THE ARABIAN ART

OF

TAMING AND TRAINING

WILD & VICIOUS HORSES. 

BY

T. GILBERT, BRO. RAMSEY & CO. 

PRINTED AND SOLD FOR THE PUBLISHER BYHENRY WATKINSPRINTER, 225 & 227 WEST FIFTH STREET, CINCINNATI, OHIO1856. 

INTRODUCTION. 

The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements ofman in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day; but like all othergreat accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process ofdiscoveries and experiments. He first subdued the more subordinateanimals, on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used formany years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead ofthe fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought intosubjection, owing, perhaps, to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge ofhis nature, and his consequent inability to control him. This fact aloneis sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals. 

Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariablycommenced with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from onedegree of perfection to another. The first hint that we have of the use ofelectricity was Franklin's drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Nowit is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind, with arapidity that surpasses time. The great propelling power that drives thewheel of the engine over our land, and ploughs the ocean with oursteamers, was first discovered escaping from a tea-kettle. And so thepowers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known toman only as experiments, and investigation revealed them. 

The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been theconstant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding himwith his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill andmanner of using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force, andknow nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivationof his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant;whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governshim by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal. The manner in which he is treated from a foal gives him an affection andattachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and hischildren, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together; and althoughthe foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to rollupon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the childrenas of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and hismaster, that he will leave his companions at his master's call, ever gladto obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse, and is unableto rise again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if helays down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst ofthe desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arousehim if man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horsessecret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions tocall forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than thebarbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip, a forcibleillustration of which will be found in the following anecdote. 

A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed a mare of great celebrity. Hassad Pacha, then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly madethe owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The Pachathen had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, oneGafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, andasked what he would give the man who should make him master of Jabal'smare? "I will fill his horse's nose-bag with gold, " replied Hassad. Theresult of this interview having gone abroad; Jabal became more watchfulthan ever, and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, oneend of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, afterpassing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in theground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But onemidnight, Gafar crept silently into the tent, and succeeded in looseningthe chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught up Jabal'slance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out: "I am Gafar! I havestolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time. " This warningwas in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostiletribe is considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes itis desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, whenhe heard the words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, thenmounting his brother's mare, accompanied by some of his tribe, he pursuedthe robber for four hours. The brother's mare was of the same stock asJabal's but was not equal to her; nevertheless, he outstripped those ofall the other pursuers, and was even on the point of overtaking therobber, when Jabal shouted to him: "Pinch her right ear and give her atouch of the heel. " Gafar did so, and away went the mare like lightning, speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The _pinch in the ear_ andthe _touch with the heel_ were the secret signs by which Jabal had beenused to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazedand indignant at his strange conduct. "O thou father of a jackass!" theycried, "thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel. " But hesilenced their upbraidings by saying: "I would rather lose her than sullyher reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribesthat another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least thiscomfort left me, that I can say she never met with her match. "

Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, butamongst all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude andindifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delightgained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeksas well as the ruder nations of Northern Africa, for a long while rodewithout either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses, with the voice orthe hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on theside of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urgedhim forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by themuzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but many centurieselapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead ofthese, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richlyadorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; andit is given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans even in the timeswhen luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple anexpedient for assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue andaid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors provethat the horsemen of almost every country were accustomed to mount theirhorses from the right side of the animal, that they might the better graspthe mane, which hangs on that side, a practice universally changed inmodern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horse's backs, thoughthey sometimes carried a spear, with a loop or projection about two feetfrom the bottom which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the localmagistracy were bound to see that blocks for mounting (what the Scotchcall _loupin_-on-stanes) were placed along the road at convenientdistances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount theirhorses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and manywho could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder aboutwith them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddleoccurs in the edict of the Emperor Theodosias, (A. D. 385) from which wealso learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses, to providetheir own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than sixtypounds, a cumbrous contrivance, more like the howdahs placed on the backsof elephants than the light and elegant saddle of modern times. Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. Thefirst seen in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard theSecond, and was probably more like a pillion than the side-saddle of thepresent day. A pillion is a sort of a very low-backed arm-chair, and wasfastened on the horse's croup, behind the saddle, on which a man rode whohad all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease, supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her armaround his body, if the _gentleman was not too ticklish_. But the Mexicansmanage these things with more gallantry than the ancients did. The"pisanna, " or country lady, we are told is often seen mounted before her"cavalera, " who take the more natural position of being seated behind hisfair one, supporting her by throwing his arm around her waist, (a veryappropriate support if the bent position of the arm does not cause anoccasional contraction of the muscles. ) These two positions may justly beconsidered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improvedand elegant mode of riding at the present day. 

At an early period when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, theydressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horseswere in general use for many centuries before anything like a protectionfor the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matterof course, on a very simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said, which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn byman, which was a sort of sandal, made of leather and tied to the horse'sfoot, by means of straps or strings. And finally plates of metal werefastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means. 

Here again, as in the case of the sturrupless saddle, when we reflect thatmen should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates ofmetal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings, without its ever occurring to them to try so simple an improvement asnails, we have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by whichhorsemanship has reached its present state. 

In the forgoing remarks I have taken the liberty of extracting severalfacts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this shortcomment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement upto the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a newtheory of taming wild horses, which is the result of many experiments anda thorough investigation and trial of the different methods ofhorsemanship now in use. 

THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLESOF MY THEORY

Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse. 

FIRST. --That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offerresistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if madein a way consistent with the laws of his nature. 

SECOND. --That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond hisexperience, and can be handled according to our will, without force. 

THIRD. --That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which heexamines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful, around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him tofear. 

To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of thereasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offerresistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed ofsome faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, hasno knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government, and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonablethese impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decisionwhat he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoningfaculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If hehad, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be uselessto man as a servant. Give him _mind_ in proportion to his strength, and hewill demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roamat leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God has wisely formedhis nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of manaccording to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed anunconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in everyday's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses tobe so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops withfatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with therider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch hisrider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescendto carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal intellect, wastrying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? Buthappily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought ofdisobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law ofnature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man. 

Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in away at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that hefully comprehends without making any offer of resistance. 

_Second. _ The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of hisstrength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For instance, suchremarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar to your recollection. One person says to another, "If that wild horse there was conscious of theamount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in thatvehicle; such light reins and harness, too; if he knew he could snap themasunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe;" and, "thathorse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that isfast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain longfastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap thatwould no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than a cottonthread would bind a strong man. " Yet these facts made common by every dayoccurrence, are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorantman who looks at the different phases of the moon, you look at thesethings as he looks at her different changes, without troubling your mindwith the question, "Why are these things so?" What would be the conditionof the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think, reasonand act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not excel theimbecility of the brute; we would live in chaos, hardly aware of ourexistence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass byunobserved that which would be wonderful if philosophised and reasonedupon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which a littleconsideration, reason and philosophy would be but a simple affair. 

_Thirdly. _ He will allow any object, however frightful in appearance, tocome around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain. 

We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never been aneffected without a cause, and we infer from this, that there can be noaction, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there first beingsome cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact we know thatthere is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind ormatter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animalkingdom. Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause beforefear can exist; and, if fear exists from the effect of imagination, andnot from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying withthose laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and determinesupon its innocence or harm. 

A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of the horse, some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after you take him up to itand let him stand by it a little while, and touch it with his nose, and gothrough his process of examination, he will not care any thing more aboutit. And the same principle and process will have the same effect with anyother object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm. Take a boy that has been frightened by a false-face or any other objectthat he could not comprehend at once; but let him take that face or objectin his hands and examine it, and he will not care anything more about it. This is a demonstration of the same principle. 

With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall nextattempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whateverinstructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practicalby my own experiments. And knowing from experience just what obstacles Ihave met with in handling bad horses, I shall try to anticipate them foryou, and assist you in surmounting them, by commencing with the firststeps taken with the colt, and accompanying you through the whole task ofbreaking. 

HOW TO SUCCEED IN GETTING THE COLT FROM PASTURE. 

Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such adistance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then approach them veryslowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, holdon until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you areclose enough to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when youbegin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently followthem off leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take. Thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them inthe pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, ifthey have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do inprairie countries and on large plantations, ) there is no reason why theyshould not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentletreatment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse in hisnatural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though moreeasily tamed than most of them. 

HOW TO STABLE A COLT WITHOUT TROUBLE. 

The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This shouldbe done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in thehorse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead agentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk aroundthe colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible toget men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow andconsiderate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wildhorse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that "hastemakes waste;" that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble andperplexity. 

One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessaryto escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make twohours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, andentirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, andthat would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him;or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he willnot try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures. Ifhe does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in, do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, bygently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang atyour side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studiedanatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly athim. It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and ifhe gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he willsoon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk soclose around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to getfarther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut thedoor. This will be his first notion of confinement--not knowing how to getin such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietlyas possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, oranything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and lethim remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined hisapartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement. 

TIME TO REFLECT. 

And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the propertime to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on thebest mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highlyimportant that you should be governed by some system. And you should knowbefore you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and howyou are going to do it. And, if you are experienced in the art of tamingwild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the lengthof time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead. 

THE KIND OF HALTER. 

Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it willnot draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of theright size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band willnot be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken coltunder any circumstances whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt orkill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leatherhalters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. Itis almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter, without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger hislife; and I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try toget his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as itwould be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of therope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it, and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are alwaysmade) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life, until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throwhimself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the priceof a leather halter. But this is not the worst. A horse that has oncepulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has neverpulled at all. 

REMARKS ON THE HORSE. 

But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will give yousome of the characteristics of his nature, that you may better understandhis motions. Every one that has ever paid any attention to the horse, hasnoticed his natural inclination to smell of everything which to him looksnew and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything. And, when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply, they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, butmust touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied; and, assoon as this is done, all is right. 

EXPERIMENTS WITH THE ROBE. 

If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse, andlearn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature, etc. , turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will do, and thengather up something that you know will frighten him; a red blanket, buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it;he will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in thecenter of the lot or barn, and walk off to one side. Watch his motions, and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not restuntil he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walkaround the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as ifdrawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it. Hewill then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach, merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to flyat him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first(though he has been looking at it all the time) he seems to have an ideawhat it is. But now he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it isnothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it. And ifyou watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth, and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that hehas not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse bitingat some familiar stump. 

Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that hasfrightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And, in ninecases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild look about himagain, as he turns to walk from it. And you will, probably, see himlooking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought itmight come after him yet. And, in all probability, he will have to go backand make another examination before he is satisfied. But he willfamiliarize himself with it, and, if he should run in that lot a few days, the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him thana familiar stump. 

SUPPOSITIONS ON THE SENSE OF SMELLING. 

We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse's applying hisnose to every thing new to him, that he always does so for the purpose ofsmelling these objects. But I believe that it is as much or more for thepurpose of feeling; and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, (as it issometimes called. ) as we would of our hands; because it is the only organby which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility. 

I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing, hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which thesense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think that in theexperiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with hisnose was as much for the purpose of feeling, as anything else, his senseof smell being so keen, that it would not be necessary for him to touchhis nose against anything in order to get the proper scent; for it is saidthat a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile. And, if the scent ofthe robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off. But, we know from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe ashort distance from him, he is very much frightened, (unless he is used toit, ) until he touches or feels it with his nose; which is a positive proofthat feeling is the controlling sense in this case. 

PREVAILING OPINION OF HORSEMEN. 

It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense ofsmell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well as others, have, with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling oils, etc. , totame the horse, sometimes using the chesnut of his leg, which they dry, grind into powder and blow into his nostrils. Sometimes using the oil ofrhodium, organnnum, etc. ; that are noted for their strong smell. Andsometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blowtheir breath into his nostrils, etc. , etc. All of which, as far as thescent goes have no effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying anyidea to his mind; though the works that accompany these efforts--handlinghim, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they directyou should, after administering the articles, may have a very greateffect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. AndFaucher, in his work entitled, "The Arabian art of taming Horses, " page17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe, by administering certainarticles to his nose; and goes on to say, that these articles must firstbe applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him, in orderto operate successfully. 

Now, reader, can you, or any one else, give one single reason how scentcan convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do? If not, then of course strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming theunbroken horse. For every thing that we get him to do of his own accord, without force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideasto his mind. I say to my horse "go 'long" and he goes; "ho!" and he stops:because these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by the tapof the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accompanied them, conveythe two ideas to his mind of go and stop. 

Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing by themeans of a scent alone. 

How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell of a bottleof oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at yourbidding, "go yonder and bring your hat, " or "come here and lay down?" Thusyou see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means ofreceipts for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him, of any kindwhatever. 

The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to thebreaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true methodwhich takes them in their native state, and improves their intelligence. 

POWEL'S SYSTEM OF APPROACHING THE COLT. 

But, before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel's system ofapproaching a wild colt, as given by him in a work published in Europe, about the year 1811, on the "Art of taming wild horses. " He says, "A horseis gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen hours. " The time I havemost commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say:"Cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in astable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercisewith the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belong to that classwhich appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently intothe stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run fromyou, and frequently turn his head from you; but you must walk aboutextremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns hishead towards you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in aquarter of an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turningtowards me. 

"At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand towardshim, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watchinghis motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteenminutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the leastnoise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient init than that what nature put in it. " He says, "I have made use of certain, ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc. , todisguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to whichthe horse arrived in so short a time, was owing to these ingredients; butyou see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. Theimplicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves, becomes 'faith without works. ' And thus men remained always in doubtconcerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when youadvance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet. Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the sameslow and imperceptible manner. Take notice: if the horse stirs, stopwithout changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stirmore than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. Hegenerally keeps his eyes steadfast on you, until you get near enough totouch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly, and by degrees, your hand, and let it come in contact with that part justabove the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, (as manywill, ) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead, going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending withthe same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Nowlet the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead, descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you canhandle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner, making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse'sears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked uponas the helm that governs all the rest. 

"Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with thesame precautions, and in the same manner; observing always to augment theforce of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the sameon both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms withoutflinching. 

"Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the backof the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness returnimmediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with yourhands, and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, alwaysgaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens. The head, ears, neck and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back tothe root of the tail. 

"This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be dependedon that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidlyon that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin togive it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same timeyou continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, aswell as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it withthe greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in mosthorses; in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It nowremains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the head, handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc. , speaking now andthen to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, alwaysascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until youget to his feet. 

"Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or in anyother language you please; but let him hear the sound of your voice, whichat the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which Ihave always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot--'Livela pied'--'Alza el pie'--'Aron ton poda, ' etc. , at the same time lift hisfoot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and willhold his foot up at command. Then proceed to the hind feet and go on inthe same manner, and in a short time the horse will let you lift them andeven take them up in your arms. 

"All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely takingaway the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animalwith his master; as the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasurefrom this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a verymarked attachment to his keeper. "

REMARKS ON POWEL'S TREATMENT HOW TO GOVERN HORSES OF ANY KIND. 

These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses ofall kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt; but I have inserted ithere, because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching thehorse, and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaksonly of the kind that fear man. 

To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are theeasiest trained; for when we have a horse that is wild and lively, we cantrain him to our will in a very short time; for they are generally quickto learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are ofa stubborn or vicious disposition, and, although they are not wild, and donot require taming, in the sense it is generally understood, they are justas ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned justas much; and in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary thatthey should be made to fear their masters; for, in order to obtain perfectobedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto is_fear, love, and obey_; and we must have the fulfilment of the first twobefore we can expect the latter, and it is by our philosophy of creatingfear, love and confidence, that we govern to our will every kind of ahorse whatever. 

Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and to trainthem to our likings, we will always take with us, when we go into a stableto train a colt, a long switch whip, (whale-bone buggy whips is the best, )with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen and make a sharp report, which, if handled with dexterity, and rightly applied, accompanied with asharp, fierce word, will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of anyhorse. With this whip in your right hand, with the lash pointing backward, enter the stable alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, tohave any one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so asnot to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wildyou will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you; and nowis the time to use a little judgement. I would not want for myself, morethan half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt, andhave him running about in the stable after me; though I would advise a newbeginner to take more time, and not to be in too much of a hurry. If youhave but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length oftime you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colts, I wouldadvise you to take Mr. Powel's method at first, till you gentle him, whichhe says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish thesame, and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than onehour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the sameend. Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and letyour horse look at you a minute or two, and as soon as he is settled inone place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your righthanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent atthe elbow, with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too muchtowards his head or croop, so as not to make him move either forward orbackward, thus keeping your horse stationary, if he does move a littleforward or backward, step a little to the right or left very cautiously;this will keep him in one place, as you get very near him, draw a littleto his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach he willturn his head and smell at your hand, not that he has any preference foryour hand, but because that it is projecting, and is the nearest portionof your body to the horse. This all colts will do, and they will smell ofyour naked hand just as quick as they will of any thing that you can putin it, and with just as good an effect, however much some men havepreached the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent articlesfrom the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon as hetouches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed, always usinga very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, all ways rubbing theway the hair lays, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly aspossible. As you stand by his side you may find it more convenient to rubhis neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose, asrubbing his forehead. Favor every inclination of the horse to smell ortouch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of thiskind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with akind look, and pleasant word of some sort, such as: Ho! my little boy, ho!my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady! or something of that kind, constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady tone ofvoice; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of the face andvoice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger, prevails as youknow your own feelings; two of which, _fear and anger_, a good horseman_should never feel_. 

HOW TO PROCEED IF YOUR HORSE IS OF A STUBBORN DISPOSITION. 

If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or_mulish_ disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, orturns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that heshould have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it mightbe well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, prettyclose to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and thecrack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharpcut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back, the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner, more tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough toscare him, it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him, we only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever youdo, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always withoutanger. If you are going to scare him at all you must do it at once. Nevergo into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad andwill fight you; you had better not touch him at all, for you willestablish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred andill-will. It will do him no good but an injury, to strike a blow, unlessyou can scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip himwithout making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in thehorse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other hasdisappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will stand upstraight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress hima good deal more than you whipped him, then you will excite the twocontrolling passions of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fearand love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey. 

HOW TO HALTER AND LEAD THE COLT. 

As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in yourleft hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you havegentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him, you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, andreaching out very gently with the but end of it, rubbing him lightly onthe neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip bytaking it up in your hand, until you finally get close enough to put yourhands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end ofthe halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently; hewill let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take holdof that part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, andpass the long side, or that part which goes into the buckle, under hisneck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand, letting thefirst strap loose--the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you. Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that partwhich goes around it, then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle, and you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt youshould stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder onlytaking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, thenwith your hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise thehalter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about hisnose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you havethe halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the lengthof the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pullon the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on thehalter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull, or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing moretowards gentling him, than if you had the power to snub him right up, andhold him to one spot; because, he does not know any thing about hisstrength, and if you don't do any thing to make him pull, he will neverknow that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with thehalter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse, bytaking up the strap in your hand. 

As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, andstep up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some ideaabout leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull himafter you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He hasnothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady, gradual pull of the halter; and as soon as you have pulled him a step ortwo to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again, repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction, and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, forhe will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a fewtimes, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowingthat he has the power to resist your pulling; besides, you have handledhim so gently, that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress himwhen he comes up to you, and he likes that, and would just as leave followyou as not. And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turnhim out in a lot he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. Youshould lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out, opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and backagain, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make himjump, when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make himgo very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw, with yourleft hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding tohis mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead himabout as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when youfirst take him out; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frightenhim, and make him run. There should not even be any one standing near himto attract his attention, or scare him. If you are alone, and manage himright, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than itwould to manage a broke horse. 

HOW TO LEAD A COLT BY THE SIDE OF A BROKEN HORSE. 

If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as isoften the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable, attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse upalongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap aroundhis breast, under his martingale, (if he has any on, ) holding it in yourleft hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides, you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against thehorse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent himfrom running ahead; then turn him about a few times in the stable, and ifthe door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position; if not, takethe broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, thenlead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as before directed, one on each side of his neck, then let some one start the colt out, and ashe comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them allright. This is the best way to lead a colt; you can manage any kind of acolt in this way, without any trouble; for, if he tries to run ahead, orpull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so thatyou can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and assoon as he stops running backward you are right with him, and all ready togo ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can removeall his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thuscompelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned himabout a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, afteryou are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable, and hitchhim in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they areoften troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will giveyou some instructions about getting him in. 

HOW TO LEAD A COLT INTO THE STABLE AND HITCH HIM WITHOUT HAVING HIM PULLON THE HALTER. 

You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt, if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him, taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of thehalter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reachingover his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the oppositeside with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly withyour switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, bybeing pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead, and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction withyour left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked coltsinto the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked atthem half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him it atonce this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, untilyou can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him standa few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter, and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull thecolt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was adangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then. Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter. Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them intothe stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hillbusiness, when a plain smooth road is before them. 

If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall whichshould not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something ofthat kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in hecannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on thehalter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would beimpossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventinghim from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every timehe turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind you can break everyhorse to stand hitched by a light strap, any where, without his everknowing any thing about pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead, and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always dobefore you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of astall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a fewminutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on hishalter. 

THE KIND OF BIT AND HOW TO ACCUSTOM A HORSE TO IT. 

You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his mouth, with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling through eitherway. This you should attach to the head-stall of your bridle and put it onyour colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stableor shed, some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and willbear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, ifconvenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more withthe colt; as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it, without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or abridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that youcan hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He is nowready for the saddle. 

HOW TO SADDLE A COLT. 

Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest coltthat ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thingwill be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot to make them short, and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double upthe skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frightenhim with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a fewtimes with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until he cansee it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose, and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting himhear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him; each timegetting a little farther backward, and finally slip it over his shoulderson his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than fiveminutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, andpull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention toit. 

As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Becareful how you do this. It often frightens a Colt when he feels the girthbinding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bringup the girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just enoughto hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight asyou choose, and he will not mind it. 

You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put iton, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant tohis back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it toflap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take aswitch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stablea few times with your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reinson each side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marchinghim about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and canturn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of therein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stophim. 

You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight stable orshed, the first time you ride him; the loft should be high so that you cansit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more intwo hours time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks inthe common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. It you follow mycourse of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble inriding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until youget up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. Firstlearn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the saddle, and the use of the bit; and then all that remains, is to get on himwithout scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse. 

HOW TO MOUNT THE COLT. 

First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all over, until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see youany where about him. 

As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot oreighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about whereyou want to stand to mount him; step up on this, raising yourself verygently; horses notice every change of position very closely, and if youwere to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him;but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you, without beingfrightened, in a position very near the same as when you are on his back. 

As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap nextto you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it, holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch himunder the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on thefront of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of aportion of the mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck withyour left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and onyour right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the saddle;repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher fromthe block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croop, andplace yourself in the saddle. 

There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, asudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that hasnever been handled; he will allow you to walk up to him, and stand by hisside without scaring at you, because you have gentled him to thatposition, but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towardshim, he will be very much frightened, and upon the same principle, hewould frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourselfover his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of theblock is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will seeyou when you ride him. 

Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups, and onyour hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not tofrighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place theblock elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order toget on to the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourselfinto the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse sowild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried iton the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in anycase. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. Ahorse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein whilemounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount, as when you see thatassurance of confidence, and absence of fear, which causes him to standwithout holding. 

HOW TO RIDE THE COLT. 

When you want him to start do not touch him on the side with your heel ordo anything to frighten him and make him jump. But speak to him kindly, and if he does not start pull him a little to the left until he starts, and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around inthe stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn himabout in every direction and stop him as you please. It would be well toget on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it beforeyou take him out of the stable. 

After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you morethan one or two hours, you can ride him any where you choose without everhaving him jump or make any effort to throw you. 

When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with him, as hewill feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easierfrightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling him so muchin the stable he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to managehim without trouble or danger. 

When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the left rein, so that if any thing frightens him you can prevent him jumping by pullinghis head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head aroundagainst his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, orrunning away. If he is stubborn and will not go you can make him move bypulling his head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect. And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then byletting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with thewhip, he will go along without any trouble. 

Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him; every movement ofthe hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it isapplied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of theforce applied. You can guide the colt much better without them, and learnhim the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales wouldprevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump. 

After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accustomed tothe bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high, orhis nose too far out, to put martingales on him. 

You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat, worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued;gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to you and preventhim from getting stubborn or mad. 

THE PROPER WAY TO BIT A COLT. 

Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do tohim, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make himcarry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a half day at atime. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on thecolt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running inpasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way thatthey never got over it. 

A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bittingharness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up tothat point where he naturally holds it, let that be high or low; he willsoon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a littlewill loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raisinghis head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a littletighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head toloosen it; by this means you will gradually get his head and neck in theposition you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and gracefulcarriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to getsore. 

If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot raise hishead enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time, and paw, sweatand throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward withthe bitting on, their heads being drawn up, strike the ground with thewhole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightlyshould not have the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at atime. 

HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT IS VERY WILD, AND HAS ANY VICIOUS HABIT

Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards, and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up untilit comes above the pasture joint to keep it up, being careful to draw theloop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap ofsome kind, to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. Thiswill leave the horse standing on three legs; you can now handle him as youwish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position. There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers ahorse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him. There isno process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, for severalreasons. First, there is a principle of this kind in the nature of thehorse; that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent thewhole horse. 

You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse'sears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in anewspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod, which was to fasten downone ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so; but I tried itseveral times, and thought it had a good effect--though I would notrecommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The onlybenefit arising from this process is, that by disarranging his ears wedraw his attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. Bytying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much bettereffect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get verymad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down;but he cannot do that, and will soon give it up. 

This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and without anypossible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up hisfoot and sit down and look at him until he gives up. When you find that heis conquered, go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand, caress him and let him rest a little, then put it up again. Repeat this afew times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn totravel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon ashe gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness andhitch him to a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised afoot you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one footup, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. Andif he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on, and has run awayevery time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him in a sulky and drivehim as you please. And if he wants to run you can let him have the lines, and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait onthree legs, and will soon be tired and willing to stop; only hold himenough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired andwilling to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him at once ofany further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been thedread of every body; you always hear men say, when they speak about a badhorse, "I don't care what he does, so he don't kick. " This new method isan effectual cure for this worst of all habits. There are plenty of waysby which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though hekicks all the time; but this don't have any good effect towards breakinghim, for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what isbehind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them they willonly kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more and make themremember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult topersuade them to have any confidence in any thing dragging behind themever after. 

But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow, wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened atfirst, but cannot kick or do any thing to hurt themselves, and will soonfind that you do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care anything more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gentlywithout any farther trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse canbe learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time. 

ON BALKING. 

Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it byimproper management, and when a horse balks in harness it is generallyfrom some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how topull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that heunderstands. High spirited, free going horses are the most subject tobalking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how tomanage this kind. A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go that whenhe hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the load, but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back andstop the other horse; the teamster will continue his driving without anycessation, and by the time he has the slow horse started again he willfind that the free horse has made another jump, and again flew back, andnow he has them both badly balked, and so confused that neither of themknows what is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come theslashing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, tillsomething is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. Butwhat a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act. Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing andanxious to go, but did not know how to start the load. And should he whiphim for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk. A man that wants to act with any rationality or reason should not fly intoa passion, but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steadypressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect him toact with a steady, determined purpose while you are whipping him. There ishardly one balking horse in five hundred that will pull true fromwhipping; it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make them more liableto balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a fewtimes, turn their heads and look back, as soon as they are a littlefrustrated. This is because they have been whipped and are afraid of whatis behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just asmuch as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have thebots; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and the samekind, rational treatment. 

When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to startquickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong, and needs kind he treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if hedon't understand at once what you want him to do he will not be so muchexcited as to jump and break things, and do everything wrong through fear. As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse, there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not beone under harsh treatment, and then the little _flare up_ would not carrywith it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all aboutit, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits isfrom mismanagement, fear or excitement; one harsh word will so excite anervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute. 

When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and reflect howdifficult it must be for them to understand our motions, signs andlanguage, we should never get out of patience with them because they don'tunderstand us, or wonder at their doing things wrong. With all ourintellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would bedifficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, of foreignways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our ways andlanguage are just as foreign and unknown to the horse as any language inthe world is to us, and should try to practice what we could understand, were we the horse, endeavoring by some simple means to work on hisunderstanding rather than on the different parts of his body. All balkedhorses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time; they are allwilling to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balkedhorse that I could not teach him to start his load in fifteen, and oftenless than three minutes time. 

Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let themstand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and thenspeak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right orleft, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of theload. But if you want to start a team that you are not driving yourself, that has been balked, fooled and whipped for some time, go to them andhang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that theywill be perfectly loose; make the driver and spectators (if there is any)stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention ofthe horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their headsdown, if they choose; let them stand a few minutes in this condition, until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standingyou should be about their heads, gentling them; it will make them a littlemore kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something thatthey do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have themready to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balkyhorse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is toofast for the other horse, let his nose come against your breast; this willkeep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you; turn themgently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces, as far asthe tongue will let them go; stop them with a kind word, gentle them alittle, and then turn them back to the left, by the same process. You willhave them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again tothe right, steady them in the collar, and you can take them where youplease. 

There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, butnot so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his shoulders will beagainst the collar, and then take up one of his fore feet in your hand, and let the driver start them, and when the weight comes against hisshoulders, he will try to step; then let him have his foot, and he will goright along. If you want to break a horse from balking that has long beenin that habit, you ought to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put himby the side of some steady horse; have check lines on them; tie up all thetraces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do notrein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them abouttogether for some time as slowly and lazily as possible; stop often, andgo up to your balky horse and gentle him. Do not take any whip about him, or do any thing to excite him, but keep him just as quiet as you can. Hewill soon learn to start off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him. 

As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon; have it standin a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the staychain behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take theweight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a fewrods at first; watch your balky horse closely, and if you see that he isgetting balky, stop him before he stops of his own accord, caress him alittle, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a smallhill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a littleload. This process will make any horse true to pull. 

TO BREAK A HORSE TO HARNESS. 

Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the harness andgo through the same process that you did with the saddle, until you gethim familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle themabout without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear this, put onthe lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about inthe stable till he will bear them over his hips. The _lines_ are a greataggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you wereto raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness andline, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse, and gothrough the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use abridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness. 

HOW TO HITCH A HORSE IN A SULKY. 

Lead him to and around it; let him look at it, touch it with his nose, andstand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the shafts a little tothe left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some onestand on the right side of the horse, and hold him by the bit, while youstand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Runyour left hand back and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shaftswith your right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, whichstill remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his back, and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the person on theopposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on theshaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching; the longer timeyou take, the better, as a general thing. When you have the shafts placed, shake them slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soonas he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc. , and starthim along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle, while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behindand drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, youcan get into the sulky, and all will go right. It is very important tohave your horse go gently, when you first hitch him. After you have walkedhim awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do verywrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have himhitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once. Theshafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend toscare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If yourhorse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first timeyou drive him. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN. 

Every thing that we want to learn the horse must be commenced in some wayto give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated tillhe learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore leg, and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put acircingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around theother fore leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under thecircingle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand; stand on the leftside of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on thestrap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him tomove. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the otherfoot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in yourhand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him inhis position, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side withyour shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure, and in aboutten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will becompletely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off thestraps, and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face andneck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and afterhe has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting hima short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three orfour times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessonsa day, and when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down bytaking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie down in thisway, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of hisfoot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of thestick. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU. 

Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out, with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take holdof his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching himlightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable, rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him, COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every timeyou turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close toyou, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up toescape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you aroundwithout taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you, give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his headtoward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kindwill make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip--intwenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After youhave given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into asmall lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the roadand make him follow you anywhere, and run after you. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE STAND WITHOUT HOLDING. 

After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center ofthe stable--begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward. If he move, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spotfrom which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continuegentling him in this way until you can get round him without making himmove. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch himoccasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around and if he then moves, give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If hestands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around himagain. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make himcome to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable. Then standhim in another place, and proceed as before. You should not train yourhorse more than half an hour at a time. 

THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE

AND

FARRIER. 

BY JOHN J. STUTZMAN, WEST RUSHVILLE, FAIRFIELD COUNTY, OHIO. 

I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to whichthe horse is subject. I have practised them for many years withunparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies, which, (in many cases, ) have been given up in despair, and I never had acase in which I did not effect a cure. 

CURE FOR COLIC. 

Take 1 gill of turpentine, 1 gill of opium dissolved in whisky; 1 quart ofwater, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him about slowly. If there isno relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk, about the size of anegg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should beblood warm, give that, and then move him as before. 

ANOTHER. --Take 1 ounce laudanum, 1 ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture ofassafoetida, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky; put allin a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse. 

CURE FOR THE BOTS. 

Take 1-1/2 pint of fresh milk, (just from the cow, ) 1 pint of molasses. Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth; then give him 1 pint oflinseed oil to remove them. 

FOR DISTEMPER. 

Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make pills about the sizeof a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until they physic him;then give him one table spoonful of the horse powder mentioned before, once a day, until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours afterusing the powder. 

LONG FEVER. 

In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre, in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep himwell covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister himaround the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water, unless there is spirits of nitre in it. 

RHEUMATIC LINIMENT. 

Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f. F. F; oil of cajuput, oil of origanum, inequal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back. 

CUTS AND WOUNDS OF ALL KINDS. 

One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum of myrrh, half ounce aloes, washonce a day. 

SPRAINS AND SWELLINGS. 

Take 1-1/2 ounces of harts-horn, 1 ounce camphor, 2 ounces spirits ofturpentine, 4 ounces sweet oil, 8 ounces alcohol. Anoint twice a day. 

FOR GLANDERS. 

Take of burnt buck's horn a table spoonful, every three days for ninedays. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until thereis relief. 

SADDLE OR COLLAR LINIMENT. 

One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounceessence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half ounce gum camphor, halfounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash freely. 

LINIMENT TO SET THE STIFLE JOINT ON A HORSE. 

One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shakeit well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in twoor three days. 

EYE WATER. 

I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have triedit on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna 1 ounce, whitevitrol 1 ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water: shake itwell before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water. 

LINIMENT FOR WINDGALLS, STRAINS AND GROWTH OF LUMPS ON MAN OR HORSE. 

One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortisand sal amoniac 1 drachm, spirits of salts 1 drachm oil of sassafras halfounce, harts-horn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day. 

HORSE POWDER. 

This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known; such asDistemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering diseases which mayarise from impurity of the blood or lungs. --Take 1 lb. Comfrey root, halflb. Antimony, half lb. Sulphur, 3 oz. Of saltpetre, half lb. Laurelberries, half lb. Juniper berries, half lb. Angetice seed, half lb. Rosin, 3 oz. Alum, half lb. Copperas, half lb. Master wort, half lb. Gun powder. Mix all to a powder and give in the most cases, one table spoonful in mashfeed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry, and keep him from the coldwater six hours after using it. 

FOR CUTS OR WOUNDS ON HORSE OR MAN. 

Take fishworms mashed up with old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, whichis the surest and safest cure. 

OIL FOR COLLARS. 

This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Takefishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours, till theybecome clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt uponthem, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the partsaffected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently. 

SORE AND SCUMMED EYES ON HORSES. 

Take fresh butter or rabbit's fat, honey, and the white of three eggs, well stirred up with salt, and black pepper ground to a fine powder; mixit well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye (inthe hollow, ) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water. 

FOR A BRUISED EYE. 

Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe freely with freshspring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this simple remedy. 

POLL-EVIL OR FISTULA. 

Take of Spanish flies 1 oz. , gum euphorbium 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1oz. , rosin 3 oz. ; mix and pulverize, and then mix them with a half lb. Oflard. Anoint every three days for three weeks; grease the parts affectedwith lard every four days. Wash with soap and water before using thesalve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black bottle glass, put as much ineach ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended in outsidecallous, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls, etc. Etc. 

FOR THE FERSEY. 

Take 1 quart of sassafras root bark, 1 quart burdock root, spice woodbroke fine, 1 pint rattle weed root. Boil in 1-1/2 gallons of water; scaldbran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for 3 or 4 days. Thenbleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed. Inextreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to extract thecorruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy forblood diseases, etc. , etc. 

TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW ON MAN OR BEAST. 

Take milk of sulphur 1/2 drachm, sugar of lead 1/2 drachm, rose water 1/2gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days. 

CHOLERA OR DIARRHEA TINCTURE. 

1 oz. Of laudanum, 1 oz. Of spirits of camphor, 1 oz. Spirits of nitre, 1/2 oz. Essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform; put all in abottle, shake well, and take 1/2 teaspoonful in cold water once every six, twelve and twenty-four hours, according to the nature of the case. 

CURE FOR THE HEAVES. 

Give 30 grains of tartar emetic every week until cured. 

PROCESS OF CAUSING A HORSE TO LAY DOWN. 

Approach him gently upon the left side, fasten a strap around the ancle ofhis fore-foot; then raise the foot gently, so as to bring the knee againstthe breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position, fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectually prevent him fromputting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around theopposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so thatyou can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes tofall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees. 

Now commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentlestrokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his kneesbehind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submithimself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you mayhandle his feet and legs in any way you choose. 

However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practicing thisprocess a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive, and even disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you onany occasion. 

Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient; butshould he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary toperform the first named operation, this you will find effectual, and youmay then train your horse to harness or anything else with the utmostease. 

In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harnesson gently, without startling him, and pat him gently, then fasten _thechain_ to a log, which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. Whenyou find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle. 

NOTE. --Be _extremely_ careful in catching a horse, not to affright him. After he is caught, and the powders given, rub him gently on the head, neck, back and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies, but be very careful not to whip, for a young horse is equally passionatewith yourself, and this pernicious practice has ruined many fine andvaluable horses. When you are riding a colt (or even an old horse), do notwhip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest uponthe object which has affrighted him, and pat him upon the neck as youapproach it; by this means you will pacify him, and render him less liableto start in future. 

MEANS OF LEARNING A HORSE TO PACE. 

Buckle a four pound weight around the ancles of his hind legs, (lead ispreferable) ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ancles, atthe same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by thismeans you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trainedhim in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for somethinglighter; leather padding, or something equal to it, will answer thepurpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained. This process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse. 

HORSEMANSHIP. 

The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know that he is notafraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand, draw it tightly, put the left foot in the stirrup, and raise quickly. Whenyou are seated press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from theknee, stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in yoursaddle, throw your weight forward--one third of it in the stirrups--andhold your rein tight. Should your horse scare, you are braced in yoursaddle and he cannot throw you. 

INDICATION OF A HORSE'S DISPOSITION. 

A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition, contrariwise, if it beshort and thick. A broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a veryvicious disposition. 

CURES, &C. 

_Cure for the Founder. _--Let 1-1/2 gallons of blood from the neck vein, make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs; after which, bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart Linseed Oil. The horse willbe ready for service the next day. 

_Botts. _--Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk, give as a drench, one hour after, dissolve 1 oz. Pulverized Coperas in a pint of water, uselikewise, then give one quart of Linseed Oil. Cure effectual. 

_Colic. _--After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of rawcotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air;when it begins to smoke, hold it under the horse's nose until he becomeseasy. Cure certain in ten minutes. 

_Distemper. _--Take 1-1/2 gallons blood from the neck vein, then give adose of Sassafras Oil, 1-1/2 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy andcertain. 

_Fistula. _--When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of theshoulder; if it should break, take one ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce oilrosin, 1 ounce copperas, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve. 

RECEIPT FOR BONE SPAVIN OR RING-BONE. 

Take a table-spoonful of corrosive sublimate; quicksilver about the sizeof a bean; 3 or 4 drops of muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea, and lard enough to form a paste; grind the iodine and sublimate fine asflour, and put altogether in a cup, mix well, then shear the hair all offthe size you want; wash clean with soap-suds, rub dry, then apply themedicine. Let it stay on five days; if it does not take effect, take itoff, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medicine. When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap-suds, then apply a poulticeof cow dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine. 

TEMPERANCE BEVERAGE. 

One quart of water, three pounds of sugar, one teaspoonful of lemon oil, one table-spoonful of flour, with the white of four eggs, well beat up. Mix the above well together, then divide the syrup, and add four ounces ofcarbonic soda in one-half, and three ounces of tartaric acid in the otherhalf; then bottle for use. 

SARSAPARILLA SYRUP. 

One ounce Sarsaparilla, two pounds brown sugar, ten drops wintergreen, andhalf pint of water. 

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_The attention of Lecturers and Book Agents is especially called to thiswork as being likely to give more satisfaction to the thoughtful andinquiring reader than almost and other they could introduce. _