, baked. 

[Illustration: THE JOHN DORY. ]

 THE DORU, or JOHN DORY. --This fish is of a yellowish golden colour, and is, in general, rare, although it is sometimes taken in abundance on the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly esteemed for the table, and its flesh, when dressed, is of a beautiful clear white. When fresh caught, it is tough, and, being a ground fish, it is not the worse for being kept two, or even three days before it is cooked. 

BOILED EELS. 

249. INGREDIENTS. --4 small eels, sufficient water to cover them; a largebunch of parsley. 

_Mode_. --Choose small eels for boiling; put them in a stewpan with theparsley, and just sufficient water to cover them; simmer till tender. Take them out, pour a little parsley and butter over them, and servesome in a tureen. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

[Illustration: THE EEL. ]

 THE EEL TRIBE. --The Apodal, or bony-gilled and ventral-finned fish, of which the eel forms the first Linnaean tribe, in their general aspect and manners, approach, in some instances, very nearly to serpents. They have a smooth head and slippery skin, are in general naked, or covered with such small, soft, and distant scales, as are scarcely visible. Their bodies are long and slender, and they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal substances. There are about nine species of them, mostly found in the seas. One of them frequents our fresh waters, and three of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores. 

STEWED EELS. 

I. 

250. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock, No. 104, 1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or Madeira, 3tablespoonfuls of cream; thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon-juice totaste. 

_Mode_. --Wash and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 3 incheslong; pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan; pour over thestock, add the onion stuck with cloves, the lemon-peel, and the wine. Stew gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and lift them carefully on adish, which keep hot. Strain the gravy, stir to the cream sufficientflour to thicken; mix altogether, boil for 2 minutes, and add thecayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the eels and serve. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

 THE COMMON EEL. --This fish is known frequently to quit its native element, and to set off on a wandering expedition in the night, or just about the close of clay, over the meadows, in search of snails and other prey. It also, sometimes, betakes itself to isolated ponds, apparently for no other pleasure than that which may be supposed to be found in a change of habitation. This, of course, accounts for eels being found in waters which were never suspected to contain them. This rambling disposition in the eel has been long known to naturalists, and, from the following lines, it seems to have been known to the ancients:--

 "Thus the mail'd tortoise, and the wand'ring; eel, Oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal. "

II. 

251. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of middling-sized eels, 1 pint of mediumstock, No. 105, 1/4 pint of port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste;1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the juice of 1/2 a lemon. 

_Mode_. --Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly; cut them into pieces3 inches long, and put them into strong salt and water for 1 hour; drythem well with a cloth, and fry them brown. Put the stock on with theheads and tails of the eels, and simmer for 1/2 hour; strain it, and addall the other ingredients. Put in the eels, and stew gently for 1/2hour, when serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

FRIED EELS. 

252. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Wash the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches long, trim andwipe them very dry; dredge with flour, rub them over with egg, and coverwith bread crumbs; fry of a nice brown in hot lard. If the eels aresmall, curl them round, instead of cutting them up. Garnish with friedparsley. 

_Time_. --20 minutes, or rather less. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

_Note_. --Garfish may be dressed like eels, and either broiled or baked. 

 THE PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE EEL. --"Having occasion, " says Dr. Anderson, in the _Bee_, "to be once on a visit to a friend's house on Dee-side, in Aberdeenshire, I frequently delighted to walk by the banks of the river. I, one day, observed something like a black string moving along the edge of the water where it was quite shallow. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that this was a shoal of young eels, so closely joined together as to appear, on a superficial view, on continued body, moving briskly up against the stream. To avoid the retardment they experienced from the force of the current, they kept close along the water's edge the whole of the way, following all the bendings and sinuosities of the river. Where they were embayed, and in still water, the shoal dilated in breadth, so as to be sometimes nearly a foot broad; but when they turned a cape, where the current was strong, they were forced to occupy less space and press close to the shore, struggling very hard till they passed it. This shoal continued to move on, night and day without interruption for several weeks. Their progress might be at the rate of about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch the animals, though they were very active and nimble. They were eels perfectly well formed in every respect, but not exceeding two inches in length. I conceive that the shoal did not contain, on an average, less than from twelve to twenty in breadth; so that the number that passed, on the whole, must have been very great. Whence they came or whither they went, I know not; but the place where I saw this, was six miles from the sea. "

EEL PIE. 

253. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1 shalot;grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of 1/2 a lemon, smallquantity of forcemeat, 1/4 pint of béchamel (see Sauces); puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long, andline the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the eels, andsprinkle them with the parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning, andlemon-juice, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for 1 hour, or rather more;make the béchamel hot, and pour it into the pie. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

COLLARED EEL. 

254. INGREDIENTS. --1 large eel; pepper and salt to taste; 2 blades ofmace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 leaves of sage, and a small bunch of herbs minced very small. 

_Mode_. --Bone the eel and skin it; split it, and sprinkle it over withthe ingredients, taking care that the spices are very finely pounded, and the herbs chopped very small. Roll it up and bind with a broad pieceof tape, and boil it in water, mixed with a little salt and vinegar, till tender. It may either be served whole or cut in slices; and whencold, the eel should be kept in the liquor it was boiled in, but with alittle more vinegar put to it. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

 HAUNTS OF THE EEL. --These are usually in mud, among weeds, under roots or stumps of trees, or in holes in the banks or the bottoms of rivers. Here they often grow to an enormous size, sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They seldom come forth from their hiding-places except in the night; and, in winter, bury themselves deep in the mud, on account of their great susceptibility of cold. 

EELS A LA TARTARE. 

255. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1glass of sherry; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; cut up the carrotand onion, and stir them over the fire for 5 minutes; dredge in a littleflour, add the wine and seasoning, and boil for 1/2 an hour. Skin andwash the eels, cut them into pieces, put them to the other ingredients, and simmer till tender. When they are done, take them out, let them getcold, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them of a nicebrown. Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante over, and serve them hot. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. , exclusive of the saucepiquante. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

 VORACITY OF THE EEL. --We find in a note upon Isaac Walton, by Sir John Hawkins, that he knew of eels, when kept in ponds, frequently destroying ducks. From a canal near his house at Twickenham he himself missed many young ducks; and on draining, in order to clean it, great numbers of large eels were caught in the mud. When some of these were opened, there were found in their stomachs the undigested heads of the quacking tribe which had become their victims. 

EELS EN MATELOTE. 

256. INGREDIENTS. --5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, whenobtainable; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 laurel-leaf, 1/2 pintof port wine, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105; butter and flour tothicken; 2 lbs. Of eels. 

_Mode_. --Rub the stewpan with butter, dredge in a little flour, add theonions cut very small, slightly brown them, and put in all the otheringredients. Wash, and cut up the eels into pieces 3 inches long; putthem in the stewpan, and simmer for 1/2 hour. Make round the dish, aborder of croutons, or pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels in apyramid in the centre, and pour over the sauce. Serve very hot. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d. For this quantity. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

 TENACITY OF LIFE IN THE EEL. --There is no fish so tenacious of life as this. After it is skinned and cut in pieces, the parts will continue to move for a considerable time, and no fish will live so long out of water. 

[Illustration: THE LAMPREY. ]

 THE LAMPREY. --With the Romans, this fish occupied a respectable rank among the piscine tribes, and in Britain it has at various periods stood high in public favour. It was the cause of the death of Henry I. Of England, who ate so much of them, that it brought on an attack of indigestion, which carried him off. It is an inhabitant of the sea, ascending rivers, principally about the end of winter, and, after passing a few months in fresh water, returning again to its oceanic residence. It is most in season in March, April, and May, but is, by some, regarded as an unwholesome food, although looked on by others as a great delicacy. They are dressed as eels. 

FISH AND OYSTER PIE. 

257. INGREDIENTS. --Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock; 2dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs sufficient for thequantity of fish; 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful offinely-chopped parsley. 

_Mode_. --Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in apie-dish, which sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of breadcrumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dishis quite full. You may form a covering either of bread crumbs, whichshould be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of the paste firstlaid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some made meltedbutter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake. 

_Time_. --If made of cooked fish, 1/4 hour; if made of fresh fish andpuff-paste, 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Note_. --A nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish, addinga few oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, and covering with mashedpotatoes; 1/4 hour will bake it. 

FISH CAKE. 

258. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of any cold fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot ofsweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal quantitiesof bread crumbs and cold potatoes, 1/2 teaspoonful of parsley, 1 egg, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the bones of the fish, which latter put, with the head and fins, into a stewpan with the water; add pepper andsalt, the onion and herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about 2 hours; chopthe fish fine, and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold potatoes, adding the parsley and seasoning; make the whole into a cake with thewhite of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with bread crumbs, andfry of a light brown; strain the gravy, pour it over, and stew gentlyfor 1/4 hour, stirring it carefully once or twice. Serve hot, andgarnish with slices of lemon and parsley. 

_Time_--1/2 hour, after the gravy is made. 

BOILED FLOUNDERS. 

259. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient water to cover the flounders, salt in theproportion of 6 oz. To each gallon, a little vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Pat on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders, layin the fish, add salt and vinegar in the above proportions, and when itboils, simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They must not boil fast, orthey will break. Serve with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 3d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from August to November. 

[Illustration: FLOUNDERS. ]

 THE FLOUNDER. --This comes under the tribe usually denominated Flat-fish, and is generally held in the smallest estimation of any among them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and the rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the English coasts it is very abundant, and the London market consumes it in large quantities. It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames flounder is esteemed a delicate fish. 

FRIED FLOUNDERS. 

260. INGREDIENTS. --Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rubthem inside and out with salt, to render them firm; wash and wipe themvery dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs; frythem in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crispedparsley. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size. 

_Average cost_, 3d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from August to November. 

_Sufficient_, 1 for each person. 

GUDGEONS. 

261. INGREDIENTS. --Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity offish; hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills andinside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them intoegg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 minutes. 

_Average cost_. Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from March to July. 

_Sufficient_, 3 for each person. 

[Illustration: THE GUDGEON. ]

 THE GUDGEON. --This is a fresh-water fish, belonging to the carp genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper, served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England. Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested. 

GURNET, or GURNARD. 

262. INGREDIENTS. --1 gurnet, 6 oz. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have readysome boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovysauce, should be served with it. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_. Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March, but in perfection in October. 

_Sufficient_, a middling sized one for 2 persons. 

_Note_. --This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked. 

[Illustration: THE GURNET. ]

 THE GURNET. -"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced gurnet, " says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and is an excellent fish as food. 

BAKED HADDOCKS. 

263. INGREDIENTS. --A nice forcemeat (_see_ Forcemeats), butter to taste, egg and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put ina nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg, sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnishwith parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plainmelted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can beomitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish. 

_Time_. --Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from August to February. 

_Average cost_, from 9d. Upwards. 

_Note_. --Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley. 

[Illustration: THE HADDOCK. ]

 THE HADDOCK. --This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish of this species. 

BOILED HADDOCK. 

264. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. Of saltto each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, andlay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the aboveproportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, shouldthe fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in theirmouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cookthem. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. 

_Time_. --Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less. 

_Average cost_, from 9d. Upwards. 

_Seasonable_ from August to February. 

 WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK. --The haddock seldom grows to any great size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three feet long, when their flesh is coarse. 

DRIED HADDOCK. 

I. 

265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before orover a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just beforesending it to table. 

II. 

266. INGREDIENTS. --1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch ofsavoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper;boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot bymeans of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leavesand herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in thesteam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put themin a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time, but best in winter. 

 THE FINNAN HADDOCK. --This is the common haddock cured and dried, and takes its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few days. 

RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS. 

267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin acrossthe fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nicerelish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreadingit on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing. 

 THE RED HERRING. --_Red_ herrings lie twenty-four hours in the brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are put into barrels for carriage. 

BAKED WHITE HERRINGS. 

268. INGREDIENTS. --12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficientvinegar to fill up the dish. 

_Mode_. --Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them ina pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer, sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar, and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herringsmay be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again. Sprats done in this way are very delicious. 

_Time_. --1/2 an hour. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each. 

TO CHOOSE THE HERRING. --The more scales this fish has, the surer thesign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look;but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for sometime. 

[Illustration: THE HERRING. ]

 THE HERRING. --The herring tribe are found in the greatest abundance in the highest northern latitudes, where they find a quiet retreat, and security from their numerous enemies. Here they multiply beyond expression, and, in shoals, come forth from their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep. In June they are found about Shetland, whence they proceed down to the Orkneys, where they divide, and surround the islands of Great Britain and Ireland. The principal British herring-fisheries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts; and the fishing is always carried on by means of nets, which are usually laid at night; for, if stretched by day, they are supposed to frighten the fish away. The moment the herring is taken out of the water it dies. Hence the origin of the common saying, "dead as a herring. "

KEGEREE. 

269. INGREDIENTS. --Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. Ofbutter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenneto taste. 

_Mode_. --Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the otheringredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied accordingto the amount of fish used. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour after the rice is boiled. 

_Average cost_, 5d. , exclusive of the fish. 

TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 

270. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy andfull of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When theshell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters arethe best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the aboveproportion; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20minutes to 3/4 hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skimwell. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not doneenough, the spawn is not red: this must be obviated by great attention. Hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe offagain. 

_Time_. --Small lobster, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; large ditto, 1/2 to 1/3hour. 

_Average cost_, medium size, 1s. 6d. To 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from March to October. 

TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS. --This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as itought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gentlyraised, will return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thusproving it; for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return;when the fish might be pronounced inferior, which, in reality, may notbe the case. In order to be good, lobsters should be weighty for theirbulk; if light, they will be watery; and those of the medium size, arealways the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very wellfor sauce. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of the shell will be muchimproved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on beingimmediately taken from the pot. 

[Illustration: THE LOBSTER. ]

 THE LOBSTER. --This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain. Some are caught with the hand, but the larger number in pots, which serve all the purposes of a trap, being made of osiers, and baited with garbage. They are shaped like a wire mousetrap; so that when the lobsters once enter them, they cannot get out again. They are fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, and their place marked by a buoy. The fish is very prolific, and deposits of its eggs in the sand, where they are soon hatched. On the coast of Norway, they are very abundant, and it is from there that the English metropolis is mostly supplied. They are rather indigestible, and, as a food, not so nurtritive as they are generally supposed to be. 

HOT LOBSTER. 

271. INGREDIENTS. --1 lobster, 2 oz. Of butter, grated nutmeg; salt, pepper, and pounded mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butterand seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs, and make thewhole mixture into the form of a lobster; pound the spawn, and sprinkleover it. Bake 1/4 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tailand body shell, with the small claws underneath, to resemble a lobster. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

LOBSTER SALAD. 

272. INGREDIENTS. --1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad(whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil andvinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne andsalt to taste; 3 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients shouldbe mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce. 

_Mode_. --Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth. Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightlythrow in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings fromthe body of the lobster; pick the meat from the shell, cut it up intonice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve forgarnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs;chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, andafterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on aglass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then withthe pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, andbeetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches, sothat the colours contrast nicely. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from April to October; may be had all the year, but saladis scarce and expensive in winter. 

_Note_. --A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad. 

 THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER. --Like the others of its tribe, the lobster annually casts its shell. Previously to its throwing off the old one, it appears sick, languid, and restless, but in the course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks some lonely place, where it may lie undisturbed, and escape the horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who have the advantage of still being encased in their mail. 

LOBSTER (a la Mode Francaise). 

273. INGREDIENTS. --1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; breadcrumbs. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small squarepieces; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add thelobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell, which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste; cover itwith bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown beforethe fire, or with a salamander. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER. --In its element, the lobster is able to run with great speed upon its legs, or small claws, and, if alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable distance, "even, " it is said, "with the swiftness of a bird flying. " Fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a wonderful degree of swiftness. When frightened, they will take their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves. 

LOBSTER CURRY (an Entree). 

274. INGREDIENTS. --1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. Butter, 1 tablespoonful ofcurry-powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice squarepieces; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in thecurry-powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in thelobster; stew the whole slowly for 1/2 hour, and stir occasionally; andjust before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled ricewith it, the same as for other curries. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree). 

275. INGREDIENTS. --1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. Fresh butter, 1/2saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and whitepepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar with thebutter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well mixing theingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of the spawn;divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape them likecutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over with egg, andsprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of the small claw inthe top of each; fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drainthem before the fire, on a sieve reversed; arrange them nicely on adish, and pour béchamel in the middle, but not over the cutlets. 

_Time_. --About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made. 

_Average cost_ for this dish, 2s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

 ANCIENT MODE OF COOKING THE LOBSTER. --When this fish was to be served for the table, among the ancients, it was opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked, whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with which the flesh had become impregnated. 

TO DRESS LOBSTERS. 

276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil, which wipe off again; separate the body from the tail, break off thegreat claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat;split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with thebody upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. (_See_ ColouredPlate, H. )

LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree). 

277. INGREDIENTS. --Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel, 6 dropsof anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a smallpiece of bread: cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake of alight colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the meat veryfine, and add the above ingredients; stir it over the fire for 6minutes; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fillwith the mixture, and replace the covers. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER. --It is said that the attachment of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a circumstance celebrated in the following lines:--

 "Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize, And foreign shores and seas unknown despise. Though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel, And force the captive from his native cell, He will, if freed, return with anxious care, Find the known rock, and to his home repair; No novel customs learns in different seas, But wonted food and home-taught manners please. "

POTTED LOBSTER. 

278. INGREDIENTS. --2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg, poundedmace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. Of butter, 3 or 4 bay-leaves. 

_Mode_. --Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut itup. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster asevenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Coverwith butter, and bake for 3/4 hour in a gentle oven. When done, drainthe whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with theseasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and, ifvery highly seasoned, it will keep some time. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Potted lobster may be used cold, or as _fricassee_ with creamsauce. 

 How the Lobster Feeds. --The pincers of the lobster's large claws are furnished with nobs, and those of the other, are always serrated. With the former, it keeps firm hold of the stalks of submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces its food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is called by fishermen, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left, indifferently. 

BAKED MACKEREL. 

279. INGREDIENTS. --4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat(_see_ Forcemeats), 3 oz. Of butter; pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tailsalternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some littlepieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and eitherserve with plain melted butter or a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Note_. --Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings(_see_ No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine. 

 WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL. --The greatest weight of this fish seldom exceeds 2 lbs. , whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and 20 inches. They die almost immediately after they are taken from their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric light. 

BOILED MACKEREL. 

280. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in thekettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring itgradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them ona hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments toboiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it. (_See_ Coloured Plate, F. )

_Time_. --After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allowmore time. 

_Average cost_, from 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

_Note_. --When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pourover parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen. 

BROILED MACKEREL. 

281. INGREDIENTS. --Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil. 

_Mode_. --Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills andinsides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broilit over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, whichwill be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop a little parsley, work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeezeof lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quitemelted, with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce in a tureen. 

_Time_. --Small mackerel 15 minutes. _Average cost_, from 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

[Illustration: THE MACKEREL. ]

 THE MACKEREL. --This is not only one of the most elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have. Death, in some degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does not entirely obliterate them. It visits the shores of Great Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England. 

TO CHOOSE MACKEREL. --In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to agreat extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If ithave a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be redabout the head, it is stale. 

FILLETS OF MACKEREL. 

282. INGREDIENTS. --2 large mackerel, 1 oz. Butter, 1 small bunch ofchopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3tablespoonfuls of béchamel (_see_ Sauces); salt, cayenne, andlemon-juice to taste. 

_Mode_. --Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine, and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in themackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and putthem on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients, give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Note_. --Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs, and fried of a nice brown. Serve with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce and plainmelted butter. 

 THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL. --The voracity of this fish is very great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired. 

PICKLED MACKEREL. 

283. INGREDIENTS. --12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4mackerel. 

_Mode_. --Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in adish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar, peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pourover the fish. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

 MACKEREL GARUM. --This brine, so greatly esteemed by the ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes. When mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and then left to settle for some hours. On the following day, this was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture. 

GREY MULLET. 

284. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water, andgradually brought to a boil; if small, put it in boiling water, saltedin the above proportion. Serve with anchovy sauce and plain meltedbutter. 

_Time_. --According to size, 1/4 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from July to October. 

[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET. ]

 THE GREY MULLET. --This is quite a different fish from the red mullet, is abundant on the sandy coasts of Great Britain, and ascends rivers for miles. On the south coast it is very plentiful, and is considered a fine fish. It improves more than any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds. 

RED MULLET. 

285. INGREDIENTS. --Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour, 1/2teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt totaste. 

_Mode_. --Clean the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, foldin oiled paper, and bake them gently. When done, take the liquor thatflows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour; putin the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve the saucein a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper cases. 

_Time_. --About 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more plentiful in summer. 

_Note_. --Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper, the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt. They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted_butter_, Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled. 

[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET. ]

 THE STRIPED RED MULLET. --This fish was very highly esteemed by the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most extravagant prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. Weight were valued at about £15 each; those of 4 lbs. At £60, and, in the reign of Tiberius, three of them were sold for £209. To witness the changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies, was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid for one of these fishes. It frequents our Cornish and Sussex coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and well flavoured. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

286. INGREDIENTS. --3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. Butter, 1 tablespoonful ofketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of choppedparsley. 

_Mode_. --Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drainthem; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; laythem on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, andparsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER. ]

 THE EDIBLE OYSTER:--This shell-fish is almost universally distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes, and they especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain. The coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Essex and Suffolk. Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat over the beds. As soon as taken from their native beds, they are stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices, through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to flow. This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the same tinge, which increases their value in the market. They do not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks. Oysters are not considered proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old; so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

I. 

287. INGREDIENTS. --Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. Butter, flour, 2tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper andsalt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled butter. 

_Mode_. --Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beardthem, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. Of batter into astewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add thestock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the oystersand seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil. Have readythe scallop-shells buttered; lay in the oysters, and as much of theliquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over whichdrop a little oiled butter. Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, and serve quickly, and very hot. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

II. 

Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in ascallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a fewbread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces ofbutter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficientbread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters shouldnot be seen. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 2d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

288. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. Of butter, flour, 1/3 pintof cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace. 

_Mode_. --Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beardthem, and strain the liquor; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge insufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stirit over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, addthe cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve on a hot dish, andgarnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. A small piece oflemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the creamis added, will be found an improvement. 

_Time_. --Altogether 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

 THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP. --The oyster is described as a bivalve shell-fish, having the valves generally unequal. The hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops hare been classified as one tribe; but they differ very essentially both in their external appearance and their habits. Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to roots of trees on the shore; while the scallops are always detached, and usually lurk in the sand. 

OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree). 

289. INGREDIENTS. --2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. Butter, 3 tablespoonfuls ofcream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut eachone into 3 pieces. Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficientflour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the otheringredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but notboil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No. 277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers. 

_Time_. --2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s. 1d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

 THE OYSTER FISHERY. --The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the bed for the future. After this month, it is felony to carry away the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle. 

TO KEEP OYSTERS. 

290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let themremain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to standfor another 12 hours without water. If left without water everyalternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept init. Never put the same water twice to them. 

OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER. 

291. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; whenliked, a little nutmeg; hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay themon a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix theflour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, andput the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan, put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with asharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. Fried oysters arefrequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbsshould be added to the flour. 

_Time_. --5 or 6 minutes. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

 EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER. --The French assert that the English oysters, which are esteemed the best in Europe, were originally procured from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; but they assign no proof for this. It is a fact, however, that the oysters eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel which then parted the Isle of Thanet from England, and which has since been filled up, and converted into meadows. 

BOILED PERCH. 

292. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Scale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly; layit in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. If the fish is very large, longer time must be allowed. Garnish withparsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce. Perch donot preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any otherway. 

_Time_. --Middling-sized perch, 1/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from September to November. 

_Note_. --Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the samesauces. 

[Illustration: THE PERCH. ]

 THE PERCH. --This is one of the best, as it is one of the most common, of our fresh-water fishes, and is found in nearly all the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through the whole of Europe within the temperate zone. It is extremely voracious, and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious, which is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey. The best season to angle for it is from the beginning of May to the middle of July. Large numbers of this fish are bred in the Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well supplied with running water and with plenty of food; yet they rarely attain a large size. In the Regent's Park they are also very numerous; but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a pound. 

FRIED PERCH. 

293. INGREDIENTS. --Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and coverwith bread crumbs. Have ready some boiling lard; put the fish in, andfry a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from September to November. 

_Note_. --Fry tench in the same way. 

PERCH STEWED WITH WINE. 

294. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt totaste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. 

_Mode_. --Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean themthoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry justto cover them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt, and simmer till tender. When done, take out the fish, strain the liquor, add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, and theanchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced, whenpour over the fish, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from September to November. 

BOILED PIKE. 

295. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water; a littlevinegar. 

_Mode_. --Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth bymeans of a skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in thesalt and vinegar. The time for boiling depends, of course, on the sizeof the fish; but a middling-sized pike will take about 1/2 an hour. Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --According to size, 1/2 to 1 hour. --_Average cost_. Seldombought. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

[Illustration: THE PIKE. ]

 THE PIKE. --This fish is, on account of its voracity, termed the freshwater shark, and is abundant in most of the European lakes, especially those of the northern parts. It grows to an immense size, some attaining to the measure of eight feet, in Lapland and Russia. The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland, vary in the kinds of fish they produce; some affording trout, others pike; and so on. Where these happen to be together, however, the trout soon becomes extinct. "Within a short distance of Castlebar, " says a writer on sports, "there is a small bog-lake called Derreens. Ten years ago it was celebrated for its numerous well-sized trouts. Accidentally pike effected a passage into the lake from the Minola river, and now the trouts are extinct, or, at least, none of them are caught or seen. Previous to the intrusion of the pikes, half a dozen trouts would be killed in an evening in Derreens, whose collective weight often amounted to twenty pounds. " As an eating fish, the pike is in general dry. 

BAKED PIKE. 

296. INGREDIENTS. --1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (_see_Forcemeats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. Butter. 

_Mode_. --Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash, and wipe itthoroughly dry; stuff it with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten the tailin the mouth by means of a skewer; brush it over with egg, sprinkle withbread crumbs, and baste with butter, before putting it in the oven, which must be well heated. When the pike is of a nice brown colour, cover it with buttered paper, as the outside would become too dry. If 2are dressed, a little variety may be made by making one of them greenwith a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs. Serve anchovyor Dutch sauce, and plain melted butter with it. 

_Time_. --According to size, 1 hour, more or less. 

_Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Note_. --Pike _à la génévese_ may be stewed in the same manner as salmon_à la génévese_. 

FRIED PLAICE. 

297. --INGREDIENTS. --Hot lard, or clarified dripping; egg and breadcrumbs. 

_Mode_. --This fish is fried in the same manner as soles. Wash and wipethem thoroughly dry, and let them remain in a cloth until it is time todress them. Brush them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs mixedwith a little flour. Fry of a nice brown in hot dripping or lard, andgarnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. Send them to table withshrimp-sauce and plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, 3d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from May to November. 

_Sufficient_, 4 plaice for 4 persons. 

_Note_. --Plaice may be boiled plain, and served with melted butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon. 

STEWED PLAICE. 

298. INGREDIENTS. --4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, 1/2 oz. Ground ginger, 1pint of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, salt them, andlet them remain 1/4 hour. Slice and fry the onions a light brown; putthem in a stewpan, on the top of which put the fish without washing, andadd the ginger, lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly for 1/2 hour, and donot let the fish boil, or it will break. Take it out, and when theliquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs; simmer till it thickens, whenpour over the fish, and serve. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from May to November. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons; according to size. 

[Illustration: THE PLAICE. ]

 THE PLAICE. --This fish is found both in the Baltic and the Mediterranean, and is also abundant on the coast of England. It keeps well, and, like all ground-fish, is very tenacious of life. Its flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is a low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the poor. The best brought to the London market are called _Dowers plaice_, from their being caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and Folkstone. 

TO BOIL PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS. 

299. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the tail;much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked. Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boilingfor about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; butless time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done bytheir changing colour. Care should be taken that they are notover-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible. 

_Time_. --Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_, prawns, 2s. Per lb. ; shrimps, 6d. Per pint. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

TO DRESS PRAWNS. 

300. Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, and over that lay a smallwhite napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid, andgarnish with plenty of parsley. 

BOILED SALMON. 

301. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of salt to each gallon of water, --sufficientwater to cover the fish. 

_Mode_. --Scale and clean the fish, and be particular that no blood isleft inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water tocover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to aboil, take off all the scum, and let it simmer gently till the fish isdone, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish;but it is especially to be remembered, that it should never beunderdressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remainin the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render itinsipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a fewminutes, keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on ahot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster orshrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish ofdressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish. 

_Time_. --8 minutes to each lb. For large thick salmon; 6 minutes forthin fish. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 3d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from April to August. 

_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb. , or rather less, for each person. 

_Note_. --Cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish; and alittle of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons amost agreeable addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially adapted to be served with salmon. 

TO CHOOSE SALMON. --To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, whichmay readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. Thecircumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standingrule in most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all tobe relied on, as this quality can be easily given them by art. 

SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE. 

302. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. Batter, 1/2 teaspoonfulof chopped parsley, 1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter overit, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoninginto the fish; baste it frequently; when done, take it out and drain fora minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from April to August. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

 THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON. --The instinct with which the salmon revisits its native river, is one of the most curious circumstances in its natural history. As the swallow returns annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to deposit its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M. De Lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail, and found that, for three successive seasons, it returned to the same place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings have been attached by eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a communication existed between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian and Northern Seas, and that the experiment succeeded. 

COLLARED SALMON. 

303. INGREDIENTS. --A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs. , a high seasoning ofsalt, pounded mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves. 

_Mode_. --Split the fish; scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly clean; wipeit, and rub in the seasoning inside and out; roll it up, and bindfirmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (1/3vinegar, in proportion to the water); add the bay-leaves and a goodseasoning of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do not removethe lid. Serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce. For preserving thecollared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and add alittle more vinegar. Pour over when cold. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour, or rather more. 

 HABITAT OF THE SALMON. --The salmon is styled by Walton the "king of fresh-water fish, " and is found distributed over the north of Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamschatka, but is never found in warm latitudes, nor has it ever been caught even so far south as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as in salt waters, depositing its spawn in the former, hundreds of miles from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce this fish into the Australian colonies; and it is believed that the attempt, after many difficulties, which were very skilfully overcome, has been successful. 

CRIMPED SALMON. 

304. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionabletables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick. Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour; have ready some boilingwater, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed; put in the fish, and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather more; should it be very thick, garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the same sauces. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour, more or less, according to size. 

_Note_. --Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the taste andcolour of the fish. 

[Illustration: THE SALMON. ]

 THE SALMON TRIBE. --This is the Abdominal fish, forming the fourth of the orders of Linnaeus. They are distinguished from the other fishes by having two dorsal fins, of which the hindmost is fleshy and without rays. They have teeth both on the tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round and minutely striated scales. 

CURRIED SALMON. 

305. INGREDIENTS. --Any remains of boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong ormedium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. Ofbutter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the onions into small pieces, and fry them of a palebrown in the butter; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and simmergently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the contents; cutthe salmon into small square pieces, carefully take away all skin andbone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; but donot allow it to boil long. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 9d. 

 GROWTH OF THE SALMON. --At the latter end of the year--some as soon as November--salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as they can reach, in order to deposit their spawn, which they do in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies buried till the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it begins to exclude the young, which gradually increase to four or five inches in length, and are then termed smelts or smouts. About the beginning of May, the river seems to be alive with them, and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, comes, and hurries them to the "great deep;" whence, about the middle of June, they commence their return to the river again. By this time they are twelve or sixteen inches long, and progressively increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July, when they have become large enough to be denominated _grilse_. Early in August they become fewer in numbers, but of greater size, haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds. This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the remark of Walton, that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short a time as a gosling becomes a goose. " Recent writers have, however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the salmon. 

SALMON CUTLETS. 

306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt;butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, withtheir ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve withanchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a fewchopped herbs and a little spice. 

_Time_. --5 to 10 minutes. 

SALMON A LA GENEVESE. 

307. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a littleparsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, 1/2 pint of whitestock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful ofessence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in theshalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning; stir them for10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; simmergently for 1/2 hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish, whichstew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked, takeaway all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and putit into another stewpan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour, and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt; lay the salmonon a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve the remainderin a tureen. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

PICKLED SALMON. 

308. INGREDIENTS. --Salmon, 1/2 oz. Of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. Of wholeallspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities ofvinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled. 

_Mode_. --After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with acover to it, as it should be excluded from the air, and take away thebone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10minutes, and let it stand to get cold; pour it over the salmon, and in12 hours this will be fit for the table. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

 TO CURE SALMON. --This process consists in splitting the fish, rubbing it with salt, and then putting it into pickle in tubs provided for the purpose. Here it is kept for about six weeks, when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers of salt. 

POTTED SALMON. 

309. INGREDIENTS. --Salmon; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3bay-leaves, 1/4 lb. Butter. 

_Mode_. --Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth(water would spoil it); cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt;let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish withthe other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain them from thegravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour over it clarifiedbutter. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

 AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON. --The salmon is said to have an aversion to anything red; hence, fishermen engaged in catching it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour. Pontoppidan also says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens to be thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes them. The remedy adopted for this in Norway, is to throw into the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon, when in perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our fish. 

BAKED SEA-BREAM. 

310. INGREDIENTS. --1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, andcayenne; 1/4 lb. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipeaway all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out withsalt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place thebutter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than1/2 an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a greatimprovement. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 an hour. 

_Seasonable_ in summer. 

[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM. ]

_Note_. --This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and servedwith a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine. 

 THE SEA-BREAM. --This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the summer months, but it is not in much esteem. 

 MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE. 

 "When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside covering has retained, will be of good flavour. "

TO DRESS SHAD. 

311. INGREDIENTS. --1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt. 

_Mode_. --Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or threeincisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let itremain in oil for 1/2 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French, and by them is considered excellent. 

_Time_. --Nearly 1 hour. 

_Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from April to June. 

[Illustration: THE SHAD. ]

 THE SHAD. --This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little esteem. It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames. 

POTTED SHRIMPS. 

312. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 1blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with theother ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in thebutter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold, cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to soak in the butter. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 3d. 

BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS. 

313. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stockNo. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg totaste. 

_Mode_. --Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with thestock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gentlyfor 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toastedsippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy. 

_Time_. --3 minutes. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d. 

[Illustration: THE SHRIMP. ]

 THE SHRIMP. --This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is greatly relished in London as a delicacy. It inhabits most of the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially famous for them. 

BOILED SKATE. 

314. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, withsufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let itsimmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and servewith shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce. 

_Time_. --According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. Perlb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to April. 

CRIMPED SKATE. 

315. INGREDIENTS. --1/8 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tieround with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish, and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hotnapkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never beeaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and otherdiseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to April. 

TO CHOOSE SKATE. --This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth, and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, itshould not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimpedfish soon become sour. 

[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE. ]

 THE SKATE. --This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England. The flesh is white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is digested. It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is destitute. It is taken in great abundance during the spring and summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the true skate. 

SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise)

316. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. Ofsalt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch ofparsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to coverthe fish. 

_Mode_. --Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer theskate in them till tender. When it is done, skin it neatly, and pourover it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it, putit on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latterto table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to April. 

_Note_. --Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley andbutter. 

SMALL SKATE FRIED. 

317. INGREDIENTS. --Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt andpepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of1/2 lemon, hot dripping. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegarto cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice, and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour. Then drain themwell, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may beserved either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed toofresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day, but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to April. 

 OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE. --Besides the true skate, there are several other species found in our seas. These are known as the _white_ skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true skate. 

TO BAKE SMELTS. 

318. INGREDIENTS. --12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 2blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange themnicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, andplace little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnishwith fried parsley and cut lemon. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. Per dozen. 

_Seasonable_ from October to May. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

TO CHOOSE SMELTS. --When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, afterdeath, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber. 

 THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT. --This peculiarity in the smelt has been compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and formerly abounded in the Thames. The _Atharine_, or sand smelt, is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish, being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful. 

TO FRY SMELTS. 

319. INGREDIENTS. --Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard. 

_Mode_. --Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than isnecessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them inegg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them intoboiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take offthe light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Drythem before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter. This fish is often used as a garnishing. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 2s. Per dozen. 

_Seasonable_ from October to May. 

[Illustration: THE SMELT. ]

 THE SMELT. --This is a delicate little fish, and is in high esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in November, December, and January. 

BAKED SOLES. 

320. INGREDIENTS. --2 soles, 1/4 lb. Of butter, egg, and bread crumbs, minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt totaste. 

_Mode_. --Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly ina cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed witha little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, whiteside uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each belaid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of theother. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add thewine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it_under_ the fish, and serve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. To 2s. Per pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

TO CHOOSE SOLES. --This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skinis difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good. 

[Illustration: THE SOLE. ]

 THE SOLE. --This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but those of the western shores are much superior in size to those taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. Per pair. Its flesh being firm, white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed. 

BOILED SOLES. 

321. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but donot skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water tocover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to aboil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size ofthe fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnishwith parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain meltedbutter, are usually sent to table with this dish. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole. 

_Average cost_, 1s. To 2s. Per pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_, --1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons. 

SOLE OR COD PIE. 

322. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning totaste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. Offish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickenedwith flour, puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, andbetween each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add thestock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puffpaste, and bake for 1/2 hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour tothicken it; pour in the pie, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 10d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

323. INGREDIENTS. --2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste;the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream. 

_Mode_. --Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to aboil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicatelyclean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer verygently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice. The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this isnot so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of creamis required. 

_Time_. --10 minutes in the cream. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 2s. Per pair. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish. 

 THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS. --This fish was much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the general name of _passeres_, were all equally esteemed, and had generally the same qualities attributed to them. 

FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE. 

324. INGREDIENTS. --2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste;egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from thebone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with whiteof egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in abaking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for1/2 hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon overthem, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 2s. Per pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. 

WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found verydelicious. 

 THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE. --This, as a matter of course, greatly depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the animal feeds. Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish. Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white, or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the coasts, are the best in flavour. 

FRICASSEED SOLES. 

325. INGREDIENTS. --2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonfulof chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little gratedbread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. Butter, 1/2 pintof good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice totaste. 

_Mode_. --Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327, and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole, chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, andseasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; makethis into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with adessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice;lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes;serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the soles. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

 HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT. --The instrument usually employed is a trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches. If, for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are smothered, and sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed, in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net, and as many as possible preserved alive in it. 

FRIED FILLETED SOLES. 

326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be moreeasily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and washthe fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide itinto nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round withtwine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, andcover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish isdesired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as theylook much better than when fried whole. (_See_ Coloured Plate A. )Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, andarranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 2s. Per pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_, --2 large soles for 6 persons. 

FRIED SOLES. 

327. INGREDIENTS. --2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarifieddripping, egg, and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins, wipethem very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time todress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg; dredge thesoles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and cover withbread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty of clarified drippingor lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil is still better)heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden. When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn them carefully, andbrown them on the other: they may be considered ready when a thick smokerises. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on areversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat. Particular attentionshould be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasyfish: this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time, andallowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp, and free fromgreasy moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon andfried parsley, and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain meltedbutter. 

_Time_. --10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 2s. Per pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS. 

328. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. Butter, 1 oz. Salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in afish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bringthem gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, whichwill be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (_See_Sauces. )

_Time_. --After the water boils, 7 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

SPRATS. 

329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can be ascertained bytheir bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by askewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on agridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed withsuet. Serve very hot. 

_Time_, --3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

TO CHOOSE SPRATS. --Choose these from their silvery appearance, as thebrighter they are, so are they the fresher. 

SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER. 

330. INGREDIENTS. --2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; seasoning of salt andpepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a batter made of the aboveingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with friedparsley. 

Sprats may be baked like herrings. (_See_ No. 268. )

DRIED SPRATS. 

331. Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water pouredover them; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be found amuch better way than boiling them. 

[Illustration: THE SPRAT. ]

 THE SPRAT. --This migratory fish, is rarely found longer than four or five inches, and visits the shores of Britain after the herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very abundant, and from 400 to 500 boats are employed in catching them during the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying the London market, they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to farmers for manuring purposes. They enter the Thames about the beginning of November, and leave it in March. At Yarmouth and Gravesend they are cured like red herrings. 

BAKED STURGEON. 

332. INGREDIENTS. --1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 smallbunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 pint ofwhite wine. 

_Mode_, --Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along thebelly without separating it; have ready a large baking-dish, in whichlay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced, and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in smallpieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and bastefrequently; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy. 

_Time_. --Nearly 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

[Illustration: THE STURGEON. ]

 THE STURGEON. --This fish commences the sixth of Linnaean order, and all the species are large, seldom measuring, when full-grown, less than three or four feet in length. Its flesh is reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor Severus, was so highly valued by the ancients, that it was brought to table by servants crowned with coronets, and preceded by a band of music. It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the Mediterranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of the Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It is abundant in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally taken in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is one of those fishes considered as royal property. It is from its _roe_ that _caviare_, a favourite food of the Russians, is prepared. Its flesh is delicate, firm, and white, but is rare in the London market, where it sells for 1s. Or 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

 THE STERLET is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized on account of the delicacy of its flesh. 

ROAST STURGEON. 

333. INGREDIENTS. --Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of asturgeon. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the fish, bone and skin it; make a nice veal stuffing(see Forcemeats), and fill it with the part where the bones came from;roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet ofveal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with goodbrown gravy, or plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Note_. --Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. Thefish is very firm, and requires long boiling. 

 ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS. --By the ancients, the flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the immortals. The poet Martial passes a high eulogium upon it, and assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine Mount. If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people of that country generally entirely abstain from it, and the sovereign of the Celestial Empire confines it to his own kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest favourites. 

MATELOT OF TENCH. 

334. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades ofmace, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot, 2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock No. 105, flour, 1 dozen oysters, thejuice of 1/2 lemon; the number of tench, according to size. 

_Mode_. --Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces, and lay themin a stewpan; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace, and simmer gently for 1/2 hour. Put into another stewpan all theremaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil slowlyfor 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench, and keepstirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it through asieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must be previouslyscalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve. Garnish with croutons. 

_Time_. 3/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from October to June. 

[Illustration: THE TENCH. ]

 THE TENCH. --This fish is generally found in foul and weedy waters, and in such places as are well supplied with rushes. They thrive best in standing waters, and are more numerous in pools and ponds than in rivers. Those taken in the latter, however, are preferable for the table. It does not often exceed four or five pounds in weight, and is in England esteemed as a delicious and wholesome food. As, however, they are sometimes found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid, their flavour, if cooked immediately on being caught, is often very unpleasant; but if they are transferred into clear water, they soon recover from the obnoxious taint. 

TENCH STEWED WITH WINE. 

335. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira orsherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter andflour. 

_Mode_. --Clean and crimp the tench; carefully lay it in a stewpan withthe stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf; let it stew gently for1/2 hour; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain theliquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and stewfor 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a tammy, adda very little cayenne, and pour over the fish. Garnish with balls ofveal forcemeat. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from October to June. 

 A SINGULAR QUALITY IN THE TENCH. --It is said that the tench is possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes, that even the voracious pike spares it on this account. 

 The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain, With ravenous waste devours his fellow train; Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined, The tench he spares, a medicinal kind; For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease, He courts the salutary fish for ease; Close to his scales the kind physician glides, And sweats a healing balsam from his sides. 

 In our estimation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be attributed to a less poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving disposition of the tench, it is enabled to keep itself so completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour. 

STEWED TROUT. 

336. INGREDIENTS. --2 middling-sized trout, 1/2 onion cut in thin slices, a little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a littlethyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glassof port wine, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in astewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmergently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite done. Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it over asharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it over the trout, and serve. 

_Time_. --According to size, 1/2 hour or more. 

_Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Seasonable_ from May to September, and fatter from the middle to theend of August than at any other time. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in butteredpaper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Génévese isextremely delicate; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307. 

[Illustration: THE TROUT. ]

 THE TROUT. --This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its delicacy, was little regarded by the ancients. Although it abounded in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its colours. About the end of September, they quit the deep water to which they had retired during the hot weather, for the purpose of spawning. This they always do on a gravelly bottom, or where gravel and sand are mixed among stones, towards the end or by the sides of streams. At this period they become black about the head and body, and become soft and unwholesome. They are never good when they are large with roe; but there are in all trout rivers some barren female fish, which continue good throughout the winter. In the common trout, the stomach is uncommonly strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a portion of the food of the animal; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones in order to assist in comminuting it. 

BOILED TURBOT. 

337. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_--Choose a middling-sized turbot; for they are invariably the mostvaluable: if very large, the meat will be tough and thready. Three orfour hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to take offthe slime; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an incisiondown the middle of the back, to prevent the skin of the belly fromcracking. Rub it over with lemon, and be particular not to cut off thefins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient coldwater to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it graduallycome to a boil, and skim very carefully; keep it gently simmering, andon no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have a very unsightlyappearance. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it is done;then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub alittle lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, andgarnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. (See ColouredPlate E. )

_Time_. --After the water boils, about 1/2 hour for a large turbot;middling size, about 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, --large turbot, from 10s. To 12s. ; middling size, from12s. To 15s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_, 1 middling-sized turbot for 8 persons. 

_Note_. --An amusing anecdote is related, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop, who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot, and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediatelycommenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. Thisdignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages. 

GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH. 

338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids withflat tops, and on the top of each pyramid, put rather more than atablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this, sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour. Arrange these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brownalternately. 

TO CHOOSE TURBOT. --See that it is thick, and of a yellowish white; forif of a bluish tint, it is not good. 

[Illustration: THE TURBOT. ]

 THE TURBOT. --This is the most esteemed of all our flat fish. The northern parts of the English coast, and some places off the coast of Holland, produce turbot in great abundance, and in greater excellence than any other parts of the world. The London market is chiefly supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it nearly 90, 000 a year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and gelatinous, and is the better for being kept a day or two previous to cooking it. In many parts of the country, turbot and halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other. They are, however, perfectly distinct; the upper parts of the former being marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles, while those of the other are quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft scales, which firmly adhere to the body. 

[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE. ]

 FISH-KETTLES are made in an oblong form, and have two handles, with a movable bottom, pierced full of holes, on which the fish is laid, and on which it may be lifted from the water, by means of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom. This is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish, as it would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan. In the list of Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price of two of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as will be seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary fish-kettles, it being less deep, whilst it is wider, and more pointed at the sides; thus exactly answering to the shape of the fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be obtained from the same manufacturers, and its price is £1. 

BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT. 

339. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left fromthe preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs; cayenne and salt to taste;minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide itinto square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinklewith bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Laythe fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste with. Bakefor 1/4 hour, and do not forget to keep them well moistened with thebutter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobstersauce; make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drainedfrom the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will befound much nicer than putting the fish again in water. 

FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'ITALIENNE. 

340. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (SeeSauces. )

_Mode_. --Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all skin, which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce hot, layin the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish withcroutons. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

 THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT. --As this luxurious people compared soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks, so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant. In the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such dimensions as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove to be erected, and a new dish to be made for it, in order that it might be cooked and served whole: not even imperial Rome could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous animal. Where it was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the "Eternal City. "

TURBOT A LA CREME. 

341. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace totaste. 

_Mode_. --Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot, which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less wastewhen trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally aspossible; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the creamand seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil. Lay inthe fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croutons or a pasteborder. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and theabove mixture may be served in a _vol-au-vent_. 

TURBOT AU GRATIN. 

342. INGREDIENTS. --Remains of cold turbot, béchamel (_see_ Sauces), bread crumbs, butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeingit from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten with 4or 5 tablespoonfuls of béchamel. Let it get thoroughly hot, but do notallow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with finely-gratedbread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the top. Brown it inthe oven, or with a salamander. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED WHITING. 

343. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of salt to each gallon of water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the fish, but do not skin them; lay them in afish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in theabove proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently forabout 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish themon a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovyor caper sauce, and plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_ for small whitings, 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. 

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. 

To CHOOSE WHITING. --Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silveryhue of its appearance. 

[Illustration: THE WHITING. ]

 The Whiting. --This fish forms a light, tender, and delicate food, easy of digestion. It appears in our seas in the spring, within three miles of the shores, where it arrives in large shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by line, and is usually between ten and twelve inches long, and seldom exceeding a pound and a half in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank, however, it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to seven or eight pounds. When less than six inches long, it is not allowed to be caught. 

BROILED WHITING. 

344. INGREDIENTS. --Salt and water, flour. 

_Mode_. --Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly, andlet them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour them well, and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce, orplain melted butter (_see_ Sauces). Be careful to preserve the liver, asby some it is considered very delicate. 

_Time_. --5 minutes for a small whiting. _Average cost_, 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. 

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. 

Buckhorn. --Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, and inwinter taken to the markets, and sold under the singular name of"Buckhorn. "

FRIED WHITING. 

345. INGREDIENTS. --Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard orclarified dripping. 

_Mode_. --Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish freefrom all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg andbread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by meansof a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a littleflour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarifieddripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, garnished withfried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D. ) Send them to table with shrimpsauce and plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. 

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. 

_Note_. --Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as friedfilleted soles (_see_ Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings arefrequently used for garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod, etc. 

WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING. 

346. INGREDIENTS. --4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable; pepper, salt, and grated nutmegto taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over it, strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash thewhitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving the livers. Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning, adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more minced parsley andmushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the whiting, moisten withthe wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there should be toomuch sauce, reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes, and pour under the fish. Serve with a cut lemon, and no other sauce. 

_Time_. ---20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. 

_Sufficient_. --This quantity for 4 or 5 persons. 

WHITING AUX FINE HERBES. 

347. INGREDIENTS. -1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine; butter. 

_Mode_. --Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths; and laythem in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them over thefish, and place small pieces of butter over; cover with another dish, and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Turn thefish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour or 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March. 

_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person. 

 THE WHITING POUT, AND POLLACK. --About the mouth of the Thames, and generally all round the English coasts, as well as in the northern seas, the pout is plentiful. It bears a striking resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent fish. --The _pollack_ is also taken all round our coasts, and likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting; indeed, it is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish; its flesh being considered by many equally delicate. 

TO DRESS WHITEBAIT. 

348. INGREDIENTS. --A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt. 

_Mode_. --This fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought, unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in acolander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put 2 goodhandfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them lightly in thecloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluousflour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, andlet them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they are done, theymust he taken out, and laid before the fire for a minute or two on asieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat. Dish themon a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the centre, and sprinklea little salt over the whole. 

_Time_. --3 minutes. 

_Seasonable _from April to August. 

[Illustration: WHITEBAIT. ]

 WHITEBAIT. --This highly-esteemed little fish appears in innumerable multitudes in the river Thames, near Greenwich and Blackwall, during the month of July, when it forms, served with lemon and brown bread and butter, a tempting dish to vast numbers of Londoners, who flock to the various taverns of these places, in order to gratify their appetites. The fish has been supposed be the fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, or the bleak. Mr. Yarrell, however, maintains that it is a species in itself, distinct from every other fish. When fried with flour, it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have had a custom, for many years, of having a "whitebait dinner" just before the close of the session. It is invariably the precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and the repast is provided by the proprietor of the "Trafalgar, " Greenwich. 

FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS. 

349. INGREDIENTS. --2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs, 4blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puffpaste. 

_Mode_. --Clean and bone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut theminto pieces 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole. Putthe bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it off, putit to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels in apie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley, andhard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in withpuff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour or rather more. The oven should berather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor, whichpour into the pie. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow. 

FISH SCALLOP. 

I. 

350. INGREDIENTS. --Remains of cold fish of any sort, 1/2 pint of cream, 1/2 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoonful of made mustard, ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above quantitiesare for 1/2 lb. Of fish when picked); bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking thefish from the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot, occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When done, put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity ofbread crumbs; place small pieces of butter on the top, set in a Dutchoven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 10d. 

II. 

351. INGREDIENTS. --Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of poundedmace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, pepperand salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter. 

_Mode_. --Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with milkand the egg; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish orscallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brownbefore the fire; when quite hot, serve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 4d. 

WATER SOUCHY. 

352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the bestfish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with abunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to make itbrackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in thiswater. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready somefinely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about oneinch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or deep dish, strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley and roots. Servewith brown bread and butter. 

353. SUPPLY OF FISH TO THE LONDON MARKET. --From Mr. Mayhew's work on"London Labour and the London Poor, " and other sources, we are enabledto give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to theLondon market:--

 Description of Fish. Number of Weight of Fish Fish in lbs WET FISH. 

 Salmon and Salmon-Trout(29, 000 boxes, 14 fish per box) 406, 000 3, 480, 000 Turbot, from 8 to 16 lbs. 800, 000 5, 600, 000 Live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. Each 400, 000 4, 000, 000 Soles, averaging 1/4 lbs. Each 97, 520, 000 26, 880, 000 Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. Each 1, 220, 000 3, 366, 000 Whiting, averaging 6 oz. Each 17, 920, 000 6, 720, 000 Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. Each 2, 470, 000 4, 940, 000 Plaice, averaging 1 lb. Each 33, 600, 000 33, 600, 000 Mackerel, averaging 1 lb ach 23, 520, 000 23, 520, 000 Fresh herrings (250, 000 barrels, 700 fish per barrel) 175, 000, 000 42, 000, 000 Ditto in bulk 1, 050, 000, 000 252, 000, 000 Sprats -- 4, 000, 000 Eels (from Holland principally) England and Ireland 9, 797, 760 1, 632, 960 Flounders 259, 200 48, 200 Dabs 270, 000 48, 750

 DRY FISH. 

 Barrelled Cod(15, 000 barrels, 40 fish per barrel) 750, 000 4, 200, 000 Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs each 1, 600, 000 8, 000, 000 Smoked Haddock(65, 000 barrels, 300 fish per barrel) 19, 500, 000 10, 920, 000 Bloaters, 265, 000 baskets(150 fish per basket) 147, 000, 000 10, 600, 000 Red Herrings, 100, 000 barrels(500 fish per barrel) 50, 000, 000 14, 000, 000 Dried Sprats, 9, 600 large bundles (30 fish per bundle) 288, 000 9, 600

 SHELL FISH. 

 Oysters 495, 896, 000 Lobsters, averaging 1 lb each 1, 200, 000 1, 200, 000 Crabs, averaging 1 lb each 600, 000 600, 000 Shrimps, 324 to a pint 498, 428, 648 Whelks, 227 to a half-bushel 4, 943, 200 Mussels, 1000 to ditto 50, 400, 000 Cockles, 2000 to ditto 67, 392, 000 Periwinkles, 4000 to ditto 304, 000, 000

The whole of the above may be, in round numbers, reckoned to amount tothe enormous number of 3, 000, 000, 000 fish, with a weight of 300, 000tons. 

ADDENDUM AND ANECDOTE. 

It will be seen, from the number and variety of the recipes which wehave been enabled to give under the head of FISH, that there exists inthe salt ocean, and fresh-water rivers, an abundance of aliment, whichthe present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce tothe table in the most agreeable forms, and oftentimes at a very moderatecost. 

Less nutritious as a food than the flesh of animals, more succulent thanvegetables, fish may be termed a middle dish, suited to all temperamentsand constitutions; and one which those who are recovering from illnessmay partake of with safety and advantage. 

As to which is the best fish, there has been much discussion. The oldLatin proverb, however, _de gustibus non disputandum_, and the moremodern Spanish one, _sobre los gustos no hai disputa_, declare, withequal force, that where _taste_ is concerned, no decision can be arrivedat. Each person's palate may be differently affected--pleased ordispleased; and there is no standard by which to judge why a red mullet, a sole, or a turbot, should be better or worse than a salmon, trout, pike, or a tiny tench. 

Fish, as we have explained, is less nourishing than meat; for it islighter in weight, size for size, and contains no ozmazome (_see_ No. 100). Shell-fish, oysters particularly, furnish but little nutriment;and this is the reason why so many of the latter can be eaten withoutinjury to the system. 

In Brillat Savarin's [Footnote: Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer andjudge of considerable eminence and great talents, and wrote, under theabove title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive information, enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote. ] clever and amusingvolume, "The Physiology of Taste, " he says, that towards the end of theeighteenth century it was a most common thing for a well-arrangedentertainment in Paris to commence with oysters, and that many guestswere not contented without swallowing twelve dozen. Being anxious toknow the weight of this advanced-guard, he ascertained that a dozenoysters, fluid included, weighed 4 ounces, --thus, the twelve dozen wouldweigh about 3 lbs. ; and there can be no doubt, that the same persons whomade no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters, would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same weightof chicken or mutton. An anecdote, perfectly well authenticated, isnarrated of a French gentleman (M. Laperte), residing at Versailles, whowas extravagantly fond of oysters, declaring he never had enough. Savarin resolved to procure him the satisfaction, and gave him aninvitation to dinner, which was duly accepted. The guest arrived, andhis host kept company with him in swallowing the delicious bivalves upto the tenth dozen, when, exhausted, he gave up, and let M. Laperte goon alone. This gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an hour, and would doubtless have got through more, but the person who openedthem is described as not being very skilful. In the interim Savarin wasidle, and at length, tired with his painful state of inaction, he saidto Laperte, whilst the latter was still in full career, "Mon cher, youwill not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant; let us dine. " Theydined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as if he hadfasted for a week. 

FISH CARVING. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH. 

In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as, if these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver shouldbe acquainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels; and to giveeach guest an equal share of these _titbits_ should be his maxim. Steelknives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as theseare liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. Where silverfish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought, good electro-platedones answer very well, and are inexpensive. The prices set down for themby Messrs. Slack, of the Strand, are from a guinea upwards. 

COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. 

(For recipe, see No. 232; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate C. )

[Illustration]

First run the knife along the centre of the side of the fish, namely, from _d_ to _b_, down to the bone; then carve it in unbroken slicesdownwards from _d_ to _e_, or upwards from _d_ to _c_, as shown in theengraving. The carver should ask the guests if they would like a portionof the roe and liver. 

_Note_. --Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders arethe firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which linesthe fish beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also thegelatinous parts about the head and neck. 

SALMON. 

(For recipe, see No. 301; and for mode of dressing, Coloured Plate B. )

[Illustration]

First run the knife quite down to the bone, along the side of the fish, from _a_ to _b_, and also from _c_ to _d_. Then help the thick partlengthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from _a_ to _b_; andthe thin part breadthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from_e_ to _f_, as shown in the engraving. A slice of the thick part shouldalways be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly, where lies the fat of the fish. 

_Note_. --Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicingthe thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that we havestated; and thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of itsappearance is destroyed. 

BOILED OR FRIED SOLE. 

(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327. )

The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone andall, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. Amoderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices; namely, thehead, middle, and tail. The guests should be asked which of these theyprefer. A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is verylarge, the upper side may be raised from the bone, and then divided intopieces; and the under side afterwards served in the same way. 

In helping FILLETED SOLES, one fillet is given to each person. (For modeof serving, see Coloured Plate A. )

TURBOT. 

(For recipe, see No. 337; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate E. )

First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quitethrough to the bone, from _a_ to _b_, and then cut handsome and regularslices in the direction of the lines downwards, from _c_ to _e_, andupwards from _c_ to _d_, as shown in the engraving. When the carver hasremoved all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backboneshould be raised, put on one side of the dish, and the under side helpedas the upper. 

A BRILL and JOHN DORY are carved in the same manner as a Turbot. 

[Illustration]

_Note_. --The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slicesin a turbot; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well asa little of the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and shouldbe placed on each plate. 

WHITING, &c. 

Whiting, pike, haddock, and other fish, when of a sufficiently largesize, may be carved in the same manner as salmon. When small, they maybe cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces, amiddling-sized whiting serving for two slices. 

_Note_. --The THICK part of the EEL is reckoned the best; and this holdsgood of all flat fish. 

The TAIL of the LOBSTER is the prime part, and next to that the CLAWS. 

[Illustration: FISH CARVERS. ]

[Illustration]

SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

CHAPTER IX. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

354. AN ANECDOTE IS TOLD of the prince de Soubise, who, intending togive an entertainment, asked for the bill of fare. His _chef_ came, presenting a list adorned with vignettes, and the first article ofwhich, that met the prince's eye, was "fifty hams. " "Bertrand, " said theprince, "I think you must be extravagant; Fifty hams! do you intend tofeast my whole regiment?" "No, Prince, there will be but one on thetable, and the surplus I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures, &c. " "Bertrand, you are robbing me: this item will not do. ""Monseigneur, " said the _artiste_, "you do not appreciate me. Give methe order, and I will put those fifty hams in a crystal flask no longerthan my thumb. " The prince smiled, and the hams were passed. This wasall very well for the prince de Soubise; but as we do not write forprinces and nobles alone, but that our British sisters may make the bestdishes out of the least expensive ingredients, we will also pass thehams, and give a few general directions concerning Sauces, &c. 

355. THE PREPARATION AND APPEARANCE OF SAUCES AND GRAVIES are of thehighest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of thecook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the variousviands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order thatthey may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, asdoes a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer. 

356. THE GENERAL BASIS OF MOST GRAVIES and some sauces is the same stockas that used for soups (_see_ Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107); and, by theemployment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a littlespice, a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce orketchup, very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. Amilt (either of a bullock or sheep), the shank-end of mutton that hasalready been dressed, and the necks and feet of poultry, may all beadvantageously used for gravy, where much is not required. It may, then, be established as a rule, that there exists no necessity for goodgravies to be expensive, and that there is no occasion, as many wouldhave the world believe, to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat, inorder to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy. 

357. BROWN SAUCES, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick aswhite sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, that all those which areintended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of asufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints overwhich they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c. , brownedflour may be properly employed. 

358. SAUCES SHOULD POSSESS A DECIDED CHARACTER; and whether sharp orsweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinctmanner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them toopiquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. 

359. GRAVIES AND SAUCES SHOULD BE SENT TO TABLE VERY HOT; and there isall the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from theirbeing usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to coolquickly than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which creamor eggs form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as theseingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil; as, inthat case, they would instantly curdle. 

360. ALTHOUGH PICKLES MAY BE PURCHASED at shops at as low a rate as theycan usually be made for at home, or perhaps even for less, yet we wouldadvise all housewives, who have sufficient time and convenience, toprepare their own. The only general rules, perhaps, worth statinghere, --as in the recipes all necessary details will be explained, are, that the vegetables and fruits used should be sound, and not over ripe, and that the very best vinegar should be employed. 

361. FOR FORCEMEATS, SPECIAL ATTENTION IS NECESSARY. The points whichcooks should, in this branch of cookery, more particularly observe, arethe thorough chopping of the suet, the complete mincing of the herbs, the careful grating of the bread-crumbs, and the perfect mixing of thewhole. These are the three principal ingredients of forcemeats, and theycan scarcely be cut too small, as nothing like a lump or fibre should beanywhere perceptible. To conclude, the flavour of no one spice or herbshould be permitted to predominate. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER X. 

SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR FISH. 

362. INGREDIENTS. --4 anchovies, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of meltedbutter, cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Bone the anchovies, and pound them in a mortar to a paste, with1 oz. Of butter. Make the melted butter hot, stir in the poundedanchovies and cayenne; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes; and if liked, add asqueeze of lemon-juice. A more general and expeditious way of makingthis sauce is to stir in 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to 1/2pint of melted butter, and to add seasoning to taste. Boil the whole upfor 1 minute, and serve hot. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d. For 1/2 pint. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles, &c. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER (_see_ No. 227). 

[Illustration: THE CAPISCUM. ]

 CAYENNE. --This is the most acrid and stimulating spice with which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from several varieties of the capsicum annual East-India plants, of which there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able to grow in the open air: these are the Guinea, the Cherry, and the Bell pepper. All the pods of these are extremely pungent to the taste, and in the green state are used by us as a pickle. When ripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a condiment. The best of this, however, is made in the West Indies, from what is called the _Bird_ pepper, on account of hens and turkeys being extremely partial to it. It is imported ready for use. Of the capiscum species of plants there are five; but the principal are, --1. _Capsicum annuum_, the common long-podded capsicum, which is cultivated in our gardens, and of which there are two varieties, one with red, and another with yellow fruit. 2. _Capsicum baccatum_, or bird pepper, which rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet high, with its berries growing at the division of the branches: this is small, oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as we have said, the best cayenne is made. 3. _Capsicum grossum_, the bell-pepper: the fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit for pickling. 

APPLE SAUCE FOR GEESE, PORK, &c. 

363. INGREDIENTS. --6 good-sized apples, sifted sugar to taste, a pieceof butter the size of a walnut, water. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and throw them into coldwater to preserve their whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, withsufficient water to moisten them, and boil till soft enough to pulp. Beat them up, adding sugar to taste, and a small piece of butter Thisquantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen. 

_Time_. --According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks. 

BROWN APPLE SAUCE. 

364. INGREDIENTS. --6 good-sized apples, 1/2 pint of brown gravy, cayenneto taste. 

_Mode_. Put the gravy in a stewpan, and add the apples, after havingpared, cored, and quartered them. Let them simmer gently till tender;beat them to a pulp, and season with cayenne. This sauce is preferred bymany to the preceding. 

_Time_. --According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. 

ASPARAGUS SAUCE. 

365. INGREDIENTS. --1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. Of freshbutter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large lump ofsugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of sauce tournée. 

_Mode_. --Break the asparagus in the tender part, wash well, and put theminto boiling salt and water to render them green. When they are tender, take them out, and put them into cold water; drain them on a cloth tillall moisture is absorbed from them. Put the butter in a stewpan, withthe parsley and onions; lay in the asparagus, and fry the whole over asharp fire for 5 minutes. Add salt, the sugar and sauce tournée, andsimmer for another 5 minutes. Rub all through a tammy, and if not a verygood colour, use a little spinach green. This sauce should be rathersweet. 

_Time_. --Altogether 40 minutes. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d. 

ASPIC, or ORNAMENTAL SAVOURY JELLY. 

366. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slicesof ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savouryherbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste of saltand whole white pepper; 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the veal andcow-heel into small pieces, and lay them on the ham; add the poultrytrimmings, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water, and let the wholesimmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully taking away all scum that mayrise to the surface; strain through a fine sieve, and pour into anearthen pan to get cold. Have ready a clean stewpan, put in the jelly, and be particular to leave the sediment behind, or it will not be clear. Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and pepper, to clarify; keepstirring over the fire, till the whole becomes very white; then draw itto the side, and let it stand till clear. When this is the case, strainit through a cloth or jelly-bag, and use it for moulding poultry, etc. (See Explanation of French Terms, page 44. ) Tarragon vinegar may beadded to give an additional flavour. 

_Time_. --Altogether 4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. 

 WHITE PEPPER. --This is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the black pepper, from which it is manufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the hands till the coats come off. The best berries only will bear this operation; hence the superior qualities of white pepper fetch a higher price than those of the other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red colour. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, they are spread out in the sun, where they dry and become black and shrivelled, when they are ready for being prepared for the market. 

BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE. 

367. INGREDIENTS. --1 small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, 1/2 bay-leaf, 1small faggot of savoury herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, whenobtainable; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful ofarrowroot. 

_Mode_. --Put the stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, cloves, bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a seasoning of salt, but no pepper, as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, and should be avoided. When it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour of the herbs, etc. , strain it, and boil it up quickly again, until it is nearlyhalf-reduced. Now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream, and let itsimmer very gently for 5 minutes over a slow fire; pour to it thereduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10 minutes, if thesauce be thick. If, on the contrary, it be too thin, it must be stirredover a sharp fire till it thickens. This is the foundation of many kindsof sauces, especially white sauces. Always make it thick, as you caneasily thin it with cream, milk, or white stock. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. Per pint. 

[Illustration: THE CLOVE. ]

 THE CLOVE. --The clove-tree is a native of the Molucca Islands, particularly Amboyna, and attains the height of a laurel-tree, and no verdure is ever seen under it. From the extremities of the branches quantities of flowers grow, first white; then they become green, and next red and hard, when they have arrived at their clove state. When they become dry, they assume a yellowish hue, which subsequently changes into a dark brown. As an aromatic, the clove is highly stimulating, and yields an abundance of oil. There are several varieties of the clove; the best is called the _royal clove_, which is scarce, and which is blacker and smaller than the other kinds. It is a curious fact, that the flowers, when fully developed, are quite inodorous, and that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic. The form is that of a nail, having a globular head, formed of the four petals of the corolla, and four leaves of the calyx not expanded, with a nearly cylindrical germen, scarcely an inch in length, situate below. 

BECHAMEL MAIGRE, or WITHOUT MEAT. 

368. INGREDIENTS. --2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom trimmings, asmall bunch of parsley, 1 oz. Of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1pint of milk, salt, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put in a stewpan the milk, and 1/2 pint of water, with theonions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Let these simmer gently for20 minutes. In the mean time, rub on a plate 1 oz. Of flour and butter;put it to the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up; then place itby the side of the fire, and continue stirring until it is perfectlysmooth. Now strain it through a sieve into a basin, after which put itback in the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. Beat up the yolks of theeggs with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this to the sauce, keep stirring it over the fire, but do not let it boil, lest it curdle. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d. Per pint. 

This is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a badcolour. 

PICKLED BEETROOT. 

369. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz. Of wholepepper, 2 oz. Of allspice to each gallon of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Wash the beets free from dirt, and be very careful not to prickthe outside skin, or they would lose their beautiful colour. Put theminto boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when about three partsdone, which will be in 1-1/2 hour, take them out and let them cool. Boilthe vinegar with pepper and allspice, in the above proportion, for tenminutes, and when cold, pour it on the beets, which must be peeled andcut into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Cover with bladder to exclude theair, and in a week they will be fit for use. 

_Average cost_, 3s. Per gallon. 

[Illustration: BLACK PEPPER. ]

 BLACK PEPPER. --This well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a species of climbing vine, and is a native of the East Indies, and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and others in the same latitude. It was formerly confined to these countries, but it has now been introduced to Cayenne. It is generally employed as a condiment; but it should never be forgotten, that, even in small quantities, it produces detrimental effects on inflammatory constitutions. Dr. Paris, in his work on Diet, says, "Foreign spices were not intended by Nature for the inhabitants of temperate climes; they are heating, and highly stimulant. I am, however, not anxious to give more weight to this objection than it deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the passive inhabitant of any particular region. He ranges over every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the productions of every climate. Nature is very kind in favouring the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender endemic diseases, are, in general, congenial to the growth of plants that operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the East for tea, there is no reason why we should not go to the West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be cautious in their use; they may afford temporary benefit, at the expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said, that the best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should always be suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for their natural want of sapidity. " The quality of pepper is known by rubbing it between the hands: that which withstands this operation is good, that which is reduced to powder by it is bad. The quantity of pepper imported into Europe is very great. 

BENTON SAUCE (to serve with Hot or Cold Roast Beef). 

370. INGREDIENTS. --1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonfulof made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls ofvinegar. 

_Mode_. --Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with theother ingredients, which must be all well blended together; serve in atureen. With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute forpickles. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d. 

BREAD SAUCE (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c. ). 

I. 

371. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 3/4 of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk tillperfectly tender. Break the bread, which should be stale, into smallpieces, carefully picking out any hard outside pieces; put it in a veryclean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remainfor an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, add aseasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. Of butter; givethe whole one boil, and serve. To enrich this sauce, a small quantity ofcream may be added just before sending it to table. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1-3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls, or brace ofpartridges. 

[Illustration: MACE. ]

 MACE. --This is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg. Its general qualities are the same as those of the nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste. It is of an oleaginous nature, is yellowish in its hue, and is used largely as a condiment. In "Beeton's Dictionary" we find that the four largest of the Banda Islands produce 150, 000 lbs. Of it annually, which, with nutmegs, are their principal articles of export. 

II. 

372. INGREDIENTS. --Giblets of poultry, 3/4 lb. Of the crumb of a staleloaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &c. , into astewpan; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than 1 pintof water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor over thebread, which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces. Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire;then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain, and the wholeis nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring ituntil it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls of good meltedbutter or cream, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. 

BROWNING FOR GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

373. The browning for soups (_see_ No. 108) answers equally well forsauces and gravies, when it is absolutely necessary to colour them inthis manner; but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup, wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colour sauce, it is farpreferable. As, however, in cooking, so much depends on appearance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use theartificial means (No. 108). When no browning is at hand, and you wish toheighten the colour of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an ironspoon over a sharp fire; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into thesauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in toomuch, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour. 

BEURRE NOIR, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce). 

374. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire, andwhen it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add the vinegar and seasoning. Let the whole simmer for a minute or two, when it is ready to serve. This is a very good sauce for skate. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

CLARIFIED BUTTER. 

375. Put the butter in a basin before the fire, and when it melts, stirit round once or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain it unlessabsolutely necessary, as it causes so much waste. Pour it gently offinto a clean dry jar, carefully leaving all sediment behind. Let itcool, and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder, or piece ofwash-leather, tied over. If the butter is salt, it may be washed beforemelting, when it is to be used for sweet dishes. 

MELTED BUTTER. 

I. 

376. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, 1wineglassful of water, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the butter up into small pieces, put it in a saucepan, dredge over the flour, and add the water and a seasoning of salt; stirit _one way_ constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted andthoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If thebutter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour; keep stirring it, but do not allow it to boil. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 4d. 

II. 

_(More Economical. )_

377. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt totaste, 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, which put into asaucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning of salt, keep stirring _oneway_ till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth; let thewhole boil for a minute or two, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 minutes to simmer. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2d. 

MELTED BUTTER (the French Sauce Blanche). 

378. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, salt to taste, 1/2 gill of water, 1/2 spoonful of white vinegar, a verylittle grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully rubbingdown with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear. Put it in asaucepan with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken on the fire, but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste of the flour. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. 

_Average cost_, 5d. For this quantity. 

[Illustration: THE NUTMEG. ]

 NUTMEG. --This is a native of the Moluccas, and was long kept from being spread in other places by the monopolizing spirit of the Dutch, who endeavoured to keep it wholly to themselves by eradicating it from every other island. We find it stated in "Beeton's Dictionary of Universal Information, " under the article "Banda Islands, " that the four largest are appropriated to the cultivation of nutmegs, of which about 500, 000 lbs. Are annually produced. The plant, through the enterprise of the British, has now found its way into Penang and Bencooleu, where it flourishes and produces well. It has also been tried to be naturalized in the West Indies, and it bears fruit all the year round. There are two kinds of nutmeg, --one wild, and long and oval-shaped, the other cultivated, and nearly round. The best is firm and hard, and has a strong aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste. It ought to be used with caution by those who are of paralytic or apoplectic habits. 

THICKENED BUTTER. 

379. --INGREDIENTS. --1/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of 2eggs, a little lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Make the butter quite hot, and be careful not to colour it. Well whisk the yolks of the eggs, pour them to the butter, beating themall the while. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but do not let it boil;add a squeeze of lemon-juice. 

MELTED BUTTER MADE WITH MILK. 

380. INGREDIENTS. --1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. Butter, 1/3 pint ofmilk, a few grains of salt. 

_Mode_. --Mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate, put itinto a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring it _one way_over a sharp fire; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it isready to serve. This is a very good foundation for onion, lobster, oroyster sauce: using milk instead of water makes it look so much whiterand more delicate. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3d. 

CAMP VINEGAR. 

381. INGREDIENTS. --1 head of garlic, 1/2 oz. Cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls ofsoy, 2 ditto walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal to colour. 

_Mode_. --Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients, into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for a month, when strain itoff quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottleswell sealed, to exclude the air. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d. 

CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON. 

382. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoonfulsof capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoonful of their liquor. 

_Mode_. --Chop the capers twice or thrice, and add them, with theirliquor, to 1/2 pint of melted butter, made very smoothly; keep stirringwell; let the sauce just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Picklednasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and by many are eaten in preferenceto capers. They make an excellent sauce. 

_Time_. --2 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a leg of mutton. 

CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. 

383. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessertspoonfulsof capers, 1 dessertspoonful of their liquor, a small piece of glaze, ifat hand (this may be dispensed with), 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, ditto ofpepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence. 

_Mode_. --Cut the capers across once or twice, but do not chop them fine;put them in a saucepan with 1/2 pint of good melted butter, and add allthe other ingredients. Keep stirring the whole until it just simmers, when it is ready to serve. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 5d. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 slices of salmon. 

[Illustration: THE CAPER. ]

 CAPERS. --These are the unopened buds of a low trailing shrub, which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece, as well as in northern Africa: the plant, however, has come to be cultivated in the south of Europe. After being pickled in vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France. The best are from Toulon. 

A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE. 

384. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoonfulsof cut parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour; cut, butdo not chop it fine. Add it to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter, with salt and vinegar in the above proportions. Boil up and serve. 

_Time_. --2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 3d. 

PICKLED CAPSICUMS. 

385. INGREDIENTS. --Vinegar, 1/4 oz. Of pounded mace, and 1/4 oz. Ofgrated nutmeg, to each quart; brine. 

_Mode_. --Gather the pods with the stalks on, before they turn red; slitthem down the side with a small-pointed knife, and remove the seedsonly; put them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing it every morning;then take them out, lay them on a cloth, with another one over them, until they are perfectly free from moisture. Boil sufficient vinegar tocover them, with mace and nutmeg in the above proportions; put the podsin a jar, pour over the vinegar when cold, and exclude them from the airby means of a wet bladder tied over. 

CAYENNE VINEGAR, or ESSENCE OF CAYENNE. 

386. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 oz. Of cayenne pepper, 1/2 pint of strong spirit, or 1 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Put the vinegar, or spirit, into a bottle, with the aboveproportion of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, when strain off andbottle for use. This is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces, butmust be used very sparingly. 

CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, &c. 

387. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 2blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs; thickening of butter andflour, or arrowroot, 1/2 pint of cream, lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Boil the celery in salt and water, until tender, and cut itinto pieces 2 inches long. Put the stock into a stewpan with the maceand herbs, and let it simmer for 1/2 hour to extract their flavour. Thenstrain the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter kneadedwith flour, or, what is still better, with arrowroot; just beforeserving, put in the cream, boil it up and squeeze in a littlelemon-juice. If necessary, add a seasoning of salt and white pepper. 

_Time_. --25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled turkey. 

This sauce may be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock, andflavouring it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce. 

[Illustration: ARROWROOT. ]

 ARROWROOT. --This nutritious fecula is obtained from the roots of a plant which is cultivated in both the East and West Indies. When the roots are about a year old, they are dug up, and, after being well washed, are beaten to a pulp, which is afterwards, by means of water, separated from the fibrous part. After being passed through a sieve, once more washed, and then suffered to settle, the sediment is dried in the sun, when it has become arrowroot. The best is obtained from the West Indies, but a large quantity of what is sold in London is adulterated with potato-starch. As a means of knowing arrowroot when it is good, it may be as well to state, that the genuine article, when formed into a jelly, will remain firm for three or four days, whilst the adulterated will become as thin as milk in the course of twelve hours. 

CELERY SAUCE (a More Simple Recipe). 

388. INGREDIENTS. --4 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of melted butter, madewith milk (No. 380), 1 blade of pounded mace; salt and white pepper totaste. 

_Mode_. --Wash the celery, boil it in salt and water till tender, and cutit into pieces 2 inches long; make 1/2 pint melted butter by recipe No. 380; put in the celery, pounded mace, and seasoning; simmer for threeminutes, when the sauce will be ready to serve. 

_Time_. --25 minutes to boil the celery. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a boiled fowl. 

CELERY VINEGAR. 

389. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 oz. Of celery-seed, 1 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar; boil the vinegar, and when cold, pour it to the seed; let it infuse for a fortnight, whenstrain and bottle off for use. This is frequently used in salads. 

CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR FOWLS OR TURKEY. 

390. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of white stock, 2strips of lemon-peel, cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of cream or milk. 

_Mode_. --Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts, and put them intoboiling water for a few minutes; take off the thin inside peel, and putthem into a saucepan, with the white stock and lemon-peel, and let themsimmer for 1-1/2 hour, or until the chestnuts are quite tender. Rub thewhole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; add seasoning and thecream; let it just simmer, but not boil, and keep stirring all the time. Serve very hot; and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, a verysmall quantity of thickening may be required: that, of course, the cookwill determine. 

_Time_. --Altogether nearly two hours. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a turkey. 

BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE. 

391. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 2lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce (_see_ Sauces). 

_Mode_. --Prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe, by scaldingand peeling them; put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar, andsimmer them till tender. When done, add Spanish sauce in the aboveproportion, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce ratherliquid, as it is liable to thicken. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to simmer the chestnuts. _Average cost_, 8d. 

BENGAL RECIPE FOR MAKING MANGO CHETNEY. 

392. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lbs. Of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. Of salt, 1/4 lb. Of garlic, 1/4 lb. Of onions, 3/4 lb. Of powdered ginger, 1/4 lb. Ofdried chilies, 3/4 lb. Of mustard-seed, 3/4 lb. Of stoned raisins, 2bottles of best vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples. 

_Mode_. --The sugar must be made into syrup; the garlic, onions, andginger be finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed be washed in coldvinegar, and dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, cored, and sliced, and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar. When all this is done, and the apples are quite cold, put them into a large pan, and graduallymix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, including the remaininghalf-bottle of vinegar. It must be well stirred until the whole isthoroughly blended, and then put into bottles for use. Tie a piece ofwet bladder over the mouths of the bottles, after they are well corked. This chetney is very superior to any which can be bought, and one trialwill prove it to be delicious. 

_Note_. --This recipe was given by a native to an English lady, who hadlong been a resident in India, and who, since her return to her nativecountry, has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for theexcellence of this Eastern relish. 

[Illustration: GARLIC. ]

 GARLIC. --The smell of this plant is generally considered offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the whole of the alliaceous tribe. In 1548 it was introduced to England from the shores of the Mediterranean, where it is abundant, and in Sicily it grows naturally. It was in greater repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves, although it is still used as a seasoning herb. On the continent, especially in Italy, it is much used, and the French consider it an essential in many made dishes. 

CHILI VINEGAR. 

393. INGREDIENTS. --50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Pound or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them in thevinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be foundan agreeable relish to fish, as many people cannot eat it without theaddition of an acid and cayenne pepper. 

CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE FOR MEAT OR GAME. 

394. INGREDIENTS. -1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey'ssauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded whitesugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayennepepper, ditto of salt. 

_Mode_. --Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and heat the saucegradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan ofboiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, andwill be found excellent. 

CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES. 

395. Consommé is made precisely in the same manner as stock No. 107, and, for ordinary purposes, will be found quite good enough. When, however, a stronger stock is desired, either put in half the quantity ofwater, or double that of the meat. This is a very good foundation forall white sauces. 

CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (equal to Lobster Sauce). 

396. INGREDIENTS. --1 crab; salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; 1/2pint of melted butter made with milk (_see_ No. 380). 

_Mode_. --Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from theshell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make 1/2 pint of meltedbutter by recipe No. 380, put in the fish and seasoning; let itgradually warm through, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should not boil. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH OR WHITE DISHES. 

397. INGREDIENTS. --1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. Of butter, 1 teaspoonful offlour, salt and cayenne to taste; when liked, a small quantity ofpounded mace or lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter in a very clean saucepan, dredge in the flour, and keep shaking round till the butter is melted. Add the seasoning andcream, and stir the whole till it boils; let it just simmer for 5minutes, when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste, to giveit a flavour. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to simmer. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 7d. 

This sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE. 

398. INGREDIENTS. --3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. Of butter, 6 tablespoonfulsof brown gravy. 

_Mode_. --Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and take out the seeds; cutthem into small pieces; put them in a cloth, and rub them well, to takeout the water which hangs about them. Put the butter in a saucepan, addthe cucumbers, and shake them over a sharp fire until they are of a goodcolour. Then pour over it the gravy, mix this with the cucumbers, andsimmer gently for 10 minutes, when it will be ready to serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS. 

399. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of whole pepper, 1 oz. Of bruised ginger;sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt over them, andlet them remain for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well for 6 hours, put them into a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep them in awarm place. In a short time, boil up the vinegar again, add pepper andginger in the above proportion, and instantly cover them up. Tie themdown with bladder, and in a few days they will be fit for use. 

[Illustration: LONG PEPPER. ]

 LONG PEPPER. --This is the produce of a different plant from that which produces the black, it consisting of the half-ripe flower-heads of what naturalists call _Piper longum_ and _chaba_. It is the growth, however, of the same countries; indeed, all the spices are the produce of tropical climates only. Originally, the most valuable of these were found in the Spice Islands, or Moluccas, of the Indian Ocean, and were highly prized by the nations of antiquity. The Romans indulged in them to a most extravagant degree. The long pepper is less aromatic than the black, but its oil is more pungent. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE. 

400. INGREDIENTS. --3 or four cucumbers, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling them andtaking out the seeds. Put them in a stewpan with the white stock andseasoning; simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender, which will be inabout 1/4 hour. Then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; stir them tothe sauce, but do not allow it to boil, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very nice Addition to Salads). 

401. INGREDIENTS. --10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1 quart ofvinegar, 2 onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfulsof pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar orwide-mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, andadd them, with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand4 or 5 days, boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through apiece of muslin, and store it away in small bottles well sealed. Thisvinegar is a very nice addition to gravies, hashes, &e. , as well as agreat improvement to salads, or to eat with cold meat. 

GERMAN METHOD OF KEEPING CUCUMBERS FOR WINTER USE. 

402. INGREDIENTS. --Cucumbers, salt. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the cucumbers (as for the table), sprinkle wellwith salt, and let them remain for 24 hours; strain off the liquor, packin jars, a thick layer of cucumbers and salt alternately; tie downclosely, and, when wanted for use, take out the quantity required. Nowwash them well in fresh water, and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar, and oil. 

[Illustration: THE CUCUMBER. ]

 THE CUCUMBER. --Though the melon is far superior in point of flavour to this fruit, yet it is allied to the cucumber, which is known to naturalists as _Cucumia sativus_. The modern Egyptians, as did their forefathers, still eat it, and others of its class. Cucumbers were observed, too, by Bishop Heber, beyond the Ganges, in India; and Burckhardt noticed them in Palestine. (See No. 127. )

AN EXCELLENT WAY OF PRESERVING CUCUMBERS. 

403. INGREDIENTS. --Salt and water; 1 lb. Of lump sugar, the rind of 1lemon, 1 oz. Of ginger, cucumbers. 

_Mode_. --Choose the greenest cucumbers, and those that are most freefrom seeds; put them in strong salt and water, with a cabbage-leaf tokeep them down; tie a paper over them, and put them in a warm place tillthey are yellow; then wash them and set them over the fire in freshwater, with a very little salt, and another cabbage-leaf over them;cover very closely, but take care they do not boil. If they are not afine green, change the water again, cover them as before, and make themhot. When they are a good colour, take them off the fire and let themcool; cut them in quarters, take out the seeds and pulp, and put theminto cold water. Let them remain for 2 days, changing the water twiceeach day, to draw out the salt. Put the sugar, with 1/4 pint of water, in a saucepan over the fire; remove the scum as it rises, and add thelemon-peel and ginger with the outside scraped off; when the syrup istolerably thick, take it off the fire, and when _cold_, wipe thecucumbers _dry_, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in 2 or 3 days for3 weeks; strengthen it if required, and let it be quite cold before thecucumbers are put in. Great attention must be paid to the directions inthe commencement of this recipe, as, if these are not properly carriedout, the result will be far from satisfactory. 

_Seasonable_. --This recipe should be used in June, July, or August. 

[Illustration: SALT-MINE AT NORTHWICH. ]

 COMMON SALT. --By this we mean salt used for cooking purposes, which is found in great abundance both on land and in the waters of the ocean. Sea or salt water, as it is often called, contains, it has been discovered, about three per cent, of salt on an average. Solid rocks of salt are also found in various parts of the world, and the county of Chester contains many of these mines, and it is from there that much of our salt comes. Some springs are so highly impregnated with salt, as to have received the name of "brine" springs, and are supposed to have become so by passing through the salt rocks below ground, and thus dissolving a portion of this mineral substance. We here give an engraving of a salt-mine at Northwich, Cheshire, where both salt-mines and brine-springs are exceedingly productive, and are believed to have been wrought so far back as during the occupation of Britain by the Romans. 

CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS OR TARTS. 

404. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1tablespoonful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk in a very clean saucepan, and let it boil. Beatthe eggs, stir to them the milk and pounded sugar, and put the mixtureinto a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirringwell until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate a littlenutmeg over the top. This sauce may be made very much nicer by usingcream instead of milk; but the above recipe will be found quite goodenough for ordinary purposes. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding. 

DUTCH SAUCE FOR FISH. 

405. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. Of butter, 4tablespoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1/2 lemon;salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into astew-pan; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. When itis sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however, it happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add thelemon-juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain, and, by many, is considered far preferable. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

Note. --This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get quitecold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excellentsalads may be made of hard eggs, or the remains of salt fish flakednicely from the bone, by pouring over a little of the above mixture whenhot, and allowing it to cool. 

[Illustration: THE LEMON. ]

 THE LEMON. --This fruit is a native of Asia, and is mentioned by Virgil as an antidote to poison. It is hardier than the orange, and, as one of the citron tribe, was brought into Europe by the Arabians. The lemon was first cultivated in England in the beginning of the 17th century, and is now often to be found in our green-houses. The kind commonly sold, however, is imported from Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from St. Helena; but those from Spain are esteemed the best. Its juice is now an essential for culinary purposes; but as an antiscorbutic its value is still greater. This juice, which is called _citric acid_, may be preserved in bottles for a considerable time, by covering it with a thin stratum of oil. _Shrub_ is made from it with rum and sugar. 

GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLLANDAISE VERTE. 

406. INGREDIENTS. --6 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, seasoning totaste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the juiceof 1/2 a lemon. 

_Mode_. --Put the Béchamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and bringit to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in amortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer, whenadd it to the sauce. A moment before serving, put in the lemon-juice, but not before; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and itsappearance be thus spoiled. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

 BÉCHAMEL SAUCE--This sauce takes its name from a Monsieur Béchamel, a rich French financier, who, according to Borne authorities, invented it; whilst others affirm he only patronized it. Be this as it may, it is one of the most pleasant sauces which come to table, and should be most carefully and intelligently prepared. It is frequently used, as in the above recipe, as a principal ingredient and basis for other sauces. 

TO PICKLE EGGS. 

407. INGREDIENTS. --16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. Of Black pepper, 1/2 oz. Of Jamaica pepper, 1/2 oz. Of ginger. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip them into cold water, and take off the shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper and ginger, into a stewpan, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs ina jar, pour over them the vinegar, &c. , boiling hot, and, when cold, tiethem down with bladder to exclude the air. This pickle will be ready foruse in a month. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made about Easter, as at this time eggsare plentiful and cheap. A store of pickled eggs will be found veryuseful and ornamental in serving with many first and second coursedishes. 

[Illustration: GINGER. ]

 The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as _Zingiber officinale_, is a native, of the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like the lily of the valley, but its height is about three feet. In Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading about the end of the year. The fleshy creeping roots, which form the ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug when the stalks are entirely withered. This operation is usually performed in January and February; and when the roots are taken out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately washed, and afterwards very carefully dried. Ginger is generally considered as less pungent and heating to the system than might he expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is frequently used, with considerable effect, as an anti-spasmodic and carminative. 

EGG BALLS FOR SOUPS AND MADE DISHES. 

408. INGREDIENTS. --8 eggs, a little flour; seasoning to taste of salt. 

_Mode_. --Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, take theyolks and pound them in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the other 2 eggs;add them, with a little flour and salt, to those pounded; mix all welltogether, and roll into balls. Boil them before they are put into thesoup or other dish they may be intended for. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8d. 

_Sufficient_, 2 dozen balls for 1 tureen of soup. 

EGG SAUCE FOR SALT FISH. 

409. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; whenliked, a very little lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs until quite hard, which will be in about 20minutes, and put them into cold water for 1/2 hour. Strip off theshells, chop the eggs into small pieces, not, however, too fine. Makethe melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376, and, when boiling, stir in the eggs, and serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be added atpleasure. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to boil the eggs. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_. --This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. Of fish. 

_Note_. --When a thicker sauce is required, use one or two more eggs tothe same quantity of melted butter. 

EPICUREAN SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, GRAVIES, OR FISH. 

410. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 pint of walnut ketchup, 1/4 pint of mushroomditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine;1/4 oz. Of white pepper, 2 oz. Of shalots, 1/4 oz. Of cayenne, 1/4 oz. Of cloves, 3/4 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, and let itremain for a fortnight in a warm place, occasionally shaking up thecontents. Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be found anagreeable addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d. 

[Illustration: SHALOT. ]

 SHALOT, OR ESCHALOT. --This plant is supposed to have been introduced to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing wild in the vicinity of Ascalon. It is a bulbous root, and when full grown, its leaves wither in July. They ought to be taken up in the autumn, and when dried in the house, will keep till spring. It is called by old authors the "barren onion, " and is used in sauces and pickles, soups and made dishes, and as an accompaniment to chops and steaks. 

ESPAGNOLE, OR BROWN SPANISH SAUCE. 

411. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. Of veal, 1-1/2 pint ofwhite stock, No. 107; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 or 3sprigs of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade ofmace, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, and put theminto a stewpan. Moisten these with 1/2 pint of the stock No. 107, andsimmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-colouredglaze, when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it. Add the remainderof the stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, and onions, and simmervery gently for 1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle of fat, andwhen required for use, thicken with butter and flour, or with a littleroux. Add the wine, and, if necessary, a seasoning of cayenne; when itwill be ready to serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 2s. Per pint. 

_Note_. --The wine in this sauce may be omitted, and an onion sliced andfried of a nice brown substituted for it. This sauce or gravy is usedfor many dishes, and with most people is a general favourite. 

FENNEL SAUCE FOR MACKEREL. 

412. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, rather more than1 tablespoonful of chopped fennel. 

_Mode_. --Make the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376; chopthe fennel rather small, carefully cleansing it from any grit or dirt, and put it to the butter when this is on the point of boiling. Simmerfor a minute or two, and serve in a tureen. 

_Time_. --2 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel. 

[Illustration: FENNEL. ]

 FENNEL. --This elegantly-growing plant, of which the Latin name is _Anethum foeniculum_, grows best in chalky soils, where, indeed, it is often found wild. It is very generally cultivated in gardens, and has much improved on its original form. Various dishes are frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful leaves, and these are sometimes boiled in soups, although it is more usually confined, in English cookery, to the mackerel sauce as here given. 

FISH SAUCE. 

413. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnutketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, a few shreds of garlic and shalot, 1quart of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake wellevery day for a fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well sealed, and ina few days it will be fit for use. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 

FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH SOUPS. 

414. INGREDIENTS. --1 middling-sized lobster, 1/2 an anchovy, 1 head ofboiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, cayenne, and mace totaste; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, withthe soft parts, in a mortar; add the celery, the yolk of the hard-boiledegg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole isnicely amalgamated. Warm the butter till it is in a liquid state; wellwhisk the eggs, and work these up with the pounded lobster-meat. Makeinto balls of about an inch in diameter, and fry of a nice pale brown. 

_Sufficient_, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 tureen of soup. 

FORCEMEAT FOR COLD SAVOURY PIES. 

415. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of veal, 1 lb. Of fat bacon; salt, cayenne, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same ofchopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoonfulof minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them in a mortar withthe other ingredients mentioned above. Pound well, and bind with 1 or 2eggs which have been previously beaten and strained. Work the whole welltogether, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. If the pie is not tobe eaten immediately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these would preventit from keeping. Mushrooms or truffles may be added. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 small pies. 

[Illustration: MARJORAM. ]

 MARJORAM. --Although there are several species of marjoram, that which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb, they have an agreeable aromatic flavour. The winter sweet marjoram used for the same purposes, is a native of Greece, and the pot-marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are favourite ingredients in soups, stuffings, &c. 

FORCEMEAT FOR PIKE, CARP, HADDOCK, AND VARIOUS KINDS OF FISH. 

416. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of fresh butter, 1 oz. Of suet, 1 oz. Of fatbacon, 1 small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley; alittle onion, when liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg, and cayenneto taste; 4 oz. Of bread crumbs, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing themvery finely; beat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the whole verysmoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat, and will be found a great improvement. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized haddock or pike. 

FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE, &c. 

417. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of ham or lean bacon, 1/4 lb. Of suet, the rindof half a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful ofminced sweet herbs; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; 6 oz. Ofbread crumbs, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and herbs, taking particular care that all be very finely minced; add a seasoningto taste, of salt, cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly togetherwith the bread crumbs, before wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs, work these up with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will beready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice brown, inboiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for 1/2 hour in a moderateoven. As we have stated before, no one flavour should predominategreatly, and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to cut with aknife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat, it isadvisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg;but for ordinary cooking, mincing very finely answers the purpose. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for a turkey, a moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare. 

_Note_. --In forcemeat for HARE, the liver of the animal is sometimesadded. Boil for 5 minutes, mince it very small, and mix it with theother ingredients. If it should be in an unsound state, it must be on noaccount made use of. 

[Illustration: BASIL. ]

 SWEET HERBS. --Those most usually employed for purposes of cooking, such as the flavouring of soups, sauces, forcemeats, &c. , are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory, and basil. Other sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes of medicine and perfumery: they are most grateful both to the organs of taste and smelling; and to the aroma derived from them is due, in a great measure, the sweet and exhilarating fragrance of our "flowery meads. " In town, sweet herbs have to be procured at the greengrocers' or herbalists', whilst, in the country, the garden should furnish all that are wanted, the cook taking great care to have some dried in the autumn for her use throughout the winter months. 

FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE. 

418. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of mincedsavoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2oz. Of suet; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; 6 tablespoonfulsof cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the otheringredients by recipe No. 416, and blend the whole thoroughly together. Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir itover the fire till it thickens, when put it into the fish, which shouldhave previously been cut open, and sew it up. 

_Time_. --4 or 6 minutes to thicken. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized pike. 

FRENCH FORCEMEAT. 

419. It will be well to state, in the beginning of this recipe, thatFrench forcemeat, or quenelles, consist of the blending of threeseparate processes; namely, panada, udder, and whatever meat you intendusing. 

PANADA. 

420. INGREDIENTS. --The crumb of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls of whitestock, No. 107, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay-leaf, a littleminced parsley, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few mushrooms(when obtainable), butter, the yolks of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about 1/2 hour, thentake it out, and squeeze so as to press the milk from it; put the soakedbread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock, and set iton one side; then put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. Of butter, a sliceof lean ham cut small, with a bay-leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, &c. , in the above proportions, and fry them gently over a slow fire. Whendone, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white stock, boil for 20 minutes, andstrain the whole through a sieve over the panada in the other stewpan. Place it over the fire, keep constantly stirring, to prevent itsburning, and when quite dry, put in a small piece of butter. Let thisagain dry up by stirring over the fire; then add the yolks of 2 eggs, mix well, put the panada to cool on a clean plate, and use it whenrequired. Panada should always be well flavoured, as the forcemeatreceives no taste from any of the other ingredients used in itspreparation. 

Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeats. 

421. Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; letit stew gently till quite done, when take it out to cool. Trim all theupper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar, tillit can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes through thestrainer is one of the three ingredients of which French forcemeats aregenerally composed; but many cooks substitute butter for this, being aless troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation. 

[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR. ]

 PESTLE AND MORTAR. --No cookery can be perfectly performed without the aid of the useful instruments shown in the engraving. For pounding things sufficiently fine, they are invaluable, and the use of them will save a good deal of time, besides increasing the excellence of the preparations. They are made of iron, and, in that material, can be bought cheap; but as these are not available, for all purposes, we should recommend, as more economical in the end, those made of Wedgwood, although these are considerably more expensive than the former. 

Veal Quenelles. 

422. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of veal, panada (No. 420), andcalf's udder (No. 421), 2 eggs; seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, andpounded mace, or grated nutmeg; a little flour. 

_Mode_. --Take the fleshy part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till allthe meat is separated from the sinews, and allow about 1/2 lb. For anentrée. Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar till reduced to a paste;then roll it into a ball; make another of panada (No. 420), the samesize, and another of udder (No. 421), taking care that these three ballsbe of the same _size_. It is to be remembered, that equality of _size_, and not of weight, is here necessary. When the three ingredients areproperly prepared, pound them altogether in a mortar for some time; forthe more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moistenwith the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding aseasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blendedtogether, mould it into balls, or whatever shape is intended, roll themin flour, and poach in boiling water, to which a little salt should havebeen added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk ofanother egg, but omit the white, which only makes them hollow and puffyinside. In the preparation of this recipe, it would be well to bear inmind that the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned, and mustbe made hard or soft according to the dishes they are intended for. Forbrown or white ragoûts they should be firm, and when the quenelles areused very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in theirpreparation. Their flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant, grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, parsley, &c. 

_Time_, --About 1/4 hour to poach in boiling water. 

_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb. Of veal or other meat, with other ingredients inproportion, for 1 entrée. 

_Note_. --The French are noted for their skill in making forcemeats; oneof the principal causes of their superiority in this respect being, thatthey pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Any onewith the slightest pretensions to refined cookery, must, in thisparticular, implicitly follow the example of our friends across theChannel. 

FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP. 

(_See No_. 189. )

423. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCEMEATS. --Take a pound and a half of leanveal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin slices; scrape with aknife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it10 minutes, or until in a purée; pass it through a wire sieve (use theremainder in stock); then take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, whichskin, shred, and chop very fine; put it in a mortar and pound it; thenadd 6 oz. Of panada (that is, bread soaked in milk and boiled tillnearly dry) with the suet; pound them well together, and add the veal;season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that ofnutmeg; work all well together; then add four eggs by degrees, continually pounding the contents of the mortar. When well mixed, take asmall piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it isdelicate, firm, and of a good flavour, it is ready for use. 

FRIED BREAD CRUMBS. 

424. Cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a cool ovenovernight, and when thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them down into finecrumbs. Put some lard, or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan; bringit to the boiling-point, throw in the crumbs, and fry them very quickly. Directly they are done, lift them out with a slice, and drain thembefore the fire from all greasy moisture. When quite crisp, they areready for use. The fat they are fried in should be clear, and the crumbsshould not have the slightest appearance or taste of having been, in theleast degree, burnt. 

FRIED SIPPETS OF BREAD (for Garnishing many Dishes). 

425. Cut the bread into thin slices, and stamp them out in whatevershape you like, --rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. Fry them in the samemanner as the bread crumbs, in clear boiling lard, or clarifieddripping, and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the fire. Whenvariety is desired, fry some of a pale colour, and others of a darkerhue. 

FRIED BREAD FOR BORDERS. 

426. Proceed as above, by frying some slices of bread cut in anyfanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side of the sippet into thebeaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on theedge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the border is completed, arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately. 

GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c. 

427. INGREDIENTS. --1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs, including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. Of butter, 1 glass of sherry, 1-1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, thejuice of half a lemon. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them intoa stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add thebutter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until theonion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and stew slowly for1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickeningof butter and flour, put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire untilperfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-juice, give one boil, when itwill be ready for table. 

_Time_. --Altogether 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d per pint. 

_Sufficient_, half this quantity for two slices of salmon. 

[Illustration: SAGE. ]

 SAGE. --This was originally a native of the south of Europe, but it has long been cultivated in the English garden. There are several kinds of it, known as the green, the red, the small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. In cookery, its principal use is for stuffings and sauces, for which purpose the red is the most agreeable, and the green the next. The others are used for medical purposes. 

PICKLED GHERKINS. 

428. INGREDIENTS. --Salt and water, 1 oz. Of bruised ginger, 1/2 oz. Ofwhole black pepper, 1/4 oz. Of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades ofmace, a little horseradish. This proportion of pepper, spices, &c. , for1 quart of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Let the gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 or 4 days, whentake them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put them into a stone jar. Boilsufficient vinegar to cover them, with spices and pepper, &c. , in theabove proportion, for 10 minutes; pour it, quite boiling, over thegherkins, cover the jar with vine-leaves, and put over them a plate, setting them near the fire, where they must remain all night. Next daydrain off the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it hot over them. Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the whole remain till quite cold. Now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air, and in a month ortwo, they will be fit for use. 

_Time_. --4 days. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. 

[Illustration: GHERKINS. ]

 GHERKINS. --Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the only way in which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them, as by the recipe here given. Not having arrived at maturity, they have not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers, and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites. 

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL. 

429. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls ofBéchamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. Offresh butter; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender; strain them, and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the Béchamel or gravy, with the butter and seasoning; add the pulp from the gooseberries, mixall well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugaradded to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as thesaccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. 

_Time_. --Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a large dish of mackerel. 

_Seasonable_ from May to July. 

[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY. ]

 THE GOOSEBERRY. --This useful and wholesome fruit (_Ribes grossularia_) is thought to be indigenous to the British Isles, and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the eastern counties, although, when uncultivated, it is but a very small and inferior berry. The high state of perfection to which it has been here brought, is due to the skill of the English gardeners; for in no other country does it attain the same size and flavour. The humidity of the British climate, however, has doubtless something to do with the result; and it is said that gooseberries produced in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are of a very superior character. Malic and citric acid blended with sugar, produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry; and upon the proper development of these properties depends the success of all cooking operations with which they are connected. 

GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c. 

430. INGREDIENTS. --Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the quantity of meatin each. 

_Mode_. --We may remark at the outset, that unless glaze is wanted invery large quantities, it is seldom made expressly. Either of the stocksmentioned above, boiled down and reduced very considerably, will befound to produce a very good glaze. Put the stock into a stewpan, over anice clear fire; let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, when keepstirring, to prevent its burning. The moment it is sufficiently reduced, and comes to a glaze, turn it out into the glaze-pot, of which we havehere given an engraving. As, however, this is not to be found in everyestablishment, a white earthenware jar would answer the purpose; andthis may be placed in a vessel of boiling water, to melt the glaze whenrequired. It should never be warmed in a saucepan, except on theprinciple of the bain marie, lest it should reduce too much, and becomeblack and bitter. If the glaze is wanted of a pale colour, more vealthan beef should be used in making the stock; and it is as well to omitturnips and celery, as these impart a disagreeable bitter flavour. 

TO GLAZE COLD JOINTS, &c. --Melt the glaze by placing the vessel whichcontains it, into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling water; brush itover the meat with a paste-brush, and if in places it is not quitecovered, repeat the operation. The glaze should not be too dark acolour. (_See_ Coloured Cut of Glazed Ham, P. )

[Illustration: GLAZE-KETTLE. ]

[Illustration: THE BAIN MARIE. ]

 GLAZE-KETTLE. --This is a kettle used for keeping the strong stock boiled down to a jelly, which is known by the name of glaze. It is composed of two tin vessels, as shown in the cut, one of which, the upper, --containing the glaze, is inserted into one of larger diameter and containing boiling water. A brush is put in the small hole at the top of the lid, and is employed for putting the glaze on anything that may require it. 

 THE BAIN MARIE. --So long ago as the time when emperors ruled in Rome, and the yellow Tiber passed through a populous and wealthy city, this utensil was extensively employed; and it is frequently mentioned by that profound culinary chemist of the ancients, Apicius. It is an open kind of vessel (as shown in the engraving and explained in our paragraph No. 87, on the French terms used in modern cookery), filled with boiling or nearly boiling water; and into this water should be put all the stewpans containing those ingredients which it is desired to keep hot. The quantity and quality of the contents of these vessels are not at all affected; and if the hour of dinner is uncertain in any establishment, by reason of the nature of the master's business, nothing is so certain a means of preserving the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain marie. 

GREEN SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE OR DUCKLINGS. 

431. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 pint of sorrel-juice, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 pintof green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. Of freshbutter. 

_Mode_. --Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender;mash them and press them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepanwith the above ingredients; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve veryhot. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 minutes. 

_Note_. --We have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinkingthat some of our readers might sometimes require it; but, at thegenerality of fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served. 

[Illustration: SORREL. ]

 SORREL. --We gather from the pages of Pliny and Apicius, that sorrel was cultivated by the Romans in order to give it more strength and flavour, and that they also partook of it sometimes stewed with mustard, being seasoned with a little oil and vinegar. At the present day, English cookery is not much indebted to this plant (_Rumex Acetosa_), although the French make use of it to a considerable extent. It is found in most parts of Great Britain, and also on the continent, growing wild in the grass meadows, and, in a few gardens, it is cultivated. The acid of sorrel is very _prononcé_, and is what chemists term a binoxalate of potash; that is, a combination of oxalic acid with potash. 

GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES. 

432. Either of the stocks, Nos. 104, 105, or 107, will be found toanswer very well for the basis of many gravies, unless these are wantedvery rich indeed. By the addition of various store sauces, thickeningand flavouring, the stocks here referred to may be converted into verygood gravies. It should be borne in mind, however, that the goodness andstrength of spices, wines, flavourings, &c. , evaporate, and that theylose a great deal of their fragrance, if added to the gravy a long timebefore they are wanted. If this point is attended to, a saving of onehalf the quantity of these ingredients will be effected, as, with longboiling, the flavour almost entirely passes away. The shank-bones ofmutton, previously well soaked, will be found a great assistance inenriching gravies; a kidney or melt, beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c. &c. , answer very well when only a small quantity is wanted, and, as wehave before observed, a good gravy need not necessarily be so veryexpensive; for economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes found assavoury and wholesome as dearer ones. The cook should also remember thatthe fragrance of gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice, orany strong essences, and that they should always be warmed in a _bainmarie_, after they are flavoured, or else in a jar or jug placed in asaucepan full of boiling water. The remains of roast-meat gravy shouldalways be saved; as, when no meat is at hand, a very nice gravy in hastemay be made from it, and when added to hashes, ragoûts, &c. , is a greatimprovement. 

[Illustration: GRAVY-KETTLE. ]

 GRAVY-KETTLE. --This is a utensil which will not be found in every kitchen; but it is a useful one where it is necessary to keep gravies hot for the purpose of pouring over various dishes as they are cooking. It is made of copper, and should, consequently, be heated over the hot plate, if there be one, or a charcoal stove. The price at which it can be purchased is set down by Messrs. Slack at 14s. 

GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT. 

433. INGREDIENTS. --Gravy, salt. 

_Mode_. --Put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under themeat, about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire. When the dish is full, take it away, baste the meat, and pour the gravyinto the dish on which the joint is to be served. 

 SAUCES AND GRAVIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES. --Neither poultry, butcher's meat, nor roast game were eaten dry in the middle ages, any more than fried fish is now. Different sauces, each having its own peculiar flavour, were served with all these dishes, and even with the various _parts_ of each animal. Strange and grotesque sauces, as, for example, "eggs cooked on the spit, " "butter fried and roasted, " were invented by the cooks of those days; but these preparations had hardly any other merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make. 

A QUICKLY-MADE GRAVY. 

434. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of shin of beef, 1/2 onion, 1/4 carrot, 2 or3 sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs, a piece of butter about the sizeof a walnut; cayenne and mace to taste, 3/4 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion andcarrot, and put them into a small saucepan with the butter. Keepstirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour, whenadd the water and the remaining ingredients. Simmer for 1/2 hour, skimwell, strain, and flavour, when it will be ready for use. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d. 

 A HUNDRED DIFFERENT DISHES. --Modern housewives know pretty well how much care, and attention, and foresight are necessary in order to serve well a little dinner for six or eight persons, --a dinner which will give credit to the _ménage_, and satisfaction and pleasure to the guests. A quickly-made gravy, under some circumstances that we have known occur, will be useful to many housekeepers when they have not much time for preparation. But, talking of speed, and time, and preparation, what a combination of all these must have been necessary for the feast at the wedding of Charles VI. Of France. On that occasion, as Froissart the chronicler tells us, the art of cooking, with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces, with gravy, pepper, cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains, gravy soups, milk _potage_, and ragoûts, had a signal triumph. The skilful _chef-de-cuisine_ of the royal household covered the great marble table of the regal palace with no less than a hundred different dishes, prepared in a hundred different ways. 

A GOOD BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, &c. 

435. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of lean beef, 1/2 pint of cold water, 1shalot or small onion, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1/2 a teaspoonfulof arrowroot. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the beef into small pieces, and put it, with the water, into a stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning, and simmer gently for 3hours, taking care that it does not boil fast. A short time before it isrequired, take the arrowroot, and having mixed it with a little coldwater, pour it into the gravy, which keep stirring, adding the Harvey'ssauce, and just letting it boil. Strain off the gravy in a tureen, andserve very hot. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Per pint. 

BROWN GRAVY. 

436. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. Of shin ofbeef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and whole pepperto taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts of water. For thickening, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 oz. Of flour. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a stewpan; set this on the fire, throw inthe onions cut in rings, and fry them a light brown; then add the beefand bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces; season, andpour in a teacupful of water; let it boil for about ten minutes, oruntil it is of a nice brown colour, occasionally stirring the contents. Now fill up with water in the above proportion; let it boil up, whendraw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour;strain, and when cold, take off all the fat. In thickening this gravy, melt 3 oz. Of butter in a stewpan, add 2 oz. Of flour, and stir till ofa light-brown colour; when cold, add it to the strained gravy, and boilit up quickly. This thickening may be made in larger quantities, andkept in a stone jar for use when wanted. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Per pint. 

 CLOVES. --This very agreeable spice is the unexpanded flower-buds of the _Caryophyllus aromaticus_, a handsome, branching tree, a native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the Latin word _clavus_, or the French _clou_, both meaning a nail, and to which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves were but little known to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions them; and he says, vaguely enough, that some were brought to Rome, very similar to grains of pepper, but somewhat longer; that they were only to be found in India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of the nutmeg (_see_ 378), endeavoured, when they gained possession of the Spice Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that the cultivation of the tree might be confined to Amboyna, their chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all trees found elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is rare; but other kinds, nearly equally good, are produced in other parts of the world, and they come to Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also from St. Kitts, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. The clove contains about 20 per cent. Of volatile aromatic oil, to which it owes its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of woody fibre, water, gum, and resin. 

BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT. 

437. INGREDIENTS. --2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. Of butter, 3pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful of goodbeer; salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Slice, flour, and fry the onions and carrots in the butteruntil of a nice light-brown colour; then add the boiling water and theremaining ingredients; let the whole stew gently for about an hour; thenstrain, and when cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it in the samemanner as recipe No. 436, and, if thought necessary, add a few drops ofcolouring No. 108. 

_Time_. --1 hour. Average cost, 2d. Per pint. 

_Note_. --The addition of a small quantity of mushroom ketchup orHarvey's sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy. 

RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, RAGOUTS, &c. 

438. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of shin of beef, 1 large onion or a fewshalots, a little flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 sliceof lean ham or bacon, 1/2 a head of celery (when at hand), 2 pints ofboiling water; salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, dredge themwith flour, and fry of a pale brown, but do not allow them to get black;pour in the boiling water, let it boil up; and skim. Add the remainingingredients, and simmer the whole very gently for 2 hours, or until allthe juices are extracted from the meat; put it by to get cold, when takeoff all the fat. This gravy may be flavoured with ketchup, store sauces, wine, or, in fact, anything that may give additional and suitable relishto the dish it is intended for. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per pint. 

[Illustration: PIMENTO. ]

 ALLSPICE. --This is the popular name given to pimento, or Jamaica pepper, known to naturalists as _Eugenia pimenta_, and belonging to the order of Myrtaceae. It is the berry of a fine tree in the West Indies and South America, which attains a height of from fifteen to twenty feet: the berries are not allowed to ripen, but, being gathered green, are then dried in the sun, and then become black. It is an inexpensive spice, and is considered more mild and innocent than most other spices; consequently, it is much used for domestic purposes, combining a very agreeable variety of flavours. 

GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT FOR FOWLS. 

439. INGREDIENTS. --The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the fowls, 1slice of toasted bread, 1/2 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, salt andpepper to taste, 1/2 pint of water, thickening of butter and flour, 1dessertspoonful of ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean, and cut them andthe neck into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with the bread, onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour the water over themand simmer gently for 1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound it, andstrain the liquor to it. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and aflavouring of mushroom ketchup; boil it up and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. Per pint. 

A CHEAP GRAVY FOR HASHES, &c. 

440. INGREDIENTS. --Bones and trimmings of the cooked joint intended forhashing, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/4teaspoonful of whole allspice, a small faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 headof celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. Of butter, thickening, sufficient boilingwater to cover the bones. 

_Mode_. --Chop the bones in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, withthe trimmings, salt, pepper, spice, herbs, and celery. Cover withboiling water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1-1/2 or 2 hours. Slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown, andmix it gradually with the gravy made from the bones; boil for 1/4 hour, and strain into a basin; now put it back into the stewpan; flavour withwalnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion liquor, or any store sauce thatmay be preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour, kneadedtogether on a plate, and the gravy will be ready for use. After thethickening is added, the gravy should just boil, to take off the rawnessof the flour. 

_Time_. --2 hours, or rather more. 

_Average cost_, 4d. , exclusive of the bones and trimmings. 

JUGGED GRAVY (Excellent). 

441. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. Of lean ham, 1 onionor a few shalots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1blade of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 a large carrot, 1/2 ahead of celery. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the beef and ham into small pieces, and slice thevegetables; take a jar, capable of holding two pints of water, andarrange therein, in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning, alternately, filling up with the above quantity of water; tie down thejar, or put a plate over the top, so that the steam may not escape;place it in the oven, and let it remain there from 6 to 8 hours; should, however, the oven be very hot, less time will be required. Whensufficiently cooked, strain the gravy, and when cold, remove the fat. Itmay be flavoured with ketchup, wines, or any other store sauce that maybe preferred. 

It is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven over-night, to draw thegravy; and then it will not require so long baking the following day. 

_Time_. --From 6 to 8 hours, according to the oven. 

_Average cost_, 7d. Per pint. 

[Illustration: CELERY. ]

 CELERY. --As in the above recipe, the roots of celery are principally used in England for flavouring soups, sauces, and gravies, and for serving with cheese at the termination of a dinner, and as an ingredient for salad. In Italy, however, the green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups, and the seeds are also more frequently made use of on the continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is very highly esteemed; and it is there boiled and served up as a dish by itself, as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes. We ourselves think that this mild aromatic plant might oftener be cooked than it is; for there are very few nicer vegetable preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of stewed celery. 

VEAL GRAVY FOR WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c. 

442. INGREDIENTS. --2 slices of nicely flavoured lean ham, any poultrytrimmings, 3 lbs. Of lean veal, a faggot of savoury herbs, includingparsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion may be substituted forthese), a few mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 blade of mace, salt totaste, 3 pints of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, put these ina stewpan, moistening them with a small quantity of water; place themover the fire to draw down. When the bottom of the stewpan becomescovered with a white glaze, fill up with water in the above proportion;add the remaining ingredients, stew very slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and donot forget to skim well the moment it boils. Put it by, and, when cold, take off all the fat. This may be used for Béchamel, sauce tournée, andmany other white sauces. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. Per pint. 

CHEAP GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL. 

443. INGREDIENTS. --Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/4teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of 1/4 lemon;thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, except the thickeningand lemon-juice, and let them simmer very gently for rather more than 1hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain through ahair-sieve. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and the lemon-juice;set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, when it will be ready foruse. It may be flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and, where a ratherdark-coloured gravy is not objected to, ketchup, or Harvey's sauce, maybe added at pleasure. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 3d. 

GRAVY FOR VENISON. 

444. INGREDIENTS. --Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank-bones, saltto taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in astewpan with the shank-bones and water; simmer gently for 2 hours, strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a seasoning of salt. Letit just boil, when it is ready to serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

[Illustration: THE DEER. ]

 VENISON. --Far, far away in ages past, our fathers loved the chase, and what it brought; and it is usually imagined that when Isaac ordered his son Esau to go out with his weapons, his quiver and his bow, and to prepare for him savoury meat, such as he loved, that it was venison he desired. The wise Solomon, too, delighted in this kind of fare; for we learn that, at his table, every day were served the wild ox, the roebuck, and the stag. Xenophon informs us, in his History, that Cyrus, king of Persia, ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts; and of the effeminate Greeks it was the delight. The Romans, also, were devoted admirers of the flesh of the deer; and our own kings and princes, from the Great Alfred down to the Prince Consort, have hunted, although, it must be confessed, under vastly different circumstances, the swift buck, and relished their "haunch" all the more keenly, that they had borne themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal. 

TO DRY HERBS FOR WINTER USE. 

445. On a very dry day, gather the herbs, just before they begin toflower. If this is done when the weather is damp, the herbs will not beso good a colour. (It is very necessary to be particular in littlematters like this, for trifles constitute perfection, and herbs nicelydried will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on theground. It is hardly necessary, however, to state that the flavour andfragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably finer. ) They should beperfectly freed from dirt and dust, and be divided into small bunches, with their roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven, or beforethe fire, as by this means most of their flavour will be preserved, andbe careful not to burn them; tie them up in paper bags, and keep in adry place. This is a very general way of preserving dried herbs; but wewould recommend the plan described in a former recipe. 

_Seasonable_. --From the month of July to the end of September is theproper time for storing herbs for winter use. 

HERB POWDER FOR FLAVOURING, when Fresh Herbs are not obtainable. 

446. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of dried lemon-thyme, 1 oz. Of dried wintersavory, 1 oz. Of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. Of dried parsley, 1 oz. Of dried lemon-peel. 

_Mode_. --Prepare and dry the herbs by recipe No. 445; pick the leavesfrom the stalks, pound them, and sift them through a hair-sieve; mix inthe above proportions, and keep in glass bottles, carefully excludingthe air. This, we think, a far better method of keeping herbs, as theflavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when they are merelyput in paper bags. Preparing them in this way, you have them ready foruse at a moment's notice. 

Mint, sage, parsley, &c. , dried, pounded, and each put into separatebottles, will be found very useful in winter. 

[Illustration: CORK WITH WOODEN TOP. ]

 CORKS WITH WOODEN TOPS. --These are the best corks to use when it is indispensable that the air should not be admitted to the ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use. The top, which, as will be seen by the accompanying little cut, is larger than the cork, is made of wood; and, besides effectually covering the whole top of the bottle, can be easily removed and again used, as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out. 

 SAVORY. --This we find described by Columella, a voluminous Roman writer on agriculture, as an odoriferous herb, which, "in the brave days of old, " entered into the seasoning of nearly every dish. Verily, there are but few new things under the sun, and we don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy, at least beyond what was known to the ancient inhabitants of Italy. We possess two varieties of this aromatic herb, known to naturalists as _Satureja_. They are called summer and winter savory, according to the time of the year when they are fit for gathering. Both sorts are in general cultivation throughout England. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with Roast Beef. 

447. INGREDIENTS. --4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonfulof pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 2teaspoonfuls of made mustard; vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Grate the horseradish, and mix it well with the sugar, salt, pepper, and mustard; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it theconsistency of cream, and serve in a tureen: 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls ofcream added to the above, very much improve the appearance and flavourof this sauce. To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put it in a bainmarie or a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water; make it hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. 

_Note_. --This sauce is a great improvement on the old-fashioned way ofserving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef. The mixing of thecold vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils everything on theplate. Of course, with cold meat, the sauce should be served cold. 

[Illustration: THE HORSERADISH. ]

 THE HORSERADISH. --This has been, for many years, a favourite accompaniment of roast beef, and is a native of England. It grows wild in wet ground, but has long been cultivated in the garden, and is, occasionally, used in winter salads and in sauces. On account of the great volatility of its oil, it should never be preserved by drying, but should be kept moist by being buried in sand. So rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate, that even when scraped for the table, it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the air. 

HORSERADISH VINEGAR. 

448. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of scraped horseradish, 1 oz. Of mincedshalot, 1 drachm of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a bottle, which shake well everyday for a fortnight. When it is thoroughly steeped, strain and bottle, and it will be fit for use immediately. This will be found an agreeablerelish to cold beef, &c. 

_Seasonable_. --This vinegar should be made either in October orNovember, as horseradish is then in its highest perfection. 

INDIAN CURRY-POWDER, founded on Dr. Kitchener's Recipe. 

449. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of coriander-seed, 1/4 lb. Of turmeric, 2 oz. Of cinnamon-seed, 1/2 oz. Of cayenne, 1 oz. Of mustard, 1 oz. Of groundginger, 1/2 ounce of allspice, 2 oz. Of fenugreek-seed. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they shouldremain one night; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and mix thoroughly together; keep the powder in a bottle, from which theair should be completely excluded. 

_Note_. --We have given this recipe for curry-powder, as some personsprefer to make it at home; but that purchased at any respectable shopis, generally speaking, far superior, and, taking all things intoconsideration, very frequently more economical. 

INDIAN MUSTARD, an excellent Relish to Bread and Butter, or any coldMeat. 

450. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of the best mustard, 1/4 lb. Of flour, 1/2oz. Of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls ofketchup, 1/4 bottle of anchovy sauce. 

_Mode_. --Put the mustard, flour, and salt into a basin, and make theminto a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil the shalots with thevinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce, for 10 minutes, and pour the whole, _boiling_, over the mixture in the basin; stir well, and reduce it to aproper thickness; put it into a bottle, with a bruised shalot at thebottom, and store away for use. This makes an excellent relish, and ifproperly prepared will keep for years. 

[Illustration: MUSTARD. ]

 MUSTARD. --Before the year 1729, mustard was not known at English tables. About that time an old woman, of the name of Clements, residing in Durham, began to grind the seed in a mill, and to pass the flour through several processes necessary to free the seed from its husks. She kept her secret for many years to herself, during which she sold large quantities of mustard throughout the country, but especially in London. Here it was introduced to the royal table, when it received the approval of George I. From the circumstance of Mrs. Clements being a resident at Durham, it obtained the name of Durham mustard. In the county of that name it is still principally cultivated, and the plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. It is the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive organs, and even in its previously coarsely-pounded state, had a high reputation with our ancestors. 

INDIAN PICKLE (very Superior). 

451. INGREDIENTS. --To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of garlic, 12 shalots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, 1/4 lb. Of bruised ginger, 2oz. Of whole black pepper, 1 oz. Of long pepper, 1 oz. Of allspice, 12cloves, 1/4 oz. Of cayenne, 2 oz. Of mustard-seed, 1/4 lb. Of mustard, 1oz. Of turmeric; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish-pods, Frenchbeans, gherkins, small round pickling-onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, &c. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into slices, andthe cauliflowers into small branches; sprinkle salt over them in a largedish, and let them remain two days; then dry them, and put them into avery large jar, with garlic, shalots, horseradish, ginger, pepper, allspice, and cloves, in the above proportions. Boil sufficient vinegarto cover them, which pour over, and, when cold, cover up to keep themfree from dust. As the other things for the pickle ripen at differenttimes, they may be added as they are ready: these will be radish-pods, French beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, &c. &c. As these are procured, they must, first of all, be washed in alittle cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply added to the otheringredients in the large jar, only taking care that they are _covered_by the vinegar. If more vinegar should be wanted to add to the pickle, do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the rest. When you havecollected all the things you require, turn all out in a large pan, andthoroughly mix them. Now put the mixed vegetables into smaller jars, without any of the vinegar; then boil the vinegar again, adding as muchmore as will be required to fill the different jars, and also cayenne, mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard, which must be well mixed with alittle cold vinegar, allowing the quantities named above to each gallonof vinegar. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, and whencold, tie down with a bladder. If the pickle is wanted for immediateuse, the vinegar should be boiled twice more, but the better way is tomake it during one season for use during the next. It will keep foryears, if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered by thevinegar. 

This recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle wasalways pronounced excellent by all who tasted it, and who has, for manyyears, exactly followed the recipe given above. 

__Note_. --For small families, perhaps the above quantity of pickle willbe considered too large; but this may be decreased at pleasure, takingcare to properly proportion the various ingredients. 

[Illustration: INDIA PICKLE. ]

 KEEPING PICKLES. --Nothing shows more, perhaps, the difference between a tidy thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these desirable epithets may not honestly be applied, than the appearance of their respective store-closets. The former is able, the moment anything; is wanted, to put her hand on it at once; no time is lost, no vexation incurred, no dish spoilt for the want of "just little something, "--the latter, on the contrary, hunts all over her cupboard for the ketchup the cook requires, or the pickle the husband thinks he should like a little of with his cold roast beef or mutton-chop, and vainly seeks for the Embden groats, or arrowroot, to make one of her little boys some gruel. One plan, then, we strenuously advise all who do not follow, to begin at once, and that is, to label all their various pickles and store sauces, in the same way as the cut here shows. It will occupy a little time at first, but there will be economy of it in the long run. 

 VINEGAR. --This term is derived from the two French words _vin aigre_, 'sour wine, ' and should, therefore, be strictly applied to that which is made only from wine. As the acid is the same, however it is procured, that made from ale also takes the same name. Nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of vinegar. We learn in _Ruth_, that the reapers in the East soaked their bread in it to freshen it. The Romans kept large quantities of it in their cellars, using it, to a great extent, in their seasonings and sauces. This people attributed very beneficial qualities to it, as it was supposed to be digestive, antibilious, and antiscorbutic, as well as refreshing. Spartianus, a Latin historian, tells us that, mixed with water, it was the drink of the soldiers, and that, thanks to this beverage, the veterans of the Roman army braved, by its use, the inclemency and variety of all the different seasons and climates of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said, the Spanish peasantry, and other inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe, still follow this practice, and add to a gallon of water about a gill of wine vinegar, with a little salt; and that this drink, with a little bread, enables them, under the heat of their burning sun, to sustain the labours of the field. 

INDIAN CHETNEY SAUCE. 

452. INGREDIENTS. --8 oz. Of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored; 8 oz. Of tomatoes, 8 oz. Of salt, 8 oz. Of brown, sugar, 8 oz. Of stonedraisins, 4 oz. Of cayenne, 4 oz. Of powdered ginger, 2 oz. Of garlic, 2oz. Of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Chop the apples in small square pieces, and add to them theother ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in awell-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for amonth, taking care to put on the lid after this operation; strain, butdo not squeeze it dry; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, thatis, from the beginning of September to the end of October. 

 PICKLES. --The ancient Greeks and Romans held their pickles in high estimation. They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which were kept, for a long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various ingredients were macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with which they were often impregnated drop by drop. Meat, also, after having been cut into very small pieces, was treated in the same manner. 

ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown). 

453. INGREDIENTS. --A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint ofstock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

_Mode_. --Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, andMadeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remainingingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, putit in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_. (_See_ No. 430. )The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as theywill then become black. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for a small dish. 

ITALIAN SAUCE (White). 

454. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls ofchopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a fewdrops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze oflemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock andham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Béchamel. Let itjust boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the aboveingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retaineda nice white colour, a little cream may be added. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. 

_Note_. --To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throwthem into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added. 

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON. 

455. INGREDIENTS. --6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart ofvinegar allow 1/2 oz. Of cloves, 1/2 oz. Of white pepper, 1 oz. Ofbruised ginger, 1/4 oz. Of mace and chilies, 1 oz. Of mustard-seed, 1/2stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic. 

_Mode_. --Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let themremain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts ofboiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour;take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold. Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the aboveingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart ofvinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. Boilinghot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for use in about 12months, or rather sooner. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made from November to April. 

 THE LEMON. --In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would seem to have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had previously eaten of this fruit. 

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL. 

456. INGREDIENTS. --6 lemons, 1 lb. Of fine salt; to each quart ofvinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455. 

_Mode_. --Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not todivide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in apan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day;then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt hasbecome perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar. Pour over sufficientboiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredientsmentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9months they will be fit for use. 

_Seasonable_. --The best time to make this is from November to April. 

_Note_. --After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquormay be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemonketchup. 

 LEMON-JUICE. --Citric acid is the principal component part of lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It is likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value. In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be preserved for a considerable time. Italy and Turkey export great quantities of it in this manner. 

LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. 

457. INGREDIENTS. --1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380. 

_Mode_. --Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into verysmall dice. Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No. 380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour itover the fowls. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of large fowls. 

LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c. 

458. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. Ofbutter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt totaste. 

_Mode_. --Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a niceflavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour inthe above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice atthe moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a littlesalt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixedtogether. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls. 

_Note_. --Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may besubstituted for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, orrather more, of flour must be added. 

[Illustration: LEMON THYME. ]

 LEMON THYME. --Two or three tufts of this species of thyme, _Thymus citriodorus_, usually find a place in the herb compartment of the kitchen-garden. It is a trailing evergreen, is of smaller growth than the common kind (_see_ No. 166), and is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon. Hence its distinctive name. It is used for some particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is desired to slightly predominate. 

LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes, Soups, &c. ). 

_(Author's Recipe. )_

459. INGREDIENTS. --Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quartsof vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. Of cayenne, 2 oz. Of shalots, 3/4 oz. Of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as theyappear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before theybecome hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew somesalt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to_each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar, soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredientseparately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away foruse in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. 

_Seasonable_. --This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts areobtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. 

LEMON BRANDY. 

460. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz. Of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of thewhite pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let theminfuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Now boil the sugarwith the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to thebrandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouringfor boiled custards. 

 LEMON RIND OR PEEL. --This contains an essential oil of a very high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a wholesome and agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will be seen by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a number of various dishes. Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL, it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the ancient medical philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and recommended to weak and delicate persons. 

LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES. 

461. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk orcream. 

_Mode_. --Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, andstrain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being addedto the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keepstirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle. It should only just simmer, but not boil. 

LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY. 

462. INGREDIENTS. --The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2pint of melted butter. No. 376. 

_Mode_. --Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel thelemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into verysmall dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind veryfine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter;season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, butdo not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of small fowls. 

LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY. 

463. INGREDIENTS. --The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of mincedparsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376. 

_Mode_. --Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and minceit very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which thereshould be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, withthe minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let itjust boil; when serve. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of small fowls. 

LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c. 

(_Very Good_. )

464. INGREDIENTS. --1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of meltedbutter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. Of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3tablespoonfuls of cream. 

_Mode_. --Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order torender this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from theshells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which willbe found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. Ofbutter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, andcover up till wanted. Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376;put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix thesauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its squareform, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let itget thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour wouldimmediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauceshould always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to beserved with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbedthrough a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but asthe goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend onhaving a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing thebetter. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6persons. 

_Note_. --Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answervery well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour willbe obtained. Less quantity than the above may be made by using a verysmall lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and seasonas above. Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, andthe remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care, be converted into a very good sauce. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it issent to Table. 

465. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of mincedparsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon. 

_Mode_. --Work the above ingredients well together, and let them bethoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce, it maybe poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to beserved with. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d. 

Note. --4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 do. Of white stock, No. 107, with 2 oz. Of the above maître d'hôtel butter stirred into it, andjust allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hotmaître d'hôtel sauce. 

 THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL. --The house-steward of England is synonymous with the maître d'hôtel of France; and, in ancient times, amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo. In Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables, fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation, and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the cooks. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, anddifferent Fish. 

466. INGREDIENTS. --1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of choppedparsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 largelemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it thepoultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should besubstituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor isreduced to a full 1/2 pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in anothersaucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the aboveproportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until itis perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butterdoes not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauceis intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficientthickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a smalldish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c. 

MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT). 

(Made without Meat. )

467. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heapedtablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots. 

_Mode_. --Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in theabove ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 9d. Per pint. 

MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and othercold Dishes. 

468. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. 

_Mode_. --Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning ofpepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, inseparate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continuestirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consiststhe secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred toofrequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is athand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are wellincorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all thetime, and it will then be ready for use. 

For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn, pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a littleparsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, Tarragon, or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where theyare liked. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for a small salad. 

_Note_. --In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a fewdrops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a largequantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certainof the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are twoessentials for making this sauce good. 

MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb. 

469. INGREDIENTS. --4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, freefrom grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, andput them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till theformer is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hoursbefore wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated withthe flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above proportion of sugarwould not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have giventhe quantity which we have found to suit the general palate. 

_Average cost_, 3d. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb. 

_Note_. --Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar maybe substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in earlyspring. 

[Illustration: MINT. ]

 MINT. --The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the _Mentha viridis_, and is employed in different culinary processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and afterwards withdrawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring salads. It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup. Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the country. 

MINT VINEGAR. 

470. INGREDIENTS. --Vinegar, mint. 

_Mode_. --Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks, and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until the bottleis full; _cover closely_ to exclude the air, and let it infuse for afortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles foruse, of which the corks should be sealed. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made in June, July, or August. 

MIXED PICKLE. 

(_Very Good_. )

471. INGREDIENTS. --To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb. Of bruisedginger, 1/4 lb. Of mustard, 1/4 lb. Of salt, 2 oz. Of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. Of turmeric, 1 oz. Of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. Of cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums. 

_Mode_. --Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put asmuch vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powdersto a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, andcayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; addall the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in awarm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a woodenspoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added toit. As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, putthem into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be dividedinto small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end ofthe season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables ascould be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. Asnone of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eattill 12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep awooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, mustbe stirred every morning. 

_Seasonable_. --Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the seasonarrives for the various vegetables to be picked. 

MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 

472. INGREDIENTS. --To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb. Of salt; to eachquart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz. Of cayenne, 1/2 oz. Of allspice, 1/2oz. Of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace. 

_Mode_. --Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they areperfectly _fresh-gathered_ when the weather is tolerably dry; for, ifthey are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they aremade is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of themin a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer ofmushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, whenbreak them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days, occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them asmuch juice as possible. Now measure the quantity of liquor withoutstraining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c. Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepanof boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours. Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar, and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug, where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour itoff into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and donot squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops ofbrandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sedimentbehind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so asperfectly to exclude the air. When a very clear bright ketchup iswanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, orflannel bag, _after_ it has been very gently poured off; if theoperation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite aclear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a few peppercorns. 

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of September to the middle of October, when this ketchup should be made. 

_Note_. --This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, isone of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and notrouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made byreducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must beboiled down to 1 pint. This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as solittle is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy. The sediment mayalso be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer forflavouring thick soups or gravies. 

 HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS. --The cultivated mushroom, known as _Agaricus campestris_, may be distinguished from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not. When young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous kinds are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found. 

TO DRY MUSHROOMS. 

473. _Mode_. --Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel offthe skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when theywill shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dryplace. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring themgradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearlytheir usual size. 

[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM. ]

 THE MUSHROOM. --The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of fungus, which, in England, is considered the best, and is there usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large proportion of them are poisonous; hence it is always dangerous to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state. In some parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia, and Poland, many species grow wild, and are used as food; but in Britain, two only are generally eaten. These are mostly employed for the flavouring of dishes, and are also dried and pickled. CATSUP, or KETCHUP, is made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The young, called buttons, are the best for pickling when in the globular form. 

BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, &c. 

474. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of good beefgravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at hand), thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over thefire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks andwiping them free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut intosmall pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons are notobtainable; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very gently forabout 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

_Note_. --When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, the powder No. 477 maybe used as a substitute for brown sauce. 

WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, &c. 

I. 

475. INGREDIENTS. --Rather more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, lemon-juice and water, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice andwater, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectlyfree from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with the butter. When the mushrooms are softened, add the Béchamel, and simmer for about5 minutes; should they, however, not be done enough, allow rather moretime. They should not boil longer than necessary, as they would thenlose their colour and flavour. Rub the whole through a tammy, and servevery hot. After this, it should be warmed in a bain marie. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

II. 

_A More Simple Method_. 

476. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380;1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ifat hand; cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it themushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and thestalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or untilthey are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let it justboil, when serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

 GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI. --The quick growth of the mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of time they live, and the numerous dangers they resist while they continue in the dormant state. To spring up "like a mushroom in a night" is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity; and this completely accords with all the observations which have been made concerning this curious class of plants. Mr. Sowerby remarks--"I have often placed specimens of the _Phallus caninus_ by a window over-night, while in the egg-form, and they have been fully grown by the morning. "

MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and Gravies, when freshMushrooms are not obtainable). 

477. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4oz. Of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper. 

_Mode_. --Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit anddirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at allworm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, butwithout water; shake them over a clear fire, till all the liquor isdried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins, anddry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put intosmall _dry_ bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dryplace. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, when it will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by thismeans to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made in September, or at the beginning ofOctober. 

_Note_. --If the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectlydry, as, also the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very shorttime. 

PICKLED MUSHROOMS. 

478. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to eachquart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. Of ground pepper, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and ruboff the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks;if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones, asthey are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, withpounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over aclear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is alldried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let itsimmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good fora length of time, and are generally considered delicious. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning ofSeptember to the middle of October. 

 NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM. --Locality has evidently a considerable influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom; for it has been discovered, after fatal experience, that some species, which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and pasturelands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the poison in fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained. 

A VERY RICH AND GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Fowls or Rabbits. 

479. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a littlegrated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. Ofbutter, flour to thicken. 

_Mode_. --Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt, to take offthe skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the aboveingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour; boil thewhole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of thesauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of fowls. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

HOW TO MIX MUSTARD. 

480. INGREDIENTS. --Mustard, salt, and water. 

_Mode_. --Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled andallowed to cool; hot water destroys its essential properties, and rawcold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with asmall pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiledwater to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mixwell, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, aswell-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-potshould not be more than half full, or rather less if it will not be usedin a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly mixed. 

TARTAR MUSTARD. 

481. INGREDIENTS. --Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, 1/2 a teacupful ofmustard. 

_Mode_. --Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the aboveproportion of mustard; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight seasoningof cayenne; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, adding this alittle at a time; rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that mayappear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard may be flavoured invarious ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, &c. ; but this is more customary in France than inEngland, as there it is merely considered a "vehicle of flavours, " as ithas been termed. 

PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers)

482. INGREDIENTS. --To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. Of salt, 6peppercorns, nasturtiums. 

_Mode_. --Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them cleanwith a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, andpepper in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill abottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit: they maybe added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin thetops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way isto make them one season for the next. 

_Seasonable_. --Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the endof August. 

[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS. ]

 NASTURTIUMS. --The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by naturalists _Tropoeolum_, and which sometimes goes by the name of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as described in the above recipe. 

FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE. 

483. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoningto taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham. 

_Mode_. --Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham, cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmerthem until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them througha tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon, and put them to 1/2 pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over the fire untilit boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it totaste. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to boil the onions. 

_Average cost_, 10d. For this quantity. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. 

WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c. 

484. INGREDIENTS. --9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint ofmelted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, orrather more. 

_Mode_. --Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salthas been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let themboil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change thewater after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly, chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of meltedbutter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, witha seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready toserve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion saucewill be delicious. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Note_. --To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions, which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found toimprove its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may becooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should bekept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it isliable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would beexcessively disagreeable in delicate preparations. 

BROWN ONION SAUCE. 

485. INGREDIENTS. --6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of goodgravy, 2 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with theabove quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do notget black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmergently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add theseasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back inthe saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Note_. --Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful ofmushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine. 

 HISTORY OF THE ONION. --It is not supposed that any variety of the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (_See_ No. 139. )

PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good). 

486. INGREDIENTS. --Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper. 

_Mode_. --Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with thefingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions), remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have readysome very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put themin. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper andallspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has itsshare of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them ina dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a mostsimple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. Theyshould be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions areliable to become soft. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

487. INGREDIENTS. --1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; toeach 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. Of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful ofcayenne, 1 oz. Of allspice, 1 oz. Of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. Ofwhole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. Of mace. 

_Mode_. --Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they arequite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make astrong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and changethis, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the _last_ brine they wereput in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepancapable of holding them all, as they are always better done together. Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onionswere in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt, put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantlyturning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom tothe top, and _vice versâ_; and let the milk and water run through theholes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if theydo, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent. Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, beparticular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander, into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keepin the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; putthe onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket;cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain tillthe next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow andshrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as whiteas snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remainingingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan. Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till thefollowing day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars orbottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on thetop of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let themstand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fitfor use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without theleast softness, and will keep good many months. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August. 

ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c. 

488. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, thejuice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass ofport wine. 

_Mode_. --Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock, orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour orrather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel. Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let thewhole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot ina tureen which should have a cover to it. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_ for a small tureen. 

OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey. 

489. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. Of chopped suetor butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters. 

_Mode_. --Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumpsremain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finelyminced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces. Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix allthese well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Openand beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to theother ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, workaltogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffedtoo full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, frythem, and use them as a garnish. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 turkey. 

OYSTER KETCHUP. 

490. INGREDIENTS. --Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint ofsherry, 3 oz. Of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace. 

_Mode_. --Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill apint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with thesherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt, cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add itto the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes, and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle andcork closely. The corks should be sealed. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Note_. --Cider may be substituted for the sherry. 

PICKLED OYSTERS. 

491. INGREDIENTS. --100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade ofpounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns. 

_Mode_. --Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in asaucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes, very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar, and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:--Measure theoyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace, lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down veryclosely, as contact with the air spoils them. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

_Note_. --Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one isopened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil. The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months. 

OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c. 

492. INGREDIENTS. --3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made withmilk, No. 380. 

_Mode_. --Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain itinto a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and letthem just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Takethem off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strainthe liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pintaltogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butteris ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previouslybearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side ofthe fire to get thoroughly hot, _but do not allow it to boil_, or theoysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes thissauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, oranchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce _should_ beplain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore werecommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and noseasoning added. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1person, unless the party is very large. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity ofoysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: thismay answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as amode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c. 

PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c. 

493. INGREDIENTS. --2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint ofmelted butter, No. 376. 

_Mode_. --Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted, and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has beenpreviously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the abovequantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made meltedbutter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, andserve. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil the parsley. _Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not tobe had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:--Tieup a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the meltedbutter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced ratherfine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley. 

[Illustration: PARSLEY. ]

 PARSLEY. --If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less than Hercules; and now--was ever fall so great?--we moderns use it in connection with the head of--a calf. According to Homer's "Iliad, " warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt, some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles. (See No. 123. )

FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing. 

494. INGREDIENTS. --Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping. 

_Mode_. --Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly ina cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given anengraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two. Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before thefire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker itis fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the abovearticle, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift itout with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, itwill be ready for use. 

[Illustration: WIRE BASKET. ]

 WIRE BASKET. --For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides that described above. 

PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes. 

495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in acloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, andput the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan ofboiling water, and warm it on the _bain marie_ principle just longenough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready forcolouring. 

TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER. 

496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectlyfree from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has beenslightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front ofthe fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store itaway in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour overit a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes. 

_Seasonable_. --This may be done at any time between June and October. 

AN EXCELLENT PICKLE. 

497. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers, and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pintstone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them inalternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in theabove proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. Itwill be fit for use the day it is made. 

_Seasonable_ in August and September. 

[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriberto the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine. " Mrs. Beeton, not havingtested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spokevery highly in its favour. ]

 SOY. --This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant called _Dolichos Soja_. The Chinese also manufacture it; but that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of statements have been made respecting the very general adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour. 

PICKLED RED CABBAGE. 

498. INGREDIENTS. --Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart ofvinegar, 1/2 oz. Of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. Of whole black pepper, and, when liked, a little cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cutit in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thinslices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt, covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn intoa colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean softcloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the aboveproportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit foruse in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage isliable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of agood red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made. A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to theappearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dryplace. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crispif the frost has just touched the leaves. 

 RED CABBAGE. --This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which, however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white vegetable that the Germans make their _sauer kraut_; a dish held in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally recommended for pickling. 

PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE. 

499. INGREDIENTS. --1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. Of very fresh butter, 1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy andthe butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm andthe sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy, with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen. This is a very rich and excellent sauce. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. For this quantity. 

_Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons. 

QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce. 

500. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pintof soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previouslychopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes, strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be wellsealed to exclude the air. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce. 

_Mons. Ude's Recipe_. 

501. INGREDIENTS. --1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful ofcavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce, a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thickBéchamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfulsof cream; salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it toall the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly, the sauce will be ready for use. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

READING SAUCE. 

502. INGREDIENTS. --2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. Of shalots, 1quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. Of bruisedginger, 1/2 oz. Of long pepper, 1 oz. Of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2oz. Of cayenne, 1/4 oz. Of dried sweet bay-leaves. 

_Mode_. --Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jarwith the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil untilreduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredientsexcept the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so thatthe flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire, and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of bothjars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well asyou mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; coverclosely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jarand add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, whenstrain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The abovequantities will make 1/2 gallon. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3 hours. 

_Seasonable_. --This sauce may be made at any time. 

REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING. 

503. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt andcayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful oftarragon or plain vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into coldwater, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off theshells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add tothem, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping allwell stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in theoil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the otheringredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will beready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this, the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not tocease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased ordiminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smallerproportion of the former ingredient. 

GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, andcolouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chilivinegar, may be added at pleasure. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to boil the eggs. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons. 

[Illustration: TARRAGON. ]

 TARRAGON. --The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as _Artemisia dracunculus_, are much used in France as a flavouring ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not seed in France. 

SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork. 

504. INGREDIENTS. --4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. Of breadcrumbs, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmerfor 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, putin the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chopboth these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work thewhole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be readyfor use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves shouldbe very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in themanner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however, is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would bevery objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of thebird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequentlyadded to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may bedispensed with. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks. 

505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING. --Take 4 apples, peeled andcored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme notbroken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them;when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; thenadd sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently drywithout sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird. 

SALAD DRESSING (Excellent). 

I. 

506. INGREDIENTS. --1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful ofpounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar, and addthe oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all theseingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk andvinegar, which must be added very _gradually_, or the sauce will curdle. Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for use. If thisdressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy appearance, andwill be found very delicious with crab, or cold fried fish (the lattercut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing salad dressings, theingredients cannot be added _too gradually_, or _stirred too much_. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for a small salad. 

This recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress, to whom itwas given by an intimate friend noted for her salads. 

 SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND. --Three centuries ago, very few vegetables were cultivated in England, and an author writing of the period of Henry VIII. 's reign, tells us that neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom: they came from Holland and Flanders. We further learn, that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could not procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was obliged to mend this sad state of affairs, and send to Holland for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs, in the growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other country in Europe. 

[Illustration: THE OLIVE. ]

 THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL. --This tree assumes a high degree of interest from the historical circumstances with which it is connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove, when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great deep, and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding. Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games was a wreath of wild olive; and the "Mount of Olives" is rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the north of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced it to Italy. In Spain and the south of France it is now cultivated; and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in the open air. Both in Greece and Portugal the fruit is eaten in its ripe state; but its taste is not agreeable to many palates. To the Italian shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine, form a nourishing diet; but in England, olives are usually only introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands which have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of olives imported to London, --the French, Spanish, and Italian: the first are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent; the second are larger, but more bitter; and the last are from Lucca, and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called olive oil, or salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual request, more dishes being prepared with than without it, we should imagine. With us, it is principally used in mixing a salad, and when thus employed, it tends to prevent fermentation, and is an antidote against flatulency. 

II. 

507. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4teaspoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt totaste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs until hard, which will be in about 1/4 hour or 20minutes; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound theyolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other ingredients, except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole are thoroughlyincorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient vinegar to make itof the consistency of cream, taking care to add but little at a time. The mixture will then be ready for use. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized salad. 

_Note_. --The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will serve very well asa garnishing to the salad. 

III. 

508. INGREDIENTS. --1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful ofmixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of poundedsugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream. 

_Mode_. --Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe, and bevery particular that the whole is well stirred. 

_Note_. --In making salads, the vegetables, &c. , should never be added tothe sauce very long before they are wanted for table; the dressing, however, may always be prepared some hours before required. Where saladsare much in request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressingfor a few days' consumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble aresaved. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days. 

 POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD. --The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon of St. Paul's, who thought that an enjoyment of the good things of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher, wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we should advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot weather invites to a dish of cold lamb. May they find the flavour equal to the rhyme. --

 "Two large potatoes, pass'd through kitchen sieve, Smoothness and softness to the salad give: Of mordent mustard add a single spoon, Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault. To add a double quantity of salt: Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from 'town; True flavour needs it, and your poet begs, The pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs. Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And, lastly, in the flavour'd compound toss A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce. Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat, 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat. Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl. "

SAUCE ALLEMANDE, or GERMAN SAUCE. 

509. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of sauce tournée (No. 517), the yolks of 2eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it thebeaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it justsimmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are addedto the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is ageneral favourite, and is used for many made dishes. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce). 

510. INGREDIENTS. --Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. Ofanchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaicaginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, 1/2 pintof vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy. 

_Mode_. --Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through astrainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and toevery pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the aboveproportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved, then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), andboil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, andsoy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, andseal the corks. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July, when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. For a quart. 

 MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES. --In France, during the reign of Louis XII. , at the latter end of the 14th century, there was formed a company of sauce-manufacturers, who obtained, in those days of monopolies, the exclusive privilege of making sauces. The statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous sauce à la cameline, sold by them, was to be composed or "good cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar. " The sauce Tence, was to be made of "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good verjuice. " May we respectfully express a hope--not that we desire to doubt it in the least--that the English sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various well-known preparations. 

SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c. 

511. INGREDIENTS. --The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint ofBéchamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a high seasoning of salt andcayenne. 

_Mode_. --Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, untilquite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel into astewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained, and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, butdo not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce willbe spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added atpleasure. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of large soles. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish. 

512. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch ofsweet herbs, 1/2 bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berriesof allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled, lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce. 

_Mode_. --Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put theminto a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor inwhich the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strainit through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce, and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched byadding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and alsoglazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to thematelote till it is dished. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --This sauce originally took its name as being similar to thatwhich the French sailor (_matelot_) employed as a relish to the fish hecaught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for thewine. The Norman _matelotes_ were very celebrated. 

[Illustration: THE BAY. ]

 THE BAY. --We have already described (see No. 180) the difference between the cherry-laurel (_Prunus Laurus cerasus_) and the classic laurel (_Laurus nobilis_), the former only being used for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen was consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and used in their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was the earnestly-desired reward for great enterprises, and for the display of uncommon genius in oratory or writing. It was more particularly sacred to Apollo, because, according to the fable, the nymph Daphne was changed into a laurel-tree. The ancients believed, too, that the laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy, as well as poetic genius; and, when they wished to procure pleasant dreams, would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It was the symbol, too, of victory, and it was thought that the laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes that of "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson being the present poet laureate, crowned with laurel as the first of living bards. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c. 

513. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 smallbunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 slices oflean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 smalllump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots, both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf, spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let theseingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan iscovered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and putin the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 1/4 hour, skim offevery particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve veryhot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, althoughit should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the abovequantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure, according to taste. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for a medium-sized dish of cutlets. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

A GOOD SAUCE FOR VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS. 

514. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of pounded sugar, awineglassful of brandy or rum. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add thepounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole isthoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round thepudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of thecook or mistress. 

_Average cost_, 8d. For this quantity. 

_Sufficient_ for a pudding. 

SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c. 

515. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of 1/2lemon. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, whenbrowning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Frythem brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it, and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boilit gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar, and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, orwhatever dish the sauce has been prepared for. 

_Time_. ---Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Sufficient_ for about 2 lbs. Of steak. 

_Note_. --This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roastgoose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes. 

A GOOD SAUCE FOR STEAKS. 

516. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. Of allspice, 1oz. Of salt, 1/2 oz. Grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. Of pickled shalots, 1pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle. 

_Mode_. --Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them intothe ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, whenstrain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of thesauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy. 

_Seasonable_. --This can be made at any time. 

_Note_. --In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left alarge quantity of liquor; this should be converted into a sauce like theabove, and will be found a very useful relish. 

 THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT. --Our readers will see at Nos. 369 and 399, a description, with engravings, of the qualities of black and long pepper, and an account of where these spices are found. We will here say something of the manner of the growth of the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is usual to plant a thorny tree by its side, to which it may cling. In Malabar, the chief pepper district of India, the jacca-tree (_Artocarpus integrifolia_) is made thus to yield its assistance, the same soil being adapted to the growth of both plants. The stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support to a considerable height; the flexile branches then droop downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other parts, spikes of green flowers, which are followed by the pungent berries. These hang in large bunches, resembling in shape those of grapes; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a little stalk, like currants. Each berry contains a single seed, of a globular form and brownish colour, but which changes to a nearly black when dried; and this is the pepper of commerce. The leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of rather lighter colour; they partake strongly of the peculiar smell and pungent taste of the berry. 

SAUCE TOURNEE. 

517. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of flourand butter, or white roux (No. 526), a faggot of savoury herbs, including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions. 

_Mode_. --Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, andmushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 1/2 hour; stir insufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boilfor a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. Thissauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently calledvelouté. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d. 

_Note_. --If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made ofthese; and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does notthen admit of the fat being nicely removed. 

SWEET SAUCE, for Venison. 

518. INGREDIENTS. --A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of portwine. 

_Mode_. --Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over thefire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not beallowed to boil. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to melt the jelly. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 

SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL. 

519. INGREDIENTS. --1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamingtonsauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1blade of mace, cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire, and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the saucein a tureen. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8d. 

SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey. 

520. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of lean pork, 6 oz. Of fat pork, both weighedafter being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz. Of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade ofpounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the otheringredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equalquantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found toanswer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. In the latter, impart avery delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however, like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individualtastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination ofthe cook, who should study her employer's taste in this, as in everyother respect. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for a small turkey. 

SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES. 

521. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of shin of beef, 1 calf's-foot, 3 lbs. Ofknuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any gametrimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch ofsavoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a littlespice; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all theingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and, when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let itboil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover thestewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: ifrapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain itthrough a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should bequite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whitesof eggs, as described in recipe No. 109. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. 

SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish. 

522. INGREDIENTS. --1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint ofpicked shrimps, cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376, shellthe shrimps (sufficient to make 1/4 pint when picked), and put them intothe butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but donot allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may beadded. 

_Time_. --1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES. 

523. INGREDIENTS. --2 handfuls of spinach. 

_Mode_. --Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the leavesin a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair sieve, and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bainmarie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely, as it should not boil; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, sothat all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be readyfor colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green willbe found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way. 

HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c. 

524. INGREDIENTS. --3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon, 7 cloves, 1/2 oz. Mace, 1/4 oz. Of cayenne, 1 oz. Grated nutmeg, 1-1/2oz. White pepper. 

_Mode_. --Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together, takingcare that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry glassbottle for use. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should theabove not be enough to suit the palate. 

[Illustration: CINNAMON. ]

 CINNAMON. --The cinnamon-tree (_Laurus Cinnamomum_) is a valuable and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet. The trunk is short and straight, with wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The leaves are upon short stalks, and are of an oval shape, and 3 to 5 inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft, insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the kernel of which germinates soon after it falls. The wood of the tree is white and not very solid, and its root is thick and branching, exuding a great quantity of camphor. The inner bark of the tree forms the cinnamon of commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its native island; but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China, Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands; also in the Brazils, the Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities. 

BROWN ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces. 

525. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of butter, 9 oz. Of flour. 

_Mode_. --Melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and dredge in, very gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown colour--toobtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and imparta bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keepit for use: it will remain good some time. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. 

WHITE ROUX, for thickening White Sauces. 

526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the precedingrecipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux, but do notkeep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour. Thisis used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use whenwanted. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_, --A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. 

_Note_. --Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c. : the latter will be found farpreferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread, toasted and added to gravies, answers the two purposes of thickening andcolouring them. 

SPANISH ONIONS--PICKLED. 

527. INGREDIENTS. --Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the onions in thin slices; put a layer of them in thebottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layerof onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till the jaris full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the picklewill be fit for use in a month. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had in England from September to February. 

STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE. 

528. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 oz. Of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic, 2tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint ofvinegar. 

_Mode_. --Boil all the ingredients _gently_ for about 1/2 hour; strainthe liquor, and bottle off for use. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_. --This sauce can be made at any time. 

TOMATO SAUCE--HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c. 

529. INGREDIENTS. --6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, saltand cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104. 

_Mode_. --Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds out;put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them simmer_gently_ until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp; rub the wholethrough a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. The shalots andspices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to. 

_Time_. --1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the tomatoes. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 

_In full season_ in September and October. 

[Illustration: THE TOMATO. ]

 TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE. --The plant which bears this fruit is a native of South America, and takes its name from a Portuguese word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato, and is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It is sometimes served to table roasted or boiled, and when green, makes a good ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is esteemed as excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, and when quite ripe, a good store sauce may be prepared from it. 

TOMATO SAUCE FOR KEEPING (Excellent). 

I. 

530. INGREDIENTS. --To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of cayennevinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. Of shalots, 3/4 oz. Of garlic, peeled and cutin slices; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy, 1 pint of anchovy sauce. 

_Mode_. --Gather the tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a slow oven tilltender; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add cayennevinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion; boil thewhole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft; then rub itthrough a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every six quartsof the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce, and boil altogether for about 20 minutes; bottle off for use, andcarefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good for 2 or 3 years, but will be fit for use in a week. A useful and less expensive sauce maybe made by omitting the anchovy and soy. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1 hour. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this from the middle of September to the end ofOctober. 

II. 

531. INGREDIENTS. --1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of the best powderedginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped fine, 2tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a smallquantity of cayenne may be substituted for this). 

_Mode_. --Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand themin a cool oven until quite tender; when cold, take the skins and stalksfrom them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar, but do notstrain it; add all the other ingredients, mix well together, and put itinto well-sealed bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it will keepgood for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the flavour isbetter after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep, turn it out, and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne. Forimmediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with alittle of the different ingredients, and they will be found very nicefor hashes or stews. 

_Time_. --4 or 5 hours in a cool oven. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October. 

III. 

532. INGREDIENTS. --3 dozen tomatoes; to every pound of tomato-pulp allow1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. Of garlic, 1 oz. Of shalot, 2 oz. Ofsalt, 1 large green capsicum, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickledgherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of 6lemons. 

_Mode_. --Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red; put them in a jarwith a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to putthem in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and examinethem in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow them toremain in the oven long enough to break them; but they should besufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve. Measure thepulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above proportion of vinegar andother ingredients, taking care to chop very fine the garlic, shalot, capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole together till everythingis tender; then again rub it through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice. Now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream, and keepcontinually stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal thecorks. If the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked, diminish the quantities. 

_Time_. --Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October. 

_Note_. --A quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes, which must beput through the sieve with the rest. Keep it well stirred while on thefire, and use a wooden spoon. 

UNIVERSAL PICKLE. 

533. INGREDIENTS. --To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. Of salt, 1/4 lb. Of ginger, 1 oz. Of mace, 1/2 lb. Of shalots, 1 tablespoonful ofcayenne, 2 oz. Of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. Of turmeric. 

_Mode_. --Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; whencold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose, such asradish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c. , as thesecome into season; put them in fresh as you gather them, havingpreviously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This picklewill be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. 

_Seasonable_. --Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for thevarious vegetables. 

_Note_. --As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make, --that is to say, nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables areadded, --care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the picklewell covered, either with a closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladdersecurely tied over, so as perfectly to exclude the air. 

PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good). 

534. INGREDIENTS. --100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegarallow 2 oz. Of whole black pepper, 1 oz. Of allspice, 1 oz. Of bruisedginger. 

_Mode_. --Procure the walnuts while young; be careful they are not woody, and prick them well with a fork; prepare a strong brine of salt andwater (4 lbs. Of salt to each gallon of water), into which put thewalnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine every thirdday; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in the sun until theybecome perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 days; have ready dryjars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boilsufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10 minutes, with spices in theabove proportion, and pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quitecovered with the pickle; tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good 2 or 3 years. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, before the walnuts harden. 

_Note_. --When liked, a few shalots may be added to the vinegar, andboiled with it. 

WALNUT KETCHUP. 

I. 

535. INGREDIENTS. --100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/4 oz. Of mace, 1/4 oz. Of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. Of cloves, 1/4 oz. Ofginger, 1/4 oz. Of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20shalots, 1/4 lb. Of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, letthem stand 8 days, stirring every day; then drain the liquor from them, and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about 1/2 hour. It may bestrained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegaror wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal thecorks. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, whenwalnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes. 

II. 

536. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt, 1/2 lb. Of shalots, 1 oz. Of cloves, 1 oz. Of mace, 1 oz. Of wholepepper, 1 oz. Of garlic. 

_Mode_. --Put the walnut-shells into a pan, with the water, and a largequantity of salt; let them stand for 10 days, then break the shells upin the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a heavy weighton the top to express the juice; place it on the fire, and remove allscum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots, cloves, mace, pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots sink; then putthe liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork closely. Itshould stand 6 months before using: should it ferment during that time, it must be again boiled and skimmed. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ in September, when the walnut-shells are obtainable. 

[Illustration: THE WALNUT. ]

 THE WALNUT. --This nut is a native of Persia, and was introduced into England from France. As a pickle, it is much used in the green state; and grated walnuts in Spain are much employed, both in tarts and other dishes. On the continent it is occasionally employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking; but it is apt, under such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly nutritious for poultry. It is called _mare_, and in Switzerland is eaten under the name of _pain amer_ by the poor. The oil is frequently manufactured into a kind of soap, and the leaves and green husks yield an extract, which, as a brown dye, is used to stain hair, wool, and wood. 

WHITE SAUCE (Good). 

537. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put thestock, which should be well flavoured with vegetables, and rathersavoury; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock, season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gentlyfor about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as thissauce is very liable to burn. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat. 

538. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 asmall teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into astewpan with the butter; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up;then stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil the whole gently until itthickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be readyto serve. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method). 

539. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 oz. Of rice, 1 strip oflemon-peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter isperfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk andrice together; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the mace andseasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should be of theconsistency of thick cream. 

_Time_. --About 1-1/2 hour to boil the rice. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER. ]

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT. 

CHAPTER XI. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

540. In Our "INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY" (_see_ No. 76) we have describedthe gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery, the probabilitybeing, that the human race, for a long period, lived wholly on fruits. Man's means of attacking animals, even if he had the desire ofslaughtering them, were very limited, until he acquired the use of arms. He, however, made weapons for himself, and, impelled by a carnivorousinstinct, made prey of the animals that surrounded him. It is naturalthat man should seek to feed on flesh; he has too small a stomach to besupported alone by fruit, which has not sufficient nourishment torenovate him. It is possible he might subsist on vegetables; but theirpreparation needs the knowledge of art, only to be obtained after thelapse of many centuries. Man's first weapons were the branches of trees, which were succeeded by bows and arrows, and it is worthy of remark, that these latter weapons have been found with the natives of allclimates and latitudes. It is singular how this idea presented itself toindividuals so differently placed. 

541. BRILLAT SAVARIN says, that raw flesh has but oneinconvenience, --from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth. Hegoes on to say, that it is not, however, disagreeable; but, whenseasoned with salt, that it is easily digested. He tells a story of aCroat captain, whom he invited to dinner in 1815, during the occupationof Paris by the allied troops. This officer was amazed at his host'spreparations, and said, "When we are campaigning, and get hungry, weknock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it withsalt, which we always have in the sabretasche, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then dine like princes. " Again, ofthe huntsmen of Dauphiny it is said, that when they are out shooting inSeptember, they take with them both pepper and salt. If they kill a veryfat bird, they pluck and season it, and, after carrying it some time intheir caps, eat it. This, they declare, is the best way of serving itup. 

542. SUBSEQUENTLY TO THE CROAT MODE, which, doubtless, was in fashion inthe earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was anaccident; for fire is not, although we are accustomed to call it so, anelement, or spontaneous. Many savage nations have been found utterlyignorant of it, and many races had no other way of dressing their foodthan by exposing it to the rays of the sun. 

543. THE INHABITANTS OF THE MARIAN ISLANDS, which were discovered in1521, had no idea of fire. Never was astonishment greater than theirswhen they first saw it, on the descent of Magellan, the navigator, onone of their isles. At first they thought it a kind of animal, thatfixed itself to and fed upon wood. Some of them, who approached toonear, being burnt, the rest were terrified, and durst only look upon itat a distance. They were afraid, they said, of being bit, or lest thatdreadful animal should wound with his violent respiration and dreadfulbreath; for these were the first notions they formed of the heat andflame. Such, too, probably, were the notions the Greeks originallyformed of them. 

544. FIRE HAVING BEEN DISCOVERED, mankind endeavoured to make use of itfor drying, and afterwards for cooking their meat; but they were aconsiderable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods ofemploying it in the preparation of their food. 

545. MEAT, THEN, PLACED ON BURNING FUEL was found better than when raw:it had more firmness, was eaten with less difficulty, and the ozmazomebeing condensed by the carbonization, gave it a pleasing perfume andflavour. Still, however, the meat cooked on the coal would becomesomewhat befouled, certain portions of the fuel adhering to it. Thisdisadvantage was remedied by passing spits through it, and placing it ata suitable height above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was invented;and it is well known that, simple as is this mode of cookery, yet allmeat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly flavoured. In Homer'stime, the, art of cookery had not advanced much beyond this; for we readin the "Iliad, " how the great Achilles and his friend Patroclus regaledthe three Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat. It isnoticeable, too, that Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere inhis poems. Later, however, the Jews, coming out of their captivity inEgypt, had made much greater progress. They undoubtedly possessedkettles; and in one of these, Esau's mess of pottage, for which he soldhis birthright, must have been prepared. 

546. HAVING THUS BRIEFLY TRACED A HISTORY OF GASTRONOMICAL PROGRESSES, we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking meat, andmake a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in each ofthe operations. 

547. IN THIS COUNTRY, plain boiling, roasting, and baking are the usualmethods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of thesesimple culinary operations, we must advert to the effects that areproduced by heat on the principal constituents of flesh. Whenfinely-chopped mutton or beef is steeped for some time in a smallquantity of clean water, and then subjected to slight pressure, thejuice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white tastelessresidue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibres. When this residue isheated to between 158° and 177° Fahrenheit, the fibres shrink together, and become hard and horny. The influence of an elevated temperature onthe soluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable. When the wateryinfusion, which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat, isgradually heated, it soon becomes turbid; and, when the temperaturereaches 133°, flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are_albumen_, a substance precisely similar, in all its properties, to thewhite of egg (see No. 101). When the temperature of the watery extractis raised to 158°, the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and theliquid, which was originally tinged red by this substance, is leftperfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated, even at agentle heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquiresthe flavour of roast meat. 

548. THESE INTERESTING FACTS, discovered in the laboratory, throw aflood of light upon the mysteries of the kitchen. The fibres of meat aresurrounded by a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state, justas it exists in the unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling orroasting, this substance coagulates, and thereby prevents thecontraction and hardening of the fibres. The tenderness of well-cookedmeat is consequently proportioned to the amount of albumen deposited inits substance. Meat is underdone when it has been heated throughout onlyto the temperature of coagulating albumen: it is thoroughly done when ithas been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which thecolouring matter of the blood coagulates: it is overdone when the heathas been continued long enough to harden the fibres. 

549. THE JUICE OF FLESH IS WATER, holding in solution many substancesbesides albumen, which are of the highest possible value as articles offood. In preparing meat for the table, great care should be taken toprevent the escape of this precious juice, as the succulence andsapidity of the meat depend on its retention. The meat to be cookedshould be exposed at first to a quick heat, which immediately coagulatesthe albumen on and near the surface. A kind of shell is thus formed, which effectually retains the whole of the juice within the meat. 

550. DURING THE OPERATIONS OF BOILING, BOASTING, AND BAKING, fresh beefand mutton, when moderately fat, lose, according to Johnston, on anaverage about--

 In boiling. In baking. In roasting. 

 4 lbs. Of beef lose 1 lb. 1 lb. 3 oz. 1 lb. 5 oz. 

 4 lbs. Of mutton lose 14 oz. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 lb. 6 oz. 

BAKING. 

[Illustration: BAKING DISH. ]

551. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ROASTING MEAT AND BAKING IT, may begenerally described as consisting in the fact, that, in baking it, thefumes caused by the operation are not carried off in the same way asoccurs in roasting. Much, however, of this disadvantage is obviated bythe improved construction of modern ovens, and of especially those inconnection with the Leamington kitchener, of which we give an engravinghere, and a full description of which will be seen at paragraph No. 65, with the prices at which they can be purchased of Messrs. R. And J. Slack, of the Strand. With meat baked in the generality of ovens, however, which do not possess ventilators on the principle of thiskitchener, there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste, which does not at allequal the flavour developed by roasting meat. The chemistry of bakingmay be said to be the same as that described in roasting. 

552. SHOULD THE OVEN BE VERY BRISK, it will be found necessary to coverthe joint with a piece of white paper, to prevent the meat from beingscorched and blackened outside, before the heat can penetrate into theinside. This paper should be removed half an hour before the time ofserving dinner, so that the joint may take a good colour. 

553. BY MEANS OF A JAR, many dishes, which will be enumerated undertheir special heads, may be economically prepared in the oven. Theprincipal of these are soup, gravies, jugged hare, beef tea; and thismode of cooking may be advantageously adopted with a ham, which haspreviously been covered with a common crust of flour and water. 

554. ALL DISHES PREPARED FOR BAKING should be more highly seasoned thanwhen intended to be roasted. There are some dishes which, it may besaid, are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster;thus, a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast ofveal, a sucking pig, a hare, well basted, will be received byconnoisseurs as well, when baked, as if they had been roasted. Indeed, the baker's oven, or the family oven, may often, as has been said, besubstituted for the cook and the spit with greater economy andconvenience. 

555. A BAKING-DISH, of which we give an engraving, should not be lessthan 6 or 7 inches deep; so that the meat, which of course cannot bebasted, can stew in its own juices. In the recipe for each dish, fullexplanations concerning any special points in relation to it will begiven. 

BOILING. 

556. BOILING, or the preparation of meat by hot water, though one of theeasiest processes in cookery, requires skilful management. Boiled meatshould be tender, savoury, and full of its own juice, or natural gravy;but, through the carelessness and ignorance of cooks, it is too oftensent to table hard, tasteless, and innutritious. To insure a successfulresult in boiling flesh, the heat of the fire must be judiciouslyregulated, the proper quantity of water must be kept up in the pot, andthe scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed. 

557. MANY WRITERS ON COOKERY assert that the meat to be boiled should beput into cold water, and that the pot should be heated gradually; butLiebig, the highest authority on all matters connected with thechemistry of food, has shown that meat so treated loses some of its mostnutritious constituents. "If the flesh, " says the great chemist, "beintroduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of briskebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes, and the potthen placed in a warm place, so that the temperature of the water iskept at 158° to 165°, we have the united conditions for giving to theflesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten. " When a piece ofmeat is plunged into boiling water, the albumen which is near thesurface immediately coagulates, forming an envelope, which prevents theescape of the internal juice, and most effectually excludes the water, which, by mixing with this juice, would render the meat insipid. Meattreated thus is juicy and well-flavoured, when cooked, as it retainsmost of its savoury constituents. On the other hand, if the piece ofmeat be set on the fire with cold water, and this slowly heated toboiling, the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and nutritioussubstances, while, as a matter of course, the soup becomes richer inthese matters. The albumen is gradually dissolved from the surface tothe centre; the fibre loses, more or less, its quality of shortness ortenderness, and becomes hard and tough: the thinner the piece of meatis, the greater is its loss of savoury constituents. In order to obtainwell-flavoured and eatable meat, we must relinquish the idea of makinggood soup from it, as that mode of boiling which yields the best soupgives the driest, toughest, and most vapid meat. Slow boiling whitensthe meat; and, we suspect, that it is on this account that it is in suchfavour with the cooks. The wholesomeness of food is, however, a matterof much greater moment than the appearance it presents on the table. Itshould be borne in mind, that the whiteness of meat that has been boiledslowly, is produced by the loss of some important alimentary properties. 

558. THE OBJECTIONS WE HAVE RAISED to the practice of putting meat onthe fire in cold water, apply with equal force to the practice ofsoaking meat before cooking it, which is so strongly recommended by somecooks. Fresh meat ought never to be soaked, as all its most nutritiveconstituents are soluble in water. Soaking, however, is an operationthat cannot be entirely dispensed with in the preparation of animalfood. Salted and dried meats require to be soaked for some time in waterbefore they are cooked. 

559. FOR BOILING MEAT, the softer the water is, the better. When springwater is boiled, the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness, isprecipitated. This chalk stains the meat, and communicates to it anunpleasant earthy taste. When nothing but hard water can be procured, itshould be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is usedfor culinary purposes. 

560. THE FIRE MUST BE WATCHED with great attention during the operationof boiling, so that its heat may be properly regulated. As a rule, thepot should be kept in a simmering state; a result which cannot beattained without vigilance. 

561. THE TEMPERATURE AT WHICH WATER BOILS, under usual circumstances, is212° Fahr. Water does not become hotter after it has begun to boil, however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued. Thisfact is of great importance in cookery, and attention to it will savemuch fuel. Water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of amoderate heat is just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong firewith the greatest possible violence. When once water has been brought tothe boiling point, the fire may be considerably reduced, as a verygentle heat will suffice to keep the water at its highest temperature. 

562. THE SCUM WHICH RISES to the surface of the pot during the operationof boiling must be carefully removed, otherwise it will attach itself tothe meat, and thereby spoil its appearance. The cook must not neglect toskim during the whole process, though by far the greater part of thescum rises at first. The practice of wrapping meat in a cloth may bedispensed with if the skimming be skillfully managed. If the scum beremoved as fast as it rises, the meat will be cooked clean and pure, andcome out of the vessel in which it was boiled, much more delicate andfirm than when cooked in a cloth. 

563. WHEN TAKEN FROM THE POT, the meat must be wiped with a clean cloth, or, what will be found more convenient, a sponge previously dipped inwater and wrung dry. The meat should not be allowed to stand a momentlonger than necessary, as boiled meat, as well as roasted, cannot beeaten too hot. 

564. THE TIME ALLOWED FOR THE OPERATION OF BOILING must be regulatedaccording to the size and quality of the meat. As a general rule, twentyminutes, reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences, may beallowed for every pound of meat. All the best authorities, however, agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect theoperation. 

565. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF SALTED MEAT may beproperly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry saltin contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. Theapplication of salt causes the fibres of the meat to contract, and thejuice to flow out from its pores: as much as one-third of the juice ofthe meat is often forced out in this manner. Now, as this juice is pureextract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and other valuableprinciples, it follows that meat which has been preserved by the actionof salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat. 

566. THE VESSELS USED FOR BOILING should be made of cast-iron, welltinned within, and provided with closely-fitting lids. They must be keptscrupulously clean, otherwise they will render the meat cooked in themunsightly and unwholesome. Copper pans, if used at all, should bereserved for operations that are performed with rapidity; as, by longcontact with copper, food may become dangerously contaminated. Thekettle in which a joint is dressed should be large enough to allow roomfor a good supply of water; if the meat be cramped and be surroundedwith but little water, it will be stewed, not boiled. 

567. IN STEWING, IT IS NOT REQUISITE to have so great a heat as inboiling. A gentle simmering in a small quantity of water, so that themeat is stewed almost in its own juices, is all that is necessary. It isa method much used on the continent, and is wholesome and economical. 

[Illustration: BOILING-POT. ]

[Illustration: STEWPAN. ]

 Two useful culinary vessels are represented above. One is a boiling-pot, in which large joints may be boiled; the other is a stewpan, with a closely-fitting lid, to which is attached a long handle; so that the cover can be removed without scalding the fingers. 

[Illustration: HOT-PLATE. ]

568. THE HOT-PLATE is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges, being used for boiling and stewing. It is a plate of cast iron, having aclosed fire burning beneath it, by which it is thoroughly well heated. On this plate are set the various saucepans, stewpans, &c. ; and, by thisconvenient and economical method, a number of dishes may be prepared atone time. The culinary processes of braising and stewing are, in thismanner, rendered more gradual, and consequently the substance acted onbecomes more tender, and the gravy is not so much reduced. 

BROILING. 

[Illustration: REVOLVING GRIDIRON. ]

569. GENERALLY SPEAKING, small dishes only are prepared by this mode ofcooking; amongst these, the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitaryEnglish diner may be mentioned as celebrated all the world over. Ourbeef-steak, indeed, has long crossed the Channel; and, with a view ofpleasing the Britons, there is in every _carte_ at every Frenchrestaurant, by the side of _à la Marengo_, and _à la Mayonnaise, --bifteckd'Angleterre_. In order to succeed in a broil, the cook must have abright, clear fire; so that the surface of the meat may be quickly heated. The result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting; namely, thata crust, so to speak, is formed outside, and thus the juices of the meatare retained. The appetite of an invalid, so difficult to minister to, isoften pleased with a broiled dish, as the flavour and sapidity of the meatare so well preserved. 

570. THE UTENSILS USED FOR BROILING need but little description. Thecommon gridiron, for which see engraving at No. 68, is the same as ithas been for ages past, although some little variety has been introducedinto its manufacture, by the addition of grooves to the bars, by meansof which the liquid fat is carried into a small trough. One point it iswell to bear in mind, viz. , that the gridiron should be kept in adirection slanting towards the cook, so that as little fat as possiblemay fall into the fire. It has been observed, that broiling is the mostdifficult manual office the general cook has to perform, and one thatrequires the most unremitting attention; for she may turn her back uponthe stewpan or the spit, but the gridiron can never be left withimpunity. The revolving gridiron, shown in the engraving, possesses someadvantages of convenience, which will be at once apparent. 

FRYING. 

[Illustration: SAUTÉ PAN. ]

571. THIS VERY FAVOURITE MODE OF COOKING may be accurately described asboiling in fat or oil. Substances dressed in this way are generally wellreceived, for they introduce an agreeable variety, possessing, as theydo, a peculiar flavour. By means of frying, cooks can soon satisfy manyrequisitions made on them, it being a very expeditious mode of preparingdishes for the table, and one which can be employed when the fire is notsufficiently large for the purposes of roasting and boiling. The greatpoint to be borne in mind in frying, is that the liquid must be hotenough to act instantaneously, as all the merit of this culinaryoperation lies in the invasion of the boiling liquid, which carbonizesor burns, at the very instant of the immersion of the body placed in it. It may be ascertained if the fat is heated to the proper degree, bycutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying-pan for five orsix seconds; and if it be firm and of a dark brown when taken out, putin immediately what you wish to prepare; if it be not, let the fat beheated until of the right temperature. This having been effected, moderate the fire, so that the action may not be too hurried, and thatby a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved, andits flavour enhanced. 

572. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FRYING consists in this, that liquids subjectedto the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat. Being differently constituted in their nature, they possess different"capacities for caloric. " Thus, you may, with impunity, dip your fingerin boiling spirits of wine; you would take it very quickly from boilingbrandy, yet more rapidly from water; whilst the effects of the mostrapid immersion in boiling oil need not be told. As a consequence ofthis, heated fluids act differently on the sapid bodies presented tothem. Those put in water, dissolve, and are reduced to a soft mass; theresult being _bouillon_, stock, &c. (_see_ No. 103). Those substances, on the contrary, treated with oil, harden, assume a more or less deepcolour, and are finally carbonized. The reason of these differentresults is, that, in the first instance, water dissolves and extractsthe interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it; whilst, in the second, the juices are preserved; for they are insoluble in oil. 

573. IT IS TO BE ESPECIALLY REMEMBERED, in connection with frying, thatall dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece ofblotting-paper, or sieve reversed, and there left for a few minutes, sothat any superfluous greasy moisture may be removed. 

574. THE UTENSILS USED FOR THE PURPOSES OF FRYING are confined tofrying-pans, although these are of various sizes; and, for small anddelicate dishes, such as collops, fritters, pancakes, &c. , the _sauté_pan, of which we give an engraving, is used. 

COOKING BY GAS. 

[Illustration: GAS STOVE. ]

575. GAS-COOKING can scarcely now be considered a novelty, --manyestablishments, both small and large, have been fitted with apparatusfor cooking by this mode, which undoubtedly exhibits some advantages. Thus the heat may be more regularly supplied to the substance cooking, and the operation is essentially a clean one, because there can be nocinders or other dirt to be provided for. Some labour and attentionnecessary, too, with a coal fire or close stove, may be saved; and, besides this, it may, perhaps, be said that culinary operations arereduced, by this means, to something like a certainty. 

576. THERE ARE, HOWEVER, WE THINK, MANY OBJECTIONS to this mode ofcooking, more especially when applied to small domestic establishments. For instance, the ingenious machinery necessary for carrying it out, requires cooks perfectly conversant with its use; and if the gas, whenthe cooking operations are finished, be not turned off, there will be alarge increase in the cost of cooking, instead of the economy which ithas been supposed to bring. For large establishments, such as some ofthe immense London warehouses, where a large number of young men have tobe catered for daily, it may be well adapted, as it is just possiblethat a slight increase in the supply of gas necessary for a couple ofjoints, may serve equally to cook a dozen dishes. 

ROASTING. 

577. OF THE VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING MEAT, ROASTING is that whichmost effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted bybeing exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done byplacing the meat before an open grate, and keeping it in motion toprevent the scorching on any particular part. When meat is properlyroasted, the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated, and thus presentsa barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting meat, the heat must bestrongest at first, and it should then be much reduced. To have a goodjuicy roast, therefore, the fire must be red and vigorous at the verycommencement of the operation. In the most careful roasting, some of thejuice is squeezed out of the meat: this evaporates on the surface of themeat, and gives it a dark brown colour, a rich lustre, and a strongaromatic taste. Besides these effects on the albumen and the expelledjuice, roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine, and melts the fat out of the fat-cells. 

578. IF A SPIT is used to support the meat before the fire, it should bekept quite bright. Sand and water ought to be used to scour it with, forbrickdust and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat. When wellscoured, it must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth; and, in spittingthe meat, the prime parts should be left untouched, so as to avoid anygreat escape of its juices. 

579. KITCHENS IN LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS are usually fitted with what aretermed "smoke-jacks. " By means of these, several spits, if required, maybe turned at the same time. This not being, of course, necessary insmaller establishments, a roasting apparatus, more economical in itsconsumption of coal, is more frequently in use. 

[Illustration: BOTTLE-JACK, WITH WHEEL AND HOOK. ]

580. THE BOTTLE-JACK, of which we here give an illustration, with thewheel and hook, and showing the precise manner of using it, is nowcommonly used in many kitchens. This consists of a spring inclosed in abrass cylinder, and requires winding up before it is used, andsometimes, also, during the operation of roasting. The joint is fixed toan iron hook, which is suspended by a chain connected with a wheel, andwhich, in its turn, is connected with the bottle-jack. Beneath it standsthe dripping-pan, which we have also engraved, together with thebasting-ladle, the use of which latter should not be spared; as therecan be no good roast without good basting. "Spare the rod, and spoil thechild, " might easily be paraphrased into "Spare the basting, and spoilthe meat. " If the joint is small and light, and so turns unsteadily, this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of the kitchen weights. Sometimes this jack is fixed inside a screen; but there is thisobjection to this apparatus, --that the meat cooked in it resembles theflavour of baked meat. This is derived from its being so completelysurrounded with the tin, that no sufficient current of air gets to it. It will be found preferable to make use of a common meat-screen, such asis shown in the woodcut. This contains shelves for warming plates anddishes; and with this, the reflection not being so powerful, and moreair being admitted to the joint, the roast may be very excellentlycooked. 

[Illustration: DRIPPING-PAN AND BASTING-LADLE. ]

581. IN STIRRING THE FIRE, or putting fresh coals on it, thedripping-pan should always be drawn back, so that there may be no dangerof the coal, cinders, or ashes falling down into it. 

582. UNDER EACH PARTICULAR RECIPE there is stated the time required forroasting each joint; but, as a general rule, it may be here given, thatfor every pound of meat, in ordinary-sized joints, a quarter of an hourmay be allotted. 

[Illustration: HEAT-SCREEN. ]

583. WHITE MEATS, AND THE MEAT OF YOUNG ANIMALS, require to be very wellroasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thusveal, pork, and lamb, should be thoroughly done to the centre. 

584. MUTTON AND BEEF, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking, require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be dressed to thepoint, that, in carving them, the gravy should just run, but not toofreely. Of course in this, as in most other dishes, the tastes ofindividuals vary; and there are many who cannot partake, withsatisfaction, of any joint unless it is what others would calloverdressed. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

QUADRUPEDS. 

CHAPTER XII. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS. 

585. BY THE GENERAL ASSENT OF MANKIND, THE EMPIRE OF NATURE has beendivided into three kingdoms; the first consisting of minerals, thesecond of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdomcomprises all substances which are without those organs necessary tolocomotion, and the due performance of the functions of life. They arecomposed of the accidental aggregation of particles, which, undercertain circumstances, take a constant and regular figure, but which aremore frequently found without any definite conformation. They alsooccupy the interior parts of the earth, as well as compose those hugemasses by which we see the land in some parts guarded against theencroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifiesthe earth with an endless variety of form and colour. It consists oforganized bodies, but destitute of the power of locomotion. They arenourished by means of roots; they breathe by means of leaves; andpropagate by means of seed, dispersed within certain limits. The AnimalKingdom consists of sentient beings, that enliven the external parts ofthe earth. They possess the powers of voluntary motion, respire air, andare forced into action by the cravings of hunger or the parching ofthirst, by the instincts of animal passion, or by pain. Like thevegetable kingdom, they are limited within the boundaries of certaincountries by the conditions of climate and soil; and some of the speciesprey upon each other. Linnaeus has divided them into sixclasses;--Mammalia, Birds, Fishes, Amphibious Animals, Insects, andWorms. The three latter do not come within the limits of our domain; offishes we have already treated, of birds we shall treat, and of mammaliawe will now treat. 

586. THIS CLASS OF ANIMALS embraces all those that nourish their youngby means of lacteal glands, or teats, and are so constituted as to havea warm or red blood. In it the whale is placed, --an order which, fromexternal habits, has usually been classed with the fishes; but, althoughthis animal exclusively inhabits the water, and is supplied with fins, it nevertheless exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds. It has warmblood, and produces its young alive; it nourishes them with milk, and, for that purpose, is furnished with teats. It is also supplied withlungs, and two auricles and two ventricles to the heart; all of whichbring it still closer into an alliance with the quadrupedal species ofthe animal kingdom. 

587. THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAMMALIA have been frequentlynoticed. The bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with hair, akind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury, and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and thenature of the climate it inhabits. In all the higher orders of animals, the head is the principal seat of the organs of sense. It is there thatthe eyes, the ears, the nose, and the mouth are placed. Through the lastthey receive their nourishment. In it are the _teeth_, which, in most ofthe mammalia, are used not only for the mastication of food, but asweapons of offence. They are inserted into two movable bones calledjaws, and the front teeth are so placed that their sharp edges mayeasily be brought in contact with their food, in order that its fibresmay readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated thecanine teeth, or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and, being pointed, are used to tear the food. In the back jaws are placedanother form of teeth, called grinders. These are for masticating thefood; and in those animals that live on vegetables, they are flattenedat the top; but, in carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished withsharp-pointed protuberances. From the numbers, form, and disposition ofthe teeth, the various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged. The_nose_ is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are callednostrils. Through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell;and in some it is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent downwards. In beasts of prey, it is frequentlylonger than the lips; and in some other animals it is elongated into amovable trunk or proboscis, whilst, in the rhinoceros tribe, it is armedwith a horn. The _eyes_ of quadrupeds are generally defended by movablelids, on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair, calledeyelashes. The opening of the pupil is in general circular; but to somespecies, as in those of the Cat and Hare, it is contracted into aperpendicular line, whilst in the Horse, the Ox, and a few others, itforms a transverse bar. The _ears_ are openings, generally accompaniedwith a cartilage which defends and covers them, called the externalears. In water-animals the latter are wanting; sound, in them, beingtransmitted merely through orifices in the head, which have the name ofauditory-holes. The most defenceless animals are extremely delicate inthe sense of hearing, as are likewise most beasts of prey. Most of themammiferous animals _walk_ on four feet, which, at the extremities, areusually divided into toes or fingers. In some, however, the feet end ina single corneous substance called a hoof. The toes of a few end inbroad, flat nails, and of most others, in pointed claws. Some, again, have the toes connected by a membrane, which is adapted to those thatare destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water. Others, again, as in the Bat, have the digitations of the anterior feetgreatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a membrane, which extends round the hinder legs and tail, and by means of which theyare enabled to rise into the air. In Man, the hand alone comprisesfingers, separate, free, and flexible; but Apes, and some other kinds ofanimals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, arethe only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand. Others, such as Rats and Squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small andflexible to enable them to pick up objects; but they are compelled tohold them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and mustrest on the fore-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they wishto hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There arestill others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin, orenveloped in corneous hoofs, and are thereby enabled to exercise noprehensile power whatever. 

588. ACCORDING TO THE DESIGN AND END OF NATURE, mammiferous animals arecalculated, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds offood, --some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs, orfruits; but in their infant state, milk is the appropriate food of thewhole. That this food may never fail them, it is universally ordained, that the young should no sooner come into the world, than the milkshould flow in abundance into the members with which the mother issupplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a wonderfulinstinct of Nature, too, the young animal, almost as soon as it has comeinto life, searches for the teat, and knows perfectly, at the first, how, by the process of suction, it will be able to extract the fluidnecessary to its existence. 

589. IN THE GENERAL ECONOMY OF NATURE, this class of animals seemsdestined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animatedbeings that hold their existence on the surface of the earth. To manthey are immediately useful in various ways. Some of their bodies affordhim food, their skin shoes, and their fleece clothes. Some of them unitewith him in participating the dangers of combat with an enemy, andothers assist him in the chase, in exterminating wilder sorts, orbanishing them from the haunts of civilization. Many, indeed, areinjurious to him; but most of them, in some shape or other, he turns tohis service. Of these there is none he has made more subservient to hispurposes than the common ox, of which there is scarcely a part that hehas not been able to convert into some useful purpose. Of the horns hemakes drinking-vessels, knife-handles, combs, and boxes; and when theyare softened by means of boiling water, he fashions them intotransparent plates for lanterns. This invention is ascribed to KingAlfred, who is said to have been the first to use them to preserve hiscandle time-measures from the wind. Glue is made of the cartilages, gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings of the hides. Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest of thecalf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made the basisof Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared fromtheir sinews. The hair is used in various valuable manufactures; thesuet, fat, and tallow, are moulded into candles; and the milk and creamof the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of this animalvaluable to man, who has spared no pains to bring it to the higheststate of perfection. 

[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW. ]

[Illustration: SHORT-HORN BULL. ]

590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF THE OX, upon which man has bestowed hishighest powers of culture, there is now none takes a higher place thanthat known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest ages, GreatBritain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breedsof cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greatercelebrity than those which have this name, and which originated, aboutseventy years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spreadinto the valleys of the Tweed; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland; andsouthward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed themost profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attainssooner to maturity, and none that supplies meat of a superior quality. The value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At thesale of Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull"Comet" sold for 1, 000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, with nineteen bulls, fetched£8, 468. 5s. ; being an average of £68. 17s. Apiece. The value of suchanimals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted withthe care with which they are tended, and with the anxious attentionwhich is paid to the purity of their breed. A modern writer, wellacquainted with this subject, says, "There are now, at least, fivehundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seventhousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book. " Thenecessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at firstsight, be imagined, as it tends directly to preserve the character ofthe cattle, while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of theanimal thus entered. Besides, many of the Americans, and largepurchasers for the foreign market, will not look at an animal withoutthe breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference. Ofshort-horned stock, there is annually sold from £40, 000 to £50, 000 worthby public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of byprivate contract. The brood is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia, France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most of the Britishcolonies, and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairyproduce, wherever it is known. The quickness with which it takes onflesh, and the weight which it frequently makes, are well known; but wemay mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to fiveyears old realize a weight of from 800 to 1, 000 lbs. Such animalscommand from the butcher from £30 to £40 per head, according to thequality; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, ofless Weight, bring as much as £20 apiece. 

[Illustration: LONG-HORN BULL. ]

[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW. ]

591. LONG-HORNS. --This is the prevailing breed in our midland countiesand in Ireland; but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns, andare fast being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivatedwith the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they areinferior to the others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm. 

[Illustration: ALDERNEY COW. ]

[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL. ]

592. THE ALDERNEY. --Among the dairy breeds of England, the Alderneytakes a prominent place, not on account of the quantity of milk which ityields, but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butterwhich are produced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and inappearance it greatly resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, theexcellence of which is supposed to be, in some degree, derived from amixture of the Alderney blood with that breed. The distinction betweenthem, however, lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk whichthey severally produce; that of the Alderney being rich in quality, andthat of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of the former, however, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless. 

[Illustration: GALLOWAY BULL. ]

[Illustration: GALLOWAY COW. ]

593. SCOTTISH BREEDS. --Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to theHighlands of Scotland; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloewithout horns; and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebrated. Thefirst has kept his place, and on account of the compactness of his form, and the excellent quality of his flesh, he is a great favourite withbutchers who have a select family trade. It is alike unsuitable for thedairy and the arable farm; but in its native Highlands it attains togreat perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which itgathers on the sides of the mountains. The Galloway has a larger frame, and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given place to theshort-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is pursuedwith advantage. The Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy, andfor the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its nativedistrict. In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breedcapable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butterand cheese. It is difficult to fatten, however, and its beef is of acoarse quality. We have chosen these as among the principalrepresentative breeds of the ox species; but there are other breedswhich, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity. 

[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS. ]

594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is bystriking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, alittle above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given, the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a caneis generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, whichinstantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and someother countries on the continent, it is also usual to deprive oxen oflife by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in theneck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the samemode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by thematador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation, if the operator be skilful. We hope and believe that those men whosedisagreeable duty it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" toprovide meat for mankind, inflict as little punishment and cause aslittle suffering as possible. 

595. THE MANNER IN WHICH A SIDE OF BEEF is cut up in London, is shown inthe engraving on this page. In the metropolis, on account of the largenumber of its population possessing the means to indulge in the "best ofeverything, " the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great, the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for theother parts. The consequence is, that in London the carcass is theredivided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the mostesteemed joints. In many places, however, where, from a greater equalityin the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand andprices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized, there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints solarge. 

596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL in which the muscles areleast called into action, is most tender and succulent; as, forinstance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of theshoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, and neck, are the toughest, driest, and least-esteemed. 

597. THE NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS in the hind and fore quarters of aside of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are asfollows:--

HIND QUARTER. 

1. Sirloin. --The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron;this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, atentertainments, on occasion of rejoicing. 

2. Rump, --the finest part for steaks. 

3. Aitch-bone, --boiling piece. 

4. Buttock, --prime boiling piece. 

5. Mouse-round, --boiling or stewing. 

6. Hock, --stewing. 

7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat, --primest boiling piece. 

8. Thin flank, --boiling. 

FORE QUARTER. 

9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib. --This is considered the primestroasting piece. 

10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib, --greatly esteemed by housekeepersas the most economical joint for roasting. 

11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib, --used for second quality of steaks. 

12. Leg-of-mutton piece, --the muscles of the shoulder dissected from thebreast. 

13. Brisket, or breast, --used for boiling, after being salted. 

14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece, --used for soups, gravies, stocks, pies, and mincing for sausages. 

15. Shin, --stewing. 

The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according tothe several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner. 

_First class_. --includes the sirloin, with the kidney suet (1), therump-steak piece (2), the fore-rib (9). 

_Second class_. --The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib(10). 

_Third class_. --The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank(8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13). 

_Fourth class_. --The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14). 

_Fifth class_. --The hock (6), the shin (15). 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

I. 

598. INGREDIENTS. --About 2 lbs. Of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savouryherbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to eachslice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portionof the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince theherbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt. Thenput another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed inthis manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour in the gravy andale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice), cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or ratherlonger. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before addingthem to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they wereboiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravyat hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very _thin_ slices. 

II. 

599. INGREDIENTS. --Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes. 

_Mode_. --Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoesover the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (thismay be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), wellseasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, whichshould be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer ofmashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in thegravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bakefor 1/2 hour. This may be served in the dish, or turned out. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d. 

_Sufficient_. --A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BEEF. --The quality of beef depends on various circumstances; such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on the food upon which it has been raised. Bull beef is, in general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is held in high estimation. The flesh of the smaller breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal is about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too young. 

BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING. 

600. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk, salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. Of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt. 

_Mode_. --Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantityof fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of flour, eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottomof a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be wellseasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of thebatter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

(_Economical_. )

601. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 lbs. Of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. Ofclarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berriesof allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, saltto taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put thedripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin. Letit get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about. When nicely browned all over, add _by degrees_ boiling water in theabove proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole wellstirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpanclosely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very _gently_, tillthe meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when itwill be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent totable. 

_Time_. --3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

602. INGREDIENTS. --6 or 7 lbs. Of the thick flank of beef, a few slicesof fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloveswell mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful;salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finelyminced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head ofcelery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the othervegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in thefollowing manner:--Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into longslices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then intoa little of the above seasoning of spice, &c. , mixed with the samequantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough tolet in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of theseasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape. Haveready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the pieceof meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables, vinegar, and water. Let it simmer _very gently_ for 5 hours, or ratherlonger, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once ortwice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and putit on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add theport wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready toserve. Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or themeat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble. Whenconvenient, all kinds of stews, &c. , should be cooked on a hot-plate, asthe process is so much more gradual than on an open fire. 

_Time_. --5 hours, or rather more. 

_Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish. 

 GOOD MEAT. --The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health, adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity, and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed. It is also full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the last-mentioned properties. 

BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE. 

603. INGREDIENTS. --3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (seeNo. 492), 2 lbs. Of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt. 

_Mode_. --Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that isready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling. Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clearfire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In about 8minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smotherwith the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Serve quickly. 

_Time_. --About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

BEEF-STEAK PIE. 

604. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg. 

_Mode_. --Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, thatthey may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectlysweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide, allowing a _small_ piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange themeat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning ofsalt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the dishsufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a niceraised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow. Pour insufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (seePastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover;slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to thedish. Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shapethat fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg;make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about1-1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, for this size, 3s 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

Note. --Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oystersand their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suetmay be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarifiedbeef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object. Pieces ofunderdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously;but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game. We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually thecase; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easilyhelped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or twolarge steaks. 

[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH. ]

BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING. 

605. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to tasteof salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in theproportion of 6 oz. Of suet to each 1 lb. Of flour. 

_Mode_. --Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung alittle time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cuteach kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have given anengraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion, leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then cover thebottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; seasonwith salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, butit is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, andseasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour insufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin. Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the twocrusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up theoverhanging paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie upthe pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in ajug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowedto stop boiling. When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in thetop of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to tablein the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinnedround it. Serve quickly. 

_Time_. --For a pudding with 2 lbs. Of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. 

Note. --Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a fewoysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by aSussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savourypuddings. It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat iscut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: ontrial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy, than when laid in large pieces in the dish. 

 BAD MEAT. In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries, as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which, from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more advanced stage of such disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable carrion. In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and shrunk within its integuments. The flesh of animals slaughtered whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and soon becomes putrid. When an animal has died otherwise than by slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added, spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly. 

BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a lamode Francaise). 

606. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. Of butter, saltand pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a frying or _sauté_ pan, set it over thefire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thinslices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice browncolour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning themfrequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not bethick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in thebutter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and placethe fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in perfection, a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat isgenerally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaksshould be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to frythe potatoes. _Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meatcannot hang to get tender. 

[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF. ]

BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF. 

607. INGREDIENTS. --Beef, water. 

_Mode_. --After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be readyfor use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not sosolid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours, changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness isobtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to coverthe meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint(see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly. Now draw the pot to the sideof the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must onlysimmer, or the meat will be hard and tough. Carefully remove the scumfrom the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutesafter it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, andsometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef. Garnishwith a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in avegetable-dish. 

_Time_. --An aitch-bone of 10 lbs. , 2-1/2 hours after the water boils;one of 20 lbs. , 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --10 lbs. For 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to March. 

_Note_. --The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easilyconverted into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very fewvegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiledwith the meat. 

 THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT. --The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to understand. By its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable. Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent action of _saltpetre_ on meat is much greater than that of salt, and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but, in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat. 

BOILED ROUND OF BEEF. 

608. INGREDIENTS. --Beef, water. 

_Mode_. --As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large forsmall families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe fordressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16lbs. , after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt, skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keepthe skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, asin the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins toboil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is notattended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table, presents a very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw thepot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done. Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one;pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots. (_See_coloured plate 2. ) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suetdumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with thebeef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; andthe outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninvitingappearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted. Thesemake an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table. 

_Time_. --Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs. , about 3 hours afterthe water boils. _Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter. 

609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TOBE SERVED COLD. --Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a fewpounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of thetubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put itinto the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continuethis process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let itremain until quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the whole, of the gravy. If there is no ice, springwater will answer the same purpose, but will require to be morefrequently changed. 

_Note_. --The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; ofcourse allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint. 

BEEF CAKE. 

610. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of coldmeat allow 1/4 lb. Of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper andsalt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better), add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix welltogether. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inchthick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravypoured round them. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS. 

611. INGREDIENTS. --Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, saltto taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce. 

_Mode_. --As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state ofthe fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free fromsmoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use thegridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron fora few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece offresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, orrather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possiblewith a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these arenot at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravyescapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready avery hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a littleminced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and seasonwith pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must bedetermined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; morethan from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think, would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition isnecessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them inperfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared fordinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on theirbeing served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices ofcucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequentaccompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dishgenerally reject all additions but pepper and salt. 

_Time_. --8 to 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1/2 lb. To each person; if the party consistentirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. Will not be too much. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as themeat cannot hang long enough to be tender. 

 DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF. --We have already stated (see No. 593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind, however, that each county has its particular season, and that the London and other large markets are always supplied by those counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity of most excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source. 

BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

(Cold Meat Cookery). 

612. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. Of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashedpotatoes, slices of cold roast beef. 

_Mode_. --Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, andsalt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup;stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it inthe middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoesslices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In makingthe mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there issufficient gravy. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

613. INGREDIENTS. --2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashedpotatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef. 

_Mode_. --Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; addthe cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmergently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls ofmashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quitehot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, whichshould be previously broiled over a nice clear fire. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d. , exclusive of the cold meat. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

BROILED BEEF-BONES. 

614. INGREDIENTS. --The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, andcayenne. 

_Mode_. --Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is nottoo thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, andbroil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but donot allow them to blacken. 

TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART. 

615. INGREDIENTS. --1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417. 

_Mode_. --Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe itwell with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the insidewith a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of aneedle and coarse thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before agood fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eatdry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes beforeserving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy andred-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it willrequire 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well asroasted. 

_Time_. --Large heart, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Note_. --This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, thoughnot seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness andeconomy. 

BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery). 

616. INGREDIENTS. --A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking carenot to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with friedgreens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys. They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed, till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion, andseasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready toserve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF. ]

COLLARED BEEF. 

617. INGREDIENTS. --7 lbs. Of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. Ofcoarse sugar, 6 oz. Of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful ofparsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savouryherbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rubin the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for aweek or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, removeall the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle itthickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the aboveproportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and thelatter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible, in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broadtape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out ofthe pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let itremain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to thebreakfast-table. 

_Time_. --6 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and regularly rubbed and turned every day. 

BEEF-COLLOPS. 

618. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 pint ofgravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers. 

_Mode_. --Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 incheslong; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Putthem in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for about 3minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy. Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoningand all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree). 

619. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. Of butter, 1 onion minced, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful ofHarvey's sauce, or lemon-juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch ofsavoury herbs. 

_Mode_. --Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter inbutter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in astewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes; garnish with sippets oftoasted bread, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

620. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiledbeef, 3 oz. Of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1dessertspoonful of curry powder. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the butterinto a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a lightly-browncolour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a brisk firefor about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer, or aspoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added; but a good curry shouldnot be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an edging of dry boiledrice, in the same manner as for other curries. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING. 

I. 

621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everythingexcept game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for fryingnearly as well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and willremain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin, pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away theimpurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment willsettle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it awayin jars or basins for use. 

ANOTHER WAY. 

622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a fewminutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it standto cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars foruse. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as, with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell. 

ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded). 

623. INGREDIENTS. --About 4 lbs. Of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficientvinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411. 

_Mode_. --Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with sufficientvinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning, andlet it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clearfire for about 1-1/4 hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanishsauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It may begarnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRICANDEAU OF BEEF. 

624. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 lbs. Of the inside fillet of the sirloin (apiece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt totaste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 shalots, bacon. 

_Mode_. --Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them aseasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice, well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with thestock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper andsalt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover itclosely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it onthe fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side ofthe beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made asfollows:--Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with onlythe water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its burning, and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and stew it with asmall piece of butter and 4 or 6 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, for anhour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a little sugar; and alittle cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found animprovement. 

_Time_. --2 hours to gently stew the meat. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

625. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, 1/4lb. Of butter, mashed potatoes. 

_Mode_. --Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry themgently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some veryhot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish with 3or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquor frommixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found good. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRIED RUMP-STEAK. 

626. INGREDIENTS. --Steaks, butter or clarified dripping. 

_Mode_. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks tofrying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode maybe adopted; and, when properly done, the dish may really look veryinviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut ratherthinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to each. Putsome butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan; let it get quitehot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done, which willbe in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the steaks be very thick. Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small piece of butter and atablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They shouldbe sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the steaks are entirelyspoiled. 

_Time_. --8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a verythick one. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannothang to get tender. _

_Note_. --Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner:--Assoon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water intothe frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece ofbutter, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Holdthe pan over the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer, then pour on the steak, and serve. 

 A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from a celebrated modern French work, the production of one who in Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist:--The flesh of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken from an animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor too lean. This meat, which possesses in the highest degree the most nutritive qualities, is generally easily digested; stock is made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed, braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the foundation of stock, gravies, braises, &c. ; its nutritious and succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragoûts. It is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is truly the king of the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy; and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized world!

BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

627. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt totaste, 3/4 lb. Of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. Of butter, the whitesof 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the aboveproportion of water; stir in 2 oz. Of butter, which must be melted, butnot oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites of twowell-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more water must beadded. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper andsalt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into apan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, according to thesize. When done on one side, turn and brown them on the other. Let themdry for a minute or two before the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. Asmall quantity of finely-minced onions, mixed with the batter, is animprovement. 

_Time_. --From 7 to 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

I. 

628. INGREDIENTS. --Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of tomatosauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good mushroomketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of coldroast beef. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan withwhatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted;let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan off thefire; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thinslices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy; let the wholesimmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough andhard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

629. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade ofpounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin ofbeef; remove the outside brown and gristle; place the meat on one side, and well stew the bones and pieces, with the above ingredients, forabout 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rathermore than 1/2 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, and let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay in the meat, let itget hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with sippetsof toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 2d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashedpotatoes browned; in which case the sippets should be omitted. Becareful that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough. 

TO PREPARE HUNG BEEF. 

630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or withoutsmoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but takecare it does not begin to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, eitherby dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and alittle pepper and allspice; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth, andhang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight or more, tillit is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smokyflavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked inany other way: it will keep a long time. 

HUNTER'S BEEF. 

631. INGREDIENTS. --For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. Allow 3 oz. Ofsaltpetre, 3 oz. Of coarse sugar, 1 oz. Of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2oz. Of allspice, 1 lb. Of salt, 1/2 lb. Bay-salt. 

_Mode_. --Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Poundspices, salt, &c. In the above proportion, and let them be reduced tothe finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients wellinto it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it upsecurely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at thebottom; mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over thepan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and, whencold, remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it addsgreatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, &c. The beef may be glazed andgarnished with meat jelly. 

_Time_. --6 hours. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Note_. --In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, itnot being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, aless quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters moreadapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could notbe adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to bepreserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very greatdegree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impairits mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservativeeffect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart aflavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in impartingmildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one partby weight to four of the mixture; and, perhaps, now that sugar is somuch lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructionsto its more frequent use is removed. 

TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY. 

I. 

632. INGREDIENTS. --1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water tosoak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times; then put them on aclean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying-panwith some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown; season eachside with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in themiddle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon-juice andsugar. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

633. INGREDIENTS. --1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 1teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint ofgravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, andput it in a frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley andshalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, andfry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a littleflour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but notboil any more, or the kidney would harden; serve very hot, and garnishwith croûtons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it may beomitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it. _Time_. --From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Each. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

III. 

_A more Simple Method_. 

634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nicebrown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat, putting in a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, pepperand salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy justboil up, pour over the kidney, and serve. 

BOILED MARROW-BONES. 

635. INGREDIENTS. --Bones, a small piece of common paste, a flouredcloth. 

_Mode_. --Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and coverthe ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water. Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan ofboiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boilthem for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright ona napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bonesafter they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add aseasoning of pepper; when served in this manner, it must be veryexpeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in thepreceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2hours. 

[Illustration: MARROW-BONES. ]

 MARROW-BONES. --Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts; of which, phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a large bone, the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance, distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid, they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were brought into smaller compass, they would be weaker, because the strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, however, be observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones; such as the whale tribe, skate, and turtles. 

MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

636. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls ofgravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1/2 ateaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of leanroast beef. 

_Mode_. --Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine; addthe gravy, ale, and 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour to thicken; season withpepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until theonion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat _very fine_, add itto the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets oftoasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after themeat is added, as it would render it hard and tough. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MIROTON OF BEEF. 

637. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the coldbeef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirringthe ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add thegravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve veryhot. This dish is excellent and economical. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

STEWED OX-CHEEK. 

638. INGREDIENTS. --1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter andflour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, 1bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz. Of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chilivinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of portwine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce. 

_Mode_. --Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to beeaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water. The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stewpan. Justcover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmertill the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butterand flour, and put them into the gravy; add 2 whole onions, each stuckwith 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, 1 headof celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, blackpepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly tender; then take outthe cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain thegravy, and thicken 1-1/2 pint of it with butter and flour in the aboveproportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put in the piecesof cheek; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to tablein a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy should not be very good, add a tablespoonful of the browning, No. 108. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL. 

639. INGREDIENTS. --Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley, salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter. 

_Mode_. --Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them intopieces about 2 inches long; have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed witha little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the pieces of heel intothe yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them untilof a nice brown in boiling butter. 

_Time_. -1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

Note. --Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy orplainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, theliquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also togive richness to soups or gravies. 

STEWED OX-TAILS. 

640. INGREDIENTS. --2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 ateaspoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening ofbutter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful ofmushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into astewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire;when the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings, the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and let thetails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about 2-1/2hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it tothe gravy, and let it boil for 1/4 hour. Strain it through a sieve intoa saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup; let thewhole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croûtons or sippets oftoasted bread. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours to stew the tails. 

_Average cost_, 9d. To 1s. 6d. , according to the season. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

 THE TAILS OF ANIMALS. --In the class Mammalia, the vertebral column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this column, however, varies much, and the number of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column. Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all, --amongst certain bats for example; in other instances we reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones. Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some animals, it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression. Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms, with the hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for swimming. 

A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe). 

641. INGREDIENTS. --1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. Of coarse salt, 6 oz. Of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. Of saltpetre. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for1/2 hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the pickleinto a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and allow itto remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size. Itwill keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongueswill take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured; and, in salting meat, beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels. 

_Time_. --A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about amonth, and be turned every day. 

[Illustration: POTTING-JAR. ]

POTTED BEEF. 

I. 

642. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water, 1/4lb. Of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, andblack pepper. 

_Mode_. --Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible fromgristle, skin, &c. , and put it into a jar (if at hand, one with a lid)with 1 tablespoonful of water. Cover it _closely_, and put the jar intoa saucepan of boiling water, letting the water come within 2 inches ofthe top of the jar. Boil gently for 3-1/2 hours, then take the beef, chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly in amortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that willhave run from it, and a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, putit in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed andpoured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a shorttime; on the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it maybe preserved for some time. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

POTTED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery). 

II. 

643. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace. 

_Mode_. --As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices ofboiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very niceaddition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces andpound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar; add a seasoning ofcayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient isreduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughlymixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top acoating of clarified butter. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle anddry outside pieces, as these do not pound well. 

 PRESERVED MEATS. --When an organic substance, like the flesh of animals, is heated to the boiling-point, it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for two or three days, into a gelatinous mass; but it may be preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid, if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of industry, --namely, the preparation of preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at Bordeaux, at Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany, establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup, vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in such a manner that they retain their freshness for years. The prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four hours. The aliments thus acquire a stability, which one may almost say is eternal; and when a canister is opened, after the lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered in taste, colour, and smell. We are indebted to the French philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful practical application of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health; and, in former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives for the want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are sorry to say that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and, though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated. Dr. Lankester, who has done so much to expose the frauds of trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food, shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being starved or poisoned on their way home. 

RIB OF BEEF BONES. 

(_A Pretty Dish_. )

644. INGREDIENTS. --Rib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few slicesof carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --The bones for this dish should have left on them a slightcovering of meat; saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season them withpepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remainingingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve ona flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the bones, 2d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery). 

645. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of meatallow 3/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few choppedsavoury herbs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs, according to the quantity of meat. 

_Mode_. --Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mixwith this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the aboveproportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with 1 or2 eggs; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish thedish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some good browngravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy maybe poured in the dish, round the rissoles: in this case, it will not benecessary to send any in a tureen. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 5d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare. 

646. INGREDIENTS. --About 5 lbs. Of the inside of the sirloin, 2 glassesof port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of forcemeat (No. 417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice. 

_Mode_. --Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of portwine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. Make aforcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it upsecurely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glasseach of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of poundedallspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-currantjelly to table with it. 

_Time_. --A piece of 5 lbs. About 1-1/2 hour before a brisk fire. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

647. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoningto taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its ownfat; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs; put the wholeinto a roll of puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer, should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat, bymincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puffpaste in patty-tins. 

_Time_, --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (_An Excellent Dish for a Small Family_. )

648. INGREDIENTS. --From 5 to 10 lbs. Of rib of beef, sufficient brine tocover the meat. 

_Mode_. --Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt overthe inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and bind itwith tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine should bemade by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days, turning the meatevery day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle, and putthe meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes, when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gentlyuntil done. Remove the skewer, and replace it by a plated or silver one. Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiledwith the meat. 

_Time_. --A small round of 8 lbs. , about 2 hours after the water boils;one of 12 lbs. , about 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficienttime to salt it. 

BRISKET OF BEEF, a la Flamande. 

649. INGREDIENTS. --About 6 or 8 lbs. Of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt andpepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace. 

_Mode_. --Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle, trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon, whichshould be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or water;close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer very gentlyfor 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for sauce, andthe remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze, with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots andturnips, and when liked, a little cabbage; all of which must be cookedseparately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce, pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may also be garnished withglazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 FRENCH BEEF. --It has been all but universally admitted, that the beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however, one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to that of England. This is mere vaunting on the part of our neighbours, who seem to want _la gloire_ in everything; and we should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of small pretensions; but M. Curmer's book professes to be a complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery, and holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half suspect that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in the same way as did the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr. Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described. Mr. Lewis, in his "Physiology of Common Life, " has thus revived the story of the beef-eating son of France:--"A Frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did not find so inferior to that of England. 'I have been two times in England, ' he remarked, but I nevère find the bif so supérieur to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on leetle pieces of stick, for one penny: but I do not find the bif supérieur. ' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with astonishment, exclaimed, 'Good heavens, sir! you have been eating cat's meat. '" No, M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material. 

BEEF OLIVES. 

I. 

650. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful ofminced savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No. 105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce, aslight thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to makethem level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, andsprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced; season withpepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with a smallskewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for bybeing pressed together, they will keep their shape better; lay in therolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices, and overthat put a piece of paper. Stew them very _gently_ for full 2 hours; forthe slower they are done the better. Take them out, remove the skewers, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and flavour with any storesauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat, andserve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. Per pound. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

(_Economical_. )

651. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of underdone cold roast beef, breadcrumbs, 1 shalot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy madefrom the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful ofmushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inchthick; sprinkle over them some bread crumbs, minced shalot, and a littleof the fat and seasoning; roll them, and fasten with a small skewer. Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones; put in the pieces ofmeat, and stew them till tender, which will be in about 1-1/4 hour, orrather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavour thegravy, and pour it over the meat, when it is ready to serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the beef, 2d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BROILED OX-TAIL (an Entree). 

652. INGREDIENTS. --2 tails, 1-1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, salt andcayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces, andput them into a stewpan, with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and, ifliked very savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently forabout 2-1/2 hours; then take them out, drain them, and let them cool. Beat an egg upon a plate; dip in each piece of tail, and, afterwards, throw them into a dish of bread crumbs; broil them over a clear fire, until of a brownish colour on both sides, and serve with a good gravy, or any sauce that may be preferred. 

_Time_. --About 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, from 9d. To 1s. 6d. , according to the season. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --These may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in abrisk oven, after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb; and, when brown, they are done. They must be boiled the same time as forbroiling. 

 STRANGE TAILS. --Naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of the strange tails borne by animals. In the Egyptian and Syrian sheep, for instance, the tail grows so large, that it is not infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to prevent inconvenience to the animal. Thin monstrous appendage sometimes attains a weight of seventy, eighty, or even a hundred pounds. 

TO DRESS BEEF PALATES (an Entree). 

653. INGREDIENTS. --4 palates, sufficient gravy to cover them (No. 438), cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonfulof pickled-onion liquor, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Wash the palates, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficientwater to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly tender, or untilthe upper skin may be easily peeled off. Have ready sufficient gravy(No. 438) to cover them; add a good seasoning of cayenne, and thickenwith roux, No. 625, or a little butter kneaded with flour; let it boilup, and skim. Cut the palates into square pieces, put them in the gravy, and let them simmer gently for 1/2 hour; add ketchup and onion-liquor, give one boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --From 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournée, goodonion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a vol-au-vent; but theabove will be found a more simple method of dressing them. 

BEEF PICKLE, which may also be used for any kind of Meat, Tongues, orHams. 

654. INGREDIENTS. --6 lbs. Of salt, 2 lbs. Of fine sugar, 3 oz. Ofpowdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water. 

_Mode_. --Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any scumor impurity arises, which carefully remove; when quite cold, pour itover the meat, every part of which must be covered with the brine. Thismay be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be kept for sometime, if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the ingredients. 

_Time_. --A ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight; a piece ofbeef weighing 14 lbs. , 12 or 15 days; a tongue, 10 days or a fortnight. 

_Note_. --For salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in onlyhalf the quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day ortwo to disgorge and effectually to get rid of the blood and slime; thenrub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients, and proceed asabove. This rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given forsalting and pickling meat. 

TO PICKLE PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF FOR HANGING. 

655. INGREDIENTS. --For 14 lbs. Of a round of beef allow 1-1/2 lb. Ofsalt, 1/2 oz. Of powdered saltpetre; or, 1 lb. Of salt, 1/2 lb. Ofsugar, 4 oz. Of powdered saltpetre. 

_Mode_. --Rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on 14 lbs. Ofmeat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden tray, and turntwice a week during 3 weeks; then bind up the beef tightly with coarselinen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept, for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured in a similar way, butwill require double the quantity of the salting mixture; and, if notsmoke-dried, they should be taken down from hanging after 3 or 4 weeks, and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs, amongst dry oat-husks. 

_Time_. --2 or 3 weeks to remain in the brine; to be hung 3 weeks. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle, instead ofsmoking it. 

BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cookery). 

656. INGREDIENTS. --About 2 lbs. Of cold roast beef, 6 onions, pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste; 1/2 pint of boiling water, 3tablespoonfuls of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into astewpan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about 1/2 pint of boiling water, and gravy in the above proportion (gravy saved from the meat answers thepurpose); let the whole stew very gently for about 2 hours, and servewith pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed in the gravy. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. 

657. INGREDIENTS. --Beef, a little salt. 

_Mode_. ---The fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but themiddle-rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be well hung(should the weather permit), and cut off the thin ends of the bones, which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled. Put the meatdown to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into the pan, dredgethe joint with a little flour, and keep continually basting the wholetime. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this must never be done until thejoint is dished, as it draws the juices from the meat); pour thedripping from the pan, put in a little boiling: water slightly salted, and _strain_ the gravy over the meat. Garnish with tufts of scrapedhorseradish, and send horseradish sauce to table with it (_see_ No. 447). A Yorkshire pudding (_see_ Puddings) sometimes accompanies thisdish, and, if lightly made and well cooked, will be found a veryagreeable addition. 

_Time_. --10 lbs. Of beef, 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs. , from 3-1/2 to 4hours. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A joint of 10 lbs. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 MEMORANDA IN ROASTING. --The management of the fire is a point of primary importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the operation is absolutely necessary to insure a good result. When the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire may be small; but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the grate. Meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted fire, which may soon want recruiting; on the other hand, if the heat of the fire becomes too fierce, the meat must be removed to a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in their roasts, though they succeed in nearly everything else. A French writer on the culinary art says that anybody can learn how to cook, but one must be born a roaster. According to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be sufficiently roasted until it has acquired, throughout the whole mass, a temperature of 158°; but poultry may be well cooked when the inner parts hare attained a temperature of from 130° to 140°. This depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and mutton contain, the colouring matter of blood not being coagulable under 158°. 

ROAST RIBS OF BEEF, Boned and Rolled (a very Convenient Joint for aSmall Family). 

658. INGREDIENTS. --1 or 2 ribs of beef. 

_Mode_. --Choose a fine rib of beef, and have it cut according to theweight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat round, secure it with wooden skewers, and, if necessary, bind it round with apiece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack is used, putthe joint on the hook, and place it _near_ a nice clear fire. Let itremain so till the outside of the meat is set, when draw it to adistance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which canbe ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As thisjoint is solid, rather more than 1/4 hour must be allowed for each lb. Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint totable with gravy in the dish, and garnish with tufts of horseradish. Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great improvement to roast beef. 

_Time_. --For 10 lbs. Of the rolled ribs, 3 hours (as the joint is verysolid, we have allowed an extra 1/2 hour); for 6 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour. 

Average cost, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A joint of 10 lbs. For 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

_Note_. --When the weight exceeds 10 lbs. , we would not advise the abovemethod of boning and rolling; only in the case of 1 or 2 ribs, when thejoint cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. Thebones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs, and made intostock. 

 ROAST BEEF has long been a national dish in England. In most of our patriotic songs it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs, popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet of Frenchmen. 

 "O the roast beef of old England, And O the old English roast beef. "

 This national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer wishes to account for the valour displayed by Englishmen at sea or on land. 

ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 

659. INGREDIENTS. --Beef, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see thatit is well made up about 3/4 hour before it is required, so that whenthe joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin, the weight of which should not exceed 16 lbs. , as the outside would betoo much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough. Spit it orhook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, and placeit near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe. Thendraw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat isdone. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the dripping-panof all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly salted, stir itabout, and _strain_ over the meat. Garnish with tufts of horseradish, and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to table with it. Forcarving, _see_ p. 317. 

_Time_. --A sirloin of 10 lbs. , 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs. , about 4 or4-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A joint of 10 lbs. For 8 or 9 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

The rump, round, and other pieces of beef are roasted in the samemanner, allowing for solid joints; 1/4 hour to every lb. 

_Note_. ---The above is the usual method of roasting moat; but to have itin perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laidclose to the fire, and when the outside is set and firm, drawn away to agood distance, and then left to roast very slowly; where economy isstudied, this plan would not answer, as the meat requires to be at thefire double the time of the ordinary way of cooking; consequently, double the quantity of fuel would be consumed. 

 ORIGIN OF THE WORD "SIRLOIN. "--The loin of beef is said to have been knighted by King Charles II. , at Friday Hall, Chingford. The "Merry Monarch" returned to this hospitable mansion for Epping Forest literally "as hungry as a hunter, " and beheld, with delight, a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table. "A noble joint!" exclaimed the king. "By St. George, it shall have a title!" Then drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat, and cried, with mock dignity, "Loin, we dub thee knight; henceforward be Sir Loin!" This anecdote is doubtless apocryphal, although the oak table upon which the joint was supposed to hare received its knighthood, might have been seen by any one who visited Friday-Hill House, a few years ago. It is, perhaps, a pity to spoil so noble a story; but the interests of truth demand that we declare that _sirloin_ is probably a corruption of _surloin_, which signifies the upper part of a loin, the prefix _sur_ being equivalent to _over_ or _above_. In French we find this joint called _surlonge_, which so closely resembles our _sirloin_, that we may safely refer the two words to a common origin. 

TO SALT BEEF. 

660. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 round of beef, 4 oz. Of sugar, 1 oz. Of powderedsaltpetre, 2 oz. Of black pepper, 1/4 lb. Of bay-salt, 1/2 lb. Of commonsalt. _Mode_. --Rub the meat well with salt, and let it remain for a day, to disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day, rub it well with theabove ingredients on every side, and let it remain in the pickle forabout a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from thepickle, or smoked. 

_Time_. --1/2 round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight. _Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The aitch-bone, flank, or brisket may be salted and pickled byany of the recipes we have given for salting beef, allowing less timefor small joints to remain in the pickle; for instance, a joint of 8 or9 lbs. Will be sufficiently salt in about a week. 

THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF. 

661. INGREDIENTS. --10 lbs. Of lean beef, 1 lb. Of treacle, 1 oz. Ofsaltpetre, 1 lb. Of common salt. 

_Mode_. --Rub the beef well with the treacle, and let it remain for 3days, turning and rubbing it often; then wipe it, pound the salt andsaltpetre very fine, rub these well in, and turn it every day for 10days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth, and press it under a largeweight; have it smoked, and turn it upside down every day. Boil it, and, on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to press it. 

_Time_. --17 days. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF SAUSAGES. 

662. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of suet allow 2 lbs. Of lean beef;seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices. 

_Mode_. --Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the beef as finelyas possible; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the wholewell together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. Manypersons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped ( but this is notnecessary when the meat is minced finely. )

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BEEF-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, and Stuffed. 

663. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of rump-steak, forcemeat No. 417, pepper andsalt to taste, clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump of beef, and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make a forcemeatby recipe No. 417; spread it over _half_ of the steak; roll it up, bindand skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat may not escape, and roast itbefore a nice clear fire for about 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, shouldthe roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly basted with butter, and serve with brown gravy, some of which must be poured round thesteak, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best in winter. 

SLICED AND BROILED BEEF--a Pretty Dish (Cold Meat Cookery). 

664. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes, athin batter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple; fry the paringsin a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper, until they are of alight brown colour, and place them on a dish over some slices of beef, which should be nicely seasoned and broiled. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to broil the meat. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SPICED BEEF (to Serve Cold). 

665. INGREDIENTS. --14 lbs. Of the thick flank or rump of beef, 1/2 lb. Of coarse sugar, 1 oz. Of saltpetre, 1/4 lb. Of pounded allspice, 1 lb. Of common salt. 

_Mode_. --Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lay for 12 hours;then rub the saltpetre and allspice, both of which should be pounded, over the meat, and let it remain for another 12 hours; then rub in thesalt. Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, soak it for a few hoursin water, dry with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, put a littlewater at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the beef into adeep vessel, and cover with a plate, or it will be too crisp. During thetime the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or twice. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BAKING MEAT. --Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat, rendering it less savoury and less agreeable than meat which has been roasted. "Those who have travelled in Germany and France, " writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific authors, "must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in the flavour, or want of flavour, of the various 'roasts' served up at the _table-d'hôte_. " The general explanation is, that the German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of England and Holland, owing to the inferiority of pasturage; and doubtless this is one cause, but it is not the chief cause. The meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at fault. The meat is scarcely ever _roasted_, because there is no coal, and firewood is expensive. The meat is therefore _baked;_ and the consequence of this baking is, that no meat is eatable or eaten, with its own gravy, but is always accompanied by some sauce more or less piquant. The Germans generally believe that in England we eat our beef and mutton almost raw; they shudder at our gravy, as if it were so much blood. 

STEWED BEEF or RUMP STEAK (an Entree). 

666. INGREDIENTS. --About 2 lbs. Of beef or rump steak, 3 onions, 2turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 do. Of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1tablespoonful of flour. 

_Mode_. --Have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean; dividethem into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter a nicebrown on both sides. Cleanse and pare the vegetables, cut the onions andcarrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these inthe same fat that the steaks were done in. Put all into a saucepan, add1/2 pint of water, or rather more should it be necessary, and simmervery gently for 2-1/2 or 3 hours; when nearly done, skim well, add salt, pepper, and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with atablespoonful of flour mixed with 2 of cold water. Let it boil up for aminute or two after the thickening is added, and serve. When avegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fancifulshapes, and tomato, Harvey's sauce, or walnut-liquor may be used toflavour the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so thatthe fat may be taken off when cold; when wanted for table, it willmerely require warming through. 

_Time_. --3 hours. Average cost, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

667. INGREDIENTS. --3 roots of celery, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436, 2 onionssliced, 2 lbs. Of cold roast or boiled beef. 

_Mode_. --Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a stew-pan, withthe gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is tender, when addthe beef cut into rather thick pieces; stew gently for 10 minutes, andserve with fried potatoes. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to January. 

STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

668. INGREDIENTS. --A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 2oz. Of butter, 1 onion sliced, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 glass ofport wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, rather morethan 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of beef;brown them lightly in a stewpan, with the butter and a little water; add1/2 pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, and cover the stewpanclosely, and let it simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; then mix about ateaspoonful of flour smoothly with a little of the liquor; add the portwine and oysters, their liquor having been previously strained and putinto the stewpan; stir till the oysters plump, and serve. It should notboil after the oysters are added, or they will harden. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF. 

669. INGREDIENTS. --7 lbs. Of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt, 6carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 wholeallspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls ofketchup; stock, or water. 

_Mode_. --About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over withvinegar and salt; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient stock to coverit (when this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it), and beparticular that the stewpan is not much larger than the meat. Skim well, and when it has simmered very gently for 1 hour, put in the vegetables, and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender. Draw out thebones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower orbraised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy as required, witha little butter and flour; add spices and ketchup in the aboveproportion, give one boil, pour some of it over the meat, and theremainder send in a tureen. 

_Time_. --rather more than 3 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may beserved as a soup, or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen. 

STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. 

670. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 rump of beef, sufficient stock to cover it (No. 105), 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1 largebunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne (thismust be sparingly used), and bind and tie it firmly up with tape; put itinto a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above proportion, and simmer very gently for 4 or 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectlytender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer. Whendone, remove the tape, lay it into a deep dish, which keep hot; strainand skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add a glass ofport wine and any flavouring to make the gravy rich and palatable; letit boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. This dish may be very muchenriched by garnishing with forcemeat balls, or filling up the spacewhence the bone is taken with a good forcemeat; sliced carrots, turnips, and onions boiled with the meat, are also a great improvement, and, where expense is not objected to, it may be glazed. This, however, isnot necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat. 

_Time_. --1/2 rump stewed gently from 4 to 5 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat, may be made of thebone and trimmings, by boiling them with water, and adding carrots, onions, turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richerand more savoury, half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew it in strongstock and a little Madeira. This is an expensive method, and is not, after all, much better than a plainer-dressed joint. 

 THE BARON OF BEEF. --This noble joint, which consisted of two sirloins not cut asunder, was a favourite dish of our ancestors. It is rarely seen nowadays; indeed, it seems out of place on a modern table, as it requires the grim boar's head and Christmas pie as supporters. Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at which the baron of beef would have appeared to great advantage. We will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when "England was merry England, " and when hospitality was thought to be the highest virtue. 

 "The fire, with well-dried logs supplied, Went roaring up the chimney wide; The huge hall-table's oaken face, Scrubb'd till it shone, the day to grace, Bore then, upon its massive board, No mark to part the squire and lord. Then was brought in the lusty brawn, By old blue-coated serving-man; Then the grim boar's head frown'd on high, Crested with bays and rosemary. Well can the green-garb'd ranger tell How, when, and where the monster fell; What dogs before his death he tore, And all the baiting of the boar; While round the merry wassel bowl, Garnish'd with ribbons, blithe did trowl. There the huge sirloin reek'd; hard by Plum-porridge stood, and Christmas pie; Nor fail'd old Scotland to produce, At such high tide, her savoury goose. "

 When a lord's son came of age, in the olden time, the baron of beef was too small a joint, by many degrees, to satisfy the retainers who would flock to the hall; a whole ox was therefore generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs. We may here mention, that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen Thames, in the early part of the present century. 

STEWED SHIN OF BEEF. 

671. INGREDIENTS. --A shin of beef, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a faggotof savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of wholeblack pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, thickening ofbutter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfulsof port wine; pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Have the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water, bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice, and seasoning, and simmer verygently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables, cut them into anyshape fancy may dictate, and boil them with the onions until tender;lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keep hot, and thicken withbutter and flour as much of the liquor as will be wanted for gravy; keepstirring till it boils, then strain and skim. Put the gravy back in thestewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, and ketchup, give one boil, andpour it over the beef; garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips, andonions. 

_Time_. --The meat to be stewed about 4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. Perlb. With bone. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely but Savoury Dish). 

672. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of rump-steak, 1 sheep's kidney, pepper andsalt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfulsof flour, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces, andput them into a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper; mixthe flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent its beinglumpy; add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which should be well beaten;put in the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and pour it overthe steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately, and bake for1-1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substitutedfor the steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible quantity of mincedonion or shalot may be added. 

BOILED TONGUE. 

673. INGREDIENTS. --1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water. 

_Mode_. --In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried orpickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its beingyoung and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least for12 hours previous to cooking it; if, however, it is fresh from thepickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in sock. Putthe tongue in a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savouryherbs; let it gradually come to a boil, skim well and simmer very gentlyuntil tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliflowers orBrussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent to tablewith boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is, by many persons, preferred. If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board bysticking a fork through the root, and another through the top, tostraighten it. When cold, glaze it, and put a paper ruche round theroot, and garnish with tufts of parsley. 

_Time_. --A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4-1/2 hours; a small one, 2-1/2 to3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3-1/2 hours; a small one, 2 to2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, for a moderate sized tongue, 3s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO CURE TONGUES. 

I. 

674. INGREDIENTS. --For a tongue of 7 lbs. , 1 oz. Of saltpetre, 1/2 oz. Of black pepper, 4 oz. Of sugar, 3 oz. Of juniper berries, 6 oz. Ofsalt. 

_Mode_. --Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let itremain in the pickle for 10 days or a fortnight; then drain it, tie itup in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a woodfire; or it may be boiled out of this pickle. 

_Time_. --From 10 to 14 days to remain in the pickle; to be smoked 24days. 

_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --If not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep 3 or 4 weekswithout being too salt; then it must not be rubbed, but only turned inthe pickle. 

II. 

675. INGREDIENTS. --9 lbs. Of salt, 8 oz. Of sugar, 9 oz. Of powderedsaltpetre. 

_Mode_. --Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep themin this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain themfrom the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them smoked for about3 weeks. 

_Time_. --The tongues to remain in pickle 2 months; to be smoked 3 weeks. 

_Sufficient_. --The above quantity of brine sufficient for 12 tongues, of5 lbs. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: BEEF TONGUE. ]

 THE TONGUES OF ANIMALS. --The tongue, whether in the ox or in man, is the seat of the sense of taste. This sense warns the animal against swallowing deleterious substances. Dr. Carpenter says, that, among the lower animals, the instinctive perceptions connected with this sense, are much more remarkable than our own; thus, an omnivorous monkey will seldom touch fruits of a poisonous character, although their taste may be agreeable. However this may be, man's instinct has decided that ox-tongue is better than horse-tongue; nevertheless, the latter is frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The horse's tongue may be readily distinguished by a spoon-like expansion at its end. 

TO PICKLE AND DRESS A TONGUE TO EAT COLD. 

676. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of salt, 2 oz. Of bay-salt, 1 oz. Of saltpetre, 3 oz. Of coarse sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; butter, common crust of flour and water. 

_Mode_. --Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn itevery day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded; put itinto a small pan just large enough to hold it, place some pieces ofbutter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven untilso tender that a straw would penetrate it; take off the skin, fasten itdown to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and anotherthrough the tip, at the same time straightening it and putting it intoshape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, which isgenerally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley. 

_Time_. --From 3 or 4 hours in a slow oven, according to size. 

_Average cost_, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO DRESS TRIPE. 

677. INGREDIENTS. --Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk and water. 

_Mode_. --Ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleanedand dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal proportionsof milk and water for 3/4 hour. Should the tripe be entirely undressed, more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have ready someonion sauce made by recipe No. 4S4, dish the tripe, smother it with thesauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --1 hour: for undressed tripe, from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways: it may be cut inpieces and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut intocollops, sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs, and fried a nicebrown in clarified butter. 

BEEF CARVING. 

AITCHBONE OF BEEF. 

A boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as willbe seen on reference to the accompanying engraving. By following withthe knife the direction of the line from 1 to 2, nice slices will beeasily cut. It may be necessary, as in a round of beef, to cut a thickslice off the outside before commencing to serve. 

[Illustration]

BRISKET OF BEEF. 

There is but little description necessary to add, to show the carving ofa boiled brisket of beef, beyond the engraving here inserted. The onlypoint to be observed is, that the joint should be cut evenly and firmlyquite across the bones, so that, on its reappearance at table, it shouldnot have a jagged and untidy look. 

[Illustration]

RIBS OF BEEF. 

This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet orundercut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off, salted and boiled. The mode of carving is similar to that of thesirloin, viz. , in the direction of the dotted line from 1 to 2. Thisjoint will be the more easily cut if the plan be pursued which issuggested in carving the sirloin; namely, the inserting of the knifeimmediately between the bone and the moat, before commencing to cut itinto slices. All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thinslices. Horseradish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish; buthorseradish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef. 

[Illustration]

SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 

This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it tocome to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, theundercut, uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that mostusually adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten when hot;consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint, and cut someslices from the under side, in the direction of from 1 to 2, as thefillet is very much preferred by some eaters. The upper part of thesirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and careshould be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices. It will be founda great assistance, in carving this joint well, if the knife be firstinserted just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply alongbetween the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone inthe same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come awaymore readily. 

[Illustration]

Some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across, as shown by theline from 3 to 4; but this is a wasteful plan, and one not to berecommended. With the sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish isusually served, and a little given, when liked, to each guest. Horseradish sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate, although the scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish. 

[Illustration]

A ROUND OF BEEF. 

A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef, and to manage it properly, a thin-bladed and very sharp knife isnecessary. Off the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick sliceshould first be cut, so as to leave the surface smooth; then thin andeven slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line 1 to2; and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel of the fat shouldbe served. 

[Illustration]

BEEF TONGUE. 

Passing the knife down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a not too thinslice should be helped; and the carving of a tongue may be continued inthis way until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fatwhich lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning thetongue, and cutting in the direction of from 3 to 4. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XIV. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB. 

678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, withoutexception, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary tohis health and comfort; for it not only supplies him with the lightestand most nutritious of meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udderyields him milk, cream, and a sound though inferior cheese; while fromits fat he obtains light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere, blankets, gloves, and hose. Its bones when burnt make an animalcharcoal--ivory black--to polish his boots, and when powdered, a manurefor the cultivation of his wheat; the skin, either split or whole, ismade into a mat for his carriage, a housing for his horse, or a liningfor his hat, and many other useful purposes besides, being extensivelyemployed in the manufacture of parchment; and finally, when oppressed bycare and sorrow, the harmonious strains that carry such soothingcontentment to the heart, are elicited from the musical strings, prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep. 

679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to maintain anaverage stock of 32, 000, 000, belongs to the class already indicatedunder the ox, --the _Mammalia_; to the order of _Rumenantia_, orcud-chewing animal; to the tribe of _Capridae_, or horned quadrupeds;and the genus _Ovis_, or the "sheep. " The sheep may be either with orwithout horns; when present, however, they have always this peculiarity, that they spring from a triangular base, are spiral in form, andlateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The fleece of the sheepis of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly; the woolalways preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, andamount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The genericpeculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of thehorns, always larger in the male when present, but absent in the mostcultivated species; having sinuses at the base of all the toes of thefour feet, with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinalteats to the udder, with a short tail in the wild breed, but of varyinglength in the domesticated; have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw, butin their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum, onwhich the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds; in thelower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side ofboth jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two coats, oneto keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water withoutwetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of whichdepend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock;the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is inexcess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattentionwith which the animal is treated. 

680. THE GREAT OBJECT OF THE GRAZIER is to procure an animal that willyield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time; or, in otherwords, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and finefleece. All sheep will not do this alike; some, like men, are sorestless and irritable, that no system of feeding, however good, willdevelop their frames or make them fat. The system adopted by the breederto obtain a valuable animal for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacityand functions of the digestive organs, and reduce those of the head andchest, or the mental and respiratory organs. In the first place, themind should be tranquillized, and those spaces that can never produceanimal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as in the abdomen, for those that can. And as nothing militates against the fatteningprocess so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is tofind a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself, leaping his wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambolsof his silly companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, andthen seeking a shady nook, indolently and luxuriously chows his cud withclosed eyes and blissful satisfaction, only rising when his deliciousrepast is ended, to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat thepleasing process of laying in more provender, and then returning to hisdreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination. Such animalsare said to have a _lymphatic_ temperament, and are of so kindly anature, that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily. TheLeicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contentedanimal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits, of therestless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland countieswould take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while oneday's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage wouldprobably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-windedLeicester. 

681. THE MORE REMOVED FROM THE NATURE of the animal is the food on whichit lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and themore complex the chain of digestive organs; for it must be evident toall, that the same apparatus that converts _flesh_ into _flesh_, ishardly calculated to transmute _grass_ into flesh. As the process ofdigestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple, these organs arefound to be remarkably short, seldom exceeding the length of theanimal's body; while, where digestion is more difficult, from theunassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant order, thealimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is _twenty-seven timesthe length of the body. _ The digestive organ in all ruminant animalsconsists of _four stomachs_, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided bydoorways and valves into four compartments, called, in their order ofposition, the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. Whenthe sheep nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, heis, in fact, only preparing the raw material of his meal, in realityonly mowing the pasture, which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly, passing into the first receptacle, the _paunch_, where it is surroundedby a quantity of warm saliva, in which the herbage undergoes a processof maceration or softening, till the animal having filled thiscompartment, the contents pass through a valve into the second orsmaller bag, --the _reticulum_, where, having again filled the paunchwith a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular processof chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he hascollected. By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a smallquantity of this softened food from the _reticulum_, or second bag, ispassed into the mouth, which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep togrind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp, the operation beingfurther assisted by a flow of saliva, answering the double purpose ofincreasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of themass. Having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful, it isswallowed a second time; but instead of returning to the paunch orreticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity, --the_omasum_, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, itglides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch, --the _abomasum_, an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach ofanimals, and where the process of digestion, begun and carried on in theprevious three, is here consummated, and the nutrient principle, bymeans of the bile, eliminated from the digested aliment. Such is theprocess of digestion in sheep and oxen. 

682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkablea degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as theLeicestershire sheep; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds inquality, are, in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal'snature, not equal to it in that respect, though in both the brain andchest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs ofdigestion. Besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces, the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in thoseparts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called in thetrade "prime joints;" and so far has this been effected, that thecomparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a testof quality in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopencea pound more for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are thehind quarters of mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-endbutchers never deal in any other part of the sheep. 

683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH in various breeds is awell-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness; andthat the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences theflavour of the meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation inwhich those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath ofBamstead in Sussex. It is also a well-established truth, that the_larger_ the frame of the animal, the _coarser_ is the meat, and that_small bones_ are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and thedelicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in determining thequality of the meat; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre, deeperin colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than inthe female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion;but probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they arereared, has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality andtenderness of the meat. 

684. THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES of sheep inhabiting the different regions ofthe earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four, species: the _Ovis Amman_, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock ofall the rest; the _Ovis Tragelaphus_, the bearded sheep of Africa; the_Ovis Musmon_, the Musmon of Southern Europe; and the _Ovis Montana_, the Mouflon of America; though it is believed by many naturalists thatthis last is so nearly identical with the Indian Argali as to beundeserving a separate place. It is still a controversy to which ofthese three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication;the Argali, however, by general belief, has been considered as the most_probable_ progenitor of the present varieties. 

685. THE EFFECTS PRODUCED BY CHANGE OF CLIMATE, accident, and othercauses, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physicalalteration as the primitive Argali must have undergone before theMusmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the _immediate_ progenitor of all ourEuropean breeds, assumed his present appearance. The Argali is about afifth larger in size than the ordinary English sheep, and being a nativeof a tropical clime, his fleece is of hair instead of wool, and of awarm reddish brown, approaching to yellow; a thick mane of darker hair, about seven inches long, commences from two long tufts at the angle ofthe jaws, and, running _under_ the throat and neck, descends down thechest, dividing, at the fore fork, into two parts, one running down thefront of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the characterof the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping inwards, terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends in atuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, theFrench have given the species the name of _Mouflon à manchettes_. Fromthe primitive stock _eleven_ varieties have been reared in this country, of the domesticated sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possesssome one or more special qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetlandor Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, orDevonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned, of Norfolk the Ryeland; South-Down;the Merino; the Old Leicester, and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, haveof late years been epitomized; and, for all useful and practicalpurposes, reduced to the following four orders:--

686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT. 

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM. ]

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN EWE. ]

687. SOUTH-DOWNS. --It appears, as far as our investigation can trace thefact, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history inEngland, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through thesouth-west and south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as theSouth-Downs, has been famous for a superior race of sheep; and we findthe Romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester, where they may be said to terminate, which rose to such estimation, fromthe fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth, that the produce waskept as only worthy to clothe emperors. From this, it may be inferredthat sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract. Thoughboasting so remote a reputation, it is comparatively within late yearsthat the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed hasbeen effected, the South-Down new ranking, for symmetry of shape, constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in the kingdom. TheSouth-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from two to threeinches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour. Itis, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. Amarked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higherthan the fore, the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds. 

[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM. ]

[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE. ]

688. THE LEICESTER. --It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. RobertBakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock ofsheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flockwhich has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicesteris regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, veryproductive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, coveredwith short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye, long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. Themeat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of theSouth-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weightof carcase from 90 to 100 lbs. 

[Illustration: HEATH RAM. ]

[Illustration: HEATH EWE. ]

689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP. --This is the most hardy of allour native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face andlegs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the topof the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool thanon the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and whatshepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, andwell open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. Thewool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16lbs. 

690. THE CHEVIOT. --From the earliest traditions, these hills in theNorth, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race oflarge-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physicaladvantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, andcapability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns, face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throatand neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated. The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to thehough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in thechest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs. 

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM. ]

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE. ]

691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowlandmoor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex, has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind ofsheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famousfor a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especiallyfor size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is calledthickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminenceover every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish menwith the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted anycrossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and fromthe Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in aneminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed wasactually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock didnot consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were readyfor the market a _year_ sooner; that the fat formed more on the exteriorof the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, ratherthan as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal;and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour, finer, and possessed of superior felting properties. 

692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact, with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staplequality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, thechest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendencyto fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The RomneyMarsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect ofperfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, andgenerally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep. 

693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders, according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; afterweaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, orteg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, ashearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three, or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. Thefemale is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes, according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg;after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future atwo, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave. 

694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditiousa process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animalbeing laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, whilepressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle ofthe jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck;thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death beingvery rapid from such a hemorrhage. 

[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS. ]

695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or, as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is verysimple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (whichoperation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and thehead removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numeralsindicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut. After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs tothe latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown inthe sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the interveninglines and figures. _Hind quarter_: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin--the two, when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. _Fore quarter_: No. 3, the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, thescrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower andbetter joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often servedat public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg andso much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on theupper part of the carcase by a dotted line. 

696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defencelesscondition, must very early have attached it to man for motives lessselfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been provedbeyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptibleof a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many partsof Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, itis no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by itsname, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland, when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known toform the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line, keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatchedhim with their horns. 

697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adamin his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for hisbody, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abelintrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tellsus that "Abel was a keeper of sheep. " What other animals weredomesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exactperiod the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, isequally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though someauthorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose thatwhen Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof, " as asacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardlylikely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adamand his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile thefact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as theyare reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and thecoverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of theanimals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblationsonly, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessarypurposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten tillafter the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. FromScriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards thesheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most deliciousportion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisitemorsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especiallyfit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably inferthat the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, andknown as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs, though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; asupposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that theram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was ahorned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so farproving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailedsheep appertaining to the same family. 

LAMBS. 

698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences inMarch, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please theappetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however, the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather wouldendanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, itis customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter ofstables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow'smilk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary togive the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in theopen air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poorlands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not tillthe close of the fourth--sometimes longer. 

699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in thetissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much moreprone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than theflesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton. Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of theSouth-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those whichhave been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, areconsidered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on themilk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fedlamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of theothers. 

[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB. ]

700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is inLondon, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribsto the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdividedinto two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consistingof the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and theloin, --as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from thejuicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourableweather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisturethat may form on it. 

701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs bywhich the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinionwhether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the jointspossess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat. The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright anddilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter canalways be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, orvein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm, compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive mannerfor the integrity of the hind-quarter. 

702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON. --1, 1. Ribs; 2. Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1, 2, 3. Fore Quarter. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XV. 

BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). 

703. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, 1 or 2onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades ofpounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed potatoes. 

_Mode_. --Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour;add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced andwell mixed; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace ornutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer ofmashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and thenanother layer of potatoes, and bake for about 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onionsinstead of 1. 

BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE. 

704. INGREDIENTS. --Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls ofminced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley), pepper andsalt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut off the superfluous fat; bone it; sprinkle over a layer ofbread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning; roll, and bind it up firmly. Boil _gently_ for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper sauce, No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 

705. INGREDIENTS. --Mutton, water, salt. 

_Mode_. --A. Leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as itwill not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trimthe knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficientboiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to theside of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne inthe water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water maygently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or themeat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of muttonwill be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiledwith the meat, and send caper sauce (No. 382) to table with it in atureen. 

_Time_. --A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs. , 2-1/4 hours after thewater boils; one of 12 lbs. , 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, andAugust. 

_Note_. --When meat is liked very _thoroughly_ cooked, allow more timethan stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should beconverted into soup. 

 THE GOOD SHEPHERD. --The sheep's complete dependence upon the shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently referred to in the Bible; thus the Psalmist likens himself to a lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant; and our Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach the Gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren, compares them to lambs going amongst wolves. The shepherd of the East, by kind treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by which he calls them, and they follow him in and out of the fold. The beautiful figure of the "good shepherd, " which so often occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the Saviour for mankind. "The good shepherd giveth his life for the sheep. "--_John_, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd, and know my sheep, and am known by mine. "--_John_, x. 14. "And other sheep I have which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and they shall hear my voice: and there shall be one fold and one shepherd. "--_John_, x. 16. 

BONED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED. 

706. INGREDIENTS. --A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs. , forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced. 

_Mode_. --Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling theskin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence thebone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to preventits falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before anice clear fire for about 2-1/2 hours or rather longer; remove the tapeand send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, aspreferred. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 4s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with French Beans. 

707. INGREDIENTS. --The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered paper, French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have ready someFrench beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve; remove the paper from themutton, glaze it; just heat up the beans in the gravy, and lay them onthe dish with the meat over them. The remainder of the gravy may bestrained, and sent to table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON--Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat most generally used in families; and, both by connoisseurs and medical men, it stands first in favour, whether its the favour, digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be considered. Of all mutton, that furnished by South-Down sheep is the most highly esteemed; it is also the dearest, on account of its scarcity, and the great demand of it. Therefore, if the housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his shop, it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser. The London and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and Lincoln or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of mutton than the true South-Downs, and, for this very desirable qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-masters. The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. In weight; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs. ; and if care is taken not to purchase it; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about 8 to 9 lbs. ; and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat, it will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that can be bought. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. 

708. INGREDIENTS. --1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggotof savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper andsalt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, 1/2 pint of gravy orwater. 

_Mode_. --Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon, put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and overthese place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of baconand the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very gentlyfor 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire, glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish ofwhite haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions. 

_Time_. --4 hours. Average cost, 5s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE. --This order of knighthood was founded by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the day of his marriage with the Princess Isabella of Portugal. The number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one, including the sovereign, as the head and chief of the institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X. Consented to increase the number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700 the German emperor Charles VI. And King Philip of Spain both laid claim to the order. The former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could not maintain by force of arms, took with him, to Vienna, the archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized there in 1713, with great magnificence; but Philip V. Of Spain declared himself Grand Master, and formally protested, at the congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions of the emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the intercession of France, England, and Holland, was frequently renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced into both countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece, " according to the country where it is issued. 

AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON. 

709. INGREDIENTS. --Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas. 

_Mode_. --Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let it betolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter, andfry it of a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice the onions, and put it with the herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient water_just_ to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the muttonis tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from thegravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan; add abouta quart of young green peas, and let them boil gently until done. 2 or 3slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additionalflavour; and, to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour, theymay be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the momentof serving. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August. 

 NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN. --The names of all our domestic animals are of Saxon origin; but it is curious to observe that Norman names have been given to the different sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beautifully this illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the Conquest. The Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding the domestic animals, but only that they might appear on the table of his Norman lord. Thus 'ox, ' 'steer, ' 'cow, ' are Saxon, but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, but 'veal' Norman; 'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' Norman; so it is severally with 'deer' and 'venison, ' 'swine' and 'pork, ' 'fowl' and 'pullet. ' 'Bacon, ' the only flesh which, perhaps, ever came within his reach, is the single exception. 

BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

710. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce, No. 529. 

_Mode_. --Cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton;season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make sometomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. Thismakes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes to broil the mutton. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful andseasonable. 

 SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS. --The shepherd's crook is older than either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword. We are told that Abel was a keeper of sheep. Many passages in holy writ enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern nations; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks, when we read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field, and that the king of Israel received a hundred thousand every year from the king of Moab, his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their fleece. The tendency which most sheep have to ramble, renders it necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd. To keep a flock within bounds, is no easy task; but the watchful shepherd manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the Highlands of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, the sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be watched over by many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish landowners are of enormous extent. "How many sheep have you on your estate?" asked Prince Esterhazy of the duke of Argyll. "I have not the most remote idea, " replied the duke; "but I know the shepherds number several thousands. "

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 

711. INGREDIENTS. --Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece ofbutter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton, remove aportion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape; slightly beat andlevel them; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the barswith a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequentlyturn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepperand salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter oneach chop, and serve very hot and expeditiously. 

_Time_. --About 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 chop to each person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHINA CHILO. 

712. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions, 2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonfulof pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. Of clarified butter; when liked, alittle cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck ofmutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced; put it into a stewpanwith the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce andonion rather fine; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients havebeen well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours. Servein a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for curry. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August. 

CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). 

713. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2 onions, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonfulof flour, salt to taste, 1/4 pint of stock or water. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpanwith the butter, and fry of a light brown; stir in the curry powder, flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice thinslices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), andadd it to the other ingredients; when well browned, add the stock orgravy, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Serve in a dish with a borderof boiled rice, the same as for other curries. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). 

714. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg, bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529). 

_Mode_. --Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets, trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too much;dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry them anice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and pour round themeither a good gravy or hot tomato sauce. 

_Time_. --About 7 minutes. 

_Seasonable_. --Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September andOctober. 

DORMERS. 

715. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of cold mutton, 2 oz. Of beef suet, pepperand salt to taste, 3 oz. Of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, madegravy. 

_Mode_. --Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely; mix well together, andadd a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages; coverthem with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown. Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a little in atureen. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to fry the sausages. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE GOLDEN FLEECE. --The ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may be thus briefly told:--Phryxus, a son of Athamus, king of Thebes, to escape the persecutions of his stepmother Ino, paid a visit to his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most obliging manner to the court of his friend. When safe At Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of Mars, and pocketed the fleece. The king received him with great kindness, and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage; but, some time after, he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply revenged by the Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition, undertaken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of Greece. The Argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell desperately in love with the gallant but faithless Jason. In the story of the voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably exists, though overlaid by a mass of fiction. The ram which carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been the name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the transmutation of metals, written on sheepskin. 

HARICOT MUTTON. 

I. 

716. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of the middle or best end of the neck ofmutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, popper and salt to taste, 1tablespoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce. 

_Mode_. --Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thinchops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry of apale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the carrots andturnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly fry them inthe same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not allow them totake any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then thevegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to coverthe whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on the side ofthe fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Skim off everyparticle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a littleketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day beforeit is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removedwhen the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as itis apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made. Itshould be served in rather a deep dish. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours to simmer gently. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

717. INGREDIENTS. --Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and salt totaste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade ofmace, carrots and turnips, sugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice colour;then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water, adding theonion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer gently till themeat is nearly done, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots andturnips, which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a littlesugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for 10 minutes; takeout the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 3 hours to simmer. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). 

718. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonfulof mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off thefat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter, of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let itstew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until_nearly_ tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 1/4 hourbefore it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchupand port wine, give one boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

HASHED MUTTON. 

719. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton, 6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 headof celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. Of butter, flour. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming offall superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of thejoint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, andcelery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onionof a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick, and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 1/4 hour, strain the gravy, andlet it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with themeat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey's sauce; tomatosauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meatgradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meatproperly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the firejust long enough to warm through. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to simmer the gravy. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 HASHED MUTTON. --Many persons express a decided aversion to hashed mutton; and, doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it ought to be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant and well flavoured, and the sippets nicely toasted, and the whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means to be despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than the cold leg or shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and their bachelor friends, stand in such natural awe. 

HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

720. INGREDIENTS. --About 1 lb. Of underdone cold mutton, 2 lettuces, 1pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. Of butter, pepper andsalt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of water. 

_Mode_. --Mince the mutton, and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices. Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the peas, andlet these simmer very gently for 3/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the end of May to August. 

IRISH STEW. 

I. 

721. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. Ofpotatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neckof mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare and halvethe potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a layer ofpotatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton and onions, and season with pepper and salt; proceed in this manner until thestewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top. Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2-1/2 hours, keepingthe lid of the stewpan closely shut the _whole_ time, and occasionallyshaking it to prevent its burning. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --More suitable for a winter dish. 

II. 

722. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 lbs. Of the breast of mutton, 1-1/2 pint ofwater, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. Of potatoes, 4 large onions. 

_Mode_. --Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt, and let it stew gently for an hour; cut the meat into small pieces, skimthe fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes and onions. Putall the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first a layer ofvegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and saltbetween each layer; cover closely, and let the whole stew very gentlyfor 1 hour of rather more, shaking it frequently to prevent its burning. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for a winter dish. 

_Note_. --Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, butbaked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in amoderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it. 

ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS. 

723. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 lbs. Of the neck of mutton, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful ofminced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonfulof minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfulsof tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, andtrim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, intothe beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs, parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, andcover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in afrying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them, out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the pan, and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till itlooks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remainingingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravyshould not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, whenobtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not inseason, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them. 

_Time_. --10 minutes;--rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE DOWNS. --The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals, forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of England. The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey. The North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded summits, and their smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The coombes and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets. From time immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of the hills fails. The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair. 

BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish). 

724. INGREDIENTS. --Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open veryevenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thickerthan the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the whitepart of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on avery hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece ofbutter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send veryhot plates to table. 

_Time_. --6 to 8 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 for each person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving thekidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape. Inthis case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement. 

[Illustration: KIDNEYS. ]

FRIED KIDNEYS. 

725. INGREDIENTS. --Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove theskin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butteris melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done. Serve on a pieceof dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece ofbutter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and servevery hot. 

_Time_. --7 or 8 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 kidney to each person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON. ]

726. INGREDIENTS. --Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour. 

_Mode_. --Let this joint hang as long as possible without becomingtainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off theflies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, thejoint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher orthe cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest itshould have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down toa nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warmthrough. Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it isserved, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle alittle fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a littleboiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place apaper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in atureen to table with it. 

_Time_. --About 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --In best season from September to March. 

 HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY. --If the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it. It often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d. Or 1-1/2d. Per lb. , and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs. , will be saved enough to buy 2 quartern loaves. It frequently happens with many butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be glad to sell at a reduction. 

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON. ]

727. INGREDIENTS. --Leg of mutton, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almostas long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for afew days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it verydry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire, dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it iscooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to getnicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour offthe dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over thejoint, and serve. 

_Time_. --A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs. , about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours;one of 7 lbs. , about 2 hours, or rather less. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August. 

ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON. 

728. INGREDIENTS. --Loin of mutton, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcherjoints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to thecarver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it neednot be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, andbaste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, and serve very hot. 

[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON. ]

_Time_. --A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent). 

729. INGREDIENTS. --About 6 lbs. Of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful ofpepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace, 1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of portwine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over itpepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, allof which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make aforcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bindit up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take offthe fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in thegravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbindit, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pourover the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a fewmushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a greatimprovement. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently. 

_Average cost_, 4s. 9d. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, ashere directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and servedwith a good gravy and currant jelly. 

BOILED NECK OF MUTTON. 

730. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of the middle, or best end of the neck ofmutton; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and ifit is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, theribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; thisis, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ waterto cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so coolthat the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gentlyuntil the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rathermore, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer. 

Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of itover the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, whenat hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These, however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready. Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round themutton. 

_Time_. --4 lbs. Of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2 d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE POETS ON SHEEP. --The keeping of flocks seems to have been the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of poetry was probably pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in singing. In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the "fleecy flocks, " the "milk-white lambs, " and "the tender ewes;" indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only to that of the shepherds who tend them. The "nibbling sheep" has ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with figures and similes without end. Shakspere frequently compares men to sheep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of Henry VI. , the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness;--

 "So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf: So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece, And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife. "

 In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona, " we meet with the following humorous comparison:--

 "_Proteus_. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee; therefore, thou art a sheep. 

 "_Speed_. Such another proof will make me cry _baa_. "

 The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep. Every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's "Seasons:"--

 "Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow Slow move the harmless race; where, as they spread Their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray, Inly disturb'd, and wond'ring what this wild Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints The country fill; and, toss'd from rock to rock, Incessant bleatings run around the hills. "

 What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the oft-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"--

 "And drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold. "

 From Dyer's quaint poem of "The Fleece" we could cull a hundred passages relating to sheep; but we have already exceeded our space. We cannot, however, close this brief notice of the allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor Mailie, " his only "pet _yowe_:"--

 "Thro' a' the town she troll'd by him; A lang half-mile she could descry him; Wi' kindly bleat, when she did spy him. She ran wi' speed; A friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him Than Mailie dead. 

 "I wat she was a sheep o' sense. An' could behave hersel' wi' mense; I'll say't, she never brak a fence, Thro' thievish greed. Our bardie, lanely, keeps the spence, Sin' Mailie's dead. "

MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

731. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton, saltand pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of savouryherbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. Of butter, 1dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loinof mutton; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced savouryherbs, and minced shalot; fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonfulof flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently about 5 or 7minutes, and serve immediately. 

_Time_. --5 to 7 minutes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: MUTTON CUTLETS. ]

MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES. 

732. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 lbs. Of the best end of the neck of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes. 

_Mode_. --Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches ofthe top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness. Shapethem by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone; beat them flatwith a cutlet-chopper, and scrape quite clean, a portion of the top ofthe bone. Broil them over a nice clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes, and turn them frequently. Have ready some smoothly-mashed whitepotatoes; place these in the middle of the dish; when the cutlets aredone, season with pepper and salt; arrange them round the potatoes, withthe thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and quickly. (See Coloured Plate. )

_Time_. --7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Cutlets may be served in various ways; with peas, tomatoes, onions, sauce piquante, &c. 

MUTTON PIE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

733. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful ofchopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, alittle minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy;crust. 

_Mode_. --Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasonedand mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thinslices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at the bottomof the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs;then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on tillthe dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1hour. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted intoa very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and puttingthem into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned wellwith pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiledfor about 3 hours. 

MUTTON PIE. 

734. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed afterbeing boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravyor water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a littleminced onion or shalot; puff crust. 

_Mode_. --Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the samethickness, and leave but very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, andarrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them theminced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1-1/2 hour, orrather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be ratherbrisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, andwill be found exceedingly good. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MUTTON PUDDING. 

735. INGREDIENTS. --About 2 lbs. Of the chump end of the loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust madewith milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. Of suet to each poundof flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omittedwhen the flavour is not liked). 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them withpepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, andnearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour isliked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, andproceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the samekind of pudding-dish as there mentioned. 

_Time_. --About 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter. 

RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery). 

736. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. Of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1/4 pint of water, 2 smallcarrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greaterportion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a littleflour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put inthe meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots andturnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepperand salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots andturnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chopslaid round. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August. 

ROAST NECK OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. _Best end_. 2-3. _Scrag_. ]

737. INGREDIENTS. --Neck of mutton; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neckof mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off someof it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be foundexceedingly good. Let the bones be cut short and see that it is properlyjointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easilyseparated when they come to table. Place the joint at a nice briskfire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done. Afew minutes before serving, draw it nearer the the fire to acquire anice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, adda little boiling water slightly salted, strain this over the meat andserve. Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it. 

_Time_. --4 lbs. Of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES. --The distinction between hair and wool is rather arbitrary than natural, consisting in the greater or less degrees of fineness, softness and pliability of the fibres. When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable to be used as an article of dress, they are called wool. The sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained. The finest of all wools is that from the goat of Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made. Of European wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the precedence. The Merino sheep, as now naturalized in Australia, furnishes an excellent fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe or Australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in India, and to that of the llama of the Andes. The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the above-mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the finest Spanish merino; but for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer, they are unrivalled. 

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON. ]

738. INGREDIENTS. --Saddle of mutton; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days ora fortnight, if the weather permits. Cut off the tail and flaps and trimaway every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, andhave the skin taken off and skewered on again. Put it down to a bright, clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove theskin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near thefire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt. Keepconstantly basting, both before and after the skin is removed; sprinklesome salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pourit over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy andred-currant jelly. 

_Time_. --A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs. , 2-1/2 hours; 14 lbs. , 3-1/4 hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. For 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year; not so good when lamb is in full season. 

ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

739. INGREDIENTS. --Shoulder of mutton; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, andkeep continually basting. About 1/4 hour before serving, draw it nearthe fire, that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour, but notsufficiently near to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt overthe meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents, pour in a littleboiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onionsauce, or stewed Spanish onions, are usually sent to table with thisdish, and sometimes baked potatoes. 

_Time_. --A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways; boiled, and served with onion sauce; boned, and stuffed with a good vealforcemeat; or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan. 

 THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD. --James Hogg was perhaps the most remarkable man that ever wore the _maud_ of a shepherd. Under the garb, aspect, and bearing of a rude peasant (and rude enough he was in most of these things, even after no inconsiderable experience of society), the world soon discovered a true poet. He taught himself to write, by copying the letters of a printed book as he lay watching his flock on the hillside, and believed that he had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he first found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the ewe-milker who partook the shelter of his mantle during the passing storm. If "the shepherd" of Professor Wilson's "Noctes Ambrosianae" may be taken as a true portrait of James Hogg, we must admit that, for quaintness of humour, the poet of Ettrick Forest had few rivals. Sir Walter Scott said that Hogg's thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more entertainment than the best comedy that ever set the pit in a roar. Among the written productions of the shepherd-poet, is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called "The Shepherd's Calender. " This work contains a vast amount of useful information upon sheep, their diseases, habits, and management. The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835. 

SHEEP'S BRAINS, EN MATELOTE (an Entree). 

740. INGREDIENTS. --6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices ofbacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficientstock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, matelote sauce, No. 512. 

_Mode_. --Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them, and putthem into a pan of warm water; remove the skin, and let them remain fortwo hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegarand salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm, take them outand put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in astewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt; cover with stock, or weakbroth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready somecroûtons; arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains, andcover with a matelote sauce, No. 512, to which has been added the aboveproportion of lemon-juice. 

_Time_. --25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SHEEP'S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer's Recipe). 

741. INGREDIENTS. --12 feet, 1/4 lb. Of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions, 1carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. Of salt, 1/4 oz. Ofpepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2-1/2 quarts of water, 1/4 lb. Offresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3/4teaspoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1gill of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from them. Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced, thebay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep stirring till itboils; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, or untilperfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a sieve. Mix together, on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (1teaspoonful), pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and put thefeet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add thebutter, &c. , and stir continually till melted. Now mix the yolks of 2eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this to the other ingredients, keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two, butdo not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a very hotdish, and garnish with croûtons, or sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO DRESS A SHEEP'S HEAD. 

742. INGREDIENTS. --1 sheep's head, sufficient water to cover it, 3carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/4 lb. Of Scotchoatmeal. 

_Mode_. --Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours, to get rid of the blood; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient coldwater to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled andsliced, and the remaining ingredients; before adding the oatmeal, mix itto a smooth batter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring till itboils up; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently for1-1/2 or 2 hours. It may be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmealis preferable. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 or 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 SINGED SHEEP'S HEAD. --The village of Dudingston, which stands "within a mile of Edinburgh town, " was formerly celebrated for this ancient and homely Scottish dish. In the summer months, many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace themselves over singed sheep's heads, boiled or baked. The sheep fed upon the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at this village, and the carcases were sent to town; but the heads were left to be consumed in the place. We are not aware whether the custom of eating sheep's heads at Dudingston is still kept up by the good folks of Edinburgh. 

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

743. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter, a fewslices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys. 

_Mode_. --Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the aboveproportion; butter a baking-dish, and pour in the batter. Into thisplace a few slices of cold mutton, previously well seasoned, and thekidneys, which should be cut into rather small pieces; bake about 1hour, or rather longer, and send it to table in the dish it was bakedin. Oysters or mushrooms may be substituted for the kidneys, and will befound exceedingly good. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BREAST OF LAMB AND GREEN PEAS. 

744. INGREDIENTS. --1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1/4 pint ofstock No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green peas. 

_Mode_. --Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a saucepanof boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and layit in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices ofbacon; lay the lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it into slices, andput these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender; cover with 1or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set iton a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender. Have ready some greenpeas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb on the top of these. Theappearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb, andspinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_, --grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. 

 THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE. --The number of lambs consumed in sacrifices by the Hebrews must have been very considerable. Two lambs "of the first year" were appointed to be sacrificed daily for the morning and evening sacrifice; and a lamb served as a substitute for the first-born of unclean animals, such as the ass, which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord. Every year, also, on the anniversary of the deliverance of the children of Israel from the bondage of Egypt, every family was ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, and to sprinkle some of its blood upon the door-posts, in commemoration of the judgment of God upon the Egyptians. It was to be eaten roasted, with unleavened bread and bitter herbs, in haste, with the loins girded, the shoes on the feet, and the staff in the hand; and whatever remained until the morning was to be burnt. The sheep was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national sacrifices ordered by the Jewish law. On extraordinary occasions, vast quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once; thus Solomon, on the completion of the temple, offered "sheep and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude. "

STEWED BREAST OF LAMB. 

745. INGREDIENTS. --1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, sufficient stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening ofbutter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepperand salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or gravy tocover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be in about1-1/2 hour. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a little butterand flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the meat. Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat, and willbe found a very great improvement. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_, --grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. 

LAMB CHOPS. 

746. INGREDIENTS. --Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb, aid cut it intochops about 3/4 inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear fire; laythe chops on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown, turningthem when required. Season them with pepper and salt; serve very hot andquickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or place them on mashedpotatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the favourite accompanimentsto lamb chops. 

_Time_. --About 8 or 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 chops to each person. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH (an Entree). 

747. INGREDIENTS. --8 cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper totaste, a little clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cuttingoff the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and allthe skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush thecutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season withpepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter, sprinkle over a fewmore bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them whenrequired. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dishwith spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned. 

_Time_. --About 7 or 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

_Note_. --Peas, asparagus, or French beans, may be substituted for thespinach; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubisesauce, &c. &c. 

LAMB'S FRY. 

748. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of lamb's fry, 3 pints of water, egg and breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Boil the fry for 1/4 hour in the above proportion of water, take it out and dry it in a cloth; grate some bread down finely, mixwith it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepperand salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkleover the bread crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkinin a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley. 

_Time_. -1 hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

HASHED LAMB AND BROILED BLADE-BONE. 

749. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper andsalt to taste, 2 oz. Of butter, about 1/2 pint of stock or gravy, 1tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. 

_Mode_. --Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat intocollops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and salt, pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warmthrough. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalotvinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat graduallythrough, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of theoven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice thegherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone in thecentre. It may be garnished with croutons or sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_, --house lamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, fromEaster to Michaelmas. 

[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. ]

ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

750. INGREDIENTS. --Lamb, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not belong kept; time to cool is all that it requires; and though the meat maybe somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely superiorto that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up the fire ingood time, that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down. Place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning, andbaste it constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be very_thoroughly_ done without being dried up, and not the slightestappearance of red gravy should be visible, as in roast mutton: this ruleis applicable to all young white meats. Serve with a little gravy madein the dripping-pan, the same as for other roasts, and send to tablewith it a tureen of mint sauce, No. 469, and a fresh salad. A cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, should also beplaced on the table, so that when the carver separates the shoulder fromthe ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, however, he should not bevery expert, we would recommend that the cook should divide these jointsnicely before coming to table. 

_Time_. --Fore-quarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs. , 1-3/4 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_, --grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas. 

BOILED LEG OF LAMB A LA BECHAMEL. 

751. INGREDIENTS. --Leg of lamb, Béchamel sauce, No. 367. 

_Mode_. --Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge the lamb, andwhen it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire, and let thewater cool a little. Then stew very gently for about 1-1/4 hour, reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer. Make someBéchamel by recipe No. 367, dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, andgarnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When liked, meltedbutter may be substituted for the Béchamel: this is a more simplemethod, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it some of the saucein a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with whichevervegetable the dish is garnished. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour after the water simmers. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

ROAST LEG OF LAMB. 

752. INGREDIENTS. --Lamb, a little salt. 

[Illustration: LEG OF LAMB. ]

_Mode_. --Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, andbaste well the whole time it is cooking. When nearly done, draw itnearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle a little finesalt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents; pour in alittle boiling water, and strain this over the meat. Serve with mintsauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, orcauliflowers to table with it. 

_Time_. --A leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

BRAISED LOIN OF LAMB. 

[Illustration: LOIN OF LAMB. ]

753. INGREDIENTS. --1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch ofgreen onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 bladesof pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Bone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a stewpan justcapable of holding it, with a few thin slices of fat bacon; add theremaining ingredients, cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon, pour in the stock, and simmer very _gently_ for 2 hours; take it up, dryit, strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve it either on stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient for_ 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

[Illustration: SADDLE OF LAMB. RIBS OF LAMB. ]

ROAST SADDLE OF LAMB. 

754. INGREDIENTS. --Lamb; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --This joint is now very much in vogue, and is generallyconsidered a nice one for a small party. Have ready a clear brisk fire;put down the joint at a little distance, to prevent the fat fromscorching, and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking. Servewith mint sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table with it, eitherpeas, cauliflowers, or spinach. 

_Time_. --A small saddle, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

_Note_. --Loin and ribs of lamb are roasted in the same manner, andserved with the same sauces as the above. A loin will take about 1-1/4hour; ribs, from 1 to 1-1/4 hour. 

ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB. 

755. INGREDIENTS. --Lamb; a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Have ready a clear brisk fire, and put down the joint at asufficient distance from it, that the fat may not burn. Keep constantlybasting until done, and serve with a little gravy made in thedripping-pan, and send mint sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, orcauliflowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb, and also a freshsalad. 

_Time_. --A shoulder of lamb rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10s. To 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

SHOULDER OF LAMB STUFFED. 

756. INGREDIENTS. --Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings ofveal or beef, 2 onions, 1/2 head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, afew slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105. 

_Mode_. --Take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up itsplace with forcemeat, and sew it up with coarse thread. Put it into astewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb, and add theremaining ingredients. Stew very gently for rather more than 2 hours. Reduce the gravy, with which glaze the meat, and serve with peas, stewedcucumbers, or sorrel sauce. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS (an Entree). 

757. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 sweetbreads, 1/2 pint of veal stock, whitepepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade ofpounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, 2 eggs, nearly 1/2 pint ofcream, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and put them into asaucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let themsimmer for 10 minutes; then take them out and put them into cold water. Now lard them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, onions, mace, and a thickening of butter and flour, and stew gently for 1/4 houror 20 minutes. Beat up the egg with the cream, to which add the mincedparsley and a very little grated nutmeg. Put this to the otheringredients; stir it well till quite hot, but do not let it boil afterthe cream is added, or it will curdle. Have ready some asparagus-tops, boiled; add these to the sweetbreads, and serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. To 3s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS SWEETBREADS (an Entree). 

758. INGREDIENTS. --Sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of gravy, No. 442, 1/2 glass of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, and throw them intoboiling water to render them firm. Let them stew gently for about 1/4hour, take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the waterfrom them. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and either brown them in the oven or before the fire. Have ready theabove quantity of gravy, to which add 1/2 glass of sherry; dish thesweetbreads, pour the gravy under them, and garnish with water-cresses. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. To 3s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_--3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from Easter to Michaelmas. 

MUTTON AND LAMB CARVING. 

HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON. ]

759. A deep cut should, in the first place, be made quite down to thebone, across the knuckle-end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. Thiswill let the gravy escape; and then it should be carved, in not too ofthe haunch, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3. 

[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON. ]

LEG OF MUTTON. 

760. This homely, but capital English joint, is almost invariably servedat table as shown in the engraving. The carving of it is not verydifficult: the knife should be carried sharply down in the direction ofthe line from 1 to 2, and slices taken from either side, as the guestsmay desire, some liking the knuckle-end, as well done, and otherspreferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near theline 3 to 4. Some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished withthe under-side uppermost, so as to get at the finely-grained meat lyingunder that part of the meat, known as the Pope's eye; but this is anextravagant fashion, and one that will hardly find favour in the eyes ofmany economical British housewives and housekeepers. 

LOIN OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON. ]

761. There is one point in connection with carving a loin of muttonwhich includes every other; that is, that the joint should be thoroughlywell jointed by the butcher before it is cooked. This knack of jointingrequires practice and the proper tools; and no one but the butcher issupposed to have these. If the bones be not well jointed, the carving ofa loin of mutton is not a gracious business; whereas, if that has beenattended to, it is an easy and untroublesome task. The knife should beinserted at fig. 1, and after feeling your way between the bones, itshould be carried sharply in the direction of the line 1 to 2. As thereare some people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, the question as to their choice of this should be asked. 

SADDLE OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON. ]

762. Although we have heard, at various intervals, growlings expressedat the inevitable "saddle of mutton" at the dinner-parties of our middleclasses, yet we doubt whether any other joint is better liked, when ithas been well hung and artistically cooked. There is a diversity ofopinion respecting the mode of sending this joint to table; but it hasonly reference to whether or no there shall be any portion of the tail, or, if so, how many joints of the tail. We ourselves prefer the mode asshown in our coloured illustration "O;" but others may, upon equallygood grounds, like the way shown in the engraving on this page. Sometrim the tail with a paper frill. The carving is not difficult: it isusually cut in the direction of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to thebones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A fashion, however, patronized by some, is to carve it obliquely, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3; inwhich case the joint would be turned round the other way, having thetail end on the right of the carver. 

SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

[Illustration: SHOULDER OF MUTTON. ]

763. This is a joint not difficult to carve. The knife should be drawnfrom the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line from 1to 2, until the bone of the shoulder is reached. As many slices as canbe carved in this manner should be taken, and afterwards the meat lyingon either side of the blade-bone should be served, by carving in thedirection of 3 to 4 and 3 to 4. The uppermost side of the shoulder beingnow finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken off along itswhole length. There are some who prefer this under-side of the shoulderfor its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat is not so fine asthat on the other side. 

FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. ]

764. We always think that a good and practised carver delights in themanipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judgmentand dexterity which does not always occur. The separation of theshoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this isdone by passing the knife lightly round the dotted line, as shown by thefigures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, byraising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should befirmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of theknife. In dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take carenot to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that wouldrather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast andshoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter, and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them; andwhen this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, theshoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The, next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cuttingthrough the meat on the line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to beserved to the guests; the ribs being carved in the direction of thelines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should askthose at the table what parts they prefer-ribs, brisket, or a piece ofthe shoulder. 

LEG OF LAMB, LOIN OF LAMB, SADDLE OF LAMB, SHOULDER OF LAMB, are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of mutton. (_See_ Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763. )

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XVI. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG. 

765. THE HOG belongs to the order _Mammalia_, the genus _Sus scrofa_, and the species _Pachydermata_, or thick-skinned; and its genericcharacters are, a small head, with long flexible snout truncated; 42teeth, divided into 4 upper incisors, converging, 6 lower incisors, projecting, 2 upper and 2 lower canine, or tusks, --the former short, thelatter projecting, formidable, and sharp, and 14 molars in each jaw;cloven feet furnished with 4 toes, and tail, small, short, and twisted;while, in some varieties, this appendage is altogether wanting. 

766. FROM THE NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TEETH, physiologists areenabled to define the nature and functions of the animal; and from thoseof the _Sus_, or hog, it is evident that he is as much a _grinder_ as a_biter_, or can live as well on vegetable as on animal food; though amixture of both is plainly indicated as the character of food mostconducive to the integrity and health of its physical system. 

767. THUS THE PIG TRIBE, though not a ruminating mammal, as might beinferred from the number of its molar teeth, is yet a link between the_herbivorous_ and the _carnivorous_ tribes, and is consequently what isknown as an _omnivorous_ quadruped; or, in other words, capable ofconverting any kind of aliment into nutriment. 

768. THOUGH THE HOOF IN THE HOG is, as a general rule, cloven, there areseveral remarkable exceptions, as in the species native to Norway, Illyria, Sardinia, and _formerly_ to the Berkshire variety of theBritish domesticated pig, in which the hoof is entire and _un_cleft. 

769. WHATEVER DIFFERENCE IN ITS PHYSICAL NATURE, climate and soil mayproduce in this animal, his functional characteristics are the same inwhatever part of the world he may be found; and whether in the tracklessforests of South America, the coral isles of Polynesia, the jungles ofIndia, or the spicy brakes of Sumatra, he is everywhere known for hisgluttony, laziness, and indifference to the character and quality of hisfood. And though he occasionally shows an epicure's relish for asucculent plant or a luscious carrot, which he will discuss with all hissalivary organs keenly excited, he will, the next moment, turn withequal gusto to some carrion offal that might excite the forbearance ofthe unscrupulous cormorant. It is this coarse and repulsive mode offeeding that has, in every country and language, obtained for him theopprobrium of being "an unclean animal. "

770. IN THE MOSAICAL LAW, the pig is condemned as an unclean beast, andconsequently interdicted to the Israelites, as unfit for human food. "And the swine, though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed, yet hecheweth not the cud. He is unclean to you. "--Lev. Xi. 7. Strict, however, as the law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-dividedanimals, the Jews, with their usual perversity and violation of thedivine commands, seem afterwards to have ignored the prohibition; for, unless they ate pork, it is difficult to conceive for what purpose theykept troves of swine, as from the circumstance recorded in Matthewxviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee, and the devils, cast out of thetwo men, were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were feeding onthe hills in the neighbourhood of the Sea of Tiberias, it is veryevident they did. There is only one interpretation by which we canaccount for a prohibition that debarred the Jews from so many foodswhich we regard as nutritious luxuries, that, being fat and the texturemore hard of digestion than other meats, they were likely, in a hot dryclimate, where vigorous exercise could seldom be taken, to producedisease, and especially cutaneous affections; indeed, in this light, asa code of sanitary ethics, the book of Leviticus is the most admirablesystem of moral government ever conceived for man's benefit. 

771. SETTING HIS COARSE FEEDING AND SLOVENLY HABITS OUT OF THE QUESTION, there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as themuch-maligned pig, or any that yields him a more varied or moreluxurious repast. The prolific powers of the pig are extraordinary, evenunder the restraint of domestication; but when left to run wild infavourable situations, as in the islands of the South Pacific, theresult, in a few years, from two animals put on shore and leftundisturbed, is truly surprising; for they breed so fast, and have suchnumerous litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for theuse of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews, theywould degenerate into vermin. In this country the pig has usually twolitters, or farrows, in a year, the breeding seasons being April andOctober; and the period the female goes with her young is about fourmonths, --16 weeks or 122 days. The number produced at each litterdepends upon the character of the breed; 12 being the average number inthe small variety, and 10 in the large; in the mixed breeds, however, the average is between 10 and 15, and in some instances has reached asmany as 20. But however few, or however many, young pigs there may be tothe farrow, there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle, apoor, little, shrivelled, half-starved anatomy, with a small melancholyvoice, a staggering gait, a woe-begone countenance, and a thread of atail, whose existence the complacent mother ignores, his plethoricbrothers and sisters repudiate, and for whose emaciated jaws there isnever a spare or supplemental teat, till one of the favouredgormandizers, overtaken by momentary oblivion, drops the lactealfountain, and gives the little squeaking straggler the chance of amomentary mouthful. This miserable little object, which may be seenbringing up the rear of every litter, is called the Tony pig, or the_Anthony_; so named, it is presumed, from being the one always assignedto the Church, when tithe was taken in kind; and as St. Anthony was thepatron of husbandry, his name was given in a sort of bitter derision tothe starveling that constituted his dues; for whether there are ten orfifteen farrows to the litter, the Anthony is always the last of thefamily to come into the world. 

772. FROM THE GROSSNESS OF HIS FEEDING, the large amount of aliment heconsumes, his gluttonous way of eating it, from his slothful habits, laziness, and indulgence in sleep, the pig is particularly liable todisease, and especially indigestion, heartburn, and affections of theskin. 

773. TO COUNTERACT THE CONSEQUENCE OF A VIOLATION OF THE PHYSICAL LAWS, a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to seek forrelief and medicine. To open the pores of his skin, blocked up with mud, and excite perspiration, he resorts to a tree, a stump, or histrough--anything rough and angular, and using it as a curry-comb to hisbody, obtains the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticularevaporation; he next proceeds with his long supple snout to grub upantiscorbutic roots, cooling salads of mallow and dandelion, and, greatest treat of all, he stumbles on a piece of chalk or a mouthful ofdelicious cinder, which, he knows by instinct, is the most sovereignremedy in the world for that hot, unpleasant sensation he has had allthe morning at his stomach. 

774. IT IS A REMARKABLE FACT that, though every one who keeps a pigknows how prone he is to disease, how that disease injures the qualityof the meat, and how eagerly he pounces on a bit of coal or cinder, orany coarse dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which helives, and by affording soda to his system, correct the vitiated fluidsof his body, --yet very few have the judgment to act on what they see, and by supplying the pig with a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty, save the necessity of his rooting for what is so needful to his health. Instead of this, however, and without supplying the animal with what itsinstinct craves for, his nostril is bored with a red-hot iron, and aring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to beabsolutely necessary for his health; and ignoring the fact that, in adomestic state at least, the pig lives on the richest of allfood, --scraps of cooked animal substances, boiled vegetables, bread, andother items, given in that concentrated essence of aliment for aquadruped called wash, and that he eats to repletion, takes no exercise, and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating, and then, when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which wouldobviate the evil of such a forcing diet, his keeper, instead of meetinghis animal instinct by human reason, and giving him what he seeks, hasthe inhumanity to torture him by a ring, that, keeping up a perpetual"raw" in the pig's snout, prevents his digging for those correctivedrugs which would remove the evils of his artificial existence. 

775. THOUGH SUBJECT TO SO MANY DISEASES, no domestic animal is moreeasily kept in health, cleanliness, and comfort, and this without thenecessity of "ringing, " or any excessive desire of the hog to roam, break through his sty, or plough up his _pound_. Whatever the kind offood may be on which the pig is being fed or fattened, a teaspoonful ormore of salt should always be given in his mess of food, and a littleheap of well-burnt cinders, with occasional bits of chalk, should alwaysbe kept by the side of his trough, as well as a vessel of clean water:his pound, or the front part of his sty, should be totally free fromstraw, the brick flooring being every day swept out and sprinkled with alayer of sand. His lair, or sleeping apartment, should be well shelteredby roof and sides from cold, wet, and all changes of weather, and thebed made up of a good supply of clean straw, sufficiently deep to enablethe pig to burrow his unprotected body beneath it. All the refuse of thegarden, in the shape of roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in acorner of his pound or feeding-chamber, for the delectation of hisleisure moments; and once a week, on the family washing-day, a pail ofwarm soap-suds should be taken into his sty, and, by means of ascrubbing-brush and soap, his back, shoulders, and flanks should be wellcleaned, a pail of clean warm water being thrown over his body at theconclusion, before he is allowed to retreat to his clean straw to dryhimself. By this means, the excessive nutrition of his aliment will becorrected, a more perfect digestion insured, and, by opening the poresof the skin, a more vigorous state of health acquired than could havebeen obtained under any other system. 

776. WE HAVE ALREADY SAID that no other animal yields man so _many_kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the fleshof the hog differently prepared; for almost every part of the animal, either fresh, salted, or dried, is used for food; and even those visceranot so employed are of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view. 

777. THOUGH DESTITUTE OF THE HIDE, HORNS, AND HOOFS, constituting theoffal of most domestic animals, the pig is not behind the other mammaliain its usefulness to man. Its skin, especially that of the boar, fromits extreme closeness of texture, when tanned, is employed for the seatsof saddles, to cover powder, shot, and drinking-flasks; and the hair, according to its colour, flexibility, and stubbornness, is manufacturedinto tooth, nail, and hairbrushes, --others into hat, clothes, andshoe-brushes; while the longer and finer qualities are made into longand short brooms and painters' brushes; and a still more rigiddescription, under the name of "bristles, " are used by the shoemaker asneedles for the passage of his wax-end. Besides so many benefits anduseful services conferred on man by this valuable animal, his fat, in acommercial sense, is quite as important as his flesh, and brings a priceequal to the best joints in the carcase. This fat is rendered, or meltedout of the caul, or membrane in which it is contained, by boiling water, and, while liquid, run into prepared bladders, when, under the name of_lard_, it becomes an article of extensive trade and value. 

778. OF THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF THE DOMESTICATED HOG, the followinglist of breeds may be accepted as the best, presenting severally allthose qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock, as affectingboth the breeder and the consumer. _Native_--Berkshire, Essex, York, andCumberland; _Foreign_--the Chinese. Before, however, proceeding with theconsideration of the different orders, in the series we have placedthem, it will be necessary to make a few remarks relative to the piggenerally. In the first place, the _Black Pig_ is regarded by breedersas the best and most eligible animal, not only from the fineness anddelicacy of the skin, but because it is less affected by the heat insummer, and far less subject to cuticular disease than either the whiteor brindled hog, but more particularly from its kindlier nature andgreater aptitude to fatten. 

779. THE GREAT QUALITY FIRST SOUGHT FOR IN A HOG is a capacious stomach, and next, a healthy power of digestion; for the greater the quantity hecan eat, and the more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten, the morequickly will he fatten; and the faster he can be made to increase inflesh, without a material increase of bone, the better is the breedconsidered, and the more valuable the animal. In the usual order ofnature, the development of flesh and enlargement of bone proceedtogether; but here the object is to outstrip the growth of the bones bythe quicker development of their fleshy covering. 

780. THE CHIEF POINTS SOUGHT FOR IN THE CHOICE OF A HOG are breadth ofchest, depth of carcase, width of loin, chine, and ribs, compactness ofform, docility, cheerfulness, and general beauty of appearance. The headin a well-bred hog must not be too long, the forehead narrow and convex, cheeks full, snout fine, mouth small, eyes small and quick, ears short, thin, and sharp, pendulous, and pointing forwards; neck full and broad, particularly on the top, where it should join very broad shoulders; theribs, loin, and haunch should be in a uniform line, and the tail wellset, neither too high nor too low; at the same time the back is to bestraight or slightly curved, the chest deep, broad, and prominent, thelegs short and thick; the belly, when well fattened, should nearly touchthe ground, the hair be long, thin, fine, and having few bristles, andwhatever the colour, uniform, either white, black, or blue; but notspotted, speckled, brindled, or sandy. Such are the features andrequisites that, among breeders and judges, constitute the _beau idéal_of a perfect pig. 

[Illustration: BERKSHIRE SOW. ]

781. THE BERKSHIRE PIG IS THE BEST KNOWN AND MOST ESTEEMED of all ourEnglish domestic breeds, and so highly is it regarded, that even thevarieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breeditself. The characteristics of the Berkshire hog are that it has a tawnycolour, spotted with black, large ears hanging over the eyes, a thick, close, and well-made body, legs short and small in the bone; feeds up toa great weight, fattens quickly, and is good either for pork or bacon. The New or Improved Berkshire possesses all the above qualities, but isinfinitely more prone to fatten, while the objectionable colour has beenentirely done away with, being now either all white or completely black. 

[Illustration: ESSEX SOW. ]

782. NEXT TO THE FORMER, THE ESSEX takes place in public estimation, always competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. Thepeculiar characters of the Essex breed are that it is tip-eared, has along sharp head, is roach-backed, with a long flat body, standing highon the legs; is rather bare of hair, is a quick feeder, has an enormouscapacity of stomach and belly, and an appetite to match its receivingcapability. Its colour is white, or else black and white, and it has arestless habit and an unquiet disposition. The present valuable stockhas sprung from a cross between the common native animal and either theWhite Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds. 

[Illustration: YORKSHIRE SOW. ]

783. THE YORKSHIRE, CALLED ALSO THE OLD LINCOLNSHIRE, was at one timethe largest stock of the pig family in England, and perhaps, at thattime, the worst. It was long-legged, weak in the loins, with coarsewhite curly hair, and flabby flesh. Now, however, it has undergone asgreat a change as any breed in the kingdom, and by judicious crossinghas become the most valuable we possess, being a very well-formed pigthroughout, with a good head, a pleasant docile countenance, withmoderate-sized drooping ears, a broad back, slightly curved, large chineand loins, with deep sides, full chest, and well covered with longthickly-set white hairs. Besides these qualities of form, he is a quickgrower, feeds fast, and will easily make from 20 to 25 stone beforecompleting his first year. The quality of the meat is also uncommonlygood, the fat and lean being laid on in almost equal proportions. Socapable is this species of development, both in flesh and stature, thatexamples of the Yorkshire breed have been exhibited weighing as much asa Scotch ox. 

[Illustration: CUMBERLAND SOW. ]

784. THOUGH ALMOST EVERY COUNTRY IN ENGLAND can boast some local varietyor other of this useful animal, obtained from the native stock bycrossing with some of the foreign kinds, Cumberland and the north-westparts of the kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of whitepigs, with a thick, compact, and well-made body, short in the legs, thehead and back well formed, ears slouching and a little downwards, and onthe whole, a hardy, profitable animal, and one well disposed to fatten. 

785. THERE IS NO VARIETY OF THIS USEFUL ANIMAL that presents suchpeculiar features as the species known to us as the Chinese pig; and asit is the general belief that to this animal and the Neapolitan hog weare indebted for that remarkable improvement which has taken place inthe breeds of the English pig, it is necessary to be minute in thedescription of this, in all respects, singular animal. The Chinese, inthe first place, consists of many varieties, and presents as many formsof body as differences of colour; the best kind, however, has abeautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy; the hair too isperfectly white, and thinly set over the body, with here and there a fewbristles. He has a broad snout, short head, eyes bright and fiery, verysmall fine pink ears, wide cheeks, high chine, with a neck of suchimmense thickness, that when the animal is fat it looks like anelongated carcase, --a mass of fat, without shape or form, like a featherpillow. The belly is dependent, and almost trailing on the ground, thelegs very short, and the tail so small as to be little more than arudiment. It has a ravenous appetite, and will eat anything that thewonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest; and to thatcapability, there seems no limit in the whole range of animal orvegetable nature. The consequence of this perfect and singularly rapiddigestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity, a process offattening that, once commenced, goes on with such rapid development, that, in a short time, it loses all form, depositing such an amount offat, that it in fact ceases to have any refuse part or offal, and, beyond the hair on its back and the callous extremity of the snout, _thewhole carcase is eatable_. 

[Illustration: CHINESE SOW. ]

786. WHEN JUDICIOUSLY FED ON VEGETABLE DIET, and this obese tendencychecked, the flesh of the Chinese pig is extremely delicate anddelicious; but when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food, itbecomes oily, coarse, and unpleasant. Perhaps there is no other instancein nature where the effect of rapid and perfect digestion is so wellshown as in this animal, which thrives on _everything_, and turns to thebenefit of its physical economy, food of the most _opposite nature_, andof the most unwholesome and _offensive_ character. When fully fattened, the thin cuticle, that is one of its characteristics, cracks, from theadipose distension beneath, exposing the fatty mass, which discharges aliquid oil from the adjacent tissues. The great fault in this breed isthe remarkably small quantity of lean laid down, to the immenseproportion of fat. Some idea of the growth of this species may beinferred from the fact of their attaining to 18 stone before two years, and when further advanced, as much as 40 stone. In its pure state, except for roasters, the Chinese pig is too disproportionate for theEnglish market; but when crossed with some of our lean stock, the breedbecomes almost invaluable. 

[Illustration: WESTPHALIAN BOAR. ]

787. THE WILD BOAR is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than thedomesticated hog; he is longer in the snout, has his ears shorter andhis tusks considerably longer, very frequently measuring as much as 10inches. They are extremely sharp, and are bent in an upward circle. Unlike his domestic brother, who roots up here and there, or whereverhis fancy takes, the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines orfurrows. The boar, when selected as the parent of a stock, should have asmall head, be deep and broad in the chest; the chine should be arched, the ribs and barrel well rounded, with the haunches falling full downnearly to the hock; and he should always be more compact and smallerthan the female. The colour of the wild boar is always of a uniform hue, and generally of an iron grey; shading off into a black. The hair of theboar is of considerable length, especially about the head and mane; hestands, in general, from 20 to 30 inches in height at the shoulders, though instances have occurred where he has reached 42 inches. The youngare of a pale yellowish tint, irregularly brindled with light brown. Theboar of Germany is a large and formidable animal, and the hunting ofhim, with a small species of mastiff, is still a national sport. Fromliving almost exclusively on acorns and nuts, his flesh is held in greatesteem, and in Westphalia his legs are made into hams by a processwhich, it is said, enhances the flavour and quality of the meat in aremarkable degree. 

788. THERE ARE TWO POINTS to be taken into consideration by all breedersof pigs--to what ultimate use is the flesh to be put; for, if meant tobe eaten fresh, or simply salted, the _small_ breed of pigs is hostsuited for the purpose; if for hams or bacon, the large variety of theanimal is necessary. Pigs are usually weaned between six and eight weeksafter birth, after which they are fed on soft food, such as mashedpotatoes in skimmed or butter-milk. The general period at which thesmall hogs are killed for the market is from 12 to 16 weeks; from 4 to 5mouths, they are called store pigs, and are turned out to graze till theanimal has acquired its full stature. As soon as this point has beenreached, the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible; heshould therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard, and shut up onboiled potatoes, buttermilk, and peas-meal, after a time to be followedby grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and Indian meal; supplying his sty atthe same time with plenty of water, cinders, and a quantity of salt inevery mess of food presented to him. 

789. THE ESTIMATED NUMBER OF PIGS IN GREAT BRITAIN is supposed to exceed20 millions; and, considering the third of the number as worth £2apiece, and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of _10s_. Each, would give a marketable estimate of over £20, 000, 000 for thisanimal alone. 

790. THE BEST AND MOST HUMANE MODE OF KILLING ALL LARGE HOGS is tostrike them down like a bullock, with the pointed end of a poleaxe, onthe forehead, which has the effect of killing the animal at once; allthe butcher has then to do, is to open the aorta and great arteries, andlaying the animal's neck over a trough, let out the blood as quickly aspossible. The carcase is then to be scalded, either on a board or byimmersion in a tub of very hot water, and all the hair and dirt rapidlyscraped off, till the skin is made perfectly white, when it is hung up, opened, and dressed, as it is called, in the usual way. It is thenallowed to cool, a sheet being thrown around the carcase, to prevent theair from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin. When meant for bacon, thehair is singed instead of being scalded off. 

791. IN THE COUNTRY, where for ordinary consumption the pork killed forsale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the Londonconsumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean, and, salting that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further, and is consequently a more economical food than other meats, simplybecause the texture is closer, and there is less waste in the cooking, either in roasting or boiling. 

792. IN FRESH PORK, the leg is the most economical family joint, and theloin the richest. 

793. COMPARATIVELY SPEAKING, very little difference exists between theweight of the live and dead pig, and this, simply because there isneither the head nor the hide to be removed. It has been proved thatpork loses in cooking 13-1/2, per cent. Of its weight. A salted handweighing 4 lbs. 5 oz. Lost in the cooking 11 oz. ; after cooking, themeat weighing only 3 lbs. 1 oz. , and the bone 9 oz. The original costwas 7-1/2d. A pound; but by this deduction, the cost rose to 9d. Perpound with the bone, and 10-1/4d. Without it. 

794. PORK, TO BE PRESERVED, is cured in several ways, --either bycovering it with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it iskept till required; or it is only partially salted, and then hung up todry, when the meat is called white bacon; or, after salting, it is hungin wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from thewood. The Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as the finest in thekingdom, is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large woodentroughs, and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powderedbay-salt, made hot in a frying-pan. This process is repeated for fourdays; they are then left for three weeks, merely turning the flitchesevery other day. After that time they are hung up to dry. The hogsusually killed for purposes of bacon in England average from 18 to 20stone; on the other hand, the hogs killed in the country for farm-housepurposes, seldom weigh less than 26 stone. The legs of boars, hogs, and, in Germany, those of bears, are prepared differently, and called hams. 

795. THE PRACTICE IN VOGUE FORMERLY in this country was to cut out thehams and cure them separately; then to remove the ribs, which wereroasted as "spare-ribs, " and, curing the remainder of the side, call ita "gammon of bacon. "

Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most placesthroughout the kingdom, as represented in the engraving. The sale isdivided with nine ribs to the fore quarter; and the following is anenumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters:--

 1. The leg. HIND QUARTER 2. The loin. 3. The spring, or belly. 

 4. The hand. FORE QUARTER 5. The fore-loin. 6. The cheek. 

[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS. ]

The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may beas follows; viz. :--

 The leg 8 lbs. The loin and spring 7 lbs. The hand 6 lbs. The chine 7 lbs. The cheek from 2 to 3 lbs. 

Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and when cured arecalled hams: when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade andbones and cured, it is called bacon. The bones, with part of the meatleft on them, are divided into spare-ribs, griskins, and chines. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

PORK CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

796. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast loin of pork, 1 oz. Ofbutter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepperand salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard. 

_Mode_. --Cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, and chop the onions. Put the butter into a stewpan, lay in the cutletsand chopped onions, and fry a light brown; then add the remainingingredients, simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and serve. 

_Time_. --5 to 7 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

 AUSTRIAN METHOD OF HERDING PIGS. --In the Austrian empire there are great numbers of wild swine, while, among the wandering tribes peopling the interior of Hungary, and spreading over the vast steppes of that country, droves of swine form a great portion of the wealth of the people, who chiefly live on a coarse bread and wind-dried bacon. 

 In German Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous districts of continental Europe, though the inhabitants, almost everywhere, as in England, keep one or more pigs, they are at little or no trouble in feeding them, one or more men being employed by one or several villages as swine-herds; who, at a certain hour, every morning, call for the pig or pigs, and driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and in the wood, take custody of the herd till, on the approach of night, they are collected into a compact body and driven home for a night's repose in their several sties. 

 The amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in these mountain regions, is much more considerable than that usually allowed to this animal, and the manner in which these immense herds of swine are collected, and again distributed, without an accident or mistake, is a sight both curious and interesting; for it is all done without the assistance of a dog, or the aid even of the human voice, and solely by the crack of the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip, which the swine-herd carries, and cracks much after the fashion of the French postilion; and which, though he frequently cracks, waking a hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks, he seldom has to use correctionally; the animal soon acquiring a thorough knowledge of the meaning of each crack; and once having felt its leaded thong, a lasting remembrance of its power. At early dawn, the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the first village, and begins flourishing through the misty air his immensely long lash, keeping a sort of rude time with the crack, crack, crack, crack, crack, crack of his whip. The nearest pigs, hearing the well-remembered sound, rouse from their straw, and rush from their sties into the road, followed by all their litters. As soon as a sufficient number are collected, the drove is set in motion, receiving, right and left, as they advance, fresh numbers; whole communities, or solitary individuals, streaming in from all quarters, and taking their place, without distinction, in the general herd; and, as if conscious where their breakfast lay, without wasting a moment on idle investigation, all eagerly push on to the mountains. In this manner village after village is collected, till the drove not unfrequently consists of several thousands. The feeding-ground has, of course, often to be changed, and the drove have sometimes to be driven many miles, and to a considerable height up the mountain, before the whip gives the signal for the dispersion of the body and the order to feed, when the herdsman proceeds to form himself a shelter, and look after his own comfort for the rest of the day. As soon as twilight sets in, the whip is again heard echoing the signal for muster; and in the same order in which they were collected, the swine are driven back, each group tailing off to its respective sty, as the herd approaches the villages, till the last grunter, having found his home, the drover seeks his cottage and repose. 

PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. 

I. 

797. INGREDIENTS. --Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trimthem neatly, and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season themwith pepper; place the gridiron on the fire; when quite hot, lay on thechops and broil them for about 1/4 hour, turning them 3 or 4 times; andbe particular that they are _thoroughly_ done, but not dry. Dish them, sprinkle over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato sauce, sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be laid roundthe dish as a garnish. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. For chops. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 6 for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

II. 

(_Another Way_. )

798. INGREDIENTS. --Loin or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow1/2 teaspoonful of minced sage; clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork; trim themthe same as mutton cutlets, and scrape the top part of the bone. Brushthem over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have beenmixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and salt; drop a littleclarified butter on them, and press the crumbs well down. Put thefrying-pan on the fire, put in some lard; when this is hot, lay in thecutlets, and fry them a light brown on both sides. Take them out, putthem before the fire to dry the greasy moisture from them, and dish themon mashed potatoes. Serve with them any sauce that may be preferred;such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. For chops. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 6 cutlets for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

_Note_. --The remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the samemanner. 

PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Dish). 

799. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very smallbunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, 1/2teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; good strong gravy, sufficient to fillthe mould. 

_Mode_. --Cut, but do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and allow 1/4lb. Of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt; poundwell the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, andlemon-peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould, fillup with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more than onehour. When cold, turn it out of the mould. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

ROAST LEG OF PORK. 

[Illustration: ROAST LEG OF PORK. ]

800. INGREDIENTS. --Leg of pork, a little oil for stuffing. (See RecipeNo. 504. )

_Mode_. --Choose a small leg of pork, and score the skin across in narrowstrips, about 1/4 inch apart. Cut a slit in the knuckle, loosen theskin, and fill it with a sage-and-onion stuffing, made by Recipe No. 504. Brush the joint over with a little salad-oil (this makes thecrackling crisper, and a better colour), and put it down to a bright, clear fire, not too near, as that would cause the skin to blister. Basteit well, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and donot omit to send to table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce. (Sec No. 363. )

_Time_. --A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs. , about 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 ENGLISH MODE OF HUNTING, AND INDIAN PIG-STICKING. --The hunting of the wild boar has been in all times, and in all countries, a pastime of the highest interest and excitement, and from the age of Nimrod, has only been considered second to the more dangerous sport of lion-hunting. The buried treasures of Nineveh, restored to us by Mr. Layard, show us, on their sculptured annals, the kings of Assyria in their royal pastime of boar-hunting. That the Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, we know both from history and the romantic fables of the poets. Marc Antony, at one of his breakfasts with Cleopatra, had _eight wild boars_ roasted whole; and though the Romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting, wild-boar fights formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France, Germany, and Britain, from the earliest time, the boar-hunt formed one of the most exciting of sports; but it was only in this country that the sport was conducted without dogs, --a real hand-to-hand contest of man and beast; the hunter, armed only with a boar-spear, a weapon about four feet long, the ash staff, guarded by plates of steel, and terminating in a long, narrow, and very sharp blade: this, with a hunting-knife, or hanger, completed his offensive arms. Thus equipped, the hunter would either encounter his enemy face to face, confront his desperate charge, as with erect tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, he rushed with his foamy tusks full against him, who either sought to pierce his vitals through his counter, or driving his spear through his chine, transfix his heart; or failing those more difficult aims, plunge it into his flank, and, without withdrawing the weapon, strike his ready hanger into his throat. But expert as the hunter might be, it was not often the formidable brute was so quickly dispatched; for he would sometimes seize the spear in his powerful teeth, and nip it off like a reed, or, coming full tilt on his enemy, by his momentum and weight bear him to the earth, ripping up, with a horrid gash, his leg or side, and before the writhing hunter could draw his knife, the infuriated beast would plunge his snout in the wound, and rip, with savage teeth, the bowels of his victim. At other times, he would suddenly swerve from his charge, and doubling on his opponent, attack the hunter in the rear. From his speed, great weight, and savage disposition, the wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist, and requires great courage, coolness, and agility on the part of the hunter. The continental sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade, with music and dogs, --a kind of small hound or mastiff, and leaving all the honorary part of the contest to them, when the boar is becoming weary, and while beset by the dogs, rides up, and drives his lance home in the beast's back or side. Boar-hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in England, the animal no longer existing in a wild state among us; but in our Indian empire, and especially in Bengal, the pastime is pursued by our countrymen with all the daring of the national character; and as the animal which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe, the sport is attended with great excitement. The hunters, mounted on small, active horses, and armed only with long lances, ride, at early daylight, to the skirts of the jungle, and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait till the tusked monster comes crashing from among the canes, when chase is immediately given, till he is come up with, and transfixed by the first weapon. Instead of flight, however, he often turns to bay, and by more than one dead horse and wounded hunter, shows how formidable he is, and what those polished tusks, sharp as pitch-forks, can effect, when the enraged animal defends his life. 

TO GLAZE HAM. --(See Recipe No. 430. )

HASHED PORK. 

801. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1teaspoonful of flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1tablespoonful of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork intothin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to theremaining ingredients. Stew gently for about 1/2 hour, and servegarnished with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS. 

802. INGREDIENTS. --Bacon; eggs. 

_Mode_. --Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts, andcut off the rind. Put it into a cold frying-pan, that is to say, do notplace the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them onto the bacon, without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. For theprimest parts. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish tomany dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitutefor boiled bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c. 

BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish). 

803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free fromrust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and forbroiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the mostesteemed. Cut it into _thin_ slices, take off the rind, and broil over anice clear fire; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should therebe any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well forbreakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. For the primest parts. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled roundand fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before thefire. 

BOILED BACON. 

804. INGREDIENTS. --Bacon; water. 

[Illustration: BOILED BACON. ]

_Mode_. --As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked inwarm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off therusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put it into a saucepan of _cold_ water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it. Let it simmer very gently until it is _thoroughly_ done; then take itup, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few breadraspings, and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are theusual accompaniments. 

_Time_. --1 lb. Of bacon, 1/4 hour; 2 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. For the primest parts. 

_Sufficient_. --2 lbs. , when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY. 

805. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of coarse sugar, 1-1/2 lb. Of bay-salt, 6oz. Of saltpetre, 1 lb. Of common salt. 

_Mode_. --Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rubit well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month;then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days. 

_Time_. --To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days. 

_Sufficient_. --The above quantity of salt for 1 pig. 

 HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED. --Though unquestionably far greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than formerly, every peasant having one or more of that useful animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household, their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or grant, what was called _free warren_, or the liberty to feed his hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay in such abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal or privileged game to consume. Indeed, it was the license granted the nobles of free warren, especially for their swine, that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts of wood and brake, to the injury of agriculture and the misery of the people. Some idea of the extent to which swine were grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean, and the New Forest, in Hampshire, where, for several months of the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated, the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous; and consequently the pig, both wild and domestic, has, for a considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of admirable nourishment. Impressed with the value of this fruit for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort has, with great judgment, of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in Windsor Park, and by giving a small reward to old people and children for every bushel collected, has not only found an occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of providence and economy. 

FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE FROM RUST (Cobbett's Recipe). 

806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, and which are called flitches, are to becured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, orflesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, ina salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away thebrine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not besopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel andsea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh drysalt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the saltoften, --once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie toolong; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first onthe top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than thesopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitchessufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer timefor a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather, or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of fivescore, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and asyours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, givetime enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again. 

807. THE PLACE FOR SALTING SHOULD, like a dairy, always be cool, butwell ventilated; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner thanthe midday day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking thebacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches whereno rain comes down upon them; and next, that the smoke must proceed fromwood, not peat, turf, or coal. As to the time required to smoke aflitch, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant firebeneath; and whether the fire be large or small: a month will do, if thefire be pretty constant and rich, as a farmhouse fire usually is; butover-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the baconrust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. Theflitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet itought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some finesawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well downupon it: this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, andmakes a sort of crust to be dried on. 

808. To KEEP THE BACON SWEET AND GOOD, and free from hoppers, sift finesome clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chestlong enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay in one flitch, and then putin more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eightinches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought tobe dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in thefireplace to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day. 

809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these may be safely taken as a guide; andthose who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at theexpiration of from 6 weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-curedbacon. 

 HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON. --As Lord Bacon, on one occasion, was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the name of Hogg, who had just been tried for a long career of crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he addressed the bench, "I claim indulgence, my lord, on the plea of relationship; for I am convinced your lordship will never be unnatural enough to hang one of your own family. "

 "Indeed, replied the judge, with some amazement, " I was not aware that I had the honour of your alliance; perhaps you will be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity. "

 "I am sorry, my lord, " returned the impudent thief, "I cannot trace the links of consanguinity; but the moral evidence is sufficiently pertinent. My name, my lord, is Hogg, your lordship's is Bacon; and all the world will allow that bacon and hog are very closely allied. "

 "I am sorry, " replied his lordship, "I cannot admit the truth of your instance: hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so, before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge the family compact, Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning. "

TO BAKE A HAM. 

810. INGREDIENTS. --Ham; a common crust. 

Mode. --As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in waterfor at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty placesunderneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this isof sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in amoderately-heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust, and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, andgarnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is, by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as it cutsfuller of gravy and has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longertime good. 

_Time_. --A medium-sized ham, 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. By the whole ham. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

TO BOIL A HAM. 

[Illustration: BOILED HAM. ]

811. INGREDIENTS. --Ham, water, glaze or raspings. 

_Mode_. --In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, byrunning a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knifeis withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on thecontrary, the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the hamis bad. If it has been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let itremain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This lengthof time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Washit thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side, all the rustyand smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into aboiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it graduallyto boil, and as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmeringvery gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling, nor boil too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off theskin, and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cutpaper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the hamremain in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices arekept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out ofthe water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must_not_ remain in the saucepan _all_ night. When the skin is removed, sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it. Place a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cutvegetable flowers. (_See_ Coloured Plate P. )

_Time_. --A ham weighing 10 lbs. , 4 hours to _simmer gently_; 15 lbs. , 5hours; a very large one, about 5 hours. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. By the whole ham. 

_Seasonable_ all the year. 

HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT FLAVOUR. 

812. INGREDIENTS. --Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs. 

_Mode_. --Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak fora few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when itboils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put apaper ruche or frill round the knuckle. 

_Time_. --A ham weighing 10 lbs. , 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. To 10d. Per lb. By the whole ham. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V. --When the emperor Charles V. Was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna, full of pious considerations, engendered by the thoughts of the Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was much annoyed by the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little way before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise, "Have you not learned how to quiet a pig" demanded the imperial traveller, tartly. "Noa, " replied the ingenuous peasant, ignorant of the quality of his interrogator;--"noa; and I should very much like to know how to do it, " changing the position of his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the ear, which immediately altered the tone and volume of his complaining. 

 "Why, take the pig by the tail, " said the emperor, "and you will see how quiet he will become. "

 Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once dangled his noisy companion by the tail, and soon discovered that, under the partial congestion caused by its inverted position, the pig had indeed become silent; when, looking with admiration on his august adviser, he exclaimed, --

 "Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you understand it a great deal better. "

FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish). 

813. INGREDIENTS. --Ham; eggs. 

_Mode_. --Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of thesame thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should beparticularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to soak itfor about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth. Put itinto a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them on a dish, whichshould be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs arebeing poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the slices of ham, andserve quickly. 

_Time_. --7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. By the whole ham. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the lattermethod, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifullyclear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable. 

POTTED HAM, that will keep Good for some time. 

I. 

814. INGREDIENTS. --To 4 lbs. Of lean ham allow 1 lb. Of fat, 2teaspoonfuls of pounded mace, 1/2 nutmeg grated, rather more than 1/2teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified lard. 

_Mode_. --Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above proportion, and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, poundedmace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish, and bake for1/2 hour; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar withclarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of thickpaper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and will befound very convenient for sandwiches, &c. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

(_A nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table_. )

815. INGREDIENTS. --To 2 lbs. Of lean ham allow 1/2 lb. Of fat, 1teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/2nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince themsmall, and to every 2 lbs. Of lean, allow the above proportion of fat. Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually addthe seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all theingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press themixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in acool place. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c. --The boar's head, in ancient times, formed the most important dish on the table, and was invariably the first placed on the board upon Christmas-day, being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord of the feast. At some of our colleges and inns of court, the serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas-day is a custom still followed; and till very lately, a bore's head was competed for at Christmas time by the young men of a rural parish in Essex. Indeed, so highly was the grizzly boar's head regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm: thus it was not only the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, with their collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III. , that--

 "Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar, That spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines, Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough In your embowell'd bosoms, "--

 and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally used as a _sign_ to taverns. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap, which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the London-bridge approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of the prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff and his coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; and whose sign was a boar's head, carved in stone over the door, and a smaller one in wood on each side of the doorway. 

 The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable connected with the subject in this country, were two events that occurred in Scotland, about the 11th and 15th centuries. 

 A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and lands by a more powerful chief, were reduced for many years to great indigence, the expelled owner only living in the hope of wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of his house, he was content to "bide his time" for. The usurper having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors. At length a menial approached, followed by a line of servants, and placing the boar's head on the table, the guests rushed forward to begin the meal; when, to their horror, they discovered, not a boar's but a bull's head, --a sign of death. The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who were the adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their disguise, and falling on the usurper and his friends, butchered them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival faction. 

 A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western Highlands, having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put them all to the sword, and cutting off the chief's head, repaired to his castle, where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food and drink. To appease their savage humour, the lady gave order for their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to see her orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar's head that should have graced the board, her husband's bleeding head; the savage caterans, in rude derision, as a substitute for the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth. 

FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe). 

816. INGREDIENTS. --For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. Each, allow 1lb. Of moist sugar, 1 lb. Of common salt, 2 oz. Of saltpetre, 1 quart ofgood vinegar. 

_Mode_. --As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hamsand rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams, andthrow the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in theabove proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into avessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Letthem remain for 3 days, then pour over them a quart of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, andrub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particularthat the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire; otherwisethe fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard. 

_Time_. --To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 hams of 18 lbs. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

 THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA. --In one of the native states of Africa, a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth; upon which the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her hovel to ascertain the cause; and seeing the purloining pig make off munching his booty, the woman in her heat struck the grunter so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into his head to go home very much indisposed, and after a certain time resolved to die, --a resolution that he accordingly put into practice; upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the Star Chamber court of his tribe, against the husband and family of the woman whose rash act had led to such results; and as the pig happened to be a _sow_, in the very flower of her age, the prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs, with the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages and costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay them. And as, in the barbarous justice existing among these rude people, every member of a family is equally liable as the individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother, children, relatives, --an entire community, to the number of _thirty-two souls_, were sold as slaves, and a fearful sum of human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old sow. 

TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. Each. 

817. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of treacle, 1/2 lb. Of saltpetre, 1 lb. Ofbay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt. 

_Mode_. --Two days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams wellwith salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes from themaway, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in adeep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above proportion oftreacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 1/4 hour, and pourthis pickle boiling hot over the hams: there should be sufficient of itto cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it; afterwards theywill only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearlyor quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled in this way is mostexcellent, to be eaten either green or smoked. 

_Time_. --To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked abouta month. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY. 

818. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of common salt, 3 lbs. Of coarse sugar, 1 lb. Of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer. 

_Mode_. --Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding daywell with salt, and drain the brine well from them. Put the aboveingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 1/4 hour; pour over the hams, and let them remain a month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the pickling-pan; and have them smoked for amonth. 

_Time_. --To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe). 

819. INGREDIENTS. --To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs. , allow 1 lb. Of coarsesugar, 3/4 lb. Of salt, 1 oz. Of saltpetre, 1/2 a teacupful of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day ortwo to drain; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar, salt, saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in thepickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood firefor 3 weeks or a month. 

_Time_. --To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or 1month. 

_Sufficient_. --The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham. 

_Seasonable_. --Hams should be pickled from October to March. 

 NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG. --It is a well-known fact, that in Ireland the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated animal, sharing often both the bed and board of the family, and making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated round the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called dinner. An Irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting member of his household, in the form of a promising young porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted at the person he suspected of purloining the "illegant slip of a pig" he was advised to take no further notice of the matter, but leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday his reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and looking very hard at the supposed culprit, exclaimed, "Who stole Pat Doolan's pig?" To this inquiry there was of course no answer;--the priest did not expect there would be any. The following Sunday the same query was propounded a little stronger--"Who of you was it, I say, who stole poor Pat Doolan's pig?" It now became evident that the culprit was a hardened sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the unsatisfactory inquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious sorrow, "Mike Regan, Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, when the family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly lifted, and the "illegant slip of a pig" cautiously slipped into the cabin. 

TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME. 

820. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place toput a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron panfilled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned thetub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce theiron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain40 hours, and keep up a good smoke. 

TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY. 

821. INGREDIENTS. --To every 14 lbs. Of meat, allow 2 oz. Of saltpetre, 2oz. Of salt prunella, 1 lb. Of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons ofwater, 5 lbs. Of common salt, 7 lbs. Of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. Ofbay-salt. 

_Mode_. --Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. Allowthe above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common salt. Poundand mix these together, and rub well into the meat; lay it in a stonetrough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it daily for 2successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle madeas follows:--Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on thefire, and stir frequently; remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 1/4hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c. , be well rubbedand turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficientfor the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3weeks; if from 30 lbs. And upwards, 3 weeks will be required for thesides, &c. , and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the piecesout, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke froma fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it foruse, add about 2 lbs. Of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allowfor waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having beenfirst rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part ofthe tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. Afortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will besufficient. 

_Time_--Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams 3 weeks; tobe smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks. 

The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture, " and will befound fully worthy of the high character of that publication. 

CURING OF HAMS AND BACON. 

822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laidon a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body atthe neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat areremoved. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the followingmanner:--The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with theinternal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it, throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion ofthe carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge--the breadth of theinterior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch ofthe ribs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at theexterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the firstanterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole ofthe ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noticed, isa very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include thehock-bone, in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch ofmutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, which process, in large caring establishments, is generally as follows. The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty partsby weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incisedparts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered withthe same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides toeach other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benchesslightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey thebrine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwardsused for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the baconremains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of acarcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. To the stone). Flitches of alarger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversedin their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half thefirst quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside andincised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week. Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lbs. Weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under theabove-described process. The next and last process in the preparation ofbacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This iseffected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a roomheated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for thesame length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of thesawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing thecuring process has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat issubject to the action of _creosote_, a volatile oil produced by thecombustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The processalso furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the airnot only from the muscle but also from the fat; thus effectuallypreventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons forcondemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of porkare, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent inthe process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of theair, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding itssuperior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour whichsmoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it istherefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted bymercantile curers. A very impure variety of _pyroligneous_ acid, orvinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimesused, on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote whichit contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latterobject, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than thatderived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portionof the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that countrypacked amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process, without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting abovedescribed, pork loses from eight to ten per cent. Of its weight, according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminutionof weight, to the extent of five to six per cent. , takes place in dryingduring the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that thetotal loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams ina proper state for market, is not less on an average than fifteen percent. On the weight of the fresh pork. 

COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish). 

823. INGREDIENTS. --1 pig's face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of springwater, 1 lb. Of common salt, 1/2 handful of chopped juniper-berries, 6bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, 1/4oz. Of saltpetre. For forcemeat, 1/2 lb. Of ham, 1/2 lb. Bacon, 1teaspoonful of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. Of lard, 1tablespoonful of minced parsley, 6 young onions. 

[Illustration: PIG'S FACE. ]

_Mode_. --Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin, and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the aboveingredients for 1/4 hour, and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pourit over the head, and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning andrubbing it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, poundthe ham and bacon very finely, and mix with these the remainingingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Spread this equally over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bindit securely with broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meattrimmings, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours, and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time. Whenquite tender, take it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight onthe top, and when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent totable on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with aruche at the top. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Average cost_, from 2s. To 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

 THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG. --The domestic hog is the descendant of a race long since banished from this island; and it is remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been and is kept under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has maintained itself in its ancient freedom, the fierce denizen of the forest, and one of the renowned beasts of the chase. Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the horse, the ox, and others, or as to whether their original race is yet extant or not, these doubts do not apply to the domestic hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally recognized: like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from our island; but, like that animal, it still roams through the vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia. 

TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savoury Dish). 

824. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves, 3 lbs. Of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over itsome minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; slicethe potatoes; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat fry, then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. Fill the dishwith boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

TO MELT LARD. 

825. Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting it in a stone jar, andplacing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping offthe skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pourit carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders foruse, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig, before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularlywholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, andoccasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

BOILED LEG OF PORK. 

826. INGREDIENTS. --Leg of pork; salt. 

_Mode_. --For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rubit well with salt; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put itinto cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork ispurchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle, and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient coldwater to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scumas it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it toboil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of theleg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish, and awell-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment. 

_Time_. --A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs. , 3 hours after the water boils, and to be simmered very gently. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Note_. --The liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled, makesexcellent pea-soup. 

 ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG. --The hog has survived changes which have swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of our earth. It still presents the same characteristics, both physical and moral, which the earliest writers, whether sacred or profane, have faithfully delineated. Although the domestic has been more or less modified by long culture, yet the wild species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may be identified with the bones of their existing descendants. 

ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK. 

827. INGREDIENTS. --Pork; a little powdered sage. 

[Illustration: SPARE-RIB OF PORK. ]

[Illustration: GRISKIN OF PORK. ]

_Mode_. --As this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry, particular care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to abright fire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up, sprinkle over some powdered sage; make a little gravy in thedripping-pan, strain it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of applesauce. This joint will be done in far less time than when the skin isleft on, consequently, should have the greatest attention that it be notdried up. 

_Time_. --Griskin of pork weighing 6 lbs. , 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

_Note_. --A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, andwould take 1-1/2 hour for one weighing about 6 lbs. 

[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE. ]

LARDING. 

828. INGREDIENTS. --Bacon and larding-needle. 

_Mode_. --Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be curedwithout any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table, the rinds downwards; trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices ofan equal thickness. Place the slices one on the top of another, and cutthem evenly into narrow strips, so arranging it that every piece ofbacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game, should be about 2 inches in length, and rather more than one-eighth ofan inch in width. If for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal, thepieces of bacon must be thicker. The following recipe of Soyer is, wethink, very explicit; and any cook, by following the directions heregiven, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently for general use. 

"Have the fricandeau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean napkinacross your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the partyou are about to commence at; then with the point of the larding-needlemake three distinct lines across, 1/2 inch apart; run the needle intothe third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and bring it outat the first, placing one of the lardoons in it; draw the needlethrough, leaving out 1/4 inch of the bacon at each line; proceed thus tothe end of the row; then make another line, 1/2 inch distant, stick inanother row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leavingthe ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the next row againat the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardoons of thefirst row, proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is lardedin chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a similar way; and, inthe case of poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for oneminute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to make the flesh firm. "

ROAST LOIN OF PORK. 

829. INGREDIENTS. --Pork; a little salt. 

[Illustration: FORE LOIN OF PORK. ]

[Illustration: HIND LOIN OF PORK. ]

_Mode_. --Score the skin in strips rather more than 1/4 inch apart, andplace the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of thecrackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated through, were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed over with alittle salad oil, and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire. Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; and be careful neverto send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is more unwholesomeand disagreeable than underdressed white meats. Serve with apple sauce, No. 363, and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sageand onion may be made separately, and baked in a flat dish: this methodis better than putting it in the meat, as many persons have so great anobjection to the flavour. 

_Time_. --A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs. , about 2 hours: allow more timeshould it be very fat. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG. --In British strata, the oldest fossil remains of the hog which Professor Owen states that he has examined, were from fissures in the red crag (probably miocene) of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were associated with teeth of an extinct _felis_ about the size of a leopard, with those of a bear, and with remains of a large cervus. These mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the red crag: they had undergone the same process of trituration, and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammaliferous beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, in which remains of the mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered; and still older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. Are obtained in such abundance. I have met, " says the professor, in addition, "with some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains of a species of hog with those of the mammoth, in the newer pliocene freshwater formations of England. "

TO DRY PIGS' CHEEKS. 

830. INGREDIENTS. --Salt, 4 oz. Of saltpetre, 2 oz. Of bay-salt, 4 oz. Ofcoarse sugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head, taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape; rub it wellwith salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the followingday; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in theabove proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head be oftenturned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for aweek or rather longer. 

_Time_. --To remain in the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 week. 

_Seasonable_. --Should be made from September to March. 

_Note_. --A pig's check, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after thewater boils. 

PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish). 

831. INGREDIENTS. --The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices ofbacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water. 

_Mode_. --Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean, andparboil the potatoes; mince the parsley and sage, and chop the onionrather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep tin dish, inalternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a seasoning ofpepper and salt between each; pour on a little water or broth, and bakein a moderately-heated oven for 2 hours. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

PIG'S PETTITOES. 

832. INGREDIENTS. --A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt totaste, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with thebacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer thesegently for 1/4 hour; then take out the heart and liver, and mince themvery fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be infrom 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled upfirst; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a littlebutter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentlefire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince, split the feet, and arrange them round alternately with sippets oftoasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle. 

_Time_. --Altogether 40 minutes. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

TO PICKLE PORK. 

833. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of saltpetre; salt. 

_Mode_. --As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it intopieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces ofpork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of itbetween each piece: as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a coarsecloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the board, tokeep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air, it willcontinue good for nearly 2 years. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. For the prime parts. 

_Seasonable_. --The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn. 

 THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG. --A singular circumstance in the domestic history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution over the surface of the earth; being found even in insulated places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, for example, were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a small black hog; and the traditionary belief of the people was that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves. Yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other animal of the hog kind, from which the domestic breed might be supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is the principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its principal food, although it is also fed with yams, eddoes, and other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has in great abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh being so delicious, so full of juice, and so rich in fat, which is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter. 

TO BOIL PICKLED PORK. 

834. INGREDIENTS. --Pork; water. 

_Mode_. --Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2hours before it is dressed; put it into a saucepan with sufficient coldwater to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmeruntil quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is moredisagreeable than underdone pork, and when boiled fast, the meat becomeshard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of bacon: when tender, and not over salt, it will be foundequally good. 

_Time_. --A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs. , 1-1/4 hour; 4 lbs. , rather more than 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. For the primest parts. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG. --By what nation and in what period the hog was reclaimed, is involved in the deepest obscurity. So far back as we have any records of history, we find notices of this animal, and of its flesh being used as the food of man. By some nations, however, its flesh was denounced as unclean, and therefore prohibited to be used, whilst by others it was esteemed as a great delicacy. By the Mosaic law it was forbidden to be eaten by the Jews, and the Mahometans hold it in utter abhorrence. Dr. Kitto, however, says that there does not appear to be any reason in the law of Moses why the hog should be held in such peculiar abomination. There seems nothing to have prevented the Jews, if they had been so inclined, to rear pigs for sale, or for the use of the land. In the Talmud there are some indications that this was actually done; and it was, probably, for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in the New Testament were kept, although it is usual to consider that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land. Indeed, the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the Hebrews to the hog, assumes that it did not originate until about 130 years before Christ, and that, previously, some Jews were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated. 

PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe). 

835. INGREDIENTS. --For the crust, 5 lbs. Of lard to 14 lbs. Of flour, milk, and water. For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. Of meat allow 1oz. Of salt, 2-1/4 oz. Of pepper, a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Rub into the flour a portion of the lard; the remainder putwith sufficient milk and water to mix the crust, and boil this gentlyfor 1/4 hour. Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead and beat it tillperfectly smooth. Now raise the crust in either a round or oval form, cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut, season it in the aboveproportion, and press it compactly into the pie, in alternate layers offat and lean, and pour in a small quantity of water; lay on the lid, cutthe edges smoothly round, and pinch them together. Bake in a brick oven, which should be slow, as the meat is very solid. Very frequently, theinexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust. Sheshould bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold, or it willfall immediately: to prevent this, the operation should be performed asnear the fire as possible. As considerable dexterity and expertness arenecessary to raise the crust with the hand only, a glass bottle or smalljar may be placed in the middle of the paste, and the crust moulded onthis; but be particular that it is kept warm the whole time. 

_Sufficient_. --The proportions for 1 pie are 1 lb. Of flour and 3 lbs. Of meat. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 THE FLESH OF SWINE IN HOT CLIMATES. --It is observed by M. Sonini, that the flesh of swine, in hot climates, is considered unwholesome, and therefore may account for its proscription by the legislators and priests of the East. In Egypt, Syria, and even the southern parts of Greece, although both white and delicate, it is so flabby and surcharged with fat, that it disagrees with the strongest stomachs. Abstinence from it in general was, therefore, indispensable to health under the burning suns of Egypt and Arabia. The Egyptians were permitted to eat it only once a year, --on the feast of the moon; and then they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet. At other seasons, should any one even touch a hog, he was obliged immediately to plunge into the river Nile, as he stood, with his clothes on, in order to purify himself from the supposed contamination he had contracted by the touch. 

LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES. 

836. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of muttonsuet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. Of the neck of pork, 1dessertspoonful of powdered sage. 

_Mode_. --Well dry the flour, mince the suet, and put these with thebutter into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add a little salt. Whenmelted, mix it up into a stiff paste, and put it before the fire with acloth over it until ready to make up; chop the pork into small pieces, season it with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage; divide the pasteinto rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval form, fill withthe meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will require a fierceroven than those in the preceding recipe, as they are made so muchsmaller, and consequently do not require so soaking a heat. 

_Time_. --If made small, about 1-1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 SWINEHERDS OF ANTIQUITY. --From the prejudice against the hog among the ancients, those who tended them formed an isolated class, and were esteemed as the outcasts of society. However much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and Romans, yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic writers or the poets who, in ancient Greece and Rome, painted rural life. We have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending to the occupation of keeping swine. The swineherd is never introduced into the idyls of Theocritus, nor has Virgil admitted him into his eclogues. The Eumaeus of Homer is the only exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the eyes of a poet of antiquity. This may be accounted for, on the supposition that the prejudices of the Egyptians relative to this class of men, extended to both Greece and Italy, and imparted a bias to popular opinion. 

TO MAKE SAUSAGES. 

(_Author's Oxford Recipe_. )

837. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle;1 lb. Of lean veal, 1 lb. Of beef suet, 1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, therind of 1/2 lemon, 1 small nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful ofpepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of savory, 1/2teaspoonful of marjoram. 

_Mode_. --Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the breadcrumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small nutmeggrated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these with theremaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it intolittle cakes, which should be floured and fried. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for about 30 moderate-sized sausages. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March. 

 THE HOG IN ENGLAND. --From time immemorial, in England, this animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance. In the Anglo-Saxon period, vast herds of swine were tended by men, who watched over their safety, and who collected them under shelter at night. At that time, the flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption in every family, and a large portion of the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these animals. Hence it was common to make bequests of swine, with lands for their support; and to these were attached rights and privileges in connection with their feeding, and the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in accordance with established rules. This is proved by an ancient Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner, in his "History of the Anglo-Saxons, " where the right of pasturage is conveyed in a deed by the following words:--"I give food for seventy swine in that woody allotment which the countrymen call Wolferdinlegh. "

FRIED SAUSAGES. 

[Illustration: FRIED SAUSAGES. ]

838. INGREDIENTS. --Sausages; a small piece of butter. 

_Mode_. --Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them frombursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter. Keep moving the pan about, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked, unless they are _verylarge_, when a little more time should be allowed for them. Dish themwith or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very hot. In somecounties, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should beplunged into boiling water, and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes. 

_Time_. --10 to 12 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_. --Good from September to March. 

_Note_. --Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour;to prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a smallpiece of butter to keep them moist. When wanted for table, they will notrequire so long frying as uncooked sausages. 

 THE SAXON SWINEHERD. --The men employed in herding swine during the Anglo-Saxon period of our history were, in general, thralls or born slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue. In the "Ivanhoe" of Sir Walter Scott, we have an admirable picture, in the character of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, as we also have of his master, a large landed proprietor, a great portion of whose wealth consisted of swine, and whose rude but plentiful board was liberally supplied with the flesh. 

SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES. 

839. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of lean pork, add 3/4 lb. Of fat bacon, 1/4 oz. Of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of gratednutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley. 

_Mode_. --Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop itfinely with the bacon; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully mixaltogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-sizedcakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes. Thisis a very simple method of making sausage-meat, and on trial will provevery good, its great recommendation being, that it is so easily made. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG. 

840. Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remainfor a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair asquickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down thebelly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash thepig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at thefirst joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it fromthe air. 

 THE LEARNED PIG. --That the pig is capable of education, is a fact long known to the world; and though, like the ass, naturally stubborn and obstinate, that he is equally amenable with other animals to caresses and kindness, has been shown from very remote time; the best modern evidence of his docility, however, is the instance of the learned pig, first exhibited about a century since, but which has been continued down to our own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put together all the letters or figures that compose the day, month, hour, and date of the exhibition, besides many other unquestioned evidences of memory. The instance already given of breaking a sow into a pointer, till she became more stanch even than the dog itself, though surprising, is far less wonderful than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an animal may be taught not only to spell, but couple figures and give dates correctly. 

ROAST SUCKING-PIG. 

841. INGREDIENTS. --Pig, 6 oz. Of bread crumbs, 16 sage-leaves, pepperand salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil orbutter to baste with, about 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice. 

[Illustration: ROAST SUCKING-PIG. ]

_Mode_. --A sucking-pig, to be eaten in perfection, should not be morethan three weeks old, and should be dressed the same day that it iskilled. After preparing the pig for cooking, as in the preceding recipe, stuff it with finely-grated bread crumbs, minced sage, pepper, salt, anda piece of butter the size of an egg, all of which should be well mixedtogether, and put into the body of the pig. Sew up the slit neatly, andtruss the legs back, to allow the inside to be roasted, and the underpart to be crisp. Put the pig down to a bright clear fire, not too near, and let it lay till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter tied upin a piece of thin cloth, and rub the pig with this in every part. Keepit well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting, anddo not allow the crackling to become blistered or burnt. When half-done, hang a pig-iron before the middle part (if this is not obtainable, use aflat iron), to prevent its being scorched and dried up before the endsare done. Before it is taken from the fire, cut off the head, and partthat and the body down the middle. Chop the brains and mix them with thestuffing; add 1/2 pint of good gravy, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and the gravy that flowed from the pig; put a little of this on the dishwith the pig, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Place the pigback to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each side, andone of the ears at each end, and send it to table as hot as possible. Instead of butter, many cooks take salad oil for basting, which makesthe crackling crisp; and as this is one of the principal things to beconsidered, perhaps it is desirable to use it; but be particular that itis very pure, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat. Thebrains and stuffing may be stirred into a tureen of melted butterinstead of gravy, when the latter is not liked. Apple sauce and theold-fashioned currant sauce are not yet quite obsolete as anaccompaniment to roast pig. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours for a small pig. 

_Average cost_, 5s. To 6s. 

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

 HOW ROAST PIG WAS DISCOVERED. --Charles Lamb, who, in the early part of this century, delighted the reading public by his quaint prose sketches, written under the title of "Essays of Elia, " has, in his own quiet humorous way, devoted one paper to the subject of _Roast Pig_, and more especially to that luxurious and toothsome dainty known as "CRACKLING;" and shows, in a manner peculiarly his own, _how crackling first came into the world. _

 According to this erudite authority, man in the golden age, or at all events the primitive age, eat his pork and bacon raw, as, indeed, he did his beef and mutton; unless, as Hudibras tells us, he was an epicure, when he used to make a saddle of his saddle of mutton, and after spreading it on his horse's back, and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed, he sat down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn. At the epoch of the story, however, a citizen of some Scythian community had the misfortune to have his hut, or that portion of it containing his live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going over the _débris_ on the following day, and picking out all the available salvage, the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot, which caused him to shake his hand with great energy, and clap the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth. The act was simple and natural, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstatic pleasure, his frame distended, and, conscious of a celestial odour, his nostrils widened, and, while drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked his fingers with a gusto he had never, in his most hungry moments, conceived. Clearing away the rubbish from beneath him, he at last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs, _roasted to death_. Stooping down to examine this curious object, and touching its body, a fragment of the burnt skin was detached, which, with a sort of superstitious dread, he at length, and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry, put into his mouth. Ye gods! the felicity he then enjoyed, no pen can chronicle! Then it was that he--the world--first tasted _crackling_. Like a miser with his gold, the Scythian hid his treasure from the prying eyes of the world, and feasted, in secret, more sumptuously than the gods. When he had eaten up all his pig, the poor man fell into a melancholy; he refused the most tempting steak, though cooked on the horse's back, and turned every half-hour after his own favourite recipe; he fell, in fact, from his appetite, and was reduced to a shadow, till, unable longer to endure the torments of memory he hourly suffered, he rose one night and secretly set fire to his hut, and once more was restored to flesh and manhood. Finding it impossible to live in future without roast-pig, he set fire to his house every time his larder became empty; till at last his neighbours, scandalized by the frequency of these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation. To avert the penalty that awaited him, he brought his judges to the smouldering ruins, and discovering the secret, invited them to eat; which having done, with tears of gratitude, the august synod embraced him, and, with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy, dedicated a statue to the memory of the man who first _instituted roast pork_. 

PORK CARVING. 

SUCKING-PIG. 

[Illustration: SUCKING-PIG. ]

842. A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, rather an elaborate dish, orrather animal, to carve; but by carefully mastering the details of thebusiness, every difficulty will vanish; and if a partial failure be atfirst made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a secondtrial. A sucking-pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in theengraving (and also in coloured plate S), and the first point to beattended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase, by carryingthe knife quickly and neatly round the circular line, as shown by thefigures 1, 2, 3;--the shoulder will then easily come away. The next stepis to take off the leg; and this is done in the same way, by cuttinground this joint in the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, in thesame way as the shoulder. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, which should be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5; andtwo or three helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pigis served, of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig arevariously esteemed; some preferring the flesh of the neck; others, theribs; and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of asucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating; but, in carving it, the hostshould consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keeping thelarger joints, generally, for the gentlemen of the party. 

HAM. 

[Illustration: HAM. ]

843. In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desiresto practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the primepart. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham. To reach thechoicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should becarried quite down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. Theslices should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone. Thereare some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top, and thenslicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the circle; butwe think this a plan not to be recommended. A ham, when hot, is usuallysent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle; when cold, it isserved in the manner shown by coloured plate P. 

LEG OF PORK. 

[Illustration: LEG OF PORK. ]

844. This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easyto carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, cleanthrough the crackling, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. Sago andonion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with thisdish, --sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed, --and the guests should beasked if they will have either or both. A frequent plan, and we think agood one, is now pursued, of sending sage and onion to table separatelyfrom the joint, as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of thisstuffing is agreeable. 

_Note_. --The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks asto their carving or helping. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF. 

845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be in ameasure supplementary to the more copious observations made on theparent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identifiedwith veal, is destined to die young, --to be, indeed, cut off in itscomparative infancy, --it may, at first sight, appear of little or noconsequence to inquire to what particular variety, or breed of thegeneral stock, his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, inthe modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shallnot only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable, but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a frame thatshall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly thatevery _quantum_ of food it takes shall, without drawback orprocrastination, be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, isof very considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality ofthe meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder andbutcher. 

846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM adopted in the rearing of domesticcattle, and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary mandates ofluxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in themarket, though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make itsappearance is about the beginning of February. 

847. THE COW GOES WITH YOUNG FOR NINE MONTHS, and the affection andsolicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tendernessmid intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distresswhen she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with herdistended udders, is often painful to witness, and when the calf hasdied, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuseto give down her milk. At such times, the breeder has adopted theexpedient of flaying the dead carcase, and, distending the skin withhay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advantage of hersolicitude, milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue. 

848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, like the deer, hides her young inthe tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only atstated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening tothe secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same, circumspection returns to the community. 

849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to please the epicurean taste of vitiatedappetites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediatelyafter birth, and any accident that forestalls that event, is consideredto enhance its value. We are happy to say, however, that in thiscountry, as far as England and Scotland are concerned, the taste forvery young veal has entirely gone out, and "Staggering Bob, " as the poorlittle animal was called in the language of the shambles, is no longerto be met with in such a place. 

850. THE WEANING OF CALVES is a process that requires a great amount ofcare and judgment; for though they are in reality not weaned tillbetween the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them byhand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed tosuck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a veryimportant and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges hisstock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the sametime; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find food for the entirefamily, gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains ofmilk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an ideathat skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough forthe weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake, for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all theoleaginous principles, and the azote or nitrogen, on which the vivifyingproperties of that fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has thisfact proved to be, that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed withfive of water, will thrive and look well; while another, treated withunlimited skimmed milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable. 

851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce theblundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that hewill do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge ofimbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill abottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down histhroat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into themystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a largewooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bendingher fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in hislips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes themilk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one thewhole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, thatnew-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has somedays calved. 

852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires tobe increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can bethickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake areto be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolvethere, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it maybe softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time, sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerablequantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to theothers. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for thebutcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weaknessof the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, andallow the animals either to suck _ad libitum_, or give them, if broughtup at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they candigest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself totheir minds. They suppose that the more food the young creatureconsumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercisewhatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Undersuch circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions areno longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of thestomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the musclesbecome affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues. 

853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country soinhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killingthis poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh _white_, thecalf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal wasunable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhereabolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount ofpain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all thelarge veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken offto the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; itis then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened anddressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul, extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys andsweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the wholeinterior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that isthought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool andharden. 

854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to dividethe carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter;which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut. 

[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS. ]

 _Hind quarter_:--

 1. The loin. 2. The chump, consisting of the rump and hock-bone. 3. The fillet. 4. The hock, or hind knuckle. 

 _Fore quarter_:--

 5. The shoulder. 6. The neck. 7. The breast. 8. The fore knuckle. 

855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eightweeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--loin and chump 18 lbs. , fillet 12-1/2 lbs. , hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs. , shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11lbs. , breast 9 lbs. , and fore knuckle 5 lbs. ; making a total of 144 lbs. Weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better thanthat pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and oneboiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided, as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on thetable. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

856. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful ofminced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4eggs. 

_Mode_. --Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy, and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up theeggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into adish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy maybe served in a tureen as an accompaniment. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

ROAST BREAST OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL. ]

857. INGREDIENTS. --Veal; a little flour. 

_Mode_. --Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put itdown to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Basteit plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good meltedbutter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cutlemon. 

_Time_. --From 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS. 

858. INGREDIENTS. --Breast of veal, 2 oz. Of butter, a bunch of savouryherbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful ofpepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, green peas. 

_Mode_. --Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, anddivide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into afrying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice browncolour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves, onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them justsufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and letthe whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravyas is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remainingingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour itover the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinklethese over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeatballs, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up themeat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should behalf-roasted before the water, &c. Are put to it. 

_Time_. --2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 BREEDING OF CALVES. --The forwarding of calves to maturity, whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however, has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as _stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf _entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_, --things to be desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet, for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk, but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself: this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the young animal, is called weaning. 

VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic). 

859. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of coldham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a littlepepper, good gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggsinto slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley inlayers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full, get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, andwhen cold, turn it out. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER. 

860. INGREDIENTS. --2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. Of butter, 2tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley andbutter No. 493. 

_Mode_. --Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the firstjoint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put thebacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into astewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover thewhole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, andcover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor theywere boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use:it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED. --The age at which a calf ought to be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend, whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty. 

FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET. 

861. INGREDIENTS. --A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for eachegg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lardor clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm waterrepeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other, until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept bythe fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in coldwater, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bonescome easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquorinto a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day. Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiffbatter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion;season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard. Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute ortwo, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Thisshould be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful tohave the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will runabout the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and willbe found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e. 

_Time_. --About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons. 

 COLOUR OF VEAL. --As whiteness of flesh is considered a great advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves, are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal will be white or florid. 

COLLARED CALF'S HEAD. 

862. INGREDIENTS. --A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepperto taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard. 

_Mode_. --Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, andwith a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide thehead and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones, which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it onthe table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer ofham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put aseasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer;roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boilit for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavyweight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain tillcold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. To 7s. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 FEEDING A CALF. --The amount of milk necessary for a calf for some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased, according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as adjuncts or substitutes. 

FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree). 

863. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint ofthe liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice, forcemeat balls. 

_Mode_. --Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nicesquare pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into asaucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the aboveproportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and putin the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a littlebutter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put inthe beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after thesetwo latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or itwill curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiledbacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish themeat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set, the sauce may be poured over the meat. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1-1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

864. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466. 

_Mode_. --Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficientlythick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head, and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in themeat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let itsimmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 THE CALF IN AMERICA. --In America, the calf is left with the mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1 quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat, and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience. 

CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

865. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 applessliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter;then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of apale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples, and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add thelemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may beornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily onthe top. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d. _Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree). 

866. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 lbs. Of the prime part of the leg of veal, egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt andpopper to taste, a small piece of butter. 

[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS. ]

_Mode_. --Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch inthickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with acutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush themover with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixedminced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbsdown. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and becareful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but notdry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes ata good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour:by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in alittle flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, thenpour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepperand salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over thecutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and afew forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to thisdish. 

_Time_. --For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if verythick, allow more time. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown;the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving. 

BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree). 

867. INGREDIENTS. --Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powderover them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of anegg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and, afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clearfire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in thedish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, madeby recipe No. 453, in the middle. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB. --When the restoration of Charles II. Took the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a large section of society wedded to the former state of things. The elders of this party retired from public sight, where, unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the 30th of January in each year, --the anniversary of Charles's death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves' heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell; and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin, marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early part of this century it was customary for men of republican politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January. 

VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree). 

868. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 lbs. Of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, alittle grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, andbrush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs andminced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and foldeach cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them totable with melted butter or a good gravy. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE. 

(_Excellent_. )

869. INGREDIENTS. --2 to 3 lbs. Of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 bladesof pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, afew new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmingsinto a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them anice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice, herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stewgently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat, take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce andketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put themwith the veal, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when theseare omitted. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

870. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-mincedlemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroomketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather largerthan a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown inbutter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring itin by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion andmace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravywith lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; giveone boil, and serve. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

871. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful ofgrated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, alittle butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hackthem with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, andsalt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy inthe pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pourit over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon, rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not athand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk. 

_Time_. --About 5 or 7 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from May to October. 

 COOKING COLLOPS. --Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his "Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character, " a number of famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good collops?"

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL. 

872. INGREDIENTS. --Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter. 

_Mode_. --Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take outthe bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap anice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, asthere should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a minceif required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge wellwith flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, andbaste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer thefire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of arich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace bya silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and servewith either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cutlemon to table with roast veal. 

[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL. ]

_Time_. --A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs. , about 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

STEWED FILLET OF VEAL. 

873. INGREDIENTS. --A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickeningof butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass ofsherry. 

_Mode_. --If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle tostew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies. Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll andskewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan toprevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weakstock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly vealis stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it withlemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour itover the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silverone, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon. 

_Time_. --A. Fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs. , 3 hours' very gentlestewing. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

THE GOLDEN CALF. --We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in thelengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people tomake them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using hisdelegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, andappease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and, telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out oftheir willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitudefell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold, or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To supposethe former, --knowing the size of the image made from such triflingarticles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled theEgyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequencethan the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought awaymore from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they weredeeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one, out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall, was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptiantrinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holybull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of thesun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality, industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing sofamiliar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under awell-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of thosevirtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hoseais full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes tothe custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree). 

874. INGREDIENTS. --A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3lbs. ), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107. 

[Illustration: FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. ]

_Mode_. --The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or itwill not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and notthready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at onestroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeauwith an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knifemake two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of theseasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a redcolour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with theherbs and spices, in the _middle_ of a stewpan, with a few slices ofbacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre forthe veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle overit a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon, &c. , without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; thenput it over a slow and equal fire, and let it _simmer very_ gently forabout 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste itfrequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it intoa brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break whenit was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat fromthe liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze thefricandeau, and serve with a purée of whatever vegetable happens to bein season--spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (_More economical_. )

875. INGREDIENTS. --The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs. ), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades ofmace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fatbacon. 

_Mode_. --Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with asharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a littlewater, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stewabout 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in thepreceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch thefricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel, spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish. 

_Time_. --3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole;consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. Thebest end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well. 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on). 

876. INGREDIENTS. --Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 largebunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3grains of cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the sideof the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, andwith the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come offeasily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soakfor an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a fewminutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, intowhich lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually toboil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw itup. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done, boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, andadd a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c. , intoabout 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice andcayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brainsround it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a littleminced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen ofparsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as anaccompaniment. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. To 7s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin). 

877. INGREDIENTS. --Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfulsof melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt totaste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD. ]

[Illustration: HALF A CALF'S HEAD. ]

_Mode_. --After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brainsremoved, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also intowarm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the headinto a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when itboils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises, and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them, and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, andlemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue, and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready someparsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send totable in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, areindispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped withhard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Béchamel or white sauce. 

_Time_. --From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours. 

_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. To 5s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: itmakes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c. Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being amore convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the samemanner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe. 

HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery). 

878. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart ofthe liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and whitepepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmingsinto a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head wasboiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip oflemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a cleanstewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouringof sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; seasonwith pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it_gradually_ warm through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of baconrolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree). 

879. INGREDIENTS. --About 2 lbs. Of the prime part of the leg of veal, afew slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and breadcrumbs, gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay oneach a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all alittle cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and frythem a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, andshaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire;put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over thecollops. 

_Time_. --From 10 to 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

880. INGREDIENTS. --A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper andsalt to taste, 1/4 pint water. 

_Mode_. --Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it intoslices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of agood colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them inthe frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver. 

_Time_. --According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. 

881. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 lbs. Of liver, bacon, pepper and salt totaste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of baconas there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dishbefore the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon, after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a verylittle flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, andwhen done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each. Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in alittle flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour itin the _middle_ of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cutlemon, or forcemeat balls. 

_Time_. --According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree). 

882. INGREDIENTS. --A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs ofparsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, browngravy. 

_Mode_. --Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau;put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in thispickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with thevinegar, &c. ; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or saucepiquante, and send it to table very hot. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has beenadded a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It shouldbe larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire. Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it. 

FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

883. INGREDIENTS. --A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day willanswer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leavinga good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there shouldbe any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely themeat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat toflavour, and stir to it sufficient Béchamel to make it of a properconsistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care tobaste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place wherethe meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop alittle clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for1/4 hour to brown, and pour Béchamel round the sides of the dish. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1-1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 

884. INGREDIENTS. --Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savouryherbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a fewyoung carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomatosauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, seasonwith pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a littlebutter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (whichshould be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, andcarrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer verygently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices ofmeat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butterrolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put backthe meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When inseason, a few green peas, _boiled separately_, and added to this dish atthe moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. To 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. 

STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE. 

885. INGREDIENTS. --Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. Of rice. 

[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL. ]

_Mode_. --Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, thatit may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, ascold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break theshank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan withsufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put inthe salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmeredgently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew thewhole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour overit the rice, &c. , and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley andbutter to table with it. 

_Time_. --A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs. , 3 hours' gentle stewing. 

_Average cost_, 5d. To 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be foundgood; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent totable smothered in parsley and butter. 

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL. ]

886. INGREDIENTS. --Veal; melted butter. 

_Mode_. --Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makesthe joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to abright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for atime to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time beforeserving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire anice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some meltedbutter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of itscontents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slicesof lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon, ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek. 

_Time_. --A large loin, 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9-1/2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when theveal is dished. 

LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

887. INGREDIENTS. --Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, rather more than 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce. 

_Mode_. --A loin of veal which has come from table with very little takenoff, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside, mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficientBéchamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in butteredpaper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish themince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of theBéchamel. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube. 

888. INGREDIENTS. --The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, afew slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6green onions. 

_Mode_. --Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone;fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it ina stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a fewslices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock orwater; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions;reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with whichglaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

MINCED VEAL, with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery). 

(_Very Good_. )

889. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamelsauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls. 

_Mode_. --Cut--but do not _chop_--a few slices of cold roast veal asfinely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb. , weighedafter being minced. Make the above proportion of Béchamel, by recipe No. 367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole graduallywarm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnishwith forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread. 

_Time_. --To simmer 1 minute. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

MINCED VEAL. 

(_More Economical_. )

890. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of mincedlemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter andflour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream ormilk. 

_Mode_. --Take about 1 lb. Of veal, and should there be any bones, dredgethem with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, anda few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onioncut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmerthese well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub alittle flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on thefire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by _cutting_, and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed throughgradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the pointof boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread andslices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added. If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little veryfinely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy. 

_Time_. --1 hour to make the gravy. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER. --A singular symbolical ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine power, or what was called the _Elohim_, --the Almighty intelligence that brought them out of Egypt, --was looked upon much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when, the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time, and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance, took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv. 15-17. 

MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI. 

(_A pretty side or corner dish_. )

891. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. Of ham, 1tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful ofgrated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. Of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggsto bind, a small piece of butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off thebrown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion ofham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Seasonhighly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, andmix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bindthe mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil themacaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some ofthe macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked;mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, puta plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it outcarefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, themeat. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately ina little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inchin thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white andred stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in theforegoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould. 

MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

892. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1egg. 

_Mode_. --Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin andoutside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding thelemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredientsare thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind themixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn itout of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. Asheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

BRAISED NECK OF VEAL. 

893. INGREDIENTS. --The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs. ), bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and gratednutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is notobtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter andflour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace. 

_Mode_. --Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpanwith a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery;and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, oruntil it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over thefire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the vealin this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain tillof a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan asmuch gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, poundedmace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, andserve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 BIRTH OF CALVES. --The cow seldom produces more than a single calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French newspaper, however, --the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences, "--gave a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the first birth, all were suckled by the mother. 

ROAST NECK OF VEAL. 

894. INGREDIENTS. --Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls. 

_Mode_. --Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it withflour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dishit, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with friedforcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiledor stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley andbutter. 

_Time_. --About 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --4 or 5 lbs. For 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery). 

895. INGREDIENTS. --A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thinslices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfulsof cream, puff-crust. 

_Mode_. --Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thinslices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll themtightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream, cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie bevery large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3inches in length, and about 3 inches round. 

_Time_. --Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery). 

896. INGREDIENTS. --Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 eggboiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste. 

_Mode_. --Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham totwo-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning ofpounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravyand cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it intoround or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch theedges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be alsobaked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with theyolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety, oysters may be substituted for the ham. 

_Time_. --15 minutes to fry the patties. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL PIE. 

897. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean baconor ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savouryherbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them withpepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savouryherbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed atthe top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressedbacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a littlewater, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brushit over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven forabout 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done byremoving the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added. 

_Time_. --About 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 A VERY VEAL DINNER. --At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his guests, volunteered an explanation. --"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf; when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the tither. "

VEAL AND HAM PIE. 

898. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. Of boiled ham, 2tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of gratednutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip oflemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint ofwater, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust. 

_Mode_. --Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of themat the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs, spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices;cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in thismanner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at thetop. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it overwith the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out ofthe oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint ofstrong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, itmay cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding afew mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very goodwithout any of the last-named additions. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. _Averagecost_, 3s. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from March toOctober. 

POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast). 

899. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of veal allow 1/4 lb. Of ham, cayenneand pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. Of fresh butter; clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, andpound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter inthe above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press itinto potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a coolplace, it will remain good some days. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 NAMES OF CALVES, &c. --During the time the young male calf is suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked, that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms, may exist in different districts. 

RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

900. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pintof gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeatballs. 

_Mode_. --Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat intonice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. Of butter, and frya light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this), thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour;season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, andlemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeatballs and fried rashers of bacon. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

_Note_. --The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such aspeas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two ofgreen gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a littlewith the meat, and then stewed in the gravy. 

VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery). 

901. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of hamor bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of mincedsavoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add theparsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg;form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish thedish with fried parsley. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

902. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and breadcrumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417. 

_Mode_. --Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rubthem over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece ofveal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeatthinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and frythem a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed. 

903. INGREDIENTS. --A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, afaggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening ofbutter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from theblade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not topierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out. Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made byrecipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into astew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour injust sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew _very gently_ forabout 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done bythrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it issufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter andflour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrotsmay be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when inseason, green peas should always be served with this dish. 

_Time_. --5 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 THE FATTENING OF CALVES. --The fattening of calves for the market is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this, they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to exclude the light, --at all events to a great degree, and to put within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often attain a very large size; viz. , 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf, originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one cow is sufficient, --indeed half that quantity is enough for the first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food. Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6 weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding one to a useless degree of corpulency. 

VEAL SAUSAGES. 

904. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to everylb. Of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper totaste. 

_Mode_. --Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. Allow theabove proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepperand salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and frya nice brown. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes. 

905. INGREDIENTS. --3 or 4 lbs. Of the loin or neck of veal, 15 youngcarrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, abunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls ofmushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpanwith the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour overit sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours. Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fatfrom the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, andmushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of greenpeas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, andserve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat, when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead ofbeing roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be foundextremely savoury and good. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August. 

BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree). 

906. INGREDIENTS. --3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3slices of toast, brown gravy. 

[Illustration: SWEETBREADS. ]

_Mode_. --Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water todraw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain forrather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allowthem to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take themup, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dipthem in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them alittle oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heatedoven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast;place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, agood brown gravy. 

_Time_. --To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. To 5s. _Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season from May to August. 

FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree). 

907. INGREDIENTS. --3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maîtred'hôtel sauce No. 466. 

_Mode_. --Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil themfor 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, seasonwith pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the aboveproportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be inabout 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maître d'hôtel sauce, made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cutlemon. 

_Time_. --To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. To 5s. , according to the season. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season from May to August. 

_Note_. --The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices ofsweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may besubstituted for the _maitre d'hôtel_ sauce. This is a very simple methodof dressing them. 

STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree). 

908. INGREDIENTS. --3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper andsalt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil themfor 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a fewminutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gentlyfor rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with alittle butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients, allow the sauce to get quite _hot_, but _not boil_, and pour it over thesweetbreads. 

_Time_. --To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather morethan 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 5s. , according to the season. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season from May to August. 

_Note_. --A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with thesweetbreads, will be found an improvement. 

 SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL. --Veal, like all other meats, has its season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be considered, the colour being especially of the utmost consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the months of plenty. 

STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree). 

909. INGREDIENTS. --The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel. 

_Mode_. --The _tendrons_ or gristles, which are found round the front ofa breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entrée, and whenwell dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles fromthe bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint forroasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No. 107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, andlemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should bestewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drainthem, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze themeat. Dish the _tendrons_ in a circle, with croûtons fried of a nicecolour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a purée of greenpeas or tomatoes, in the middle. 

_Time_. --4 hours. _Sufficient_ for one entrée. 

_Seasonable_. --With peas, from June to August. 

 COW-POX, OR VARIOLA. --It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle, escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with. 

TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree). 

910. INGREDIENTS. --The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls ofchopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. 

_Mode_. --After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew themfor 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, liftthem out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them betweentwo dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them intoslices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry apale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, thesherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the _pointof boiling_, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in themiddle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways, --with sauce àl'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a purée, they should always be glazed. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_. --Usually bought with breast ofveal. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree). 

911. INGREDIENTS. --Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiledone; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass ofsherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles orforcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croûtons. 

_Mode_. --Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entrée, and ifthere are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it willanswer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender, remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock intoa stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry themushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boilthis quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of thehard-boiled eggs _whole_, the whites cut in small pieces, and thegherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No. 422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the otheringredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, _without boiling_. Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish aspossible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish andcroûtons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be servedin a tureen. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

 A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL. --A great authority in his native Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing, is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _à la poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c. ; _les cervelles_, served in the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en fricandeau_, _piqués en fin_, --all these offer most satisfactory entrées, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites. We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver, or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with calf's liver _à la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _à la poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the _fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_, and the _rate_), although not a very recherché dish, lends itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even awaken our appetite. "--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer. 

VEAL CARVING. 

BREAST OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL. ]

912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of afore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breastof veal consists of two parts, --the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knifein the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, therib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and thebrisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. Thecarver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for thebrisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, asit often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive apiece. 

CALF'S HEAD. 

[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD. ]

913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it isput before a carver for the first time; there is not much realdifficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentivelyexamined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know itsbumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite downto the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with eachof these should be helped a piece of what is called the throatsweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the fleshround, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those atthe table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbonebeing removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate, which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separatedish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest shouldbe asked to take some of these. 

FILLET OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL. ]

914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef. Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; andthe only point to be careful about is, that the veal be _evenly_ carved. Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a smallportion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom thehost wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the deliciousbrown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished. 

KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL. ]

915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficientlyindicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carvingthis dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of theknuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2. 

LOIN OF VEAL. 

[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL. ]

916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of aloin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcherbe negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there isnothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than tobe obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact placewhere it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When thejointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carryingthe knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest shouldbe given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, andare considered great delicacies. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XX. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS. 

 "Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean, Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace; In plumage delicate and beautiful; Thick without burthen, close as fishes' scales, Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze. "

_The Pelican Island_. 

917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are founded principally on their habits oflife, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especiallytheir bills, bear to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, there are fiveorders, each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of theglobe; so that the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water, has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants. These are respectivelydesignated as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS;and, in contemplating their variety, lightness, beauty, and wonderfuladaptation to the regions they severally inhabit, and the functions theyare destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation, our hearts arelifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity, power, and wisdomof HIM who has, in producing them, so strikingly "manifested Hishandiwork. " Not only these, however, but all classes of animals, havetheir peculiar ends to fulfil; and, in order that this may beeffectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as willenable them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that areformed to tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous;and, whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or arepermitted to range the forest or the field, they still retain, in a highdegree, the energies with which they were originally endowed. Birds, onthe contrary, are generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly, wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air, andthus elude the force which, by nature, they are unable to resist. Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre ofthe earth, birds, when raised in the atmosphere, glide through it withthe greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are in theirnatural element, and can vary their course with the greatestpromptitude--can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and canlight on any spot with the most perfect exactness, and without theslightest injury to themselves. 

918. THE MECHANISM WHICH ENABLES BIRDS to wing their course through theair, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered withfeathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with whichquadrupeds are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlapeach other, like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. Theyare also arranged from the fore-part backwards; by which the animals areenabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air. Theirbones are tubular or hollow, and extremely light compared with those ofterrestrial animals. This greatly facilitates their rising from theearth, whilst their heads, being comparatively small, their bills shapedlike a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below, and round above, --allthese present a union of conditions, favourable, in the last degree, tocutting their way through the aërial element to which they areconsidered as more peculiarly to belong. With all these conditions, however, birds could not fly without wings. These, therefore, are theinstruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion, and areconstructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion whenstruck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slighthollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost twoplanes. In order that the downward action may be accomplished to thenecessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been madeexceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they havebeen estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body. Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes aleap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with greatforce. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, beingturned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of theforce which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of thebird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The strokebeing completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being contracted andhaving their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, theresistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makes asecond stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves itforward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps takenin the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right orthe left, it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it tothe proper side. In the motions of the animal, too, the tail takes aprominent part, and acts like the rudder of a ship, except that, insteadof sideways, it moves upwards and downwards. If the bird wishes to rise, it raises its tail; and if to fall, it depresses it; and, whilst in ahorizontal position, it keeps it steady. There are few who have notobserved a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flightwithout any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by thebird having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings beingparallel to the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from theatmosphere. If it begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward bymeans of its tail, till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, whenit must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings. On alighting, abird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, as a ship, intacking round, backs her sails, in order that they may meet with all theresistance possible. 

919. IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE EYES of birds, there is a peculiaritynecessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of theirlives among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence oftheir eyes from external injuries, as well as from the effects of thelight, when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun, with anictating or winking membrane, which can, at pleasure, be drawn over thewhole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor whollypellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that theeagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. "In birds, " says a writeron this subject, "we find that the sight is much more piercing, extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye ismuch larger in proportion to the bulk of the head, than in any of these. This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a correspondingutility: it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence. Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they wouldbe in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking againstvarious objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead ofbeing an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrainedby the danger resulting from it. Indeed we may consider the velocitywith which an animal moves, as a sure indication of the perfection ofits vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatlylimited; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a larksitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a manor a dog could perceive it. "

920. AMONGST THE MANY PECULIARITIES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BIRDS, notthe least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. Thisis effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body, and adhere to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion, force the air through the true lungs, which are very small, and placedin the uppermost part of the chest, and closely braced down to the backand ribs. The lungs, which are never expanded by air, are destined tothe sole purpose of oxidizing the blood. In the experiments made by Mr. John Hunter, to discover the use of this general diffusion of airthrough the bodies of birds, he found that it prevents their respirationfrom being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motionthrough a resisting medium. It is well known that, in proportion tocelerity of motion, the air becomes resistive; and were it possible fora man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not providedwith an internal construction similar to that of birds, the resistanceof the air would soon suffocate him. 

921. BIRDS ARE DISTRIBUTED OVER EVERY PART OF THE GLOBE, being found inthe coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species arerestricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed. At certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, andmigrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes oflife, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds ofBritain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from theisland before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the morecongenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. The causesassigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are, either a deficiency offood, or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishmentof their young. Their migrations are generally performed in largecompanies, and, in the day, they follow a leader, which is occasionallychanged. During the night, many of the tribes send forth a continualcry, to keep themselves together; although one would think that thenoise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for thatpurpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed threethousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in theScriptures, that "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and broughtquails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day'sjourney round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth. "

922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS were not a recommendation to their beinguniversally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song wouldendear them to mankind. It appears, however, from accurate observationsfounded upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds ofbirds are altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any morethan language is to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has beencompared to the endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do notseem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song; but, as thebird grows older and becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to beaiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song. Whilst thescholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes, when he is once sure ofa passage, he usually raises his tone, but drops it again when he findshimself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken. "Manywell-authenticated facts, " says an ingenious writer, "seem decisively toprove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like mankind, thelanguage of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth, will be their language in after-life. " It would appear, however, somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, they adhere so steadily tothe song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others areto be heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paidby the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only, generally disregarding the notes of all the rest. Persons; however, whohave an accurate ear, and who have given their attention to the songs ofbirds, can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed withthose of another species; but this is in general so trifling, that itcan hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincialdialects. 

923. IN REFERENCE TO THE FOOD OF BIRDS, we find that it varies, as itdoes in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogethercarnivorous; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist onfish; others, again, on insects and worms; and others on grain andfruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivoroustribes, in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion, would, were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded onexperiment, appear to exceed all credibility. Tin tubes, full of grain, have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in twenty-four hourshave been found broken, compressed, and distorted into every shape. Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges, have beenfixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to aturkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight hours. After that timethe stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. Thetwelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remainedperfectly sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that thestones, so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, arehighly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grainand other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones, themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful actionof the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and, no doubt, contribute verygreatly to the health, as well as to the nourishment of the animals. 

924. ALL BIRDS BEING OVIPAROUS, the eggs which they produce after theprocess of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, inthe various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as inpoint of number. They contain the elements of the future young, for theperfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placedat the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposedthat from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confinedair, its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor, and, at the sametime, its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction. By thismeans, pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg, which, in some inscrutable way, gradually promote the formation andgrowth of the young, till the time comes for its escaping from theshell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation, for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Réaumur, the Frenchnaturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its poreswith a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet. 

925. BIRDS HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have some place to putthem; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishingart. As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill, niceness, and propriety, that would seem even to mock the imitativetalents of man, however greatly these are marked by his own highintelligence and ingenuity. 

 "Each circumstance Most artfully contrived to favour warmth. Here read the reason of the vaulted roof; How Providence compensates, ever kind, The enormous disproportion that subsists Between the mother and the numerous brood Which her small bulk must quicken into life. "

In building their nests, the male and female generally assist eachother, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear asgreat a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches;so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are insearch of it. This art of nidification is one of the most wonderfulcontrivances which the wide field of Nature can show, and which, ofitself, ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief, thatthey and every other part of the creation, are constantly under theprotecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign dispensationsseem as exhaustless as they are unlimited. 

[Illustration]

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entree). 

926. INGREDIENTS. --2 chickens; seasoning to taste of salt, white pepper, and cayenne; 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread crumbs, clarifiedbutter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls ofmushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and flour, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens; cut the meatinto neat pieces after having skinned it, and season the cutlets withpepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. Put the bones, trimmings, &c. , into a stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots, onions, andlemon-peel in the above proportion; stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, andstrain the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and1 egg well beaten; stir it over the fire, and bring it to thesimmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. In the mean time, egg andbread-crumb the cutlets, and give them a few drops of clarified butter;fry them a delicate brown, occasionally turning them; arrange thempyramidically on the dish, and pour over them the sauce. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the cutlets. _Average cost_, 2s. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

 FOWLS AS FOOD. --Brillat Savarin, pre-eminent in gastronomic taste, says that he believes the whole gallinaceous family was made to enrich our larders and furnish our tables; for, from the quail to the turkey, he avers their flesh is a light aliment, full of flavour, and fitted equally well for the invalid as for the man of robust health. The fine flavour, however, which Nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of poultry, man has not been satisfied with, and has used many means--such as keeping them in solitude and darkness, and forcing them to eat--to give them an unnatural state of fatness or fat. This fat, thus artificially produced, is doubtless delicious, and the taste and succulence of the boiled and roasted bird draw forth the praise of the guests around the table. Well-fattened and tender, a fowl is to the cook what the canvas is to the painter; for do we not see it served boiled, roasted, fried, fricasseed, hashed, hot, cold, whole, dismembered, boned, broiled, stuffed, on dishes, and in pies, --always handy and ever acceptable?

 THE COMMON OR DOMESTIC FOWL. --From time immemorial, the common or domestic fowl has been domesticated in England, and is supposed to be originally the offspring of some wild species which abound in the forests of India. It is divided into a variety of breeds, but the most esteemed are, the Poland or Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the Game Fowl, and the Malay or Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, is one of the most delicate of the varieties; and at Dorking, in Surrey, the breed is brought to great perfection. Till they are four months old, the term chicken is applied to the young female; after that age they are called pullets, till they begin to lay, when they are called hens. The English counties most productive in poultry are Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk, Herts, Devon, and Somerset. 

FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

927. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, friedbread, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel; salt, cayenne, and mace totaste. For sauce, --1 oz. Of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few slices ofcarrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 blade ofpounded mace, 6 peppercorns, 1/4 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible; take acorresponding number of sippets about the same size, all cut one shape;fry them a pale brown, put them before the fire, then dip the cutletsinto clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, cover with breadcrumbs seasoned in the above proportion, with lemon-peel, mace, salt, and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on one of thesippets, pile them high in the dish, and serve with the following sauce, which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put the butter into astewpan, add the shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; fry for10 minutes or rather longer; pour in 1/2 pint of good gravy, made of thechicken bones, stew gently for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to make the gravy. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the chicken, 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from April to July. 

 EGGS FOR HATCHING. --Eggs intended for hatching should be removed as soon as laid, and placed in bran in a dry, cool place. Choose those that are near of a size; and, as a rule, avoid those that are equally thick at both ends, --such, probably, contain a double yolk, and will come to no good. Eggs intended for hatching should never be stored longer than a month, as much less the better. Nine eggs may be placed under a Bantam hen, and as many as fifteen under a Dorking. The odd number is considered preferable, as more easily packed. It will be as well to mark the eggs you give the hen to sit on, so that you may know if she lays any more: if she does, you must remove them; for, if hatched at all, they would be too late for the brood. If during incubation an egg should be broken, remove it, and take out the remainder, and cleanse them in luke-warm water, or it is probable the sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg will make the others cling to the hen's feathers; and they, too, may be fractured. 

 HENS SITTING. --Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting; they will make a great fuss, and keep pining for the nest, and, when they are permitted to take to it, they will sit just long enough to addle the eggs, and then they're off again. The safest way to guard against such annoyance, is to supply the hen with some hard-boiled eggs; if she sits on them a reasonable time, and seems steadily inclined, like a good matron, you may then give her proper eggs, and let her set about the business in earnest. 

CHICKEN OR FOWL PATTIES. 

928. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast chicken or fowl; to every1/4 lb. Of meat allow 2 oz. Of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel;cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1oz. Of butter rolled in flour; puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl, afterremoving all the skin; weigh it, and to every 1/4 lb. Of meat allow theabove proportion of minced ham. Put these into a stewpan with theremaining ingredients, stir over the fire for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, taking care that the mixture does not burn. Roll out some puff pasteabout 1/4 inch in thickness; line the patty-pans with this, put uponeach a small piece of bread, and cover with another layer of paste;brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a brisk oven for about1/4 hour. When done, cut a round piece out of the top, and, with a smallspoon, take out the bread (be particular in not breaking the outsideborder of the crust), and fill the patties with the mixture. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to prepare the meat; not quite 1/4 hour to bake thecrust. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 HATCHING. --Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to break away from its prison; for the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners' clue, when the poor chick is in a terrible fix. An able writer says, "Assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely, and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg, and a section of about one-third of the length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell. Between the body of the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid, the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When this happens, the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain confined, and must perish, if not released. "

 The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in releasing themselves from the shell, is to take the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers. The chick, then, being returned to the nest, will extricate itself, --a mode generally to be observed, since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal. Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary; and separating with the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors may be useful, and when there is much resistance, as also apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small pieces. The signs of a need of assistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped, and the cluck discontinuing its efforts for five of six hours. Weakness from cold may disable the chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell, which must then be artificially performed with a circular fracture, such as is made by the bird itself. 

CHICKEN OR FOWL PIE. 

929. INGREDIENTS. --2 small fowls or 1 large one, white pepper and saltto taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of poundedmace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2pint of water, puff crust. 

_Mode_. --Skin and cut up the fowls into joints, and put the neck, leg, and backbones in a stewpan, with a little water, an onion, a bunch ofsavoury herbs, and a blade of mace; let these stew for about an hour, and, when done, strain off the liquor: this is for gravy. Put a layer offowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of ham, then one offorcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings; between the layers put aseasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Proceed in thismanner until the dish is full, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water;border the edge of the dish with puff crust, put on the cover, ornamentthe top, and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk of an egg. Bake from1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour, should the pie be very large, and, when done, pourin, at the top, the gravy made from the bones. If to be eaten cold, andwished particularly nice, the joints of the fowls should be boned, andplaced in the dish with alternate layers of forcemeat; sausage-meat mayalso be substituted for the forcemeat, and is now very much used. Whenthe chickens are boned, and mixed with sausage-meat, the pie will takeabout 2 hours to bake. It should be covered with a piece of paper whenabout half-done, to prevent the paste from being dried up or scorched. 

_Time_. --For a pie with unboned meat, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; with bonedmeat and sausage or forcemeat, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, with 2 fowls, 6s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE YOUNG CHICKS. --The chicks that are hatched first should be taken from underneath the hen, lest she might think her task at an end, and leave the remaining eggs to spoil. As soon as the young birds are taken from the mother, they must be placed in a basket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay, and stood in the sunlight if it be summer time, or by the fire if the weather be cold. It is a common practice to cram young chicks with food as soon as they are born. This is quite unnecessary. They will, so long as they are kept warm, come to no harm if they take no food for twenty-four hours following their birth. Should the whole of the brood not be hatched by that time, those that are born may be fed with bread soaked in milk, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. 

POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish). 

930. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast chicken; to every lb. Ofmeat allow 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/4 small nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl; when it isfreed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and, to every lb. Of meat, allowthe above proportion of butter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meatinto small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in thespices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smoothpaste. Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover it with clarifiedbutter, about 1/4 inch in thickness, and, if to be kept for some time, tie over a bladder: 2 or 3 slices of ham, minced and pounded with theabove ingredients, will be found an improvement. It should be kept in adry place. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS. --When all the chicks are hatched, they should be placed along with the mother under a coop in a warm dry spot. If two hens happen to have their broods at the same time, their respective chicks should be carefully kept separate; as, if they get mixed, and so go under the wrong coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy those who have mistaken their dwelling. After being kept snug beneath the coop for a week (the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall), the chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest part of the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg, instead of which grits or boiled barley should be given; in 8 or 10 days their stomachs will be strong enough to receive bruised barley, and at the end of 3 weeks, if your chicks be healthy, they will be able to take care of themselves. It will be well, however, to keep your eye on them a week or so longer, as the elder chickens may drive them from their food. Great care should be taken that the very young chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, as this is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease. While under the coop with their mother, a shallow pan or plate of water should be supplied to the chicks, as in a deeper vessel they are liable to drench themselves and take cold, or possibly to get drowned. 

CHICKEN OR FOWL SALAD. 

931. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled chicken, 2lettuces, a little endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beetroot, salad-dressing No. 506. 

_Mode_. --Trim neatly the remains of the chicken; wash, dry, and slicethe lettuces, and place in the middle of a dish; put the pieces of fowlon the top, and pour the salad-dressing over them. Garnish the edge ofthe salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, sliced cucumber, andboiled beetroot cut in slices. Instead of cutting the eggs in rings, theyolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve, and the whites chopped veryfinely, and arranged on the salad in small bunches, yellow and whitealternately. This should not be made long before it is wanted for table. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS. --It has been the opinion of the medical faculty of all ages and all countries, that the flesh of the young chicken is the must delicate and easy to digest of all animal food. It is less alkalescent than the flesh of any other animal, and its entire freedom from any irritating quality renders it a fit dish for the ailing, or those whose stomachs are naturally weak. In no animal, however, does age work such a change, in regard to the quality of its flesh, as it does in domestic fowls. In their infancy, cocks and hens are equally tender and toothsome; but as time overtakes them it is the cock whose flesh toughens first. A year-old cock, indeed, is fit for little else than to be converted into soup, while a hen at the same age, although sufficiently substantial, is not callous to the insinuations of a carving-knife. As regards capons, however, the rule respecting age does not hold good. There is scarcely to be found a more delicious animal than a well-fed, well-dressed capon. Age does not dry up his juices; indeed, like wine, he seems but to mellow. At three years old, even, he is as tender as a chick, with the additional advantage of his proper chicken flavour being fully developed. The above remarks, however, concerning the capon, only apply to such as are _naturally_ fed, and not crammed. The latter process may produce a handsome-looking bird, and it may weigh enough to satisfy the whim or avarice of its stuffer; but, when before the fire, it will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected, and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears. You will never find heart enough to place such a grief-worn guest at the head of your table. It should be borne in mind as a rule, that small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the contrary sort in delicacy of colour, flavour, and fineness of flesh. 

HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Cookery). 

932. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast duck, rather more than 1pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. Of butter, thickening ofbutter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of mincedlemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 glass of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Cut the duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings into astewpan; slice and fry the onion in a little butter; add these to thetrimmings, pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water, and stewgently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and flour, season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; boil itup and skim well; lay in the pieces of duck, and let them get thoroughlyhot through by the side of the fire, but do not allow them to boil: theyshould soak in the gravy for about 1/2 hour. Garnish with sippets oftoasted bread. The hash may be made richer by using a stronger and morehighly-flavoured gravy; a little spice or pounded mace may also beadded, when their flavour is liked. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from May to August. 

 THE DUCK. --This bird belongs to the order of _Natatores_, or Swimmers; the most familiar tribes of which are ducks, swans, geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guillemots, gulls, and terns. They mostly live in the water, feeding on fish, worms, and aquatic plants. They are generally polygamous, and make their nests among reeds, or in moist places. The flesh of many of the species is eatable, but that of some is extremely rank and oily. The duck is a native of Britain, but is found on the margins of most of the European lakes. It is excessively greedy, and by no means a nice feeder. It requires a mixture of vegetable and animal food; but aquatic insects, corn, and vegetables, are its proper food. Its flesh, however, is savoury, being not so gross as that of the goose, and of easier digestion. In the green-pea season it is usually found on an English table; but, according to Ude, "November is its proper season, when it is plump and fat. "

TO RAGOUT A DUCK WHOLE. 

933. INGREDIENTS. --1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good beefgravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --After having emptied and singed the duck, season it inside withpepper and salt, and truss it. Roast it before a clear fire for about 20minutes, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into a stewpanwith sufficient well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry theonions, and add these, with the sage-leaves and lemon thyme, both ofwhich should be finely minced, to the stock. Simmer gently until theduck is tender; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with a little butterand flour; boil it up, pour over the duck, and serve. When in season, about, 1-1/2 pint of young green peas, boiled separately, and put in theragoût, very much improve this dish. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it. 

_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. To 2s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February; ducklings from April to August. 

[Illustration: BUENOS AYRES DUCKS. ]

 THE BUENOS AYRES DUCK. --The Buenos Ayres duck is of East-Indian birth, and is chiefly valuable as an ornament; for we suppose one would as soon think of picking a Chinese teal for luncheon, or a gold fish for breakfast, as to consign the handsome Buenos Ayres to the spit. The prevailing colour of this bird is black, with a metallic lustre, and a gleaming of blue steel about its breast and wings. 

 VARIETIES OF DUCKS. --Naturalists count nearly a hundred different species of ducks; and there is no doubt that the intending keeper of these harmless and profitable birds may easily take his choice from amongst twenty different sorts. There is, however, so little difference in the various members of the family, either as regards hardiness, laying, or hatching, that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his taste without danger of making a bad bargain. In connection with their value for table, light-coloured ducks are always of milder flavour than those that are dark-coloured, the white Aylesbury's being general favourites. Ducks reared exclusively on vegetable diet will have a whiter and more delicate flesh than those allowed to feed on animal offal; while the flesh of birds fattened on the latter food, will be firmer than that of those which have only partaken of food of a vegetable nature. 

ROAST DUCKS. 

934. INGREDIENTS. --A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing No. 504; alittle flour. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose ducks with plump bellies, and withthick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet on, whichshould be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned up close tothe legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg, after havingdrawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump up the breast, passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the heads and necks, and the pinions at the first joint; bring these close to the sides, twist the feet round, and truss them at the back of the bird. After theduck is stuffed, both ends should be secured with string, so as to keepin the seasoning. 

[Illustration: ROAST DUCK. ]

_Mode_. --To insure ducks being tender, never dress them the same daythey are killed; and if the weather permits, they should hang a day ortwo. Make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck, andleave the other unseasoned, as the flavour is not liked by everybody. Put them down to a brisk clear fire, and keep them well basted the wholeof the time they are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge themlightly with flour, to make them froth and look plump; and when thesteam draws towards the fire, send them to table hot and quickly, with agood brown gravy poured _round_, but not _over_ the ducks, and a littleof the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should invariablyaccompany this dish. 

_Time_. --Full-grown ducks from 3/4 to 1 hour; ducklings from 25 to 35minutes. 

_Average cost_, from 2s. 3d. To 2s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --A. Couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November toFebruary. 

_Note_. --Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, andserved with the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, serveapple sauce. 

[Illustration: ROUEN DUCKS. ]

 THE ROUEN DUCK. --The Rouen, or Rhone duck, is a large and handsome variety, of French extraction. The plumage of the Rouen duck is somewhat sombre; its flesh is also much darker, and, though of higher flavour, not near so delicate as that of our own Aylesbury. It is with this latter breed that the Rouen duck is generally mated; and the result is said to be increase of size and strength. In Normandy and Brittany these ducks, as well as other sorts, greatly abound; and the "duck-liver _pâtés_" are there almost as popular as the _pâté de foie gras_ of Strasburg. In order to bring the livers of the wretched duck to the fashionable and unnatural size, the same diabolical cruelty is resorted to as in the case of the Strasburg goose. The poor birds are _nailed_ by the feet to a board placed close to a fire, and, in that position, plentifully supplied with food and water. In a few days, the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow, while the liver has grown monstrously. We would rather abstain from the acquaintance of a man who ate _pâté de foie gras_, knowing its component parts. 

 DUCK'S EGGS. --The ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a tendency to curve upwards, are better layers than those whose beaks do not thus point, is, we need hardly say, simply absurd: all ducks are good layers, if they are carefully fed and tended. Ducks generally lay at night, or early in the morning. While they are in perfect health, they will do this; and one of the surest signs of indisposition, among birds of this class, is irregularity in laying. The eggs laid will approach nearly the colour of the layer, --light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs; dark-coloured birds laying the largest eggs. One time of day the notion was prevalent that a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own; and although this is not true, it will be, nevertheless, as well to match the duck's own eggs as closely as possible; for we have known instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and destroyed eggs differing from her own in size and colour. 

 DUCKS. --The Mallard, or Wild Duck, from which is derived the domestic species, is prevalent throughout Europe, Asia, and America. The mallard's most remarkable characteristic is one which sets at defiance the speculations of the most profound ornithologist. The female bird is extremely plain, but the male's plumage is a splendour of greens and browns, and browns and blues. In the spring, however, the plumage of the male begins to fade, and in two months, every vestige of his finery has departed, and he is not to be distinguished from his soberly-garbed wife. Then the greens, and the blues, and the browns begin to bud out again, and by October he is once more a gorgeous drake. It is to be regretted that domestication has seriously deteriorated the moral character of the duck. In a wild state, he is a faithful husband, desiring but one wife, and devoting himself to her; but no sooner is he domesticated than he becomes polygamous, and makes nothing of owning ten or a dozen wives at a time. As regards the females, they are much more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild state than a tame. Should a tame duck's duckling get into mortal trouble, its mother will just signify her sorrow by an extra "quack, " or so, and a flapping of her wings; but touch a wild duck's little one if you dare! she will buffet you with her broad wings, and dash boldly at your face with her stout beak. If you search for her nest amongst the long grass, she will try no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it, her favourite _ruse_ being to pretend lameness, to delude you into the notion that you have only to pursue _her_ vigorously, and her capture is certain; so you persevere for half a mile or so, and then she is up and away, leaving you to find your way back to the nest if you can. Among the ancients, opinion was at variance respecting the wholesomeness and digestibility of goose flesh, but concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed; indeed, they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for exquisite flavour and delicacy, they even attributed to it medicinal powers of the highest order. Not only the Roman medical writers of the time make mention of it, but likewise the philosophers of the period. Plutarch assures us that Cato preserved his whole household in health, in a season when plague and disease were rife, through dieting them on roast duck. 

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

935. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 or4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of thingravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1teaspoonful of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, laythem in with the slices of lean ham or bacon; make it brown, then dredgein a tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding thegravy. Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it hassimmered for 1/4 hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew gentlyfor about 1/2 hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; take out theduck, place it round the dish, and the peas in the middle. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August. 

 DUCKS HATCHING. --Concerning incubation by ducks, a practised writer says, "The duck requires a secret and safe place, rather than any attendance, and will, at nature's call, cover her eggs and seek her food. On hatching, there is not often a necessity for taking away any of the brood; and, having hatched, let the mother retain her young ones upon the nest her own time. On her moving with her brood, let a coop be prepared upon the short grass, if the weather be fine, and under shelter, if otherwise. "

 COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS. --Brood ducks should be cooped at some distance from any other. A wide and flat dish of water, to be often renewed, should stand just outside the coop, and barley, or any other meal, be the first food of the ducklings. It will be needful, if it be wet weather, to clip their tails, lest these draggle, and so weaken the bird. The period of the duck's confinement to the coop will depend on the weather, and on the strength of the ducklings. A fortnight is usually the extent of time necessary, and they may even be sometimes permitted to enjoy the luxury of a swim at the end of a week. They should not, however, be allowed to stay too long in the water at first; for they will then become ill, their feathers get rough, and looseness of the bowels ensue. In the latter case, let them be closely cooped for a few days, and bean-meal or oatmeal be mixed with their ordinary food. 

[Illustration: AYLESBURY DUCKS. ]

 THE AYLESBURY DUCK. --The white Aylesbury duck is, and deservedly, a universal favourite. Its snowy plumage and comfortable comportment make it a credit to the poultry-yard, while its broad and deep breast, and its ample back, convey the assurance that your satisfaction will not cease at its death. In parts of Buckinghamshire, this member of the duck family is bred on an extensive scale; not on plains and commons, however, as might be naturally imagined, but in the abodes of the cottagers. Round the walls of the living-rooms, and of the bedroom even, are fixed rows of wooden boxes, lined with hay; and it is the business of the wife and children to nurse and comfort the feathered lodgers, to feed the little ducklings, and to take the old ones out for an airing. Sometimes the "stock" ducks are the cottager's own property, but it more frequently happens that they are intrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder, who pays him so much _per_ score for all ducklings properly raised. To be perfect, the Aylesbury duck should be plump, pure white, with yellow feet, and a flesh-coloured beak. 

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

936. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of goodgravy, cayenne and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz, of butter rolled in flour, 1-1/2pint of green peas. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the duck into joints, lay it in the gravy, and add aseasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced lemon-peel; let tins graduallywarm through, but not boil. Throw the peas into boiling water slightlysalted, and boil them rapidly until tender. Drain them, stir in thepounded sugar, and the butter rolled in flour; shake them over the firefor two or three minutes, and serve in the centre of the dish, with theduck laid round. 

_Time_. --15 minutes to boil the peas, when they are full grown. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 10d. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August. 

 FATTENING DUCKS. --Many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in the shape of food, letting them wander about and pick up a living for themselves; and they will seem to get fat even upon this precarious feeding. Unless, however, ducks are supplied with, besides chance food, a liberal feed of solid corn, or grain, morning and evening, their flesh will become flabby and insipid. The simple way to fatten ducks is to let them have as much, substantial food as they will eat, bruised oats and pea-meal being the standard fattening food for them. No cramming is required, as with the turkey and some other poultry: they will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation. At the same time, plenty of exercise and clean water should be at their service. 

 AMERICAN MODE OF CAPTURING DUCKS. --On the American rivers, the modes of capture are various. Sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft, and which is so weighted that the sham birds squat naturally on the water. This is quite sufficient to attract the notice of a passing flock, who descend to cultivate the acquaintance of the isolated few when the concealed hunter, with his fowling-piece, scatters a deadly leaden shower amongst them. In the winter, when the water is covered with rubble ice, the fowler of the Delaware paints his canoe entirely white, lies flat in the bottom of it, and floats with the broken ice; from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to distinguish it. So floats the canoe till he within it understands, by the quacking, and fluttering, and whirring of wings, that he is in the midst of a flock, when he is up in a moment with the murderous piece, and dying quacks and lamentations rend the still air. 

[Illustration: BOW-BILL DUCKS. ]

 Bow-BILL DUCKS, &c. --Every one knows how awkward are the _Anatidae_, waddling along on their unelastic webbed toes, and their short legs, which, being placed considerably backward, make the fore part of the body preponderate. Some, however, are formed more adapted to terrestrial habits than others, and notably amongst these may be named _Dendronessa sponsa_, the summer duck of America. This beautiful bird rears her young in the holes of trees, generally overhanging the water. When strong enough, the young scramble to the mouth of the hole, launch into the air with their little wings and feet spread out, and drop into their favourite element. Whenever their birthplace is at some distance from the water, the mother carries them to it, one by one, in her bill, holding them so as not to injure their yet tender frame. On several occasions, however, when the hole was 30, 40, or more yards from a piece of water, Audubon observed that the mother suffered the young to fall on the grass and dried leaves beneath the tree, and afterwards led them directly to the nearest edge of the next pool or creek. There are some curious varieties of the domestic duck, which only appear interesting from their singularity, for there does not seem to be anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which distinguish them; thus, the bow-bill duck, as shown in the engraving, called by some writers the hook-bill, is remarkable for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak, and the tuft on the top of its head. The penguin duck, again, waddles in an upright position, like the penguin, on account of the unnatural situation of its legs. These odd peculiarities add nothing of value to the various breeds, and may be set down as only the result of accidental malformation, transmitted from generation to generation. 

STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

937. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of goodgravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savouryherbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. Of turnips, weighed after beingpeeled, 2 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, andherbs, and put them, with the duck, into the gravy; add the poundedmace, and stew gently for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. Cut about 1 lb. Ofturnips, weighed after being peeled, into 1/2-inch squares, put thebutter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite tender, which will be inabout 1/2 hour, or rather more; season with pepper and salt, and servein the centre of the dish, with the duck, &c. Laid round. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour to stew the turnips. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

 THE WILD DUCK. --In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially in those desolate fenny parts where water abounds. In Lincolnshire they are plentiful, and are annually taken in the decoys, which consist of ponds situate in the marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from, being disturbed. In these the birds sleep during the day; and as soon as evening sets in, the _decoy rises_, and the wild fowl feed during the night. Now is the time for the decoy ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds diverge, in different directions, certain canals, at the end of which funnel nets are placed; along these the _decoy ducks_, trained for the purpose, lead the others in search of food. After they have got a certain length, a decoy-man appears, and drives them further on, until they are finally taken in the nets. It is from these decoys, in Lincolnshire, that the London market is mostly supplied. The Chinese have a singular mode of catching these ducks. A person wades in the water up to the chin, and, having his head covered with an empty calabash, approaches the place where the ducks are. As the birds have no suspicion of the nature of the object which is concealed under the calabash, they suffer its approach, and allow it to move at will among their flock. The man, accordingly, walks about in the midst of his game, and, whenever he pleases, pulls them by the legs under the water, and fixes them to his belt, until he has secured as many as he requires, and then moves off as he went amongst them, without exciting the slightest suspicion of the trick he has been playing them. This singular mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, the earthen vessels of the Hindoos being used instead of calabashes. These vessels, being those in which the inhabitants boil their rice, are considered, after once being used, as defiled, and are accordingly thrown into the river. The duck-takers, finding them suitable for their purpose, put them on their heads; and as the ducks, from seeing them constantly floating down the stream, are familiar with their appearance, they regard them as objects from which no danger is to be expected. 

[Illustration: CALL-DUCKS. ]

 DUCK-SNARES IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE FENS. --The following interesting account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the Lincolnshire fens, was published some years ago, in a work entitled the "Feathered Tribes. "--"In the lakes to which they resorted, their favourite haunts were observed, and in the most sequestered part of a haunt, a pipe or ditch was cut across the entrance, decreasing gradually in width from the entrance to the further end, which was not more than two feet wide. The ditch was of a circular form, but did not bend much for the first ten yards. The banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept clear of weeds and close herbage, in order that the ducks might get on them to sit and dress themselves. Along the ditch, poles were driven into the ground close to the edge on each side, and the tops were bent over across the ditch and tied together. The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed an arch, the top of which was tea feet distant from the surface of the water; the arch was made to decrease in height as the ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more than eighteen inches in height. The poles were placed about six feet from each other, and connected by poles laid lengthwise across the arch, and tied together. Over the whole was thrown a net, which was made fast to a reed fence at the entrance and nine or ten yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged to the ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance, was fixed what was called a tunnel-net, of about four yards in length, of a round form, and kept open by a number of hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed at a small distance from each other to keep it distended. Supposing the circular bend of the ditch to be to the right, when one stands with his back to the lake, then on the left-hand side, a number of reed fences were constructed, called shootings, for the purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, and, in such a manner, that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed while he was driving those that were in the pipe. These shootings, which were ten in number, were about four yards in length and about six feet high. From the end of the last shooting a person could not see the lake, owing to the bend of the ditch; and there was then no further occasion for shelter. Were it not for these shootings, the fowl that remained about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed, if the person driving the fowl already under the net should have been exposed, and would have become so shy as entirely to forsake the place. "

 THE DECOY MAN, DOG, AND DUCKS. --"The first thing the decoy-man did, on approaching the ditch, was to take a piece of lighted peat or turf, and to hold it near his mouth, to prevent the birds from smelling him. He was attended by a dog trained to render him assistance. He walked very silently about halfway up the shootings, where a small piece of wood was thrust through the reed fence, which made an aperture just large enough to enable him to see if there were any fowl within; if not, he walked to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch. If there were, he stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a piece of cheese to eat, when the dog went directly to a hole through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew off the back into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the reed fences, and came out to his master at another hole. The man then gave the dog something more to encourage him, and the dog repeated his rounds, till the birds were attracted by his motions, and followed him into the mouth of the ditch--an operation which was called 'working them. ' The man now retreated further back, working the dog at different holes, until the ducks were sufficiently under the net. He then commanded his dog to lie down under the fence, and going himself forward to the end of the ditch next the lake, he took off his hat, and gave it a wave between the shootings. All the birds that were under the net could then see him, but none that were in the lake could. The former flew forward, and the man then ran to the next shooting, and waved his hat, and so on, driving them along until they came into the tunnel-net, into which they crept. When they were all in, the man gave the net a twist, so as to prevent them getting back. He then took the net off from the end of the ditch, and taking out, one by one, the ducks that were in it, dislocated their necks. "

BOILED FOWLS OR CHICKENS. 

[Illustration: BOILED FOWL. ]

938. INGREDIENTS. --A pair of fowls; water. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --In choosing fowls for boiling, it should beborne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally muchwhiter when dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and truss them in thefollowing manner, without the livers in the wings; and, in drawing, becareful not to break the gall-bladder:--Cut off the neck, leavingsufficient skin to skewer back. Cut the feet off to the first joint, tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist thewings over the back of the fowl, and secure the top of the leg and thebottom of the wing together by running a skewer through them and thebody. The other side must be done in the same manner. Should the fowl bevery large and old, draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in. Make a slit in the apron of the fowl, large enough to admit the parson'snose, and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in theirproper place. 

_Mode_. --When, they are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpan withplenty of hot water; bring it to boil, and carefully remove all the scumas it rises. _Simmer very gently_ until the fowl is tender, and bear inmind that the slower it boils, the plumper and whiter will the fowl be. Many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth to preserve the colour, and toprevent the scum from clinging to them; in this case, a few slices oflemon should be placed on the breasts; over these a sheet of butteredpaper, and then the cloth; cooking them in this manner renders the fleshvery white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or pickled pork, are theusual accompaniments to boiled fowls, and they may be served withBéchamel, white sauce, parsley and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, celery, or mushroom sauce. A little should be poured over the fowls, after theskewers are removed, and the remainder sent in a tureen to table. 

_Time_. --Large fowl, 1 hour; moderate-sized one, 3/4 hour; chicken, from20 minutes to 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. The pair. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. 

[Illustration: GAME-FOWLS. ]

 THE GAME FOWL. --Respecting the period at which this well-known member of the _Gallus_ family became domesticated, history is silent. There is little doubt, however, that, like the dog, it has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to civilization. Although the social position of this bird is, at the present time, highly respectable, it is nothing to what it was when Rome was mistress of the world. Writing at that period, Pliny says, respecting the domestic cock, "The gait of the cock is proud and commanding; he walks with head erect and elevated crest; alone, of all birds, he habitually looks up to the sky, raising, at the same time, his curved and scythe-formed tail, and inspiring terror in the lion himself, that most intrepid of animals. ----They regulate the conduct of our magistrates, and open or close to them their own houses. They prescribe rest or movement to the Roman fasces: they command or prohibit battles. In a word, they lord it over the masters of the world. " As well among the ancient Greeks as the Romans, was the cock regarded with respect, and even awe. The former people practised divinations by means of this bird. Supposing there to be a doubt in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle, the letter of every day in the week would be placed face downwards, and a grain of corn placed on each; then the sacred cock would be let loose, and, according to the letters he pecked his corn from, so would the battle-time be regulated. On one momentous occasion, however, a person inimical to priestly interest officiously examined the grain, and found that those lying on the letters not wanted were made of wax, and the birds, preferring the true grain, left these untouched. It is needless to add that, after this, divination through the medium of cocks and grain fell out of fashion. Whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were of the "game" breed, is unknown; but that the birds were bred for the inhuman sport of fighting many hundred years before the Christian era, there can be no doubt. Themistocles, the Athenian king, who flourished more than two thousand years ago, took advantage of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to harangue his soldiers on courage. "Observe, " said he, "with what intrepid valour they fight, inspired by no other motive than lore of victory; whereas you have to contend for your religion and your liberty, for your wives and children, and for the tombs of your ancestors. " And to this day his courage has not degenerated. He still preserves his bold and elegant gait, his sparkling eye, while his wedge-shaped beak and cruel spurs are ever ready to support his defiant crow. It is no wonder that the breed is not plentiful--first, on account of the few eggs laid by the hen; and, secondly, from the incurable pugnacity of the chicks. Half fledged broods may be found blind as bats from fighting, and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be at it again. Without doubt, the flesh of game fowls is every way superior to that of every chicken of the family. 

BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

939. INGREDIENTS. --A large fowl, seasoning, to taste, of pepper andsalt, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, 3/4 pint ofthickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful ofpounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowl into quarters, roast it until three-parts done, and keep it well basted whilst at the fire. Take the fowl up, broil itfor a few minutes over a clear fire, and season it with pepper and salt. Have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner. Put themushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, the ham, aseasoning of pepper and salt, and the gravy; simmer these gently for 1/2hour, add the lemon-juice and sugar, dish the fowl, and pour the sauceround them. 

_Time_. --To roast the fowl, 35 minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season from May to January. 

[Illustration: BLACK BANTAMS. ]

 THE BANTAM. --No one will dispute that for beauty, animation, plumage, and courage the Bantam is entitled to rank next to the game fowl. As its name undoubtedly implies, the bird is of Asiatic origin. The choicest sorts are the buff-coloured, and those that are entirely black. A year-old Bantam cock of pure breed will not weigh more than sixteen ounces. Despite its small size, however, it is marvellously bold, especially in defence of its progeny. A friend of the writer's, residing at Kensington, possessed a pair of thorough-bred Bantams, that were allowed the range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kennelled. The hen had chicks; and, when about three weeks old, one of them strayed into the dog-kennel. The grim beast within took no notice of the tiny fledgling; but, when the anxious mother ventured in to fetch out the truant, with a growl the dog woke, and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws. The cock bird saw the tragic fate of its partner; but, nothing daunted, flew at the dog with a fierce cry, and pecked savagely at its face. The odds, however, were too great; and, when the terrier had sufficiently recovered from the astonishment caused by the sudden and unexpected attack, he seized the audacious Bantam, and shook him to death; and, in five minutes, the devoted couple were entombed in _Pincher's_ capacious maw. 

BOILED FOWL AND RICE. 

940. INGREDIENTS. --1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small blades ofpounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of rice, parsley andbutter. 

_Mode_. --Truss the fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan withsufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it; add the onion, mace, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; stew very gently for about 1hour, should the fowl be large, and about 1/2 hour before it is readyput in the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the latteris tender, strain it from the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed todry before the fire, and, in the mean time, keep the fowl hot. Dish it, put the rice round as a border, pour a little parsley and butter overthe fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --A large fowl, 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. 

[Illustration: DORKINGS. ]

 THE DORKING. --This bird takes its name from that of a town in Surrey, where the breed is to be found in greater numbers, and certainly in greater perfection, than elsewhere. It is generally believed that this particular branch of poultry was found in the town above mentioned as long ago as the Roman era. The Dorking's chief characteristic is that he has five claws on each foot; the extra claw, however, is never of sufficient length to encumber the foot, or to cause it to "drag" its nest, or scratch out the eggs. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white; long in the body, short in the legs, and a prolific layer. Thirty years ago, there was much controversy respecting the origin of the Dorking. The men of Sussex declared that the bird belonged to them, and brought birds indigenous to their weald, and possessing all the Dorking fine points and peculiarities, in proof of the declaration. Others inclined to the belief that the Poland bird was the father of the Dorking, and not without at least a show of reason, as the former bird much resembles the latter in shape; and, despite its sombre hue, it is well known that the Poland cock will occasionally beget thorough white stock from white English hens. The commotion has, however, long ago subsided, and Dorking still retains its fair reputation for fowl. 

CURRIED FOWL. 

941. INGREDIENTS. --1 fowl, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 onions sliced, 1 pint ofwhite veal gravy, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful offlour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a stewpan, with the onions sliced, the fowlcut into small joints, and the apple peeled, cored, and minced. Fry of apale brown, add the stock, and stew gently for 20 minutes; rub down thecurry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy, quite smoothly, andstir this to the other ingredients; simmer for rather more than 1/2hour, and just before serving, add the above proportion of hot cream andlemon-juice. Serve with boiled rice, which may either be heaped lightlyon a dish by itself, or put round the curry as a border. 

_Time_. --50 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in the winter. 

_Note_. --This curry may be made of cold chicken, but undressed meat willbe found far superior. 

 THE POLAND. --This bird, a native of Holland, is a great favourite with fowl-keepers, especially those who have on eye to profit rather than to amusement. Those varieties known as the "silver spangled" and the "gold spangled" are handsome enough to please the most fastidious; but the common black breed, with the bushy crown of white feathers, is but a plain bird. The chief value of the common Poland lies in the great number of eggs they produce; indeed, in many parts, they are as well known as "everlasting layers" as by their proper name. However, the experienced breeder would take good care to send the eggs of his everlasting layers to market, and not use them for home consumption, as, although they may be as large as those laid by other hens, the amount of nutriment contained in them is not nearly so great. Mr. Mowbray once kept an account of the number of eggs produced by this prolific bird, with the following result:--From the 25th of October to the 25th of the following September five hens laid 503 eggs; the average weight of each egg was one ounce five drachms, and the total weight of the whole, exclusive of the shells, 50-1/4 pounds. Taking the weight of the birds at the fair average of five pounds each, we thus see them producing within a year double their weight of egg alone; and, supposing every egg to contain a chick, and allowing the chick to, grow, in less than eighteen months from the laying of the first egg, _two thousand five hundred pounds_ of chicken-meat would be the result. The Poland is easily fattened, and its flesh is generally considered juicier and of richer flavour than most others. 

[Illustration: SPANGLED POLANDS. ]

CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery). 

942. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large onions, 1apple, 2 oz. Of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonfulof flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut thefowl into neat joints; fry these in the butter of a nice brown; then addthe curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew for about 20 minutes. Putin the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice, either placed in a ridgeround the dish or separately. Two or three shallots or a little garlicmay be added, if approved. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. _Av. Cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ in the winter. 

[Illustration: COCHIN-CHINAS. ]

 THE COCHIN-CHINA. --About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this distinguished Asiatic created in England as great a sensation as might be expected from the landing of an invading host. The first pair that ever made their appearance here were natives of Shanghai, and were presented to the queen, who exhibited them at the Dublin poultry-show of 1818. Then began the "Cochin" _furor_. As soon as it was discovered, despite the most strenuous endeavours to keep the tremendous secret, that a certain dealer was possessed of a pair of these birds, straightway the avenues to that dealer's shop were blocked by broughams, and chariots, and hack cabs, until the shy poulterer had been tempted by a sufficiently high sum to part with his treasure. Bank-notes were exchanged for Cochin chicks, and Cochin eggs were in as great demand as though they had been laid by the fabled golden goose. The reign of the Cochin China was, however, of inconsiderable duration. The bird that, in 1847, would fetch thirty guineas, is now counted but ordinary chicken-meat, and its price is regulated according to its weight when ready for the spit. As for the precious buff eggs, against which, one time of day, guineas were weighed, --send for sixpenn'orth at the cheesemonger's, and you will get at least five; which is just as it should be. For elegance of shape or quality of flesh, the Cochin cannot for a moment stand comparison with our handsome dunghill; neither can the indescribable mixture of growling and braying, peculiar to the former, vie with the musical trumpeting of our own morning herald: yet our poultry-breeders have been immense gainers by the introduction of the ungainly celestial, inasmuch as _new blood_ has been infused into the English chicken family. Of this incalculable advantage we may be sure; while, as to the Cochin's defects, they are certain to be lost in the process of "cross and cross" breeding. 

BOILED FOWLS A LA BECHAMEL. 

943. INGREDIENTS. --A pair of fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel, No, 367, a fewbunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower. 

_Mode_. --Truss and boil the fowls by recipe No. 938; make a pint ofBéchamel sauce by recipe No. 367; pour some of this over the fowls, andthe remainder send to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with bunchesof boiled cauliflowers or brocoli, and serve very hot. The sauce shouldbe made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls; that for the tureenshould be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. A pair. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. 

 SPACE FOR FOWLS. --We are no advocates for converting the domestic fowl into a cage-bird. We have known amateur fowl-keepers--worthy souls, who would butter the very barley they gave their pets, if they thought they would the more enjoy it--coop up a male bird and three or four hens in an ordinary egg-chest placed on its side, and with the front closely barred with iron hooping! This system will not do. Every animal, from man himself to the guinea-pig, must have what is vulgarly, but truly, known as "elbow-room;" and it must be self-evident how emphatically this rule applies to winged animals. It may be urged, in the case of domestic fowls, that from constant disuse, and from clipping and plucking, and other sorts of maltreatment, their wings can hardly be regarded as instruments of flight; we maintain, however, that you may pluck a fowl's wing-joints as bare as a pumpkin, but you will not erase from his memory that he is a fowl, and that his proper sphere is the open air. If he likewise reflects that he is an ill-used fowl--a prison-bird--he will then come to the conclusion, that there is not the least use, under such circumstances, for his existence; and you must admit that the decision is only logical and natural. 

BOILED FOWL, with Oysters. 

(_Excellent_. )

944. INGREDIENTS. --1 young fowl, 3 dozen oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream. 

_Mode_. --Truss a young fowl as for boiling; fill the inside with oysterswhich have been bearded and washed in their own liquor; secure the endsof the fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar into a saucepan ofboiling water. Keep it boiling for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer; thentake the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which therewill be a good quantity; stir in the cream and yolks of eggs, add a fewoysters scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get quite _hot_, but donot allow it to _boil;_ pour some of it over the fowl, and the remaindersend to table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace added to the sauce, with the cream and eggs, will be found an improvement. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to April. 

 THE FOWL-HOUSE. --In building a fowl-house, take care that it be, if possible, built against a wall or fence that faces the _south_, and thus insure its inmates against many cold winds, driving rains, and sleets they will otherwise suffer. Let the floor of the house slope half an inch to the foot from back to front, so as to insure drainage; let it also be close, hard, and perfectly smooth; so that it may be cleanly swept out. A capital plan is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it over the floor, and pay a paviour's labourer a trifle to hammer it level with his rammer. The fowl-house should be seven feet high, and furnished with perches at least two feet apart. The perches must be level, and not one above the other, or unpleasant consequences may ensue to the undermost row. The perches should be ledged (not fixed--just dropped into sockets, that they may be easily taken out and cleaned) not lower than five feet from the ground, convenient slips of wood being driven into the wall, to render the ascent as easy as possible. The front of the fowl-house should be latticed, taking care that the interstices be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl through. Nesting-boxes, containing soft hay, and fitted against the walls, so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder, should be supplied. It will be as well to keep by you a few portable doors, so that you may hang one before the entrance to a nesting-box, when the hen goes in to sit. This will prevent other hens from intruding, a habit to which some are much addicted. 

FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree). 

945. INGREDIENTS. --2 small fowls or 1 large one, 3 oz. Of butter, abunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1 shalot, 1 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolksof 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Choose a couple of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing, singeing, and washing them, skin, and carve them into joints; blanchthese in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes; take them out, and immersethem in cold water to render them white. Put the trimmings, with thenecks and legs, into a stewpan; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace, shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour to these thewater that the chickens were blanched in, and simmer gently for rathermore than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan; put in the joints of fowl, with the above proportion of butter; dredge them with flour, let themget hot, but do not brown them much; then moisten the fricassee with thegravy made from the trimmings, &c. , and stew very gently for 1/2 hour. Lift the fowl into another stewpan, skim the sauce, reduce it quicklyover the fire, by letting it boil fast, and strain it over them. Add thecream, and a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne; let it boil up, andwhen ready to serve, stir to it the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs: theseshould not be put in till the last moment, and the sauce should be made_hot_, but must _not boil_, or it will instantly curdle. A fewbutton-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many persons considered animprovement. 

_Time_. --1 hour to make the gravy, 1/2 hour to simmer the fowl. 

_Average cost_, 5s. The pair. 

_Sufficient_. --1 large fowl for one entrée. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 STOCKING THE FOWL-HOUSE. --Take care that the birds with which you stock your house are _young_. The surest indications of old age are fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a dingy brick-colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the scales of the legs and feet assuming a ragged and _corny_ appearance. Your cock and hens should be as near two years old as possible. Hens will lay at a year old, but the eggs are always insignificant in size, and the layers giddy and unsteady sitters. The hen-bird is in her prime for breeding at three years old, and will continue so, under favourable circumstances, for two years longer; after which she will decline. Crowing hens, and those that have large combs, are generally looked on with mistrust; but this is mere silliness and superstition--though it is possible that a spruce young cock would as much object to a spouse with such peculiar addictions, as a young fellow of our own species would to a damsel who whistled and who wore whiskers. Fowls with yellow legs should be avoided; they are generally of a tender constitution, loose-fleshed, and of indifferent flavour. 

FRICASSEED FOWL (Cold Meat Cookery). 

946. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip oflemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, popper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/4pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Carve the fowls into nice joints; make gravy of the trimmingsand legs, by stewing them with the lemon-peel, mace, herbs, onion, seasoning, and water, until reduced to 1/2 pint; then strain, and put inthe fowl. Warm it through, and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour; stirthe yolks of the eggs into the cream; add these to the sauce, let it getthoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. 

_Time_. --1 hour to make the gravy, 1/4 hour to warm the fowl. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CHARACTERISTICS OF HEALTH AND POWER. --The chief characteristics of health in a fowl are brightness and dryness of eye and nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, the feathers elastic and glossy. The most useful cock is generally the greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despotically, with his head erect and his eyes ever watchful. There is likely to be handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold, active--even savage--bird reigns, than where the lord of the hen-house is a weak, meek creature, who bears the abuse and peckings of his wives without a remonstrance. I much prefer dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage. A cock, to be handsome, should be of middling size; his bill should be short, comb bright-red, wattles large, breast broad, and wings strong. His head should be rather small than otherwise, his legs short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed; his feathers should be short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he crows, the better father he is likely to become. The common error of choosing hens _above_ the ordinary stature of their respective varieties should be avoided, as the best breeding-hens are those of medium size. 

FRIED FOWLS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

I. 

947. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt andcayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shalots. For the batter, --1/2 lb. Offlour, 1/2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. Of butter, the whites of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowl into nice joints; steep them for an hour in alittle vinegar, with salt, cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the batterby mixing the flour and water smoothly together; melt in it the butter, and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth; take out the pieces offowl, dip them in the batter, and fry, in boiling lard, a nice brown. Pile them high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley or rolledbacon. When approved, a sauce or gravy may be served with them. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the fowl. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CHANTICLEER AND HIS COMPANIONS. --On bringing the male and female birds together for the first time, it will be necessary to watch the former closely, as it is a very common occurrence with him to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his wives, and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some distance of the others; indeed, I know many cases where the capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause of his resentment and killed her outright. In all such cases, the hen objected to should be removed and replaced by another. If the cock should, by any accident, get killed, considerable delicacy is required in introducing a new one. The hens may mope, and refuse to associate with their new husband, clustering in corners, and making odious comparisons between him and the departed; or the cock may have his own peculiar notions as to what a wife should be, and be by no means satisfied with those you have provided him. The plan is, to keep him by himself nearly the whole day, supplying him plentifully with exhilarating food, then to turn him loose among the hens, and to continue this practice, allowing him more of the society of his wives each day, until you suffer him to abide with them altogether. 

II. 

948. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, salt andcayenne to taste, 4 minced shalots, yolk of egg; to every teacupful ofbread crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded mace, 5 teaspoonful of mincedlemon-peel, 1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe, then dipthem into the yolk of an egg or clarified butter; sprinkle over breadcrumbs with which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, and lemon-peel inthe above proportion. Fry a light brown, and serve with or withoutgravy, as may be preferred. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the fowl. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS. --It would, I think, be a difficult matter to find, among the entire fraternity of fowl-keepers, a dozen whose mode of fattening "stock" is the same. Some say that the grand f secret is to give them abundance of saccharine food; others say nothing beats heavy corn steeped in milk; while another breeder, celebrated in his day, and the recipient of a gold medal from a learned society, says, "The best method is as follows:-The chickens are to be taken from the hen the night after they are hatched, and fed with eggs hard-boiled, chopped, and mixed with crumbs of bread, as larks and other small birds are fed, for the first fortnight; after which give them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble, of which the chickens are very fond, and thrive so fast that, at the end of two months, they will be as large as full-grown fowls. " Others there are who insist that nothing beats oleaginous diet, and cram their birds with ground oats and suet. But, whatever the course of diet favoured, on one point they seem agreed; and that is, that, while fattening, the fowls _should be kept in the dark_. Supposing the reader to be a dealer--a breeder of gross chicken meat for the market (against which supposition the chances are 10, 000 to 1), and beset with as few scruples as generally trouble the huckster, the advice is valuable. "Laugh and grow fat" is a good maxim enough; but "Sleep and grow fat" is, as is well known to folks of porcine attributes, a better. The poor birds, immured in their dark dungeons, ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad, tuck their heads under their wings and make a long night of it; while their digestive organs, having no harder work than to pile up fat, have an easy time enough. But, unless we are mistaken, he who breeds poultry for his own eating, bargains for a more substantial reward than the questionable pleasure of burying his carving-knife in chicken grease. Tender, delicate, and nutritious flesh is the great aim; and these qualities, I can affirm without fear of contradiction, were never attained by a dungeon-fatted chicken: perpetual gloom and darkness is as incompatible with chicken life as it is with human. If you wish to be convinced of the absurdity of endeavouring to thwart nature's laws, plant a tuft of grass, or a cabbage-plant, in the darkest corner of your coal-cellar. The plant or the tuft may increase in length and breadth, but its colour will be as wan and pale, almost, as would be your own face under the circumstances. 

POULET A LA MARENGO. 

949. INGREDIENTS. --1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 1tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powderedsugar, a very small piece of garlic. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces; put them with the oil into astewpan, and brown them over a moderate fire; dredge in the aboveproportion of flour; when that is browned, pour in the stock or water;let it simmer very slowly for rather more than 1/2 hour, and skim offthe fat as it rises to the top; add the mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, garlic, and sugar; take out the fowl, which arrangepyramidically on the dish, with the inferior joints at the bottom. Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirreduntil sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon; pour over thefowl, and serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 A FOWL À LA MARENGO. --The following is the origin of the well-known dish Poulet à la Marengo:--On the evening of the battle the first consul was very hungry after the agitation of the day, and a fowl was ordered with all expedition. The fowl was procured, but there was no butter at hand, and unluckily none could be found in the neighbourhood. There was oil in abundance, however; and the cook having poured a certain quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, with a clove of garlic and other seasoning, with a little white wine, the best the country afforded; he then garnished it with mushrooms, and served it up hot. This dish proved the second conquest of the day, as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate, and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a fowl à la Marengo is a favourite dish with all lovers of good cheer. 

MINCED FOWL A LA BECHAMEL. 

950. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonfuls ofBéchamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoonfuls of white stock No. 107, thewhite of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Take the remains of roast fowls, mince the white meat verysmall, and put it into a stewpan with the Béchamel and stock; stir itwell over the fire, and just let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish, beat up the white of egg, spread it over, and strew on it a few gratedbread crumbs; pour a very little clarified butter on the whole, andbrown either before the fire or with a salamander. This should be servedin a silver dish, if at hand. 

_Time_. --2 or 3 minutes to simmer in the sauce. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE BEST WAY TO FATTEN FOWLS. --The barn-door fowl is in itself a complete refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of feeding practised by some. This fowl, which has the common run of the farm-yard, living on dairy-scraps and offal from the stable, begins to grow fat at threshing-time. He has his fill of the finest corn; he has his fill of fresh air and natural exercise, and at last he comes smoking to the table, --a dish for the gods. In the matter of unnaturally stuffing and confining fowls, Mowbray is exactly of our opinion. He says: "The London chicken-butchers, as they are termed, are said to be, of all others, the most expeditious and dexterous feeders, putting up a coop of fowls, and making them thoroughly fat within the space of a fortnight, using much grease, and that perhaps not of the most delicate kind, in the food. In this way I have no boasts to make, having always found it necessary to allow a considerable number of weeks for the purpose of making fowls fat in coops. In the common way this business is often badly managed, fowls being huddled together in a small coop, tearing each other to pieces, instead of enjoying that repose which alone can insure, the wished-for object--irregularly fed and cleaned, until they become so stenched and poisoned in their own excrement, that their flesh actually smells and tastes when smoking upon the table. " Sussex produces the fattest and largest poultry of any county in England, and the fatting process there most common is to give them a gruel made of pot-liquor and bruised oats, with which are mixed hog's grease, sugar, and milk. The fowls are kept very warm, and crammed morning and night. They are put into the coop, and kept there two or three days before the cramming begins, and then it is continued for a fortnight, and the birds are sent to market. 

RAGOUT OF FOWL. 

951. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowls, 3 shalots, 2 bladesof mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 or three slices of lean ham, 1pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, 1dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowls up into neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee;put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots, mace, herbs, ham, onion, and stock (water may be substituted for this). Boil it slowly for1 hour, strain the liquor, and put a small piece of butter into astewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the butter, and stir it over the fire. Put in the strained liquor, boil for a fewminutes, and strain it again over the pieces of fowl. Squeeze in thelemon-juice, add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt, make ithot, but do not allow it to boil; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, andgarnish with croûtons. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the coldfowl, 9d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE BEST FOWLS TO FATTEN, &c. --The chicks most likely to fatten well are those first hatched in the brood, and those with the shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them; for, as says an old writer, "then they will be in fine condition, and full of flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of foraging for food, and in the increase of stature; and it may be a work of some weeks to recover it, --especially with young cocks. " But whether you take them in hand as chicks, or not till they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are, sound and various food, warmth, and cleanliness. There is nothing that a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as his water. If water any way foul be offered him, he will not drink it, but sulk with his food, and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take care that they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans, brown sugar, milk, and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is stale, then crumble it, and give each bird a gill-measureful morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls during the time they are fattening; indeed, the secret of success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills shall find no difficulty in grinding it. 

[Illustration: ROAST FOWL. ]

ROAST FOWLS. 

952. INGREDIENTS. --A pair of fowls; a little flour. 

_Mode_. --Fowls to be tender should be killed a couple of days beforethey are dressed; when the feathers come out easily, then let them bepicked and cooked. In drawing them, be careful not to break thegall-bag, as, wherever it touches, it would impart a very bitter taste;the liver and gizzard should also be preserved. Truss them in thefollowing manner:--After having carefully picked them, cut off the head, and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back. Cut off the claws;dip the legs in boiling water, and scrape them; turn the pinions under, run a skewer through them and the middle of the legs, which should bepassed through the body to the pinion and leg on the other side, oneskewer securing the limbs on both sides. The liver and gizzard should beplaced in the wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other. Tie the legs together by passing a trussing-needle, threaded with twine, through the backbone, and secure it on the other side. If trussed like acapon, the legs are placed more apart. When firmly trussed, singe themall over; put them down to a bright clear fire, paper the breasts with asheet of buttered paper, and keep the fowls well basted. Roast them for3/4 hour, more or less, according to the size, and 10 minutes beforeserving, remove the paper, dredge the fowls with a little fine flour, put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste thefowls with it; when nicely frothed and of a rich colour, serve with goodbrown gravy, a little of which should be poured over the fowls, and atureen of well-made bread sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauceare very suitable accompaniments to roast fowl. --Chicken is roasted inthe same manner. 

_Time_. --A very large fowl, quite 1 hour, medium-sized one 3/4 hour, chicken 1/2 hour, or rather longer. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 5s. A pair; when scarce, 7s. 6d. Thepair. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. 

 THE DISEASES OF FOWLS, AND HOW TO CURE THEM. --The diseases to which _Gallus domesticus_ is chiefly liable, are roup, pip, scouring, and chip. The first-mentioned is the most common of all, and results from cold. The ordinary symptoms, --swollen eyes, running at the nostrils, and the purple colour of the wattles. Part birds so affected from the healthy ones, as, when the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders among horses. Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily a peppercorn inclosed in dough; bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water. If the head is much swollen, bathe with warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting well, put half a spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water. Some fanciers prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table salt, dissolved in half a gill of water, in which rue has been steeped; others, pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter: but the remedy first mentioned will be found far the best. As there is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of the eggs laid by roupy hens, it will be as well to throw them away. The pip is a white horny skin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue. It should be removed with the point of a penknife, and the place rubbed with salt. 

FOWL AND RICE CROQUETTES (an Entree). 

953. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. Ofbutter, minced fowl, egg, and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or broth, and let it boil very gently for 1/2 hour; then add the butter, andsimmer it till quite dry and soft When cold, make it into balls, hollowout the inside, and fill with minced fowl made by recipe No. 956. Themince should be rather thick. Cover over with rice, dip the balls intoegg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Dish them, and garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream, may be stirred into the rice before it cools. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CHIP. --If the birds are allowed to puddle about on wet soil, or to be much out in the rain, they will get "chip. " Young chicks are especially liable to this complaint. They will sit shivering in out-of-the-way corners, perpetually uttering a dolorous "chip, chip;" seemingly frozen with cold, though, on handling them, they are found to be in high fever. A wholesale breeder would take no pains to attempt the cure of fowls so afflicted; but they who keep chickens for the pleasure, and not for the profit they yield, will be inclined to recover them if possible. Give them none but warm food, half a peppercorn rolled in a morsel of dough every night, and a little nitre in their water. Above all, keep them warm; a corner in the kitchen fender, for a day or two, will do more to effect a cure than the run of a druggist's warehouse. 

CROQUETTES OF FOWL (an Entree). 

954. INGREDIENTS. --3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 teaspoonful offlour, white sauce; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; 1/2teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolksof 2 eggs, egg, and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Mince the fowl, carefully removing all skin and bone, and frythe shalots in the butter; add the minced fowl, dredge in the flour, putin the pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and sufficient white sauce tomoisten it; stir to it the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by tocool. Then make the mixture up into balls, egg and bread-crumb them, andfry a nice brown. They may be served on a border of mashed potatoes, with gravy or sauce in the centre. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the balls. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE TURN. --What is termed "turrling" with song-birds, is known, as regard fowls, as the "turn. " Its origin is the same in both cases, --over-feeing and want of exercise. Without a moment's warning, a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its perch, and unless assistance be at hand, speedily give up the ghost. The veins of the palate should be opened, and a few drops of mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one of ammonia, poured down its throat. I have seen ignorant keepers plunge a bird, stricken with the "turn, " into cold water; but I never saw it taken out again alive; and for a good reason: the sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the head, --of aggravating the disease indeed, instead of relieving it. 

HASHED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery). 

955. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint of water, 1onion, 2 or three small carrots, 1 blade of pounded mace, pepper andsalt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter andflour, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut off the best joints from the fowl, and the remainder makeinto gravy, by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of water, anonion sliced and fried of a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning, and herbs. Let these stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, strain the liquor, andthicken with a little flour and butter. Lay in the fowl, thoroughly warmit through, add the ketchup, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1-3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fowl, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 SKIN-DISEASE IN FOWLS. --Skin-disease is, nine times out of ten, caused by the feathers being swarmed by parasites. Poor feeding will induce this, even if cleanliness be observed; uncleanliness, however liberal the bill of fare, will be taken as an invitation by the little biting pests, and heartily responded to. Mix half a teaspoonful of hydro-oxalic acid with twelve teaspoonfuls of water, --apply to the itching parts with an old shaving-brush. 

 OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP. --Obstruction of the crop is occasioned by weakness or greediness. You may know when a bird is so afflicted by his crop being distended almost to bursting. Mowbray tells of a hen of his in this predicament; when the crop was opened, a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state of vegetation. The crop should be slit from the _bottom_ to the _top_ with a sharp pair of scissors, the contents taken out, and the slit sewed up again with line white thread. 

MINCED FOWL--an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery). 

956. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled eggs, salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 6tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. Of butter, two teaspoonfuls of flour, 1/2teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Cut out from the fowl all the white meat, and mince it finelywithout any skin or bone; put the bones, skin, and trimmings into astewpan with an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, andnearly a pint of water; let this stew for an hour, then strain theliquor. Chop the eggs small; mix them with the fowl; add salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, put in the gravy and remaining ingredients; let thewhole just boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Another way to make this is to mince the fowl, and warm it inwhite sauce or Béchamel. When dressed like this, 3 or 4 poached eggs maybe placed on the top: oysters, or chopped mushrooms, or balls of oysterforcemeat, may be laid round the dish. 

 THE MOULTING SEASON. --During the moulting season beginning properly at the end of September, the fowls will require a little extra attention. Keep them dry and warm, and feed them liberally on warm and satisfying food. If in any fowl the moult should seem protracted, examine it for broken feather-stumps still beaded in the skin: if you find any, extract them carefully with a pair of tweezers. If a fowl is hearty and strong, six weeks will see him out of his trouble; if he is weakly, or should take cold during the time, he will not thoroughly recover in less than three months. It is seldom or ever that hens will lay during the moult; while the cock, during the same period, will give so little of his consideration to the frivolities of love, that you may as well, nay, much better, keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers. A moulting chicken makes but a sorry dish. 

HASHED FOWL, Indian Fashion (an Entree). 

957. --INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 slicedonions, 1 apple, 2 oz. Of butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt totaste, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the onions into slices, mince the apple, and fry these inthe butter; add pounded mace, pepper, salt, curry-powder, vinegar, flour, and sugar in the above proportions; when the onion is brown, putit the gravy, which should be previously made from the bones andtrimmings of the fowls, and stew for 3/4 hour; add the fowl cut intonice-sized joints, let it warm through, and when quite tender, serve. The dish should be garnished with au edging of boiled rice. 

_Time_. --1 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE SCOUR OR DYSENTERY. --The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhoea, is induced variously. A sudden alteration in diet will cause it, as will a superabundance of green food. The best remedy is a piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale. If the disease has too tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this, give six drops of syrup of white poppies and six drops of castor-oil, mixed with a little oatmeal or ground rice. Restrict the bird's diet, for a few days, to dry food, --crushed beans or oats, stale bread-crumbs, &c. 

 FOWL SCOLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery). 

 958. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539. 

 _Mode_. --Strip off the skin from the fowl; cut the meat into thin slices, and warm them in about 1/2 pint, or rather more, of Béchamel, or white sauce. When quite hot, serve, and garnish the dish with rolled ham or bacon toasted. 

 _Time_. --1 minute to simmer the slices of fowl. 

 _Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM. ]

 THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM. --Since the introduction of the Bantam into Europe, it has ramified into many varieties, none of which are destitute of elegance, and some, indeed, remarkable for their beauty. All are, or ought to be, of small size, but lively and vigorous, exhibiting in their movements both grace and stateliness. The variety shown in the engraving is remarkable for the _tarsi_, or beams of the legs, being plumed to the toes, with stiff, long feathers, which brush the ground. Owing, possibly, to the little care taken to preserve this variety from admixture, it is now not frequently seen. Another variety is often red, with a black breast and single dentated comb. The _tarsi_ are smooth, and of a dusky blue. When this sort of Bantam is pure, it yields in courage and spirit to none, and is, in fact, a game-fowl in miniature, being as beautiful and graceful as it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, possessing all the qualifications just named, is also bred in the royal aviary at Windsor. 

AN INDIAN DISH OF FOWL (an Entree). 

959. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Divide the fowl into joints; slice and fry the onions in alittle butter, taking care not to burn them; sprinkle over the fowl alittle curry-powder and salt; fry these nicely, pile them high in thecentre of the dish, cover with the onion, and serve with a cut lemon ona plate. Care must be taken that the onions are not greasy: they shouldbe quite dry, but not burnt. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the fowl. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ during the winter month. 

[Illustration: SPECKLED HAMBURGS. ]

 THE SPECKLED HAMBURG. --Of the speckled, or spangled Hamburg which is a favourite breed with many persons, there are two varieties, --the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled. The general colour of the former is golden, or orange-yellow, each feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip, particularly remarkable on the hackles of the cock and the wing-coverts, and also on the darker feathers of the breast. The female is yellow, or orange-brown, the feathers in like manner being margined with black. The silver-speckled variety is distinguished by the ground-colour of the plumage being of a silver-white, with perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow, every leather being margined with a semi-lunar mark of glossy black. Both of these varieties are extremely beautiful, the hens laying freely. First-rate birds command a high price. 

FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree). 

960. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. Of butter, pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of poundedsugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowl into nice pieces; put the butter into a stew-pan;sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, previously sprinkling itwith pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in the flour, shake theingredients well round, then add the stock and peas, and stew till thelatter are tender, which will be in about 20 minutes; put in the poundedsugar, and serve, placing the chicken round, and the peas in the middleof the dish. When liked, mushrooms may be substituted for the peas. 

_Time_. --Altogether 40 minutes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 7d. 

_Seasonable_ from June to August. 

BOUDIN A LA REINE (an Entree). 

(M. Ude's Recipe. )

961. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of BéchamelNo. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls; cut itinto small dice of an equal size, and throw them into some goodBéchamel, made by recipe No. 367; season with salt and cayenne, and putthe mixture into a dish to cool. When this preparation is quite cold, cut it into 2 equal parts, which should be made into _boudins_ of a longshape, the size of the dish they are intended to be served on; roll themin flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and be careful that the ends arewell covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in thefrying-pan; fry them a nice colour, put them before the fire to drainthe greasy moisture from them, and serve with the remainder of theBéchamel poured round: this should be thinned with a little stock. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to fry the boudins. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entrée. 

[Illustration: SEBRIGHT BANTAMS. ]

 SIR JOHN SEBRIGHT'S BANTAMS. --Above all Bantams is placed, the celebrated and beautiful breed called Sir John Sebright's Silver Bantams. This breed, which Sir John brought to perfection after years of careful trials, is very small, with un-feathered legs, and a rose comb and short hackles. The plumage is gold or silver, spangled, every feather being of a golden orange, or of a silver white, with a glossy jet-black margin; the cocks have the tail folded like that of a hen, with the sickle feathers shortened straight, or nearly so, and broader than usual. The term _hen-cocks_ is, in consequence, often applied to them; but although the sickle feathers are thus modified, no bird possesses higher courage, or a more gallant carriage. The attitude of the cock is, indeed, singularly proud; and he is often seen to bear himself so haughtily, that his head, thrown back as if in disdain, nearly touches the two upper feathers--sickles they can scarcely be called--of his tail. Half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon, but birds of the pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense; indeed, some time ago, it was almost impossible to procure either a fowl or an egg. "The finest, " says the writer whom we have consulted as to this breed, "we have ever seen, were in Sir John's poultry-yard, adjacent to Turnham-Green Common, in the byroad leading to Acton. "

FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE. 

962. INGREDIENTS. --A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive. 

_Mode_. --Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, pilingthem high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by recipeNo. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves, water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs: these may be sliced inrings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece ofthe white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid fishmay be dressed à la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or supperdishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the momentof serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise be required, use 2 fowlsinstead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients. 

_Average cost_, with one fowl, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish. 

_Seasonable_ from April to September. 

[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH. ]

 BLACK SPANISH. --The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently, their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be hatched. "In purchasing Spanish, " says an authority, "blue legs, the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage, and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should be insisted on. " The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from the smallness of its body when compared with that of the Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table. Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb, face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any other variety. 

FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish). 

963. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of rice, 2 oz. Of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts ofstock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. Of coriander-seed, 1/4oz. Of cloves, 1/4 oz. Of allspice, 1/4 oz. Of mace, 1/4 oz. Ofcinnamon, 1/2 oz. Of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2hard-boiled eggs. 

_Mode_. --Well wash 1 lb. Of the best Patna rice, put it into afrying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until therice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into astewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughlyin a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with thefowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice, which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions intoslices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of anice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled, and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon adish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, andthe hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Beforetaking the rice out, remove the spices. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it. 

_Average cost_, 4s. 3d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: SULTANS. ]

 THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN. --This fowl is the size of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized, compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot. Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople; and they take their name from _sarai_, the Turkish word for sultan's palace, and _ta-ook_, the Turkish for fowl. They are thus called the "fowls of the sultan, " a name which has the twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by which they have been known in their own country, and of designating the country whence they come. Their habits are described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers; but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon satisfy themselves and walk away. 

POULET AUX CRESSONS. 

964. INGREDIENTS. --A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy. 

_Mode_. --Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that itis nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick themnicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over alittle salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these thefowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in atureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROAST FOWL, Stuffed. 

965. INGREDIENTS. --A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour. 

_Mode_. --Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, madeby recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl, dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it fornearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers, and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce. 

_Time_. --Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring. 

_Note_. --Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this isnow a very general mode of serving fowl. 

[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG. ]

 PENCILLED HAMBURG. --This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day layers. They are also known in different parts of the country, as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and, in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls. They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred in this country are greatly superior in size. 

GIBLET PIE. 

966. INGREDIENTS. --A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. Of rump-steak, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savouryherbs, plain crust. 

_Mode_. --Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, wholepepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint ofwater, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let themcool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a fewpieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces ofsteak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which shouldbe strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust, and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a pieceof paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

 THE BRENT GOOSE. --This is the smallest and most numerous species of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable. 

HASHED GOOSE. 

967. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper andsalt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls ofmushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferiorjoints, trimmings, &c. , put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice andfry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to thetrimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew thesegently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it withflour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion;add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; letthese get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, andserve with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --Altogether, rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 THE WILD GOOSE. --This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag" and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young, and familiarize. "The Gray-lag, " says Mr. Gould, "is known to Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia Minor. " It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance, and by the Romans was cherished accordingly. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

968. INGREDIENTS. --Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. Ofbread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Select a goose with a clean white skin, plumpbreast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old. Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, theflavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefullywash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving theskin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, andseparate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat witha rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, andhaving drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each, and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into thesmall of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through, and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, andmake a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump, in order to keep in the seasoning. 

[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE. ]

_Mode_. --Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, byrecipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmlyat both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, andthe other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this meansthe seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it wellbasted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Removethe skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-madeapple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, theonions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, themild seasoning is far superior. A ragoût, or pie, should be made of thegiblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to servethe goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled bycoming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint tocarve, a _large_ quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose, but sent in a tureen. 

_Time_. --A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2hour. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmasto Christmas. 

_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. Each. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. 

_Note_. --A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a fewgrains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes pouredinto the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by manypersons, considered an improvement. 

[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE. ]

 THE GOOSE. --This bird is pretty generally distributed over the face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose, " says Dr. Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between both; from the second week in June to the first in September. " It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas. We here give an engraving of the Emden goose. 

TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE. 

969. INGREDIENTS. --Goose, 3 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Geese are called green till they are about four months old, andshould not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same asin the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper andsalt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire forabout 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy, and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished withwater-cresses. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE. ]

 THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE. --Especial attention has been directed to this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed. Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the resemblance may be clearly traced. " The goose is also said to have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain, but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa. The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a well-known bird. 

ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded. 

970. INGREDIENTS. --A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt. 

_Mode_. --When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as apheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding andtrussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted, and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and letit froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen ofthe same, and one of well-made bread-sauce. 

_Time_. --Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Note_. --The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper, and removed about 10 minutes before serving. 

[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS. ]

 THE GUINEA-FOWL. --The bird takes its name from Guinea, in Africa, where it is found--wild, and in great abundance. It is gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl, but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out of season. 

LARK PIE (an Entree). 

971. INGREDIENTS. --A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonfulof minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt andpepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stockor water, puff-paste. 

_Mode_. --Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley, and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; rollthe larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with afew slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and seasonwith salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the aboveproportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake foran hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. A dozen. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season in November. 

ROAST LARKS. 

972. INGREDIENTS. --Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter. 

_Mode_. --These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, andmay be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when theyare trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle withbread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continuallywith fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until thebirds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarifiedbutter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks arealso very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and wouldtake about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season in November. 

_Note_. --Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them withegg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs. 

BROILED PIGEONS. 

973. INGREDIENTS. --Pigeons, 3 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefullypluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over withbutter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderatefire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with eithermushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, andserved with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiledfowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil. 

_Time_. --To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one, the same time. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 9d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from April to September, but in the greatest perfectionfrom midsummer to Michaelmas. 

 THE POUTER PIGEON. --This is a very favourite pigeon, and, without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat; his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little "swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate, if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse than intrust them with the care of their own eggs. 

ROAST PIGEONS. 

974. INGREDIENTS. --Pigeons, 3 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Trussing_. --Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept alittle, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon askilled. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, andcut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they shouldbe carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing. 

[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON. ]

_Mode_. --Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper andsalt, and put about 3/4 oz. Of butter into the body of each: this makesthem moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well thewhole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen ofparsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl, are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce. 

_Time_. --From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. To 9d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ from April to September; but in the greatest perfectionfrom Midsummer to Michaelmas. 

 THE PIGEON--The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the wild state it is still found in many parts of this island, making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees, or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they are most preferable for the table, and are called _squabs_; under six months they are denominated _squeakers_, and at six months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury, delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are esteemed to have the more delicate flesh. 

 THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT. --The first thing to be done towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables, brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor. The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin getting at the pigeons. 

 ASPECT OF THE PIGEON-HOUSE. --The front of the pigeon-house should have a southwest aspect, and, if a room be selected for the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the building for the passage of the pigeons, but which can be closed at convenience. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for the pigeons to perch upon, with some kind of defence against strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot. Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice, which will not only suck the eggs, but destroy the birds. The platform should be painted white, and renewed as the paint wears off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house. The boxes ought also to be similarly painted, and renewed when necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very well. 

 THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS. --As cleanliness in human habitations is of the first importance, so is it in the pigeon-house. There the want of it will soon render the place a nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and old, will be so covered with vermin and filth, that they will neither enjoy health nor comforts, whilst early mortality amongst them will be almost certain. In some cases, the pigeon-house is cleaned daily; but it should always be done, at any rate, once a week, and the floor covered with sifted gravel, frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of water, and having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore, they should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed. This serves them for a bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin. 

 BREEDING PIGEONS. --In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match a cock and hen, and shut them up together, or place them near to each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen pigeon; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is generally so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself to one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial. At the age of six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then begin to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the well-known tone of voice in the cock, just then acquired and commencing, are indications of their approaching union. Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed squabs, and are, at that age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house pigeon is said to breed monthly, when well supplied with food. At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost any healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine times in the year; whence it may readily be conceived how vast are the numbers that may be raised. 

[Illustration: CARRIER PIGEONS. ]

 THE CARRIER PIGEON. --Without doubt the carrier is entitled to rank first in the pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps, of the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl can be traced to so remote an antiquity. When Greece was in its glory, carrier pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the victors at the Olympian games. During the holy war, when Acre was besieged by King Richard, Saladin habitually corresponded with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons. A shaft from an English crossbow, however, happened to bring one of those feathered messengers to the ground, and the stratagem was discovered, the design of the Saracens revealed, and so turned against the designers, that Acre was in the hands of the Christians before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing. 

PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Recipe). 

975. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices ofham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. Of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust. 

_Mode_. --Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with itline the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and salt. Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and putinto the body of each rather more than 1/2 oz. Of butter; lay them onthe steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs, and half fill the dish with stock; place a border of puff paste roundthe edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament it in any way thatmay be preferred. Clean three of the feet, and place them in a hole madein the crust at the top: this shows what kind of pie it is. Glaze thecrust, --that is to say, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, --and bakeit in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/4 hour. When liked, a seasoningof pounded mace may be added. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour, or rather less. _Average cost_, 5s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS. ]

 TUMBLER PIGEONS. --The smaller the size of this variety, the greater its value. The head should be round and smooth, the neck thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit. Highly-bred birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight beyond that of any other pigeons; and it is in seeing these little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the fanciers take such delight. For four or five hours tumblers have been known to keep on the wing; and it is when they are almost lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those pantomimic feats which give them their name, and which are marked by a tumbling over-and-over process, which suggests the idea of their having suddenly become giddy, been deprived of their self-control, or overtaken by some calamity. This acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some to the absence of a proper power in the tail; but is nothing more than a natural habit, for which no adequate reason can be assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most beautiful; and the greater the variation of the colour in the flight and tail, the greater their value. 

[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS. ]

 THE RUNT PIGEON. --This is generally esteemed among the largest of the pigeon varieties, and being possessed of proportionate strength, with a strong propensity to exercise it, they keep the dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering over the weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well, however, and are valuable for the table. There is both the Leghorn and the Spanish Runt, variously plumaged; but when red, white, or black mottled, are most highly esteemed. One of the great advantages connected with the Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away from home. Being heavy birds, they find it difficult, when well fed, to mount even to a low housetop. Again, they require no loft, or special dwelling-place, but, if properly tended, will be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well, in a rabbit-hutch as any where. Their flavour is very good; and it is not an uncommon thing for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in weight. 

[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS. ]

 THE NUN PIGEON. --The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this variety, which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising from the back of the head, and which, on the whole, is an extremely pretty little bird. According to the colour of the head, it is called the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; and the larger the tuft at the back of his head, the handsomer the bird is esteemed, and proportionately valuable in the eyes of pigeon-fanciers. 

[Illustration: TRUMPETER PIGEONS. ]

 THE TRUMPETER PIGEON. --From the circumstance of this bird imitating the sound of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other pigeons, it has received its designation. It is of the middle size, having its legs and feet covered with feathers, and its plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white. It has a tuft springing from the root of its beak, and the larger this topknot is, the higher the estimation in which the breed is held. In their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others; and whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of themselves, we cannot say; but they are rather select in the choice of their company. If two of them are put in a pigeon-house with other doves, it will be found that they confine their association almost entirely to each other. As much as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of this kind. 

[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON. ]

 THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON. --Buffon enumerates upwards of thirty varieties of the pigeon, which he derives from one root, --viz. The stockdove, or common wild pigeon. All the varieties of colour and form which we witness, he attributes to human contrivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there exist essentially specific differences in these birds, which would appear to be attributable rather to the nature of the region, soil, and climate to which they are indigenous, than to the art and ingenuity of man. The stockdove, in its wild state, is still found in some parts of Britain, forming its nest in the holes of rocks, old towers, and in the hollows of trees; it never, however, like the ringdove, nestles in the branches. Multitudes of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, coming from their more northerly retreats, making their appearance about November, and retiring again in the spring. When forests of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country, these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to feed. 

STEWED PIGEONS. 

976. INGREDIENTS. --6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. Of butter, 2tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover thepigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroomketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers, addto these the parsley and butter, and put it into the insides of thebirds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them; add the stock, and stew gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish the pigeons, strainthe gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and portwine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. To 9d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from April to September. 

[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS. ]

 THE FANTAIL PIGEON. --This curious variety is inferior in point of size to most of the other varieties, and is characterized by having a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked legs and feet. It has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a turkey-cock; during which action, especially when paying court to it's mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock when moving about with his train expanded and in full display. This power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the male bird alone: the female possesses the same power to an equal extent, and otherwise resembles the male in every respect. It is not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or pigeon-house as most of the other kinds. 

[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS. ]

 THE JACOBIN PIGEON. --This variety, having the power to transmit to posterity a form precisely similar, with all its peculiar characters undiminished, is, among pigeon-fanciers, designated as of a pure or permanent race. It is distinguished by a remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast, forms a kind of hood, not unlike that worn by a monk. From this circumstance, it has obtained its Gallic name of _nonnain capuchin_. In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It is a very productive species, and, having its flight considerably impeded by the size and form of its hooded frill, keeps much at home, and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where pigeons are confined. 

[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS. ]

 THE TURBIT PIGEON. --This variety bears a strong resemblance to the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of its neck, occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and standing straight out. The species is classed in accordance with the colour of the shoulders, similarly as the Nuns are by the colour of their heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a full frill, short bill, and small round head. In Germany it is called the ruffle pigeon, in allusion to the feathers on its breast; and it has rarely any feathers on its feet. There is a peculiarity connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers it in the estimation of fanciers: it seldom rears more than one at a time, which, therefore, marks it as a bird rather for amusement than profit. 

[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS. ]

 THE BARB PIGEON. --The name of this variety is a contraction of Barbary, from which country it originally comes. It is both prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind most esteemed is that of one uniform colour, that of blue-black being preferable to any other. Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed the most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike the Carrier pigeon, and, at a small distance, might easily be mistaken for the latter. It has a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy, pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic, however, and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years old. This peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young birds. 

[Illustration: BLUE ROCK-PIGEON. ]

 THE ROCK PIGEON. --This variety, in its wild state, is found upon the rocky parts of the west of Scotland, and the bold shores of the Western Isles, more abundant than in any other parts of the British islands. As the shores of the mainland are exposed to the muds of the Atlantic, and the comparatively small islands are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds exposed to the west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time, and thus the birds easily find a supply of food. The numbers which there congregate are often very great, and the din of their united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming. The love of home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in the rock-pigeon or _biset_, as it is called by the French. Flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the feeding-grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes round, each one keeps to its own party. 

 [Illustration: OWL PIGEONS. ]

 THE OWL PIGEON. --This pigeon does not seem to be so well known as it formerly was, if we may judge from the fact that few modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast, it having been compared by some to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a full-blown white rose. In size, it is not quite so large a pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be preferred in France, above other varieties, as a bird to rear and kill for the table. In England it is very far from being common; indeed, we have applied to several keepers of pigeons, who have fancied themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird, and they have been able to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir, our artist, however, has made his portrait from the life. 

BOILED RABBIT. 

[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT. ]

977. INGREDIENTS. --Rabbit; water. 

_Mode_. --For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, asthat denotes they are young: should these be blunt and rugged, the earsdry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and skinning it, washit well in cold water, and let it soak for about 1/4 hour in warm water, to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten itthere by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbitinto sufficient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently untiltender, which will be in from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to its size andage. Dish it, and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liversauce, or parsley-and-butter; the former is, however, generallypreferred to any of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce ispreferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced veryfinely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce. 

_Time_. --A very young rabbit, 1/2 hour; a large one, 3/4 hour; an oldone, 1 hour or longer. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

 THE RABBIT. --Though this animal is an inhabitant of most temperate climates, it does not reach so far north as the hare. The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. Its flesh is, by some, considered to have a higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit, although it is neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state; but it is not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made. 

CURRIED RABBIT. 

978. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stockNo. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. Of rice. 

_Mode_. --Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatlyinto joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions, and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow them toblacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling; mix the currypowder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock, withthe mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather more than 1/2 hour;squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a dish, with anedging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is studied, water may besubstituted for the stock; in this case, the meat and onions must bevery nicely browned. A little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewedwith the curry will be found a great improvement. 

_Time_. --Altogether 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

[Illustration: WILD RABBITS. ]

 THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT. --Warrens, or inclosures, are frequently made in favourable localities, and some of them are so large as to comprise 2, 000 acres. The common wild rabbit is of a grey colour, and is esteemed the best for the purposes of food. Its skin is valuable as an article of commerce, being used for the making of hats. Another variety of the rabbit, however, called the "silver-grey, " has been lately introduced to this country, and is still more valuable. Its colour is a black ground, thickly interspersed with grey hairs; and its powers as a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be enormous, especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity of a rabbit-warren. 

FRIED RABBIT. 

979. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, flour, dripping, 1 oz. Of butter, 1teaspoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well; make thedripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nicebrown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, andketchup; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as quicklyas possible. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

_Note_. --The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled withbread crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make agravy in the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, thepieces of rabbit. 

 VARIETIES IN RABBITS. --Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a furry animal, that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground; that it has its varieties as well as other animals, and that it is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its varieties, the short-legged, with width and substance of loin, is the most hardy, and fattens the most expeditiously. It has, besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject to defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is a very large species of the hare-colour, having much bone, length and depth of carcase, large and long ears, with full eyes, resembling those of the hare: it might readily be taken for a hybrid or mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and more savoury than that of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a good dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter and more delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival the turkey. Rabbits are divided into four kinds, distinguished as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener, as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community, and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell _upon_ the earth and have "the world at their will, " and his fur is the most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground, where he usually breeds in great numbers, and from which he frequently drives away the hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit, that, tinker like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat on his back if he was more settled in his habits, and remained more at home. The sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to some extent in the important branch of hat-making. 

RABBIT A LA MINUTE. 

980. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. Of butter, salt and pepper totaste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls ofminced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it intojoints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; addsalt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts done;then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10 minutes: itwill then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed in the samemanner. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 35 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

RABBIT PIE. 

981. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepperto taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, afew forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff crust. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove thebreastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, forcemeatballs, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer withpepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in about 1/2 pint ofwater, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a piece of paperover it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at the top, by meansof the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good gravy, which maybe made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and 2 or 3shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

Note. --The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with theforcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked. 

 FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT. --The fruitfulness of this animal has been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit, however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind; for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is, by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate them. 

RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE. 

982. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2oz. Of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine. 

_Mode_. --Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flourand butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts, till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, alittle water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream. Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut intoneat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf, and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give oneboil, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

 THE RABBIT-HOUSE. --Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to report, kept from 1, 600 to 2, 000 breeding does. These large establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated. Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or windows. 

ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT. 

983. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper, sausage-meat. 

[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT. ]

_Mode_. --Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, linethe inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, andto which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside, skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints ofthe shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure themby means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it downto a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before itis done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nicebrown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy andred-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner asabove; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting. 

_Time_. --A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

 THE HUTCH. --Hutches are generally placed one above another to the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room, the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for breeding should have two rooms, --a feeding and a bed-room. Those are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks, which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for cleaning these houses. 

STEWED RABBIT. 

984. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 smallteaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening ofbutter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, addthe onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficientwater to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in afew forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give oneboil, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 6d each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT. ]

 FANCY RABBITS. --The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and, lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond the chin. 

 The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back, independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as finer ones. 

 The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities. 

 "The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek, slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them should remain in front: they should match exactly in their descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible. "

 The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year, he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all. As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder says:--

 "The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour, and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is, tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects. Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut. '

 "But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle; the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout; while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or collar hanging round the neck. "

 "Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched, rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to reach almost to the ground. "

STEWED RABBIT, Larded. 

985. INGREDIENTS. --1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepperto taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them withBlips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with thebroth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently untilthe rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter andflour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, andserve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to February. 

[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT. ]

 THE HARE-RABBIT. --There has been lately introduced to French tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit, " partaking of the nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes; although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game, " as by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen. 

[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT. ]

 THE ANGORA RABBIT. --This is one of the handsomest of all rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long, waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks. "

[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS. ]

 THE HIMALAYA RABBIT. --Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow, which, above the altitude of from 13, 000 to 16, 000 feet, perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world. It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will, doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal, Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification, mining, and covered roads. 

BOILED TURKEY. 

986. INGREDIENTS. --Turkey; forcemeat No. 417. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, onaccount of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate sizeshould be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode ofcooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluckthe bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, washit inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off thehead and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off thelegs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breastwith forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing andthe middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the oppositeside; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and ascompact as possible. 

[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY. ]

_Mode_. --Put the turkey into sufficient _hot_ water to cover it; let itcome to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attendedto, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but itshould be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently forabout 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve witheither white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter, a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and whenoyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oysterforcemeat. 

_Time_. --A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. To 7s. 6d. Each, but more expensive atChristmas, on account of the great demand. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from December to February. 

 THE TURKEY. --The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the French name of the bird, _dindon_, proves its origin; that the form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from the information which has been gained at considerable trouble, that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America, where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods: they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10 out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out of the same number arrive at maturity. 

CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery). 

987. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. Of meatallow 2 oz. Of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 tablespoonfulof flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassée or hash, answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or baconin the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, wellseasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with thebutter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the buttermust be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince. )When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool, and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg andbread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces ofparsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin. 

_Time_. --8 minutes to fry the croquettes. 

_Seasonable_ from December to February. 

 THE WILD TURKEY. --In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious, going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops, apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great numbers. 

FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery). 

988. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a stripof lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt totaste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg. 

_Mode_. --Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and putthe bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs, onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy, and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream andthe yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, takeout the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnishthe fricassée with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cutinto small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must beboiled first. 

_Time_. --1 hour to make the gravy. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ from December to February. 

 THE TURKEY. --This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks, Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground, scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in the reign of Henry VIII. , was introduced into England. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, " it began about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts:--

 "Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest; Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear, As then in the country is counted good cheer. "

 The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its flesh is much esteemed. 

 THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY. --Among themselves, turkeys are extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading forth her young to collect their food, though so large and apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her young. 

HASHED TURKEY. 

989. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper andsalt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroomketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve forthe hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with anonion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, andwater in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain thegravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and portwine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is anystuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour ofthe gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets oftoasted bread. 

_Time_. --1 hour to make the gravy. 

_Seasonable_ from December to February. 

 HUNTING TURKEYS. --Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time, continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue, till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock them down one after the other. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

990. INGREDIENTS. --Turkey; forcemeat No. 417. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs andblack legs, in which case they are young; if the spurs are long, and thelegs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long killed, theeyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, the contrarywill be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many personsconsidered superior to those of an immense growth, as they are, generally speaking, much more tender. They should never be dressed thesame day they are killed; but, in cold weather, should hang at least 8days; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found sufficient. Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe itthoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve the liver and gizzard, and beparticular not to break the gall-bag, as no washing will remove thebitter taste it imparts where it once touches. Wash it _inside_ well, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth; the _outside_ merely requiresnicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut off the neck close to theback, but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over; break the leg-boneclose below the knee, draw out the strings from the thighs, and flattenthe breastbone to make it look plump. Have ready a forcemeat made byrecipe No. 417; fill the breast with this, and, if a trussing-needle isused, sew the neck over to the back; if a needle is not at hand, askewer will answer the purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion andthigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side, and pressthe legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones, andput the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Pass astring across the back of the bird, catch it over the points of theskewer, tie it in the centre of the back, and be particular that theturkey is very firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished witha needle and twine than with skewers. 

[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY. ]

_Mode_. --Fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird, put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance _at first_(afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of thetime it is cooking. About 1/4 hour before serving, remove the paper, dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into thebasting-ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When of anice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown gravy andone of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a favourite addition to roastturkey; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very much to theflavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat balls should beplaced round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be stuffed withsausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is, by manypersons, much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish. --Seecoloured plate, A1. 

_Time_. --Small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs. , 2hours; large turkey, 2-1/2 hours, or longer. 

_Average cost_, from 10s. To 12s. , but expensive at Christmas, onaccount of the great demand. 

_Sufficient_. --A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from December to February. 

 ENGLISH TURKEYS. --These are reared in great numbers in Suffolk, Norfolk, and several other counties, whence they were wont to be driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge. There are three varieties of the turkey in this country, --the black, the white, and the speckled, or copper-coloured. The black approaches nearest to the original stock, and is esteemed the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing, and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age, however, and is then good for little but stewing. 

ROAST TURKEY POULTS. 

991. INGREDIENTS. --Turkey poult; butter. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose a plump bird, and truss it in thefollowing manner:--After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, andsinged, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing; turn the legsat the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as awoodcock should be trussed, _and do not stuff it_. 

_Mode_. --Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at firstplace a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too muchcolour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly with flour, and baste well; when nicely frothed, send it to table immediately, witha little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at hand, a fewwater-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish, or it may belarded. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 7s. To 8s. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --In full season from June to October. 

 THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY. --Human ingenuity subjects almost every material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one. The American Indians convert then into an elegant clothing, and, by twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, work it like matting. This fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of the tail; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly constructed into a parasol by the French. 

TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT. 

(_Miss Acton's Recipe_. )

992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and outwith a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut throughthe skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from thefowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from thelower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of thebreastbone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the socket of thethigh; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take theend of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from itdown to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knifecarefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cutround the next bone, keeping; the edge of the knife close to it, untilthe whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in thesame manner; then detach the flesh from the back--and breast-bonesufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings;proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not topierce the skin of the second joint: it is usual to leave the pinionsunboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl whenit is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cutaway, the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided, and thebreastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the workprogresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl, until itis completely inside out). After the one remaining bone is removed, drawthe wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl rightside outwards. 

993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it requires avery large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the logs andwings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense ofthis. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled, or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned andforced; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst. 

ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL. (_Miss Acton's Recipe_. )

994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise theflesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, untilthe sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practicehas been gained, it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints beforeproceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the wholeof the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire:only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. Thebird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, byfilling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the liversof two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tonguefreed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thinslices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which willgive a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then besewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn insidethe body, and the bird being first flattened on a table, may be coveredwith sausage-meat, and the various other ingredients we have named, soplaced that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightlyrolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape, wrapped in athin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and dressed asfollows:--Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size; addall the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, twobay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, andany trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand; cover thewhole with good veal broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it verysoftly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool inthe liquor in which it was stewed; and after it is lifted out, boil downthe gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off thefat, and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round thefowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead ofbeing rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sentto table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may bepreferred; or it may be left until the following day, and servedgarnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear andwell-flavoured: the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down, added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence. 

TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES. 

995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; holdthis with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the recipeabove. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require anyinstructions. 

TO DRESS WHEATEARS. 

996. INGREDIENTS. --Wheatears; fresh butter. 

_Mode_. --After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss themlike larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well withfresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish them onfried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from July to October. 

 THE WHEATEAR. --The wheatear is an annual visitor of England: it arrives about the middle of March and leaves in September. The females come about a fortnight before the males, and continue to arrive till the middle of May. They are in season from July to October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in the neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of Sussex. They are taken by means of snares and nets, and numbers of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants. The larger ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about Eastbourne, the existence of a species of fly which forms their favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the adjacent hills. 

[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG. ]

 997. THE GUINEA-PIG. --This common hutch-companion of the rabbit, although originally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in England and other European countries. Were it not that they suffer cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring, their numbers would soon become overwhelming. Rats, however, it is said, carefully avoid them; and for this reason they are frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for their young stock against those troublesome vermin. The lower tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the guinea-pig: here, as he runs loose, he will devour the waste food of his more admired companion. Home naturalists assert that the guinea-pig will breed at two months old, the litter varying from four to twelve at a time. It is varied in colour, --white, fawn, and black, and a mixture of the three colours, forming a tortoiseshell, which is the more generally admired hue. Occasionally, the white ones have red eyes, like those of the ferret and the white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is decidedly unfit for food; they have been tasted, however, we presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of science, or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new pleasure for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats from intruding within the rabbit-hutch, they are as useless as they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind quarters is denied them; and were it not for this fact, and also for their difference in colour, the Shaksperean locution, "a rat without a tail, " would designate them very properly. 

[Illustration: THE CYGNET. ]

 998. THE CYGNET. --The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly much esteemed; but it has "fallen from its high estate, " and is now rarely seen upon the table. We are not sure that it is not still fattened in Norwich for the corporation of that place. Persons who have property on the river there, take the young birds, and send them to some one who is employed by the corporation, to be fed; and for this trouble he is paid, or was wont to be paid, about half a guinea a bird. It is as the future bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly admired; when it has become old enough to grace the waters, then it is that all admire her, when she with "Archèd neck, Between her white wings mantling, proudly rows Her state with oary feet. "

POULTRY CARVING. 

ROAST DUCK. 

[Illustration: ROAST DUCK. ]

999. No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving asdo game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with theanatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactlythe proper point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of acarver's powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour ofthose in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dishmay eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of theright or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assistthose who are unacquainted with the "gentle art of carving, " and alsothose who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing therules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked Illustrations ofeach dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of theuninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like afowl, viz. , by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side, asdescribed at No. 1000; but in cases where the duckling is very small, itwill be as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they will notthen form too large a portion for a single serving. After the legs andwings are disposed of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved inthe same manner as a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced, as ducklings are tender, and the joints are easily broken by a littlegentle forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is alarge bird, the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose, that is, by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated bythe lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close tothe wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone. Ifmore should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of thebreast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as isdescribed in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked, that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of afowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, thethigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone thanin a chicken: this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carvershould ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; andin order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shownby the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the "apron, " and the spooninserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, when acouple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other withoutstuffing. ) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that "thewing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are severally the bestportions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, intrussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckboneare here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should bewhen cut off. 

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK. ]

BOILED FOWL. 

[Illustration: BOILED FOWL. ]

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL. ]

1000. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultryfamily to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard occupant, useless for egg-laying purposes, has, by some unlucky mischance, beenintroduced info the kitchen as a "fine young chicken. " Skill, however, and the application of a small amount of strength, combined with a finekeeping of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. Fixing thefork firmly in the breast, let the knife be sharply passed along theline shown from 1 to 2; then cut downwards from that line to fig. 3; andthe wing, it will be found, can be easily withdrawn. The shape of thewing should be like the accompanying engraving. Let the fork be placedinside the leg, which should be gently forced away from the body of thefowl; and the joint, being thus discovered, the carver can readily cutthrough it, and the leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, itshould be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut. Thelegs and wings on either side having been taken off, the carver shoulddraw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line 4 to 5: bythis means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought, which, being lifted up and pressed backward, will immediately come off. Thecollar--or neck-bones are the next to consider: these lie on each sideof the merrythought, close under the upper part of the wings; and, inorder to free these from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knifeat their broad end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone, until the shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off. There will now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast canbe, without difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through thelatter, which will offer little impediment. The side-bones are now to betaken off; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turnedfrom the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the topof the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the end ofthe back completely through the bone. If the knife is now turned in theopposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from thevertebra. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should be pressedfirmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should be employedin raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork, and thusthe back will be dislocated about its middle. The wings, breast, andmerrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl, and are usuallyserved to the ladies of the company, to whom legs, except as a matter ofparamount necessity, should not be given. Byron gave it as one reasonwhy he did not like dining with ladies, that they always had the wingsof the fowls, which he himself preferred. We heard a gentleman who, whenhe might have had a wing, declare his partiality for a leg, saying thathe had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time, that he had at lastcome to like them better than the other more prized parts. If the fowlis, capon-like, very large, slices maybe carved from its breast in thesame manner as from a turkey's. 

ROAST FOWL. 

[Illustration: ROAST FOWL. ]

1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut up afowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless, indeed, alarge family party is assembled, and there are a number of "littlemouths" to be filled, or some other such circumstances prevail. A roastfowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000; viz. , bycutting along the line from. 1 to 2, and then round the leg between itand the wing. The markings and detached pieces, as shown in theengravings under the heading of "Boiled Fowl, " supersede the necessityof our lengthily again describing the operation. It may be added, thatthe liver, being considered a delicacy, should be divided, and one halfserved with each wing. In the case of a fowl being shifted, it will beproper to give each guest a portion, unless it be not agreeable to someone of the party. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE. ]

[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE. ]

1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal ofhappiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a largeparty to serve, and the slices off the breast should not suffice tosatisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites, produced, may be, by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas and Christmas. Thebeginning of the task, however, is not in any way difficult. Evenly-cutslices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast inthe direction of the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice has beencut, a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron, passing it round the line, as indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: here thestuffing is located, and some of this should be served on each plate, unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of someone guest. If the carver manages cleverly, he will be able to cut a verylarge number of fine slices off the breast, and the more so if hecommences close down by the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridgeof the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken from the breast beingcarved, the wings should be cut off; and the same process as describedin carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this instance, only moredexterity and greater force will most probably be required: the shape ofthe leg, when disengaged from the body of the goose, should be like thatshown in the accompanying engraving. It will be necessary, perhaps, intaking off the leg, to turn the goose on its side, and then, pressingdown the small end of the leg, the knife should be passed under it fromthe top quite down to the joint; the leg being now turned back by thefork, the knife must cut through the joint, loosening the thigh-bonefrom its socket. The merrythought, which in a goose is not so large asmight be expected, is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl--bypassing the knife under it, and pressing it backwards towards the neck. The neck-bones, of which we give a cut, are freed by the same process asare those of a fowl; and the same may be said of all the other parts ofthis bird. The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed; all parts, however, are good, and full of juicy flavour. 

PIGEON. 

[Illustration: PIGEON. ]

1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon: theknife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from 1 to2, entirely through the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal andsimilar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a smallwing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving twoguests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on thebreast to send to the third guest. 

RABBITS. 

[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT. ]

1004. In carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each side ofthe backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by the dottedline 3 to 4: thus the rabbit will be in three parts. Now let the back bedivided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from 1 to 2;then let the leg be taken off, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and theshoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our opinion, is the bestplan to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes which arepreferred by some. 

[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT. ]

A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant tobe boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, as will be seen by thecut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, andthe legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner asthose of the boiled animal. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY. ]

1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner, with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmasdinner without its turkey; and we can hardly imagine an object ofgreater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familiascarving, at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity, his ownfat turkey, and carving it well. The only art consists, as in thecarving of a goose, in getting from the breast as many fine slices aspossible; and all must have remarked the very great difference in thelarge number of people whom a good carver will find slices for, and thecomparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we havestated in both the carving of a duck and goose, the carver shouldcommence cutting slices close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceedupwards towards the ridge of the breastbone: this is not the usual plan, but, in practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only partwhich is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cutoff and eaten at table: they are usually removed to the kitchen, wherethey are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seemsto have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table, --we meandevilled: served in this way, they are especially liked and relished. 

A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted. 

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXII. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME. 

1006. THE COMMON LAW OF ENGLAND has a maxim, that goods, in which noperson can claim any property, belong, by his or her prerogative, to theking or queen. Accordingly, those animals, those _ferae naturae_, whichcome under the denomination of game, are, in our laws, styled his or hermajesty's, and may therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by thesovereign to another; in consequence of which another may prescribe topossess the same within a certain precinct or lordship. From thiscircumstance arose the right of lords of manors or others to the gamewithin their respective liberties; and to protect these species ofanimals, the game laws were originated, and still remain in force. Thereare innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties on persons whomay illegally kill game, and some of them are very severe; but theycannot be said to answer their end, nor can it be expected that theyever will, whilst there are so many persons of great wealth who have nototherwise the means of procuring game, except by purchase, and who willhave it. These must necessarily encourage poaching, which, to a verylarge extent, must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to theirintended effects upon the rustic population. 

1007. THE OBJECT OF THESE LAWS, however, is not wholly confined to therestraining of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified or privilegedpersons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hoursallowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise till one hourafter sunset; whilst the time of killing certain species is alsorestricted to certain seasons. For example, the season forbustard-shooting is from December 1 to March 1; for grouse, or redgrouse, from August 12 to December 10; heath-fowl, or black-game, fromAugust 20 to December 20; partridges from September 1 to February 12;pheasants from October 1 to February 1; widgeons, wild ducks, wildgeese, wild fowls, at any time but in June, July, August, and September. Hares may be killed at any time of the year, under certain restrictionsdefined by an act of parliament of the 10th of George III. 

1008. THE EXERCISE OR DIVERSION OF PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS OF GAMEis called hunting, which, to this day, is followed in the field and theforest, with gun and greyhound. Birds, on the contrary, are not hunted, but shot in the air, or taken with nets and other devices, which iscalled fowling; or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey, which iscalled hawking, a species of sport now fallen almost entirely intodesuetude in England, although, in some parts, showing signs of beingrevived. 

1009. IN PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS, such as deer, boars, and hares, properly termed hunting, mankind were, from the earliest ages, engaged. It was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human supportbefore the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is anemployment, however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as acertain fearlessness of character, combined with the power ofconsiderable physical endurance. Without these, success could not bevery great; but, at best, the occupation is usually accompanied withrude and turbulent habits; and, when combined with these, it constituteswhat is termed the savage state of man. As culture advances, and as thesoil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenanceof the tamer or more domesticated animals, the range of the huntsman isproportionably limited; so that when a country has attained to a highstate of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement ofthe opulent. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhatdifferent; for these continue to supply the wants of civilization withone of its most valuable materials of commerce. 

1010. THE THEMES WHICH FORM THE MINSTRELSY OF THE EARLIEST AGES, eitherrelate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field. Even the sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunterbefore the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, became a skilful bow-man; and that David, when yet young, was not afraidto join in combat with the lion or the bear. The Greek mythology teemswith hunting exploits. Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, theErymanthean boar, and the hydra of Lerna; Diana descends to the earth, and pursues the stag; whilst Aesculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses, andAchilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, sage as he was, advises young men to apply themselves early to it; and Plato finds in itsomething divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for thepath of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardentvotaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and theancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded their shores. 

1011. ALTHOUGH THE ANCIENT BRITONS FOLLOWED HUNTING, however, they didnot confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They bred cattle andtilled the ground, and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary stateof a pastoral and agricultural life; but, in every social change, thesports of the field maintained their place. After the expulsion of theDanes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, thesewere still followed: even Edward the Confessor, who would join in noother secular amusements, took the greatest delight, says William ofMalmesbury, "to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, and tocheer them with his voice. "

1012. NOR WAS EDWARD the only English sovereign who delighted in thepleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons whosucceeded him, were passionately fond of the sport, and greatlycircumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to thekilling of game. The privilege of hunting in the royal forests wasconfined to the king and his favourites; and in order that theseumbrageous retreats might be made more extensive, whole villages weredepopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and every meansadopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space, in accordancewith the royal pleasure, for the beasts of the chase. King John waslikewise especially attached to the sports of the field; whilst EdwardIII. Was so enamoured of the exercise, that even during his absence atthe wars in France, he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and asmany hare-hounds, and every day amused himself either with hunting orhawking. Great in wisdom as the Scotch Solomon, James I. , conceitedhimself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting, hawking, and shooting. Yea, it is oven asserted that his precious timewas divided between hunting, the bottle, and his standish: to the firsthe gave his fair weather, to the second his dull, and to the third hiscloudy. From his days down to the present, the sports of the field havecontinued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promotion ofhealth, but for helping to form that manliness of character which entersso largely into the composition of the sons of the British soil. That itlargely helps to do this there can be no doubt. The late duke ofGrafton, when hunting, was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch. Ayoung curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, "Lie still, mylord!" leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want offeeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke; but not so. On his being helped up by his attendant, he said, "That man shall havethe first good living that falls to my disposal: had he stopped to havegiven me his sympathy, I never would have given him anything. " Such wasthe manly sentiment of the duke, who delighted in the exemplification ofa spirit similarly ardent as his own in the sport, and above thebaseness of an assumed sorrow. 

1013. THAT HUNTING HAS IN MANY INSTANCES BEEN CARRIED TO AN EXCESS iswell known, and the match given by the Prince Esterhazy, regent ofHungary, on the signing of the treaty of peace with France, is not theleast extraordinary upon record. On that occasion, there were killed 160deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares, and 80 foxes: this was the achievementof one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear, it isgreatly inferior to that made by the contemporary king of Naples on ahunting expedition. That sovereign had a larger extent of ground at hiscommand, and a longer period for the exercise of his talents;consequently, his sport, if it can so be called, was proportionablygreater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria, Bohemia, and Moravia; when he killed 5 bears, 1, 820 boars, 1, 950 deer, 1, 145 does, 1, 625 roebucks, 11, 121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers, 16, 354 hares, and 354 foxes. In birds, during the same expedition, hekilled 15, 350 pheasants and 12, 335 partridges. Such an amount ofdestruction can hardly be called sport; it resembles more theindiscriminate slaughter of a battle-field, where the scientific enginesof civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages. 

1014. DEER AND HARES may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals nowhunted in Britain for the table; and even those are not followed withthe same ardour as they were wont to be. Still, there is no country inthe world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such anextent as in Great Britain, and where the pleasures of the chase are sowell understood, and conducted on such purely scientific principles. TheFox, of all "the beasts of the field, " is now considered to afford thebest sport. For this, it is infinitely superior to the stag; for thereal sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for andfound like other game which are pursued with hounds. In the case offinding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured, in this manner, great sport is frequently obtained; but this is now rarely to be metwith in Britain. In reference to hare-hunting, it is much followed inmany parts of this and the sister island; but, by the true foxhunter, itis considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and old men. Although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase, however, it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding whichthe other requires. 

1015. THE ART OF TAKING OR KILLING BIRDS is called "fowling, " and iseither practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or fora livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practisedas an amusement, it principally consists of killing them with a lightfirearm called a "fowling-piece, " and the sport is secured to those whopursue it by the game laws. The other means by which birds are taken, consist in imitating their voices, or leading them, by other artifices, into situations where they become entrapped by nets, birdlime, orotherwise. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe or call is themost common means employed; and this is done during the months ofSeptember and October. We will here briefly give a description of the_modus operandi_ pursued in this sport. A thin wood is usually the spotchosen, and, under a tree at a little distance from the others, a cabinis erected, and there are only such branches left on the tree as arenecessary for the placing of the birdlime, and which are covered withit. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches, alsocovered with birdlime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, thebirdcatcher places himself in the cabin, and, at sunrise and sunset, imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance. Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, immediately differentkinds of birds will flock together at the cry of their common enemy, when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground, theirwings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact withthe birdlime. The cries of those which are thus situated now attractothers, and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time. Ifowls were themselves desired to be taken, it is only during the nightthat this can be done, by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse. Larks, other birds, and water-fowl, are sometimes taken by nets; but todescribe fully the manner in which this is done, would here occupy toomuch space. 

1016. FEATHERED GAME HAVE FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL given gratification tothe palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey, and some otherspecies, Moses permitted his people to eat them; and the Egyptians madeofferings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancientGreeks commenced their repasts with little roasted birds; and featheredgame, amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed, several of the ancient _gourmands_ of the "imperial city" were so fondof game, that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes andpheasants. "Some modern nations, the French among others, " says MonsieurSoyer, "formerly ate the heron, crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, andbittern. The first three especially were highly esteemed; andLaillevant, cook of Charles VII. , teaches us how to prepare thesemeagre, tough birds. Belon says, that in spite of its revolting tastewhen unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however, among the delicioustreats of the French. This writer also asserts, that a falcon or avulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating; and that if oneof these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, thefalconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron a royal viand. "

1017. THE HERON WAS HUNTED BY THE HAWK, and the sport of hawking isusually placed at the head of those amusements that can only bepractised in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from itsbeing a pastime to generally followed by the nobility, not in GreatBritain only, but likewise on the continent. In former times, persons ofhigh rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks:the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one countryto another, and sometimes even took them to battle with them, and wouldnot part with them when taken prisoners, even to obtain their ownliberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ensigns of nobility, and noaction was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than that ofgiving up his hawk. We have already alluded to the hunting propensitiesof our own Edward III. , and we may also allude to his being equallyaddicted to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invadedFrance, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had chargeof his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he eitherhunted, or went to the river for the purpose of hawking. In the greatand powerful, the pursuit of game as a sport is allowable, but in thosewho have to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow, it is to becondemned. In Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy" we find a humorous story, told by Poggius, the Florentine, who reprobates this folly in suchpersons. It is this. A physician of Milan, that cured madmen, had a pitof water in his house, in which he kept his patients, some up to theknees, some to the girdle, some to the chin, _pro modo insaniae_, asthey were more or less affected. One of them by chance, that was wellrecovered, stood in the door, and seeing a gallant pass by with a hawkon his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels after him, would needs knowto what use all this preparation served. He made answer, To kill certainfowl. The patient demanded again, what his fowl might be worth which hekilled in a year? He replied, Five or ten crowns; and when he urged himfurther, what his dogs, horse, and hawks stood him in, he told him fourhundred crowns. With that the patient bade him begone, as he loved hislife and welfare; "for if our master come and find thee here, he willput thee in the pit, amongst the madmen, up to the chin. " Thus reprovingthe madness of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports, to the neglect of their business and necessary affairs. 

1018. AS THE INEVITABLE RESULT OF SOCIAL PROGRESS is, at least to limit, if not entirely to suppress, such sports as we have here been treatingof, much of the romance of country life has passed away. This is moreespecially the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middleof the fourth century, although, lately, some attempts have been rathersuccessfully made to institute a revival of the "gentle art" of hawking. Julius Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find, the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and the art of teachingone species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation ofthese functionaries has now, however, all but ceased. New and noblerefforts characterize the aims of mankind in the development of theircivilization, and the sports of the field have, to a large extent, beensuperseded by other exercises, it may be less healthful andinvigorating, but certainly more elegant, intellectual, and humanizing. 

[Illustration]

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

ROAST BLACK-COCK. 

1019. INGREDIENTS. --Black-cock, butter, toast. 

[Illustration: ROAST BLACK-COCK. ]

_Mode_. --Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough andtasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insidesand outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut offthe heads, and truss them, the same as a roast fowl, cutting off thetoes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Trussing them with the head on, as shown in the engraving, is still practised by many cooks, but theformer method is now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire, well baste them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, anda good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover thebreast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. Theyshould be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments aswith the plainly-roasted birds. 

_Time_. --45 to 50 minutes. 

_Average cost_, from 5s. To 6s. The brace; but seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --2 or 3 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of August to the end of December. 

[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK. ]

 THE BLACK-COCK, HEATH-COCK, MOOR-FOWL, OR HEATH-POULT. --This bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds, and the hen about two. It is at present confined to the more northern parts of Britain, culture and extending population having united in driving it into more desolate regions, except, perhaps, in a few of the more wild and less-frequented portions of England. It may still be found in the New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among the hills of Somersetshire, contiguous to the latter. It may also be found in Staffordshire, in North Wales, and again in the north of England; but nowhere so plentiful as in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are about half-grown, when the black feathers begin to appear, first about the sides and breast. Their food consists of the tops of birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in point of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into London, where they are vended in the shops; but the flavour of their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird. 

HASHED WILD DUCK. 

1020. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of goodbrown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or Sevilleorange-juice. 

_Mode_. --Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them into astewpan, with all the above ingredients; let them get gradually hot bythe side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents; when on thepoint of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toastedbread. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK. 

1021. INGREDIENTS. --2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1glass of port wine, 1 oz. Of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding daywill answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs, wings, and breasts until wanted; put the trimmings into a stewpan withthe shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about 1/2 hour, andstrain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge ina little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; give it oneboil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; layin the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm through, but donot allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The gravy should not betoo thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Sevilleorange is a great improvement to this dish. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to make the gravy; 1/4 hour for the duckgradually to warm through. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

ROAST WILD DUCK. 

1022. INGREDIENTS. --Wild duck, flour, butter. 

[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK. ]

_Mode_. --Carefully pluck and draw them; Cut off the heads close to thenecks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut off thefeet; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on eachside of the breast; others truss them as shown in our Illustration. Roast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put down, let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep the gravyin); afterwards baste plentifully with butter, and a few minutes beforeserving dredge them lightly with flour; baste well, and send them totable nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds willlose their flavour. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orangegravy, No. 488; and send to table with them a cut lemon. To take off thefishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minuteswith hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt; thentake away the pan, and baste with butter. --See coloured plate, G1. 

_Time_. --When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes; well done, 25 to 35minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4s. To 5s. The couple. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK. ]

 THE WILD DUCK. --The male of the wild dock is called a mallard; and the young ones are called flappers. The time to try to find a brood of these is about the month of July, among the rushes of the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream, where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be taken as a certainty that its brood is not far off. When once found, flappers are easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their wings are fledged. Consequently, the sport is more like hunting water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing, they assume the name of wild ducks, and about the month of August repair to the corn-fields, where they remain until they are disturbed by the harvest-people. They then frequent the rivers pretty early in the evening, and give excellent sport to those who have patience to wait for them. In order to know a wild duck, it is necessary only to look at the claws, which should be black. 

HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery). 

1023. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful oflemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock. 

_Mode_. --Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the bestpieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with theonion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these forabout an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour;add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, andlet them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow itto boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1-1/4 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Note_. --Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and theflavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c. ;but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of gameshould really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c. , are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour thedish should possess. 

GROUSE PIE. 

1024. INGREDIENTS. --Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. Ofrump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neatpieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, ifsmall, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puffpaste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmingswill make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, abunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after thepie is baked. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. 

ROAST GROUSE. 

[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE. ]

1025. INGREDIENTS. --Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread. 

_Mode_. --Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them;wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without thehead, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to trussthem with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered themost approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep themwell basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on abuttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butterpoured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy. --See coloured plate, L1. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 2s. To 2s. 6d. The brace; but seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. 

[Illustration: RED GROUSE. ]

 GROUSE. --These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse, red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length, and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia, Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer, frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces, and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France, and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse, white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland. In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured, and somewhat flavoured like the hare. 

GROUSE SALAD. 

(_Soyer's Recipe_. )

1026. INGREDIENTS. --8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for thesauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. Of salt, 4tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill ofcream. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cuta thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them inthe dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flatborder of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad isto be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, theyolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre afresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted thegrouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and preparethe sauce as follows:--Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, theyolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil andvinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice orin a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, whichlightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on thesalad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad andthe remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot onthe point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placedbetween, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round. Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains ofcold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner, and will make a very delicate dish. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December. 

[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE. ]

 THE CAPERCALZIE. --This bird was to be met with formerly both in Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its sustenance. 

 GROUSE. --Under this general term are included several species of game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red, however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands, and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation, being considered as little different from common grouse. 

ROAST HARE. 

1027. INGREDIENTS. --Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose a young hare; which may be known by itssmooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being muchspread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, ifproperly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better tohang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipethe inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger, to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, andwhich also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, andsoak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it liein vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in severalwaters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill thebelly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to thebody towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head betweenthe shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave theears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie itabove the back. 

[Illustration: ROAST HARE. ]

_Mode_. --The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it isfirst laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before theinside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwardswith butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so asto preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almostroasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicelyfrothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a littlegravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must alsonot be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roasthare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milkand butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated, must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybeparboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not beused unless quite fresh. --See coloured plate, E1. 

_Time_. --A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2hours. 

_Average cost_, from 4s. To 6s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

THE HARE. --This little animal is found generally distributed overEurope, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extremetimidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as ameans of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and issupplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear withgreat acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed soprominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. Itlives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry, notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that ofthe rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Itsgeneral time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if notdisturbed, it adheres closely to its _form_. 

[Illustration: THE HARE. ]

POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish). 

1028. INGREDIENTS. --1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch ofsavoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and putit into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add theremaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender, and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough, take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with the bacon_, in amortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not besufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, butbe careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Pressthe meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in adry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved forhashes, soups, &c. &c. 

_Time_. --About 21/2 hours to stew the hare. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish). 

1029. INGREDIENTS. --The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne andsalt to taste, a little butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highlywith salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter, and send to table very quickly. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

HASHED HARE. 

1030. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of poundedmace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch ofsavoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter andflour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones, and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace, allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, andstrain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine andketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may beleft. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when ithas simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish withsippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

JUGGED HARE. 

(_Very Good_. )

1031. INGREDIENTS. --1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. Of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pintof port wine. 

_Mode_. --Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredgethem with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint ofgravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with alittle flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, anonion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a goodseasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, putit up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew untilthe hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. Whennearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made byrecipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a fewminutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly. 

_Time_, --3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 7s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

II. 

(_A Quicker and more Economical Way_. )

1032. INGREDIENTS. --1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuckwith 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, astrip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls ofmushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine. 

_Mode. _--Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large), and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them intoa stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, andlemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully removeall the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be inabout 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out thepieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchupand port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through asieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should beadded at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may bestewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted fortable. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it. 

_Time_. --Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February. 

_Note_. --Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting thehare, &c. Into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan ofboiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste. 

ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE. 

1033. INGREDIENTS. --3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs. 

[Illustration: LANDRAILS. ]

_Mode_. --Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with dampcloths, and truss them in the following manner:--Bring the head roundunder the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer throughthem and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clearfire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with atureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to tablewith them. 

_Time_. --12 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, --Seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow--1 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from August 12th to the middle of September. 

[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL. ]

 THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE. --This bird is migratory in its habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long aërial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down. When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage, and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and, whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight ounces, and is then most delicious eating. 

TO DRESS A LEVERET. 

1034. INGREDIENTS. --2 leverets, butter, flour. 

_Mode_. --Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, butthey do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keepthem well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes beforeserving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Servewith plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly withthem. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 4s. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from May to August, but cheapest in July and August. 

BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish). 

1035. INGREDIENTS. --3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a smallpiece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce. 

_Mode_. --Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe theinside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne, broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub asmall piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with browngravy or mushroom sauce. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. To 2s. A brace. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. 

PARTRIDGE PIE. 

1036. INGREDIENTS. --3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4lb. Of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste. 

_Mode_. --Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice ofham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe thepartridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them insidewith pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; placethem in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dishwith puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of anegg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. To 2s. A brace. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. 

Note. --Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; theywill then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushroomsshould always be added. 

POTTED PARTRIDGE. 

1037. INGREDIENTS. --Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspicewhite pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste. 

_Mode_. --Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a dampcloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mixtogether, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birdsas closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them, and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this, and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, thencut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a largepotting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in acool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer forbasting, or for paste for meat pies. --See coloured plate, D1. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. 

SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES. 

1038. INGREDIENTS. --3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham, 1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 wholepeppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lumpof sugar. 

_Mode_. --After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them ratherunderdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cutthem into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts;put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy isready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with thecarrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, intoa stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, addthe bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour. Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; putit to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira anda small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of thefire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish withcroûtons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed inthis way, although not so good as when the birds are in the firstinstance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable forpheasants, moor-game, &c. ; but care must be taken always to skin thejoints. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1 hour. 

_Sufficient_. --2 or 3 partridges for an entrée. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. 

ROAST PARTRIDGE. 

1039. INGREDIENTS. --Partridge; butter. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose young birds, with dark-coloured billsand yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be noflavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should bekept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended, as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to othersdisgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or without the head, the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable. Pluck, draw, and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut off the head, leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back; bring the legs closeto the breast, between it and the side-bones, and pass a skewer throughthe pinions and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on, it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer. 

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE. ]

_Mode_. --When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before anice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving, flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce, and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should bepoured over the bird. --See coloured plate, D1. 

_Time_. --25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, is 1s. 6d. To 2s. A brace. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February. 

[Illustration: PARTRIDGES. ]

 THE PARTRIDGE. --This bird is to be found in nearly all the temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate, whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the preservation of its young. "I have seen it often, " says a very celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might to preserve their brood. " Partridges should be chosen young; if old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills. 

PHEASANT CUTLETS. 

1040. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne andsalt to taste, brown gravy. 

_Mode_. --Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few days;pluck, draw, and wipe them inside; cut them into joints; remove thebones from the best of these; and the backbones, trimmings, &c. , putinto a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, &c. , to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape, egg andbread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire, pile them high in thedish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should bestrained, flavoured, and thickened. One of the small bones should bestuck on the point of each cutlet. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. To 3s. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 entrées. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. 

ROAST PHEASANT. 

1041. INGREDIENTS. --Pheasant, flour, butter. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Old pheasants may be known by the length andsharpness of their spurs; in young ones they are short and blunt. Thecock bird is generally reckoned the best, except when the hen is withegg. They should hang some time before they are dressed, as, if they arecooked fresh, the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. After thebird is plucked and drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and trussit in the same manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, asshown in the engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on tothe point of the skewer. 

[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT. ]

_Mode_. --Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flourand froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should bepoured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of thepheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as anornament; but the fashion is not much to be commended. --See colouredplate, F1. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 1 hour, according to the size. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. To 3s. Each. _Sufficient_, --1 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. 

[Illustration: THE PHEASANT. ]

 THE PHEASANT. --This beautiful bird is said to have been discovered by the Argonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is common, however, in almost all the southern parts of the European continent, and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most woody counties of England. It is very common in France; indeed, so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers. Although it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state. Mr. Ude says--"It is not often that pheasants are met with possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept as long as they are in other countries. The hens, in general, are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour, if you keep it long enough; if not, it is not much different from that of a common fowl or hen. "

BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance. 

1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked (_see_ No. 1041), it should be plucked, and not before. The bird should then bestuffed in the following manner:--Take two snipes, and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the livers, &c. , on another. Takeoff the flesh, and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a fewtruffles, pepper and salt to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefullywith this. Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably than the bird, andcover it with the liver, &c. , and a few truffles: an anchovy and alittle fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the bread, &c. , into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on thepreparation, and surround it with Florida oranges. 

Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner; for a pheasant servedin this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is avery good bird; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of thetruffle and snipe, it becomes thrice better. 

BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish). 

1043. INGREDIENTS. --1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread crumbs, salt and cayenne to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the legs off at the first joint, and the remainder of thebird into neat pieces; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard, andwhen browned on both sides, and about half done, take them out and drainthem; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbswith which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broilthem over a moderate fire for about 10 minutes, or rather longer, andserve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which afew game-bones and trimmings have been stewed. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February. 

 THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT. --Things edible have their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus, asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young. Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity: let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished, and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper length of time, --and this can be ascertained by a slight smell and change of colour, --then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish, occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a turn or two more. 

TO DRESS PLOVERS. 

1044. INGREDIENTS. --3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread. 

_Choosing and Trussing_. --Choose those that feel hard at the vent, asthat shows their fatness. There are three sorts, --the grey, green, andbastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but ifvery stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit foranything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made intoa ragoût, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended. 

_Mode_. --Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with adamp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing, put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in thedripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge themlightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them benicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the _trail_ shouldbe equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and sendsome to table in a tureen. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to 1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. The brace, if plentiful. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --In perfection from the beginning of September to the endof January. 

 THE PLOVER. --There are two species of this bird, the grey and the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey, but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country abounds. 

[Illustration: THE PLOVER. ]

TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN. 

1045. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender, areexceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible, to begood. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as grouse, No. 1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth them nicely, and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce, when liked, may be sent to table with them, and fried bread crumbssubstituted for the toasted bread. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of February to the end of April. 

 THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE. --This bird is nearly the same size as red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, where it braves the severest weather, and is found in most parts of Europe, as well as in Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear in such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently taken at once in a net. As they are as tame as chickens, this is done without difficulty. Buffon says that the Ptarmigan avoids the solar heat, and prefers the frosts of the summits of the mountains; for, as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains, it ascends till it gains the top, where it makes a hole, and burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a bitter, but not altogether an unpalatable taste. It is dark-coloured, and has something of the flavour of the hare, and is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen. 

[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN. ]

TO DRESS QUAILS. 

1046. INGREDIENTS. --Quails, butter, toast. 

_Mode_. --These birds keep good several days, and should be roastedwithout drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks, No. 1062;roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve ontoast. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. _Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_ 2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from October to December. 

[Illustration: THE QUAIL. ]

 THE QUAIL. --Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe, Asia, and Africa. Being birds of passage, they are seen in immense flocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to Africa, in the autumn, and returning again in the spring, frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of the Archipelago, which, with their vast numbers, they almost completely cover. On the western coasts of the kingdom of Naples, they have appeared in such prodigious numbers, that, within the compass of four or five miles, as many as a hundred thousand have been taken in a day. "From these circumstances, " says a writer on natural history, "it appears highly probable that the quails which supplied the Israelites with food during their journey through the wilderness, were sent thither, on their passage to the north, by a wind from the south-west, sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red Sea. " In England they are not very numerous, although they breed in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year, changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country for the seacoast. 

TO DRESS SNIPES. 

1047. INGREDIENTS. --Snipes, butter, flour, toast. 

_Mode_. --These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn. Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the head under thewing, having previously skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at thefirst joint, press the feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer throughthese and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack orspit, and roast before a clear fire for about 1/4 hour. Put some piecesof buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour andfroth the birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes onthem, and pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. Theyshould be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not beworth eating. --See coloured plate M1. 

[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE. ]

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. To 2s. The brace. 

_Sufficient_, --4 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

_Note_. --Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner. 

[Illustration: THE SNIPE. ]

 THE SNIPE. --This is a migratory bird, and is generally distributed over Europe. It is found in most parts of England, in the high as well as the low lands, depending much on the weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to the hills, but at other times frequents marshes, where it can penetrate the earth with its bill, hunting for worms, which form its principal food. In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and they are fattest in frosty weather. In the breeding season the snipe changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter. The male will keep on wing for an hour together, mounting like a lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating sound, not unlike that made by an old goat, it will descend with great velocity, especially if the female be sitting in her nest, from which it will not wander far. 

ROAST TEAL. 

1048. INGREDIENTS. --Teal, butter, a little flour. 

_Mode_. --Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they aregenerally better flavoured; truss them in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well basted. Serve with brown or orange gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. Theremains of teal make excellent hash. 

_Time_. --From 9 to 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Each; but seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from October to February. 

ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

1049. INGREDIENTS. --Venison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a littleflour. 

_Mode_. --Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and thecleft of the hoof smooth and close; the greater quantity of fat thereis, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object tovenison when it has too much _haut goût_, ascertain how long it has beenkept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone; whenthis is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care andattention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is verymild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not theleast damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as apreventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in warmwater, and _dry_ it _well_ with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper, put it over the fat, lay a coarse paste, about 1/2 inch in thickness, over this, and then a sheet or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmlyon to the haunch with twine, and put the joint down to a strong closefire; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and stringfrom burning, and continue this operation, without intermission, thewhole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is done, carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour, andbaste well with _butter_ until it is nicely frothed, and of a nicepale-brown colour; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, andcurrant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve thatalso in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is topreserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expenseis not objected to; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensedwith, and a double paper placed over the roast instead: it will notrequire so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hotplates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes: to be thoroughlyenjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neckand shoulder may be roasted in the same manner. 

[Illustration: ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON. ]

_Time_. --A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours;haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without thepaste. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. To 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 18 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Buck venison in greatest perfection from June toMichaelmas; doe venison from November to the end of January. 

 THE DEER. --This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet. Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the kinds, under the name of "venison, " is considered very delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus the stag is called, the first year, a _calf_, or _hind-calf_; the second, a _knobber_; the third, a _brock_; the fourth, a _staggard_; the fifth, a _stag_; and the sixth, a _hart_. The female is, the first year, called a _calf_; the second, a _hearse_; and the third, a _hind_. In Britain, the stag has become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen, ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns, assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described. 

 VENISON. --This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large proportion of his wealth. There--

 "The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play, And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray, Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly, And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky. "

 In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is supposed to have been originally introduced into this country from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the "ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived. 

HASHED VENISON. 

1050. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of roast venison, its own or muttongravy, thickening of butter and flour. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there issufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it ispreferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones andtrimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let themstew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour andbutter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add thestrained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, whena little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by theside of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do notallow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly totable with it. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1-1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_. --Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, fromNovember to the end of January. 

_Note_. --A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, maybe added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be usedvery sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison. 

[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE). ]

 THE FALLOW-DEER. --This is the domestic or park deer; and no two animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner completed. 

STEWED VENISON. 

1051. INGREDIENTS. --A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weakstock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful ofwhole allspice. 

_Mode_. --Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten themeat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat, which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine;sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up, and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone andthe above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, blackpepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, verygently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, anddish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table withred-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the bestmode of cooking it. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 to 4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. To 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, fromNovember to the end of January. 

[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK. ]

 THE ROEBUCK. --This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to eight inches. 

[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND. ]

 THE STAG. --The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer, and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year, the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed. The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are between five and six years old shed them about the middle or latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April; and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the horns. --The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young, and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon, are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own. 

[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW). ]

 THE NEW VENISON. --The deer population of our splendid English parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant, valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their availability to gastronomic purposes. 

 During the last four or live years a few spirited English noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of the choicest character. 

 A practical solution of this interesting question was made by Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He weighed 1, 176 lbs. As he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap, and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and their progeny, all English-born, like himself. " Three pairs of the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more than cattle of the best description. " Travellers and sportsmen say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and delicate. It was tried in every fashion, --braised brisket, roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sauté, boiled aitchbone, &c. , --and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of surpassing value had been added to the products of the English park. 

 When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in 1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly reproduced, without the loss of a single calf. 

ROAST WIDGEON. 

1052. INGREDIENTS. --Widgeons, a little flour, butter. 

_Mode_. --These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022, but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to abrisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, whenbrowned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Servewith brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Each; but seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from October to February. 

[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK. ]

ROAST WOODCOCK. 

1053. INGREDIENTS. --Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast. 

_Mode_. --Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures, considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; trussthem with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon thethighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing. Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails, allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth themnicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them, and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen. These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not bekept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fitfor table. --See coloured plate, I 1. 

_Time_. ---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done, allow an extra 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ from November to February. 

[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK. ]

 THE WOODCOCK. --This bird being migratory in its habits, has, consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season, in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the partridge. " It has been asserted that they have been seen as far south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is eagerly sought after by the sportsman. 

GAME CARVING. 

BLACKCOCK. 

[Illustration: BLACKCOCK. ]

1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of theguests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed ofsuch delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appearsto more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes, than larger and more robust _pièces de résistance_. As described atrecipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the headon; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of thehead as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serveit without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly anddeftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dottedline from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced andthe leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, andfollowing the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000, reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the mosthonoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird. 

WILD DUCK. 

[Illustration: WILD DUCK. ]

1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as adish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishesare not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served ofeach, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Ofwild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, andslices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing theknife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions describedfor carving boiled fowl, No. 1000. 

ROAST HARE. 

[Illustration: ROAST HARE. ]

1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinarydignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill andgrace had an opportunity of display. _Diners à la Russe_ may possibly, erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art whichwas in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of theyouthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we seethe office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well forall to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if notthe most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare, having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be firstserved by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in thedirection of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposedof, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the lineindicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off bypassing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now bedivided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2, taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where theback may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve anybone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legsand placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and wheremen-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carvingis, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be rememberedin connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy shouldaccompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is alsoserved with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and thebrains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs. 

PARTRIDGES. 

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES. ]

1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird. The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along thetop of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thusdividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the samemanner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it intothree pieces; viz. , by severing a small wing and leg on either side fromthe body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The mostelegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, andthen cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauceshould be served to each guest. 

GROUSE. 

[Illustration]

1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carvingpartridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, andthis part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured. 

PHEASANT. 

[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT. ]

1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from itin the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces. If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, thenlet the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described incarving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins theneckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in thesame way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as thosewhich are most considered in a fowl. 

SNIPE. 

[Illustration: SNIPE. ]

1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to agentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quitethrough the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal andlike portions, and put only one half on the plate. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON. ]

1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercisehis skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there isbut little difficulty in the performance. An incision being madecompletely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, thegravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick, should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; thatend of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so thathe may have a more complete command over the joint. Although someepicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior toothers, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cutabove and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guestwith a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the bestcarver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it losesmuch of its charm. 

WOODCOCK. 

[Illustration: WOODCOCK. ]

1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactlyinto two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described incarving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit ofa woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. Thisbird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connectionwith the pheasant, viz. , on toast which has received its drippingswhilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompanyeach plate. 

LANDRAIL. 

1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of itsbeing drawn, may be carved in the same manner. --See No. 1060. 

PTARMIGAN. 

1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the samemanner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described inPartridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058. 

QUAILS. 

1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarlycarved. --See No. 1062. 

PLOVERS. 

1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed andserved in the same way as those birds. --See No. 1055. 

TEAL. 

1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may betreated, in carving, in the same style. 

WIDGEON. 

1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard toWild Duck, at No. 1055. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXIV. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. 

 "Strange there should be found Who, self-imprison'd in their proud saloons, Renounce the odours of the open field For the unscented fictions of the loom; Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes, Prefer to the performance of a God, Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand! Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art, But Nature's works far lovelier. "--COWPER. 

1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS, " says Hogg, in his NaturalHistory of the Vegetable Kingdom, "may be aptly compared to the primarycolours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and intimatelyblended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where theother begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye wouldeasily distinguish the one from the other; but when the two are blended, and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellowbegins. And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powersof observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants, if there were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in theone, and trees, shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be ablewith facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms; but as wedescend the scale of each, and arrive at the lowest forms of animals andplants, we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure, sometimes amere cell, whose organization, modes of development and reproduction, are so anomalous, and partake so much of the character of both, that wecannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals. "

1070. WHILST IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE where the animal begins andthe vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of thesingularities by which numbers of plants are characterized. This, however, can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when werecollect that, so far as it is at present known, the vegetable kingdomis composed of upwards of 92, 000 species of plants. Of this amazingnumber the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiestkinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very creators of thesoil: they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions, many of themcommencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on thebarest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may besupplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they haveexhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them, they pass into a state of decay, and become changed into a very finemould, which, in the active spontaneity of nature, immediately begins toproduce other species, which in their turn become food for variousmosses, and also rot. This process of growth and decay, being, from timeto time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for themaintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and so increasethe soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even theweight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, mustnot be considered as the only end of the lichen; different kinds of itminister to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes; thus the_lichen rocella_ is used to communicate to silk and wool, various shadesof purple and crimson, which greatly enhance the value of thesematerials. This species is chiefly imported from the Canary Islands, and, when scarce, as an article of commerce has brought as much as £1000per ton. 

1071. IN THE VICINITY OF LICHENS, THE MUSCI, OR MOSSES, are generally tobe found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are, affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables, and, by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves otherplants from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we findthem enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see themabounding in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to theliving, and still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches oftrees. In marshy places they also abound, and become the medium of theirconversion into fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner inwhich peat-mosses are formed: on the surface of these we find them in astate of great life and vigour; immediately below we discover them, moreor less, in a state of decomposition; and, still deeper, we find theirstems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat. Thus areextensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a state ofcultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man. 

1072. WHEN NATURE HAS FOUND A SOIL, her next care is to perfect thegrowth of her seeds, and then to disperse them. Whilst the seed remainsconfined in its capsule, it cannot answer its purpose; hence, when it issufficiently ripe, the pericardium opens, and lets it out. What muststrike every observer with surprise is, how nuts and shells, which wecan hardly crack with our teeth, or even with a hammer, will divide ofthemselves, and make way for the little tender sprout which proceedsfrom the kernel. There are instances, it is said, such as in theTouch-me-not (_impatiens_), and the Cuckoo-flower (_cardamine_), inwhich the seed-vessels, by an elastic jerk at the moment of theirexplosion, cast the seeds to a distance. We are all aware, however, thatmany seeds--those of the most composite flowers, as of the thistle anddandelion--are endowed with, what have not been inappropriately called, wings. These consist of a beautiful silk-looking down, by which they areenabled to float in the air, and to be transported, sometimes, toconsiderable distances from the parent plant that produced them. Theswelling of this downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by whichthe seed is enabled to overcome the resistance of its coats, and toforce for itself a passage by which it escapes from its littleprison-house. 

[Illustration: BEETON'S Book of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENTEDITED BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON]

[Illustration: "THE FREE, FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND. "]

1073. BIRDS, AS WELL AS QUADRUPEDS, are likewise the means of dispersingthe seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where theyultimately grow. Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is anextensive planter of oaks; nay, it may be regarded as having, in somemeasure, been one of the creators of the British navy. We have read of agentleman who was walking one day in some woods belonging to the Duke ofBeaufort, near Troy House, in Monmouthshire, when his attention wasarrested by a squirrel, sitting very composedly upon the ground. Hestopped to observe its motions, when, in a short time, the little animalsuddenly quitted its position, and darted to the top of the tree beneathwhich it had been sitting. In an instant it returned with an acorn inits mouth, and with its paws began to burrow in the earth. After digginga small hole, it therein deposited an acorn, which it hastily covered, and then darted up the tree again. In a moment it was down with another, which it buried in the same manner; and so continued its labour, gathering and burying, as long as the gentleman had patience to watchit. This industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to layup a store of provision for the winter; and as it is probable that itsmemory is not sufficiently retentive to enable it to recollect all thespots in which it deposits its acorns, it no doubt makes some slips inthe course of the season, and loses some of them. These few spring up, and are, in time, destined to supply the place of the parent tree. Thusmay the sons of Britain, in some degree, consider themselves to beindebted to the industry and defective memory of this little animal forthe production of some of those "wooden walls" which have, forcenturies, been the national pride, and which have so long "braved thebattle and the breeze" on the broad bosom of the great deep, in everyquarter of the civilized globe. As with the squirrel, so with jays andpies, which plant among the grass and moss, horse-beans, and probablyforget where they have secreted them. Mr. White, the naturalist, says, that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in theautumn; and he attributes the sowing of them to birds. Bees, he alsoobserves, are much the best setters of cucumbers. If they do not happento take kindly to the frames, the best way is to tempt them by a littlehoney put on the male and female bloom. When they are once induced tohaunt the frames, they set all the fruit, and will hover with impatienceround the lights in a morning till the glasses are opened. 

1074. Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of Monmouthshire may benow in a fair way to become, at the end of some centuries, venerabletrees; for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strongprinciple of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke's "Sketchof the forest of Sherwood" we find it stated that, on some timber cutdown in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in the bodiesof the trees, denoting the king's reign in which they were marked. Thebark appears to have been cut off, and then the letters to have been cutin, and the next year's wood to have grown over them without adhering towhere the bark had been cut out. The ciphers were found to be of JamesI. , William and Mary, and one of King John. One of the ciphers of Jameswas about one foot within the tree, and one foot from the centre. It wascut down in 1786. The tree must have been two feet in diameter, or twoyards in circumference, when the mark was cut. A tree of this size isgenerally estimated at 120 years' growth; which number being subtractedfrom the middle year of the reign of James, would carry the year back to1492, which would be about the period of its being planted. The treewith the cipher of William and Mary displayed its mark about nine incheswithin the tree, and three feet three inches from the centre. This treewas felled in 1786. The cipher of John was eighteen inches within thetree, and rather more than a foot from the centre. The middle year ofthe reign of that monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, thenumber of years requisite for a tree's growth to arrive at the diameterof two feet, the date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085, or about twenty years after the Conquest. 

[Illustration: CELLULAR DEVELOPMENT. ]

1075. Considering the great endurance of these trees, we are necessarilyled to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive atsuch strength and maturity; and whether it may be considered as ahumiliation we will not determine, but, with all the ingeniousmechanical contrivances of man, we are still unable to define the limitsof the animal and vegetable kingdoms. "Plants have been described bynaturalists, who would determine the limits of the two kingdoms, asorganized living bodies, without volition or locomotion, destitute of amouth or intestinal cavity, which, when detached from their place ofgrowth, die, and, in decay, ferment, but do not putrefy, and which, onbeing subjected to analysis, furnish an excess of carbon and nonitrogen. The powers of chemistry, and of the microscope, however, instead of confirming these views, tend more and more to show that astill closer affinity exists between plants and animals; for it is nowascertained that nitrogen, which was believed to be present only inanimals, enters largely into the composition of plants also. When themicroscope is brought to aid our powers of observation, we find thatthere are organized bodies belonging to the vegetable kingdom whichpossess very evident powers of locomotion, and which change about in sovery remarkable a manner, that no other cause than that of volition canbe assigned to it. " Thus it would seem that, in this particular atleast, some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal life; andwhen we consider the manner in which they are supplied with nourishment, and perform the functions of their existence, the resemblance would seemstill closer. If, for example, we take a thin transverse slice of thestem of any plant, or a slice cut across its stem, and immerse it in alittle pure water, and place it under a microscope, we will find that itconsists principally of cells, more or less regular, and resemblingthose of a honeycomb or a network of cobweb. The size of these varies indifferent plants, as it does in different parts of the same plant, andthey are sometimes so minute as to require a million to cover a squareinch of surface. This singular structure, besides containing water andair, is the repository or storehouse of various secretions. Through it, the sap, when produced, is diffused sideways through the plant, and byit numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its cells. Theforms of the cells are various; they are also subject to varioustransformations. Sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end toend, and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form acontinuous tube, as in the sap-vessels of plants, or in muscular andnervous fibre; and when cells are thus woven together, they are calledcellular tissue, which, in the human body, forms a fine net-likemembrane, enveloping or connecting most of its structures. In pulpyfruits, the cells may be easily separated one from the other; and withinthe cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp. Among thecell-contents of some plants are beautiful crystals, called _raphides_. The term is derived from [Greek: rhaphis] a _needle_, on account of theresemblance of the crystal to a needle. They are composed of thephosphate and oxalate of lime; but there is great difference of opinionas to their use in the economy of the plant, and one of the Frenchphilosophers endeavoured to prove that crystals are the possibletransition of the inorganic to organic matter. The differences, however, between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of organic lifeknown, viz. , a simple reproductive cell, are so manifold and striking, that the attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic matterpasses into organic, is almost totally regarded as futile. In a layer ofan onion, a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of aloe, in the bark of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of themedicinal squill, bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to befound. Some of them are as large as 1-40th of an inch, others are assmall as the 1-1000th. They are found in all parts of the plant, --in thestem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even in thepollen, with some few exceptions, and they are always situated in theinterior of cells. Some plants, as many of the _cactus_ tribe, are madeup almost entirely of these needle-crystals; in some instances, everycell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals; in others, thewhole interior is full of them, rendering the plant so exceedinglybrittle, that the least touch will occasion a fracture; so much so, thatsome specimens of _Cactus senilis_, said to be a thousand years old, which were sent a few years since to Kew, from South America, wereobliged to be packed in cotton, with all the care of the most delicatejewellery, to preserve them during transport. 

[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE FROM UNDER-SIDE OF LEAF OF DEUTZIASCABRA. ]

[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE OF GRASS. ]

1076. Besides the cellular tissue, there is what is called a vascularsystem, which consists of another set of small vessels. If, for example, we, early in the spring, cut a branch transversely, we will perceive thesap oozing out from numerous points over the whole of the dividedsurface, except on that part occupied by the pith and the bark; and if atwig, on which the leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree, and placed with its cut end in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, thecolouring matter will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the topof the twig. In both these cases, a close examination with a powerfulmicroscope, will discover the sap perspiring from the divided portion ofthe stem, and the colouring matter rising through real tubes to the topof the twig: these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. If, however, we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any othertree, at a later period of the season, we find that the wood isapparently dry, whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood, is swelled with fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kindfrom those in which the sap rises. They are found in the _bark_ only intrees, and may be called returning vessels, from their carrying the sapdownwards after its preparation in the leaf. It is believed that thepassage of the sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similarto that of the blood in man, from the regular contraction and expansionof the vessels; but, on account of their extreme minuteness, it isalmost an impossibility to be certain upon this point. Numerousobservations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldomexceeds a 290th part of a line, or a 3, 000th part of an inch. Leuwenhoeck reckoned 20, 000 vessels in a morsel of oak about onenineteenth of an inch square. 

1077. In the vascular system of a plant, we at once see the greatanalogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system;but neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that isrequired to perfect the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, atracheal system, which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes, designed for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant. There are also fibres, which consist of collections of these cells andvessels closely united together. These form the root and the stem. If weattempt to cut them transversely, we meet with difficulty, because wehave to force our way across the tubes, and break them; but if we slitthe wood lengthwise, the vessels are separated without breaking. Thelayers of wood, which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cuttransversely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce ofone year's growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, withoutwhich they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there isthe cuticle, which extends over every part of the plant, and covers thebark with three distinct coats. The _liber_, or inner bark, is said tobe formed of hollow tubes, which convey the sap downwards to increasethe solid diameter of the tree. 

1078. THE ROOT AND THE STEM NOW DEMAND A SLIGHT NOTICE. The former isdesigned, not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, butalso to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance ofnourishment: it is therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, asthey are called, from their resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whatevercomes within its reach. It is found in a variety of forms, and hence itsadaptation to a great diversity of soils and circumstances. We haveheard of a willow-tree being dug up and its head planted where its rootswere, and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches. In course of time, the roots became branches, and the branches roots, orrather, roots rose from the branches beneath the ground, and branchesshot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two, andothers, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an indefiniteperiod of existence; but they all consist of a collection of fibres, composed of vascular and cellular tissue, without tracheae, orbreathing-vessels. The stem is the grand distributor of the nourishmenttaken up by the roots, to the several parts of the plant. The seat ofits vitality is said to be in the point or spot called the neck, whichseparates the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant be cutoff, it will shoot out afresh; if even the stem be taken away, it willbe renewed; but if this part be injured, the plant will assuredly die. 

1079. IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PLAN OF THIS WORK, special notices ofculinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they arespoken of; but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it asour conviction, that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamentalplant into our island, ought justly to be considered, to a large extent, a benefactor to the country. No one can calculate the benefits which mayspring from this very vegetable, after its qualities have becomethoroughly known. If viewed in no other light, it is pleasing toconsider it as bestowing upon us a share of the blessings of otherclimates, and enabling us to participate in the luxury which a moregenial sun has produced. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

BOILED ARTICHOKES. 

1080. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling;artichokes. 

[Illustration: ARTICHOKES. ]

_Mode_. --Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see that no insectsremain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom. Cut off thestems and put them into _boiling_ water, to which have been added saltand soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and letthem boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done bythrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easilyremoved. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve ina napkin, or with a little white sauce poured over. A tureen of meltedbutter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, isconsidered better for being gathered two or three days; but they must bewell soaked and washed previous to dressing. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils. 

_Sufficient_, --a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. 

[Illustration: CARDOON ARTICHOKE. ]

 THE COMPOSITAE, OR COMPOSITE FLOWERS. --This family is so extensive, as to contain nearly a twelfth part of the whole of the vegetable kingdom. It embraces about 9, 000 species, distributed over almost every country; and new discoveries are constantly being made and added to the number. Towards the poles their numbers diminish, and slightly, also, towards the equator; but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical islands, and in the tracts of continent not far from the sea-shore. Among esculent vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scorzonera, Cardoon, and Artichoke belong to the family. 

FRIED ARTICHOKES. 

(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course. )

1081. INGREDIENTS. --5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for thebatter, --1/4 lb. Of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk. 

_Mode_. --Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080, and rub themover with lemon-juice, to keep them white. When they are quite tender, take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each pieceinto batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish withcrisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. 

_Sufficient_, --5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. 

A FRENCH MODE OF COOKING ARTICHOKES. 

1082. INGREDIENTS. --5 or 6 artichokes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch ofsavoury herbs, 2 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Cut the ends of the leaves, as also the stems; put theartichokes into boiling water, with the above proportion of salt, pepper, herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly until tender, keepingthe lid of the saucepan off, and when the leaves come out easily, theyare cooked enough. To keep them a beautiful green, put a large piece ofcinder into a muslin bag, and let it boil with them. Serve with plainmelted butter. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes. 

_Sufficient_, --5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. 

ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE. 

1083. INGREDIENTS. --4 or 6 artichokes, salt and butter, about 1/2 pintof good gravy. 

_Mode_. --Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them untiltender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When done, drainthem well, and lay them all round the dish, with the leaves outside. Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured with mushrooms; reduce ituntil quite thick, and pour it round the artichokes, and serve. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes to boil the artichokes. 

_Sufficient_ for one side-dish. 

_Seasonable_ from July to the beginning of September. 

 CONSTITUENT PROPERTIES OF THE ARTICHOKE. --According to the analysis of Braconnet, the constituent elements of an artichoke are, --starch 30, albumen 10, uncrystallizable sugar 148, gum 12, fixed oil 1, woody fibre 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770. 

BOILED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

1084. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; artichokes. 

_Mode_. --Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes in a round or oval form, and put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, salted in the above proportion. Let them boil gently until tender; takethem up, drain them, and serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichevermode is preferred; send to table with them a tureen of melted butter orcream sauce, a little of which may be poured over the artichokes whenthey are _not_ served in a napkin. 

[Illustration: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. ]

_Time_. --About 20 minutes after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_, --10 for a dish for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to June. 

 USES OF THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. --This being a tuberous-rooted plant, with leafy stems from four to six feet high, it is alleged that its tops will afford as much fodder per acre as a crop of oats, or more, and its roots half as many tubers as an ordinary crop of potatoes. The tubers, being abundant in the market-gardens, are to be had at little more than the price of potatoes. The fibres of the stems may be separated by maceration, and manufactured into cordage or cloth; and this is said to be done in some parts of the north and west of France, as about Hagenau, where this plant, on the poor sandy soils, is an object of field culture. 

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

1085. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 oz. Of salt; 15 or16 artichokes, 1 oz. Butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender;drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. Whenthoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan with thebutter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep stirring over thefire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to June. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH WHITE SAUCE. 

(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish. )

1086. INGREDIENTS. --12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts, 1/2pint of white sauce, No. 538. 

_Mode_. --Peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear; cut a pieceoff the bottom of each, that they may stand upright in the dish, andboil them in salt and water until tender. Have ready 1/2 pint of whitesauce, made by recipe No. 538; dish the artichokes, pour over them thesauce, and place between each a fine Brussels sprout: these should beboiled separately, and not with the artichokes. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to June. 

 THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. --This plant is well known, being, for its tubers, cultivated not only as a garden vegetable, but also as an agricultural crop. By many it is much esteemed as an esculent, when cooked in various ways; and the domesticated animals eat both the fresh foliage, and the tubers with great relish. By some, they are not only considered nourishing, but even fattening. 

BOILED ASPARAGUS. 

1087. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; asparagus. 

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. ASPARAGUS TONGS. ]

_Mode_. --Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it iscut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks intocold water; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot becooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, _beginning_ fromthe _head_, and throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundlesof about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalksevenly, that they may all be the same length; put them into _boiling_water, with salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quicklyuntil tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done, dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cookedin, and leave the white ends outwards each war, with the points meetingin the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter. 

_Time_. --15 to 18 minutes after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. The 100 heads. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had, forced, from January but cheapest in May, June, and July. 

[Illustration: ASPARAGUS. ]

 ASPARAGUS. --This plant belongs to the variously-featured family of the order _Liliaceae_, which, in the temperate regions of both hemispheres, are most abundant, and, between the tropics, gigantic in size and arborescent in form. Asparagus is a native of Great Britain, and is found on various parts of the seacoast, and in the fens of Lincolnshire. At Kynarve Cove, in Cornwall, there is an island called "Asparagus Island, " from the abundance in which it is there found. The uses to which the young shoots are applied, and the manure in which they are cultivated in order to bring them to the highest state of excellence, have been a study with many kitchen-gardeners. 

ASPARAGUS PEAS. 

(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course. )

1088. INGREDIENTS. --100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. Of butter, a smallbunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolksof 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt. 

_Mode_. --Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equalsize, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw theminto cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water untilthree-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry themoisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in alittle flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boileda short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken withthe yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and, when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the saucesufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. A pint. 

_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July. 

 MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS. --This plant not only acts as a wholesome and nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic, aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical analysis of its juice discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable principle, called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and some salts. Thours says, the cellular tissue contains a substance similar to sage. The berries are capable of undergoing vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. In their unripe state they possess the same properties as the roots, and probably in a much higher degree. 

ASPARAGUS PUDDING. 

(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course. )

1089. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfulsof flour, 1 tablespoonful of _very finely_ minced ham, 1 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk. 

_Mode_. --Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the sizeof peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be wellbeaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all theseingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make thepudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint butteredmould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in _boilingwater_, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to ahot dish, and pour plain melted butter _round_, but not over, thepudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner, substituting peas for the asparagus. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per pint. 

_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July. 

BOILED FRENCH BEANS. 

1090. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda. 

[Illustration: Scarlet Runner. ]

_Mode_. --This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowedto grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off theheads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to removethe strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according tosize, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they arecut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolvedin it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in theabove proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with thelid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender, which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan, take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish andserve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimesserved whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour aremuch better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is tocut them into thin strips. 

_Time_. --Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20minutes, after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 4d. A peck; but, when forced, veryexpensive. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September; but may behad, forced, from February to the beginning of June. 

FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS. 

1091. INGREDIENTS. --A quart of French beans, 3 oz. Of fresh butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and whentender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry awaythe moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan, without using aspoon, as that would break the beans; and when the butter is melted, andall is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter should not mix well, add atablespoonful of gravy, and serve very quickly. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them overthe fire. 

_Average cost_, in full season, about 1s. 4d. A peck. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September. 

BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS. 

1092. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; beans. 

[Illustration: BROAD BEAN. ]

_Mode_. --This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to benice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans, put them into _boiling_ water, salted in the above proportion, and letthem boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, andserve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled baconshould always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cookedseparately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and theparsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish toa ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have theirskins removed. 

_Time_. --Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25minutes, or longer. 

_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. Per peck. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August. 

 NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN. --The produce of beans in meal is, like that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of beans is supposed to yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats; and a bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some, twenty pounds. A thousand parts of bean flour were found by Sir II. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive matter, of which 426 were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter rendered insoluble during the process. 

BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE. 

1093. INGREDIENTS. --2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump ofsugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, and shellsufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, untilnearly done; then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with thestock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectlytender, and the liquor has dried away a little; then beat up the yolk ofan egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let the whole getthoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should thebeans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to boilingthem. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in thestock. 

_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. Per peck. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August. 

 ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN. --This valuable plant is said to be a native of Egypt, but, like other plants which have been domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It has been cultivated in Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known in Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general heads, --the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field beans, of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and long-pod are almost the only sorts; of the latter, those known as the horse-bean, the small or ticks, and the prolific of Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured in the same manner as in other plants. 

BOILED BEETROOT. 

1094. INGREDIENTS, --Beetroot; boiling water. 

_Mode_. --When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a veryexcellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into aneconomical and quickly-made pickle. (_See_ No. 369. ) Beetroot is morefrequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred, melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewedwith button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash thebeets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they arecooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put theminto boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them wellcovered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetrootinto thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle, &c. , let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices. 

_Time_. --Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 2d. Each. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had at any time. 

[Illustration: BEETROOT. ]

 BEETROOT. --The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts (_Salxolaceae_), to which beetroot belongs, is most common in extra-tropical and temperate regions, where they are common weeds, frequenting waste places, among rubbish, and on marshes by the seashore. In the tropics they are rare. They are characterized by the large quantities of mucilage, sugar, starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many of them are used as potherbs, and some are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties. The _root_ of _garden_ or red beet is exceedingly wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down this root with an equal quantity of flour. He says that the average quality of flour contains about 12 per cent. Of azotized principles adapted for the formation of flesh, and the average quality of beet contains about 2 per cent. Of the same materials. 

BOILED BROCOLI. 

1095. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; brocoli. 

[Illustration: BOILED BROCOLI. ]

_Mode_. --Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut offlevel with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and putthe brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. Whenthey have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are _perfectly_free from insects, put them into a saucepan of _boiling_ water, saltedin the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a briskfire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the momentthey are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of meltedbutter, a _little_ of which should be poured over the brocoli. If leftin the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will bespoiled, and its crispness gone. 

_Time_. --Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_, --2 for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to March; plentiful in February and March. 

[Illustration: BROCOLI. ]

 THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE. --This variety presents a singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome, nutritious, and very palatable. 

BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

1096. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. 

_Mode_. --Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick offany dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into asaucepan of _boiling_ water, with salt and soda in the above proportion;keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fireuntil tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, orwith a maître d'hôtel sauce poured over them. Another mode of servingis, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. Of butter and aseasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table veryquickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where thecook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arrangedon the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a verypretty appearance. 

_Time_. --From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. Per peck. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

 SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS. --When the Green Kale, or Borecole, has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves; it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts. Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the _Borecole oleracea capitula_ of science); and all its varieties of green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the forms into which it is possible to put it. 

TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS. 

1097. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. 

[Illustration: BRUSSELS SPROUTS. ]

_Mode_. --Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in coldwater; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, takethem up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. Thegreat art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, isto put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_ water, to let them boil veryquickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender. 

_Time_. --Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils. 

_Seasonable_. --Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year. 

 GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE. --When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole. The scientific name is _Borecole oleracea acephala_, and of it there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed, and the Cow or Tree Cabbage. 

BOILED CABBAGE. 

1098. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. _Mode_. --Pick offall the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should bevery large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in acolander, and drain; then put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions. Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, andlet them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take themup into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain, dish, and serve. 

_Time_. --Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summercabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Each in full season. 

_Sufficient_, --2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time. 

 THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN. --Of all the tribes of the _Cruciferae_ this is by far the most important. Its scientific name is _Brassiceae_, and it contains a collection of plants which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant, with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves, of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who, after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the _Brassica oleracea_ of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Greens, and Brocoli. 

STEWED RED CABBAGE. 

1099. INGREDIENTS. --1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. Offresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt andpepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan, with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and thevinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it isvery tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt andpepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fireuntil nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages areusually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and onthe cabbage, as a garnish. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to January. 

 THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT. --This plant, as it is found on the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart. 

BOILED CARROTS. 

1100. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; carrots. 

_Mode_. --Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and shouldthere be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them inhalves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them intoboiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil untiltender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish, and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment toboiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a fewcarrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sentto table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly somuch boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition tostewed veal, &c. 

_Time_. --Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2hour. 

_Average cost_, 6d. To 8d, per bunch of 18. 

_Sufficient_, --4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. 

[Illustration: CARROTS. ]

 ORIGIN OF THE CARROT. --In its wild state, this vegetable is found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and, generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion. 

TO DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY. 

1101. INGREDIENTS. --8 large carrots, 3 oz. Of butter, salt to taste, avery little grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley, 1dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak stockor broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour. 

_Mode_. --Wash and scrape the carrots, and cut them into rings of about1/4 inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the aboveproportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes, and whenthe carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour in the stock, andsimmer gently until they are nearly tender. Then put into anotherstewpan a small piece of butter; dredge in about a tablespoonful offlour; stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown colour, add theliquor that the carrots have been boiling in; let this just boil up, pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan, and let them finishsimmering until quite tender. Serve very hot. 

This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of roastpork, sausages, &c. &c. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. To 8d. Per bunch of 18. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. 

 CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT. --These are crystallizable and uncrystallizable sugar, a little starch, extractive, gluten, albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red neuter principle, without odour or taste, called carotin. This vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular property of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or mucilage, combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and fruits from which jellies are prepared. 

STEWED CARROTS. 

1102. INGREDIENTS. --7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth, pepperand salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of cream, thickening of butter andflour. 

_Mode_. --Scrape the carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them into astewpan; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream; simmer till tender, and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes before serving, mix a little flour with about 1 oz. Of butter; thicken the gravy withthis; let it just boil up, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to cookthem after they are sliced. 

_Average cost_, 6d. To 8d. Per bunch of 18. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. 

 NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT. --Sir H. Davy ascertained the nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts in one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give colour and flavour to butter; and it is excellent in stews, haricots, soups, and, when boiled whole, with salt beef. In the distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar in its composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual quantity is twelve gallons per ton. 

SLICED CARROTS. 

(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course, as a Side-dish. )

1103. INGREDIENTS. --5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar, 1 pintof weak stock, 3 oz. Of fresh butter, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equalsize, and boil them in salt and water, until half done; drain them well, put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil overa brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and aseasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well, and when the butter iswell mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the dishwhen it comes to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 6d. To 8d. Per bunch of 18. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. 

_Seasonable_. --Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time. 

 THE SEED OF THE CARROT. --In order to save the seed of carrots, the plan is, to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped roots in the taking-up season, and either preserve them in sand in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an open airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during severe frost, or earthing them over, and uncovering them in March following. The seed is in no danger from being injured by any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best preserved on the stalks till wanted. 

BOILED CAULIFLOWERS. 

[Illustration: BOILED CAULIFLOWER. ]

[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER. ]

1104. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off thedecayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Openthe flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally arefound about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and waterfor an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: thiswill effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them intofast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepanuncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowersare tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if largeenough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flower. 

_Time_. --Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25minutes, after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. 

CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE. 

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course. )

1105. INGREDIENTS. --3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or Frenchmelted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. Of butter; salt and water. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cutthe stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt andwater, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and becareful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break, and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. Drain them well, anddish them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready 1/2 pint ofsauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hotand quickly. 

_Time_. --Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25minutes, after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, --large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_, --1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. 

 CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI. --These are only forms of the wild Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only varieties of the Cauliflower. 

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. 

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course. )

1106. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint ofwhite sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. Of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drainthem and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready theabove proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over thecauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some raspedParmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, whichshould be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before thefire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of thesauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesancheese. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_, --3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish. 

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September. 

CELERY. 

[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS. ]

1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable isgenerally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let theroots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves beingcut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks orblemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide itlengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in acelery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water. The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips withthe point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from thetop. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to April. 

_Note_. --This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, sauces, &c. , and makes a very nice addition to winter salad. 

STEWED CELERY A LA CREME. 

1108. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint ofcream. 

_Mode_. --Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and wateruntil tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake itover the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over thesauce, and serve. 

_Time_. --Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20minutes. 

_Average cost_. 2d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to April. 

ALEXANDERS. --This plant is the _Smyrnium olustratum_ of science, and isused in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a nativeof Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. Itreceived its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina, " and is supposedto have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may, its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned. 

STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce). 

I. 

1109. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of celery, 1 oz. Of butter; to each 1/2gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of whitesauce, No. 537 or 538. 

_Mode_. --Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery, with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cutoff the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape theroot into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidlyuntil tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, andpour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipesNo. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast, and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished. 

_Time_. --Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20minutes, after the water boils. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to April. 

 ORIGIN OF CELERY. --In the marshes and ditches of this country there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots. " There is a variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large. It is called _Celeriae_, and is extensively used by the Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken. 

[Illustration: CELERY. ]. 

II. 

1110. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weakbroth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1blade of pounded mace, a _very little_ grated nutmeg; pepper and salt totaste. 

_Mode_. --Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it intolengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth, and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then addthe remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pourinto a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toastedbread. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from October to April. 

_Note_. --By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it alittle longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the abovestew may be converted into a puree of celery. 

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS. 

1111. INGREDIENTS. --3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls ofvinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber. 

_Mode_. --Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into _very thin_ slices, and_commence_ cutting from the _thick end_; if commenced at the stalk, thecucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far fromagreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper, and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumberabout, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment toboiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, andmakes a pretty garnish to lobster salad. 

[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS. ]

[Illustration: CUCUMBER. ]

_Average cost_, when scarce, 1s. To 2s. 6d. ; when cheapest, may be hadfor 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_. --Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; infull season in July, August, and September. 

 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS. --This family is not known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are abundant. They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan; but in America are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking, delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and indigestible. 

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE. 

1112. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. Of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump ofsugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness, and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; thendrain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter. Frythem over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over thema little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise tothe surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; butthe cucumber should not be broken. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, addthe parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the wholeto the point of boiling, and serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS. 

1113. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour, oil or butter. 

_Mode_. --Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equalthickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end ofthe cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour, and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning themabout until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve, piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement torump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top. 

_Time_. --5 minutes. _Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; infull season in July and August. 

 PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS. --The common cucumber is the C. Sativus of science, and although the whole of the family have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those which are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The fruits of this family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds, cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are slightly laxative if partaken of largely. In tropical countries, this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren islands, is of the finest quality. In China, Cashmere, and Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state, and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous. 

STEWED CUCUMBERS. 

1114. INGREDIENTS. --3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than1/2 pint of good brown gravy. 

_Mode_. --Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they areintended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them intoboiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes;then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, andlet them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Shouldthese be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim thesauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from thebeginning of March. 

 THE CHATE. --This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have. 

STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS. 

1115. INGREDIENTS. --6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, avery little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut theonions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock, and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be verylarge. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add thecayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, andserve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is afavourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March. 

 THE MELON. --This is another species of the cucumber, and is highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit. It was introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called the Musk Melon. 

ENDIVE. 

[Illustration: ENDIVE. ]

1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellentaddition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are notobtainable. It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looksremarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curledcelery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely. Inpreparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which aregenerally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, anddry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. This vegetable may also beserved hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressedthus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, asthat would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_, --1 head for a salad for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

 ENDIVE. --This is the _C. Endivium_ of science, and is much used as a salad. It belongs to the family of the _Compositae_, with Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus. Withering states, that before the stems of the common Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious. We are also informed by Villars that the children in Dauphiné universally eat the stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear, with great avidity. The fresh juice of these tender herbs is said to be the best solvent of bile. 

STEWED ENDIVE. 

1117. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a smalllump of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove thegreen part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightlysalted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it tillthere is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into astewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boiluntil the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may beascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add athickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boilup, and serve. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE. 

1118. INGREDIENTS. --6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. Of freshbutter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop itrather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a briskfire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mixall well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot. 

_Time_, --10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Per head. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS. 

1119. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of softwater, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted inthe above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer veryslowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand bythe side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, toallow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. Of butter and a seasoning ofpepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve:do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces. 

_Time_. --After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter, when other vegetables are scarce. 

_Note_. --Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boilingwater, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing. 

 HARICOTS AND LENTILS. --Although these vegetables are not much used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and _maigre_ days. At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in this country, they were probably much more generally used than at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity, possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be considered a sign of popery. 

HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

1120. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. Of freshbutter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, thejuice of 1/2 lemon. 

[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS. ]

_Mode_. --Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two incold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the precedingrecipe. If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little morecold, which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let them be verythoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, mincedparsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving the stewpanover the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and, when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in thelemon-juice, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

 HARICOT BEANS. --This is the _haricot blanc_ of the French, and is a native of India. It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown in fields. It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants, which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed. The haulm is both of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well if the working classes of this country were acquainted. There is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked, and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and a little milk or water and flour. From 3, 840 parts of kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1, 805 parts of matter analogous to starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage. 

HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS. 

1121. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sizedonions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a littleflour. 

_Mode_. --Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them inbutter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and addthe gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a pint ofharicot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions andgravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry theonions. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per quart. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

HORSERADISH. 

1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and isused for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish. Let the horseradishremain in cold water for an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp knifescrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end of theroot. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and theremainder use for garnishing the joint: it should be placed in tuftsround the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat. 

_Average cost_, 2d. Per stick. 

_Seasonable_ from October to June. 

[Illustration: HORSERADISH. ]

 THE HORSERADISH. --This belongs to the tribe _Alyssidae_, and is highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It has been recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints, and in cases of enfeebled digestion. Its principal use, however, is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive organs. The horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty per cent, in the number of its elements; and it is to the presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the radish is sometimes distilled, are turned into a black colour. It is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we have, and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in the form of wines, tinctures, and syrups. 

LETTUCES. 

1123. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads;should be nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom served inany other way, but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravyflavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them for a salad, carefullywash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed and outer leaves, anddry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, andeither halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces. The manner ofcutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they areintended. In France the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a clothand not washed, the cooks there declaring that the act of washing theminjuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant: in this casescrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughlywiped away. 

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from March to the end of August, but may be had all theyear. 

[Illustration: LETTUCE. ]

 THE LETTUCE. --All the varieties of the garden lettuce have originated from the _Lactuca sativa_ of science, which has never yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded that it is merely another form of some species, changed through the effects of cultivation. In its young state, the lettuce forms a well-known and wholesome salad, containing a bland pellucid juice, with little taste or smell, and having a cooling and soothing influence on the system. This arises from the large quantities of water and mucilage it contains, and not from any narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess. During the period of flowering, it abounds in a peculiar milky juice, which flows from the stem when wounded, and which has been found to be possessed of decided medicinal properties. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS. 

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish. )

1124. INGREDIENTS. --16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better thanthe buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of thestalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece offlannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with avery small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over alittle pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer shouldthe mushrooms be very large. Have ready a _very hot_ dish, pile themushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them totable quickly, with very _hot_ plates. 

_Time_. --20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each for large mushroom-flaps. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivatedmushrooms may be had at any time. 

 FUNGI. --These are common parasitical plants, originating in the production of copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium, or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on the mycelium; some of these enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at the base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a rounded body, which in a short time expands into the pileus or cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface, consist of parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole surface. Some of the cells, which are visible by the microscope, produce four small cells at their free summit, apparently by germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this is the development of the Agarics. 

BROILED MUSHROOMS. 

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish. )

1125. INGREDIENTS. --Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon-juice. 

[Illustration: BROILED MUSHROOMS. ]

_Mode_. --Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flanneland a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops:broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on avery hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season withpepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Placethe dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hotand quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode ofcooking than the buttons: the latter are better in stews. 

_Time_. --10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each for large mushrooms. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person. 

_Seasonable_. --Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivatedmushrooms may be had at any time. 

[Illustration: MUSHROOMS. ]

 VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM. --The common mushroom found in our pastures is the _Agaricus campestris_ of science, and another edible British species is _A. Georgii;_ but _A. Primulus_ is affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is _Morchella esculenta_, and _Tuber cibarium_ is the common truffle. There is in New Zealand a long fungus, which grows from the head of a caterpillar, and which forms a horn, as it were, and is called _Sphaeria Robertsii_. 

TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS. 

1126. INGREDIENTS. --To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter. 

_Mode_. --Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a littlelemon-juice; take them out and _dry_ them very carefully in a cloth. Putthe butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it ismelted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of pepper andsalt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until theirliquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry, but be careful innot allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done, putthem into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted forimmediate use, they will keep good a few days without being coveredover. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain thebutter from them, and they will be ready for use. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each. 

_Seasonable_. --Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivatedmushrooms may be had at any time. 

 LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM. --Mushrooms are to be met with in pastures, woods, and marshes, but are very capricious and uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained in one season where few or none were to be found in the preceding. They sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many species are employed by man as food; but, generally speaking, they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very nourishing. Many of them are also of suspicious qualities. Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate; and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when young, but become noxious when advanced in age. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS. 

1127. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. Of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint ofmushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a littlelemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from thewater with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpanwith the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon;cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, addgradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of aproper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms arenot perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove everyparticle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 9d. To 2s. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Meadow mushrooms in September and October. 

 TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS. --In order to obtain mushrooms at all seasons, several methods of propagation have been had recourse to. It is said that, in some parts of Italy, a species of stone is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two different kinds; the one is found in the chalk hills near Naples, and has a white, porous, stalactical appearance; the other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally moistened with water which has been used in the washing of mushrooms, and are thus supplied with their minute seeds. In this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called _spawn_, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it. When thus procured, it is usually made up for sale in quadrils, consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong smell of mushrooms. This is planted in rows, in a dry situation, and carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY. 

1128. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravyNo. 436, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436; cut nearly all thestalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into astewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve veryhot. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 9d. To 2s. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Meadow mushrooms in September and October. 

 ANALYSIS OF FUNGI. --The fungi have been examined chemically with much care, both by MM. Bracannot and Vauquelin, who designate the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin, and the soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic acids. 

BAKED SPANISH ONIONS. 

1129. INGREDIENTS. --4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water. 

_Mode_. --Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boilingwater slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then takethem out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paperseparately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, andeaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; orthey may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them. 

_Time_. --1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake. 

_Average cost_, medium-sized, 2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to January. 

[Illustration: ONION. ]

 THE GENUS ALLIUM. --The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot, belongs to the genus _Allium_, which is a numerous species of vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but many prefer it without this. 

BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES. 

1130. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. Ofmoist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (nottinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add thesugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black andthrows out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boilingvinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with awooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour. 

 PROPERTIES OF THE ONION. --The onion is possessed of a white, acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion has the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. The pulp of roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and emollient poultice to suppurating tumours. 

STEWED SPANISH ONIONS. 

1131--INGREDIENTS. --5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth orgravy. 

_Mode_. --Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of thetops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into astewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one onthe top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer _very gently_until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round, and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with alarge piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fireor hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy. 

_Time_. --To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large. 

_Average cost_. --medium-sized, 2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to January. 

_Note_. --Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roastshoulder of mutton. 

 ORIGIN OF THE ONION. --This vegetable is thought to have originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted, perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves. 

BOILED PARSNIPS. 

1132. INGREDIENTS. --Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the pointof the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they bevery large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a saucepanof boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly untiltender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take themup, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This vegetable is usuallyserved with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to tablewith the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots roundthe dish, as a garnish. 

_Time_. --Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 for each person. 

_Seasonable_ from October to May. 

[Illustration: THE PARSNIP. ]

 THE PARSNIP. --This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state, the root is white, mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony: when old, it has been known to cause vertigo. Willis relates that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state. In domestic economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly nutritious vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to be 79. 4 of water, 0. 9 starch and fibre, 6. 1 gum, 5. 5 sugar, and 2. 1 of albumen. 

BOILED GREEN PEAS. 

1133. INGREDIENTS. --Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1_small_ teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should beyoung, and not _gathered_ or _shelled_ long before it is dressed. Shellthe peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put theminto a saucepan with plenty of _fast-boiling_ water, to which salt and_moist sugar_ have been added in the above proportion; let them boilquickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, andbe careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them intoa colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centreof the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooksboil a small bunch of mint _with_ the _peas_, or garnish them with it, by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas bevery old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of sodamay be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must bevery sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have asmashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not theslightest occasion to use it. 

_Time_. --Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such asmarrowfats, &c. , 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 6d. Per peck; when first in season, 1s. To 1s. 6d. Per peck. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. 

 ORIGIN OF THE PEA. --All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the _Pisum sativum_, a native of the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of _Pisum arvense_. The Everlasting Pea is _Lathyrus latifolius_, an old favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage, plants, and roots. 

GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE. 

1134. INGREDIENTS. --2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. Of fresh butter, abunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour. 

_Mode_. --Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put theminto cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir themabout until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in acolander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredgeover them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them withboiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, oruntil there is no liquor remaining. Dip a small lump of sugar into somewater, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, workit together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, whichshould be boiling when it is put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, whenthe peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per peck. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. 

 VARIETIES OF THE PEA. --The varieties of the Pea are numerous; but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state. The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey, the late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties. 

STEWED GREEN PEAS. 

1135. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. Ofbutter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powderedsugar. 

_Mode_. --Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; putthese into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with nomore water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stewthe whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it awell-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When thepeas, &c. , are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, donot allow them to boil. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per peck. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August. 

[Illustration: GREEN PEA. ]

 THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA. --The well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them, and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey. They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

1136. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes. 

[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN. ]

_Mode_. --Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash themin lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a bakedpotato is by many persons considered the better part of it. Put theminto a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning themthree or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve them in a napkinimmediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, theyhave a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before thefire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done veryslowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter. 

_Time_. --Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cooloven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 to each person. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst newpotatoes are in season. 

 POTATO-SUGAR. --This sugary substance, found in the tubers of potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has not yet been crystallized. It resembles the sugar of grapes, has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats, and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes, yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a half pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, as good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of spirit, the pulp being given to cattle. 

TO BOIL POTATOES. 

1137. INGREDIENTS. --10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all theeyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water. Putthem into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, withsalt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take themup the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the waterafterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put thesaucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, toallow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, anddo not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture willevaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealyand dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficultto give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched, and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. Send them totable quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of thedish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back onthe potatoes. 

_Time_. --Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the waterboils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst newpotatoes are in season. 

_Note_. --To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put afolded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them, keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb themoisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling. 

 THE POTATO. --The potato belongs to the family of the _Solanaceae_, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics, and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic zones. The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number are narcotic, and many are deleterious. The roots partake of the properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active. The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and nutritive, as in those of the potato. The leaves are generally narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the case with the _Solanum nigrum_, which are used as a vegetable when cooked. 

TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS. 

1138. INGREDIENTS. --10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked inperfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on. InIreland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understoodthan in any country, they are always served so. Wash the potatoes well, and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt fromthem; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be asnearly the same size as possible. When thoroughly cleansed, fill thesaucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with coldwater, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled witha small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than whendrowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of thefire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascertain when they aredone by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover thesaucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking carenot to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put them in a very hotvegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly. After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, asthe steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes themwatery and insipid. In Ireland they are usually served up with the skinson, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest. 

_Time_. --Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutesafter the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, orlonger; 5 minutes to dry them. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst newpotatoes are in season. 

 ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO. --Next to the cereals, the potato is the most valuable plant for the production of human food. Its tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland, contain the following ingredients:--75. 52 per cent. Of water, 15. 72 starch, O. 55 dextrine, 3. 3 of impure saccharine matter, and 3. 25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a dried state the tuber contains 64. 2 per cent, of starch, 2. 25 of dextrine, 13. 47 of impure saccharine matter, 5. 77 of caseine, gluten, and albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13. 31 of fibre with coagulated albumen. 

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. 

1139. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, asthey are never good when they have been out of the ground some time. Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into_boiling_ water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil untiltender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away fromthem; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of thesaucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of awalnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are tooold to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in themidst of them. 

_Time_. --1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 1d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 3 lbs. For 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March. 

 POTATO STARCH. --This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is on this starch that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate constitution. It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of wheat. In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies, and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces. It accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal, if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as, salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root. 

TO STEAM POTATOES. 

1140. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes; boiling water. 

_Mode_. --This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so veryconvenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they arepeeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepanof boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily through them, they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly. 

_Time_. --20 to 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 large potatoes to each person. 

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are inseason. 

 USES OF THE POTATO. --Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years. It is generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose. Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green, are very unwholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the berries of the _S. Saponaceum_ are used in Peru for the same purpose. 

HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES. 

1141. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb. Allow 2tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. Of butter, milk. 

_Mode_. --Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps;stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten themwell; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven untilnicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn themout of the mould, and serve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 POTATO BREAD. --The manner in which this is made is very simple. The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the following manner:--A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove, the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan; because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will then eat very palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings, like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and an excellent cake, or _scon_, obtained. 

FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion). 

1142. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt. 

_Mode_. --Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the samesize as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in afrying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nicebrown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a clothbefore the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, aftersprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and, inFrance, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish. The remains ofcold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but theslices must be cut a little thicker. 

_Time_. --Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_, --6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES. 

1143. INGREDIENTS. --8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. Of butter, 2tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter and flour into a stewpan; stir over the fireuntil the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth andvinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them inthe gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be infrom 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered withthe potatoes is an improvement. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 PRESERVING POTATOES. --In general, potatoes are stored or preserved in pits, cellars, pies, or camps; but, whatever mode is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry; otherwise, they will surely rot; and a few rotten potatoes will contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of a trench, lined and covered with straw; the potatoes in it being piled in the shape of a house roof, to the height of about three feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a similar manner, covered up with the excavated mould of the pit. In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved in boxes, in houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one or two degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar: there, the temperature being always below that of active vegetation, they will not sprout; while, not being above one or two degrees below the freezing-point, the tubers will not be frostbitten. Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop, and keep the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy the vital principle, by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of temperature will reach them; and thus, being without air, they will remain upwards of a year without vegetating. 

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

1144. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes, salt and water; to every 6 potatoes allow1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt totaste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water byrecipe No. 1138; when they are done, drain them, let them cool; thenpeel and cut the potatoes into thick slices: if these are too thin, theywould break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper, salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well together, put inthe potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may be wellcovered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze in thelemon-juice, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them toheat in the sauce. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

1145. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes; to every lb. Of mashed potatoes allow 1oz. Of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, drain them, andlet them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; then peel them, and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with alarge fork beat them to a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt in theabove proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire. Whenthoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over thepotatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in thismanner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or before thefire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn them out, andbrown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makesthem heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be takento have them quite free from lumps. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_, --1 lb. Of mashed potatoes for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes. 

1146. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint ofgood broth or stock, 2 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly ina mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rubthe potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepanwith the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and itwill then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner thanmashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiledmutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when thelatter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used forragoûts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly, placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. Afterhaving browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean, and the ragout or fricassée poured in. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm thepurée. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 lb. Of cooked potatoes for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: SWEET POTATO. ]

 VARIETIES OF THE POTATO. --These are very numerous. "They differ, " says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm; in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in the length of the subterraneous _stolones_ to which the tubers are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in the soil which they prefer. " The earliest varieties grown in fields are, --the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served at table, and is there very highly esteemed. 

POTATO RISSOLES. 

1147. INGREDIENTS. --Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; whenliked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs. 

[Illustration: POTATO RISSOLES. ]

_Mode_. --Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a seasoningof pepper and salt, and, when liked, a little minced parsley. Roll thepotatoes into small balls, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fryin hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain before the fire, dishthem on a napkin, and serve. 

_Time_, --10 minutes to fry the rissoles. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased byadding finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when theseare liked. 

 QUALITIES OF POTATOES. --In making a choice from the many varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found, the best way is to get a sample and taste them, and then fix upon the kind which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture; and the Kidney and Bread-fruit are also good sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also a good potato, and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or Red-apple stands very high in favour. 

POTATO SNOW. 

1148. INGREDIENTS. --Potatoes, salt, and water. 

_Mode_. --Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible;boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender; drainand _dry them thoroughly_ by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put ahot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on tothis dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, andserve as hot as possible. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes. 

_Average cost_, 4s. Per bushel. 

_Sufficient_, --6 potatoes for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE POTATO AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD. --This valuable esculent, next to wheat, is of the greatest importance in the eye of the political economist. From no other crop that can be cultivated does the public derive so much benefit; and it has been demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat. 

TO DRESS SALSIFY. 

1149. INGREDIENTS. --Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. Of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of theiroutside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they arepeeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a littlelemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water, with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let themboil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrateseasily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good whitesauce or French melted butter. 

_Time_. --30 to 50 minutes. _Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Note_. --This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batterof a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be servedwith fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine saltsprinkled over the salsify. 

 SALSIFY. --This esculent is, for the sake of its roots, cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity existing in the properties of the plants of which it is composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or stimulant in their medical virtues. 

BOILED SEA-KALE. 

1150. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt. 

[Illustration: BOILED SEA-KALE. ]

_Mode_. --Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie itinto small bunches; put it into _boiling_ water, salted in the aboveproportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain, untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, alittle of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also beparboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2hour altogether. 

_Time_. --15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5minutes. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Per basket. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from February to June. 

[Illustration: SEA-KALE. ]

 SEA-KALE. --This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use, it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated, and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite, easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great amount of saccharine matter. 

BOILED SALAD. 

1151. INGREDIENTS. --2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce, and endive. 

[Illustration: FRENCH BEANS. ]

[Illustration: CHERVIL. ]

_Mode_. --Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut thecelery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-bowl ordish; pour over either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnishthe dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched endive, or a fewtufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less agreeable thanvegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, howeverthey may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove to some peopleindigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, may be addedto the above salad with advantage, as also slices of cold meat, poultry, or fish. 

_Seasonable_ from July to October. 

 ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES. --By the term Acetarious vegetables, is expressed a numerous class of plants, of various culture and habit, which are principally used as salads, pickles, and condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of comparative luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable for their coolness, or their agreeable flavour, than for their nutritive powers. 

 CAULIFLOWER. --The cauliflower is less indigestible than the cabbage; it possesses a most agreeable flavour, and is sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy. It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as it induces flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways; and, in selecting them, the whitest should be chosen; those tinged with green or yellow being of indifferent quality. 

SUMMER SALAD. 

1152. INGREDIENTS. --3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of mustard-and-cress, 10young radishes, a few slices of cucumber. 

[Illustration: SALAD IN BOWL. ]

_Mode_. --Let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, and, if atall stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two, which will very much refresh them. Wash and carefully pick them over, remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them thoroughly byswinging them gently in a clean cloth. With a silver knife, cut thelettuces into small pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers into thinslices; arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish, with themustard-and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of thesauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to beeaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, slicedcucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many other thingsthat taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish. Inmaking a good salad, care must be taken to have the herbs freshlygathered, and _thoroughly drained_ before the sauce is added to them, orit will be watery and thin. Young spring onions, cut small, are by manypersons considered an improvement to salads; but, before these areadded, the cook should always consult the taste of her employer. Slicesof cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient andquickly-made summer luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, will also befound exceedingly nice, mixed with it. 

_Average cost_, 9d. For a salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensivewhen the herbs are forced. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from May to September. 

 CUCUMBERS. --The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious nor digestible, and should be excluded from the regimen of the delicate. There are various modes of preparing cucumbers. When gathered young, they are called gherkins: these, pickled, are much used in seasonings. 

 [Illustration: CUCUMBER-SLICE. ]

 RADISHES. --This is the common name given to the root of the _Raphanus satious_, one of the varieties of the cultivated horseradish. There are red and white radishes; and the French have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the black are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the same constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and nitrogen; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of these that their flavour depends. They do not agree with people, except those who are in good health, and have active digestive powers; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause flatulency and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten to excess. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes, but rarely, boiled; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally, without cultivation; and may be occasionally met with in England as a weed, in similar places to where the wild turnip grows; it, however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes best is a deep open loam, or a well-manured sandy soil. 

[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES. ]

[Illustration: LONG RADISHES. ]

WINTER SALAD. 

1153. INGREDIENTS. --Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot, 3 or 4hard-boiled eggs, celery. 

_Mode_. --The above ingredients form the principal constituents of awinter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicelycontrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shredthe celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut awayall wormeaten pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free fromgrit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish;garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of which should becut in slices; and pour into the dish, but not over the salad, either ofthe sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad long before it isrequired for table, as, by standing, it loses its freshness and prettycrisp and light appearance; the sauce, however, may always be prepared afew hours beforehand, and when required for use, the herbs laid lightlyover it. 

_Average cost_, 9d. For a salad for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from the end of September to March. 

 SALADS. --Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the lettuce is the most generally used; several others, however, such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c. , are occasionally employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment on the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power upon that organ, they are usually dressed with some condiments, such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. Respecting the use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to oil, which is condemned by some and recommended by others. 

POTATO SALAD. 

1154. INGREDIENTS. --10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls oftarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper andsalt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley. 

_Mode_. --Cut the potatoes into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; putthese into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion;season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley; stir thesalad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, andit is ready to serve. This should be made two or three hours before itis wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be added to thissalad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHICKEN SALAD. --(See No. 931. )

GROUSE SALAD. --(See No. 1020. )

LOBSTER SALAD. --(See No. 272. )

TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode). 

1155. INGREDIENTS. --2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls ofsalt, 1 oz. Of butter, pepper to taste. 

[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROÛTONS. ]

_Mode_. --Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds areleft amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it beinggritty, act in the following manner:--Have ready two large pans or tubsfilled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughlywash it; then, _with the hands_, take out the spinach, and put it intothe _other tub_ of water (by this means all the grit will be left at thebottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly freefrom dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, withabout 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach fromburning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently witha wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled forrather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain itin a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinachinto a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stirthe whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, andgarnish with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm withthe butter. 

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach fromNovember to March. 

_Note_. --Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be addedto enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served withspinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should begarnished with sippets of toasted bread. --See coloured plate U. 

 VARIETIES OF SPINACH. --These comprise the Strawberry spinach, which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the Brassica tribe. 

SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Francaise. 

1156. INGREDIENTS. --2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2oz. Of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of poundedsugar, a very little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop itfinely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir over a gentlefire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remainingingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding thecream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, andgarnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to stew withthe cream. 

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach fromNovember to March. 

[Illustration: SPINACH. ]

 SPINACH. --This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the rich. 

 SPINACH. --This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the _Salsolaceae_, or saltworts, and is classified under the head of _Spirolobeae_, with leaves shaped like worms, and of a succulent kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in extratropical and temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in waste places, and among rubbish, and in marshes by the seashore. In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them are used as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties. 

FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH. 

1157. INGREDIENTS. --2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2oz. Of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy;when liked, a very little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, andwhen quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the waterthat hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a stewpan, and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire, and dredge inthe flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil _quickly_ for a few minutes, that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg is liked, gratesome to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy has driedaway a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer inthe gravy. 

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach fromOctober to February. 

_Note_. --For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach, dressed by theabove recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be turnedout quickly, and served very hot. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

(_Excellent_. )

1158. INGREDIENTS. --8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. Ofbutter, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thickslices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoningof pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the wholewith bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in amoderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. Thisvegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to allkinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, maybe baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Per basket. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced, much earlier. 

[Illustration: THE TOMATO. ]

 TOMATOES. --The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour, has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an _entremets_; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily. From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there they ripen. 

HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUREE OF TOMATOES. 

(See No. 529. )

[Illustration: STEWED TOMATOES. ]

STEWED TOMATOES. 

I. 

1159. INGREDIENTS. --8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Slice the tomatoes into a _lined_ saucepan; season them withpepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the liddown closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes areperfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and servewith any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a deliciousaccompaniment. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Per basket. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October; but may be had, forced, muchearlier. 

 ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO. --The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting. 

II. 

1160. INGREDIENTS. --8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickeningof butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a widestewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, andstew gently until they are tender, occasionally _carefully_ turningthem, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a littlebutter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up afterthe thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should beserved on a silver or plated vegetable-dish. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Per basket. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced, much earlier. 

 THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE. --This vegetable is a native of Mexico and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the best pickles. 

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL. 

1161. INGREDIENTS. --Truffles, buttered paper. 

_Mode_. --Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them inseveral waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or gritremains on them; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hotoven for quite an hour; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and servethem in a hot napkin. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_. --Not often bought in this country. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

[Illustration: TRUFFLES. ]

 THE COMMON TRUFFLE. --This is the _Tuber cibarium_ of science, and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity of their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon analysis, they are found not only to contain the usual components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen; from which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh. It was long ago observed by Dr. Darwin, that all the mushrooms cooked at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup, possessed an animal flavour; and soup enriched by mushrooms only has sometimes been supposed to contain meat. 

TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE. 

1162. INGREDIENTS. --12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon, 1carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne, 1/2 pint of stock. 

_Mode_. --Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a mustysmell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, untilperfectly clean. Put the bacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and theremaining ingredients; simmer these gently for an hour, and let thewhole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drainthem on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin, that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, andserve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock, sauces, &c. ; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes offowl, &c. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_. --Not often bought in this country. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

 THE TRUFFLE. --The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom. It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found in many parts of France: those of Périgord Magny are the most esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the species, --the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of little value. The red are very rare, and their use is restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles. Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection, they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes that opulence can offer to the epicure. " The Truffle grows in clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to their being found, from their rutting up the ground in search of them. 

ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES. 

1163. INGREDIENTS. --10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad-oil, pepper and saltto taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely-mincedgarlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thinslices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake them fornearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice, and sendthem to table very hot. 

_Time_. --Nearly 1 hour. 

_Average cost_. --Not often bought in this country. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

 WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND. --In this country, the common truffle is found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; and they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they are much larger and in greater perfection: they lose, however, much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have in England been tried to be propagated artificially, but without success. 

TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE. 

1164. INGREDIENTS. --10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. Of butter, 2tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne totaste. 

_Mode_. --Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of apenny-piece; put them into a sauté pan, with the parsley, shalot, salt, pepper, and 1 oz. Of butter; stir them over the fire, that they may allbe equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off someof the butter; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls ofgood gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a little cayenne; stir over thefire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_. --Not often bought in this country. 

_Seasonable_ from November to March. 

 USES OF THE TRUFFLE. --Like the Morel, truffles are seldom eaten alone, but are much used in gravies, soups, and ragoûts. They are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to powder, form a useful culinary ingredient; they, however, have many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their wholesomeness is, perhaps, questionable, and they should be eaten with moderation. 

BOILED TURNIPS. 

1165. INGREDIENTS. --Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide theminto quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the aboveproportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork, and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain, and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton, but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice andyoung, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above. 

_Time_. --Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per bunch. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had all the year; but in spring only useful forflavouring gravies, &c. 

[Illustration: TURNIPS. ]

 THE TURNIP. --This vegetable is the _Brassica Rapa_ of science, and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they, and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest variety, but it is too coarse for the table. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

1166. INGREDIENTS. --10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of waterallow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. Of butter, cayenne or whitepepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boilingwater, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; thendrain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible bypressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free fromwater, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and putthem into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, orcayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over thefire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips arethoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after theturnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both thecolour and flavour of this vegetable. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warmthem through. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per bunch. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had all the year; but in spring only good forflavouring gravies. 

 VEGETABLES REDUCED TO PURÉE. --Persons in the flower of youth, having healthy stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience, save, of course, in excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the period of youth: the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment. Physical exercise gives an appetite, which it is necessary to satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the gastric organs. As old proverb says, "At twenty one can digest iron. " But for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it is quite otherwise. Then the gastric power has considerably diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the process of digestion is consequently slower, and the least excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with difficulty, should eat them reduced to a pulp or purée, that is to say, with their skins and tough fibres removed. Subjected to this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create flatulence and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience has established the rule, that nourishment is not complete without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would also add, that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety: variety pleases the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is fatigued by looking always on one object, the ear by listening to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the same with the stomach: consequently, variety of food is one of the essentials for securing good digestion. 

GERMAN MODE OF COOKING TURNIPS. 

1167. INGREDIENTS. --8 large turnips, 3 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt totaste, rather more than 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonfulof flour. 

_Mode_. --Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, afterhaving pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper andsalt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the broth, andsimmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown the aboveproportion of flour with a little butter; add this to the turnips, letthem simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is usually sentto table with this vegetable, and may be cooked with the turnips byplacing it in the midst of them: the meat would then be very delicious, as, there being so little liquid with the turnips, it would almost besteamed, and consequently very tender. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. Per bunch. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --May be had all the year. 

 TURNIPS. --Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet. The best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage, uniting with the aroma a slightly acid quality, which is completely neutralized in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft, porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad. 

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE. 

(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish. )

1168. INGREDIENTS. --7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of whitesauce, No. 538 or 539. 

_Mode_. --Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles; boilthem in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter, untiltender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour overthe white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to which has beenadded a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other vegetables arescarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish: whenapproved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to boil the turnips. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per bunch. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 side-dish. _Seasonable_ in winter. 

 THE FRENCH NAVET. --This is a variety of the turnip; but, instead of being globular, has more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when stewed in gravy, they are greatly relished. This flavour resides in the rind, which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a yellowish-white colour, and is sometimes imported to the London market. 

BOILED TURNIP GREENS. 

1169. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens. 

_Mode_. --Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off allthe decayed and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches, and put theminto plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep themboiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and whentender, pour them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in avegetable-dish, remove the string that the greens were tied with, andserve. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. For a dish for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in March, April, and May. 

 CABBAGE, TURNIP-TOPS, AND GREENS. --All the cabbage tribe, which comprises coleworts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young, when they have a rapid growth; but, if they have stood the summer, in order to be tender, they should be allowed to have a touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is heavy, and a long time digesting, which has led to a belief that it is very nourishing. It is only fit food for robust and active persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it. Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways: it serves as a garniture to several recherché dishes, --partridge and cabbage for example. Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish; but only a good stomach can digest it. 

BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW. 

1170. INGREDIENTS. --To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heapedtablespoonful of salt; vegetable marrows. 

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW ON TOAST. ]

_Mode_. --Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the aboveproportion; put in the marrows after peeling them, and boil them untilquite tender. Take them up with a slice, halve, and, should they be verylarge, quarter them. Dish them on toast, and send to table with them atureen of melted butter, or, in lieu of this, a small pat of saltbutter. Large vegetable marrows may be preserved throughout the winterby storing them in a dry place; when wanted for use, a few slices shouldbe cut and boiled in the same manner as above; but, when once begun, themarrow must be eaten quickly, as it keeps but a short time after it iscut. Vegetable marrows are also very delicious mashed: they should beboiled, then drained, and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat themin a saucepan, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small piece ofbutter, and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as agarnish. 

_Time_. --Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20 minutes; old ones, 1/2 to 3/4hour. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. Per dozen. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 moderate-sized marrow for each person. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be preserved allthe winter. 

FRIED VEGETABLE MARROW. 

1171. INGREDIENTS. --3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and breadcrumbs, hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water; thendrain them and cut them in quarters, and take out the seeds. Whenthoroughly drained, brush the marrows over with egg, and sprinkle withbread crumbs; have ready some hot lard, fry the marrow in this, and, when of a nice brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, andserve. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. Per dozen. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. 

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW. ]

 THE VEGETABLE MARROW. --This vegetable is now extensively used, and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the _C. Ovifera_ of science, and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash, is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of the cucumber. 

CUT VEGETABLES FOR SOUPS, &c. 

[Illustration: VEGETABLE-CUTTER. ]

1172. The annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vegetablesfor soups, ragouts, stews, &c. ; carrots and turnips being the usualvegetables for which this utensil is used. Cut the vegetables intoslices about 1/4 inch in thickness, stamp them out with the cutter, andboil them for a few minutes in salt and water, until tender. Turnipsshould be cut in rather thicker slices than carrots, on account of theformer boiling more quickly to a pulp than the latter. 

 CARROTS. --Several species of carrots are cultivated, --the red, the yellow, and the which. Those known as the Crecy carrots are considered the best, and are very sweet. The carrot has been classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables, and as difficult of digestion. When the root becomes old, it is almost as hard as wood; but the young carrot, which has not reached its full growth, is tender, relishing, nutritious, and digests well when properly cooked. 

VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE. 

1173. INGREDIENTS. --4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, 1/2 pint of whitesauce, No. 539. 

[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE. ]

_Mode_. --Pare the marrows; cut them in halves, and shape each half atthe top in a point, leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand uprightin the dish. Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender; take themup very carefully, and arrange them on a hot dish. Have ready 1/2 pintof white sauce, made by recipe No. 539; pour this over the marrows, andserve. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. Per dozen. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. 

BOILED INDIAN WHEAT or MAIZE. 

1174. INGREDIENTS. --The ears of young and green Indian wheat; to every1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious dishesbrought to table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain; and wewonder that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is not invariablycultivated. Our sun, it is true, possesses hardly power sufficient toripen maize; but, with well-prepared ground, and in a favourableposition, it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumnto serve as a vegetable. The outside sheath being taken off and thewaving fibres removed, let the ears be placed in boiling water, wherethey should remain for about 25 minutes (a longer time may be necessaryfor larger ears than ordinary); and, when sufficiently boiled and welldrained, they may be sent to table whole, and with a piece of toastunderneath them. Melted butter should be served with them. 

_Time_. --25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_. --Seldom bought. 

_Sufficient_, --1 ear for each person. _Seasonable_ in autumn. 

_Note_. --William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, wasa great cultivator and admirer of maize, and constantly ate it as avegetable, boiled. We believe he printed a special recipe for it, but wehave been unable to lay our hands on it. Mr. Buchanan, the presentpresident of the United States, was in the habit, when ambassador here, of receiving a supply of Indian corn from America in hermetically-sealedcases; and the publisher of this work remembers, with considerablesatisfaction, his introduction to a dish of this vegetable, when inAmerica. He found it to combine the excellences of the young green peaand the finest asparagus; but he felt at first slightly awkward inholding the large ear with one hand, whilst the other had to be employedin cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXVI. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 

1175. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, familiar as they may be, and unimportant asthey may be held in the estimation of some, are yet intimately connectedwith the development of agricultural resources in reference to thecereal grasses. When they began to be made is uncertain; but we maysafely presume, that a simple form of pudding was amongst the firstdishes made after discovering a mode of grinding wheat into flour. Traditional history enables us to trace man back to the time of theDeluge. After that event he seems to have recovered himself in thecentral parts of Asia, and to have first risen to eminence in the artsof civilization on the banks of the Nile. From this region, Greece, Carthage, and some other parts along the shores of the MediterraneanSea, were colonized. In process of time, Greece gave to the Romans thearts which she had thus received from Egypt, and these subsequentlydiffused them over Europe. How these were carried to or developed inIndia and China, is not so well ascertained; and in America theirancient existence rests only on very indistinct traditions. As to whowas the real discoverer of the use of corn, we have no authenticknowledge. The traditions of different countries ascribe it to variousfabulous personages, whose names it is here unnecessary to introduce. InEgypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly; for Abraham, and afterhim Jacob, had recourse to that country for supplies during times offamine. 

1176. THE HABITS OF A PEOPLE, to a great extent, are formed by theclimate in which they live, and by the native or cultivated productionsin which their country abounds. Thus we find that the agriculturalproduce of the ancient Egyptians is pretty much the same as that of thepresent day, and the habits of the people are not materially altered. InGreece, the products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds ofgrains and legumes as are cultivated at present, with the vine, the fig, the olive, the apple, and other fruits. So with the Romans, and so withother nations. As to the different modes of artificially preparing thoseto please the taste, it is only necessary to say that they arise fromthe universal desire of novelty, characteristic of man in thedevelopment of his social conditions. Thus has arisen the whole scienceof cookery, and thus arose the art of making puddings. The porridge ofthe Scotch is nothing more than a species of hasty pudding, composed ofoatmeal, salt, and water; and the "red pottage" for which Esau sold hisbirthright, must have been something similar. The barley-gruel of theLacedaemonians, of the Athenian gladiators and common people, was thesame, with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond thesimplicity of Scottish fare. Here is the ancient recipe for the Atheniannational dish:--"Dry near the fire, in the oven, twenty pounds ofbarley-flour; then parch it; add three pounds of linseed-meal, half apound of coriander-seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of waternecessary. " To this sometimes a little millet was added, in order togive the paste greater cohesion and delicacy. 

1177. OATMEAL AMONGST THE GREEKS AND ROMANS was highly esteemed, as wasalso rice, which they considered as beneficial to the chest. They alsoheld in high repute the Irion, or Indian wheat of the moderns. The flourof this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding, and, parched orroasted, as eaten with a little salt. The Spelt, or Red wheat, waslikewise esteemed, and its flour formed the basis of the Carthaginianpudding, for which we here give the scientific recipe:--"Put a pound ofred-wheat flour into water, and when it has steeped some time, transferit to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds of cream cheese, half a pound ofhoney, and one egg. Beat the whole together, and cook it on a slow firein a stewpan. " Should this be considered unpalatable, another form hasbeen recommended. "Sift the flour, and, with some water, put it into awooden vessel, and, for ten days, renew the water twice each day. At theend of that period, press out the water and place the paste in anothervessel. It is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees, andpassed through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last operation, thendry the mass in the sun and boil it in milk. Season according to taste. "These are specimens of the puddings of antiquity, and this last recipewas held in especial favour by the Romans. 

1178. HOWEVER GREAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE QUALIFICATIONS of the ancients, however, in the art of pudding-making, we apprehend that suchpreparations as gave gratification to their palates, would havegenerally found little favour amongst the insulated inhabitants of GreatBritain. Here, from the simple suet dumpling up to the most complicatedChristmas production, the grand feature of substantiality is primarilyattended to. Variety in the ingredients, we think, is held only ofsecondary consideration with the great body of the people, provided thatthe whole is agreeable and of sufficient abundance. 

1179. ALTHOUGH FROM PUDDINGS TO PASTRY is but a step, it requires ahigher degree of art to make the one than to make the other. Indeed, pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science. Itunceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight aswell as to the taste; with erecting graceful monuments, miniaturefortresses, and all kinds of architectural imitations, composed of thesweetest and most agreeable products of all climates and countries. At avery early period, the Orientals were acquainted with the art ofmanipulating in pastry; but they by no means attained to the taste, variety, and splendour of design, by which it is characterized amongstthe moderns. At first it generally consisted of certain mixtures offlour, oil, and honey, to which it was confined for centuries, evenamong the southern nations of the European continent. At thecommencement of the middle ages, a change began to take place in the artof mixing it. Eggs, butter, and salt came into repute in the making ofpaste, which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat, seasoned withspices. This advance attained, the next step was to inclose cream, fruit, and marmalades; and the next, to build pyramids and castles; whenthe summit of the art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have beenachieved. 

DIRECTIONS IN CONNECTION WITH THE MAKING OF PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 

1180. A few general remarks respecting the various ingredients of whichpuddings and pastry are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary tothe recipes in this department of Household Management. 

1181. _Flour_ should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, andsifted before being used; if in the least damp, the paste made from itwill certainly be heavy. 

1182. _Butter_, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt, and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water andbuttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy. 

1183. _Lard_ should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained bycutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard isgood. 

1184. _Suet_ should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, andquite sweet; during the process of chopping, it should be lightlydredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is considered the best; but veal suet, or the outside fat of aloin or neck of mutton, makes good crusts; as also the skimmings inwhich a joint of mutton has been boiled, but _without_ vegetables. 

1185. _Clarified Beef Dripping_, directions for which will be found inrecipes Nos. 621 and 622, answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixingwith it a small quantity of moist sugar; but care must be taken to usethe dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable flavour will be impartedto the paste. 

1186. Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making; all theutensils used should be perfectly free from dust and dirt, and thethings required for pastry, kept entirely for that purpose. 

[Illustration: PASTE-BOARD AND ROLLING-PIN. ]

1187. In mixing paste, add the water very gradually, work the wholetogether with the knife-blade, and knead it until perfectly smooth. Those who are inexperienced in pastry-making, should work the butter inby breaking it in small pieces and covering the paste rolled out. Itshould then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded over and rolledout very thin again: this process must be repeated until all the butteris used. 

[Illustration: PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OFPIE-CRUSTS. ]

1188. The art of making paste requires much practice, dexterity, andskill: it should be touched as lightly as possible, made with cool handsand in a cool place (a marble slab is better than a board for thepurpose), and the coolest part of the house should be selected for theprocess during warm weather. 

1189. To insure rich paste being light, great expedition must be used inthe making and baking; for if it stand long before it is put in theoven, it becomes flat and heavy. 

[Illustration: PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER. ]

[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER. ]

1190. _Puff-paste_ requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it wouldblacken the crust; on the other hand, if the oven be too slack, thepaste will be soddened, and will not rise, nor will it have any colour. Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked puddings, pattypans, &c. , should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put inthem: things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper. Raised-pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste glazed must haverather a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched. It is better to icetarts, &c. When they are three-parts baked. 

[Illustration: PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED. ]

[Illustration: PIE-DISH. ]

[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD. ]

[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN. ]

1191. To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree forpuff-paste, put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking thewhole, and then the heat can thus be judged of. 

1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, asone bad article will taint the whole mixture. 

1193. When the _freshness_ of eggs is _doubtful_, break each oneseparately in a cup, before mixing them altogether. Should there be abad one amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with thegood ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks and whitesbeaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter. 

1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed, pressed in acloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; theyshould then be picked carefully over, and _every piece of grit or stone_removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling waterover them, and then dry them before the fire. 

1195. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. Toinsure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, and add the remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very lumpy, itmay be strained through a hair sieve. 

1196. _All boiled puddings_ should be put on in _boiling water_, whichmust not be allowed to stop simmering, and the pudding must always becovered with the water; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filledup. 

[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD. ]

1197. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottomof the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and setthe pan _on a trivet_ over the fire. If a mould is used, this precautionis not necessary; but care must be taken to keep the pudding wellcovered with water. 

1198. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot, dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere toit. Great expedition is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, bystanding, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly. 

[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD. ]

1199. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins, shouldbe always buttered before the mixture is put in them, and they should beput into the saucepan directly they are filled. 

1200. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness ofpudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this particular, the outsides ofboiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeably. As soon as possibleafter it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, andthen well washed, without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should bedried out of doors, then folded up and kept in a dry place. When wantedfor use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour. 

[Illustration: PUDDING-BASIN. ]

1201. The _dry ingredients_ for puddings are better for being mixed sometime before they are wanted; the liquid portion should only be addedjust before the pudding is put into the saucepan. 

1202. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of puddings;but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavourshould not be detected. 

1203. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of thedish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them finesifted sugar. 

1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet theoutside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of whitepaper until thoroughly cooked: this prevents them from getting burnt. 

[Illustration]

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

VERY GOOD PUFF-PASTE. 

1205. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1 lb. Of butter, and notquite 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Carefully weigh the flour and butter, and have the exactproportion; squeeze the butter well, to extract the water from it, andafterwards wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture may remain. Siftthe flour; see that it is perfectly dry, and proceed in the followingmanner to make the paste, using a very _clean_ paste-board androlling-pin:--Supposing the quantity to be 1 lb. Of flour, work thewhole into a smooth paste, with not quite 1/2 pint of water, using aknife to mix it with: the proportion of this latter ingredient must beregulated by the discretion of the cook; if too much be added, thepaste, when baked, will be tough. Roll it out until it is of an equalthickness of about an inch; break 4 oz. Of the butter into small pieces;place these on the paste, sift over it a little flour, fold it over, roll out again, and put another 4 oz. Of butter. Repeat the rolling andbuttering until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, or equalquantities of flour and butter have been used. Do not omit, every timethe paste is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over that and therolling-pin, to prevent both from sticking. Handle the paste as lightlyas possible, and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin. Thenext thing to be considered is the oven, as the baking of pastryrequires particular attention. Do not put it into the oven until it issufficiently hot to raise the paste; for the best-prepared paste, if notproperly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the paste as often asrolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white ofan egg, assists it to rise in _leaves_ or _flakes_. As this is the greatbeauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try this method. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. Per lb. 

 BUTTER. --About the second century of the Christian era, butter was placed by Galen amongst the useful medical agents; and about a century before him, Dioscorides mentioned that he had noticed that fresh butter, made of ewes' and goats' milk, was served at meals instead of oil, and that it took the place of fat in making pastry. Thus we have undoubted authority that, eighteen hundred years ago, there existed a knowledge of the useful qualities of butter. The Romans seem to have set about making it much as we do; for Pliny tells us, "Butter is made from milk; and the use of this element, so much sought after by barbarous nations, distinguished the rich from the common people. It is obtained principally from cows' milk; that from ewes is the fattest; goats also supply some. It is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with narrow openings: a little water is added. "

MEDIUM PUFF-PASTE. 

1206. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 8 oz. Of butter, 4 oz. Of lard, not quite 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --This paste may be made by the directions in the precedingrecipe, only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion ofit. Mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite 1/2 pint of water;then roll it out 3 times, the first time covering the paste with butter, the second with lard, and the third with butter. Keep the rolling-pinand paste slightly dredged with flour, to prevent them from sticking, and it will be ready for use. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

 BUTTER IN HASTE. --In his "History of Food, " Soyer says that to obtain butter instantly, it is only necessary, in summer, to put new milk into a bottle, some hours after it has been taken from the cow, and shake it briskly. The clots which are thus formed should be thrown into a sieve, washed and pressed together, and they constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can possibly be made. 

COMMON PASTE, for Family Pies. 

1207. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/4 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, rather morethan 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter lightly into the flour, and mix it to a smoothpaste with the water; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will be ready foruse. This paste may be converted into an excellent short crust for sweettart, by adding to the flour, after the butter is rubbed in, 2tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

 TO KEEP BUTTER FRESH. --One of the best means to preserve butter fresh is, first to completely press out all the buttermilk, then to keep it under water, renewing the water frequently, and to remove it from the influence of heat and air, by wrapping it in a wet cloth. 

FRENCH PUFF-PASTE, or FEUILLETAGE. 

(Founded on M. Ude's Recipe. )

1208. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of flour and butter--say 1 lb. Ofeach; 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than1/4 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Weigh the flour; ascertain that it is perfectly _dry_, and siftit; squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean clothtill there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the paste-board, work lightly into it 2 oz. Of the butter, and then make a hole in thecentre; into this well put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about 1/4pint of water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regulatedby the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of it);knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll itout square to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Presuming that the butteris perfectly free from moisture, and _as cool_ as possible, roll it intoa ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; fold the paste overthe butter all round, and secure it by wrapping it well all over. Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it isquite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through, and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during theprocess of making it. This rolling gives it the _first_ turn. Now foldthe paste in three, and roll out again, and, should the weather be verywarm, put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the severalturns; for, unless this is particularly attended to, the paste will bespoiled. Roll out the paste again _twice_, put it by to cool, then rollit out _twice_ more, which will make 6 _turnings_ in all. Now fold thepaste in two, and it will be ready for use. If properly baked and wellmade, this crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5or 6 inches. The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance, as the ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention mustalso be paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a liquidand soft state, the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook bedexterous enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a muchbetter appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butterinto 4 parts, and placing it over the rolled-out paste; but, untilexperience has been acquired, we recommend puff-paste made by recipe No. 1205. The above paste is used for vols-au-vent, small articles ofpastry, and, in fact, everything that requires very light crust. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

 WHAT TO DO WITH RANCID BUTTER. --When butter has become very rancid, it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and as soon as it has been well kneaded, after the cooling, in order to extract any water it may have retained, it should be put into brown freestone pots, sheltered from the contact of the air. The French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, which helps to destroy the tendency of the batter to rancidity. 

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE. 

1209. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow the yolk of 1 egg, thejuice of 1 lemon, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, cold water, 1 lb. Of freshbutter. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the yolk of the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt; mix thewhole with cold water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient)into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle it as littleas possible; then squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter, wring itin a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the butter on this, and foldthe edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out again to thethickness of 1/4 inch; fold over one third, over which again pass therolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square;place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a littleflour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again, as before. Flour a baking-sheet, put the paste on this, and let itremain on ice or in some cool place for 1/2 hour; then roll twice more, turning it as before; place it again upon the ice for 1/4 hour, give it2 more rolls, making 7 in all, and it is ready for use when required. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

VERY GOOD SHORT CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS. 

1210. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 3/4 lb. Of butter, 1tablespoonful of sifted sugar, 1/3 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour, after having ascertained thatthe latter is perfectly dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole into astiff paste, with about 1/3 pint of water. Roll it out two or threetimes, folding the paste over each time, and it will be ready for use. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 1d. Per lb. 

ANOTHER GOOD SHORT CRUST. 

1211. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 8 oz. Of butter, theyolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. Of sifted sugar, about 1/4 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the wholeas lightly as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs wellbeaten, and the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient must bejudged of by the size of the eggs: if these are large, so much will notbe required, and more if the eggs are smaller. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

 SUGAR AND BEETROOT. --There are two sorts of Beet, --white and red; occasionally, in the south, a yellow variety is met with. Beetroot contains twenty parts sugar. Everybody knows that the beet has competed with the sugar-cane, and a great part of the French sugar is manufactured from beet. Beetroot has a refreshing, composing, and slightly purgative quality. The young leaves, when cooked, are a substitute for spinach; they are also useful for mixing with sorrel, to lessen its acidity. The large ribs of the leaves are serviceable in various culinary preparations; the root also may be prepared in several ways, but its most general use is in salad. Some writers upon the subject have expressed their opinion that beetroot is easily digested, but those who have taken pains to carefully analyze its qualities make quite a contrary statement. Youth, of course, can digest it; but to persons of a certain age beet is very indigestible, or rather, it does not digest at all. It is not the sugary pulp which is indigestible, but its fibrous network that resists the action of the gastric organs. Thus, when the root is reduced to a puree, almost any person may eat it. 

 FRENCH SUGAR. --It had long been thought that tropical heat was not necessary to form sugar, and, about 1740, it was discovered that many plants of the temperate zone, and amongst others the beet, contained it. Towards the beginning of the 19th century, circumstances having, in France, made sugar scarce, and consequently dear, the government caused inquiries to be instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it. Accordingly, it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole vegetable kingdom; that it is to be found in the grape, chestnut, potato; but that, far above all, the beet contains it in a large proportion. Thus the beet became an object of the most careful culture; and many experiments went to prove that in this respect the old world was independent of the new. Many manufactories came into existence in all parts of France, and the making of sugar became naturalized in that country. 

COMMON SHORT CRUST. 

1212. INGREDIENTS. --To every pound of flour allow 2 oz. Of sifted sugar, 3 oz. Of butter, about 1/2 pint of boiling milk. 

_Mode_. --Crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible, addthe sugar, and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boilingmilk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a moderate oven. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

 QUALITIES OF SUGAR. --Sugars obtained from various plants are in fact, of the same nature, and have no intrinsic difference when they have become equally purified by the same processes. Taste, crystallization, colour, weight, are absolutely identical; and the most accurate observer cannot distinguish the one from the other. 

BUTTER CRUST, for Boiled Puddings. 

1213. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 6 oz. Of butter, 1/2pint of water. 

_Mode_. --With a knife, work the flour to a smooth paste with 1/2 pint ofwater; roll the crust out rather thin; place the butter over it in smallpieces; dredge lightly over it some flour, and fold the paste over;repeat the rolling once more, and the crust will be ready for use. Itmay be enriched by adding another 2 oz. Of butter; but, for ordinarypurposes, the above quantity will be found quite sufficient. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per lb. 

DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c. 

1214. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 6 oz. Of clarified beefdripping, 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --After having clarified the dripping, by either of the recipesNo. 621 or 622, weigh it, and to every lb. Of flour allow the aboveproportion of dripping. With a knife, work the flour into a smooth pastewith the water, rolling it out 3 times, each time placing on the crust 2oz. Of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste is lightlymade, if good dripping is used, and _not too much_ of it, it will befound good; and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine moistsugar, it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit pies. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per pound. 

 WATER:--WHAT THE ANCIENTS THOUGHT OF IT. --All the nations of antiquity possessed great veneration for water: thus, the Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water, and the Nile was an especial object of their adoration; the Persians would not wash their hands; the Scythians honoured the Danube; the Greeks and Romans erected altars to the fountains and rivers; and some of the architectural embellishments executed for fountains in Greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy. The purity of the water was a great object of the care of the ancients; and we learn that the Athenians appointed four officers to keep watch and ward over the water in their city. These men had to keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs, so that the water might be preserved pure and limpid. Like officers were appointed in other Greek cities. 

SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings. 

1215. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 5 or 6 oz. Of beef suet, 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Free the suet from skin and shreds; chop it extremely fine, andrub it well into the flour; work the whole to a smooth paste with theabove proportion of water; roll it out, and it is ready for use. Thiscrust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes, but when a better oneis desired, use from 1/2 to 3/4 lb. Of suet to every lb. Of flour. Somecooks, for rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, with a smallquantity of butter. It should then be laid on the paste in small pieces, the same as for puff-crust, and will be found exceedingly nice for hottarts. 5 oz. Of suet to every lb. Of flour will make a very good crust;and even 1/4 lb. Will answer very well for children, or where the crustis wanted very plain. 

_Average cost_, 5d. Per lb. 

PATE BRISEE, or FRENCH CRUST, for Raised Pies. 

1216. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1/2 saltspoonful ofsalt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of water, 6 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly dry, onthe paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the butter;work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the salt; workthe whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yolks and whites) andwater, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and let it be ratherstiff, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised, and that they donot afterwards tumble or shrink. 

_Average cost_, 1s. Per lb. 

_Note_. --This paste may be very much enriched by making it with equalquantities of flour and butter; but then it is not so easily raised aswhen made plainer. 

 WATER SUPPLY IN ROME. --Nothing in Italy is more extraordinary than the remains of the ancient aqueducts. At first, the Romans were contented with the water from the Tiber. Ancus Martius was the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, a distance of some 33, 000 paces. Appius Claudius continued the good work, and to him is due the completion of the celebrated Appian Way. In time, the gigantic waterways greatly multiplied, and, by the reign of Nero, there were constructed nine principal aqueducts, the pipes of which were of bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood. According to the calculation of Vigenerus, half a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into Rome every day, by upwards of 10, 000 small pipes not one-third of an inch in diameter. The water was received in large closed basins, above which rose splendid monuments: these basins supplied other subterranean conduits, connected with various quarters of the city, and these conveyed water to small reservoirs furnished with taps for the exclusive use of certain streets. The water which was not drinkable ran out, by means of large pipes, into extensive inclosures, where it served to water cattle. At these places the people wished their linen; and here, too, was a supply of the necessary element in case of fire. 

COMMON CRUST FOE RAISED PIES. 

1217. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1/2 pint of water, 1-1/2oz. Of butter, 1-1/2 oz. Of lard, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Put into a saucepan the water; when it boils, add the butterand lard; and when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of theflour; pour in the water gradually; beat it well with a wooden spoon, and be particular in not making the paste too soft. When it is wellmixed, knead it with the hands until quite stiff, dredging a littleflour over the paste and board, to prevent them from sticking. When itis well kneaded, place it before the fire, with a cloth covered over it, for a few minutes; it will then be more easily worked into shape. Thispaste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one, but is worked withgreater facility, and answers just as well for raised pies, for thecrust is seldom eaten. 

_Average cost_, 5d, per lb. 

LARD OR FLEAD CRUST. 

1218. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1/2 lb. Of lard orflead, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Clear the flead free from skin, and slice it into thin flakes;rub it into the flour, add the salt, and work the whole into a smoothpaste, with the above proportion of water; fold the paste over two orthree times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, roll it out, and it willbe ready for use. The crust made from this will be found extremelylight, and may be made into cakes or tarts; it may also be very muchenriched by adding more flead to the same proportion of flour. 

_Average cost_, 8d. Per lb. 

 NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES OF FLOUR. --The gluten of grain and the albumen of vegetable juices are identical in composition with the albumen of blood. Vegetable caseine has also the composition of animal caseine. The finest wheat flour contains more starch than the coarser; the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in gluten. Rye and rye-bread contain a substance resembling starch-gum (or dextrine, as it is called) in its properties, which is very easily converted into sugar. The starch of barley approaches in many properties to cellulose, and is, therefore, less digestible. Oats are particularly rich in plastic substances; Scotch oats are richer than those grown in England or in Germany. This kind of grain contains in its ashes, after deduction of the silica of the husks, very nearly the same ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice of flesh. Fine American flour is one of the varieties which is richest in gluten, and is consequently one of the most nutritious. 

ALMOND CHEESECAKES. 

1219. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of sweet almonds, 4 bitter ones, 3 eggs, 2oz. Of butter, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3oz. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar, with alittle rose- or spring-water; stir in the eggs, which should be wellbeaten, and the butter, which should be warmed; add the gratedlemon-peel and -juice, sweeten, and stir well until the whole isthoroughly mixed. Line some pattypans with puff-paste, put in themixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or rather less in a quick oven. 

_Time_. --20 minutes, or rather less. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for about 12 cheesecakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: ALMOND AND BLOSSOM. ]

 ALMONDS. --Almonds are the fruit of the _Amygdalus commenis_, and are cultivated throughout the whole of the south of Europe, Syria, Persia, and Northern Africa; but England is mostly supplied with those which are grown in Spain and the south of France. They are distinguished into Sweet and Bitter, the produce of different varieties. Of the sweet, there are two varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of Jordan and Valentia almonds. The former are imported from Malaga, and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than the latter, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are principally obtained from Morocco, and are exported from Mogador. 

ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course Dishes. 

1220. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1 lb. Of veryfinely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Blanch the almonds, and dry them thoroughly; put them into amortar, and pound them well, wetting them gradually with the whites of 2eggs. When well pounded, put them into a small preserving-pan, add thesugar, and place the pan on a small but clear fire (a hot-plate isbetter); keep stirring until the paste is dry, then take it out of thepan, put it between two dishes, and, when cold, make it into any shapethat fancy may dictate. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. For the above quantity. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 small dishes of pastry. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BITTER ALMONDS. --The Bitter Almond is a variety of the common almond, and is injurious to animal life, on account of the great quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains, and is consequently seldom used in domestic economy, unless it be to give flavour to confectionery; and even then it should he used with great caution. A single drop of the essential oil of bitter almonds is sufficient to destroy a bird, and four drops have caused the death of a middle-sized dog. 

BAKED ALMOND PUDDING. 

(_Very rich_. )

1221. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of almonds, 4 bitter ditto, 1 glass ofsherry, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. Of butter, 1 pintof cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the water;mix these with the butter, which should be melted; beat up the eggs, grate the lemon-rind, and strain the juice; add these, with the cream, sugar, and wine, to the other ingredients, and stir them well together. When well mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-paste, and bakefor 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --To make this pudding more economically, substitute milk for thecream; but then add rather more than 1 oz. Of finely grated bread. 

 USES OF THE SWEET ALMOND. --The kernels of the sweet almond are used either in a green or ripe state, and as an article in the dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery, and medicine, they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always be used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for advising this, is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and bark of the tree. When young and green, they are preserved in sugar, like green apricots. They furnish the almond-oil; and the farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed, forms the _pâte d'amandes_ of perfumers. In the arts, the oil is employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the basis of kalydor, macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other articles of that kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient. 

SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS. 

1222. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls ofcream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. 

[Illustration: ALMOND PUDDINGS. ]

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonfulof water; warm the butter, mix the almonds with this, and add the otheringredients, leaving out the whites of 2 eggs, and be particular thatthese are well beaten. Mix well, butter some cups, half fill them, andbake the puddings from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them out on a dish, and serve with sweet sauce. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 THE HUSKS OF ALMONDS. --In the environs of Alicante, the husks of almonds are ground to a powder, and enter into the composition of common soap, the large quantity of alkaline principle they contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said that in some parts of the south of France, where they are extensively grown, horses and mules are fed on the green and dry husks; but, to prevent any evil consequences arising from this practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats. 

ALMOND PUFFS. 

1223. INGREDIENTS. --2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 oz. Ofpounded sugar, 2 oz. Of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth paste;melt the butter, dredge in the flour, and add the sugar and poundedalmonds. Beat the mixture well, and put it into cups or very tinyjelly-pots, which should be well buttered, and bake in a moderate ovenfor about 20 minutes, or longer should the puffs be large. Turn them outon a dish, the bottom of the puff upper-most, and serve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

AUNT NELLY'S PUDDING. 

1224. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of treacle, 1/2 lb. Ofsuet, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, treacle, lemon-peel minced, and candied lemon-peel; add the cream, lemon-juice, and 2 well-beaten eggs; beat the pudding well, put it into a butteredbasin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable for a winter pudding. 

 TREACLE, OR MOLASSES. --Treacle is the uncrystallizable part of the saccharine juice drained from the Muscovado sugar, and is either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable through some defect in the process of boiling. As it contains a large quantity of sweet or saccharine principle and is cheap, it is of great use as an article of domestic economy. Children are especially fond of it; and it is accounted wholesome. It is also useful for making beer, rum, and the very dark syrups. 

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Plain Family Dish). 

1225. INGREDIENTS. --6 apples, 3/4 lb. . Of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar totaste. 

_Mode_. --Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividingthem, and make 1/2 lb. Of suet-crust by recipe No. 1215; roll the applesin the crust, previously sweetening them with moist sugar, and takingcare to join the paste nicely. When they are formed into round balls, put them on a tin, and bake them for about 1/2 hour, or longer shouldthe apples be very large; arrange them pyramidically on a dish, and siftover them some pounded white sugar. These may be made richer by usingone of the puff-pastes instead of suet. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or longer. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end ofJanuary. 

 USES OF THE APPLE. --It is well known that this fruit forms a very important article of food, in the form of pies and puddings, and furnishes several delicacies, such as sauces, marmalades, and jellies, and is much esteemed as a dessert fruit. When flattened in the form of round cakes, and baked in ovens, they are called beefings; and large quantities are annually dried in the sun in America, as well as in Normandy, and stored for use during winter, when they may be stewed or made into pies. In a roasted state they are remarkably wholesome, and, it is said, strengthening to a weak stomach. In putrid and malignant fevers, when used with the juice of lemons and currants, they are considered highly efficacious. 

APPLE CHEESECAKES. 

1226. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of apple pulp, 1/4 lb. Of sifted sugar, 1/4lb. Of butter, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and boil sufficient apples to make 1/2 lb. Whencooked; add to these the sugar, the butter, which should be melted; theeggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and take grated rind and juice of 1lemon; stir the mixture well; line some patty-pans with puff-paste, putin the mixture, and bake about 20 minutes. 

_Time_. --About 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, for the above quantity, with the paste, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for about 18 or 20 cheesecakes. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM. ]

 THE APPLE. --The most useful of all the British fruits is the apple, which is a native of Britain, and may be found in woods and hedges, in the form of the common wild crab, of which all our best apples are merely seminal varieties, produced by culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate climates it is very extensively cultivated, and in England, both as regards variety and quantity, it is excellent and abundant. Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and from France. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are universally admitted to be the finest of any; but unless selected and packed with great care, they are apt to spoil before reaching England. 

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

1227. INGREDIENTS. --6 apples, 3/4 lb. Of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar totaste. 

_Mode_. --Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividingthem; sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece of crust, made by recipeNo. 1211; be particular that the paste is nicely joined; put thedumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and put them intoboiling water. Keep them boiling from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; remove thecloths, and send them hot and quickly to table. Dumplings boiled inknitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table. The cloths should be made square, just large enough to hold onedumpling, and should be knitted in plain knitting, with _very coarse_cotton. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour, or longer should the dumplings be very large. 

_Average cost_, 11/2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March, but flavourless after the end ofJanuary. 

 LAMBSWOOL, or LAMASOOL. --This old English beverage is composed of apples mixed with ale, and seasoned with sugar and spice. It takes its name from _Lamaes abhal_, which, in ancient British, signifies the day of apple fruit, from being drunk on the apple feast in autumn. In France, a beverage, called by the Parisians _raisinée_, is made by boiling any given quantity of new wine, skimming it as often as fresh scum rises, and, when it is boiled to half its bulk, straining it. To this apples, pared and cut into quarters, are added; the whole is then allowed to simmer gently, stirring it all the time with a long wooden spoon, till the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor, and the whole forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to the taste, having a slight flavour of acidity, like lemon mixed with honey. 

RICH BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

I. 

1228. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of the pulp of apples, 1/2 lb. Of loafsugar, 6 oz. Of butter, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste. 

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce; put them into astewpan, with only just sufficient water to prevent them from burning, and let them stew until reduced to a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and to every1/2 lb. Add sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, and 6 well-beaten eggs. Beat these ingredients well together; then melt the butter, stir it tothe other things, put a border of puff-paste round the dish, and bakefor rather more than 1/2 hour. The butter should not be added until thepudding is ready for the oven. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

II. 

(_More Economical_. )

1229. INGREDIENTS. --12 large apples, 6 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil themuntil reduced to a pulp; then add the butter, melted, and the eggs, which should be well whisked. Beat up the pudding for 2 or 3 minutes;butter a pie-dish; put in a layer of bread crumbs, then the apple, andthen another layer of bread crumbs; flake over these a few tiny piecesof butter, and bake for about 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Note_. --A very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples, boiled and sweetened, with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel. Alayer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples, andthe pudding baked for 1/2 hour. 

 CONSTITUENTS OF THE APPLE. --All apples contain sugar, malic acid, or the acid of apples; mucilage, or gum; woody fibre, and water; together with some aroma, on which their peculiar flavour depends. The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw; but by the process of cooking, a great deal of this acid is decomposed and converted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds form a valuable addition to the dessert. A great part of the acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even after it is gathered, by natural process, termed maturation; but, when apples decay, the sugar is changed into a bitter principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive. Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when eaten; probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia of the cheese neutralizing its acid. 

RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING. 

1230. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. Of suet, 1/2 lb. Ofcurrants, 1/2 lb. Of apples, 1/2 lb. Of moist sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweetalmonds, 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet very fine; wash the currants, dry them, and pickaway the stalks and pieces of grit; pare, core, and chop the apple, andgrate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all theseingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat up the eggs, omitting the whites of three; stir these to the pudding, and when all iswell mixed, add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould;tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for 3hours. 

_Time_. --3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

 TO PRESERVE APPLES. --The best mode of preserving apples is to carry them at once to the fruit-room, where they should be put upon shelves, covered with white paper, after gently wiping each of the fruit. The room should be dry, and well aired, but should not admit the sun. The finer and larger kinds of fruit should not be allowed to touch each other, but should be kept separate. For this purpose, a number of shallow trays should be provided, supported by racks or stands above each other. In very cold frosty weather, means should be adopted for warming the room. 

BAKED APPLE PUDDING. 

(_Very Good_. )

1231. INGREDIENTS. --5 moderate-sized apples, 2 tablespoonfuls offinely-chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of milk, a little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk; add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and put this batter into a well-butteredpie-dish. Wipe the apples clean, but do not pare them; cut them inhalves, and take out the cores; lay them in the batter, rind uppermost;shake the suet on the top, over which, also grate a little nutmeg; bakein a moderate oven for an hour, and cover, when served, with sifted loafsugar. This pudding is also very good with the apples pared, sliced, andmixed with the batter. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

BOILED APPLE PUDDING. 

1232. INGREDIENTS. --Crust No. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 smallteaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls oflemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Make a butter-crust by recipe No. 1213, or a suet one by recipeNo. 1215, using for a moderate-sized pudding from 3/4 to 1 lb. Of flour, with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin; line it withsome of the paste; pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and fillthe basin with these; add the sugar, the lemon-peel and juice, and coverwith crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over thepudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water. Let it boil from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size; then turnit out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple puddings may alsobe boiled in a cloth without a basin; but, when made in this way, mustbe served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy. Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the dinner-hour israther uncertain, as it does not spoil by being boiled an extra hour;care, however, must be taken to keep it well covered with the water allthe time, and not to allow it to stop boiling. 

_Time_. --From 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size of the puddingand the quality of the apples. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_, made with 1 lb. Of flour, for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourless andscarce after February. 

APPLE TART OR PIE. 

1233. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. Ofunpared apples allow 2 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful offinely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Make 1/2 lb. Of puff-paste by either of the above-namedrecipes, place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish, and fill itwith apples pared, cored, and cut into slices; sweeten with moist sugar, add the lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water; coverwith crust, cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish, andbake in a hot oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or rather longer, should thepie be very large. When it is three-parts done, take it out of the oven, put the white of an egg on a plate, and, with the blade of a knife, whisk it to a froth; brush the pie over with this, then sprinkle upon itsome sifted sugar, and then a few drops of water. Put the pie back intothe oven, and finish baking, and be particularly careful that it doesnot catch or burn, which it is very liable to do after the crust isiced. If made with a plain crust, the icing may be omitted. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 lbs. Of apples for a tart for 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March; but the apples become flavourlessafter February. 

_Note_. --Many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie; somesay 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of beer, others the same quantity of sherry, which very much improve the taste; whilst the old-fashioned addition ofa few cloves is, by many persons, preferred to anything else, as also afew slices of quince. 

[Illustration: QUINCE. ]

 QUINCES. --The environs of Corinth originally produced the most beautiful quinces, but the plant was subsequently introduced into Gaul with the most perfect success. The ancients preserved the fruit by placing it, with its branches and leaves, in a vessel filled with honey or sweet wine, which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition. Quinces may be profitably cultivated in this country as a variety with other fruit-trees, and may be planted in espaliers or as standards. A very fine-flavoured marmalade may be prepared from quinces, and a small portion of quince in apple pie much improves its flavour. The French use quinces for flavouring many sauces. This fruit has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeable odour, taken singly; but when in any quantity, or when they are stowed away in a drawer or close room, the pleasant aroma becomes an intolerable stench, although the fruit may be perfectly sound; it is therefore desirable that, as but a few quinces are required for keeping, they should be kept in a high and dry loft, and out of the way of the rooms used by the family. 

CREAMED APPLE TART. 

1234. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-crust No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. Ofpared and cored apples, allow 2 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful ofminced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 pint of boiledcustard. 

_Mode_. --Make an apple tart by the preceding recipe, with the exceptionof omitting the icing. When the tart is baked, cut out the middle of thelid or crust, leaving a border all round the dish. Fill up with anicely-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and thepie is ready for table. This tart is usually eaten cold; is rather anold-fashioned dish, but, at the same time, extremely nice. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

APPLE SNOWBALLS. 

1235. INGREDIENTS. --2 teacupfuls of rice, apples, moist sugar, cloves. 

_Mode_. --Boil the rice in milk until three-parts done; then strain itoff, and pare and core the apples without dividing them. Put a smallquantity of sugar and a clove into each apple, put the rice round them, and tie each ball separately in a cloth. Boil until the apples aretender; then take them up, remove the cloths, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to boil the rice separately; 1/2 to 1 hour with theapple. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

APPLE TOURTE OR CAKE. 

(_German Recipe_. )

1236. INGREDIENTS. --10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of 1 smalllemon, 3 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 3/4 lb. Ofgood short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. Of sweet almonds. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and cut the apples into small pieces; putsufficient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin; add the lemon-peel, which should be finely minced, and the cream; stir these ingredientswell, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter; mix altogether, add thesliced apple, and let these be well stirred into the mixture. Line alarge round plate with the paste, place a narrow rim of the same roundthe outer edge, and lay the apples thickly in the middle. Blanch thealmonds, cut them into long shreds, and strew over the top of theapples, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, taking care that the almonds donot get burnt: when done, strew some sifted sugar over the top, andserve. This tourte may be eaten either hot or cold, and is sufficient tofill 2 large-sized plates. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 large-sized tourtes. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

 APPLES. --No fruit is so universally popular as the apple. It is grown extensively for cider, but many sorts are cultivated for the table. The apple, uncooked, is less digestible than the pear; the degree of digestibility varying according to the firmness of its texture and flavour. Very wholesome and delicious jellies, marmalades, and sweetmeats are prepared from it. Entremets of apples are made in great variety. Apples, when peeled, cored, and well cooked, are a most grateful food for the dyspeptic. 

ALMA PUDDING. 

1237. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of fresh butter, 1/2 lb. Of powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by degrees, thesugar, and mix both these well together; then dredge the flour ingradually, add the currants, and moisten with the eggs, which should bewell beaten. When all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed, buttera mould that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it down with a cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 5 hours; when turnedout, strew some powdered sugar over it, and serve. 

_Time_. --6 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED APRICOT PUDDING. 

1238. INGREDIENTS. --12 large apricots, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pintof milk, 3 oz. Of pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread crumbs;when half cold, add the sugar, the well-whisked yolks of the eggs, andthe sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until they are soft, and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the kernels, whichshould be well pounded in a mortar; then mix the fruit and otheringredients together, put a border of paste round the dish, fill withthe mixture, and bake the pudding from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. 

APRICOT TART. 

1239. INGREDIENTS. --12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste orshort crust. 

_Mode_. --Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put theminto a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or jar, bottom uppermost; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no water. Linethe edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and ornament the piein any of the usual modes. Bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to size;and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 minutes before the pie isdone, and put it into the oven again to set the glaze. Short crustmerely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before beingsent to table. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; green ones ratherearlier. 

_Note_. --Green apricots make very good tarts, but they should be boiledwith a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust. 

 APRICOTS. --The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated in almost every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a perfumed flavour, highly esteemed. A good apricot, when perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great excess. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked, without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. The apricot makes excellent jam and marmalade, and there are several foreign preparations of it which are considered great luxuries. 

BAKED OR BOILED ARROWROOT PUDDING. 

1240. INGREDIENTS. --2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1oz. Of butter, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moistsugar, a little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it into asmooth batter, moderately thick; put the remainder of the milk into astewpan with the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about 1/2 hour; whenit boils, strain it gently to the batter, stirring it all the time tokeep it smooth; then add the butter; beat this well in until thoroughlymixed, and sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-dish, round which has been placed a border of paste, grate a little nutmegover the top, and bake the pudding from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, in a moderateoven, or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered basin. Toenrich this pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just before it isput in the oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a tablespoonful of brandy. For a nursery pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients will befound quite superfluous, as also the paste round the edge of the dish. 

_Time_. --1 to 1-1/4 hour, baked or boiled. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 _ARROWROOT_. --In India, and in the colonies, by the process of rasping, they extract from a vegetable (_Maranta arundinacea_) a sediment nearly resembling tapioca. The grated pulp is sifted into a quantity of water, from which it is afterwards strained and dried, and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot. Its qualities closely resemble those of tapioca. 

A BACHELOR'S PUDDING. 

1241. INGREDIENTS. --4 oz. Of grated bread, 4 oz. Of currants, 4 oz. Ofapples, 2 oz. Of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, alittle grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and mince the apples very finely, sufficient, whenminced, to make 4 oz. ; add to these the currants, which should be wellwashed, the grated bread, and sugar; whisk the eggs, beat these up withthe remaining ingredients, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, put thepudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3hours. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from August to March. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING. 

(_Very Rich_. )

I. 

1242. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of puff-paste, 5 eggs, 6 oz. Of sugar, 1/4lb. Of butter, 1 oz. Of almonds, jam. 

_Mode_. --Cover a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of anykind of jam, 1/2 inch thick; put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin withthe white of 1, and beat these well; add the sifted sugar, the butter, which should be melted, and the almonds, which should be well pounded;beat all together until well mixed, then pour it into the dish over thejam, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

1243. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2oz. Of sugar, 3 oz. Of butter, 1 oz. Of pounded almonds, jam. 

_Mode_. --Put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish, then overthem a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred; mix the milk andeggs together; add the sugar, butter, and pounded almonds; beat fillwell together; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1hour. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_. 1s. 3d. To 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BARONESS PUDDING. 

(_Author's Recipe_. )

1244. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of suet, 3/4 lb. Of raisins weighed afterbeing stoned, 3/4 lb. Of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 saltspoonful ofsalt. 

_Mode_. --Prepare the suet, by carefully freeing it from skin, and chopit finely; stone the raisins, and cut them in halves, and mix both theseingredients with the salt and flour; moisten the whole with the aboveproportion of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding in afloured cloth, which has been previously wrung out in boiling water. Putthe pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil, withoutceasing, 4-1/2 hours. Serve merely with plain sifted sugar, a little ofwhich may be sprinkled over the pudding. 

_Time_. --4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable. 

_Note_. --This pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend. Therecipe was kindly given to her family by a lady who bore the title hereprefixed to it; and with all who have partaken of it, it is an especialfavourite. Nothing is of greater consequence, in the above directions, than attention to the time of boiling, which should never be _less_ thanthat mentioned. 

BARBERRY TART. 

1245. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of barberries allow 3/4 lb. Of lumpsugar; paste. 

[Illustration: LEAF IN PUFF-PASTE. ]

_Mode_. --Pick the barberries from the stalks, and put the fruit into astone jar; place this jar in boiling water, and let it simmer veryslowly until the fruit is soft; then put it into a preserving-pan withthe sugar, and boil gently for 15 minutes; line a tartlet-pan withpaste, bake it, and, when the paste is cold, fill with the barberries, and ornament the tart with a few baked leaves of paste, cut out, asshown in the engraving. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to bake the tart. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Per pint. 

_Seasonable_ in autumn. 

[Illustration: BARBERRY. ]

 BARBERRIES (_Berberris vulgaris_. )--A fruit of such great acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the different modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as a dry sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with vinegar, and are used for various culinary purposes. They are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of nice curled parsley, make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper-dishes, particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl à la Béchamel, the three colours, scarlet, green, and white, contrasting so well, and producing a very good effect. 

BAKED BATTER PUDDING. 

1246. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. Of butter, 4 eggs, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk; make theremainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, keeping the mixture wellstirred; add the butter, eggs, and salt; beat the whole well, and putthe pudding into a buttered pie-dish; bake for 3/4 hour, and serve withsweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. Baked in small cups, thismakes very pretty little puddings, and should be eaten with the sameaccompaniments as above. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit. 

1247. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3eggs, 2 oz. Of finely-shredded suet, 1/4 lb. Of currants, a pinch ofsalt. 

_Mode_. --Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to a smooth batter; add a littlesalt, the suet, and the currants, which should be well washed, picked, and dried; put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in amoderate oven for 1-1/4 hour. When fresh fruits are in season, thispudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, plums, red currants, gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the pudding must bethickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding, withfruit, is made in the same manner, by putting the fruit into a butteredbasin, and filling it up with batter made in the above proportion, butomitting the suet. It must be sent quickly to table, and coveredplentifully with sifted sugar. 

_Time_. --Baked batter pudding, with fruit, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; boiledditto, 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour, allowing that both are made with the aboveproportion of batter. Smaller puddings will be done enough in 3/4 or 1hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, with dried fruits. 

BOILED BATTER PUDDING. 

1248. INGREDIENTS. --3 eggs, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3tablespoonfuls of flour, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moistenit; carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in theremainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should bepreviously melted; keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch ofsalt, and when the batter is quite smooth, put it into a well-butteredbasin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into boiling water; move thebasin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to preventthe flour settling in any part, and boil for 1-1/4 hour. This puddingmay also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water;it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin. Sendthese puddings very quickly to table, and serve with sweet sauce, winesauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind: when the latter is used, alittle of it may be placed round the dish in small quantities, as agarnish. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ORANGE BATTER PUDDING. 

1249. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1-1/4 oz. Of loaf sugar, 3tablespoonfuls of flour. 

_Mode_. --Make the batter with the above ingredients, put it into awell-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour. Assoon as it is turned out of the basin, put a small jar of orangemarmalade all over the top, and send the pudding very quickly to table. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, with the marmalade, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding. 

BAKED BREAD PUDDING. 

1250. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 4oz. Of butter, 4 oz. Of moist sugar, 2 oz. Of candied peel, 6 bitteralmonds, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a stewpan, with the bitter almonds; let itinfuse for 1/4 hour; bring it to the boiling point; strain it on to thebread crumbs, and let these remain till cold; then add the eggs, whichshould be well whisked, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and beat thepudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed; line thebottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin, put in themixture, and bake for nearly 3/4 hour. 

_Time_. --Nearly 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --A few currants may be substituted for the candied peel, andwill be found an excellent addition to this pudding: they should bebeaten in with the mixture, and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish. 

VERY PLAIN BREAD PUDDING. 

1251. INGREDIENTS. --Odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread; to everyquart allow 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 3oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1-1/4 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Break the bread into small pieces, and pour on them as muchboiling water as will soak them well. Let these stand till the water iscool; then press it out, and mash the bread with a fork until it isquite free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart stir insalt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the above proportion; mix all welltogether, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish. Smooth the surfacewith the back of a spoon, and place the butter in small pieces over thetop; bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour, and serve very hot. Boilingmilk substituted for the boiling water would very much improve thispudding. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. , exclusive of the bread. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED BREAD PUDDING. 

1252. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, sugarto taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. Of butter, 3 oz. Of currants, 1/4 teaspoonful ofgrated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk boiling, and pour it on the bread crumbs; letthese remain till cold; then add the other ingredients, taking care thatthe eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed, picked, anddried. Beat the pudding well, and put it into a buttered basin; tie itdown tightly with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for1-1/4 hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve with sifted sugar. Anyodd pieces or scraps of bread answer for this pudding; but they shouldbe soaked overnight, and, when wanted for use, should have the waterwell squeezed from them. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BREAD. --Bread contains, in its composition, in the form of vegetable albumen and vegetable fibrine, two of the chief constituents of flesh, and, in its incombustible constituents, the salts which are indispensable for sanguification, of the same quality and in the same proportion as flesh. But flesh contains, besides these, a number of substances which are entirely wanting in vegetable food; and on these peculiar constituents of flesh depend certain effects, by which it is essentially distinguished from other articles of food. 

BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. 

1253. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of brown-bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1/2 lb. Of suet, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls ofbrandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Grate 3/4 lb. Of crumbs from a stale brown loaf; add to thesethe currants and suet, and be particular that the latter is finelychopped. Put in the remaining ingredients; beat the pudding well for afew minutes; put it into a buttered basin or mould; tie it down tightly, and boil for nearly 4 hours. Send sweet sauce to table with it. 

_Time_. --Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding. 

MINIATURE BREAD PUDDINGS. 

1254. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 2oz. Of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 1 teaspoonfulof finely-minced lemon-peel. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk boiling, pour it on to the bread crumbs, and letthem soak for about 1/2 hour. Beat the eggs, mix these with the breadcrumbs, add the remaining ingredients, and stir well until all isthoroughly mixed. Butter some small cups; rather more than half fillthem with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to1/2 hour, and serve with sweet sauce. A few currants may be added tothese puddings: about 3 oz. Will be found sufficient for the abovequantity. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 small puddings. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. 

1255. INGREDIENTS. --9 thin slices of bread and butter, 1-1/2 pint ofmilk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, 1/4 lb. Of currants, flavouring ofvanilla, grated lemon-peel or nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Cut 9 slices of bread and butter not very thick, and put theminto a pie-dish, with currants between each layer and on the top. Sweeten and flavour the milk, either by infusing a little lemon-peel init, or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla; well whisk the eggs, and stir these to the milk. _Strain_ this over the bread and butter, andbake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, or rather longer. This pudding maybe very much enriched by adding cream, candied peel, or more eggs thanstated above. It should not be turned out, but sent to table in thepie-dish, and is better for being made about 2 hours before it is baked. 

_Time_. --1 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BUTTER. --Butter is indispensable in almost all culinary preparations. Good fresh butter, used in moderation, is easily digested; it is softening, nutritious, and fattening, and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances sometimes used in its place. 

CABINET or CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING. 

1256. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of candied peel, 4 oz. Of currants, 4dozen sultanas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French roll, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon-rind, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 table-spoonfulsof sugar. 

[Illustration: CABINET PUDDING. ]

_Mode_. --Melt some butter to a paste, and with it, well grease the mouldor basin in which the pudding is to be boiled, taking care that it isbuttered in every part. Cut the peel into thin slices, and place thesein a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould, and fill in the spacesbetween with currants and sultanas; then add a few slices of sponge cakeor French roll; drop a few drops of melted butter on these, and betweeneach layer sprinkle a few currants. Proceed in this manner until themould is nearly full; then flavour the milk with nutmeg and gratedlemon-rind; add the sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which should bewell beaten. Beat this mixture for a few minutes; then strain it intothe mould, which should be quite full; tie a piece of buttered paperover it, and let it stand for 2 hours; then tie it down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. In takingit up, let it stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed;then quickly turn it out of the mould or basin, and serve with sweetsauce separately. The flavouring of this pudding may be varied bysubstituting for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds;and it may be made much richer by using cream; but this is not at allnecessary. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

A PLAIN CABINET or BOILED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. 

1257. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of raisins, a few thin slices of bread andbutter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/4 nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Butter a pudding-basin, and line the inside with a layer ofraisins that have been previously stoned; then nearly fill the basinwith slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off, and, in anotherbasin, beat the eggs; add to them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg;mix all well together, and pour the whole on to the bread and butter;let it stand 1/2 hour, then tie a floured cloth over it; boil for 1hour, and serve with sweet sauce. Care must be taken that the basin isquite full before the cloth is tied over. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CANARY PUDDING. 

1258. INGREDIENTS. --The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the weightof 2 eggs in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Melt the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil;stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, and graduallydredge in the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred; whisk the eggs;add these to the pudding; beat all the ingredients until thoroughlyblended, and put them into a buttered mould or basin; boil for 2 hours, and serve with sweet sauce. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED OR BOILED CARROT PUDDING. 

1259. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 4 oz. Of suet, 1/4 lb. Ofstoned raisins, 3/4 lb. Of carrot, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 3 oz. Of sugar, 3 eggs, milk, 1/4 nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp; add theremaining ingredients, and moisten with sufficient milk to make thepudding of the consistency of thick batter. If to be boiled, put themixture into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for2-1/2 hours: if to be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake for nearlyan hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and serve. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours to boil; 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

 CARROTS, says Liebig, contain the same kind of sugar as the juice of the sugar-cane. 

ROYAL COBURG PUDDING. 

1260. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. Of flour, 6 oz. Of sugar, 6 oz. Of butter, 6 oz. Of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated nutmeg totaste. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk, add theremaining ingredients _gradually_, and when well mixed, put it into fourbasins or moulds half full; bake for 3/4 hour, turn the puddings out ona dish, and serve with wine sauce. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHERRY TART. 

1261. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of cherries, 2 small tablespoonfuls ofmoist sugar, 1/2 lb. Of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211. 

_Mode_. --Pick the stalks from the cherries, put them, with the sugar, into a _deep_ pie-dish just capable of holding them, with a small cupplaced upside down in the midst of them. Make a short crust with 1/2 lb. Of flour, by either of the recipes 1210 or 1211; lay a border round theedge of the dish; put on the cover, and ornament the edges; bake in abrisk oven from 1/2 hour to 40 minutes; strew finely-sifted sugar over, and serve hot or cold, although the latter is the more usual mode. It ismore economical to make two or three tarts at one time, as the trimmingsfrom one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for another, andso much paste is not required as when they are made singly. Unless forfamily use, never make fruit pies in very _large_ dishes; select them, however, as deep as possible. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to 40 minutes. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

_Note_. --A few currants added to the cherries will be found to impart anice piquant taste to them. 

[Illustration: CHERRY. ]

 CHERRIES. --According to Lucullus, the cherry-tree was known in Asia in the year of Rome 680. Seventy different species of cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, which are distinguishable from each other by the difference of their form, size, and colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur Darned _kirsch-waser_ (_eau de cérises_); the Italians prepare, from a cherry called marusca, the liqueur named _marasquin_, sweeter and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should be very carefully masticated. Sweetmeats, syrups, tarts, entremets, &c. , of cherries, are universally approved. 

COLD PUDDING. 

1262. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a littlegrated lemon-rind, 2 oz. Of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, afew slices of sponge cake. 

_Mode_. --Sweeten the milk with lump sugar, add a little gratedlemon-rind, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well whisked;line a buttered mould with the raisins, stoned and cut in half; spreadthe slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mould; thenpour in the custard, tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth, andboil gently for 1 hour: when cold, turn it out, and serve. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

COLLEGE PUDDINGS. 

1263. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. Of finely-choppedsuet, 1/4 lb. Of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. Ofsugar, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Put the bread crumbs into a basin; add the suet, currants, candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredientsuntil they are thoroughly mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the puddingwith these, and put in the brandy; beat well for a few minutes, thenform the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hotbutter or lard, letting them stew in it until thoroughly done, and turnthem two or three times, till of a fine light brown; drain them on apiece of blotting-paper before the fire; dish, and serve with winesauce. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CURRANT DUMPLINGS. 

1264. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of suet, 1/2 lb. Of currants, rather more than 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, and add thecurrants, which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried; mix thewhole to a limp paste with the water (if wanted very nice, use milk);divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; tie them in cloths, and boil for 1-1/4hour. They may be boiled without a cloth: they should then be made intoround balls, and dropped into boiling water, and should be moved aboutat first, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar. 

_Time_. --In a cloth, 1-1/4 hour; without, 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 9 d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: ZANTE CURRANTS. ]

 ZANTE CURRANTS. --The dried fruit which goes by the name of currants in grocers' shops is not a currant really, but a small kind of grape, chiefly cultivated in the Morea and the Ionian Islands, Corfu, Zante, &c. Those of Zante are cultivated in an immense plain, under the shelter of mountains, on the shore of the island, where the sun has great power, and brings them to maturity. When gathered and dried by the sun and air, on mats, they are conveyed to magazines, heaped together, and left to cake, until ready for shipping. They are then dug out by iron crowbars, trodden into casks, and exported. The fertile vale of "Zante the woody" produces about 9, 000, 000 lbs. Of currants annually. In cakes and puddings this delicious little grape is most extensively used; in fact, we could not make a plum pudding without the currant. 

BOILED CURRANT PUDDING. 

(_Plain and Economical_. )

1265. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of suet, 1/2 lb. Ofcurrants, milk. 

_Mode_. --Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away anystalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a stiffbatter; tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, andboil for 3-1/2 hours; serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and siftedsugar. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BLACK or RED CURRANT PUDDING. 

1266. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of red or black currants, measured with thestalks, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter crust No. 1213. 

_Mode_. --Make, with 3/4 lb. Of flour, either a suet crust or buttercrust (the former is usually made); butter a basin, and line it withpart of the crust; put in the currants, which should be stripped fromthe stalks, and sprinkle the sugar over them; put the cover of thepudding on; make the edges very secure, that the juice does not escape;tie it down with a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boilfrom 2-1/2 to 3 hours. Boiled without a basin, allow 1/2 hour less. Wehave allowed rather a large proportion of sugar; but we find fruitpuddings are so much more juicy and palatable when _well sweetened_before they are boiled, besides being more economical. A few raspberriesadded to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition: about 1/2 pintwould be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings arevery delicious if, when they are turned out of the basin, the crust isbrowned with a salamander, or put into a very hot oven for a few minutesto colour it: this makes it crisp on the surface. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3 hours; without a basin, 2 to 2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

[Illustration: CURRANTS. ]

 CURRANTS. --The utility of currants, red, black, or white, has long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the red species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an agreeable substance called _currant jelly_, much employed in sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds. The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an agreeable beverage. The juice of currants is a valuable remedy in obstructions of the bowels; and, in febrile complaints, it is useful on account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured currants have, with the exception of the fullness of flavour, in every respect, the same qualities as the red species. Both white and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert, but the black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal purposes, especially in the form of jelly for quinsies. The leaves of the black currant make a pleasant tea. 

RED-CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART. 

1267. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of picked currants, 1/2 pint ofraspberries, 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. Of shortcrust. 

_Mode_. --Strip the currants from the stalks, and put them into a deeppie-dish, with a small cup placed in the midst, bottom upwards; add theraspberries and sugar; place a border of paste round the edge of thedish, cover with crust, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4hour: strew some sifted sugar over before being sent to table. This tartis more generally served cold than hot. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

[Illustration: RASPBERRY. ]

 RASPBERRIES. --There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and the white. Both the scent and flavour of this fruit are very refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome, and invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. We are not aware, however, of its being cultivated with the same amount of care which is bestowed upon some other of the berry tribe, although it is far from improbable that a more careful cultivation would not be repaid by a considerable improvement in the size and flavour of the berry; neither, as an eating fruit, is it so universally esteemed as the strawberry, with whose lusciousness and peculiarly agreeable flavour it can bear no comparison. In Scotland, it is found in large quantities, growing wild, and is eagerly sought after, in the woods, by children. Its juice is rich and abundant, and to many, extremely agreeable. 

BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING. 

1268. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-rind, andlet this infuse for about 4 hour, or until the milk is well flavoured;whisk the eggs, yolks and whites; pour the milk to them, stirring allthe while; then have ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge with pasteready baked; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little nutmegover the top, and bake in a _very slow_ oven for about 1/2 hour, orrather longer. The flavour of this pudding may be varied by substitutingbitter almonds for the lemon-rind; and it may be very much enriched byusing half cream and half milk, and doubling the quantity of eggs. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --This pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts. 

BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING. 

1269. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, flavouring to taste. 

_Mode_. --Flavour the milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind orcinnamon; whisk the eggs, stir the flour gradually to these, and pourover them the milk, and stir the mixture well. Butter a basin that willexactly hold it; put in the custard, and tie a floured cloth over;plunge it into boiling water, and turn it about for a few minutes, toprevent the flour from settling in one part. Boil it slowly for 1/2hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve. The pudding may be garnishedwith red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

DAMSON TART. 

1270. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/4 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 1/2lb. Of short or puff crust. 

_Mode_. --Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deeppie-dish, in the midst of which, place a small cup or jar turned upsidedown; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish withshort or puff crust, whichever may be preferred; put on the cover, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour in a good oven. Ifpuff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it outof the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a frothwith the blade of a knife; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few dropsof water, and put the tart back to finish baking: with short crust, alittle plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be required. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October. 

[Illustration: DAMSONS. ]

 DAMSONS. --Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, wine, dried fruit or preserved, the damson, or _damascene_ (for it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is invaluable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy proportions, when full ripe. It is a fruit easily cultivated; and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, it will grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine standards the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts of baking plums, the damson stands first, not only on account of the abundance of its juice, but also on account of its soon softening. Because of the roughness of its flavour, it requires a large quantity of sugar. 

DAMSON PUDDING. 

1271. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 3/4lb. Of suet or butter crust. 

_Mode_. --Make a suet crust with 3/4 lb. Of flour by recipe No. 1215;line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill the basin withthe damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid; pinch the edges of thecrust together, that the juice does not escape; tie over a flouredcloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3hours. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October. 

DELHI PUDDING. 

1272. INGREDIENTS. --4 large apples, a little grated nutmeg, 1teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 oz. Of currants, 3/4 lb. Of suet crust No. 1215. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices; put them into asaucepan, with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, and sugar; stir them over thefire until soft; then have ready the above proportion of crust, roll itout thin, spread the apples over the paste, sprinkle over the currants, roll the pudding up, closing the ends properly, tie it in a flouredcloth, and boil for 2 hours. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

EMPRESS PUDDING. 

1273. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of rice, 2 oz. Of butter, 3 eggs, jam, sufficient milk to soften the rice. 

_Mode_. --Boil the rice in the milk until very soft; then add the butterboil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in, and setit by to cool. Well beat the eggs, stir these in, and line a dish withpuff-paste; put over this a layer of rice, then a thin layer of any kindof jam, then another layer of rice, and proceed in this manner until thedish is full; and bake in a moderate oven for 3/4 hour. This pudding maybe eaten hot or cold; if the latter, it will be much improved by havinga boiled custard poured over it. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

EXETER PUDDING. 

(_Very rich_. )

1274. INGREDIENTS. --10 oz. Of bread crumbs, 4 oz. Of sago, 7 oz. Offinely-chopped suet, 6 oz. Of moist sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/4pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2oz. Of ratafias, 1/2 lb. Of jam. 

_Mode_. --Put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago, suet, sugar, minced lemon-peel, rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients welltogether, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and let the mixture bewell beaten. Then butter a mould, strew in a few bread crumbs, and coverthe bottom with a layer of ratafias; then put in a layer of the mixture, then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with any kind of jam;then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture and sponge cake, and soon until the mould is full, taking care that a layer of the mixture ison the top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven from 3/4 to 1 hour, andserve with the following sauce:--Put 3 tablespoonfuls of black-currantjelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of sherry, and, when warm, turn thepudding out of the mould, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot. 

_Time_. --From 1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

FIG PUDDING. 

I. 

1275. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of figs, 1 lb. Of suet, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2lb. Of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk. 

_Mode_. --Cut the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, andchop the suet very small; mix these well together, add the flour, theeggs, which should be well beaten, and sufficient milk to form the wholeinto a stiff paste; butter a mould or basin, press the pudding into itvery closely, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or ratherlonger; turn it out of the mould, and serve with melted butter, wine-sauce, or cream. 

_Time_. --3 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for a winter pudding. 

II. 

(_Staffordshire Recipe_. )

1276. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of figs, 6 oz. Of suet, 3/4 lb. Of flour, milk. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, and make theseinto a smooth paste with milk; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and strew them over the paste; rollit up, make the ends secure, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil itfrom 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

FOLKESTONE PUDDING-PIES. 

1277. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 3 oz. Of ground rice, 3 oz. Ofbutter, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, 6 eggs, puff-paste, currants. 

_Mode_. --Infuse 2 laurel or bay leaves, or the rind of 1/2 lemon, in themilk, and when it is well flavoured, strain it, and add the rice; boilthese for 1/4 hour, stirring all the time; then take them off the fire, stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs, and let these latter be well beatenbefore they are added to the other ingredients; when nearly cold, linesome patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the custard, strew over eacha few currants, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven. 

_Time_. --20 to 25 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a dozen patty-pans. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable for Pic-Nics). 

1278. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste No. 1206, any kind of fruit, sugar totaste. 

_Mode_. --Make some puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to thethickness of about 1/4 inch, and cut it out in pieces of a circularform; pile the fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wetthe edges and turn the paste over. Press the edges together, ornamentthem, and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg; sprinkleover sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, for about 20minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down witha little sugar first, and then inclosed in the crust; or jam, of anykind, may be substituted for fresh fruit. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. 

_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. Of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

GERMAN PUDDING. 

1279. INGREDIENTS. --2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. Of butter, sugar to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured; thenstrain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boilthese ingredients for a few minutes, keeping them well stirred; thentake them off the fire and mix with them the eggs, yolks and whites, beaten separately and added separately. Boil some sugar to candy; line amould with this, put in the brandy, then the mixture; tie down with acloth, and boil for rather more than 1 hour. When turned out, the brandyand sugar make a nice sauce. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

DAMPFNUDELN, or GERMAN PUDDINGS. 

1280. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 5 eggs, 2 smalltablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded sugar, milk, a very little salt. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin, make a hole in the centre, intowhich put the yeast, and rather more than 1/4 pint of warm milk; makethis into a batter with the middle of the flour, and let the sponge risein a warm temperature. When sufficiently risen, mix the eggs, butter, sugar, and salt with a little more warm milk, and knead the whole welltogether with the hands, beating the dough until it is perfectly smooth, and it drops from the fingers. Then cover the basin with a cloth, put itin a warm place, and when the dough has nicely risen, knead it intosmall balls; butter the bottom of a deep sauté-pan, strew over somepounded sugar, and let the dampfnudeln be laid in, but do not let themtouch one another; then pour over sufficient milk to cover them, put onthe lid, and let them rise to twice their original size by the side ofthe fire. Now place them in the oven for a few minutes, to acquire anice brown colour, and serve them on a napkin, with custard sauceflavoured with vanilla, or a _compôte_ of any fruit that may bepreferred. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes forthe puddings to rise; 10 minutes to bake them in a brisk oven. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

GINGER PUDDING. 

1281. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of suet, 1/4 lb. Of moistsugar, 2 large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger. 

_Mode_. --Shred the suet very fine, mix it with the flour, sugar, andginger; stir all well together; butter a basin, and put the mixture in_dry_; tie a cloth over, and boil for 3 hours. 

_Time_. --3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

GOLDEN PUDDING. 

1282. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. Of suet, 1/4 lb. Ofmarmalade, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the bread crumbs into a basin; mix with them the suet, which should be finely minced, the marmalade, and the sugar; stir allthese ingredients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten thepudding with these, and when well mixed, put it into a mould or butteredbasin; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours. When turnedout, strew a little fine-sifted sugar over the top, and serve. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 11d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged inany fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would addvery much to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding, double the quantities of the bread crumbs, and if the eggs do notmoisten it sufficiently, use a little milk. 

BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 

1283. INGREDIENTS. --Gooseberries, 3 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pintof bread crumbs, sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off thetops and tails; place this jar in boiling water, and let it boil untilthe gooseberries are soft enough to pulp; then beat them through acoarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add 3 well-whisked eggs, 1-1/2oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste; beat themixture well, put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish, put in the pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July. 

BOILED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. 

1284. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of suet crust No. 1215, 1-1/2 pint of greengooseberries, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar. 

_Mode_. --Line a pudding-basin with suet crust no. 1215, rolled out toabout 1/2 inch in thickness, and, with a pair of scissors, cut off thetops and tails of the gooseberries; fill the basin with the fruit, putin the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the puddingtogether, tie over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, andboil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours; turn it out of the basin, and serve with ajug of cream. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ from May to July. 

GOOSEBERRY TART. 

1285. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of gooseberries, 1/2 lb. Of short crustNo. 1211, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar. 

_Mode_. --With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of thegooseberries; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in thecentre, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the dish with shortcrust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart; bake in agood oven for about 3/4 hour, and before being sent to table, strew overit some fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a dish of boiled or bakedcustards, should always accompany this dish. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from May to July. 

[Illustration: GOOSEBERRY. ]

 GOOSEBERRIES. --The red and the white are the two principal varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the more acid; but, when covered with white sugar, are most wholesome, because the sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an excellent jelly, which is light and refreshing, but not very nourishing. It is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and to invalids generally who need light and digestible food. It is a fruit from which many dishes might be made. All sorts of gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and, in this country especially, there is no fruit so universally in favour. In Scotland, there is scarcely a cottage-garden without its gooseberry-bush. Several of the species are cultivated with the nicest care. 

HALF-PAY PUDDING. 

1286. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of suet, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 1/4 lb. Ofraisins, 1/4 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls oftreacle, 1/2 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely; mix with it the currants, which should benicely washed and dried, the raisins, which should be stoned, the flour, bread crumbs, and treacle; moisten with the milk, beat up theingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a butteredbasin, and boil the pudding for 3-1/2 hours. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

HERODOTUS PUDDING. 

1287. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. Of good figs, 6 oz. Of suet, 6 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 3 eggs, nutmegto taste. 

_Mode_. --Mince the suet and figs very finely; add the remainingingredients, taking care that the eggs are well whisked; beat themixture for a few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie it downwith a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 hours. Serve with winesauce. 

_Time_. --5 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

HUNTER'S PUDDING. 

1288. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of raisins, 1 lb. Of currants, 1 lb. Of suet, 1 lb. Of bread crumbs, 3 lb. Of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful offlour, 3 lb. Of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops ofessence of lemon, 10 drops of essence of almonds, 1/2 nutmeg, 2 bladesof mace, 6 cloves. 

_Mode_. --Stone and shred the raisins rather small, chop the suet finely, and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken; pound the spice topowder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all theseingredients well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a strongfroth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon andessence of almonds; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well, and addthe brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil it for 6 hoursat the least: 7 or 8 hours would be still better for it. Serve withboiled custard, or red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce. 

_Time_. --6 to 8 hours. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

ICED PUDDING. 

(_Parisian Recipe_. )

[Illustration: ICED-PUDDING MOULD. ]

1289. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, 2 oz. Of bitter ones, 3/4lb. Of sugar, 8 eggs, 1-1/2 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then poundthem in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste; add to these thewell-beaten eggs, the sugar, and milk; stir these ingredients over thefire until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil; then strain andput the mixture into the freezing-pot; surround it with ice, and freezeit as directed in recipe 1290. When quite frozen, fill an iced-puddingmould, put on the lid, and keep the pudding in ice until required fortable; then turn it out on the dish, and garnish it with a _compôte_ ofany fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the top of thepudding. This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla, Curaçoa, orMaraschino. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Seasonable_. --Served all the year round. 

ICED APPLE PUDDING. (_French Recipe, after Carême_. )

1290. INGREDIENTS. --2 dozen apples, a small pot of apricot-jam, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1/4 pint of preserved cherries, 1/4 lb. Ofraisins, 1 oz. Of citron, 2 oz. Of almonds, 1 gill of Curaçoa, 1 gill ofMaraschino, 1 pint of cream. 

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and simmer themover the fire until soft; then mix with them the apricot-jam and thesugar, on which the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed; workall these ingredients through a sieve, and put them into thefreezing-pot. Stone the raisins, and simmer them in a little syrup for afew minutes; add these, with the sliced citron, the almonds cut in dice, and the cherries drained from their syrup, to the ingredients in thefreezing-pot; put in the Curaçoa and Maraschino, and freeze again; addas much whipped cream as will be required, freeze again, and fill themould. Put the lid on, and plunge the mould into the ice-pot; cover itwith a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre, where it should remainuntil wanted for table. Turn the pudding out of the mould on to a cleanand neatly-folded napkin, and serve, as sauce, a little iced whippedcream, in a sauce-tureen or glass dish. 

[Illustration: ICE-SPATTLE. ]

[Illustration: ICE-FREEZING PAIL. ]

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Seasonable_ from August to March. 

_Method of working the freezing Apparatus_. --Put into the outer pailsome pounded ice, upon which strew some saltpetre; then fix the pewterfreezing-pot upon this, and surround it entirely with ice and saltpetre. Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in the preparation, and closethe lid; a quarter of an hour after, begin turning the freezing-pan fromright to left, and when the mixture begins to be firm round the sides ofthe pot, stir it about with the slice or spattle, that the preparationmay be equally congealed. Close the lid again, keep working from rightto left, and, from time to time, remove the mixture from the sides, thatit may be smooth; and when perfectly frozen, it is ready to put in themould; the mould should then be placed in the ice again, where it shouldremain until wanted for table. 

ROLY-POLY JAM PUDDING. 

1291. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb of suet-crust No. 1215, 3/4 lb. Of any kindof jam. 

_Mode_. --Make a nice light suet-crust by recipe No. 1215, and roll itout to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Spread the jam equally over it, leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins. Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; putthe pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat ormarmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent puddings. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is notobtainable. 

LEMON CHEESECAKES. 

1292. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 lb. Of loaf sugar, 6 eggs, therind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully grating thelemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture over thefire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken: when of theconsistency of honey, it is done; then put it into small jars, and keepin a dry place. This mixture will remain good 3 or 4 months. When madeinto cheesecakes, add a few pounded almonds, or candied peel, or gratedsweet biscuit; line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, rather morethan half fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 1/4 hour in agood brisk oven. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 24 cheesecakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON MINCEMEAT. 

1293. INGREDIENTS. --2 large lemons, 6 large apples, 1/2 lb. Of suet, 1lb. Of currants, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, 2 oz. Of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. Ofcitron, mixed spice to taste. 

_Mode_. --Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until tenderenough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples, which should bepared, cored, and minced; the chopped suet, currants, sugar, slicedpeel, and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir themixture well, and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting lid. Stiroccasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready foruse. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 18 large or 24 small pies. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this about the beginning of December. 

LEMON DUMPLINGS. 

1294. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of grated bread, 1/4 lb. Of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon. 

[Illustration: LEMON DUMPLINGS. ]

_Mode_. --Mix the bread, suet, and moist sugar well together, adding thelemon-peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten with the eggsand strained lemon-juice; stir well, and put the mixture into smallbuttered cups. Tie them down and boil for 3/4 hour. Turn them out on adish, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 dumplings. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED LEMON PUDDING. 

I. 

1295. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1lemon, 1/4 lb. Of butter, puff-crust. 

_Mode_. --Beat the eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar and warmedbutter; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the grated rindand strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish withpuff-paste; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 40minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted sugar, and serve. 

_Time_. --40 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

II. 

1296. INGREDIENTS. --10 oz. Of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. Of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful ofbrandy. 

_Mode_. --Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, andpour these hot over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and veryfinely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, and stir these in with thebrandy to the other ingredients; put a paste round the dish, and bakefor 3/4 hour. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: LEMON. ]

 LEMON. --The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice of this fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing beverages--lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cooling, and soon quenches the thirst. It may he freely partaken by bilious and sanguine temperaments; but persons with irritable stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid qualities. The fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and, when dried and grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culinary preparations. Lemons appear in company with the orange in most orange-growing countries. They were only known to the Romans at a very late period, and, at first, were used only to keep the moths from their garments: their acidity was unpleasant to them. In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an excellent counter-poison. 

III. 

(_Very rich_. )

1297. INGREDIENTS. --The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. Ofloaf sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. Of almonds, 1/2 lb. Of butter, melted. 

_Mode_. --Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks of eggsand the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound thealmonds, and put these, with the grated rind and strained juice of thelemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well together; line a dishwith puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED LEMON PUDDING. 

1298. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 2small lemons, 6 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. Of flour, 2 eggs, milk. 

_Mode_. --Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together, adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and thejuice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of theconsistency of thick batter; put it into a well-buttered mould, and boilfor 3-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve withwine sauce, or not, at pleasure. 

_Time_. --3-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good. Itwill take about 2 hours. 

PLAIN LEMON PUDDING. 

1299. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of lard or dripping, thejuice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar. 

_Mode_. --Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smoothpaste, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Squeeze thelemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as muchmoist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste; spread thismixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the puddingin a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours. 

_Time_. --2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold). 

1300. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip oflemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. Of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, jam, 3tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milkfor 1/2 hour; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and boil it for 2or 3 minutes; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, the butter, sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together; cover apie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer of anykind of jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and bake thepudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkledover. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SWEET MACARONI PUDDING. 

1301. INGREDIENTS. --2-1/2 oz. Of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls ofbrandy. 

_Mode_. --Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan withthe lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender;then put it into a pie-dish without the peel; mix the other pint of milkwith the eggs; stir these well together, adding the sugar and brandy, and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg over thetop, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. To make this pudding looknice, a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish, and, forvariety, a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni:in this case omit the brandy. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to simmer the macaroni; 1/2 hour to bake the pudding. 

_Average cost_, 11d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 MACARONI is composed of wheaten flour, flavoured with other articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, by a peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, in order that it may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill) is called _vermicelli_; and when smaller still, _fidelini_. The finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea wheat. Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts of Italy, particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured, and from whence, also, it is exported in considerable quantities. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are frequently used in soups. 

[Illustration: MACARONI. ]

MANNA KROUP PUDDING. 

1302. INGREDIENTS. --3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with themanna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steepfor about 1/4 hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beateneggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, andbake for 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA, are three names given to a flour made from ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white when it is made only of these materials; the yellow colour which it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful for thickening either meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily digested. The best preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from Italy. 

MANSFIELD PUDDING. 

1303. INGREDIENTS. --The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar totaste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. Of chopped suet, 2tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1/2 teaspoonful of gratednutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. 

_Mode_. --Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boilingmilk; let it remain covered close for 1/4 hour, then beat it up with afork, and sweeten with moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, flour, currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten withthe eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put itinto a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MARLBOROUGH PUDDING. 

1304. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of powdered lump sugar, 4eggs, puff-paste, a layer of any kind of jam. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar, whiskthe eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these are wellmixed, line a dish with puff-paste, spread over a layer of any kind ofjam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding forrather more than 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING. 

1305. INGREDIENTS. --1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls ofmarmalade, 1/4 lb. Of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk. 

_Mode_. --Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remaincovered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins, sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into abuttered mould, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with custard sauce. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_. 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c. 

(_German Recipe_. )

1306. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of beef marrow, 1 oz. Of butter, 2 eggs, 2penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of mincedparsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk theeggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are wellstirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked inboiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remainingingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very muchdisliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop theseinto boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or 1/2hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as inGermany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in thiscountry. They are very good. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED OB BOILED MARROW PUDDING. 

1307. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz. Of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. Of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. Of each;sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs, andlet these remain covered for about 1/2 hour; shred the marrow, beat upthe eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs; add the remainingingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a butteredmould and boil it for 2-1/2 hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged withpuff-paste, and bake for rather more than 3/4 hour. Before sending it totable, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of themould or basin. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours to boil, 3/4 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MILITARY PUDDINGS. 

1308. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of suet, 1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. Ofmoist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar, and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir these into the otheringredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups, andbake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn them out on the dish, and servewith lemon-sauce. The above ingredients may be made into small balls, and boiled for about 1/2 hour; they should then be served with the samesauce as when baked. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. _Seasonable_ at anytime. 

MINCEMEAT. 

1309. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of raisins, 3 lbs. Of currants, 1-1/2 lb. Oflean beef, 3 lbs. Of beef suet, 2 lbs. Of moist sugar, 2 oz. Of citron, 2 oz. Of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. Of candied orange-peel, 1 smallnutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, 1/2pint of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Stone and _cut_ the raisins once or twice across, but do notchop them; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and grit, and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is chopped veryfine; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and pare, core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon-peel, strain the juice, andwhen all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together, adding the brandy when the other things are well blended; press thewhole into a jar, carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat will beready for use in a fortnight. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8s. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this about the beginning of December. 

EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT. 

1310. INGREDIENTS. --3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. Of stonedraisins, 1 lb. Of currants, 1 lb. Of suet, 2 lbs. Of moist sugar, 1 oz. Of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. Of sliced candied orange-peel, and thesame quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls oforange marmalade. 

_Mode_. --Grate the rinds of the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strainit, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp orchop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which should bebaked, and their skins and cores removed; put in the remainingingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix everything verythoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone jar with aclosely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made the first or second week in December. 

MINCE PIES. 

1311. INGREDIENTS. --Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309. 

[Illustration: MINCE PIES. ]

_Mode_. --Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out tothe thickness of about 1/4 inch, and line some good-sized pattypans withit; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the paste, and cut it off allround close to the edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven, todraw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer, should the piesbe very large; brush them over with the white of an egg, beaten with theblade of a knife to a stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, and putthem into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies ona white d'oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely sprinkled withpounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that mode is preferred. Tore-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans, and let them remain in theoven for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, and they will be almost as good as iffreshly made. 

_Time_. --25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them. 

_Average cost_, 4d. Each. 

_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. Of paste for 4 pies. _Seasonable_ at Christmastime. 

MONDAY'S PUDDING. 

1312. INGREDIENTS. --The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy, custardmade with 5 eggs to every pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Cut the remains of a _good_ cold plum-pudding intofinger-pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barredin a mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milkand eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind; fill up the mouldwith it; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour. Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been addeda tablespoonful of brandy. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the pudding, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

NESSELRODE PUDDING. (_A fashionable iced pudding--Carême's Recipe_. )

1313. INGREDIENTS. --40 chestnuts, 1 lb. Of sugar, flavouring of vanilla, 1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino, 1 oz. Ofcandied citron, 2 oz. Of currants, 2 oz. Of stoned raisins, 1/2 pint ofwhipped cream, 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, andpound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few spoonfuls ofsyrup. Then rub them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin witha pint of syrup made from 1 lb. Of sugar, clarified, and flavoured withvanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixtureover a slow fire, stirring it _without ceasing_, and just as it beginsto boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy. When it is cold, putit into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and make the mixture set;then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these twolatter should be soaked the day previously in Maraschino and sugarpounded with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of whippedcream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a littlesyrup. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into apineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, place it again in thefreezing-pan, covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and let itremain until required for table; then turn the pudding out, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Seasonable_ from October to February. 

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING. 

1314. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias, 6oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pourupon them the milk, which should be boiling. Rub the rinds of 2 of theoranges on sugar, and add this, with the juice of the remainder, to theother ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, andput the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste. Bakefor rather more than 1/2 hour; turn it out of the dish, strew siftedsugar over, and serve. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from November to May. 

[Illustration: ORANGE. ]

 ORANGE (_Citrus Aurantium_). --The principal varieties are the sweet, or China orange, and the bitter, or Seville orange; the Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red blood-like pulp. The orange is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, and in Devonshire, on walls with a south aspect, it bears an abundance of fruit. So great is the increase in the demand for the orange, and so ample the supply, that it promises to rival the apple in its popularity. The orange-tree is considered young at the age of a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and refreshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen for the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an essential oil is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of roses. Of all marmalades, that made from the Seville orange is the best. The peel and juice of the orange are much used in culinary preparations. From oranges are made preserves, comfitures, jellies, glacés, sherbet, liqueurs, and syrups. The juice of the orange in a glass _d'eau sucrée_ makes a refreshing and wholesome drink. From the clarified pulp of the orange the French make a delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots, and call _crême_. The rasped peel of the orange is used in several sweet _entremets_, to which it communicates its perfume. The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent tonics and stomachics. Persons with delicate stomachs should abstain from oranges at dessert, because their acidity is likely to derange the digestive organs. 

SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOE ENTREMETS, SUPPER-DISHES, &c. 

FANCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS. 

1315. INGREDIENTS. --For the custard, 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 2 oz. Of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouringto taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. Of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Well beat the eggs; stir to them the milk, the butter, whichshould be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix these ingredientswell together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring them tothe simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour with essenceof vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any flavouringingredient that may be preferred. Line some round tartlet-pans with goodpuff-paste; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven forabout 20 minutes; then take them out of the pans; let them cool, and inthe mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir intothis the pounded sugar, and spread smoothly over the tartlets a littleof this mixture. Put them in the oven again to set the icing, but beparticular that they do not scorch: when the icing looks crisp, they aredone. Arrange them, piled high in the centre, on a white napkin, andgarnish the dish, and in between the tartlets, with strips of brightjelly, or very firmly-made preserve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the paste, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 10 or 12 tartlets. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and aspoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custardinstead: this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish. 

ALMOND FLOWERS. 

1316. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste No. 1205; to every 1/2 lb. Of paste allow3 oz. Of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg. 

_Mode_. --Roll the paste out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with around fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required. Workthe paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp outsome pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces over withthe white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanchand cut the almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into thepaste closely round the rings; and when they are all completed, siftover some pounded sugar, and bake for about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in thecentre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam; pile them high onthe dish, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour or 20 minutes. 

_Sufficient_. --18 or 20 for a dish. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FLUTED ROLLS. 

1317. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar, jellyor preserve. 

_Mode_. --Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings answervery well for little dishes of this sort); roll it out to the thicknessof 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as manyround pieces as may be required; brush over the upper side with thewhite of an egg; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly togetherwhere it joins; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake for about1/4 hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them over with thewhite of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven; andwhen the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour, they are done. Placea strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish them high on anapkin, and serve cold. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour before being iced; 5 to 10 minutes after. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_. --1/2 lb. Of puff-paste for 2 dishes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

PASTRY SANDWICHES. 

1318. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg, sifted sugar. 

_Mode_. --Roll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet ortin, and spread equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve thatmay be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste; press theedges together all round; and mark the paste in lines with a knife onthe surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20 minutes to1/2 hour; and, a short time before being done, take the pastry out ofthe oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift over poundedsugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When cold, cut it intostrips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. These strips, cutabout 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a plateful of flavouredwhipped cream poured in the middle, make a very pretty dish. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1 hour. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. Of paste, 1s. 

_Sufficient_. --1/2 lb. Of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

PETITES BOUCHEES. 

1319. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. Of sifted sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste. 

_Mode_. --Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine; rub the sugar on thelemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and thewhite of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape that maybe preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c. , and spread the abovemixture over the paste. Bake the bouchées in an oven, not too hot, andserve cold. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 1/2 lb. Of puff-paste. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

POLISH TARTLETS. 

1320. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 2-1/2-inchsquares; brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold downthe corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste;slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg, sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about 1/4 hour. Whenthey are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and fillit up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them highin the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preservethe tartlets are filled with. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour or 20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. Of puff-paste, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of smallpastry, such as the preceding, trimmings of puff-pasty, left from largertarts, answer as well as making the paste expressly. 

PUITS d'AMOUR, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS. 

1321. INGREDIENTS. --Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg, siftedloaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out tothe thickness of about 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required; then work the paste upagain, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter, stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones. Againstamp out the centre of these smaller rings; brush over the others withthe white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every largecircular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to 20minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour them; thenfill the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish them high on anapkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry may be made bystamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, whenbaked, with jelly or preserve, that our space will not allow us to givea separate recipe for each of them; but, as they are all made from onepaste, and only the shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it is notnecessary, and by exercising a little ingenuity, variety may always beobtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc. , are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry. 

_Time_. --15 to 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. Of paste, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

PARADISE PUDDING. 

1322. INGREDIENTS. --3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 3 oz. Ofsugar, 3 oz. Of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglassful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mixthem with the other dry ingredients; beat up the eggs, moisten themixture with these, and beat it well; stir in the brandy, and put thepudding into a buttered mould; tie it down with a cloth, boil for 1-1/2hour, and serve with sweet sauce. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

PEASE PUDDING. 

1323. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of split peas, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 eggs, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float offany that are wormeaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a cleancloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boilin cold rain-water, allowing 2-1/2 hours after the water has simmeredup. When the peas are tender, take them up and drain; rub them through acolander with a wooden spoon; add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt;beat all well together for a few minutes, until the ingredients are wellincorporated; then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; boil the puddingfor another hour, turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot. Thispudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork, and isan exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hourfor the pudding. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING. 

1324. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of flour, 1 lb. Of currants, 1 lb. Ofraisins, 1 lb. Of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candiedpeel. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, currants, stonedraisins, and candied peel; moisten with the well-beaten eggs, and addsufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thickbatter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good oven from 2-1/4to 2-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For avery plain pudding, use only half the quantity of fruit, omit the eggs, and substitute milk or water for them. The above ingredients make alarge family pudding; for a small one, half the quantity would be foundample; but it must be baked quite 1-1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --Large pudding, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; half the size, 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE. ]

 RAISIN GRAPE. --All the kinds of raisins have much the same virtues; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are very subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and hence, when eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics. There are many varieties of grape used for raisins; the fruit of Valencia is that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst most of the table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Muscatels. The finest of all table raisins come from Provence or Italy; the most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire; they are very large and very sweet. This sort is rarely eaten by any but the most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel raisins, which come to this country packed in small boxes, and nicely preserved in bunches, are variable in their quality, but mostly of a rich flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep purple hue. 

AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs. 

1325. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of raisins, 6 oz. Ofcurrants, 1/4 lb. Of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. Of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. Ofmashed carrot, 1/4 lb. Of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1oz. Of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. Of candied citron. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together; haveready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which stir intothe other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon-peel; but put no liquidin the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or, ifput in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding should have room toswell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy-sauce. This pudding isbetter for being mixed over-night. 

_Time_. --4 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING. 

1326. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of muscatel raisins, 1-3/4 lb. Ofcurrants, 1 lb. Of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. Of the finest moist sugar, 2lbs. Of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. Of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. Ofmixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. Of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. Of ground cinnamon, 1/2 oz. Of pounded bitter almonds, 1/4 pint ofbrandy. 

_Mode_. --Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash anddry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all thedry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs, which shouldbe well beaten and strained, to the pudding; stir in the brandy, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout newpudding-cloth; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly and closely, boil from 6 to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A few sweetalmonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornamentit prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds. For small families this is the most desirable way, as the above will befound to make a pudding of rather large dimensions. 

_Time_. --6 to 8 hours. _Average cost_, 7s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 12 or 14 persons. 

_Note_. --The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose(not in bunches): they are then scarcely higher in price than theordinary raisins, and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding. 

[Illustration: SULTANA GRAPE. ]

 SULTANA GRAPE. --We have elsewhere stated that the small black grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when dried, the common currant of the grocers' shops; the white or yellow grape, grown in the same places, is somewhat larger than the black variety, and is that which produces the Sultana raisin. It has been called Sultana from its delicate qualities and unique growth: the finest are those of Smyrna. They have not sufficient flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing, that is to say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts of Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings, or cakes, too, where the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin should be used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the _cuisine_ is that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half Muscatels and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes. 

A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. 

1327. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1 lb. Of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. Ofstoned raisins, 3/4 lb. Of currants, 3/4 lb. Of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, 2 oz. Of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, 1/2saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and thecurrants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other dryingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs to thepudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it mixproperly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in themiddle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it. 

_Time_. --5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 children. _Seasonable_ at Christmas. 

 RAISINS. --Raisins are grapes, prepared by suffering them to remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe, and then drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven. The sun-dried grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches of them together, whilst yet on the vine, and dip them into a hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of olives: this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which they are left on the vine three or four days, separated, on sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dried in the sun at leisure, after being cut from the tree. 

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. 

(_Very Good_. )

1328. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of raisins, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1/2 lb. Of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. Of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. Of suet, 8 eggs, 1wineglassful of brandy. 

[Illustration: CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING IN MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop them;wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely; cut thecandied peel into thin slices, and grate down the bread into finecrumbs. When all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them welltogether; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which should be wellbeaten, and the brandy; stir well, that everything may be verythoroughly blended, and _press_ the pudding into a buttered mould; tieit down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It maybe boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same timeallowed for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few daysbefore they are required for table, when the pudding is taken out of thepot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath tocatch the water that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours;then turn it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. OnChristmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of thepudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, atthe moment of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to tableencircled in flame. 

_Time_. --5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours the day it isto be served. 

_Average cost_, 4s. 

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasionstill March. 

_Note_. --Five or six of these puddings should be made at one time, asthey will keep good for many weeks, and in cases where unexpected guestsarrive, will be found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warmingthrough, a quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size aremanufactured for these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand. 

 BRANDY is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated from the aqueous part, the colouring matter, &c. , by distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its German form, _brantuein_, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has undergone the action of fire; brandies, so called, however, have been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other vegetable substances; but they are all inferior to true brandy. Brandy is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is the most esteemed. It is procured not only by distilling the wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the _marc_, or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured indifferently from red or white wine, and different wines yield very different proportions of it, the strongest, of course, giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a more acrid taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of Cognac, a town in the department of Charente, and that brought from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from being made from white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when recently distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably, to some change in the soluble matter contained in it, it acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping in casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of burnt sugar or other colouring matter. What is called _British brandy_ is not, in fact, brandy, which is the name, as we have said, of a spirit distilled from _wine;_ but is a spirit made chiefly from malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and various flavouring ingredients, the exact composition being kept secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country; real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England are chiefly from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac. 

A POUND PLUM-PUDDING. 

1329. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of suet, 1 lb. Of currants, 1 lb. Of stonedraisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. Of sliced candied peel, 1teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. Of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 pint of milk. 

[Illustration: BAKED PUDDING OR CAKE-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely; mix with it the dry ingredients; stirthese well together, and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moistenwith. Beat up the mixture well, and should the above proportion of milknot be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency, a littlemore should be added. Press the pudding into a mould, tie it in afloured cloth, and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer, and serve withbrandy-sauce. 

_Time_. --5 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. 

_Note_. --The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled; it should beput into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 hours; a smallerone would take about 1-1/4 hour. 

 CITRON. --The fruit of the citron-tree (_Citrus medica_) is acidulous, antiseptic, and antiscorbutic: it excites the appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed with cordials, it is used as an antidote to the _machineel poison_. The candied peel is prepared in the same manner as orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in water until quite soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup (in the cold), after which it is either dried in a current of warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120° Fahrenheit. The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by reboiling it once or twice during the process. It may be dusted with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is supposed to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It is described by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries. 

PLUM-PUDDING OF FRESH FRUIT. 

1330. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of suet crust No. 1-1/2 pint of Orleans orany other kind of plum, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar. 

_Mode_. --Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to thethickness of about 1/2 inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in thesugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch themtogether, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, putthe pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn itout of the basin, and serve quickly. 

_Time_. --2 to 2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of Augustto the beginning of October. 

[Illustration: PLUM. ]

 PLUMS. --Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums are as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections raised against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit, which even the invalid may eat in moderation. 

PLUM TART. 

1331. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pint ofplums, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar. 

[Illustration: PLUM TART. ]

_Mode_. --Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipeNo. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upsidedown, in the midst of them. Put in the sugar, cover the pie with crust, ornament the edges, and bake in a good oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. Whenpuff-crust is preferred to short crust, use that made by recipe No. 1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an eggbeaten to a stiff froth with a knife; sprinkle over a little siftedsugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of Augustto the beginning of October. 

POTATO PASTY. 

1332. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepperand salt to taste, 1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. Of butter, mashed potatoes. 

[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN. ]

_Mode_. --Place the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the pan;season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken, into small pieces. Put on the perforated plate, with its valve-pipescrewed on, and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube withnicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, and finish the surfaceof them in any ornamental manner. If carefully baked, the potatoes willbe covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury steamrising from the meat. Send it to table as it comes from the oven, with anapkin folded round it. 

_Time_. --40 to 60 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

POTATO PUDDING. 

1333. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, the juice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Boil sufficient potatoes to make 1/2 lb. When mashed; add tothese the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince thelemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together. Putthe pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase the quantityof eggs and butter. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO ICE OR GLAZE PASTRY. 

1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat orraised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beatthe former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, takeit out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg, and putit back in the oven to set the glaze. 

1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tartsand sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and withthe blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearlybaked, brush it over with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put itback into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few minutes, it will bedone. Great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burnin the oven, which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on. 

_Sufficient_--Allow 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. Of sugar to glaze 3 tarts. 

[Illustration: SUGAR CANES. ]

 SUGAR has been happily called "the honey of reeds. " The sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies. The Chinese have cultivated it for 2, 000 years. The Egyptians, Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it. The Greek physicians are the first who speak of it. It was not till the year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense fortune by this discovery. Our supplies are now obtained from Barbadoes, Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally, and the United States; but the largest supplies come from Cuba. Sugar is divided into the following classes:--Refined sugar, white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The sugarcane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even sometimes twenty feet. It is propagated from cuttings, requires much hoeing and weeding, giving employment to thousands upon thousands of slaves in the slave countries, and attains maturity in twelve or thirteen months. When ripe, it is cut down close to the stole, the stems are divided into lengths of about three feet, which are made up into bundles, and carried to the mill, to be crushed between rollers. In the process of crushing, the juice runs down into a reservoir, from which, after a while, it is drawn through a siphon; that is to say, the clear fluid is taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes several processes of drying and refining; the methods varying in different manufactories. There are some large establishments engaged in sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of Blackwall and Bethnal Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pure sugar is highly nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the body; but it is not easy of digestion. 

BAKED RAISIN PUDDING. 

(_Plain and Economical_. )

1336. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 3/4 lb. Of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. Ofsuet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. Of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in halves;mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, andmoisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency ofthick batter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew siftedsugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable wherethere is a family of children. It, of course, can be much improved bythe addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger proportionof suet: a few eggs would also make the pudding richer. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. 

 INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR. --Sugar was first known as a drug, and used by the apothecaries, and with them was a most important article. At its first appearance, some said it was heating; others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed persons to apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these fancies, and the use of sugar has increased every day, and there is no household in the civilized world which can do without it. 

BOILED RAISIN PUDDING. 

(_Plain and Economical_. )

1337. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. Of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk. 

_Mode_. --After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely, mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredientsare thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to makeit into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it intoboiling water, and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted sugar. Thispudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolledjam-pudding, and will then not require so long boiling;--2-1/2 hourswould then be quite sufficient. 

_Time_. --Made round, 4 hours; in a long shape, 2-1/2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter. 

BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING. 

1338. INGREDIENTS. --4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 1/4 lb. Of moistsugar, 3/4 lb. Of suet-crust No. 1215. 

_Mode_. --Make a suet-crust with 3/4 lb. Of flour, by recipe No. 1215, and line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, ifold, string it--that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it intoinch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover withcrust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a flouredcloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turnit out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar. 

_Time_. --2 to 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ in spring. 

RHUBARB TART. 

1339. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks oflarge rhubarb, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar. 

_Mode_. --Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deeppie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to say, pareoff the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinksvery much in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover with crust, ornamentthe edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to astiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it in theoven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearlybaked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the peel minced, are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarbtart. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in spring. 

[Illustration: RHUBARB. ]

 RHUBARB. --This is one of the most useful of all garden productions that are put into pies and puddings. It was comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty years, but it is now cultivated in almost every British garden. The part used is the footstalks of the leaves, which, peeled and cut into small pieces, are put into tarts, either mixed with apples or alone. When quite young, they are much better not peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out. The common rhubarb is a native of Asia; the scarlet variety has the finest flavour. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal drug, is the root of a very elegant plant (_Rheum palmatum_), coming to greatest perfection in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched. 

RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME. 

1340. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt (these arefor the crust); 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, afew slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, pepper and salt, gravy. 

[Illustration: RAISED PIE. ]

_Mode_. --Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter, flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly; butter araised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste. Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird isintended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and seasonthe inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; thenspread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned veal, andthen one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and roll the fowlover, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, putin the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal andham and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch theedges together with the paste-pincers, and decorate it with leaves;brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for 4hours. In the mean time, make a good strong gravy from the bones, pourit through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with asmall leaf, and the pie, when cold, will be ready for use. Let it beremembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it ispoured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a firm jelly, and notbe the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is suitable for allkinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the sizeof the pie intended to be made; but the birds must always be boned. Truffles, mushrooms, &c. , added to this pie, make it much nicer; and, toenrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin stripsof bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mould is generallycalled a _timbale_, and has the advantage of being more easily made thanone where the paste is raised by the hands; the crust, besides, beingeatable. (_See_ coloured plate N 1. ) _Time_. --Large pie, 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_, with poultry, all the year; with game, from September toMarch. 

RAISED PIE OF VEAL AND HAM. 

1341. INGREDIENTS. --3 or 4 lbs. Of veal cutlets, a few slices of baconor ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No. 415, 2 lbs. Of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy. 

_Mode_. --To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficulttask, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks. Theprocess should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty ofpractice given to the making of raised pies, as by that means only willsuccess be insured. Make a hot-water paste by recipe No. 1217, and fromthe mass raise the pie with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished, cut out pieces for the top and bottom, and a long piece for the sides;fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg, and pinch theedges well together; then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No. 415, put in a layer of veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice, as, let it be remembered, these pies taste veryinsipid unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer ofsliced bacon or cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, vealseasoning, and bacon, and so on until the meat rises to about an inchabove the paste; taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, tofill all the cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly andcompactly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on thecover, press the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make ahole in the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, whichshould be stuck on with the white of an egg; then brush it all over withthe beaten yolk of an egg, and bake the pie in an oven with a soakingheat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run asharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into themiddle of the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficientlybaked. Have ready about 1/2 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through afunnel into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf ofbaked paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should itacquire too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as thecrust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles, andmany other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of thesepies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These piesare more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent dishes forcold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is sometimes carefullyremoved, leaving the perfect edges, and the top decorated with squarepieces of very bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly prettyeffect. 

_Time_. --About 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a very large pie. _Seasonable_ from March to October. 

BAKED RICE PUDDING. 

I. 

1342. INGREDIENTS. --1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2oz. Of fresh butter, 2 oz. Of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 2tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, the rind of 1/2lemon. 

_Mode_. --Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it infusetill the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; in the mean time, boilthe rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity of salt, and, when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, stir to them themilk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, andremaining ingredients; add the rice, and mix all well together. Line theedges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake forabout 3/4 hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel may be added atpleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are notobtainable. 

 RICE, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food, and, in years of scarcity, has been found eminently useful in lessening the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed that the grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as dry as possible. The water in which it is dressed should only simmer, and not boil hard. Very little water should be used, as the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much; and if they take up too much at first, it is difficult to get rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing it. 

II. 

(_Plain and Economical; a nice Pudding for Children_. )

1343. INGREDIENTS. --1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moistsugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. Of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls ofchopped suet, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour inthe milk, and stir these ingredients well together; then add the buttercut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above proportionof finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake thepudding, in a moderate oven, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. As the rice is notpreviously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very slowlybaked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it to bevery thoroughly done. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING. 

1344. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of rice. 

_Mode_. --Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for therice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; boil it gentlyfor 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely, take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter, or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any ofwhich accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice. 

_Time_. --2 hours after the water boils. _Average cost_, 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED RICE PUDDING. 

I. 

1345. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of rice, 1-1/2 pint of new milk, 2 oz. Ofbutter, 4 eggs, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls ofmoist sugar, flavouring to taste. 

_Mode_. --Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk, and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin; stir in the butter, andlet it stand to cool; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice with thesugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such as nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter almonds, orvanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a butteredbasin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boilfor 1-1/4 hour. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 VARIETIES OF RICE. --Of the varieties of rice brought to our market, that from Bengal is chiefly of the species denominated _cargo_ rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast, but peculiarly sweet and large-grained; it does not readily separate from the husk, but it is preferred by the natives to all the others. _Patua_ rice is more esteemed in Europe, and is of very superior qualify; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and is remarkably white. The _Carolina_ rice is considered as the best, and is likewise the dearest in London. 

II. 

(_With Dried or Fresh fruit; a nice dish for the Nursery_. )

1346. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruitthat may be preferred, or 1/2 lb. Of raisins or currants. 

_Mode_. --Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it toswell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil for anhour, then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it upagain tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder ofthe time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweetsauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and alittle cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit. 

_Time_. --1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer, afterwards. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 children. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

Note. --This pudding is very good made with apples: they should be paredcored, and cut into thin slices. 

BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES, &c. 

1347. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of rice, water, salt. 

_Mode_. --Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water; thenhave ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and keepit boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but notsoft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the fire to dry:do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a little with twoforks, that it may all be equally dried, and strew over a little salt. It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in thecentre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and thenbrush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to colour;but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, isby far the more preferable mode of dressing it. During the process ofboiling, the rice should be attentively watched, that it be notoverdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a mashed and softappearance. 

_Time_. --15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice. 

_Average cost_, 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for a large dish of curry. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 RICE, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is called _paddy_, both in India and America, and it will keep better, and for a much longer time, in this state, than after the husk has been removed; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship, and in the warehouses. It is sometimes brought to England in the shape of paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays less duty than shelled rice. 

TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c. 

(_Soyer's Recipe_. )

1348. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, a little salt. 

_Mode_. --Wash the rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts of waterboiling, and throw the rice into it; boil it until three-parts done, then drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, putin the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of thefire until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan toprevent its sticking. Prepared thus, every grain should be separate andwhite. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as aborder. 

_Time_. --15 to 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized curries. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BUTTERED RICE. 

1349. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. Ofbutter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon. 

_Mode_. --Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan withthe milk; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the milk;stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when the butteris thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve. After the milkis poured off, be particular that the rice does not burn: to preventthis, do not cease stirring it. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to swell the rice. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICE was held in great esteem by the ancients: they considered it as avery beneficial food for the chest; therefore it was recommended incases of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood. 

SAVOURY CASSEROLE OF RICE. 

Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree). 

1350. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth, 2slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt. 

[Illustration: CASSEROLE OF RICE. ]

_Mode_. --A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such adifficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegantand inexpensive entrée, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl maybe served as ragoûts, fricassees, &c. , inclosed in the casserole. Itrequires great nicety in its preparation, the principal thing to attendto being the boiling of the rice, as, if this is not sufficientlycooked, the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, whichwould entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or threewaters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham, and salt; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over aslow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it isquite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the back ofa large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste. Thenwell grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for rice borders), andturn it upside down for a minute or two, to drain away the fat, shouldthere be too much; put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it;place a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice; pressit in equally with the spoon, and let it cool. Then dip the mould intohot water, turn the casserole carefully on to a dish, mark where the lidis to be formed on the top, by making an incision with the point of aknife about an inch from the edge all round, and put it into a _veryhot_ oven. Brush it over with a little clarified butter, and bake about1/2 hour, or rather longer; then carefully remove the lid, which will beformed by the incision having been made all round, and remove the bread, in small pieces, with the point of a penknife, being careful not toinjure the casserole. Fill the centre with the ragoût or fricassee, which should be made thick; put on the cover, glaze it, place it in theoven to set the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. The casseroleshould not be emptied too much, as it is liable to crack from the weightof whatever is put in; and in baking it, let the oven be very hot, orthe casserole will probably break. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to swell the rice. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized casseroles. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets). 

1351. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste, flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. Of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --This is made in precisely the same manner as a savourycasserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt. Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almondsto flavour it well; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked, and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire. When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs; buttera mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as inrecipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compôte ofany fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and serve. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice, 1/2 to 3/4 hour to bakethe casserole. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte or jam, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 casseroles. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ. 

1352. INGREDIENTS. --To every 1/4 lb. Of rice allow 1 quart of milk, therind of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. Ofbutter, 6 eggs, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let itinfuse for 1/2 hour, or until the former is well flavoured; then takeout the peel; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained; put itinto the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire. Stir inthe butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add the yolksof the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be well beaten, and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould, strew in some finebread crumbs, and let them be spread equally over it; then carefullypour in the rice, and bake the pudding in a _slow_ oven for 1 hour. Turnit out of the mould, and garnish the dish with preserved cherries, orany bright-coloured jelly or jam. This pudding would be exceedinglynice, flavoured with essence of vanilla. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour in aslow oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BAKED OR BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING. 

1353. INGREDIENTS. --2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter almondsor bay-leaf. 

_Mode_. --Put 1-1/2 pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of theabove flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with theother 1/2 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter; strainthe boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture istolerably thick; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and whennearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, whichshould be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the puddinginto a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it intoboiling water, and boil for 1-1/2 hour. For a baked pudding, proceed inprecisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion ofground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients: anhour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, orpreserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or bakedpudding, and will be found an improvement. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ICED RICE PUDDING. 

1354. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. 

_Mode_. --Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and letthese simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft tobreak up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much, alittle more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent itsburning, then beat it to a smooth mixture; add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouringnot be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it); putthis rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed inrecipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of themould, and pour over the top, and round it, a _compôte_ of oranges, orany other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the flavouringin the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. ; exclusive of the _compôte_, 1s. 4d. 

_Seasonable_. --Served all the year round. 

MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS. 

1355. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. Of freshbutter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitteralmonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel. 

_Mode_. --Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire, putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; stir to it the butter and theother 1/2 pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add thewell-beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence ofvanilla, whichever may be preferred; butter well some small cups ormoulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin, fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn them outof the cups on to a white d'oyley, and serve with sweet sauce. Theflavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit orpreserve served instead, with these puddings. 

_Time_. --40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1356. INGREDIENTS. --2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into astewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stirthese ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is readyfor use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very muchimprove the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread, rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 

(_German Recipe_. )

1357. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz. Of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a littlegrated lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to asmooth paste; put the butter and flour into a saucepan; stir them overthe fire until of a pale brown; then add the cherries, the poundedkernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for 1/4 hour, oruntil the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hairsieve; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiledbatter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured overthe pudding. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

LEMON SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 

1358. INGREDIENTS. --The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful offlour, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassfulof water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; squeezeout the juice, and strain it; put the butter and flour into a saucepan, stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the wine, water, and strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed onthe lemon; stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet. Whenthese ingredients are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, put in thebeaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens, whenserve. Do not, on any account, allow it to boil, or it will curdle, andbe entirely spoiled. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING. 

1359. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powderedsugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 smallwineglassfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put theformer into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, andstir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do _not_ allow it to_boil_. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire, to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureenseparately, or pour it over the pudding. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1360. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk, 4 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring; of gratedlemon-rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon. 

_Mode_. --Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting thesalt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, orpowdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter, the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half adozen of them in it for about 1/2 hour; the milk should then be strainedbefore it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may beserved for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings. 

1361. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. Of sugar, 10 dropsof essence of vanilla. 

_Mode_. --Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; stir these ingredients welltogether, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating theproportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence, thesize of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this jugin a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce _one way_ until itthickens; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. Serve in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind ofdry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substitutedfor the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring ofthe pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served. 

_Time_. --To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1362. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. Of pounded sugar, 2 oz. Of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2pint of sherry or Madeira. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them overthe fire until the former thickens; then add the sugar, salt, and wine, and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks from thewhites of 4 eggs; beat up the former, and stir them briskly to thesauce; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point ofsimmering; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings; but shouldbe served separately, and not poured over the pudding. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes tostir the sauce over the fire. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1363. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heapedteaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; 1 _large_ wineglassful of port or sherry, or 3/4 of a _small_ glassful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting thesalt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion, and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat or tureenseparately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding. Toconvert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a smallwineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon. Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curaçoa substituted for the brandy, makeexcellent sauces. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS. 

1364. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of6 eggs, 2 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, afew pieces of candied citron cut thin. 

_Mode_. --Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, andput them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is best);add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and keepstirring until the sauce begins to thicken; then take it off and serve. If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediatelycurdle. 

_Time_. --To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must notboil. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for a large pudding; allow half this quantity for amoderate-sized one. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE. 

[Illustration: OPEN TART. ]

[Illustration: OPEN-TART MOULD. ]

1365. INGREDIENTS. --Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam. 

_Mode_. --Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving, roll outthe paste to the thickness of 1/2 an inch, and line the pan with it;prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in abrisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fillit with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have beenpreviously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready fortable. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of thejam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked in theoven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_. --1 tart for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

STRAWBERRY. --The name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived froman ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began toripen, which is very useful to keep it moist and clean. The strawberrybelongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of theselatitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at allcomparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widelydiffused, being found in most parts of the world, particularly in Europeand America. 

QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS. 

1366. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. Of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it cool beforethe other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour, and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of 2;flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well. Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from 20minutes to 1/2 hour, according to the size of the puddings, and servewith fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be poured overthem. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

SAGO PUDDING. 

1367. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, therind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. Of sugar, 4 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, gratednutmeg, puff-paste. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by theside of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavouredwith the lemon; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, andsimmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, andstir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Linethe edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate alittle nutmeg over the top, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked; but thenallow 2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a butteredbasin from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. 

 SAGO. --Sago is the pith of a species of palm (_Cycas circinalis_). Its form is that of a small round grain. There are two sorts of sago, --the white and the yellow; but their properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is cooked, becomes transparent and soft, and retains its original shape. Its alimentary properties are the same as those of tapioca and arrowroot. 

SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS. 

1368. INGREDIENTS. --1 tablespoonful of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pintof port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste;when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon. 

_Mode_. --Wash the sago in two or three waters; then put it into asaucepan, with the water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently by theside of the fire for 10 minutes; then take out the lemon-peel, add theremaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular to strainthe lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial, will befound a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such asthose made of bread, raisins, rice, &c. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING. 

1369. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. Ofsugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. Of butter, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them init by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour; then strain it, and mixwith it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over thefire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in theeggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edgeswith puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little ofwhich may be poured over the pudding. 

_Time_. --40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 SEMOLINA. --After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful ingredient that can be used for thickening soups, meat or vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening, light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant, the aged, and the invalid. That of a clear yellow colour, well dried and newly made, is the fittest for use. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

1370. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind, orbitter almonds. 

_Mode_. --Wash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by theside of the fire for 1/4 hour, occasionally stirring it; then let itcool a little; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should bewell beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, puttingin about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever ispreferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put inthe pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding isboiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered basin 1-1/2hour. 

_Time_. --1 hour to bake, 1-1/2 hour to boil. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 TAPIOCA. --Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being easy of digestion. It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed with milk or water, and butter. It is excellent food for either the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly digested without fatigue to the stomach. 

TARTLETS. 

1371. INGREDIENTS. --Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marmalade thatmay be preferred. 

[Illustration: DISH OF TARTLETS. ]

_Mode_. --Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; buttersome small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off thesuperfluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece ofbread into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape), and bake in abrisk oven for about 10 minutes, or rather longer. When they are done, and are of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out carefully, andreplace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Dish them high on awhite d'oyley, piled high in the centre, and serve. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. Each. _Sufficient_. --1lb. Of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING. 

1372. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. Of treacle, 1/2teaspoonful of grated ginger. 

_Mode_. --Make, with 1 lb. Of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215;roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and spread the treacle equallyover it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins; close the endssecurely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boilingwater, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, beingeconomical, and a favourite one with children; it is, of course, onlysuitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lardinstead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would besufficiently done in from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Time_. --Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MEAT OR SAUSAGE ROLLS. 

1373. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat No. 837, the yolk of 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Make 1 lb. Of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to thethickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Placesome sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of thepaste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, andtrim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of anegg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about 1/2 hour, or longershould they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, mincedand seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour, or longer if the rolls are large. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_. --1 lb. Of paste for 10 or 12 rolls. 

_Seasonable_, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April. 

SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDINGS. 

1374. INGREDIENTS. --3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar andbutter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence ofvanilla. 

_Mode_. --Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on one sideof the scales the eggs, and on the other the flour; then the sugar, andthen the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands beat it to a cream;gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar, and keep stirring andbeating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth. Thenadd the eggs, which should be well whisked, and either of the aboveflavourings that may be preferred; butter some small cups, rather morethan half-fill them, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/2 hour. Turnthem out, dish them on a napkin, and serve custard or wine-sauce withthem. A pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold, bycutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, andputting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve, such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste forthese puddings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it isbeaten, the better will the puddings be. When served cold, they areusually called _gâteaux à la Madeleine_. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat. 

1375. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of finely-chopped suet, 1/2saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk orwater. 

_Mode_. --Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and mixit well with the flour; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingredientmay be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole into asmooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie the puddingin a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 2-1/2to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of the milkor water, and increase the proportion of suet. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may beboiled in a long shape, and then cut into slices a few minutes beforedinner is served: these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for aminute or two, and then browned before the fire. Most children like thisaccompaniment to roast meat. Where there is a large family of children, and the means of keeping them are limited, it is a most economical planto serve up the pudding before the meat: as, in this case, theconsumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwisewould be. 

SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS. 

1376. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonfulof salt. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste, previouslyadding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round dumplings;drop them into boiling water, and boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They may beserved with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case they may be cookedwith the meat, but should be dropped into the water when it is quiteboiling. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. 

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

VERMICELLI PUDDING. 

1377. INGREDIENTS. --4 oz. Of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint ofcream, 3 oz. Of butter, 3 oz. Of sugar, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stirin the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable. Flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds, or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the edges with puff-paste, put inthe pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 3/4 hour. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. Without cream. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

VERMICELLI. --The finest vermicelli comes from Marseilles, Nimes, andMontpellier. It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiarthread-like form. Vermicelli means, little worms. 

VICARAGE PUDDING. 

1378. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 1/4 lb. Of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 1/2teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stonedthe raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants; mix well with aclean knife; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, andput in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, plunge inthe pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on the dish, and servewith sifted sugar. 

_Time_. --3 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for a winter pudding. 

VOL-AU-VENT (an Entree). 

1379. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 to 1 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1208, fricasseedchickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked andwarmed in thick white sauce. 

[Illustration: VOL-AU-VENT. ]

_Mode_. --Make from 3/4 to 1 lb. Of puff-paste, by recipe No. 1208, taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure itsrising properly; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into agood hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the _vol-au-vent_ willlook very badly. Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1-1/2inch, and, with a fluted cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape, either round or oval, and, with the point of a small knife, make aslight incision in the paste all round the top, about an inch from theedge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the _vol-au-vent_ into agood brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it isput in. Particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven, for the paste _cannot_ rise without a tolerable degree of heat When of anice colour, without being scorched, withdraw it from the oven, instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the softcrumb from the centre: in doing this, be careful not to break the edgesof the _vol-au-vent_; but should they look thin in places, stop themwith small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the white of anegg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragoûtfrom bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of the dish. Fillthe _vol-au-vent_ with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragoût, or theremains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, and do notmake them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the crust: replacethe lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the crust, brush itover with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly. --See colouredplate O1. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to bake the _vol-au-vent_. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of interior, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS. ]

_Note_. --Small _vol-au-vents_ may be made like those shown in theengraving, and filled with minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be madeof the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped out with a smallfluted cutter. 

SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OF PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY OTHER FRESH FRUIT. 

1380. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1208, about 1 pint offruit compôte. 

_Mode_. --Make 1/2 lb. Of puff-paste by recipe No. 1208, taking care tobake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it looklight. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must beboiled down until very thick; fill the _vol-au-vent_ with this, and pileit high in the centre; powder a little sugar over it, and put it back inthe oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose: the_vol-au-vent_ is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruitthat is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants, cherries, apples, &c. ; but care must be taken not to have the syrup toothin, for fear of its breaking through the crust. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte, 1s. 1d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. 

VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 

1381. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1208, 1 pint offreshly-gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whippedcream. 

_Mode_. --Make a _vol-au-vent_ case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite solarge nor so high as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush thepaste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some poundedsugar, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove theinterior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with thestrawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficientsugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream onthe top, and serve. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 _vol-au-vent_. 

_Seasonable_ in June and July. 

 STRAWBERRY. --Among the Greeks, the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity, this fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins, the name reminded one of the delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in the same rank with flowers; and Ovid gives it a tender epithet, which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented air reveals. 

WEST-INDIAN PUDDING. 

1382. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. Of loaf-sugar, 1/2 lb. OfSavoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. Of preserved green ginger. _Mode_. --Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour overthem the cream, which should be previously sweetened and brought to theboiling-point; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and when the creamis soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange the ginger round it, pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; steam orboil it slowly for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with the syrup from the ginger, which should be warmed, and poured over the pudding. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 2s. 8d. 

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 

YEAST DUMPLINGS. 

1383. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 quartern of dough, boiling water. 

Mode. --Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk, instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them intoboiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the instant they aretaken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and becoming heavy; and ineating them do not touch them with a knife, but tear them apart with twoforks. They may be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter and sugar, andif not convenient to make the dough at home, a little from the baker'sanswers as well, only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire, in a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise again before it is madeinto dumplings. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 YEAST consists principally of a substance very similar in composition, and in many of its sensible properties, to gluten; and, when new or fresh, it is inflated and rendered frothy by a large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this substance acts upon the saccharine matter; the temperature rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the result is _ale_, which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or spirit. The quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being small, the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed: hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is remarkable. The fermenting property of yeast is weakened by boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing the boiling. Alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert; on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed during fermentation. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef. 

1384. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 _large_ tablespoonfuls offlour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt. 

[Illustration: YORKSHIRE PUDDING. ]

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually tothis enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectlysmooth, and all the lumps are well rubbed down, add the remainder of themilk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat the mixture for afew minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previouslywell rubbed with beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bakeit for an hour; then, for another 1/2 hour, place it under the meat, tocatch a little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding intosmall square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat isbaked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former ona small three-cornered stand. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, & SWEETDISHES. 

1385. CREAMS. --The yellowish-white, opaque fluid, smooth and unctuous tothe touch, which separates itself from new milk, and forms a layer onits surface, when removed by skimming, is employed in a variety ofculinary preparations. The analyses of the contents of cream have beendecided to be, in 100 parts--butter, 3. 5; curd, or matter of cheese, 3. 5; whey, 92. 0. That cream contains an oil, is evinced by its stainingclothes in the manner of oil; and when boiled for some time, a littleoil floats upon the surface. The thick animal oil which it contains, thewell-known _butter_, is separated only by agitation, as in the commonprocess of _churning_, and the cheesy matter remains blended with thewhey in the state of _buttermilk_. Of the several kinds of cream, theprincipal are the Devonshire and Dutch clotted creams, the Costorphincream, and the Scotch sour cream. The Devonshire cream is produced bynearly boiling the milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal fire, andkept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up. It is usedfor eating with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a villageof that name near Edinburgh, is accelerated in its separation from threeor four days' old milk, by a certain degree of heat; and the Dutchclotted cream--a coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright--ismanufactured from fresh-drawn milk, which is put into a pan, and stirredwith a spoon two or three times a day, to prevent the cream fromseparating from the milk. The Scotch "sour cream" is a misnomer; for itis a material produced without cream. A small tub filled with skimmedmilk is put into a larger one, containing hot water, and after remainingthere all night, the thin milk (called _wigg_) is drawn off, and theremainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is "sour cream. "

1386. JELLIES are not the nourishing food they were at one timeconsidered to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that theyare less digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals; still, when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are verysuitable for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinctprinciple, existing in fruits, which possesses the property ofgelatinizing when boiled and cooled; but it is a principle entirelydifferent from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name ofjelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on thatsubject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is glue, whereas vegetable jelly israther analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in thescale of usefulness. He says, "Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless, and when eaten, excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value; that, evenwhen accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capableof supporting the vital process, and when added to the usual diet as asubstitute for plastic matter, does not increase, but, on the contrary, diminishes the nutritive value of the food, which it rendersinsufficient in quantity and inferior in quality. " It is this substancewhich is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jelliessupplied by the confectioner; but those prepared at home from calves'feet do possess some nutrition, and are the only sort that should begiven to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and isprepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chieflythe sturgeon. From its whiteness it is mostly used for makingblanc-mange and similar dishes. 

1387. THE WHITE OF EGGS is perhaps the best substance that can beemployed in clarifying jelly, as well as some other fluids, for thereason that when albumen (and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen)is put into a liquid that is muddy, from substances suspended in it, onboiling the liquid, the albumen coagulates in a flocculent manner, and, entangling with it the impurities, rises with them to the surface as ascum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight. 

1388. SOUFFLES, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES, in which eggs form theprincipal ingredient, demand, for their successful manufacture, anexperienced cook. They are the prettiest, but most difficult of allentremets. The most essential thing to insure success is to secure thebest ingredients from an honest tradesman. The entremets coming withinthe above classification, are healthy, nourishing, and pleasant to thetaste, and may be eaten with safety by persons of the most delicatestomachs. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

BAKED APPLE CUSTARD. 

1389. INGREDIENTS. --1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste, 1 smallteacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4eggs, 2 oz. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepanwith the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweetenwith moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put thefruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made withthe above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmegover the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish. 

_Time_. --25 to 35 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets). 

1390. INGREDIENTS. --Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good boilingapples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. Of sugar, 2 oz. Of butter, a littleapricot jam. 

_Mode_. --Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them;boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples, and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let thembreak. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, andflavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange theapples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in betweenthem a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in theoven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; eitherbrown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10minutes in the oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. 

_Note_. --The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved foranother occasion. 

FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST. 

_(Sweet Entremets. )_

1391. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. Of whitesugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron. 

_Mode_. --Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it outto the thickness of 1/2 inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with thecrust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form ofthe mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part thatjust rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the casewith flour; bake it for about 3/4 hour; then take it out of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 1/4 hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples, which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out thecores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividingthe apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable ofholding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the aboveproportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out theapples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil downthe syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, andgarnish them with a few slices of candied citron. 

1392. A MORE SIMPLE FLANC may be made by rolling out the paste, cuttingthe bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for thesides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottompiece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugarto sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould;but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and soperfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also beserved hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a littlemelted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very muchimproves their flavour. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes tostew the apples very gently. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLE FRITTERS. 

1393. INGREDIENTS. --For the batter, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 oz. Of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarifiedbeef-dripping. 

_Mode_. --Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beatthem separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, whichshould be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficientwarm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batterthat will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps thatmay be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previouslywell whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready foruse. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, withoutdividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the coreis, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan ofboiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one byone, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turningthem--when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paperbefore the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a whited'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar, and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very muchimproved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed withsugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; thebatter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the frittersare made. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG. 

1394. INGREDIENTS. --About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, 1/2 pint of water, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, the whites of2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds. 

_Mode_. --Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, andstew them very gently in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. Of sugar and 1/2pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Haveready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thinslices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boilgently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred, to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some ofthe marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in theinsides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; thenplace another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmaladeas before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whitesof the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and coverthe apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut eachalmond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances overthe icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, andplace the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for theapples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, andmakes a pretty supper-dish. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. To 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets or Dessert Dishes. 

1395. INGREDIENTS. --Apples; to every lb. Of pulp allow 3/4 lb. Of sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel. 

[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS. ]

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water toprevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. Of pulpallow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water;put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can bewell skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the mincedlemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or untilthe apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is thendone, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped inwater, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for thelatter a little custard should be poured round, and it should begarnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutesto boil after the sugar is added. 

_Sufficient. _--1-1/2 lb. Of apples sufficient for a small mould. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March; but is best in September, October orNovember. 

CLEAR APPLE JELLY. 

1396. INGREDIENTS. --2 dozen apples, 1-1/2 pint of spring-water; to everypint of juice allow 1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. Of isinglass, therind of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them, with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and runthe juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugarand isinglass, which has been previously boiled in 1/2 pint of water, into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/4hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear, and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table, with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of alittle lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render thejelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rathera larger proportion of sugar must be used. 

_Time_. --From 1 to 1-1/2 hour to boil the apples; 1/4 hour the jelly. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a 1-1/2-pint mould. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

A PRETTY DISH OF APPLES AND RICE. 

1397. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. Ofsugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423. 

_Mode_. --Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together fora few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, withsufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice isquite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and corethe apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar andwater in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieveto drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; laythe rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth therice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, onerow sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven tocolour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot, garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middlesufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top ofthe rice, and serve hot. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 3/4 hour to simmerthe rice; 1/4 hour to bake. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE. 

1398. INGREDIENTS. --8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. Ofsugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries, garnishing of apricot jam. 

_Mode_. --Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out thecores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, withoutbeing too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a whiteapple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dishwith this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile themneatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place apreserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candiedcitron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table. 

_Time_. --From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLES IN RED JELLY. 

(_A pretty Supper Dish_. )

1399. INGREDIENTS. --6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar, 1lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few dropsof prepared cochineal. 

_Mode_. --Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores, either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, withouttouching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, thejuice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with adish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, aseach apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left inthe oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil theappearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dishwithout touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have beenstewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and atablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in coldwater, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil tillquite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strainthe jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool _a little_;then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnishthe tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or thewhite of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar. 

_Time_. --From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples. 

_Average cost_, 1s. , with the garnishing. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLES AND RICE. 

_(A Plain Dish. )_

1400. INGREDIENTS. --8 good sized apples, 3 oz. Of butter, the rind of1/2 lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. Of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, sugar totaste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricotjam. 

_Mode_. --Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put theminto a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar overto sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the applesvery gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice, with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done, dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm theapricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot. 

_Time_. --About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about 3/4 hourto cook the rice. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLE SNOW. 

(_A pretty Supper Dish_. )

1401. INGREDIENTS. --10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs, therind of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. Of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them intoa saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them fromburning, --rather less than 1/2 pint. When they are tender, take out thepeel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites ofthe eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add thesifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quitestiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses. The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips ofbright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it, or a jug of cream. 

_Time_. --From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a moderate-sized glass dish. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLE SOUFFLE. 

1402. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz. Of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395. 

_Mode_. --Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is wellflavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swellover a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Thencrush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; linethe bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into theoven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that theborder of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beatenyolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until themixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of theeggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir alltogether, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven forabout 1/2 hour, or until the soufflé rises very light. It should bewatched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it istaken from the oven. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

STEWED APPLES AND CUSTARD. 

(_A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper_. )

1403. INGREDIENTS. --7 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon or 4cloves, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No. 1423. 

_Mode_. --Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividingthem, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and watertogether for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind orcloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until theyare tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on aglass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes, let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite 1/2pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. Afew almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, wouldimprove their appearance. --See coloured plate Q1. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a large glass dish. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLE TRIFLE. 

(_A Supper Dish_. )

1404. INGREDIENTS. --10 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 eggs, whippedcream. 

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put theminto a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and mincedlemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the applesthrough a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a littlemore sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thicklayer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar, over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reachthe boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool alittle, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar, lemon-peel, &c. , the same as for other trifles; heap it high over thecustard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancydictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c. 

_Time_. --From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stirthe custard over the fire. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized trifle. 

_Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APRICOT CREAM. 

1405. INGREDIENTS. --12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1-1/2 pintof milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. Of isinglass. 

_Mode_. --Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in asyrup made with 1/4 lb. Of sugar and 1/4 pint of water, until they forma thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with theother 1/4 lb. Of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolksof eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into ajug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fireuntil it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through asieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity ofwater, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream withthe apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient, set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out onthe dish without any difficulty. 

_Time_. --From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. 

_Note_. --In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, alittle jam may be substituted for them. 

FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust. 

_(Sweet Entremets. )_

1406. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 lb. Of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with itas directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in thesyrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the momentthey are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc orcase; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches, &c. , may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, &c. ; but with the last-named fruits, alittle currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes tosimmer the apricots. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. 

ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE. 

(_An inexpensive Supper Dish_. )

1407. INGREDIENTS. --4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint ofmilk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of the milk;put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel, whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is wellflavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixedarrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring itall the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and whenquite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of anykind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy, stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improvesthe flavour of this sweet dish. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Without the garnishing. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

BLANC-MANGE. 

(_A Supper Dish_. )

1408. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of new milk, 1-1/4 oz. Of isinglass, the rindof 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. Of sweetalmonds, 1 pint of cream. 

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind, and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire untilthe milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanchedand pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up;strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, andstir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a fewminutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiledwith the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be asediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into themould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearanceof the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer byusing 1-1/2 pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 1/2 pint ofboiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by addingbay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of thelemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favouriteliqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour ofthis always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges ofthe blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quicklyover; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smoothglossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has notwhen it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates. 

_Time_. --About 1-1/2 hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in themilk. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 3s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHEAP BLANC-MANGE. 

1409. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. Ofisinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves. 

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE. ]

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gentlyuntil the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertainwhen it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take themout, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pourit into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn itout carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or acompote of fruit. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS. 

1410. INGREDIENTS. --Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4tablespoonfuls of jam. 

_Mode_. --Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cutsome slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of themwith any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices;slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or roundpieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper orcloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT. 

1411. INGREDIENTS. --2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water. 

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD. ]

[Illustration: JELLY-BAG. ]

_Mode_. --The stock for jellies should always be made the day before itis required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can beso much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procurefrom the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash thefeet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the aboveproportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove everyparticle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it verygently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more thanhalf; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a coolplace to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain theproportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat atthe top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pourover a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe thejelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put itinto a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6oz. Of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, andstir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but_do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_. Let it boil about 10minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of coldwater; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, coverit closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-baginto hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand orthe back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent thejelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basinunderneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and shouldit not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stockis the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied ininnumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and bymoulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly beingfirm when turned out, 1/2 oz. Of isinglass clarified might be added tothe above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are nowfrequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and troublein preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two ofthe principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ asnicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made with gelatine. 

_Time_. --About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarifyit, --1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered. 

_Average cost_. --Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. Each when veal isin full season, but more expensive when it is scarce. 

_Sufficient_. --2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year. 

 HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG. --The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap. 

COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES. 

(More Economical than Calf's Feet. )

1412. INGREDIENTS. --2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled;split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them wellin warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion ofcold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises, and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor isreduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feetstock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. Ofisinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it isrequired for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also theday before it is required. 

_Time_. --7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil theshank-bones. 

_Average cost_, from 4d. To 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY. 

(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_. )

1413. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water. 

_Mode_. --Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the aboveproportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil veryfast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum asit rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready foruse. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through afine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz. Of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strongcalf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. For the same quantity offruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it isdifficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, thestiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglassmust be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for allkinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c. , to fill two moderate-sizedmoulds. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may bemixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c. , and then run through thebag. 

 ISINGLASS. --The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy, " and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the commoner sorts of gelatine, --for isinglass is classed amongst gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden. 

HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES. 

1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until thejelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it issufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jellyinto moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it outby placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should thenslip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnishedas taste dictates. 

TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES. 

1415. INGREDIENTS. --To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. Of loaf sugar;the white of 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire, and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped upwith a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer verygently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises, strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep itfor use. 

CALF'S-FEET JELLY. 

1416. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. Ofsugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. Of isinglass. 

_Mode_. --Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking careto leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Putit into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remainingingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placedon the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do notstir it after it begins to warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water, boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side ofthe fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering, the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particularattention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in theslightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added whenthe jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmerfor turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to astand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basinunderneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectlyclear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy isobtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pourin the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand, surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and befirmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in whichto put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, byher jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless agreat deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the mouldsin hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish onthe top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slipout easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piledhigh in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter ortin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the compositionbeing often spoiled by using the latter. 

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD. ]

To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted forthe sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead ofcalf's feet. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered. 

_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d. Each, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to makethe jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the otheringredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to. 

SHERRY. --There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and thereare various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of theagreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh andfiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years. Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea thatit is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experimentson wines do not fully confirm this opinion. 

CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS. 

(_Sweet Entremets_. )

1417. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kindof preserve that may be preferred; hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, withjam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a verypretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205;roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in thefrying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of anice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they arecoloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before thefire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preservedfruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laidin the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded andfried in the same manner as stated above. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_, --1/2 lb. Of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons. 

_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time. 

CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES. 

1418. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick, clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry. 

[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES. ]

_Mode_. --Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plainround mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the heightof the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarifiedbutter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrowstrips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that nojuice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to themould. Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist tomake the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a roundpiece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of alight colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top, and pour round it a little melted apricot jam. 

_Time_. --40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. 

AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES. 

1419. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Ofpowdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glassof raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder;moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the properconsistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out themiddle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent thembreaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmedinto neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficientraisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soakthem well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395;place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and alayer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar andlemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it withpieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eatenhot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with brightjelly just before it is sent to table. 

_Time_. --1 hour to bake the cake. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. 

A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

1420. INGREDIENTS. --9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sizedapples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice, moist sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, withoutthe crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cutinto thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel andjuice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread andbutter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dishis full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve thetop from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, andserve. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_. )

1421. INGREDIENTS. --About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream, flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of poundedsugar, 1/2 oz. Of isinglass. 

_Mode_. --Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as theyare sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg, and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star orrosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them soclosely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, andplace this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg. Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and meltedisinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cakecut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain tillready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, wouldnicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuitsin the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit innicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out, there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention isrequired in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burstthe case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantityof egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so preventthe charlotte from coming away properly. 

_Time_. --5 minutes in the oven. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CREAM A LA VALOIS. 

1422. INGREDIENTS. --4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar totaste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. Ofisinglass. 

_Mode_. --Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, withpreserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherrymixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with thelemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved ina little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiledmould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould withthe remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling themould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn outmore easily than when merely dipped in cold water. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BOILED CUSTARDS. 

1423. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. Of loaf sugar, 3laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence ofvanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. 

[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES. ]

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, andwhichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rindflavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the sideof the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point ofboiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when themilk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixtureinto a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no accountallow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and befull of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when thisis well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should berather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better, ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to theflavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinaryeggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. Whendesired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for themilk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omittingthe whites. 

_Time_. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir thecustard. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

GINGER APPLES. 

(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_. )

1424. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3lbs. Of apples, 2 lbs. Of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons. 

_Mode_. --Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour oversufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cutthe apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugarand the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together_very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Servecold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel orpreserved ginger. 

_Time_. --3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the applesvery gently. 

_Average cost_, 2s, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes. _Seasonable_ from July to March. 

FRENCH PANCAKES. 

1425. INGREDIENTS. --2 eggs, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 oz. Of sifted sugar, 2oz. Of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk. 

_Mode_. --Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with thebutter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirringand beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon andsifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer ofpreserve or marmalade between each. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

DUTCH FLUMMERY. 

1426. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, orraisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into abasin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with poundedsugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in asaucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one wayuntil it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_. Strain it intoa mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and putit in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in justbefore it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish:it is better if made the day before it is required for table. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir themixture over the fire. 

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d. , if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people. The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the London dealers. 

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE. 

1427. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. Of the best chocolate. 

_Mode_. --Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and putthem into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, andchocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir theseingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in theother basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with theyolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a roundcake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over thetop of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table. The properappearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which itis served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamanderover the soufflé until it is placed on the table. If allowed to standafter it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it fallsalmost immediately. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized soufflé. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

DARIOLES A LA VANILLE. 

(_Sweet Entremets_. )

1428. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. Of flour, 3 oz. Of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. Of butter, puff-paste, flavouringof essence of vanilla. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in thecream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter, which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, dropby drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-mouldswith puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in agood oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. Theflavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla. 

_Time_. --25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CURRANT FRITTERS. 

1429. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar totaste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which shouldpreviously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stirthese ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice, currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, ifnot sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in smallquantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry thefritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece ofblotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strewover sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to tablewith them. 

_Time_. --From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM. 

1430. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1-1/2pint of cream, 1/2 oz. Of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs. 

[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with thegrated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir theseingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in asaucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but _do not allow it to boil_, or it will curdle. Strain the creamthrough a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, andpour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purestsalad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire. 

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

GENEVA WAFERS. 

1431. INGREDIENTS. --2 eggs, 3 oz. Of butter, 3 oz. Of flour, 3 oz. Ofpounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to themthe butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and siftedsugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a spacebetween each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, whenhalf done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of breador piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven untilcrisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve inthe widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very prettyand ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and veryeasily made. 

_Time_. --Altogether 20 to 25 minutes. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for a nice-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

GINGER CREAM. 

1432. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. Ofpreserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1oz. Of isinglass. 

_Mode_. --Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup, the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients welltogether, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until themixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted andstrained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished withslices of preserved ginger or candied citron. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for a good-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots, fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh. 

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL. 

1433. INGREDIENTS. --Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pintof milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into ajar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; setthis jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruitis soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work thispulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion ofmilk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture issweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; andin mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually tothese: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a veryold-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and, if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per pint, with milk. 

_Sufficient_. --A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6children. 

_Seasonable_ in May and June. 

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE. 

1434. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint ofcustard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream. 

_Mode_. --Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar tosweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp atthe bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made byrecipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The creamshould be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will thenbe so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancydictates. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ in May and June. 

INDIAN FRITTERS. 

1435. INGREDIENTS. --3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolksof 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient_boiling_ water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir andbeat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time tocool, and then break into it (_without beating them at first_) the yolksof 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Haveready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter inat a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise somuch as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful ofpreserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is anexcellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedlyarrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a greatfavourite. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the jam, 5d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

INDIAN TRIFLE. 

1436. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugarto taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. Of sweet almonds, 1/2 pint of custard. 

_Mode_. --Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is wellflavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, whichshould first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugarto sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep themixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool _a little_, and pourit into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star, or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, andfill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds intostrips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces ofbrightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: THE CITRON. ]

 THE CITRON. --The citron belongs to the same species as the lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed the Forbidden Fruit. 

ITALIAN CREAM. 

1437. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1oz. Of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten, and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain itinto a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into ajug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, andstir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil. Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass, which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice ifat hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste maydictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into smallglasses, when this mode of serving is preferred. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN. 

(_A pretty Supper Dish_. )

1438. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam. 

_Mode_. --Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix themand beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, andsufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is wellbeaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; butit should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover itwith jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dishis served cold. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to fry the mixture. 

_Average cost_, with the jam, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

JAUNEMANGE. 

1439. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint ofwhite wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, theyolks of 6 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, andboil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strainedlemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the wholenicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and addthe yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in asaucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until itthickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, andkeep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting thesediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes tostir the mixture in the jug. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS. 

1440. INGREDIENTS. --Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nicestrawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any freshfruit that may be in season. 

_Mode_. --Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be veryclear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantityof sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unlesscurrants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from thetree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, whichmust harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould, recollecting; that _it will be reversed when turned out;_ then pour insome more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set, put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. Ifconvenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a clothin boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn thejelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c. , are betterfor being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in thejelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are putin raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very prettyjelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in abright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless thejelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may begarnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, anopen jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few ofthe same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might besubstituted for the fruit. 

[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES. ]

_Time_. --One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place, before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at anytime. 

JELLY OF TWO COLOURS. 

1441. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a fewdrops of prepared cochineal. 

[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS. ]

_Mode_. --Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished moreeconomical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any waythat may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops ofprepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Haveready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of thered jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the samequantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in thismanner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly setbefore the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into theother. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. Forvariety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies, and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very prettyeffect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is pouredin small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, orblancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look verywell. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch indepth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another isadded. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly arefrequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made, in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, bymelting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plateS1. )

_Time_. --3/4 hour to make the jelly. 

_Average cost_, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s. ; with gelatine and syrup, more economical. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, orthe colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly. 

LEMON BLANCMANGE. 

1442. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. Ofground rice, 6 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. Of fresh butter, the rindof 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. Of gelatine. 

[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and 1/2 pint of themilk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of themilk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and3 oz. Of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture isstiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl wherethe custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with therest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of thefire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into thebasin, adding 3 oz. More of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in thelemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixtureinto a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mouldin a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that haverich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather alarger proportion of gelatine must be allowed. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 2 small moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON CREAM. 

1443. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. Ofwhite sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. Of isinglass. 

[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the cream into a _lined_ saucepan with the sugar, lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, addthe yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into asaucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; take it off the fire, and keep stirringit until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, graduallypour on it the cream, and _stir it well_ until the juice is well mixedwith it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and letit remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edgeswith a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn itover quickly, and the cream should easily slip away. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it overthe fire in the jug. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM. 

1444. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. Ofgelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. Of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, whichshould be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lumpsugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolksof the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour themixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stirbriskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keepstirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, andlet it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added tothe cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is putin. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil the milk. _Average cost_, 2s. 5d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON CREAMS. 

(_Very good_. )

1445. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses ofsherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with thecream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, andsufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly fromone jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour itinto jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool anddelicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting thealmonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS. 

1446. INGREDIENTS. --5 oz. Of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, therind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:--Dissolve thesugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar, rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain thelemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should bewell beaten; stir this _one way_ over the fire until the mixturethickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, oron a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar andlemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs areadded to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir thecustard over the fire. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON JELLY. 

1447. INGREDIENTS. --6 lemons, 3/4 lb. Of lump sugar, 1 pint of water, 1-1/2 oz. Of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry. 

_Mode_. --Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on therind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion ofthe rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, addthe wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that hasbeen wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where letit remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juiceto the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as, if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jellythick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, itanswers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; forinstance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above, would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made withcalf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint ofstock. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON SPONGE. 

1448. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. Ofpounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3eggs. 

_Mode_. --Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan, and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins tostiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk themixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has beenpreviously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn itout, and garnish it according to taste. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LIQUEUR JELLY. 

1449. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of lump sugar, 2 oz. Of isinglass, 1-1/2 pintof water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur. 

[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, andboil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scumremaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil theisinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in thesame manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarifiedisinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to theboiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the firefor a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into amould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mouldin hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a kniferound the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for thisjelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usuallyprepared as directed above. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the sugar and water. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI. 

1450. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of1/2 lemon, 3 oz. Of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar;bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let itgradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break. The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should befirm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dryaway before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more. Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, andpour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg, and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron. 

_Time_. --From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni. 

_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

MERINGUES. 

1451. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs. 

[Illustration: MERINGUES. ]

_Mode_. --Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with awooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boardsthick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringuesfrom acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 incheswide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a timeof the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be thesame size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form ofan egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other onthe paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderateoven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from theoven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on thetable, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. Whenrequired for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueuror vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringuestogether, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexeddrawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currantsmay be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they maybe garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition isnecessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not putinto the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping itsegg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be;but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will mostlikely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, ifkept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or sixweeks. 

_Time_. --Altogether, about 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

NOYEAU CREAM. 

1452. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream. 

_Mode_. --Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add thelemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeauand sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the creamwell, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a coolplace; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint and the best isinglass, 4s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 

(_A very pretty dish_. )

1453. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass ofsherry, sugar to taste. 

[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM. ]

_Mode_. --Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly, colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak amould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill itwith the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set;then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this creamhigh in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a darkcolour, to contrast nicely with the cream. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ORANGE JELLY. 

1454. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. Of isinglass, 1/2lb. Of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges. 

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, andthe rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over thefire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add tothis the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, andsufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fireuntil it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain thejelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, putit into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on adish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, theorange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglassclarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, toheighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it isadded. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May. 

ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE. 

1455. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1pint of clarified syrup. 

_Mode_. --Boil 1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until thereis no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, withoutbreaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup, where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and usethe syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. Whenthe oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour alittle of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a fewpieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until themould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning itout, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has beenwrung out in boiling water. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to simmer the oranges. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET. 

1456. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful ofpepper, 1/4 lb. Of butter. 

[Illustration: OMELET. ]

_Mode_. --Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beatthem up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz. Of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture. Put the other 2 oz. Of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and, as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. Very briskly for aminute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoonone way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the wholeis set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form;and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. Totake off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire fora minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Servevery expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it isjust wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced byadding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of thelatter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also beadded: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then beardedand cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly carefulthat it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too largea frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste ofthe outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, andshould be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance maybe heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes servedwith gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in atureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavourshould not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened witharrowroot or rice flour. 

_Time_. --With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

HAM OMELET (_A delicious Breakfast Dish_. )

1457. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 4 oz. Of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham. 

_Mode_. --Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir inthe ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any saltto the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart aflavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally wellfor this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously tomixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy. 

_Time_. --From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

KIDNEY OMELET (_A favourite French dish_. )

1458. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful ofpepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in afrying-pan, in 1 oz. Of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mixthe ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and whenthe eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butterhot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fryit over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, foldthe edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be carefulthat it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before thefire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colouris obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully onto a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on theomelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instantit comes from the fire. 

_Time_. --4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET. 

1459. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 4 oz. Of butter, 2 oz. Of sifted sugar. 

_Mode_. --Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whiskthem well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. Of the butter, which should bebroken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together. Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, andwhen it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring themuntil they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to makeit an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the panbefore the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a_very hot_ dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve. 

_Time_. --From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET. 

1460. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 4 oz. Of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls ofapricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred. 

_Mode_. --Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling itover, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on oneside, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of itthe jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugarover, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be madeby dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately;they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve, and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with siftedsugar before being sent to table. 

_Time_. --4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ. 

1461. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 5 oz. Of pounded sugar, flavouring ofvanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. Of butter, 1dessert-spoonful of rice-flour. 

_Mode_. --Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to theformer the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavouringsthat may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whipthe whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put thebutter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour thebatter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and whenthe omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, andslip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered. Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinklefinely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and _serve it immediately_. 

_Time_. --About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_. 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BACHELOR'S OMELET. 

1462. INGREDIENTS. --2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. Of butter, 1 teaspoonful offlour, 1/2 teacupful of milk. 

_Mode_. --Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in thebatter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; thensprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion;double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hotdish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process, substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs. 

_Time_. --2 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ORANGE CREAM. 

1463. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugarto taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream. 

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, andput it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to makein all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it tothe other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes. Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint ofthick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream, and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. Ofisinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion ofingredients. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the juice and water. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

ORANGE CREAMS. 

1464. INGREDIENTS. --1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream. 

_Mode_. --Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat itin a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of theorange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes, adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to theboiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, andbeat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place thecups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quitecold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops ofthe creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 3/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 1s. 7d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 creams. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

_Note_. --To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for thecream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm. 

 SEVILLE ORANGE (_Citrus vulgaris_). --This variety, called also _bitter orange_, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges, which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic, much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange. The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a sweetmeat. 

ORANGE FRITTERS. 

1465. INGREDIENTS. --For the batter, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 oz. Of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarifieddripping. 

_Mode_. --Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour, butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the properconsistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin aspossible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking thethin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange inthe batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; dropin the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. Whendone, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drainaway the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkleover them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly. 

_Time_. --8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES. 

1466. INGREDIENTS. --6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint ofwater, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugarto taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them untilthe sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a smallquantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar issufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove asmuch of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sizedslices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicypulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hotsugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should bewell oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only shouldbe lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Letthe sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on adish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind ofliqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedinglyornamental and nice dish for the supper-table. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the sugar. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May. 

TO MAKE PANCAKES. 

1467. INGREDIENTS. --Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. Offlour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt. 

[Illustration: PANCAKES. ]

_Mode_. --Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately ina cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, anda few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly _smooth_ batter;then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of thislatter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c. ;but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency ofthick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it bedelicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, putinto it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. To each pancake. When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it isnicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter, and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (anoperation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When thepancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in thepan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish beforethe fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish;then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a furtherquantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediatelythey come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a littlegrated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in theminstead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them. To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggsshould be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to thebatter before frying. 

_Time_. --from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not requireturning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one. 

_Average cost_, for 3 persons, 6d. 

_Sufficient. _--Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion, for 3 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday. 

RICHER PANCAKES. 

1468. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, 1glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour. 

_Mode_. --Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well, strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and asmuch flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinarypancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour insufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugarbetween each, and serve. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 2s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 8 pancakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 

1469. INGREDIENTS. --For the batter: 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 oz. Of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;--peaches, hot lard or clarifieddripping. 

_Mode_. --Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed inrecipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should bequite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard orclarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point beforethe peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to frythem, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on awhite d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve. 

_Time_. --From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drainthem. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. 

[Illustration: PEACH. ]

 PEACH. --The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the generic name, separating them from _Amygdalus_, or Almond, to which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical, they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection: hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons, without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin, of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve. 

PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE. 

1470. INGREDIENTS. --6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. Of butter, theyolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. Of gelatine. 

_Mode_. --Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, andsteep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into asaucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them withthe butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; thenbrush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with siftedsugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boilit up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let itremain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little preparedcochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish. 

_Time_. --From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes toboil the syrup. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for a large dish. 

_Seasonable_ from August to February. 

MOULDED PEARS. 

1471. INGREDIENTS. --4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar totaste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, astrip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. Of gelatine. 

_Mode_. --Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten thewhole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in agentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. Whendone, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, andboil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine, lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boilquickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; putthe mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on aglass dish. 

_Time_. --2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_ from August to February

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

(_An elegant Dish_. )

1472. INGREDIENTS. --A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy orliqueur, 2 oz. Of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393. 

_Mode_. --This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, isreally not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them nowin such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may bepurchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, beeconomical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries forthe purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste aspossible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in theabove proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours;then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting creamfor the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this isready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, whendone, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a whited'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly. 

_Time_. --5 to 8 minutes. 

_Average cost_, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. For the pine. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August. 

 PINEAPPLE. --The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the 17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. Is represented as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is presenting it on his knees. 

PLAIN FRITTERS. 

1473. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk. 

[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of themilk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then theremainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, andshould it be found not quite thin enough, add two or threetablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty ofboiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a timeof the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them whensufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasymoisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before thefire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, andsend to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar. 

_Time_. --From 6 to 8 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

POTATO FRITTERS. 

1474. INGREDIENTS. --2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard. 

[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but donot use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well, leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat alltogether for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremelylight. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop atablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters anice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:--A glass of sherrymixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar tosweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauceseparately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a whited'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be welldrained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to beingdished. 

_Time_. --From 6 to 8 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RASPBERRY CREAM. 

1475. INGREDIENTS. --3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. Ofisinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, oruntil the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into abasin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly, which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till theingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add alittle pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well untilnearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool placetill perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, butmust be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: insummer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing itwith a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flowsfrom the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If thecolour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may beadded to improve its appearance. (_See_ coloured plate T1. )

_Time_. --1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_, with jelly, at any time. 

_Note_. --Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner, substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry. 

RICE BLANCMANGE. 

1476. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of ground rice, 3 oz. Of loaf sugar, 1 oz. Of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence ofalmonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves. 

_Mode_. --Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of themilk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, andwhichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk tothe boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping itwell stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour inthe rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quiteeasily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compôte of any kind offruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better forbeing made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to becomefirm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in themilk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops ofessence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, wouldbe required to flavour the above proportion of milk. 

_Time_. --From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICE CROQUETTES. 

1477. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. Of poundedsugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg andbread crumbs, hot lard. 

_Mode_. --Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let theformer gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is driedup; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence ofany of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it intosmall round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with breadcrumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning themabout, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture fromthem, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute ortwo; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. Asmall piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of eachcroquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to frythe croquettes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 croquettes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICE FRITTERS. 

1478. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. Of sugar, 1oz. Of fresh butter 6 oz. Of orange marmalade, 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over aslow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole overthe fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish tothe thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectlycold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as forapple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to frythe fritters. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 fritters. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICE SNOWBALLS. (_A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers_. )

1479. INGREDIENTS. --6 oz. Of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring ofessence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423. 

_Mode_. --Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring ofessence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, alittle more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quitesoft, put it into teacups, or _small_ round jars, and let it remainuntil cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over acustard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place asmall piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanillamay be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, wheneither of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard mustcorrespond with that of the rice. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to swell the rice in the milk. 

_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICE SOUFFLE. 

1480. INGREDIENTS. --3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter the sizeof a walnut. 

_Mode_. --Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quitesmoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk andbutter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 1/4 hour, or untilthe mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficientpounded sugar to sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter ingredient assparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighterwill be the soufflé. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff frothor snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into asoufflé-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about 1/2 hourin a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel overthe top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the soufflé to table inthe dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosedin a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dishentirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, themanner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table. Soufflés should be served _instantly_ from the oven, or they will sink, and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE A SOUFFLE. 

1481. INGREDIENTS. --3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butterthe size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoonful of saltflavouring. 

_Mode_. --Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredientsis used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with theremainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar tosweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until themixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, andstir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs tothe firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of thedish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essenceof any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange, ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, put it immediatelyinto the oven, and bake for about 1/2 hour; then take it out, put thedish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose;hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, strew it with siftedsugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a souffléwell, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, theoven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from theoven. If the soufflé be ever so well made, and it is allowed to standbefore being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirelyspoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured in various ways, but must be namedaccordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherchéflavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold thesalamander over. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE. 

(_A very pretty Supper Dish_. )

1482. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweetenit nicely, and the rind of 1/2 lemon. Let this steep by the side of thefire for 1/2 hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from theyolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, oruntil there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point, and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning theeggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat upthe yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar, and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan ofboiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but donot allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over theeggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedinglypretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place afterbeing made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water, it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence ofeither may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. Inmaking the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always beadded. 

_Time_. --About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir thecustard. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

STONE CREAM OF TOUS LES MOIS. 

1483. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. Of lumpsugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence ofcloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring. 

_Mode_. --Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milkinto a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smoothbatter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it brisklyinto the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes. When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam, and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit. 

_Time_. --2 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY. 

1484. INGREDIENTS. --Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juiceallow 1-1/4 oz. Of isinglass. 

_Mode_. --Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them wellwith a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten themnicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted;then add 1/2 pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain thestrawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pintallow 1-1/4 oz. Of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water. Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mouldin ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves theflavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be wellstrained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make thejelly muddy. 

_Time_. --1 hour to draw the juice. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1-1/2 pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

SWISS CREAM. 

1485. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes, sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. Of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls ofarrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoonfulsof milk. 

_Mode_. --Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pourover them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak themwell. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar andlemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream iswell flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothlywith the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently forabout 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stirtill nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over thecakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cutthin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedinglydelicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouringis used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the_dry_ cakes. 

_Time_. --About 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil thecream. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE SYLLABUB. 

1486. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty ofpounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up. Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmegand sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milkis put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: whenthis is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured onfrom a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TIPSY CAKE. 

1487. INGREDIENTS. --1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake, sufficient sweetwine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. Of sweetalmonds, 1 pint of rich custard. 

[Illustration: TIPSY CAKE. ]

_Mode_. --Procure a cake that is three or four days old, --either sponge, Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottomof the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small holein the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine orsherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely. When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips, stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made byrecipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. Thecakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped overthem, the same as for trifles. 

_Time_. --About 2 hours to soak the cake. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 ALMOND. --The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin. It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August. There are two sorts of almonds, --sweet and bitter; but they are considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not distinguishable by their appearance. 

AN EASY WAY OF MAKING A TIPSY CAKE. 

1488. INGREDIENTS. --12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. Ofjam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423. 

_Mode_. --Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this accountthey should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deepglass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pourround them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating thetop with cut preserved fruit. 

_Time_. --2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE A TRIFLE. 

1489. INGREDIENTS. --For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. Of poundedsugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. Forthe trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozenratafias, 2 oz. Of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer ofraspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

[Illustration: TRIFLE. ]

_Mode_. --The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made theday before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it ismuch more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowlthe pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to astiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk theseingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmeras fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue thewhisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away ina cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons, and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint ofsherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, shouldthis proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a littlemore, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the gratedlemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layerof raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423, using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool alittle; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the daypreviously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now butheap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high aspossible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly, crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits aresometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are nowconsidered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1. )

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 5s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

VANILLA CREAM. 

1490. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. Of sugar, 1 oz. Of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla. 

[Illustration: VANILLA-CREAM MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot overa slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually thesweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put themixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water. Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixturethickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Takeit off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previouslydissolved in about 1/4 pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes;pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, andturn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence ofvanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour iswell extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient forthe above proportion of ingredients. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to stir the mixture. 

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The essence is the form in which it is used generally and most conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections generally. 

VICTORIA SANDWICHES. 

1491. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, andflour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam ormarmalade. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and poundedsugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, whichshould be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been wellbeaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in thebatter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over itthe other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and thencut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish, and serve. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c. 

1492. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. Of pounded sugar, 1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of 1/2lemon, the white of 1 egg. 

[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF. ]

_Mode_. --Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar untilquite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put thecream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whipit to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made theday before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The creamshould be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it isobtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, andgarnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces ofbright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to thesupper-table. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour to whip the cream. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 dish or 1 trifle. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. 

1493. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half thatquantity of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3oz. Of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489. 

_Mode_. --Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub intoglasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made inthe same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made bywhisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in theglasses, without the whipped cream at the top. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 or 9 glasses. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

THE CURE'S OMELET. 

"Every one knows, " says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste, ""that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman inParis. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, andtook a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult theCuré of ---- respecting the working of an institution, she went to hishouse at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished atfinding him already at his dinner-table. 

"Madame Récamier wished to retire, but the Curé would not hear of it. Aneat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in acrystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heatersof boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was inattendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury. The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table asalmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad. 

"'My dinner will tell you, ' said the worthy Curé, with a smile, 'that itis fast-day, according to our Church's regulations. ' Madame Récamier andher host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed askilful hand, the countenance of the Curé the while showingsatisfaction. 

"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick, and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth. 

"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it, pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it;and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, itmade her mouth water. 

"'It is an _omelette au thon_' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), saidthe Curé, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of MadameRécamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it. '

"'It surprises me not at all, ' returned the beauty; 'never has soenticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables. '

"'My cook understands them well, I think. '

"'Yes, ' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful. '"

Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who placeconfidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theorythat it makes people younger. 

Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of threeapples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little roundtable was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, sojustly famous. 

"'I never, ' said the Curé, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to myguests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it shouldplease Providence to grant me that. '

"Finally, the charming Madame Récamier took her leave, and told all herfriends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of. "

And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealedtreasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscuritythe details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and whichhe imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable. 

Here follows the recipe:--

OMELETTE AU THON. 

1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp; [Footnote: An Americanwriter says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c. , in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quietconscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success. ] bleach them, byputting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take apiece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a smallshalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as tomix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficientquantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted!This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece ofbutter, _à discrétion_, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in along-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of alemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresherthe better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as tomix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner, endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefullyon the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to bereserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meetwho know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will workwonders. 

_Note_. --The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) withoutallowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would preventthem mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards thecentre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with aspoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold chinawill extract all the heat from the omelet. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXX. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ICES, AND DESSERTDISHES. 

PRESERVES. 

1495. From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from theirnot passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies, themode of preserving them is somewhat different, although the generalprinciples are the same. All the means of preservation are put inpractice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables, according to the nature of the species, the climate, the uses to whichthey are applied, &c. Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, &c. ; others are preserved by means of sugar, such as many fruits whosedelicate juices would be lost by drying; some are preserved by means ofvinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles; a few also bysalting, as French beans; while others are preserved in spirits. Wehave, however, in this place to treat of the best methods of preservingfruits. Fruit is a most important item in the economy of health; theepicurean can scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it;therefore, as it is so invaluable, when we cannot have it fresh, we musthave it preserved. It has long been a desideratum to preserve fruits bysome cheap method, yet by such as would keep them fit for the variousculinary purposes, as making tarts and other similar dishes. The expenseof preserving them with sugar is a serious objection; for, except thesugar is used in considerable quantities, the success is very uncertain. Sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable inmany fruits: these which are preserved in this manner are chieflyintended for the dessert. Fruits intended for preservation should begathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them, if possible; they will then have their fullest flavour, and keep in goodcondition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit canbe used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or arefrigerator. In an icehouse it will remain fresh and plump for severaldays. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed, andbe of no service for preserves. 

1496. Having secured the first and most important contribution to themanufacture of preserves, --the fruit, the next consideration is thepreparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended; and thisrequires much care. In the confectioner's art there is a great nicety inproportioning the degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly toeach particular case; and they know this by signs, and express it bycertain technical terms. But to distinguish these properly requires verygreat attention and considerable experience. The principal thing to beacquainted with is the fact, that, in proportion as the syrup is longerboiled, its water will become evaporated, and its consistency will bethicker. Great care must be taken in the management of the fire, thatthe syrup does not boil over, and that the boiling is not carried tosuch an extent as to burn the sugar. 

1497. The first degree of consistency is called _the thread_, which issubdivided into the little and great thread. If you dip the finger intothe syrup and apply it to the thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, onseparating the finger and thumb, afford a thread, which shortly breaks:this is the little thread. If the thread, from the greater tenacity, and, consequently, greater strength of the syrup, admits of a greaterextension of the finger and thumb, it is called the great thread. Thereare half a dozen other terms and experiments for testing the variousthickness of the boiling sugar towards the consistency called _caramel_;but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner. A solutionof sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar (thebest sugar is the most economical for preserves) in one of water, andboiling this a little, affords a syrup of the right degree of strength, and which neither ferments nor crystallizes. This appears to be thedegree called _smooth_ by the confectioners, and is proper to be usedfor the purposes of preserves. The syrup employed should sometimes beclarified, which is done in the following manner:--Dissolve 2 lbs. Ofloaf sugar in a pint of water; add to this solution the white of an egg, and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan upon the fire with thesolution; stir it with a wooden spatula, and, when it begins to swelland boil up, throw in some cold water or a little oil, to damp theboiling; for, as it rises suddenly, if it should boil over, it wouldtake fire, being of a very inflammable nature. Let it boil up again;then take it off, and remove carefully the scum that has risen. Boil thesolution again, throw in a little more cold water, remove the scum, andso on for three or four times successively; then strain it. It isconsidered to be sufficiently boiled when some taken up in a spoon poursout like oil. 

1498. Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation, and is, in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinousstage of that process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity besufficient to constitute a very strong syrup: hence, syrups are used topreserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes theywould undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use, honey wasemployed to preserve many vegetable productions, though this substancehas now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane. 

1499. The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are, apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, and pears. As an example, take some apricots not too ripe, make a smallslit at the stem end, and push out the stone; simmer them in water tillthey are softened and about half done, and afterwards throw them intocold water. When they have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put theapricots into the pie-serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them;let them boil up three or four times, and then skim them; remove themfrom the fire, pour them into an earthen pan, and let them cool tillnext day. Boil them up three days successively, skimming each time, andthey will then be finished and in a state fit to be put into pots foruse. After each bailing, it is proper to examine into the state of thesyrup when cold; if too thin, it will bear additional boiling; if toothick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard. Thereason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into anearthen pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper, ofwhich the preserving-pans are usually made. From this example theprocess of preserving fruits by syrup will be easily comprehended. Thefirst object is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water, in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may penetrate throughits substance. 

1500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose much of theirpeculiar and delicate flavour, as, for instance, pine-apples; and thisinconvenience may, in some instances, be remedied by preserving themwithout heat. Cut the fruit in slices about one fifth of an inch thick, strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of ajar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, and then anotherlayer of the slices, and so on till the jar is full. Place the jar withthe fruit up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till thesugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, removing thescum as it rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, or cork and wax it. 

1501. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may beconverted into dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, andthen drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them aquantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate thefruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They shouldbe dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six or eighthours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they areturned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawersor boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, inbunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavour. In this way itis, also, that orange and lemon chips are preserved. 

1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are of the same nature, and arenow in very general request. They are prepared without difficulty, byattending to a very few directions; they are somewhat expensive, but maybe kept without spoiling for a considerable time. Marmalades and jamsdiffer little from each other: they are preserves of a half-liquidconsistency, made by boiling the pulp of fruits, and sometimes part ofthe rinds, with sugar. The appellation of marmalade is applied to thoseconfitures which are composed of the firmer fruits, as pineapples or therinds of oranges; whereas jams are made of the more juicy berries, suchas strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, &c. Fruit pastes area kind of marmalades, consisting of the pulp of fruits, first evaporatedto a proper consistency, and afterwards boiled with sugar. The mixtureis then poured into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin, andsubsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the stateof a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formedinto any shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams requirethe same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade; the slightestdegree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and ifthey are not boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. That they maykeep, it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar. 

1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-panis used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unlessthe jam is made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the panis placed close on to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, andthe colour and flavour be consequently spoiled. 

1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined withsugar, concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid, upon cooling, assumes the form of a tremulous jelly. 

1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup, after which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire;the syrup is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, andthe fruit dipped in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy:they are then to be put into boxes, and kept dry. 

1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniformmass with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtuesand properties of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits, unaltered, and as near as possible to what they were when freshgathered, and to give them an agreeable taste. 

1507. The last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation offruit, is the _compôte, _ a confiture made at the moment of need, andwith much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They aremost wholesome things, suitable to most stomachs which cannotaccommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar: theyare the happy medium, and far better than ordinary stewed fruit. 

CONFECTIONARY. 

1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all thevarious preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under thathead; for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, which, when boiled with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well asfor sweetmeats, were called _confections_, from the Latin word_conficere_, 'to make up;' but the term confectionary embraces a verylarge class indeed of sweet food, many kinds of which should not beattempted in the ordinary cuisine. The thousand and one ornamentaldishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be purchased from theconfectioner: they cannot profitably be made at home. Apart from these, cakes, biscuits, and tarts, &c. , the class of sweetmeats calledconfections may be thus classified:--1. Liquid confects, or fruitseither whole or in pieces, preserved by being immersed in a fluidtransparent syrup; as the liquid confects of apricots, green citrons, and many foreign fruits. 2. Dry confects are those which, after havingbeen boiled in the syrup, are taken out and put to dry in an oven, ascitron and orange-peel, &c. 3. Marmalade, jams, and pastes, a kind ofsoft compounds made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable substances, beat up with sugar or honey; such as oranges, apricots, pears, &c. 4. Jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with sugar to a pretty thickconsistency, so as, upon cooling, to form a trembling jelly; as currant, gooseberry, apple jelly, &c. 5. Conserves are a kind of dry confects, made by beating up flowers, fruits, &c. , with sugar, not dissolved. 6. Candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been boiled inthe syrup. 

DESSERT DISHES. 

1509. With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold thesame relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients, --theRomans more especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds ofdifferent kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes, as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which theguests were satiated. However, as late as the reigns of our two lastGeorges, fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts. Thedessert certainly repays, in its general effect, the expenditure upon itof much pains; and it may be said, that if there be any poetry at all inmeals, or the process of feeding, there is poetry in the dessert, thematerials for which should be selected with taste, and, of course, mustdepend, in a great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes, peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c. , all kinds of dried fruits, and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes andbiscuits, make up the dessert, together with the most costly and_recherché_ wines. The shape of the dishes varies at different periods, the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes onstems. The patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion;some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern and colour; others, elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The beauty ofthe dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance thesplendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert on table, now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down themiddle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately; the fresh fruitsbeing arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c. , onsmall round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especialattention, as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits withnicely-arranged foliage is very charming. The garnish _par excellence_for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops producing amarvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting senseof coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect; and for winterdesserts, the bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, theexpense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paperand composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price. Mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish. This mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of thefruit: for instance, a pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded withlarge plums of various sorts and colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheekedapples, all arranged with a due regard to colour, have a very goodeffect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes, hanging from the border of the dish in a _négligé_ sort of manner, witha large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples. Adessert would not now be considered complete without candied andpreserved fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased ata less cost than they can be manufactured at home. They are preservedabroad in most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from thefacilities of travel, we have become so familiar with the tables of theFrench, chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts. 

ICES. 

510. Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary to say, of congealedcream or water, combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouringingredients, or more generally with the juices of fruits. At desserts, or at some evening parties, ices are scarcely to be dispensed with. Theprincipal utensils required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs, freezing-pots, spaddles, and a cellaret. The tub must be large enough tocontain about a bushel of ice, pounded small, when brought out of theice-house, and mixed very carefully with either _salt, nitre, _ or_soda. _ The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. If it be of tin, as issometimes the case, the congelation goes on too rapidly in it for thethorough intermingling of its contents, on which the excellence of theice greatly depends. The spaddle is generally made of copper, keptbright and clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in which ices are keptfor a short time from dissolving. The method to be pursued in thefreezing process must be attended to. When the ice-tub is prepared withfresh-pounded ice and salt, the freezing-pot is put into it up to itscover. The articles to be congealed are then poured into it and coveredover; but to prevent the ingredients from separating and the heaviest ofthem from falling to the bottom of the mould, it is requisite to turnthe freezing-pot round and round by the handle, so as to keep itscontents moving until the congelation commences. As soon as this isperceived (the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for thepurpose of noticing when freezing takes place), the cover is immediatelyclosed over it, ice is put upon it, and it is left in this state till itis served. The use of the spaddle is to stir up and remove from thesides of the freezing pot the cream, which in the shaking may havewashed against it, and by stirring it in with the rest, to prevent wasteof it occurring. Any negligence in stirring the contents of thefreezing-pot before congelation takes place, will destroy the whole:either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficientlysweetened, or lumps are formed, which disfigure and discolour it. 

1511. The aged, the delicate, and children should abstain from ices oriced beverages; even the strong and healthy should partake of them inmoderation. They should be taken immediately after the repast, or somehours after, because the taking these substances _during_ the process ofdigestion is apt to provoke indisposition. It is necessary, then, thatthis function should have scarcely commenced, or that it should becompletely finished, before partaking of ices. It is also necessary toabstain from them when persons are very warm, or immediately aftertaking violent exercise, as in some cases they have produced illnesseswhich have ended fatally. 

[Do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices, which all the fair sex are passionately fond of?--To Catherine de'Medici. Will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by theinstigator of St. Bartholomew ?]

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

TO MAKE SYRUP FOR COMPOTES, &c. 

1512. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1-1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, carefullyremoving the scum as it rises: the syrup is then ready for the fruit. The articles boiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time, it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately. Alarger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR OR SYRUP. 

1513. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water and1/2 the white of an egg. 

_Mode_. --Put the sugar, water, and the white of the egg, which should, be well beaten, into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan; and do not putit on the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Then place it on the fire, and when it boils, throw in a teacupful of cold water, and do not stirthe sugar after this is added. Bring it to the boiling-point again, andthen place the pan by the side of the fire, for the preparation tosettle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready for use. Thescum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from it may beboiled up again: this must also be well skimmed. 

_Time_. --20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve; 5 minutes to boil. 

_Note_. --The above two recipes are those used in the preparation ofdishes usually made at home. There are many degrees of boiling sugar, which process requires great care, attention, and experience. Caramelsugar, which makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats, is difficult toprepare, and is best left to an experienced confectioner. We give therecipe, for those of our readers who care to attempt the operation. 

TO BOIL SUGAR TO CARAMEL. 

1514. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of lump sugar allow 1 gill of springwater. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a clearfire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep it boilinguntil the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of coldwater. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree; thensqueeze in a little lemon-juice, and let it remain an instant on thefire. Set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is thenready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamentedwith this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in finethreads or network. A dish of light pastry, tastefully arranged, looksvery prettily with this sugar spun lightly over it. The sugar must becarefully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless the cookis very experienced and thoroughly understands her business, it isscarcely worth while to attempt to make this elaborate ornament, as itmay be purchased quite as economically at a confectioner's, if thefailures in the preparation are taken into consideration. 

COMPOTE OF APPLES. 

_(Soyer's Recipe, --a Dessert Dish. )_

1515. INGREDIENTS. --6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. Of lump sugar, 1/2pint of water. 

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF APPLES. ]

_Mode_. --Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them, cut them inhalves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with a little lemon. Put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan, and let themboil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay in the apples with therind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice of the same. Let the applessimmer till tender; then take them out very carefully, drain them on asieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes. When both are cold, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour overthe syrup, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron. Smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner: they should not bedivided in half, but peeled and the cores pushed out with avegetable-cutter. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together; from 15 to 25minutes to simmer the apples. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March. 

APPLE GINGER. 

(_A Dessert Dish_. )

1516 INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of any kind of hard apples, 2 lbs. Of loafsugar, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 oz. Of tincture of ginger. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup, addingthe ginger when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut the apples into pieces;dip them in cold water to preserve the colour, and boil them in thesyrup until transparent; but be careful not to let them break. Put thepieces of apple into jars, pour over the syrup, and carefully excludethe air, by well covering them. It will remain good some time, if keptin a dry place. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 10 minutes to boil the syrup; about 1/2 hour tosimmer the apples. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September, October, or November. 

APPLE JAM. 

1517. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit weighed after being pared, cored, and sliced, allow 3/4 lb. Of preserving-sugar, the grated rind of1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Peel the apples, core and slice them very thin, and beparticular that they are all the same sort. Put them into a jar, standthis in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until quitetender. Previously to putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it, toascertain the proportion of sugar that may be required. Put the applesinto a preserving-pan, crush the sugar to small lumps, and add it, withthe grated lemon-rind and juice, to the apples. Simmer these over thefire for 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmerproperly; remove the scum as it rises, and when the jam is done, put itinto pots for use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and toexclude the air, cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white ofan egg, and stretched over the top. This jam will keep good for a longtime. 

_Time_. --About 2 hours to stew in the jar; 1/2 hour to boil after thejam begins to simmer. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 6s. 

_Sufficient. _--7 or 8 lbs. Of apples for 6 pots of jam. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September, October, or November. 

APPLE JELLY. 

I. 

1518. INGREDIENTS. --To 6 lbs. Of apples allow 3 pints of water; to everyquart of juice allow 2 lbs. Of loaf sugar;--the juice of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and put them into ajar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven, withthe jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and theapples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To every quartof juice allow 2 lbs. Of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to smalllumps, and put into a preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these togetherfor rather more than 1/2 hour, remove the scum as it rises, add thelemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots for use. This preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and may beturned out for dessert. 

_Time_. --The apples to be put in the oven over-night, and left tillmorning; rather more than 1/2 hour to boil the jelly. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly. 

_Seasonable_, --This should be made in September, October, or November. 

II. 

1519. INGREDIENTS. --Apples, water: to every pint of syrup allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pare and cut the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and putthem in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Letthem boil for an hour; then drain the syrup from them through a hairsieve or jelly-bag, and measure the juice; to every pint allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, and boil these together for 3/4 hour, removing everyparticle of scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly well stirred, thatit may not burn. A little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples, anda small quantity of strained lemon-juice may be put in the jelly justbefore it is done, when the flavour is liked. This jelly may beornamented with preserved greengages, or any other preserved fruit, andwill turn out very prettily for dessert. It should be stored away insmall pots. 

_Time_. --1 hour to boil the fruit and water; 3/4 hour to boil the juicewith the sugar. 

_Average cost_, for 6 lbs. Of apples, with the other ingredients inproportion, 3s. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 small pots of jelly. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September, October, or November. 

TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, in imitation of Ginger. 

1520. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of apples allow 3/4 lb. Of sugar, 1-1/2oz. Of the best white ginger; 1 oz. Of ginger to every 1/2 pint ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar, and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain for 2days; then infuse 1 oz. Of ginger in 1/2 pint of boiling water, andcover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity of gingerand water is for 3 lbs. Of apples, with the other ingredients inproportion. Put the apples, &c. , into a preserving-pan with the waterstrained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and thesyrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon maybe added just before the apples have finished boiling; and great caremust be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into thejars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert. 

_Time_. --2 days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c. ; 1day to infuse the ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples. 

_Average cost_, for 3 lbs. Of apples, with the other ingredients inproportion, 2s. 3d. 

_Sufficient. _--3 lbs. Should fill 3 moderate-sized jars. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made in September, October, or November. 

COMPOTE OF APRICOTS. 

(_An elegant Dish_. )

1521. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots. 

_Mode_. --Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it is ready, put inthe apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very gently untiltender, taking care not to let them break; take them out carefully, arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it overthe apricots, and, when cold, serve. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June and July, with green apricots. 

APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE. 

1522. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of ripe apricots, weighed after beingskinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, break them in half, and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and to everylb. Allow the same proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very finelyin a mortar, strew it over the apricots, which should be placed ondishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. Break the stones, blanch thekernels, and put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan. Let these simmer very gently until clear; take out the pieces of apricotsingly as they become so, and, as fast as the scum rises, carefullyremove it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour over them the syrupand kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purestsalad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-paper, cut about2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg: when dry, itwill be perfectly hard and air-tight. 

_Time_. --12 hours sprinkled with sugar; about 3/4 hour to boil the jam. 

_Average cost_. --When cheap, apricots may be purchased for preserving atabout 1s. 6d. Per gallon. 

_Sufficient_, --10 lbs. Of fruit for 12 pots of jam. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in August or September. 

BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES. 

1523. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries. 

_Mode_. --Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches longand 1/4 inch wide, and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches. Haveready some clear syrup, made by recipe No. 1513; put in the barberries, and simmer them in it for 2 successive days, boiling them for nearly 1/2hour each day, and covering them each time with the syrup when cold. When the fruit looks perfectly clear, it is sufficiently done, andshould be stored away in pots, with the syrup poured over, or the fruitmay be candied. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to simmer each day. 

_Seasonable_ in autumn. 

_Note_. --The berries in their natural state make a very prettygarnishing for dishes, and may even be used for the same purpose, preserved as above, and look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes. 

TO MAKE BARLEY-SUGAR. 

1524. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2the white of an egg. 

_Mode_. --Put the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan, with the water, and, when the former is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire, adding thewell-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm, and stir it well together. When it boils, remove the scum as it rises, and keep it boiling until nomore appears, and the syrup looks perfectly clear; then strain itthrough a fine sieve or muslin bag, and put it back into the saucepan. Boil it again like caramel, until it is brittle, when a little isdropped in a basin of cold water: it is then sufficiently boiled. Add alittle lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon, and let it standfor a minute or two. Have ready a marble slab or large dish, rubbed overwith salad-oil; pour on it the sugar, and cut it into strips with a pairof scissors: these strips should then be twisted, and the barley-sugarstored away in a very dry place. It may be formed into lozenges ordrops, by dropping the sugar in a very small quantity at a time on tothe oiled slab or dish. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 sticks. 

CARROT JAM TO IMITATE APRICOT PRESERVE. 

1525. INGREDIENTS. --Carrots; to every lb. Of carrot pulp allow 1 lb. Ofpounded sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice of 2, 6chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Select young carrots; wash and scrape them clean, cut them intoround pieces, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to coverthem, and let them simmer until perfectly soft; then beat them through asieve. Weigh the pulp, and to every lb. Allow the above ingredients. Putthe pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and let this boil for 5minutes, stirring and skimming all the time. When cold, add thelemon-rind and juice, almonds and brandy; mix these well with the jam;then put it into pots, which must be well covered and kept in a dryplace. The brandy may be omitted, but the preserve will then not keep:with the brandy it will remain good for months. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to boil the carrots; 5 minutes to simmer thepulp. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. For 1 lb. Of pulp, with the other ingredients inproportion. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 3 pots. 

_Seasonable_ from July to December. 

TO MAKE CHERRY BRANDY. 

1536. INGREDIENTS. --Morella cherries, good brandy; to every lb. Ofcherries allow 3 oz. Of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Have ready some glass bottles, which must be perfectly dry. Ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered, and cut off about half of the stalks. Put them into the bottles, withthe above proportion of sugar to every lb. Of fruit; strew this inbetween the cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly full, pour insufficient brandy to reach just below the cork. A few peach or apricotkernels will add much to their flavour, or a few blanched bitteralmonds. Put corks or bungs into the bottles, tie over them a piece ofbladder, and store away in a dry place. The cherries will be fit to eatin 2 or 3 months, and will remain good for years. They are liable toshrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them. 

_Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 6d. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_. --1 lb. Of cherries and about 1/4 pint of brandy for aquart bottle. _Seasonable_ in August and September. 

DRIED CHERRIES. 

1527. CHERRIES may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried beforethey begin to change colour. They should then be taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. In the winter, they maybe cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Normandy pippins. Particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot. Anothermethod of drying cherries is to stone them, and to put them into apreserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst them. Theyshould be simmered till the fruit shrivels, when they should be strainedfrom the juice. The cherries should then be placed in an oven, coolenough to dry without baking them. About 5 oz. Of sugar would berequired for 1 lb. Of cherries, and the same syrup may be used again todo another quantity of fruit. 

CHERRY JAM. 

1528. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit, weighed before stoning, allow1/2 lb. Of sugar; to every 6 lbs. Of fruit allow 1 pint of red-currantjuice, and to every pint of juice 1 lb. Of sugar. 

_Mode_. --Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight ofsugar; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan untilnearly all the juice is dried up; then add the sugar, which should becrushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing 1 pint to every 6lbs. Of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. Of sugar to every pint ofjuice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from 20minutes to 1/2 hour; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a fewminutes before it is done, crack some of the stones, and add thekernels: these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam. 

_Time_. --According to the quality of the cherries, from 3/4 to 1 hour toboil them; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour with the sugar. 

_Average cost_, from 7d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --1 pint of fruit for a lb. Pot of jam. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July or August. 

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES IN SYRUP. 

(_Very delicious_. )

1529. INGREDIENTS. --4 lbs. Of cherries, 3 lbs. Of sugar, 1 pint ofwhite-currant juice. 

_Mode_. --Let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible, and perfectly ripe; pick off the stalks, and remove the stones, damagingthe fruit as little as you can. Make a syrup with the above proportionof sugar, by recipe No. 1512; mix the cherries with it, and boil themfor about 15 minutes, carefully skimming them; turn them gently into apan, and let them remain till the next day; then drain the cherries on asieve, and put the syrup and white-currant juice into the preserving-panagain. Boil these together until the syrup is somewhat reduced andrather thick; then put in the cherries, and let them boil for about 5minutes; take them off the fire, skim the syrup, put the cherries intosmall pots or wide-mouthed bottles; pour the syrup over, and when quitecold, tie them down carefully, so that the air is quite excluded. 

_Time_. --15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup; 10 minutes toboil the syrup and currant-juice; 6 minutes to boil the cherries thesecond time. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July or August. 

BLACK-CURRANT JAM. 

1530. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit, weighed before being strippedfrom the stalks, allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be very ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip itfrom the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, with a gill of waterto each lb. Of fruit; boil these together for 10 minutes; then add thesugar, and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning from the timewhen the jam simmers equally all over, or longer, should it not appearto set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate. Keep stirring it toprevent it from burning, carefully remove all the scum, and when done, pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiledpaper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed overon both sides with the white of an egg: this, when cold, forms a hardstiff cover, and perfectly excludes the air. Great attention must bepaid to the stirring of this jam, as it is very liable to burn, onaccount of the thickness of the juice. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the fruit and water; 30 minutes with thesugar, or longer. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. For a pot capable of holding 1 lb. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 1 dozen potsof jam, each pot to hold 1 lb. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July. 

BLACK-CURRANT JELLY. 

1531. INGREDIENTS. --Black currants; to every pint of juice allow 1/4pint of water, 1 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Strip the currants from the stalks, which may be done in anexpeditious manner, by holding the bunch in one hand, and passing asmall silver fork down the currants: they will then readily fall fromthe stalks. Put them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan of boilingwater, and simmer them until their juice is extracted; then strain them, and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of sugar andwater; stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar isdissolved; place the preserving-pan on the fire, and boil the jelly forabout 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time it commences to boil all over, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. If the jelly becomes firmwhen a little is put on a plate, it is done; it should then be put into_small_ pots, and covered the same as the jam in the preceding recipe. If the jelly is wanted very clear, the fruit should not be squeezed dry;but, of course, so much juice will not be obtained. If the fruit is notmuch squeezed, it may be converted into a jam for immediate eating, byboiling it with a little common sugar: this answers very well for anursery preserve. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to extract the juice; 1/2 hour to boil thejelly. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per 1/2-lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield a pint ofjuice. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July. 

RED-CURRANT JAM. 

1532. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

[Illustration: JAM-POT. ]

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day; weigh it, and thenstrip the currants from the stalks; put them into a preserving-pan withsugar in the above proportion; stir them, and boil them for about 3/4hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Put the jam into pots, and, when cold, cover with oiled papers; over these put a piece oftissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg; pressthe paper round the top of the pot, and, when dry, the covering will bequite hard and air-tight. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam boils allover. 

_Average cost_, for a lb. Pot, from 6d. To 8d. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb, pots of jam. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July. 

RED-CURRANT JELLY. 

1533. INGREDIENTS. --Red currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Have the fruit gathered in fine weather; pick it from thestalks, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boilingwater over the fire, and let it simmer gently until the juice is welldrawn from the currants; then strain them through a jelly-bag or finecloth, and, if the jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze them _toomuch_, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through withthe juice, and so make the jelly muddy. Measure the juice, and to eachpint allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar; put these into a preserving-pan, setit over the fire, and keep stirring the jelly until it is done, carefully removing every particle of scum as it rises, using a wooden orsilver spoon for the purpose, as metal or iron ones would spoil thecolour of the jelly when it has boiled from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, puta little of the jelly on a plate, and if firm when cool, it is done. Take it off the fire, pour it into small gallipots, cover each of thepots with an oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushedover on both sides with the white of an egg. Label the pots, adding theyear when the jelly was made, and store it away in a dry place. A jammay be made with the currants, if they are not squeezed too dry, byadding a few fresh raspberries, and boiling all together, withsufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. As this preserve is not worthstoring away, but is only for immediate eating, a smaller proportion ofsugar than usual will be found enough: it answers very well forchildren's puddings, or for a nursery preserve. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour to extract the juice; 20 minutes to 1/2 hourto boil the jelly. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per 1/2-lb. Pot. _Sufficient_. --8quarts of currants will make from 10 to 12 pots of jelly. _Seasonable_. --Make this in July. _Note_. --Should the above proportionof sugar not be found sufficient for some tastes, add an extra 1/4 lb. To every pint of juice, making altogether 1 lb. 

WHITE-CURRANT JELLY. 

1534. INGREDIENTS. --White currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. Of good loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pick the currants from the stalks, and put them into a jar;place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until thejuice is well drawn from the fruit, which will be in from 3/4 to 1 hour. Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag; do notsqueeze them too much, or the jelly will not be clear, and put the juiceinto a very clean preserving-pan, with the sugar. Let this simmer gentlyover a clear fire until it is firm, and keep stirring and skimming untilit is done; then pour it into small pots, cover them, and store away ina dry place. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to draw the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the jelly. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per 1/2-lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient. _--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint ofjuice. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August. 

BAKED DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE. 

1535. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 6 oz. Of pounded sugar;melted mutton suet. 

_Mode_. --Choose sound fruit, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weighit, and to every lb. Allow the above proportion of pounded sugar. Putthe fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it;cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bakethe fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of thefruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour overthis melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops of thejars with thick brown paper, well tied down. Keep the jars in a cool dryplace, and the fruit will remain good till the following Christmas, butnot much longer. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons, in a very cool oven. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October. 

DAMSON CHEESE. 

1536. INGREDIENTS. --Damsons; to every lb. Of fruit pulp allow 1/2 lb. Ofloaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into apreserving-pan; simmer them over the fire until they are soft, occasionally stirring them; then beat them through a coarse sieve, andput the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the aboveproportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir the sugarwell in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours. Skim well; then boilthe preserve quickly for 1/2 hour, or until it looks firm and hard inthe spoon; put it quickly into shallow pots, or very tiny earthenwaremoulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the jars withtissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. A fewof the stones may be cracked, and the kernels boiled with the damsons, which very much improves the flavour of the cheese. 

_Time_. --1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to simmerthem slowly, 1/2 hour quickly. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per 1/3 lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --1 pint of damsons to make a _very small_ pot of cheese. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September or October. 

COMPOTE OF DAMSONS. 

1537. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup No. 1512. 

_Mode_. --Procure sound ripe damsons; pick the stalks from them, and putthem into boiling syrup, made by recipe No. 1512. Simmer them gentlyuntil the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to break; take themup, boil the syrup for 5 minutes; pour it over the damsons, and serve. This should be sent to table in a glass dish. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil thesyrup. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in September and October. 

DAMSON JAM. 

1538. INGREDIENTS. --Damsons; to every lb. Of fruit allow 3/4 lb. Of loafsugar. 

_Mode_. --Have the fruit gathered in dry weather; pick it over, andreject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them, andto every lb. Allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into apreserving-pan; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for about anhour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike: itmust be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn andstick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeableflavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears to set, it isdone. Then take it off the fire, put into pots, cover it down, whenquite cold, with oiled and egged papers, the same as in recipe No. 1530, and store it away in a dry place. 

_Time_. --1 hour after the jam simmers all over. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --1-1/2 pint of damsons for a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September or October. 

A VERY NICE PRESERVE OF DAMSONS. 

1539. INGREDIENTS. --To every quart of damsons allow 1/2 lb. Of loafsugar. 

_Mode_. --Put the damsons (which should be picked from the stalks andquite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar sprinkledamongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar closely down, set itin a saucepan of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, and simmergently until the damsons are soft, without being broken. Let them standtill cold; then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, strain itthrough a jelly-bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover withoiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sideswith the white of an egg, and store away in a dry cool place. 

_Time_. --About 3/4 hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils; 1/4hour to boil the juice. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September or October. 

TO PRESERVE DAMSONS, OR ANY KIND OF PLUMS. 

(_Useful in Winter_. )

1540. INGREDIENTS. --Damsons or plums; boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leaveout all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiling water onthe plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit; cut a piece ofpaper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet;cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place. Whenused, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and the jelly atthe bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October. 

COMPOTE OF GREEN FIGS. 

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF FIGS. ]

1541. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1-1/2 pint of green figs, the rind of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, boiling with it thelemon-rind, and carefully remove all the scum as it rises. Put in thefigs, and simmer them very slowly until tender; dish them on a glassdish; reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for 5 minutes; take out thelemon-peel, pour the syrup over the figs, and the compote, when cold, will be ready for table. A little port wine, or lemon-juice, added justbefore the figs are done, will be found an improvement. 

_Time_. --2 to 3 hours to stew the figs. 

_Average cost_, figs, 2s. To 3s. Per dozen. 

_Seasonable_ in August and September. 

TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT. 

(_Very useful in Winter_. )

I. 

1542. INGREDIENTS. --Fresh fruits, such as currants, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, plums of all kinds, damsons, &c. ; wide-mouthedglass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, and gathered indry weather. Pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking theskin, and reject any that is at all blemished: if gathered in the damp, or if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will mould. Have ready some_perfectly dry_ glass bottles, and some nice new soft corks or bungs;burn a match in each bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly place thefruit in to be preserved; gently cork the bottles, and put them into avery cool oven, where let them remain until the fruit has shrunk away afourth part. Then take the bottles out; _do not open them, _ butimmediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and cover themwith melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the fruit will remain goodfor months; and on this principally depends the success of thepreparation; for if stored away in a place that is in the least damp, the fruit will soon spoil. 

_Time_. --From 5 to 6 hours in a very slow oven. 

II. 

1543. INGREDIENTS. --Any kind of fresh fruit, such as currants, cherries, gooseberries, all kinds of plums, &c. ; wide-mouthed glass bottles, newcorks to fit them tightly. 

_Mode_. --The fruit must be full-grown, not too ripe, and gathered on afine day. Let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles, whichmust be clean and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of the bottles piecesof bladder; stand the bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler, withcold water to reach to their necks; kindle a fire under, let the waterboil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, prick them. As soon asthe water boils, extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain wherethey are, to become cold. The next day remove the bladders, and strewover the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar; fit the bottles withcorks, and let each cork lie close at hand to its own bottle. Hold for afew moments, in the neck of the bottle, two or three lighted matches, and when they have filled the bottle neck with gas, and before they goout, remove them very quickly; instantly cork the bottle closely, anddip it in bottle cement. 

_Time_. --Altogether about 8 hours. 

TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT WITH SUGAR. 

(_Very useful in Winter_. )

1544. INGREDIENTS. --Any kind of fresh fruit; to each quart bottle allow1/4 lb. Of pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather. Pick it carefully, and drop it into _clean_ and _very dry_ quart glass bottles, sprinklingover it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart. Put thecorks in the bottles, and place them in a copper of cold water up totheir necks, with small hay-wisps round them, to prevent the bottlesfrom knocking together. Light the fire under, bring the water graduallyto boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles isreduced nearly one third. Extinguish the fire, _and let the bottlesremain in the water until it is perfectly cold;_ then take them out, make the corks secure, and cover them with melted resin or wax. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour from the time the water commences to boil. 

TO FROST HOLLY-LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating Dessert and SupperDishes. 

1545. --INGREDIENTS. --Sprigs of holly, oiled butter, coarsely-powderedsugar. 

_Mode_. --Procure some nice sprigs of holly; pick the leaves from thestalks, and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture; thenplace them on a dish near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but not toonear to shrivel the leaves; dip them into oiled butter, sprinkle overthem some coarsely-powdered sugar, and dry them before the fire. Theyshould be kept in a dry place, as the least damp would spoil theirappearance. 

_Time_. --About 10 minutes to dry before the fire. 

_Seasonable_. --These may be made at any time; but are more suitable forwinter garnishes, when fresh flowers are not easily obtained. 

COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES. 

1546. INGREDIENTS. --Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; to 1 pint of syrupallow nearly a quart of gooseberries. 

_Mode_. --Top and tail the gooseberries, which should not be very ripe, and pour over them some boiling water; then take them out, and plungethem into cold water, with which has been mixed a tablespoonful ofvinegar, which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour. Make a pintof syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it boils, drain the gooseberriesand put them in; simmer them gently until the fruit is nicely pulped andtender, without being broken; then dish the gooseberries on a glassdish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over the gooseberries, andserve cold. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup; 3minutes to reduce the syrup. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_, --a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

I. 

1547. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar;currant-juice. 

_Mode_. --Select red hairy gooseberries; have them gathered in dryweather, when quite ripe, without being too soft. Weigh them; with apair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. Offruit have ready 1/2 pint of red-currant juice, drawn as for jelly. Putthe gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan; let them boiltolerably quickly, keeping them well stirred; when they begin to break, add to them the sugar, and keep simmering until the jam becomes firm, carefully skimming: and stirring it, that it does not burn at thebottom. It should be boiled rather a long time, or it will not keep. Putit into pots (not too large); let it get perfectly cold; then cover thepots down with oiled and egged papers, as directed for red-currant jellyNo. 1533. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice;from 1/2 to 3/4 hour with the sugar. 

_Average cost_, per lb. Pot, from 6d. To 8d. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in June or July. 

II. 

1548. INGREDIENTS. --To every 8 lbs. Of red, rough, ripe gooseberriesallow 1 quart of red-currant juice, 5 lbs. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, and cut off the topsand tails. Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the same as forred-currant jelly No. 1533; put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved. Keep it boiling forabout 5 minutes; skim well; then put in the gooseberries, and let themboil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; then turn the whole into an earthen pan, andlet it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam up again until it looks clear;put it into pots, and when cold, cover with oiled paper, and over thejars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of anegg, and store away in a dry place. Care must be taken, in making this, to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed, to prevent it burning atthe bottom of the pan, and to have it very clear. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil the currant-juice and sugar after the latteris dissolved; from 1/2 to 3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries the firsttime, 1/4 hour the second time of boiling. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in June or July. 

WHITE OR GREEN GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

1549. INGREDIENTS. --Equal weight of fruit and sugar. 

_Mode_. --Select the gooseberries not very ripe, either white or green, and top and tail them. Boil the sugar with water (allowing 1/2 pint toevery lb. ) for about 1/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises;then put in the gooseberries, and simmer gently till clear and firm: trya little of the jam on a plate; if it jellies when cold, it is done, andshould then be poured into pots. When cold, cover with oiled paper, andtissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten white of anegg, and store away in a dry place. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to boil the sugar and water, 3/4 hour the jam. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in June. 

GOOSEBERRY JELLY. 

1550. INGREDIENTS. --Gooseberries; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Put the gooseberries, after cutting off the tops and tails, into a preserving-pan, and stir them over the fire until they are quitesoft; then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice allow3/4 lb. Of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly 3/4 hour, stirring and skimming all the time; and if the jelly appears firm when alittle of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, and should then betaken up and put into small pots. Cover the pots with oiled and eggedpapers, the same as for currant jelly No. 1533, and store away in a dryplace. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar; 3/4 hourto boil the juice. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per 1/2-lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ in July. 

COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES. 

1551. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1512, 1 quart ofgreengages. 

_Mode_. --Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, skim it well, and put in thegreengages when the syrup is boiling, having previously removed thestalks and stones from the fruit. Boil gently for 1/4 hour, or until thefruit is tender; but take care not to let it break, as the appearance ofthe dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp. Take thegreengages carefully out, place them on a glass dish, boil the syrup foranother 5 minutes, let it cool a little, pour over the fruit, and, whencold, it will be ready for use. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes the syrup. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September. 

GREENGAGE JAM. 

1552. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit, weighed before being stoned, allow 3/4 lb. Of lump sugar. 

_Mode_. --Divide the greengages, take out the stones, and put them into apreserving-pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar, and keepstirring it over a gentle fire until it is melted. Remove all the scumas it rises, and, just before the jam is done, boil it rapidly for 5minutes. To ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little on aplate, and if the syrup thickens and appears firm, it is done. Haveready half the kernels blanched; put them into the jam, give them oneboil, and pour the preserve into pots. When cold, cover down with oiledpapers, and, over these, tissue-paper brushed over on both sides withthe white of an egg. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour after the sugar is added. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient. _--Allow about 1-1/2 pint of fruit for every lb. Pot of jam. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in August or September. 

TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES. 

1553. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1 lb. Of fruit, 1/4 pintof water. 

_Mode_. --For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quiteripe, and part of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejectingall that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a linedsaucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been previouslyboiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes, remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. The next day, boil upthe syrup and put in the fruit again, and let it simmer for 3 minutes, and drain the syrup away. Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, and thelast time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair sieve, and putthem in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paperbetween each layer, in a place free from damp. 

_Time_. --10 minutes the first time of boiling. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in August or September. 

PRESERVED GREENGAGES IN SYRUP. 

1554. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 1 lb. Of loaf sugar 1/4pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes; dividethe greengages, take out the stones, put the fruit into the syrup, andlet it simmer gently until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, put itinto a large pan, and, the next day, boil it up again for about 10minutes with the kernels from the stones, which should be blanched. Putthe fruit carefully into jars, pour over it the syrup, and, when cold, cover down, so that the air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be wellskimmed both the first and second day of boiling, otherwise it will notbe clear. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the syrup; 1/4 hour to simmer the fruit thefirst day, 10 minutes the second day. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient. _--Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in August or September. 

TO MAKE FRUIT ICE-CREAMS. 

1555. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of cream;sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it off the stalks, and putit into a large earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breakingit until it is well mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub itthrough a hair sieve. Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar; whip thecream for a few minutes, add it to the fruit, and whisk the whole againfor another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing-pot, and freezein the same manner as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, taking care tostir the cream, &c. , two or three times, and to remove it from the sidesof the vessel, that the mixture may be equally frozen and smooth. Icesare usually served in glasses, but if moulded, as they sometimes are fordessert, must have a small quantity of melted isinglass added to them, to enable them to keep their shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, andall fruit ice-creams, are made in the same manner. A little poundedsugar sprinkled over the fruit before it is mashed assists to extractthe juice. In winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jammay be substituted for it: it should be melted and worked through asieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if the colour shouldnot be good, a little prepared cochineal or beetroot may be put in toimprove its appearance. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 4d. Each ice. 

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August. 

TO MAKE FRUIT-WATER ICES. 

1556. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of syrupmade by recipe No. 1513. 

[Illustration: DISH OF ICES. ]

_Mode_. --Select nice ripe fruit; pick off the stalks, and put it into alarge earthen pan, with a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir itabout with a wooden spoon until it is well broken, then rub it through ahair sieve. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of theegg; let it cool, add the fruit-juice, mix well together, and put themixture into the freezing-pot. Proceed as directed for Ice Puddings, No. 1290, and when the mixture is equally frozen, put it into small glasses. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and other fresh-fruit-water ices, aremade in the same manner. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. 

_Average cost_, 3d. To 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August. 

LEMON-WATER ICE. 

1557. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of syrup, made by recipe No. 1513, allow 1/3 pint of lemon-juice; the rind of 4 lemons. 

_Mode_. --Rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons, and with it make thesyrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of egg. Strain thelemon-juice, add it to the other ingredients, stir well, and put themixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, and, when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, put itinto ice-glasses. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. _Average cost_, 3d. To 4d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

ICED CURRANTS, for Dessert. 

1558. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants, pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Select very fine bunches of red or white currants, and wellbeat the whites of the eggs. Mix these with the water; then take thecurrants, a bunch at a time, and dip them in; let them drain for aminute or two, and roll them in very fine pounded sugar. Lay them to dryon paper, when the sugar will crystallize round each currant, and have avery pretty effect. All fresh fruit may be prepared in the same manner;and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner, and arranged on onedish, looks very well for a summer dessert. 

_Time_. --1/4 day to dry the fruit. 

_Average cost_, 8d. For a pint of iced currants. _Seasonable_ in summer. 

MELONS. 

1559. --This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, and shouldbe sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancydictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round themelon, has a pretty effect, the colour the former contrasting nicelywith the melon. Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; andthe fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices. InAmerica, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt. 

_Average cost_, --English, in full season, 3s. 6d. To 5s. Each; whenscarce, 10s. To 15s. ; _seasonable_, June to August. French, 2s. To 3s. 6d. Each; _seasonable_, June and July. Dutch, 9d. To 2s. Each;_seasonable_, July and August. 

 MELON. --The melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool, and high-flavoured. With us, it is used only at the dessert, and is generally eaten with sugar, ginger, or pepper; but, in France, it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats. It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in abundance on the sandy plains of Jeypoor. It was brought originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been common in England in the time of Edward III. , though it is supposed that it was lost again, as well as the cucumber, during the wars of York and Lancaster. The best kind, called the _Cantaloupe_, from the name of a place near Rome where it was first cultivated in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a crown. 

PRESERVED MULBERRIES. 

1560. INGREDIENTS. --To 2 lbs. Of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow 2-1/2lbs. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer itgently until the juice is well drawn. Strain it through a bag, measureit, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit. Putthe sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the juice, boil itup, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe, butnot soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in the syrup tillwarm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently; when half done, turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them remain till thenext day; then boil them as before, and when the syrup is thick, andbecomes firm when cold, put the preserve into pots. In making this, careshould be taken not to break the mulberries: this may be avoided by verygentle stirring, and by simmering the fruit very slowly. 

_Time_. --3/4 hour to extract the juice;

1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the secondtime. 

_Seasonable_ in August and September. 

[Illustration: MULBERRY. ]

MULBERRY. --Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour, and their sub-acid nature. They are considered as cooling, laxative, andgenerally wholesome. This fruit was very highly esteemed by the Romans, who appear to have preferred it to every other. The mulberry-tree isstated to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being firstplanted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive. Theplanting of them was much encouraged by King James I. About 1605; andconsiderable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on alarge scale for the purpose of making silk; but these endeavours havealways failed, the climate being scarcely warm enough. 

TO PRESERVE MORELLO CHERRIES. 

1561. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of cherries allow 1-1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1gill of water. 

_Mode_. --Select ripe cherries; pick off the stalks, and reject all thathave any blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; putin the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum as itrises. Then turn the fruit, &c. Into a pan, and let it remain until thenext day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and, ifnecessary, skim well. Put the cherries into small pots; pour over themthe syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers, and the tops ofthe jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white ofan egg, and keep in a dry place. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 25 minutes to boil. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July or August. 

THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME. --The Cherry-tree was introduced into Rome byLucullus about seventy years before the Christian era; but the capitalof the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as itdeserved; for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in Italy, thatmore than a century after its introduction it was far from beinggenerally cultivated. The Romans distinguished three principal speciesof cherries--the _Apronian_, of a bright red, with a firm and delicatepulp; the _Lutatian_, very black and sweet; the _Caecilian_, round andstubby, and much esteemed. The cherry embellished the third course inRome and the second at Athens. 

PRESERVED NECTARINES. 

1562. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water;nectarines. 

_Mode_. --Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make astrong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in thenectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar. Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan. The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines, put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it overthe fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The syrup andpreserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil thefruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil thesyrup. 

_Seasonable_ in August and September, but cheapest in September. 

STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS. 

1563. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1lb. Of moist sugar, 1 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water withthe above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand 12hours; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon slicedthinly, and half the moist sugar. Let them boil slowly until the pippinsare half done; then add the remainder of the sugar, and simmer untilthey are quite tender. Serve on glass dishes for dessert. 

_Time_. --2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. _Seasonable_. --Suitablefor a winter dish. 

ICED ORANGES. 

1564. INGREDIENTS. --Oranges; to every lb. Of pounded loaf sugar allowthe whites of 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beatthis mixture for 1/4 hour. Skin the oranges, remove as much of the whitepith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit; pass a threadthrough the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar, and tie themto a stick. Place this stick across the oven, and let the oranges remainuntil dry, when they will have the appearance of balls of ice. They makea pretty dessert or supper dish. Care must be taken not to have the oventoo fierce, or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour, which would entirely spoil their appearance. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_. --1/2 lb. Of sugar to ice 12 oranges. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE. --The first Orange-tree cultivated inthe centre of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau. Itwas called _Le Connétable_ (the Constable), because it had belonged tothe Connétable de Bourbon, and had been confiscated, together with allproperty belonging to that prince, after his revolt against hissovereign. 

COMPOTE OF ORANGES. 

1565. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges. _Mode_. --Peelthe oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and dividethem into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which theyare surrounded. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding the rind ofthe orange cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup has been wellskimmed, and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange, and simmerthem for 5 minutes. Take them out carefully with a spoon withoutbreaking them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup byboiling it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, pour it over theoranges, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. 

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF ORANGES. ]

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges;5 minutes to reduce the syrup. 

_Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL. --The Orange known under the name of "PortugalOrange" comes originally from China. Not more than two centuries ago, the Portuguese brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied soprodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal. 

ORANGE AND CLOVES. --It appears to have been the custom formerly, inEngland, to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full withcloves. We read in one of Ben Jonson's pieces, --the "ChristmasMasque, "--"He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick init. "

ORANGE MARMALADE. 

I. 

1566. INGREDIENTS. --Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville oranges;to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges, and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges. Peelthem carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and boil the rinds inwater 2 hours, changing the water three times to take off a little ofthe bitter taste. Break the pulp into small pieces, take out all thepips, and cut the boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup with the sugarand water; boil this well, skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp andchips. Boil all together from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; pour it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over onboth sides with the white of an egg. The juice and grated rind of 2lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the pulp and chips to thesyrup, are a very great improvement to this marmalade. 

_Time_. --2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; 10 minutes to boil the syrup;20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made in March or April, as Seville orangesare then in perfection. 

II. 

1567. INGREDIENTS. --Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; to everylb. Of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take itoff in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until theyare quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin;then cut them into chips about 1 inch long, and as thin as possible. Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it beforecutting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the bestpart of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips. Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until clear; then put inthe chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes to1/2 hour, removing all the scum as it rises. In boiling the syrup, clearit carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it. 

_Time_. --2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to1/2 hour the marmalade. 

_Average cost_, 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are inperfection. 

AN EASY WAY OF MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE. 

1568. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of pulp allow 1-1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Choose some fine Seville oranges; put them whole into a stewpanwith sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they becomeperfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take offthe rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and to every lb. Allow 1-1/2 of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges werelast boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; put inthe pulp, boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut intostrips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which completesthe process. Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover down withbladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white ofan egg. 

_Time_. --2 hours to boil the oranges; altogether 1/2 hour to boil themarmalade. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_--Make this in March or April. 

ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY. 

1569. INGREDIENTS. --To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville orangesallow 2 lbs. Of honey, 1 lb. Of the rind. 

_Mode_. --Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender, andcut it into strips. Take away the pips from the juice and pulp, and putit with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan; boil all together forabout 1/2 hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency; putit into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders. 

_Time_. --2 hours to boil the rind, 1/2 hour the marmalade. 

_Average cost_, from 7d. To 9d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in March or April. 

TO PRESERVE ORANGES. 

1570. INGREDIENTS. --Oranges; to every lb. Of juice and pulp allow 2 lbs. Of loaf sugar; to every pint of water 1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thinoutside portion of the rind. Make a small incision where the stalk istaken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, andpreserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it. Put theoranges into cold water; let them stand for 3 days, changing the watertwice; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender, and putthem to drain. Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar andwater, sufficient to cover the oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3days; then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp, allow double theirweight of sugar, and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise, which must all be carefully removed; put in the oranges, boil them for10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them the syrup, and, whencold, cover down. They will be fit for use in a week. 

_Time_. --3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days in the syrup;1/2 hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges. 

_Seasonable_. --This preserve should be made in February or March, whenoranges are plentiful. 

ORANGE SALAD. 

1571. INGREDIENTS. --6 oranges, 1/4 lb. Of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. Ofpounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Peel 5 of the oranges; divide them into slices without breakingthe pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish. Stone the raisins, mix themwith the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with the oranges. Squeeze thejuice of the other orange over the whole, and the dish is ready fortable. A little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked;but this ingredient must be added very sparingly. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from November to May. 

COMPOTE OF PEACHES. 

1572. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches. 

_Mode_. --Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look wellfor dessert, answer very nicely for a compôte. Divide the peaches, takeout the stones, and pare the fruit; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, putin the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. Take them outwithout breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, it willbe ready for table. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ in August and September. 

 PEACH AND NECTARINE. --The peach and nectarine, which are among the most delicious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of the same species, produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another; and even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other none; the trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally. At Montreuil, a village near Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the cultivation of peaches; and this occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they raise better peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia, peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests; but the fruit is of little value for the table, being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy. On the east side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of food. The young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, from their agreeable flavour; and a liqueur resembling the fine noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy sweetened with sugar and fined with milk: gin may also be flavoured in the same manner. The kernels of the fruit have the same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name from nectar, the particular drink of the gods. Though it is considered as the same species as the peach, it is not known which of the varieties come from the other; the nectarine, is by some considered as the superior fruit. 

PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY. 

1573. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit weighed before being stoned, allow 1/4 lb. Of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather; wipe and weigh it, and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring thepeaches much. Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded loafsugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit. Cover thejar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do not allow it toboil. Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it; put it intosmall jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the air bycovering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on bothsides with the white of an egg. Apricots may be done in the same manner, and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious. 

_Time_. --From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to thesimmering-point. 

_Seasonable_ in August and September. 

BAKED PEARS. 

1574. INGREDIENTS. --12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 wholeallspice; to every pint of water allow 1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be verylarge, into quarters; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove thecores. Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting lid; addto them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of 1/2 lemon, thecloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole, with sugar in the above proportion. Cover the jar down closely, put itinto a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be verycareful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the colour of thefruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added; but this will notbe found necessary if the pears are very gently baked. 

_Time_. --Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven. 

_Average cost_, 1d. To 2d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ from September to January. 

 PEAR. --The pear, like the apple, is indigenous to this country; but the wild pear is a very unsatisfactory fruit. The best varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who cultivated them with care, and probably introduced some of their best sorts into this island, to which others were added by the inhabitants of the monasteries. The Dutch and Flemings, as well as the French, have excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and most of the late varieties introduced are from France and Flanders. The pear is a hardy tree, and a longer liver than the apple: it has been known to exist for centuries. There are now about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly wholesome when ripe, the pear is not so when green; but in this state it is fit for stewing. An agreeable beverage, called perry, is made from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating make the best perry. 

PRESERVED PEARS. 

1575. INGREDIENTS. --Jargonelle pears; to every lb. Of sugar allow 1/2pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Procure some Jargonelle pears, not too ripe; put them into astewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them till rathertender, but do not allow them to break; then put them into cold water. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim well, put in thepears, and simmer them gently for 5 minutes. Repeat the simmering for 3successive days, taking care not to let the fruit break. The last timeof boiling, the syrup should be made rather richer, and the fruit boiledfor 10 minutes. When the pears are done, drain them from the syrup, anddry them in the sun, or in a cool oven; or they may be kept in thesyrup, and dried as they are wanted. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup. 

_Average cost_, 1d. To 2d. Each. 

_Seasonable_. --Most plentiful in September and October. 

STEWED PEARS. 

[Illustration: STEWED PEARS. ]

1576. INGREDIENTS. --8 large pears, 5 oz. Of loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6whole allspice, 1/2 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port wine, a few drops ofprepared cochineal. 

_Mode_. --Pare the pears, halve them, remove the cores, and leave thestalks on; put them into a _lined_ saucepan with the above ingredients, and let them simmer very gently until tender, which will be in from 3 to4 hours, according to the quality of the pears. They should be watched, and, when done, carefully lifted out on to a glass dish without breakingthem. Boil up the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes; allow it to cool alittle, pour it over the pears, and let them get perfectly cold. Toimprove the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal maybe added, which rather enhances the beauty of this dish. The fruit mustnot be boiled fast, but only simmered, and watched that it be not toomuch done. 

_Time_. --3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from September to January. 

 THE BON CHRETIEN PEAR. --The valuable variety of pear called _Bon Chrétien_, which comes to our tables in winter, either raw or cooked, received its name through the following incident:--Louis XI. , king of France, had sent for Saint Francois de Paule from the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear; and, as he was called at court Le Bon Chrétien, this fruit obtained the name of him to whom France owed its introduction. 

PINEAPPLE CHIPS. 

1577. INGREDIENTS. --Pineapples; sugar to taste. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strewover it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or very slowoven, 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then put thepieces of pine on tins, and place them in a quick oven for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper between eachlayer. 

_Time_. --8 to 10 days. 

_Seasonable_. --Foreign pines, in July and August. 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE. 

1578. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit, weighed after being pared, allow 1 lb. Of loaf sugar; 1/4 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --The pines for making this preserve should be perfectly soundbut ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the fruit shrinks verymuch in the boiling. Pare off the rind carefully, that none of the pinebe wasted; and, in doing so, notch it in and out, as the edge cannot besmoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a portion of the sugar in apreserving-pan with 1/4 pint of water; when this is melted, graduallyadd the remainder of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a clearsyrup, skimming well. As soon as this is the case, put in the pieces ofpine, and boil well for at least 1/2 hour, or until it looks nearlytransparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and store away in adry place. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to boil the fruit. _Average cost_, 10d. To 1s. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_. --Foreign pines, in July and August. 

 THE PINEAPPLE IN HEATHENDOM. --Heathen nations invented protective divinities for their orchards (such as Pomona, Vertumnus, Priapus, &c. ), and benevolent patrons for their fruits: thus, the olive-tree grew under the auspices of Minerva; the Muses cherished the palm-tree, Bacchus the fig and grape, _and the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great Cyble_. 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE, for Present Use. 

1579. INGREDIENTS. --Pineapple, sugar, water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the pine into slices 1/4 inch in thickness; peel them, andremove the hard part from the middle. Put the parings and hard piecesinto a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil for 1/4hour. Strain the liquor, and put in the slices of pine. Stew them for 10minutes, add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, and boilagain for another 1/4 hour; skim well, and the preserve will be readyfor use. It must be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very short time. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to boil the parings in water; 10 minutes to boil thepine without sugar, 1/4 hour with sugar. 

_Average cost_. --Foreign pines, 1s. To 3s. Each; English, from 2s. To12s. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_. --Foreign, in July and August; English, all the year. 

PLUM JAM. 

1580. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of plums, weighed before being stoned, allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --In making plum jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. Of fruitmust be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit, some plumsrequiring much more sugar than others. Divide the plums, take out thestones, and put them on to large dishes, with roughly-pounded sugarsprinkled over them in the above proportion, and let them remain for oneday; then put them into a preserving-pan, stand them by the side of thefire to simmer gently for about 1/2 hour, and then boil them rapidly foranother 15 minutes. The scum must be carefully removed as it rises, andthe jam must be well stirred all the time, or it will burn at the bottomof the pan, and so spoil the colour and flavour of the preserve. Some ofthe stones may be cracked, and a few kernels added to the jam justbefore it is done: these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums. The above proportion of sugar would answer for Orleans plums; theImpératrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour would not require quite so much. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour to simmer gently, 1/4 hour to boil rapidly. 

_Best plums for preserving_. --Violets, Mussels, Orleans, ImpératriceMagnum-bonum, and Winesour. 

_Seasonable_ from the end of July to the beginning of October. 

 PLUMS. --The Damson, or Damascene plum, takes its name from Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and whence it was brought into Italy about 114 B. C. The Orleans plum is from France. The Greengage is called after the Gage family, who first brought it into England from the monastery of the Chartreuse, at Paris, where it still bears the name of Reine Claude. The Magnum-bonum is our largest plum, and greatly esteemed for preserves and culinary purposes. The best sorts of plums are agreeable at the dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are wholesome; but some are too astringent. They lose much of their bad qualities by baking, and are extensively used, from their cheapness, when in full season, in tarts and preserves; but they are not a very wholesome fruit, and should be eaten in moderation. 

PRESERVED PLUMS. 

1581. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar;for the thin syrup, 1/4 lb. Of sugar to each pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Select large ripe plums; slightly prick them, to prevent themfrom bursting, and simmer them very gently in a syrup made with theabove proportion of sugar and water. Put them carefully into a pan, letthe syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and allow them to remain for twodays. Having previously weighed the other sugar, dip the lumps quicklyinto water, and put them into a preserving-pan with no more water thanhangs about them; and boil the sugar to a syrup, carefully skimming it. Drain the plums from the first syrup; put them into the fresh syrup, andsimmer them very gently until they are clear; lift them out singly intopots, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover down to exclude the air. This preserve will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place, andmakes a very nice addition to a dessert. The magnum-bonum plums answerfor this preserve better than any other kind of plum. Greengages arealso very delicious done in this manner. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup;20 minutes to 1/2 hour very gentle simmering in the second. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

TO PRESERVE PLUMS DRY. 

1582. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water. _Mode_. --Gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turningcolour; prick them, put them into a saucepan of cold water, and set themon the fire until the water is on the point of boiling. Then take themout, drain them, and boil them gently in syrup made with the aboveproportion of sugar and water; and if the plums shrink, and will nottake the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan; give them anotherboil, skim, and set them by. The next day add some more sugar, boiledalmost to candy, to the fruit and syrup; put all together into awide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for 2 nights; then drainthe plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and drythem in a cool oven. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup. _Seasonable_from August to October. 

 PLUMS. --The wild sloe is the parent of the plum, but the acclimated kinds come from the East. The cultivation of this fruit was probably attended to very early in England, as Gerrard informs us that, in 1597, he had in his garden, in Holborn, threescore sorts. The sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows, and belongs to the natural order _Amygdaleae_; the fruit is about the size of a large pea, of a black colour, and covered with a bloom of a bright blue. It is one of the few indigenous to our island. The juice is extremely sharp and astringent, and was formerly employed as a medicine, where astringents were necessary. It now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made to imitate port, and also for adulteration. The leaves have been used to adulterate tea; the fruit, when ripe, makes a good preserve. 

STEWED FRENCH PLUMS. 

(_A Dessert Dish_. )

1583. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of French plums, 3/4 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1 glass of port wine, the rind and juice of 1 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Stew the plums gently in water for 1 hour; strain the water, and with it make the syrup. When it is clear, put in the plums with theport wine, lemon-juice, and rind, and simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour. Arrange the plums on a glass dish, take out the lemon-rind, pour thesyrup over the plums, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. Alittle allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons considered animprovement. 

_Time_. --1 hour to stew the plums in water, 1-1/2 hour in the syrup. 

_Average cost_, --plums sufficiently good for stewing, 1s. Per lb. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in winter. 

PRESERVED PUMPKIN. 

1584. INGREDIENTS. --To each lb. Of pumpkin allow 1 lb. Of roughlypounded loaf sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Obtain a good sweet pumpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, andpare off the rind; cut it into neat slices, or into pieces about thesize of a five-shilling piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the slices in apan or deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them; pourthe lemon-juice over the top, and let the whole remain for 2 or 3 days. Boil altogether, adding 1/4 pint of water to every 3 lbs. Of sugar useduntil the pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, wherelet it remain for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it isquite thick; skim, and pour it, boiling, over the pumpkin. A littlebruised ginger and lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be boiled in the syrupto flavour the pumpkin. 

_Time_. --From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the pumpkin tender. 

_Average cost_, 5d. To 7d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ in September and October; but better when made in thelatter month, as the pumpkin is then quite ripe. 

_Note_. --Vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same manner, but are not quite so rich. 

QUINCE JELLY. 

1585. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-panwith sufficient water to float them. Boil them until tender, and thefruit is reduced to a pulp; strain off the clear juice, and to each pintallow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugartogether for about 3/4 hour; remove all the scum as it rises, and, whenthe jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate, it is done. The residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common marmalade, for immediate use, by boiling it with 1/2 lb. Of common sugar to everylb. Of pulp. 

_Time_. --3 hours to boil the quinces in water; 3/4 hour to boil thejelly. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 10d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ from August to October. 

QUINCE MARMALADE. 

1586. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of quince pulp allow 3/4 lb. Of loafsugar. 

_Mode_. --Slice the quinces into a preserving-pan, adding sufficientwater for them to float; place them on the fire to stew, until reducedto a pulp, keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom, to preventtheir burning; then pass the pulp through a hair sieve, to keep back theskin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to each lb. Add lump sugar in theabove proportion, broken very small. Place the whole on the fire, andkeep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, until reduced to a marmalade, which may be known by dropping a little ona cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilsthot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the sizeof the mouths of the jars. The tops of them may be afterwards coveredwith pieces of bladder, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides withthe white of an egg. 

_Time_. --3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar; 3/4 hour to boilthe pulp with the sugar. 

_Average cost_, from 8d. To 9d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 pint of sliced quinces for a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October. 

RAISIN CHEESE. 

1587. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of raisins allow a lb. Of loaf sugar;pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste. 

_Mode_. --Stone the raisins; put them into a stewpan with the sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for 1-1/2 hour, stirring all thetime. Let the preparation cool a little, pour it into a glass dish, andgarnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron. This will remaingood some time, if kept in a dry place. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d. _Sufficient_. --1 lb. For 4 or 5persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

RASPBERRY JAM. 

1588. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of raspberries allow 1 lb. Of sugar, 1/4 pint of red-currant juice. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks, put the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a woodenspoon, and let them boil for 1/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Thenadd the currant-juice and sugar, and boil again for 1/2 hour. Skim thejam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will not be clear. The addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to thispreserve, as it gives it a piquant taste, which the flavour of theraspberries seems to require. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar; 1/4 hour afterit is added. 

_Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ in July and August. 

RASPBERRY JELLY. 

1589. INGREDIENTS. --To each pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and pickedfrom the stalks; put them into a large jar, after breaking the fruit alittle with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a saucepanof boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will be in from3/4 to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth;measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of loafsugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over thefire, and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is pouredon a plate; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jellyinto small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly answersfor making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet dishes, when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour to draw the juice. 

_Average cost_, from 9d. To 1s. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient. _--From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint ofjuice. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made in July or August. 

RHUBARB JAM. 

1590. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of rhubarb allow 1 lb. Of loaf sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry, take off the string or peel, and weigh it; put it into a preserving-pan, with sugar in the aboveproportion; mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it to the otheringredients, and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire; keepstirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and when the sugar is welldissolved, put the pan more over the fire, and let the jam boil until itis done, taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with a woodenor silver spoon. Pour it into pots, and cover down with oiled and eggedpapers. 

_Time_. --If the rhubarb is young and tender, 3/4 hour, reckoning fromthe time it simmers equally; old rhubarb, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 5d. To 7d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient_. --About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ from February to April. 

RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, to resemble Scotch Marmalade. 

1591. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges, 1-1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Peel the oranges; remove as much of the white pith as possible, divide them, and take out the pips; slice the pulp into apreserving-pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel the rhubarb, cutit into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, and stir altogether over agentle fire until the jam is done. Remove all the scum as it rises, putthe preserve into pots, and, when cold, cover down. Should the rhubarbbe very old, stew it alone for 1/4 hour before the other ingredients areadded. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, from 6d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Seasonable_ from February to April. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad. 

(_A Dessert Dish_. )

1592. _Mode_. --Fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from thestalks, piling it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely-poundedsugar. They may be made of strawberries, raspberries, currants, or anyof these fruits mixed; peaches also make a very good salad. After thesugar is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls of wine or brandy, or 3 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, should be poured in the middle of thefruit; and, when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon may beadded. In helping the fruit, it should be lightly stirred, that the wineand sugar may be equally distributed. 

_Sufficient. _--1-1/2 pint of fruit, with 3 oz. Of pounded sugar, for 4or 5 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in summer. 

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. 

1593. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of picked strawberries allow 1/3 pintof cream, 2 oz. Of finely-pounded sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pick the stalks from the fruit, place it on a glass dish, sprinkle over it pounded sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, thatthey may all be equally sweetened; pour the cream over the top, andserve. Devonshire cream, when it can be obtained, is exceedinglydelicious for this dish; and, if very thick indeed, may be diluted witha little thin cream or milk. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, with cream at 1s. Per pint, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. 

_Seasonable_ in June and July. 

STRAWBERRY JAM. 

1594. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 1/2 pint of red-currantjuice, 1-1/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into a jar; placethis jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the juice iswell drawn from the fruit; strain the currants, measure the juice, putit into a preserving-pan, and add the sugar. Select well-ripened butsound strawberries; pick them from the stalks, and when the sugar isdissolved in the currant juice, put in the fruit. Simmer the whole overa moderate fire, from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as itrises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent it from burning at the bottomof the pan, as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. Putthe jam into jars, and when cold, cover down. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam simmers allover. 

_Average cost_, from 7d. To 8d. Per lb. Pot. 

_Sufficient. _--12 pints of strawberries will make 12 lb. Pots of jam. 

_Seasonable_ in June and July. 

PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES IN WINE. 

1595. INGREDIENTS. --To every quart bottle allow 1/4 lb. Offinely-pounded loaf sugar; sherry or Madeira. 

_Mode_. --Let the fruit be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon aspicked. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice softcorks or bungs. Pick the stalks from the strawberries, drop them intothe bottles, sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in the aboveproportion, and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the bottle, fillup with sherry or Madeira. Cork the bottles down with new corks, and dipthem into melted resin. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in June or July. 

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE. 

1596. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of fruit allow 1-1/2 lb. Of good loafsugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice. 

_Mode_. --Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort andof a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish, and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar, which must be finelypounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be equallydistributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let it remain for1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant jellyNo. 1533; boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thinsyrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar, until the whole issufficiently jellied. Great care must be taken not to stir the fruitroughly, as it should be preserved as whole as possible. Strawberriesprepared in this manner are very good served in glasses and mixed withthin cream. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup. 

_Seasonable_ in June and July. 

TO MAKE EVERTON TOFFEE. 

1597. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of water, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon. 

_Mode_. --Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and beat the butterto a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter, and keepstirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little ispoured on to a buttered dish; and just before the toffee is done, addthe essence of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, andwhen cool, it will easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, anexcellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white sugar, omitting the water, and flavoured with 1/2 oz. Of powdered ginger. It ismade in the same manner as toffee. 

_Time_. --18 to 35 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ to make a lb. Of toffee. 

DESSERT DISHES. 

[Illustration: DISH OF NUTS. ]

[Illustration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS. ]

[Illustration: DISH OF MIXED FRUIT. ]

1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in ourillustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruitcan be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishesthan on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed downthe centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the formerbeing arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and the latter onthe dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the sameday that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged onthe dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits thatare in season, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These, with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c. , aresufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandypippins, &c. &c. , must supply its place, with the addition of preserves, bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, forced fruit isserved growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones, and arranged with the other dishes. --(See coloured plate W1. ) A fewvases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to theappearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a fewpaper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a substitute. In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vaseor two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to theelegance of the _tout ensemble_. In summer and autumn, ladies residingin the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowerson their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. Onthe continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariablyplaced down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Icesfor dessert are usually moulded: when this is not the case, they arehanded round in glasses with wafers to accompany them. Preserved gingeris frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for thedelicious dessert wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugarmust never be omitted at a dessert, as also a glass jug of fresh coldwater (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape-scissors, a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table, if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes servedat the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. TheFrench often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh ordried fruit. At some tables, finger-glasses are placed at the right ofeach person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winterwith tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a glass orvase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which eachguest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes hislips and the tips of his fingers. 

[Illustration: BOX OF CHOCOLATE. ]

[Illustration: DISH OF APPLES. ]

[Illustration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS. ]

[Illustration: DISH OF STRAWBERRIES. ]

After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates, glasses, spoons, &c. , the wine should be put at each end of the table, cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, thewine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host. 

DISH OF NUTS. 

1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, asshown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filbertsshould always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnutsshould be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then--with a dry one, toremove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have. 

_Seasonable_. --Filberts from September to March, good; may be had afterthat time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from Septemberto January. 

 HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT. --The common Hazel is the wild, and the Filbert the cultivated state of the same tree. The hazel is found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and mountainous parts of the country. It was formerly one of the most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and the white, and the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common hazel, which have been produced, partly by the superiority of soil and climate, and partly by culture. They were originally brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way to Holland, and from that country to England. It is supposed that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more filberts grown than in all England besides; and it is from that place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is longer than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and has a larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from oil, and disagree with few persons. 

 WALNUTS. --The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and China, but was introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable flavour; and the fruit is also much used in the green state, but before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts are employed in tarts and other dishes. The Walnut abounds in oil which is expressed and which, being of a highly drying nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting. This, on the continent, is sometimes used as a substitute for olive-oil in cooking, but is very apt to turn rancid. It is also manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse matter after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry or other domestic animals. In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor people under the name of _pain amer. _

BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS. 

1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it maybe placed on the table; if small, on a glass dish; if large, withoutone, French plums may also be arranged on a glass plate, and garnishedwith bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. Allfancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the tableor not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, beleft to individual taste. 

_Seasonable_. --May be purchased all the year; but are in greaterperfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, asfresh fruit cannot be obtained. 

DISH OF MIXED FRUIT. 

1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has aremarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. Ahigh raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done inthe following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, inthis tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thicklayer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and suchfruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of mossunderneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shapeto the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portionof some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a négligékind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. Inarranging the plums, apples, &c. , let the colours contrast well. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for a dessert in September or October. 

 GRAPES. --France produces about a thousand varieties of the grape, which is cultivated more extensively in that country than in any other. Hygienists agree in pronouncing grapes as among the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities: it is nourishing and fattening, and its prolonged use has often overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation. The skins and pips of grapes should not be eaten. 

BOX OF CHOCOLATE. 

1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate ordish. 

_Seasonable_. --May be purchased at any time. 

DISH OF APPLES. 

1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arrangedon a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between eachlayer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with thebright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnishing dessertdishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also bewiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table. 

DISH OF MIXED SUMMER FRUIT. 

1604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, andstrawberries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves betweeneach layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should bearranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely onewith the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at thebottom, then one of red raspberries; over that a layer of whitecurrants, and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries. 

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August. 

ALMONDS AND RAISINS. 

1605. These are usually served on glass dishes, the fruit piled high inthe centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch thealmonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them boilingwater, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may then beeasily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, &c. , are all served on smallglass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh fruitis not obtainable. 

 DATES. --Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from Barbary and Egypt, and, when in good condition, they are much esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which are dried hard, and have little or no flavour. They should be chosen large, softish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on the outside, with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the stone. 

DISH OF STRAWBERRIES. 

1606. Fine strawberries, arranged in the manner shown in the engraving, look exceedingly well. The inferior ones should be placed at the bottomof the dish, and the others put in rows pyramidically, with the stalksdownwards; so that when the whole is completed, nothing but the red partof the fruit is visible. The fruit should be gathered with rather longstalks, as there is then something to support it, and it can be placedmore upright in each layer. A few of the finest should be reserved tocrown the top. 

TO HAVE WALNUTS FRESH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON. 

1607. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Place the walnuts in the salt and water for 24 hours at least;then take them out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may be freshened in thismanner; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put into an earthen panwith salt sprinkled amongst them, and with damped hay placed on the topof them, and then covered down with a lid. They must be well wipedbefore they are put on table. 

_Seasonable_. --Should be stored away in September or October. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXII. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. 

MILK. 

1608. Milk is obtained only from the class of animals called Mammalia, and is intended by Nature for the nourishment of their young. The milkof each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities; but as that ofthe cow is by far the most useful to us in this part of the world, ourobservations will be confined to that variety. 

1609. Milk, when drawn from the cow, is of a yellowish-white colour, andis the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Itstaste is agreeable, and rather saccharine. The viscidity and specificgravity of milk are somewhat greater than that of water; but theseproperties vary somewhat in the milk procured from differentindividuals. On an average, the specific gravity of milk is 1. 035, waterbeing 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed afford the richest milk. 

1610. Milk which is carried to a considerable distance, so as to be muchagitated, and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream, never throws up so much, nor such rich cream, as if the same milk hadbeen put into pans directly after it was milked. 

1611. Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domesticeconomy as to render all the improvements in its production extremelyvaluable. To enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary; ithas always been a favourite food in Britain. "Lacte et carno vivunt, "says Caesar, in his Commentaries; the English of which is, "theinhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk. " The breed of the cow hasreceived great improvement in modern times, as regards the quantity andquality of the milk which she affords; the form of milch-cows, theirmode of nourishment, and progress, are also manifest in the managementof the dairy. 

1612. Although milk in its natural state be a fluid, yet, considered asan aliment, it is both solid and fluid: for no sooner does it enter thestomach, than it is coagulated by the gastric juice, and separated intocurd and whey, the first of these being extremely nutritive. 

1613. Milk of the _human subject_ is much thinner than cow's milk;_Ass's milk_ comes the nearest to human milk of any other; _Goat's milk_is something thicker and richer than cow's milk; _Ewe's milk_ has theappearance of cow's milk, and affords a larger quantity of cream;_Mare's milk_ contains more sugar than that of the ewe; _Camel's milk_is used only in Africa; _Buffalo's milk_ is employed in India. 

1614. From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number ofdistinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk; some forming food, others drink; some of them delicious, and deserving the name ofluxuries; all of them wholesome, and some medicinal: indeed, the varietyof aliments that seems capable of being produced from milk, appears tobe quite endless. In every age this must have been a subject forexperiment, and every nation has added to the number by the invention ofsome peculiarity of its own. 

BUTTER. 

1615. BECKMAN, in his "History of Inventions, " states that butter wasnot used either by the Greeks or Romans in cooking, nor was it broughtupon their tables at certain meals, as is the custom at present. InEngland it has been made from time immemorial, though the art of makingcheese is said not to have been known to the ancient Britons, and tohave been learned from their conquerors. 

1616. The taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fattysubstance. It is extremely agreeable when of the best quality; but itsflavour depends much upon the food given to the cows: to be good, itshould not adhere to the knife. 

1617. Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regardednearly in the light of vegetable oils and animal fats; but it becomessooner rancid than most other fat oils. When fresh, it cannot but beconsidered as very wholesome; but it should be quite free fromrancidity. If slightly salted when it is fresh, its wholesomeness isprobably not at all impaired; but should it begin to turn rancid, salting will not correct its unwholesomeness. When salt butter is putinto casks, the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid, and this rancidity is also liable to affect the whole cask. 

1618. _Epping butter_ is the kind most esteemed in London. _Freshbutter_ comes to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, Devonshire, &c. _Cambridge butter_ is esteemed next to fresh;_Devonshire butter_ is nearly similar in quality to the latter; _Irishbutter_ sold in London is all salted, but is generally good. The numberof firkins exported annually from Ireland amounts to 420, 000, equal to amillion of money. _Dutch butter_ is in good repute all over Europe, America, and even India; and no country in the world is so successful inthe manufacture of this article, Holland supplying more butter to therest of the world than any country whatever. 

1619. There are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter. Inone, the cream is separated from the milk, and in that state it isconverted into butter by churning, as is the practice about Epping; inthe other, milk is subjected to the same process, which is the methodusually followed in Cheshire. The first method is generally said to givethe richest butter, and the latter the largest quantity, though some areof opinion that there is little difference either in quality orquantity. 

CHEESE. 

1620. CHEESE is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation, pressed and dried for use. Curd, called also casein and caseous matter, or the basis of cheese, exists in the milk, and not in the cream, andrequires only to be separated by coagulation. The coagulation, however, supposes some alteration of the curd. By means of the substance employedto coagulate it, it is rendered insoluble in water. When the curd isfreed from the whey, kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely, itbecomes cheese. This assumes a degree of transparency, and possessesmany of the properties of coagulated albumen. If it be well dried, itdoes not change by exposure to the air; but if it contain moisture, itsoon putrefies. It therefore requires some salt to preserve it, and thisacts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All our cheese is coloured more orless, except that made from skim milk. The colouring substances employedare arnatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless theyare adulterated; and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains redlead. 

1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materialsof which it is composed. It is made--1. Of entire milk, as in Cheshire;2. Of milk and cream, as at Stilton; 3. Of new milk mixed with skimmedmilk, as in Gloucestershire; 4. Of skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk, Holland, and Italy. 

1622. The principal varieties of cheese used in England are thefollowing:--_Cheshire cheese_, famed all over Europe for its richquality and fine piquant flavour. It is made of entire new milk, thecream not being taken off. _Gloucester cheese_ is much milder in itstaste than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Gloucestercheese, --single and double. _Single Gloucester_ is made of skimmed milk, or of the milk deprived of half the cream; _Double Gloucester_ is acheese that pleases almost every palate: it is made of the whole milkand cream. _Stilton cheese_ is made by adding the cream of one day tothe entire milk of the next: it was first made at Stilton, inLeicestershire. _Sage cheese_ is so called from the practice ofcolouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, and parsley, andmixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the Romans, and during themiddle ages, this practice was extensively adopted. _Cheddar cheese_much resembles Parmesan. It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, andhas a spongy appearance. _Brickbat cheese_ has nothing remarkable exceptits form. It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and newmilk. The curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and isthen pressed and dried in the usual way. _Dunlop cheese_ has apeculiarly mild and rich taste: the best is made entirely from new milk. _New cheese_ (as it is called in London) is made chiefly inLincolnshire, and is either made of all cream, or, like Stilton. Byadding the cream of one day's milking to the milk that comes immediatelyfrom the cow: they are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two orthree times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes, salad, &c. _Skimmed Milk cheese_ is made for sea voyages principally. _Parmesan cheese_ is made in Parma and Piacenza. It is the mostcelebrated of all cheese: it is made entirely of skimmed cow's milk. Thehigh flavour which it has, is supposed to be owing to the rich herbageof the meadows of the Po, where the cows are pastured. The best Parmesanis kept for three or four years, and none is carried to market till itis at least six months old. _Dutch cheese_ derives its peculiar pungenttaste from the practice adopted in Holland of coagulating the milk withmuriatic acid instead of rennet. _Swiss cheeses_ in their severalvarieties are all remarkable for their fine flavour. That from_Gruyère_, a bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is best known inEngland. It is flavoured by the dried herb of _Melilotos officinalis_ inpowder. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia andSaxony. _Cream cheese_, although so called, is not properly cheese, butis nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. 

EGGS. 

1623. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, although the qualities of those belonging to different birds varysomewhat. Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food, particularly when "new-laid. " The quality of eggs depends much upon thefood given to the hen. Eggs in general are considered most easilydigestible when little subjected to the art of cookery. The lightest wayof dressing them is by poaching, which is effected by putting them for aminute or two into brisk boiling water: this coagulates the externalwhite, without doing the inner part too much. Eggs are much better whennew-laid than a day or two afterwards. The usual time allotted forboiling eggs in the shell is 3 to 3-3/4 minutes: less time than that inboiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white, and morewill make the yolk hard and less digestible: it is very difficult to_guess_ accurately as to the time. Great care should be employed inputting them into the water, to prevent cracking the shell, whichinevitably causes a portion of the white to exude, and lets water intothe egg. Eggs are often beaten up raw in nutritive beverages. 

1624. Eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cookery, entrées, and entremets, and they form an essential ingredient in pastry, creams, flip, &c. It is particularly necessary that they should be quitefresh, as nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett justly says, stale, or even preserved eggs, are things to be run from, not after. 

1625. The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of thekingdom, and they are likewise largely imported from various places onthe continent; as France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. Itappears from official statements mentioned in McCulloch's "CommercialDictionary, " that the number imported from France alone amounts to about60, 000, 000 a year; and supposing them on an average to cost fourpence adozen, it follows that we pay our continental neighbours above £83, 000 ayear for eggs. 

1626. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour. Those ofthe ostrich are the largest: one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed2 lbs. 14 oz. , held a pint, and was six inches deep: this is about theusual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe _ostricheggs_ as of an agreeable taste: they keep longer than hen's eggs. Drinking-cups are often made of the shell, which is very strong. Theeggs of the _turkey_ are almost as mild as those of the hen; the egg ofthe _goose_ is large, but well-tasted. _Duck's eggs_ have a richflavour; the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set orcoagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hen's eggs. _Guinea-fowl eggs_ are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. Eggs of _wild fowl_ are generally coloured, often spotted; and the tastegenerally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to. Those of land birds that are eaten, as the _plover, lapwing, ruff_, &c. , are in general much esteemed; but those of _sea-fowl_ have, more orless, a strong fishy taste. The eggs of the _turtle_ are very numerous:they consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

SEPARATION OF MILK AND CREAM. 

1627. If it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely fromcream, it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish, notmore than 1-1/2 inch deep, as cream cannot rise through a great depth ofmilk. In cold and wet weather, milk is not so rich as it is in summerand warm weather, and the morning's milk is always richer than theevening's. The last-drawn milk of each milking, at all times andseasons, is richer than the first-drawn, and on that account should beset apart for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible whencarried from the cow to the dairy, and should be poured into the pansvery gently. Persons not keeping cows, may always have a little cream, provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated. As soon as itcomes in, it should be poured into very shallow open pie-dishes, and setby in a very cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours a nice cream should haverisen to the surface. 

 MILK is one of the most complete of all articles of food: that is to say, it contains a very large number of the elements which enter into the composition of the human body. It "disagrees" with fat, heavy, languid people, of slow circulation; and, at first, with many people of sedentary habits, and stomachs weakened by stimulants of different kinds. But, if exercise can be taken and a little patience shown, while the system accommodates itself to a new regimen, this bland and soothing article of diet is excellent for the majority of thin, nervous people; especially for those who have suffered much from emotional disturbances, or have relaxed their stomachs by too much tea or coffee, taken too hot. Milk is, in fact, a nutrient and a sedative at once. Stomachs, however, have their idiosyncrasies, and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and ill-digested article of food. As milk, when good, contains a good deal of respiratory material (fat), --material which _must_ either be burnt off, or derange the liver, and be rejected in other ways, it may disagree because the lungs are not sufficiently used in the open air. But it is very probable that there are really "constitutions" which cannot take to it; and _they_ should not be forced. 

TO KEEP MILK AND CREAM IN HOT WEATHER. 

1628. When the weather is very warm, and it is very difficult to preventmilk from turning sour and spoiling the cream, it should be scalded, andit will then remain good for a few hours. It must on no account beallowed to boil, or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon themilk; and the slower the process, the safer will it be. A very good planto scald milk, is to put the pan that contains it into a saucepan orwide kettle of boiling water. When the surface looks thick, the milk issufficiently scalded, and it should then be put away in a cool place inthe same vessel that it was scalded in. Cream may be kept for 24 hours, if scalded without sugar; and by the addition of the latter ingredient, it will remain good double the time, if kept in a cool place. All pans, jugs, and vessels intended for milk, should be kept beautifully clean, and well scalded before the milk is put in, as any negligence in thisrespect may cause large quantities of it to be spoiled; and milk shouldnever be kept in vessels of zinc or copper. Milk may be preserved goodin hot weather, for a few hours, by placing the jug which contains it inice, or very cold water; or a pinch of bicarbonate of soda may beintroduced into the liquid. 

 MILK, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour: the cream always comes to the top; the well-known milky odour is strong; it will boil without altering its appearance, in these respects; the little bladders which arise on the surface will renew themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in fact, the simplest way of testing its quality. The commonest adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is a good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a little starch, or colored with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but these processes have nothing murderous in them. 

CURDS AND WHEY. 

1629. INGREDIENTS. --A very small piece of rennet, 1/2 gallon of milk. 

_Mode_. --Procure from the butcher's a small piece of rennet, which isthe stomach of the calf, taken as soon as it is killed, scoured, andwell rubbed with salt, and stretched on sticks to dry. Pour some boilingwater on the rennet, and let it remain for 6 hours; then use the liquorto turn the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the cow: ifallowed to cool, it must be heated till it is of a degree quite equal tonew milk; but do not let it be too hot. About a tablespoonful or rathermore, would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of milk intocurds and whey; and whilst the milk is turning, let it be kept in rathera warm place. 

_Time_. --From 2 to 3 hours to turn the milk. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

DEVONSHIRE CREAM. 

1630. The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, half that time whenthe weather is very warm. The milkpan is then set on a stove, and shouldthere remain until the milk is quite hot; but it must not boil, or therewill be a thick skin on the surface. When it is sufficiently done, theundulations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The timerequired for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan and the heatof the fire; but the slower it is done, the better. The pan should beplaced in the dairy when the cream is sufficiently scalded, and skimmedthe following day. This cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to theLondon markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious eatenwith fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and isusually very firm. 

DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. 

1631. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of new milk allow 2 dessertspoonfulsof brandy, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and 1-1/2 dessertspoonful ofprepared rennet; thick cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk blood-warm; put it into a deep dish with thebrandy, sugar, and rennet; stir it altogether, and cover it over untilit is set. Then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top, gratesome nutmeg, and strew some sugar over, and the dish will be ready toserve. 

_Time_. --About 2 hours to set the milk. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO KEEP AND CHOOSE FRESH BUTTER. 

1632. Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool place, and in as largea mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as the moresurface is exposed, the more liability there will be to spoil; and theoutside very soon becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be kept coveredwith white paper. For small larders, butter-coolers of red brick are nowvery much used for keeping fresh butter in warm weather. These coolersare made with a large bell-shaped cover, into the top of which a littlecold water should be poured, and in summer time very frequently changed;and the butter must be kept covered. These coolers keep butterremarkably firm in hot weather, and are extremely convenient for thosewhose larder accommodation is limited. 

[Illustration: BUTTER-DISH. ]

In choosing fresh butter, remember it should smell deliciously, and beof an equal colour all through: if it smells sour, it has not beensufficiently washed from the buttermilk; and if veiny and open, it hasprobably been worked with a staler or an inferior sort. 

TO PRESERVE AND TO CHOOSE SALT BUTTER. 

1633. In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at a time, the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out, and, with a clean knife, to scrape the outside; the tub should then be wipedwith a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the butterreplaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary totake these precautions, as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness in thedairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid, and if thescraping be neglected, the whole mass would soon become spoiled. Tochoose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when drawn out, theblade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad. The layers in tubswill vary greatly, the butter being made at different times; so, to tryif the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped, and the buttertried between the staves. 

It is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream, orfrom unskimmed milk, by the churn. Of course it partakes of thequalities of the milk, and winter butter is said not to be so good asspring butter. 

A word of caution is necessary about _rancid_ butter. Nobody eats it onbread, but it is sometimes used in cooking, in forms in which theacidity can be more or less disguised. So much the worse; it is almostpoisonous, disguise it as you may. Never, under any exigency whatever, be tempted into allowing butter with even a _soupçon_ of "turning" toenter into the composition of any dish that appears on your table. And, in general, the more you can do without the employment of butter thathas been subjected to the influence of heat, the better. The woman ofmodern times is not a "leech;" but she might often keep the "leech" fromthe door, if she would give herself the trouble to invent _innocent_sauces. 

BUTTER-MOULDS, for Moulding Fresh Butter. 

[Illustration: DISH OF ROLLED BUTTER. ]

1634. Butter-moulds, or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter, aremuch used, and are made in a variety of forms and shapes. In using them, let them be kept scrupulously clean, and before the butter is pressedin, the interior should be well wetted with cold water; the butter mustthen be pressed in, the mould opened, and the perfect shape taken out. The butter may be then dished, and garnished with a wreath of parsley, if for a cheese course; if for breakfast, put it into an ornamentalbutter-dish, with a little water at the bottom, should the weather bevery warm. 

CURLED BUTTER. 

1635. Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in thewall; make a knot with the other two ends, so that a stick might passthrough. Put the butter into the cloth; twist it tightly over a dish, into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small andpretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley, ifto serve with a cheese course; or it may be sent to table plain forbreakfast, in an ornamental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing hams, salads, eggs, &c. , is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in theshape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from thehole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon orscooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly and thin. Inwarm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the spoon. 

 BUTTER may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple process. Knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk is extracted; then put it in a glazed jar, which invert in another, putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to exclude the air. Renew the water every day. 

FAIRY BUTTER. 

1636. INGREDIENTS. --The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful oforange-flower water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1/4 lb. Of goodfresh butter. 

_Mode_. --Beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar, with theorange-flower water and the sugar, until the whole is reduced to a finepaste; add the butter, and force all through an old but clean cloth bywringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard. The butter willthen drop on the plate in large and small pieces, according to the holesin the cloth. Plain butter may be done in the same manner, and is veryquickly prepared, besides having a very good effect. 

 BUTTER. --White-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the yellow; but the yellow colour is often artificially produced, by the introduction of colouring matter into the churn. 

ANCHOVY BUTTER. 

1637. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of butter allow 6 anchovies, 1 smallbunch of parsley. 

_Mode_. --Wash, bone, and pound the anchovies well in a mortar; scald theparsley, chop it, and rub through a sieve; then pound all theingredients together, mix well, and make the butter into patsimmediately. This makes a pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, forbreakfast or supper, and should be garnished with parsley. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dishes, with 4 pats each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

CHEESE. 

1638. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought inlarge quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, thelarger quantity spread with a thickly-buttered sheet of white paper, andthe outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheeses moist that are in dailyuse, when they come from table a damp cloth should be wrapped roundthem, and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to it, in a cool butnot very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them forward, put theminto a damp cellar; and, to check too large a production of mites, spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese whichare too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made intoWelsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with macaroni. Cheeses may bepreserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchmentmade pliable by soaking in water, or by rubbing them over with a coatingof melted fat. The cheeses selected should be free from cracks orbruises of any kind. 

 CHEESE. --It is well known that some persons like cheese in a state of decay, and even "alive. " There is no accounting for tastes, and it maybe hard to show why mould, which is vegetation, should not be eaten as well as salad, or maggots as well as eels. But, generally speaking, decomposing bodies are not wholesome eating, and the line must be drawn somewhere. 

STILTON CHEESE. 

[Illustration: STILTON CHEESE. ]

1639. Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as it is sometimes called, isgenerally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority fewwill dispute. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas;or, to be in prime order, should be kept from 10 to 12 months, or evenlonger. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes producedby inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at thetop. From 3 weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. Anadditional flavour may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from thetop, and pouring therein port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, and lettingthe cheese absorb these for 2 or 3 weeks. But that cheese is the finestwhich is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those whoare judges in these matters. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top of itshould be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper, with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. 

MODE OF SERVING CHEESE. 

[Illustration: CHEESE-GLASS. ]

1640. The usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a smallquantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glasscheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumblemuch, of course this method is rather wasteful, and it may then be puton the table in the piece, and the host may cut from it. When servedthus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a whited'oyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream cheese is often served in acheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan: the latter should he putinto a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, pats or slices ofbutter, and salad, cucumber, or water-cresses, should always form partof a cheese course. 

 SMOKING CHEESES. --The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste. They possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police regulations which no one could evade. 

 A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with one eye. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES. 

1641. INGREDIENTS. --Slices of brown bread-and-butter, thin slices ofcheese. 

_Mode_. --Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, someslices about 1/2 inch thick, and place them between some slices of brownbread-and-butter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the oven, and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and veryquickly. 

_Time_. --10 minutes in a brisk oven. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each sandwich. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a sandwich for each person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CHEESE. --One of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese. Unfermented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree; but cheese, in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people as an after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quantity. Bread and cheese, as a meal, is only fit for soldiers on march or labourers in the open air, who like it because it "holds the stomach a long time. "

CAYENNE CHEESES. 

1642. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Ofgrated cheese, 1/3 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt;water. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter in the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne. And salt; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten withsufficient water to make the whole into a paste; roll out, and cut intofingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a verylight colour, and serve very hot. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE A FONDUE. 

1643. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshirecheese, the weight of 2 in butter; pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the formerin a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into _very thin_ flakes. Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the mostconvenient, although the former is considered more suitable for thisdish; or an equal quantity of each may be used. Break the butter intosmall pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepperand salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whiskthe whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake the fonduein a soufflé-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half full, as the fondue should rise very much. Pin a napkin round the tin or dish, and serve very hot and very quickly. If allowed to stand after it iswithdrawn from the oven, the beauty and lightness of this preparationwill be entirely spoiled. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

BRILLAT SAVARIN'S FONDUE. 

(_An excellent Recipe_. )

1644. INGREDIENTS. --Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper and salt. 

_Mode_. --Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh theeggs in the shell, allow a third of their weight in Gruyère cheese, anda piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break the eggsinto a basin, beat them well; add the cheese, which should be grated, and the butter, which should be broken into small pieces. Stir theseingredients together with a wooden spoon; put the mixture into a linedsaucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the substance is thickand soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age of the cheese, anda good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue on a very hot silveror metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after themixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely spoiled. BrillatSavarin recommends that some choice Burgundy should he handed round withthis dish. We have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to bemade; but we have tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and found itanswer remarkably well. 

_Time_. --About 4 minutes to set the mixture. 

_Average cost_ for 4 persons, 10d. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 egg, with the other ingredients in proportion, for one person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MACARONI, as usually served with the CHEESE COURSE. 

I. 

1645. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 6 oz. Of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint ofmilk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt toflavour it; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop inthe macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender; drain themacaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and someof the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese forthe top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer ofcheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm, without oiling, theremainder of the butter, and pour it gently over the bread crumbs. Placethe dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once ortwice, that it may be equally coloured, and serve very hot. The top ofthe macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better thanplacing it before the fire, as the process is more expeditious; but itshould never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil, and soimpart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and theform entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a littlesalt instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of buttermixed with it. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown itbefore the fire. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does notrequire boiling so long a time. 

II. 

1646. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of pipe or riband macaroni, 1/2 pint ofmilk, 1/2 pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 oz. Of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk untilquite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather adeep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in; make thissufficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil; pour it overthe macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butterbroken into small pieces; brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and serve. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thickenthe eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

III. 

1647. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravyNo. 436, 6 oz. Of grated Parmesan cheese. 

_Mode_. --Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until quitetender; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready a pintof good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send it to tablewith grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When the flavour isliked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which themacaroni is boiled; but this must always be sparingly added, as it willimpart a very strong flavour. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni. 

_Average cost_, with the gravy and cheese, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

POUNDED CHEESE. 

1648. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of cheese allow 3 oz. Of fresh butter. 

_Mode_. --To pound cheese is an economical way of using it, if it hasbecome dry; it is exceedingly good spread on bread, and is the best wayof eating it for those whose digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese intosmall pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter in theabove proportion. Press it down into a jar, cover with clarified butter, and it will keep for several days. The flavour may be very muchincreased by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoonful to every lb. ), orcayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder is also not unfrequently mixedwith it. 

RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE. 

1649. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of Cheshire cheese, 1/4 lb. Of Parmesancheese, 1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll;pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste. 

_Mode_. --Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain, andput it into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped, the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound theseingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them withthe paste, and put it into small pans or saucers, which should not bemore than half filled. Bake them from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve themvery hot and very quickly. This batter answers equally well for macaroniafter it is boiled tender. 

_Time_--10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

PASTRY RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE. 

1650. INGREDIENTS. --Any pieces of very good light puff-paste Cheshire, Parmesan, or Stilton cheese. 

_Mode_. --The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, &c. Answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste, roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a niceflavour. Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle morecheese over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shapeit in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk ovenfrom 10 to 15 minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. Theappearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing theramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven. Whereexpense is not objected to, Parmesan is the best kind of cheese to usefor making this dish. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. Of paste, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TOASTED CHEESE, or SCOTCH RARE-BIT. 

1651. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of rich cheese, toast, mustard, andpepper. 

[Illustration: HOT-WATER CHEESE-DISH. ]

_Mode_. --Cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices; meltit in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and, when melted, add a small quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper; stirthe cheese until it is completely dissolved, then brown it before thefire, or with a salamander. Fill the bottom of the cheese-toaster withhot water, and serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may bepreferred. Our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-waterreservoir: the cheese is melted in the upper tin, which is placed inanother vessel of boiling water, so keeping the preparation beautifullyhot. A small quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes mixed withthe cheese; and, if it be not very rich, a few pieces of butter may bemixed with it to great advantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spreadon the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-dish at the top of the hotwater. Whichever way it is served, it is highly necessary that themixture be very hot, and very quickly sent to table, or it will beworthless. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes to melt the cheese. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Per slice. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TOASTED CHEESE, or WELSH RARE-BIT. 

1652. INGREDIENTS. --Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucestercheese, mustard, and pepper. 

_Mode_. --Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; pare offthe crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, andspread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from a good rich fat cheese; lay them on the toasted bread in acheese-toaster; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it beequally melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and aseasoning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. Tofacilitate the melting of the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes ortoasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is soessential to send this dish hot to table, it is a good plan to melt thecheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans totable, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toastshould always accompany them, with mustard, pepper, and salt. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes to melt the cheese. 

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. Each slice. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Should the cheese be dry, a little butter mixed with it will bean improvement. 

 "COW CHEESE. "--It was only fifty years after Aristotle--the fourth century before Christ--that butter began to be noticed as an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and Scythians, who used to send it to them, had it served upon their tables, and called it at first "oil of milk, " and later, _bouturos_, "cow cheese. "

SCOTCH WOODCOCK. 

1653. INGREDIENTS. --A few slices of hot buttered toast; allow 1 anchovyto each slice. For the sauce, --1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat theformer, stir to them the cream, and bring the sauce to theboiling-point, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Haveready some hot buttered toast, spread with anchovies pounded to a paste;pour a little of the hot sauce on the top, and serve very hot and veryquickly. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to make the sauce hot. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1/2 slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO CHOOSE EGGS. 

1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the egg, and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh egg. Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before alighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it will betolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and if there is a black spotattached to the shell, it is worthless. No egg should be used forculinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will renderperfectly useless those with which it has been mixed. Eggs that arepurchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in acup, and then put into a basin: by this means stale or bad eggs may beeasily rejected, without wasting the others. 

 EGGS contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment than any other article of food. But it does not follow that they are always good for weak stomachs; quite the contrary; for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work upon, a considerable volume of _ingesta_, over which the nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of the gastric juice at many points. There are many persons who cannot digest eggs, however cooked. It is said, however, that their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling. 

TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS. 

1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts, full of boiling water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at atime, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) _for_ 20_seconds_. Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as youwish to preserve; then pack them away in sawdust. We have tried thismethod of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence: they willbe found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough for culinarypurposes; and although the white may be a little tougher than that of anew-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same. Many persons keep eggsfor a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil: theyshould then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, and the eggs notallowed to touch each other. Eggs for storing should be collected infine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours old when they arepacked away, or their flavour, when used, cannot be relied on. Anothersimple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soonafter they have been laid, and then to put the vessel containing thelime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse. 

_Seasonable_. --The best time for preserving eggs is from July toSeptember. 

 EGGS. --The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by the food of the fowls who lay them. Herbs and grain together make a better food than grain only. When the hens eat too many insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour. 

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c. 

[Illustration: EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE. ]

1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon afterthey are laid; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling anew-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old. Have ready asaucepan of boiling water; put the eggs into it gently with a spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it iswithdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack. For thosewho like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will be found sufficient; 3-3/4to 4 minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely; and, if likedhard, 6 to 7 minutes will not be found too long. Should the eggs beunusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow anextra 1/2 minute for them. Eggs for salads should be boiled from 10minutes to 1/4 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for afew minutes; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, andthe shell will peel off easily. 

_Time_. --To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes; toboil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3-3/4 to 4 minutes; to boileggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes. 

_Note_. --Silver or plated egg-dishes, like that shown in our engraving, are now very much used. The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s. , andmay be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand. 

 EGGS. --When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel _full_ of boiling water, they crack, because the eggs being well filled, the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids, dilated by heat. If the volume of hot water be small, the shells do not crack, because its temperature is reduced by the eggs before the interior dilation can take place. Stale eggs, again, do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed. 

BUTTERED EGGS. 

1657. INGREDIENTS. --4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Procure the eggs new-laid if possible; break them into a basin, and beat them well; put the butter into another basin, which place inboiling water, and stir till the butter is melted. Pour that and theeggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, as themixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin, andback again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keepstirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, _withoutboiling_, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed toboil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled. 

_Time_. --About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot. _Average cost_, 7d. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a slice to each person. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

DUCKS' EGGS. 

1658. Ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainlyboiled, they are not good for eating; they answer, however, very wellfor various culinary preparations where eggs are required; such ascustards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck's egg willgo as far as 2 small hen's eggs; besides making whatever they are mixedwith exceedingly rich. They also are admirable when used in puddings. 

 PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS. --The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire. They placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for use. 

FRIED EGGS. 

1659. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1/4 lb. Of lard, butter or clarifieddripping. 

[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON. ]

_Mode_. --Place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire; put inthe fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point. Break the eggs intocups, slip them into the boiling fat, and let them remain until thewhites are delicately set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle a littleof the fat over them. Take them up with a slice, drain them for a minutefrom their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices offried bacon or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish, with the bacon put round as a garnish. 

_Time_. --2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, 1d. Each; 2d. When scarce. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 VENERATION FOR EGGS. --Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect, approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white, water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of the egg. 

EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

1660. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mincedparsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan; stir themover the fire until the mixture thickens; pour in the milk, which shouldbe boiling; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole for5 minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce, and add theminced parsley; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut theeggs into quarters, and put them on a dish. Bring the sauce to theboiling-point, add the lemon-juice, pour over the eggs, and serve. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in which they areCooked. 

1661. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 1 oz. Of butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter; melt it, break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them withwhite pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter, cutinto very small pieces, on the top of them. Put the dish on a hot plate, or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the whitesbecome set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the dish theywere cooked in on another. To hasten the cooking of the eggs, asalamander may be held over them for a minute; but great care must betaken that they are not too much done. This is an exceedingly nice dish, and one very easily prepared for breakfast. 

_Time_. --3 minutes. _Average cost_, 5d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

PLOVERS' EGGS. 

1662. Plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to table ina napkin, either hot or cold. They may also be shelled, and served thesame as eggs à la Tripe, with a good Béchamel sauce, or brown gravy, poured over them. They are also used for decorating salads, thebeautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired. 

POACHED EGGS. 

[Illustration: EGGS POACHED ON TOAST. ]

[Illustration: TIN EGG-POACHER. ]

1663. INGREDIENTS. --Eggs, water. To every pint of water allow 1tablespoonful of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quitenew-laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for thepurpose. If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almostimpossible to set it; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at allstale, it is equally difficult to poach it nicely. Strain some boilingwater into a deep clean frying-pan; break the egg into a cup withoutdamaging the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the sideof the fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Place the pan over agentle fire, and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicelyset, when the egg is ready. Take it up gently with a slice, cut away theragged edges of the white, and serve either on toasted bread or onslices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &c. A poached egg should not beoverdone, as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolkbe allowed to harden. When the egg is slipped into the water, the whiteshould be gathered together, to keep it a little in form, or the cupshould be turned over it for 1 minute. To poach an egg to perfection israther a difficult operation; so, for inexperienced cooks, a tinegg-poacher may be purchased, which greatly facilitates this manner ofdressing ecgs. Our illustration clearly shows what it is: it consists ofa tin plate with a handle, with a space for three perforated cups. Anegg should be broken into each cup, and the machine then placed in astewpan of boiling water, which has been previously strained. When thewhites of the eggs appear set, they are done, and should then becarefully slipped on to the toast or spinach, or with whatever they areserved. In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at atime; and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in whichthe eggs are done, use the above proportion. 

_Time_. --2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, according to the size of the egg. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 eggs to each person. 

_Seasonable_ at any time, but less plentiful in winter. 

POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM. 

1664. INGREDIENTS. --1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper, and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and breakeach egg into a separate cup; bring the water, &c. To boil, and slip theeggs gently into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them from 3 to 4minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on to a hotdish, and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, put in thecream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded sugar;bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter, broken intosmall pieces; toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted;pour it over the eggs, and serve. To insure the eggs not being spoiledwhilst the cream, &c. , is preparing, it is a good plan to warm the creamwith the butter, &c. , before the eggs are poached, so that it may bepoured over them immediately after they are dished. 

_Time_. --3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream. 

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

1665. COMPARATIVE SIZES OF EGGS. 

[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG. 2 TURKEY'S EGG. 3 DUCK'S EGG. 4 PLOVER'SEGG. ]

SCOTCH EGGS. 

1666. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat No. 417, hotlard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs for 10 minutes; strip them from the shells, andcover them with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; or substitute poundedanchovies for the ham. Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard, drainthem before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them, and pourround from 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. To enhance theappearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkledwith bread crumbs; but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefullyfried. The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat mustpreponderate, as it should be very relishing. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

EGGS A LA TRIPE. 

1667. INGREDIENTS. --8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 368, dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley. 

_Mode_. --Boil the eggs hard; put them into cold water, peel them, takeout the yolks whole, and shred the whites. Make 3/4 pint of Béchamelsauce by recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and, when the sauce is quitehot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish, and theshred whites round them; pour over the sauce, and garnish with leaves ofpuff-paste or fried croûtons. There is no necessity for putting the eggsinto the saucepan with the Béchamel; the sauce, being quite hot, willwarm the eggs sufficiently. 

_Time_. --10 minutes to boil the eggs. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES. 

BREAD AND BREAD-MAKING. 

1668. AMONG the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of foodfor man, the Cereals hold the first place. By means of skilfulcultivation, mankind have transformed the original forms of thesegrowths, poor and ill-flavoured as they perhaps were, into variousfruitful and agreeable species, which yield an abundant and pleasantsupply. Classified according to their respective richness in alimentaryelements, the Cereals stand thus:--Wheat, and its varieties, Rye, Barley, Oats, Rice, Indian Corn. Everybody knows it is wheat flour whichyields the best bread. Rye-bread is viscous, hard, less easily solubleby the gastric juice, and not so rich in nutritive power. Flour producedfrom barley, Indian corn, or rice, is not so readily made into bread;and the article, when made, is heavy and indigestible. 

1669. On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals[Footnote: _Cereal, _ a corn-producing plant; from Ceres, the goddess ofagriculture. ] used in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, maize, rye, barley, &c. , it will be found to consist of two parts, --the husk, or exterior covering, which is generally of a dark colour, and theinner, or albuminous part, which is more or less white. In grinding, these two portions are separated, and the husk being blown away in theprocess of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light brownpowder, consisting principally of starch and gluten. In order to renderit white, it undergoes a process called "bolting. " It is passed througha series of fine sieves, which separate the coarser parts, leavingbehind fine white flour, --the "fine firsts" of the corn-dealer. Theprocess of bolting, as just described, tends to deprive flour of itsgluten, the coarser and darker portion containing much of thatsubstance; while the lighter part is peculiarly rich in starch. Brancontains a large proportion of gluten; hence it will be seen why brownbroad is so much more nutritious than white; in fact, we may lay it downas a general rule, that the whiter the bread the less nourishment itcontains. Majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days withwhite wheaten bread, at the end of which time he died; while anotherdog, fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran, lived withoutany disturbance of his health. The "bolting" process, then, is ratherinjurious than beneficial in its result; and is one of the numerousinstances where fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by. In ancienttimes, down to the Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts ofGermany the entire meal is used; and in no part of the world are thedigestive organs of the people in a better condition. In years offamine, when corn is scarce, the use of bolted flour is most culpable, for from 18 to 20 per cent, is lost in bran. Brown bread has, of lateyears, become very popular; and many physicians have recommended it toinvalids with weak digestions with great success. This rage for whitebread has introduced adulterations of a very serious character, affecting the health of the whole community. Potatoes are added for thispurpose; but this is a comparatively harmless cheat, only reducing thenutritive property of the bread; but bone-dust and alum are also put in, which are far from harmless. 

1670. Bread-making is a very ancient art indeed. The Assyrians, Egyptians, and Greeks, used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseedand other spices, was an element; but this was unleavened. Every familyused to prepare the bread for its own consumption, the _trade_ of bakingnot having yet taken shape. It is said, that somewhere about thebeginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, the slave of an archon, at Athens, made leavened bread by accident. He had left some wheaten dough in anearthen pan, and forgotten it; some days afterwards, he lighted upon itagain, and found it turning sour. His first thought was to throw itaway; but, his master coming up, he mixed this now acescent dough withsome fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread thus produced, bythe introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermentation had begun, wasfound delicious by the archon and his friends; and the slave, beingsummoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread all over Athens; andeverybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain persons set up asbread-makers, or bakers. In a short time bread-baking became quite anart, and "Athenian bread" was quoted all over Greece as the best bread, just as the honey of Hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey. 

1671. In our own times, and among civilized peoples, bread has become anarticle of food of the first necessity; and properly so, for itconstitutes of itself a complete life-sustainer, the gluten, starch, andsugar, which it contains, representing azotized and hydro-carbonatednutrients, and combining the sustaining powers of the animal andvegetable kingdoms in one product. 

1672. WHEATEN BREAD. --The finest, wholesomest, and most savoury bread ismade from wheaten flour. There are, of wheat, three leading qualities, --the soft, the medium, and the hard wheat; the last of which yields akind of bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat, but isricher in gluten, and, consequently, more nutritive. 

1673. RYE BREAD. --This comes next to wheaten bread: it is not so rich ingluten, but is said to keep fresh longer, and to have some laxativequalities. 

1674. BARLEY BREAD, INDIAN-CORN BREAD, &c. --Bread made from barley, maize, oats, rice, potatoes, &c. "rises" badly, because the grains inquestion contain but little gluten, which makes the bread heavy, closein texture, and difficult of digestion; in fact, corn-flour has to beadded before panification can take place. In countries where wheat isscarce and maize abundant, the people make the latter a chief article ofsustenance, when prepared in different forms. 

BREAD-MAKING. 

1675. PANIFICATION, or bread-making, consists of the followingprocesses, in the case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty per cent. Ofwater is added to the flour, with the addition of some leavening matter, and, preferably, of yeast from malt and hops. All kinds of leaveningmatter have, however, been, and are still used in different parts of theworld: in the East Indies, "toddy, " which is a liquor that flows fromthe wounded cocoa-nut tree; and, in the West Indies, "dunder, " or therefuse of the distillation of rum. The dough then undergoes thewell-known process called _kneading_. The yeast produces fermentation, aprocess which may be thus described:--The dough reacting upon theleavening matter introduced, the starch of the flour is transformed intosaccharine matter, the saccharine matter being afterwards changed intoalcohol and carbonic acid. The dough must be well "bound, " and yet allowthe escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany thefermentation, and which, in their passage, cause the numerous littleholes which are seen in light bread. 

1676. The yeast must be good and fresh, if the bread is to be digestibleand nice. Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, anacetous fermentation, which flavours the bread and makes itdisagreeable. A poor thin yeast produces an imperfect fermentation, theresult being a heavy unwholesome loaf. 

1677. When the dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time, and then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves;after which it is again left to stand, when it once more swells up, andmanifests, for the last time, the symptoms of fermentation. It is thenput into the oven, where the water contained in the dough is partlyevaporated, and the loaves swell up again, while a yellow crust beginsto form upon the surface. When the bread is sufficiently baked, thebottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the finger, while thecrumb is elastic, and rises again after being pressed down with thefinger. The bread is, in all probability, baked sufficiently if, onopening the door of the oven, you are met by a cloud of steam whichquickly passes away. 

1678. One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls. When bread is taken out of the oven, it is full of moisture; the starchis held together in masses, and the bread, instead of being crusted soas to expose each grain of starch to the saliva, actually prevents theirdigestion by being formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses, which lie on the stomach like so many bullets. Bread should always be atleast a day old before it is eaten; and, if properly made, and kept in a_cool dry_ place, ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at the end ofthree or four days. Hot rolls, swimming in melted butter, and new bread, ought to be carefully shunned by everybody who has the slightest respectfor that much-injured individual--the Stomach. 

1679. AERATED BREAD. --It is not unknown to some of our readers that Dr. Dauglish, of Malvern, has recently patented a process for making bread"light" without the use of leaven. The ordinary process of bread-makingby fermentation is tedious, and much labour of human hands is requisitein the kneading, in order that the dough may be thoroughlyinterpenetrated with the leaven. The new process impregnates the bread, by the application of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air. Different opinions are expressed about the bread; but it is curious tonote, that, as corn is now reaped by machinery, and dough is baked bymachinery, the whole process of bread-making is probably in course ofundergoing changes which will emancipate both the housewife and theprofessional baker from a large amount of labour. 

1680. In the production of Aërated Bread, wheaten flour, water, salt, and carbonic acid gas (generated by proper machinery), are the onlymaterials employed. We need not inform our readers that carbonic acidgas is the source of the effervescence, whether in common water comingfrom a depth, or in lemonade, or any aërated drink. Its action, in thenew bread, takes the place of fermentation in the old. 

1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a great iron ball, inside which is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, and doing thekneading part of the business. Into this globe the flour is dropped tillit is full, and then the common atmospheric air is pumped out, and thepure gas turned on. The gas is followed by the water, which has beenaërated for the purpose, and then begins the churning or kneading partof the business. 

1682. Of course, it is not long before we have the dough, and very"light" and nice it looks. This is caught in tins, and passed on to thefloor of the oven, which is an endless floor, moving slowly through thefire. Done to a turn, the loaves emerge at the other end of theapartment, --and the Aërated Bread is made. 

1683. It may be added, that it is a good plan to change one's baker fromtime to time, and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that iseaten. 

1684. MIXED BREADS. --Rye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longerand slower baking than wheaten bread. It is better when made with leavenof wheaten flour rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. It should notbe eaten till two days old. It will keep a long time. 

1685. A good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat-flour, andrice-paste in equal proportions; also by mixing rye, wheat, and barley. In Norway, it is said that they only bake their barley broad once ayear, such is its "keeping" quality. 

1686. Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour (half with half) makes anice bread; but it is not considered very digestible, though it keepswell. 

1687. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can potatoes; but one-thirdpotato flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf. 

1688. A very good bread, better than the ordinary sort, and of adelicious flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the followingrecipe:--Take ten parts of wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, onepart of rice-paste; knead together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. This is, of course, cheaper than wheaten bread. 

1689. Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous to make good bread, and should therefore not be used immediately, but should be kept dry fora few weeks, and stirred occasionally, until it becomes dry, andcrumbles easily between the fingers. 

1690. Flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread orcakes; if at all damp, the preparation is sure to be heavy. Beforemixing it with the other ingredients, it is a good plan to place it foran hour or two before the fire, until it feels warm and dry. 

1691. Yeast from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other:it is very bitter, and, on that account, should be well washed, and putaway until the thick mass settles. If it still continues bitter, theprocess should be repeated; and, before being used, all the waterfloating at the top must be poured off. German yeast is now very muchused, and should be moistened, and thoroughly mixed with the milk orwater with which the bread is to be made. 

1692. The following observations are extracted from a valuable work onBread-making, [Footnote: "The English Bread-Book. " By Eliza Acton. London: Longman. ] and will be found very useful to our readers:--

1693. The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmostcleanliness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all theingredients used for it; and, in addition to these, there must beattention and care through the whole process. 

1694. An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, and to allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other mostcommon causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, orwhich has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it. 

1695. Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed forthe dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy. 

1696. Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making thedough very hard, and letting it become quite, cold, particularly inwinter. 

1697. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself, that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it hasreached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be theconsequence in warm weather, and bad bread in any. The goodness willalso be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part ofit hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heatrequired for its due fermentation. 

1698. MILK OR BUTTER. --Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not onlyinjure the flavour of the bread, but, in sultry weather, will oftencause it to be quite uneatable; yet either of them, if fresh and good, will materially improve its quality. 

1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should beput into a clean earthen pan, with a cover to it: this pan should beplaced at a little distance from the ground, to allow a current of airto pass underneath. Some persons prefer keeping bread on clean woodenshelves, without being covered, that the crust may not soften. Stalebread may be freshened by warming it through in a gentle oven. Stalepastry, cakes, &c. , may also be improved by this method. 

1700. The utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, are akneading-trough or pan, sufficiently large that the dough may be kneadedfreely without throwing the flour over the edges, and also to allow forits rising; a hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or two strongspoons. 

1701. Yeast must always be good of its kind, and in a fitting state toproduce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or aleproduces more effect than that of milder kinds; and the fresher theyeast, the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough. 

1702. As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be ratherquick, and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough withouthardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after thebread is put in until the dough is set, or has become firm, as the coolair admitted will have an unfavourable effect on it. 

1703. Brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for bakingbread: these should be heated with wood faggots, and then swept andmopped out, to cleanse them for the reception of the bread. Iron ovensare more difficult to manage, being apt to burn the surface of the breadbefore the middle is baked. To remedy this, a few clean bricks should beset at the bottom of the oven, close together, to receive the tins ofbread. In many modern stoves the ovens are so much improved that theybake admirably; and they can always be brought to the requiredtemperature, when it is higher than is needed, by leaving the door openfor a time. 

A FEW HINTS respecting the Making and Baking of CAKES. 

1704. _Eggs_ should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolksseparated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and socause no waste. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be verythoroughly whisked; they are generally sufficiently beaten when thickenough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk. 

1705. _Loaf Sugar_ should be well pounded, and then sifted through afine sieve. 

1706. _Currants_ should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, andthen carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be leftamongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire, tobecome thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakeswill be liable to be heavy. 

1707. _Good Butter_ should always be used in the manufacture of cakes;and if beaten to a cream, it saves much time and labour to warm, but notmelt, it before beating. 

1708. Less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixedwith the other ingredients. 

1709. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for largecakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter will not rise. Ifthe oven is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning orcatching, put a sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paperthat has been printed on, should never be used for this purpose. 

1710. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knifeinto the middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the leaststicky, put the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake isdone. 

1711. Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars, and in a dryplace. Those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made withoutit. 

BISCUITS. 

1712. Since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories, biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome, in, comparativelyspeaking, endless variety. Their actual component parts are, perhaps, known only to the various makers; but there are several kinds ofbiscuits which have long been in use, that may here be advantageouslydescribed. 

1713. Biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread, and are, perhaps, the most wholesome of that class. In cases where fermentedbread does not agree with the human stomach, they may be recommended: inmany instances they are considered lighter, and less liable to createacidity and flatulence. The name is derived from the French _bis cuit_, "twice-baked, " because, originally, that was the mode of entirelydepriving them of all moisture, to insure their keeping; but, althoughthat process is no longer employed, the name is retained. The use ofthis kind of bread on land is pretty general, and some varieties areluxuries; but, at sea, biscuits are articles of the first necessity. 

1714. SEA, or SHIP BISCUITS, are made of wheat-flour from which only thecoarsest bran has been separated. The dough is made up as stiff as itcan be worked, and is then formed into shapes, and baked in an oven;after which, the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven untilperfectly dry, to prevent them from becoming mouldy when stored. 

1715. CAPTAINS' BISCUITS are made in a similar manner, only of fineflour. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

TO MAKE YEAST FOR BREAD. 

1716. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 oz. Of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. Ofbruised malt, 1/2 pint of yeast. 

_Mode_. --Boil the hops in the water for 20 minutes; let it stand forabout 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. Of bruised malt prepared as forbrewing. Let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm; then put innot quite 1/2 pint of yeast; keep it warm, and let it work 3 or 4 hours;then put it into small 1/2-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles are thebest for the purpose), cork them well, and tie them down. The yeast isnow ready for use; it will keep good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle willbe found sufficient for 18 lbs. Of flour. When required for use, boil 3lbs. Of potatoes without salt, mash them in the same water in which theywere boiled, and rub them through a colander. Stir in about 1/2 lb. Offlour; then put in the yeast, pour it in the middle of the flour, andlet it stand warm on the hearth all night, and in the morning let it bequite warm when it is kneaded. The bottles of yeast require very carefulopening, as it is generally exceedingly ripe. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work 3 or 4hours. 

_Sufficient. _--1/2 pint sufficient for 18 lbs. Of flour. 

KIRKLEATHAM YEAST. 

1717. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 pint of yeast. 

_Mode_. --Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes; strain, and mix withthe liquid 1/2 lb. Of flour and not quite 1/2 pint of yeast. Bottle itup, and tie the corks down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes accordingto the quantity of bread to be made (about 3 lbs. Are sufficient forabout a peck of flour); mash them, add to them 1/2 lb. Of flour, and mixabout 1/2 pint of the yeast with them; let this mixture stand all day, and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to boil the hops and water. 

_Sufficient_. --1/2 pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour, orrather more. 

TO MAKE GOOD HOME-MADE BREAD. 

(_Miss Acton's Recipe_. )

1718. INGREDIENTS. --1 quartern of flour, 1 large tablespoonful of solidbrewer's yeast, or nearly 1 oz. Of fresh German yeast, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2pint of warm milk-and-water. 

[Illustration: COTTAGE LOAF. ]

[Illustration: TIN BREAD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan; then, with a strong metal or wooden spoon, hollow out the middle; but do notclear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan, as, in that case, thesponge (or leaven, as it was formerly termed) would stick to it, whichit ought not to do. Next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer'syeast which has been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of coldwater, and letting it afterwards stand to settle for a day and night; ornearly an ounce of German yeast; put it into a large basin, and proceedto mix it, so that it shall be as smooth as cream, with 3/4 pint of warmmilk-and-water, or with water only; though even a very little milk willmuch improve the bread. Pour the yeast into the hole made in the flour, and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will make athick batter, in which there must be no lumps. Strew plenty of flour onthe top; throw a thick clean cloth over, and set it where the air iswarm; but do not place it upon the kitchen fender, for it will becometoo much heated there. Look at it from time to time: when it has beenlaid for nearly an hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken throughthe flour, so that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it is readyto be made up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong chair, ordresser, or table, of convenient height; pour into the sponge theremainder of the warm milk-and-water; stir into it as much of the flouras you can with the spoon; then wipe it out clean with your fingers, andlay it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining flour, throw it on thetop of the leaven, and begin, with the knuckles of both hands, to kneadit well. When the flour is nearly all kneaded in, begin to draw theedges of the dough towards the middle, in order to mix the wholethoroughly; and when it is free from flour and lumps and crumbs, anddoes not stick to the hands when touched, it will be done, and may againbe covered with the cloth, and left to rise a second time. In 3/4 hourlook at it, and should it have swollen very much, and begin to crack, itwill be light enough to bake. Turn it then on to a paste-board or veryclean dresser, and with a large sharp knife divide it in two; make it upquickly into loaves, and dispatch it to the oven: make one or twoincisions across the tops of the loaves, as they will rise more easilyif this be done. If baked in tins or pans, rub them with a tiny piece ofbutter laid on a piece of clean paper, to prevent the dough fromsticking to them. All bread should be turned upside down, or on itsside, as soon as it is drawn from the oven: if this be neglected, theunder part of the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam, which cannot then escape from them. _To make the dough without setting asponge_, merely mix the yeast with the greater part of the warmmilk-and-water, and wet up the whole of the flour at once after a littlesalt has been stirred in, proceeding exactly, in every other respect, asin the directions just given. As the dough will _soften_ in the rising, it should be made quite firm at first, or it will be too lithe by thetime it is ready for the oven. 

[Illustration: ITALIAN MILLET. ]

_Time_. --To be left to rise an hour the first time, 3/4 hour the secondtime; to be baked from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, or baked in one loaf from 1-1/2to 2 hours. 

 ITALIAN MILLET, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt and Nubia, where it is called _dhourra_, and is used as human food, as well as for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on poor soils, and is extremely productive. It has been introduced into Italy, where they make a coarse bread from it; and it is also employed in pastry and puddings: they also use it for feeding horses and domestic fowls. It is the largest variety, growing to the height of six feet; but it requires a warm climate, and will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety, called Golden Millet, is sold in the grocers' shops, for making puddings, and is very delicate and wholesome. 

TO MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD. 

1719. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, 1/2 pintof good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. Of salt. 

_Mode_. --Peel and boil the potatoes; beat them to a cream while warm;then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and add to it1/2 pint of good yeast, which should have been put in water over-night, to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with a wooden spoon, and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour; mix it to thesubstance of cream, cover it over closely, and let it remain near thefire for an hour; then add the 5 pints of water, milk-warm, with 2 oz. Of salt; pour this in, and mix the whole to a nice light dough. Let itremain for about 2 hours; then make it into 7 loaves, and bake for about1-1/2 hour in a good oven. When baked, the bread should weigh nearly 20lbs. 

_Time_. --About 1-1/2 hour. 

 THE RED VARIETIES OF WHEAT are generally hardier and more easily grown than the white sorts, and, although of less value to the miller, they are fully more profitable to the grower, in consequence of the better crops which they produce. Another advantage the red wheats possess is their comparative immunity from the attacks of mildew and fly. The best English wheat comes from the counties of Kent and Essex; the qualities under these heads always bearing a higher price than others, as will be seen by the periodical lists in the journals. 

RICE BREAD. 

1720. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of rice allow 4 lbs. Of wheat flour, nearly 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 1/4 oz. Of salt. _Mode_. --Boil therice in water until it is quite tender; pour off the water, and put therice, before it is cold, to the flour. Mix these well together with theyeast, salt, and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smoothdough; let it rise by the side of the fire, then form it into loaves, and bake them from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to their size. If therice is boiled in milk instead of water, it makes very delicious breador cakes. When boiled in this manner, it may be mixed with the flourwithout straining the liquid from it. _Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

INDIAN-CORN-FLOUR BREAD. 

1721. INGREDIENTS. --To 4 lbs. Of flour allow 2 lbs. Of Indian-cornflour, 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, 1/4 oz. Ofsalt. _Mode_. --Mix the two flours well together, with the salt; make ahole in the centre, and stir the yeast up well with 1/2 pint of the warmwater; put this into the middle of the flour, and mix enough of it withthe yeast to make a thin batter; throw a little flour over the surfaceof this batter, cover the whole with a thick cloth, and set it to risein a warm place. When the batter has nicely risen, work the whole to anice smooth dough, adding the water as required; knead it well, andmould the dough into loaves; let them rise for nearly 1/2 hour, then putthem into a well-heated oven. If made into 2 loaves, they will requirefrom 1-1/2 to 2 hours baking. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

[Illustration: MAIZE PLANT. ]

[Illustration: EAR OF MAIZE. ]

 MAIZE. --Next to wheat and rice, maize is the grain most used in the nourishment of man. In Asia, Africa, and America, it is the principal daily food of a large portion of the population, especially of the colonists. In some of the provinces of France, too, it is consumed in large quantities. There are eight varieties of the maize; the most productive is the maize of Cusco. The flour of maize is yellow, and it contains an oily matter, which, when fresh, gives it an agreeable flavour and odour; but the action of the air on it soon develops rancidity. If carried any distance, it should be stored away in air-tight vessels. An excellent soup is prepared with meat and maize-flour. The inhabitants of some countries, where wheat is scarce, make, with maize and water, or milk and salt, a kind of biscuit, which is pleasant in taste, but indigestible. Some of the preparations of maize-flour are very good, and, when partaken in moderation, suitable food for almost everybody. 

SODA BREAD. 

1722. INGREDIENTS. --To every 2 lbs. Of flour allow 1 teaspoonful oftartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate ofsoda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk. 

_Mode_. --Let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the finestpossible powder; then mix them well with the flour. Dissolve the soda inthe milk, and pour it several times from one basin to another, beforeadding it to the flour. Work the whole quickly into a light dough, divide it into 2 loaves, and put them into a well-heated ovenimmediately, and bake for an hour. Sour milk or buttermilk may be used, but then a little less acid will be needed. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

 POLISH AND POMERANIAN WHEAT are accounted by authorities most excellent. Large raft-like barges convey this grain down the rivers, from the interior of the country to the seaports. This corn is described as being white, hard, and thin-skinned; and it yields a large quantity of flour, having a small proportion of bran. 

EXCELLENT ROLLS. 

1723. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 1 oz. Of butter, 1/4pint of milk, 1 large teaspoonful of yeast, a little salt. 

[Illustration: ROLLS. ]

_Mode_. --Warm the butter in the milk, add to it the yeast and salt, andmix these ingredients well together. Put the flour into a pan, stir inthe above ingredients, and let the dough rise, covered in a warm place. Knead it well, make it into rolls, let them rise again for a fewminutes, and bake in a quick oven. Richer rolls may be made by adding 1or 2 eggs and a larger proportion of butter, and their appearanceimproved by brushing the tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk. 

_Time_--1 lb. Of flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes. 

HOT ROLLS. 

1724. This dish, although very unwholesome and indigestible, isnevertheless a great favourite, and eaten by many persons. As soon asthe rolls come from the baker's, they should be put into the oven, which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very hot; andthe rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they are quite hot, divide them lengthwise into three; put some thin flakes of good butterbetween the slices, press the rolls together, and put them in the ovenfor a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter would oil; take themout of the oven, spread the butter equally over, divide the rolls inhalf, and put them on to a very hot clean dish, and send them instantlyto table. 

TO MAKE DRY TOAST. 

1725. To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is required;much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never use new breadfor making any kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and, besides, is veryextravagant. Procure a loaf of household bread about two days old; cutoff as many slices as may be required, not quite 1/4 inch in thickness;trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put the bread on a toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire. Move it backwards and forwardsuntil the bread is nicely coloured; then turn it and toast the otherside, and do not place it so near the fire that it blackens. Dry toastshould be more gradually made than buttered toast, as its great beautyconsists in its crispness, and this cannot be attained unless theprocess is slow and the bread is allowed gradually to colour. It shouldnever be made long before it is wanted, as it soon becomes tough, unlessplaced on the fender in front of the fire. As soon as each piece isready, it should be put into a rack, or stood upon its edges, and sentquickly to table. 

TO MAKE HOT BUTTERED TOAST. 

1726. A loaf of household bread about two days old answers for makingtoast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good shape, andtoo crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices as may berequired, rather more than 1/4 inch in thickness, and toast them beforea very bright fire, without allowing the bread to blacken, which spoilsthe appearance and flavour of all toast. When of a nice colour on bothsides, put it on a hot plate; divide some good butter into small pieces, place them on the toast, set this before the fire, and when the butteris just beginning to melt, spread it lightly over the toast. Trim offthe crust and ragged edges, divide each round into 4 pieces, and sendthe toast quickly to table. Some persons cut the slices of toast acrossfrom corner to corner, so making the pieces of a three-cornered shape. Soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces as soon as itis buttered, and when all are ready, that they should be piled lightlyon the dish they are intended to be served on. He says that by cuttingthrough 4 or 5 slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed out of theupper ones, while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid. It is highlyessential to use good butter for making this dish. 

MUFFINS. 

1727. INGREDIENTS. --To every quart of milk allow 1-1/2 oz. Of Germanyeast, a little salt; flour. 

[Illustration: MUFFINS. ]

_Mode_. --Warm the milk, add to it the yeast, and mix these welltogether; put them into a pan, and stir in sufficient flour to make thewhole into a dough of rather a soft consistence; cover it over with acloth, and place it in a warm place to rise, and, when light and nicelyrisen, divide the dough into pieces, and round them to the proper shapewith the hands; place them, in a layer of flour about two inches thick, on wooden trays, and let them rise again; when this is effected, theyeach will exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then place them carefully on ahot-plate or stove, and bake them until they are slightly browned, turning them when they are done on one side. Muffins are not easilymade, and are more generally purchased than manufactured at home. _Totoast them_, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by pulling itopen, to the depth of about an inch, with the fingers. Put it on atoasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire until one side isnicely browned, but not burnt; turn, and toast it on the other. Do nottoast them too quickly, as, if this is done, the middle of the muffinwill not be warmed through. When done, divide them by pulling them open;butter them slightly on both sides, put them together again, and cutthem into halves: when sufficient are toasted and buttered, pile them ona very hot dish, and send them very quickly to table. 

_Time_. --From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to bake them. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 muffin to each person. 

CRUMPETS. 

[Illustration: CRUMPETS. ]

1728. These are made in the same manner as muffins; only, in making themixture, let it be more like batter than dough. Let it rise for about1/2 hour; pour it into iron rings, which should be ready on a hot-plate;bake them, and when one side appears done, turn them quickly on theother. _To toast them_, have ready a very _bright clear_ fire; put thecrumpet on a toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, _not tooclose_, until it is nicely brown on one side, but do not allow it toblacken. Turn it, and brown the other side; then spread it with goodbutter, cut it in half, and, when all are done, pile them on a hot dish, and send them quickly to table. Muffins and crumpets should always beserved on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as expeditiouslyas possible. 

_Time_. --From 10 to 15 minutes to bake them. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 2 crumpets to each person. 

PLAIN BUNS. 

1729. INGREDIENTS. --To every 2 lbs. Of flour allow 6 oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 gill of yeast, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. Of butter, warm milk. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make ahole in the centre, and stir in the yeast and milk (which should belukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream. Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warmplace, which will be accomplished in about 1-1/2 hour. Melt the butter, but do not allow it to oil; stir it into the other ingredients, withenough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough; then mould it intobuns about the size of an egg; lay them in rows quite 3 inches apart;set them again in a warm place, until they have risen to double theirsize; then put them into a good brisk oven, and just before they aredone, wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20 minutes will berequired to bake them nicely. These buns may be varied by adding a fewcurrants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the other ingredients; andthe above mixture answers for hot cross buns, by putting in a littleground allspice; and by pressing a tin mould in the form of a cross inthe centre of the bun. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ to make 18 buns. 

TO MAKE GOOD PLAIN BUNS. 

1730. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of good butter, 1/4 lb. Ofsugar, 1 egg, nearly 1/4 pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls ofbaking-powder, a few drops of essence of lemon. 

_Mode_. --Warm the butter, without oiling it; beat it with a woodenspoon; stir the flour in gradually with the sugar, and mix theseingredients well together. Make the milk lukewarm, beat up with it theyolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, and stir these to the flour, &c. Add the baking-powder, beat the dough well for about 10 minutes, divide it into 24 pieces, put them into buttered tins or cups, and bakein a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes. 

_Time_. --20 to 30 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 12 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

LIGHT BUNS. 

[Illustration: BUNS. ]

1731. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful ofbicarbonate of soda, 1 lb. Of flour, 2 oz. Of butter, 2 oz. Of loafsugar, 1/4 lb. Of currants or raisins, --when liked, a few caraway seeds, 1/2 pint of cold new milk, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --Rub the tartaric acid, soda, and flour all together through ahair sieve; work the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, andcaraway seeds, when the flavour of them latter is liked. Mix all theseingredients well together; make a hole in the middle of the flour, andpour in the milk, mixed with the egg, which should be well beaten; mixquickly, and set the dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and bake thebuns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a very good cake, and ifput into a tin, should be baked 1-1/2 hour. The same quantity of flour, soda, and tartaric acid, with 1/2 pint of milk and a little salt, willmake either bread or teacakes, if wanted quickly. 

_Time_. --20 minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, 1-1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_ to make about 12 buns. 

VICTORIA BUNS. 

1732. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of pounded loaf sugar, 1 egg, 1-1/2 oz. Ofground rice, 2 oz. Of butter, 1-1/2 oz. Of currants, a few thin slicesof candied peel; flour. 

_Mode_. --Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredientswell together; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice, currants, and candied peel, and as much flour as will make it of such aconsistency that it may be rolled into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to abuttered tin, and bake them from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They should be putinto the oven immediately, or they will become heavy; and the ovenshould be tolerably brisk. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 buns. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ITALIAN RUSKS. 

1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good rusksin the following manner. Cut the cake into slices, divide each slice intwo; put them on a baking-sheet, in a slow oven, and when they are of anice brown and quite hard, they are done. They should be kept in aclosed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve their crispness. 

[Illustration: PANNICLED MILLET. ]

 PANNICLED MILLET. --This is the smallest-seeded of the corn-plants, being a true grass; but the number of the seeds in each ear makes up for their size. It grows in sandy soils that will not do for the cultivation of many other kinds of grain, and forms the chief sustenance in the arid districts of Arabia, Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. It is not cultivated in England, being principally confined to the East. The nations who make use of it grind it, in the primitive manner, between two stones, and make it into a diet which, cannot be properly called bread, but rather a kind of soft thin cake half-baked. When we take into account that the Arabians are fond of lizards and locusts as articles of food, their _cuisine_, altogether, is scarcely a tempting one. 

TO MAKE RUSKS. 

(_Suffolk Recipe_. )

1734. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 2 oz. Of butter, 1/4pint of milk, 2 oz. Of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of yeast. 

[Illustration: RUSKS. ]

_Mode_. --Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking itround until the latter is melted. Put the flour into a basin with thesugar, mix these well together, and beat the eggs. Stir them with theyeast to the milk and butter, and with this liquid work the flour into asmooth dough. Cover a cloth over the basin, and leave the dough to riseby the side of the fire; then knead it, and divide it into 12 pieces;place them in a brisk oven, and bake for about 20 minutes. Take therusks out, break them in half, and then set them in the oven to getcrisp on the other side. When cold, they should be put into tincanisters to keep them dry; and, if intended for the cheese course, thesifted sugar should be omitted. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to render them crispafter being divided. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen rusks. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES. 

1735. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of finely-pounded loaf sugar allow 1lb. Of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little rose-water. 

_Mode_. --Blanch the almonds, and pound them (a few at a time) in amortar to a paste, adding a little rose-water to facilitate theoperation. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix them withthe pounded almonds, stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. When thecake is sufficiently baked, lay on the almond icing, and put it into theoven to dry. Before laying this preparation on the cake, great care mustbe taken that it is nice and smooth, which is easily accomplished bywell beating the mixture. 

SUGAR ICING FOR CAKES. 

1736. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of loaf sugar allow the whites of 4eggs, 1 oz. Of fine starch. 

_Mode_. --Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and gradually sift in thesugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, andgradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture welluntil the sugar is smooth; then with a spoon or broad knife lay theicing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a very cooloven, and the icing allowed to dry and harden, but not to colour. Theicing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-juice, or with preparedcochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon as they are withdrawn fromthe oven, it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes are cold. On very rich cakes, such as wedding, christening cakes, &c. , a layer ofalmond icing, No. 1735, is usually spread over the top, and over thatthe white icing as described. All iced cakes should be kept in a verydry place. 

BISCUIT POWDER, generally used for Infants' Food. 

1737. This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also beprepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven; roll them andgrind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board, until they are reducedto powder; sift it through a close hair sieve, and it is fit for use. Itshould be kept in well-covered tins, and in a dry place. 

ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS. 

1738. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of butter, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 6 oz. Of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. Of pounded loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; whisk the eggs to a strong froth, add them to the butter, stir in the flour a little at a time, and beatthe mixture well. Break down all the lumps from the arrowroot, and addthat with the sugar to the other ingredients. Mix all well together, drop the dough on a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a shilling, andbake the biscuits about 1/4 hour in a slow oven. 

_Time_. --1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

NICE BREAKFAST CAKES. 

1739. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1-1/2breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. Of sifted loaf sugar, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --These cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread No. 1722, with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid, and salt well together, taking care that the two latter ingredients arereduced to the finest powder, and stir in the sifted sugar, which shouldalso be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add the eggs, whichshould be well whisked, and with this liquid work the flour, &c. Into alight dough. Divide it into small cakes, put them into the ovenimmediately, and bake for about 20 minutes. 

_Time_. --20 minutes. 

COCOA-NUT BISCUITS OR CAKES. 

1740. INGREDIENTS. --10 oz. Of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 oz. Of gratedcocoa-nut. 

_Mode_. --Whisk the eggs until they are very light; add the sugargradually; then stir in the cocoa-nut. Roll a tablespoonful of the pasteat a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid; place the pyramids onpaper, put the paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in rather a cooloven until they are just coloured a light brown. 

_Time_. --About 1/4 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

CRISP BISCUITS. 

1741. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk tomake the whole into a very stiff paste; beat it well, and knead it untilit is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thin; with a roundcutter shape it into small biscuits, and bake them a nice brown in aslow oven from 12 to 18 minutes. 

_Time_. --12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

DESSERT BISCUITS, which may be flavoured with Ground Ginger, Cinnamon, &c. &c. 

1742. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of siftedsugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the butter into a basin; warm it, but do not allow it tooil; then with the hand beat it to a cream. Add the flour by degrees, then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with the yolks ofthe eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When all theingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from a spoonon to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake, as theyspread as soon as they begin to get warm. Bake in rather a slow ovenfrom 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire too muchcolour. In making the above quantity, half may be flavoured with groundginger and the other half with essence of lemon or currants, to make avariety. With whatever the preparation is flavoured, so are the biscuitscalled; and an endless variety may be made in this manner. 

_Time_. --12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a very slow oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make from 3 to 4 dozen cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON BISCUITS. 

1743--INGREDIENTS. --1-1/4 lb. Of flour, 3/4 lb. Of loaf sugar, 6 oz. Offresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. Of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls oflemon-juice. 

_Mode_. --Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar andvery finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughlymixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and thelemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop itfrom a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakeswill spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake thecakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

MACAROONS. 

1744. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. Of sifted loafsugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper. 

[Illustration: MACAROONS. ]

_Mode_. --Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them well with alittle orange-flower water or plain water; then add to them the siftedsugar and the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stifffroth, and mix all the ingredients well together. When the paste lookssoft, drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-syringe on to sheets ofwafer-paper; put a strip of almond on the top of each; strew some sugarover, and bake the macaroons in rather a slow oven, of a light browncolour when hard and set, they are done, and must not be allowed to getvery brown, as that would spoil their appearance. If the cakes, whenbaked, appear heavy, add a little more white of egg, but let this alwaysbe well whisked before it is added to the other ingredients. We havegiven a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it almost or quiteas economical to purchase such articles as these at a goodconfectioner's. 

_Time_. --From 15 to 20 minutes, in a slow oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. Per lb. 

RATAFIAS. 

[Illustration: RATAFIAS. ]

1745. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. Of bitter ones, 3/4 lb. Of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortarwith the white of an egg; stir in the sugar, and gradually add theremaining whites of eggs, taking care that they are very thoroughlywhisked. Drop the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on tocartridge paper, and bake the cakes from 10 to 12 minutes in rather aquicker oven than for macaroons. A very small quantity should be droppedon the paper to form one cake, as, when baked, the ratafias should beabout the size of a large button. 

_Time_. --10 to 12 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. Per lb. 

RICE BISCUITS OR CAKES. 

1746. INGREDIENTS. --To every 1/2 lb. Of rice-flour allow 1/4 lb. Ofpounded lump sugar, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice-flour and poundedsugar, and moisten the whole with the eggs, which should be previouslywell beaten. Roll out the paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter intosmall cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow oven. 

_Time_. --12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to make about 18 cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 GROUND RICE, or rice-flour, is used for making several kinds of cakes, also for thickening soups, and for mixing with wheaten flour in producing Manna Kroup. The Americans make rice-bread, and prepare the flour for it in the following manner:--When the rice is thoroughly cleansed, the water is drawn off, and the rice, while damp, bruised in a mortar: it is then dried, and passed through a hair sieve. 

ROCK BISCUITS. 

1747. INGREDIENTS. --6 eggs, 1 lb. Of sifted sugar, 1/2 lb. Of flour, afew currants. 

_Mode_. --Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very light, add the pounded sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs, dredgein the flour gradually, and add the currants. Mix all well together, andput the dough, with a fork, on the tins, making it look as rough aspossible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour;when they are done, allow them to get cool, and store them away in a tincanister, in a dry place. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES. 

1748. INGREDIENTS. --4 eggs, 6 oz. Of pounded sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 oz. Of flour. 

_Mode_. --Break the eggs into a basin, separating the whites from theyolks; beat the yolks well, mix with them the pounded sugar and gratedlemon-rind, and beat these ingredients together for 1/4 hour. Thendredge in the flour gradually, and when the whites of the eggs have beenwhisked to a solid froth, stir them to the flour, &c. ; beat the mixturewell for another 5 minutes, then draw it along in strips upon thickcartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit, and bake them inrather a hot oven; but let them be carefully watched, as they are soondone, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil them. These biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are called, are used formaking Charlotte russes, and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes. 

_Time_. --5 to 8 minutes, in a quick oven. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. Per lb. , or 1/2d. Each. 

SEED BISCUITS. 

1749. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter, 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds, 3 eggs. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, sugar, andcaraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the eggs, which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, with a round cuttershape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milkor the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 3 dozen biscuits. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS. 

1750. INGREDIENTS. --To every lb. Of flour allow 2 oz. Of butter, about1/2 pint of skimmed milk. 

_Mode_. --Warm the butter in the milk until the former is dissolved, andthen mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste; beat it with arolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin;cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits; prick them well, andbake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the proportion of milkwhich we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste; but should itbe found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour must be put in. These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course. 

_Time_. --6 to 10 minutes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SODA BISCUITS. 

1751. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of pounded loaf sugar, 1/4lb. Of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin; rubin the butter, add the sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and beat it well, untileverything is well incorporated. Quickly stir in the soda, roll thepaste out until it is about 1/2 inch thick, cut it into small roundcakes with a tin cutter, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in rather abrisk oven. After the soda is added, great expedition is necessary inrolling and cutting out the paste, and in putting the biscuits_immediately_ into the oven, or they will be heavy. 

_Time_. --12 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to make about 3 dozen cakes. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

ALMOND CAKE. 

1752. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of sweet almonds, 1 oz. Of bitter almonds, 6eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of fine flour, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste; separate the whitesfrom the yolks of the eggs; beat the latter, and add them to thealmonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon-rind; add the butter, whichshould be beaten to a cream; and when all these ingredients are wellmixed, put in the whites of the eggs, which should be whisked to a stifffroth. Butter a cake-mould, put in the mixture, and bake in a good ovenfrom 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICH BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE. 

1753. INGREDIENTS. --5 lbs. Of the finest flour, 3 lbs. Of fresh butter, 5 lbs. Of currants, 2 lbs. Of sifted loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1/4 oz. Ofmace, half 1/4 oz. Of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. Of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. Of candied citron, 1/2 lb. Each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 gillof wine, 1 gill of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Let the flour be as fine as possible, and well dried andsifted; the currants washed, picked, and dried before the fire; thesugar well pounded and sifted; the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded;the eggs thoroughly whisked, whites and yolks separately; the almondspounded with a little orange-flower water, and the candied peel cut inneat slices. When all these ingredients are prepared, mix them in thefollowing manner. Begin working the butter with the hand till it becomesof a cream-like consistency; stir in the sugar, and when the whites ofthe eggs are whisked to a solid froth, mix them with the butter andsugar; next, well beat up the yolks for 10 minutes, and, adding them tothe flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continue beating the wholetogether for 1/2 hour or longer, till wanted for the oven. Then mix inlightly the currants, almonds, and candied peel with the wine andbrandy; and having lined a hoop with buttered paper, fill it with themixture, and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven, taking care, however, not to burn it: to prevent this, the top of it may be coveredwith a sheet of paper. To ascertain whether the cake is done, plunge aclean knife into the middle of it, withdraw it directly, and if theblade is not sticky, and looks bright, the cake is sufficiently baked. These cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond icing, andover that another layer of sugar icing, and afterwards ornamented. Inbaking a large cake like this, great attention must be paid to the heatof the oven; it should not be too fierce, but have a good soaking heat. 

_Time_. --5 to 6 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. Per lb. 

CHRISTMAS CAKE. 

1754. INGREDIENTS. --5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of melted butter, 1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful of moistsugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 oz. Of powdered ginger, 1/2 lb. Of raisins, 1teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. 

_Mode_. --Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not allowit to oil; put the flour into a basin; add to it the sugar, ginger, andraisins, which should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When thesedry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream, treacle, and well-whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough, and be particularthat these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others; putthe cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it in a moderate ovenimmediately, and bake it from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. 

_Time_. --1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

COMMON CAKE, suitable for sending to Children at School. 

1755. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of flour, 4 oz. Of butter or clarifieddripping, 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds, 1/4 oz. Of allspice, 1/2 lb. Ofpounded sugar, 1 lb. Of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls offresh yeast. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter lightly into the flour; add all the dryingredients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but nothot; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a lightdough; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of butteredpaper; this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the top of thetin. Put in the dough; stand it in a warm place to rise for more than anhour; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If this quantity bedivided in two, they will take from 1-1/2 to 2 hours' baking. 

_Time_. --1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes. 

ECONOMICAL CAKE. 

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD. ]

1756. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1/4 lb. Of butteror lard, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, thewhites of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk. 

_Mode_, --In making many sweet dishes, the whites of eggs are notrequired, and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients, make anexcellent cake, with or without currants. Beat the butter to a cream, well whisk the whites of the eggs, and stir all the ingredients togetherbut the soda, which must not be added until all is well mixed, and thecake is ready to be put into the oven. When the mixture has been wellbeaten, stir in the soda, put the cake into a buttered mould, and bakeit in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

A NICE USEFUL CAKE. 

1757. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 6 oz. Of currants, 1/4 lb. Ofsugar 1 lb. Of dried flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1teacupful of milk, 2 oz. Of sweet almonds, 1 oz. Of candied peel. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; wash, pick, and dry the currants;whisk the eggs; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the peel into neatslices. When all these are ready, mix the dry ingredients together; thenadd the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture well for a fewminutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it forrather more than 1-1/2 hour. The currants and candied peel may beomitted, and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them:made in this manner, the cake will be found very good. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

HONEY CAKE. 

1758. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 breakfast-cupful of sugar, 1 breakfast-cupful ofrich sour cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful ofcarbonate of soda, honey to taste. 

_Mode_. --Mix the sugar and cream together; dredge in the flour, with asmuch honey as will flavour the mixture nicely; stir it well, that allthe ingredients may be thoroughly mixed; add the carbonate of soda, andbeat the cake well for another 5 minutes; put it into a buttered tin, bake it from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, and let it be eaten warm. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

RICH SWEETMEAT GINGERBREAD NUTS. 

1759. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of treacle, 1/4 lb. Of clarified butter, 1 lb. Of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. Of ground ginger, 1 oz. Of candiedorange-peel, 1 oz. Of candied angelica, 1/2 oz. Of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 oz. Of coriander seeds, 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds, 1 egg; flour. 

_Mode_. --Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter, melted so as not to oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these ingredientswell together, and whilst mixing, add the candied peel, which should becut into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway andcoriander seeds, which should be pounded. Having mixed all thoroughlytogether, break in an egg, and work the whole up with as much fine flouras may be necessary to form a paste. Make this into nuts of any size, put them on a tin plate, and bake in a slow oven from 1/4 to 1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1/4 to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 4d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

THICK GINGERBREAD. 

1760. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of treacle, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Ofcoarse brown sugar, 1-1/2 lb. Of flour, 1 oz. Of ginger, 1/2 oz. Ofground allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1/4 pint of warmmilk, 3 eggs. 

[Illustration: GINGERBREAD. ]

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, andallspice; mix these together; warm the butter, and add it, with thetreacle, to the other ingredients. Stir well; make the milk just warm, dissolve the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the whole into a nicesmooth dough with the eggs, which should be previously well whisked;pour the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from 3/4 to 1 hour, orlonger, should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before it is done, brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk, and put it back in the oven to finish baking. 

_Time_. --3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. Per square. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SUNDERLAND GINGERBREAD NUTS. 

(_An Excellent Recipe_. )

1761. INGREDIENTS. --1-3/4 lb. Treacle, 1 lb. Of moist sugar, 1 lb. Ofbutter, 2-3/4 lbs. Of flour, 1-1/2 oz. Of ground ginger, 1-1/2 oz. Ofallspice, 1-1/2 oz. Of coriander seeds. 

_Mode_. --Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshlyground; put them into a basin, with the flour and sugar, and mix theseingredients well together; warm the treacle and butter together; thenwith a spoon work it into the flour, &c. , until the whole forms a nicesmooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of butteredpaper, and bake in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Alittle candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an improvement, and agreat authority in culinary matters suggests the addition of a littlecayenne pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be advisable to use thislatter ingredient or not, we leave our readers to decide. 

_Time_. --20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. To 1s. 4d. Per lb. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

WHITE GINGERBREAD. 

1762. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of loafsugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. Of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, 1/2teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of milk. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, which should befinely pounded and sifted, and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, andnutmeg. Mix these well together; make the milk just warm, stir in thesoda, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste; roll it out, cut itinto cakes, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

GOOD HOLIDAY CAKE. 

1763. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2d. Worth of Borwick's German baking-powder, 2lbs. Of flour, 6 oz. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of lard, 1 lb. Of currants, 1/2lb. Of stoned and cut raisins, 1/4 lb. Of mixed candied peel, 1/2 lb. Ofmoist sugar, 3 eggs, 3/4 pint of cold milk. 

_Mode_. --Mix the baking-powder with the flour; then rub in the butterand lard; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried the raisinsstoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel cut intoneat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, &c. , and mix all thedry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the milk, and with this liquid moisten the cake; beat it up well, that all may bevery thoroughly mixed; line a cake-tin with buttered paper, put in thecake, and bake it from 2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours in a good oven. To ascertainwhen it is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, and if, onwithdrawing it, the knife looks clean, and not sticky, the cake is done. To prevent its burning at the top, a piece of clean paper may be putover whilst the cake is soaking, or being thoroughly cooked in themiddle. A steamer, such as is used for steaming potatoes, makes a verygood cake-tin, if it be lined at the bottom and sides with butteredpaper. 

_Time_. --2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMON CAKE. 

1764. INGREDIENTS. --10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, 3/4 lb. Of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon, 3/4 lb. Of flour. 

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD. ]

_Mode_. --Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs whisk the formerto a stiff froth; add the orange-flower water, the sugar, gratedlemon-rind, and mix these ingredients well together. Then beat the yolksof the eggs, and add them, with the lemon-juice, to the whites, &c. ;dredge in the flour gradually; keep beating the mixture well; put itinto a buttered mould, and bake the cake about an hour, or ratherlonger. The addition of a little butter, beaten to a cream, we think, would improve this cake. 

_Time_. --About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LUNCHEON CAKE. 

1765. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of butter, 1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 oz. Ofcaraway seeds, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 6 oz. Of moist sugar, 1 oz. Ofcandied peel, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonateof soda. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine; add thecaraway seeds, currants (which should be nicely washed, picked, anddried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices; mix these welltogether, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well whisked. Boilthe milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, the carbonate of soda, whichmust be well stirred into it, and, with the milk, mix the otheringredients. Butter a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it in amoderate oven from 3/4 to 1 hour. 

_Time_. --1 to 14 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

 CARBONATE OF SODA--Soda was called the mineral alkali, because it was originally dug up out of the ground in Africa and other countries: this state of carbonate of soda is called _natron. _ But carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion of marine plants, or such as grow on the sea-shore. Pure carbonate of soda is employed for making effervescing draughts, with lemon-juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The chief constituent of soda, the alkali, has been used in France from time immemorial in the manufacture of soap and glass, two chemical productions which employ and keep in circulation an immense amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda will give an extraordinary lightness to puff pastes; and, introduced into the teapot, will extract the full strength of the tea. But its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate constitutions, and it is not to be used incautiously in any preparation. 

A NICE PLAIN CAKE. 

1766. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1 teaspoonful of Borwick'sbaking-powder, 1/4 lb. Of good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 3eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. Of caraway seeds, 1/2 lb. Ofcurrants. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin; stir thosetogether; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds, andcurrants; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together verythoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin, put inthe cake, and bake it from 11/2 to 2 hours. Let the dripping be quiteclean before using: to insure this, it is a good plan to clarify it. Beef dripping is better than any other for cakes, &c. , as muttondripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would beimparted to the preparation. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

A NICE PLAIN CAKE FOR CHILDREN. 

1767. INGREDIENTS. --1 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. Of butter or good beef dripping, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 1/2 gratednutmeg or 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds. 

_Mode_. --If you are not in the habit of making bread at home, procurethe dough from the baker's, and, as soon as it comes in, put it into abasin near the fire; cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let thedough remain a little while to rise. In the mean time, beat the butterto a cream, and make the milk warm; and when the dough has risen, mixwith it thoroughly all the above ingredients, and knead the cake wellfor a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand themin a warm place, to allow the dough to rise again. When the tins arethree parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from13/4 to 2 hours. A few currants might be substituted for the carawayseeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked. 

_Time_. --1-3/4 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, _1s. 2d. _

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

COMMON PLUM CAKE. 

1768. INGREDIENTS. --3 lbs. Of flour, 6 oz. Of butter or good dripping, 6oz. Of moist sugar, 6 oz. Of currants, 4 oz. Of pounded allspice, 2tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, 1 pint of new milk. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, andallspice; warm the milk, stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole into adough; knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered tins; place them nearthe fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise, then bake the cakesin a good oven from 1 to 11/4 hour. To ascertain when they are done, plunge a clean knife into the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes outclean, the cakes are done. 

_Time_. --1 to 1-1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 6 small cakes. 

A NICE PLUM CAKE. 

1769. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Of sugar, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 2 oz. Of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 pint of milk, 1teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, currants, and slicedcandied peel; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these ingredientstogether with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 tablespoonfuls of milkand add it to the dough, and beat the whole well, until everything isthoroughly mixed. Put the dough into a buttered tin, and bake the cakefrom 1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

POUND CAKE. 

[Illustration: POUND CAKE. ]

1770. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of butter, 1-1/4 lb. Of flour, 1 lb. Ofpounded loaf sugar, 1 lb. Of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. Of candied peel, 1/2 oz. Of citron, 1/2 oz. Of sweet almonds; when liked, a littlepounded mace. 

_Mode_. --Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, currants, candied peel, which should be cut into neat slices, and thealmonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and mix all these welltogether; whisk the eggs, and let them be thoroughly blended with thedry ingredients. Beat the cake well for 20 minutes, and put it into around tin, lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white butteredpaper. Bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, and let the oven be well heatedwhen the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currantswill all sink to the bottom of it. To make this preparation light, theyolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and addedseparately to the other ingredients. A glass of wine is sometimes addedto the mixture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will befound quite rich enough without it. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. 

_Sufficient. _--The above quantity divided in two will make twonice-sized cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

A PAVINI CAKE. 

1771. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of ground rice, 1/2 lb. Ofraisins stoned and cut into small pieces, 1/4 lb. Of currants, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 oz. Of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. Of sifted loaf sugar, 1/2nutmeg grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces; wash, pick, anddry the currants; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling it;blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all theseingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together; make the milkwarm, stir in the soda, and with this liquid make the whole into apaste. Butter a mould, rather more than half fill it with the dough, andbake the cake in a moderate oven from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or less timeshould it be made into 2 cakes. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD. ]

RICE CAKE. 

1772. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of ground rice, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Ofloaf sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of essence of lemon, or the rind of 1lemon, 1/4 lb. Of butter. 

_Mode_. --Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs; whisk them bothwell, and add to the latter the butter beaten to a cream. Stir in theflour, rice, and lemon (if the rind is used, it must be very finelyminced), and beat the mixture well; then add the whites of the eggs, beat the cake again for some time, put it into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it for nearly 1-1/2 hour. It may be flavoured with essence ofalmonds, when this is preferred. 

_Time_. --Nearly 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

QUEEN-CAKES. 

1773. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 lb. Ofpounded loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon, or almonds to taste. 

_Mode_. --Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour, add the sugarand currants, and mix the ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, mixthem with the cream and flavouring, and stir these to the flour; add thecarbonate of soda, beat the paste well for 10 minutes, put it into smallbuttered pans, and bake the cake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour. 

Grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almondflavouring, which will make the cakes equally nice. 

_Time_. 1/4 to 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SAUCER-CAKE FOR TEA. 

1774. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4lb. Of pounded white sugar, 1/4 lb. Of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. Of candiedorange or lemon-peel. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour and _tous-les-mois_ together; add the sugar, thecandied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and theeggs well whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it into abuttered cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-plateanswers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake the cakein a moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, and when cold, put it away in acovered canister. It will remain good some weeks, even if it be cut intoslices. 

_Time_. --1 to 1-1/4 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

COMMON SEED-CAKE. 

1775. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. Of good dripping, 6oz. Of moist sugar, 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds, 1 egg. 

_Mode_. --If the dough is sent in from the baker's, put it in a basincovered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with awooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid; add it, with the otheringredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is verythoroughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake forrather more than 2 hours. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 2 hours. 

_Average cost_, 8d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

A VERY GOOD SEED-CAKE. 

1776. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of butter, 6 eggs, 3/4 lb. Of sifted sugar, pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. Of flour, 3/4 oz. Ofcaraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients welltogether. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat the cakeagain for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, andbake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. This cake would be equally nice made withcurrants, and omitting the caraway seeds. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

 BREAD-MAKING IN SPAIN. --The bread in the south of Spain is delicious: it is white as snow, close as cake, and yet very light; the flavour is most admirable, for the wheat is good and pure, and the bread well kneaded. The way they make this bread is as follows:--From large round panniers filled with wheat they take out a handful at a time, sorting it most carefully and expeditiously, and throwing every defective grain into another basket. This done, the wheat is ground between two circular stones, as it was ground in Egypt 2, 000 years ago (see No. 117), the requisite rotary motion being given by a blindfolded mule, which paces round and round with untiring patience, a bell being attached to his neck, which, as long as he is in movement, tinkles on; and when it stops, he is urged to his duty by the shout of "_Arre, mula_, " from some one within hearing. When ground, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, the last of these being so fine that only the pure flour can pass through it: this is of a pale apricot-colour. The bread is made in the evening. It is mixed with only sufficient water, with a little salt in it, to make it into dough: a very small quantity of leaven, or fermenting mixture is added. The Scripture says, "A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;" but in England, to avoid the trouble of kneading, many put as much leaven or yeast in one batch of household bread as in Spain would last them a week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they send every night from their oven. The dough made, it is put into sacks, and carried on the donkeys' backs to the oven in the centre of the village, so as to bake it immediately it is kneaded. On arriving there, the dough is divided into portions weighing 3 lbs. Each. Two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down the room; and now a curious sight may be seen. About twenty men (bakers) come in and range themselves on one side of the tables. A lump of dough is handed to the nearest, which he commences kneading and knocking about with all his might for about 3 or 4 minutes, and then passes it on to his neighbour, who does the same; and so on successively until all have kneaded it, when it becomes as soft as new putty, and ready for the oven. Of course, as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his neighbour, another is given to him, and so on till the whole quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them all. The bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, and some of them are very small, and they are baked immediately. The ovens are very large, and not heated by fires _under_ them; but a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and thyme, which cover the hills in great profusion, are put in the oven and ignited. They heat the oven to any extent required; and, as the bread gets baked, the oven gets gradually colder; so the bread is never burned. They knead the bread in Spain with such force, that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the fingers of the bakers are covered with corns; and it so affects the chest, that they cannot work more than two hours at a time. 

SNOW-CAKE. 

1777. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of _tous-les-mois_, 1/4 lb. Of white poundedsugar, 1/4 lb. Of fresh or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1lemon. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; then add the egg, previously wellbeaten, and then the other ingredients; if the mixture is not light, addanother egg, and beat for 1/4 hour, until it turns white and light. Linea flat tin, with raised edges, with a sheet of buttered paper; pour inthe cake, and put it into the oven. It must be rather slow, and the cakenot allowed to brown at all. If the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1-1/4hour will be found long enough to bake it. Let it cool a few minutes, then with a clean sharp knife cut it into small square pieces, whichshould be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool before puttingaway. This will keep for several weeks. 

_Time_. --1 to 1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SNOW-CAKE. 

(_A genuine Scotch Recipe_. )

1778. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. Of pounded white sugar, 1/2 lb. Of butter, the whites of 6 eggs; flavouring to taste, of essenceof almonds, or vanilla, or lemon. 

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and arrowrootgradually, at the same time beating the mixture. Whisk the whites of theeggs to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients, and beat wellfor 20 minutes. Put in whichever of the above flavourings may bepreferred; pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin and bake it in amoderate oven from 1 to 1-1/2 hour. 

_Time_. --1 to 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4s. 6d. ; with St. Vincent ditto, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to make a moderate-sized cake. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

SCRAP-CAKES. 

1779. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of leaf, or the inside fat of a pig; 1-1/2lb. Of flour, 1/4 lb. Of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. Of currants, 1 oz. Ofcandied lemon-peel, ground allspice to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the leaf, or flead, as it is sometimes called, into smallpieces; put it into a large dish, which place in a quick oven; becareful that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced tooil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface; and it is ofthese that the cakes should be made. Gather all the scraps together, putthem into a basin with the flour, and rub them well together. Add thecurrants, sugar, candied peel, cut into thin slices, and the groundallspice. When all these ingredients are well mixed, moisten withsufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste; roll it outthin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven from 15 to20 minutes. These are very economical and wholesome cakes for children, and the lard, melted at home, produced from the flead, is generallybetter than that you purchase. To prevent the lard from burning, and toinsure its being a good colour, it is better to melt it in a jar placedin a saucepan of boiling water; by doing it in this manner, there willbe no chance of its discolouring. 

_Time_. --15 to 20 minutes. 

_Sufficient_ to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes. 

_Seasonable_ from September to March. 

[Illustration: WHEAT. ]

 Wheat is liable to several diseases, which affect the flour made from it, and render it unfit for good bread. The principal of these are the blight, mildew, and smut, which are occasioned by microscopic fungi, which sow themselves and grow upon the stems and ears, destroying the nutritive principles, and introducing matter of a deleterious kind. The farmer is at the utmost pains to keep away these intruders. Wheat, as well as all kinds of corn, is also very liable to be injured by being stacked before it is quite dry; in which case it will heat, and become musty in the ricks. In wet harvests it is sometimes impossible to get it sufficiently dried, and a great deal of corn is thus often spoiled. It is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is made from wheat threshed out before it is stacked; which shows the importance of studying the best modes of preserving it. 

 The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn: some say it is Egypt, others Tartary; and the learned Bailly, as well as the traveller Pallas, affirms that it grows spontaneously in Siberia. Be that as it may, the Phocians brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had penetrated into Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar: they did not know, for a long time, how to make fermented bread. 

SCOTCH SHORTBREAD. 

1780. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of flour, 1 lb. Of butter, 1/4 lb. Of poundedloaf sugar, 1/2 oz. Of caraway seeds, 1 oz. Of sweet almonds, a fewstrips of candied orange-peel. 

[Illustration: SHORTBREAD. ]

_Mode_. --Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour, andadd the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should beblanched and cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quitesmooth, and divide it into six pieces. Put each cake on a separate pieceof paper, roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch, and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament with one or twostrips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a good oven, and bakethem from 25 to 30 minutes. 

_Time_. --25 to 30 minutes. 

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 6 cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked, omit them, and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel. 

SODA-CAKE. 

1781. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of butter, 1 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Ofcurrants, 1/2 lb. Of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar, andmix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs well, stir them tothe flour, &c. , with the milk, in which the soda should be previouslydissolved, and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon or beater. Divide the dough into two pieces, put them into buttered moulds orcake-tins, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour. The mixturemust be extremely well beaten up, and not allowed to stand after thesoda is added to it, but must be placed in the oven immediately. Greatcare must also be taken that the cakes are quite done through, which maybe ascertained by thrusting a knife into the middle of them: if theblade looks bright when withdrawn, they are done. If the tops acquiretoo much colour before the inside is sufficiently baked, cover them overwith a piece of clean white paper, to prevent them from burning. 

_Time_. --1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 small cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SAVOY CAKE. 

1782. INGREDIENTS. --The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, theweight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds, or orange-flower water. 

_Mode_. --Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and thewhites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar, thegrated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste; beat them welltogether, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth. Put in theflour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for 1/4 hour, butter amould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. This is avery nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for a supper-table, or cutinto slices and spread with jam, which converts it into sandwiches. 

_Time_. --1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 cake. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

SPONGE-CAKE. 

I. 

[Illustration: SPONGE-CAKE. ]

1783. INGREDIENTS. --The weight of 8 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, theweight of 5 in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight of8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the weight of 5 in good _dry_ flour. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former, putthem into a saucepan with the sugar, and let them remain over the fireuntil _milk-warm, _ keeping them well stirred. Then put them into abasin, add the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy, and stir thesewell together, dredging in the flour very gradually. Whisk the whites ofthe eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them to the flour, &c. , and beatthe cake well for 1/4 hour. Put it into a buttered mould strewn with alittle fine sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a quick oven for 1-1/2hour. Care must be taken that it is put into the oven immediately, or itwill not be light. The flavouring of this cake may be varied by adding afew drops of essence of almonds instead of the grated lemon-rind. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 cake. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WHEAT. ]

 The Egyptian, or Mummy Wheat, is not grown to any great extent, owing to its inferior quality; but it is notable for its large produce, and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and on small farms, where quantity rather than quality is desired. At Wix, in Essex, the seed of this wheat has produced, without artificial assistance, four thousandfold; some of the ears have had eleven offshoots, and have contained, altogether, eleven grains in one ear. 

II. 

1784. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of loaf sugar, not quite 1/4 pint of water, 5 eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/4 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together until they form a thicksyrup; let it cool a little, then pour it to the eggs, which should bepreviously well whisked; and after the eggs and syrup are mixedtogether, continue beating them for a few minutes. Grate the lemon-rind, mix the carbonate of soda with the flour, and stir these lightly to theother ingredients; then add the lemon-juice, and, when the whole isthoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, and bake in rather aquick oven for rather more than 1 hour. The remains of sponge or Savoycakes answer very well for trifles, light puddings, &c. ; and a verystale one (if not mouldy) makes an excellent tipsy-cake. 

_Time_. --Rather more than 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1 cake. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE SMALL SPONGE-CAKES. 

1785. INGREDIENTS. --The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of 8 inpounded loaf sugar; flavouring to taste. 

_Mode_. --Let the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar well pounded andsifted. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and beat thelatter up with the sugar; then whisk the whites until they become ratherstiff, and mix them with the yolks, but do not stir them more than isjust necessary to mingle the ingredients well together. Dredge in theflour by degrees, add the flavouring; batter the tins well, pour in thebatter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake them in rather aquick oven, but do not allow them to take too much colour, as theyshould be rather pale. Remove them from the tins before they get cold, and turn them on their faces, where let them remain until quite cold, when store them away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glassbottle. 

_Time_. --10 to 15 minutes in a quick oven. 

_Average cost_, 1d. Each. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TEA-CAKES. 

1786. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 lb. Ofbutter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size of a walnut, warm milk. 

_Mode_. --Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin mixwith it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard; then beat the egg well, stir to it the yeast, and add these to the flour with as much warm milkas will make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well. Let itrise near the fire, and, when well risen, form it into cakes; place themon tins, let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them intothe oven, and bake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour in a moderate oven. These arevery nice with a few currants and a little sugar added to the otheringredients: they should be put in after the butter is rubbed in. Thesecakes should be buttered, and eaten hot as soon as baked; but, whenstale, they are very nice split and toasted; or, if dipped in milk, oreven water, and covered with a basin in the oven till hot, they will bealmost equal to new. 

_Time_. --1/4 to 1/2 hour. 

_Average cost_, 10d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 8 tea-cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO TOAST TEA-CAKES. 

[Illustration: TEA-CAKES. ]

1787. Cut each tea-cake into three or four slices, according to itsthickness; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and aseach slice is done, spread it with butter on both sides. When a cake istoasted, pile the slices one on the top of the other, cut them intoquarters, put them on a very hot plate, and send the cakes immediatelyto table. As they are wanted, send them in hot, one or two at a time, as, if allowed to stand, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin-plate overa basin of boiling water. 

A NICE YEAST-CAKE. 

1788. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of flour, 1/2 lb. Of butter, 1/2 pint ofmilk, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of good yeast, 3 eggs, 3/4 lb. Of currants, 1/2 lb. Of white moist sugar, 2 oz. Of candied peel. 

_Mode_. --Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and shake it roundover a fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk to getvery hot. Put the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk and butter, the yeast, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and form the wholeinto a smooth dough. Let it stand in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the currants, sugar, andcandied peel cut into thin slices. When all the ingredients arethoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper, which should be about six inches higher than the tin; pour in themixture, let it stand to rise again for another 1/2 hour, and then bakethe cakes in a brisk oven for about 1-1/2 hour. If the tops of thembecome too brown, cover them with paper until they are done through. Afew drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated nutmeg, may be addedwhen the flavour is liked. 

_Time_. --From 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 moderate-sized cakes. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES. 

1789. Beverages are innumerable in their variety; but the ordinarybeverages drunk in the British isles, may be divided into threeclasses:--1. Beverages of the simplest kind not fermented. 2. Beverages, consisting of water, containing a considerable quantity of carbonicacid. 3. Beverages composed partly of fermented liquors. Of the firstclass may be mentioned, --water, toast-and-water, barley-water, eausucré, lait sucré, cheese and milk whey, milk-and-water, lemonade, orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar-and-water, raspberry vinegar and water. 

1790. Of the common class of beverages, consisting of water impregnatedwith carbonic acid gas, we may name soda-water, single and double, ordinary effervescing draughts, and ginger-beer. 

1791. The beverages composed partly of fermented liquors, are hot spicedwines, bishop, egg-flip, egg-hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, andspirits-and-water. 

1792. We will, however, forthwith treat on the most popular of ourbeverages, beginning with the one which makes "the cup that cheers butnot inebriates. "

1793. The beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life. Previous to the middle of the 17th century it was not used in England, and it was wholly unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys says, in hisDiary, --"September 25th, 1661. --I sent for a cup of tea (a China drink), of which I had never drunk before. " Two years later it was so rare acommodity in England, that the English East-India Company bought 2 lbs. 2 oz. Of it, as a present for his majesty. In 1666 it was sold in Londonfor sixty shillings a pound. From that date the consumption has gone onincreasing from 5, 000 lbs. To 50, 000, 000 lbs. 

1794. Linnaeus was induced to think that there were two species oftea-plant, one of which produced the black, and the other the greenteas; but later observations do not confirm this. When the leaves ofblack and green tea are expanded by hot water, and examined by thebotanist, though a difference of character is perceived, yet this is notsufficient to authorize considering them as distinct species. Thetea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions; in China it isindigenous. The part of China where the best tea is cultivated, iscalled by us the "tea country. " The cultivation of the plant requiresgreat care. It is raised chiefly on the sides of hills; and, in order toincrease the quantity and improve the quality of the leaves, the shrubis pruned, so as not to exceed the height of from two to three feet, much in the same manner as the vine is treated in France. They pluck theleaves, one selecting them according to the kinds of tea required; and, notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation, each labourer is ableto gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day. When the treesattain to six or seven years of age, the produce becomes so inferiorthat they are removed to make room for a fresh succession, or they arecut down to allow of numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavourconsist of the youngest leaves; and as these are gathered at fourdifferent periods of the year, the younger the leaves the higherflavoured the tea, and the scarcer, and consequently the dearer, thearticle. 

1795. The various names by which teas are sold in the British market arecorruptions of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different kinds;but the principal are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, and signify, respectively, inferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often perfumedand flavoured with the leaves of different kinds of plants grown onpurpose. Different tea-farms in China produce teas of various qualities, raised by skilful cultivation on various soils. 

1796. Tea, when chemically analyzed, is found to contain woody fibre, mucilage, a considerable quantity of the astringent principle, ortannin, a narcotic principle, which is, perhaps, connected with apeculiar aroma. The tannin is shown by its striking a black colour withsulphate of iron, and is the cause of the dark stain which is alwaysformed when tea is spilt upon buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron. Aconstituent called _Theine_ has also been discovered in tea, supposed tobe identical with _Caffeine_, one of the constituents of coffee. Liebigsays, "Theine yields, in certain processes of decomposition, a series ofmost remarkable products, which have much analogy with those derivedfrom uric acid in similar circumstances. The infusion of tea differsfrom that of coffee, by containing iron and manganese. We have in tea, of many kinds, a beverage which contains the active constituents of themost powerful mineral springs, and, however small the amount of iron maybe which we daily take in this form, it cannot be destitute of influenceon the vital processes. "

1797. Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country, bythe admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of thesloe, white thorn, ash, elder, and some others, have been employed forthis purpose; such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander, blackcurrants, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweet-brier, andcherry-tree. Some of these are harmless, others are to a certain degreepoisonous; as, for example, are the leaves of all the varieties of theplum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe belongs. Adulteration by meansof these leaves is by no means a new species of fraud; and several actsof parliament, from the time of George II. , have been passed, specifyingsevere penalties against those guilty of the offence, which, notwithstanding numerous convictions, continues to the present time. 

1798. In the purchase of tea, that should be chosen which possesses anagreeable odour and is as whole as possible, in order that the leaf maybe easily examined. The greatest care should be taken that it has notbeen exposed to the air, which destroys its flavour. 

1799. It would be impossible, in the space at our command, to enumeratethe various modes adopted in different countries for "making coffee;"that is, the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparationof this delicious beverage for drinking. For performing this operation, such recipes or methods as we have found most practical will be insertedin their proper place; but the following facts connected with coffeewill be found highly interesting. 

1800. The introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively ofrecent date. We are assured by Bruce that the coffee-tree is a native ofAbyssinia, and it is said to have been cultivated in that country fromtime immemorial. 

1801. It appears that coffee was first introduced into England by DanielEdwards, a Turkey merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek, understoodthe manner of roasting it. This servant, under the patronage of Edwards, established the first coffee-house in London, in George Yard, LombardStreet. Coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound, and a dutywas soon afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon, when made into abeverage. In the course of two centuries, however, this berry, unknownoriginally as an article of food, except to some savage tribes on theconfines of Abyssinia, has made its way through the whole of thecivilized world. Mahommedans of all ranks drink coffee twice a day; itis in universal request in France; and the demand for it throughout theBritish isles is daily increasing, the more especially since so muchattention has been given to mechanical contrivances for roasting andgrinding the berry and preparing the beverage. 

1802. Of the various kinds of coffee the Arabian is considered the best. It is grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha; whence the nameof our Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean thanany other, and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste. The next inreputation and quality is the Java and Ceylon coffee, and then thecoffees of Bourbon and Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district ofthe colony of British Guiana. The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees areless esteemed. 

1803. A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of theconstituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it. Independently of one of the objects of roasting, namely, that ofdestroying its toughness and rendering it easily ground, its tannin andother principles are rendered partly soluble in water; and it is to thetannin that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing. Anaromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction, which is notperceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the greatestperfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree oftemperature; but, if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour isagain dissipated, and little remains but a bitter and astringent matterwith carbon. 

1804. The roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety, and much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation. The roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has nowbecome a separate branch of business, and some of the roasters performthe operation on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffeeloses from 20 to 30 per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powdersuffers much by exposure to the air; but, while raw, it not only doesnot lose its flavour for a year or two, but improves by keeping. If acup of the best coffee be placed upon a table boiling hot, it will fillthe room with its fragrance; but the coffee, when warmed again afterbeing cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour. 

1805. To have coffee in perfection, it should be roasted and ground justbefore it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than iswanted for immediate use, or, if it be necessary to grind more, itshould be kept closed from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalationsfrom other substances, and thus often acquires a bad flavour: brownsugar placed near it will communicate a disagreeable flavour. It isstated that the coffee in the West Indies has often been injured bybeing laid in rooms near the sugar-works, or where rum is distilled; andthe same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the sameships with rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags ofpepper, on board a ship from India, spoiled a whole cargo of coffee. 

1806. With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making thedecoction, much depends upon the taste of the consumer. The greatest andmost common fault in English coffee is the too small quantity of theingredient. Count Rumford says that to make good coffee for drinkingafter dinner, a pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted andground, weighs only thirteen ounces, serves to make fifty-six full cups, or a little less than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderatesize. 

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE. 

1807. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 1/2 oz. Of chocolate to each person; to everyoz. Allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate into it, andstir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate isdissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well, and servedirectly with white sugar. Chocolate prepared with in a mill, as shownin the engraving, is made by putting in the scraped chocolate, pouringover it the boiling milk-and-water, and milling it over the fire untilhot and frothy. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1/2 oz. Of cake chocolate to each person. 

[Illustration: MILL. ]

 CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. --Both these preparations are made from the seeds or beans of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies and South America. The Spanish, and the proper name, is cacao, not cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the tree from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the produce of the cocoa-tree (_Cocos nucifera_), whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different (the _Theobroma cacao_). The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitants of South America, particularly in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma. It was transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish monarchy in 1520; and it was so highly esteemed by Linnaeus receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of Theobroma, a term derived from the Greek, and signifying "_food for gods_. " Chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered here as a great luxury when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the high duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to the wealthier classes. Before it was subjected to duty, Mr. Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin. The removal of this duty has increased their cultivation. (For engraving of cocoa-bean, _see_ No. 1816. )

TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE. 

1808. INGREDIENTS. --To every 1/4 lb. Of ground coffee allow 1 smallteaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshlyroasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and pour_slowly_ over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it has allfiltered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to thesimmering-point, but do not allow it to boil; then filter it a secondtime, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it willremain good for several days. Two tablespoonfuls of this essence arequite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. This essence willbe found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremelyearly; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily andquickly prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3tea-cupfuls of _boiling_ water slowly on the grounds, which, whenfiltered through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time there isessence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it onthe ground coffee instead of plain water: by this means a better coffeewill be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having made useof them in this manner; and always cork the bottle well that containsthis preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the freshessence. 

_Time_. --To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, andfiltered again. 

_Average cost_, with coffee at 1s. 8d. Per lb. , 6d. 

_Sufficient'_-Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. 

TO ROAST COFFEE. 

(_A French Recipe_. )

1809. It being an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedlysuperior to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is ofgreat importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be usefuland interesting to know how they manage these things in France. InParis, there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of theircoffee, --_La Maison Corcellet_ and _La Maison Royer de Chartres_; and toobtain this flavour, before roasting they add to every 3 lbs. Of coffeea piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-spoonful of powderedsugar: it is then roasted in the usual manner. The addition of thebutter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry; but itmust be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of thevery best description. 

TO MAKE COFFEE. 

1810. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 4 oz. , or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee toeach person; to every oz. Of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --To make coffee good, _it should never be boiled_, but theboiling water merely poured on it, the same as for tea. The coffeeshould always be purchased in the berry, --if possible, freshly roasted;and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use. Thereare very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making thecoffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water onthe powder, and allowing it to filter through. Our illustration showsone of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for makinggood and clear coffee, which should be made in the following, manner:--Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movablefilter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put themovable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on theend of the centre pipe. Pour into the inverted lid the above proportionof boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared fromthe funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again throughthe ground coffee by _hydrostatic pressure_, unscrew screw the lid andcover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, _not through the funnel_, one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolater, inorder to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will thenbe ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear. The coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good, and thereis but one objection to them, --the coffee runs rather slowly from thetap. This is of no consequence where there is a small party, but tediouswhere there are many persons to provide for. A remedy for this objectionmay be suggested; namely, to make the coffee very strong, so that notmore than 1/3 of a cup would be required, as the rest would be filled upwith milk. Making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with thenecessity of using isinglass, white of egg, and various otherpreparations to clear it. Coffee should always be served very hot, and, if possible, in the same vessel in which it is made, as pouring it fromone pot to another cools, and consequently spoils it. Many persons maythink that the proportion of water we have given for each oz. Of coffeeis rather small; it is so, and the coffee produced from it will be verystrong; 1/3 of a cup will be found quite sufficient, which should befilled with nice hot milk, or milk and cream mixed. This is the 'cafe aulait' for which our neighbours over the Channel are so justlycelebrated. Should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred, use double the quantity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, putin more coffee and less milk. 

[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN. ]

_Sufficient_. --For very good coffee, allow 1/2 oz. , or 1 tablespoonful, to each person. 

A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE. 

1811. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 1/2 oz. , or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to eachperson; to every oz. Allow 1 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-potinside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for thepurpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour someboiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the groundcoffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required, close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove thebag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner prevents thenecessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which coolsand spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, sothat the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, thatnone of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffeethick and muddy. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz. , to each person. 

[Illustration: COFFEE. ]

 THE COFFEE PLANT grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, although more pointed, and not so dry and thick. The blossoms are white, much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles of the leaf-stalks. When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by the coffee-bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red colour, when ripe resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days, that the pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They are then gradually dried for about three weeks, and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed. 

CAFE AU LAIT. 

1812. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion ofgood hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quitesufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence No. 1808, which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait', so much would not berequired. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak waterycoffee so often served at English tables. A little cream mixed with themilk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves thetaste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage. 

_Sufficient_. --6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls ofthe essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk. 

 TEA AND COFFEE. --It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee; and daily experience teaches us that, under certain circumstances, they may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal functions; but it is an error, certainly, to conclude from this that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their effects; and it is a question whether, if we had no tea and no coffee, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the means of replacing them. Science, which accuses us of so much in these respects, will have, in the first place, to ascertain whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely, that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means of acting on the nervous life, from the shore of the Pacific, where the Indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy the bliss of intoxication with koko, to the Arctic regions, where Kamtschatdales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating beverage from a poisonous mushroom. We think it, on the contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct of man, feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified life of our times, which cannot be satisfied or filled up by mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable life the true means of giving to his food the desired and necessary quality. 

CAFE NOIR. 

1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should be drunkwell sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs, whichmay be added or not at pleasure. The coffee should be made very strong, and served in very small cups, but never mixed with milk or cream. Cafenoir may be made of the essence of coffee No. 1808, by pouring atablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up with boiling water. Thisis a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a largeparty, but the essence for it must be made very good, and kept wellcorked until required for use. 

TO MAKE TEA. 

1814. There is very little art in making good tea; if the water isboiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage willalmost invariably be good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing ateaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised. Warm theteapot with boiling water; let it remain for two or three minutes forthe vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away. Put in the tea, pour in from 1/2 to 3/4 pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let itstand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the potwith water. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that isactually 'boiling', as the leaves will not open, and the flavour not beextracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colourless andtasteless, --in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where there is a verylarge party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have two teapotsinstead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot; the tea, besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been once completed, theaddition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength; so, when more isrequired, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh teamade in the usual manner. Economists say that a few grains of carbonateof soda, added before the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist todraw out the goodness: if the water is very hard, perhaps it is a goodplan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use thisingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste ifadded in too large a quantity. For mixed tea, the usual proportion isfour spoonfuls of black to one of green; more of the latter when theflavour is very much liked; but strong green tea is highly pernicious, and should never be partaken of too freely. 

_Time_. --2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to draw thestrength from the tea. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person, and one over. 

 TEA. --The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system, and to the natural order of Aurantiaceae in the system of Jussieu. Lately it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes the Camellia and some other plants. It commonly grows to the height of from three to six feet; but it is said, that, in its wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more. In China it is cultivated in numerous small plantations. In its general appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle. The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the wild rose, but smaller; and they are succeeded by soft green capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds. These capsules are crushed for oil, which is in general use in China. 

[Illustration: TEA. ]

AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM IN TEA OR COFFEE. 

1815. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupfulof tea or coffee. 

_Mode_. --Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup (ora portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea orcoffee very hot. These should be added very gradually, and stirred allthe time, to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourishment, both these beverages are much improved by this addition. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea orcoffee. 

TO MAKE COCOA. 

1816. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to 1breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water. 

[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN. ]

_Mode_. --Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficientcold milk to make it into a smooth paste; then add equal quantities ofboiling milk and boiling water, and stir all well together. Care must betaken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely spoil theflavour of the preparation. The above directions are usually given formaking the prepared cocoa. The rock cocoa, or that bought in a solidpiece, should be scraped, and made in the same manner, taking care torub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added. 

_Sufficient_--2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup, or1/4 oz. Of the rock cocoa for the same quantity. 

COWSLIP WINE. 

1817. INGREDIENTS. --To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs. Of lump sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of 1 Sevilleorange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips. To every 4-1/2 gallons of wine allow 1bottle of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together for 1/2 hour, carefullyremoving all the scum as it rises. Pour this boiling liquor on theorange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained; whenmilk-warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the stalks andseeds; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers'yeast. Let it ferment 3 or 4 days; then put all together in a cask withthe brandy, and let it remain for 2 months, when bottle it off for use. 

_Time_. --To be boiled 1/2 hour; to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in thecask 2 months. 

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in thefields, 2s. 9d. Per gallon. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in April or May. 

ELDER WINE. 

1818. INGREDIENTS. --To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck ofelderberries; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. Of sugar, 1/2 oz. Ofground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. Of good Turkey raisins; 1/2 pint ofbrandy to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast. 

_Mode_. --Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, whichshould be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for 24hours; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the fruitto express all the juice from it. Measure the liquor, and to everygallon allow the above proportion of sugar. Boil the juice and sugarwith the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquor thewhole time; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a clean drycask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallonsof wine. Let it ferment for about a fortnight; then add the brandy, bungup the cask, and let it stand some months before it is bottled, when itwill be found excellent. A bunch of hops suspended to a string from thebung, some persons say, will preserve the wine good for several years. Elder wine is usually mulled, and served with sippets of toasted breadand a little grated nutmeg. 

_Time_. --To stand covered 24 hours; to be boiled 1 hour. 

_Average cost_, when made at home, 3s. 6d. Per gallon. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in September. 

[Illustration: ELDER-BERRIES. ]

 ELDER-BERRY WINE. --The elder-berry is well adapted for the production of wine; its juice contains a considerable portion of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore demands an addition of sugar. It is one of the very best of the genuine old English wines; and a cup of it mulled, just previous to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a thing to be "run for, " as Cobbett would say: it is not, however, agreeable to every taste. 

GINGER WINE. 

1819. INGREDIENTS. --To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs. Of loaf sugar, 9lemons, 12 oz. Of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 lbs. Ofraisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be wellscoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, _lemon-rinds_, andbruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and when theliquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as itmust not remain in the copper. When nearly cold, add the yeast, whichmust be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all in a dry caskwith the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins. Stir the wine everyday for a fortnight; then add the brandy, stop the cask down by degrees, and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle. 

_Average cost_, 2s. Per gallon. _Sufficient_ to make 9 gallons of wine. 

_Seasonable_. --The best time for making this wine is either in March orSeptember. 

_Note_. --Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June. 

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. 

(_An Excellent Recipe_. )

1820. INGREDIENTS. --2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. Of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality. 

_Mode_. --Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tubwith a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; let this stand 24hours; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to it; mix itwell, and tun it. These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; and if itbe not quite full, more water must be added. Let the mixture be stirredfrom the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or fourdays, to assist the melting of the sugar; then paste a piece of linencloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, _but not inthe sun_; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it. Thefollowing spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and thevinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made. This will befound a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that issold under the name of the best white wine vinegar. Many years'experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, whenbought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon ismerely nominal, especially to those who reside in the country and growtheir own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient tobe purchased. 

_Time_. --To remain in the cask 9 months. 

_Average cost_, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, 1s. Pergallon; when they are grown at home, 6d. Per gallon. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made the end of June or the beginning ofJuly, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful. 

EFFERVESCING GOOSEBERRY WINE. 

1821. INGREDIENTS. --To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs. Of greengooseberries, 3 lbs. Of lump sugar. 

_Mode_. --This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in orderto avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in amature state. Its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling thanupon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be madefrom fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe. The fruitshould be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth, andconsequently before it shows any tendency to ripen. Any bruised ordecayed berries, and those that are very small, should be rejected. Theblossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised ina tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each berry being brokenwithout crushing the seeds. Pour the water (which should be warm) on thefruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removedfrom the skin and seeds, and cover the whole closely for 24 hours; afterwhich, strain it through a coarse bag, and press it with as much forceas can be conveniently applied, to extract the whole of the juice andliquor the fruit may contain. To every 40 or 50 lbs. Of fruit one gallonmore of hot water may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order toobtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed. Thejuice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain allof it, and the sugar added to it. Let it be well stirred until the sugaris dissolved, and place the pan in a warm situation; keep it closelycovered, and let it ferment for a day or two. It must then be drawn offinto clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that arisesto be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining "must, "that should be reserved for that purpose. When the active fermentationhas ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again filled, ifnecessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days, when thefermentation is a little more languid (which may be known, by thehissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and aspile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. About November or December, on a clear fine day, the wine should he racked from its lees into cleancasks, which may be rinsed with brandy. After a month, it should beexamined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, itmust be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of thewine: 1 oz. Will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In March or April, or whenthe gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled, inorder to insure its being effervescing. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before theberries ripen. 

LEMON SYRUP. 

1822. INGREDIENTS. --2 lbs. Of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. Ofcitric acid, 12 drachm of essence of lemon. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, and put it intoa basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid to apowder, mix the essence of lemon with it, then add these two ingredientsto the syrup; mix well, and bottle for use. Two tablespoonfuls of thesyrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be found avery refreshing summer drink. 

_Sufficient_--2 tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water. 

LEMON WINE. 

1823. INGREDIENTS. --To 4-1/2 gallons of water allow the pulp of 50lemons, the rind of 25, 16 lbs. Of loaf sugar, --1/2 oz. Of isinglass, 1bottle of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Peel and slice the lemons, but use only the rind of 25 of them, and put them into the cold water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days, squeezingthe lemons well every day; then strain the water off and put it into acask with the sugar. Let it work some time, and when it has ceasedworking, put in the isinglass. Stop the cask down; in about six monthsput in the brandy and bottle the wine off. 

_Seasonable_. --The best time to make this is in January or February, when lemons are best and cheapest. 

MALT WINE. 

1824. INGREDIENTS. --5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. Of sugar, 6 quarts ofsweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. Of raisins, 1/2 lb. Of candy, 1 pintof brandy. 

_Mode_. --Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well, and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool;then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it stand for 3 days, thenput it into a barrel; here it will work or ferment for another threedays or more; then bung up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3months. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, and, in 6 months' time, bottle the wine off. Those who do not brew, mayprocure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquorthat leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops; tun isthe new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has beencompleted. 

_Time_. --To be boiled 10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; toferment 3 days; to remain in the cask 2 mouths before the raisins areadded; bottle 6 months after. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in March or October. 

HOME-MADE NOYEAU. 

1825. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of bitter almonds, 1 oz. Of sweet ditto, 1 lb. Of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1tablespoonful of clarified honey, 4 pint of new milk. 

_Mode_. --Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the sugar, which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till quitecold; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain for 10days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper, bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks down. This willbe found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to make about 24 pints of Noyeau. 

_Seasonable_. --May be made at any time. 

ORANGE BRANDY. 

(_Excellent_. )

1826. INGREDIENTS. --To every 1 gallon of brandy allow 3/4 pint ofSeville orange-juice, 1-1/4 lb. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --To bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a fewlumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps to therest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, strained, the rinds of 6 ofthe oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in aclosely-covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day. When clear, it should be bottled and closely corked for a year; it willthen be ready for use, but will keep any length of time. This is a mostexcellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities; or, as thestrength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the otheringredients, it may be diluted with water. 

_Time_. --To be stirred every day for 3 days. 

_Average cost_, 7s. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts. _Seasonable_. --Make this in March. 

A VERY SIMPLE AND EASY METHOD OF MAKING A VERY SUPERIOR ORANGE WINE. 

1827. INGREDIENTS. --90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. Of lump sugar, water. 

_Mode_. --Break up the sugar into small pieces, and put it into a dry, sweet 9-gallon cask, placed in a cellar or other storehouse, where it isintended to be kept. Have ready close to the cask two large pans orwooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges paredquite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has beensqueezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of double muslin, andput it into the cask with the sugar. Then pour about 1-1/2 gallon ofcold spring water on both the peels and pulp; let it stand for 24 hours, and then strain it into the cask; add more water to the peels and pulpwhen this is done, and repeat the same process every day for a week: itshould take about a week to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportionthe quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days, and to stir thecontents of the cask each day. On the ''third' day after the cask isfull, --that is, the 'tenth' day after the commencement of making, --thecask may be securely bunged down. This is a very simple and easy method, and the wine made according to it will be pronounced to be mostexcellent. There is no troublesome boiling, and all fermentation takesplace in the cask. When the above directions are attended to, the winecannot fail to be good. It should be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and willbe fit for use in a twelve month after the time of making. Ginger winemay be made in precisely the same manner, only, with the 9-gallon caskfor ginger wine, 2 lbs. Of the best whole ginger, 'bruised', must be putwith the sugar. It will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely ina muslin bag. 

_Time_. --Altogether, 10 days to make it. 

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. Per gallon. _Sufficient_ for 9 gallons. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in March, and bottle it the following January. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

1828. INGREDIENTS. --To every 3 pints of the best vinegar allow 4-1/2pints of freshly-gathered raspberries; to each pint of liquor allow 1lb. Of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful of brandy. 

_Mode_. --Let the raspberries be freshly gathered; pick them from thestalks, and put 1-1/2 pint of them into a stone jar; pour 3 pints of thebest vinegar over them, and let them remain for 24 hours; then strainthe liquor over another 1-1/2 pint of fresh raspberries. Let them remainanother 24 hours, and the following day repeat the process for the thirdtime; then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through ajelly-bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar), into a stone jar. Addto every pint of the liquor 1 lb. Of pounded loaf sugar; stir themtogether, and, when the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar; set it uponthe fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil for an hour, removing the scum as fast as it rises; add to each pint a glass ofbrandy, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink incases of fevers and colds: it should be diluted with cold water, according to the taste or requirement of the patient. 

_Time_. --To be boiled 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 quarts. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July or August, when raspberries are mostplentiful. 

RHUBARB WINE. 

1829. INGREDIENTS. --To every 5 lbs. Of rhubarb pulp allow 1 gallon ofcold spring water; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 lbs. Of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. Of isinglass, the rind of 1 lemon. 

_Mode_. --Gather the rhubarb about the middle of May; wipe it with a wetcloth, and, with a mallet, bruise it in a large wooden tub or otherconvenient means. When reduced to a pulp, weigh it, and to every 5 lbs. Add 1 gallon of cold spring water; let these remain for 3 days, stirring3 or 4 times a day; and, on the fourth day, press the pulp through ahair sieve; put the liquor into a tub, and to every gallon put 3 lbs. Ofloaf sugar; stir in the sugar until it is quite dissolved, and add thelemon-rind; let the liquor remain, and, in 4, 5, or 6 days, thefermentation will begin to subside, and a crust or head will be formed, which should be skimmed off, or the liquor drawn from it, when the crustbegins to crack or separate. Put the wine into a cask, and if, afterthat, it ferments, rack it off into another cask, and in a fortnightstop it down. If the wine should have lost any of its originalsweetness, add a little more loaf sugar, taking care that the cask isfull. Bottle it off in February or March, and in the summer it should befit to drink. It will improve greatly by keeping; and, should a verybrilliant colour be desired, add a little currant-juice. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this about the middle of May. 

WELSH NECTAR. 

1830. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. Of loaf sugar, 2gallons of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the boilingwater, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, stirring it every day; then strain it through a jelly-bag, and bottle itfor present use. 

_Time_. --4 or 5 days. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2 gallons. 

CLARET-CUP. 

[Illustration: CLARET CUP. ]

1831. INGREDIENTS. --1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda-water, about1/2 lb. Of pounded ice, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1/4teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 liqueur-glass of Maraschino, a sprig ofgreen borage. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a silver cup, regulating theproportion of ice by the state of the weather: if very warm, a largerquantity would be necessary. Hand the cup round with a clean napkinpassed through one of the handles, that the edge of the cup may be wipedafter each guest has partaken of the contents thereof. 

_Seasonable_ in summer. 

 CLARETS. --All those wines called in England clarets are the produce of the country round Bordeaux, or the Bordelais; but it is remarkable that there is no pure wine in France known by the name of claret, which is a corruption of _clairet_, a term that is applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine. Round Bordeaux are produced a number of wines of the first quality, which pass under the name simply of _vins de Bordeaux_, or have the designation of the particular district where they are made; as Lafitte, Latour, &c. The clarets brought to the English market are frequently prepared for it by the wine-growers by mixing together several Bordeaux wines, or by adding to them a portion of some other wines; but in France the pure wines are carefully preserved distinct. The genuine wines of Bordeaux are of great variety, that part being one of the most distinguished in France; and the principal vineyards are those of Medoc, Palus, Graves, and Blanche, the product of each having characters considerably different. 

CHAMPAGNE-CUP. 

1832. INGREDIENTS. --1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles ofsoda-water, 1 liqueur-glass of brandy or Curaçoa, 2 tablespoonfuls ofpowdered sugar, 1 lb. Of pounded ice, a sprig of green borage. 

_Mode_. --Put all the ingredients into a silver cup; stir them together, and serve the same as claret-cup No. 1831. Should the above proportionof sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes, increase thequantity. When borage is not easily obtainable, substitute for it a fewslices of cucumber-rind. 

_Seasonable_. --Suitable for pic-nics, balls, weddings, and other festiveoccasions. 

 CHAMPAGNE. --This, the most celebrated of French wines, is the produce chiefly of the province of that name, and is generally understood in England to be a brisk, effervescing, or sparkling white wine, of a very fine flavour; but this is only one of the varieties of this class. There is both red and white champagne, and each of these may be either still or brisk. There are the sparkling wines (mousseux), and the still wines (non-mousseux). The brisk are in general the most highly esteemed, or, at least, are the most popular in this country, on account of their delicate flavour and the agreeable pungency which they derive from the carbonic acid they contain, and to which they owe their briskness. 

GINGER BEER. 

1833. INGREDIENTS. --2-1/2 lbs. Of loaf sugar, 1-1/2 oz. Of bruisedginger, 1 oz. Of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 3gallons of boiling water, 2 large tablespoonfuls of thick and freshbrewer's yeast. 

_Mode_. --Peel the lemons, squeeze the juice, strain it, and put the peeland juice into a large earthen pan, with the bruised ginger, cream oftartar, and loaf sugar. Pour over these ingredients 3 gallons of boilingwater; let it stand until just warm, when add the yeast, which should bethick and perfectly fresh. Stir the contents of the pan well, and letthem remain near the fire all night, covering the pan over with a cloth. The next day skim off the yeast, and pour the liquor carefully intoanother vessel, leaving the sediment; then bottle immediately, and tiethe corks down, and in 3 days the ginger beer will be fit for use. Forsome tastes, the above proportion of sugar may be found rather toolarge, when it may be diminished; but the beer will not keep so longgood. 

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. ; or 1/2d. Per bottle. 

_Sufficient_ to fill 4 dozen ginger-beer bottles. 

_Seasonable_. --This should be made during the summer months. 

LEMONADE. 

1834. INGREDIENTS--The rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or 4 smallones, 1 lb. Of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on 2 of the lemons until theyhave imbibed all the oil from them, and put it with the remainder of thesugar into a jug; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), and pour over thewhole a quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, strain thelemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and, when cool, itwill be ready for use. The lemonade will be much improved by having thewhite of an egg beaten up in it; a little sherry mixed with it, also, makes this beverage much nicer. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per quart. 

 LEMONADE--"There is a current opinion among women" says Brillat Savarin "which every year causes the death of many young women, --that acids, especially vinegar, are preventives of obesity. Beyond all doubt, acids have the effect of destroying obesity; but they also destroy health and freshness. Lemonade is, of all acids, the most harmless; but few stomachs can resist it long. I knew, in 1776, at Dijon, a young lady of great beauty, to whom I was attached by bonds of friendship, great, almost as those of love. One day, when she had for some time gradually grown pale and thin (previously she had a slight embonpoint), she told me in confidence, that as her young friends had ridiculed her for being fat, she had, to counteract the tendency, been in the habit every day of drinking a large glass of vinaigre. She died at eighteen years of age, from the effects of these potions. "

TO MAKE NEGUS. 

1835. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of boilingwater, 1/4 lb. Of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --As this beverage is more usually drunk at children's partiesthan at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for thepurpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine intoa jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to 1/4 lb. ) on the lemon-rinduntil all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze thejuice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port wine, with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug, and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use. Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine, but ismore usually made of port than of any other beverage. 

_Sufficient_--Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients inproportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children. 

A PLEASANT DRINK FOR WARM WEATHER. 

1836. INGREDIENTS. --To every 1-1/2 pint of good ale allow 1 bottle ofginger beer. _Mode_. --For this beverage the ginger beer must be in aneffervescing state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mixthem together, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing andwholesome, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does notdeteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when takenfresh. 

FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT. 

1837. INGREDIENTS. --The juice of 1 lemon, a tumbler-ful of cold water, pounded sugar to taste, 4 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. 

_Mode_. --Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain, and add it to thewater, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Whenwell mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the mixture isin an effervescing state. 

TO MULL WINE. 

1838. INGREDIENTS. --To every pint of wine allow 1 large cupful of water, sugar and spice to taste. 

_Mode_. --In making preparations like the above, it is very difficult togive the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice, as whatquantity might suit one person would be to another quite distasteful. Boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted, then add thewine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling-point, when servewith strips of crisp dry toast, or with biscuits. The spices usuallyused for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or mace. Any kind of wine may be mulled, but port and claret are those usuallyselected for the purpose; and the latter requires a very largeproportion of sugar. The vessel that the wine is boiled in must bedelicately clean, and should be kept exclusively for the purpose. Smalltin warmers may be purchased for a trifle, which are more suitable thansaucepans, as, if the latter are not scrupulously clean, they will spoilthe wine, by imparting to it a very disagreeable flavour. These warmersshould be used for no other purposes. 

TO MAKE HOT PUNCH. 

1839. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of rum, 1/2 pint of brandy, 1/4 lb. Ofsugar, 1 large lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boilingwater. 

[Illustration: PUNCH-BOWL AND LADLE. ]

_Mode_. --Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all theyellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punchbowl; add thelemon-juice (free from pips), and mix these two ingredients welltogether. Pour over them the boiling water, stir well together, add therum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch will be ready toserve. It is very important in making good punch that all theingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and, to insure success, theprocesses of mixing must be diligently attended to. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow a quart for 4 persons; but this information must betaken _cum grano salis_; for the capacities of persons for this kind ofbeverage are generally supposed to vary considerably. 

 PUNCH is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the acid juice of fruits, and sugar. It is considered to be very intoxicating; but this is probably because the spirit, being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the sugar, its strength does not appear to the taste so great as it really is. Punch, which was almost universally drunk among the middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has almost disappeared from our domestic tables, being superseded by wine. There are many different varieties of punch. It is sometimes kept cold in bottles, and makes a most agreeable summer drink. In Scotland, instead of the Madeira or sherry generally used in its manufacture, whiskey is substituted, and then its insidious properties are more than usually felt. Where fresh lemons cannot be had for punch or similar beverages, crystallized citric acid and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the same thing. In the composition of "Regent's punch, " champagne, brandy, and _veritable Martinique_ are required; "Norfolk punch" requires Seville oranges; "Milk punch" may be extemporized by adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it through a jelly-bag. Then there are "Wine punch, " "Tea punch, " and "French punch, " made with lemons, spirits, and wine, in fantastic proportions. But of all the compounds of these materials, perhaps, for a _summer_ drink, the North-American "mint julep" is the most inviting. Captain Marryat gives the following recipe for its preparation:--"Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint; upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and common brandy, so as to fill up one third, or, perhaps, a little less; then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple; and the tumbler itself is very often encrusted outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink. " The Virginians, say Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having invented this superb compound; but, from a passage in the "Comus" of Milton, he claims it for his own country. 

WHISKEY CORDIAL. 

1840. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of ripe white currants, the rind of 2 lemons, 1/4 oz. Of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. Of lump sugar. 

_Mode_. --Strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a large jug;add the lemon-rind, ginger, and whiskey; cover the jug closely, and letit remain covered for 24 hours. Strain through a hair sieve, add thelump sugar, and let it stand 12 hours longer; then bottle, and corkwell. 

_Time_. --To stand 24 hours before being strained; 12 hours after thesugar is added. 

_Seasonable_. --Make this in July. 

[Illustration]

INVALID COOKERY. 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 

1841. LET all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids'cookery be delicately and 'scrupulously clean;' if this is not the case, a disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation, which flavourmay disgust, and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshmentwhen brought to him or her. 

1842. For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as theyseldom require much at a time; and it is desirable that variety beprovided for them. 

1843. Always have something in readiness; a little beef tea, nicely madeand nicely skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c. &c. , that it may beadministered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it. If obliged towait a long time, the patient loses the desire to eat, and often turnsagainst the food when brought to him or her. 

1844. In sending dishes or preparations up to invalids, let everythinglook as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly overthe tray; let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c. , be very cleanand bright. Gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than whenserved in a basin or cup and saucer. 

1845. As milk is an important article of food for the sick, in warmweather let it be kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. Many otherdelicacies may also be preserved good in the same manner for some littletime. 

1846. If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, never send them upundercooked, or half raw; and let a small quantity only be temptinglyarranged on a dish. This rule will apply to every preparation, as aninvalid is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate piecesare served to him. 

1847. Never leave food about a sick room; if the patient cannot eat itwhen brought to him, take it away, and bring it to him in an hour ortwo's time. Miss Nightingale says, "To leave the patient's untasted foodby his side, from meal to meal, in hopes that he will eat it in theinterval, is simply to prevent him from taking any food at all. " Shesays, "I have known patients literally incapacitated from taking onearticle of food after another by this piece of ignorance. Let the foodcome at the right time, and be taken away, eaten or uneaten, at theright time, but never let a patient have 'something always standing' byhim, if you don't wish to disgust him of everything. "

1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the _smallest particle_ of fator grease on the surface. It is better, after making either of these, toallow them to get perfectly cold, when _all the fat_ may be easilyremoved; then warm up as much as may be required. Two or three pieces ofclean whity-brown paper laid on the broth will absorb any greasyparticles that may be floating at the top, as the grease will cling tothe paper. 

1849. Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves' feet or head, game, fish(simply dressed), and simple puddings, are all light food, and easilydigested. Of course, these things are only partaken of, supposing thepatient is recovering. 

1850. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, and broiled to a turn, is adish to be recommended for invalids; but it must not be served _with allthe fat_ at the end, nor must it be too thickly cut. Let it be cookedover a fire free from smoke, and sent up with the gravy in it, betweentwo very hot plates. Nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than_smoked_ food. 

1851. In making toast-and-water, never blacken the bread, but toast itonly a nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water to make until the momentit is required, as it cannot then be properly prepared, --at least, thepatient will be obliged to drink it warm, which is anything butagreeable. 

1852. In boiling eggs for invalids, let the white be just set; if boiledhard, they will be likely to disagree with the patient. 

1853. In Miss Nightingale's admirable "Notes on Nursing, " a book that nomother or nurse should be without, she says, --"You cannot be too carefulas to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put before a patientmilk that is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that is bad, orvegetables underdone. " Yet often, she says, she has seen these thingsbrought in to the sick, in a state perfectly perceptible to every noseor eye except the nurse's. It is here that the clever nurseappears, --she will not bring in the peccant article; but, not todisappoint the patient, she will whip up something else in a fewminutes. Remember, that sick cookery should half do the work of yourpoor patient's weak digestion. 

1854. She goes on to caution nurses, by saying, --"Take care not to spillinto your patient's saucer; in other words, take care that the outsidebottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time helifts his cup to his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or elseto drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow, or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a differencethis minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even tohis willingness for food. "

RECIPES. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

TO MAKE ARROWROOT. 

1855. INGREDIENTS. --Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoonfuls ofcold water, 1/2 pint of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water, thenpour on it the _boiling_ water, _stirring_ all the time. The water mustbe _boiling_ at the time it is poured on the mixture, or it will notthicken; if mixed with hot water only, it must be put into a cleansaucepan, and boiled until it thickens; but this is more trouble, andquite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowrootinto a tumbler, sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with gratednutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavourlessand insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make itpalatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer, butis not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner, with 3tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on it, andwell stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be added, butmerely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel. 

_Time_. --If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. _Average cost_, 2d. Perpint. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of arrowroot. 

 MISS NIGHTINGALE says, in her "Notes on Nursing, " that arrowroot is a grand dependence of the nurse. As a vehicle for wine, and as a restorative quickly prepared, it is all very well, but it is nothing but starch and water; flour is both more nutritive and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be used. 

BARLEY GRUEL. 

1856. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of Scotch or pearl barley, 1/2 pint of portwine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and 1/2 pint of water, sugar totaste. 

_Mode_. --After well washing the barley, boil it in 1/2 pint of water for1/4 hour; then pour this water away; put to the barley the quart offresh boiling water, and let it boil until the liquid is reduced tohalf; then strain it off. Add the wine, sugar, and lemon-peel; simmerfor 5 minutes, and put it away in a clean jug. It can be warmed fromtime to time, as required. 

_Time_. --To be boiled until reduced to half. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. 

_Sufficient_ with the wine to make 1-1/2 pint of gruel. 

TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER. 

1857. INGREDIENTS. --2 oz. Of pearl barley, 2 quarts of boiling water, 1pint of cold water. 

_Mode_. --Wash the barley in cold water; put it into a saucepan with theabove proportion of cold water, and when it has boiled for about 1/4hour, strain off the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling water. Boil it until the liquid is reduced one half; strain it, and it will beready for use. It may be flavoured with lemon-peel, after beingsweetened, or a small piece may be simmered with the barley. When theinvalid may take it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drink inillness a very nice flavour. 

_Time_. --To boil until the liquid is reduced one half. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1 quart of barley-water. 

TO MAKE BEEF TEA. 

1858. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water, 1saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nicefleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and putit into a clean saucepan. Add the water _cold_ to it; put it on thefire, and bring it to the boiling-point; then skim well. Put in the saltwhen the water boils, and _simmer_ the beef tea _gently_ from 1/2 to 3/4hour, removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain thetea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted foruse, remove every particle of fat from the top; warm up as much as maybe required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This preparationis simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids to whomflavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the patient is verylow, use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water. Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatablemanner, it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the nextrecipe, which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea. Beef teais always better when made the day before it is wanted, and then warmedup. It is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin, and toplace this basin in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm, it is ready to serve. 

_Time_. --1/4 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 lb. Of meat for a pint of good beef tea. 

 MISS NIGHTINGALE says, one of the most common errors among nurses, with respect to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea is the most nutritive of all article. She says, "Just try and boil down a lb. Of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea, and see what is left of your beef: you will find that there is barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to 1/4 pint of water in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality in it, --we do not know what, --as there is in tea; but it maybe safely given in almost any inflammatory disease, and is as little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent, where much nourishment is required. "

SAVOURY BEEF TEA. 

(_Soyer's Recipe_. )

1859. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of solid beef, 1 oz. Of butter, 1 clove, 2button onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart ofwater. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into very small dice; put it into a stewpan withthe butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat round over the firefor a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy; then add the water, and let it simmer gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, skimming off everyparticle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by ina cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is done bymerely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot beobjectionable, as it is taken out in skimming. 

_Time_. --1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. Per pint. _Sufficient_. --Allow 1 lb. Of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea. 

_Note_. --The meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, andpounded, with spices, &c. , for potting. It makes a very nice breakfastdish. 

 DR. CHRISTISON says that "every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when they refuse all other kinds of food. " This is particularly remarkable in case of gastric fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has been taken for weeks, or even months; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely 1/4 oz. Of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he asks, "What is its mode of action? Not simple nutriment; 1/4 oz. Of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances. " Possibly, he says, it belongs to a new denomination of remedies. 

BAKED BEEF TEA. 

1860. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of fleshy beef, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1/4saltspoonful of salt. 

_Mode_. --Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off allthe fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion ofwater and salt; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hotoven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in thedaytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remaintill the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained, and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured withan onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c. , when the stomach issufficiently strong to take those. 

_Time_. --3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night. 

_Average cost_, 6d. Per pint. 

_Sufficient_. --Allow 1 lb. Of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea. 

BAKED OR STEWED CALF'S FOOT. 

1861. INGREDIENTS. --1 calf's foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1blade of mace, the rind of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in themilk-and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhancethe flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, ifapproved; 1/2 a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, isalso a great improvement to this dish. 

_Time_. --3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ from March to October. 

CALF'S-FOOT BROTH. 

1862. INGREDIENTS. --1 calf's foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump ofsugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size ofa nut. 

_Mode_. --Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very gently, until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it rise tothe surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off everyparticle of fat. Warm up about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter, sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg; take it off the firefor a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep stirringover the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boilagain after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth will bespoiled. 

_Time_. --To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half. 

_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/4 pint of broth. 

_Seasonable_ from March to October. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

1863. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one; 1quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of sweetherbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns. 

_Mode_. --An old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into verygood broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be putin the broth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some othermanner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingredients, andsimmer gently for 1-1/2 hour, carefully skimming the broth well. Whendone, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted; then take all thefat off the top, warm up as much as may be required, and serve. Thisbroth is, of course, only for those invalids whose stomachs are strongenough to digest it, with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may be made inthe same manner as beef tea, with water and salt only; but thepreparation will be but tasteless and insipid. When the invalid cannotdigest this chicken broth with the flavouring, we would recommend plainbeef tea in preference to plain chicken tea, which it would be withoutthe addition of herbs, onions, &c. 

_Time_. --1-1/2 hour. 

_Sufficient_ to make rather more than 1 pint of broth. 

NUTRITIOUS COFFEE. 

1864. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 oz. Of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk. 

_Mode_. --Let the coffee be freshly ground; put it into a saucepan, withthe milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is putin, and boil both together for 3 minutes; clear it by pouring some of itinto a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob for a fewminutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still morenutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into thecoffee-cup. 

_Time_. --5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee. 

 Our great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that "a great deal too much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for their 'tea, ' you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often can't take anything else, if he has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a greater impairer of the digestion. In making coffee, it is absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and grind it at home; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain amount of chicory, at least. This is not a question of the taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory; it is, that chicory has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee, and, therefore, you may as well not give it. "

THE INVALID'S CUTLET. 

1865. INGREDIENTS. --1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt totaste. 

_Mode_. --Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton;take off all the fat; put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients;stew _very gently_ indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off everyparticle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. Thecelery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat, and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient, or thedish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutletwill be hard. 

_Time_. --2 hours' very gentle stewing. _Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

EEL BROTH. 

1866. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; 1/2 onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2cloves, salt and pepper to taste. 

_Mode_. --After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into smallpieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; simmergently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing thescum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve; put it by in a coolplace, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up asmuch as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. This is avery nutritious broth, and easy of digestion. 

_Time_. --To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half. 

_Average cost_, 6d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/2 pint of broth. 

_Seasonable_ from June to March. 

EGG WINE. 

1867. INGREDIENTS. --1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and 1/2 glass of cold water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste. 

_Mode_. --Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water;make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling; pour it on the egg, stirring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, and a little grated nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, set iton a gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but_do not allow them to boil_. Serve in a glass with sippets of toastedbread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixturewill be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink. 

_Sufficient_ for 1 person. 

TO MAKE GRUEL. 

1868. INGREDIENTS. --1 tablespoonful of Robinson's patent groats, 2tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in abasin; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Putit into a very clean saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping itwell stirred; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may be flavoured with asmall piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a littlegrated nutmeg may be put in; but in these matters the taste of thepatient should be consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve. Whenwine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or port makethis preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same quantity ofspirits is sometimes added instead of wine. 

_Time_. --10 minutes. 

_Sufficient_ to make a pint of gruel. 

INVALID'S JELLY. 

1869. INGREDIENTS. --12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch ofsweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. Of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown. 

_Mode_. --Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrubthem well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into asaucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eateneither warmed up or cold as a jelly. 

_Time_. --5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 

_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS. 

1870. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boilingwater. 

_Mode_. --Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outsidepith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lumpsugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or pouredoff from the sediment. 

_Time_. --2 hours. _Average cost_, 2d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1 pint of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

NOURISHING LEMONADE. 

1871. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 pint of boiling water, the juice of 4 lemons, the rinds of 2, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. Of loaf sugar. 

_Mode_. --Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with thesugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it; addthe wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and alsostrained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable, the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substitutedfor them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumpsof the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow isabsorbed. 

_Time_. --Altogether 1 hour to make it. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH. 

1872. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnip, 1/2 pints of water, pepper andsalt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Put the mutton into a stewpan; pour over the water cold and addthe other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully, cover thepan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour; strain it, letit cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm up as much asmay be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to take it, ateaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Pearlbarley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth, and should beboiled as long as the other ingredients. When either of these is added, the broth must not be strained, but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plainmutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton, water, and salt together, straining it, letting the broth cool, skimmingall the fat off, and warming up as much as is required. This preparationwould be very tasteless and insipid, but likely to agree with verydelicate stomachs, whereas the least addition of other ingredients wouldhave the contrary effect. 

_Time_. --1 hour. _Average cost_, _7d. _

_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of broth. 

_Seasonable_ at any time. 

_Note_. --Veal broth may be made in the same manner; the knuckle of a legor shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose. It is very goodwith the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a fewshank-bones. 

MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE. 

1873. INGREDIENTS. --1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with thebones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover thesaucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, andcontinue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during theprocess; strain the broth into a basin; if there should be any fat lefton the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top:the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free thepreparation from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable thanbroth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top; to avoid this, it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can thenbe so easily removed. 

_Time_. --20 minutes after the water boils. _Average cost_, 5d. 

_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of broth. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

STEWED RABBITS IN MILK. 

1874. INGREDIENTS. --2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown; 1-1/2pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little saltand cayenne. 

_Mode_. --Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the milk, and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the rabbits intojoints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients, and simmer them _very gently_ until quite tender. Stir the contents fromtime to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish. 

_Time_. --1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. To 1s. 6d. Each. 

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 meals. _Seasonable_ from September to February. 

RICE-MILK. 

1875. INGREDIENTS. --3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar totaste; when liked, a little grated nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk, andsimmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to time toprevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a little grated nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children;it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little finely-mincedsuet may be boiled with it, which renders it more strengthening and morewholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni, may all bedressed in the same manner. 

_Time_. --From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time. 

TO MAKE TOAST-AND-WATER. 

1876. INGREDIENTS. --A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is betterthan anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on everyside, but _do not allow it to burn or blacken_. Put it into a jug, pourthe boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain untilcold. When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water shouldalways be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to getcold: if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedinglydisagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink iswanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just coverit with the boiling water; when this is cool, cold water may be added inthe proportion required, --the toast-and-water strained; it will then beready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than by the abovemethod. 

TOAST SANDWICHES. 

1877. INGREDIENTS. --Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter, pepper and salt to taste. 

_Mode_. --Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thinbread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepperand salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, orvery fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these formswill be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid. 

1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in theprevious chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, whichit would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simplepuddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c. , all of which dishes may bepartaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in precedingchapters. 

DINNERS AND DINING. 

CHAPTER XL. 

1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of theinferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said thathe is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. ACroat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, "When, in campaign, we feelhungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powderit with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then eat it. " Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have beenknown to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it bycarrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some racesof men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a_dinner_ at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bonehalf bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native ofTerra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay. Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupyin the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knowshow to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies boththe will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealismsand graces, the more material conditions of human existence; andwherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble. 

1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter ofconsiderable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index ofhuman, ingenuity and resource. "Their table, " says Lord Byron, indescribing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at NormanAbbey, --

 "Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts. I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts, Albeit all human history attests That happiness for man--the hungry sinner!-- Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner. "

And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of theresults produced by human cleverness and application catering for themodifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of theprimal instincts:--

 "The mind is lost in mighty contemplation Of intellect expended on two courses; And indigestion's grand multiplication Requires arithmetic beyond my forces. Who would suppose, from Adam's simple ration, That cookery could have call'd forth such resources, As form a science and a nomenclature From out the commonest demands of nature?"

And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between theCroat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up agreat dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Graygiving "a little dinner" to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous"roly-poly puddings" of hers), --what a gulf it is!

1881. That Adam's "ration, " however, was "simple, " is a matter on whichwe have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid thatmemorable visit to Paradise, --which we are expressly told by Milton hedid exactly at dinner-time, --Eve seems to have prepared "a littledinner" not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creamsand perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet onthese points:--

 "And Eve within, due at her home prepared For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please True appetite, and not disrelish thirst Of nectarous draughts between. .. . . .. . With dispatchful looks in haste She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent, What choice to choose for delicacy best, What order so contrived as not to mix Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change-- * * * * * "She _tempers dulcet creams_. .. . . .. . _then strews the ground With rose and odours. _"

It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more tosay about wine than solid food, because the former more directlystimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from thesubject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the abovepassage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a daintysupper, given by Keats in his "Eve of Saint Agnes. " Could Queen Mabherself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to itsappointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collationserved by Porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept?--

 "There by the bedside, where the faded moon Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set A table, and, half-anguish'd, threw thereor A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet. * * * * * "While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd; With jellies smoother than the creamy curd, And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon; Manna and dates, in argosy transferr'd From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one, From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon. "

But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, whichmay be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of "AudleyCourt" he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:--

 "There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound; Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home, And, half cut down, a pasty costly made, Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks Imbedded and injellied. "

We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking maybe surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using hisprivilege to turn any and every repast into a "feast of reason, " with awarm and plentiful "flow of soul, " may really count it as not the leastof his legitimate prides, that he is "a dining animal. "

1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are greatdiners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men ofaction; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons ofvigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, alife of action _requires_ a vigorous constitution, even though there maybe much illness, as in such cases as William III. And our brave GeneralNapier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat somuch, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt tosuppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, "nerve-tissue is veryexpensive. " Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their owndinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, andwe may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely. 

1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they werenot wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, orsymposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in thelife of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold saidthat such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, thatif London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners wouldmeet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, weregreat diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chancesof being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Anypublic or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to befollowed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered "offering"being served up on the occasion as a pious _pièce de résistance;_ and asthe different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the communityin general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some veryreligious people never let a day pass without offering up something orother, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excusefor a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, orotherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions ofpublic rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners, very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up;only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the houseof one of the _heterae_. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome, well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crownedwith flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took offhis sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclinedon couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables. After the solid meal came the "symposium" proper, a scene of music, merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by younggirls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company toregulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the"mighty bowl. " From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor intogoblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, fillingthe cups of the guests. 

1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter whichdepends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the tasteof the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general, that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form noitem of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employedevery day. 

1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a moderndinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, oranything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be welldigested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, orstatesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are excitingand exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women whoare in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat thesimplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but thoseconditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their modeof dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. Itis in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that theskill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely amore important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation, in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, andof the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has beensaid that "the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which theyare fed;" and a great gastronomist exclaims, "Tell me what kind of foodyou eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are. " The same writerhas some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, butworth quoting:--"The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to allconditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with allother pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity thanthe discovery of a new star. "

1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has someaphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which arewell deserving of notice:--"Let the number of your guests never exceedtwelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seenthis varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of theMuses or fall below that of the Graces. ] Let the temperature of thedining-room be about 68°. Let the dishes be few in number in the firstcourse, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the mostsubstantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from themildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to yourhouse is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath yourroof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffeebe excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality ofhis wines and liqueurs. "

BILLS OF FARE. 

JANUARY. 

1887. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Mock Turtle Soup, removed by Cod's Head and Shoulders. 

 Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet. Flowers. 

 Clear Oxtail Soup, removed by Fried Filleted Soles. 

 _Entrées. _

 Riz de Veau aux Tomates. 

 Ragoût of Vase of Cotelettes de Pore Lobster. Flowers. à la Roberts. 

 Poulet à la Marengo. 

 _Second Course. _

 Roast Turkey. 

 Pigeon Pie. 

 Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham. Celery Sauce. Flowers. 

 Tongue, garnished. 

 Saddle of Mutton. 

 _Third Course. _

 Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam à la Parisienne. Removed by Tartlets. Plum-pudding. 

 Jelly. 

 Cream. Vase of Cream. Flowers. 

 Jelly. 

 Snipes, removed by Pommes à la Condé. 

We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1stCourse, Entrées, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will befound bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, bystudying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number forthe more limited company. Several _menus_ for dinners _à la Russe, _ arealso included in the present chapter. 

1888. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January). 

 FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup à la Crécy. Oxtail Soup. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce. Sweetbreads. Oyster Patties. Fillets of Rabbits. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey. Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Teal. Eggs à la Neige. Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit. 1 Jelly. 1 Cream. Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel. Grilled Mushrooms. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1889. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January). 

 FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Whitings au Gratin. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau. Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice. 

 SECOND COURSE. Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion, with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips. 

 THIRD COURSE. Woodcocks or Partridges. Widgeon. Charlotte à la Vanille. Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jelly. Blancmange. Artichoke Bottoms. Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1890. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January). 

 FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Fried Whitings. 

 ENTREES. Fricasseed Chicken. Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Pheasants. Meringues à la Crême. Compôte of Apples. Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. Soufflé of Rice. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1891. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Soles à la Normandie. 

 ENTREES. Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante. Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Plum-pudding. Custards in Glasses. Apple Tart. Fondue à la Brillat Savarin. 

 DESSERT. 

1892. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce. John Dory. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière Rissoles. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Leg of Mutton. Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice. 

 THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Apple Fritters. Tartlets of Greengage Jam. Orange Jelly. Plum-pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

1893. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Pea-soup. Baked Haddock. Soles à la Crême. 

 ENTREES. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. Fricasseed Rabbit. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Pork and Apple Sauce. Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Jugged Hare. Whipped Cream, Blancmange. Mince Pies. Cabinet Pudding. 

1894. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Palestine Soup. Fried Smelts. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Ragoût of Lobster. Broiled Mushrooms. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. 

 SECOND COURSE. Sirloin of Beef. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Charlotte aux Pommes. Cheesecakes. Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries. Blancmange. Nesselrode Pudding. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY. 

1895. _Sunday. _--1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roastleg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinetpudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons. 

1896. _Monday. _--1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which shouldhave been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; bakedarrowroot pudding. 

1897. _Tuesday. _--1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and alittle rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with themeat. 2. Rolled jam pudding. 

1898. _Wednesday. _--1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, andhorseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes. 

1899. _Thursday. _--1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beefshould be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni. 

1900. _Friday. _--1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onionsauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings. 

1901. _Saturday. _--1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples. 

 * * * * *

1902. _Sunday. _--1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint ofroast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese. 

1903. _Monday. _--1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, andwarmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order afew oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or itwill be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with winesauce. 

1904. _Tuesday. _--1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnishedwith Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding. 

1905. _Wednesday. _--1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints andfricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled. 

1906. _Thursday. _--1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding. 

1907. _Friday. _--1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver sideof the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if thereis a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Ricesnowballs. 

1908. _Saturday. _--1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef wasboiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding. 

FEBRUARY. 

1909. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. _First Course. _

 Hare Soup, removed by Turbot and Oyster Sauce. 

 Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. Flowers. 

 Oyster Soup, removed by Crimped Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 _Entrées. _

 Lark Pudding. 

 Lobster Patties. Vase of Filets de Perdrix. Flowers. 

 Fricasseed Chicken. 

 _Second Course. _

 Braised Capon. Boiled Ham, garnished. 

 Roast Fowls, garnished Vase of Boiled Fowls and with Water-cresses. Flowers. White Sauce. 

 Pâté Chaud. Haunch of Mutton. 

 _Third Course_

 Ducklings, removed by Ice Pudding. 

 Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes. 

 Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly. Flowers. 

 Victoria Blancmange. Gâteau de Sandwiches. Pommes. 

 Partridges, removed by Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1910. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February). 

 FIRST COURSE. Soup a la Reine. Clear Gravy Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smelts. 

 ENTREES. Lobster Rissoles. Beef Palates. Pork Cutlets à la Soubise. Grilled Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Braised Turkey. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables and Salads. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Plovers. Orange Jelly. Clear Jelly. Charlotte Russe. Nesselrode Pudding. Gâteau de Riz. Sea-kale. Maids of Honour. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1911. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February). 

 FIRST COURSE. Palestine Soup. John Dory, with Dutch Sauce. Red Mullet, with Sauce Génoise. 

 ENTREES. Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce. Fowl au Béchamel. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings. Pain de Rhubarb. Orange Jelly. Strawberry Cream. Cheesecakes. Almond Pudding. Fig Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1912. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February). 

 FIRST COURSE. Mock Turtle Soup. Fillets of Turbot a la Crême. Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Larded Fillets of Rabbits. Tendrons de Veau with Purée of Tomatoes. 

 SECOND COURSE. Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Roast Fowls. Boiled Ham. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Pigeons or Larks. Rhubarb Tartlets. Meringues. Clear Jelly. Cream. Ice Pudding. Soufflé. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1913. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)--I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Rice Soup. Red Mullet, with Génoise Sauce. Fried Smelts. 

 ENTREES. Fowl Pudding. Sweetbreads. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Pease Pudding. 

 THIRD COURSE. Lemon Jelly. Charlotte à la Vanille. Maids of Honour. Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

1914. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Fricasseed Rabbit. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Marrow Pudding. Cheesecakes. Tartlets of Greengage Jam. Lemon Cream. Rhubarb Tart. 

 DESSERT. 

1915. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Poulet à la Marengo. Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Lobster Salad. Charlotte aux Pommes. Pain de Rhubarb. Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly. 

 DESSERT. 

1916. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Cod à la Crême. Fried Soles. 

 ENTREES. Lark Pudding. Fowl Scollops. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Pigeon Pie. Small Ham, boiled and garnished. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Game, when liked. Tartlets of Raspberry Jam. Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb. Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding. Brocoli and Sea-kale. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY. 

1917. _Sunday_. --1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese. 

1918. _Monday_. --1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut inslices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese. 

1919. _Tuesday_. --1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Porkcutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese. 

1920. _Wednesday_. --1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, garnished with jam. 

1921. _Thursday_. --1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, peasepudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni. 

1922. _Friday_. --1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiledin. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding. 

1923. _Saturday_. --1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricotmutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese. 

 * * * * *

1924. _Sunday_. --1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and capersauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made withbottled fruit, ratafia pudding. 

1925. _Monday_. --1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice;rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding. 

1926. _Tuesday_. --1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton wasboiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese. 

1927. _Wednesday_. --1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef andmashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it intoneat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart. 

1928. _Thursday_. --1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef andvegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni. 

1929. _Friday_. --1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce;greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding. Cheese and water-cresses. 

1930. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork andmashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding. 

MARCH. 

1931. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber. 

 Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whitings. Flowers. 

 Spring Soup, removed by Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

 _Entrées_

 Fricasseed Chicken. 

 Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Compôte of Pigeons. Flowers. 

 Larded Sweetbreads. 

 _Second Course. _

 Fore-quarter of Lamb. 

 Braised Capon. 

 Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. Garnished. Flowers. 

 Roast Fowls. 

 Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. 

 _Third Course. _

 Guinea-Fowls, larded, removed by Cabinet Pudding. 

 Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb Tartlets. Tart. 

 Custards. Vase of Jelly in Flowers. Glasses. 

 Italian Cream. 

 Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes. Removed by Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1932. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March). 

 FIRST COURSE. White Soup. Clear Gravy Soup. Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber. Baked Mullets in paper cases. 

 ENTREES. Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce. Larded Sweetbreads. Rissoles. Chicken Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal and Béchamel Sauce. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips. Vegetables--Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli. 

 THIRD COURSE. Two Ducklings. Guinea-Fowl, larded. Orange Jelly. Charlotte Russe. Coffee Cream. Ice Pudding. Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. Spinach, garnished with Croutons. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1933. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March). 

 FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Salmon Cutlets. 

 ENTREES. Compôte of Pigeons. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Plum-pudding. Ginger Cream. Trifle. Rhubarb Tart. Cheesecakes. Fondues, in cases. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1934. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March). 

 FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Broiled Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Calf's Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Two Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Boiled Knuckle of Ham. Vegetables--Spinach or Brocoli. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Apple Custards. Blancmange. Lemon Jelly. Jam Sandwiches. Ice Pudding. Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1935. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soles à la Crême. 

 ENTREES. Veal Cutlets. Small Vols-au-Vent. 

 SECOND COURSE. Small Saddle of Mutton. Half Calf's Head. Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jelly. Custards, in glasses. Rhubarb Tart. Lobster Salad. 

 DESSERT. 

1936. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Baked Mullets. 

 ENTREES. Chicken Cutlets. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce. Boiled Leg of Pork. Pease Pudding. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Swiss Cream. Lemon Jelly. Cheesecakes. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni. 

 Dessert. 

1937. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Oyster Soup. Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber. 

 ENTREES. Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Charlotte aux Pommes. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream. Soufflé of Arrowroot. Sea-kale. 

 DESSERT. 

1938. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Boiled Mackerel. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Minced Veal and Oysters. 

 SECOND COURSE. Stewed Shoulder of Veal. Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Tartlets of Strawberry Jam. Cheesecakes. Gateau de Riz. Carrot Pudding. Sea-kale. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH. 

1939. _Sunday_. --1. Boiled 1/2 calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue ona small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashedpotatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding. 

1940. _Monday_. --1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served withsugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes. 

1941. _Tuesday_. --1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf's headwas boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks andoyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding. 

1942. _Wednesday_. --1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb. 

1943. _Thursday_. --1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding. 

1944. _Friday_. --1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loinof mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding. 

1945. _Saturday_. --1. --Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remainsof cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding. 

 * * * * *

1946. _Sunday_. --1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach andpotatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butterpudding. 

1947. _Monday_. --1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steakpie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards pouredround them; marmalade tartlets. 

1948. _Tuesday_. --1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashedturnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made withremains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese. 

1949. _Wednesday_. --1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, andbread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat andthe addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding. 

1950. _Thursday_. --1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the muttonwas boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribsof beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni. 

1951. _Friday_. --1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Coldbeef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit. 

1952. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plumtart, baked custard pudding. 

APRIL. 

1953. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Spring Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce. 

 Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers. 

 Soles a la Crême. 

 _Entrées. _

 Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas. 

 Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties. Flowers. 

 Grenadines de Veau. 

 _Second Course. _

 Roast Ribs of Lamb. 

 Larded Capon. 

 Stewed Beef A la Vase of Boiled Ham. Jardinière. Flowers. 

 Spring Chickens. 

 Braised Turkey. 

 _Third Course. _

 Ducklings, removed by Cabinet Pudding. 

 Clear Jelly. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly. 

 Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes. Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart. 

 Raspberry Cream. 

 Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1954. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April). 

 FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Julienne Soup. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Slices of Salmon a la Genévése. 

 ENTREES. Croquettes of Leveret. Fricandeau de Veau. Vol-au-Vent. Stewed Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Fore-quarter of Lamb. Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas. Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly. Meringues. Ratafia Ice Pudding. Lobster Salad. Sea-kale. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1955. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April). 

 FIRST COURSE Gravy Soup. Salmon and Dressed Cucumber. Shrimp Sauce. Fillets of Whitings. 

 ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Chicken Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Ham, garnished with Brocoli. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Compôte of Rhubarb. Custards. Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly. Cabinet Pudding. Ice Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

1956. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April). 

 FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce. Fried Filleted Soles. 

 ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Tongue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Guinea-Fowl. Sea-kale. Artichoke Bottoms. Cabinet Pudding. Blancmange. Apricot Tartlets. Rice Fritters. Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese. 

 DESSERT. 

1957. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). 

 FIRST COURSE. Tapioca Soup. Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Sweetbreads. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and White Sauce. Tongue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Soufflé of Rice. Lemon Cream. Charlotte & la Parisienne. Rhubarb Tart. 

 DESSERT. 

1958. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Fried Whitings. Red Mullet. 

 ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Rissoles. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Neck of Veal à la Béchamel. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Lemon Pudding. Rhubarb Tart. Custards. Cheesecakes. 

 DESSERT. 

1959. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Fricandeau of Veal. Lobster Cutlets. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. Boiled Chickens. Tongue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Goslings. 

 Sea-kale. Plum-pudding. Whipped Cream. Compôte of Rhubarb. Cheesecakes. 

 DESSERT. 

1960. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Crimped Salmon. 

 ENTREES. Croquettes of Chicken. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts. Boiled Capon. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Sea-kale. Lobster Salad. Cabinet Pudding. Ginger Cream. Raspberry Jam Tartlets. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL. 

1961. _Sunday. _--1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses. 

1962. _Monday. _--1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle ofveal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding. 

1963. _Tuesday. _--1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made fromremains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding. 

1964. _Wednesday. _--1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding. 

1965. _Thursday. _--1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni. 

1966. _Friday. _--1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef. Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batterpudding and sweet sauce. 

1967. _Saturday. _--1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remainsof the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast-dumplings. 

 * * * * *

1968. _Sunday. _--1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarbtart, cheesecakes. 

1969. _Monday. _--1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish ofboiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and poached eggs. 

1970. _Tuesday. _--1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiledneck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Bakedrice-pudding. 

1971. _Wednesday. _--1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennelsauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Figpudding. 

1972. _Thursday. _--1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarbpudding. 

1973. _Friday. _--1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, mincedveal. 2. Half-pay pudding. 

1974. _Saturday. _--1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Bakedarrowroot pudding. 

MAY. 

1975. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Asparagus Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce. 

 Fried Filleted Vase of Fillets of Mackerel, Soles Flowers. à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 Oxtail Soup, removed by Brill & Shrimp Sauce. 

 _Entrées. _

 Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. 

 Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Fowl. Flowers. 

 Veal Ragoût. 

 _Second Course. _

 Saddle of Lamb. 

 Raised Pie. 

 Roast Fowls. Vase of Boiled Capon Flowers. And White Sauce. 

 Braised Ham. 

 Roast Veal. 

 _Third Course. _

 Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad. Cheesecake removed by College Puddings. 

 Noyeau Jelly. 

 Italian Vase of Charlotte à la Cream. Flowers. Parisienne. 

 Inlaid Jelly. 

 Plovers' Ducklings, Eggs. Removed by Tartlets. Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1976. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May). 

 FIRST COURSE. White Soup. Asparagus Soup. Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricandeau of Veal. Stewed Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled and Roast Fowls. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Goslings. Charlotte Russe. Vanilla Cream. Gooseberry Tart. Custards. Cheesecakes. Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1977. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (May). 

 FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Salmon à la Genévése. Red Mullet. 

 ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Calf's Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes. 

 SECOND COURSE. Saddle of Mutton. Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Braised Ham. Asparagus. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Pigeons. Ducklings. Sponge-cake Pudding. Charlotte à la Vanille. Gooseberry Tart. Cream. Cheesecakes. Apricot-jam Tart. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1978. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (May). 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Fillets of Mackerel. 

 ENTREES Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Lobster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Asparagus. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Gooseberry Tart. Custards. Fancy Pastry. Soufflé. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1979. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce. Sweetbreads. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon. Asparagus. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Cabinet Pudding. Compôte of Gooseberries. Custards in Glasses. Blancmange. Lemon Tartlets. Fondue. 

 DESSERT. 

1980. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Boiled Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel. Fried Smelts. 

 ENTREES. Scollops of Fowl. Lobster Pudding. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach. Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Leveret. Salad. Soufflé of Rice. Ramekins. Strawberry-jam Tartlets. Orange Jelly. 

 DESSERT. 

1981. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Trout with Dutch Sauce. Salmon Cutlets. 

 ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Calf's Head à la Tortue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Spring Chickens. Iced Pudding. Vanilla Cream. Clear Jelly. Tartlets. Cheesecakes. 

 DESSERT. 

1982. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce. Baked Whitings aux Fines Herbes. 

 ENTREES. Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers. Stewed Pigeons. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Bacon-cheek and Greens. Fillet of Beef à la Jardinière. 

 THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Soufflé à la Vanille. Compôte of Oranges. Meringues. Gooseberry Tart. Fondue. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MAY. 

1983. _Sunday_. --1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus andpotatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards. 

1984. _Monday_. --1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding. 

1985. _Tuesday_. --1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton, rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni. 

1986. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream. 

1987. _Thursday_. --1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding. 

1988. _Friday_. --1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewedrump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding. 

1989. _Saturday_. --1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets, and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni. 

 * * * * *

1990. _Sunday_. --1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roastlamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart. 

1991. _Monday_. --1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce andgarnished with croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamband dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugarsprinkled over. Baked rice pudding. 

1992. _Tuesday_. --1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshirepudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding. 

1993. _Wednesday_. --1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef anddressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Bakedplum-pudding. 

1994. _Thursday_. --1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, broiledbeef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart. 

1995. _Friday_. --1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onionsauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings. 

1996. _Saturday_. --1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain meltedbutter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowrootpudding. 

JUNE. 

1997. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course_. 

 Asparagus Soup, removed by Crimped Salmon. 

 Fillets of Garnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes. Flowers. 

 Vermicelli Soup, removed by Whitebait. 

 _Entrées_. 

 Lamb Cutlets and Peas. 

 Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau Flowers. à la Jardinière. 

 Larded Sweetbreads. 

 _Second Course_. 

 Saddle of Lamb. 

 Tongue. 

 Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon. Chickens. Flowers. 

 Ham. 

 Boiled Calf's Head. 

 _Third Course_. 

 Prawns. Leveret, Tartlets. Removed by Ice Pudding. 

 Wine Jelly. 

 Vol-au-Vent of Straw- Vase of Custards in berries and Cream. Flowers. Glasses. 

 Blancmange. 

 Goslings, removed by Cheesecake Fondues, in cases. Plover's Eggs. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1998. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June). 

 FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Rice Soup. Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Trout à la Genévése. Whitebait. 

 ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricasseed Chicken. Lobster Rissoles. Stewed Veal and Peas. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach. Filet de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Boiled Fowls. Braised Shoulder of Lamb. Tongue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Ducklings. Nesselrode Pudding. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Gooseberry Tartlets. Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Custards. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

1999. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (June). 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. Red Mullet. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas. Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb, garnished with young Carrots. Boiled Bacon-cheek. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Leveret. Gooseberry Tart. Strawberry Cream. Strawberry Tartlets, Meringues. Cabinet Pudding. Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2000. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June). 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Trout à la Genévése Salmon Cutlets. 

 ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Peas. Fricasseed Chicken. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Ham. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Compôte of Gooseberries. Strawberry Jelly. Pastry. Iced Pudding. Cauliflower with Cream Sauce. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2001. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Veal Cutlets and Endive. Ragoût of Duck and Green Peas. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb and White Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Strawberry Cream. Gooseberry Tartlets. Almond Pudding. Lobster Salad. 

 DESSERT. 

2002. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel. Whitebait. 

 ENTREES. Chicken Cutlets. Curried Lobster. 

 SECOND COURSE. Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Green-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Strawberry Blancmange. Soufflé of Rice. 

 DESSERT. 

2003. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Baked Soles aux fines herbes. Stewed Trout. 

 ENTREES. Calf's Liver and Bacon. Rissoles. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad. Calf's Head à la Tortue. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream. Strawberry Tartlets. Lemon Blancmange. Baked Gooseberry Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

2004. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Spinach Soup. Soles à la Crême. Red Mullet. 

 ENTREES. Roast Fillet of Veal. Braised Ham and Spinach. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Fowls and White Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Strawberry Jelly. Swiss Cream. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE. 

2005. _Sunday_. --1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards. 

2006. _Monday_. --1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart. 

2007. _Tuesday_. --1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding. 

2008. _Wednesday_. --1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, peas, hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding. 

2009. _Thursday_--1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice. 

2010. _Friday_. --1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding. 

2011. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones andcucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding. 

 * * * * *

2012. _Sunday_. --1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, andnew potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue. 

2013. _Monday_. --1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding. 

2014. _Tuesday_. --1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peasand new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding. 

2015. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding. 

2016. _Thursday_. --1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding. 

2017. _Friday_. --1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots andnew potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings. 

2018. _Saturday_. --1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and greenpeas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream. 

JULY. 

2019. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course_. 

 Green-Pea Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber. 

 Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout Flowers. 

 Soup à la Reine, removed by Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel. 

 _Entrées_

 Lamb Cutlets and Peas. 

 Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens. 

 Chicken Patties. 

 _Second Course_. 

 Haunch of Venison. 

 Pigeon Pie. 

 Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens. Flowers. 

 Braised Ham. 

 Saddle of Lamb. 

 _Third Course_. 

 Prawns. Roast Ducks, Custards. Removed by Vanilla Soufflé. Raspberry Cream. 

 Cherry Tart. Vase of Raspberry-and- Flowers. Currant Tart. 

 Strawberry Cream. 

 Green Goose, removed by Creams. Iced Pudding. Tartlets. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2020. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (July). 

 FIRST COURSE. 

 Soup à la Jardinière. Chicken Soup. Crimped Salmon and Parsley-and-Butter. Trout aux fines herbes, in cases. 

 ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. 

 SECOND COURSE. Loin of Veal à la Béchamel. Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. Salad. Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Turkey Poult. Stewed Peas à la Francaise. Lobster Salad. Cherry Tart. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Lemon Creams. Nesselrode Pudding. Marrow Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2021. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July)

 FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Veal and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Braised Ham. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Peas à la Française. Lobster Salad. Strawberry Cream. Blancmange. Cherry Tart. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2022. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Jardinière. Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. Fillets of Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Beef Palates à la Italienne. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon and White Sauce. Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows. Bacon and Beans. 

 THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Whipped Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Meringues. Cherry Tartlets. Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2023. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce. Whitebait. 

 ENTREES. Croquettes à la Reine. Curried Lobster. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. 

 THIRD COURSE. Larded Turkey Poult. Raspberry Cream. Cherry Tart. Custards, in glasses. Gâteaux à la Genévése. Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY. 

2024. _Sunday_. --1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast filletof real, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-curranttart, baked custard pudding. 

2025. _Monday_. --1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished withwater-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart. 

2026. _Tuesday_. --1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl withremains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of coldfillet. 3. Strawberry cream. 

2027. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, andpotatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding. 

2028. _Thursday_. --1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets andtomato sauce, bashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings. 

2029. _Friday_. --1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suetdumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding. 

2030. _Saturday_. --1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam pudding. 

 * * * * *

2031. _Sunday_. --1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf's head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards. 

2032. _Monday_. --1. Hashed calf's head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding. 

2033. _Tuesday_. --1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, andpotatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding. 

2034. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes;the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweetpudding. 

2035. _Thursday_. --1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiledknuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding. 

2036. _Friday_. --1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas andpotatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding. 

2037. _Saturday_. --1. Minced mutton, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. Baked lemon pudding. 

AUGUST. 

2038. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Broiled Salmon and Caper Sauce. 

 Red Mullet. Vase of Perch. Flowers. 

 Soup à la Julienne, removed by Brill and Shrimp Sauce. 

 _Entrées. _

 Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière. 

 Curried Lobster. Vase of Lamb Cutlets à la Purée Flowers. De Pommes de Terre. 

 Fillets of Ducks and Peas. 

 _Second Course. _

 Haunch of Venison. 

 Ham, garnished. 

 Capon à la Vase of Roast Fowl. Financière Flowers. 

 Leveret Pie. 

 Saddle of Mutton. 

 _Third Course. _

 Grouse, removed by Cabinet Pudding. 

 Lobster Salad. Fruit Jelly. Cheesecakes. 

 Charlotte à la Vase of Custards. Vanille. Flowers. 

 Raspberry Vol-au-Vent Prawns. Tartlets. Of Pears. 

 Larded Peahen, removed by Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2039. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (August)

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soup à la Reine. Boiled Salmon. Fried Flounders. Trout en Matelot. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Pigeons. Sweetbreads. Ragoût of Ducks. Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Quarter of Lamb. Cotelette de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue. Bacon and Beans. 

 THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Wheatears. Greengage Tart. Whipped Cream. Vol-au-Vent of Plums. Fruit Jelly. Iced Pudding. Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERTS AND ICES. 

2040. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (August). 

 FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce. Red Mullet. 

 ENTREES. Riz de Veau aux Tomates. Fillets of Ducks and Peas. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Ham, garnished. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Fruit Jelly. Compote of Greengages. Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses. Omelette soufflé. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2041. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise. Fried Fillets of Trout. 

 ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas. Salmi of Grouse. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Turkey Poult. Plum Tart. Custard Pudding. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Strawberry Cream. Ratafia Soufflé. 

 DESSERT. 

2042. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vegetable-Marrow Soup. Stowed Mullet. Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Curried Lobster. Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Mutton. Stewed Shoulder of Veal, garnished with Forcemeat Balls. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce. Vol-au-Vent of Greengages. Fruit Jolly. Raspberry Cream. Custards. Fig Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST. 

2043. _Sunday_. --1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb, mint sauce, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, custard pudding. 

2044. _Monday_. --1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetablemarrow and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings. 

2045. _Tuesday_. --1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, Frenchbeans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding. 

2046. _Wednesday_. --1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French beans;the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow. 3. Black-currant pudding. 

2047. _Thursday_. --1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, Frenchbeans and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding. 

2048. _Friday_. --1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef andsalad, lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauceinstead of pudding. 

2049. _Saturday_. --1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of coldbeef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese. 

 * * * * *

2050. _Sunday_. --1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiledbacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans andpotatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding. 

2051. _Monday_. --1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, muttoncutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding. 

2052. _Tuesday_. --1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiledknuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croutons; vegetables. 3. College puddings. 

2053. _Wednesday_. --1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish ofrice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart. 

2054. _Thursday_. --1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suetdumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding. 

2055. _Friday_. --1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef wasboiled in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomatosauce. 3. Fondue. 

2056. _Saturday_. --1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef;cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding. 

SEPTEMBER. 

2057. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course_. 

 Julienne Soup, removed by Brill and Shrimp Sauce. 

 Red Mullet & Vase of Fried Eels. Italian Sauce. Flowers. 

 Giblet Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce. 

 _Entrées_. 

 Lamb Cutlets and French Beans. 

 Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au gratin. And Truffles. Flowers. 

 Sweetbreads and Tomata Sauce. 

 _Second Course_. 

 Saddle of Mutton. 

 Veal-and-Ham Pie. 

 Chickens à la Vase of Braised Goose. Béchamel. Flowers. 

 Broiled Ham, garnished with Cauliflowers. 

 Filet of Veal. 

 _Third Course_. 

 Custards. Partridges, Apple Tart. Removed by Plum-pudding. 

 Compôte of Greengages. 

 Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream. Flowers. 

 Pastry Sandwiches. 

 Grouse & Bread Sauce, removed by Plum Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. Custards. 

 DESSERTS AND ICES. 

2058. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (September). 

 FIRST COURSE. 

 Mock-Turtle Soup. Soup à la Jardinière Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Veal Cutlets. Scalloped Oysters. Curried Fowl. Grilled Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Calf's Head à la Béchamel. Braised Ham. Roast Fowls aux Cressons. 

 THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Grouse. Cabinet Pudding. Iced Pudding. Compôte of Plumbs. Damson Tart. Cream. Fruit Jelly. Prawns. Lobster Salad. 

 DESSERTS AND ICES. 

2059. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (September). 

 FIRST COURSE. Flemish Soup. Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts. Red Mullet and Italian Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Truffles. Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante. 

 SECOND COURSE. Loin of Veal à la Béchamel. Roast Haunch of Venison. Braised Ham. Grouse Pie. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Plum Tart. Whipped Cream. Punch Jelly. Compôte of Damsons. Marrow Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

2060. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September). 

 FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Crimped Skate. Slices of Salmon a la Genévése. 

 ENTREES. Fricasseed Sweetbreads. Savoury Rissoles. 

 SECOND COURSE. Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Partridges. Charlotte Russe. Apricots and Rice. Fruit Jelly. Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

2061. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Thick Gravy Soup. Fillets of Turbot à la Crême. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Vol-au-Vent of Lobster. Salmi of Grouse. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Grouse. Apricot Blancmange. Compôte of peaches. Plum Tart. Custards. Plum-pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER. 

2062. _Sunday_. --1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshirepudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengagepudding, vanilla cream. 

2063. _Monday_. --1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef andsalad; small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce. 

2064. _Tuesday_. --1. Fried solos, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon-check, garnished with French beans; beefrissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream. 

2065. _Wednesday_. --1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suetdumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice. 

2066. _Thursday_. --1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef wasboiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Applepudding. 

2067. _Friday_. --1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from coldbeef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart. 

2068. _Saturday_. --1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Somersetshire dumplings. 

 * * * * *

2069. _Sunday_. --1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast legof mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf'shead, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards, in glasses. 

2070. _Monday_. --1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head à la maitred'hôtel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef andvegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding. 

1071. _Tuesday_. --1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon, garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains ofmutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding. 

2072. _Wednesday_. --1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked applepudding. 

2073. _Thursday_. --1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, andred-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scallopedoysters, instead of pudding. 

2074. _Friday_. --1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare, jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding. 

2075. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster sauce, mashedpotatoes; veal-and-ham pie, --the ham may be cut from that boiled onWednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2, Lemon pudding. 

OCTOBER. 

2076. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course_

 Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 

 Soles à la Vase of Red Mullet. Normandie. Flowers. 

 Julienne Soup, removed by John Dory and Dutch Sauce. 

 _Entrées_

 Sweetbreads and Tomata Sauce. 

 Oyster Patties. Vase of Stewed Mushrooms. Flowers. 

 Fricandeau de Veau and Celery Sauce. 

 _Second Course. _

 Roast Saddle of Mutton. 

 Grouse Pie. 

 Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Fowls and Flowers. Oyster Sauce. 

 Ham. 

 Larded Turkey. 

 _Third Course. _

 Custards. Pheasants, Prawns. Removed by Cabinet Pudding. 

 Italian Cream. 

 Gâteau de Vase of Compôte of Pommes. Flowers. Plums. 

 Peach Jelly. 

 Roast Hare, removed by Lobster Salad. Iced Pudding. Apple Tart. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2077. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (OCTOBER). 

 FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup à la Créci. Soup à la Reine. Baked Cod. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Riz de Veau and Tomata Sauce. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert. Grilled Mushrooms. 

 SECOND COURSE. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Roast Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Pheasants. Quince Jelly. Lemon Cream. Apple Tart. Compote of Peaches. Nesselrode Pudding. Cabinet Pudding. Scalloped Oysters. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2078. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (October). 

 FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Stewed Eels. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Curried Sweetbreads. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose. 

 THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Apple Tart. Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2079. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Hare Soup. Broiled Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel. Haddocks and Egg Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans. Haricot Mutton. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Pheasants. Punch Jelly. Blancmange. Apples à la Portugaise. Charlotte à la Vanille. Marrow Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

2080. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Mock-Turtle Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings. 

 ENTREES. Fowl à la Béchamel. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Sucking-Pig. Stewed Hump of Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Charlotte aux Pommes. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes. Apricot Tart. Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER. 

2081. _Sunday_. --1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce;small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damsontart, boiled batter pudding. 

2082. _Monday_. --1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton wasboiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies. 

2083. _Tuesday_. --1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices ofmutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding. 

2084. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetablemarrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding. 

2085. _Thursday_. --1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef andsalad; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni. 

2086. _Friday_. --1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce;bacon-check, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of coldbeef. 3. Baroness pudding. 

2087. _Saturday_. --1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish ofrice, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears andsponge cakes. 

 * * * * *

2088. _Sunday_. --1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch ofmutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, bakedcustards in cups. 

2089. _Monday_. --1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in amaître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolledbacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and steweddamsons. 2090. _Tuesday_. --1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly;hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings. 

2091. _Wednesday_. --1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiledknuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding. 

2092. _Thursday_. --1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, andpotatoes. 2. Rice snowballs. 

2093. _Friday_. --1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashedpotatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked applepudding. 

2094. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding. 

NOVEMBER. 2095. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course. _

 Thick Grouse Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 

 Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers. 

 Clear Ox-tail Soup, removed by Fillets of Turbot à la Crême. 

 _Entrées. _

 Poulet à la Marengo. 

 Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Ragoût of Lobster. Flowers. 

 Mushrooms sautés. 

 _Second Course. _

 Haunch of Mutton. 

 Cold Game Pie. 

 Lark Pudding. Vase of Roast Fowls. Flowers. 

 Boiled Ham. 

 Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. 

 _Third Course. _

 Apple Tart. Partridges, Shell-Fish. Removed by Plum-pudding. 

 Wine Jelly. 

 Pommes à la Vase of Vol-au-Vent Condé. Flowers. Of Pears. 

 Snipes, removed by Prawns. Charlotte glacée. Apricot Tartlets. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2096. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (November). 

 FIRST COURSE. Hare Soup. Julienne Soup. Baked Cod. Soles à la Normandie. 

 ENTREES. Riz de Veau aux Tomates. Lobster Patties. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. Croûtades of Marrow aux fines herbes. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Sirloin of Beef. Braised Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Bacon-cheek, garnished with Sprouts. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Partridges. Apples à la Portugaise. Bavarian Cream. Apricot-jam Sandwiches. Cheesecakes. Charlotte à la Vanille. Plum-pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2097. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (NOVEMBER). 

 FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce. Eels en Matelote. 

 ENTREES. Broiled Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables. Roast Goose. Cold Game Pie. 

 THIRD COURSE. Snipes. Teal. Apple Soufflé. Iced Charlotte. Tartlets. Champagne Jelly. Coffee Cream. Mince Pies. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2098. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER). 

 FIRST COURSE. Oyster Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Pigs' Feet à la Béchamel. Curried Rabbit. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Sucking-Pig. Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Jugged Hare. Meringues à la Crême. Apple Custard. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Whipped Cream. Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

2099. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce. Fried Eels. 

 ENTREES. Kidneys à la Maître d'Hôtel. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Small Ham. Lark Pudding. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Apple Tart. Pineapple Cream. Clear Jelly. Cheesecakes. Marrow Pudding. Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER. 

2100. _Sunday_. --1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricotbeans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding. 

2101. _Monday. _--1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolledbacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding. 

2102. _Tuesday_. --1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiledbacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding. 

2103. _Wednesday_. --1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, andpease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. Baroness pudding. 

2104. _Thursday_. --1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges, bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat slices, and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; applefritters. 

2105. _Friday_. --1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak andoyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni. 

2106. _Saturday_. --1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding. 

 * * * * *

2107. _Sunday_. --1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, smallboiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jamtart. 

2108. _Monday_. --1. The remainder of cod warmed in maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Bakedbread-and-butter pudding. 

2109. _Tuesday_. --1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef wasboiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Carrot pudding. 

2110. _Wednesday_. --1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Roast leg ofpork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese. 

2111. _Thursday_. --1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef;curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding. 

2112. _Friday_. --1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Apple tart. 

2113. _Saturday_. --1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce;vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit. 

DECEMBER. 

2114. --DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. 

 _First Course_. 

 Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Cod's Head and Shoulders and Oyster Sauce. 

 Stewed Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. Flowers. 

 Julienne Soup, removed by Soles aux fines herbes. 

 _Entrées_. 

 Fillets of Grouse and Sauce Piquante. 

 Curried Lobster. Vase of Mutton Cutlets and Flowers. Soubise Sauce. 

 Sweetbreads. 

 _Second Course_. 

 Haunch of Mutton. 

 Ham and Brussels Sprouts. 

 Roast Goose. Vase of Stewed Beef à la Flowers. Jardinière. 

 Game Pie. 

 Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. 

 _Third Course_. 

 Apricot Torte. Pheasants, Victoria removed by Sandwiches. 

 Plum-pudding. 

 Vanilla Cream. 

 Lemon Jelly. Vase of Champagne Jelly. Flowers. 

 Blancmange. 

 Wild Ducks, removed by Tipsy Cake. Iced Pudding. Mince Pies. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2115. --DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December). 

 FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Clear Vermicelli Soup. Codfish au gratin. Fillets of Whitings à la Maître d'Hôtel. 

 ENTREES. Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante. Fricasseed Chicken. Oyster Patties. Curried Rabbit. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables. Roast Goose. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. 

 THIRD COURSE. Widgeon. Partridges. Charlotte aux Pommes. Mince Pies. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream. Apple Tart. Cabinet Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2116. --DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December). 

 FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Fried Slices of Codfish. Soles à la Crême. 

 ENTREES. Croquettes of Fowl. Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Lark Pudding. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Grouse. Plum-pudding. Mince Pies. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Cheesecakes. Apple Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2117. --DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December). 

 FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Baked Soles. 

 ENTREES. Mutton Kidneys à la Française. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Boiled Beef and Vegetables. Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls and Water-cresses Tongue, garnished. Game Pie. 

 THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Blancmange. Compôte of Apples. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Almond Cheesecakes. Lemon Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

2118. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December). --I. 

 FIRST COURSE. Rabbit Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Hunters' Pudding. Lemon Cheesecakes. Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses. Raspberry Cream. 

 DESSERT. 

2119. --DINNER FOR, 6 PERSONS (December). --II. 

 FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 

 ENTREES. Savoury Rissoles. Fowl Scollops à la Béchamel. 

 SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce. Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Snipes. Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. Apples à la Portugaise. Apricot-jam Tartlets. Soufflé of Rice. 

 DESSERT. 

2120. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December). --III. 

 FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soles à la Maître d'Hôtel. Fried Eels. 

 ENTREES. Pork Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. Ragoût of Mutton à la Jardinière. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Goose. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Pheasants. Whipped Cream. Meringues. Compôte of Normandy Pippins. Mince Pies. Plum-pudding. 

 Dessert. 

2121. --DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December). --IV. 

 FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup. Baked Cod. Fried Smelts. 

 ENTREES. Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière. Fricasseed Chicken. 

 SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Mutton, boned and stuffed. Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. Vegetables. 

 THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Fancy Pastry. Lemon Cream. Damson Tart, with bottled fruit. Custards, in glasses. Cabinet Pudding. 

 Dessert. 

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER. 

2122. _Sunday_. --1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies. 

2123. _Monday. _--1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, coldbeef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed; appletart. 

2124. _Tuesday_. --1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets andtomata sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding. 

2125. _Wednesday_. --1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the brothserved first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it 2. Bakewellpudding. 

2126. _Thursday_. --1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. Rice snowballs. 

2127. _Friday_. --1. Soles à la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding. 

2128. _Saturday_. --1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings. 

 * * * * *

2129. _Sunday_. --1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, peasepudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies. 

2130. _Monday_. --1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mince-meat pudding. 

2131. _Tuesday_. --1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding. 

2132. _Wednesday_. --1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding. 

2133. _Thursday_. --1. Baked cod's head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni. 

2134. _Friday_. --1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roasthare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Opentarts, rice blancmange. 

2135. _Saturday_. --1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Mince pies, baked apple dumplings. 

2136. --BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PERSONS (November). 

 _First course_. 

 Hare Soup. 

 Purée of Grouse. Vase of Pheasant Soup. Flowers. 

 Soup á la Reine. 

 _Entrées_. 

 Salmi of Fillets of Hare Salmi of Widgeon. En Chevereuil. Woodcock. 

 Perdrixaux Choux. 

 Lark Pudding. Vase of Game Patties. Flowers. 

 Curried Rabbit. 

 Salmi of Fillet of Pheasant Salmi of Woodcock. And Truffles. Widgeon. 

 _Second Course_. 

 Larded Pheasants. Leveret, larded and stuffed. 

 Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of á la Périgord. Flowers. Mixed Game. 

 Grouse. 

 Larded Partridges. 

 _Third Course_. 

 Snipes. Pintails. Ortolans. 

 Quails. 

 Golden Vase of Widgeon. Plovers. Flowers. 

 Teal. 

 Wild Duck. Woodcock. Snipes. 

 _Entremets and Removes_. 

 Apricot Boudin à la Nesselrode. Maids of Tart. Honour. 

 Dantzic Jelly. 

 Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gâteau. Of Pears. Flowers. Génoise glacé. 

 Charlotte Russe. 

 Maids of Plum Pudding. Compôte of Honour. Apples. 

 _Dessert. _

 Olives. Strawberry-Ice Figs. Cream. 

 Preserved Pineapples. Dried Cherries. Fruit. Grapes. 

 Filberts. Pears. Walnuts. Wafers. Biscuits. 

 Ginger-Ice Cream. Vase of Orange-Water Ice. Flowers. 

 Apples. 

 Dried Grapes. Preserved Fruit. Cherries. Pears. 

 Figs. Lemon-Water Ice. Olives. 

MENU. 

2137. --SERVICE A LA RUSSE (July). 

 Julienne Soup. Vermicelli Soup. 

 Boiled Salmon. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. 

 Soles-Water Souchy. Perch-Water Souchy. 

 Matelote d'Anguilles à la Toulouse. Filets de Soles à la Normandie. 

 Red Mullet. Trout. 

 Lobster Rissoles. Whitebait. 

 Riz de Veau à la Banquière. Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres. 

 Canards à la Rouennaise. Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière. 

 Braised Beef à la Flamande. Spring Chickens. 

 Roast Quarter of Lamb. Roast Saddle of Mutton. 

 Tongue. Ham and Peas. 

 Quails, larded. Roast Ducks. Turkey Poult, larded. 

 Mayonnaise of Chicken. Tomatas. Green Peas à la Française. 

 Suédoise of Strawberries. Charlotte Russe. Compôte of Cherries. 

 Neapolitan Cakes. Pastry. Madeira Wine Jelly. 

 Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

_Note. _--Dinners à la Russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode ofserving the various dishes. In a dinner à la Russe, the dishes are cutup on a sideboard, and handed round to the guests, and each dish may beconsidered a course. The table for a dinner à la Russe should be laidwith flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle, togetherwith some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laidby the side of each guest. 

MENU. 

2138. --SERVICE A LA RUSSE (November). 

 Ox-tail Soup. Soup à la Jardinière. 

 Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. 

 Stewed Eels. Soles à la Normandie. 

 Pike and Cream Sauce. Fried Filleted Soles. 

 Filets de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Croquettes of Game aux Champignons. 

 Chicken Cutlets. Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. 

 Lobster Rissoles. Oyster Patties. 

 Partridges aux fines herbes. Larded Sweetbreads. 

 Roast Beef. Poulets aux Cressons. 

 Haunch of Mutton. Roast Turkey. 

 Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Ham. 

 Grouse. Pheasants. Hare. 

 Salad. Artichokes. Stewed Celery. 

 Italian Cream. Charlotte aux Pommes. Compôte of Pears. 

 Croûtes madrées aux Fruits. Pastry. Punch Jelly. 

 Iced Pudding. 

 DESSERT AND ICES. 

_Note. _--Dinners à la Russe are scarcely suitable for smallestablishments; a large number of servants being required to carve; andto help the guests; besides there being a necessity for more plates, dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be found in anyother than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service à laRusse is practicable, there it, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner soenjoyable as this. 

SUPPERS. 

2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a verysmall expense, provided _taste_ and _ingenuity_ are exercised. Thecolours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely; thereshould be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room shouldbe well lighted. We have endeavoured to show how the various dishes maybe placed; but of course these little matters entirely depend on thelength and width of the table used, on individual taste, whether thetables are arranged round the room, whether down the centre, with across one at the top, or whether the supper is laid in two separaterooms, &c. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with theappearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should be ornamented withcut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice, and allthe dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without lookingabsurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate. Hotsoup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. Theservants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand themto the guests: when these plates are removed, the business of suppercommences. 

2140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standingsupper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may beplaced on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected whichmay be eaten standing without any trouble. The following list may, perhaps, assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for astanding supper. 

2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the latter_all cut up_; dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, andgalantine of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards inglasses, compôtes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and several dishes of smallfancy pastry; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or threesponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented withvases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes are quitesufficient for a standing supper; where more are desired, a supper mustthen be laid and arranged in the usual manner. 

2142. --BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PERSONS (For Winter)

 Boar's Head, garnished with Aspic Jelly. Lobster Salad Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe. 

 Small Ham, garnished. 

 Small Pastry. Iced Savoy Cake. Biscuits. 

 Vanilla Cream EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Fruited Jelly. 

 Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. 

 Prawns Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Prawns Sauce. Biscuits Small Pastry Tongue, ornamented. 

 Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED. Custards, in glasses. In glasses. Raised Chicken Pie. 

 Tipsy Cake Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream. Roast Pheasant. 

 Meringues. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Meringues. 

 Raspberry Cream. Galantine of Veal. Fruited Jelly. 

 Tipsy Cake. Small Pastry. Biscuits. Raised Game Pie. 

 Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED Custards, in glasses. In glasses. 

 Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Tongue, ornamented. Prawns. Prawns. Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Sauce. Biscuits. Small Pastry. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange. 

 Small Ham, garnished. 

 Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe. Fruited Jelly. Larded Capon. 

_Note:_ When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Juliennemay be selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a laRomaine may also be added to the list of beverages. 

2143. --BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER, Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding orChristening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July). 

[Illustration: Containing the following--]

 [Columns 1 and 5] 4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table. 4 Jellies, to be placed down the table. 3 Dishes of Small Pastry. 3 Fruit Tarts. 3 Cheesecakes. 3 Compotes of Fruit. 3 English Pines. 20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits. 

 [Column 2] Dish of Lobster, cut up. Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. Lobster Salad Pigeon Pie. Lobster Salad. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Larded Capon. Lobster Salad. Pigeon Pie. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Savoy Cake. Lobster Salad. 

 [Column 3] Tongue. Ribs of Lamb. Two Roast Fowls. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue, garnished. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Collared Eel. Ham. Raised Pie. Two Roast Fowls. Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Raised Pie. Ham, decorated. Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. Two Roast Fowls. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue, garnished. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Collared Eel. 

 [Column 4] Veal-and-Ham Pie. Lobster Salad. Savoy Cake. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Lobster Salad. Boar's Head. Pigeon Pie. Lobster Salad. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Lobster Salad. Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. Veal and Ham Pie. Dish of Lobster, cut up. 

_Note_. --The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishesas they should be placed on the table; they should be arranged with thelarge and high dishes down the centre, and the spaces filled up with thesmaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours andcolours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together. This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placinga wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, ifrequired for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobstersalads, &c. &c. , should be kept in reserve to replenish those that aremost likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beefshould be placed on the buffet, as being something substantial for thegentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated inthe bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-waterices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, andlemonade. 

BREAKFASTS. 

2144. It will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of coldjoints, &c. , which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at thebreakfast-table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder mayfurnish, should be nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet. Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-hampies, game-and-Rump-steak pies, are all suitable dishes for thebreakfast-table; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. &c. 

2145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers inknowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. Broiled fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c. ;mutton chops and rump-steaks, broiled sheep's kidneys, kidneys à lamaître d'hôtel, sausages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poachedeggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, oeufs-au-plat, poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c. 

2146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase offreshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, anicely-arranged dish of fruit: when strawberries are in season, theseare particularly refreshing; as also grapes, or even currants. 

LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS. 

2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or alittle hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed onthe table for luncheon, with bread and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. Ifa substantial meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may heserved, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. Infamilies where there is a nursery, the mistress of the house oftenpartakes of the meal with the children, and makes it her luncheon. Inthe summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon, or, instead of this, a compote of fruit or fruit tart, or pudding. 

2148. Of suppers we have little to say, as we have already given twobills of fare for a large party, which will answer very well for asmaller number, by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting afew. Hot suppers are now very little in request, as people now generallydine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper; atall events, not one of a substantial kind. Should, however, a bill offare be required, one of those under the head of DINNERS, with slightalterations, will be found to answer for a hot supper. 

BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS. 

2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs oflamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6cucumbers. 

2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles wellcorked; 3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit, 2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings inmoulds, 2 blancmanges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large coldplum-pudding (this must be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozenplain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. Of butter (this, of course, includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves of household broad, 3dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb, of tea. Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make. 

Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic. 

2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, abottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, pepper, salt, good oil, and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a littleice. It is scarcely necessary to say that plates, tumblers, wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten; as alsoteacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk, if thislast-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood. Take 3corkscrews. 

2152. _Beverages_. --3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers;ginger-beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles; 6bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne à discrétion, and anyother light wine that may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Watercan usually be obtained so it is useless to take it. 

DOMESTIC SERVANTS. 

CHAPTER XLI. 

2153. It is the custom of "Society" to abuse its servants, --_a façon deparler_, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather, and, when rurally inclined, of the crops, --leads matronly ladies, andladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourablestate, to talk of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over thegreatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men attheir clubs, also, we are told, like to abuse their "fellows, " perhapsnot without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity ofintimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state. It is anotherconviction of "Society" that the race of good servants has died out, atleast in England, although they do order these things better in France;that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness, nor the careful andindustrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothersand great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer know their place; thatthe introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more recently, those ambiguous "materials" and tweeds, have removed the landmarksbetween the mistress and her maid, between the master and his man. 

2154. When the distinction really depends on things so insignificant, this is very probably the case; when the lady of fashion chooses herfootman without any other consideration than his height, shape, and_tournure_ of his calf, it is not surprising that she should find adomestic who has no attachment for the family, who considers the figurehe cuts behind her carriage, and the late hours he is compelled to keep, a full compensation for the wages he exacts, for the food he wastes, andfor the perquisites he can lay his hands on. Nor should the fast youngman, who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turfand in the tricks of low horse-dealers, be surprised if he is sometimesthe victim of these learned ways. But these are the exceptional cases, which prove the existence of a better state of things. The great massesof society among us are not thus deserted; there are few families ofrespectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to the noblemanwhose mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain amongtheir dependents attached and useful servants; and where these areabsent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sensible masterand the kind mistress know, that if servants depend on them for theirmeans of living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants forvery many of the comforts of life; and that, with a proper amount ofcare in choosing servants, and treating them like reasonable beings, andmaking slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature, they will, save in some exceptional case, be tolerably well served, and, in mostinstances, surround themselves with attached domestics. 

2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especiallyso to men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have alwaysabout them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect thandomestic service to look forward to; to them it presents no degradation, but the reverse, to be so employed; they are initiated step by step intothe mysteries of the household, with the prospect of rising in theservice, if it is a house admitting of promotion, --to the respectableposition of butler or house-steward. In families of humbler pretensions, where they must look for promotion elsewhere, they know that can only beattained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers. Can there be anystronger security for their good conduct, --any doubt that, in the massof domestic servants, good conduct is the rule, the reverse theexception?

2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according tothe wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducalmansion, with a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is thechamberlain and house-steward, to the occupier of the humbler house, where a single footman, or even the odd man-of-all-work, is the onlymale retainer. The majority of gentlemen's establishments probablycomprise a servant out of livery, or butler, a footman, and coachman, orcoachman and groom, where the horses exceed two or three. 

DUTIES OF THE BUTLER. 

2157. The domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables atbreakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by thefootman, and see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On takingaway, he removes the tray with the china and plate, for which he isresponsible. At luncheon, he arranges the meal, and waits unassisted, the footman being now engaged in other duties. At dinner, he places thesilver and plated articles on the table, sees that everything is in itsplace, and rectifies what is wrong. He carries in the first dish, andannounces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table, andrespectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when hetakes his place behind his master's chair on the left, to remove thecovers, handing them to the other attendants to carry out. After thefirst course of plates is supplied, his place is at the sideboard toserve the wines, but only when called on. 

2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell, and hands thedishes from the table to the other servants to carry away, receivingfrom them the second course, which he places on the table, removing thecovers as before, and again taking his place at the sideboard. 

2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives thedessert from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, withplates and glasses, and then takes his place behind his master's chairto hand the wines and ices, while the footman stands behind his mistressfor the same purpose, the other attendants leaving the room. Where theold-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table, without any cloth, is still adhered to, the butler should rub off anymarks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert. 

2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles, or gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usuallybe the case. Having served every one with their share of the dessert, put the fires in order (when these are used), and seen the lights areall right, at a signal from his master, he and the footman leave theroom. 

2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, andsees to the lights; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answerthe bell, and attend to the company, while the footman is clearing awayand cleaning the plate and glasses. 

2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime he appears with the candles;he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all thefires are safe. 

2163. In addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman iskept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, topay bills, and superintend the other servants. But the real duties ofthe butler are in the wine-cellar; there he should be competent toadvise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in;"fine, " bottle, cork, and seal it, and place it in the binns. Brewing, racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong to his office, as well astheir distribution. These and other drinkables are brought from thecellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-butler is kept;and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-book; sothat the book should always show the contents of the cellar. 

 2164. The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a household. Here, as elsewhere, honesty is the best policy: the butler should make it his business to understand the proper treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can easily do from the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it; his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a generous and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society than the reputation of a good wine-cellar, and all that is required is wines well chosen and well cared for; and this a little knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply. 

2165. The butler, we have said, has charge of the contents of thecellars, and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition, to finedown wine in wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places suited tothe sorts. Where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled, it is usualto return the same number of empty bottles; the butler has not, in thiscase, the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sortsseparated; but where the wine is bottled in the house, he will find hisaccount, not only in keeping them separate, but in rinsing them well, and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty. 

 2166. There are various modes of fining wine: isinglass, gelatine, and gum Arabic are all used for the purpose. Whichever of these articles is used, the process is always the same. Supposing eggs (the cheapest) to be used, --Draw a gallon or so of the wine, and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs, by stirring it with a whisk; afterwards, when thoroughly mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and stir up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split stick inserted through the bunghole. Having stirred it sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off, until the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that rise to the surface. When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three or four days. This quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or sherry. The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same manner, the material being cut into small pieces, and dissolved in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same manner. 

 2167. _To Bottle Wine_. --Having thoroughly washed and dried the bottles, supposing they have been before used for the same kind of wine, provide corks, which will be improved by being slightly boiled, or at least steeped in hot water, --a wooden hammer or mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet, receiving the liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer, which is placed in a tub or basin. This operation is best performed by two persons, one to draw the wine, the other to cork the bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub to prevent waste. The corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the knee, the bottle placed in it, and the cork, after being squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet. 

 2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick piece of muslin is placed in the strainer, to prevent the viscous grounds from passing into the bottle. 

 2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away in their respective binns, a layer of sand or sawdust being placed under the first tier, and another over it; a second tier is laid over this, protected by a lath, the head of the second being laid to the bottom of the first; over this another bed of sawdust is laid, not too thick, another lath; and so on till the binn is filled. 

 2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its quality and age. Port wine, old in the wood, will be ready to drink in five or six months; but if it is a fruity wine, it will improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to drink as soon as the "sickness" (as its first condition after bottling is called) ceases, and will also improve; but the cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and absolutely free from draughts of cold air. 

DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN. 

2171. Where a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant, then, whatever his ostensible position, he is required to make himselfgenerally useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, the plate; answer the visitors who call, the drawing-room and parlourbells; and do all the errands. His life is no sinecure; and a methodicalarrangement of his time will be necessary, in order to perform his manyduties with any satisfaction to himself or his master. 

 2172. The footman only finds himself in stockings, shoes, and washing. Where silk stockings, or other extra articles of linen are worn, they are found by the family, as well as his livery, a working dress, consisting of a pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a fustian jacket, with a white or jean one for times when he is liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast; and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him any livery had within six months. 

2173. The footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through allhis dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, andknives and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master'sclothes brushed, the furniture rubbed over; so that he may put aside hisworking dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to laythe cloth and prepare breakfast for the family. 

 2174. We need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process: three good brushes and good blacking must be provided; one of the brushes hard, to brush off the mud; the other soft, to lay on the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should be kept corked up, except when in use, and applied to the brush with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when put away, rests in a notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a good practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a sponge; then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides, taking care they are not placed near the fire, or scorched. Much delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots, so as to make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part retain a fresh appearance, with the lining free from hand-marks, which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes. 

 2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing the edge of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent polish with blacking. A little milk may also be used with very good effect for patent leather boots. 

 2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While cleaning the lower part in the usual manner, protect the tops, by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and rub out any spots with pumice-stone. If the tops are to be whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of pumice-stone in a pint of soft water; if a brown colour is intended, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of spirit of lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk "turned. " These mixtures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with a rubber made of soft flannel. 

 2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent's or Masters's machine, which gives very little trouble, and is very effective; before, however, putting the knives into the machine, it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little warm (not hot) water, and then thoroughly wiped: if put into the machine with any grease on them, it adheres to the brushes, and consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that may be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine must come to pieces, so causing an immense amount of trouble, which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are so cleaned, see that they are carefully polished, wiped, and with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from dirt, and place them in the basket with the handles all one way. 

 2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the mechanism; after that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an occasional entire clearing out with hot water: when this is done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling again with oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a soft brush and cloth, and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds, wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may be cleaned with oil and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel and oil only used, to prevent the removal of the bronze or enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not lacquered, is cleaned by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste, or with fine emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner. A small portion of sal ammoniac, beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft water, rubbed over brass ornaments, and heated over a charcoal fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to brass-work the brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps, let the wick be cut evenly all round; as, if left higher in one place than it is in another, it will cause it to smoke and burn badly. The lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder, and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the purpose. If it can be avoided, never wash the chimneys of a lamp, as it causes them to crack when they become hot. Small sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to use for cleaning the glasses inside, and a clean duster for polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed in cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where candle-lamps are used, take out the springs occasionally, and free them well from the grease that adheres to them. 

 2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft cloth, or a rubber of old silk; but dining-tables can only be kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which warms the wood and removes all spots. 

 2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary operation. Fine cloths require to be brushed lightly, and with rather a soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a hard one is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn the sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the collar, so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double one half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the back. 

2181. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now toclean himself and prepare the breakfast. He lays the cloth on the table;over it the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, andthen proceeds to wait upon his master, if he has any of the duties of avalet to perform. 

2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of his duties falls to thefootman's share, --brushing the clothes among others. When the hat issilk, it requires brushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, itrequires wiping the way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry, brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it. If thefootman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties, he willhave to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in duetime; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washhand-ewer isfilled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is readywhen required; that towels are at hand; that hair-brushes and combs areproperly cleansed, and in their places; that hot water is ready at thehour ordered; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place, the cleanlinen aired, and the clothes to be worn for the day in their properplaces. After the master has dressed, it will be the footman's duty torestore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the wholerestored to order. 

2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up thetea-urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast. Breakfast over, he removes the tray and other things off the table, folds up the breakfast-cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweepingup all crumbs, shaking the cloth, and laying it on the table again, making up the fire, and sweeping up the hearth. 

2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except wherethe footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business, when, in the absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist. 

2185. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the tableis not too near the fire, if there is one, and that passage-room isleft. A tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle; and this requirestwo persons: over this the slips are laid, which are usually removedpreparatory to placing dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks, and glasses, with five or six plates for each person. This done, heplaces chairs enough for the party, distributing them equally on eachside of the table, and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded, withinit a piece of bread or small roll, and a knife on the right side of eachplate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife and fork at the top andbottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests opposite tothem, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should be atthe top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of thegentleman next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at thebottom: it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork; at thesame time, on the right side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for asmany kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round, and a finger-glassor glass-cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter arefrequently put on the table with the dessert. 

2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, wherethat is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everythinghe is likely to require. At the expiration of the time, havingcommunicated with the cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceedsto take it up with such assistance as he can obtain. Having ascertainedthat all is in order, that his own dress is clean and presentable, andhis white cotton gloves are without a stain, he announces in thedrawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respectfully by the dooruntil the company are seated: he places himself on the left, behind hismaster, who is to distribute the soup; where soup and fish are servedtogether, his place will be at his mistress's left hand; but he must beon the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male orfemale, are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his ownservant with him, his place is behind his master's chair, rendering suchassistance to others as he can, while attending to his master's wantsthroughout the dinner, so that every guest has what he requires. Thisnecessitates both activity and intelligence, and should be done withoutbustle, without asking any questions, except where it is the custom ofthe house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be necessary tomention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine youpresent. 

 2187. Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number sufficient for the guests, so that each may help themselves, or, at least, their immediate neighbours. 

 DINNERS À LA RUSSE. 

 2188. In some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass, and ornamented with flowers, the dessert only being placed on the table, the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard, and handed round in succession, in courses of soup, fish, entries, meat, game, and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical, as fewer dishes are required, the symmetry of the table being made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes are also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and superior attendance, as the wines are also handed round; and unless the servants are very active and intelligent, many blunders are likely to be made. (See p. 954. )

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

2189. While attentive to all, the footman should be obtrusive to none;he should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the lefthand and on the left side of the person he serves, and hold it so thatthe guest may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, heshould use both hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing isspilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests. 

2190. Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes; but it is notexpected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he shouldhave time to notice them, although with the best intentions: thus itwould not be correct, for instance, if he observed that his master tookwine with the ladies all round, as some gentlemen still continue to do, but stopped at some one:--to nudge him on the shoulder and say, as wasdone by the servant of a Scottish gentleman, "What ails you at her inthe green gown?" It will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than forthe servant thus to turn his master into ridicule. 

2191. During dinner each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon shouldbe changed as soon as he has done with it; the vegetables and saucesbelonging to the different dishes presented without remark to theguests; and the footman should tread lightly in moving round, and, ifpossible, should bear in mind, if there is a wit or humorist of theparty, whose good things keep the table in a roar, that they are notexpected to reach his ears. 

 2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without shaking the bottle; if crusted, let it be inclined to the crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In opening champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop; properly cooled, the cork is easily extracted without an explosion; when the cork is out, the mouth of the bottle should be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm. 

2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook, who is waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the sameway as before; the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying thedishes from the kitchen, and handing them to the footman or butler, whose duty it is to arrange them on the table. After dinner, thedessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman, whoplaces himself behind his master's chair, to supply wine and hand roundthe ices and other refreshments, all other servants leaving the room. 

2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enterswith the tray, which has been previously prepared; hands the tray roundto the company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generallypoured out, while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. Ifit is an ordinary family party, where this social meal is prepared bythe mistress, he carries the urn or kettle, as the case may be; handsround the toast, or such other eatable as may be required, removing thewhole in the same manner when tea is over. 

 2195. After each meal, the footman's place is in his pantry: here perfect order should prevail--a place for everything and everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold water laid on, is very desirable, --cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls or tubs of sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and another for cold water. Have the bowl three parts full of clean hot water; in this wash all plate and plated articles which are greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush. 

 2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept, has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well as his own, and more constant occupation; he will also have the arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control, and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he must appear clean, and in a presentable state. After breakfast, when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms requires rubbing. Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be prepared; and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out. 

 2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it requires great care in washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is best for this operation, one for moderately hot and another for cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or three times, to drain for a few minutes. When sufficiently drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one, doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than continual reports of breakages, which, of course, must reach that region. 

 2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender treatment in cleaning, inasmuch as they are more costly to replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper; leave them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water up and down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well with clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry, polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with a fine cloth. To remove the crust of port or other wines, add a little muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some time. 

2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman'sduty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that theglasses, and sashes, and linings, are free from dust. In receivingmessages at the carriage door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, soas to comprehend what is said, in order that he may give his directionsto the coachman clearly. When the house he is to call at is reached, heshould knock, and return to the carriage for orders. In closing the doorupon the family, he should see that the handle is securely turned, andthat no part of the ladies' dress is shut in. 

2200. It is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for hismaster or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to thetradespeople; and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactnessin doing so, although writing even the simplest message is now theordinary and very proper practice. Dean Swift, among his other quaintdirections, all of which are to be read by contraries, recommends aperusal of all such epistles, in order that you may be the more able tofulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of Forfarshire had one ofthose odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who construed the Deanof St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when dispatch was ofsome importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called her ScotchPaul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying, "Now, Andrew, you ken a' aboot it, and needna' stop to open and read it, but just take it at once. " Probably most of the notes you are expectedto carry might, with equal harmlessness, be communicated to you; but itwill be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress'saffairs. 

2201. Politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things mastersand mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. Whenvisitors present themselves, the servant charged with the duty ofopening the door will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation, if the family are "not at home, " or "engaged;" which generally means thesame thing, and might be oftener used with advantage to morals. On thecontrary, if he has no such orders, he will answer affirmatively, openthe door wide to admit them, and precede them to open the door of thedrawing-room. If the family are not there, he will place chairs forthem, open the blinds (if the room is too dark), and intimate civillythat he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room, he announces the name of the visitors, having previously acquaintedhimself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be verycareful to repeat the names correctly; mispronouncing names is very aptto give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writerwas once initiated into some of the secrets on the "other side" of alegal affair in which he took an interest, before he could correct amistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor isdeparting, the servant should be at hand, ready, when rung for, to openthe door; he should open it with a respectful manner, and close itgently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold. When severalvisitors arrive together, he should take care not to mix up thedifferent names together, where they belong to the same family, as Mr. , Mrs. , and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each asdistinctly as possible. 

2202. _Receptions and Evening Parties_. --The drawing-rooms beingprepared, the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and suchother arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of thecompany, the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointedapproaches. Attendants in the drawing-room, even more than in thedining-room, should move about actively but noiselessly; no creaking ofshoes, which is an abomination; watching the lights from time to time, so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if the attendant likes agame of cribbage or whist himself, he must not interfere in his masteror mistress's game, nor even seem to take an interest in it. We onceknew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game ofcribbage, --John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The ladywas a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed herfavourite amusement. While handing about the tea and toast, John couldnot always suppress his disgust at her mistakes. "There is more in thathand, ma'am, " he has been known to say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to counthis nob;" in fact, he identified himself with his mistress's game, andwould have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount. It is notnecessary to adopt his example on this point, although John had manyqualities a good servant might copy with advantage. 

THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES. 

 2203. THE HORSE is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view him in his strength, his sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the most useful to man of all the animal creation; but his delicacy is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably, is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he has been reduced, or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure, bad feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point of humanity, not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed, well fed, and well groomed; and he will do well to acquire so much of stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself. In a general way, where a horse's coat is habitually rough and untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable. When a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is getting ill or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire much in the stables, is overfed, and probably eats his litter in addition to his regular supply of food. 

 2204. _Stables_. --The architectural form of the stables will be subject to other influences than ours; we confine ourselves, therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be roomy in proportion to the number of stalls; warm, with good ventilation, and perfectly free from cold draughts; the stalls roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped drainage, so as to exclude bad smells; a sound ceiling to prevent the entrance of dust from the hayloft, which is usually above them; and there should be plenty of light, coming, however, either from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse's eye. 

 2205. _Heat_. --The first of these objects is attained, if the stables are kept within a degree or two of 50° in winter, and 60° in summer; although some grooms insist on a much higher temperature, in the interests of their own labour. 

 2206. _Ventilation_ is usually attained by the insertion of one or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to keep out rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the atmosphere, with openings in the walls for the admission of fresh air: this is still a difficulty, however; for the effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts must be avoided. This is sometimes accomplished by means of hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and discharged at the bottom, while, for the admission of fresh air, the reverse takes place: the fresh by this means gets diffused and heated before it is discharged into the stable. 

 2207. _The Stalls_ should be divided by partitions of wood-work eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels, and nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from its neighbour. A hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or iron, occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the stall, which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more generally of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the stall. The pavement of the stall should be nearly level, with a slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry, paved with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy clinkers, or rubble-stones, laid in strong cement. In the centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a well-trapped drain to carry off the water; the gutter outside the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be from five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to each stall, pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and other things in daily use. 

 2208. _A Harness-room_ is indispensable to every stable. It should be dry and airy, and furnished with a fireplace and boiler, both for the protection of the harness and to prepare mashes for the horses when required. The partition-wall should be boarded where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various pieces of harness on, with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on, a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-up corn-bin. 

 2209. _The furniture_ of a stable with coachhouse, consists of coach-mops, jacks for raising the wheels, horse-brushes, spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes, dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms, trimming-combs, scissors and pickers, oil-cans and brushes, harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horse and carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves and measures, horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass lanterns. Over the stables there should be accommodation for the coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, and he should be at hand to interfere. 

DUTIES OF THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND STABLE-BOY. 

2210. _The Establishment_ we have in view will consist of coachman, groom, and stable-boy, who are capable of keeping in perfect order fourhorses, and perhaps the pony. Of this establishment the coachman ischief. Besides skill in driving, he should possess a good generalknowledge of horses; he has usually to purchase provender, to see thatthe horses are regularly fed and properly groomed, watch over theircondition, apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animalsunder his charge, and report where he observes symptoms of more seriousones which he does not understand. He has either to clean the carriagehimself, or see that the stable-boy does it properly. 

2211. _The Groom's_ first duties are to keep his horses in condition;but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to rideout with his master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwiseassist in the house: in these cases, he should have the means ofdressing himself, and keeping his clothes entirely away from thestables. In the morning, about six o'clock, or rather before, thestables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses fed, first bycleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in therack, that the horses may get it out easily; a short time afterwardstheir usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. Whilethis is going on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, andsweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done everyday, and every corner carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweetand clean. The real duties of the groom follow: where the horses are nottaken out for early exercise, the work of grooming immediatelycommences. "Having tied up the head, " to use the excellent descriptionof the process given by old Barrett, "take a currycomb and curry him allover the body, to raise the dust, beginning first at the neck, holdingthe left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry him from thesetting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to thepoint of the hock; then change your hands, and curry him before, on hisbreast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right sideto his left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, andso all over from the knees and back upwards; after that, go to the farside and do that likewise. Then take a dead horse's tail, or, failingthat, a cotton dusting-cloth, and strike that away which the currycombhath raised. Then take a round brush made of bristles, with a leathernhandle, and dress him all over, both head, body, and legs, to the veryfetlocks, always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it withthe currycomb. In the curry-combing process, as well as brushing, itmust be applied with mildness, especially with fine-skinned horses;otherwise the tickling irritates them much. The brushing is succeeded bya hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard, both to takeaway loose hairs and lay his coat; then wash your hands in fair water, and rub him all over while they are wet, as well over the head as thebody. Lastly, take a clean cloth, and rub him all over again till he bedry; then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding wellfrom the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressingthem very carefully about the fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel anddust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints. " In additionto the practice of this old writer, modern grooms add wisping, whichusually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hayband, untwisted, and again doubled up after being moistened with water: thisis applied to every part of the body, as the brushing had been, bychanging the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry thehand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed bysponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush; the wholebeing finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth shouldnow be put on by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside nextyou, and, with your right hand to the off side, throw it over his back, placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level, whichwill be about a foot from the tail. Put the roller round, and thepad-piece under it, about six or eight inches from the fore legs. Thehorse's head is now loosened; he is turned about in his stall to havehis head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part, including throat, with the dusting-cloth, finishing by "pulling his ears, " which allhorses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop shouldbe combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on bothsides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. Thehorse is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning itof stains with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, andforelock when necessary, smoothing them down with a brush on which alittle oil has been dropped. 

 2212. Watering usually follows dressing; but some horses refuse their food until they have drunk: the groom should not, therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject, but study the temper and habits of his horse. 

 2213. _Exercise_. --All horses not in work require at least two hours' exercise daily; and in exercising them a good groom will put them through the paces to which they have been trained. In the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop them, in order to keep them up to their work. With draught horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot. 

 2214. _Feeding_ must depend on their work, but they require feeding three times a day, with more or less corn each time, according to their work. In the fast coaching days it was a saying among proprietors, that "his belly was the measure of his food;" but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances. Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. Of hay in twenty-four hours, whereas 16 lbs. To 18 lbs. Is the utmost which should have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensive coach proprietor in Scotland, limited his horses to 4-1/2 lbs. Cut straw, 8 lbs. Bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. Bruised beans, in the morning and noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. Of the following; viz. , 560 lbs. Steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. Barley-dust, 40 lbs. Cut straw, and 6 lbs. Salt, mixed up together: under this the horses did their work well. The ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of oats, about 40 lbs. To the bushel, twice a day, a third feed and a rack-full of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. Or 18 lbs. , when he is in full work. 

 2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question put, "Do you bruise your oats?" Well, that depends on circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when it can get them; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power of masticating and bruising them, and bolt them whole; thus much impeding the work of digestion. For an old horse, then, bruise the oats; for a young one it does no harm and little good. Oats should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new, sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they overload the horse's stomach. Chopped straw mixed with oats, in the proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses in full work; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond, have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the coat. 

 2216. The water given to a horse merits some attention; it should not be too cold; hard water is not to be recommended; stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious; river water is the best for all purposes; and anything is preferable to spring water, which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour or two, and stirred up before using it; a handful of oatmeal thrown into the pail will much improve its quality. 

 2217. _Shoeing_. --A horse should not be sent on a journey or any other hard work immediately after new shoeing;--the stiffness incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down. A day's rest, with reasonable exercise, will not be thrown away after this operation. On reaching home very hot, the groom should walk him about for a few minutes; this done, he should take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp him over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: if the cloth is dipped in some spirit, all the better. He should wash, pick, and wipe dry the legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper, and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of straw under the saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should have some hay given him, and then a feed of oats: if he refuse the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly cleaned, and his body-clothes put on, and, if very much harassed with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly. 

 2218. _Bridles_. --Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped, to keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the latter being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is again put on. In washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and then rubbed with a brush till quite dry. 

 2219. _Harness_, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or hook, --one for the halters, another for the reins, and others for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil, --steel with emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil. 

 2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. Of yellow wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb. Of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water, and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. Of good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine. 

 2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather. 

 2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the leather, which should be polished as above. 

 2223. _For fawn or yellow-coloured leather_, take a quart of skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. Of sulphuric acid, and, when cold, add to it 4 oz. Of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve, and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge. 

 2224. _Wheel-grease_ is usually purchased at the shops; but a good paste is made as follows:--Melt 80 parts of grease, and stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use. This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly approved. 

 2225. _Carriages_ in an endless variety of shapes and names are continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets. 

2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before puttingaway, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for thewood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless thetimber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have adry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from theammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, andother gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. Whenthe carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, andthat, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done byfirst well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away allparticles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting thelinings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, usingplenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carvedwork, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage isthen raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it sothat the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mopuntil the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mopdoes not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, assoon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with softleather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even forthe panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stainsare removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if thatfails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be moresuccessful. 

2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbedover with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work andjoints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned, --the onewith plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, andleather kept for the purpose, --the other with rottenstone mixed with alittle oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste isremoved; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will berequired to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushingevery day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashesshould always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree arecarefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nutstightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled. 

2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman'soffice, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in thecarriage depends on his proficiency in his art, --much also of the wearof the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of theconstruction of the carriage to know when it is out of order, --to know, also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him, without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving toomuch. 

2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, puthis horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking roundthem, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to theoff-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses, where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot onthe step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely undercontrol. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, forwhere no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually soarranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, fromthe inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching anaccident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses. 

 2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his orders, --in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables, --a present. Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims, that "it's the pace that kills, " had driven the horse, capable of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the pace that kills, " is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed, when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age, " "tool'd" and horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry to his passengers, --then the pace was indeed "killing. " But the truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that _élan_ with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore, unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads this should never be seen. 

 2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they are properly paired, --that their paces are about equal. When their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths, cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;" but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein; the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and if no accident occurs, it is great good luck. 

2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that themere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions areindicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses areguided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed theirintended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strongthough gentle hand on the reins. 

2233. _The Whip_, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bredcattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use;if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except, indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does iteffectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, wherethere is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, thecoachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horsesstumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed, " to go over badground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance onthe poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to hisown brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary, but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses. 

DUTIES OF THE VALET. 

2234. _Attendants on the Person_. -"No man is a hero to his valet, " saiththe proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to hermaid. " The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and tooequally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests whichattendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet andwaiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress, receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in alltheir journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguardedmoments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to theircommands, --even to their caprices; they themselves being subject toerring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can beexpected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and arespectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, goodtemper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others, whether above or below them in the social scale, will be usefulqualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, fromsheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequentlymore susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner isopposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, eitherin praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good mannersand respectful conduct in their presence. 

2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treatingof the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences byseeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaidhas swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burnscheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do wellto throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time torecover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now hisduty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be airedproperly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed andcleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat andwaistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, arelaid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles ofthe toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set andstropped, and hot water ready for use. 

2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shavingthemselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and heshould, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brushthe hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age andstyle of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, thehair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often asrequired. A good valet will now present the various articles of thetoilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, whichhe will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, andboots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished. 

2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, thevalet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushedon the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a cleanhandkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders for the day. 

2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes thatmay be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers. 

2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes andappearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his masterpermits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable forthe occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness andcleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white orcoloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change themevery day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove thecrease of the previous fold. The coat collar, --which where the hair isoily and worn long, is apt to get greasy--should also be examined; acareful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as theyappear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectifiedspirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved andremoved by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of thespirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a fewdrops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of thegrain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of thegarment. 

 2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet, and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good, perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following recipes:--Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz. , sulphuric acid 1 oz. , best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar 3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated. 

 241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. Each of pounded galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. Of red French vine (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2 lb. Each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. Of green copperas, and 3 lbs. Of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. Of a very superior polishing paste for boots and shoes. 

2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all thecommissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes ormessages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctuallyand promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his masterreturns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to haveall things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, hebrings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called, delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwiseacquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his ordersfor the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to havethe dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arrangedcomfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared, dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything inorder that is required for his master's comforts. 

FEMALE DOMESTICS. 

DUTIES OF THE LADY'S-MAID. 

2243. The duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous, and perhaps moreonerous, than those of the valet; for while the latter is aided by thetailor, the hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady's-maidhas to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself: she should, indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a goodhairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics withwhich the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety andeffect. Her first duty in the morning, after having performed her owntoilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the eveningbefore, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order toput on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses shouldbe carefully examined, and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and otherwoollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over; butin general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissuesrenders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove thedust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thincloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece ofmerino, or other soft material, of a similar colour, kept for thepurpose. Summer dresses of barège, muslin, mohair, and other lightmaterials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be tumbled, it mustbe ironed afterwards. If the dresses require slight repair, it should bedone at once: "a stitch in time saves nine. "

 2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in order to remove every particle of dust; but this has probably been done, as it ought to have been, the night before. Velvet bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned with a soft brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is decorated have been crushed or displaced, or the leaves tumbled, they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers. If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural state by the hand or a soft brush. 

 2245. _The Chausserie_, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the few things left to mark her station, and requires special care. Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish for applying to ladies' boots, instead of blacking them:--Mix equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz. Of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies' blacking, which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. Bottles, is also very much used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking is dry und hardened. 

2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady's-maidshould prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room, toilet-table, and linen, according to her mistress's wishes and habits. The details of dressing we need not touch upon, --every lady has her ownmode of doing so; but the maid should move about quietly, perform anyoffices about her mistress's person, as lacing stays, gently, and adjusther linen smoothly. 

2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweepingthe hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placedher linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles ofdress she is to wear, which will probably have been arranged theprevious evening, the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties. 

2248. _Hairdressing_ is the most important part of the lady's-maid'soffice. If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, afterthoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, dress itaccording to the prevailing fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair isthoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside, folding the hair backround the head, brushing it perfectly smooth, giving it a glossyappearance by the use of pomades, or oil, applied by the palm of thehand, smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Doublebandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward, and rolling itover frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer: it isfinished behind by plaiting the hair, and arranging it in such a manneras to look well with the head-dress. 

2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not anunreasonable charge. If a lady's-maid can afford it, we would advise herto initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering onher duties. If a mistress finds her maid handy, and willing to learn, she will not mind the expense of a few lessons, which are almostnecessary, as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is socontinually changing. Brushes and combs should be kept scrupulouslyclean, by washing them about twice a week: to do this oftener spoils thebrushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft. 

To wash Brushes. 

2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece thesize of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and, after combing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristlesdownwards, into the water and out again, keeping the backs and handlesas free from the water as possible. Repeat this until the bristles lookclean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well, and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, _but not the bristles_, andset the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the fire; but take care notto put them too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes themsoft, as does also the use of soap. 

To clean Combs. 

2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makesthe teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made, rough. Small brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may bepurchased at a trifling cost: with this the comb should be well brushed, and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel. 

A good Wash for the Hair. 

2252. INGREDIENTS. --1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1 pintof boiling water. 

_Mode_. --Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; thenput the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it witha flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left tocool, make a very good wash for the hair; as also does rosemary-watermixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when thehair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbedin, to make it smooth and glossy. 

To make Pomade for the Hair. 

2253. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 lb. Of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent. 

_Mode_. --Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add thecastor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few dropsof any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, whichkeep well covered to prevent it turning rancid. 

Another Recipe for Pomatum. 

2254. INGREDIENTS. --8 oz. Of olive-oil, 1 oz. Of spermaceti, 3pennyworth of essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence oflemon. 

_Mode_. --Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use. 

To make Bandoline. 

2555. INGREDIENTS. --1 oz. Of gum-tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum. 

_Mode_. --Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the coldwater; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence ofalmonds; let it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top. This should make the stock bottle, and when any is required for use, itis merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until thedesired consistency is obtained, and to keep it in a small bottle, wellcorked, for use. This bandoline, instead of injuring the hair, as manyother kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its growth, and makingit always smooth and glossy. 

An excellent Pomatum. 

2256. INGREDIENTS. --1-1/2 lb. Of lard, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1/2 pintof castor-oil, 4 oz. Of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent;elder-flower water. 

_Mode_. --Wash the lard well in the elder-flower water; drain, and beatit to a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently todissolve the spermaceti, which should be beaten fine in a mortar. Mixall these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind ofscent may be preferred; and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use, keeping them well corked. The best way to liquefy the pomatum is to setthe bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will remain good for manymonths. 

To promote the Growth of Hair. 

2257. INGREDIENTS. --Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit ofrosemary; a few drops of oil of nutmeg. 

_Mode_. --Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair everynight with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will verysoon sensibly increase. 

 2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some general advice. In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite flat, and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned in front; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured to the stays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline petticoats; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the slit to prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well over the arms. If it is finished with a jacket, or other upper dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the hands, so that it falls in graceful folds. In arranging the petticoat itself, a careful lady's-maid will see that this is firmly fastened round the waist. 

 2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside with a pin, so as not to be visible; then raise the bow with the fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with brooch or bow in the centre. 

2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfastedherself, the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogetherupon the habits of the family, in which hardly two will probably agree. Where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, itis probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to hercare; that, the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly orother periodical cleaning; she will, therefore, have to make hermistress's bed, and keep it in order; and as her duties are light andeasy, there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach touncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after hermistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw thebed open, by taking off the clothes; open the windows (except in rainyweather), and leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast, except her attendance on her mistress prevents it, if the rooms arecarpeted, she should sweep them carefully, having previously strewed theroom with moist tea-leaves, dusting every table and chair, taking careto penetrate to every corner, and moving every article of furniture thatis portable. This done satisfactorily, and having cleaned thedressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the ornaments, and madethe glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops, emptied thewater-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the rooms, thedressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper toappear. 

2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to bedone in the bedroom, in which she will probably be assisted by thehousemaid to make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, shewill study her lady's wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, slopingor straight, and see that it is done accordingly. 

2262. Having swept the bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables andchairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left fromyesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her nextcare is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing inher department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may useher discretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settleherself down to any work on which she is engaged. This will consistchiefly in mending; which is first to be seen to; everything, exceptstockings, being mended before washing. Plain work will probably be oneof the lady's-maid's chief employments. 

 2263. A waiting-maid, who wishes to make herself useful, will study the fashion-books with attention, so as to be able to aid her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to the prevailing fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance requires. She will also, if she has her mistress's interest at heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger branches of the family. The lady's-maid may thus render herself invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all ladies, except those of the very highest rank, will consider themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person, capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose. 

2264. Among other duties, the lady's-maid should understand the variousprocesses for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces; edging ofcollars; removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similarprocesses, for which the following recipes will be found very useful. Inwashing--

 2265. _Blonde_, fine toilet-soap is used; the blonde is soaped over very slightly, and washed in water in which a little fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when clean, dry it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in linen, spread it out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where the blonde is of better quality, and wider, it may be stretched on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the gum with a sponge; or it may be washed finally in water in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved, which gives it more the appearance of new blonde. 

 2266. Lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the neck; they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing the edges as directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board, pinning it at each corner with fine pins; then going carefully over it with a sponge charged with water in which some gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved, to give it a proper consistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the whole collar should be sponged with the same water, taking care not to touch the flowers. 

2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, whichshould be removed at once. To remove--

 2268. _Grease-spots_ from cotton or woollen materials of fast colours, absorbent pastes, purified bullock's-blood, and even common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry. When the colours are not fast, use fuller's-earth or pulverized potter's-clay, laid in a layer over the spot, and press it with a very hot iron. 

 2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine; cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it with a hot iron, changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for a portion of the grease still remains: this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot, and a very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or circle will remain; nor will the lustre of the richest silk be changed, the union of the two liquids operating with no injurious effects from rubbing. 

 2270. _Fruit-spots_ are removed from white and fast-coloured cottons by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping the article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water, to prevent the texture of the article being injured. 

 2271. _Ink-spots_ are removed, when fresh applied to the spot, by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately afterwards. By the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent injury to the fabric. 

 2272. _Wax_ dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is easily discharged by applying spirits of wine. 

 2273. _Syrups or Preserved Fruits_, by washing in lukewarm water with a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of clean linen. 

 2274. _Essence of Lemon_ will remove grease, but will make a spot itself in a few days. 

To clean Silk or Ribbons. 

2275. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. Of honey, 1/2 lb. Of softsoap, 1/2 pint of water. 

_Mode_. --Mix the above ingredients together; then lay each breadth ofsilk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on thesoiled side with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water;take each piece of silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in eachvessel, but do not wring it; and take care that each breadth has onevessel of quite clean water for the last dip. Hang it up dripping for aminute or two, then dab it in a cloth, and iron it quickly with a veryhot iron. 

To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth. 

2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirelydischarge a newly-made paint-stain; but, if this is not successful, apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear. 

To make old Crape look nearly equal to new. 

2277. Place a little water in a teakettle, and let it boil until thereis plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the crape in bothhands, pass it to and fro several times through the steam, and it willto clean and look nearly equal to new. 

2278. Linen. --Before sending linen to wash, the lady's-maid should seethat everything under her charge is properly mended; for her own sakeshe should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, eachclass of garments by themselves, with a proper list, of which sheretains a copy. On its return, it is still more necessary to examineevery piece separately, so that all missing buttons be supplied, andonly the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into thewardrobe. 

2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in thehabit of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual forthe maid to accompany them; at all events, it is her duty to pack thetrunks; and this requires not only knowledge but some practice, althoughthe improved trunks and portmanteaus now made, in which there is a placefor nearly everything, render this more simple than formerly. Beforepacking, let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned, and, if necessary, lined with paper, and everything intended for packing laid out on thebed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away; thenicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers. Havingsatisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is inperfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulkyarticles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articlesrequiring room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up; finally, havingsatisfied herself that all is included, she should lock and cover up thetrunk in its canvas case, and then pack her own box, if she is toaccompany her mistress. 

2280. On reaching the house, the lady's-maid will be shown her lady'sapartment; and her duties here are what they were at home; she willarrange her mistress's things, and learn which is her bell, in order togo to her when she rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper'sroom; and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any oneof her mistress or her concerns. Her only occupation here will beattending in her lady's room, keeping her things in order, and makingher rooms comfortable for her. 

2281. The evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetitionof those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires;she assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renderssuch other assistance as is demanded; removes all slops; takes care thatthe fire, if any, is safe, before she retires to rest herself. 

2282. Ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid, and she shouldbe able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary. Ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simplerequirements. Cleanliness is the first essential: the ironing-board, thefire, the iron, and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean. It will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing, as fulldirections are given in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid. " A lady's-maidwill have a great deal of "Ironing-out" to do; such as light eveningdresses, muslin dresses, &c. , which are not dirty enough to be washed, but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases. In summer, particularly, an iron will be constantly required, as also askirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel. To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require smoothing out everytime they are worn, particularly if made with many flounces. Thelady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistresswhich require care; such as restoring the colour to scorched linen, &c. &c. The following recipe is, we believe, a very good one. 

To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen. 

2283. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. Of fuller's-earth, 1 oz. Of dried fowls' dung, 1/2 oz. Of soap, the juice of 2 large onions. 

_Mode. _--Boil all these ingredients together to the consistency ofpaste; spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if thethreads be not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on, and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace ofscorching will disappear. 

 2284. _Furs, Feathers, and Woollens_ require the constant care of the waiting-maid. Furs and feathers not in constant use should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye. From May to September they are subject to being made the depositary of the moth-eggs. They should be looked too, and shaken and beaten, from time to time, in case some of the eggs should have been lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in brown paper, which is itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks, which would be damaged by such close folds, must be looked to, and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening. 

Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths. 

2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather, tobacco-leaves, bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in thedrawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from mothsare kept, and they will never take harm. 

 2286. _Jewels_ are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in their cases; but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to the air, and require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean soap-suds, using fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold, silver, gilt, or precious stones into this lye, and dry them by brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair, or a fine sponge; afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft leather. 

 2287. _Epaulettes_ of gold or silver, and, in general, all articles of jewellery, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits of wine warmed in a _bain marie, _ or shallow kettle, placed over a slow fire or hot-plate. 

2288. The valet and lady's-maid, from their supposed influence withtheir master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to whichother servants are less subjected. They are probably in communicationwith the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet; such asbatters, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The conduct ofwaiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent, making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality, if any suchcan be made: they should represent any inconvenience respectfully, andif an excuse seems unreasonable, put the matter fairly to master ormistress, leaving it to them to notice it further, if they think itnecessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence themone way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic tomake them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them; theutmost that can be expected is that they should not influence theirjudgment in the articles supplied--that they should represent them trulyto master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all, servility to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a masterand mistress, and to their friends and visitors, is one of the impliedterms of their engagement; and this deference must apply even to whatmay be considered their whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear ahat in the house, in his master's or mistress's presence; nor offer anyopinion, unless asked for it; nor even to say "good night, " or "goodmorning, " except in reply to that salutation. 

To preserve cut Flowers. 

2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a longtime by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which alittle charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved. The vase should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with abell-glass, around the edges of which, when it comes in contact with theplate, a little water should be poured to exclude the air. 

To revive cut Flowers after packing. 

2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water iscold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of thestems, and keep them in fresh cold water. 

UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS. 

2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or moreassistants; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividingthe work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve forherself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture ofthe principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that everydepartment is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends onthe number in the family, as well as on the style in which theestablishment is kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual forevery grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is tokeep her mistress's apartments in order, thus abridging the housemaid'sduties. In others, perhaps, one waiting-maid attends on two or three, when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite. In fact, everyestablishment has some customs peculiar to itself, on which we need notdwell; the general duties are the _same in all_, perfect cleanliness andorder being the object. 

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID. 

2292. "Cleanliness is next to godliness, " saith the proverb, and "order"is in the next degree; the housemaid, then, may be said to be thehandmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are verynumerous, and many of the comforts of the family depend on theirperformance; but they are simple and easy to a person naturally cleanand orderly, and desirous of giving satisfaction. In all families, whatever the habits of the master and mistress, servants will find itadvantageous to rise early; their daily work will thus come easy tothem. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake it, whichthrows an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment. Where themaster's time is regulated by early business or professionalengagements, this will, of course, regulate the hours of the servants;but even where that is not the case, servants will find great personalconvenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderlyand methodical manner. The housemaid who studies her own ease willcertainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and, probably, half-past six or seven in the winter months, having spent a reasonabletime in her own chamber in dressing. Earlier than this would, probably, be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter. 

2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shuttersof all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs ofthose rooms which she is going to "do" before breakfast. In somefamilies, where there is only a cook and housemaid kept, and where thedrawing-rooms are large, the cook has the care of the dining-room, andthe housemaid that of the breakfast-room, library, and drawing-rooms. After the shutters are all opened, she sweeps the breakfast-room, sweeping the dust towards the fire-place, of course previously removingthe fonder. She should then lay a cloth (generally made of coarsewrappering) over the carpet in front of the stove, and on this shouldplace her housemaid's box, containing black-lead brushes, leathers, emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaninga grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side. 

[Illustration: CARPET-BROOMS. ]

2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail, which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and aclosely-fitting top. In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reservedfor use in the kitchen or under the copper, the ashes only being thrownaway. The cinders disposed of, she proceeds to black-lead the grate, producing the black lead, the soft brush for laying it on, her blackingand polishing brushes, from the box which contains her tools. Thishousemaid's box should be kept well stocked. Having blackened, brushed, and polished every part, and made all clean and bright, she now proceedsto lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polishto black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowedto rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish forgrates, may be prepared in the following manner:--

[Illustration: STOVE BRUSHES. ]

[Illustration: HOUSEMAID'S BOX. ]

2295. INGREDIENTS. --1 lb. Of common asphaltum, 1/2 pint of linseed oil, 1 quart of oil of turpentine. 

_Mode. _--Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other twoingredients. Apply this with a small painter's brush, and leave it tobecome perfectly dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but willmerely require dusting every day, and occasionally brushing with a dryblack-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When theyare required, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will needblack-leading in the usual manner. 

 2296. _Fire-lighting, _ however simple, is an operation requiring some skill; a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at the bottom in open order; over this a few pieces of paper, and over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood; over the wood, a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave hollow spaces between for air at the centre; and taking care to lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the smoke may go up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper with a match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon burn up; the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon communicating to the coals and cinders, provided there is plenty of air at the centre. 

 2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised with advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down, in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted in the usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some economy of fuel, as is said. 

2298. Bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfectorder. A day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dryleather the polished parts of a grate, as also the fender andfire-irons. A careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasionever to use emery-paper for any part but the bars, which, of course, become blackened by the fire. (Some mistresses, to save labour, have adouble set of bars, one set bright for the summer, and another black setto use when fires are in requisition. ) When bright grates are onceneglected, small rust-spots begin to show themselves, which a plainleather will not remove; the following method of cleaning them must thenbe resorted to:--First, thoroughly clean with emery-paper; then take alarge smooth pebble from the road, sufficiently large to holdcomfortably in the hand, with which rub the steel backwards and forwardsone way, until the desired polish is obtained. It may appear at first toscratch, but continue rubbing, and the result will be success. Thefollowing is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steelarticles:--

2299. INGREDIENTS. --1 tablespoonful of turpentine, 1 ditto of sweet oil, emery powder. 

_Mode. _--Mix the turpentine and sweet oil together, stirring insufficient emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream. Put it on the article with a piece of soft flannel, rub off quickly withanother piece, then polish with a little dry emery powder and cleanleather. 

2300. The several fires lighted, the housemaid proceeds with herdusting, and polishing the several pieces of furniture in thebreakfast-parlour, leaving no corner unvisited. Before sweeping thecarpet, it is a good practice to sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves, which not only lay all dust, but give a slightly fragrant smell to theroom. It is now in order for the reception of the family; and wherethere is neither footman nor parlour-maid, she now proceeds to thedressing-room, and lights her mistress's fire, if she is in the habit ofhaving one to dress by. Her mistress is called, hot water placed in thedressing-room for her use, her clothes--as far as they are under thehouse-maid's charge--put before the fire to air, hanging a fire-guard onthe bars where there is one, while she proceeds to prepare thebreakfast. 

2301. In summer the housemaid's work is considerably abridged: shethrows open the windows of the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms, that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied;she prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet, rubbing tablesand chairs, dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush, dusting the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rug; she cleans thegrate when necessary, and replaces the white paper or arranges theshavings with which it is filled, leaving everything clean and tidy forbreakfast. It is not enough, however, in cleaning furniture, just topass lightly over the surface; the rims and legs of tables, and thebacks and legs of chairs and sofas, should be rubbed vigorously daily;if there is a book-case, every corner of every pane and ledge requiresto be carefully wiped, so that not a speck of dust can be found in theroom. 

2302. After the breakfast-room is finished, the housemaid should proceedto sweep down the stairs, commencing at the top, whilst the cook has thecharge of the hall, door-step, and passages. After this she should gointo the drawing-room, cover up every article of furniture that islikely to spoil, with large dusting-sheets, and put the chairs together, by turning them seat to seat, and, in fact, make as much room aspossible, by placing all the loose furniture in the middle of the room, whilst she sweeps the corners and sides. When this is accomplished, thefurniture can then be put back in its place, and the middle of the roomswept, sweeping the dirt, as before said, towards the fireplace. Thesame rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-room grates as wehave just stated, putting down the cloth, before commencing, to preventthe carpet from getting soiled. In the country, a room would not requiresweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week; but the housemaidshould go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom, taking upevery crumb and piece she may see. After the sweeping she should leavethe room, shut the door, and proceed to lay the breakfast. Where thereis neither footman nor parlour-maid kept, the duty of laying thebreakfast-cloth rests on the housemaid. 

[Illustration: BANISTER-BROOM. ]

[Illustration: STAIRCASE-BROOM. ]

2303. Before laying the cloth for breakfast, the heater of the tea-urnis to be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire; or, where thekettle is used, boiled on the kitchen fire, and then removed to theparlour, where it is kept hot. Having washed herself free from the dustarising from the morning's work, the housemaid collects thebreakfast-things on her tray, takes the breakfast-cloth from the napkinpress, and carries them all on the tray into the parlour; arranges themon the table, placing a sufficiency of knives, forks, and salt-cellarsfor the family, and takes the tray back to the pantry; gets a supply ofmilk, cream, and bread; fills the butter-dish, taking care that the saltis plentiful, and soft and dry, and that hot plates and egg-cups areready where warm meat or eggs are served, and that butter-knife andbread-knife are in their places. And now she should give the signal forbreakfast, holding herself ready to fill the urn with hot water, or handthe kettle, and take in the rolls, toast, and other eatables, with whichthe cook supplies her, when the breakfast-room bell rings; bearing inmind that she is never to enter the parlour with dirty hands or with adirty apron, and that everything is to be handed on a tray; that she isto hand everything she may be required to supply, on the left hand ofthe person she is serving, and that all is done quietly and withoutbustle or hurry. In some families, where there is a large number toattend on, the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busyupstairs in the bedrooms, or sweeping, dusting, and putting thedrawing-room in order. 

2304. Breakfast served, the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers, throws up the sashes, if not already done, pulls up the blinds, throwingback curtains at the same time, and opens the beds, by removing theclothes, placing them over a horse, or, failing that, over the backs ofchairs. She now proceeds to empty the slops. In doing this, everythingis emptied into the slop-pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water for aminute in such vessels as require it; adding a drop of turpentine to thewater, when that is not sufficient to cleanse them. The basin isemptied, well rinsed with clean water, and carefully wiped; the ewersemptied and washed; finally, the water-jugs themselves emptied out andrinsed, and wiped dry. As soon as this is done, she should remove andempty the pails, taking care that they also are well washed, scalded, and wiped as soon as they are empty. 

2305. Next follows bedmaking, at which the cook or kitchen-maid, whereone is kept, usually assists; but, before beginning, velvet chairs, orother things injured by dust, should be removed to another room. Inbedmaking, the fancy of its occupant should be consulted; some like bedssloping from the top towards the feet, swelling slightly in the middle;others, perfectly flat: a good housemaid will accommodate each bed tothe taste of the sleeper, taking care to shake, beat, and turn it wellin the process. Some persons prefer sleeping on the mattress; in whichcase a feather bed is usually beneath, resting on a second mattress, anda straw paillasse at the bottom. In this case, the mattresses shouldchange places daily; the feather bed placed on the mattress shaken, beaten, taken up and opened several times, so as thoroughly to separatethe feathers: if too large to be thus handled, the maid should shake andbeat one end first, and then the other, smoothing it afterwards equallyall over into the required shape, and place the mattress gently over it. Any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put backthrough the seam of the tick; she will also be careful to sew up anystitch that gives way the moment it is discovered. The bedclothes arelaid on, beginning with an under blanket and sheet, which are tuckedunder the mattress at the bottom. The bolster is then beaten and shaken, and put on, the top of the sheet rolled round it, and the sheet tuckedin all round. The pillows and other bedclothes follow, and thecounterpane over all, which should fall in graceful folds, and at equaldistance from the ground all round. The curtains are drawn to the headand folded neatly across the bed, and the whole finished in a smooth andgraceful manner. Where spring-mattresses are used, care should be takenthat the top one is turned every day. The housemaid should now take upin a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet; she should dust theroom, shut the door, and proceed to another room. When all the bedroomsare finished, she should dust the stairs, and polish the handrail of thebanisters, and see that all ledges, window-sills, &c. , are quite freefrom dust. It will be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work, sothat she may not have too much to do on certain days, and not sufficientto fill up her time on other days. In the country, bedrooms should beswept and thoroughly cleaned once a week; and to be methodical andregular in her work, the housemaid should have certain days for doingcertain rooms thoroughly. For instance, the drawing-room on Monday, twobedrooms on Tuesday, two on Wednesday, and so on, reserving a day forthoroughly cleaning the plate, bedroom candlesticks, &c. &c. , which shewill have to do where there is no parlour-maid or footman kept. By thismeans the work will be divided, and there will be no unnecessarybustling and hurrying, as is the case where the work is done any time, without rule or regulation. 

[Illustration: SCRUBBING-BRUSH. ]

2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, thehouse-maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed beforeit is made; she should then make it, shake the curtains, lay themsmoothly on the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance, so that shemay be able to sweep under the bed. She should then unloop thewindow-curtains, shake them, and pin them high up out of the way. Afterclearing the dressing-table, and the room altogether of little articlesof china, &c. &c. , she should shake the toilet-covers, fold them up, andlay them on the bed, over which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown. She should then sweep the room; first of all sprinkling the carpet withwell-squeezed tea-leaves, or a little freshly-pulled grass, when this isobtainable. After the carpet is swept, and the grate cleaned, she shouldwash with soap and water, with a little soda in it, the washing-tableapparatus, removing all marks or fur round the jugs, caused by thewater. The water-bottles and tumblers must also have her attention, aswell as the top of the washing-stand, which should be cleaned with soapand flannel if it be marble: if of polished mahogany, no soap must beused. When these are all clean and arranged in their places, thehousemaid should scrub the floor where it is not covered with carpet, under the beds, and round the wainscot. She should use as little soapand soda as possible, as too free a use of these articles is liable togive the boards a black appearance. In the country, cold soft water, aclean scrubbing-brush, and a willing arm, are all that are required tomake bedroom floors look white. In winter it is not advisable to scrubrooms too often, as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly at thatseason of the year, and nothing is more dangerous than to allow personsto sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furniture, blinds, ornaments, &c. ; polish the looking-glass; arrange thetoilet-cover and muslin; remove the cover from the bed, and straightenand arrange the curtains and counterpane. A bedroom should be cleanedlike this every week. There are times, however, when it is necessary tohave the carpet up; this should be done once a year in the country, andtwice a year in large cities. The best time for these arrangements isspring and autumn, when the bed-furniture requires changing to suit theseasons of the year. After arranging the furniture, it should all bewell rubbed and polished; and for this purpose the housemaid shouldprovide herself with an old silk pocket-handkerchief, to finish thepolishing. 

[Illustration: LONG HAIR-BROOM. ]

2307. As modern furniture is now nearly always French-polished, itshould often be rubbed with an old silk rubber, or a fine cloth orduster, to keep it free from smears. Three or four times a year any ofthe following polishes may be applied with very great success, as any ofthem make French-polished furniture look very well. One precaution mustbe taken, --not to put too much of the polish on at one time, and _torub, not smear_ it over the articles. 

FURNITURE POLISH. 

2308. INGREDIENTS. --1/4 pint of linseed-oil, 1/4 pint of vinegar, 1 oz. Of spirits of salts, 1/2 oz. Of muriatic antimony. 

_Mode_. --Mix all well together, and shake before using. 

FURNITURE POLISH. 

2309. INGREDIENTS. --Equal proportions of linseed-oil, turpentine, vinegar, and spirits of wine. 

_Mode_. --When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniturewith a piece of linen rag, and polish with a clean duster. Vinegar andoil, rubbed in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a cleanduster, produce a very good polish. 

FURNITURE PASTE. 

2310. INGREDIENTS. --3 oz. Of common beeswax, 1 oz. Of white wax, 1 oz. Of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water. 

[Illustration: FURNITURE BRUSH. ]

_Mode_. --Mix the ingredients together, adding the water when cold; shakethe mixture frequently in the bottle, and do not use it for 48 hoursafter it is made. It should be applied with a piece of flannel, thefurniture polished with a duster, and then with an old silk rubber. 

2311. The chambers are finished, the chamber candlesticks brought downand cleaned, the parlour lamps trimmed;--and here the housemaid's utmostcare is required. In cleaning candlesticks, as in every other cleaning, she should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone; theknife used to scrape them should be applied to no other purpose; thetallow-grease should be thrown into a box kept for the purpose; the samewith everything connected with the lamp-trimming; the best mode of doingwhich she will do well to learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil;always bearing in mind, however, that without perfect cleanliness, whichinvolves occasional scalding, no lamp can be kept in order. 

2312. The drawing and dining-room, inasmuch as everything there is morecostly and valuable, require even more care. When the carpets are of thekind known as velvet-pile, they require to be swept firmly by a hardwhisk brush, made of cocoanut fibre. 

2313. The furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with asoft cloth, that it may be left perfectly free from dust; or where thatis beyond reach, with a brush made of long feathers, or a goose's wing. The sofas are swept in the same manner, slightly beaten, the cushionsshaken and smoothed, the picture-frames swept, and everything arrangedin its proper place. This, of course, applies to dining as well asdrawing-room and morning-room. And now the housemaid may dress herselffor the day, and prepare for the family dinner, at which she mustattend. 

2314. We need not repeat the long instructions already given for layingthe dinner-table. At the family dinner, even where no footman waits, theroutine will be the same. In most families the cloth is laid with theslips on each side, with napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine andfinger glasses on all occasions. 

[Illustration: BUTLER'S TRAY AND STAND. ]

2315. She should ascertain that her plate is in order, glasses free fromsmears, water-bottles and decanters the same, and everything ready onher tray, that she may be able to lay her cloth properly. Few things addmore to the neat and comfortable appearance of a dinner-table thanwell-polished plate; indeed, the state of the plate is a certainindication of a well-managed or ill-managed household. Nothing is easierthan to keep plate in good order, and yet many servants, from stupidityand ignorance, make it the greatest trouble of all things under theircare. It should be remembered, that it is utterly impossible to makegreasy silver take a polish; and that as spoons and forks in daily useare continually in contact with grease, they must require good washingin soap-and-water to remove it. Silver should be washed with a soapyflannel in one water, rinsed in another, and then wiped dry with a drycloth. The plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags, as inthe following directions:--Once a week all the plate should receive athorough cleaning with the hartshorn powder, as directed in the firstrecipe for cleaning plate; and where the housemaid can find time, rubbedevery day with the plate-rags. 

 2316. Hartshorn, we may observe, is one of the best possible ingredients for plate-powder in daily use. It leaves on the silver a deep, dark polish, and at the same time does less injury than anything else. It has also the advantage of being very cheap; almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes containing more or less of quicksilver, in some form or another; and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle. If any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver on plate, he has only to rub a little of it on one place for some time, --on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance, and he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure. 

To Clean Plate. 

_A very excellent method. _

[Illustration: PLATE-BRUSH. ]

2317. Wash the plate well to remove all grease, in a strong lather ofcommon yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it quite dry; then mix asmuch hartshorn powder as will be required, into a thick paste, with coldwater or spirits of wine; smear this lightly over the plate with a pieceof soft rag, and leave it for some little time to dry. When perfectlydry, brush it off quite clean with a soft plate-brush, and polish theplate with a dry leather. If the plate be very dirty, or much tarnished, spirits of wine will be found to answer better than the water for mixingthe paste. 

Plate-rags for daily use. 

2318. Boil soft rags (nothing is better for the purpose than the tops ofold cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, inthe proportion of 1 oz. Of powder to a pint of milk; boil them for 5minutes; wring them as soon as they are taken out, for a moment, in coldwater, and dry them before the fire. With these rags rub the platebriskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried after daily use. Amost beautiful deep polish will be produced, and the plate will requirenothing more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry softcloth, before it is again put on the table. 

2319. For waiting at table, the housemaid should be neatly and cleanlydressed, and, if possible, her dress made with closed sleeves, the largeopen ones dipping and falling into everything on the table, and beingvery much in the way. She should not wear creaking boots, and shouldmove about the room as noiselessly as possible, anticipating people'swants by handing them things without being asked for them, andaltogether be as quiet as possible. It will be needless here to repeatwhat we have already said respecting waiting at table, in the duties ofthe butler and footman: rules that are good to be observed by them, areequally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid. 

2320. The housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table, willhand the soup, fish, meat, or side-dishes to the different members ofthe family; but in families who do not spend much of the day together, they will probably prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast; thehousemaid will be required, after all are helped, if her master does notwish her to stay in the room, to go on with her work of cleaning up inthe pantry, and answer the bell when rung. In this case she will place apile of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter, within reach of her masterand mistress, and leave the room. 

[Illustration: CRUMB-BRUSH]. 

2321. Dinner over, the housemaid removes the plates and dishes on thetray, places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them, folds up the napkins in the ring which indicates by which member of thefamily it has been used, brushes off the crumbs on the hand-tray keptfor the purpose, folds up the table-cloth in the folds already made, andplaces it in the linen-press to be smoothed out. After every meal thetable should be rubbed, all marks from hot plates removed, and thetable-cover thrown over, and the room restored to its usual order. Ifthe family retire to the drawing-room, or any other room, it is a goodpractice to throw up the sash to admit fresh air and ventilate the room. 

2322. The housemaid's evening service consists in washing up thedinner-things, the plate, plated articles, and glasses, restoringeverything to its place; cleaning up her pantry, and putting awayeverything for use when next required; lastly, preparing for tea, as thetime approaches, by setting the things out on the tray, getting the urnor kettle ready, with cream and other things usually partaken of at thatmeal. 

2323. In summer-time the windows of all the bedrooms, which have beenclosed during the heat of the day, should be thrown open for an hour orso after sunset, in order to air them. Before dark they should beclosed, the bedclothes turned down, and the night-clothes laid in orderfor use when required. During winter, where fires are required in thedressing-rooms, they should be lighted an hour before the usual time ofretiring, placing a fire-guard before each fire. At the same time, thenight-things on the horse should be placed before it to be aired, with atin can of hot water, if the mistress is in the habit of washing beforegoing to bed. We may add, that there is no greater preservative ofbeauty than washing the face every night in hot water. The housemaidwill probably be required to assist her mistress to undress and put herdress in order for the morrow; in which case her duties are very muchthose of the lady's-maid. 

2324. And now the fire is made up for the night, the fireguard replaced, and everything in the room in order for the night, the housemaid takingcare to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenientplace, should they be required. It is usual in summer to remove allhighly fragrant flowers from sleeping-rooms, the impression being thattheir scent is injurious in a close chamber. 

2325. On leisure days, the housemaid should be able to do someneedlework for her mistress, --such as turning and mending sheets anddarning the house linen, or assist her in anything she may think fit togive her to do. For this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid, in a small family, should be an expert needlewoman; as, if she be a goodmanager and an active girl, she will have time on her hands to getthrough plenty of work. 

2326. _Periodical Cleanings_. --Besides the daily routine which we havedescribed, there are portions of every house which can only bethoroughly cleaned occasionally; at which time the whole house usuallyundergoes a more thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way. On these occasions it is usual to begin at the top of the house andclean downwards; moving everything out of the room; washing thewainscoting or paint with soft soap and water; pulling down the beds andthoroughly cleansing all the joints; "scrubbing" the floor; beatingfeather beds, mattress, and paillasse, and thoroughly purifying everyarticle of furniture before it is put back in its place. 

2327. This general cleaning usually takes place in the spring or earlysummer, when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light andcheerful muslin curtains. Carpets are at the same time taken up andbeaten, except where the mistress of the house has been worried into anexperiment by the often-reiterated question, "Why beat your carpets?" Inthis case she will probably have made up her mind to try the cleaningprocess, and arranged with the company to send for them on the morningwhen cleaning commenced. It is hardly necessary to repeat, that on thisoccasion every article is to be gone over, the French-polished furniturewell rubbed and polished. The same thorough system of cleaning should bedone throughout the house; the walls cleaned where painted, and sweptdown with a soft broom or feather brush where papered; the window andbed curtains, which have been replaced with muslin ones, carefullybrushed, or, if they require it, cleaned; lamps not likely to berequired, washed out with hot water, dried, and cleaned. The severalgrates are now to be furnished with their summer ornaments; and we knownone prettier than the following, which the housemaid may provide at asmall expense to her mistress:--Purchase two yards and a half ofcrinoline muslin, and tear it into small strips, the selvage way of thematerial, about an inch wide; strip this thread by thread on each side, leaving the four centre threads; this gives about six-and-thirty pieces, fringed on each side, which are tied together at one end, and fastenedto the trap of the register, while the threads, unravelled, are spreadgracefully about the grate, the lower part of which is filled with papershavings. This makes a very elegant and very cheap ornament, which ismuch stronger, besides, than those usually purchased. 

[Illustration: CORNICE-BRUSH. ]

[Illustration: HOUSE-PAIL. ]

[Illustration: DUSTING-BRUSH. ]

2328. As winter approaches, this house-cleaning will have to berepeated, and the warm bed and window curtains replaced. The process ofscouring and cleaning is again necessary, and must be gone through, beginning at the top, and going through the house, down to the kitchens. 

2329. Independently of these daily and periodical cleanings, otheroccupations will present themselves from time to time, which thehousemaid will have to perform. When spots show on polished furniture, they can generally be restored by soap-and-water and a sponge, thepolish being brought out by using a little polish, and then well rubbingit. Again, drawers which draw out stiffly may be made to move moreeasily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little soap. 

2330. Chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected andreplaced, by means of a little glue applied to it. Liquid glue, which issold prepared in bottles, is very useful to have in the house, as itrequires no melting; and anything broken can be so quickly repaired. 

2331. Breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing thatcan happen in a family, and it is, probably, a greater annoyance to aright-minded servant than to the mistress. A neat-handed housemaid maysometimes repair these breakages, where they are not broken in veryconspicuous places, by joining the pieces very neatly together with acement made as follows:--Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantityof highly-rectified spirits of wine; then soften an ounce of isinglassin warm water, and, finally, dissolve it in rum or brandy, till it formsa thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and gum mastic together, adding aquarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum ammoniac; put the whole intoan earthen pipkin, and in a warm place, till they are thoroughlyincorporated together; pour it into a small phial, and cork it down foruse. 

2332. In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silverteaspoon over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or chinabeing warmed, and touched with the now liquid cement, join the partsneatly together, and hold in their places till the cement has set; thenwipe away the cement adhering to the edge of the joint, and leave it fortwelve hours without touching it: the joint will be as strong as thechina itself, and if neatly done, it will show no joining. It isessential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with hot or coldwater. 

USEFUL RECIPES FOR HOUSEMAIDS. 

To clean Marble. 

2333. Mix with 1/4 pint of soap lees, 1/2 gill of turpentine, sufficientpipe-clay and bullock's gall to make the whole into rather a thickpaste. Apply it to the marble with a soft brush, and after a day or two, when quite dry, rub it off with a soft rag. Apply this a second or thirdtime till the marble is quite clean. 

Another method. 

2334. Take two parts of soda, one of pumice-stone, and one offinely-powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix theminto a paste with water. Rub this well all over the marble, and thestains will be removed; then wash it with soap-and-water, and abeautiful bright polish will be produced. 

To clean Floorcloth. 

2335. After having washed the floorcloth in the usual manner with a dampflannel, wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth, when a most beautiful polish will be brought out. Some persons use forrubbing a well-waxed flannel; but this in general produces an unpleasantslipperiness, which is not the case with the milk. 

To clean Decanters. 

2336. Roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper; wetthem, and soap them well. Put them into the decanters about one quarterfull of warm water; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse withclear cold water; wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth, put thedecanters to drain, and when dry they will be almost as bright as newones. 

To brighten Gilt Frames. 

2337. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about1-1/2 pint of water, and in this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, when cold, wash, with a soft brush, any gilding which requiresrestoring, and when dry it will come out as bright as new work. 

To preserve bright Grates or Fire-irons from Rust. 

2338. Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine brushsmear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiringpreservation. By this simple means, all the grates and fire-irons in anempty house may be kept for months free from harm, without further careor attention. 

German Furniture-Gloss. 

2339. INGREDIENTS. --1/2 lb. Yellow wax, 1 oz. Black rosin, 2 oz. Of oilof turpentine. 

_Mode_. --Cut the wax into small pieces, and melt it in a pipkin, withthe rosin pounded very fine. Stir in gradually, while these twoingredients are quite warm, the oil of turpentine. Keep this compositionwell covered for use in a tin or earthen pot. A little of this glossshould be spread on a piece of coarse woollen cloth, and the furniturewell rubbed with it; afterwards it should be polished with a fine cloth. 

DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WORK. 

2340. The general servant, or maid-of-all-work, is perhaps the only oneof her class deserving of commiseration: her life is a solitary one, andin, some places, her work is never done. She is also subject to roughertreatment than either the house or kitchen-maid, especially in herearlier career: she starts in life, probably a girl of thirteen, withsome small tradesman's wife as her mistress, just a step above her inthe social scale; and although the class contains among them manyexcellent, kind-hearted women, it also contains some very roughspecimens of the feminine gender, and to some of these it occasionallyfalls to give our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifariousoccupations: the mistress's commands are the measure of themaid-of-all-work's duties. By the time she has become a tolerableservant, she is probably engaged in some respectable tradesman's house, where she has to rise with the lark, for she has to do in her own personall the work which in larger establishments is performed by cook, kitchen-maid, and housemaid, and occasionally the part of a footman'sduty, which consists in carrying messages. 

2341. The general servant's duties commence by opening the shutters (andwindows, if the weather permits) of all the lower apartments in thehouse; she should then brush up her kitchen-range, light the fire, clearaway the ashes, clean the hearth, and polish with a leather the brightparts of the range, doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible, that no more time be wasted than is necessary. After putting on thekettle, she should then proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get itin order for breakfast. She should first roll up the rug, take up thefender, shake and fold up the table-cloth, then sweep the room, carryingthe dirt towards the fireplace; a coarse cloth should then be laid downover the carpet, and she should proceed to clean the grate, having allher utensils close to her. When the grate is finished, the ashes clearedaway, the hearth cleaned, and the fender put back in its place, she mustdust the furniture, not omitting the legs of the tables and chairs; andif there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard, she must not dustround them, but lift them up on to another place, dust well where theyhave been standing, and then replace the things. Nothing annoys aparticular mistress so much as to find, when she comes down stairs, different articles of furniture looking as if they had never beendusted. If the servant is at all methodical, and gets into a habit of_doing_ a room in a certain way, she will scarcely ever leave her dutiesneglected. After the rug is put down, the table-cloth arranged, andeverything in order, she should lay the cloth for breakfast, and thenshut the dining-room door. 

2342. The hall must now be swept, the mats shaken, the door-stepcleaned, and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather. If the family breakfast very early, the tidying of the hall must then bedeferred till after that meal. After cleaning the boots that areabsolutely required, the servant should now wash her hands and face, puton a clean white apron, and be ready for her mistress when she comesdown stairs. In families where there is much work to do beforebreakfast, the master of the house frequently has two pairs of boots inwear, so that they may be properly cleaned when the servant has moretime to do them, in the daytime. This arrangement is, perhaps, scarcelynecessary in the summer-time, when there are no grates to clean everymorning; but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and thoughtfulto lighten a servant-of-all-work's duties as much as possible. 

[Illustration: BLACKING-BRUSH BOX. ]

2343. She will now carry the urn into the dining-room, where hermistress will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes will boil the eggs, to insure them being done to her liking. In the mean time the servantcooks, if required, the bacon, kidneys, fish, &c. ;--if cold meat is tobe served, she must always send it to table on a clean dish, and nicelygarnished with tufts of parsley, if this is obtainable. 

2344. After she has had her own breakfast, and whilst the family arefinishing theirs, she should go upstairs into the bedrooms, open all thewindows, strip the clothes off the beds, and leave them to air whilstshe is clearing away the breakfast things. She should then take up thecrumbs in a dustpan from under the table, put the chairs in theirplaces, and sweep up the hearth. 

2345. The breakfast things washed up, the kitchen should be tidied, sothat it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders forthe day: after receiving these orders, the servant should go upstairsagain, with a jug of boiling water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. Afteremptying the slops, and scalding the vessels with the boiling water, andwiping them thoroughly dry, she should wipe the top of the wash-tableand arrange it all in order. She then proceeds to make the beds, inwhich occupation she is generally assisted by the mistress, or, if shehave any daughters, by one of them. Before commencing to make the bed, the servant should put on a large bed-apron, kept for this purpose only, which should be made very wide, to button round the waist and meetbehind, while it should be made as long as the dress. By adopting thisplan, the blacks and dirt on servants' dresses (which at all times it isimpossible to help) will not rub off on to the bed-clothes, mattresses, and bed furniture. When the beds are made, the rooms should be dusted, the stairs lightly swept down, hall furniture, closets, &c. , dusted. Thelady of the house, where there is but one servant kept, frequently takescharge of the drawing-room herself, that is to say, dusting it; theservant sweeping, cleaning windows, looking-glasses, grates, and roughwork of that sort. If there are many ornaments and knick-knacks aboutthe room, it is certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself, as a maid-of-all-work's hands are not always in a condition to handledelicate ornaments. 

2346. Now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is inorder, the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of thedinner, in which very often her mistress will assist her. She should puton a coarse apron with a bib to do her dirty work in, which may beeasily replaced by a white one if required. 

2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should lay the cloth, that everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner, and take all into the dining-room that is likely to be required, in theway of knives, forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, &c. &c. By exercisinga little forethought, much confusion and trouble may be saved both tomistress and servant, by getting everything ready for the dinner in goodtime. 

2348. After taking in the dinner, when every one is seated, she removesthe covers, hands the plates round, and pours out the beer; and shouldbe careful to hand everything on the left side of the person she iswaiting on. 

2349. We need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in thedining-room during the whole of dinner-time, as she must dish up herpudding, or whatever is served after the first course. When she seesevery one helped, she should leave the room to make her preparations forthe next course; and anything that is required, such as bread, &c. , people may assist themselves to in the absence of the servant. 

2350. When the dinner things are cleared away, the servant should sweepup the crumbs in the dining-room, sweep the hearth, and lightly dust thefurniture, then sit down to her own dinner. 

[Illustration: KNIFE-CLEANING MACHINE]

2351. After this, she washes up and puts away the dinner things, sweepsthe kitchen, dusts and tidies it, and puts on the kettle for tea. Sheshould now, before dressing herself for the afternoon, clean her knives, boots, and shoes, and do any other dirty work in the scullery that maybe necessary. Knife-cleaning machines are rapidly taking the place, inmost households, of the old knife-board. The saving of labour by theknife-cleaner is very great, and its performance of the work is verysatisfactory. Small and large machines are manufactured, some cleaningonly four knives, whilst others clean as many as twelve at once. Nothingcan be more simple than the process of machine knife-cleaning; andalthough, in a very limited household, the substitution of the machinefor the board may not be necessary, yet we should advise allhousekeepers, to whom the outlay is not a difficulty, to availthemselves of the services of a machine. We have already spoken of itsmanagement in the "Duties of the Footman, " No. 2177. 

2352. When the servant is dressed, she takes in the tea, and after teaturns down the beds, sees that the water-jugs and bottles are full, closes the windows, and draws down the blinds. If the weather is verywarm, these are usually left open until the last thing at night, to coolthe rooms. 

2353. The routine of a general servant's duties depends upon the kind ofsituation she occupies; but a systematic maid-of-all-work should socontrive to divide her work, that every day in the week may have itsproper share. By this means she is able to keep the house clean withless fatigue to herself than if she left all the cleaning to do at theend of the week. Supposing there are five bedrooms in the house, twositting-rooms, kitchen, scullery, and the usual domestic offices:--onMonday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room; on Tuesday, two ofthe bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on Thursday, the other bedroom andstairs; on Friday morning she should sweep the dining-room verythoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon her kitchen tins andbright utensils. By arranging her work in this manner, no undueproportion will fall to Saturday's share, and she will then have thisday for cleaning plate, cleaning her kitchen, and arranging everythingin nice order. The regular work must, of course, be performed in theusual manner, as we have endeavoured to describe. 

2354. Before retiring to bed, she will do well to clean up glasses, plates, &c. Which have been used for the evening meal, and prepare forher morning's work by placing her wood near the fire, on the hob, todry, taking care there is no danger of it igniting, before she leavesthe kitchen for the night. Before retiring, she will have to lock andbolt the doors, unless the master undertakes this office himself. 

2355. If the washing, or even a portion of it, is done at home, it willbe impossible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household dutiesthoroughly, during the time it is about, unless she have someassistance. Usually, if all the washing is done at home, the mistresshires some one to assist at the wash-tub, and sees to little mattersherself, in the way of dusting, clearing away breakfast things, folding, starching, and ironing the fine things. With a little management muchcan be accomplished, provided the mistress be industrious, energetic, and willing to lend a helping hand. Let washing-week be not the excusefor having everything in a muddle; and although "things" cannot becleaned so thoroughly, and so much time spent upon them, as ordinarily, yet the house may be kept tidy and clear from litter without a greatdeal of exertion either on the part of the mistress or servant. We willconclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably-written book, called "Home Truths for Home Peace. " The authoress says, with respect tothe great wash--"Amongst all the occasions in which it is most difficultand glorious to keep muddle out of a family, 'the great wash' standspre-eminent; and as very little money is now saved by having_everything_ done at home, many ladies, with the option of takinganother servant or putting out the chief part of the washing, havethankfully adopted the latter course. " She goes on to say--"When agentleman who dines at home can't bear washing in the house, but gladlypays for its being done elsewhere, the lady should gratefully submit tohis wishes, and put out anything in her whole establishment rather thanput out a good and generous husband. "

2356. A bustling and active girl will always find time to do a littleneedlework for herself, if she lives with consistent and reasonablepeople. In the summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two orthree hours, and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days. Ageneral servant's duties are so multifarious, that unless she be quickand active, she will not be able to accomplish this. To discharge thesevarious duties properly is a difficult task, and sometimes a thanklessoffice; but it must be remembered that a good maid-of-all-work will makea good servant in any capacity, and may be safely taken not only withoutfear of failure, but with every probability of giving satisfaction toher employer. 

DUTIES OF THE DAIRY-MAID. 

2357. The duties of the dairy-maid differ considerably in differentdistricts. In Scotland, Wales, and some of the northern counties, womenmilk the cows. On some of the large dairy farms in other parts ofEngland, she takes her share in the milking, but in private families themilking is generally performed by the cowkeeper, and the dairy-maid onlyreceives the milkpails from him morning and night, and empties andcleans them preparatory to the next milking; her duty being to supplythe family with milk, cream, and butter, and other luxuries depending onthe "milky mothers" of the herd. 

 2358. _The Dairy. _--The object with which gentlemen keep cows is to procure milk unadulterated, and sweet butter, for themselves and families: in order to obtain this, however, great cleanliness is required, and as visitors, as well as the mistress of the house, sometimes visit the dairy, some efforts are usually made to render it ornamental and picturesque. The locality is usually fixed near to the house; it should neither be exposed to the fierce heat of the summer's sun nor to the equally unfavourable frosts of winter--it must be both sheltered and shaded. If it is a building apart from the house and other offices, the walls should be tolerably thick, and if hollow, the temperature will be more equable. The walls inside are usually covered with Dutch glazed tiles; the flooring also of glazed tiles set in asphalte, to resist water; and the ceiling, lath and plaster, or closely-jointed woodwork, painted. Its architecture will be a matter of fancy: it should have a northern aspect, and a thatched roof is considered most suitable, from the shade and shelter it affords; and it should contain at least two apartments, besides a cool place for storing away butter. One of the apartments, in which the milk is placed to deposit cream, or to ripen for churning, is usually surrounded by shelves of marble or slate, on which the milk-dishes rest; but it will be found a better plan to have a large square or round table of stone in the centre, with a water-tight ledge all round it, in which water may remain in hot weather, or, if some attempt at the picturesque is desired, a small fountain might occupy the centre, which would keep the apartment cool and fresh. Round this table the milk-dishes should be ranged; one shelf, or dresser, of slate or marble, being kept for the various occupations of the dairy-maid: it will be found a better plan than putting them on shelves and corners against the wall. There should be a funnel or ventilator in the ceiling, communicating with the open air, made to open and shut as required. Double windows are recommended, but of the lattice kind, so that they may open, and with wire-gauze blinds fitted into the opening, and calico blinds, which may be wetted when additional coolness is required. The other apartment will be used for churning, washing, and scrubbing--in fact, the scullery of the dairy, with a boiler for hot water, and a sink with cold water laid on, which should be plentiful and good. In some dairies a third apartment, or, at least, a cool airy pantry, is required for storing away butter, with shelves of marble or slate, to hold the cream-jars while it is ripening; and where cheeses are made, a fourth becomes necessary. The dairy utensils are not numerous, --_churns_, _milk-pails_ for each cow, _hair-sieves_, _slices of tin_, milk-pans, marble dishes for cream for family use, scales and weights, a portable rack for drying the utensils, _wooden bowls_, butter-moulds and butter-patters, and _wooden tubs_ for washing the utensils, comprising pretty nearly everything. 

 2359. _Pails_ are made of maple-wood or elm, and hooped, or of tin, more or less ornamented. One is required for each cow. 

 2360. The _Hair-Sieve_ is made of closely-twisted horse-hair, with a rim, through which the milk is strained to remove any hairs which may have dropped from the cow in milking. 

 2361. _Milk-Dishes_ are shallow basins of glass, of glazed earthenware, or tin, about 16 inches in diameter at top, and 12 at the bottom, and 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8 to 10 quarts each when full. 

 2362. _Churns_ are of all sorts and sizes, from that which churns 70 or 80 gallons by means of a strap from the engine, to the square box in which a pound of butter is made. The churn used for families is a square box, 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17 deep, bevelled below to the plane of the _dashers_, with a loose lid or cover. The dasher consists of an axis of wood, to which the four beaters or fanners are attached; these fans are simply four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together, forming an oblong square, with a space left open, two of the openings being left broader than the others; attached to an axle, they form an axis with four projecting blades; the axle fits into supports at the centre of the box; a handle is fitted to it, and the act of churning is done by turning the handle. 

 2363. Such is the temple in which the dairy-maid presides: it should be removed both from stable and cowhouse, and larder; no animal smells should come near it, and the drainage should be perfect. 

2364. The dairy-maid receives the milk from the cowkeeper, each pailbeing strained through the hair-sieve into one of the milk-basins. Thisis left in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in thesummer, according to the weather; after which it is skimmed off by meansof the slicer, and poured into glazed earthenware jars to "turn" forchurning. Some persons prefer making up a separate churning for the milkof each cow; in which there is some advantage. In this case the basinsof each cow, for two days, would either be kept together or labelled. Assoon as emptied, the pails should be scalded and every particle of milkwashed out, and placed away in a dry place till next required; and allmilk spilt on the floor, or on the table or dresser, cleaned up with acloth and hot water. Where very great attention is paid to the dairy, the milk-coolers are used larger in winter, when it is desirable toretard the cooling down and increase the creamy deposit, and smaller insummer, to hasten it; the temperature required being from 55° to 50°, Insummer it is sometimes expedient, in very sultry weather, to keep thedairy fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of limeacross the room. 

2365. In some dairies it is usual to churn twice, and in others threetimes a week: the former produces the best butter, the other thegreatest quantity. With three cows, the produce should be 27 to 30quarts a day. The dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot, ifthey are in full milk, and every second day in more temperate weather;besides supplying the milk and cream required for a large establishment. The churning should always be done in the morning: the dairy-maid willfind it advantageous in being at work on churning mornings by fiveo'clock. The operation occupies from 20 minutes to half an hour insummer, and considerably longer in winter. A steady uniform motion isnecessary to produce sweet butter; neither too quick nor too slow. Rapidmotion causes the cream to heave and swell, from too much air beingforced into it: the result is a tedious churning, and soft, bad-colouredbutter. 

2366. In spring and summer, when the cow has her natural food, noartificial colour is required; but in winter, under stall-feeding, thecolour is white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour. This is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with thecream before putting it into the churn; a still more, natural anddelicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a cleanpiece of linen cloth, dipping it into water, and squeezing it into thecream. 

2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and thebutter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water, in which it is washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewingit until it comes away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing isthe frequent cause of bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of thedairy-maid tested more than in this process; moreover, it is one inwhich cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary. In thisoperation we want the aid of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly cleanhand; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sourparticles of milk or curd. 

2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milkis disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a, very wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; thedisposal, therefore, will rest with the mistress: the dairy-maid's dutyis to get rid of it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrubout every utensil she has used; brush out the churn, clean out thecream-jars, which will probably require the use of a little common sodato purify; wipe all dry, and place them in a position where the sun canreach them for a short time, to sweeten them. 

 2369. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk is always scalded. The milk-pans, which are of tin, and contain from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12 hours, are placed on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed on the surface, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising through the milk, and producing blisters on the surface-coating of cream. This indicates its approach to the boiling point: and the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is, quite cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice: it is now the clouted cream for which Devonshire is so famous. It is now placed in the churn, and churned until the butter comes, which it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other process. The butter so made contains more _caseine_ than butter made in the usual way, but does not keep so long. 

2370. It is a question frequently discussed, how far it is economicalfor families to keep cows and make their own butter. It is calculatedthat a good cow costs from May 1 to October 1, when well buteconomically kept, £5. 16s. 6d; and from October 1 to April 30, £10. 2s. 6d. During that time she should produce 227 lbs. Of butter, besides theskimmed milk. Of course, if new milk and cream are required, that willdiminish the quantity of butter. 

2371. Besides churning and keeping her dairy in order, the dairy-maidhas charge of the whole produce, handing it over to the cook, butler, orhousemaid as required; and she will do well to keep an exact accountboth of what she receives and how and when she disposes of it. 

DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID. 

2372. The laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing andgetting-up the family linen, --a situation of great importance where thewashing is all done at home; but in large towns, where there is littleconvenience for bleaching and drying, it is chiefly done by professionallaundresses and companies, who apply mechanical and chemical processesto the purpose. These processes, however, are supposed to injure thefabric of the linen; and in many families the fine linen, cottons, andmuslins, are washed and got-up at home, even where the bulk of thewashing is given out. In country and suburban houses, where greaterconveniences exist, washing at home is more common, --in country placesuniversal. 

2373. The laundry establishment consists of a washing-house, an ironingand drying-room, and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces. Thewashing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen; but it is betterthat it should be completely detached from it, and of one story, with afunnel or shaft to carry off the steam. It will be of a sizeproportioned to the extent of the washing to be done. A range of tubs, either round or oblong, opposite to, and sloping towards, the light, narrower at the bottom than the top, for convenience in stooping over, and fixed at a height suited to the convenience of the women using them;each tub having a tap for hot and cold water, and another in the bottom, communicating with the drains, for drawing off foul water. A boiler andfurnace, proportioned in size to the wants of the family, should also befixed. The flooring should be York stone, laid on brick piers, with gooddrainage, or asphalte, sloping gently towards a gutter connected withthe drain. 

2374. Adjoining the bleaching-house, a second room, about the same size, is required for ironing, drying, and mangling. The contents of this roomshould comprise an ironing-board, opposite to the light; a strong whitedeal table, about twelve or fourteen feet long, and about three and ahalf feet broad, with drawers for ironing-blankets; a mangle in onecorner, and clothes-horses for drying and airing; cupboards for holdingthe various irons, starch, and other articles used in ironing; ahot-plate built in the chimney, with furnace beneath it for heating theirons; sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying the hot air round theroom for drying. Where this is the case, however, there should be afunnel in the ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam; but abetter arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining, heated byhot-air pipes, and lined with iron, with proper arrangements forcarrying off steam, and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves, torun into it for drying purposes. This leaves the laundry free fromunwholesome vapour. 

2375. The laundry-maid should commence her labours on Monday morning bya careful examination of the articles committed to her care, and enterthem in the washing-book; separating the white linen and collars, sheetsand body-linen, into one heap, fine muslins into another, colouredcotton and linen fabrics into a third, woollens into a fourth, and thecoarser kitchen and other greasy cloths into a fifth. Every articleshould be examined for ink- or grease-spots, or for fruit- orwine-stains. Ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot water, and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon, pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink-spot, rubbing and rinsing it in cold water till removed; grease-spots, byrubbing over with yellow soap, and rinsing in hot water; fruit- andwine-spots, by dipping in a solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine, and rinsing. 

2376. Every article having been examined and assorted, the sheets andfine linen should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered withlukewarm water, in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed, andleft there to soak till the morning. The greasy cloths and dirtierthings should be laid to soak in another tub, in a liquor composed of1/2 lb. Of unslaked lime to every 6 quarts of water which has beenboiled for two hours, then left to settle, and strained off when clear. Each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it thoroughly, andleft to soak till the morning, just covered by it when the things arepressed together. Coppers and boilers should now be filled, and thefires laid ready to light. 

2377. Early on the following morning the fires should be lighted, and assoon as hot water can be procured, washing commenced; the sheets andbody-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning, should be taken first;each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it hasbeen soaking, rinsed, rubbed, and wrung, and laid aside until the tub isempty, when the foul water is drawn off. The tub should be again filledwith luke-warm water, about 80°, in which the articles should again beplunged, and each gone over carefully with soap, and rubbed. Novices inthe art sometimes rub the linen against the skin; more experiencedwasherwomen rub one linen surface against the other, which saves theirhands, and enables them to continue their labour much longer, besideseconomizing time, two parts being thus cleaned at once. 

2378. After this first washing, the linen should be put into a secondwater as hot as the hand can bear, and again rubbed over in every part, examining every part for spots not yet moved, which require to be againsoaped over and rubbed till thoroughly clean; then rinsed and wrung, thelarger and stronger articles by two of the women; the smaller and moredelicate articles requiring gentler treatment. 

2379. In order to remove every particle of soap, and produce a goodcolour, they should now be placed, and boiled for about an hour and ahalf in the copper, in which soda, in the proportion of a teaspoonful toevery two gallons of water, has been dissolved. Some very carefullaundresses put the linen into a canvas bag to protect it from the scumand the sides of the copper. When taken out, it should again be rinsed, first in clean hot water, and then in abundance of cold water slightlytinged with fig-blue, and again wrung dry. It should now be removed fromthe washing-house and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach, if thereare conveniences for it; and the earlier in the day this is done, theclearer and whiter will be the linen. 

2380. Coloured muslins, cottons, and linens, require a milder treatment;any application of soda will discharge the colour, and soaking allnight, even in pure water, deteriorates the more delicate tints. Whenready for washing, if not too dirty, they should be put into cold waterand washed very speedily, using the common yellow soap, which should berinsed off immediately. One article should be washed at a time, andrinsed out immediately before any others are wetted. When washedthoroughly, they should be rinsed in succession in soft water, in whichcommon salt has been dissolved, in the proportion of a handful to threeor four gallons, and afterwards wrung gently, as soon as rinsed, with aslittle twisting as possible, and then hung out to dry. Delicate-colouredarticles should not be exposed to the sun, but dried in the shade, usingclean lines and wooden pegs. 

2381. Woollen articles are liable to shrink, unless the flannel has beenwell shrunk before making up. This liability is increased where very hotwater is used: cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in;but, as this would not remove the dirt, lukewarm water, about 85°, andyellow soap, are recommended. When thoroughly washed in this, theyrequire a good deal of rinsing in cold water, to remove the soap. 

2382. Greasy cloths, which have soaked all night in the liquiddescribed, should be now washed out with soap-and-water as hot as thehands can bear, first in one water, and rinsed out in a second; andafterwards boiled for two hours in water in which a little soda isdissolved. When taken out, they should be rinsed in cold water, and laidout or hung up to dry. 

2383. Silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone. When they containsnuff, they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two orthree hours; they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the othersin cold water for an hour or two; then washed in lukewarm water, beingsoaped as they are washed. If this does not remove all stains, theyshould be washed a second time in similar water, and, when finished, rinsed in soft water in which a handful of common salt has beendissolved. In washing stuff or woollen dresses, the band at the waistand the lining at the bottom should be removed, and wherever it isgathered into folds; and, in furniture, the hems and gatherings. A blacksilk dress, if very dirty, must be washed; but, if only soiled, soakingfor four-and-twenty hours will do; if old and rusty, a pint of commonspirits should be mixed with each gallon of water, which is animprovement under any circumstances. Whether soaked or washed, it shouldbe hung up to drain, and dried without wringing. 

2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and coloured, may be cleaned inthe same manner. 

2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade, on alinen-horse, taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled. Ifblack or blue, they will be improved if laid again on the table, whendry, and sponged with gin, or whiskey, or other white spirit. 

2386. The operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs, cleaningthe coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing-house, and restoringeverything to order and cleanliness. 

2387. Thursday and Friday, in a laundry in full employ, are usuallydevoted to mangling, starching, and ironing. 

2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried, are made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing. The manglingprocess, which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to avery considerable pressure, produced by weight, is confined to sheets, towels, table-linen, and similar articles, which are without folds orplaits. Ironing is necessary to smooth body-linen, and made-up articlesof delicate texture or gathered into folds. The mangle is too well knownto need description. 

 2389. _Ironing_. --The irons consist of the common flat-iron, which is of different sizes, varying from 4 to 10 inches in length, triangular in form, and from 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches in width at the broad end; the oval iron, which is used for more delicate articles; and the box-iron, which is hollow, and heated by a red-hot iron inserted into the box. The Italian iron is a hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and raised on a slender pedestal with a footstalk. Into the hollow cylinder a red-hot iron is pushed, which heats it; and the smooth outside of the latter is used, on which articles such as frills, and plaited articles, are drawn. Crimping- and gauffering-machines are used for a kind of plaiting where much regularity is required, the articles being passed through two iron rollers fluted so as to represent the kind of plait or fold required. 

2390. Starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated tocertain parts of linen, as the collar and front of shirts, by dippingthem in a paste made of starch boiled in water, mixed with a little gumArabic, where extra stiffness is required. 

TO MAKE STARCH. 

2391. INGREDIENTS. --Allow 1/2 pint of cold water and 1 quart of boilingwater to every 2 tablespoonfuls of starch. 

_Mode_. --Put the starch into a tolerably large basin; pour over it thecold water, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it isperfectly free from lumps, and quite smooth. Then take the basin to thefire, and whilst the water is _actually boiling_ in the kettle orboiler, pour it over the starch, stirring it the whole time. If madeproperly in this manner, the starch will require no further boiling; butshould the water not be boiling when added to the starch, it will notthicken, and must be put into a clean saucepan, and stirred over thefire until it boils. Take it off the fire, strain it into a clean basin, cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top, and, when sufficientlycool that the hand may be borne in it, starch the things. Many persons, to give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed, stirround two or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle, which alsoprevents the iron from sticking. 

2392. When the "things to be starched" are washed, dried, and taken offthe lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed, squeezed out of it, and then just dipped into cold water, andimmediately squeezed dry. If fine things be wrung, or roughly used, theyare very liable to tear; so too much care cannot be exercised in thisrespect. If the article is lace, clap it between the hands a few times, which will assist to clear it; then have ready laid out on the table alarge clean towel or cloth; shake out the starched things, lay them onthe cloth, and roll it up tightly, and let it remain for three or fours, when the things will be ready to iron. 

2393. To be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience. Strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed, as, if this is not the case, not the most expert ironer will be able to makeher things look clear and free from smears, &c. After wiping down herironing table, the laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it, andover that the ironing-blanket, with her stand and iron-rubber; andhaving ascertained that her irons are quite clean and of the right heat, she proceeds with her work. 

2394. It is a good plan to try the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth orapron before ironing anything fine: there is then no danger ofscorching. For ironing fine things, such as collars, cuffs, muslins, andlaces, there is nothing so clean and nice to use as the box-iron; thebottom being bright, and never placed near the fire, it is alwaysperfectly clean; it should, however, be kept in a dry place, for fear ofits rusting. Gauffering-tongs or irons must be placed in a clear firefor a minute, then withdrawn, wiped with a coarse rubber, and the heatof them tried on a piece of paper, as, unless great care is taken, thesewill very soon scorch. 

2395. The skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-boardcovered with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, alsocovered with flannel; this board being placed between the back andfront. 

2396. After things are mangled, they should also be ironed in the foldsand gathers; dinner-napkins smoothed over, as also table-cloths, pillow-cases, and sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats, andshoulder-straps to flannel waistcoats, must also undergo the sameprocess. 

UPPER AND UNDER NURSEMAIDS. 

2397. The nursery is of great importance in every family, and infamilies of distinction, where there are several young children, it isan establishment kept apart from the rest of the family, under thecharge of an upper nurse, assisted by under nursery-maids proportionedto the work to be done. The responsible duties of upper nursemaidcommence with the weaning of the child: it must now be separated fromthe mother or wet-nurse, at least for a time, and the cares of thenursemaid, which have hitherto been only occasionally put inrequisition, are now to be entirely devoted to the infant. She washes, dresses, and feeds it; walks out with it, and regulates all its littlewants; and, even at this early age, many good qualities are required todo so in a satisfactory manner. Patience and good temper areindispensable qualities; truthfulness, purity of manners, minutecleanliness, and docility and obedience, almost equally so. She oughtalso to be acquainted with the art of ironing and trimming little caps, and be handy with her needle. 

 2398. There is a considerable art in carrying an infant comfortably for itself and for the nursemaid. If she carry it always seated upright on her arm, and presses it too closely against her chest, the stomach of the child is apt to get compressed, and the back fatigued. For her own comfort, a good nurse will frequently vary this position, by changing from one arm to the other, and sometimes by laying it across both, raising the head a little. When teaching it to walk, and guiding it by the hand, she should change the hand from time to time, so as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other. This is the only way in which a child should be taught to walk; leading-strings and other foolish inventions, which force an infant to make efforts, with its shoulders and head forward, before it knows how to use its limbs, will only render it feeble, and retard its progress. 

 2399. Most children have some bad habit, of which they must be broken; but this is never accomplished by harshness without developing worse evils: kindness, perseverance, and patience in the nurse, are here of the utmost importance. When finger-sucking is one of these habits, the fingers are sometimes rubbed with bitter aloes, or some equally disagreeable substance. Others have dirty habits, which are only to be changed by patience, perseverance, and, above all, by regularity in the nurse. She should never be permitted to inflict punishment on these occasions, or, indeed, on any occasion. But, if punishment is to be avoided, it is still more necessary that all kinds of indulgences and flattery be equally forbidden. Yielding to all the whims of a child, --picking up its toys when thrown away in mere wantonness, would be intolerable. A child should never be led to think others inferior to it, to beat a dog, or even the stone against which it falls, as some children are taught to do by silly nurses. Neither should the nurse affect or show alarm at any of the little accidents which must inevitably happen: if it falls, treat it as a trifle; otherwise she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity. But she will take care that such accidents are not of frequent occurrence, or the result of neglect. 

 2400. The nurse should keep the child as clean as possible, and particularly she should train it to habits of cleanliness, so that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise; watching especially that it does not soil itself in eating. At the same time, vanity in its personal appearance is not to be encouraged by over-care in this respect, or by too tight lacing or buttoning of dresses, nor a small foot cultivated by the use of tight shoes. 

 2401. Nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents faithfully and truly the defects they observe in the dispositions of very young children. If properly checked in time, evil propensities may be eradicated; but this should not extend to anything but serious defects; otherwise, the intuitive perceptions which all children possess will construe the act into "spying" and "informing, " which should never be resorted to in the case of children, nor, indeed, in any case. 

2402. Such are the cares which devolve upon the nursemaid, and it is herduty to fulfil them personally. In large establishments she will haveassistants proportioned to the number of children of which she has thecare. The under nursemaid lights the fires, sweeps, scours, and duststhe rooms, and makes the beds; empties slops, and carries up water;brings up and removes the nursery meals; washes and dresses all thechildren, except the infant, and assists in mending. Where there is anursery girl to assist, she does the rougher part of the cleaning; andall take their meals in the nursery together, after the children of thefamily have done. 

2403. In smaller families, where there is only one nursemaid kept, sheis assisted by the housemaid, or servant-of-all-work, who will do therougher part of the work, and carry up the nursery meals. In suchcircumstances she will be more immediately under the eye of hermistress, who will probably relieve her from some of the cares of theinfant. In higher families, the upper nurse is usually permitted to supor dine occasionally at the housekeeper's table by way of relaxation, when the children are all well, and her subordinates trustworthy. 

2404. Where the nurse has the entire charge of the nursery, and themother is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it, itis desirable that she be a person of observation, and possess someacquaintance with the diseases incident to childhood, as also with suchsimple remedies as may be useful before a medical attendant can beprocured, or where such attendance is not considered necessary. Allthese little ailments are preceded by symptoms so minute as to be onlyperceptible to close observation; such as twitching of the brows, restless sleep, grinding the gums, and, in some inflammatory diseases, even to the child abstaining from crying, from fear of the increasedpain produced by the movement. Dentition, or cutting the teeth, isattended with many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlatina, croup, hooping-cough, and other childish complaints, are all preceded bywell-known symptoms, which may be alleviated and rendered less virulentby simple remedies instantaneously applied. 

2405. _Dentition_ is usually the first serious trouble, bringing manyother disorders in its train. The symptoms are most perceptible to themother: the child sucks feebly, and with gums hot, inflamed, andswollen. In this case, relief is yielded by rubbing them from time totime with a little of Mrs. Johnson's soothing syrup, a valuable andperfectly safe medicine. Selfish and thoughtless nurses, and motherstoo, sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts, whose effects aretoo well known. 

2406. _Convulsion Fits_ sometimes follow the feverish restlessnessproduced by these causes; in which case a hot bath should beadministered without delay, and the lower parts of the body rubbed, thebath being as hot as it can be without scalding the tender skin; at thesame time, the doctor should be sent for immediately, for no nurseshould administer medicine in this case, unless the fits have beenrepeated and the doctor has left directions with her how to act. 

2407. _Croup_ is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood; it isaccompanied with a hoarse, croaking, ringing cough, and comes on verysuddenly, and most so in strong, robust children. A very hot bath shouldbe instantly administered, followed by an emetic, either in the form oftartar-emetic, croup-powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha, wrappingthe body warmly up in flannel after the bath. The slightest delay inadministering the bath, or the emetic, may be fatal; hence, theimportance of nurses about very young children being acquainted with thesymptoms. 

2408. _Hooping-Cough_ is generally preceded by the moaning noise duringsleep, which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid: itis followed by violent fits of coughing, which little can be done torelieve. A child attacked by this disorder should be kept as much aspossible in the fresh, pure air, but out of draughts, and kept warm, andsupplied with plenty of nourishing food. Many fatal diseases flow fromthis scourge of childhood, and a change to purer air, if possible, should follow convalescence. 

2409. _Worms_ are the torment of some children: the symptoms are, anunnatural craving for food, even after a full meal; costiveness, suddenly followed by the reverse; fetid breath, a livid circle under theeyes, enlarged abdomen, and picking the nose; for which the remediesmust be prescribed by the doctor. 

2410. _Measles_ and _Scarlatina_ much resemble each other in their earlystages: headache, restlessness, and fretfulness are the symptoms ofboth. Shivering fits, succeeded by a hot skin; pains in the back andlimbs, accompanied by sickness, and, in severe cases, sore throat; painabout the jaws, difficulty in swallowing, running at the eyes, whichbecome red and inflamed, while the face is hot and flushed, oftendistinguish scarlatina and scarlet fever, of which it is only a mildform. 

2411. While the case is doubtful, a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitrediluted in water, given at bedtime, will throw the child into a gentleperspiration, and will bring out the rash in either case. In measles, this appears first on the face; in scarlatina, on the chest; and in bothcases a doctor should be called in. In scarlatina, tartar-emetic powderor ipecacuanha may be administered in the mean time. 

2412. In all cases, cleanliness, fresh air, clean utensils, and frequentwashing of the person, both of nurse and children, are even morenecessary in the nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room, inasmuch as the delicate organs of childhood are more susceptible ofinjury from smells and vapours than adults. 

2413. It may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of theduties of a nursemaid, by an extract from Florence Nightingale'sadmirable "Notes on Nursing. " Referring to children, she says:--

 2414. "They are much more susceptible than grown people to all noxious influences. They are affected by the same things, but much more quickly and seriously; by want of fresh air, of proper warmth; want of cleanliness in house, clothes, bedding, or body; by improper food, want of punctuality, by dulness, by want of light, by too much or too little covering in bed or when up. " And all this in health; and then she quotes a passage from a lecture on sudden deaths in infancy, to show the importance of careful nursing of children:--"In the great majority of instances, when death suddenly befalls the infant or young child, it is an _accident_; it is not a necessary, inevitable result of any disease. That which is known to injure children most seriously is foul air; keeping the rooms where they sleep closely shut up is destruction to them; and, if the child's breathing be disordered by disease, a few hours only of such foul air may endanger its life, even where no inconvenience is felt by grown-up persons in the room. "

 2415. Persons moving in the beat society will see, after perusing Miss Nightingale's book, that this "foul air, " "want of light, " "too much or too little clothing, " and improper food, is not confined to Crown Street or St. Giles's; that Belgravia and the squares have their north room, where the rays of the sun never reach. "A wooden bedstead, two or three mattresses piled up to above the height of the table, a vallance attached to the frame, --nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air such a bed and bedding, "--is the ordinary bed of a private house, than which nothing can be more unwholesome. "Don't treat your children like sick, " she sums up; "don't dose them with tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light beer. Give them fresh, light, sunny, and open rooms, cool bedrooms, plenty of outdoor exercise, facing even the cold, and wind, and weather, in sufficiently warm clothes, and with sufficient exercise, plenty of amusements and play; more liberty, and less schooling, and cramming, and training; more attention to food and less to physic. "

DUTIES OF THE SICK-NURSE. 

2416. All women are likely, at some period of their lives, to be calledon to perform the duties of a sick-nurse, and should prepare themselvesas much as possible, by observation and reading, for the occasion whenthey may be required to perform the office. The main requirements aregood temper, compassion for suffering, sympathy with sufferers, whichmost women worthy of the name possess, neat-handedness, quiet manners, love of order, and cleanliness. With these qualifications there will bevery little to be wished for; the desire to relieve suffering willinspire a thousand little attentions, and surmount the disgusts whichsome of the offices attending the sick-room are apt to create. Whereserious illness visits a household, and protracted nursing is likely tobecome necessary, a professional nurse will probably be engaged, who hasbeen trained to its duties; but in some families, and those not a fewlet us hope, the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangementas a failure of duty on their part. There is, besides, even when aprofessional nurse is ultimately called in, a period of doubt andhesitation, while disease has not yet developed itself, when the patientmust be attended to; and, in these cases, some of the female servants ofthe establishment must give their attendance in the sick-room. Thereare, also, slight attacks of cold, influenza, and accidents in athousand forms, to which all are subject, where domestic nursing becomesa necessity; where disease, though unattended with danger, isnevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness, and when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary. 

2417. In the first stage of sickness, while doubt and a littleperplexity hang over the household as to the nature of the sickness, there are some things about which no doubt can exist: the patient's roommust be kept in a perfectly pure state, and arrangements made for properattendance; for the first canon of nursing, according to FlorenceNightingale, its apostle, is to "keep the air the patient breathes aspure as the external air, without chilling him. " This can be donewithout any preparation which might alarm the patient; with properwindows, open fireplaces, and a supply of fuel, the room may be as freshas it is outside, and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient'sstate. 

2418. Windows, however, must be opened from above, and not from below, and draughts avoided; cool air admitted beneath the patient's headchills the lower strata and the floor. The careful nurse will keep thedoor shut when the window is open; she will also take care that thepatient is not placed between the door and the open window, nor betweenthe open fireplace and the window. If confined to bed, she will see thatthe bed is placed in a thoroughly ventilated part of the room, but outof the current of air which is produced by the momentary opening ofdoors, as well as out of the line of draught between the window and theopen chimney, and that the temperature of the room is kept about 64°. Where it is necessary to admit air by the door, the windows should beclosed; but there are few circumstances in which good air can beobtained through the chamber-door; through it, on the contrary, thegases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to be drawninto the invalid chamber. 

2419. These precautions taken, and plain nourishing diet, such as thepatient desires, furnished, probably little more can be done, unlessmore serious symptoms present themselves; in which case medical advicewill be sought. 

2420. Under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room soessential as in cases of febrile diseases, usually consideredinfectious; such as typhus and puerperal fevers, influenza, hooping-cough, small- and chicken-pox, scarlet fever, measles, anderysipelas: all these are considered communicable through the air; butthere is little danger of infection being thus communicated, providedthe room is kept thoroughly ventilated. On the contrary, if thisessential be neglected, the power of infection is greatly increased andconcentrated in the confined and impure air; it settles upon the clothesof the attendants and visitors, especially where they are of wool, andis frequently communicated to other families in this manner. 

2421. Under all circumstances, therefore, the sick-room should be keptas fresh and sweet as the open air, while the temperature is kept up byartificial heat, taking care that the fire burns clear, and gives out nosmoke into the room; that the room is perfectly clean, wiped over with adamp cloth every day, if boarded; and swept, after sprinkling with damptea-leaves, or other aromatic leaves, if carpeted; that all utensils areemptied and cleaned as soon as used, and not once in four-and-twentyhours, as is sometimes done. "A slop-pail, " Miss Nightingale says, "should never enter a sick-room; everything should be carried direct tothe water-closet, emptied there, and brought up clean; in the besthospitals the slop-pail is unknown. " "I do not approve, " says MissNightingale, "of making housemaids of nurses, --that would be waste ofmeans; but I have seen surgical sisters, women whose hands were worth tothem two or three guineas a week, down on their knees, scouring a roomor hut, because they thought it was not fit for their patients: thesewomen had the true nurse spirit. "

2422. Bad smells are sometimes met by sprinkling a little liquidchloride of lime on the floor; fumigation by burning pastiles is also acommon expedient for the purification of the sick-room. They are useful, but only in the sense hinted at by the medical lecturer, who commencedhis lecture thus:--"Fumigations, gentlemen, are of essential importance;they make so abominable a smell, that they compel you to open thewindows and admit fresh air. " In this sense they are useful, butineffectual unless the cause be removed, and fresh air admitted. 

2423. The sick-room should be quiet; no talking, no gossiping, and, above all, no whispering, --this is absolute cruelty to the patient; hethinks his complaint the subject, and strains his ear painfully to catchthe sound. No rustling of dresses, nor creaking shoes either; where thecarpets are taken up, the nurse should wear list shoes, or some othernoiseless material, and her dress should be of soft material that doesnot rustle. Miss Nightingale denounces crinoline, and quotes LordMelbourne on the subject of women in the sick-room, who said, "I wouldrather have men about me, when ill, than women; it requires very stronghealth to put up with women. " Ungrateful man! but absolute quiet isnecessary in the sick-room. 

2424. Never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise, never roused by anything like a surprise. Always sit in the apartment, so that the patient has you in view, and that it is not necessary forhim to turn in speaking to you. Never keep a patient standing; neverspeak to one while moving. Never lean on the sick-bed. Above all, becalm and decisive with the patient, and prevent all noises over-head. 

2425. A careful nurse, when a patient leaves his bed, will open thesheets wide, and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed;She will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room. 

2426. "It is another fallacy, " says Florence Nightingale, "to supposethat night air is injurious; a great authority told me that, in London, the air is never so good as after ten o'clock, when smoke hasdiminished; but then it must be air from without, not within, and notair vitiated by gaseous airs. " "A great fallacy prevails also, " shesays, in another section, "about flowers poisoning the air of thesick-room: no one ever saw them over-crowding the sick-room; but, ifthey did, they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off oxygen. " Cutflowers also decompose water, and produce oxygen gas. Lilies, and someother very odorous plants, may perhaps give out smells unsuited to aclose room, while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be freshand natural. 

2427. "Patients, " says Miss Nightingale, "are sometimes starved in themidst of plenty, from want of attention to the ways which alone make itpossible for them to take food. A spoonful of beef-tea, or arrowroot andwine, or some other light nourishing diet, should be given every hour, for the patient's stomach will reject large supplies. In very weakpatients there is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing, which ismuch increased if food is not ready and presented at the moment when itis wanted: the nurse should be able to discriminate, and know when thismoment is approaching. "

2428. Diet suitable for patients will depend, in some degree, on theirnatural likes and dislikes, which the nurse will do well to acquaintherself with. Beef-tea is useful and relishing, but possesses littlenourishment; when evaporated, it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat toa pint of water. Eggs are not equivalent to the same weight of meat. Arrowroot is less nourishing than flour. Butter is the lightest and mostdigestible kind of fat. Cream, in some diseases, cannot be replaced. But, to sum up with some of Miss Nightingale's useful maxims:--Observationis the nurse's best guide, and the patient's appetite the rule. Half apint of milk is equal to a quarter of a pound of meat. Beef-tea is theleast nourishing food administered to the sick; and tea and coffee, shethinks, are both too much excluded from the sick-room. 

THE MONTHLY NURSE. 

2429. The choice of a monthly nurse is of the utmost importance; and inthe case of a young mother with her first child, it would be well forher to seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives inthis matter. In the first place, the engaging a monthly nurse in goodtime is of the utmost importance, as, if she be competent and clever, her services will be sought months beforehand; a good nurse havingseldom much of her time disengaged. There are some qualifications whichit is evident the nurse should possess: she should be scrupulously cleanand tidy in her person; honest, sober, and noiseless in her movements;should possess a natural love for children, and have a strong nerve incase of emergencies. Snuff-taking and spirit-drinking must not beincluded in her habits; but these are happily much less frequent thanthey were in former days. 

2430. Receiving, as she often will, instructions from the doctor, sheshould bear these in mind, and carefully carry them out. In thoseinstances where she does not feel herself sufficiently informed, sheshould ask advice from the medical man, and not take upon herself toadminister medicines, &c. , without his knowledge. 

2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years of age, sufficiently old to have had a little experience, and yet not too old orinfirm to be able to perform various duties requiring strength andbodily vigour. She should be able to wake the moment she is called, --atany hour of the night, that the mother or child may have their wantsimmediately attended to. Good temper, united to a kind and gentledisposition, is indispensable; and, although the nurse will frequentlyhave much to endure from the whims and caprices of the invalid, sheshould make allowances for these, and command her temper, at the sametime exerting her authority when it is necessary. 

2432. What the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting herlady's room, depends entirely on the establishment that is kept. Wherethere are plenty of servants, the nurse, of course, has nothing whateverto do but attend on her patient, and ring the bell for anything she mayrequire. Where the number of domestics is limited, she should not mindkeeping her room in order; that is to say, sweeping and dusting it everymorning. If fires be necessary, the housemaid should always clean thegrate, and do all that is wanted in that way, as this, being ratherdirty work, would soil the nurse's dress, and unfit her to approach thebed, or take the infant without soiling its clothes. In smallestablishments, too, the nurse should herself fetch things she mayrequire, and not ring every time she wants anything; and she must, ofcourse, not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is comfortable;and then only for a few minutes. When down stairs, and in company withthe other servants, the nurse should not repeat what she may have heardin her lady's room, as much mischief may be done by a gossiping nurse. As in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few daysbefore her services may be required, she should see that all is inreadiness; that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinementtakes place. She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, aswell as night-dresses, flannels, &c. &c. All the things which will berequired to dress the baby the first time should be laid in the basketin readiness, in the order in which they are to be put on; as well asscissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen rag, and two or threeflannel squares. If a berceaunette is to be used immediately, the nurseshould ascertain that the mattresses, pillow, &c. Are all well aired;and if not already done before she arrives, she should assist incovering and trimming it, ready for the little occupant. A monthly nurseshould be handy at her needle, as, if she is in the house some timebefore the baby is born, she will require some work of this sort; tooccupy her time. She should also understand the making-up of littlecaps, although we can scarcely say this is one of the nurse's duties. Asmost children wear no caps, except out of doors, her powers in this waywill not be much taxed. 

2433. A nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible, and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber utensilsas soon as used, and on no account put things under the bed. Soiledbaby's napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan, when they shouldbe washed out every morning, and hung out to dry: they are then in a fitstate to send to the laundress; and should, on no account, be leftdirty, but done every morning in this way. The bedroom should be keptrather dark, particularly for the first week or ten days; of a regulartemperature, and as free as possible from draughts, at the same timewell ventilated and free from unpleasant smells. 

2434. The infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light, or much air; and in carrying it about the passages, stairs, &c. , thenurse should always have its head-flannel on, to protect the eyes andears from the currents of air. For the management of children, we mustrefer our readers to the following chapters; and we need only say, inconclusion, that a good nurse should understand the symptoms of variousills incident to this period, as, in all cases, prevention is betterthan cure. As young mothers with their first baby are very often muchtroubled at first with their breasts, the nurse should understand theart of emptying them by suction, or some other contrivance. If thebreasts are kept well drawn, there will be but little danger ofinflammation; and as the infant at first cannot take all that isnecessary, something must be done to keep the inflammation down. This isone of the greatest difficulties a nurse has to contend with, and we canonly advise her to be very persevering, to rub the breasts well, and tolet the infant suck as soon and as often as possible, until they get inproper order. 

THE WET-NURSE. 

2435. We are aware that, according to the opinion of some ladies, thereis no domestic theme, during a certain period of their married lives, more fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitfulsource of annoyance, "the Nurse;" but, as we believe, there arethousands of excellent wives and mothers who pass through life withouteven a temporary embroglio in the kitchen, or suffering a state of moralhectic the whole time of a nurse's empire in the nursery or bedroom. Ourown experience goes to prove, that although many unqualified personspalm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for the duties they sorashly and dishonestly undertake to perform, and thus expose themselvesto ill-will and merited censure, there are still very many fully equalto the legitimate exercise of what they undertake; and if they do not inevery case give entire satisfaction, some of the fault, --and sometimes agreat deal of it, --may be honestly placed to the account of the ladiesthemselves, who, in many instances, are so impressed with the proprietyof their own method of performing everything, as to insist upon theadoption of _their_ system in preference to that of the nurse, whoseplan is probably based on a comprehensive forethought, and renderedperfect in all its details by an ample experience. 

2436. In all our remarks on this subject, we should remember withgentleness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn; andthat those who make their duty a study, and are termed professionalnurses, have much to endure from the caprice and egotism of theiremployers; while others are driven to the occupation from the laudablemotive of feeding their own children, and who, in fulfilling thatobject, are too often both selfish and sensual, performing, withoutfurther interest than is consistent with their own advantage, theroutine of customary duties. 

2437. Properly speaking, there are two nurses, --the nurse for the motherand the nurse for the child, or, the monthly and the wet nurse. Of theformer we have already spoken, and will now proceed to describe theduties of the latter, and add some suggestions as to her age, physicalhealth, and moral conduct, subjects of the utmost importance as far asthe charge intrusted to her is concerned, and therefore demanding somespecial remarks. 

2438. When from illness, suppression of the milk, accident, or somenatural process, the mother is deprived of the pleasure of rearing herinfant, it becomes necessary at once to look around for a fittingsubstitute, so that the child may not suffer, by any needless delay, aphysical loss by the deprivation of its natural food. The firstconsideration should be as regards age, state of health, and temper. 

2439. The age, if possible, should not be less than twenty nor exceedthirty years, with the health sound in every respect, and the body freefrom all eruptive disease or local blemish. The best evidence of a soundstate of health will be found in the woman's clear open countenance, theruddy tone of the skin, the full, round, and elastic state of thebreasts, and especially in the erectile, firm condition of the nipple, which, in all unhealthy states of the body, is pendulous, flabby, andrelaxed; in which case, the milk is sure to be imperfect in itsorganization, and, consequently, deficient in its nutrient qualities. Appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse ormother; for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having acorresponding appetite; and though inordinate craving for food isneither desirable nor necessary, a natural vigour should be experiencedat meal-times, and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed. 

2440. Besides her health, the moral state of the nurse is to be takeninto account, or that mental discipline or principle of conduct whichwould deter the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures andappetites at the cost or suffering of her infant charge. 

2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse soacting are, unfortunately, very rare; and many nurses, rather thanforego the enjoyment of a favourite dish, though morally certain of theeffect it will have on the child, will, on the first opportunity, feedwith avidity on fried meats, cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other crudeand injurious aliments, in defiance of all orders given, or confidencereposed in their word, good sense, and humanity. And when the infant isafterwards racked with pain, and a night of disquiet alarms the mother, the doctor is sent for, and the nurse, covering her dereliction by afalsehood, the consequence of her gluttony is treated as a disease, andthe poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines, that can do itbut little if any good, and, in all probability, materially retard itsphysical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, believes, too, that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself, thechild cannot suffer; and satisfied that, whatever is the cause of itsscreams and plunges, neither she, nor what she had eaten, had anythingto do with it, with this flattering assurance at her heart, she watchesher opportunity, and has another luxurious feast off the proscribeddainties, till the increasing disturbance in the child's health, ortreachery from the kitchen, opens the eyes of mother and doctor to thenurse's unprincipled conduct. In all such cases the infant should bespared the infliction of medicine, and, as a wholesome corrective toherself, and relief to her charge, a good sound dose administered to thenurse. 

2442. Respecting the diet of the wet-nurse, the first point ofimportance is to fix early and definite hours for every meal; and themother should see that no cause is ever allowed to interfere with theirpunctuality. The food itself should be light, easy of digestion, andsimple. Boiled or roast meat, with bread and potatoes, with occasionallya piece of sago, rice, or tapioca pudding, should constitute the dinner, the only meal that requires special comment; broths, green vegetables, and all acid or salt foods, must be avoided. Fresh fish, once or twice aweek, may be taken; but it is hardly sufficiently nutritious to be oftenused as a meal. If the dinner is taken early, --at one o'clock, --therewill be no occasion for luncheon, which too often, to the injury of thechild, is made the cover for a first dinner. Half a pint of stout, witha Reading biscuit, at eleven o'clock, will be abundantly sufficientbetween breakfast at eight and a good dinner, with a pint of porter atone o'clock. About eight o'clock in the evening, half a pint of stout, with another biscuit, may be taken; and for supper, at ten or half-past, a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread andcheese, may conclude the feeding for the day. 

2443. Animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient. Allspirits, unless in extreme cases, should be avoided; and wine is stillmore seldom needed. With a due quantity of plain digestible food, andthe proportion of stout and porter ordered, with early hours andregularity, the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself, butfully capable of rearing a child in health and strength. There are twopoints all mothers, who are obliged to employ wet-nurses, shouldremember, and be on their guard against. The first is, never to allow anurse to give medicine to the infant on her own authority: many havesuch an infatuated idea of the _healing excellence_ of castor-oil, thatthey would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a week, andthink they had done a meritorious service to the child. The next pointis, to watch carefully, lest, to insure a night's sleep for herself, shedoes not dose the infant with Godfrey's cordial, syrup of poppies, orsome narcotic potion, to insure tranquillity to the one and give theopportunity of sleep to the other. The fact that scores of nurses keepsecret bottles of these deadly syrups, for the purpose of stilling theircharges, is notorious; and that many use them to a fearful extent, issufficiently patent to all. 

2444. It therefore behoves the mother, while obliged to trust to anurse, to use her best discretion to guard her child from theunprincipled treatment of the person she must, to a certain extent, depend upon and trust; and to remember, in all cases, rather than resortto castor-oil or sedatives, to consult a medical man for her infant inpreference to following the counsel of her nurse. 

THE REARING, MANAGEMENT, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD. 

CHAPTER XLII. 

Physiology of Life, as illustrated by Respiration, Circulation, andDigestion. 

2445. The infantine management of children, like the mother's love forher offspring, seems to be born with the child, and to be a directintelligence of Nature. It may thus, at first sight, appear asinconsistent and presumptuous to tell a woman how to rear her infant asto instruct her in the manner of loving it. Yet, though Nature isunquestionably the best nurse, Art makes so admirable a foster-mother, that no sensible woman, in her novitiate of parent, would refuse theadmonitions of art, or the teachings of experience, to consummate herduties of nurse. It is true that, in a civilized state of society, fewyoung wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without someinsight, traditional or practical, into the management of infants:consequently, the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaidedintelligence, or what, in such a case, may be called instinct, andobliged to trust to the promptings of nature alone for the well-being ofher child, are very rare indeed. Again, every woman is not gifted withthe same physical ability for the harassing duties of a mother; andthough Nature, as a general rule, has endowed all female creation withthe attributes necessary to that most beautiful and, at the same time, holiest function, --the healthy rearing of their offspring, --the casesare sufficiently numerous to establish the exception, where the motheris either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking thesemost pleasing duties herself, and where, consequently, she is compelledto trust to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are atonce the mother's pride and delight to render to her child. 

2446. In these cases, when obliged to call in the services of hiredassistance, she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to onewho, from her social sphere, has probably notions of rearing childrendiametrically opposed to the preconceived ideas of the mother, and atenmity with all her sentiments of right and prejudices of position. 

2447. It has justly been said--we think by Hood--that the children ofthe poor are not brought up, but _dragged up_. However facetious thisremark may seem, there is much truth in it; and that children, reared inthe reeking dens of squalor and poverty, live at all, is an apparentanomaly in the course of things, that, at first sight, would seem to setthe laws of sanitary provision at defiance, and make it appear a perfectwaste of time to insist on pure air and exercise as indispensablenecessaries of life, and especially so as regards infantine existence. 

2448. We see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children, everythingstudied that can tend to their personal comfort, --pure air, pure water, regular ablution, a dietary prescribed by art, and every precautionadopted that medical judgment and maternal love can dictate, for thewell-being of the parents' hope; and find, in despite of all this careand vigilance, disease and death invading the guarded treasure. We turnto the foetor and darkness that, in some obscure court, attend therobust brood who, coated in dirt, and with mud and refuse forplaythings, live and thrive, and grow into manhood, and, in contrast tothe pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child, exhibitstrength, vigour, and well-developed frames, and our belief in thepotency of the life-giving elements of air, light, and cleanlinessreceives a shock that, at first sight, would appear fatal to the impliedbenefits of these, in reality, all-sufficient attributes of health andlife. 

2449. But as we must enter more largely on this subject hereafter, weshall leave its consideration for the present, and return to what wewere about to say respecting trusting to others' aid in the rearing ofchildren. Here it is that the young and probably inexperienced mothermay find our remarks not only an assistance but a comfort to her, in asfar as, knowing the simplest and best system to adopt, she may be ableto instruct another, and see that her directions are fully carried out. 

2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece ofmechanism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of asystem, and performing its own vital function irrespectively of theothers, and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and healthof the whole. It is, in fact, to a certain extent, like a watch, which, when once wound up and set in motion, will continue its function ofrecording true time only so long as every wheel, spring, and leverperforms its allotted duty, and at its allotted time; or till the limitthat man's ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automatonhas been reached, or, in other words, till it has run down. 

2451. What the key is to the mechanical watch, air is to the physicalman. Once admit air into the mouth and nostrils, and the lungs expand, the heart beats, the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body, themouth secretes saliva, to soften and macerate the food; the liver formsits bile, to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment; thekidneys perform their office; the eye elaborates its tears, tofacilitate motion and impart that glistening to the orb on which dependsso much of its beauty; and a dewy moisture exudes from the skin, protecting the body from the extremes of heat and cold, and sharpeningthe perception of touch and feeling. At the same instant, and in everypart, the arteries, like innumerable bees, are everywhere laying downlayers of muscle, bones, teeth, and, in fact, like the coral zoophyte, building up a continent of life and matter; while the veins, equallybusy, are carrying away the _débris_ and refuse collected from where thezoophyte arteries are building, --this refuse, in its turn, beingconveyed to the liver, there to be converted into bile. 

2452. All these--and they are but a few of the vital actions constantlytaking place--are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air. Nosubject can be fraught with greater interest than watching the firstspark of life, as it courses with electric speed "through all the gatesand alleys" of the soft, insensate body of the infant. The effect of airon the new-born child is as remarkable in its results as it is wonderfulin its consequence; but to understand this more intelligibly, it mustfirst be remembered that life consists of the performance of _three_vital functions--RESPIRATION, CIRCULATION, and DIGESTION. The lungsdigest the air, taking from it its most nutritious element, the_oxygen_, to give to the impoverished blood that circulatesthrough them. The stomach digests the food, and separates thenutriment--_chyle_--from the aliment, which it gives to the blood forthe development of the frame; and the blood, which is understood by theterm circulation, digests in its passage through the lungs thenutriment--_chyle_--to give it quantity and quality, and the _oxygen_from the air to give it vitality. Hence it will be seen, that, speakinggenerally, the three vital functions resolve themselves intoone, --DIGESTION; and that the lungs are the primary and the mostimportant of the vital organs; and respiration, the first in fact, as weall know it is the last in deed, of all the functions performed by theliving body. 

THE LUNGS. --RESPIRATION. 

2453. The first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about thelips and angles of the mouth, increasing to twitchings, and finally to aconvulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks, the consequence of suddencold to the nerves of the face. This spasmodic action produces a gasp, causing the air to rush through the mouth and nostrils, and enter thewindpipe and upper portion of the flat and contracted lungs, which, likea sponge partly immersed in water, immediately expand. This is succeededby a few faint sobs or pants, by which larger volumes of air are drawninto the chest, till, after a few seconds, and when a greater bulk ofthe lungs has become inflated, the breast-bone and ribs rise, the chestexpands, and, with a sudden start, the infant gives utterance to asuccession of loud, sharp cries, which have the effect of filling everycell of the entire organ with air and life. To the anxious mother, thefirst voice of her child is, doubtless, the sweetest music she everheard; and the more loudly it peals, the greater should be her joy, asit is an indication of health and strength, and not only shows theperfect expansion of the lungs, but that the process of life has set inwith vigour. Having welcomed in its own existence, like the morningbird, with a shrill note of gladness, the infant ceases its cry, and, after a few short sobs, usually subsides into sleep or quietude. 

2454. At the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs, the valve, or door between the two sides of the heart-and through which the bloodhad previously passed-is closed and hermetically sealed, and the bloodtaking a new course, bounds into the lungs, now expanded with air, andwhich we have likened to a wetted sponge, to which they bear a not unaptaffinity, air being substituted for water. It here receives the _oxygen_from the atmosphere, and the _chyle_, or white blood, from the digestedfood, and becomes, in an instant, arterial blood, a vital principle, from which every solid and fluid of the body is constructed. Besides thelungs, Nature has provided another respiratory organ, a sort ofsupplemental lung, that, as well as being a covering to the body, _in_spires air and _ex_pires moisture;--this is the cuticle, or skin;and so intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs, thatwhatever injures the first, is certain to affect the latter. 

2455. _Hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after scalds orburns on the cuticle, the cough that follows the absorption of cold ordamp by the skin, the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced bychildren in all eruptive diseases, while the rash is coming to thesurface, and the hot, dry skin that always attends congestion of thelungs, and fever. _

2456. The great practical advantage derivable from this fact is, theknowledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other. Hence, too, the great utility of hot baths in all affections of the lungs ordiseases of the skin; and the reason why exposure to cold or wet is, innearly all cases, followed by tightness of the chest, sore throat, difficulty of breathing, and cough. These symptoms are the consequenceof a larger quantity of blood than is natural remaining in the lungs, and the cough is a mere effort of Nature to throw off the obstructioncaused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of respiration. The hot bath, by causing a larger amount of blood to rush suddenly tothe skin, has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess ofblood, and by equalizing the circulation, and promoting perspirationfrom the cuticle, affords immediate and direct benefit, both to thelungs and the system at large. 

THE STOMACH--DIGESTION. 

2457. The organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to theprocess of digestion are, the mouth, teeth, tongue, and gullet, thestomach, small intestines, the pancreas, the salivary glands, and theliver. Next to respiration, digestion is the chief function in theeconomy of life, as, without the nutritious fluid digested from thealiment, there would be nothing to supply the immense and constantlyrecurring waste of the system, caused by the activity with which thearteries at all periods, but especially during infancy and youth, arebuilding up the frame and developing the body. In infancy (the period ofwhich our present subject treats), the series of parts engaged in theprocess of digestion may be reduced simply to the stomach and liver, orrather its secretion, --the bile. The stomach is a thick muscular bag, connected above with the gullet, and, at its lower extremity, with thecommencement of the small intestines. The duty or function of thestomach is to secrete from the arteries spread over its inner surface, asharp acid liquid called the _gastric_ juice; this, with a due mixtureof saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually digests the food orcontents of the stomach, reducing the whole into a soft pulpy mass, which then passes into the first part of the small intestines, where itcomes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder, which immediatelyseparates the digested food into two parts, one is a white creamy fluidcalled chyle, and the absolute concentration of all nourishment, whichis taken up by proper vessels, and, as we have before said, carrieddirectly to the heart, to be made blood of, and vitalized in the lungs, and thus provide for the wear and tear of the system. It must be hereobserved that the stomach can only digest solids, for fluids, beingincapable of that process, can only be _absorbed_; and without theresult of digestion, animal, at least human life, could not exist. Now, as Nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on liquidaliment, and as, without a digestion the body would perish, someprovision was necessary to meet this difficulty, and that provision wasfound in the nature of the liquid itself, or in other words, THE MILK. The process of making cheese, or fresh curds and whey, is familiar tomost persons; but as it is necessary to the elucidation of our subject, we will briefly repeat it. The internal membrane, or the lining coat ofa calf's stomach, having been removed from the organ, is hung up, like abladder, to dry; when required, a piece is cut off, put in a jug, alittle warm water poured upon it, and after a few hours it is fit foruse; the liquid so made being called _rennet_. A little of this rennet, poured into a basin of warm milk, at once coagulates the greater part, and separates from it a quantity of thin liquor, called _whey_. This isprecisely the action that takes place in the infant's stomach afterevery supply from the breast. The cause is the same in both cases, theacid of the gastric juice in the infant's stomach immediately convertingthe milk into a soft cheese. It is gastric juice, adhering to the calf'sstomach, and drawn out by the water, forming rennet, that makes thecurds in the basin. The cheesy substance being a solid, at onceundergoes the process of digestion, is separated into _chyle_ by thebile, and, in a few hours, finds its way to the infant's heart, tobecome blood, and commence the architecture of its little frame. This isthe simple process of a baby's digestion:-milk converted into cheese, cheese into _chyle_, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, andtegument-how simple is the cause, but how sublime and wonderful are theeffects!

2458. We have described the most important of the three functions thattake place in the infant's body-respiration and digestion; the third, namely, circulation, we hardly think it necessary to enter on, not beingcalled for by the requirements of the nurse and mother; so we shall omitits notice, and proceed from theoretical to more practicalconsiderations. Children of weakly constitutions are just as likely tobe born of robust parents, and those who earn their bread by toil, asthe offspring of luxury and affluence; and, indeed, it is against theordinary providence of Nature to suppose the children of the hardworkingand necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of parentsblessed with ease and competence. 

2459. All children come into the world in the same imploringhelplessness, with the same general organization and wants, anddemanding either from the newly-awakened mother's love, or from thememory of motherly feeling in the nurse, or the common appeals ofhumanity in those who undertake the earliest duties of an infant, thesame assistance and protection, and the same fostering care. 

THE INFANT. 

2460. We have already described the phenomena produced on the new-bornchild by the contact of air, which, after a succession of musculartwitchings, becomes endowed with voice, and heralds its advent by a loudbut brief succession of cries. But though this is the general rule, itsometimes happens (from causes it is unnecessary here to explain) thatthe infant does not cry, or give utterance to any audible sounds, or ifit does, they are so faint as scarcely to be distinguished as humanaccents, plainly indicating that life, as yet, to the new visitor, isneither a boon nor a blessing; the infant being, in fact, in a state ofsuspended or imperfect vitality, --a state of _quasi_ existence, closelyapproximating the condition of a _still-birth_. 

2461. As soon as this state of things is discovered, the child should beturned on its right side, and the whole length of the spine, from thehead downwards, rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand, sharplyand quickly, without intermission, till the quick action has not onlyevoked heat, but electricity in the part, and till the loud and sharpcries of the child have thoroughly expanded the lungs, andsatisfactorily established its life. The operation will seldom requireabove a minute to effect, and less frequently demands a repetition. Ifthere is brandy at hand, the fingers before rubbing may be dipped intothat, or any other spirit. 

2462. There-is another condition of what we may call "mute births, "where the child only makes short ineffectual gasps, and those atintervals of a minute or two apart, when the lips, eyelids, and fingersbecome of a deep purple or slate colour, sometimes half the bodyremaining white, while the other half, which was at first swarthy, deepens to a livid hue. This condition of the infant is owing to thevalve between the two sides of the heart remaining open, and allowingthe unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into thecirculation. 

2463. The object in this case, as in the previous one, is to dilate thelungs as quickly as possible, so that, by the sudden effect of avigorous inspiration, the valve may be firmly closed, and the impureblood, losing this means of egress, be sent directly to the lungs. Thesame treatment is therefore necessary as in the previous case, with theaddition, if the friction along the spine has failed, of a warm bath ata temperature of about 80°, in which the child is to be plunged up tothe neck, first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of the mucus that mightinterfere with the free passage of air. 

2464. While in the bath, the friction along the spine is to becontinued, and if the lungs still remain unexpended, while one personretains the child in an inclined position in the water, another shouldinsert the pipe of a small pair of bellows into one nostril, and whilethe month is closed and the other nostril compressed on the pipe withthe hand of the assistant, the lungs are to be slowly inflated by steadypuffs of air from the bellows, the hand being removed from the mouth andnose after each inflation, and placed on the pit of the stomach, and bya steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth. This process isto be continued, steadily inflating and expelling the air from thelungs, till, with a sort of tremulous leap, Nature takes up the process, and the infant begins to gasp, and finally to cry, at first low andfaint, but with every gulp of air increasing in length and strength ofvolume, when it is to be removed from the water, and instantly wrapped(all but the face and mouth) in a flannel. Sometimes, however, all thesemeans will fail in effecting an utterance from the child, which willlie, with livid lips and a flaccid body, every few minutes opening itsmouth with a short gasping pant, and then subsiding into a state ofpulseless inaction, lingering probably some hours, till the spasmodicpantings growing further apart, it ceases to exist. 

2465. The time that this state of negative vitality will linger in theframe of an infant is remarkable; and even when all the previousoperations, though long-continued, have proved ineffectual, the childwill often rally from the simplest of means--the application of dryheat. When removed from the bath, place three or four hot bricks ortiles on the hearth, and lay the child, loosely folded in a flannel, onits back along them, taking care that there is but one fold of flannelbetween the spine and heated bricks or tiles. When neither of thesearticles can be procured, put a few clear pieces of red cinder in awarming-pan, and extend the child in the same manner along the closedlid. As the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marrow, thechild that was dying, or seemingly dead, will frequently give a suddenand energetic cry, succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorouspeal, making up, in volume and force, for the previous delay, andinstantly confirming its existence by every effort in its nature. 

2466. With these two exceptions, --restored by the means we have pointedout to the functions of life, --we will proceed to the consideration ofthe child HEALTHILY BORN. Here the first thing that meets us on thethreshold of inquiry, and what is often between mother and nurse notonly a vexed question, but one of vexatious import, is the _crying_ ofthe child; the mother, in her natural anxiety, maintaining that herinfant _must be ill_ to cause it to cry so much or so often, and thenurse insisting that _all_ children cry, and that nothing is the matterwith it, and that crying does good, and is, indeed, an especial benefitto infancy. The anxious and unfamiliar mother, though not convinced bythese abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation, takesboth for granted; and, giving the nurse credit for more knowledge andexperience on this head than she can have, contentedly resigns herselfto the infliction, as a thing necessary to be endured for the good ofthe baby, but thinking it, at the same time, an extraordinary instanceof the imperfectibility of Nature as regards the human infant; for hermind wanders to what she has observed in her childhood with puppies andkittens, who, except when rudely torn from their nurse, seldom giveutterance to any complaining. 

2467. We, undoubtedly, believe that crying, to a certain extent, is notonly conducive to health, but positively necessary to the fulldevelopment and physical economy of the infant's being. But thoughholding this opinion, we are far from believing that a child does notvery often cry from pain, thirst, want of food, and attention to itspersonal comfort; but there is as much difference in the tone andexpression of a child's cry as in the notes of an adult's voice; and themother's ear will not be long in discriminating between the sharppeevish whine of irritation and fever, and the louder intermitting crythat characterizes the want of warmth and sleep. All these shades ofexpression in the child's inarticulate voice every nurse _should_understand, and every mother will soon teach herself to interpret themwith an accuracy equal to language. 

2468. There is no part of a woman's duty to her child that a youngmother should so soon make it her business to study, as the voice of herinfant, and the language conveyed in its cry. The study is neither hardnor difficult; a close attention to its tone, and the expression of thebaby's features, are the two most important points demanding attention. The key to both the mother will find in her own heart, and the knowledgeof her success in the comfort and smile of her infant. We have tworeasons--both strong ones--for urging on mothers the imperativenecessity of early making themselves acquainted with the nature andwants of their child: the first, that when left to the entire, responsibility of the baby, after the departure of the nurse, she may beable to undertake her new duties with more confidence than if left toher own resources and mother's instinct, without a clue to guide herthrough the mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve ofher nature; and, secondly, that she may be able to guard her child fromthe nefarious practices of unprincipled nurses, who, while calming themother's mind with false statements as to the character of the baby'scries, rather than lose their rest, or devote that time which wouldremove the cause of suffering, administer, behind the curtains, thosedeadly narcotics which, while stupefying Nature into sleep, insure forherself a night of many unbroken hours. Such nurses as have not thehardihood to dose their infant charges, are often full of other schemesto still that constant and reproachful cry. The most frequent meansemployed for this purpose is giving it something to suck, --somethingeasily hid from the mother, --or, when that is impossible, under the pleaof keeping it warm, the nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl, and, under this blind, surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parchedlips, which possibly moan for drink; and, under this inhuman cheat anddelusion, the infant is pacified, till Nature, balked of its desires, drops into a troubled sleep. These are two of our reasons for impressingupon mothers the early, the immediate necessity of putting themselvessympathetically in communication with their child, by at once learningits hidden language as a delightful task. 

2469. We must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow thenurse to sleep with the baby, never herself to lay down with it by herside for a night's rest, never to let it sleep in the parents' bed, andon no account keep it, longer than absolutely necessary, confined in onatmosphere loaded with the breath of many adults. 

2470. The amount of _oxygen_ required by an infant is so large, and thequantity consumed by mid-life and age, and the proportion of carbonicacid thrown off from both, so considerable, that an infant breathing thesame air cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while derivingits vitality from so corrupted a medium. This objection, always inforce, is still more objectionable at night-time, when doors and windowsare closed, and amounts to a condition of poison, when placed betweentwo adults in sleep, and shut in by bed-curtains; and when, in additionto the impurities expired from the lungs, we remember, in quiescence andsleep, how large a portion of mephitic gas is given off from the skin. 

2471. Mothers, in the fullness of their affection, believe there is noharbour, sleeping or awake, where their infants can be so secure fromall possible or probable danger as in their own arms; yet we shouldastound our readers if we told them the statistical number of infantswho, in despite of their motherly solicitude and love, are annuallykilled, unwittingly, by such parents themselves, and this from thepersistency in the practice we are so strenuously condemning. The motherfrequently, on awaking, discovers the baby's face closely impactedbetween her bosom and her arm, and its body rigid and lifeless; or elseso enveloped in the "head-blanket" and superincumbent bedclothes, as torender breathing a matter of physical impossibility. In such cases thejury in general returns a verdict of "_Accidentally overlaid_" but oneof "Careless suffocation" would be more in accordance with truth andjustice. The only possible excuse that can be urged, either by nurse ormother, for this culpable practice, is the plea of imparting warmth tothe infant. But this can always be effected by an extra blanket in thechild's crib, or, if the weather is particularly cold, by a bottle ofhot water enveloped in flannel and placed at the child's feet; while allthe objections already urged--as derivable from animal heat imparted byactual contact--are entirely obviated. There is another evil attendingthe sleeping together of the mother and infant, which, as far as regardsthe latter, we consider quite as formidable, though not so immediate asthe others, and is always followed by more or less of mischief to themother. The evil we now allude to is that most injurious practice ofletting the child _suck_ after the mother has _fallen asleep_, a customthat naturally results from the former, and which, as we hare alreadysaid, is injurious to both mother and child. It is injurious to theinfant by allowing it, without control, to imbibe to distension a fluidsluggishly secreted and deficient in those vital principles which thewant of mental energy, and of the sympathetic appeals of the child onthe mother, so powerfully produce on the secreted nutriment, while themother wakes in a state of clammy exhaustion, with giddiness, dimness ofsight, nausea, loss of appetite, and a dull aching pain through the backand between the shoulders. In fact, she wakes languid and unrefreshedfrom her sleep, with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes, caused by herbaby vampire, who, while dragging from her her health and strength, hasexcited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite, but fraught withthe same injurious consequences--"functional derangement. "

THE MILK. 

2472. As Nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural foodof her offspring, it must be self-evident to every reflecting woman, that it becomes her duty to study, as far as lies in her power, to keepthat reservoir of nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition aspossible; for she must remember that the _quantity_ is no proof of the_quality_ of this aliment. 

2473. The mother, while suckling, as a general rule, should avoid allsedentary occupations, take regular exercise, keep her mind as livelyand pleasingly occupied as possible, especially by music and singing. Her diet should be light and nutritious, with a proper sufficiency ofanimal food, and of that kind which yields the largest amount ofnourishment; and, unless the digestion is naturally strong, vegetablesand fruit should form a very small proportion of the general dietary, and such preparations as broths, gruels, arrowroot, &c. , still less. Tapioca, or ground-rice pudding, made with several eggs, may be takenfreely; but all slops and thin potations, such as that delusion calledchicken-broth, should be avoided, as yielding a very small amount ofnutriment, and a large proportion of flatulence. All purely stimulantsshould be avoided as much as possible, especially spirits, unless takenfor some special object, and that medicinally; but as a part of thedietary they should be carefully shunned. Lactation is always anexhausting process, and as the child increases in size and strength, thedrain upon the mother becomes great and depressing. Then something moreeven than an abundant diet is required to keep the mind and body up to astandard sufficiently healthy to admit of a constant and nutritioussecretion being performed without detriment to the physical integrity ofthe mother, or injury to the child who imbibes it; and as stimulants areinadmissible, if not positively injurious, the substitute required is tobe found in _malt liquor_. To the lady accustomed to her Madeira andsherry, this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate youngmother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance ofwine; but as we are writing from experience, and with the avowed objectof imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to our readers, weallow no social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object. 

2474. We have already said that the suckling mother should avoidstimulants, especially spirituous ones; and though something of thissort is absolutely necessary to support her strength during theexhausting process, it should be rather of a _tonic_ than of astimulating character; and as all wines contain a large percentage ofbrandy, they are on that account less beneficial than the pure juice ofthe fermented grape might be. But there is another consideration to betaken into account on this subject; the mother has not only to think ofherself, but also of her infant. Now wines, especially port wine, veryoften--indeed, most frequently--affect the baby's bowels, and what mighthave been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain andirritation to the child afterwards. Sherry is less open to thisobjection than other wines, yet still _it_ very frequently doesinfluence the second participator, or the child whose mother has takenit. 

2475. The nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be, to someextent, to most mothers, a period of privation and penance, and unlessshe is deaf to the cries of her baby, and insensible to its kicks andplunges, and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping painsthat rack her child, she will avoid every article that can remotelyaffect the little being who draws its sustenance from her. She will seethat the babe is acutely affected by all that in any way influences her, and willingly curtail her own enjoyments, rather than see her infantrendered feverish, irritable, and uncomfortable. As the best tonic, then, and the most efficacious indirect stimulant that a mother can takeat such times, there is no potation equal to _porter_ and _stout_, or, what is better still, an equal part of porter and stout. Ale, except fora few constitutions, is too subtle and too sweet, generally causingacidity or heartburn, and stout alone is too potent to admit of a fulldraught, from its proneness to affect the head; and quantity, as well asmoderate strength, is required to make the draught effectual; the equalmixture, therefore, of stout and porter yields all the propertiesdesired or desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose. 

2476. Independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution, _porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk;more powerful in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than anyother article within the range of the physician's art;_ and, in cases ofdeficient quantity, is the most certain, speedy, and the healthiestmeans that can be employed to insure a quick and abundant flow. In caseswhere malt liquor produces flatulency, a few grains of the "carbonate ofsoda" may advantageously be added to each glass immediately beforedrinking, which will have the effect of neutralizing any acidity thatmay be in the porter at the time, and will also prevent itsafter-disagreement with the stomach. The quantity to be taken mustdepend upon the natural strength of the mother, the age and demand madeby the infant on the parent, and other causes; but the amount shouldvary from _one_ to _two_ pints a day, never taking less than half a pintat a time, which should be repeated three or four times a day. 

2477. We have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance tothe mother, but this is not invariably the case; and, as so much mustdepend upon the natural strength of the stomach, and its power ofassimilating all kinds of food into healthy _chyle_, it is impossible todefine exceptions. Where a woman feels she can eat any kind of food, without inconvenience or detriment, she should live during her sucklingas she did before; but, as a general rule, we are bound to advise allmothers to abstain from such articles as pickles, fruits, cucumbers, andall acid and slowly digestible foods, unless they wish for restlessnights and crying infants. 

2478. As regards exercise and amusement, we would certainly neitherprohibit a mother's dancing, going to a theatre, nor even from attendingan assembly. The first, however, is the best indoor recreation she cantake, and a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in thenursery with this most excellent means of healthful circulation. Theonly precaution necessary is to avoid letting the child suck the milkthat has lain long in the breast, or is heated by excessive action. 

2479. Every mother who can, should be provided with a breast-pump, orglass tube, to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating inher absence from the child, or the first gush excited by undue exertion:the subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigoratinginfluence of a previous healthy stimulus. 

2480. As the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of thesaline elements, and is thin and innutritious, it is most admirablyadapted for the purpose Nature designed it to fulfil, --that of anaperient; but which, unfortunately, it is seldom permitted, in ourartificial mode of living, to perform. 

2481. So opposed are we to the objectionable plan of physicking new-bornchildren, that, unless for positive illness, we would much rather advisethat medicine should be administered _through_ the mother for the firsteight or ten weeks of its existence. This practice, which few motherswill object to, is easily effected by the parent, when such a course isnecessary for the child, taking either a dose of castor-oil, half anounce of tasteless salts (the phosphate of soda), one or twoteaspoonfuls of magnesia, a dose of lenitive electuary, manna, or anymild and simple aperient, which, almost before it can have taken effecton herself, will exhibit its action on her child. 

2482. One of the most common errors that mothers fall into whilesuckling their children, is that of fancying they are always hungry, andconsequently overfeeding them; and with this, the great mistake ofapplying the child to the breast on every occasion of its crying, without investigating the cause of its complaint, and, under the beliefthat it wants food, putting the nipple into its crying mouth, until theinfant turns in revulsion and petulance from what it should accept witheagerness and joy. At such times, a few teaspoonfuls of water, slightlychilled, will often instantly pacify a crying and restless child, whohas turned in loathing from the offered breast; or, after imbibing a fewdrops, and finding it not what nature craved, throws back its head indisgust, and cries more petulantly than before. In such a case as this, the young mother, grieved at her baby's rejection of the temptingpresent, and distressed at its cries, and in terror of some injury, overand over ransacks its clothes, believing some insecure pin can alone bethe cause of such sharp complaining, an accident that, from her own carein dressing, however, is seldom or ever the case. 

2483. These abrupt cries of the child, if they do not proceed fromthirst, which a little water will relieve, not unfrequently occur fromsome unequal pressure, a fold or twist in the "roller, " or someconstriction round the tender body. If this is suspected, the mothermust not be content with merely slackening the strings; the child shouldbe undressed, and the creases and folds of the hot skin, especiallythose about the thighs and groins, examined, to see that no powder hascaked, and, becoming hard, irritated the parts. The violet powder shouldbe dusted freely over all, to cool the skin, and everything put on freshand smooth. If such precautions have not afforded relief, and, inaddition to the crying, the child plunges or draws up its legs, themother may be assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach orbowels, --either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding inthe former; but, from whichever cause, the child should be "opened"before the fire, and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen, theinfant being occasionally elevated to a sitting position, and whilegently jolted on the knee, the back should be lightly patted with thehand. 

2484. Should the mother have any reason to apprehend that the _cause_ ofinconvenience proceeds from the bladder--a not unfrequent source ofpain, --the napkin is to be dipped in hot water, squeezed out, andimmediately applied over the part, and repeated every eight or tenminutes, for several times in succession, either till the natural reliefis afforded, or a cessation of pain allows of its discontinuance. Thepain that young infants often suffer, and the crying that results fromit, is, as we have already said, frequently caused by the motherinconsiderately overfeeding her child, and is produced by the pain ofdistension, and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid inthe stomach than the gastric juice can convert into cheese and digest. 

2485. Some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomachthan others, and get rid of the excess by vomiting, concluding everyprocess of suckling by an emission of milk and curd. Such children arecalled by nurses "thriving children;" and generally they are so, simplybecause their digestion is good, and they have the power of expellingwith impunity that superabundance of aliment which in others is a sourceof distension, flatulence, and pain. 

2486. The length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much onthe health and strength of the child, and the health of the mother, andthe quantity and quality of her milk; though, when all circumstances arefavourable, it should never be less than _nine_, nor exceed _fifteen_months; but perhaps the true time will be found in the medium betweenboth. But of this we may be sure, that Nature never ordained a child tolive on suction after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind;and nothing is more out of place and unseemly than to hear a child, witha set of twenty teeth, ask for "the breast. "

2487. The practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother, by keeping up an uncalled-for, and, after the proper time, an unhealthydrain on her system, while the child either derives no benefit from whatit no longer requires, or it produces a positive injury on itsconstitution. After the period when Nature has ordained the child shalllive by other means, the secretion of milk becomes thin anddeteriorated, showing in the flabby flesh and puny features of the childboth its loss of nutritious properties and the want of more stimulatingaliment. 

2488. Though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time ababy should be suckled, we by no means wish to imply that a child shouldbe fed exclusively on milk for its first year; quite the reverse; theinfant can hardly be too soon made independent of the mother. Thus, should illness assail her, her milk fail, or any domestic cause abruptlycut off the natural supply, the child having been annealed to anartificial diet, its life might be safely carried on without seeking fora wet-nurse, and without the slightest danger to its system. 

2489. The advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child toartificial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to herinfant; the demand on her physical strength in the first instance willbe less severe and exhausting, the child will sleep longer on a lessrapidly digestible aliment, and yield to both more quiet nights, and themother will be more at liberty to go out for business or pleasure, another means of sustenance being at hand till her return. Besides theseadvantages, by a judicious blending of the two systems of feeding, theinfant will acquire greater constitutional strength, so that, ifattacked by sickness or disease, it will have a much greater chance ofresisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother, whosemilk, affected by fatigue and the natural anxiety of the parent for heroffspring, is at such a time neither good in its properties nor likelyto be beneficial to the patient. 

2490. All that we have further to say on suckling is an advice tomothers, that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple, andpossibly avoid what is called a "broken breast, " never to put it up witha wet nipple, but always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness, andthe moment that delicate part is drawn from the child's mouth, to dry itcarefully of the milk and saliva that moisten it; and, further, to makea practice of suckling from each breast alternately. 

Dress and Dressing, Washing, &c. 

2491. As respects the dress and dressing of a new-born infant, or of achild in arms, during any stage of its nursing, there are few women whowill require us to give them guidance or directions for theirinstruction; and though a few hints on the subject may not be out ofplace here, yet most women intuitively "take to a baby, " and, with asmall amount of experience, are able to perform all the little officesnecessary to its comfort and cleanliness with ease and completeness. Weshall, therefore, on this delicate subject hold our peace; and only, from afar, _hint_ "at what we would, " leaving our suggestions to beapproved or rejected, according as they chime with the judgment and theapprehension of our motherly readers. 

2492. In these days of intelligence, there are few ladies who have not, in all probability, seen the manner in which the Indian squaw, theaborigines of Polynesia, and even the Lapp and Esquimaux, strap downtheir baby on a board, and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough ofa tree, hang it up to the rafters of the hut, or on travel, dangle it ontheir backs, outside the domestic implements, which, as the slave of hermaster, man, the wronged but uncomplaining woman carries, in order thather lord may march in unhampered freedom. Cruel and confining as thissystem of "backboard" dressing may seem to our modern notions of freedomand exercise, it is positively less irksome, less confining, andinfinitely less prejudicial to health, than the mummying of children byour grandmothers a hundred, ay, fifty years ago: for what withchin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead-cloths, rollers, bandages, &c. , an infant had as many girths and strings, to keep head, limbs, andbody in one exact position, as a ship has halyards. 

2493. Much of this--indeed we may say all--has been abolished; but stillthe child is far from being dressed loosely enough; and we shall neverbe satisfied till the abominable use of the _pin_ is avoided _in toto_in an infant's dressing, and a texture made for all the under garmentsof a child of a cool and elastic material. 

2494. The manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called the"roller, " as if it had fractured ribs, compressing those organs--that, living on suction, must be, for the health of the child, to a certaindegree distended, to obtain sufficient aliment from the fluidimbibed--is perfectly preposterous. Our humanity, as well as our duty, calls upon us at once to abrogate and discountenance by every means inour power. Instead of the process of washing and dressing being made, aswith the adult, a refreshment and comfort, it is, by the dawdling mannerin which it is performed, the multiplicity of things used, and theperpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its complicatedclothing, rendered an operation of positive irritation and annoyance. We, therefore, entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its truelight, and study to the utmost, simplicity in dress, and dispatch in theprocess. 

2495. Children do not so much cry from the washing as from theirritation caused by the frequent change of position in which they areplaced, the number of times they are turned on their face, on theirback, and on their side, by the manipulations demanded by themultiplicity of articles to be fitted, tacked, and carefully adjusted ontheir bodies. What mother ever found her girl of six or seven standquiet while she was curling her hair? How many times nightly has she notto reprove her for not standing still during the process! It is the samewith the unconscious infant, who cannot bear to be moved about, and whohas no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forcedreluctantly into another. It is true, in one instance the child hasintelligence to guide it, and in the other not; but the _motitorynerves_, in both instances, resent coercion, and a child cannot be toolittle handled. 

2496. On this account alone, and, for the moment, setting health andcomfort out of the question, we beg mothers to simplify their baby'sdress as much as possible; and not only to put on as little as isabsolutely necessary, but to make that as simple in its contrivance andadjustment as it will admit of; to avoid belly-bands, rollers, girths, and everything that can impede or confine the natural expansion of thedigestive organs, on the due performance of whose functions the childlives, thrives, and develops its physical being. 

REARING BY HAND. 

Articles necessary, and how to use them, --Preparation of Foods. --Baths. --Advantages of Rearing by Hand. 

2497. As we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocate for anartificial, in preference to the natural course of rearing children, webeg our renders to understand us perfectly on this head; all we desireto prove is the fact that a child _can_ be brought up as well on a spoondietary as the best example to be found of those reared on the breast;having more strength, indeed, from the more nutritious food on which itlives. It will be thus less liable to infectious diseases, and morecapable of resisting the virulence of any danger that may attack it; andwithout in any way depreciating the nutriment of its natural food, wewish to impress on the mother's mind that there are many cases ofinfantine debility which might eventuate in rickets, curvature of thespine, or mesenteric disease, where the addition to, or totalsubstitution of, an artificial and more stimulating aliment, would notonly give tone and strength to the constitution, but at the same timerender the employment of mechanical means totally unnecessary. And, finally, though we would never--where the mother had the strength tosuckle her child--supersede the breast, we would insist on making it arule to accustom the child as early as possible to the use of anartificial diet, not only that it may acquire more vigour to help itover the ills of childhood, but that, in the absence of the mother, itmight not miss the maternal sustenance; and also for the parent's sake, that, should the milk, from any cause, become vitiated, or suddenlycease, the child can be made over to the bottle and the spoon withoutthe slightest apprehension of hurtful consequences. 

2498. To those persons unacquainted with the system, or who may havebeen erroneously informed on the matter, the rearing of a child by handmay seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties, and a large amount ofpersonal trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes theduty. This, however, is a fallacy in every respect, except as regardsthe fact of preparing the food; but even this extra amount of work, byadopting the course we shall lay down, may be reduced to a very smallsum of inconvenience; and as respects anxiety, the only thing callingfor care is the display of judgment in the preparation of the food. Thearticles required for the purpose of feeding an infant are a night-lamp, with its pan and lid, to keep the food warm; a nursing-bottle, with aprepared teat; and a small pap saucepan, for use by day. Of the lamp weneed hardly speak, most mothers being acquainted with its operation: butto those to whom it is unknown we may observe, that the flame from thefloating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above, in which thecovered pan that contains the food floats, keeping it at such a heatthat, when thinned by milk, it will be of a temperature suitable forimmediate use. Though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been latelyinvented, and some mounted with India-rubber nipples, the common glassbottle, with the calf's teat, is equal in cleanliness and utility toany; besides, the nipple put into the child's mouth is so white andnatural in appearance, that no child taken from the breast will refuseit. The black artificial ones of caoutchouc or gutta-percha areunnatural. The prepared teats can be obtained at any chemist's, and asthey are kept in spirits, they will require a little soaking in warmwater, and gentle washing, before being tied securely, by means of finetwine, round the neck of the bottle, just sufficient being leftprojecting for the child to grasp freely in its lips; for if left thefull length, or over long, it will be drawn too far into the mouth, andpossibly make the infant heave. When once properly adjusted, the nippleneed never be removed till replaced by a new one, which will hardly benecessary oftener than once a fortnight, though with care one will lastfor several weeks. The nursing-bottle should be thoroughly washed andcleaned every day, and always rinsed out before and after using it, thewarm water being squeezed through the nipple, to wash out any particlesof food that might lodge in the aperture, and become sour. The teat canalways be kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle, when notin use, into a narrow jug containing water, taking care to dry it first, and then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it intothe child's mouth. 

Food, and its Preparation. 

2499. The articles generally employed as food for infants consist ofarrowroot, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous food, biscuit-powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or mannacroup, as it is otherwise called, which, like tapioca, is the preparedpith of certain vegetable substances. Of this list the leastefficacious, though, perhaps, the most believed in, is arrowroot, whichonly as a mere agent, for change, and then only for a very short time, should ever be employed as a means of diet to infancy or childhood. Itis a thin, flatulent, and innutritious food, and incapable of supportinginfantine life with energy. Bread, though the universal _régime_ withthe labouring poor, where the infant's stomach and digestive powers area reflex, in miniature, of the father's, should never be given to aninfant under three months, and, even then, however finely beaten up andsmoothly made, is a very questionable diet. Flour, when well boiled, though infinitely better than arrowroot, is still only a kind offermentative paste, that counteracts its own good by after-acidity andflatulence. 

2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a pale brown mass, and finelypowdered, makes a far superior food to the others, and may be consideredas a very useful diet, especially for a change. Prepared groats may beclassed with arrowroot and raw flour, as being innutritious. Thearticles that now follow in our list are all good, and such as we could, with conscience and safety, trust to for the health and development ofany child whatever. 

2501. We may observe in this place, that an occasional change in thecharacter of the food is highly desirable, both as regards the healthand benefit of the child; and though the interruption should only lastfor a day, the change will be advantageous. 

2502. The packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the bestaliment that can be given from the first to a baby, and may becontinued, with the exception of an occasional change, withoutalteration of the material, till the child is able to take its regularmeals of animal and vegetable food. Some infants are so constituted asto require a frequent and total change in their system of living, seeming to thrive for a certain time on any food given to them, but ifpersevered in too long, declining in bulk and appearance as rapidly asthey had previously progressed. In such cases the food should beimmediately changed, and when that which appeared to agree best with thechild is resumed, it should be altered in its quality, and perhaps inits consistency. 

2503. For the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet, containing instructions for the making; but, whatever the food employedis, enough should be made at once to last the day and night; at first, about a pint basinful, but, as the child advances, a quart will hardlybe too much. In all cases, let the food boil a sufficient time, constantly stirring, and taking every precaution that it does not getburnt, in which case it is on no account to be used. 

2504. The food should always be made with water, the whole sweetened atonce, and of such a consistency that, when poured out, and it has hadtime to cool, it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard. Oneor two spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on thehob till the heat has softened it, when enough milk is to be added, andcarefully mixed with the food, till the whole has the consistency ofordinary cream; it is then to be poured into the nursing-bottle, and thefood having been drawn through to warm the nipple, it is to be placed inthe child's mouth. For the first month or more, half a bottleful will bequite enough to give the infant at one time; but, as the child grows, itwill be necessary not only to increase the quantity given at each time, but also gradually to make its food more consistent, and, after thethird month, to add an egg to every pint basin of food made. At nightthe mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp, instead ofthe saucepan--that is, enough for one supply, and, having lighted therush, she will find, on the waking of her child, the food sufficientlyhot to bear the cooling addition of the milk. But, whether night or day, the same food should never be heated twice, and what the child leavesshould be thrown away. 

2505. The biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceousfood, and both prepared much after the fashion of making starch. Butwhen tops-and-bottoms, or the whole biscuit, are employed, they requiresoaking in cold water for some time previous to boiling. The biscuit orbiscuits are then to be slowly boiled in as much water as will, whenthoroughly soft, allow of their being beaten by a three-pronged forkinto a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and which, when poured into a basinand become cold, will cut out like a custard. If two large biscuits havebeen so treated, and the child is six or seven months old, beat up twoeggs, sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it, and about a pint of skimmilk. Pour this on the beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirringconstantly; boil for about five minutes, pour into a basin, and use, when cold, in the same manner as the other. 

2506. This makes an admirable food, at once nutritious andstrengthening. When tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used, the quantity ofthe egg may be reduced, or altogether omitted. 

2507. Semolina, or manna croup, being in little hard grains, like a finemillet-seed, must be boiled for some time, and the milk, sugar, and eggadded to it on the fire, and boiled for a few minutes longer, and, whencold, used as the other preparations. 

2508. Many persons entertain a belief that cow's milk is hurtful toinfants, and, consequently, refrain from giving it; but this is a verygreat mistake, for both sugar and milk should form a large portion ofevery meal an infant takes. 

TEETHING AND CONVULSIONS. 

Fits, &c. , the consequence of Dentition, and how to be treated. --Thenumber and order of the Teeth, and manner in which they are cut. --Firstand Second Set. 

2509. About three months after birth, the infant's troubles may be saidto begin; teeth commence forming in the gums, causing pain andirritation in the mouth, and which, but for the saliva it causes to flowso abundantly, would be attended with very serious consequences. At thesame time the mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of theregimen imposed on her, and, taking some unusual or different food, excites diarrhoea or irritation in her child's stomach, which notunfrequently results in a rash on the skin, or slight febrile symptoms, which, if not subdued in their outset, superinduce some more seriousform of infantine disease. But, as a general rule, the teeth are theprimary cause of much of the child's sufferings, in consequence of thestate of nervous and functional irritation into which the system isthrown by their formation and progress out of the jaw and through thegums. We propose beginning this branch of our subject with that mostfertile source of an infant's suffering--

Teething. 

2510. That this subject may he better understood by the nurse andmother, and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that, to agreater or less degree, is experienced by all infants, may be madeintelligible to those who have the care of children, we shall commenceby giving a brief account of the formation of the teeth, the age atwhich they appear in the mouth, and the order in which they pierce thegums. The organs of mastication in the adult consist of 32 distinctteeth, 16 in either jaw; being, in fact, a double set. The teeth aredivided into 4 incisors, 2 canine, 4 first and second grinders, and 6molars; but in childhood the complement or first set consists of onlytwenty, and these only make their appearance as the development of theframe indicates the requirement of a different kind of food for thesupport of the system. At birth some of the first-cut teeth are found inthe cavities of the jaw, in a very small and rudimentary form; but thisis by no means universal. About the third month, the jaws, which arehollow and divided into separate cells, begin to expand, making room forthe slowly developing teeth, which, arranged for beauty and economy ofspace lengthwise, gradually turn their tops upwards, piercing the gum bytheir edges, which, being sharp, assist in cutting a passage through thesoft parts. There is no particular period at which children cut theirteeth, some being remarkably early, and others equally late. Theearliest age that we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was, _six weeks_. Such peculiarities are generally hereditary, and, as inthis case, common to a whole family. The two extremes are probablyrepresented by six and sixteen months. Pain and drivelling are theusual, but by no means the general, indications of teething. 

2511. About the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen, presenting a red, shiny appearance, while the salivary glands pour outan unusual quantity of saliva. After a time, a white line or round spotis observed on the top of one part of the gums, and the sharp edge ofthe tooth may be felt beneath if the finger is gently pressed on thepart. Through these white spots the teeth burst their way in thefollowing order:--

2512. Two incisors in the lower jaw are first cut, though, in general, some weeks elapse between the appearance of the first and the advent ofthe second. The next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw. The next in order are the remaining two incisors of the bottom, one oneach side, then two top and two bottom on each side, but not joining theincisors; and lastly, about the eighteenth or twentieth month, the foureye teeth, filling up the space left between the side teeth and theincisors; thus completing the infant's set of sixteen. Sometimes at thesame period, but more frequently some months later, four more doubleteeth slowly make their appearance, one on each side of each jaw, completing the entire series of the child's first set of twenty teeth. It is asserted that a child, while cutting its teeth, should eitherdribble excessively, vomit after every meal, or be greatly relaxed. Though one or other, or all of these at once, may attend a case ofteething, it by no means follows that any one of them should accompanythis process of nature, though there can be no doubt that where the painconsequent on the unyielding state of the gums, and the firmness of theskin that covers the tooth, is severe, a copious discharge of salivaacts beneficially in saving the head, and also in guarding the childfrom those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in theirteething are liable. 

2513. _The Symptoms_ that generally indicate the cutting of teeth, inaddition to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums, and increasedflow of saliva, are the restless and peevish state of the child, thehands being thrust into the mouth, and the evident pleasure imparted byrubbing the finger or nail gently along the gum; the lips are oftenexcoriated, and the functions of the stomach or bowels are out of order. In severe cases, occurring in unhealthy or scrofulous children, thereare, from the first, considerable fever, disturbed sleep, fretfulness, diarrhoea, rolling of the eyes, convulsive startings, laboriousbreathing, coma, or unnatural sleep, ending, unless the head is quicklyrelieved, in death. 

2514. The _Treatment_ in all cases of painful teething is remarkablysimple, and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperientmedicines, allaying the irritation in the gums by friction with a roughivory ring or a stale crust of broad, and when the head, lungs, or anyorgan is overloaded or unduly excited, to use the hot bath, and bythrowing the body into a perspiration, equalize the circulation, andrelieve the system from the danger of a fatal termination. 

2515. Besides these, there is another means, but that must be employedby a medical man; namely, scarifying the gums--an operation always safe, and which, when judiciously performed, and at a critical opportunity, will often snatch the child from the grasp of death. 

2516. There are few subjects on which mothers have often formed suchstrong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant's gums, some rather seeing their child go into fits--and by the unrelievedirritation endangering inflammation of the brain, water on the head, rickets, and other lingering affections--than permit the surgeon toafford instant relief by cutting through the hard skin, which, like abladder over the stopper of a bottle, effectually confines the tooth tothe socket, and prevents it piercing the soft, spongy substance of thegum. This prejudice is a great error, as we shall presently show; for, so far from hurting the child, there is nothing that will so soonconvert an infant's tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painfulteething; that is, if effectually done, and the skin of the tooth bedivided. 

2517. Though teething is a natural function, and to an infant in perfecthealth should be unproductive of pain, yet in general it is not only afertile cause of suffering, but often a source of alarm and danger; theformer, from irritation in the stomach and bowels, deranging the wholeeconomy of the system, and the latter, from coma and fits, that mayexcite alarm in severe cases; and the danger, that eventuates in someinstances, from organic disease of the head or spinal marrow. 

2518. We shall say nothing in this place of "rickets, " or "water on thehead, " which are frequent results of dental irritation, but proceed tofinish our remarks on the treatment of teething. Though stronglyadvocating the lancing of the gums in teething, and when there are anysevere head-symptoms, yet it should never be needlessly done, or beforebeing satisfied that the tooth is fully formed, and is out of thesocket, and under the gum. When assured on these points, the gum shouldbe cut lengthwise, and from the top of the gum downwards to the tooth, in an horizontal direction, thus----, and for about half an inch inlength. The operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction, cutting across the gum, in the centre of the first incision, and forminga cross, thus +. The object of this double incision is to insure aretraction of the cut parts, and leave an open way for the tooth tostart from--an advantage not to be obtained when only one incision ismade; for unless the tooth immediately follows the lancing, the openingreunites, and the operation has to be repeated. That this operation isvery little or not at all painful, is evidenced by the suddenness withwhich the infant falls asleep after the lancing, and awakes inapparently perfect health, though immediately before the use of thegum-lancet, the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions. 

Convulsions, or Infantine Fits. 

2519. From their birth till after teething, infants are more or lesssubject or liable to sudden fits, which often, without any assignablecause, will attack the child in a moment, and while in the mother'sarms; and which, according to their frequency, and the age and strengthof the infant, are either slight or dangerous. 

2520. Whatever may have been the remote cause, the immediate one is someirritation of the nervous system, causing convulsions, or an effusion tothe head, inducing coma. In the first instance, the infant cries outwith a quick, short scream, rolls up its eyes, arches its bodybackwards, its arms become bent and fixed, and the fingers parted; thelips and eyelids assume a dusky leaden colour, while the face remainspale, and the eyes open, glassy, or staring. This condition may or maynot be attended with muscular twitchings of the mouth, and convulsiveplunges of the arms. The fit generally lasts from one to three minutes, when the child recovers with a sigh, and the relaxation of the body. Inthe other case, the infant is attacked at once with total insensibilityand relaxation of the limbs, coldness of the body and suppressedbreathing; the eyes, when open, being dilated, and presenting a dimglistening appearance; the infant appearing, for the moment, to be dead. 

2521. _Treatment. _-The first step in either case is, to immerse thechild in a hot bath up to the chin; or if sufficient hot water cannot beprocured to cover the body, make a hip-bath of what can be obtained;and, while the left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbentposition, with the right scoop up the water, and run it over the chestof the patient. When sufficient water can be obtained, the spine shouldbe briskly rubbed while in the bath; when this cannot be done, lay thechild on the knees, and with the fingers dipped in brandy, rub the wholelength of the spine vigorously for two or three minutes, and whenrestored to consciousness, give occasionally a teaspoonful of weakbrandy and water or wine and water. 

2522. An hour after the bath, it may be necessary to give an aperientpowder, possibly also to repeat the dose for once or twice every threehours; in which case the following prescription is to be employed. Takeof

 Powdered scammony 6 grains. Grey powder 6 grains. Antimonial powder 4 grains. Lump sugar 20 grains. 

Mix thoroughly, and divide into three powders, which are to be taken asadvised for an infant one year old; for younger or weakly infants, divide into four powders, and give as the other. For thirst and febrilesymptoms, give drinks of barley-water, or cold water, and every threehours put ten to fifteen drops of spirits of sweet nitre in adessert-spoonful of either beverage. 

THRUSH, AND ITS TREATMENT. 

2523. This is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject, and inwhom alone it may be said to be a disease; for when thrush shows itselfin adult or advanced life, it is not as a disease proper, but only as asymptom, or accessory, of some other ailment, generally of a chroniccharacter, and should no more be classed as a separate affection thanthe petechae, or dark-coloured spots that appear in malignant measles, may be considered a distinct affection. 

2524. Thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of thealimentary canal, whereby there are formed small vesicles, or bladders, filled with a thick mucous secretion, which, bursting, discharge theircontents, and form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel. To makethis formal but unavoidable description intelligible, we must beg thereader's patience while we briefly explain terms that may appear to manyso unmeaning, and make the pathology of thrush fully familiar. 

2525. The whole digestive canal, of which the stomach and bowels areonly a part, is covered, from the lips, eyes, and ears downwards, with athin glairy tissue, like the skin that lines the inside of an egg, called the mucous membrane; this membrane is dotted all over, in a stateof health, by imperceptible points, called follicles, through which thesaliva, or mucous secreted by the membrane, is poured out. 

2526. These follicles, or little glands, then, becoming enlarged, andfilled with a congealed fluid, constitute thrush in its first stage; andwhen the child's lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls, then, asthese break and discharge, the second stage, or that of ulceration, setsin. 

2527. _Symptoms. _--Thrush is generally preceded by considerableirritation, by the child crying and fretting, showing more than ordinaryredness of the lips and nostrils, hot fetid breath, with relaxed bowels, and dark feculent evacuations; the water is scanty and high-coloured;whilst considerable difficulty in swallowing, and much thirst, are theother symptoms, which a careful observation of the little patient makesmanifest. 

2528. The situation and character of thrush show at once that the causeis some irritation of the mucous membrane, and can proceed only from thenature and quality of the food. Before weaning, this must be looked forin the mother, and the condition of the milk; after that time, in thecrude and indigestible nature of the food given. In either case, thisexciting cause of the disease must be at once stopped. When it proceedsfrom the mother, it is always best to begin by physicking the infantthrough the parent; that is to say, let the parent first take themedicine, which will sufficiently affect the child through the milk:this plan has the double object of benefiting the patient and, at thesame time, correcting the state of the mother, and improving thecondition of her milk. In the other case, when the child is being fed byhand, then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given, andsubstituting farinaceous food, custards, blanc-mange, and ground-ricepuddings. 

2529. As an aperient medicine for the mother, the best thing she cantake is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day, in a cup of cold water; and every second day, for two or three times, anaperient pill. 

2530. As the thrush extends all over the mouth, throat, stomach, andbowels, the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseasedsurface is proportionately great, and before attempting to act on such atender surface by opening medicine, the better plan is to soothe by anemollient mixture; and, for that purpose, let the following be prepared. Take of

 Castor oil 2 drachms. Sugar 1 drachm. Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic half a drachm. 

Triturate till the oil is incorporated, then add slowly--

 Mint-water One ounce and a half Laudanum Ten drops

Half a teaspoonful three times a day, to an infant from one to two yearsold; a teaspoonful from two to three years old; and a dessertspoonful atany age over that time. After two days' use of the mixture, one of thefollowing powders should be given twice a day, accompanied with one dosedaily of the mixture:--

 Grey powder 20 grains. Powdered rhubarb 15 grains. Scammony 10 grains. Mix. 

Divide into twelve powders, for one year; eight powders, from one totwo; and six powders, from two to six years old. After that age, doublethe strength, by giving the quantity of two powders at once. 

2531. It is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouthfor thrush; but it is always better to treat the diseaseconstitutionally rather than locally. The first steps, therefore, to beadopted are, to remove or correct the exciting cause--the mother's milkor food; allay irritation by a warm bath and the castor-oil mixture, followed by and conjoined with the powders. 

2532. To those, however, who wish to try the honey process, the bestpreparation to use is the following:-Rub down one ounce of honey withtwo drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to the lips and mouthevery four or six hours. 

2533. It is a popular belief, and one most devoutly cherished by manynurses and elderly persons, that everybody must, at some time of theirlife, between birth and death, have an attack of thrush, and if not ininfancy, or prime of life, it will surely attack them on theirdeath-bed, in a form more malignant than if the patient had beenaffected with the malady earlier; the black thrush with which they arethen reported to be affected being, in all probability, the petechae orpurple spots that characterize the worst form, and often the last stage, of typhoid fever. 

2534. In general, very little medicine is needed in this disease of thethrush--an alterative powder, or a little magnesia, given once or twice, being all, with the warm bath, that, in the great majority of cases, isneeded to restore the mucous membrane to health. As thrush is caused byan excess of heat, or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomachand bowels, whatever will counteract this state, by throwing the heat onthe surface, must materially benefit, if not cure, the disease: and thatmeans every mother has at hand, in the form of a _warm bath_. After theapplication of this, a little magnesia to correct the acidity existingalong the surface of the mucous membrane, is often all that is needed tothrow the system into such a state as will effect its own cure. Thisfavourable state is indicated by an excessive flow of saliva, or what iscalled "dribbling, " and by a considerable amount of relaxation of thebowels-a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea, and checkedas if a disease, but rather, for the day or two it continues, encouragedas a critical evacuant. 

2535. Should there be much debility in the convalescence, half ateaspoonful of stee wine, given twice a day in a little barley-water, will be found sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic. This, with theprecaution of changing the child's food, or, when it lives on themother, of correcting the quality of the milk by changing her own diet, and, by means of an antacid or aperient, improving the state of thesecretion. Such is all the treatment that this disease in generalrequires. 

2536. The class of diseases we are now approaching are the mostimportant, both in their pathological features and in their consequenceson the constitution, of any group or individual disease that assails thehuman body; and though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frameof childhood, are yet by no means confined to that period. These arecalled Eruptive Fevers, and embrace chicken-pox, cow-pox, small-pox, scarlet fever, measles, milary fever, and erysipelas, or St. Anthony'sfire. 

2537. The general character of all these is, that they are contagious, and, as a general rule, attack a person only once in his lifetime; thattheir chain of diseased actions always begins with fever, and that, after an interval of from one to four days, the fever is followed by aneruption of the skin. 

CHICKEN-POX, OR GLASS-POX; AND COW-POX, OR VACCINATION. 

2538. CHICKEN-POX, or GLASS-POX, may, in strict propriety, be classed asa mild variety of small-pox, presenting all the mitigated symptoms ofthat formidable disease. Among many physicians it is, indeed, classed assmall-pox, and not a separate disease; but as this is not the place todiscuss such questions, and as we profess to give only facts, the resultof our own practical experience, we shall treat this affection ofglass-pox or chicken-pox, as we ourselves have found it, as a distinctand separate disease. 

2539. Chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented bysmall-pox, with this difference, that, in the case of chicken-pox, eachsymptom is particularly slight. The heat of body is much less acute, andthe principal symptoms are difficulty of breathing, headache, coatedtongue, and nausea, which sometimes amounts to vomiting. After a term ofgeneral irritability, heat, and restlessness, about the fourth day, orbetween the third and fourth, an eruption makes its appearance over theface, neck, and body, in its first two stages closely resemblingsmall-pox, with this especial difference, that whereas the pustules insmall-pox have _flat_ and _depressed_ centres--an infalliblecharacteristic of small-pox--the pustules in chicken-pox remain_globular_, while the fluid in them changes from a transparent white toa straw-coloured liquid, which begins to exude and disappear about theeighth or ninth day, and, in mild cases, by the twelfth desquamates, orpeels off entirely. 

2540. There can be no doubt that chicken-pox, like small-pox, iscontagious, and under certain states of the atmosphere becomes endemic. Parents should, therefore, avoid exposing young children to the dangerof infection by taking them where it is known to exist, as chicken-pox, in weakly constitutions, or in very young children, may superinducesmall-pox, the one disease either running concurrently with the other, or discovering itself as the other declines. This, of course, is acondition that renders the case very hazardous, as the child has tostruggle against two diseases at once, or before it has recruitedstrength from the attack of the first. 

2541. _Treatment_. --In all ordinary cases of chicken-pox--and it is veryseldom it assumes any complexity--the whole treatment resolves itselfinto the use of the warm bath, and a course of gentle aperients. Thebath should be used when the oppression of the lungs renders thebreathing difficult, or the heat and dryness of the skin, with theundeveloped rash beneath the surface, shows the necessity for its use. 

2542. As the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state ofsuppuration, as in the other disease, there is no fear of _pitting_ ordisfigurement, except in very severe forms, which, however, happen soseldom as not to merit apprehension. When the eruption subsides, however, the face may be washed with elder-flower water, and the routinefollowed which is prescribed in the convalescent state of small-pox. 

2543. COW-POX, properly speaking, is an artificial disease, establishedin a healthy body as a prophylactic, or preventive agent, against themore serious attack of small-pox, and is merely that chain of slightfebrile symptoms and local irritation, consequent on the specific actionof the lymph of the vaccination, in its action on the circulating systemof the body. This is not the place to speak of the benefits conferred onmankind by the discovery of vaccination, not only as the preserver ofthe human features from a most loathsome disfigurement, but as asanitary agent in the prolongation of life. 

2544. Fortunately the State has now made it imperative on all parents tohave their children vaccinated before, or by the end of, the twelfthweek; thus doing away, as far as possible, with the danger to publichealth proceeding from the ignorance or prejudice of those parents whosewant of information on the subject makes them object to the employmentof this specific preventive; for though vaccination has been proved_not_ to be _always_ an infallible guard against small-pox, the attackis always much lighter, should it occur, and is seldom, if indeed_ever_, fatal after the precaution of vaccination. The best time tovaccinate a child is after the sixth and before the twelfth week, if itis in perfect health, but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent, andany danger exists of the infant taking the disease. It is customary, andalways advisable, to give the child a mild aperient powder one or twodays before inserting the lymph in the arm; and should measles, scarletfever, or any other disease arise during the progress of the pustule, the child, when recovered, should be _re-vaccinated_, and the lymphtaken from its arm on no account used for vaccinating purposes. 

2545. The disease of cow-pox generally takes twenty days to complete itscourse; in other words, the maturity and declension of the pustule takesthat time to fulfil its several changes. The mode of vaccination iseither to insert the matter, or lymph, taken from a healthy child, underthe cuticle in several places on both arms, or, which is still better, to make three slight scratches, or abrasions, with a lancet on one armin this manner, , ", , and work into the irritated parts the lymph, allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting down the infant'ssleeve; by this means absorption is insured, and the unnecessary pain ofseveral pustules on both arms avoided. No apparent change is observableby the eye for several days; indeed, not till the fourth, in many cases, is there any evidence of a vesicle; about the fifth day, however, a pinkareola, or circle, is observed round one or all of the places, surrounding a small pearly vesicle or bladder. This goes on deepening inhue till the seventh or eighth day, when the vesicle is about an inch indiameter, with a depressed centre; on the ninth the edges are elevated, and the surrounding part hard and inflamed. The disease is now at itsheight, and the pustule should be opened, if not for the purpose ofvaccinating other children, to allow the escape of the lymph, and subduethe inflammatory action. After the twelfth day the centre is covered bya brown scab, and the colour of the swelling becomes darker, graduallydeclining in hardness and colour till the twentieth, when the scabfalls, off, leaving a small pit, or cicatrix, to mark the seat of thedisease, and for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination. 

2546. In some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm isexcessive, and extremely painful, and the fever, about the ninth ortenth day, very high; the pustule, therefore, at that time, shouldsometimes be opened, the arm fomented every two hours with a warm breadpoultice, and an aperient powder given to the infant. 

MEASLES AND SCARLET FEVER, WITH THE TREATMENT OF BOTH. 

Measles. 

2547. This much-dreaded disease, which forms the next subject in ourseries of infantine diseases, and which entails more evils on the healthof childhood than any other description of physical suffering to whichthat age of life is subject, may be considered more an affection of thevenous circulation, tending to general and local congestion, attendedwith a diseased condition of the blood, than either as a fever or aninflammation; and though generally classed before or after scarletfever, is, in its pathology and treatment, irrespective of itsafter-consequences, as distinct and opposite as one disease can well befrom another. 

4548. As we have already observed, measles are always characterized bythe running at the nose and eyes, and great oppression of breathing; so, in the mode of treatment, two objects are to be held especially in view;first, to unload the congested state of the lungs, --the cause of theoppressed breathing; and, secondly, to act vigorously, both during thedisease and afterwards, on the bowels. At the same time it cannot be toostrongly borne in mind, that though the patient in measles should on noaccount be kept unduly hot, more care than in most infantine complaintsshould be taken to guard the body from _cold_, or any abrupt changes oftemperature. With these special observations, we shall proceed to give adescription of the disease, as recognized by its usual--

2549. _Symptoms_, which commence with cold chills and flushes, lassitude, heaviness, pain in the head, and drowsiness, cough, hoarseness, and extreme difficulty of breathing, frequent sneezing, deduction or running at the eyes and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting, thirst, a furred tongue; the pulse throughout is quick, and sometimesfull and soft, at others hard and small, with other indications of aninflammatory nature. 

2550. On the third day, small red points make their appearance, first onthe face and neck, gradually extending over the upper and lower part ofthe body. On the fifth day, the vivid red of the eruption changes into abrownish hue; and, in two or three days more, the rash entirelydisappears, leaving a loose powdery desquamation on the skin, which rubsoff like dandriff. At this stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequentlycomes on, which, being what is called "critical, " should never bechecked, unless seriously severe. Measles sometimes assume a typhoid ormalignant character, in which form the symptoms are all greatlyexaggerated, and the case from the first becomes both doubtful anddangerous. In this condition the eruption comes out sooner, and only inpatches; and often, after showing for a few hours, suddenly recedes, presenting, instead of the usual florid red, a dark purple or blackishhue; a dark brown fur forms on the gums and mouth, the breathing becomeslaborious, delirium supervenes, and, if unrelieved, is followed by coma;a fetid diarrhoea takes place, and the patient sinks under the congestedstate of the lungs and the oppressed functions of the brain. 

2551. The unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever, the excessive heat and dryness of the skin, hurried and short breathing, and a particularly hard pulse. The sequels, or after-consequences, ofmeasles are, croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind theear, ophthalmia, and glandular swellings in other parts of the body. 

2552. _Treatment_. --In the first place, the patient should be kept in acool room, the temperature of which must be regulated to suit thechild's feelings of comfort, and the diet adapted to the strictestprinciples of abstinence. When the inflammatory symptoms are severe, bleeding, in some form, is often necessary, though, when adopted, itmust be in the _first stage_ of the disease; and, if the lungs are theapprehended seat of the inflammation, two or more leeches, according tothe age and strength of the patient, must be applied to the upper partof the chest, followed by a small blister; or the blister may besubstituted for the leeches, the attendant bearing in mind, that thebenefit effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented byplunging the feet into very hot water about a couple of hours afterapplying the blister, and kept in the water for about two minutes. Andlet it further be remembered, that this immersion of the feet in hotwater may be adopted at any time or stage of the disease; and that, whenever the _head_ or _lungs_ are oppressed, relief will _always_accrue from its sudden and brief employment. When the symptoms commencewith much shivering, and the skin early assumes a hot, dry character, the appearance of the rash will be facilitated, and all the othersymptoms rendered milder, if the patient is put into a warm bath, andkept in the water for about three minutes. Or, where that is notconvenient, the following process, which will answer quite as well, canbe substituted:--Stand the child, naked, in a tub, and, having firstprepared several jugs of sufficiently warm water, empty them, in quicksuccession, over the patient's shoulders and body; immediately wrap in ahot blanket, and put the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep thatalways follows the effusion or bath. This agent, by lowering thetemperature of the skin, and opening the pores, producing a naturalperspiration, and unloading the congested state of the lungs, in mostcases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches and ablister. Whether any of these external means have been employed or not, the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperientpowders and a saline mixture, as prescribed in the followingformularies; at the same time, as a beverage to quench the thirst, let aquantity of barley-water be made, slightly acidulated by the juice of anorange, and partially sweetened by some sugar-candy; and of which, whenproperly made and cold, let the patient drink as often as thirst, or thedryness of the mouth, renders necessary. 

2553. _Aperient Powders_. --Take of scammony and jalap, each 24 grains;grey powder and powdered antimony, each 18 grains. Mix and divide into12 powders, if for a child between two and four years of age; into 8powders, if for a child between four and eight years of ago; and into 6powders for between eight and twelve years. One powder to be given, in alittle jelly or sugar-and-water, every three or four hours, according tothe severity of the symptoms. 

2554. _Saline Mixture_. --Take of mint-water, 6 ounces; powdered nitre, 20 grains; antimonial wine, 3 drachms; spirits of nitre, 2 drachms;syrup of saffron, 2 drachms. Mix. To children under three years, give ateaspoonful every two hours; from that age to six, a dessertspoonful atthe same times; and a tablespoonful every three or four hours tochildren between six and twelve. 

2555. The object of these aperient powders is to keep up a steady butgentle action on the bowels; but, whenever it seems necessary toadminister a stronger dose, and effect a brisk action on the digestiveorgans, --a course particularly imperative towards the close of thedisease, --two of these powders given at once, according to the age, willbe found to produce that effect; that is, two of the twelve for a childunder four years, and two of the eight, and two of the six, according tothe age of the patient. 

2556. When the difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive, as itgenerally does towards night, a hot bran poultice, laid on the chest, will be always found highly beneficial. The diet throughout must belight, and consist of farinaceous food, such as rice and sago puddings, beef-tea and toast; and not till convalescence sets in should hard oranimal food be given. 

2557. When measles assume the malignant form, the advice just given mustbe broken through; food of a nutritious and stimulating character shouldbe at once substituted, and administered in conjunction with wine, andeven spirits, and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus. But, as this form of measles is not frequent, and, if occurring, hardlylikely to be treated without assistance, it is unnecessary to enter onthe minutiae of its practice here. What we have prescribed, in almostall cases, will be found sufficient to meet every emergency, withoutresorting to a multiplicity of agents. 

2558. The great point to remember in measles is, not to give up thetreatment with the apparent subsidence of the disease, as the_after-consequences_ of measles are too often more serious, and to bemore dreaded, than the measles themselves. To guard against this danger, and thoroughly purify the system, after the subsidence of all thesymptoms of the disease, a corrective course of medicine, and a regimenof exercise, should be adopted for some weeks after the cure of thedisease. To effect this, an active aperient powder should be given everythree or four clays, with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mixture, with as much exercise, by walking, running after a hoop, or other bodilyexertion, as the strength of the child and the state of the atmospherewill admit, the patient being, wherever possible, removed to a purer airas soon as convalescence warrants the change. 

2559. _Tonic Mixture_. --Take of infusion of rose-leaves, 6 ounces;quinine, 8 grains; diluted sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix. Dose, fromhalf a teaspoonful up to a dessertspoonful, once a day, according to theago of the patient. 

Scarlatina, or Scarlet Fever. 

2560. Though professional accuracy has divided this disease into severalforms, we shall keep to the one disease most generally mot with, thecommon or simple scarlet fever, which, in all cases, is characterized byan excessive heat on the skin, sore throat, and a peculiar speckledappearance of the tongue. 

2561. _Symptoms_. --Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin, quick pulse, with difficulty of swallowing; the tongue is coated, presenting through its fur innumerable specks, the elevated papillae ofthe tongue, which gives it the speckled character, that, if not theinvariable sign of scarlet fever, is only met with in cases closelyanalogous to that disease. Between the _second_ and __third_ day, butmost frequently on the _third_, a bright red efflorescence breaks out inpatches on the face, neck, and back, from which it extends over thetrunk and extremities, always showing thicker and deeper in colourwherever there is any pressure, such as the elbows, back, and hips; whenthe eruption is well out, the skin presents the appearance of a boiledlobster-shell. At first, the skin is smooth, but, as the diseaseadvances, perceptible roughness is apparent, from the elevation of therash, or, more properly, the pores of the skin. On the _fifth_ and_sixth_ days the eruption begins to decline, and by the _eighth_ hasgenerally entirely disappeared. During the whole of this period, thereis, more or less, constant sore throat. 

2562. The _Treatment_ of scarlet fever is, in general, very simple. Where the heat is great, and the eruption comes out with difficulty, orrecedes as soon as it appears, the body should be sponged with coldvinegar-and-water, or tepid water, as in measles, poured over the chestand body, the patient being, as in that disease, wrapped in a blanketand put to bed, and the same powders and mixture ordered in measlesadministered, with the addition of a constant hot bran poultice roundthe throat, which should be continued from the first symptom till a dayor two after the declension of the rash. The same low diet and coolingdrink, with the same general instructions, are to be obeyed in this asin the former disease. 

2563. When the fever runs high in the first stage, and there is muchnausea, before employing the effusions of water, give the patient anemetic, of equal, parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, in doses offrom a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to age. By these means, nine out of every ten cases of scarlatina may be safely andexpeditiously cured, especially if the temperature of the patient's roomis kept at an even standard of about sixty degrees. 

HOOPING-COUGH, CROUP, AND DIARRHOEA, WITH THEIR MODE OF TREATMENT. 

Hooping-Cough. 

2564. THIS is purely a spasmodic disease, and is only infectious throughthe faculty of imitation, a habit that all children are remarkably aptto fall into; and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough, ithas been from the same cause, and is as readily accounted for, on theprinciple of imitation, as that the gaping of one person will excite orpredispose a whole party to follow the same spasmodic example. If anyone associates for a few days with a person who stammers badly, he willfind, when released from his company, that the sequence of hisarticulation and the fluency of his speech are, for a time, gone; and itwill be a matter of constant vigilance, and some difficulty, to overcomethe evil of so short an association. The manner in which a number ofschool-girls will, one after another, fall into a fit on beholding oneof their number attacked with epilepsy, must be familiar to many. Theseseveral facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this spasmodicdisease. Every effort should, therefore, be directed, mentally andphysically, to break the chain of nervous action, on which thecontinuance of the cough depends. 

2565. _Symptoms. _--Hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression ofbreathing, thirst, quick pulse, hoarseness, and a hard, dry cough. Thisstate may exist without any change from one to two or three weeks beforethe peculiar feature of the disease-the _hoop_-sets in. As thecharacteristics of this cough are known to all, it is unnecessary toenter here, physiologically, on the subject. We shall, therefore, merelyremark that the frequent vomiting and bleeding at the mouth or nose arefavourable signs, and proceed to the

2566. _Treatment_, which should consist in keeping up a state of nauseaand vomiting. For this purpose, give the child doses of ipecacuanha andantimonial wines, in equal parts, and quantities varying from half toone and a half teaspoonful once a day, or, when the expectoration ishard and difficult of expulsion, giving the following cough mixtureevery four hours. Take of

 Syrup of squills 1/2 ounce. Antimonial wine 1 ounce. Laudanum 15 drops. Syrup of Toulou 2 drachms. Water 1-1/2 ounce. 

Mix. The dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful. When thecough is urgent, the warm bath is to be used, and either one or twoleeches applied over the breastbone, or else a small blister laid on thelower part of the throat. 

2567. Such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough; but there is amoral regimen, based on the nature of the disease, which should never beomitted. And, on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of themind will arrest a person in the act of sneezing or gaping, so the likemeans should be adopted with the hooping-cough patient; and, in thefirst stage, before the _hooping_ has been added, the parent shouldendeavour to break the paroxysm of the cough by abruptly attracting thepatient's attention, and thus, if possible, preventing the cough fromreaching that height when the ingulp of air gives the hoop or crow thatmarks the disease; but when once that symptom has set in, it becomesstill more necessary to endeavour, by even measures of intimidation, tobreak the spasmodic chain of the cough. Exercise in the open air, whendry, is also requisite, and charge of scene and air in all cases is ofabsolute necessity, and may be adopted at any stage of the disease. 

Croup. 

2568. This is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseasesto which infancy and childhood are liable, and is purely an inflammatoryaffection, attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining thewindpipe and bronchial tubes, and from the effect of which a false orloose membrane is formed along the windpipe, resembling in appearancethe finger of a glove suspended in the passage, and, consequently, terminating the life of the patient by suffocation; for, as the lowerend grows together and becomes closed, no air can enter the lungs, andthe child dies choked. All dull, fat, and heavy children are peculiarlypredisposed to this disease, and those with short necks and who make awheezing noise in their natural breathing. Croup is always sudden in itsattack, and rapid in its career, usually proving fatal within threedays; most frequently commences in the night, and generally attackingchildren between the ages of three and ten years. Mothers should, therefore, be on their guard who have children predisposed to thisdisease, and immediately resort to the means hereafter advised. 

2569. _Symptoms_. --Languor and restlessness, hoarseness, wheezing, andshort, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep, the child often plucking at its throat with its fingers; difficulty ofbreathing, which quickly becomes hard and laboured, causing greatanxiety of the countenance, and the veins of the neck to swell andbecome knotted; the voice in speaking acquires a sharp, crowing, orcroupy sound, while the inspirations have a harsh, metallic intonation. After a few hours, a quantity of thick, ropy mucus is thrown out, hanging about the mouth, and causing suffocating fits of coughing toexpel. 

2570. Treatment. --Place the child immediately in a hot bath up to thethroat; and, on removal from the water, give an emetic of the antimonialor ipecacuanha wine, and, when the vomiting has subsided, lay a longblister down the front of the throat, and administer one of thefollowing powders every twenty minutes to a child from three to sixyears of age. 

2571. Take of calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar, 30 grains. Mix accurately, and divide into 12 powders. For a child fromsix to twelve years, divide into 6 powders, and give one everyhalf-hour. 

2572. Should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours, apply oneor two leeches to the throat, and put mustard poultices to the foot andthighs, retaining them about eight minutes; and, in extreme cases, amustard poultice to the spine between the shoulders, and at the sametime rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws. 

2573. Such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severecases of croup; but, in the milder and more general form, the followingabridgment will, in all probability, be all that will berequired:--First, the hot bath; second, the emetic; third, a mustardplaster round the throat for five minutes; fourth, the powders; fifth, another emetic in six hours, if needed, and the powders continuedwithout intermission while the urgency of the symptoms continues. Whenrelief has been obtained, these are to be discontinued, and a dose ofsenna tea given to act on the bowels. 

Diarrhoea. 

2574. The diarrhoea with which children are so frequently affected, especially in infancy, should demand the nurse's immediate attention, and when the secretion, from its clayey colour, indicates an absence ofbile, a powder composed of 3 grains of grey powder and 1 grain ofrhubarb, should be given twice, with an interval of four hours betweeneach dose, to a child from one to two years, and, a day or twoafterwards, an aperient powder containing the same ingredients andquantities, with the addition of 2 or 3 grains of scammony. For therelaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach, or acidity in thebowels, a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two orthree times a day. 

2575. When much griping and pain attend the diarrhoea, half ateaspoonful of Dalby's Carminative (the best of all patent medicines)should be given, either with or without a small quantity of castor oilto carry off the exciting cause. 

2576. For any form of diarrhoea that, by excessive action, demands aspeedy correction, the most efficacious remedy that can be employed inall ages and conditions of childhood is the tincture of Kino, of whichfrom 10 to 30 drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, areto be given every two or three hours till the undue action has beenchecked. Often the change of diet to rice, milk, eggs, or thesubstitution of animal for vegetable food, or _vice versa_, will correctan unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea. 

2577. A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may bekept in the house, and employed with advantage, whenever the child is inpain or griped, by dropping 5 grains of oil of aniseed and 2 ofpeppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of magnesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of thismay be given in a little water at any time, and always with benefit. 

THE DOCTOR. 

CHAPTER XLIII. 

2578. "Time, " according to the old proverb, "is money;" and it may also, in many cases, and with equal truthfulness, be said to be life; for afew moments, in great emergencies, often turn the balance betweenrecovery and death. This applies more especially to all kinds ofpoisoning, fits, submersion in water, or exposure to noxious gases; andmany accidents. If people knew how to act during the interval that mustnecessarily elapse from the moment that a medical man is sent for untilhe arrives, many lives might be saved, which now, unhappily, are lost. Generally speaking, however, nothing is done--all is confusion andfright; and the surgeon, on his arrival, finds that death has alreadyseized its victim, who, had his friends but known a few rough rules fortheir guidance, might have been rescued. We shall, therefore, in aseries of papers, give such information as to the means to be employedin event of accidents, injuries, &c. , as, by the aid of a gentleman oflarge professional experience, we are warranted in recommending. 

List of Drugs, &c. , necessary to carry out all Instructions. 

2579. We append at once A LIST OF DRUGS, &c. , and a few PRESCRIPTIONSnecessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series ofarticles. It will be seen that they are few--they are not expensive; andby laying in a little stock of them, our instructions will be of instantvalue in all cases of accident, &c. --The drugs are--Antimonial Wine. Antimonial Powder. Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate ofPotash. Compound Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. CompoundTincture of Camphor. Epsom Salts. Goulard's Extract. Jalap in Powder. Linseed Oil. Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentine. Opium, powdered, and Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment, Opodeldoc. Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Turner's Cerate. --To which should beadded: Common Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of smallScales with Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. AProbe. A pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles. 

2580. The following PRESCRIPTIONS may be made up for a few shillings;and, by keeping them properly labelled, and by referring to the remarkson the treatment of any particular case, much suffering, and, perhaps, some lives, may be saved. 

2581. _Draught_. --Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and ahalf of water. This draught is to be repeated in a quarter of an hour ifvomiting does not take place. 

2582. _Clyster_. --Two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint ofwarm gruel. 

2583. _Liniments_. --1. Equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil wellmixed together. [Lime-water is made thus: Pour 6 pints of boiling waterupon 1/4 lb. Of lime; mix well together, and when cool, strain theliquid from off the lime which has fallen to the bottom, taking care toget it as clear as possible. ] 2. Compound camphor liniment. 

2584. _Lotions_. --1. Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and 2tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. --2. Mix 1/2 oz. Ofsal-ammoniac, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of ginor whisky, in half a pint of water. 

2585. _Goulard Lotion_. --1 drachm of sugar of lead, 2 pints ofrain-water, 2 teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine. For inflammation of theeyes or elsewhere:--The better way of making Goulard Lotion, if for theeyes, is to add to 6 oz. Of distilled water, or water that has been wellboiled, 1 drachm of the extract of lead. 

2586. _Opodeldoc_. --This lotion being a valuable application forsprains, lumbago, weakness of joints, &c. , and it being difficult toprocure either pure or freshly made, we give a recipe for itspreparation. Dissolve 1 oz. Of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits ofwine; then dissolve 4 oz. Of hard white Spanish soap, scraped thin, in 4oz. Of oil of rosemary, and mix them together. 

2587. _The Common Black Draught_. --Infusion of senna 10 drachms; Epsomsalts 10 drachms; tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamums, compound spirit of lavender, of each 1 drachm. Families who make blackdraught in quantity, and wish to preserve it for some time withoutspoiling, should add about 2 drachms of spirits of hartshorn to eachpint of the strained mixture, the use of this drug being to prevent itsbecoming mouldy or decomposed. A simpler and equally efficacious form ofblack draught is made by infusing 1/2 oz. Of Alexandrian senna, 3 oz. OfEpsom salts, and 2 drachms of bruised ginger and coriander-seeds, forseveral hours in a pint of boiling water, straining the liquor, andadding either 2 drachms of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to thewhole, and giving 3 tablespoonfuls for a dose to an adult. 

2588. _Mixtures_--1. _Aperient_. --Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts inhalf a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose, andrepeat it in three or four hours if necessary. 

2589. 2. _Fever Mixture_. --Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms ofcarbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and atablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of water. 

2590. 3. _Myrrh and Aloes Pills_. --Ten grains made into two pills arethe dose for a full-grown person. 

2591. 4. _Compound Iron Pills_. --Dose for a full-grown person: 10 grainsmade into two pills. 

2592. _Pills_. --1. Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity ofantimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Dose for a full-grown person: two pills. --2. Mix 5 grains of blue pilland the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth together, andmake into two pills, the dose for a full-grown person. 

2593. _Powders_. --Mix a grain of calomel and 4 grains of powdered jalaptogether. 

2594. In all cases, the dose of medicines given is to be regulated bythe age of the patient. 

2595. _Abernethy's Plan for making a Bread-and-Water Poultice_. --Firstscald out a basin; then having put in some boiling water, throw incoarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When the bread hassoaked up as much water as it will imbibe, drain off the remainingwater, and there will be left a light pulp. Spread it a third of an inchthick on folded linen, and apply it when of the temperature of a warmbath. To preserve it moist, occasionally drop warm water on it. 

2596. _Linseed-Meal Poultice_. --"Scald your basin, by pouring a littlehot water into it; then put a small quantity of finely-groundlinseed-meal into the basin, pour a little hot water on it, and stir itround briskly until you have well incorporated them; add a little moremeal and a little more water; then stir it again. Do not let any lumpsremain in the basin, but stir the poultice well, and do not be sparingof your trouble. What you do next, is to take as much of it out of thebasin as you may require, lay it on a piece of soft linen, and let it beabout a quarter of an inch thick. "--_Abernethy_. 

2597. _Mustard Poultice_. --Mix equal parts of dry mustard andlinseed-meal in warm vinegar. When the poultice is wanted weak, warmwater may be used for the vinegar; and when it is required very strong, mustard alone, without any linseed-meal, is to be mixed with warmvinegar. 

2598. _An ordinary Blister_. --Spread a little blister compound on apiece of common adhesive plaster with the right thumb. It should be puton just thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath. The part from which a blister has been taken should be covered till itheals over with soft linen rags smeared with lard. 

Baths and Fomentations. 

2599. All fluid applications to the body are exhibited either in a hotor cold form; and the object for which they are administered is toproduce a stimulating effect over the entire, or a part, of the system;for the effect, though differently obtained, and varying in degree, isthe same in principle, whether procured by hot or cold water. 

2600. _Heat_. --There are three forms in which heat is universallyapplied to the body, --that of the tepid, warm, and vapour bath; but asthe first is too inert to be worth notice, and the last dangerous andinapplicable, except in public institutions, we shall confine ourremarks to the really efficacious and always attainable one--the

2601. _Warm and Hot Bath_. --These baths are used whenever there iscongestion, or accumulation of blood in the internal organs, causingpain, difficulty of breathing, or stupor, and are employed, by theirstimulating property, to cause a rush of blood to the surface, and, byunloading the great organs, produce a temporary inflammation in theskin, and so equalize the circulation. The effect of the hot bath is toincrease the fulness of the pulse, accelerate respiration, and exciteperspiration. In all inflammations of the stomach and bowels, the hotbath is of the utmost consequence; the temperature of the warm bathvaries from 92° to 100°, and may be obtained by those who have nothermometer to test the exact heat, by mixing one measure of boilingwith two of cold water. 

2602. _Fomentations_ are generally used to effect, in a part, thebenefit produced on the whole body by the bath; to which a sedativeaction is occasionally given by the use of roots, herbs, or otheringredients; the object being to relieve the internal organ, as thethroat, or muscles round a joint, by exciting a greater flow of blood tothe skin _over_ the affected part. As the real agent of relief is heat, the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably be borne, and, to insure effect, should be repeated every half-hour. Warm fluidsare applied in order to render the swelling which accompaniesinflammation less painful, by the greater readiness with which the skinyields, than when it is harsh and dry. They are of various kinds; butthe most simple, and oftentimes the most useful, that can be employed, is "Warm Water. " Another kind of fomentation is composed of driedpoppyheads, 4 oz. Break them to pieces, empty out the seeds, put theminto 4 pints of water, boil for a quarter of an hour, then strainthrough a cloth or sieve, and keep the water for use. Or, chamomileflowers, hemlock, and many other plants, may be boiled, and the partfomented with the hot liquor, by means of flannels wetted with thedecoction. 

2603. _Cold_, when applied in excess to the body, drives the blood fromthe surface to the centre, reduces the pulse, makes the breathing hardand difficult, produces coma, and, if long continued, death. But whenmedicinally used, it excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to astimulating effect; as in some cases of fever, when the body has beensponged with cold water, it excites, by reaction, increased circulationon the skin. Cold is sometimes used to keep up a repellent action, as, when local inflammation takes place, a remedy is applied, which, by itsbenumbing and astringent effect, causes the blood, or the excess of itin the part, to recede, and, by contracting the vessels, prevents thereturn of any undue quantity, till the affected part recovers its tone. Such remedies are called _Lotions_, and should, when used, be appliedwith the same persistency as the fomentation; for, as the latter shouldbe renewed as often as the heat passes off, so the former should beapplied as often as the heat from the skin deprives the application ofits cold. 

2604. _Poultices_ are only another form of fomentation, though chieflyused for abscesses. The ingredient best suited for a poultice is thatwhich retains heat the longest; of these ingredients, the best arelinseed--meal, bran, and bread. Bran sewed into a bag, as it can bereheated, will be found the cleanest and most useful; especially forsore throats. 

How to Bleed. 

2605. In cases of great emergency, such as the strong kind of apoplexy, and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerabletime, the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact ofhis being bled or not. We therefore give instructions how the operationof bleeding is to be performed, but caution the reader only to attemptit in cases of the greatest emergency. Place a handkerchief or piece oftape rather but not too tightly round the arm, about three or fourinches above the elbow. This will cause the veins below to swell andbecome very evident. If this is not sufficient, the hand should beconstantly and quickly opened and shut for the same purpose. There willnow be seen, passing up the middle of the fore-arm, a vein which, justbelow the bend of the elbow, sends a branch inwards and outwards, eachbranch shortly joining another large vein. It is from the _outer_branch--that the person is to be bled. The right arm is the one mostlyoperated on. The operator should take the lancet in his right hand, between the thumb and first finger, place the thumb of his left hand onthe vein below the part where he is going to bleed from, and then gentlythrust the tip of the lancet into the vein, and, taking care not to pushit too deeply, cut in a gently curved direction, thus and bring itout, point upwards, at about half an inch from the part of the vein intowhich he had thrust it. The vein must be cut lengthways, and not across. When sufficient blood has been taken away, remove the bandage from abovethe elbow, and place the thumb of the left hand firmly over the cut, until all the bleeding ceases. A small pad of lint is then to be putover the cut, with a larger pad over it, and the two kept in theirplaces by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty tightlyover them and round the arm. 

2606. When a person is bled, he should always be in the standing, or atany rate in the sitting, position; for if, as is often the case, heshould happen to faint, he can, in, most eases at least, easily bebrought to again by the operator placing him flat on his back, andstopping the bleeding. _This is of the greatest importance. _ It has beenrecommended, for what supposed advantages we don't know, to bleed peoplewhen they are lying down. Should a person, under these circumstances, faint, what could be done to bring him to again? The great treatment oflowering the body of the patient to the flat position cannot be followedhere. It is in that position already, and cannot be placed lower than itat present is--except, as is most likely to be the case, under theground. 

2607. BLEEDING FROM THE NOSE. --Many children, especially those of asanguineous temperament, are subject to sudden discharges of blood fromsome part of the body; and as all such fluxes are in general the resultof an effort of nature to relieve the system from some overload orpressure, such discharges, unless in excess, and when likely to producedebility, should not be rashly or too abruptly checked. In general, these discharges are confined to the summer or spring months of theyear, and follow pains in the head, a sense of drowsiness, languor, oroppression; and, as such symptoms are relieved by the loss of blood, thehemorrhage should, to a certain extent, be encouraged. When, however, the bleeding is excessive, or returns too frequently, it becomesnecessary to apply means to subdue or mitigate the amount. For thispurpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is itselfsufficient, in most cases, to arrest the most active hemorrhage. A wettowel laid suddenly on the back, between the shoulders, and placing thechild in a recumbent posture, is often sufficient to effect the object;where, however, the effusion resists such simple means, napkins wrungout of cold water must be laid across the forehead and nose, the handsdipped in cold water, and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet. If, in spite of these means, the bleeding continues, a little fine wool or afew folds of lint, tied together by a piece of thread, must be pushed upthe nostril from which the blood flows, to act as a plug and pressure onthe bleeding vessel. When the discharge has entirely ceased, the plug isto be pulled out by means of the thread. To prevent a repetition of thehemorrhage, the body should be sponged every morning with cold water, and the child put under a course of steel wine, have open-air exercise, and, if possible, salt-water bathing. For children, a key suddenlydropped down the back between the skin and clothes, will oftenimmediately arrest a copious bleeding. 

2608. SPITTING OF BLOOD, or hemorrhage from the lungs, is generallyknown from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour, andin less quantities than that, which is always grumous and mixed with thehalf-digested food. In either case, rest should be immediately enjoined, total abstinence from stimulants, and a low, poor diet, accompanied withthe horizontal position, and bottles of boiling water to the feet. Atthe same time the patient should suck through a quill, every hour, halfa wine-glass of water in which 10 or 15 drops of the elixir of vitriolhas been mixed, and, till further advice has been procured, keep a towelwrung out of cold water on the chest or stomach, according to the seatof the hemorrhage. 

Bites and Stings. 

2609. BITES AND STINGS may be divided into three kinds:--1. Those ofInsects. 2. Those of Snakes. 3. Those of Dogs and other Animals. 

2610. 1. _The Bites or Stings of Insects_, such as gnats, bees, wasps, &c. , need cause very little alarm, and are, generally speaking, easilycured. They are very serious, however, when they take place on somedelicate part of the body, such as near the eye, or in the throat. _Thetreatment_ is very simple in most cases; and consists in taking out thesting, if it is left behind, with a needle, and applying to the part aliniment made of finely-scraped chalk and olive-oil, mixed together toabout the thickness of cream. 

2611. Bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar isalso of great use. If the person feels faint, he should lie quietly onhis back, and take a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water. When the inside of the throat is the part stung, there is great dangerof violent inflammation taking place. In this case, from eight to twelveleeches should be immediately put to the outside of the throat, and whenthey drop off, the part to which they had been applied should be wellfomented with warm water. The inside of the throat is to be constantlygargled with salt and water. Bits of ice are to be sucked. Rubbing theface and hands well over with plain olive-oil, before going to bed, willoften keep gnats and musquitoes from biting during the night. Strongscent, such as eau-de-Cologne, will have the same effect. 

2612. 2. _Bites of Snakes_. --These are much more dangerous than thepreceding, and require more powerful remedies. The bites of thedifferent kinds of snakes do not all act alike, but affect people indifferent ways. --_Treatment of the part bitten_. The great thing is toprevent the poison getting into the blood; and, if possible, to removethe whole of it at once from the body. A pocket-handkerchief, a piece oftape or cord, or, in fact, of anything that is at hand, should be tiedtightly round the part of the body bitten; if it be the leg or arm, immediately _above_ the bite, and between it and the heart. The biteshould then be sucked several times by any one who is near. There is nodanger in this, provided the person who does it has not got the skintaken off any part of his mouth. What has been sucked into the mouthshould be immediately spit out again. But if those who are near havesufficient nerve for the operation, and a suitable instrument, theyshould cut out the central part bitten, and then bathe the wound forsome time with warm water, to make it bleed freely. The wound shouldafterwards be rubbed with a stick of lunar caustic, or, what is better, a solution of this--60 grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce ofwater--should be dropped into it. The band should be kept on the partduring the whole of the time that these means are being adopted. Thewound should afterwards be covered with lint dipped in cold water. Thebest plan, however, to be adopted, if it can be managed, is thefollowing:--take a common wine-glass, and, holding it upside down, put alighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two. This willtake out the air. Then clap the glass suddenly over the bitten part, andit will become attached, and hold on to the flesh. The glass beingnearly empty, the blood containing the poison will, in consequence, flowinto it from the wound of its own accord. This process should berepeated three or four times, and the wound sucked, or washed with warmwater, before each application of the glass. As a matter of course, whenthe glass is removed, all the blood should be washed out of it before itis applied again. --_Constitutional Treatment_. There is mostly at firstgreat depression of strength in these cases, and it is thereforerequisite to give some stimulant; a glass of hot brandy-and-water, ortwenty drops of sal-volatile, is the best that can be given. When thestrength has returned, and if the patient has not already been sick, alittle mustard in hot water should be given, to make him so. If, on theother hand, as is often the case, the vomiting is excessive, a largemustard poultice should be placed over the stomach, and a grain of solidopium swallowed in the form of a pill, for the purpose of stopping it. Only one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person. Inall cases of bites from snakes, send for a surgeon as quickly aspossible, and act according to the above directions until he arrives. Ifhe is within any reasonable distance, content yourself by putting on theband, sucking the wound, applying the glass, and, if necessary, giving alittle brandy-and-water. 

2613. 3. _Bites of Dogs_. --For obvious reasons, these kinds of bites aremore frequently met with than those of snakes. _The treatment_ is thesame as that for snake-bites, more especially that of the bitten part. The majority of writers on the subject are in favour of keeping thewound open as long as possible. This may be done by putting a few beanson it, and then by applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them. 

Injuries and Accidents to Bones. 

2614. _Dislocation of Bones_. --When the end of a bone is pushed out ofits natural position, it is said to be dislocated. This may be caused byviolence, disease, or natural weakness of the parts about ajoint. --_Symptoms_. Deformity about the joint, with unnatural prominenceat one part, and depression at another. The limb may be shorter orlonger than usual, and is stiff and unable to be moved, differing inthese last two respects from a broken limb, which is mostly shorter, never longer, than usual, and which is always more movable. --_Treatment_. So much practical science and tact are requisite in order to bring adislocated bone into its proper position again, that we strongly advisethe reader never to interfere in these cases; unless, indeed, it isaltogether impossible to obtain the services of a surgeon. But becauseany one of us may very possibly be placed in that emergency, we give afew rough rules for the reader's guidance. In the first place make thejoint, from which the bone has been displaced, perfectly steady, eitherby fixing it to some firm object or else by holding it with the hands;then pull the dislocated bone in a direction towards the place fromwhich it has been thrust, so that, if it moves at all from its unnaturalposition, it may have the best chance of returning to its proper place. Do not, however, pull or press against the parts too violently, as youmay, perhaps, by doing so, rupture blood-vessels, and produce mostserious consequences. When you _do_ attempt to reduce a dislocated bone, do it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place, everyhour making the operation more difficult. When the patient is verystrong, he may be put into a warm bath until he feels faint, or havesixty drops of antimonial wine given him every ten minutes until hefeels sickish. These two means are of great use in relaxing the muscles. If the bone has been brought back again to its proper place, keep itthere by means of bandages; and if there is much pain about the joint, apply a cold lotion to it, and keep it perfectly at rest. The lotionshould be, a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract, and two tablespoonfulsof vinegar, mixed in a pint of water. Leeches are sometimes necessary. Unless the local pain, or general feverish symptoms, are great, thepatient's diet should be the same as usual. Dislocations may be reduceda week, or even a fortnight, after they have taken place. As, therefore, although the sooner a bone is reduced the better, there is no very greatemergency, and as the most serious consequences may follow improper ortoo violent treatment, it is always better for people in these cases todo too little than too much; inasmuch as the good which has not yet maystill be done, whereas the evil that _has_ been done cannot so easily beundone. 

2615. FRACTURES OF BONES. --_Symptoms_. 1. Deformity of the part. 2. Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the two ends of the brokenbone are rubbed together. 4. Loss of natural motion and power. In somecases there is also shortening of the limb. --Fracture takes place fromseveral causes, as a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from theviolent action of muscles. --_Treatment_. In cases where a surgeon cannotbe procured immediately after the accident, the following general rulesare offered for the reader's guidance:--The broken limb should be placedand kept as nearly as possible in its natural position. This is to bedone by first pulling the two portions of the bone in oppositedirections, until the limb becomes as long as the opposite one, and thenby applying a splint, and binding it to the part by means of a roller. When there is no deformity, the pulling is of course unnecessary. Ifthere is much swelling about the broken part, a cold lotion is to beapplied. This lotion (_which we will call Lotion No. 1_) may be thusmade:--Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and twotablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. When the leg or arm isbroken, always, if possible, get it to the same length and form as theopposite limb. The broken part should be kept perfectly quiet. When abroken limb is deformed, and a particular muscle is on the stretch, place the limb in such a position as will relax it. This will in mostcases cure the deformity. Brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, are to be given when the patient is faint. Surgical aid should, ofcourse, be procured as soon as possible. 

2616. JOINTS, INJURIES TO. --All kinds of injuries to joints, of whateverdescription, require particular attention, in consequence of the violentinflammations which are so liable to take place in these parts of thebody, and which do so much mischief in a little time. The joint injuredshould always be kept perfectly at rest; and when it is very painful, and the skin about it red, swollen, hot, and shining, at the same timethat the patient has general feverish symptoms, such as great thirst andheadache--leeches, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations, areto be applied; the No. 1 pills above-mentioned are to be given (two area dose for a grown person) with a black draught three hours afterwards. Give also two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture every four hours, andkeep the patient on low diet. When the injury and swelling are not verygreat, warm applications, with rest, low diet, and a dose of aperientmedicine, will be sufficient. When a joint has received a penetratingwound, it will require the most powerful treatment, and can only beproperly attended to by a surgeon. The patient's friends will have touse their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many othercases, as to when leeches, fever-mixture, &c. , are necessary. Auniversal rule, however, without a single exception, _is always to resta joint well_ after it has been injured in any way whatever, to purgethe patient, and to keep him on low diet, without beer, unless he hasbeen a very great drinker indeed, in which case he may still be allowedto take a little; for if the stimulant that a person has been accustomedto in excess be all taken away at once, he is very likely to have anattack of delirium tremens. The quantity given should not, however, bemuch--say a pint, or, at the most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing thejoint with opodeldoc, or the application of a blister to it, is of greatservice in taking away the thickenings, which often remain after allheat, pain, and redness have left an injured joint. Great care should beobserved in not using a joint too quickly after it has been injured. When the shoulder-joint is the one injured, the arm should be boundtightly to the body by means of a linen or flannel roller, and the elbowraised; when the elbow, it should be kept raised in the straightposition, on a pillow; when the wrist, it should be raised on the chest, and suspended in a sling; when the knee, it should be kept in thestraight position; and, lastly, when the ankle, it should be a littleraised on a pillow. 

2617. BRUISES, LACERATIONS, AND CUTS. --Wherever the bruise may be, orhowever swollen or discoloured the skin may become, two or threeapplications of the _extract of lead_, kept to the part by means oflint, will, in an hour or little more, remove all pain, swelling, andtenderness. Simple or clean cuts only require the edges of the wound tobe placed in their exact situation, drawn close together, and securedthere by one or two slips of adhesive plaster. When the wound, however, is jagged, or the flesh or cuticle lacerated, the parts are to be laidas smooth and regular as possible, and a piece of lint, wetted in the_extract of lead_, laid upon the wound, and a piece of greased lintplaced above it to prevent the dressing sticking; the whole covered overto protect from injury, and the part dressed in the same manner once aday till the cure is effected. 

2618. BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT. --The best application for a bruise, be it large or small, is moist warmth; therefore, a warm bread-and-waterpoultice in hot moist flannels should be put on, as they supple theskin. If the bruise be very severe, and in the neighbourhood of a joint, it will be well to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruisedpart, and afterwards a poultice. But leeches should not be put on youngchildren. If the bruised part be the knee or the ankle, walking shouldnot be attempted till it can be performed without pain. Inattention tothis point often lays the foundation for serious mischief in thesejoints, especially in the case of scrofulous persons. In all conditionsof bruises occurring in children, whether swellings or abrasions, noremedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure extract oflead applied to the part. 

Burns and Scalds. 

2619. BURNS AND SCALDS being essentially the same in all particulars, and differing only in the manner of their production, may be spoken oftogether. As a general rule, scalds are less severe than burns, becausethe heat of water, by which scalds are mostly produced, is not, evenwhen it is boiling, so intense as that of flame; oil, however, and otherliquids, whose boiling-point is high, produce scalds of a very severenature. Burns and scalds have been divided into three classes. The firstclass comprises those where the burn is altogether superficial, andmerely reddens the skin; the second, where the injury is greater, and weget little bladders containing a fluid (called serum) dotted over theaffected part; in the third class we get, in the case of burns, acharring, and in that of scalds, a softening or pulpiness, perhaps acomplete and immediate separation of the part. This may occur at once, or in the course of a little time. The pain from the second kind ofburns is much more severe than that in the other two, although thedanger, as a general rule, is less than it is in the third class. Theseinjuries are much more dangerous when they take place on the trunk thanwhen they happen on the arms or legs. The danger arises more from theextent of surface that is burnt than from the depth to which the burngoes. This rule, of course, has certain exceptions; because a small burnon the chest or belly penetrating deeply is more dangerous than a moreextensive but superficial one on the arm or leg. When a person's clothesare in flames, the best way of extinguishing them is to wind a rug, orsome thick material, tightly round the whole of the body. 

2620. _Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds_. --_Of the partaffected_. --Cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour, orcotton-wool with flour dredged well into it. The great thing is to keepthe affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air. The partwill shortly get well, and the skin may or may not peeloff. --_Constitutional Treatment_. If the burn or scald is not extensive, and there is no prostration of strength, this is very simple, andconsists in simply giving a little aperient medicine--pills (No. 2), asfollows:--Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compoundextract of colocynth, and make into two pills--the dose for a full-grownperson. Three hours after the pills give a black draught. If there aregeneral symptoms of fever, such as hot skin, thirst, headache, &c. &c. , two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to be given every four hours. The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is made thus:-Mix a drachm ofpowdered nitro, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls ofantimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro, in halfa pint of water. 

2621. _Second Class. Local Treatment_. --As the symptoms of these kindsof burns are more severe than those of the first class, so the remediesappropriate to them are more powerful. Having, as carefully as possible, removed the clothes from the burnt surface, and taking care not to breakthe bladders, spread the following liniment (No. 1) on a piece of linenor lint--not the _fluffy_ side--and apply it to the part: the linimentshould be equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil, well mixed. If theburn is on the trunk of the body, it is better to use a warmlinseed-meal poultice. After a few days dress the wound with Turner'scerate. If the burn is at the bend of the elbow, place the arm in the_straight_ position; for if it is _bent_, the skin, when healed, will becontracted, and the arm, in all probability, always remain in the sameun natural position. This, indeed, applies to all parts of the body;therefore, always place the part affected in the most _stretched_position possible. --_Constitutional Treatment_. The same kind oftreatment is to be used as for the first class, only it must be morepowerful. Stimulants are move often necessary, but must be given withgreat caution. If, as is often the case, there is great irritability andrestlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses of from sixty to ahundred drops, according to age, is best) is of great service. Thefeverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever mixture. A drink made of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a littlelemon-juice, in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is a very niceone in these cases. The diet throughout should not be too low, especially if there is much discharge from the wound. After a few daysit is often necessary to give wine, ammonia, and strong beef-tea. Theseshould be had recourse to when the tongue gets dry and dark, and thepulse weak and frequent. If there should be, after the lapse of a weekor two, pain over one particular part of the belly, a blister should beput on it, and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder, and Dover'spowder (two grains of the former and five of the latter) given threetimes a day. Affections of the head and chest also frequently occur as aconsequence of these kinds of burns, but no one who is not a medical mancan treat them. 

2622. _Third Class_. --These are so severe as to make it impossible for anon-professional person to be of much service in attending to them. Whenthey occur, a surgeon should always be sent for. Until he arrives, however, the following treatment should be adopted:--Place the patientfull-length on his back, and keep him warm. Apply fomentations offlannels wrung out of boiling water and sprinkled with spirits ofturpentine to the part, and give wine and sal-volatile in suchquantities as the prostration of strength requires; always bearing inmind the great fact that you have to steer between two quicksands--deathfrom present prostration and death from future excitement, which willalways be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants given. Give, therefore, only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keeplife in the body. 

2623. CONCUSSION OF BRAIN--STUNNING. --This may be caused by a blow or afall. --_Symptoms_. Cold skin; weak pulse; almost total insensibility;slow, weak breathing; pupil of eye sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller, than natural; inability to move; unwillingness to answer when spoken to. These symptoms come on directly after the accident. --_Treatment_. Placethe patient quietly on a warm bed, send for a surgeon, _and do nothingelse for the first four or six hours_. After this time the skin willbecome hot, the pulse full, and the patient feverish altogether. If thesurgeon has not arrived by the time these symptoms have set in, shavethe patient's head, and apply the following lotion (No. 2): Mix half anounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the samequantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water. Then give this pill(No. 1); Mix five grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonialpowder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Give a blackdraught three hours after the pill, and two tablespoonfuls of theabove-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours. Keep on low diet. Leeches are sometimes to be applied to the head. These cases are oftenfollowed by violent inflammation of the brain. They can, therefore, onlybe attended to properly throughout by a surgeon. The great thing forpeople to do in these cases is--nothing; contenting themselves withputting the patient to bed, and waiting the arrival of a surgeon. 

2624. THE CHOLERA AND AUTUMNAL COMPLAINTS. --To oppose cholera, thereseems no surer or better means than cleanliness, sobriety, and judiciousventilation. Where there is dirt, that is the place for cholera; wherewindows and doors are kept most jealously shut, there cholera will findeasiest entrance; and people who indulge in intemperate diet during thehot days of autumn are actually courting death. To repeat it, cleanliness, sobriety, and free ventilation almost always defy thepestilence; but, in case of attack, immediate recourse should be had toa physician. The faculty say that a large number of lives have beenlost, in many seasons, solely from delay in seeking medical assistance. They even assert that, taken early, the cholera is by no means a fataldisorder. The copious use of salt is recommended on very excellentauthority. Other autumnal complaints there are, of which diarrhoea isthe worst example. They come on with pain, flatulence, sickness, with orwithout vomiting, followed by loss of appetite, general lassitude, andweakness. If attended to at the first appearance, they may soon beconquered; for which purpose it is necessary to assist nature inthrowing off the contents of the bowels, which may be one by means ofthe following prescription:--Take of calomel 3 grains, rhubarb 8 grains;mix and take it in a little honey or jelly, and repeat the dose threetimes, at the intervals of four or five hours. The next purpose to beanswered is the defence of the lining membrane of the intestines fromtheir acrid contents, which will be best effected by drinking copiouslyof linseed tea, or of a drink made by pouring boiling water onquince-seeds, which are of a very mucilaginous nature; or, what is stillbetter, full draughts of whey. If the complaint continue after thesemeans have been employed, some astringent or binding medicine will berequired, as the subjoined:--Take of prepared chalk 2 drachms, cinnamon-water 7 oz. , syrup of poppies 1 oz. ; mix, and take 3tablespoonfuls every four hours. Should this fail to complete the cure, 1/2 oz. Of tincture of catechu, or of kino, may be added to it, and thenit will seldom fail; or a teaspoonful of the tincture of kino alone, with a little water, every three hours, till the diarrhoea is checked. While any symptoms of derangement are present, particular attention mustbe paid to the diet, which should be of a soothing, lubricating, andlight nature, as instanced in veal or chicken broth, which shouldcontain but little salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will begenerally relished, and be eaten with advantage; but the stomach is toomuch impaired to digest food of a more solid nature. Indeed, we shouldgive that organ, together with the bowels, as little trouble aspossible, while they are so incapable of acting in their accustomedmanner. Much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd practice oftaking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost certain of aggravating thatspecies of disorder of which we have now treated; for it is a spirit asstrong as brandy, and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface whichis rendered tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile. Butour last advice is, upon the first appearance of such symptoms as areabove detailed, have _immediate_ recourse to a doctor, where possible. 

2625. TO CURE A COLD. --Put a large teacupful of linseed, with 1/4 lb. Ofsun raisins and 2 oz. Of stick liquorice, into 2 quarts of soft water, and let it simmer over a slow fire till reduced to one quart; add to it1/4 lb. Of pounded sugar-candy, a tablespoonful of old rum, and atablespoonful of the best white-wine vinegar, or lemon-juice. The rumand vinegar should be added as the decoction is taken; for, if they areput in at first, the whole soon becomes flat and less efficacious. Thedose is half a pint, made warm, on going to bed; and a little may betaken whenever the cough is troublesome. The worst cold is generallycured by this remedy in two or three days; and, if taken in time, isconsidered infallible. 

2626. COLD ON THE CHEST. --A flannel dipped in boiling water, andsprinkled with turpentine, laid on the chest as quickly as possible, will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness. 

2627. SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE. --To remove fine particles of gravel, lime, &c. , the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them. Be particular not to worry the eye, under the impression that thesubstance is still there, which the enlargement of some of the minutevessels makes the patient believe is actually the case. 

2628. SORE EYES. --Incorporate thoroughly, in a glass mortar or vessel, one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermacetiointment. Use the mixture night and morning, by placing a piece of thesize of a pea in the corner of the eye affected, only to be used incases of chronic or long-standing inflammation of the organ, or itslids. 

2629. LIME IN THE EYE. --Bathe the eye with a little weakvinegar-and-water, and carefully remove any little piece of lime whichmay be seen, with a feather. If any lime has got entangled in theeyelashes, carefully clear it away with a bit of soft linen soaked invinegar-and-water. Violent inflammation is sure to follow; a smart purgemust be therefore administered, and in all probability a blister must beapplied on the temple, behind the ear, or nape of the neck. 

2630. STYE IN THE EYE. --Styes are little abscesses which form betweenthe roots of the eyelashes, and are rarely larger than a small pea. Thebest way to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, orin warm poppy-water, if very painful. When they have burst, use anointment composed of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti, well rubbed together, and smear along the edge of the eyelid. Give agrain or two of calomel with 5 or 8 grains of rhubarb, according to theage of the child, twice a week. The old-fashioned and apparently absurdpractice of rubbing the stye with a ring, is as good and speedy a cureas that by any process of medicinal application; though the number oftimes it is rubbed, or the quality of the ring and direction of thestrokes, has nothing to do with its success. The pressure and thefriction excite the vessels of the part, and cause an absorption of theeffused matter under the eyelash. The edge of the nail will answer aswell as a ring. 

2631. INFLAMMATION OF THE EYELIDS. --The following ointment has beenfound very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of theeyelids:--Take of prepared calomel, 1 scruple; spermaceti ointment, 1/2oz. Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a small quantity toeach corner of the eye every night and morning, and also to the edges ofthe lids, if they are affected. If this should not eventually remove theinflammation, elder-flower water may be applied three or four times aday, by means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept in a laxativestate, by taking occasionally a quarter of an ounce of the Cheltenham orEpsom salts. 

2632. FASTING. --It is said by many able physicians that fasting is ameans of removing incipient disease, and of restoring the body to itscustomary healthy sensations. Howard, the celebrated philanthropist(says a writer), used to fast one day in every week. Napoleon, when hefelt his system unstrung, suspended his wonted repast, and took hisexercise on horseback. 

Fits. 

2633. Fits come on so suddenly, often without even the slightestwarning, and may prove fatal so quickly, that all people should beacquainted at least with their leading symptoms and treatment, as a fewmoments, more or less, will often decide the question between life anddeath. The treatment, in very many cases at least, to be of theslightest use, should be _immediate_, as a person in a fit (of apoplexyfor instance) may die while a surgeon is being fetched from only thenext street. We shall give, as far as the fact of our editing a work fornon-professional readers will permit, the peculiar and distinctivesymptoms of all kind of fits, and the immediate treatment to be adoptedin each case. 

2634. APOPLEXY. --These fits may be divided into two kinds--the _strong_and the _weak_. 

2635. 1. _The strong kind_. --These cases mostly occur in stout, strong, short-necked, bloated-faced people, who are in the habit of livingwell. --_Symptoms_. The patient may or may not have had headache, sparksbefore his eyes, with confusion of ideas and giddiness, for a day or twobefore the attack. When it takes place, he falls down insensible; thebody becomes paralyzed, generally more so on one side than the other;the face and head are hot, and the blood-vessels about them swollen; thepupils of the eyes are larger than natural, and the eyes themselves arefixed; the mouth is mostly drawn down at one corner; the breathing islike loud snoring; the pulse full and hard. --_Treatment_. Place thepatient immediately in bed, with his head well raised; take offeverything that he has round his neck, and bleed freely and at once fromthe arm. If you have not got a lancet, use a penknife or anythingsuitable that may be at hand. Apply warm mustard poultices to the solesof the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs; put two drops ofcastor oil, mixed up with eight grains of calomel, on the top of thetongue, as far back as possible; a most important part of the treatmentbeing to open the bowels as quickly and freely as possible. The patientcannot swallow; but these medicines, especially the oil, will beabsorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntaryaction. If possible, throw up a warm turpentine clyster (twotablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel), or, ifthis cannot be obtained, one composed of about a quart of warmsalt-and-water and soap. Cut off the hair, and apply rags dipped in weakvinegar-and-water, or weak gin-and-water, or even simple cold water, tothe head. If the blood-vessels about the head and neck are much swollen, put from eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite to the paralyzedside of the body. Always send for a surgeon immediately, and actaccording to the above rules, doing more or less, according to the meansat hand, and the length of time that must necessarily elapse until hearrives. A pint, or even a quart of blood in a very strong person, maybe taken away. When the patient is able to swallow, give him the No. 1pills, and the No. 1 mixture directly. [The No. 1 pills are made asfollows:--Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonialpowder with a little bread-crumb: make into two pills, the dose for afull-grown person. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve on ounce of Epsomsalts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as adose] Repeat these remedies if the bowels are not well opened. Keep thepatient's head well raised, and cool as above. Give very low dietindeed: gruel, arrowroot, and the like. When a person is recovering, heshould have blisters applied to the nape of the neck, his bowels shouldbe kept well open, light diet given, and fatigue, worry, and excess ofall kinds avoided. 

2636. 2. _The weak kind_. --_Symptoms_. These attacks are more frequentlypreceded by warning symptoms than the first kind. The face is pale, thepulse weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, cold. After alittle while, these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first classin a mild degree. --_Treatment. _ At first, if the pulse is _very feebleindeed_, a little brandy-and-water or sal-volatile must be given. Mustard poultices are to be put, as before, to the soles of the foot andthe insides of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or bottles filled withwarm water, are also to be placed under the armpits. When the strengthhas returned, the body become warmer, and the pulse fuller and harder, the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it, as beforedescribed. Leeches should be put, as before, to the temple opposite theside paralyzed; and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quicklyas possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases, but a non-professional person should never have recourse to it. Blistersmay be applied to the nape of the neck at once. The diet in those casesshould not be so low as in the former--indeed, it is often necessary, ina day or so after one of these attacks, to give wine, strong beef-tea, &c. , according to the condition of the patient's strength. 

2637. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy_. --1. Apoplexy mostlyhappens in people over _thirty_, whereas epilepsy generally occurs underthat ago; at any rate for the first time. A person who has epilepticfits over thirty, has generally suffered from them for some years. 2. Again, _in apoplexy_, the body is paralyzed; and, therefore, has not_the convulsions which take place in epilepsy_. 3. The peculiar_snoring_ will also distinguish apoplexy from epilepsy. 

2638. _Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkeness_. --1. The knownhabits of the person. 2. The fact of a person who was perfectly soberand sensible a little time before, being found in a state ofinsensibility. 3. The absence, in apoplexy, of the _smell of drink_ onapplying the nose to the mouth. 4. A person in a fit of apoplexy cannotbe roused at all; in drunkenness he mostly can, to a certain extent. 

2639. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysteria_. --Hysterics mostlyhappen in young, nervous, unmarried women; and are attended withconvulsions, sobbing, laughter, throwing about of the body, &c. &c. 

2640. _Distinction between Apoplexy and Poisoning by Opium_. --It isexceedingly difficult to distinguish between these two cases. Inpoisoning by opium, however, we find the particular smell of the drug inthe patient's breath. We should also, in forming our opinion, take intoconsideration the person's previous conduct--whether he has been low anddesponding for some time before, or has ever talked about committingsuicide. 

2641. EPILEPSY. --_Falling Sickness_. --Those fits mostly happen, at anyrate for the first time, to young people, and are more common in boysthan girls. They are produced by numerous causes. --_Symptoms_. The fitmay be preceded by pains in the head, palpitations, &c. &c. ; but itmostly happens that the person falls down insensible suddenly, andwithout any warning whatever. The eyes are distorted, so that only theirwhites can be seen; there is mostly foaming from the mouth; the fingersare clinched; and the body, especially on one side, is much agitated;the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth. When the fit goes off, thepatient feels drowsy and faint, and often sleeps soundly for sometime. --_Treatment_. During the fit, keep the patient flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, and prevent him from doing any harm tohimself; dash cold water into his face, and apply smelling-salts to hisnose; loosen his shirt collar, &c. ; hold a piece of wood about as thickas a finger--the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do aswell--between the two rows of teeth, at the back part of the mouth. Thiswill prevent the tongue from being injured. A teaspoonful of common saltthrust into the patient's mouth, during the fit, is of much service. Theafter-treatment of these fits is various, and depends entirely upontheir causes. A good general rule, however, is always to keep the bowelswell open, and the patient quiet, and free from fatigue, worry, andexcess of all kinds. 

2642. _Fainting Fits_ are sometimes very dangerous, and at othersperfectly harmless; the question of danger depending altogether upon thecauses which have produced them, and which are exceedingly various. Forinstance, fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serioussymptom indeed; whereas, that arising from some slight cause, such asthe sight of blood, &c. , need cause no alarm whatever. The symptoms ofsimple fainting are so well known that it would be quite superfluous toenumerate them here. The _treatment_ consists in laying the patient atfull length upon his back, with his head upon a level with the rest ofhis body, loosening everything about the neck, dashing cold water intothe face, and sprinkling vinegar and water about the mouth; applyingsmelling-salts to the nose; and, when the patient is able to swallow, ingiving a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of sal-volatilein water. 

2643. _Hysterics_. --These fits take place, for the most part, in young, nervous, unmarried women. They happen much less often in married women;and even (in some rare cases indeed) in men. Young women, who aresubject to these fits, are apt to think that they are suffering from"all the ills that flesh is heir to;" and the false symptoms of diseasewhich they show are so like the true ones, that it is often exceedinglydifficult to detect the difference. The fits themselves are mostlypreceded by great depression of spirits, shedding of tears, sickness, palpitation of the heart, &c. A pain, as if a nail were being driven in, is also often felt at one particular part of the head. In almost allcases, when a fit is coming on, pain is felt on the left side. This painrises gradually until it reaches the throat, and then gives the patienta sensation as if she had a pellet there, which prevents her frombreathing properly, and, in fact, seems to threaten actual suffocation. The patient now generally becomes insensible, and faints; the body isthrown about in all directions, froth issues from the mouth, incoherentexpressions are uttered, and fits of laughter, crying, or screaming, take place. When the fit is going off, the patient mostly criesbitterly, sometimes knowing all, and at others nothing, of what hastaken place, and feeling general soreness all over the body. _Treatmentduring the fit_. Place the body in the same position as for simplefainting, and treat, in other respects, as directed in the article onEpilepsy. _Always well loosen the patient's stays_; and, when she isrecovering, and able to swallow, give 20 drops of sal volatile in alittle water. The _after-treatment_ of these cases is very various. Ifthe patient is of a strong constitution, she should live on plain diet, take plenty of exercise, and take occasional doses of castor oil, or anaperient mixture, such as that described as "No. 1, " in previousnumbers. If, as is mostly the case, the patient is weak and delicate, she will require a different mode of treatment altogether. Goodnourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No. 3 myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pillstwice a day. [As to the myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains madeinto two pills are a dose for a full-grown person. Of the compound ironpills (No. 4), the dose for a full grown person is also 10 grains, madeinto two pills. ] In every case, amusing the mind, and avoiding allcauses of over-excitement, are of great service in bringing about apermanent cure. 

2644. LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS. --A very obliging correspondentrecommends the following, from personal experience:--Take 4 oz. Of drieddandelion root, 1 oz. Of the best ginger, 1/4 oz. Of Columba root;braise and boil all together in 3 pints of water till it is reduced to aquart: strain, and take a wine-glassful every four hours. Ourcorrespondent says it is a "safe and simple medicine for both livercomplaint and spasms. "

2645. LUMBAGO. --A "new and successful mode" of treating lumbago, advocated by Dr. Day, is a form of counter-irritation, said to have beenintroduced into this country by the late Sir Anthony Carlisle, and whichconsists in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button, gentlyheated in a spirit-lamp, to the skin. Dr. Corrigan published, aboutthree years ago, an account of some cases very successfully treated bynearly similar means. Dr. Corrigan's plan was, however, to touch thesurface of the part affected, at intervals of half an inch, as lightlyand rapidly as possible. Dr. Day has found greater advantages to resultfrom drawing the flat surface of the heated button lightly over theaffected part, so as to act on a greater extent of surface. The doctorspeaks so enthusiastically of the benefit to be derived from thispractice, that it is evidently highly deserving attention. 

2646. PALPITATION OF THE HEART. --Where palpitation occurs as symptomaticof indigestion, the treatment must be directed to remedy that disorder;when it is consequent on a plethoric state, purgatives will beeffectual. In this case the patient should abstain from every kind ofdiet likely to produce a plethoric condition of body. Animal food andfermented liquor must be particularly avoided. Too much indulgence insleep will also prove injurious. When the attacks arise from nervousirritability, the excitement must be allayed by change of air and atonic diet. Should the palpitation originate from organic derangement, it must be, of course, beyond domestic management. Luxurious living, indolence, and tight-lacing often produce this affection: such cases areto be conquered with a little resolution. 

2647. Poisons shall be the next subject for remark; and we anticipatemore detailed instructions for the treatment of persons poisoned, bygiving a simple LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL POISONS, with their ANTIDOTES ORREMEDIES. 

 Oil of Vitriol . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. \ Aquafortis . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water. Spirit of Salt . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. /

 Emetic Tartar. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Oily Drinks, Solution of Oak-bark. 

 Salt of Lemons, or. .. .. .. .. .. . Chalk, Whiting, Lime or Magnesia and Acid of Sugar. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Water. Sometimes an Emetic Draught. 

 Pump on back, Smelling-Salts to nose, Prussic Acid. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Artificial Breathing, Chloride of Lime to nose. 

 Pearlash . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . \ Soap-Lees. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . \ Smelling-Salts. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. \ Nitre. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Lemon-Juice and Vinegar-and-Water Hartshorn. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . / Sal-Volatile. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. /

 Arsenic. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . \ Fly-Powder, or. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Emetics, Lime-Water, Soap-and-Water, White Arsenic. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Sugar and Water, Oily Drinks. Kings Yellow, or. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. / Yellow Arsenic. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. /

 Mercury. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . \ Corrosive Sublimate. .. .. .. .. .. . Whites of Eggs, Soap-and-Water. Calomel. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . /

 Opium. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Emetic Draught, Vinegar-and-Water, Laudanum. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Dashing Cold Water on chest and face, walking up and down two or three hours. 

 Lead. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. \ White Lead. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics. Sugar of Lead. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . / Goulard's Extract. .. .. .. .. .. .. /

 Copper Blue-stone . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Whites of Eggs, Sugar-and-Water, Verdigris. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Castor Oil, Gruel. 

 Zinc . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water, Soap-and-Water. 

 Iron . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Magnesia, Warm Water. 

 Henbane. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . \ Hemlock. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . Emetics and Castor Oil; Nightshade. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Brandy-and-Water, if necessary. Foxglove. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. /

 Poisonous Food. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Emetics and Castor Oil. 

2648. The symptoms of poisoning may be known for the most part fromthose of some diseases, which they are very like, from the fact of theircoming on _immediately_ after eating or drinking something; whereasthose of disease come on, in most cases at least, by degrees, and withwarnings. In most cases where poison is known, or suspected, to havebeen taken, the first thing to be done is to empty the stomach, well andimmediately, by means of mustard mixed in warm water, or plain warmsalt-and-water, or, better, this draught, which we call No. 1:--Twentygrains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. This draughtto be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not ensue. Theback part of the throat should be well tickled with a feather, or two ofthe fingers thrust down it, to induce vomiting. The cases where vomitingmust not be used are those where the skin has been taken off, and theparts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken, and where theaction of vomiting would increase the evil. Full instructions are givenin the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or arenot to be given. The best and safest way of emptying the stomach is bymeans of the stomach-pump, as in certain cases the action of vomiting islikely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congestedcondition of the blood-vessels of the head, which often takes place. Inthe hands, however, of any one else than a surgeon, it would be not onlyuseless, but harmful, as a great deal of dexterity, caution, andexperience are required to use it properly. After having made thesebrief introductory remarks, we shall now proceed to particulars. 

2649. _Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol_ (a clear, colourless liquid, of an oily appearance). --_Symptoms in those who have swallowed it_. Whenmuch is taken, these come on immediately. There is great burning pain, extending from the mouth to the stomach; vomiting of a liquid of a darkcoffee-colour, often mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood;the skin inside the mouth is taken off; and the exposed surface is atfirst white, and after a time becomes brownish. There are sometimesspots of a brown colour round the lips and on the neck, caused by dropsof the acid falling on these parts. There is great difficulty ofbreathing, owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth. After atime there is much depression of strength, with a quick, weak pulse, andcold, clammy skin. The face is pale, and has a very anxious look. Whenthe acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water, the same kind ofsymptoms occur, only in a milder degree. --_Treatment_. Give a mixture ofmagnesia in milk-and-water, or, if this cannot be obtained, of finelypowdered chalk, or whiting, or even of the plaster torn down from thewalls or ceiling, in milk-and-water. The mixture should be nearly asthick as cream, and plenty of it given. As well as this, simple gruel, milk, or thick flour-and-water, are very useful, and should be given inlarge quantities. Violent inflammation of the parts touched by the acidis most likely to take place in the coarse of a little time, and canonly be properly attended to by a surgeon; but if one cannot beobtained, leeches, the fever-mixtures (the recipe for which appearsrepeatedly in previous paragraphs), thick drinks, such as barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, &c. , must be had recourse to, according to thesymptoms of each particular case and the means at hand. The inflamedcondition of the back part of the mouth requires particular attention. When the breathing is very laboured and difficult in consequence, fromfifteen to twenty leeches are to be immediately applied to the outsideof the throat, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentationsconstantly kept to the part. When the pain over the stomach is verygreat, the same local treatment is necessary; but if it is only slight, a good mustard poultice will be sufficient without the leeches. In allthese cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture should be givenevery four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten forsome days. 

2650. _Nitric Acid_, commonly known as _Aqua Fortis_, or _Red Spirit ofNitre_ (a straw-coloured fluid, of the consistence of water, and whichgives off dense white fumes on exposure to the air). --_Symptoms producedin those who have swallowed it. _ Much the same as in the case ofsulphuric acid. In this case, however, the surface touched by the acidbecomes _yellowish_. The tongue is mostly much swollen. --_Treatment_. The same as for sulphuric acid. 

2651. _Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt_ (a thin yellow fluid, emittingdense white fumes on exposure to the air). --This is not often taken as apoison. The _symptoms_ and _treatment_ are much the same as those of_nitric acid_. 

N. B. --_In no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics everbe given_. 

2652. _Oxalic Acid_, commonly called _Salt of Lemons_. --This poison maybe taken by mistake for Epsom salts, which it is a good deal like. Itmay be distinguished from them by its very acid taste and its shape, which is that of needle-formed crystals, each of which, if put into adrop of ink, will turn it to a reddish brown, whereas Epsom salts willnot change its colour at all. When a large dose of this poison has beentaken, death takes place very quickly indeed. --_Symptoms produced inthose who have swallowed it_. A hot, burning, acid taste is felt in theact of swallowing, and vomiting of a _greenish-brown_ fluid is produced, sooner or later, according to the quantity and strength of the poisontaken. There is great tenderness felt over the stomach, followed byclammy perspirations and convulsions; the legs are often drawn up, andthere is generally stupor, from which the patient, however, can easilybe roused, and always great prostration of strength. The pulse is smalland weak, and the breathing faint. --_Treatment_. Chalk or magnesia, madeinto a cream with water, should be given in large quantities, andafterwards the emetic draught above prescribed, or somemustard-and-water, if the draught cannot be got. The back part of thethroat to be tickled with a feather, to induce vomiting. Arrowroot, gruel, and the like drinks, are to be taken. When the prostration ofstrength is very great and the body cold, warmth is to be applied to it, and a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, given. 

2653. _Prussic Acid_ (a thin, transparent, and colourless liquid, with apeculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds). --_Symptomsproduced in those who have swallowed it_. These come on _immediately_after the poison has been taken, and may be produced by merely _smelling_it. The patient becomes perfectly insensible, and falls down inconvulsions--his eyes are fixed and staring, the pupils being biggerthan natural, the skin is cold and clammy, the pulse scarcely perceptible, and the breathing slow and gasping. --_Treatment_. Very little can be donein these cases, as death takes place so quickly after the poison hasbeen swallowed, when it takes place at all. The best treatment--whichshould always be adopted in all cases, even though the patient appearsquite dead-is to dash quantities of cold water on the back, from the topof the neck downwards. Placing the patient under a pump, and pumping onhim, is the best way of doing this. Smelling-salts are also to be appliedto the nose, and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment. 

2654. ALKALIS: _Potash, Soda_, and _Ammonia_, or common_Smelling-Salts_, with their principal preparations--_Pearlash, SoapLees, Liquor Potassae, Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn_, and_Sal--Volatile. _--Alkalis are seldom taken or given with the view ofdestroying life. They may, however, be swallowed by mistake. --_Symptomsproduced in those who have swallowed them_. There is at first a burning, acrid taste in, and a sensation of tightness round, the throat, likethat of strangling; the skin touched is destroyed; retching mostlyfollowed by actual vomiting, then sets in; the vomited matters oftencontaining blood of a dark brown colour, with little shreds of fleshhere and there, and always changing vegetable blue colours green. Thereis now great tenderness over the whole of the belly. After a littlewhile, great weakness, with cold, clammy sweats, a quick weak pulse, andpurging of bloody matters, takes place. The brain, too, mostly becomesaffected. --_Treatment_. Give two tablespoonfuls of vinegar orlemon-juice in a glassful of water every few minutes until the burningsensation is relieved. Any kind of oil or milk may also be given, andwill form soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach. Barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, linseed-tea, &c. , are also very useful, and should betaken constantly, and in large quantities. If inflammation should takeplace, it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppyfomentations to the part where the pain is most felt, and giving twotablespoonfuls of the fever mixture every four hours. The diet in allthese cases should only consist of arrowroot or gruel for the first fewdays, and then of weak broth or beef-tea for some time after. 

2655. When very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way beeninhaled, there is great difficulty of breathing, and alarming pain inthe mouth and nostrils. In this case let the patient inhale the steam ofwarm vinegar, and treat the feverish symptoms as before. 

2656. _Arsenic_. --Mostly seen under the form of white arsenic, orfly-powder, and yellow arsenic, or king's yellow. --_Symptoms produced inthose who have swallowed it_. These vary very much, according to theform and dose in which the poison has been taken. There is faintness, depression, and sickness, with an intense burning pain in the region ofthe stomach, which gets worse and worse, and is increased by pressure. There is also vomiting of dark brown matter, sometimes mixed with blood;and mostly great thirst, with a feeling of tightness round, and ofburning in, the throat. Purging also takes place, the matters broughtaway being mixed with blood. The pulse is small and irregular, and theskin sometimes cold and clammy, and at others hot. The breathing ispainful. Convulsions and spasms often occur. --_Treatment_. Give a coupleof teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water, to bring on or assistvomiting, and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for thepurpose. A solution, half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil, wellmixed, may be given, as well as plenty of arrowroot, gruel, orlinseed-tea. Simple milk is also useful. A little castor-oil should begiven, to cleanse the intestines of all the poison, and theafter-symptoms treated on general principles. 

2657. _Corrosive Sublimate_. --Mostly seen in the form of little heavycrystalline masses, which melt in water, and have a metallic taste. Itis sometimes seen in powder. This is a most powerful poison. --_Symptoms_. These mostly come on immediately after the poison has been taken. Thereis a coppery taste experienced in the act of swallowing, with a burningheat, extending from the top of the throat down to the stomach; and alsoa feeling of great tightness round the throat. In a few minutes greatpain is felt over the region of the stomach, and frequent vomiting oflong, stringy white masses, mixed with blood, takes place. There isalso mostly great purging. The countenance is generally pale andanxious; the pulse always small and frequent; the skin cold and clammy, and the breathing difficult. Convulsions and insensibility often occur, and are very bad symptoms indeed. The inside of the mouth is more orless swollen. --_Treatment_. Mix the whites of a dozen eggs in two pintsof cold water, and give a glassful of the mixture every three or fourminutes, until the stomach can contain no more. If vomiting does not nowcome on naturally, and supposing the mouth is not very sore or muchswollen, an emetic draught, No. 1, may be given, and vomiting induced. (The No. 1 draught, we remind our readers, is thus made:--Twenty grainsof sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water; the draught to berepeated if vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour. ) Afterthe stomach has been well cleaned out, milk, flour-and-water, linseed-tea, or barley-water, should be taken in large quantities. If eggs cannot beobtained, milk, or flour-and-water, should be given as a substitute forthem at once. When the depression of strength is very great indeed, alittle warm brandy-and-water must be given. In the course of an hour ortwo the patient should take two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and ifinflammation comes on, it is to be treated as directed in the article onacids and alkalis. The diet should also be the same. If the patientrecovers, great soreness of the gums is almost certain to take place. Thesimplest, and at the same time one of the best modes of treatment, is towash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-water. 

2658. _Calomel_. --A heavy white powder, without taste, and insoluble inwater. It has been occasionally known to destroy life. --_Symptoms_. Muchthe same as in the case of corrosive sublimate. --_Treatment_. The sameas for corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, wash them, asrecommended in the case of corrosive sublimate, with brandy-and-waterthree or four times a day, and keep the patient on _fluids_, such asarrowroot, gruel, broth, or beef-tea, according to the other symptoms. Eating hard substances would make the gums more sore and tender. 

2659. _Copper_. --The preparations of this metal which are most likely tobe the ones producing poisonous symptoms, are _blue-stone_ and_verdigris_. People are often taken ill after eating food that has beencooked in copper saucepans. When anything has been cooked in one ofthese vessels, _it should never be allowed to cool in it_. --_Symptoms_. Headache, pain in the stomach, and purging; vomiting of green or bluematters, convulsions, and spasms. --_Treatment_. Give whites of eggs, sugar-and-water, castor-oil, and drinks, such as arrowroot and gruel. 

2660. _Emetic Tartar_. --Seen in the form of a white powder, or crystals, with a slightly metallic taste. It has not often been known to destroylife. --_Symptoms_. A strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing, followed by a burning pain in the region of the stomach, vomiting, andgreat purging. The pulse is small and rapid, the skin cold and clammy, the breathing difficult and painful, and the limbs often much cramped. There is also great prostration of strength. --_Treatment_. Promote thevomiting by giving plenty of warm water, or warm arrowroot and water. Strong tea, in large quantities, should be drunk; or, if it can beobtained, a decoction of oak bark. The after-treatment is the same asthat for acids and alkalis; the principal object in all these casesbeing to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the poisonby means of leeches, warm poppy fomentations, fever-mixtures, and verylow diet. 

2661. _Lead_, and its preparations, _Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract, White Lead. _--Lead is by no means an active poison, although it ispopularly considered to be so. It mostly affects people by being takeninto the system slowly, as in the case of painters and glaziers. Anewly-painted house, too, often affects those living in it. --_Symptomsproduced when taken in a large dose_. There is at first a burning, pricking sensation in the throat, to which thirst, giddiness, andvomiting follow. The belly is tight, swollen, and painful; _the painbeing relieved by pressure_. The bowels are mostly bound. There is greatdepression of strength, and a cold skin. --Treatment. Give an emeticdraught (No. 1, see above) at once, and shortly afterwards a solution ofEpsom salts in large quantities. A little brandy-and-water must be takenif the depression of strength is very great indeed. Milk, whites ofeggs, and arrowroot are also useful. After two or three hours, cleansethe stomach and intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls ofcastor-oil, and treat the symptoms which follow according to the ruleslaid down in other parts of these articles. --_Symptoms when it is takeninto the body slowly_. Headache, pain about the navel, loss of appetiteand flesh, offensive breath, a blueness of the edges of the gums; thebelly is tight, hard, and knotty, and the pulse slow and languid. Thereis also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing. --_Treatment_. Give fivegrains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly, in the form of apill, and half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, and repeat thistreatment until the bowels are well opened. Put the patient into a warmbath, and throw up a clyster of warmish water when he is in it. Fomentations of warm oil of turpentine, if they can be obtained, shouldbe put over the whole of the belly. The great object is to open thebowels as freely and as quickly as possible. When this has been done, agrain of pure opium may be given. Arrowroot or gruel should be taken ingood large quantities. The after-treatment must depend altogether uponthe symptoms of each particular case. 

2662. _Opium_, and its preparations, _Laudanum, &c_. --Solid opium ismostly seen in the form of rich brown flattish cakes, with little piecesof leaves sticking on them here and there, and a bitter and slightlywarm taste. The most common form in which it is taken as a poison, isthat of laudanum. --_Symptoms_. These consist at first in giddiness andstupor, followed by insensibility, the patient, however, being roused toconsciousness by a great noise, so as to be able to answer a question, but becoming insensible again almost immediately. The pulse is now quickand small, the breathing hurried, and the skin warm and covered withperspiration. After a little time, these symptoms change; the personbecomes _perfectly insensible_, the breathing slow and _snoring_, as inapoplexy, the skin cold, and the pulse slow and full. The pupil of theeye is mostly smaller than natural. On applying his nose to the patient'smouth, a person may smell the poison very distinctly. --_Treatment_. Give an emetic draught (No. 1, see above) directly, with large quantitiesof warm mustard-and-water, warm salt-and-water, or simple warm water. Tickle the top of the throat with a feather, or put two fingers down itto bring on vomiting, which rarely takes place of itself. Dash cold wateron the head, chest, and spine, and flap these parts well with the ends ofwet towels. Give strong coffee or tea. Walk the patient up and down inthe open air for two or three hours; the great thing being to keep himfrom sleeping. Electricity is of much service. When the patient isrecovering, mustard poultices should be applied to the soles of the feetand the insides of the thighs and legs. The head should be kept cool andraised. 

2663. The following preparations, which are constantly given to childrenby their nurses and mothers, for the purpose of making them sleep, oftenprove fatal:--_Syrup of Poppies_, and _Godfrey's Cordial_. The authorwould most earnestly urge all people caring for their children's lives, never to allow any of these preparations to be given, unless ordered bya surgeon. 

2664. The treatment in the case of poisoning by _Henbane_, _Hemlock_, _Nightshade_, and _Foxglove_, is much the same as that for opium. Vomiting should be brought on in all of them. 

2665. _Poisonous Food_. --It sometimes happens that things which are indaily use, and mostly perfectly harmless, give rise, under certainunknown circumstances, and in certain individuals, to the symptoms ofpoisoning. The most common articles of food of this description are_Mussels_, _Salmon_, and certain kinds of _Cheese_ and _Bacon_. Thegeneral symptoms are thirst, weight about the stomach, difficulty ofbreathing, vomiting, purging, spasms, prostration of strength, and, inthe case of mussels more particularly, an eruption on the body, likethat of nettle-rash. --_Treatment_. Empty the stomach well with No. 1draught and warm water, and give two tablespoonfuls of castor-oilimmediately after. Let the patient take plenty of arrowroot, gruel, andthe like drinks, and if there is much depression of strength, give alittle warm brandy-and-water. Should symptoms of fever or inflammationfollow, they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kindsof poisoning. 

2666. _Mushrooms_, and similar kinds of vegetables, often producepoisonous effects. The symptoms are various, sometimes giddiness andstupor, and at others pain in and swelling of the belly, with vomitingand purging, being the leading ones. When the symptoms come on quicklyafter taking the poison, it is generally the head that is affected. --Thetreatment consists in bringing on vomiting in the usual manner, asquickly and as freely as possible. The other symptoms are to be treatedon general principles; if they are those of depression, bybrandy-and-water or sal-volatile; if those of inflammation, by leeches, fomentations, fever-mixtures, &c. &c. 

2667. FOR CURE OF RINGWORM. --Take of subcarbonate of soda 1 drachm, which dissolve in 1/2 pint of vinegar. Wash the head every morning withsoft soap, and apply the lotion night and morning. One teaspoonful ofsulphur and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning. The hair should be cut close, and round the spot it should be shavedoff, and the part, night and morning, bathed with a lotion made bydissolving a drachm of white vitriol in 8 oz. Of water. A small piece ofeither of the two subjoined ointments rubbed into the part when thelotion has dried in. No, 1. --Take of citron ointment 1 drachm; sulphurand tar ointment, of each 1/2 oz. : mix thoroughly, and apply twice aday. No. 2. --Take of simple cerate 1 oz. ; creosote 1 drachm; calomel 30grains: mix and use in the same manner as the first. Concurrent withthese external remedies, the child should take an alterative powderevery morning, or, if they act too much on the bowels, only every secondday. The following will be found to answer all the intentions desired. 

2668. Alterative Powders for Ringworm. --Take of

 Sulphuret of antimony, precipitated . 24 grains. Grey powder . . . . . 12 grains. Calomel . . . . . . 6 grains. Jalap powder . . . . . 36 grains. 

Mix carefully, and divide into 12 powders for a child from 1 to 2 yearsold; into 9 powders for a child from 2 to 4 years; and into 6 powdersfor a child from 4 to 6 years. Where the patient is older, the strengthmay be increased by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered, or bygiving one and a half or two powders for one dose. The ointment is to bewell washed off every morning with soap-and-water, and the part bathedwith the lotion before re-applying the ointment. An imperative fact mustbe remembered by mother or nurse, --never to use the same comb employedfor the child with ringworm, for the healthy children, or let theaffected little one sleep with those free from the disease; and, forfear of any contact by hands or otherwise, to keep the child's headenveloped in a nightcap, till this eruption is completely cured. 

2669. SCRATCHES. --Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never tobe neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean anddry until they have completely healed. If there is the least appearanceof inflammation, no time should be lost in applying a largebread-and-water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly applied, or evenleeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other. 

2670. FOR SHORTNESS OF BREATH, OR DIFFICULT BREATHING. --Vitriolatedspirits of ether 1 oz. , camphor 12 grains: make a solution, of whichtake a teaspoonful during the paroxysm. This is found to affordinstantaneous relief in difficulty of breathing, depending on internaldiseases and other causes, where the patient, from a very quick andlaborious breathing, is obliged to be in an erect posture. 

2671. SPRAINS. --A sprain is a stretching of the leaders or ligaments ofa part through some violence, such as slipping, falling on the hands, pulling a limb, &c. &c. The most common are those of the ankle andwrist. These accidents are more serious than people generally suppose, and often more difficult to cure than a broken log or arm. The firstthing to be done is to place the sprained part in the straight position, and to raise it a little as well. Some recommend the application of coldlotions at first. The editress, however, is quite convinced that warmapplications are, in most cases, the best for for the first three orfour days. These fomentations are to be applied in the followingmanner:--Dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full ofhot water or hot poppy fomentation, --six poppy heads boiled in one quartof water for about a quarter of an hour; wring it almost dry, and applyit, as hot as the patient can bear, right round the sprained part. Thenplace another piece of flannel, quite dry, over it, in order that thesteam and warmth may not escape. This process should be repeated asoften as the patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is gettingcold--the oftener the better. The bowels should be opened with a blackdraught, and the patient kept on low diet. If he has been a greatdrinker, he may be allowed to take a little beer; but it is better notto do so. A little of the cream of tartar drink, ordered in the case ofburns, may be taken occasionally if there is much thirst. When theswelling and tenderness about the joint are very great, from eight totwelve leeches may be applied. When the knee is the joint affected, thegreatest pain is felt at the inside, and therefore the greater quantityof the leeches should be applied to that part. When the shoulder issprained, the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linenroller, which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of thechest. It should also be brought two or three times underneath theelbow, in order to raise the shoulder. This is the best treatment forthese accidents during the first three or four days. After that time, supposing that no unfavourable symptoms have taken place, a cold lotion, composed of a tablespoonful of sal-ammoniac to a quart of water, orvinegar-and-water, should be constantly applied. This lotion willstrengthen the part, and also help in taking away any thickening thatmay have formed about the joint. In the course of two or three weeks, according to circumstances, the joint is to be rubbed twice a day withflannel dipped in opodeldoc, a flannel bandage rolled tightly round thejoint, the pressure being greatest at the lowest part, and the patientallowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick. Heshould also occasionally, when sitting or lying down, quietly bend thejoint backwards and forwards, to cause its natural motion to return, andto prevent stiffness from taking place. When the swelling is very greatimmediately after the accident has occurred, from the breaking of theblood-vessels, it is best to apply cold applications at first. If it canbe procured, oil-silk may be put over the warm-fomentation flannel, instead of the dry piece of flannel. Old flannel is better than new. 

2672. CURE FOR STAMMERING. --Where there is no malformation of the organsof articulation, stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with theteeth closed. This should be practised for two hours a day, for three orfour months. The advocate of this simple remedy says, "I can speak withcertainty of its utility. "

2673. STAMMERING. --At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of NaturalHistory, Dr. Warren stated, "A simple, easy, and effectual cure ofstammering. " It is, simply, at every syllable pronounced, to tap at thesame time with the finger; by so doing, "the most inveterate stammererwill be surprised to find that he can pronounce quite fluently, and, bylong and constant practice, he will pronounce perfectly well. "

2674. SUFFOCATION, APPARENT. --Suffocation may arise from many differentcauses. Anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs willproduce it. We shall give the principal causes, and the treatment to befollowed in each case. 

2675. 1. _Carbonic Acid Gas. Choke-Damp of Mines_. --This poisonous gasis met with in rooms where charcoal is burnt, and where there is notsufficient draught to allow it to escape; in coalpits, near limekilns, in breweries, and in rooms and houses where a great many people livehuddled together in wretchedness and filth, and where the air inconsequence becomes poisoned. This gas gives out no smell, so that wecannot know of its presence. A candle will not burn in a room whichcontains much of it. --_Effects_. At first there is giddiness, and agreat wish to sleep; after a little time, or where there is much of itpresent, a person feels great weight in the head, and stupid; gets bydegrees quite unable to move, and snores as if in a deep sleep. Thelimbs may or may not be stiff. The heat of the body remains much thesame at first. --_Treatment_. Remove the person affected into the openair, and, even though it is cold weather, take off his clothes. Then layhim on his back, with his head slightly raised. Having done this, dashvinegar-and-water over the whole of the body, and rub it hard, especially the face and chest, with towels dipped in the same mixture. The hands and feet also should be rubbed with a hard brush. Applysmelling-salts to the nose, which may be tickled with a feather. Dashingcold water down the middle of the back is of great service. If theperson can swallow, give him a little lemon-water, or vinegar-and-waterto drink. The principal means, however, to be employed in this, as, infact, in most cases of apparent suffocation, is what is called_artificial breathing_. This operation should be performed by threepersons, and in the following manner:--The first person should put thenozzle of a common pair of bellows into one of the patient's nostrils;the second should push down, and then thrust back, that part of thethroat called "Adam's apple;" and the third should first raise and thendepress the chest, one hand being placed over each side of the ribs. These three actions should be performed in the following order:--Firstof all, the throat should be drawn down and thrust back; then the chestshould be raised, and the bellows gently blown into the nostril. Directly this is done, the chest should be depressed, so as to imitatecommon breathing. This process should be repeated about eighteen times aminute. The mouth and the other nostril should be closed while thebellows are being blown. Persevere, if necessary, with this treatmentfor seven or eight hours--in fact, till absolute signs of death arevisible. Many lives are lost by giving it up too quickly. When thepatient becomes roused, he is to be put into a warm bed, and a littlebrandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, given cautiously nowand then. This treatment is to be adopted in all cases where people areaffected from breathing bad air, smells, &c. &c. 

2676. 2. _Drowning_. --This is one of the most frequent causes of deathby suffocation. --Treatment. Many methods have been adopted, and as someof them are not only useless, but hurtful, we will mention them here, merely in order that they may be avoided. In the first place, then, never hang a person up by his heels, as it is an error to suppose thatwater gets into the lungs. Hanging a person up by his heels would bequite as bad as hanging him up by his neck. It is also a mistake tosuppose that rubbing the body with salt and water is ofservice. --_Proper Treatment_. Directly a person has been taken out ofthe water, he should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets; but if thesecannot be obtained, the clothes of the bystanders must be used for thepurpose. His head being slightly raised, and any water, weeds, or froththat may happen to be in his mouth, having been removed, he should becarried as quickly as possible to the nearest house. He should now beput into a warm bath, about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear, andkept there for about ten minutes, artificial breathing being hadrecourse to while he is in it. Having been taken out of the bath, heshould be placed flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, upon awarm bed in a warm room, wiped perfectly dry, and then rubbed constantlyall over the body with warm flannels. At the same time, mustardpoultices should be put to the soles of the feet, the palms of thehands, and the inner surface of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, orbottles filled with warm water, should be placed under the armpits. Thenose should be tickled with a feather, and smelling-salts applied to it. This treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready, aswell as when the body has been taken out of it. The bath is notabsolutely necessary; constantly rubbing the body with flannels in awarm room having been found sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodiesays that warm air is quite as good as warm water. When symptoms ofreturning consciousness begin to show themselves, give a little wine, brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile and water. In some cases it isnecessary, in about twelve or twenty-four hours after the patient hasrevived, to bleed him, for peculiar head-symptoms which now and thenoccur. Bleeding, however, even in the hands of professional menthemselves, should be very cautiously used--non-professional ones shouldnever think of it. The best thing to do in these cases is to keep thehead well raised, and cool with a lotion such as that recommended abovefor sprains; to administer an aperient draught, and to abstain fromgiving anything that stimulates, such as wine, brandy, sal-volatile, &c. &c. As a general rule, a person dies in three minutes and a half afterhe has been under water. It is difficult, however, to tell how long hehas actually been _under_ it, although we may know well exactly how longhe has been _in_ it. This being the case, always persevere in yourattempts at resuscitation until actual signs of death have shownthemselves, even for six, eight, or ten hours. Dr. Douglas, of Glasgow, resuscitated a person who had been under water for fourteen minutes, bysimply rubbing the whole of his body with warm flannels, in a warm room, for eight hours and a half, at the end of which time the person began toshow the _first_ symptoms of returning animation. Should the accidentoccur at a great distance from any house, this treatment should beadopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of. Breathingthrough any tube, such as a piece of card or paper rolled into the formof a pipe, will do as a substitute for the bellows. To recapitulate: Rubthe body dry; take matters out of mouth; cover with blankets or clothes;slightly raise the head, and place the body in a warm bath, or on a bedin a warm room; apply smelling-salts to nose; employ artificialbreathing; rub well with warm flannels; put mustard poultices to feet, hands, and insides of thighs and legs, with warm bricks or bottles toarmpits. _Don't bleed_. Give wine, brandy, or sal-volatile whenrecovering, and _persevere till actual signs of death are seen. _

2677. Briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation, let ustreat of _Lightning_. When a person has been struck by lightning, thereis a general paleness of the whole body, with the exception of the partstruck, which is often blackened, or even scorched. --_Treatment_. Sameas for drowning. It is not, however, of much use; for when death takesplace at all, it is generally instantaneous. 

2678. CURE FOR THE TOOTHACHE. --Take a piece of sheet zinc, about thesize of a sixpence, and a piece of silver, say a shilling; place themtogether, and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous tothem; in a few minutes the pain will be gone, as if by magic. The zincand silver, acting as a galvanic battery, will produce on the nerves ofthe tooth sufficient electricity to establish a current, andconsequently to relieve the pain. Or smoke a pipe of tobacco andcaraway-seeds. Again--

2679. A small piece of the pellitory root will, by the flow of saliva itcauses, afford relief. Creosote, or a few drops of tincture of myrrh, orfriar's balsam, on cotton, put on the tooth, will often subdue the pain. A small piece of camphor, however, retained in the mouth, is the mostreliable and likely means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreadedenemy. 

2680. WARTS. --Eisenberg says, in his "Advice on the Hand, " that thehydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts; theprocess, however, is very slow, and demands perseverance, for, ifdiscontinued before the proper time, no advantage is gained. Thefollowing is a simple cure:--On breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plantin two, a drop of milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper partof the stem; if this be allowed to drop on a wart, so that it be wellsaturated with the juice, in about three or four dressings the wartswill die, and may be taken off with the fingers. They may be removed bythe above means from the teats of cows, where they are sometimes verytroublesome, and prevent them standing quiet to be milked. The warttouched lightly every second day with lunar caustic, or rubbed everynight with blue-stone, for a few weeks, will destroy the largest wart, wherever situated. 

2681. To CURE A WHITLOW. --As soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly, apretty large piece should be snipped out, so that the watery matter mayreadily escape, and continue to flow out as fast as produced. Abread-and-water poultice should be put on for a few days, when the woundshould be bound up lightly with some mild ointment, when a cure will bespeedily completed. Constant poulticing both before and after theopening of the whitlow, is the only practice needed; but as the matterlies deep, when it is necessary to open the abscess, the incision mustbe made _deep_ to reach the suppuration. 

2682. WOUNDS. --There are several kinds of wounds, which are called bydifferent names, according to their appearance, or the manner in whichthey are produced. As, however, it would be useless, and even hurtful, to bother the reader's head with too many nice professionaldistinctions, we shall content ourselves with dividing wounds into threeclasses. 

2683. 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_--those produced by a knife, or somesharp instrument. 

2684. 2. _Lacerated, or torn wounds_--those produced by the claws of ananimal, the bite of a dog, running quickly against some projecting bluntobject, such as a nail, &c. 

2685. 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_--those produced by anythingrunning deeply into the flesh; such as a sword, a sharp nail, a spike, the point of a bayonet, &c. 

2686. Class 1. _Incised wounds or cuts_. --The danger arising from theseaccidents is owing more to their position than to their extent. Thus, acut of half an inch long, which goes through an artery, is more seriousthan a cut of two inches long, which is not near one. Again, a small cuton the head is more often followed by dangerous symptoms than a muchlarger one on the legs. --_Treatment_. If the cut is not a very largeone, and no artery or vein is wounded, this is very simple. If there areany foreign substances left in the wound, they must be taken out, andthe bleeding must be quite stopped before the wound is strapped up. Ifthe bleeding is not very great, it may easily be stopped by raising thecut part, and applying rags dipped in cold water to it. All clots ofblood must be carefully removed; for, if they are left behind, theyprevent the wound from healing. When the bleeding has been stopped, andthe wound perfectly cleaned, its two edges are to be brought closelytogether by thin straps of common adhesive plaster, which should remainon, if there is not great pain or heat about the part, for two or threedays, without being removed. The cut part should be kept raised andcool. When the strips of plaster are to be taken off, they should firstbe well bathed with lukewarm water. This will cause them to come awayeasily, and without opening the lips of the wound; which accident isvery likely to take place, if they are pulled off without having beenfirst moistened with the warm water. If the wound is not healed when thestrips of plaster are taken off, fresh ones must be applied. Great careis required in treating cuts of the head, as they are often followed byerysipelas taking place round them. They should be strapped withisinglass plaster, which is much less irritating than the ordinaryadhesive plaster. Only use as many strips as are actually requisite tokeep the two edges of the wound together; keep the patient quite quiet, on low diet, for a week or so, according to his symptoms. Purge him wellwith the No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with the samequantity of compound extract of colocynth; make into two pills, the dosefor an adult). If the patient is feverish, give him two tablespoonfulsof the fever-mixture three times a day. (The fever-mixture, we remindour readers, is thus made: Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms ofcarbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and atablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water. ) Aperson should be very careful of himself for a month or two after havinghad a bad cut on the head. His bowels should be kept constantly open, and all excitement and excess avoided. When a vein or artery is wounded, the danger is, of course, much greater. Those accidents, therefore, should always be attended to by a surgeon, if he can possibly beprocured. Before he arrives, however, or in case his assistance cannotbe obtained at all, the following treatment should be adopted:--Raisethe cut part, and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it. This will often be sufficient to stop the bleeding, if the dividedartery or vein is not dangerous. When an artery is divided, the blood isof a bright red colour, and comes away in jets. In this case, andsupposing the leg or arm to be the cut part, a handkerchief is to betied tightly round the limb _above_ the cut; and, if possible, the twobleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece of silk. Ifthe bleeding is from a vein, the blood is much darker, and does not comeaway in jets. In this case, the handkerchief is to be tied _below_ thecut, and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided endsof the vein. Let every bad cut, especially where there is much bleeding, and even although it may to all appearance have been stopped, beattended to by a surgeon, if one can by any means be obtained. 

2687. Class 2. _Lacerated or torn wounds_. --There is not so muchbleeding in these cases as in clean cuts, because the blood-vessels aretorn across in a zigzag manner, and not divided straight across. Inother respects, however, they are more serious than ordinary cuts, beingoften followed by inflammation, mortification, fever, and in some casesby locked-jaw. Foreign substances are also more likely to remain inthem. --_Treatment_. Stop the bleeding, if there is any, in the mannerdirected for cuts; remove all substances that may be in the wound; keepthe patient quite quiet, and on low diet--gruel, arrowroot, and thelike; purge with the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture. (The No. 1 pill:Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder, witha little bread-crumb, and make into two pills, which is the dose for anadult. The No. 1 mixture: Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half apint of senna tea. A quarter of the mixture is a dose. ) If there arefeverish symptoms, give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture (see above)every four hours. If possible, bring the two edges of the woundtogether, _but do not strain the parts to do this_. If they cannot bebrought together, on account of a piece of flesh being taken clean out, or the raggedness of their edges, put lint dipped in cold water over thewound, and cover it with oiled silk. It will then fill up from thebottom. If the wound, after being well washed, should still contain anysand, or grit of any kind, or if it should get red and hot frominflammation, a large warm bread poultice will be the best thing toapply until it becomes quite clean, or the inflammation goes down. Whenthe wound is a very large one, the application of warm poppyfomentations is better than that of the lint dipped in cold water. Ifthe redness and pain about the part, and the general feverish symptoms, are great, from eight to twelve leeches are to be applied round thewound, and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice applied afterthey drop off. 

2688. Class 3. _Punctured or penetrating wounds_. --These, for manyreasons, are the most serious of all kinds of wounds. --_Treatment_. Thesame as that for lacerated wounds. Pus (matter) often forms at thebottom of these wounds, which should, therefore, be kept open at thetop, by separating their edges every morning with a bodkin, and applyinga warm bread poultice immediately afterwards. They will then, in allprobability, heal up from the bottom, and any matter which may form willfind its own way out into the poultice. Sometimes, however, in spite ofall precautions, collections of matter (abscesses) will form at thebottom or sides of the wound. Those are to be opened with a lancet, andthe matter thus let out. When matter is forming, the patient has coldshiverings, throbbing pain in the part, and flushes on the face, whichcome and go. A swelling of the part is also often seen. The matter inthe abscesses may be felt to move backwards and forwards, when pressureis made from one side of the swelling to the other with the first andsecond fingers (the middle and that next the thumb) of each hand. 

MEDICAL MEMORANDA. 

2689. ADVANTAGES OF CLEANLINESS. --Health and strength cannot be longcontinued unless the skin--_all_ the skin--is washed frequently with asponge or other means. Every morning is best; after which the skinshould be rubbed very well with a rough cloth. This is the most certainway of preventing cold, and a little substitute for exercise, as itbrings blood to the surface, and causes it to circulate well through thefine capillary vessels. Labour produces this circulation naturally. Theinsensible perspiration cannot escape well if the skin is not clean, asthe pores get choked up. It is said that in health about half thealiment we take passes out through the skin. 

2690. THE TOMATO MEDICINAL. --To many persons there is somethingunpleasant, not to say offensive, in the flavour of this excellentfruit. It has, however, long been used for culinary purposes in variouscountries of Europe. Dr. Bennett, a professor of some celebrity, considers it an invaluable article of diet, and ascribes to it veryimportant medicinal properties. He declares:--1. That the tomato is oneof the most powerful deobstruents of the _materia medica_; and that, inall those affections of the liver and other organs where calomel isindicated, it is probably the most effective and least harmful remedialagent known in the profession. 2. That a chemical extract can beobtained from it, which will altogether supersede the use of calomel inthe cure of diseases. 3. That he has successfully treated diarrhoea withthis article alone. 4. That when used as an article of diet, it isalmost a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion. 

2691. WARM WATER. --Warm water is preferable to cold water, as a drink, to persons who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints, and itmay be taken more freely than cold water, and consequently answersbetter as a diluent for carrying off bile, and removing obstructions inthe urinary secretion, in cases of stone and gravel. When water of atemperature equal to that of the human body is used for drink, it provesconsiderably stimulant, and is particularly suited to dyspeptic, bilious, gouty, and chlorotic subjects. 

2692. CAUTIONS IN VISITING SICK-ROOMS. --Never venture into a sick-roomif you are in a violent perspiration (if circumstances require yourcontinuance there), for the moment your body becomes cold, it is in astate likely to absorb the infection, and give you the disease. Norvisit a sick person (especially if the complaint be of a contagiousnature) with _an empty stomach_; as this disposes the system morereadily to receive the contagion. In attending a sick person, placeyourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed of thediseased, not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in theroom, as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in thatdirection, and you would run much danger from breathing it. 

2693. NECESSITY OF GOOD VENTILATION IN ROOMS LIGHTED WITH GAS. --Indwelling-houses lighted by gas, the frequent renewal of the air is ofgreat importance. A single gas-burner will consume more oxygen, andproduce more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room, thansix or eight candles. If, therefore, when several burners are used, noprovision is made for the escape of the corrupted air and for theintroduction of pure air from without, the health will necessarilysuffer. 

LEGAL MEMORANDA. 

CHAPTER XLIV. 

2694. Humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can beperformed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of thelaw by which our rights are so carefully guarded; and those learned inthe law, when they do give advice without the usual fee, and in theconfidence of friendship, generally say, "Pay, pay anything rather thango to law;" while those having experience in the courts of Themis have awholesome dread of its pitfalls. There are a few exceptions, however, tothis fear of the law's uncertainties; and we hear of those to whom alawsuit is on agreeable relaxation, a gentle excitement. One of thisclass, when remonstrated with, retorted, that while one friend keptdogs, and another horses, he, as he had a right to do, kept a lawyer;and no one had a right to dispute his taste. We cannot pretend, in thesefew pages, to lay down even the principles of law, not to speak of itscontrary exposition in different courts; but there are a few acts oflegal import which all men--and women too--must perform; and to theseacts we may be useful in giving a right direction. There is a house tobe leased or purchased, servants to be engaged, a will to be made, orproperty settled, in all families; and much of the welfare of itsmembers depends on these things being done in proper legal form. 

2695. PURCHASING A HOUSE. --Few men will venture to purchase a freehold, or even a leasehold property, by private contract, without makingthemselves acquainted with the locality, and employing a solicitor toexamine the titles, ; but many do walk into an auction-room, and bid fora property upon the representations of the auctioneer. The conditions, whatever they are, will bind him; for by one of the legal fictions ofwhich we have still so many, the auctioneer, who is in reality the agentfor the vendor, becomes also the agent for the buyer, and by puttingdown the names of bidders and the biddings, he binds him to whom the lotis knocked down to the sale and the conditions, --the falling of theauctioneer's hammer is the acceptance of the offer, which completes theagreement to purchase. In any such transaction you can only look at thewritten or printed particulars; any verbal statement of the auctioneer, made at the time of the sale, cannot contradict them, and they areimplemented by the agreement, which the auctioneer calls on thepurchaser to sign after the sale. You should sign no such contractwithout having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer, and deliveredto you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that no trustee or assigneecan purchase property for himself included in the trust, even atauction; nor is it safe to pay the purchase money to an agent of thevendor, unless he give a written authority to the agent to receive it, besides handing over the requisite deeds and receipts. 

2696. The laws of purchase and sale of property are so complicated thatLord St. Leonards devotes five chapters of his book on Property Law tothe subject. The only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase, which has been reduced to a written contract, is proof of fraudulentrepresentation as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant, ora defect in title; but every circumstance which the purchaser might havelearned by careful investigation, the law presumes that he did know. Thus, in buying a leasehold estate or house, all the covenants of theoriginal lease are presumed to be known. "It is not unusual, " says LordSt. Leonards, "to stipulate, in conditions of sale of leaseholdproperty, that the production of a receipt for the last year's rentshall be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants wereperformed up to that period. Never bid for one clogged with such acondition. There are some acts against which no relief can be obtained;for example, the tenant's right to insure, or his insuring in an officeor in names not authorized in the lease. And you should not rely uponthe mere fact of the insurance being correct at the time of sale: theremay have been a prior breach of covenant, and the landlord may not havewaived his right of entry for the forfeiture. " And where any doubt ofthis kind exists, the landlord should be appealed to. 

2697. Interest on a purchase is due from the day fixed upon forcompleting: where it cannot be completed, the loss rests with the partywith whom the delay rests; but it appears, when the delay rests with theseller, and the money is lying idle, notice of that is to be given tothe seller to make him liable to the loss of interest. In law, theproperty belongs to the purchaser from the date of the contract; he isentitled to any benefit, and must bear any loss; the seller may sufferthe insurance to drop without giving notice; and should a fire takeplace, the loss falls on the buyer. In agreeing to buy a house, therefore, provide at the same time for its insurance. Common fixturespass with the house, where nothing is said about them. 

2698. There are some well-recognized laws, of what may be calledgood-neighbourhood, which affect all properties. If you purchase a fieldor house, the seller retaining another field between yours and thehighway, he must of necessity grant you a right of way. Where the ownerof more than one house sells one of them, the purchaser is entitled tobenefit by all drains leading from his house into other drains, and willbe subject to all necessary drains for the adjoining houses, althoughthere is no express reservation as to drains. 

Thus, if his happens to be a leading drain, other necessary drains maybe opened into it. In purchasing land for building on, you shouldexpressly reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer orwatercourse on the vendor's land for drainage purposes. 

2699. CONSTRUCTIONS. --Among the cautions which purchasers of houses, land, or leaseholds, should keep in view, is a not inconsiderable arrayof _constructive_ notices, which are equally binding with actual ones. Notice to your attorney or agent is notice to you; and when the sameattorney is employed by both parties, and he is aware of an encumbranceof which you are ignorant, you are bound by it; even where the vendor isguilty of a fraud to which your agent is privy, you are responsible, andcannot be released from the consequences. 

2700. THE RELATIONS OF LANDLORD AND TENANT are most important to bothparties, and each should clearly understand his position. The proprietorof a house, or house and land, agrees to let it either to atenant-at-will, a yearly tenancy, or under lease. A tenancy-at-will maybe created by parol or by agreement; and as the tenant may be turned outwhen his landlord pleases, so he may leave when he himself thinksproper; but this kind of tenancy is extremely inconvenient to bothparties. Where an annual rent is attached to the tenancy, inconstruction of law, a lease or agreement without limitation to anycertain period is a lease from year to year, and both landlord andtenant are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined bythe other. This notice must be given at least six months before theexpiration of the current year of the tenancy, and it can only terminateat the end of any whole year from the time at which it began; so thatthe tenant entering into possession at Midsummer, the notice must begiven to or by him, so as to terminate at the same term. When once he isin possession, he has a right to remain for a whole year; and if nonotice be given at the end of the first half-year of his tenancy, hewill have to remain two years, and so on for any number of years. 

2701. TENANCY BY SUFFERANCE. --This is a tenancy, not very uncommon, arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiativein a more decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement. Thetenant remains in possession, and continues to pay rent as before, andbecomes, from sufferance, a tenant from year to year, which can only beterminated by one party or the other giving the necessary six months'notice to quit at the term corresponding with the commencement of theoriginal tenancy. This tenancy at sufferance applies also to anunder-tenant, who remains in possession and pays rent to the reversioneror head landlord. A six months' notice will be insufficient for thistenancy. A notice was given (in Right v. Darby, I. T. R. 159) to quit ahouse held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year, on the 17th June, 1840, requiring him "to quit the premises on the 11th October following, or such other day as his said tenancy might expire. " The tenancy hadcommenced on the 11th October in a former year, but it was held thatthis was not a good notice for the year ending October 11, 1841. Atenant from year to year gave his landlord notice to quit, ending thetenancy at a time within the half-year; the landlord acquiesced atfirst, but afterwards refused to accept the notice. The tenant quittedthe premises; the landlord entered, and even made some repairs, but itwas afterwards held that the tenancy was not determined. A notice toquit must be such as the tenant may safely act on at the time ofreceiving it; therefore it can only be given by an agent properlyauthorized at the time, and cannot be made good by the landlord adoptingit afterwards. An unqualified notice, given at the proper time, shouldconclude with "On failure whereof, I shall require you to pay me doublethe former rent for so long as you retain possession. "

2702. LEASES. --A lease is an instrument in writing, by which one persongrants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for aterm of years for a consideration, the lessor granting the lease, andthe lessee accepting it with all its conditions. A lessor may grant thelease for any term less than his own interest. A tenant for life in anestate can only grant a lease for his own life. A tenant for life, having power to grant a lease, should grant it only in the terms of thepower, otherwise the lease is void, and his estate may be made to payheavy penalties under the covenant, usually the only one onerous on thelessor, for quiet enjoyment. The proprietor of a freehold--that is, ofthe possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements--may grant a leasefor 999 years, for 99 years, or for 3 years. In the latter case, thelease may be either verbal or in writing, no particular form and nostamps being necessary, except the usual stamp on agreements; so long asthe intention of the parties is clearly expressed, and the covenantsdefinite, and well understood by each party, the agreement is complete, and the law satisfied. In the case of settled estates, the court ofChancery is empowered to authorize leases under the 19 & 20 Vict. C. 120, and 21 & 22 Vict. C. 77, as follows:--

 21 years for agriculture or occupation. 40 years for water-power. 99 years for building-leases. 60 years for repairing-leases. 

2703. A lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than hisown: to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment. Leases arefrequently burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consentof the landlord: this is a covenant sometimes very onerous, and to beavoided, where it is possible, by a prudent lessee. 

2704. A lease for any term beyond three years, whether an actual leaseor an agreement for one, must be in the form of a deed; that is, it mustbe "under seal;" and all assignments and surrenders of leases must be inthe same form, or they are _void at law_. Thus an agreement made byletter, or by a memorandum of agreement, which would be binding in mostcases, would be valueless when it was for a lease, unless witnessed, andgiven under hand and seal. The last statute, 8 & 9 Vict. C. 106, underwhich these precautions became necessary, has led to seriousdifficulties. "The judges, " says Lord St. Leonards, "feel the difficultyof holding a lease in writing, but not by deed, to be altogether void, and consequently decided, that although such a lease is void under thestatute, yet it so far regulates the holding, that it creates a tenancyfrom year to year, terminable by half a year's notice; and if the tenureendure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease, thetenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice toquit. " An agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be alease for a term of years, and consequently void under the statute; "andyet, " says Lord St. Leonards, "a court of equity has held that it may bespecifically enforced as an agreement upon the terms stated. " The law onthis point is one of glorious uncertainty; in making any such agreement, therefore, we should be careful to express that it is an agreement, andnot a lease; and that it is witnessed and under seal. 

2705. AGREEMENTS. --It is usual, where the lease is a repairing one, toagree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according tospecification. This agreement should contain the names and designationof the parties, a description of the property, and the term of theintended lease, and all the covenants which are to be inserted, as noverbal agreement can be made to a written agreement. It should alsodeclare that the instrument is an agreement for a lease, and not thelease itself. The points to be settled in such an agreement are, therent, term, and especially covenants for insuring and rebuilding in theevent of a fire; and if it is intended that the lessor's consent is tobe obtained before assigning or underleasing, a covenant to that effectis required in the agreement. In building-leases, usually granted for 99years, the tenant is to insure the property; and even where theagreement is silent on that point, the law decides it so. It isotherwise with ordinary tenements, when the tenant pays a full, or whatthe law terms rack-rent; the landlord is then to insure, unless it isotherwise arranged by the agreement. 

2706. It is important for lessee, and lessor, also, that the latter doesnot exceed his powers. A lease granted by a tenant for life before he isproperly in possession, is void in law; for, although a court of equity, according to Lord St. Leonards, will, "by force of its own jurisdiction, support a _bonâ fide_ lease, granted under a power which is merelyerroneous in form or ceremonies, " and the 12 & 13 Vict. C. 26, and 13 &14 Vict. C. 19, compel a new lease to be granted with the necessaryvariations, while the lessor has no power to compel him to accept such alease, except when the person in remainder is competent and willing toconfirm the original lease without variations, yet all thesedifficulties involve both delay, costs, and anxieties. 

2707. In husbandry leases, a covenant to cultivate the land in ahusbandlike manner, and according to the custom of the district, isalways implied; but it is more usual to prescribe the course of tillagewhich is to be pursued. In the case of houses for occupation, the tenantwould have to keep the house in a tenantable state of repair during theterm, and deliver it up in like condition. This is not the case with thetenant at will, or from year to year, where the landlord has to keep thehouse in tenantable repair, and the tenant is only liable for wastebeyond reasonable wear and tear. 

2708. INSURANCE. --Every lease, or agreement for a lease, should covenantnot only who is to pay insurance, but how the tenement is to be rebuiltin the event of a fire; for if the house were burnt down, and noprovision made for insurance, the tenant, supposing there was theordinary covenant to repair in the lease, would not only have torebuild, but to pay rent while it was being rebuilt. More than this, supposing, under the same lease, the landlord had taken the precautionof insuring, he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered inrebuilding the premises. Sir John Leach lays it down, that "the tenant'ssituation could not be changed by a precaution, on the part of thelandlord, with which he had nothing to do. " This decision Lord Campbellconfirmed in a more recent case, in which an action was brought againsta lessee who was not bound to repair, and neither he nor the landlordbound to insure; admitting an equitable defence, the court affirmed SirJohn Leach's decision, holding that the tenant was bound to pay therent, and could not require the landlord to lay out the insurance moneyin rebuilding. This is opposed to the opinion of Lord St. Leonards, whoadmits, however, that the decision of the court must overrule his_dictum_. Such being the state of the law, it is very important thatinsurance should be provided for, and that the payment of rent should bemade to depend upon rebuilding the house in the event of a fire. Caremust be taken, however, that this is made a covenant of the lease, aswell as in the agreement, otherwise the tenant must rebuild the house. 

2709. The law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages bytempest, lightning, or other natural casualty, unless there is a specialcovenant to that effect in the lease; but if there is a general covenantto repair, the repair will fall upon the tenant. Lord Kenyon lays itdown, in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood, the tenant beingunder a general covenant to repair, that, "where a party, by his owncontract, creates a duty or charge upon himself, he is bound to make itgood, because he might have guarded against it in the contract. " Thesame principle of law has been applied to a house destroyed bylightning. It is, therefore, important to have this settled in theinsurance clause. 

2710. Lord St. Leonards asserts that "his policies against fire are notso framed as to render the company _legally_ liable. " Generally theproperty is inaccurately described with reference to the conditionsunder which you insure. They are framed by companies who, probably, arenot unwilling to have a legal defence against any claim, as they intendto pay what they deem just claim without taking advantage of anytechnical objection, and intending to make use of their defence onlyagainst what they believe to be a fraud, although they may not be ableto prove it. "But, " says his lordship, "do not rely upon the moralfeelings of the directors. Ascertain that your house falls strictlywithin the conditions. Even having the surveyor of the company to lookover your house before the insurance will not save you, unless yourpolicy is correct. " This is true; but probably his lordship's legaljealousy overshoots the mark here. Assurance companies only require anhonest statement of the facts, and that no concealment is practised withtheir surveyor; and the case of his own, which he quotes, in which aglass door led into a conservatory, rendering it, according to the viewof the company, "hazardous, " and consequently voiding the policy, when afire did occur, the company paid, rather than try the question; but evenafter the fire they demurred, when called upon, to make the descriptioncorrect and indorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room openedthrough a glass door into conservatories. One of two inferences isobvious here; either his lordship has overcoloured the statement, or thecompany could not be the respectable one represented. The practice withall reputable offices is to survey the premises before insurance, and todescribe them as they appear; but no concealment of stoves, or otherdangerous accessories or inflammable goods, should be practised. Thiscertainly binds the office so long as no change takes place; but theaddition of any stove, opening, or door through a party wall, theintroduction of gunpowder, saltpetre, or other inflammable articles intothe premises without notice, very properly "voids the policy. " The usualcourse is to give notice of all alterations, and have them indorse onthe policy, as additions to the description of the property: there islittle fear, where this is honestly done, that any company would adoptthe sharp practice hinted at in Lord St. Leonards' excellent handy book. 

2711. BREAKS IN THE LEASE. --Where a lease is for seven, fourteen, ortwenty-one years, the option to determine it at the end of the firstterm is in the tenant, unless it is distinctly agreed that the optionshall be mutual, according to Lord St. Leonards. 

2712. NOXIOUS TRADES. --A clause is usually introduced prohibiting thecarrying on of any trade in some houses, and of noxious or particulartrades in others. This clause should be jealously inspected, otherwisegreat annoyance may be produced. It has been held that a general clauseof this description prohibited a tenant from keeping a school, for whichhe had taken it, although a lunatic asylum and public-house have beenfound admissible; the keeping an asylum not being deemed a trade, whichis defined as "conducted by buying and selling. " It is better to havethe trades, or class of trades objected to, defined in the lease. 

2713. FIXTURES. --In houses held under lease, it has been the practicewith landlords to lease the bare walls of the tenement only, leaving thelessee to put in the stoves, cupboards, and such other conveniences ashe requires, at his own option. Those, except under particularcircumstances, are the property of the lessee, and may either be sold toan incoming tenant, or removed at the end of his term. The articleswhich may not be removed are subject to considerable doubt, and are afruitful source of dispute. Mr. Commissioner Fonblanque has defined astenants' property all goods and chattels; 2ndly, all articles "slightlyconnected one with another, and with the freehold, but capable of beingseparated without materially injuring the freehold;" 3rdly, articlesfixed to the freehold by nails and screws, bolts or pegs, are alsotenants' goods and chattels; but when sunk in the soil, or built on it, they are integral parts of the freehold, and cannot be removed. Thus, agreenhouse or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is notremovable; but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated, may be removed or sold to the in-coming tenant. A brick flue does notcome under the same category, but remains. Window-blinds, grates, stoves, coffee-mills, and, in a general sense, everything he has placedwhich can be removed without injury to the freehold, he may remove, ifthey are separated from the tenement during his term, and the place madegood. It is not unusual to leave the fixtures in their place, with anundertaking from the landlord that, when again let, the in-coming tenantshall pay for them, or permit their removal. In a recent case, however, a tenant having held over beyond his term and not removed his fixtures, the landlord let the premises to a new tenant, who entered intopossession, and would not allow the fixtures to be removed--it was heldby the courts, on trial, that he was justified. A similar case occurredto the writer: he left his fixtures in the house, taking a letter fromthe landlord, undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay for themby valuation, or permit their removal. The house was let; the landlorddied. His executors, on being applied to, pleaded ignorance, as did thetenant, and on being furnished with a copy of the letter, the executorstold applicant that if he was aggrieved, he knew his remedy; namely, anaction at law. He thought the first loss the least, and has not alteredhis opinion. 

2714. TAXES. --Land-tax, sewers-rate, and property-tax, are landlord'staxes; but by 30 Geo. II. C. 2, the occupier is required to pay allrates levied, and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to thelandlord. Many landlords now insert a covenant, stipulating thatland-tax and sewers-rate are to be paid by the tenants, and notdeducted: this does not apply to the property-tax. All other taxes andrates are payable by the occupier. 

2715. WATER-RATE, of course, is paid by the tenant. The water-companies, as well as gas-companies, have the power of cutting off the supply; andmost of them have also the right of distraining, in the same manner aslandlords have for rent. 

2716. NOTICE TO QUIT. --In the case of leasing for a term, no notice isnecessary; the tenant quits, as a matter of course, at its termination;or if, by tacit consent, he remains paying rent as heretofore, hebecomes a tenant at sufferance, or from year to year. Half a year'snotice now becomes necessary, as we have already seen, to terminate thetenancy; except in London, and the rent is under forty shillings, when aquarter's notice is sufficient. Either of these notices may be givenverbally, if it can be proved that the notice was definite, and given atthe right time. Form of notice is quite immaterial, provided it isdefinite and clear in its purport. 

2717. Tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to thetaking. Thus, when taken for three months, a three months' notice isrequired; when monthly, a month's notice; and when weekly, a week'snotice; but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rentis allowed to stand over for three months. When taken for a definitetime, as a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is necessary on eitherside. 

2718. DILAPIDATIONS. --At the termination of a lease, supposing he hasnot done so before, a landlord can, and usually does, send a surveyor toreport upon the condition of the tenement, and it becomes his duty toferret out every defect. A litigious landlord may drag the outgoingtenant into an expensive lawsuit, which he has no power to prevent. Hemay even compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he haseffected in the tenement itself, if dilapidations exist. When the lessorcovenants to do all repairs, and fails to do so, the lessee may repair, and deduct the cost from the rent. 

2719. RECOVERY OF RENT. --The remedies placed in the hands of landlordsare very stringent. The day after rent falls due, he may proceed torecover it, by action at law, by distress on the premises, or by actionof ejectment, if the rent is half a year in arrear. Distress is theremedy usually applied, the landlord being authorized to enter thepremises, seize the goods and chattels of his tenant, and sell them, onthe fifth day, to reimburse himself for all arrears of rent and thecharges of the distress. There are a few exceptions; but, generally, allgoods found on the premises may be seized. The exceptions are--dogs, rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and implements of a man's trade actuallyin use, the books of a scholar, the axe of a carpenter, wearing apparelon the person, a horse at the plough, or a horse he may be riding, awatch in the pocket, loose money, deeds, writings, the cattle at asmithy forge, corn sent to a mill for grinding, cattle and goods of aguest at an inn; but, curiously enough, carriages and horses standing atlivery at the same inn may be taken. Distress can only be levied in thedaytime, and if made after the tender of arrears, it is illegal. Iftender is made after the distress, but before it is _impounded_, thelandlord must abandon the distress and bear the cost himself. Nothing ofa perishable nature, which cannot be restored in the same condition--asmilk, fruit, and the like, must be taken. 

2720. The law does not regard a day as consisting of portions. Thepopular notion that a notice to quit should be served before noon is anerror. Although distraint is one of the remedies, it is seldom advisablein a landlord to resort to distraining for the recovery of rent. If atenant cannot pay his rent, the sooner he leaves the premises thebetter. If he be a rogue and won't pay, he will probably know that nineout of ten distresses are illegal, through the carelessness, ignorance, or extortion of the brokers who execute them. Many, if not most, of therespectable brokers will not execute distresses, and the business fallsinto the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ. 

2721. Powers to relieve landlords of premises, by giving them legalpossession, are given by 19 & 20 Vict. , cap. 108, to the county courts, in cases where the rent does not exceed £50 per annum, and under thecircumstances hereinafter mentioned; i. E. :--

 1. Where the term has expired, or been determined by notice to quit. 

 2. Where there is one half-year's rent in arrear, and _the landlord shall have right by law to enter for the nonpayment thereof_. As proof of this power is required, the importance of including such a power in the agreement for tenancy will be obvious. 

In the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed, as well asthe possession of the premises, in one summons. 

2722. When a tenant deserts premises, leaving one half-year's rent inarrear, possession may be recovered by means of the police-court. Therent must not exceed £20 per annum, and must be at least three-fourthsof the value of the premises. In cases in which the tenant has notdeserted the premises, and where notice to quit has been given and hasexpired, the landlord must give notice to the tenant of his intendedapplication. The annual rent in this case, also, must not exceed £20. 

2723. THE I. O. U. --The law is not particular as to orthography; infact, it distinctly refuses to recognize the existence of thatdelightful science. You may bring your action against Mr. JacobPhillips, under the fanciful denomination of Jaycobb Fillipse, if youlike, and the law won't care, because the law goes by ear; and, althoughit insists upon having everything written, things written are onlysupposed in law to have any meaning when read, which is, after all, acommon-sense rule enough. So, instead of "I owe you, " persons of acheerful disposition, so frequently found connected with debt, used towrite facetiously I. O. U. , and the law approved of their so doing. AnI. O. U. Is nothing more than a written admission of a debt, and may runthus:--

 15th October, 1860. To Mr. W. BROWN. 

 I. O. U. Ten pounds for coals. 

 £10. JOHN JONES. 

If to this you add the time of payment, as "payable in one month fromthis date, " your I. O. U. Is worthless and illegal; for it thus ceasesto be a mere acknowledgment, and becomes a promissory note. Now apromissory note requires a stamp, which an I. O. U. Does not. Manypersons, nevertheless, stick penny stamps upon them, probably forornamental effect, or to make them look serious and authoritative. Iffor the former purpose, the postage-stamp looks better than the receiptstamp upon blue paper. If you are W. Brown, and you didn't see the I. O. U. Signed, and can't find anybody who knows Jones's autograph, and Joneswon't pay, the I. O. U. Will be of no use to you in the county court, except to make the judge laugh. He will, however, allow you to prove theconsideration, and as, of course, you won't be prepared to do anythingof the sort, he will, if you ask him politely, adjourn the hearing for aweek, when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered the article, and thus gain a glorious victory. 

2724. APPRENTICES. --By the statute 5 Eliz. Cap. 4, it is enacted that, in cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices, or of neglect ofduty by apprentices, the complaining party may apply to a justice of thepeace, who may make such order as equity may require. If, for want ofconformity on the part of the master, this cannot be done, then themaster may be bound to appear at the next sessions. Authority is givenby the act to the justices in sessions to discharge the apprentice fromhis indentures. They are also empowered, on proof of misbehaviour of theapprentice, to order him to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labour. 

2725. HUSBAND AND WIFE. --Contrary to the vulgar opinion, second cousins, as well as first, may legally marry. When married, a husband is liablefor his wife's debts contracted before marriage. A creditor desirous ofsuing for such a claim should proceed against both. It will, however, besufficient if the husband be served with process, the names of bothappearing therein, thus:--John Jones and Ann his wife. A married woman, if sued alone, may plead her marriage, or, as it is called in law, coverture. The husband is liable for debts of his wife contracted fornecessaries while living with him. If she voluntarily leaves hisprotection, this liability ceases. He is also liable for any debtscontracted by her with his authority. If the husband have abjured therealm, or been transported by a sentence of law, the wife is liableduring his absence, as if she were a single woman, for debts contractedby her. 

2726. In civil cases, a wife may now give evidence on behalf of herhusband in criminal cases she can neither be a witness for or againsther husband. The case of assault by him upon her forms an exception tothis rule. 

2727. The law does not at this day admit the ancient principle ofallowing moderate correction by a husband upon the person of his wife. Although this is said to have been anciently limited to the use of "astick not bigger than the thumb, " this barbarity is now altogetherexploded. He may, notwithstanding, as has been recently shown in thefamous Agapemone case, keep her under restraint, to prevent her leavinghim, provided this be effected without cruelty. 

2728. By the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act, 1857, a wife desertedby her husband may apply to a magistrate, or to the petty sessions, foran order to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by herafter such desertion, from her husband and his creditors. In this caseit is indispensable that such order shall, within ten days, be enteredat the county court of the district within which she resides. It will beseen that the basis of an application for such an order is _desertion_. Consequently, where the parties have separated by common consent, suchan order cannot be obtained, any previous cruelty or misconduct on thehusband's part notwithstanding. 

2729. When a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name ina savings-bank, and he survives her, it is sometimes the rule of suchestablishments to compel him to take out administration in order toreceive such money, although it is questionable whether such rule islegally justifiable. Widows and widowers pay no legacy-duty for propertycoming to them through their deceased partners. 

2730. RECEIPTS for sums above £2 should now be given upon penny stamps. A bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsementstating that it has been paid, and this will not be liable to the stamp. A receipt is not, as commonly supposed, conclusive evidence as to apayment. It is only what the law terms _primâ facie_ evidence; that is, good until contradicted or explained. Thus, if A sends wares ormerchandise to B, with a receipt, as a hint that the transaction isintended to be for ready money, and B detain the receipt without payingthe cash, A will be at liberty to prove the circumstances and to recoverhis claim. The evidence to rebut the receipt must, however, be clear andindubitable, as, after all, written evidence is of a stronger naturethan oral testimony. 

2731. BOOKS OF ACCOUNT. --A tradesman's books of account cannot bereceived as evidence in his own behalf, unless the entries therein beproved to have been brought under the notice of, and admitted to becorrect by the other party, as is commonly the case with the"pass-books" employed backwards and forwards between bakers, butchers, and the like domestic traders, and their customers. The defendant may, however, compel the tradesman to produce his books to show entriesadverse to his own claim. 

2732. WILLS. --The last proof of affection which we can give to those leftbehind, is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to exciteneither jealousy, nor anger, nor heartrendings of any kind, at least forthe immediate future. This can only be done by a just, clear, andintelligible disposal of whatever there is to leave. Without beingadvocates for every man being his own lawyer, it is not to be deniedthat the most elaborately prepared wills have been the most fruitfulsources of litigation, and it has even happened that learned judges leftwills behind them which could not be carried out. Except in cases wherethe property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure, veryelaborate details are unnecessary; and we counsel no man to use words inmaking his will of which he does not perfectly understand the meaningand import. 

2733. All men over twenty-one years of age, and of sound mind, and allunmarried women of like age and sanity, may by will bequeath theirproperty to whom they please. Infants, that is, all persons undertwenty-one years of age, and married women, except where they have anestate to their "own separate use, " are incapacitated, without theconcurrence of the husband; the law taking the disposal of any propertythey die possessed of. A person born deaf and dumb cannot make a will, unless there is evidence that he could read and comprehend its contents. A person convicted of felony cannot make a will, unless subsequentlypardoned; neither can persons outlawed; but the wife of a felontransported for life may make a will, and act in all respects as if shewere unmarried. A suicide may bequeath real estate, but personalproperty is forfeited to the crown. 

2734. Except in the case of soldiers on actual service, and sailors atsea, every will must be made in writing. It must be signed by thetestator, or by some other person in his presence, and at his request, and the signature must be made or acknowledged in the presence of two ormore witnesses, who are required to be present at the same time, whodeclare by signing that the will was signed by the testator, oracknowledged in their presence, and that they signed as witnesses intestator's presence. 

2735. By the act of 1852 it was enacted that no will shall be validunless signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator, or by someperson in his presence, and by his direction; but a subsequent actproceeds to say that every will shall, as far only as regards theposition of the signature of the testator, or of the person signing forhim, be deemed valid if the signature shall be so placed at, or after, or following, or under, or beside, or opposite to the end of the will, that it shall be apparent on the face of it that the testator intendedto give it effect by such signature. Under this clause, a will ofseveral sheets, all of which were duly signed, except the last one, hasbeen refused probate; while, on the other hand, a similar document hasbeen admitted to probate where the last sheet only, and none of theother sheets, was signed. In order to be perfectly formal, however, eachseparate sheet should be numbered, signed, and witnessed, and attestedon the last sheet. This witnessing is an important act: the witnessesmust subscribe it in the presence of the testator and of each other; andby their signature they testify to having witnessed the signature of thetestator, he being in sound mind at the time. Wills made under any kindof coercion, or even importunity may become void, being contrary to thewishes of the testator. Fraud or imposition also renders a will void, and where two wills made by the same person happen to exist, neither ofthem dated, the maker of the wills is declared to have died intestate. 

2736. A will may always be revoked and annulled, but only by burning orentirely destroying the writing, or by adding a codicil, or making asubsequent will duly attested; but as the alteration of a will is only arevocation to the extent of the alteration, if it is intended to revokethe original will entirely, such intention should be declared, --nomerely verbal directions can revoke a written will; and the act ofrunning the pen through the signatures, or down the page, is notsufficient to cancel it, without a written declaration to that effectsigned and witnessed. 

2737. A will made before marriage is revoked thereby. 

2738. A codicil is a supplement or addition to a will, either explainingor altering former dispositions; it may be written on the same orseparate paper, and is to be witnessed and attested in the same manneras the original document. 

2739. WITNESSES. --Any persons are qualified to witness a will who canwrite their names; but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will. Ifa legacy is granted to the persons witnessing, it is void. The same ruleapplies to the husband or wife of a witness; a bequest made to either ofthese is void. 

2740. FORM OF WILLS. --Form is unimportant, provided the testator'sintention is clear. It should commence with his designation; that is, his name and surname, place of abode, profession, or occupation. Thelegatees should also be clearly described. In leaving a legacy to amarried woman, if no trustees are appointed over it, and no specificdirections given, "that it is for her sole and separate use, free fromthe control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband, " the husband willbe entitled to the legacy. In the same manner a legacy to an unmarriedwoman will vest in her husband after marriage, unless a settlement of itis made on her before marriage. 

2741. In sudden emergencies a form may be useful, and the following hasbeen considered a good one for a death-bed will, where the assistance ofa solicitor could not be obtained; indeed, few solicitors can prepare awill on the spur of the moment: they require time and legal forms, whichare by no means necessary, before they can act. 

 I, A. B. , of No. 10, ----, Street, in the city of ---- [gentleman, builder, or grocer, as the case may be, ] being of sound mind, thus publish and declare my last will and testament. Revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property, I give and bequeath as follows:--to my son J. B. , of ----, I give and bequeath the sum of ---; to my daughter M. , the wife of J. , of ----, I give and bequeath the sum of ---- [if intended for her own use, add "to her sole and separate use, free from the control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband"], both in addition to any sum or sums of money or other property they have before had from me. All the remaining property I die possessed of I leave to my dear wife M. B. , for her sole and separate use during her natural life, together with my house and furniture, situate at No. 10, ---- Street, aforesaid. At her death, I desire that the said house shall be sold, with all the goods and chattels therein [or, I give and bequeath the said house, with all the goods and chattels therein, to ----], and the money realized from the sale, together with that in which my said wife had a life-interest, I give and bequeath in equal moieties to my son and daughter before named. I appoint my dear friend T. S. , of ----, and T. B. , of ----, together with my wife M. B. , as executors to this my last will and testament. 

 Signed by A. B. , this 10th day of October, 1861, in our presence, both being present together, and both having signed as witnesses, in the presence of the testator:--A. B. 

 T. S. , Witness. F. M. , Witness. 

It is to be observed that the signature of the testator after thisattestation has been signed by the witnesses, is not a compliance withthe act; he must sign first. 

2742. STAMP-DUTIES. --In the case of persons dying intestate, when theireffects are administered to by their family, the stamp-duty is half asmuch more as it would have been under a will. Freehold and copyholdestates are now subject to a special impost on passing, by the Stamp Actof 1857. 

2743. The legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to £20 and upwards;and where it is not directed otherwise, the duty is deducted from thelegacy. 

2744. You cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathingland or tenements, or money to purchase such, to any charitable use, byyour last will and testament; but you may devise them to the BritishMuseum, to either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, toEton, Winchester, and Westminster; and you may, if so inclined, leave itfor the augmentation of Queen Anne's bounty. You may, however, orderyour executors to sell land and hand over the money received to anycharitable institution. 

2745. In making provision for a wife, state whether it is in lieu of, orin addition to, dower. 

2746. If you have advanced money to any child, and taken anacknowledgment for it, or entered it in any book of account, you shoulddeclare whether any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance, or whether it is to be deducted from the legacy. 

2747. A legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by yourleaving another legacy by a codicil to the same person, unless it isstated to be in addition to the former bequest. 

2748. Your entire estate is chargeable with your debts, except where thereal estate is settled. Let it be distinctly stated out of whichproperty, the real or personal, they are paid, where it consists ofboth. 

2749. Whatever is _devised_, let the intention be clearly expressed, andwithout any condition, if you intend it to take effect. 

2750. Attestation is not necessary to a will, as the act of witnessingis all the law requires, and the will itself declares the testator to beof sound mind in his own estimation; but, wherever there are erasures orinterlineations, one becomes necessary. No particular form isprescribed; but it should state that the testator either signed ithimself, or that another signed it by his request, or that heacknowledged the signature to be his in their presence, both beingpresent together, and signed as witnesses in his presence. When thereare erasures, the attestation must declare that--The words interlined inthe third line of page 4, and the erasure in the fifth line of page 6, having been first made. These are the acts necessary to make a properlyexecuted will; and, being simple in themselves and easily performed, they should be strictly complied with, and always attested. 

2751. A witness may, on being requested, sign for testator; and he mayalso sign for his fellow-witness, supposing he can only make his mark, declaring that he does so; but a husband cannot sign for his wife, either as testator or witness, nor can a wife for her husband.