Production Notes: --Words in italics have been capitalised. --45 illustrations appeared in the original text, published in 1898. They have not been reproduced in this etext. (See below for list) --A HTML version of this etext is available from Project Gutenberg which includes many of the illustrations

SPINIFEX AND SAND by DAVID W CARNEGIE (1871-1900)

A NARRATIVE OF FIVE YEARS' PIONEERING AND EXPLORATIONIN WESTERN AUSTRALIA

TOMY MOTHER

INTRODUCTION

"An honest tale speeds best, being plainly told. "

The following pages profess to be no more than a faithful narrative offive years spent on the goldfields and in the far interior of WesternAustralia. Any one looking for stirring adventures, hairbreadth escapesfrom wild animals and men, will be disappointed. In the Australian Bushthe traveller has only Nature to war against--over him hangs always thechance of death from thirst, and sometimes from the attacks of hostileaboriginals; he has no spice of adventure, no record heads of rare game, no exciting escapades with dangerous beasts, to spur him on; no beautifulscenery, broad lakes, or winding rivers to make life pleasant for him. The unbroken monotony of an arid, uninteresting country has to be faced. Nature everywhere demands his toil. Unless he has within him impulses thatgive him courage to go on, he will soon return; for he will find nothingin his surroundings to act as an incentive to tempt him further. 

I trust my readers will be able to glean a little knowledge of thehardships and dangers that beset the paths of Australian pioneers, andwill learn something of the trials and difficulties encountered by aprospector, recognising that he is often inspired by some higher feelingthan the mere "lust of gold. "

Wherever possible, I have endeavoured to add interest to my ownexperiences by recounting those of other travellers; and, by studying thefew books that touch upon such matters to explain any points in connectionwith the aboriginals that from my own knowledge I am unable to do. I oweseveral interesting details to the "Report on the Work of the HornScientific Expedition to Central Australia, " and to "Ethnological Studiesamong the North-West Central Queensland Aboriginals, " by Walter E. Roth. For the identification of the few geological specimens brought in by me, I am indebted to the Government Geologist of the Mines Department, Perth, W. A. , and to Mr. W. Botting Hemsley, through the courtesy of theDirector of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for the identification of the plants. 

I also owe many thanks to my friend Mr. J. F. Cornish, who has taken somuch trouble in correcting the proofs of my MSS. 

CONTENTS

PART I

EARLY DAYS IN COOLGARDIE

CHAPTER I EARLY DAYS IN THE COLONYCHAPTER II "HARD UP"CHAPTER III A MINER ON BAYLEY'S

PART II

FIRST PROSPECTING EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I THE RUSH TO KURNALPI--WE REACH QUEEN VICTORIA SPRINGCHAPTER II IN UNKNOWN COUNTRYCHAPTER III FROM MOUNT SHENTON TO MOUNT MARGARET

PART III

SECOND PROSPECTING EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I THE JOYS OF PORTABLE CONDENSERSCHAPTER II GRANITE ROCKS, "NAMMA HOLES, " AND "SOAKS"CHAPTER III A FRESH STARTCHAPTER IV A CAMEL FIGHTCHAPTER V GOLD AT LAKE DARLOTCHATTER VI ALONE IN THE BUSHCHAPTER VII SALE OF MINE

PART IV

MINING

CHAPTER I QUARTZ REEFING AND DRY-BLOWING

PART V

THE OUTWARD JOURNEY

CHAPTER I PREVIOUS EXPLORERS IN THE INTERIOR OF WESTERN AUSTRALIACHAPTER II MEMBERS AND EQUIPMENT OF EXPEDITIONCHAPTER III THE JOURNEY BEGINSCHAPTER IV WE ENTER THE DESERTCHAPTER V WATER AT LASTCHAPTER VI WOODHOUSE LAGOONCHAPTER VII THE GREAT UNDULATING DESERT OF GRAVELCHAPTER VIII A DESERT TRIBECHAPTER IX DR. LEICHARDT'S LOST EXPEDITIONCHAPTER X THE DESERT OF PARALLEL SAND-RIDGESCHAPTER XI FROM FAMILY WELL TO HELENA SPRINGCHAPTER XII HELENA SPRINGCHAPTER XIII FROM HELENA SPRING TO THE SOUTHESK TABLELANDS. CHAPTER XIV DEATH OF STANSMORECHAPTER XV WELLS EXPLORING EXPEDITIONCHAPTER XVI KIMBERLEYCHAPTER XVII ABORIGINALS AT HALL'S CREEKCHAPTER XVIII PREPARATIONS FOR THE RETURN JOURNEYAPPENDIXTO PART V SOME NATIVE WEAPONS AND CEREMONIAL IMPLEMENTS

PART VI

THE JOURNEY HOME

CHAPTER I RETURN JOURNEY BEGINSCHAPTER II STURT CREEK AND "GREGORY'S SALT SEA"CHAPTER III OUR CAMP ON THE "SALT SEA"CHAPTER IV DESERT ONCE MORECHAPTER V STANSMORE RANGE TO LAKE MACDONALDCHAPTER VI LAKE MACDONALD TO THE DEEP ROCK-HOLESCHAPTER VII THE LAST OF THE RIDGES OF DRIFT SANDCHAPTER VIII WOODHOUSE LAGOON REVISITEDCHAPTER IX ACROSS LAKE WELLS TO LAKE DARLOTCHAPTER X THE END OF THE EXPEDITION

APPENDIX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

(45 illustrations appeared in the original text, published in 1898. They have not been reproduced in this etext. )

HON. D. W. CARNEGIEJARRAH FOREST, WEST AUSTRALIAGENERAL STORE AND POST-OFFICE, COOLGARDIE, 1892THE FIRST HOTEL AT COOLGARDIETHE "GOLD ESCORT"GRASS TREES, NEAR PERTHDEATH OF "TOMMY"FRESH MEAT AT LASTBAYLEY STREET, COOLGARDIE, 1894CONDENSING WATER ON A SALT LAKEFEVER-STRICKEN AND ALONEMINER'S RIGHTTYPICAL SANDSTONE GORGECROSSING A SALT LAKEENTRANCE TO EMPRESS SPRINGAT WORK IN THE CAVE, EMPRESS SPRINGALEXANDER SPRINGWOODHOUSE LAGOONA BUCK AND HIS GINS IN CAMP AT FAMILY WELLCRESTING A SAND-RIDGEHELENA SPRINGTHE ONLY SPECIMEN OF DESERT ARCHITECTURETHE MAD BUCKSOUTHESK TABLELANDSA NATIVE HUNTING PARTYPLAN OF SAND-RIDGESEXAGGERATED SECTION OF THE SAND-RIDGESCHARLES W. STANSMORENATIVE PREPARING FOR THE EMU DANCESPEARSTOMAHAWKSBOOMERANGSCLUBS AND THROWING-STICKSSHIELDSQUARTZ KNIFECEREMONIAL STICKSRAIN-MAKING BOARDSMESSAGE STICKSGROUP OF EXPLORERSJUST IN TIMEA WILD ESCORT OF NEARLY ONE HUNDRED MENESTABLISHING FRIENDLY RELATIONSTHE TAIL-END OF A MISERABLE CARAVANA KARRI TIMBER TRAINA PEARL SHELL STATION, BROOME, N. W. AUSTRALIA

* * * * * * * * * *

PART I EARLY DAYS IN COOLGARDIE

CHAPTER I

EARLY DAYS IN THE COLONY

In the month of September, 1892, Lord Percy Douglas (now Lord Douglas ofHawick) and I, found ourselves steaming into King George's Sound--thatmagnificent harbour on the south-west coast of Western Australia--buildingcastles in the air, discussing our prospects, and making rapid and vastimaginary fortunes in the gold-mines of that newly-discovered land ofOphir. Coolgardie, a district then unnamed, had been discovered, andArthur Bayley, a persevering and lucky prospector, had returned tocivilised parts from the "bush, " his packhorses loaded with goldenspecimens from the famous mine which bears his name. I suppose thefortunate find of Bayley and his mate, Ford, has turned the course ofevents in the lives of many tens of thousands of people, and yet, as hejogged along the track from Gnarlbine Rock to Southern Cross, I daresayhis thoughts reverted to his own life, and the good time before him, rather than to moralising on the probable effect of his discovery onothers. 

We spent as little time as possible at Albany, or, I should say, made ourstay as short as was permitted, for in those days the convenience of thepassenger was thought little of, in comparison with the encouragement oflocal industries, so that mails and travellers alike were forced to remainat least one night in Albany by the arrangement of the train service, greatly to the benefit of the hotel-keepers. 

We were somewhat surprised to see the landlord's daughters waiting attable. They were such tremendously smart and icy young ladies that atfirst we were likely to mistake them for guests; and even when sure oftheir identity we were too nervous to ask for anything so vulgar as a potof beer, or to expect them to change our plates. 

Between Albany and Perth the country is not at all interesting being forthe most part flat, scrubby, and sandy, though here and there are richfarming and agricultural districts. Arrived at Perth we found ourselves asource of great interest to the inhabitants, inasmuch as we announced ourintention of making our way to the goldfields, while we had neither themeans nor apparently the capability of getting there. Though treated withgreat hospitality, we found it almost impossible to get any informationor assistance, all our inquiries being answered by some scoffing remark, such as, "Oh, you'll never get there!"

We attended a rather remarkable dinner--given in honour of the Boot, Shoe, Harness, and Leather trade, at the invitation of a fellow-countryman inthe trade, and enjoyed ourselves immensely; speech-making andtoast-drinking being carried out in the extensive style so customary inthe West. Picture our surprise on receiving a bill for 10s. 6d. Nextmorning! Our friend of the dinner, kindly put at our disposal a hansomcab which he owned, but this luxury we declined with thanks, fearing arepetition of his "bill-by-invitation. "

Owing to the extreme kindness of Mr. Robert Smith we were at last enabledto get under way for the scene of the "rush. " Disregarding the many offersof men willing to guide us along a self-evident track, we started with oneriding and one packhorse each. These and the contents of the pack-bagsrepresented all our worldly possessions, but in this we might countourselves lucky, for many hundreds had to carry their belongings on theirbacks--"humping their bluey, " as the expression is. 

Our road lay through Northam, and the several small farms and settlementswhich extend some distance eastward. Very few used this track, the morepopular and direct route being through York, and thence along thetelegraph line to Southern Cross; and indeed we did pass through York, which thriving little town we left at dusk, and, carrying out ourdirections, rode along the telegraph line. Unfortunately we had not beentold that the line split up, one branch going to Northam and the other toSouthern Cross; as often happens in such cases, we took the wrong branchand travelled well into the night before finding any habitation at whichwe could get food and water. 

The owner of the house where we finally stopped did not look upon ourvisit with pleasure, as we had literally to break into the house before wecould attract any attention. Finding we were not burglars, and havingrelieved himself by most vigorous and pictorial language (in the use ofwhich the teamsters and small farmers are almost without rivals) the ownershowed us his well, and did what he could to make us comfortable. I shallnever forget the great hospitality here along this road, though no doubtas time went on the settlers could not afford to house hungry travellersfree of cost, and probably made a fair amount of money by sellingprovisions and horse-feed to the hundreds of gold-fever patients who werecontinually passing. 

Southern Cross, which came into existence about the year '90, was a prettybusy place, being the last outpost of civilisation at the time of ourfirst acquaintance with it. The now familiar corrugated-iron-built town, with its streets inches deep in dust under a blazing sun, its incessantswarms of flies, the clashing of the "stamps" on the mines, and thegeneral "never-never" appearance of the place, impressed us with feelingsthe reverse of pleasant. The building that struck me most was the bank--asmall iron shanty with a hession partition dividing it into office andliving room, the latter a hopeless chaos of cards, candle ends, whiskeybottles, blankets, safe keys, gold specimens, and cooking utensils. Thebank manager had evidently been entertaining a little party of friends theprevious night, and though its hours had passed, and a new day had dawned, the party still continued. Since that time it has been my lot to witnessmore than one such evening of festivity!

On leaving Southern Cross we travelled with another company ofadventurers, one of whom, Mr. Davies, an old Queensland squatter, was ourpartner in several subsequent undertakings. 

The monotony of the flat timber-clad country was occasionally relieved bythe occurrence of large isolated hills of bare granite. But for these theroad, except for camels, could never have been kept open; for theyrepresented our sources of water supply. On the surface of the rocksnumerous holes and indentations are found, which after rain, hold water, and besides these, around the foot of the outcrops, "soaks, " or shallowwells, are to be found. 

What scenes of bitter quarrels these watering-places have witnessed!The selfish striving, each to help himself, the awful sufferings of manand beast, horses and camels mad with thirst, and men cursing the countryand themselves, for wasting their lives and strength in it; but they havewitnessed many an act of kindness and self-denial too. 

Where the now prosperous and busy town of Coolgardie stands, with itsstone and brick buildings, banks, hotels, and streets of shops, offices, and dwelling-houses, with a population of some 15, 000, at the time ofwhich I write there stood an open forest of eucalyptus dotted here andthere with the white tents and camps of diggers. A part of the timber hadalready been cleared to admit of "dry-blowing" operations--a processadopted for the separation of gold from alluvial soil in the waterlessparts of Australia. 

Desperate hard work this, with the thermometer at 100 degrees in theshade, with the "dishes" so hot that they had often to be put aside tocool, with clouds of choking dust, a burning throat, and water at ashilling to half a crown a gallon! Right enough for the lucky ones"on gold, " and for them not a life of ease! The poor devil with neithermoney nor luck, who looked into each dishful of dirt for the wherewithalto live, and found it not, was indeed scarcely to be envied. 

Water at this time was carted by horse-teams in waggons with large tankson board, or by camel caravans, from a distance of thirty-six miles, drawnfrom a well near a large granite rock. The supply was daily failing, andwashing was out of the question; enough to drink was all one thought of;two lines of eager men on either side of the track could daily be seenwaiting for these water-carts. What a wild rush ensued when they weresighted! In a moment they were surrounded and taken by storm, men swarmingon to them like an army of ants. As a rule, eager as we were for water, a sort of order prevailed, and every man got his gallon water-bag filleduntil the supply was exhausted. And generally the owner of the waterreceived due payment. 

About Christmas-time the water-famine was at its height. Notices wereposted by order of the Warden, proclaiming that the road to or fromCoolgardie would soon be closed, as all wells were failing, and advisingmen to go down in small parties, and not to rush the waters in a greatcrowd. This advice was not taken, and daily scores of men left the"field, " and many were hard put to it to reach Southern Cross. It was acruel sight in those thirsty days to see the poor horses wandering about, mere walking skeletons, deserted by their owners, for strangers were bothunable to give them water, and afraid to put them out of their misery lestdamages should be claimed against them. How long our own supplies wouldlast was eagerly discussed, as we gathered round the butcher's shop, thegreat meeting-place, to which, in the evenings, most of the camp wouldcome to talk over the affairs of the day. 

Postmaster, as well as butcher and storekeeper, was Mr. Benstead, a kind-hearted, hard-working man, and a good friend to us in our earlystruggles. What a wonderful post-office it was too! A proper match for theso-called coach that brought the mails. A very dilapidated buckboard-buggydrawn by equally dilapidated horses, used to do the journey from theSouthern Cross to the new fields very nearly as quickly as a loaded waggonwith eight or ten horses! The mail-coach used to carry not only letters, papers, and gold on the return journey, but passengers, who served theuseful purposes of dragging the carriage through the sand and dust whenthe horses collapsed, of hunting up the team in the mornings, and oflightening the load by walking. For this exceedingly comfortable journeythey had the pleasure of paying at least five pounds. It was no uncommonsight at some tank or rock on the road, to see the mail-coach standingalone in its glory, deserted by driver and passengers alike. Of these somewould be horse-hunting, and the rest tramping ahead in hope of beingcaught up by the coach. There would often be on board many hundred pounds'worth of gold, sent down by the diggers to be banked, or forwarded totheir families; yet no instance of robbing the mail occurred. The sort ofgentry from whom bushrangers and thieves are made, had not yet found theirway to the rush. 

Many banks were failing at that time, and men anxiously awaited thearrival of news. The teamsters, with their heavy drays, would be eagerlyquestioned as to where they had passed Her Majesty's mail, and as to theprobability of its arrival within the next week or so! The distribution ofletters did not follow this happy event with great rapidity. Volunteershad to be called in to sort the delivery, the papers were thrown into aheap in the road, and all anxious for news were politely requested to helpthemselves. Several illustrated periodicals were regularly sent me fromhome, as I learnt afterwards, but I never had the luck to drop across myown paper!

On mail day, the date of which was most uncertain as the coach journeyssoon overlapped, there was always a lengthy, well-attended "roll-up" atthe Store. Here we first made acquaintance with Messrs. Browne and Lyon, then negotiating for the purchase of Bayley's fabulous mine of gold. No account of the richness of this claim at that time could be tooextravagant to be true; for surely such a solid mass of gold was neverseen before, as met the eye in the surface workings. 

Messrs. Browne and Lyon had at their camp a small black-boy whom theytried in vain to tame. He stood a good deal of misplaced kindness, andeven wore clothes without complaint; but he could not bear having his haircut, and so ran away to the bush. He belonged to the wandering tribe thatdaily visited the camp--a tribe of wretched famine-stricken "blacks, "whose natural hideousness and filthy appearance were intensified by thedirty rags with which they made shift to cover their bodies. I shouldnever have conceived it possible that such living skeletons could exist. Without begging from the diggers I fail to see how they could have lived, for not a living thing was to be found in the bush, save an occasionaliguana and "bardies, *" and, as I have said, all known waters withinavailable distance of Coolgardie were dry, or nearly so. 

[* "Bardies" are large white grubs--three or four inches long--which thenatives dig out from the roots of a certain shrub. When baked onwood-ashes they are said to be excellent eating. The natives, however, prefer them raw, and, having twisted off the heads, eat them with evidentrelish. ]

Benstead had managed to bring up a few sheep from the coast, which the"gins, " or women, used to tend. The native camp was near theslaughter-yard, and it used to be an interesting and charming sight to seethese wild children of the wilderness, fighting with their mongrel dogsfor the possession of the offal thrown away by the butcher. If successfulin gaining this prize they were not long in disposing of it, cookingevidently being considered a waste of time. A famished "black-fellow"after a heavy meal used to remind me of pictures of the boa-constrictorwho has swallowed an ox, and is resting in satisfied peace to gorge. 

The appeal of "Gib it damper" or "Gib it gabbi" (water), was seldom madein vain, and hardly a day passed but what one was visited by these silent, starving shadows. In appreciation no doubt of the kindness shown them, some of the tribe volunteered to find "gabbi" for the white-fellow in theroots of a certain gum-tree. Their offer was accepted, and soon a band ofunhappy-looking miners was seen returning. In their hands they carriedshort pieces of the root, which they sucked vigorously; some got a littlemoisture, and some did not, but however unequal their success in thisrespect they were all alike in another, for every man vomited freely. Thismeans of obtaining a water supply never became popular. No doubt a littlemoisture can be coaxed from the roots of certain gums, but it would seemthat it needs the stomach of a black-fellow to derive any benefit from it. 

Though I cannot say that I studied the manners and customs of theaboriginals at that time, the description, none the worse for being old, given to savages of another land would fit them admirably--"Manners none, customs beastly. "

CHAPTER II

"HARD UP"

During that drought-stricken Christmas-time my mate was down at the"Cross, " trying to carry through some business by which our coffers mightbe replenished; for work how we would on alluvial or quartz reefs, no goldcould we find. That we worked with a will, the remark made to me by an oldfossicker will go to show. After watching me "belting away" at a solidmass of quartz for some time without speaking, "Which, " said he, "is thehammer-headed end of your pick?" Then shaking his head, "Ah! I could guessyou were a Scotchman--brute force and blind ignorance!" He then proceededto show me how to do twice the amount of work at half the expenditure oflabour. I never remember a real digger who was not ready to help one, bothwith advice and in practice, and I never experienced that "greening" ofnew chums which is a prominent feature of most novels that deal withAustralian life. 

In the absence of Lord Douglas, an old horse-artilleryman, Richardson byname, was my usual comrade. A splendid fellow he was too, and one of thefew to be rewarded for his dogged perseverance and work. In a pitiablestate the poor man was when first we met, half dead from dysentery, campedall alone under a sheet of coarse calico. Emaciated from sickness, he wasunable to follow his horses, which had wandered in search of food andwater, though they constituted his only earthly possession. How he, andmany another I could mention, survived, I cannot think. But if a mandeclines to die, and fights for life, he is hard to kill!

Amongst the prospectors it was customary for one mate to look after thehorses, and pack water to the others who worked. These men, of course, knew several sources unknown to the general public. It was from one ofthem that we learnt of the existence of a small soak some thirteen milesfrom Coolgardie. Seeing no hope of rain, and no prospect of being able tostop longer at Coolgardie, Mr. Davies, who camped near us, and I, decidedto make our way to this soak, and wait for better or worse times. Takingthe only horse which remained to us, and what few provisions we had, wechanged our residence from the dust-swept flats of Coolgardie to thesilent bush, where we set up a little hut of boughs, and awaited thecourse of events. Sheltered from the sun's burning rays by our house, solow that it could only be entered on hands and knees, for we had neithertime nor strength to build a spacious structure, and buoyed up by theentrancement of reading "The Adventures of a Lady's Maid, " kindly lent bya fellow-digger, we did our best to spend a "Happy Christmas. "

Somehow, the climate and surroundings seemed singularly inappropriate;dust could not be transformed, even in imagination, into snow, nor heatinto frost, any more easily than we could turn dried apples into roastbeef and plum-pudding. Excellent food as dried fruit is, yet it is aptto become monotonous when it must do duty for breakfast, dinner, and tea!Such was our scanty fare; nevertheless we managed to keen up theappearance of being quite festive and happy. 

Having spread the table--that is, swept the floor clear of ants and otherhomely insects--and laid out the feast, I rose to my knees and proposedthe health of my old friend and comrade Mr. Davies, wished him thecompliments of the season, and expressed a hope that we should never spenda worse Christmas. The toast was received with cheers and honoured in weaktea, brewed from the re-dried leaves of our last night's meal. He suitablyreplied, and cordially endorsed my last sentiment. After duly honouringthe toasts of "The Ladies, " "Absent Friends, " and others befitting theoccasion, we fell to on the frugal feast. 

For the benefit of thrifty housewives, as well as those whom poverty hasstricken, I respectfully recommend the following recipe. For dried apples:Take a handful, chew slightly, swallow, fill up with warm water and wait. Before long a feeling both grateful and comforting, as having dined notwisely but too heavily, will steal over you. Repeat the dose for luncheonand tea. 

One or two other men were camped near us, and I have no doubt would havewillingly added to our slender store had they known to what short commonswe were reduced. Our discomforts were soon over, however, for Lord Douglashearing that I was in a starving condition, hastened from the "Cross, " notheeding the terrible accounts of the track, bringing with him a supply ofthe staple food of the country, "Tinned Dog"--as canned provisions aredesignated. 

Wandering on from our little rock of refuge, we landed at the Twenty-fiveMile, where lately a rich reef had been found. We pegged out a claim onwhich we worked, camped under the shade of a "Kurrajong" tree, close abovea large granite rock on which we depended for our water; and here we spentseveral months busy on our reef, during which time Lord Douglas went hometo England, with financial schemes in his head, leaving Mr. Davies andmyself to hold the property and work as well as we could manage and Ifancy that for a couple of amateurs we did a considerable amount ofdevelopment. 

Here we lived almost alone, with the exception of another small partyworking the adjoining mine, occasionally visited by a prospector withhorses to water. Though glad of their company, it was not with unmixedfeelings that we viewed their arrival, for it took us all our time to getsufficient water for ourselves. I well remember one occasion on which, after a slight shower of rain, we, having no tank, scooped up the water wecould from the shallow holes, even using a sponge, such was our eagernessnot to waste a single drop; the water thus collected was emptied into alarge rock-hole, which we covered with flat stones. We then went to ourdaily work on the reef, congratulating ourselves on the nice little"plant" of water. Imagine our disgust, on returning in the evening, atfinding a mob of thirsty packhorses being watered from our precioussupply! There was nothing to be done but to pretend we liked it. Thewater being on the rock was of course free to all. 

How I used to envy those horsemen, and longed for the time when I couldafford horses or camels of my own, to go away back into the bush and justsee what was there. Many a day I spent poring over the map of the Colony, longing and longing to push out into the vast blank spaces of the unknown. Even at that time I planned out the expedition which at last I was enabledto undertake, though all was very visionary, and I could hardly conceivehow I should ever manage to find the necessary ways and means. 

Nearly every week I would ride into Coolgardie for stores, and walk outagain leading the loaded packhorse, our faithful little chestnut "brumby, "i. E. , half-wild pony, of which there are large herds running in the bushnear the settled parts of the coast. A splendid little fellow this, a truetype of his breed, fit for any amount of work and hardship. As often asnot he would do his journey into Coolgardie (twenty-five miles), be tiedup all night without a feed or drink--or as long as I had to spend thereon business--and return again loaded next morning. Chaff and oats werethen almost unprocurable, and however kind-hearted he might be, a poorman could hardly afford a shilling a gallon to water his horse. On theseoccasions I made my quarters at Bayley's mine, where a good solid meal andthe pleasant company of Messrs. Browne and Lyon always awaited me. Severaltimes in their generosity these good fellows spared a gallon or two ofprecious water for the old pony. 

They have a funny custom in the West of naming horses after theirowners--thus the chestnut is known to this day as "Little Carnegie. "Sometimes they are named after the men from whom they are bought. Thispractice, when coach-horses are concerned, has its laughable side, andpassengers unacquainted with the custom may be astonished to hear allsorts of oaths and curses, or words of entreaty and encouragement, addressed to some well-known name--and they might be excused for thinkingthe driver's mind was a little unhinged, or that in his troubles andvexations he was calling on some prominent citizen, in the same way thatknights of old invoked their saints. 

Thus, our peaceful life at the "Twenty-five" passed on, relieved sometimesby the arrival of horsemen and others in search of water. Amongst ouroccasional visitors was a well-known gentleman, bearing the proud titleof "The biggest liar in Australia. " How far he deserved the distinction Ishould hesitate to say, for men prone to exaggerate are not uncommon inthe bush. Sometimes, however, they must have the melancholy satisfactionof knowing that they are disbelieved, when they really do happen to tellthe truth. A story of my friend's, which was received with incredulouslaughter, will exemplify this. 

This was one of his experiences in Central Australia. He was perishingfrom thirst, and, at the last gasp, he came to a clay-pan which, to hisdespair, was quite dry and baked hard by the sun. He gave up all hope; notso his black-boy, who, after examining the surface of the hard clay, started to dig vigorously, shouting, "No more tumble down, plenty waterhere!" Struggling to the side of his boy, he found that he had unearthed alarge frog blown out with water, with which they relieved their thirst. Subsequent digging disclosed more frogs, from all of which so great asupply of water was squeezed that not only he and his boy, but the horsesalso were saved from a terrible death!

This story was received with laughter and jeers, and cries of"Next please!" But to show that it had foundations of truth I may quote anextract from "The Horn Scientific Expedition to Central Australia"(part i. P. 21), in which we read the following:--

". . . The most interesting animal is the Burrowing or Waterholding Frog, (CHIROLEPTES PLATYCEPHALUS). As the pools dry up it fills itself out withwater, which in some way passes through the walls of the alimentarycanal, filling up the body cavity, and swelling the animal out until itlooks like a small orange. In this condition it occupies a cavity just bigenough for the body, and simply goes to sleep. When, with the aid of anative, we cut it out of its hiding-place, the animal at first remainedperfectly still, with its lower eyelids completely drawn over the eyes, giving it the appearance of being blind, which indeed the black assuredus that it was. . . . "

Most travellers cannot fail to have noticed how clay-pans recently filledby rain, even after a prolonged drought, swarm with tadpoles andfull-grown frogs and numberless water insects, the presence of which mustonly be explained by the ability of the frog to store his supply in hisown body, and the fact that the eggs of the insects require moisturebefore they can hatch out. 

Many a laugh we had round the camp-fire at night, and many are the yarnsthat were spun. Few, however, were of sufficient interest to live in mymemory, and I fear that most of them would lose their points in becomingfit for publication. "Gold, " naturally, was the chief topic ofconversation, especially amongst the older diggers, who love to tell onein detail how many ounces they got in one place and how many in another, until one feels that surely they must be either millionaires or liars. New rushes, and supposed new rushes, were eagerly discussed; men wereoften passing and repassing our rock, looking for somebody who was"on gold"--for the majority of prospectors seldom push out for themselves, but prefer following up some man or party supposed to have "struck itrich. "

The rumours of a new find so long bandied about at length came true. Billy Frost had found a thousand! two thousand!! three thousandounces!!!--who knew or cared?--on the margin of a large salt lake someninety miles north of Coolgardie. Frost has since told me that abouttwelve ounces of gold was all he found, And, after all, there is not muchdifference between twelve and three thousand--that is on a mining field. Before long the solitude of our camp was disturbed by the constant passingof travellers to and from this newly discovered "Ninety Mile"--so namedfrom its distance from Coolgardie. 

As a fact, this mining camp (now known as the town of Goongarr) is onlysixty odd miles from the capital, measured by survey, but in early days, distances were reckoned by rate of travel, and roads and tracks twistedand turned in a most distressing manner, sometimes deviating for water, but more often because the first maker of the track had been riding alongcarelessly, every now and then turning sharp back to his proper course. Subsequent horse or camel men, having only a vague knowledge of thedirection of their destination, would be bound to follow the first tracks;after these would come light buggies, spring-carts, drays, and heavywaggons, until finally a deeply rutted and well-worn serpentine roadthrough the forest or scrub was formed, to be straightened in course oftime, as observant travellers cut off corners, and later by Governmentsurveyors and road-makers. 

Prospectors were gradually "poking out, " gold being found in alldirections in greater or less degree; but it was not until June, 1893, that any find was made of more than passing interest. Curiously, thisgreat goldfield of Hannan's (now called Kalgoorlie) was found by theveriest chance. Patrick Hannan, like many others, had joined in awild-goose chase to locate a supposed rush at Mount Yule--a mountain theheight and importance of which may be judged from the fact that no one wasable to find it! On going out one morning to hunt up his horses, hechanced on a nugget of gold. In the course of five years this littlenugget has transformed the silent bush into a populous town of 2, 000inhabitants, with its churches, clubs, hotels, and streets of offices andshops, surrounded by rich mines, and reminded of the cause of itsexistence by the ceaseless crashing of mills and stamps, grinding out goldat the rate of nearly 80, 000 oz. Per mouth. 

Arriving one Sunday morning from our camp at the "Twenty-five, " I wasastonished to find Coolgardie almost deserted, not even the usual "SundaySchool" going on. Now I am sorry to disappoint my readers who are notconversant with miners' slang, but they must not picture rows of goodlittle children sitting in the shade of the gum-trees, to whom somekind-hearted digger is expounding the Scriptures. No indeed! The miners'school is neither more nor less than a largely attended game ofpitch-and-toss, at which sometimes hundreds of pounds in gold or noteschange hands. I remember one old man who had only one shilling between himand the grave, so he told me. He could not decide whether to invest hislast coin in a gallon of water or in the "heading-school. " He chose thelatter and lost . . . Subsequently I saw him lying peacefully drunk undera tree! I doubt if his intention had been suicide, but had it been hecould hardly have chosen a more deadly weapon than the whiskey of thosedays. 

The "rush to Hannan's" had depopulated Coolgardie and the next day sawDavies and myself amongst an eager train of travellers bound for the newsite of fortune. "Little Carnegie" was harnessed to a small cart, whichcarried our provisions and tools. The commissariat department was easilyattended to, as nothing was obtainable but biscuits and tinned soup. Itwas now mid-winter, and nights were often bitterly cold. Without tent orfly, and with hardly a blanket between us, we used to lie shivering atnight. 

A slight rain had fallen, insufficient to leave much water about, and yetenough to so moisten the soil as to make dry-blowing impossible in theordinary way. Fires had to be built and kept going all night, piled up onheaps of alluvial soil dug out during the day. In the morning these heapswould be dry enough to treat, and ashes and earth were dry-blowntogether--the pleasures of the ordinary process being intensified by theaddition of clouds of ashes. 

A strange appearance these fires had, dotted through the brush, lightingup now a tent, now a water-cart, now a camp of fortunate ones lying cosilyunder their canvas roof, now a set of poor devils with hardly a rag totheir backs. Oh glorious uncertainty of mining! One of these very poordevils that I have in my mind has now a considerable fortune, with roomsin a fashionable quarter of London, and in frock-coat and tall hat"swells" it with the best!

How quickly men change to be sure! A man who at one time would "steal theshirt off a dead black-fellow, " in a few short months is complaining ofthe taste of his wine or the fit of his patent-leather boots. Dame Fortunewas good to some, but to us, like many others, she turned a deaf ear, andafter many weeks' toil we had to give up the battle, for neither food, money, nor gold had we. All I possessed was the pony, and from that oldfriend I could not part. The fruits of our labours, or I should say myshare in them, I sent home in a letter, and the few pin's-heads of goldso sent did not necessitate any extra postage. Weary and toil-worn wereturned to Coolgardie, and the partners of some rather remarkableexperiences split company, and went each his own way. 

It is several years since I have seen Mr. Davies; but I believe Fortune'swheel turned round for him at length, and that now he enjoys the rest thathis years and toils entitle him to. I have many kindly recollections ofour camping days together, and of the numerous yarns my mate used to spinof his palmy days as a Queensland squatter. 

CHAPTER III

A MINER ON BAYLEY'S

Returned from the rush, I made my way to Bayley's to seek employment formy pony and his master. Nor did I seek in vain, for I was duly entered onthe pay-sheet as "surface hand" at 3 pounds 10 shillings per week, withwater at the rate of one gallon per day. Here I first made theacquaintance of Godfrey Massie, a cousin of the Brownes, who, like me, had been forced by want of luck to work for wages, and who, by the way, had carried his "swag" on his back from York to the goldfields, a distanceof nearly 300 miles. He and I were the first amateurs to get a job on thegreat Reward Claim, though subsequently it became a regular harbour ofrefuge for young men crowded out from the banks and offices of Sydney andMelbourne. Nothing but a fabulously rich mine could have stood thetinkering of so many unprofessional miners. It speaks well for thekindness of heart of those at the head of the management of the mine thatthey were willing to trust the unearthing of so much treasure to the handsof boys unused to manual work, or to work of any kind in a great manycases. 

How rich the mine was, may be judged from the fact that for the first fewmonths the enormous production of gold from it was due to the labours ofthree of the shareholders, assisted by only two other men. The followingletter from Mr. Everard Browne to Lord Douglas gives some idea of what theyield was at the time that I went there to work:--

"I am just taking 4, 200 oz, over to Melbourne from our reef (Bayley's). This makes 10, 000 oz. We have brought down from our reef without abattery, or machinery equal to treating 200 lbs. Of stone per day; that isa bit of a record for you! We have got water in our shaft at 137 feet, enough to run a battery, and we shall have one on the ground in threemonths' time or under, Egan dollied out 1, 000 oz, in a little over twomonths, before I came down, from his reef; and Cashman dollied 700 oz. Outof his in about three weeks and had one stone 10 lbs. Weight with 9 lbs. Of gold in it, so we are not the only successful reefers since you left. I hope you will soon be with us again. 

"If you are speaking about this 10, 000 oz. We have taken out of our reefin six months, remember that Bayley and Ford dollied out 2, 500 oz. Forthemselves before they handed it over to us on February 27th last, so thatactually 12, 500 oz. Have been taken out of the claim, without a battery, in under nine months. The shoot of gold is now proved over 100 feet longon the course of the reef, and we were down 52 feet in our shaft on thereef, with as good gold as ever at the bottom. The other shaft, which wehave got water in, is in the country (a downright shaft). We expect tomeet the reef in it at 170 feet. "

Besides Massie, myself, and Tom Cue, there were not then many employed, and really we used to have rather an enjoyable time than otherwise. Working regular hours, eight hours on and sixteen off, sometimes on thesurface, sometimes below, with hammer and drill, or pick and shovel, always amongst glittering gold, was by no means unpleasant. It wouldcertainly have been better still had we been able to keep what we found, but the next best thing to being successful is to see those one is fondof, pile up their banking account; and I have had few better friends thanthe resident shareholders on Bayley's Reward. 

What good fellows, too, were the professional miners, always ready to helpone and make the time pass pleasantly. Big Jim Breen was my mate for sometime, and many a pleasant talk and smoke (Smoke, O! is a recognised restfrom work at intervals during a miner's shift) we have had at the bottomof a shaft, thirty to fifty feet from the surface! I really think thathaving to get out of a nice warm bed or tent for night shift, viz. , frommidnight to 8 a. M. , was the most unpleasant part of my life as a miner. 

As recreation we used to play occasional games of cricket on a very hardand uneven pitch, and for social entertainments had frequent sing-songsand "buck dances"--that is, dances in which there were no ladies to takepart--at Faahan's Club Hotel in the town, some one and a half milesdistant. "Hotel" was rather too high-class a name, for it was by no meansan imposing structure, hessian and corrugated iron taking the place of thebricks and slates of a more civilised building. The addition of aweather-board front, which was subsequently erected, greatly enhanced itsattractions. Mr. Faahan can boast of having had the first two-storeyedhouse in the town; though the too critical might hold that the upper one, being merely a sham, could not be counted as dwelling-room. There was nosham, however, about the festive character of those eveningentertainments. 

Thus time went on, the only change in my circumstances resulting from mypromotion to engine-driver--for now the Reward Claim boasted a smallcrushing plant--and Spring came, and with it in November the disastrousrush to "Siberia. " This name, like most others on the goldfields, may betraced to the wit of some disappointed digger. 

The rush was a failure or "frost, " and so great a one that "Siberia" wasthe only word adequately to express the chagrin of the men who hoped somuch from its discovery. Being one of these myself, I can cordiallyendorse the appropriateness of the name. What a motley crowd of eagerfaces throngs the streets and camp on the first news of a new rush--everyone anxious to be off and be the first to make his fortune--every manquestioning his neighbour, who knows no more than himself, about distancesand direction, where the nearest water may be, and all manner of similarqueries. 

Once clear of the town, what a strange collection of baggage animals, horses, camels, and donkeys! What a mass of carts, drays, buggies, wheelbarrows, handbarrows, and many queer makeshifts for carryinggoods--the strangest of all a large barrel set on an axle, and dragged orshoved by means of two long handles, the proud possessor's belongingsturning round and round inside until they must surely be churned into amost confusing jumble. Then we see the "Swagman" with his load on hisback, perhaps fifty pounds of provisions rolled up in his blankets, with apick and shovel strapped on them, and in either hand a gallon bag ofwater. No light work this with the thermometer standing at 100 degrees inthe shade, and the track inches deep in fine, powdery dust; and yet menstart off with a light heart, with perhaps, a two hundred mile journeybefore them, replenishing their bundles as they pass through camps ontheir road. 

"Siberia" was said to be seventy miles of a dry stage, and yet off we allstarted, as happy as kings at the chance of mending our fortunes. 

Poor Crossman (since dead), McCulloch, and I were mates, and we were welloff, for we had not only "Little Carnegie, " and who, like his master, hadbeen earning his living at Bayley's, but a camel, "Bungo" by name, kindlylent by Gordon Lyon. Thus we were able to carry water as well asprovisions, and helped to relieve the sufferings of many a poor wretch whohad only his feet to serve him. 

The story of Siberia may be soon told. Hundreds "rushed" over this drystage, at the end of which a small and doubtful water supply wasobtainable. When this supply gave out fresh arrivals had to do their bestwithout it, the rush perforce had to set back again, privations, disaster, and suffering being the only result. Much was said and written at the timeabout the scores of dead and dying men and horses who lined theroads--roads because there were two routes to the new field. There mayhave been deaths on the other track, but I know that we saw none on ours. Men in sore straits, with swollen tongues and bleeding feet, we saw, and, happily, were able to relieve; and I am sure that many would have died butfor the prompt aid rendered by the Government Water Supply Department, which despatched drays loaded with tanks of water to succour the sufferingminers. So the fortunes, to be made at Siberia, had again to be postponed. 

Shortly after our return to Coolgardie a "gold escort" left Bayley's forthe coast, and as a guardian of the precious freight I travelled down toPerth. There was no Government escort at that time, and any luckypossessor of gold had to carry it to the capital as best he could. 

With four spanking horses, Gordon Lyon as driver, three men with him onthe express-waggon, an outrider behind and in front, all armed withrepeating rifles, we rattled down the road, perhaps secretly wishing thatsomeone would be venturesome enough to attempt to "stick us up. " No suchstirring event occurred, however, and we reached the head of the thenpartially constructed line, and there took train for Perth, where Ieagerly awaited the arrival of my old friend and companion, Percy Douglas. He meanwhile had had his battles to fight in the financial world, and hadcome out to all appearances on top, having been instrumental in forming animportant mining company from which we expected great things. 

PART II FIRST PROSPECTING EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I

THE RUSH TO KURNALPI--WE REACH QUEEN VICTORIA SPRING

Shortly after Lord Douglas's return, I took the train to York, where"Little Carnegie, " who had formed one of the team to draw the gold-ladenexpress waggon from Bayley's to the head of the railway line, was runningin one of Mr. Monger's paddocks. The Mongers are the kings of York, anagricultural town, and own much property thereabouts. York and itssurroundings in the winter-time might, except for the corrugated-ironroofs, easily be in England. Many of the houses are built of stone, andenclosed in vineyards and fruit gardens. The Mongers' house was quiteafter the English style, so also was their hospitality. From York I rodealong the old track to Southern Cross, and a lonely ride I had, for thetrain had superseded the old methods of travel, much to the disgust ofsome of the "cockies, " or small farmers, who expressed the opinion thatthe country was going to the dogs, "them blooming railways were spoilingeverything"; the reason for their complaint being, that formerly, all thecarrying had been in the teamsters' hands, as well as a considerableamount of passenger traffic. 

I had one or two "sells" on the road, for former stopping-places were nowdeserted, and wells had been neglected, making it impossible, from theirdepth, for me to get any water. I was fortunate in falling in with ateamster and his waggon--a typical one of his class; on first sight theyare the most uncouth and foul-tongued men that it is possible to imagine. But on further acquaintance one finds that the language is as superficialas the dirt with which they cannot fail to be covered, since they arealways walking in a cloud of dust. My friend on this occasion wasapostrophising his horses with oaths that made my flesh creep, to helpthem up a steep hill. The top reached, he petted and soothed his team inmost quaint language. At the bottom of the slope he was a demon ofcruelty, at its summit a kind-hearted human being! I lunched with him, sitting under his waggon for shade, and found him most entertaining--norwas the old pony neglected, for he was given a fine feed of chaff andoats. 

In due time I reached Coolgardie, where Lord Douglas and our new partner, Mr. Driffield (since drowned in a boating accident on the Swan River), joined me. They had engaged the services of one Luck and his camels, andhad ridden up from the Cross. The rush to Kurnalpi had just broken out, so Driffield, Luck, and I joined the crowd of fortune-hunters; and aqueer-looking crowd they were too, for every third or fourth swagmancarried on his shoulder a small portable condenser, the boiler hangingbehind him and the cooler in front; every party, whether with horses, carts, or camels, carried condensers of one shape or another; for themonth was January, no surface water existed on the track, and only saltwater could be obtained, by digging in the salt lakes which the roadpassed. The nearest water to the scene of the rush was a salt lake sevenmiles distant, and this at night presented a strange appearance. Condensers of every size and capacity fringed the two shores of a narrowchannel; under each was a fire, and round each all night long could beseen figures, stoking the burning wood or drawing water, and in thedistance the sound of the axe could be heard, for at whatever time a partyarrived they had forthwith to set about "cooking water. " The clatteringand hammering the incessant talking, and the figures flitting about in theglare, reminded one of a crowded open-air market with flaring lamps andfrequent coffee stalls. Kurnalpi was known at first as "Billy-Billy, " oras "The Tinker's Rush"--the first name was supposed by some to be ofnative origin, by others to indicate the amount of tin used in thecondensing plants--"Billy, " translated for those to whom the bush isunfamiliar, meaning a tin pot for boiling tea in, and other such uses. 

Certainly there was plenty of tin at Kurnalpi, and plenty of alluvial goldas well for the lucky ones--amongst which we were not numbered. PoorDriffield was much disgusted; he had looked upon gold-finding as thesimplest thing in the world--and so it is if you happen to look in theright place! and when you do so it's a hundred to one that you think yourown cleverness and knowledge guided you to it! Chance? Oh dear, no! Fromthat time forth your reputation is made as "a shrewd fellow who knows athing or two"; and if your find was made in a mine, you are an "expert"at once, and can command a price for your report on other minescommensurate with the richness of your own!

As the gold would not come to us, and my partner disliked the labour ofseeking it, we returned to Coolgardie, and set about looking after themines we already had. Financial schemes or business never had any charmsfor me; when therefore I heard that the Company had cabled out that aprospecting party should be despatched at once, I eagerly availed myselfof the chance of work so much to my taste. As speed was an object, andneither camels nor men procurable owing to the rush, we did not waste anytime in trying to form a large expedition, such as the soul of the Londondirector loveth, but contented ourselves with the camels already to hand. 

On March 24, 1894, we started; Luck, myself, and three camels--Omerod, Shimsha, and Jenny by name--with rations for three months, andinstructions to prospect the Hampton Plains as far as the supply ofsurface water permitted; failing a long stay in that region I could gowhere I thought best. 

To the east and north-east of Coolgardie lie what are known as the HamptonPlains--so named by Captain Hunt, who in 1864 led an expedition past York, eastward, into the interior. Beyond the Hampton Plains he was forced backby the Desert, and returned to York with but a sorry tale of the countryhe had seen. "An endless sea of scrub, " was his apt description of thegreater part of the country. Compared to the rest, the Hampton Plains weresplendid pastoral lands. Curiously enough, Hunt passed and repassed closeto what is now Coolgardie, and, though reporting quartz and ironstone, failed to hit upon any gold. Nor was he the only one; Coolgardie hadseveral narrow squeaks of being found out. 

Giles and Forrest both traversed districts since found to be gold-bearing, and though, like Hunt, reporting, and even bringing back specimens ofquartz and ironstone, had the bad luck to miss finding even a "colour. "

Alexander Forrest, Goddard, and Lindsay all passed within appreciabledistance of Coolgardie without unearthing its treasures, though inLindsay's journal the geologist to the expedition pronounced the countryauriferous. When we come to consider how many prospectors pass over gold, it is not so wonderful that explorers, whose business is to see as muchcountry as they can, in as short a time as possible, should have failed todrop on the hidden wealth. 

Bayley and Ford, its first discoverers, were by no means the firstprospectors to camp at Coolgardie. In 1888 Anstey and party actually foundcolours of gold, and pegged out a claim, whose corner posts were standingat the time of the first rush; but nobody heeded them, for the quartz wasnot rich enough. 

In after years George Withers sunk a hole and "dry blew" the wash not veryfar from Bayley's, yet he discovered no gold. Macpherson, too, poked outbeyond Coolgardie, and nearly lost his life in returning, and, indeed, wassaved by his black-boy, who held him on the only remaining horse. 

Other instances could be given, all of which show that Nature will not bebustled, and will only divulge her secrets when the ordained time hasarrived. It has been argued that since Giles, for example, passed theCoolgardie district without finding gold, therefore there is everyprobability of the rest of the country through which he passed beingauriferous. It fails to occur to those holding this view, that a man mayrecognise possible gold-bearing country without finding gold, or to readthe journals of these early travellers, in which they would see that theDesert is plainly demarcated, and the change in the nature of the country, the occurrence of quartz, and so forth, always recorded. These folk who sonarrowly missed the gold were not the only unfortunate ones; thoseresponsible for the choosing for their company of the blocks of land onthe Hampton Mains were remarkably near securing all the plums. 

Bayley's is one and a half miles from their boundary, Kalgoorlie twelvemiles, Kurnalpi seven miles, and a number of other places lie just on thewrong side of the survey line to please the shareholders, though had allthese rich districts been found on their land, I fancy there would havebeen a pretty outcry from the general public. 

At the time of which I am writing this land was considered likely to be asrich as Ophir. Luck and I were expected to trip up over nuggets, and comeback simply impregnated with gold. Unfortunately we not only found nogold, but formed a very poor idea of that part of the property which wewere able to traverse, though, given a good supply of water, it shouldprove valuable stock country. Before we had been very long started on ourjourney we met numerous parties returning from that region, though legallythey had no right to prospect there; each told us the same story--everywater was dry; and since every one we had been to was all but dry, weconcluded that they were speaking the truth; so when we arrived at Yindi, a large granite rock with a cavity capable of holding some twentythousand gallons of water, and found Yindi dry, we decided to leave theHampton Plains and push out into new country. 

Queen Victoria Spring, reported permanent by Giles, lay some seventymiles to the eastward, and attracted our attention; for Lindsay hadreported quartz country near the Ponton, not far from the Spring, and thecountry directly between the Spring and Kurnalpi was unknown. 

On April 15th we left Yindi, having seen the last water twenty-six milesback near Gundockerta, and passed Mount Quinn, entering a dense thicket ofmulga, which lasted for the next twenty miles. It was most awkward countryto steer through, and I often overheard Luck muttering to himself that Iwas going all wrong, for he was a first-rate bushman and I a novice. I hadbought a little brumby from a man we met on the Plains, an excellent pony, and most handy in winding his way through the scrub. Luck rode Jenny andled the other two camels. Hereabouts we noticed a large number of oldbrush fences--curiously I have never once seen a new one--which thenatives had set up for catching wallabies. The fences run out in longwings, which meet in a point where a hole is dug. Neither wallabies nornatives were to be seen, though occasionally we noticed where "bardies"had been dug out, and a little further on a native grave, a hole aboutthree feet square by three feet deep, lined at the bottom with gum leavesand strips of bark, evidently ready to receive the deceased. Luck, whoknew a good deal about native customs, told me that the grave, thoughapparently only large enough for a child, was really destined for a grownman. When a man dies his first finger is cut off, because he must notfight in the next world, nor need he throw a spear to slay animals, asgame is supplied. The body is then bent double until the knees touch thechin--this to represent a baby before birth; and in this cramped positionthe late warrior is crammed into his grave, until, according to asemi-civilised boy that I knew, he is called to the happy hunting grounds, where he changes colour! "Black fella tumble down, jump up white fella. "A clear proof that this benighted people have some conception of a betterstate hereafter. 

Once through the scrub, we came again into gum-timbered country, and whenfifty miles east of Kurnalpi crossed a narrow belt of auriferous country, but, failing to find water, were unable to stop. In a few miles we were indesert country--undulations of sand and spinifex, with frequent clumps ofdense mallee, a species of eucalyptus, with several straggling stemsgrowing from one root, and little foliage except at the ends of thebranches, an untidy and melancholy-looking tree. There was no change inthe country till after noon on the 18th, when we noticed some grass-trees, or black-boys, smaller than those seen near the coast, and presentlystruck the outskirts of a little oasis, and immediately after an old camelpad (Lindsay's in 1892, formed by a caravan of over fifty animals), whichwe followed for a few minutes, until the welcome sight of Queen VictoriaSpring met our eyes. A most remarkable spot, and one that cannot be betterdescribed than by quoting the words of its discoverer, Ernest Giles, in 1875, who, with a party of five companions, fifteen pack, and sevenriding camels, happened on this spring just when they most needed water. 

Giles says of it:--

"It is the most singularly placed water I have ever seen, lying in a smallhollow in the centre of a little grassy flat and surrounded by clumps offunereal pines. . . . The water is no doubt permanent, for it is suppliedby the drainage of the sandhills which surround it and it rests on asubstratum of impervious clay. It lies exposed to view in a small, openbasin, the water being about only one hundred and fifty yards incircumference and from two to three feet deep. Further up the slopes atmuch higher levels native wells had been sunk in all directions--in eachand all of these there was water. Beyond the immediate precincts of thisopen space the scrubs abound. . . . Before I leave this spot I had perhapsbetter remark that it might prove a very difficult, perhaps dangerous, place to any other traveller to attempt to find, because although thereare many white sandhills in the neighbourhood, the open space on whichthe water lies is so small in area and so closely surrounded by scrubs, that it cannot be seen from any conspicuous one, nor can any conspicuoussandhill, distinguishable at any distance, be seen from it. On the top ofthe banks above the wells was a beaten corroboree path, where the denizensof the desert have often held their feasts and dances. Some grass-treesgrew in the vicinity of this spring to a height of over twentyfeet. . . . "

A charming spot indeed! but we found it to be hardly so cheerful as thisdescription would lead one to expect. For at first sight the Spring wasdry. The pool of water was now a dry clay-pan; the numerous native wellswere there, but all were dry. The prospect was sufficiently gloomy, forour water was all but done, and poor Tommy, the pony, in spite of anallowance of a billy-full per night, was in a very bad way, for we hadtravelled nearly one hundred miles from the last water, and if this wasdry we knew no other that we could reach. However, we were not going tocry before we were hurt and set to work to dig out the soak, and in ashort time were rewarded by the sight of water trickling in on all sides, and, by roughly timbering the sides, soon had a most serviceable well--astate of affairs greatly appreciated by Tommy and the camels. This springor soakage, whichever it may be, is in black sand, though the sand outsidethe little basin is yellowish white. From what I have heard and read ofthem it must be something of the nature of what are called "black soilsprings. " Giles was right in his description of its remarkablesurroundings--unless we had marched right into the oasis, we shouldperhaps have missed it altogether, for it was unlikely that Lindsay'scamel tracks would be visible except where sheltered from the wind by thetrees; and our only instruments for navigation were a prismatic and pocketcompass, and a watch for rating our travel. I was greatly pleased at suchsuccessful steering for a first attempt of any distance, and Luck was aspleased as I was, for to him I owed many useful hints. Yet I was not blindto the fact that it was a wonderful piece of luck to strike exactly asmall spot of no more than fifty acres in extent, hidden in the valleys ofthe sandhills, from whose summits nothing could be seen but similar moundsof white sand. Amongst the white gum trees we found one marked withLindsay's initials with date. Under this I nailed on a piece of tin, onwhich I had stamped our names and date. Probably the blacks have longsince taken this down and used it as an ornament. Another tree, a pine, was marked W. Blake; who he was I do not know, unless one of Lindsay'sparty. Not far off was a grave, more like that of a white man than of anative; about its history, too, I am ignorant. 

Numerous old native camps surrounded the water, and many weapons, spears, waddies, and coolimans were lying about. The camps had not been occupiedfor some long time. In the scrub we came on a cleared space, some eightyyards long and ten to twelve feet wide. At each end were heaps of ashes, and down the middle ran a well-beaten path, and a similar one on eitherside not unlike an old dray track. Evidently a corroboree ground of somekind. From Luck I learnt that north of Eucla, where he had been with asurvey party, the natives used such grounds in their initiationceremonies. A youth on arriving at a certain age may become a warrior, and is then allowed to carry a shield and spear. Before he can attain thishonour he must submit to some very horrible rites--which are best leftundescribed. Seizing each an arm of the victim, two stalwart "bucks"(as the men are called) run him up and down the cleared space until theyare out of breath; then two more take places, and up and down they gountil at last the boy is exhausted. This is the aboriginal method ofapplying anaesthetics. During the operations that follow, the men danceand yell round the fires but the women may not be witnesses of theceremony. Tribes from all neighbouring districts meet at such times andhold high revel. Evidently Queen Victoria Spring is a favouritemeeting-place. I regret that I never had the chance of being present atsuch a gathering--few white men have. For except in thickly populateddistricts the ceremonies are rare; the natives are very ready to resentany prying into their mysteries, and Luck only managed it at some risk tohimself. Whilst camped at the Spring we made one or two short excursionsto the southward, but met with little encouragement. On turning ourattention to the opposite direction we found that nearly two hundred milesdue north a tract of auriferous country was marked on the map of the ElderExpedition. Between us and that point, the country was unmapped anduntrodden except by black-fellows, and it seemed reasonable to supposethat since the belts of country run more or less north and south we hada fair chance of finding gold-bearing country extending southward. Weshould be getting a long way from Coolgardie, but if a rich company couldnot afford to open up the country, who could? To the east we knew thatdesert existed, to the south the country was known, and to return the waywe had come would be only a waste of time. So we decided on the northerncourse, and chose Mount Shenton, near which a soakage was marked, as ourobjective point. We were not well equipped for a long march in newcountry, since we had few camels and scanty facilities for carrying water. By setting to work with the needle we soon had two canvas water-bags made;Luck, who had served in the French navy, like all sailors, was a veryhandy man in a camp, and could of course sew well, and gave me usefullessons in the handling of a sail-needle. 

CHAPTER II

IN UNKNOWN COUNTRY

On April 22nd we left the spring, steering due north--carrying in allthirty-five gallons of water, though this supply was very perceptiblyreduced by evening, owing to the canvas being new; loss by evaporation waslessened by covering the bags with a fly (a sheet of coarse calico). Theclass of country we encountered the first and second day can stand for therest of the march. Spinifex plains, undulating sand-plains, rollingsandhills, steep sand-ridges, mallee scrubs, desert-gum forests, and densethickets of mulga. The last were most unpleasant to travel through; foras we wound our way, one walking ahead to break down the branches, theother leading the camels, and Tommy following behind, every now and againthe water-camel banged his precious load against a tree; and we walkedwith the constant risk of a dead branch ripping the canvas and lettingout the water. 

On the second evening, in passing through a mallee scrub, we came on asmall tract of "kopi country" (powdered gypsum). Here were numerous oldnative tracks, and we could see where the mallee roots had been draggedup, broken into short pieces, presumably sucked or allowed to drain intosome vessel, and stacked in little heaps. Though we knew that the blacksdo get water from the mallee roots, and though we were in a spot where itwas clear they had done so perhaps a month before, yet our attempts atwater-finding were futile. This kopi is peculiar soil to walk over; on thesurface there is a hard crust--once through this, one sinks nearly to theknee; the camels of course, from their weight, go much lower. 

On the night of the 23rd, we gave Tommy two gallons of water--not much ofa drink, but enough to make him tackle the mulga, and spinifex-tops, theonly available feed; none but West Australian brumbies could live on suchfare, and they will eat anything, like donkeys or goats. On the 24th therewas no change, a few quondongs affording a meal for the camels. 

The next day we crossed more old native tracks and followed them for sometime without any sign of water being near. More tracks the following day, fresher this time; but though doubtless there was water at the end ofthem, for several reasons we did not follow them far: first, they wereleading south-west and we wished to go north; second, the quantity ofmallee root heaps, suggested the possibility that the natives could obtainfrom them sufficient moisture to live upon. I think now that this is mostunlikely, and that roots are only resorted to when travelling or in timeof great need. However, at that time we were inclined to think itprobable, and though we might have sucked roots in place of a drink of teaor water, such a source of supply was absolutely valueless to the camelsand pony. 

On the 27th we sighted a hill dead ahead, which I named Mount Luck, and onthe southern side a nice little plain of saltbush and grass--a pleasantand welcome change. Mount Luck is sheer on its south and east sides andslopes gradually to the north-west; it is of desert sandstone, and fromits summit, nearly due east, can be seen an imposing flat-topped hill, which I named Mount Douglas, after my old friend and companion, to thenorth of this hill two quaint little pinnacles stand up above the scrub toa considerable height. 

Poor Tommy was now getting very weak and had to be dragged by the lastcamel. I had not ridden him since the second day from the Spring; he wasfamished and worn to a skeleton. His allowance of two gallons a night hadcontinued, which made a considerable hole in our supply, furtherdiminished by the necessity of giving him damper to eat. Poor little pony!It was a cruel sight to see him wandering from pack to pack in camp, poking his nose into every possible opening, and even butting us with hishead as if to call attention to his dreadful state, which was only tooapparent. "While there's life there's hope, " and every day took us nearerto water--that is if we were to get any at all! So long as we could do so, we must take Tommy with us, who might yet be saved. This, however, was notto be, for on the 28th we again encountered sand-ridges, running at rightangles to our course, and these proved too hard for the poor bravebrumby. About midday he at last gave in, and with glazed eyes and stifflimbs he fell to the ground. Taking off the saddle he carried, I knelt byhis head for a few minutes and could see there was no hope. Poor, faithfulfriend! I felt like a murderer in doing it, but I knew it was the kindestthing--and finished his sufferings with a bullet. There on the ridge, hisbones will lie for many a long day. Brave Tommy, whose rough and unkemptexterior covered a heart that any warhorse might have envied, had covered135 miles, without feed worth mentioning, and with only eleven gallons ofwater during that distance, a stage of nearly seven days' duration of veryhard travelling indeed, with the weather pretty sultry, though the nightswere cool. His death, however, was in favour of our water supply, whichwas not too abundant. So much had been lost by the bags knocking about onthe saddle, by their own pressure against the side of the saddle, and byevaporation, that we had to content ourselves with a quart-potful betweenus morning and evening--by no means a handsome allowance. 

On the 29th, after travelling eight hours through scrubs, we were justabout to camp when the shrill "coo-oo" of a black-fellow met our ears; andon looking round we were startled to see some half-dozen natives gazing atus. Jenny chose at that moment to give forth the howl that only cow-camelscan produce; this was too great a shock for the blacks, who stampededpell-mell, leaving their spears and throwing-sticks behind them. We gavechase, and, after a spirited run, Luck managed to stop a man. Astark-naked savage this, and devoid of all adornment excepting awaist-belt of plaited grass and a "sporran" of similar material. He was ingreat dread of the camels and not too sure of us. I gave him something toeat, and, by eating some of it myself, put him more at ease. After variousfutile attempts at conversation, in which Luck displayed great knowledgeof the black's tongue, as spoken a few hundred miles away near Eucla, butwhich unfortunately was quite lost on this native, we at last succeeded inmaking our wants understood. "Ingup, " "Ingup, " he kept repeating, pointingwith his chin to the North and again to the West. Evidently "Ingup" stoodfor water; for he presently took us to a small granite rock and pointedout a soak or rock-hole, we could not say which. Whilst we stooped toexamine the water-hole, our guide escaped into the scrub and was soon lostto view. Near the rock we found his camp. A few branches leaning against abush formed his house. In front a fire was burning, and near it a pluckedbird lay ready for cooking. Darkness overtook us before we could get towork on the rock-hole, so we turned into the blankets with a moresatisfied feeling than we had done for some days past. During the nightthe blacks came round us. The camels, very tired, had lain down close by, and, quietly creeping to Jenny, I slapped her nose, which awoke her withthe desired result, viz. , a loud roar. The sound of rapidly retreatingfeet was heard, and their owners troubled us no more. 

So sure were we of the supply in the granite that we gave the camels thefew gallons that were left in our bags, and were much disgusted to findthe next day that, far from being a soakage, the water was merelycontained in a rock-hole, which had been filled in with sand and sticks. 

April 30th and May 1st were occupied in digging out the sand andcollecting what water we could, a matter of five or six gallons. So badwas this water that the camels would not touch it; however, it madeexcellent bread, and passable tea. Man, recognising Necessity, is lessfastidious than animals who look to their masters to supply them with thebest, and cannot realise that in such cases "Whatever is, is best. "

From a broken granite rock North-West of the rock-hole, we sightednumerous peaks to the North, and knew that Mount Shenton could not now befar away. To the East of the rock-hole is a very prominent bluff somefifteen miles distant; this I named Mount Fleming, after Colonel Fleming, then Commandant of the West Australian forces. 

May 2nd we reached the hills and rejoiced to find ourselves once more indecent country. Numerous small, dry watercourses ran down from the hills, fringed with grass and bushes. In the open mulga, kangaroos' tracks werenumerous, and in the hills we saw several small red kangaroos, dingoes, and emus. At first we found great difficulty in identifying any of thehills; but after much consultation and reference to the map we at lastpicked out Mount Shenton, and on reaching the hill knew that we wereright, for we found Wells' cairn of stones and the marks of his camp andcamels. The next difficulty was in finding the soakage, as from a badreproduction of Wells' map it was impossible to determine whether the soakwas at the foot of Mount Shenton or near another hill three miles away. It only remained to search both localities. Our trouble was rewarded bythe finding of an excellent little soakage, near the foot of a graniterock, visible due East, from the top of Mount Shenton, some two milesdistant. Here we had an abundant supply, and not before it was wanted. Thecamels had had no water with the exception of a mouthful apiece from thenight of April 21st until the night of May 3rd, a period of twelve days, during which we had travelled nearly two hundred miles over very tryingground. The cool nights were greatly in their favour, and yet it was agood performance, more especially that at the end of it they were inpretty fair fettle. 

What a joy that water was to us! what a luxury a wash was! and cleanclothes! Really it's worth while being half famished and wholly filthy fora few days, that one may so thoroughly enjoy such delights afterwards!I know few feelings of satisfaction that approach those which oneexperiences on such occasions. Our cup of joy was not yet full, for as wesat mending our torn clothes, two over-inquisitive emus approached. Luckily a Winchester was close to hand, and as they were starting to run Imanaged to bowl one over. Wounded in the thigh he could yet go a greatpace, but before long we caught up with him and despatched him with a blowon the head. What a feed we had! I suppose there is hardly a part of thatbird, barring bones, feathers, and beak that did not find its way into ourmouths during the next day or two! Tinned meat is good, sometimesexcellent; but when you find that a cunning storekeeper has palmed off allhis minced mutton on you, you are apt to fancy tinned fare monotonous!Such was our case; and no matter what the label, the contents were alwaysthe same--though we tried to differentiate in imagination, as we used tocall it venison, beef, veal, or salmon, for variety's sake! "Well, oldchap, what shall we have for tea--Calf's head? Grouse? Pheasant?" "Hum!what about a little er--MINCED MUTTON--we've not had any for some time, I think. " In this way we added relish to our meal. 

Amongst the hills we saw numerous kangaroos, but could never get a shot. This must be a fine camp for natives. Near the soak was a camp of quite adozen blacks, but recently deserted. In fact we must have scared themaway, for their fires were still smouldering. We spent three days inexploring the hills, but failed to see any auriferous indications, excepting in the immediate neighbourhood of Mount Shenton. We hadtherefore had our long tramp for nothing, and had to be content withknowing that we had tried our best and had at least proved the uselesscharacter of a large stretch of country. For this, however, one gets nothanks. 

On the 6th we moved to a rock-hole near Mount Grant, in the same range asMount Shenton, and spent another day tramping the hills with no result. Here again we were in luck, for a mob of thirteen emus came to drinkwhilst I was in the rock-hole. Having seen them early that morning andknowing that they had had no drink, I felt sure they would return, and sohad patiently waited, crouched in the rock hole, waist deep in water. This, perhaps, did not improve its flavour, but emu meat was worthprocuring at the small cost of tainting the water with the taste ofclothes. Presently I heard the drumming of the approaching birds, and, cautiously looking up, found them attentively examining the bucket andpannikin, I had left on the rock. They made such a quaint, pretty picturethat unless we had really wanted meat, I should not have disturbed them. Had I been so inclined I could have shot several as they were bunchedtogether within a few feet of me; one, however, was sufficient, and as hefell the rest streamed away up the slope with tremendous speed. This birdwe cut into strips of meat which we dried in the sun. 

To celebrate this addition to our larder, we held a concert that night, and took it in turns to be the audience. Luck had rather a good voice, and treated me to French songs; his favourite started, "J'ai souventparcouru le monde, les forets et les grandes savannes----" This was alwaysloudly applauded. My songs were not a great success--in fact an audienceof one is all I can manage, that is if I am stronger, or fleeter of footthan he is. Luck was polite enough to say he enjoyed my rendering of"The Scottish Cavalier. " Then we used to read aloud to each other by thelight of the camp-fire. I did most of the reading, for my mate's Englishwas not as clear as it might have been. 

Athletic sports, too, we used to indulge in, feats of strength, and soforth, in most of which Luck was too good for me, but I always beat him atcock-fighting, which was rather a sore point. In fact, considering that wewere alone and had been so for many weeks, and were a long way into theinterior, "outside the tracks" by a good many score of miles, we managedto be fairly cheerful on the whole. I do not like writing about mycompanion's crotchets, because it seems unfair, since one's ownshortcomings never find the light unless the other man writes a book too. By freely conceding that sometimes I must have been a horrible nuisanceto him, I feel absolved in this matter. When Luck used to get sulky fits, he really was most trying; for two or three days he wouldn't speak, andfor want of company I used to talk to the camels; at the end of that time, when I saw signs of recovery, I used to address him thus, "Well, Bismarck, what's it all about?" Then he would tell me how I had agreed to bake adamper, and had gone off and done something else, leaving him to do it, orsome such trivial complaint. After telling me about it, he would regainhis usual cheerfulness. "Bismarck" was a sure draw, and made him so angrythat he had to laugh as the only way out of it without fighting someone. Luck, you see, was from Alsace, and did not care about the Germans. 

CHAPTER III

FROM MOUNT SHENTON TO MOUNT MARGARET

But to continue our journey. We left Mount Grant on May 8th, travellingSouth-West, and once away from the hills came again into sand andspinifex. From absence of feed we tied the camels down two nights running. The second night we had a visit from a native gentleman, and by his tracksin the morning we saw that he had been quite close to our heads at onetime. 

On the 10th a great change occurred in the country, and on passing througha thicket, we found a great wall of rock (decomposed granite) barringfurther progress. Following along the wall we came upon a gap, and, entering, reached a nice little plain of saltbush, surrounded by rocks andcliffs. This remarkable gap in the apparently extensive wall of rock wechristened the "Desert's Gate, " for we hourly expected to see bettercountry. The next day we cut some recent horse tracks, the first signs ofprospectors we had seen since April 15th, and following them back, hopingfor water, came to an empty rock-hole amongst some rough hills of blackslate, and in places, blows of quartz. No colours of gold could be found, nor signs of water, to induce us to stay longer prospecting. On the 12thwe crossed a narrow salt lake and bade adieu to the sand and spinifex. Tocommemorate this longed-for day, we afterwards composed numerous poems(?)illustrating our daily life in the desert. The one considered by us thebest, I beg to submit to the indulgent reader. 

 SPINIFEX AND SAND. 

 I will sing you a lay of W. A. Of a wanderer, travelled and tanned By the sun's fierce ray, through the livelong day In the Spinifex and Sand. 

 At the day's first dawn, in earliest morn, As a soldier obeys a command, From his blanket he's torn, still weary and worn, By the Spinifex and Sand. 

 Unrested still, he must put on the billy, And eat of the meat that is canned, He must take his full fill, he must face willy-nilly The Spinifex and the Sand. 

 Then he gets on the tracks and sights the arched backs Of his camels of true South Aus. Brand, And with saddle and sack he must hasten to pack For the Spinifex and Sand. 

 From the start until night, till he's sick of the sight, There seem to dance hand in hand A lady so bright, and a green-armoured knight, The Spinifex and the Sand. 

 He turns to his mate with "It gets a bit late, " His mate, he just answers offhand-- "It's the same soon or late, we'll camp 't any rate In the Spinifex and Sand. "

 As the night drags along, a weird-looking throng Fills his dreams of a far-off land, And a voice loud and strong chants the same ceaseless song, Of the SPINIFEX AND THE SAND. 

Since this is one of the few attempts at rhyming that I have been guiltyof, I hope I may be excused for wishing to see it in print, for at thetime I was exceedingly proud of the composition. Ah! well, it served topass the time and afforded some amusement. Soon we had other matters tothink about, for on the 12th we found ourselves on the outskirts ofauriferous country and were lucky in reaching plenty of water. Beinglightly loaded we had made good marches, covering 103 miles from the lastwater on May 8th, an average of twenty and a half miles per day. 

From the 13th to the 21st we camped surrounded by hills, any one of whichmight contain gold if only we could find it. Unremitting labours resultedin nothing but a few colours here and there. We were now thirty miles tothe North-West of Mount Margaret (discovered and named by Forrest in 1869, who on that journey reached a point some sixty miles further East thanthat hill), and though we were the first, so far as I know, to prospectthis particular part of the district, it was reserved for subsequentfossickers to find anything worth having. 

Wandering about, pick in hand, one day I put up several turkeys from thegrass surrounding some granite rocks, and shortly after found theirwatering-place, a nice little pool. The next day whilst Luck prospected Ireturned to the pool with a gun, and, building a hide of bushes, waitedall day. Towards evening two fine emus came stalking along, and I shotone. By the time I had him skinned and the legs cut off it was dark. Amost deceptive bird is an emu, for in reality he has but little meat onhis body. The legs, that is the thighs, are the only parts worth taking, so shouldering these I started for camp a couple of miles off. It waspretty late when I got back, and found Luck ringing a camel-bell violentlyand frequently. He had been a bit anxious at my long absence, and hadtaken a bell off one of the camels to guide me in case I was "bushed. "A party of two is too small for a journey that takes them far fromsettlements for if anything happens to one, the other has little chance byhimself. The man left in camp does not know what to do--if he goes farfrom home, there is the danger of the camp being robbed by natives, therefore he hesitates to go in search of his mate, who possibly is insore need of help from an accident, or bushed, or speared--so many thingsmight happen. If one broke a limb, as he easily might, what could his matedo? Nothing. If in waterless country he would have to leave him, or killhim, or die with him. 

Though Luck and I were spared any catastrophes, we often thought of suchthings, and therefore felt anxious when either was away for long. 

On the 22nd we were surprised at cutting a freshly made dray-track, alongwhich it was clear that many had passed--and the next day arrived at theRed Flag, an alluvial rush that had "set in" during our sojourn in thesand. This came as a great surprise, as we had no idea that gold had beenfound so far afield. This camp, some twelve miles North-East of MountMargaret, consisted then of only forty or fifty men, though others weredaily arriving. These were the first white men we had seen for sevenweeks, and they were greatly astonished to see us, when they learnt whatdirection we had come from. 

Here were gathered together men from Coolgardie and Murchison, attractedby the tales of wealth brought by the first prospectors of the new rush. Some of them had been longer away from civilisation than we had, and manyarguments were held as to the correct date. Of course I knew, because Ikept a diary; but the Queen's Birthday was celebrated by us on the wrongday after all, for I had given April thirty-one days! We heard thathundreds had started for the rush, but this camp represented all who hadpersevered, the rest being scared at the distance. 

This reads funnily now when Mount Margaret is as civilised as Coolgardiewas then, and is connected by telegraph, and possibly will be soonboasting of a railway. The blacks had been very troublesome, "sticking up"swagmen, robbing camps, spearing horses, and the like. It is popularlysupposed that every case of violence on the part of the natives, may betraced to the brutal white man's interference in their familyarrangements. No doubt it does happen that by coming between man and wifea white man stirs up the tribe, and violence results, but in the majorityof cases that I know of, the poor black-fellow has recklessly speared, wounding and killing, prospectors' horses, because he wanted food oramusement. A man does not travel his packhorses into the bush for thephilanthropic purpose of feeding the aboriginals, and naturally resentshis losses and prevents their recurrence in a practical way. 

As a matter of fact, the black population was so small, that even hadevery individual of it been shot, the total would not have reached by along way the indiscriminate slaughter that was supposed to go on in thebush. The people who used to hold their hands up in horror--righteoushorror had the tales been true--at the awful cruelties perpetrated by theprospectors, based their opinions on the foolish "gassing" of a certainstyle of man who thinks to make himself a hero by recounting dark deedsof blood, wholly imaginary. I remember reading a letter to a friend fromhis mother, in which she begged him to take no part in the "nigger huntingexcursions" that she had heard went on in Western Australia. Poor lady!she need not have disturbed herself, for such things never existed, norhad her boy ever seen a black-fellow, except round the slaughter-yards ofCoolgardie!

No luck attended our search in the Mount Margaret district, and we sharedthe opinion of everybody there that it was a "duffer, " and after eventshad proved what that opinion was worth. Travelling and prospecting as wewent, we at last succeeded in finding a reef which we thought was worthhaving. 

May 30th. We made camp amongst some auriferous hills in what is now knownas the Niagara District, and within a few miles of a spot where, subsequently, a rich find of gold was made. Since the natives were knownto be troublesome in this locality, we adopted the plan of one stoppingin camp whilst the other prospected. Formerly we had considered it safefor the one at home to be within reasonable distance of camp, but now, when semi-civilised natives were prowling about, it was unwise to leavethe camp at all. Luck found gold first, but in so small a vein of quartzthat we did not consider it worth working. The next day, however, we"got colours" in a fine big reef, and, moving our belongings to itsvicinity, started prospecting the outcrop. Everywhere we tried we foundgold sprinkled through the stone like pepper, and by "dollying" obtainedgood results. Satisfied with the prospect, the next thing to be done wasto cross-cut the reef to ascertain its thickness and character below thesurface. 

Fortunately water was close to hand, that is to say three miles away, in acreek since named "Dingo Creek. " From there we packed water back to camp, as often as we required it. Our luck in securing game had now deserted us, and we had again to fall back on our nearly diminished stock of mince. 

After a week's hard work we found that with our limited supply of tools, without drills and dynamite, it was impossible to do any farther sinking;besides which the low tide in our provisions necessitated a return tocivilisation before many days. 

I pegged out, therefore, an area of four hundred yards by four hundredyards, as a "protection area"; that is to say, that the fact of fourcorner-pegs and a notice having been put up in some prominent placeprotects the ground from being taken by any one else for a period ofthirty days. After that time has elapsed the area must be applied for atthe nearest Warden's office, where, unless disputed, it is registeredunder the name of the applicant, who must at once commence work upon it. When such work proves the existence of "payable gold" the area must beagain applied for as a lease, to hold which the sum of 1 pound per acre, per annum, must be paid to the Government. There are other conditions withwhich it is necessary to conform, and which need not be enumerated here. 

Since we had ample time to go and return from Coolgardie within theprescribed period, we decided that in place of travelling directhomewards, we would make a detour and visit the locality of Mount Ida, where we had heard gold had been found. By rapid travelling our "tucker"could be made to last out the time. Winter was now coming on, and thenights were bitterly cold. Our blankets in the morning were soaked withdew and frost, and when the days were cloudy and sometimes drizzly we hadno chance of drying them until we built a fire at night. One is so used toreading of the terrible heat in Australia that it may come as a surpriseto many to hear that in the short winter in the interior--which, by theway, is 1, 500 feet above sea level--the thermometer sometimes sinks for abrief period of time to 17 degrees F. 

This low temperature is reached about an hour before daylight, as you knowto your cost, if you are ill-provided with blankets. At that time in themorning your head is drawn into the possum rug, and you lie stiff andshivering until you hear the indescribable something--that heralds thecoming of the sun. It may be a camel moving, as he shakes the frost fromhis woolly coat, it may be a bird, or a grasshopper, but always there issome little noise that would tell even a blind man that the night is over. Often you know by the stars how long it will be before daylight, and stirup the fire, put on the billy, and get the saddles and packs in order. Sometimes you fix on the wrong star, and are thanked accordingly by yourmate when, with his feet in his cold, clammy boots, he discovers that hiswatch reads 2 a. M. Sometimes you have the satisfaction of growling at him, and occasionally, if you feel in very nasty humour, you may lie "dog-oh"and watch his early rising, knowing full well the right time; laughter, however, gives you away, and you are justly rewarded by having theblankets torn off you. Such simple pranks as these make bearable a lifethat would otherwise suffocate you with its monotony. 

And yet there is a charm about the bush--the perfect peace in the "freeair of God"--that so takes hold of some men that they can never be happyanywhere else. Civilisation is a fine thing in its way, but the pettyworries and annoyances, the bustle and excitement, the crowds of people, the "you can't do this, " and "you must do that, " the necessity fordressing in most uncomfortable garments to be like other people, and athousand other such matters, so distress a bushman, who, like a cagedbeast in a menagerie, wanders from corner to corner and cannot find whereto rest, that he longs for the day that he will again be on the track, with all his worldly goods with him and the wide world before him. Sucha man in the bush and in the town is as different as a fish in and out ofwater. 

Some of the finest fellows "outside the tracks" are the least respectablein civilised places, where before long they can find no better occupationthan drinking, which, owing to months of teetotalism in the bush, they areless able to stand than the ordinary individual who takes his beer orspirits daily. And thus it is that bushmen very often get the name ofbeing loafers and drunkards, though on the aggregate they consume far lessliquor than our most respected citizens in the towns. The sudden change insurroundings, good food, and the number of fellow-creatures, the noise oftraffic, and want of exercise--all these combined are apt to affect aman's head, even when unaided by the constant flow of liquor with which apopular bushman is deluged--a deluge hard to resist in a country where torefuse a drink amounts to an insult. A plan recommended by some is to"please 'em all by one jolly good spree, and then knock off and drink withnobody. " A man only gives offence who discriminates in his entertainers. 

I fear I have wandered far from the subject of our journey, for Luck and Ihad some time yet before us until the joys and troubles of civilised lifeshould be ours. The daily routine of travel was varied occasionally byincidents of no great moment; for instance, when riding through the scrub, Omerod, a rather clumsy old camel, tripped and fell, pinning me beneathhim, without injury to either of us; for a water bag acted as a bufferbetween my leg and the saddle, and by the time all the water was squeezedout of it, Luck had the saddle off, and I was extricated. Certainly somecamels are hard to put out or fluster; such a one was Omerod, who laywithout a kick until relieved of his saddle, when he rose and at onceproceeded to feed on the scrub. 

Later, we had another instance of his stolidity; that was when crossinga salt lake. Jenny was light and escaped bogging; not so Omerod, who sankas far as his legs would allow, and there waited calmly until we hadunpacked the loads, carried them across the lake, and returned to helpShimsha, who struggled violently in the sticky clay. When he was safelytaken across to an island on which we sought refuge, Omerod was attendedto. There he lay, half buried in salt mud, chewing his cud unconcernedly;either he had perfect confidence in us, or was indifferent as to hisfate--he looked rather as if he were saying "Kismet. " We had some troublein digging him out, during which operation Luck fared as I had donebefore; he was pinned beneath the camel, waist deep in clay, and in thatposition had to emulate the stolid patience of Omerod until I could dighim out. At last they were both free, and after considerable labour welanded on the island, camels, baggage, and all, just as night fell. We WERE cold too, clothes and arms and faces covered with moist salt clay, and nothing with which to make a fire but sprigs of dead samphire. A coldnight means an early start--so we were up betimes and found that thecamels, not tied, since we thought them safe on an island, had in searchof feed hobbled across the lake, and were standing disconsolate on thissea of mud, afraid to move now that in daylight they could see theirsurroundings. A repetition of the preceding day's performance, landed usbeyond the treacherous lake-bed, and the following day we were fortunatein finding a fine rock-hole of water, which enabled us to reappear aswhite men. 

Mirages are nearly always to be seen on these lakes of the interior, andfrom their occurrence it is impossible to determine the extent of the flatexpanse of mud. On this occasion I witnessed the finest I have ever seen. The hot sun playing upon the damp breeze rising from the lake, transformedthis desolate sea of salt and clay, into a charming picture. The horizonand the sky were joined by a mirage of beautiful clear water, from whichislands and hills seemed to rise; even their shadows and those of thetrees with which they were clothed were reflected in the unruffled surfaceof the lake. The long stretch of sand between, gave the picture theappearance of a peaceful, natural harbour, which the tide was about tofill. 

We were unable to pay more than a flying visit to Mount Ida, butsufficiently long to assure us of the auriferous character of itsneighbourhood. It is quite an imposing hill, rough, dark, and rugged, andformed as if layers of black slate had been thrown violently against eachother. It rises some five hundred feet above the surrounding country. 

We needed all our time to reach Siberia, before our provisions gave out. There we arrived in due course, passing close, on our way, to the hillsnear which Menzies afterwards made his great "find. "

At Siberia a Government survey party, under Messrs. Newman and Brazier, was camped, preparatory to running a line to connect Coolgardie and theMurchison. Bidding them adieu, we took the road to Coolgardie, and arrivedthere on June 22nd after an absence of exactly ninety days, havingtravelled 843 miles. The result of the journey to ourselves was nil, forthe company considered that the reef we had found was too far off, andtook no further steps to develop it. It was afterwards under offer for13, 000 pounds in cash and shares, though whether the deal came off or not, or what the mine was worth, I am not aware. 

The company's representative in Coolgardie welcomed us with greathospitality, and invited us to tea at his camp. Here he produced whisky, and what he told us he considered the very best of tinned meats. "So HELPme never, it's MINCED MUTTON!" shouted poor Luck, as the tin wasopened--a little joke that has never been forgotten. 

It is a rather novel sensation to find that you are dead; and this wasour experience, for the papers had killed us some time since--our boneshad been seen bleaching in the sun, and all that sort of thing. Unfortunately our death was not certain enough to warrant any obituarynotices, which might have been interesting reading. 

On our return to Perth, the manager of the company for which we hadworked, who had arrived in our absence, far from thanking us for havingtried our best, asked why we went into a d----d desert to look for gold!This we considered a little mean, seeing that a great part of the countrywe had traversed had been hitherto unexplored. However, one doesn't lookfor thanks from a mining company. So our journey was finished--a journeythat I shall never look back upon with regret, but with pleasure, for Luckwas a fine fellow and the best of mates; and at least we had thesatisfaction of knowing that if we had been unsuccessful, it was not forthe want of trying. 

PART III SECOND PROSPECTING EXPEDITION

CHAPTER I

THE JOYS OF PORTABLE CONDENSERS

November 8, 1894, was a red-letter day in the history of Coolgardie, foron that date the foundation-stone of the first brick building was laid byMr. James Shaw, the mayor. Under the stone was deposited a specimen ofeach coin of the realm, and these, by the way, were purloined in thenight. This great day was made the occasion for feasting and jubilation, the feasting taking the not uncommon form of a gigantic "Champagne Spree, "to which the whole town was invited. 

When once a wave of inebriety swept over the settlement, something alittle out of the ordinary was likely to occur. Fights and rows would bestarted with the most bloodthirsty intentions, only to end in peace andharmony after the swearing of eternal friendships. A good fight inCoolgardie in those days would attract as much attention as a cab accidentin the streets of London. The well-known cry of "A fight! a fight!" wouldbring the greater part of the population from their dwellings--fromstores, banks, offices, bars, an excited and rushing crowd would hurryto the scene of the fray, all eager to witness a good row; they were not, as a rule, disappointed, for, as one fight usually breeds several, a fairafternoon's or morning's entertainment could be safely counted on. A mining community must have excitement; even a dog-fight would command aconsiderable amount of interest. 

On the celebrated night of the laying of the foundation stone I had thepleasure of witnessing a rough-and-tumble fight between two of the mostpowerful men in Coolgardie. The excitement was intense as one seized hisantagonist, and, using him as a flail, proceeded to clear the room withhim; he retaliated by overpowering the other man, and finally breaking hisleg as they fell heavily together out through the door on to the hardstreet beyond. How much ill-feeling this little incident engendered may bejudged from the fact that the maimed man was employed by his lateadversary as clerk until his limb mended, and subsequently held the billetfor many months. 

It was my misfortune to be engaged in organising a prospecting expeditionat this time--misfortune, because of the impossibility of getting any oneto attend to business. Camels had to be bought, and provisions andequipment attended to. A syndicate had engaged my services and those ofmy two companions whom I had chosen in Perth: Jim Conley, a fine, sturdyAmerican from Kentucky, the one; and Paddy Egan, an Irish-Victorian, theother. Both had been some time on the fields, and Conley had had previousexperience in South Africa and on the Yukon, where he had negotiated thenow famous Chilcoot Pass without realising that it was the tremendous featthat present-day travellers represent it to be. 

There are few men more entertaining than diggers, when one can get them totalk; there is hardly a corner of the habitable globe to which they havenot penetrated. Round a camp-fire one will hear tales of Africa, NewGuinea, New Zealand, Australia, America from Alaska to the Horn, Madagascar, and other strange countries that would be a mine ofinformation to a writer of books of adventure--tales told in the main withtruth and accuracy, and in the quiet, unostentatious manner of thehabitual digger to whom poverty, riches, and hardships come all in theirturn as a matter of course. 

Having chosen my mates, the next thing to be done was to procure beasts ofburden. Of numerous camels submitted for inspection I took three, whichwere subsequently christened "Czar, " "Satan, " and "Misery" respectively;the first from his noble and king-like mien, the second from his wild andexceedingly unpleasant habit of kicking and striking--habits due not tovice but to the nervousness of youth--and the third from his plaintiveremonstrances and sad-eyed looks of reproach as his saddle and load wereplaced on his back. 

The price of a good pack-camel then varied from 60 pounds to 80pounds--and such prices as 100 pounds to 130 pounds were given forfirst-class riding-camels. For South Australian-bred camels, thedescendants of stock originally imported from India by Sir Thomas Eldersome thirty years ago, a higher price was asked than for those broughtinto the Colony direct from Kurrachi; and rightly, for there can be nodoubt but that in size, strength, and endurance, the camel of Australianbirth is far ahead of his old-world cousin. Not only are Indian camelssmaller and less fitted for the heavy work of the interior, but theirliability, until acclimatised, to mange and other diseases makes them mostundesirable acquisitions. 

The near approach of midsummer, and the known scarcity of water, hadinduced me to include in my equipment a portable condenser, by means ofwhich we should convert the brine of the salt lakes into water fit todrink. It seemed an excellent plan and so simple, for lakes abound--onthe maps; and wherever a lake is, there, by digging, will water be found, and thus we should be independent of rock-holes and other precarioussources of supply. Plans so simple on paper do not always "pan out" asconfidently expected and a more odious job, or one which entailed morehard work, than prospecting with condensers I have not had to undertake. "Prospecting" is generally taken to mean searching for gold. In WesternAustralia in the hot weather it resolves itself into a continual battlefor water, with the very unlikely contingency that, in the hunt for adrink, one may fall up against a nugget of gold or a gold-bearing quartzreef. 

On November 10th we made a start from Coolgardie, and, travelling alongthe Twenty-five Mile road for some fifteen miles, we branched off in aneasterly direction, to try some country where I had previously found"colours" of gold, when journeying from Kurnalpi to the Twenty-five Mile. Finding that in the meantime others had been there and pegged out leasesand claims, we passed on and set up our condensers on the "Wind and Water"lake, and began to get an inkling that our job was not to be of thepleasantest. 

More than one hole six to fifteen feet deep had to be sunk before westruck any water. To lessen the labour we at first dug our shafts near themargin of the lake; this proving unsuccessful we were forced further andfurther out, until our efforts were rewarded by a plentiful supply, butalas! some three hundred yards from the shore. This necessitated thecarrying of wood from the margin of the lake to the condensers. Theboilers required constant attention day and night, the fires had to bestoked, and the water stored as it slowly trickled from the cooling tray. Thus the duties of the twenty-four hours consisted in chopping andcarrying wood, watching the condensers, attending to the camels, occasionally sleeping and eating, and prospecting for gold in spare time. I think my readers will readily understand that it was hard indeed to findmuch time to devote to the proper object of the expedition, howeverwilling we were to do so. 

There were one or two others engaged on the same job at that lake, andfrom one party Czar sneaked a cheap drink by thrusting his head throughthe opening in the lid of a large two-hundred-gallon tank. His peculiarposition was specially adapted to the administration of a sound beating, nor did the infuriated owner of the water fail to take advantage of thesituation. 

With our tanks filled and our camels watered, we set forth from the lakeon November 21st, having prospected what country there was in itsimmediate neighbourhood. The heat was intense, and walking, out oftraining as we were, was dry work; our iron casks being new, gave a mostunpleasant zinc taste to the water, which made us all feel sick. Unpleasant as this was, yet it served the useful purpose of checking theconsumption of water. Our route lay past the "Broad Arrow" to a hill thatI took to be Mount Yule, and from there almost due east to Giles'Pinnacles. Our camels were most troublesome; young, nervous, and unusedto us or to each other, they would wander miles during the night, and givetwo of us a walk of three or four miles in the morning; before the day'swork began. Two were not content with merely wandering, but persisted ingoing in one direction, the third in another. 

One morning Conley and Egan were following their tracks each in adifferent quarter. I meanwhile climbed a neighbouring hill to spy out theland ahead, hoping to see the white glitter of a salt lake, for we were inlikely country, ironstone blows, quartz, and diorite giving evidence ofits probable auriferous nature; we were therefore anxious to find water toenable us to test it. On return to camp, after an absence of not more thanhalf an hour, I was astonished to see it surrounded by the tracks ofnumerous "black-fellows. " I guessed they had paid us a visit for no goodpurpose, and was hardly surprised when I found that they had not onlystolen all our flour, but added insult to injury by scattering it aboutthe ground. Not daring to leave the camp, lest in my absence they shouldreturn and take all our provisions, I was unable to follow the thieves, and had to wait in patience the return of the camels. 

So far had they wandered in their hobbles, that by the time we were readyto start the blacks must have gained too great an advantage in distance tomake it worth our while to follow them; nor, since they started off in thedirection from which we had come, was it any use tracking them with thehope of getting water. So we pushed on eastwards, through open forest ofgums, scrubs, and thickets, broken by occasional small plains of saltbush, seeing no signs of water or lake, when presently we entered a belt ofsandy desert--rolling sandhills, spinifex-clad, with occasional thicketsof mulga and mallee. 

Monotonous work it was, dragging the wretched camels for eight to tenhours at a stretch, inciting them to fresh exertions by curses andbeatings, kindness and caresses, in turn. In some respects a camelresembles a bullock; not only does he chew his cud, but he loves to besworn at; no self-respecting ox will do an ounce of work until hisdriver has flung over him a cloud of the most lurid and hair-raisinglanguage. Now, a camel draws the line at blasphemy, but rejoices in theordinary oaths and swear-words of every-day life in much the same way as aretriever. There is no animal more susceptible to kindness than a camel;but in a sandy sea of scrub with the blazing sun almost boiling the water, milk-like from zinc, in the tanks, loads dragged this way and that, boilers and pipes of condensers rolling, now forward, now back, eventuallyto slip clattering down, bearing camel and all to the ground--with theseand other trials kindness was not in us. 

Soon after sunset on the 27th, from the branches of a high gum tree wesighted the Pinnacles almost dead on our course; and late that night wereached the lake, and found to our joy a condenser already established, bymeans of which two men earned a precarious livelihood by selling water totravellers--for these lakes were on the direct track from Kurnalpi to theMount Margaret district. Thus enabled to assuage the seven days' thirst ofthe camels forthwith, at the cost of a shilling per gallon, we lost notime in setting up our own plant, and were fortunate in finding waterand wood easy of access. The next four days were spent in prospecting thesurrounding country, but no gold rewarded our efforts, though numerousreefs and blows of quartz were to be seen in the hills which the lakenearly surrounds. 

Whilst camped here, I took the opportunity of breaking in Satan as ariding-camel, and found him at first a most untameable customer, tryingall sorts of dodges to get the better of me. Twisting round his neck hewould grab at my leg; then, rolling, he would unseat and endeavour to rollon me; finally tiring of these tricks he would gallop off at full speed, and run my leg against a tree, or do his best to sweep me off by anoverhanging branch, until I felt satisfied that he had been rightly named. At last he realised that I was master, and after that I hardly rememberone occasion on which he gave any trouble; for the three years that Iafterwards possessed him, we were the best of friends, and he the mostgentle and biddable of beasts. Alas! that I should have had to end hisdays with a bullet, and leave his bones to be picked by the dingoes of theGreat Sandy Desert. 

Failing to find any gold, and being in need of flour, we made south toKurnalpi, through country flat and uninteresting, and arrived at that campjust in time to secure the last two bags of flour. The town was almostdeserted, and had none of the lively and busy appearance that it presentedwhen I had last seen it. All who saw us praised our equipment andforethought in having portable condensers. I am not quite sure that weagreed with them. 

Hearing that some promising country existed near Lake Roe, I decided tomake for that place, and more particularly for a small rock-hole namedBeri, at the west end of the lake. Very rough, stony hills covered withdense scrub surround Kurnalpi on the south; once across these, flat, opencountry of saltbush and samphire, rapidly changing into salt-swamp, madetravelling easy; passing over another low range of diorite, from which wegot an extensive view of Lake Lapage to the west and Lake Roe to the east, we reached Beri, hitting off the rock with so much accuracy that evenPaddy Egan was surprised into praise of the compass. For some bushmen, beit known, can neither understand nor appreciate the use of a compass, and, being quite capable of finding their way back, are content to wander forthinto the bush with no guide but the sun, taking no notes of the country, no record of their day's march, and making no observations to help eitherthemselves or anybody else; unable to say where they have been, how theygot there, or how they got home again. Some men have a natural instinctfor direction, and I know some who could start, say from Coolgardie, toride seventy miles east and return, then perhaps sixty to the north, andfrom that point ride across to their seventy-mile point with greatease and certainty, having no notion of the distance or point of thecompass. 

A good many prospectors, depending on their black-boys almost entirely, wander from one range of hills to another, dodge here and there for water, keep no count or reckoning, and only return by the help of their guidewhen the "tucker-bags" are empty; others make a practice of standing twosticks in the ground on camping at night, to remind them of the coursethey have travelled during the day and must resume in the morning. To suchmen as these a map or compass is useless and therefore of no value; andyet they are often spoken of by the ignorant as "best bushmen inAustralia. "

In my time I have seen and mixed with most prospectors in the West, and asfar as my experience goes the best bushmen not only use the compass, butkeep a reckoning, rough though it may be, of their day's travel. Such aman is Billy Frost, to quote a well-known name on the goldfields, a manwho has had no chance to learn any of the rudiments of surveying, and whostarted life as a boundary rider on a cattle station. He has shown me anote-book in which he has jotted down directions and distances from water. 

In mountainous country where landmarks are numerous the traveller maymanage it; but no man could travel for any length of time without keepingsome sort of reckoning, in a flat country like the interior of WesternAustralia, where for days together one sees no hill or rise, withoutbefore long becoming hopelessly lost. 

Paddy Egan had been content to travel in this haphazard way, and it waslong before he would acknowledge the benefits of a compass and map. Thathe could travel straight there was no gainsaying, for if, as I sometimesdid, I pointed out our line and sent him ahead, he would go as straight asa die, with now and then a glance at the sun, and a slight alteration inhis course to allow for its altered position, and require but littlecorrection. Indeed, even when using a compass, one instinctively pays asmuch and more attention to the sun or the stars, as the case may be. 

The rock-hole at Beri was dry, so we pushed on for Lake Roe, and, thoughwe worked sinking holes until past midnight, and nearly the whole of thenext day, we were unable to find water. It was only salt water weexpected, but a stiff pipeclay, continuing to a depth too great for ourlimited means of sinking, baffled all our efforts. I followed the lakesome six miles to the eastward, carrying a shovel and digging trial holesat intervals, but this pipeclay foiled me everywhere. 

I do not know how far this lake runs east, and fancy its limits have neverbeen laid down on the map; not that there is anything sufficientlyinviting in its appearance--the usual flat expanse of mud, with banks ofsand fringed with low straggling mallee and spinifex--to warrant furtherinvestigation. 

Lake Roe having failed us, we turned on our tracks for the nearest pointof Lake Lapage, some nine miles distant. Here we were more fortunate, andobtained a splendid supply of salt water at a depth of only three feet. Timber was not easily got--that would have been too much joy! It had tobe carried nearly half a mile on our shoulders, for the camels, havingtravelled all day, deserved a rest. The condensers worked well, now thatwe had had some experience, and produced water at the rate of four gallonsan hour. With our casks replenished and our camels filled, leaving thecondenser standing, we turned south to some hills that were visible; weintended to be absent for four days, at the end of which the camels wouldagain require water, as the weather was exceedingly hot. 

Nothing of interest was met with until we came upon a huge wall-like reef, standing some fifteen or twenty feet above the ground, from ten to twentyfeet wide, and running almost due north and south for nearly five miles, without a break of appreciable extent, as we subsequently found. Breakingthe quartz at intervals, hoping at each blow of the pick to see thelonged-for colours, we followed this curious natural wall, and finallycamped, sheltered by it from the wind. A violent storm of dust, wind, thunder, and lightning swept over us that night, tearing the "fly" we hadpitched, in the vain expectation of rain, into ribbons. 

Leaving the others to continue prospecting, I turned my steps, or ratherthose of Satan, whom I was riding, towards Cowarna, a large granite rock, some fourteen miles distant, and due south from our camp, if I hadreckoned our position on the map correctly. Twelve miles of open forest, alternating with scrubby thickets, brought me to the edge of a fine littleplain of saltbush and grass, from the centre of which a bare rock ofgranite stood out. Arrived at the rock, I hunted long and diligently forwater. Numerous rock-holes were to be seen, but all were dry, and my hopesof making this our base from which to prospect in various directions wereat first short-lived; but before long I was overjoyed to hear thetwittering of a little flock of Diamond sparrows--a nearly certain signthat water must be handy; and sure enough I found their supply at thebottom of a narrow, round hole, down which I could just stretch my arm. 

CHAPTER II

GRANITE ROCKS, "NAMMA HOLES, " AND "SOAKS"

At this point it may not be amiss to give a short description of thesepeculiar outcrops of granite, without which the track from York toCoolgardie could never have been kept open, nor the place discovered, norcould its early inhabitants have supported life before the condensingplant came into general use. 

The interior of the Colony, between the coast and a point some hundredmiles east of Coolgardie, is traversed by parallel belts of granite, running in a general direction of north-north-west and south-south-east. This granite crops out above the surface, at intervals of from ten totwenty or thirty miles, sometimes in the form of an isolated barren rock, and sometimes as low ranges and hills several miles in extent. From themsmall creeks, and sometimes larger watercourses, run down, to find theirway into the stony and gravelly debris which usually surrounds the rocks. Much of what little rain does fall is absorbed by the trees and scrub, and much is taken by the sun's heat, so that a very small proportion cansink below the surface soil, and only when there is some underground basinin the rock beneath will water be found by sinking, except immediatelyafter rain. 

Round the granite base a belt of grass of no great extent may be found, for the most part dry and yellow, but in places green and fresh. It is insuch spots as these that one may hope to tap an underground reservoir inthe rock. To these shallow wells has been given the name of "Soaks. "They seldom exceed fifteen feet in depth, though similar subterraneanbasins have been tapped by a well perhaps a hundred feet deep, sunk somedistance from the foot of the outcrop. A good soak will stand a heavydrain for perhaps months, but not having its origin in a spring the supplyultimately ceases. 

The soil, being alluvial, is in most cases easy to dig, and when the bedrock is reached it becomes an open question whether to go deeper into thedecomposed rock or to be content with what supply has been struck. Many agood soak has been ruined by a too ambitious worker, who, after infinitetoil, may see his priceless fluid disappear down some hidden crackbeneath. Native soaks dug out with sticks and wooden "coolimans"--smalltroughs used as spades or as a means of carrying seeds, water, orgame--are by no means uncommon, and, when holding water, are easily mademore serviceable by throwing out a few shovelsful of sticks, stones, andsand, with which they are generally choked. Often the weary traveller hasno such lucky help, and must set to work to dig a soak for himself and histhirsty beasts--against time, too, in a blazing sun, without thecomforting knowledge that there is any certainty of finding water. I donot know of any case when a party has actually perished at the mouth ofa waterless soak, but in many instances water has been struck when allhope had been given up. The skeletons and carcasses of camels and horsestell a tale of suffering that no man who has travelled can look atunmoved, and go to show that many a beast of burden has been lessfortunate than his masters. 

With what eager anxiety the shovelsful are watched, when the expected"bottom" is nearly reached, by man and beast alike, who, utterly weary andabsolutely parched, know that they are soon to learn their fate. Thehorses snort and plunge in eager and impatient expectation, whilst thepatient camel contents himself with grunts and moans, though, as his kneesare probably strapped beneath him, he cannot protest more forcibly. Atlength, perhaps, all are rewarded by the welcome sight of a tiny tricklein one corner, or perhaps the hole turns out a "duffer, " and the weary, weary work must be commenced again in a fresh spot. 

In many cases these granite rocks have been utilised as a catchment areafor tanks, into which the water is led by drains, which encircle the footof the outcrop. Before the railway was built, such tanks, sunk byGovernment along the Southern Cross-Coolgardie track, enabled teamsters tobring their horses through with safety, which would otherwise have beenimpossible at some seasons of the year. 

I append a table showing cost and contents of Government tanks excavatedat the base of granite rocks between Southern Cross and Coolgardie:--

 Name of Reservoir. Cost (pounds). Contents in Cost per Million Gallons. Gallons (pounds). Reen's Soak 3, 246 900, 000 3, 607 Kararawalgee 2, 947 1, 250, 000 2, 858 Boorabbin 3, 025 900, 000 3, 461 Woolgangee 3, 825 1, 2501000 3, 100 Bullabulling 4, 118 1, 250, 000 3, 294 Coolgardie (No, 1) 1, 167 800, 000 1, 454 Coolgardie (No. 2) 2, 110 1, 400, 000 1, 503 Halgoorlie (half-way) 1, 266 500, 000 2, 532 Kalgoorlie. . . 1, 554 500, 000 3, 108 Twenty-five Mile Tank 1, 881 500, 000 3, 762 Forty Mile Tank 1, 546 500, 000 3, 092 Colreavy's Tank 2, 193 997, 000 2, 199

The above table will give some idea of the enormous expense entailed bythe opening up of the interior. In addition to these, wells and bores wereput down, many of which failed to strike water. 

Ever-thoughtful Nature has provided, on the surface of the "granites, "small reservoirs which, after rain, may, in some cases, hold many hundredgallons of water. The Rock--or Namma-holes (I presume "Namma" is a nativename, but of this I am uncertain) are usually more or less conical inshape, and vary in depth from a few inches to twenty feet, and in diameterfrom half a foot to several. Their sides are smooth, and slope down to arounded bottom, where stones are often found which would suggest that theyhave had something to do with the formation of these peculiar holes. Beneath a hard surface layer the rock becomes decomposed and comparativelysoft; and doubtless the rain of countless ages collecting round thestones, once on the surface and now found at the bottom of the holes, hasat length weathered away the rock, and so by slow degrees the stonehas ground out an ever-increasing hollow. I am neither geologist nordentist, but I have often likened in my mind the formation of theNamma-holes to the gradual hollow formed by decay in a tooth. Whatevertheir history, their use is unquestionable--not so the flavour of theircontents; for every bird or beast coming to water will leave some tracesbehind, and the natives, to prevent evaporation, throw in sticks, stones, and grass. Such a collection of rubbish and filth might naturally besupposed to render the water unhealthy, but apparently this is not thecase, for we have often been forced to drink water, which, incivilisation would be thought only fit to be used as manure for thegarden, without any injury to health or digestion. Patient search over thewhole surface of the rock is the usual method for finding rock-holes, though sometimes the pads of wallabies, kangaroos, or emus, may serve as aguide to them, but game is so scarce that a man must usually trust to hisown observation. Sometimes their existence may be detected from a distanceby the patch of rock round the mouth showing white, owing to its beingworn by the feet of birds and animals. 

A typical rock was the high, barren "Cowarna, " and one that after rainwould store in its depressions a plentiful supply of the life-givingwater. Thankful for small mercies, I made the best of a bad job, and, having no dish or bucket from which to give Satan a drink, I was obligedto make him lie down close to the narrow hole, whilst into his willingthroat I poured the water which at arm's length I scooped up with myquart pot. This tedious process finished, I still had a potful at mydisposal, so, taking a long drink myself, I stripped off my clothes andindulged in a shower bath, Not a luxurious bathe certainly, and a largersupply would have been acceptable, but every little helps, and even a fewdrops of fresh water have a pleasant effect on one's body made sticky bythe salt of the water from the lakes, and serve to remind the travellerthat he has once been clean. 

Leaving the rock at sundown I travelled well into the night, for progresswas slow through the scrub and trees in the darkness, but little relievedby the light of a waning moon. Feeling sure that I had gone far enough, I was preparing to rest awhile and find our camp in the morning, when thewelcome glow of a fire shot up through the branches. Jim and Paddy, withcharacteristic thought and resource, had climbed to the top of two talland dead gum trees and there built fires, fanned by the fierce draughtthrough the hollow trunks, knowing well at what a short distance a fire onthe ground is visible in this flat country. During my absence they hadfound no gold, but, as they liked the look of the country, we decided toreturn to our condensers for a fresh supply of water. Having obtainedthis, Egan and I revisited our previous prospecting ground, leaving Jimbehind to "cook" water against our return; and a more uninterestingoccupation I cannot well picture. Camped alone on a spit of sand, surrounded by a flat expanse of mud, broiled by the sun, half blinded bythe glare of the salt, with no shade but a blanket thrown over a roughscreen of branches, and nothing to do but to stoke up the fires, changethe water in the cooling-trough, and blow off the salt from the bottom ofthe boilers, he was hardly to be envied. Yet Jim cheerfully undertook thejob and greeted us on our return, after four days, with the smiling remarkthat his work had been varied by the necessity of plugging up the bottomof one of the boilers which had burned through, with a compound (a patentof his own) formed from strips of his shirt soaked in a stiff paste offlour. That night we were astonished by the passage of a flight of ducksover our heads, which Egan saw, and I and Conley heard distinctly. 

A detailed account of our wanderings would be as wearying to the reader asthey were to ourselves, a mere monotonous repetition of cooking water andhunting for "colours" which we never found. Christmas Eve, 1894, saw us inthe vicinity of Mount Monger, where a few men were working on an alluvialpatch and getting a little gold. A lucky storm had filled a deep clay-holeon the flat running north-west from the hills, and here we were at lastenabled to give the camels a cheap drink; for over six weeks we had notseen a drop of fresh water beyond what, with infinite labour, we hadcondensed, with the one exception of the small rock-hole I found atCowarna. My entry in my journal for Christmas Day is short and sweet:"Xmas Day, 1894. Wash clothes. Write diary. Plot course. " We had noChristmas fare to make our hearts glad and but for the fortunate arrivalof my old friend David Wilson, who gave us a couple of packets ofcornflour, would have had a scanty feast indeed. 

Even in the remote little mining camp Santa Claus did not forget us, andspread his presents, in the form of a deluge of rain, on all alike. What apleasant change to get thoroughly wet through! The storm hardly lastedtwenty minutes, but such was its violence that every little creek andwatercourse was soon running, and water for weeks to come was secured andplentiful in all directions; but so local is a summer storm that fivemiles from the camp, no water or signs of rain were to be seen. Ourprovisions being finished, nothing remained but to make all speed forCoolgardie, some fifty miles distant by road. Unencumbered by thecondensers, which were abandoned as useless since the bottom of bothboilers had burned through, we made fair time, reaching a goodcamping-ground two miles from the town on the evening of the second day, the 30th of December. 

CHAPTER III

A FRESH START

Four days sufficed to make preparations for another trip, to hear and readthe news, and write letters. My first, of course, was to my Syndicate, toreport our past movements and future plans, and how I intended makingnorthward, hoping that change of direction would change our luck. 

January 4th we set out with the same three camels, and rations for threemonths. My plan was first to revisit some known good country to the southof Hannan's, and, if unsuccessful, to travel from that point in a more orless north-north-west direction, and so follow, instead of crossing, thetrend of the various formations; for in travelling from east to west, orVICE VERSA, one crosses a succession of parallel belts, first asand-plain, then a ridge of granite, next a timbered flat, then a stretchof auriferous country, with possibly a belt of flat salt-lake country oneither side. Since these parallel belts run nearly north-north-west, itseemed to the mind of the untrained geologist that by starting in a knownauriferous zone, and travelling along it in a north-north-west direction, the chances of being all the time in auriferous country would beincreased, and the plan worth trying. 

Passing the homestead of the Hampton Plains Land Company, where I wasgiven valuable information and a map by the courteous and kind manager, Mr. Anderson (now alas! dead, a victim to the typhoid scourge), wecontinued on the Lake Lefroy road as far as the Fourteen Mile rock-hole. This contained water, but so foul that the camels would not look at it. Nor were we more successful in our next water-hole, for it contained adead horse. Leading to this Namma-hole, which was prettily situated on alow rock at the foot of a rough, broken ridge of granite, surrounded bygreen and shady kurrajongs, we found a curious little avenue of stones. These were piled up into heaps laid in two parallel rows, and at intervalsbetween the heaps would be a large boulder; evidently this was the work ofaboriginals, but what meaning to attach to it we could not think. Thebeginning of our journey promised well for water, for we were againfavoured by a local thunderstorm which, in clay-pans and swamps, left aplentiful supply. Mr. Anderson had told me of some hills in which he hadfound gold in small quantities, and sure enough wherever we tried a "dishof dirt, " colours were sure to result. A pleasant camp was this, plenty ofwater, numberless quartz reefs, every prospect of finding payable gold, and feed of the best kind in profusion--a welcome change for our beasts. They were shedding the last of their winter coats, and, as the weather washot, I hastened the transformation by pulling off great flakes of woolwith which Egan stuffed one of the saddles. Poor Misery had anuncomfortable experience here in consequence of catching the rings of hishobble-chain in the broken stump of a bush, so that he was held captiveall night. 

The advance of civilisation was marked by the appearance of a small herdof bullocks, evidently stragglers from "Hannan's, " and had we been furtherfrom that place I do not doubt that our desire for fresh beef might haveovercome our conscientious scruples. Virtue, however, was rewarded, for onawakening one morning I saw advancing towards our camp, with slow andsolemn curiosity, two emus, peering now this way, now that, examining ourpacks and other gear with interest and delight. Choosing the younger bird, I took aim with my Winchester, and dropped him; the report of the riflestartled my companions from their sleep with the thought that we wereperhaps attacked by the blacks, for emus are even less numerous than they. But their surprise was not greater than that of the surviving bird, as hegazed spellbound at his dead mate, whom we found most excellent eating. Great as the temptation was to have a shot at the remaining bird, Iresisted it, as from the one we could get sufficient meat for ourrequirements, and it seemed a shame to take the life, for mere pleasure, of the only wild creature we had seen for many weeks. 

Tiring at length of prospecting reefs, blows, and alluvial with no betterresult than an occasional pin's-head of gold, we turned our faces to thenorth, passing again the herd of cattle wallowing in the swamps and pansof rain water. 

Clay-pans usually occur in the neighbourhood of salt lakes, and are merelyshallow depressions with smooth clay bottoms. Though as a rule not morethan a few inches to a foot in depth, I have seen them in places holdingfour to five feet of water. Immediately after rain all clay-pans arefresh, before long some will turn salt; those containing drinkable waterare often distinguishable by the growth of cane grass which covers thebed, a coarse, rush-like grass of no value as food for stock. Dry forthree-quarters of the year, these pans, with their impervious bottoms, hold the rain, when it fills them, for a considerable period. 

Salt-water pans are pellucid and clear, as the inexperienced may find athis cost. One thirsty day, having tramped many miles horse-hunting, deceived by a crystal-clear sheet of water, I plunged in my head andhands, and, before I realised my mistake, took a deep draught with mostunpleasant results. I have been more careful since that catastrophe. Aneffective method of clearing muddy clay-pan water is by dropping into it asort of powdery gypsum, called "Kopi" by the natives, which is usually tobe found round the margin of the salt lakes--a wonderful provisionof Nature, without which the water after a short time would be useless, becoming as it does red and thick, and of the consistency of strong cocoa. Amongst the many industries started on the goldfields is the noveloccupation of clearing clay-water for salt. The process was carried out bymeans of a series of settling tanks, into which the water was led bydrains, and into the last tank the kopi was thrown; the cleared water wasthen bailed into vessels or casks, and carted up to whatever mining campwas being thus supplied. 

Whilst on the subject of industries, I may mention that of obtainingsolder from meat-tins by piling them into large heaps and lighting a fireover them. The melted lumps of solder thus formed were collected by theordinary process of dry-blowing, and sold to tinsmiths and others engagedin the manufacture of condensers. Certainly the scarcity of water was notan unmixed curse, for it gave employment to many who would otherwise havebeen hard put to it to gain a living. Dam-makers, well-sinkers, water-carters, tinsmiths, condenser-fitters, wood-cutters, employees oncondensing plants, water-bag makers, caretakers at Government wells, dams, and soaks, engineers, and many more, all found employment either directlyor indirectly in connection with water supply. 

By sinking in the bed of dry clay-pans water can usually be obtained, butunfortunately it is almost sure to be salt. The difference betweenclay-pans before and after rain is most marked. First we have the dry, hard bed of red clay, blistered and cracked into all manner of patterns bythe sun's heat; around us the stillness of death, nothing astir unless itbe the constant shimmering haze of heat which strikes our faces like theblast from a furnace. Rain falls, and within a few hours the air will befilled with the croaking of frogs and the cackling of ducks. * To my mindit is one of the most incomprehensible things in Nature that wildfowl(for not only ducks, but sometimes swans and geese are seen) know when andwhere rain has fallen. 

[* Sir John Forrest, in his exploration of 1874, found ducks, geese, andswans on Lake Augusta--a salt lake in the arid interior, five hundredmiles from the coast. ]

But, stranger still, how do they know it is going to fall? That they wouldseem to do so the following will go to show. Whilst we were condensing onLake Lapage, one moonlight night we saw a flight of ducks fly over us tothe northward. No surface water then existed anywhere near us. This was onDecember 16th. No rain fell in the district until December 25th, but Iascertained afterwards that rain fell at Lake Carey, one hundred milesnorth of Lake Lapage about the same date that we had seen the ducks. Theexact date I am not sure of, but in any case the ducks either foresaw therain or knew that rain had fallen at least two hundred miles away; forthey must have come from water (and at that season there was no surfacewater within one hundred miles of us) and probably from the coast. Ineither case, I think it is an extremely interesting fact, and however theyarrive the ducks are a welcome addition to the prospector's "tucker-bags. "

CHAPTER IV

A CAMEL FIGHT

Leaving Hannan's on our left, we continued our northerly course, over flatcountry timbered with the usual gum-forest, until we reached theauriferous country in which our camp had been robbed by the blacks;nothing of interest occurring until January 17th, when we found ourselveswithout water. Knowing that we must soon strike the road from Broad Arrowto Mount Margaret, this gave us no anxiety, and, beyond the necessity oftravelling without having had a drink for eighteen hours, but littlediscomfort. 

We struck the road as expected, and, following it some five miles, came toa small, dry creek running down from a broken range of granite. Sinking inits bed, we got a plentiful supply. Mosquitoes are very rarely found inthe interior, but on this little creek they swarmed, and could only bekept away by fires of sticks and grass, in the smoke of which we slept. 

From the granite hills a fine view to the eastward was obtained, across arich little plain of saltbush and grass, and dotted here and there over itwas a native peach tree, or "quondong, " a species of sandalwood. We hadnow left the timber behind us, its place being taken by a low, stragglingscrub of acacia, generally known as "Mulga, " which continues in almostunbroken monotony for nearly two hundred miles; the only change in thelandscape is where low cliffs of sandstone and ranges of granite, slate, or diorite, crop up, from which creeks and watercourses find their wayinto salt swamps and lakes; and occasional stretches of plain country. 

Through these thickets we held on our course, passing variouswatering-places and rocks on the several roads leading to the then popularfield of Mount Margaret. 

All such rocks bear names given to them by travellers and diggers, thoughone can seldom trace the origin or author of the name, "Black Gin Soak, ""George Withers' Hole, " "The Dead Horse Rocks, " and the "Donkey Rocks, "are fair samples. 

It was at the last named that we had a slight entertainment in the shapeof a camel-fight. On arrival we found another camel-man (i. E. , a man whoprospects with camels instead of horses, not necessarily a camel-driver)in whose train was a large white bull. Misery, with his usual precocity, at once began to show fight. The owner of the white camel, a gentlemanmuch given to "blowing, " warned me that his bull was the "strongest inthe ---- country, " and advised me to keep my camels away. Anxious to seehow Misery would shape in a genuine bout, I paid no heed, but took theprecaution to remove his hobbles, thus placing him on equal terms with hisolder and stronger adversary. 

Before very long they were at it hammer and tongs, roaring and grunting tothe music of the bells on their necks; wrestling and struggling, usingtheir great long necks as flails, now one down on his knees and almostturned over, and now the other, taking every opportunity of doing whatdamage they could with their powerful jaws, they formed a strange picture. Misery was nearly exhausted, and the white bull's master in triumphshouted, "Take 'em off, beat 'em off; your ---- camel'll be chewed up!"But no! With a last expiring effort, brave little Misery dived his longneck under the body of his enemy, and grabbed his hind leg by the fetlock, when a powerful twist turned him over as neatly as could be. It was nowtime for us to interfere before the white bull's head was crushed by hisconqueror's knees and breast-bone. With sticks and stones we drove himoff, and the white bull retired abashed--but not more so than his master. 

Leaving the rocks in possession of our late adversary we once more plungedinto the scrub, altering our course to the west with the object ofrevisiting the country around Mount Ida, where Luck and I had foundcolours. Our way lay between salt lakes on our left, and a low terrace ortableland of what is locally known as "conglomerate" on our right. At thehead of a gully running from this we were fortunate in finding water, sufficient to fill our casks, and give each camel a drink. This was on themorning of January 25th, and until the 31st about noon we saw no furthersigns of water. Every likely place was dry. Where Luck and I had foundwater before, not a drop of moisture could be seen; the holes containednothing but the feathers and skeletons of disappointed birds. Unable tostop at Mount Ida without packing water twenty-five miles, which theprospects of the country did not warrant, we turned northwards across muchbroken granite country, which we vainly searched for Namma-holes or soaks. Far ahead of us we could see sharp pinnacles, standing up high andsolitary above the scrub. These turned out to be huge blows of whitequartz, and were no doubt connected underground, for we traced them adistance of nearly thirty miles. Interesting as these were, our thoughtswere turned to water-hunting, for the weather--the season beingmidsummer--was scorching; the poor camels, sore-footed from the stonygranite, parched with thirst, and forced to carry their loads, eight totwelve hours a day, showed signs of distress. Weary and footsoreourselves, tramping at full speed all day over the burning rocks, one withthe camels, the others on either hand, scouting, our casks all but empty, our position was not enviable. 

The night of the 30th our water was finished. The nearest known to us wasthirty-five miles off, and a a salt lake was between--a sufficient bar toour hopes in that direction. Matters were by no means desperate, however, for thirty miles north we were bound to cut the Cue-Mount Margaret road, and having done so it would be merely a question of time, with a certaintyof arriving at a watering place eventually, if we and our camels couldhold out. A dry stage, however long, with the certainty of relief at theend of it, gives little cause for anxiety when compared with one on whichneither the position nor even the existence of water can be known. 

Next morning we followed up a small creek, and on crossing saw the tracksof several kangaroos and emus making towards two peaks of quartz. Here wasour chance. It was my place of course to go, but I yielded to thepersuasion of Paddy and Jim, who insisted that I had denied myself waterto eke out our scanty supply (though I doubt if I had done so more thanthey), and must rest. So, putting the camels down in the welcome shade ofa kurrajong, I lay down beside them and was presently relieved by thesound of a revolver-shot, our signal that water was found. 

What a beautiful sight it was! Nestling in the hollow between two greatwhite blows of quartz, this little pool of crystal-clear water, filledevidently by a little gully falling over a steep ledge of quartz beyond, presented no doubt a pretty picture after the rains. A soakage it must be, for no open rock-hole could hold water in such terrible heat; and itsclearness would suggest the possibility of an underlying spring. A populardrinking-place this, frequented by birds of all kinds, crows, hawks, pigeons, galahs, wee-jugglers, and the ubiquitous diamond-sparrows. Duringthe night we could hear wallabies hopping along, but were too worn out tosit up to shoot them. Though our sufferings had not been great, we had hada "bit of a doing. "

One day's rest, occupied in various mendings of clothes, boots, andsaddles, and we were off again to the north, cutting the track asexpected, and presently found ourselves at the newly established miningcamp of Lawlers, prettily situated on the banks of a gum-creek, with acopious supply of water in wells sunk in its bed. A great advantage thatthe northern fields have over those further south is the occurrence ofnumerous creeks, sometimes traceable for over thirty miles, in all ofwhich an abundance of fresh water can be obtained by sinking at depthsvarying from fifteen to fifty feet. 

Towards the end of their course the well-defined channels, with bankssometimes ten feet high, disappear, giving place to a grassy avenuethrough the scrub, lightly timbered with cork-bark, and other small trees. It is on such flats as these that the wells are sunk. All creeks findtheir way into the lakes, though seldom by a discernible channel, breakingand making, as the expression is, until a narrow arm of the lake stretchesto meet them. At the most these creeks run "a banker" three times duringthe year, the water flowing for perhaps three days; after which pools ofvarious sizes remain, to be in their turn dried up by evaporation andsoakage. In the dry weather the creeks afford a weird spectacle. Statelywhite gums (the only timber of any size in these districts), with theirsilvery bark hanging in dishevelled shreds around the branchless stems, bend ghost-like over an undulating bed of gravel; gravel made up ofironstone pebbles, quartz fragments, and other water-worn debris washeddown from the hills at the head of the creeks. 

What a marvellous transformation the winter rains cause! It is then thatthe expert, or journalist, takes his walks abroad; it is then that we readsuch glowing accounts of rich grass lands, watered by countless creeks, only awaiting the coming of an agriculturist to be turned into smilingfarms and fertile fields. 

Numerous parties were camped at Lawlers, with some two hundred horsesturned out in the bush, waiting until rain should fall. Though with nobetter feed than grass, dry and withered, the freedom from work had madethem skittish. What a pretty sight it is to see a mob of horses troopingin for water at night; the young colts kicking up their heels withdelight; the solemn old packhorse looking with scorn on the gambols of hisjuvenile brethren, with a shake of his hardy old head, as much as to say, "Ah! wait till you've done the dry stages that I have; wait till you makeyour evening feed off mulga scrub and bark--that'll take the buck out ofyou! Why can't you have your drink soberly, instead of dancing about allover the place?"

Then bringing up the rear, far behind, just emerging from the scrub, areseen those who, from their wandering habits, must wear the bracelets, hurrying and shuffling along with a rattle of chains, tripping up in theireagerness to be even with their mates in the scramble for water: presentlythey pause to look about and neigh--a delay resented by those behind by afriendly bite, answered by a kick; which starts them all off at fullgallop, in the approved rocking-horse style, with a tremendous clatter ofhobbles and bells. Suddenly they halt, snorting, and as suddenly startaside, wheel round, and dash away, as they catch sight of our long-neckedbeasts. They have seen them often enough, and know them well, but theymust keep up an appearance of panic, if only to please their masters, whonever cease to jeer at the ungainly shape of the camel, until they possessone themselves. These unemotional animals watch the horses' play with lipsturned up in derision, and hardly deign to move their heads from the bushor branch on which they are feeding. Many of the prospectors, thoughopenly sneering at the camels as slow and unmanageable beasts, secretlyenvied us our ability to travel in hot weather, whilst they had nothing todo but to kick their heels and be thankful they had feed and water fortheir ponies. And they envied us all the more on account of the vaguerumour that rich gold had been found in the neighbourhood of Lake Darlot, towards which some had pushed out only to be driven back by thirst. Seeingour evident advantage, should the rumour prove correct, in being able toget there before the crowd, I decided to steer for the lake, with the hopeof picking up the tracks of the supposed lucky diggers. 

A large creek, the Erlistoun, was given on the chart as running into thelake, and on it was marked by the discoverer Mr. Wells, of the ElderExploring Expedition, 1892, a permanent pool. To cut this creek was myobject, and, by following its course, to find the pool, and there make abase from which to investigate the truth of the rumour. 

Leaving Lawlers February 7th we struck an arm of the lake on the 10ththe country traversed being mostly sand plain, timbered with desert-gum. To reach the creek it was necessary to cross the lake; and what a job wehad, twisting and turning to avoid one arm, only to be checked by another;carrying packs and saddles across what we supposed to be the main lake, only to find ourselves on an island. All things have an end, even theramifications of a salt lake, and eventually we and our mud-plasteredcamels found ourselves on the northern shore; and travelling east, expected confidently to cut the Erlistoun creek. By its position on themap we should have already crossed it but to make sure we went on fivemiles more, when our passage was barred by another salt lake not marked onthe chart. It was clear that the creek did not reach Lake Darlot. Wherecould it be? Was it worth while to look for it further? It was evident howit came to be so shown on the map. Mr. Wells had cut the creek near itssource and seeing only one lake to the south, naturally supposed thatit was joined by the creek, and so had marked its probable course by adotted line. His work, copied on to other maps had been carelessly drawn, and the creek shown running in a defined channel into Lake Darlot. Thatthis was the case I found afterwards on studying his original chart. 

Now to decide our best course! Again our supply was all but done, but weknew of no water save Lawlers, sixty miles away, and to attempt to returnto that, recrossing the lake was manifestly absurd. To the south-west wecould see some hills which might or might not be granite. We were inclinedto think that they were, as in the setting sun of a few nights before theyhad taken a ruddy glow. These rocks appeared to be our only chance. 

It has always seemed to me better in such cases to make people followone's own wishes by seeming to consult theirs, rather than by a directorder. Acting on this plan, though with my own mind made up, I consultedwith my two mates. I felt sure that Jim would agree with me, from a remarkhe had made to a mutual friend to the effect that "he would follow me toh--l. " Of paddy I was not so sure; nor was I mistaken. He stronglyadvised turning back, but, having agreed to abide by the majority, said nomore, and so to the hills we turned our steps. 

Our hopes that the two lakes were separate were soon shattered, for beforeus lay a narrow neck connecting the two. There was nothing for it but togo straight ahead. The lightest-packed camel crossed without mischance, but not so the other two; down they went, too weak to struggle, and againthe toil of digging them out, and driving and hauling them foot by foot, had to be gone through. Then the packs had to be carried piece by piece, for we sank too deep in the sticky mud with a heavy load, and our wearylegs had to be dragged step after step from the bog. Hungry and thirsty, blistered by the glare of the salt in the pitiless sun, we struggled on, with a wondering thought of what the end would be. 

Think of us, picture us, ye city magnates, toiling and struggling thatyour capacious pockets may be filled by the fruits of our labour: think ofus, I say, and remember that our experiences are but as those of manymore, and that hardly a mine, out of which you have made all the profit, has been found without similar hardships and battles for life! Not apenny would you have made from the wealth of West Australia but for usprospectors--and what do we get for our pains? A share in the bare sale ofthe mine if lucky; if not, God help us! for nothing but curses andcomplaints will be our portion. The natural rejoinder to this is, "Why, then, do you go?" To which I can only answer that one must make a livingsomehow, and that some like to make money hard, and some to make iteasily. Perhaps I belong to the former class. 

Whatever the reason, the fact remains that in the heat of the summer wewere ploughing our way through salt-bogs, without water or any immediateprospect of getting any, and realised, not for the first time, that theprospector's life in West Australia is not "all beer and skittles. "

The lake negotiated, we decided to rest under the scanty shade of a mulgatree, and regaled ourselves on oatmeal washed down with a mouthful ofwater, the last, hot from the iron casks. At a time when water isplentiful it can be carried and kept cool in canvas bags; but it owesthis coolness to evaporation, and consequent waste of water. During thehot weather, when water is scarce, I never allowed canvas bags to be used, and so saved water, not only by avoiding evaporation, but from the factthat water carried in galvanised-iron casks becomes so hot and unpalatablethat one is not tempted to take a big draught, and thus the supply is ekedout. 

That night we camped in the thick mulga, and from one of the larger treesI could see the hills, dead on our course, and not more than two milesoff. But we were too tired to go further that night, and in any case couldhave done but little good in the dark. The poor camels were too dry toeat the mulga we cut for them, too dry even to chew the cud; and laysilent, tied down beside us--the stillness of the night being unbroken bythe rhythmical "crunch" of their jaws. 

Before sunrise we were packed and away, and shortly reached the hillswhich we found to be, as we had hoped, bare granite rocks. Leaving thecamels, we spread out, and searched every hole and corner without success. Every rock-hole was dry. One native soak we found, from which we scrapedabout half gallon of water none too clear, and the less tempting from theclose proximity of the dead body of a gin, a young native woman, fortunately not long dead. The ashes of a native camp but lately deserted, could be seen close by; no doubt they had moved off as the supply of waterwas so nearly done. Whether they had left the body to become a skeleton, before making a bundle of the bones (a practice common to some Australiantribes), or whether it is their usual custom to leave the dead where theydie, I do not know. I know, however, that this body was subsequentlymoved, not by the blacks, but by those snarling scavengers, the dingoes. 

This finding of a corpse at the mouth of the only soak we had seen washardly encouraging; but still there was a large extent of rocks that wehad not yet visited. Shortly before sunset, as I stood on the summit ofthe highest rock, I was astonished by the sight of some horses grazing ina little valley beneath. I could hardly believe that I saw aright; itseemed incredible that horsemen should have reached this drought-begirtspot. Little time was wasted in idle speculation, and the appearance ofour camels soon proved the horses to be flesh and blood, and not merephantoms of the brain, unless indeed phantoms can snort and plunge!

The owner of the horses soon made his appearance, and, with reluctantresignation, showed us the soak from which his horses were watered. He andhis mates, he said, were sinking for water in a likely spot some half-mileaway; in the meantime they used the soak, though it was evident it wouldnot last much longer. We must have water for our camels, and must use thesoak, I said, until their thirst was somewhat relieved, then in our turnwe would dig for soaks round the rocks. In the hottest time of the yearour poor patient beasts had been eight days without food, except of thedriest description, and eight days without water, struggling and kickingin the salt-bogs. It was indeed a delight to quench their thirst at last. All that night we worked without a minute's rest, digging, scraping, andbailing, and secured enough to keep the camels going. For the next twodays we were engaged in sinking trial holes for soakages; no water, however, rewarded our labours until the night of the second day, when westruck a splendid supply, and for the time being our troubles were over. Pitching a "fly" to keep off the sun's rays in the daytime, we werecontent to do nothing but rest for the whole of the next day. Here again Iwas fortunate in shooting an emu, a welcome addition to our provisions. 

McIlwraith and his mates (the owners of the horses) had also struck a goodsupply. From them we got the news which we already suspected that a newfind of gold had been made not five miles from the rocks. An apparentlyrich find too! How strangely things turn out. Our ill-fortune in failingto find the Erlistoun had forced us into a most unpleasant experience, and yet that ill-fortune was turning into good. For here we were on thescene of newly-discovered reefs and nuggets, at the new rush, theexistence of which we had gravely doubted. We were the third party on thefield, and from Messrs. Rogers and friends I heard the history of itsdiscovery. 

CHAPTER V

GOLD AT LAKE DARLOT

About the month of October, 1894, Rogers and party, with their camels, were camped at Cutmore's (or Doyle's) Well, and, on studying the map ofthe Elder Exploring Expedition, they saw that Mr. Wells had marked thecountry north of Lake Darlot as "probably auriferous. " This theydetermined to visit, and, more fortunate than ourselves, were not caughtin the intricacies of the salt lake. 

Returning in disgust, having found no signs of gold, they passed thegranites, where they got water, and camped on a promising piece ofcountry, where they soon found gold in the the reefs. Here they worked forsome time with but little encouragement, until after Christmas, whenalluvial gold was found on the surface by a member of another party whocame upon the original discoverers in a somewhat startling manner. 

Cable, Janet, and Pickering had pushed out also from Cutmore's Well, andby finding water on a granite between the two, had reached the rocks nearLake Darlot. Here they found camped a tribe of aboriginals, to whom theyshowed kindness--too much kindness it appears, for the treacherousthieves, having tasted the white man's food, conceived the bold idea ofraiding the camp, killing its occupants, and annexing their provisions. At midnight the prospectors were attacked, Cable and Janet being spearedas they lay in their blankets, Cable through the stomach and Janet inthe arm, Pickering escaping, for he had laid down his blanket under atree, away from the packs, to get shade from the moon. He is, too, a manof exceptionally small stature, and so eluded the quick sight of theblack-fellow. 

In spite of the disadvantage under which they were placed by the suddenattack and wounds, the white men overpowered and dispersed theirtreacherous foes. In what a terrible position they were now placed, fifty-five miles from Cutmore's Well, the nearest certain water, for thechances that the water found between would be dried up, were great! Onlyone man unwounded and one suffering the most awful tortures of pain; andnobody with the smallest medical skill, within God knows how many miles!Death seemed certain, but while life remained they were not the men togive in, and they thought of a plan whereby the life of their mate mightbe saved if only their horses held out. They travelled five miles, thencamped, and the available man returned to the rocks to water the horsesat the risk of being again attacked by the niggers. And thus dot and goone, they hoped to reach Cutmore's. 

So much endurance could not remain unrewarded and the two wounded men wereoverjoyed by the report of a shot (a dynamite shot as it afterwardstranspired, fired by Rogers, Parks, and Lockhart as they worked on theirreef), and as soon as the horses returned, the little band set forth inthe direction from which the welcome sound had come, and before long sawthe camp of the lucky prospectors. 

Fortunately Mr. Parks had some knowledge of surgery, picked up in theAfrican bush, where he had been a trader, and so could doctor the woundedmen. Here they camped until one morning, Janet, recovered of his hurt, picked up a nugget of gold, strangely enough, close to the track fromRoger's camp to the reef he was working. This nugget was the first-fruitof a plentiful harvest, and presently they went down to the coast wherepoor Cable could be properly attended to in hospital. Pickering and Janetreturned as soon as possible, but not before some inkling of their findhad leaked out; consequently when they returned, just at the time of ourarrival on the scene, their tracks were followed, and a "rush" set in. 

We were not long in making our camp at the new diggings, or in getting towork to hunt for gold. Being out for a syndicate, who naturally wantedsomething big in the way of a reef, we were precluded from the alluringsearch for alluvial, "specking, " as it is termed. 

It seems the simplest thing in the world to find a good mine--that is, asI said before, after you have found it! On Sunday, February 17th, Paddyand I took a walk, and stepped right on to an outcrop of quartz showingbeautiful gold. Quite simple! Any fool can prospect; all he wants is alittle luck, and the strange inner urgings that make him examine a certainquartz reef or blow that others have passed, perhaps dozens of times, without happening to look in the right place! Roughly marking out an area, to establish our prior claim to the ground amongst those already on thefield, we returned to camp and gave Jim, who had been packing water fromthe granites, the joyful news. 

On Monday before daylight we were out, and soon had eighteen acres markedoff by a post at each corner, and our notices posted on a conspicuoustree, which we had been unable to do the day before, Sunday-pegging beingillegal. 

Fresh parties were now arriving daily, and the consequent demand for watermade it necessary for Jim to camp at the rocks, and bring us a supplywhenever he was able. 

This was not accomplished without some trouble, for not only were thesoaks we had dug with so much labour, made use of by the new-comers, which we did not object to, but our right to the water was often disputedby some who, with small regard for the truth, said that it was they whohad sunk the wells! Jim, however, was not the man to be bluffed, and, inspite of lameness from sciatica in the loins and hip, managed to keep uswell supplied. Short-handed already, we were further handicapped by Paddysmashing his thumb, and thus, for a time, I was the only sound workman ofthe party. 

CHATTER VI

ALONE IN THE BUSH

By March 4th we were satisfied that the appearance of the mine was goodenough to warrant our applying for a lease of the area already marked out. So leaving Czar behind, to enable Paddy and Jim to pack water, I, ridingSatan and leading Misery, loaded with specimens from the reef, set forthfor Coolgardie, to apply for the lease, and get a fresh supply ofprovisions, of which we were sadly in need. My departure for Coolgardiewas taken advantage of by several who wished to bank their gold, and thusI became an escort. 

Coolgardie lay almost due south, 220 miles on the chart, but nearly 300miles by the track, which deviated from water to water. Speed being anobject, I decided to strike through the bush to George Withers' hole. Here, by the way, poor Alec Kellis had just been murdered by theblacks--not the pleasantest of news to hear, as I started on my solitaryjourney. I followed a horse pad for fifty-five miles, mostly through thickscrub, to Cutmore's Well, where several parties were camped, who eagerlyquestioned me as to the richness of the new field. 

Leaving Cutmore's, I struck through the bush, and before long the sicknessI had had on me for some time past, developed into a raging fever. Everybone in my body ached and shot with pain. I could neither ride nor walkfor more than a few minutes at a stretch; I was unable to eat, nor caredto drink the hot water in my canteen. I struggled on, now riding, nowwalking, and now resting under a bush, travelling in this fashion as longas daylight lasted, from five in the morning until six at night. Afraid tolet the camels go at night lest they should wander too far, or, while Iwas following them in the morning, my packs should be raided by theblacks, I tied them down, one on either side of my blankets; and thus Ihad not only a protection against the wind, but the pleasure of theircompanionship--no slight blessing in that solitude. 

How lonely I felt, in that vast uninhabited bush! Racked by pain, I tossedfrom side to side, until sheer weariness kept me still; so still that thesilence of death seemed to have fallen upon us; there was not a sound inall that sea of scrub, save the occasional sleepy grunt of one of thecamels, until the quiet night re-echoed with the hoarse call of the"Mopoke, " which seemed to be vainly trying to imitate the cheerful notesof the cuckoo. How could any note be true in such a spot! or how could adry-throated bird he anything but hoarse! At last morning came, heraldedby the restless shuffling of the camels, and another day's journey began. 

Tying the camels down at nights necessitated the cutting of scrub andbushes for them to feed upon, and I doubt they got little enough to eat. Before long I was too weak to lift the saddles off, and could only withdifficulty load and unload the bags of quartz, and, weakened as I was byillness, my labours were not light. Yet further trouble was in store forme, for presently a salt lake barred my way. Then I began to understandthe meaning of the word despair. Neither kindness or cruelty would inducemy camels to cross; I was therefore forced to follow the banks of thelake, hoping to get round it, as I could see what I supposed was its end. Here I was again baffled by a narrow channel not ten yards wide. It mightas well have been half a mile, for all the chance I had of crossing it. The trend of the lake was north-west by south-east, and I was now at thenorth-west end, but stopped, as I say, by a narrow channel connectingevidently with another lake further to the north-west. 

There was nothing for it but to retrace my steps, and follow along themargin of the lake to the south-east, and eventually I got round, havingbeen forced some ten miles out of my course. 

I was fortunate in finding water without difficulty, in a small rock-holeamongst some granite hills in which "Granite Creek" takes its rise. From these I had still eighty miles to travel before I could reach asettlement, Coongarrie (the 90 mile) being the nearest point. Could I doit? I had to succeed or perish miserably, and a man fights hard for hislife. So I struggled on day and night, stopping at frequent intervals fromsheer exhaustion, cursing the pitiless sun, and praying for it to sinkbelow the horizon. Some twenty miles from Coongarrie I was relieved bystriking a track, which did away with the necessity of thinking where Iwas going. 

A few miles more, and--joy unspeakable--I found a condenser and a camp. The hospitable proprietor, whose name I never learned, did all he could tomake me comfortable, and I felt inclined to stay, but despatch wasimperative, for not only must the lease be applied for forthwith, butConley and Egan must be provisioned. At Coongarrie I gave a swagman alift, and he helped me with the camels and loads, until at last Coolgardiewas reached. 

Giving my camels in charge of the first man I could find willing to lookafter them, an Afghan, Neel Bas by name, I finished my business at theWarden's office. Then, yielding to the persuasion of my friends in Askenand Nicolson's store, I retired to the hospital, for indeed I could fightagainst my sickness no longer. Here I remained some three weeks under thekind care of Miss O'Brien (now Mrs. Castieau) and Miss Millar, the pioneernurses on the goldfields. No words can express the admiration I, and allof us, felt for the pluck and goodness of these two gently nurturedladies, who had braved the discomforts and hardships of the road from Yorkto Coolgardie--discomforts that many of the so-called stronger sex hadfound too much for them--to set up their hospital tent, and soothe thesufferings of poor fever-stricken fellows. 

The services of these kind ladies, and of many that subsequently followedtheir example, were badly needed, for the typhoid fiend wasrampant--carrying off the young, and apparently strong, men at a rate tootremendous to be credible. Funerals were too common to call for evenpassing notice. "Unwept, unhonoured, and unsung, " they went to a namelessgrave. 

My chief anxiety was for my mates. How could I send them relief, incapacitated as I was? Fortunately, my friend David Wilson offered to gofor me, in consideration of a certain interest in the mine we had found. This was a great help, and now I could rest contented; not altogetherthough, for Neel Bas had some hesitation in giving up the camels, and hada violent row with Dave Wilson, all of which he would insist on explainingto me in broken English, as he sat cross-legs on the floor of my tent. Thedoctor happily arrived and kicked him out, and I was left in peace. Inless than three weeks I was able to go by coach to Southern Cross, andthence by train to Perth, where, under the kind roof of Colonel Fleming, the Commandant, I soon regained my health. 

When I mention that my syndicate never even offered to defray the cost ofmy illness, my readers will understand that my statements as to theingratitude of those who benefit by the prospectors' toil are notunfounded. Unfortunately for me, my old mate, Lord Douglas, was absentin England, and, in consequence, much misunderstanding resulted betweenthe syndicate and myself. 

CHAPTER VII

SALE OF MINE

During my convalescence in Perth, I occupied my time by drawing in theGovernment offices, a map, compiled from the various notes and journals Ihad kept during the prospecting expeditions in which I had been engaged. I also took the opportunity of getting some knowledge of astronomicalsubjects, likely to be of service in the more extended expedition I hadin my mind. My thanks are due to Mr. Barlee, chief draughtsman, andMr. Higgins, of the Mines Department, for the kindness they showed inhelping me in this work. 

It was not very long before I felt it was necessary to return to myduties at Lake Darlot. Timing my arrival in Coolgardie to coincide withthat of Mr. Wilson from the mine, we met; and from him I was pleased tohear how well the claim was turning out. 

Since it was not necessary for both of us to be on the spot, I took one ofthe camels, of which we now had five, and made all speed to a reported"new rush" near Lake Lefroy, that was causing much excitement. Knots ofmen could be seen in every corner of the town eagerly discussing the news;gold, to the tune of 30, 000 ounces, was being brought in; was in the town;was actually in one of the banks! Many had seen it (or said so). Where wasthis Eldorado? Every man knew; every man had directions how to get there, from quite unimpeachable sources. It was actually in the local papers;indeed, there could be no doubt about it. I knew of course that all thismust be discounted, but the matter was worth looking into, and I wasfortunate to get THE very latest information from one who was an oldmate of the supposed lucky digger. I found my travelling companion hadequally well authenticated information. On comparing notes we soondiscovered that our directions were entirely at variance. 

To make a long story short, we at length found that, like hundreds ofothers, we had been fooled, and that the whole thing was bogus. Thediggers' indignation was righteously intense, the office of the offendingnewspaper was attacked, and much damage narrowly averted. One unfortunateman, on whom fell the wrath of the crowd, returning from the supposedrush, lied profusely when "in drink, " said that he had found the spot, that hundreds of men were gleaning rich gold in fabulous quantities, thatthe world had never seen so wonderful a find, that gold would soon be ascheap as lead in the market--in fact told a thousand and one similar fairytales, engendered by whisky and excitement. When sober he foolishly stuckto what he had said; and, in consequence, was sent by the diggers, underescort, to point out the spot, which of course he could not find. Hisreception in Coolgardie may be imagined! Doubtless on the Westerngoldfields of America, "lynching" would have been his portion. Even inorder-loving Australia he might have had an unpleasant time, had notMr. Finnerty, the popular Warden, quelled the turmoil, and placed theoffender under Police protection. For want of the real article, awell-attended procession burnt this idiot's effigy, and thus the greatrush ended. 

It was supposed by some, if I remember rightly, that the fire which guttednearly half the town had its origin in this effigy-burning. What a blazethat was to be sure! Tents, shanties, houses of hessian, shops ofcorrugated iron and wood, offices, hotels, and banks, consumed in onesheet of flame in a matter of half an hour or so, the blaze accompanied byexplosions of dynamite caps, kerosene, and cartridges. Nothing could bedone to stay its fury. To save the town, houses were demolished, to formwide gaps across which the flames could not reach. It was the generalimpression that corrugated iron was more or less fireproof. However, itburnt like cardboard. Ruinous to some as the early fires were, theybenefited the general community, as more substantial buildings wereerected, and hessian shanties forbidden. 

After a good deal of unpleasant business over the mine at Lake Darlot, which the syndicate wished to abandon, for reasons best known tothemselves, I was at length on the road for that district, with theagreeable news that our mine was for sale, and would soon be off ourhands. 

I had a rather more enjoyable journey than my previous one, for not onlywas I free from fever, and the mine in a fair way to being sold, butwinter had changed the face of the bush from dull dead yellow to brightsmiling green, dotted here and there with patches of white and pinkeverlastings. One could hardly believe it was the same country. Instead ofthe intense heat a bright warm sun dissipated the keen and frosty air ofearly morning, while the hoar-frost at night made one glad of a goodpossum rug to coil oneself up in. I did not envy the cyclists, forsometimes, failing to hit off a camp on the road, they had perforce tomake the best of a fire as a substitute for a blanket, and to be contentwith a hungry stomach, in place of having a meal. 

Before the erection of telegraph wires, which now connect all the moreimportant mining towns, cyclists made good money by carrying specialmessages from Coolgardie to the outlying districts. Except where the sandwas deep they had a good track, well-beaten by the flat pads of camels, and could do their hundred miles a day at a push. Travelling at expressrate, they were unable to carry blankets or provisions except of thescantiest description, and took their chance of hitting off the camp ofsome wayfarer, who would always be ready to show what hospitality hecould, to messengers of so much importance. To have to part with one ofyour blankets on a cold night for the benefit of another traveller, isone of the severest exercises of self denial. 

These little kindly services are always rendered, for a man in the bushwho would not show courtesy and hospitality to a fellow-wayfarer isrightly considered a cur. No matter what time one strikes a man's camp, his first thought, whether for stranger or friend, is to put on the"billy" and make a pot of tea. 

Arrived at Lake Darlot, I found work being carried on well and withenergy, as could not fail to be the case where Dave Wilson was concerned. Poor Jim and Paddy had had hard times, before Wilson arrived, to make theprovisions last out. Nevertheless they had worked away on the reef withoutcomplaint, while others around them were waxing rich on the alluvial. 

The population had increased to some two thousand men during my absence:two thousand men working and living in order and peace, with no police orofficials of any kind within two hundred miles--a state of affairs ofwhich we may justly be proud. 

Evil-doing, however, was not entirely absent, and occasional cases ofrobbery of gold, or pilfering of tents occurred; the offenders in suchcases were usually caught and summarily dealt with. 

A "roll up" would be called, and those who cared to put themselvesforward, would form judge, jury, police, and all. The general verdict wasnotice to quit within so many hours--an order that few would dare toneglect. A case in which this did happen occurred at Kurnalpi when a manwas caught passing bad notes in the "Sunday School. " He refused to budge, and, seeing that he was a great giant with the reputation of being theroughest and hardest fighter in the country, the question arose who should"bell the cat. " The man who had been swindled was a stranger, andunwilling to fight his own battle; who, therefore, would volunteer to geta sound hammering from one of the toughest blackguards in Australia. 

The "roll up" slowly dispersed, every man muttering that it was not hisbusiness, and that, after all, passing a "stiff 'un" on to a new chum wasno great crime as compared to stealing gold or robbing a camp. In this Ithink they showed sound judgment. The prize-fighting gent, however, becametoo bumptious, and was eventually hustled out of the place. 

Our camp at Lake Darlot was rather pleasantly situated on rising ground bythe side of the blow; behind us, sheer cliffs of conglomerate, worn andweathered into queer little caves, the floors of which were covered inchesdeep by the droppings of bats and small wallabies; and, stretching awayto the South, an open plain enclosed in an endless sea of scrub. Everymorning we witnessed the strange phenomenon of a lake appearing in the skyto the South, miles away, above the scrub, a lake surrounded by steepwhite cliffs. This mirage would last perhaps half an hour, and was, Isuppose, a reflection of Lake Darlot, which lay at the back of us, somefive miles distant to the North. 

Our camp consisted of the usual tents and bough-shades and for the first, and probably the only, time in our lives we cooked our pots on a goldenfireplace. To protect the fire from the wind, so that a good pile of ashesshould collect for baking purposes, we had made a semicircular wall ofstones. The nearest available stones, quartz boulders from the blow, wereused, and so it came about that we had a gold-studded fireplace! We usedto have a curious visitor from the caves--a small black cat, which wastame enough to wander between our legs as we sat round the fire, but toowary to be caught. I can hardly imagine a prospector carrying a cat ascompanion, and yet how else did it get there? Its shyness inclined us tothink it had strayed from civilisation. Jim tried to catch it one evening, and not only got scratched and bitten for his trouble, but so startled thebeast that it never returned. Our party was now increased to five; for anextra hand, Alfred Morris, had been engaged. Between us the duties of theday's work were divided. 

Our daily labours included hunting up the camels, lest they strayed orwere stolen, cutting timber for mining or firewood, packing water from therocks five miles away, and working on the mine. 

I had occasion to make a journey to Lawlers, where a Warden, Mr. Clifton, had lately been established, and I mention here an illustration of one ofthe many intelligent traits in the character of camels. 

Not wishing to follow the road in its many turns from water to water, Icut through the bush for some fifty miles. The first part was over hard, stony ground, then came sand, then more stones, and then I struck the roadagain about two miles from Lawlers. I stayed there two or three days, intending to return on my tracks. Wishing to test the intelligence of mycamel Satan I allowed him a free rein, either to keep on the track or turnoff for a short cut. As soon as we came to the spot where we had firststruck the road, he turned into the bush without hesitation with his nosefor home. After some eight miles of stones, on which I could distinguishno trail, we came to the sand, and at once I could see our former tracksright ahead, which little Satan had followed with the precision of ablack-fellow. 

In repasssing old camping-places on the road, camels will often stop, andlook surprised if made to go further. They have, too, an excellent idea oftime, and know very well when the day's march should come to an end. With what sad reproof they look at one with their great, brown eyes, thatsay, as plainly as eyes can speak, "What! going on? I am SO tired. "I fancy the reason that camels are so often described as stupid andvicious, and so forth, is that they are seen, as a rule, in large mobsunder the care of Indian or other black drivers, whose carelessness andcruelty (so far as my experience goes) are unspeakable. For that reason Inever have had an Afghan driver in my employ, nor can I see any advantagein employing one, unless it be on the score of cheapness. Camels areinfinitely better managed and treated by white men--of course, I speakwithin my own knowledge of Australia--and in consequence their charactersdevelop, and they are properly appreciated. 

In due course the expected inspecting engineer came to see our mine, and, as he had several reports to make, we had the pleasure of his company atour camp, and very glad we were to do what we could for such a finespecimen of an expert and gentleman as Mr. Edward Hooper. He was satisfiedwith what he saw--indeed, he could hardly have been otherwise at thatperiod of the mine's existence; and on our arrival in Cue, wither we hadtravelled part of the way together, a bargain was struck, and before manydays Jim and I returned with the glad tidings that the mine was sold, andwould be taken over forthwith. 

The road from Cue was as uninteresting as all others on the goldfields--miles of flat, sandy soil covered with dense scrub, an occasional openplain of grass and saltbush round the foot of the breakaways, and cliffsthat are pretty frequently met with. Travellers on this road had been keptlively by a band of marauding black-fellows, most of whom had "done time"at Rotnest Jail for cattle-spearing, probably, on the coast stations. Having learnt the value of white-fellows' food, they took to the road, andwere continually bailing up lonely swagmen, who were forced to give uptheir provisions or be knocked on the head, since hardly any carriedfirearms. The finest prize that they captured was a loaded camel, which insome extraordinary way had got adrift from the end of a large caravan, and wandered into the scrub. The Afghans, when they had perceived theirloss, tracked up the camel, only to find it dying in agony, with its kneeschopped nearly two. This was Jacky-Jacky's way of putting the poor beastdown to be unloaded. Happily, after a Warden was appointed at Lawlers, atrooper was sent out, who broke up the gang and captured most of them, atthe expense of the life of one black tracker. 

One of these thieves paid our camp a visit, but the sight of a rifle, combined with a smart blow on the shins with a stick, quite satisfied himthat he had come to the wrong place. 

Returned to Lake Darlot, we impatiently awaited the arrival of those whowere to take over the mine from us. At last they came, and it onlyremained to pack up our traps, take the road to Coolgardie, and finish upall business connected with the syndicate. There we parted, Conley andEgan leaving with their shares; and with regret on both sides I think, that our ways no longer lay together: for months of close companionship inthe bush, facing hardships and sometimes mutual dangers, make a close tieof friendship between men, that is not easily broken. 

Wishing to pay a visit to the old country, and yet not caring to part withthe camels which had been my property for some months past, and of which Iwas very fond, we formed a syndicate, composed of Dave Wilson, CharlesStansmore, and Alfred Morris, who found the money, and myself, who foundthe camels, the profits of the venture, if any arose, to be divided in aproportion agreed upon. I could depart, therefore, with the satisfactoryfeeling of knowing that my faithful animal-friends would be well caredfor. 

Shares were rising, the mine was sold, and the work done, and it was witha light heart that I booked passage for London in October, 1895. 

PART IV MINING

CHAPTER I

QUARTZ REEFING AND DRY-BLOWING

I would not, even if I had the requisite knowledge, wish to bore thereader by giving a scientific account of gold-mining, but WesternAustralia presents so many appearances differing from those in othergold-producing countries, and so varied are some of the methods ofobtaining gold, that I hope a short account of the usual ways of winningthe precious metal, purely from a prospector's point of view, will be ofinterest. 

The area over which the goldfields extend, may be described as very gentlyundulating country, from which rise, at intervals, low ranges or isolatedhills. * These ranges, in reality seldom over 200 feet above the plain, have in the distance a far more important appearance. It is a commonexperience to steer for a range, sighted from perhaps a distance offifteen miles, and find on closer inspection that it is no more than a lowline of rocks. It is equally common for a hill to appear as quite arespectable mountain when seen from one point, but entirely to disappearfrom view when seen from the opposite direction, so gentle is the slope. 

[* Mount Burgess, the highest hill around Coolgardie, is about 500 feetabove surrounding country. ]

These ranges, such as they are, occur at intervals of a few miles up tothirty or more, and between them scrub-covered plains, sand-plains, orflat stretches of open forest are found. In the deeper undulations, longchains of dry salt-lakes and samphire-flats are met with, occupying anarrow belt, perhaps one hundred miles in length. Doubtless were therainfall greater, these lakes would be connected, and take the place ofrivers, which would eventually find their way into the Australian Bight. Unfortunately for the comfort of travellers, this is not the case, andtheir water supply must depend upon one or other of the various sourcesalready described. 

The first aim of a party of Western Australian prospectors is to find notgold, but water. Having found this they make camp, and from it start shortexcursions in all directions towards any hill that may be in sight. Arrived at the hills, which, though bare of undergrowth, are usuallycovered with low scrub, they can soon determine from the nature the rockwhether further search is likely to have good results. Should they seehills of ironstone and diorite, or blows and outcrops of quartz, theywill certainly revisit the locality. In what manner, will depend upon thedistance from water. They may be able to form camp in the desired spot, with water close at hand; or the party may have to divide, some camping inthe likely country, engaged in prospecting solely, while the others "tail"the horses or camels at the watering-place and pack water to their mates. In cases where "good gold is getting, " water has sometimes been packeddistances of twenty to forty miles; or it may happen that good countrymust be passed over, from the want of water within reasonable distance. 

From his limited appliances and means, a prospector's object is to find avein or reef of gold-bearing ore, not by sinking, but from surfaceindications. 

Veins or reefs may be described as layers, which have been deposited infissures and cracks in the rock surrounding them. The enclosing rock isknown as the "country rock. " "Lodes" are veins composed of a mixture ofquartz, ironstone, and other material, and usually exceed in width the"reefs, " which sometimes, as at Southern Cross, attain thirty feet, butare rarely more than one to four feet in thickness. The part of a reefshowing above the surface is the "outcrop, " which may appear either as amass or "blow" of quartz, sometimes sixty feet in height, or as a solidwall or dyke which can be followed for perhaps five miles without a break;the direction in which it runs is known as its "strike. "

Reefs may go down vertically, or on a sloping "dip" or "underlay. " Thecountry rock lying immediately above the reef is the "hanging wall, " andthat immediately below, the "foot wall. "

In prospecting a reef, a miner walks along the strike of the outcrop, "napping" as he goes, i. E. , breaking off with a hammer or pick, pieces ofthe quartz or ironstone outcrop. Each fragment is carefully examined forthe presence of gold, which is nearly always found, if on the surface, ina free state, that is to say, uncombined with any other mineral. If anygold is present, it may occur in small specks as fine as flour, or inlarge solid lumps as big as one's fist, as in Bayley's Reward Claim, Londonderry, and one or two other mines. In the latter case the rich findwould immediately be pegged out as a claim, or lease, and work commenced, the coarse gold being won by the simple process of "dollying" the ore;or pounding it in an iron mortar with an iron pestle, and passing it whencrushed, through a series of sieves in which the gold, too large to fallthrough, is held. 

To estimate roughly the worth of a reef in which only fine gold is visibleit is necessary to take several samples along the outcrop, "dolly" them, and wash the powdered quartz by means of two iron dishes, from which thelight material is floated off, leaving the gold behind. From a series ofexperiments an idea can be formed as to whether the reef is worth furtherwork. 

It will be found on napping a reef, that the gold occurs at more or lessregular intervals. This deposit of gold in the surface outcrop is the topof a "shoot" of gold, which may be followed down on the underlay for manyfeet. And this peculiarity in the distribution of the metal has been thecause of much disappointment and misunderstanding. 

Having determined that your reef is good enough on the surface, the nextthing to be done is to ascertain, by means of cuts and shafts, its naturebelow the surface. This may be done either by an underlay shaft, whichfollows the reef down from the surface, or by a vertical shaft, sunk somedistance away from the outcrop, to cut the reef perhaps one hundred feetbelow. 

By a series of shafts with drives, or galleries, connecting them when theycut the vein, a more accurate estimate of the value of the reef can bemade. 

Now in the case of a reef which has rich shoots a prospector, naturallyanxious to make his "show" as alluring as possible to any possible buyer, sinks his trial shaft, on the underlay, through the shoots. And so itmight happen, that by carefully selecting the sites of his shafts, hemight have a dazzling show of gold in each one, and merely blank quartzbetween them. A mining expert, usually only too ready to give a glowingreport, makes his estimates on the assumption that the quartz interveningbetween the shafts is as rich as that visible in them, and the purchaseprice increases accordingly. 

Not only do shoots occur to puzzle the expert, gladden the heart of theprospector, and madden the shareholder, but the eccentricity of gold isfurther exemplified by the way in which it has been been deposited in"pockets. "

No better example of this could be given than the Londonderry Mine, wheregold to the value of many thousand pounds was won from quite a small holein the outcrop. At the bottom of this hole lumps of solid gold could beseen, and inasmuch as other pockets, equally rich, had been found, it wasassumed by nearly all concerned that the reef was a solid mass of gold, and the whole community was mad with excitement. However, when thepurchasers started work, it was soon discovered that the golden floor tothe golden hole only continued golden to the depth of three or fourinches, to the despair of the promoters and unlucky shareholders, as wellas of the numberless adjoining leaseholders, through whose property thisrich reef had been traced. 

It seems incredible that a vein should run in more than one direction, andyet it is made to do so, and to go North, East, South, or West, or to anyintermediate point of the compass, at the discretion of those responsiblefor the prospectus! An unmistakable surface outcrop is not popular amongstexperts (it leaves no scope for the exercise of an elastic imagination), whereas they cannot be expected to see under ground, and can then maketheir reef run in the most suitable direction. 

I do not think the much-abused expert is any more dishonest than otherfolk, though he has more temptation. His bread and butter depends on hisfee, his fee depends, not on the accuracy of his report, but on the fact, whether or no that report suits his employers. If, as often is the case, he has to report on a "lease" whose only value is derived from its closeproximity to a rich show, and if that rich show only appears above thesurface in an isolated mass, and its direction of strike can only beguessed at, and, above all, if he knows that his fee or future employmentdepends on guessing that direction into the property under report, I thinkhe has been led into temptations from which most of us are exempt, andwhich a good many would find it hard to resist. The term "expert" refersonly to the numerous army of "captains" and "mining experts" of mushroomgrowth, for which the soil of the goldfields is so suitable, and is notapplied to the mining engineer of high standing, whose honourable andstraight dealing is unimpeachable. 

Having brought the mine to such a state that it is ready to be purchased, in which unsatisfactory position it sometimes remains for many longmonths, I will now leave it, and will not touch upon "mills" and"batteries, " which are the same, or nearly so, in all countries, and areoutside the province of a prospector, who, from his limited capital, isunable to erect the costly machinery necessary for the extraction of goldfrom quartz on a large scale. Therefore the prospector parts with his mineas soon as he can find a purchaser, usually an agent, who sells at aprofit to some company, which in its turn sells at a greater profit to theBritish or Australian public. 

The humbler prospector confines his attention to alluvial gold, that is tosay the gold which has been shed from the outcrop of the reef, byweathering and disintegration. The present small rainfall, and theevidence from the non-existence of river-beds, that the past rainfall wasno greater, go to show that this weathering is due to the sudden change intemperature between night and day, the extreme dryness of the atmosphere, and strong winds. Without any rush of water it is not possible for anygreat depth of alluvial soil to have been formed, nor can the gold havebeen carried far from the reef, or reefs, in which it has its origin. Forthis reason, though exceptionally rich in places, the alluvial diggingshave never been either of great extent, or depth, or of general richness. 

In many places the alluvial soil is not more than a few inches indepth. It is in such places that "specking" may be carried on, whichconsists in walking slowly about with eyes to the ground, and picking upany nuggets that may be seen. Many thousand ounces of gold have been foundin this simple manner. Where, however, the alluvium is deeper, aconsiderable amount of labour must be expended before gold can be won. Incountries blessed with abundant rainfall the nuggets can be separated fromthe dirt by a comparatively simple arrangement of sluices and cradles. Inthe drought-stricken west of Australia other means must be adopted, whichI will endeavour to describe. 

Having picked and dug out a certain amount of the alluvial ground which, it is hoped, contains nuggets of various sizes, the digger then breaks upany lumps of clay or earth by means of a heavy billet of wood, or likeimplement, and this prepared dirt, as it is called, he treats in one ofthe following ways:--

1. BY MEANS OF TWO IRON DISHES, in diameter 15 to 18 inches, and in depth4 to 5 inches. 

One dish is placed empty on the ground, the other, filled with theprepared dirt, is held up at arm's length above the head, with the mouthof the dish turned to the wind; the earth is then allowed to fallgradually into the dish beneath, all light particles and dust being blownaway by the wind. Exchange of dishes having been made, the same process isrepeated again and again. When there is only a small amount of dust left, the full dish is held in both hands, and given a circular movement, whichcauses the larger stones or pebbles to come to the surface; these arecleared away with the left hand, and a sharp look out is kept for nuggetsor quartz specimens. This is repeated until nothing is left in the dishbut a small quantity of dust, ironstone-gravel, and possibly fine gold, orsmall nuggets. The dish is then held up at an angle, and shaken from sideto side until a compact little heap remains, to the bottom of which thegold will have sunk. The next and final operation is to hold the dish upto the mouth nearly horizontally, and blow the little heap across thedish. Any fine gold will then be seen lying on the bottom just under thenose of the operator. 

Given a good hot summer's day, flies as numerous as the supply of water isscanty, clouds of dust, little or no breeze, and the same quantity ofgold, and a few score of men working within an area of nine or ten acres, one is sometimes tempted to think that gold may be bought too dear. Butthe very lowest depths of despair, cannot compare with the heights ofsatisfaction, attained after a successful day's "dry-blowing. "

2. BY MEANS OF TWO DISHES, AND A TRIPOD STAND AND PULLEY. 

A tripod, twelve or fifteen feet high, is set up over a hard and smoothpiece of ground. By a rope and pulley the full dish is hauled up as far asrequired; the rope is then made fast and a string, fixed to the edge ofthe dish, is pulled, and the dish tipped up allowing the dirt to fall onto the prepared surface below, where it is swept up and treated as in thefirst method described. With a fair breeze this is a very effectual way ofgetting rid of the fine dirt. 

3 BY MEANS OF A SIEVE. 

This method is only suitable when the soil is wet and sticky, or where thenuggets are fairly large and not too rare. 

On the first rush to Kurnalpi, where more alluvial gold was found in ashort time than on any other field, sieves were almost the only implementsused. 

A sieve is very useful for prospecting the surface soil, being moreportable and more rapidly worked than the dishes. 

A combination of these three methods is found in the DRY BLOWING MACHINE. 

It has always been a hotly debated question, whether what is known as the"Cement" comes under the heading of "reefs" or "alluvial. " This cement iscomposed of angular quartz-fragments, broken from the reefs or veins, and fragments of diorite and hornblende schists, cemented together bylime; it is very hard and solid and, in places, continues to a depth ofover twenty feet. The gold is extracted from these depths by crushing anddry-blowing. I have mentioned this peculiar composition last, as I am notat all clear to which class of formation it belongs. 

At first this cement, which the shallow alluvial ground overlies, wassupposed to be "bottom, " that is to say, that there was considered nolikelihood of gold being found at a greater depth. Later developments, however, have proved this theory to be wrong, and with regard to this Icannot do better than quote extracts from a report made byMr. E. P. Pittman, Government Geologist of New South Wales, in whichhe says:--

"He had considered the question of deep-leads of alluvial, and aftervisiting Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, and Kanowna, he thought it probable thatthere would shortly be a large output of alluvial gold from this source. In Coolgardie the dry-blowing had been confined to a very shallow depth, and yet close to Coolgardie--in Rollo's Bore--there was evidence of theexistence of a very deep valley. He produced a specimen, taken by himfrom an alluvial working near the Boulder Mine, showing what thedry-blowers had all through regarded as the natural floor of the alluvial. Below this floor they had never penetrated until the enterprisingprospector at Kanowna recently did so, and followed the lead down tofifty feet. 

" . . . He was satisfied that the alluvial went down to a depth atKalgoorlie just as it did at Kanowna. All the conditions were favourableto deep-leads of alluvial. 

" . . . Rollo's Bore at Coolgardie had proved the existence of alluvialgold at great depths. 

" . . . So far the alluvial men had been working on a false bottom. "

At the time of writing, some two thousand men have found profitableemployment in working this newly discovered deposit; and doubtlessconditions similar to those found at Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, and Kanowna, will be proved to hold on other alluvial fields, formerly supposed to beworked out. 

How hotly debated this "cement question" has been may be judged from thefact that, at the time of writing, riots are reported from Kalgoorlie, during which the Premier was hooted and stoned. This cowardly act couldhardly be the work of genuine diggers, and could doubtless be traced tothe army of blackguards and riffraff who have, of late years, found theirway to the goldfields. 

It would be idle to discuss here the questions of "who is right" and"who is wrong. " A great deal can be said on both sides. Let us hope thecontroversy will be settled to the satisfaction of both parties; that thediggers will not be turned off what is justly theirs, to benefitleaseholding companies, nor leaseholders deprived of their rights. 

PART V THE OUTWARD JOURNEY

CHAPTER I

PREVIOUS EXPLORERS IN THE INTERIOR OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA

I had not been enjoying the comforts of civilised life for long before Ihad a letter from Dave Wilson telling me how he and our mates had peggedout, and applied for, a lease which gave every promise of doing well. 

In April, 1896, I returned to Australia, and made speed to our newproperty, which I found to be in every respect as satisfactory as Wilsonhad told me. To be in the possession of a good mine, and to find someoneanxious to change places on terms mutually agreeable, are two verydifferent things. We were fortunate, however, in finding a purchaser, butnot fortunate enough to bring him up to the scratch with any promptitude. I had hoped to have had all preparations for the projected expeditioncomplete by the beginning of May, in order that by the time the hotweather came on we should be well on our way, if not at the end of ourjourney. The Fates ordered things differently, and it was not until themiddle of June that I was free to turn my attention to the thousand andone details connected with the composition and equipment of my party. 

With what keenness I entered into the preparations may be well imagined, for now at last I was in a position to undertake the expedition I had solong in my mind. In order to explain what my object was, and what my planof procedure was to be, it will be necessary to give a short sketch of thehistory of exploration and advance of settlement in Western Australia. The Colony, occupying one third of the continent, has an extreme length of1, 500 miles and a breadth of one thousand miles. The length of coast-lineexceeds three thousand miles. A most noticeable feature of the coast-lineon the South is the entire absence of rivers--for nearly seven hundredmiles no rivers or even watercourses are met with. Along the Western coastrivers are fairly frequent, the largest being the Swan, Murchison, Gascoyne, Ashburton, the Fortescue, and De Grey. The Swan, on which thecapital is situated, is the most important--the rivers North of this arenot always running, the seasons in the country where they rise being veryunreliable. Further North again, where Warburton's Desert abuts on thesea, we find an inhospitable sandy beach (the Eighty-mile Beach), alongwhich no river mouths are seen. In the far North, the Kimberley Division, the coast-line is considerably indented by bays, gulfs, and the mouths ofrivers of fair size, which run for the greater part of the year; of thesethe most important are the Fitzroy, Lennard, Prince Regent, and Ord. TheColony can boast of no great mountain ranges, the highest, the DarlingRange, being something over 2, 000 feet. The Leopold range in the north isof about the same altitude. No mountain chain breaks the monotony of thecentral portions of the Colony. In the interior hills are calledmountains, and a line of hills, ranges, for want of a better name. 

The first settlement was formed on the Swan River in 1826, and graduallyspread to the South and North, until to-day we find the occupied portionof the Colony extending along the western seaboard for about 1, 200 miles, with an average breadth of perhaps two hundred miles. In the North theoccupied country is confined to the watersheds of the two main rivers, the Fitzroy and the Ord. 

To the Eastward of Perth the populous mining towns and many scatteredmining camps and settlements extend some five hundred miles towards theinterior. In spite of the discovery of gold and the advance of the Colonyin every way, there still remains more than half the province unoccupied. 

How scattered the population of the settled country is may be judged fromthe fact that the average population is one individual to every six squaremiles. The vast, almost unknown, interior well merits its designation of"Desert, " and I suppose that in few parts of the world have travellershad greater difficulties to overcome than in the arid, sun-driedwilderness of interior Australia. The many attempts to penetrate beyondthe head-waters of the coastal rivers date from the earliest days of theSwan River Settlement. But in every case travellers, bold and enduring, were forced back by the impassable nature of the sandy deserts--impassableto all except camels. Roe, Hunt, Austin, and the Gregorys made more thanone effort to solve the mysteries of the interior. Numerous attempts weremade to cross the Colony from West to East or VICE VERSA, with the doubleobject of ascertaining whether the nature of the country rendered itsuitable for settlement, and of establishing some means of communicationwith the sister colonies to the East. 

The first who succeeded in travelling overland from South to WestAustralia was Eyre, afterwards made governor of Jamaica. He started in1841, and his route hugged the coast-line along the shores of the GreatAustralian Bight, and is now closely followed by the telegraph line. Inspite of almost insurmountable obstacles in the form of waterless regions, almost bare of vegetation, in spite of mutiny in the camp, and the murderof his white companion by one of the black-boys, the loss of his horses, in spite of starvation and thirst, this gallant man battled his wayacross, finishing his journey on foot with one companion only, a faithfulblack-boy. Lucky it was that this district is blessed with a plentiful dewin the cool weather, otherwise Eyre's horses could never have lasted aslong as they did. This journey was successfully accomplished again in 1879by Forrest (now Sir John Forrest, Premier of West Australia) who, keepingsomewhat to the north of Eyre's track, had comparatively little difficultyin finding water. 

Some 150 miles to the northward, the Colony was traversed from East toWest by Giles in 1876, who found it to be a flat, sandy wilderness ofscrub, alternating with open limestone plains, covered with saltbush andgrass. *

[* These plains, first crossed by Giles, have every appearance of beingsplendid pasture-lands. Unfortunately no surface water can be obtained. The formation is limestone, in which are found "blowholes"--that is tosay, circular holes two to four feet in diameter, which go down verticallyto a depth never yet ascertained. They derive their name from the curiousbooming noise which they emit, probably caused by the wind. Judging fromthe growth of saltbush and other herbage it would seem likely that therainfall on these elevated plains is considerable, and apparently runs towaste down blow-holes and cracks in the limestone. No doubt when otherparts of the Colony become occupied and civilisation advances, settlerswill turn their attention to this part, and possibly, by means of bores, find a plentiful supply of water, as on the Nullarbor Plains across theborder. It seems likely that a most undesirable class of colonists willforestall the "back blockers" from the west, for to the northward of Euclarabbits have been seen slowly advancing to the westward. The Governmentfortunately realises the importance of checking the incursion. To my mindthe safest plan would be to run a fence, at whatever cost, north fromEucla, for some 150 miles, until the desert was reached, and so force therabbits into a part of the country where, supposing they could live(which is doubtful), they could do no harm, and might come as a welcomeaddition to the diet of the wandering blacks, or might serve to break themonotony of "tinned dog" for the weary prospector. ]

Without camels as transport this expedition could not have been carriedout, which will be readily understood when we find that a waterless stageof three hundred miles was negotiated. It is of course likely that Gilespassed by waters unknowingly, for owing to the number of camels he had(twenty-two) and the supply of water he was enabled to carry, he was ableto push on without turning to the right hand or to the left. 

In the following year Giles again crossed the Colony from West to East, some 350 miles North of his first route, and encountered considerablyworse country, spinifex desert covered with light gravel. Between Giles'stwo tracks, Forrest, in 1874, made a remarkable journey from West to East, connecting his traverse with that of Gosse, who from the East hadpenetrated some 150 miles into the Western Colony, and finally reached theAdelaide-Port Darwin telegraph line. This journey was accomplished withhorses, and Forrest, like Stuart in Central Australia, happened to strikea belt of country intersected by low ranges and hills in which he foundwater. On his left hand was the undulating hill-less desert crossed byGiles, on his right a wilderness of rolling sandhills. Not only wasForrest a surveyor but a bushman as well, and accompanied by good men andblack-boys, who let not the slightest indications of the existence ofwater escape them. One has only to notice the numerous twists and turns inhis route to understand that no pains were spared to find water, and thusfrom rock-hole to rock-hole he wound his way across. 

It seems certain that Forrest must have had an exceptional season, judgingfrom the difficulties that have beset subsequent travellers, even thoughthey had camels, over the same route. Mills, Hubbe, Carr-Boyd, Macpherson, and Frost have in late years traversed the same country, not followingexactly in Forrest's footsteps, but visiting several waters yielding aplentiful supply when found by him, but which were dry when seen by them. Nevertheless if ever an overland route for stock is found from CentralAustralia to the Coolgardie fields, I feel confident it will closelyapproximate to Forrest's route of 1874 for a considerable distance. Between Giles's northern track and that of the next explorer, Warburton, there is a gap of some four hundred miles. Colonel Warburton, with a partyof four white men, two Afghans, and one black-boy, left Central Australia, in 1873 to cross to the western coast. This he succeeded in doing afterfearful hardships and sufferings, entailing the death of sixteen out ofseventeen camels, the temporary failure of his eyesight, and the permanentloss of one eye. One of his party lost his reason, which he never properlyrecovered, and sufferings untold were experienced by the whole expedition, the members of which narrowly escaped with their lives. Indeed they wouldnot have done so but for the faithful courage and endurance of SamuelLewis, who alone pushed on to the coastal settlements for aid, and, returning, was just in time to rescue the other survivors. So bad was theaccount given by these travellers of the interior that it was only by thegradual extension of settlement, rather than by the efforts of any oneindividual, that any part of it became better known. But for the findingof gold it is certain that the interior would have long remained anunknown region of dangers, so boldly faced by the early explorers. 

The existence of gold was known to the Dutch as far back as 1680 orthereabouts, and what is now known as the Nor'-West (including Pilbarraand the Ashburton) was called by them "Terra Aurifera. " In spite of vaguerumours of the existence of gold, and the report of Austin in 1854, whopassed close to what is now the town of Cue and noticed auriferousindications, it was not until 1868 that an authenticated find of gold wasmade--at Mallina, in the Nor'-West. Since that date the precious metal hasbeen found now in one place, now in another, until to-day we see on themap goldfields extending in a comparatively unbroken line from EsperanceBay on the South, along the Western seaboard to Kimberley in the North. 

Whilst prospectors were at work, explorers were not idle, and in 1892 alarge expedition, equipped by that public-spirited colonist, Sir ThomasElder--now alas! dead--was fitted out and put under the leadership ofDavid Lindsay. Sir Thomas was determined to finish what he had so wellbegun, viz. , the investigation of the interior, for by him not only hadGiles and Warburton been equipped, but several other travellers in Southand Central Australia. This expedition, however, though provided with alarge caravan of fifty-four camels, accomplished less than itspredecessors. Leaving Forrest's route at Mount Squires, Lindsay marchedhis caravan across the Queen Victoria Desert to Queen Victoria Spring, a distance of some 350 miles, without finding water except in smallquantities in rock-holes on the low sandstone cliffs he occasionally metwith. From Queen Victoria Spring, he made down to Esperance Bay, andthence by the Hampton Plains, through settled country to the Murchison. Here Lindsay left the expedition and returned to Adelaide; Wells, surveyorto the party, meanwhile making a flying trip to the eastward as far as thecentre of the Colony and then back again. During this trip he accomplishedmuch useful work, discovering considerable extents of auriferous countrynow dotted with mining camps and towns. On reaching the coast, he foundorders to return to Adelaide, as the expedition had come to an end. Why, it was never generally known. Thus there still remained a vast unknownexpanse right in the heart of the interior covering 150, 000 square miles, bounded on the North by Warburton's Great Sandy Desert, on the South byGiles's Desert of Gravel (Gibson's Desert), on the West by the stripof well-watered country between the coast and the highland in which therivers rise, on the East by nothing but the imaginary boundary-linebetween West and South Australia, and beyond by the Adelaide to PortDarwin Telegraph Line. 

To penetrate into this great unknown it would be necessary first to passover the inhospitable regions described by Wells, Forrest, and Giles, andthe unmapped expanses between their several routes--crossing their tracksalmost at right angles, and deriving no benefit from their experiencesexcept a comparison in positions on the chart, should the point ofintersection occur at any recognisable feature, such as a noticeable hillor lake. 

Should the unexplored part between Giles's and Warburton's routes besuccessfully crossed, there still would remain an unexplored tract 150miles broad by 450 long before the settlements in Kimberley could bereached, 1, 000 miles in a bee-line from Coolgardie. This was theexpedition I had mapped out for my undertaking, and now after fouryears' hard struggle I had at length amassed sufficient means to carry itthrough. I do not wish to pose as a hero who risked the perils and dangersof the desert in the cause of science, any more than I would wish it to bethought that I had no more noble idea than the finding of gold. Indeed, one cannot tell one's own motives sometimes; in my case, however, Ibelieve an insatiable curiosity to "know what was there, " joined to adesire to be doing something useful to my fellow-men, was my chiefincentive. I had an idea that a mountain range similar to, but of courseof less extent, than the McDonnell Ranges in Central Australia might befound--an idea based on the fact that the vast swamps or salt-lakes, LakeAmadeus and Lake Macdonald, which apparently have no creeks to feed themfrom the East, must necessarily be filled from somewhere. Since it wasnot from the East, why not from the West?

Tietkens, Giles's first officer in nearly all his journeys, who led anexpedition from Alice Springs in Central Australia to determine the extentof Lake Amadeus, cut off a considerable portion of that lake's supposedarea, and to the North-West of it discovered Lake Macdonald, which heencircled. To the West of this lake he found samphire swamps andclay-pans, which are so often seen at the end of creeks that seldom jointhe lakes in a definite channel. He might, therefore, have crossed thetail-end of a creek without being aware of it. 

Should such a range exist it might be holding undiscovered rich mineralsor pasture-lands in its valleys. Anything seemed possible in 150, 000square miles. Then again it seemed to me possible that between Kimberleyin the North and Coolgardie in the South auriferous connection mightexist. A broken connection with wide intervals perhaps, but possibly beltsof "mixed" country, now desert, now lake, now gold-bearing. Such mixedcountry one finds towards the eastern confines of the goldfields. Nobetter example of what I mean could be given than Lake Darlot, of whichone might make an almost complete circuit and be in a desert country allthe time. Should we find auriferous country in the "far back, " it was notmy intention to stop on it (and, indeed, our limited supplies would havemade that difficult), but to push on to Hall's Creek, Kimberley, investigating the remaining portion of unknown on the way; then to refitand increase the means of transport, and so return to the auriferouscountry in a condition to remain there and properly prospect. These werethe ideas that possessed me before our journey commenced. 

I do not wish to institute comparisons, but it is often said that aprospector, or pioneer, who explores with the hope of gain to himself, cannot be deserving in an equal degree of the credit due to those who haverisked their lives in the cause of science. I may point out that theselatter have not only been at no expense themselves, but have been paidsalaries for their services, and have, in addition, been rewarded bygrants of money and land--and deservedly so. Yet a man willing to take thesame risks, and venture the fruits of perhaps years of hard work, inequipping and bearing all the expenses of an expedition, is credited withno nobler incentive than the "lust of gold"--because he hopes, with avague chance of his hope being realised, to be repaid by compelling Natureto part with some of her hidden treasures. 

The prospector in his humble way slowly but surely opens up the country, making horse or camel-pads, here, there, and everywhere, from water towater, tracks of the greatest service to the Government road-maker andsurveyor who follow after. He toils and labours, suffers, and does heroicdeeds, all unknown except to the few. He digs soaks and wells many feet indepth, makes little dams in creeks, protects open water from contaminationby animals, and scores of other services, primarily for his own benefit, it is true, but also for the use of those who come after. Very fewrecognise the immense value of the work carried out by prospectors who arenot actuated only by the greed for gold, as I, who know them, can assert. Some wish to satisfy a longing to determine the nature of new country, to penetrate where others have never been; others work for love ofadventure and of the free bush life; while many are anxious to win whatdistinction may fall to the lot of successful travellers, though rewardor distinction are seldom accorded to prospectors. But beyond all this, there is the glorious feeling of independence which attracts a prospector. Everything he has is his own, and he has everything that IS his own withhim; he is doing the honest work of a man who wins every penny he maypossess by the toil of his body and the sweat of his brow. He calls no manmaster, professes no religion, though he believes in God, as he cannotfail to do, who has taken the chances of death in the uphill battle oflife "outside the tracks, " though he would perhaps be annoyed if you toldhim so; and it is only by intimate acquaintance with him that you can knowthat his God is the same as other men's, though called by another name. For the rest, he lives an honourable life, does many acts of kindness tothose in need, never leaves his mate in the lurch, and goes "straight" tothe best of his ability. For him, indeed, "Two things stand like stone: Kindness in another's trouble, Courage in his own. "

As to his work, the results remain, even though he keeps no record. Shouldhe find good country or gold, the land is soon occupied--sooner than ifsome officially recognised expedition had reported it. For in the one casethe man is known and trusted by his fellow-prospectors, while in the otherthere is not only the bushman's dislike of anything official to beovercome, but the curious conviction, which most of them possess, that anyone in the position of a geologist, or other scientific calling, mustnecessarily be an ass! In the same way, if the country met with isuseless, the fact soon becomes known amongst the prospectors, who avoid itaccordingly--though a few from curiosity may give it a further trial. Slowly but surely the unaided and individual efforts of the prospector, bring nearer to civilisation the unknown parts of Australia. Many are theunrecorded journeys of bushmen, which for pluck and endurance would rankwith any of those of recognised explorers. 

The distances accomplished by their journeys are certainly of no greatlength, as, indeed, they hardly could be, seeing their scanty means andinadequate equipment; and yet in the aggregate they do as great an amountof useful work as a man who by a single journey leaves his name on the mapof Australia. It has always seemed a shame to me, how little prospectorsare encouraged. No inducement is offered them to give information to theGovernment; they may do so if they like, but they cannot hope to getanything for it in return. My old mate, Luck, not only surveyed, roughlybut accurately, a track between Southern Cross and Menzies, a distance ofnearly 150 miles, but actually cut the scrub for a part of the way, toallow his camels to pass; shortly after a Government road was to be cutbetween the two towns, and Luck sent in his map, at the suggestion of thethen head official of the Water Supply, with an application for monetaryreward for his work. His request was refused, his map never returned, andstrangely enough the new road followed his traverse from water to waterwith startling exactitude. Who was to blame I cannot say; but someonemust be in fault when a man, both able and willing to do such useful workis not only neglected, but to all intents and purposes robbed. This is notthe only instance of the apathy of the Government in such matters, but isa sufficient example of the lack of encouragement with which prospectorsmeet. 

CHAPTER II

MEMBERS AND EQUIPMENT OF EXPEDITION

The most important question in the organisation of an expedition of longduration is the choice of one's companions. Many men are excellent fellowsin civilisation and exactly the reverse in the bush, and, similarly, someof the best men for bush work are quite unfitted for civilised life. I wastherefore grievously disappointed when I heard the decision of my latepartners not to accompany me. Dave Wilson thought it unwise to comebecause his health was poor and his blood completely out of order, asevinced by the painful sores due to what is termed "the Barcoo Rot. " Thisdisease is very common in the bush, where no vegetables or change of foodcan be obtained, and must be something akin to scurvy. It is usuallyaccompanied by retching and vomiting following every attempt to eat. Thesufferer invariably has a voracious appetite, but what he eats is oflittle benefit to him. The skin becomes very tender and soft, and theslightest knock or scratch, even a touch sometimes, causes a wound whichgradually spreads in all directions. The back of the hand is the usualspot to be first affected, then the arms, and in a bad case the legs also, which become puffy at the joints, and before long the wretched victimwill be covered with sores and abrasions. No external application ofointment or anything of that nature seems to do any good, thoughthe wounds are deep and leave but little scar. After a month or twoin the bush one is pretty sure to develop this complaint, which inthe dusty, hot weather is further aggravated by the swarms of flies, whose poisonous nature is made evident to any one who has killed them. In my own case I have found fine white wood-ashes, preferably of themulga, to have a healing and drying effect. Ashes are used by the nativesfor healing wounds, and I found them very efficacious in cases of sorebacks amongst camels. Nothing but an entire change of diet and way ofliving can cure the "Barcoo"; constant washing, an impossibility"out-back, " being essential. Dave, having had his sickness for some longtime, was physically unable to form one of the party, to my sorrow, for he was a man in whom I had the greatest confidence, and one whosepluck and endurance were unquestionable. 

Alfred Morris joined his brother in a reef the latter had found, andCharlie Stansmore was not at all well. Thus I was for the time stranded. There was no difficulty in getting men--of a sort! but just the right kindof man was not easily found. My old friend Benstead added one more to themany good turns he has done me by recommending Joe Breaden, who had justfinished a prospecting journey with Mr. Carr-Boyd and was looking out fora job. Benstead had known him from boyhood, in Central Australia, andgave him the highest character--not higher than he merited, though, as I hope these pages will make clear. Most of us have, I think, aninstinct that tells us at once whether to trust another or the reverse. One can say on sight, "I have perfect confidence in that man. " As soon asI saw Breaden I felt a voice within me saying, "That's just the man youwere looking for. " I told him my plans and the salary I could afford togive him; he, in his silent way, turned me and my project over in his mindfor some few minutes before he said the one word "Right, " which to himwas as binding as any agreement. 

A fine specimen of Greater Britain was Joe Breaden, weighing fifteen stoneand standing over six feet, strong and hard, about thirty-five years ofage, though, like most back-blockers, prematurely grey, with the keen eyeof the hunter or bushman. His father had been through the Maori War, andthen settled in South Australia; Breaden was born and bred in the bush, and had lived his life away up in Central Australia hundreds of miles froma civilised town. And yet a finer gentleman, in the true sense of theword, I have never met with. Such men as he make the backbone of thecountry, and of them Australia may well be proud. Breaden had with him hisblack-boy "Warri, " an aboriginal from the McDonnell Ranges of CentralAustralia, a fine, smart-looking lad of about sixteen years, whom Breadenhad trained, from the age of six, to ride and track and do the usual oddjobs required of black-boys on cattle stations. I had intended getting adischarged prisoner from the native jail at Rotnest. These make excellentboys very often, though prison-life is apt to develop all their nativecunning and treachery. Warri, therefore, was a distinct acquisition. 

Having made so successful a start in the choice of mates, I turned myattention to the purchase of camels. My idea had been to have twelve, for it seemed to me that a big number of camels was more a handicap thanan advantage in country where the chances of finding a large supply ofwater were so small. Another excellent reason for cutting down the caravanwas the question of expense. Eventually I decided on nine as being theleast we could do with. Nine of the very best they must be, so I spared nopains in the choosing of them. Mr. Stoddart, the manager of a largeCarrying Company, from whom I bought them, said that he had never comeacross any one so hard to please! However, I meant to have none but thebest, and I got them--five splendid South Australian bulls, three ofmature years and two youngsters--all a proper match for my old train offour. The best camels, unfortunately, are not the cheapest! The averagevalue of our caravan was 72 pounds 10 shillings--a tremendous amount whencompared with their cost in other countries. In Somaliland, for instance, for the price I paid for my nine, I could get one hundred and sixty-threecamels! But the Somali camel from all accounts is a very poor performer, compared to his kinsman in the Antipodes, his load being about 200 lbs. Against the Australian's 6 to 9 cwt. 

The new camels were christened Kruger, Prepeh, Mahatma Billy (always knownas Billy), Redleap, and Stoddy. These, together with my old friends Czar, Satan, and Shiddi, I put under Breaden's charge; and he and Warri campedwith them a few miles from the town whilst I completed preparations. Rain was falling at the time, the wet weather lasting nearly a fortnight;the whole country around Coolgardie was transformed from a sea of dustinto a "Slough of Despond, " and, seeing that five out of the nine camelswere bulling, Breaden had anything but a pleasant time. Amongst camels, it is the male which comes on season, when, for a period of about sixweeks annually, he is mad and unmanageable, and in some cases dangerous. Once, however, a camel knows you as his friend, in whatever state of mindhe may be, he will not harm you, though a stranger would runconsiderable risk. The duration of this bulling depends entirely on whatwork they are doing; camels running in the bush without work will remainperhaps three months on season, and a horrible nuisance they are too, for they fight anything they come across, and will soon turn a peacefulcamp of unoffending camels into a pandemonium. When in this state theywill neither eat, drink, nor sleep, and unless tied down or carefullywatched will wander far away, and sometimes start off full gallop, in theshortest of hobbles, and not stop under five or six miles. The"scotch hobble" prevents this, for by having a chain from a hobble-strapon the foreleg to another on the hind, the least attempt at gallopingwill bring the beast down on to his knees. I used this arrangement onSatan, but found that the fixing of the chain on the hind leg was amatter of some danger, which could only be accomplished at the expense ofbeing sent flying by a kick in the stomach at least once; for a camelhates anything touching his hind legs, and any attempt to handle them soonaffords ample evidence that he can let out with great vigour with any legin any direction. You have only to watch one flicking flies off his nosewith his toe to be convinced of that little point of natural history. Before many weeks "on season" a bull becomes so thin and miserable, thatit is hardly credible that he can carry a burden of nearly twice the usualweight; nevertheless it is a fact. I remember a caravan of "season camels"arriving at Lake Darlot, carrying an average load of nine hundred pounds, exclusive of the saddle. The extra load that they carry hardly compensatesfor the trouble of looking after them, for when in that state they fightlike tigers, especially if they have not been long together. Once, however, the bulls become friendly, they only fight in a more or lesshalf-hearted way amongst themselves; but woe betide any alien who findshimself near them--they will then band themselves together and fall uponthat stranger until even his master would not recognise him. There is nofun attached to travelling along a much-frequented track, on which mobsof twenty to fifty camels may be met with; and there is no sleep to be gotat night, for if, following the practice of most white men, a man tiesdown his camels at night, he may be certain that they will be attacked, and from their defenceless position, perhaps seriously injured or killedby the loose camels of some Afghan, who has neither the energy nor senseof fair-play to restrain the bulls under his charge. 

In this troublesome state were our camels, and poor Breaden, being astranger to them, was treated with neither politeness nor respect;Kruger, especially, being so exceedingly ill-behaved as not only to knockBreaden down, but to attempt to kneel on his chest and crush him. This disaster was narrowly averted by the prompt action of Warri, whofirst dragged his master out of danger, and then chastised Kruger with aheavy stick, across the head and neck. Kruger was equally rough to hisfellows, for as in a pioneering party, so in a mob of bull camels, theremust be only one boss. 

This knotty point was fought out with bitter vehemence, Czar, Shiddi, and Misery being vanquished in turn by the redoubtable Kruger. The othersknew their places without fighting; for old Billy, the only one of themnot too young to compete, was far too good-tempered and easy-going todispute anything (except the passage of a salt-lake, as we afterwardsdiscovered). I was naturally sorry to see Misery deposed; but for his agehe fought a good fight, and it was gratifying to possess the champion whocould beat him. What a magnificent fellow was Kruger--a very tower ofstrength, and (excepting of course when in the state above described)with a nature like that of an old pet sheep. 

In the meantime I was under the sheltering roof of my old foster-mother"Bayley's Reward Claim"--the guest of Tom and Gerald Browne. 

Gerald had as his henchman a small boy whom he had taken from a tribeaway out to the eastward of Lake Darlot--a smart little chap, and veryintelligent, kept neat and clean by his master, whose pride in his "boy"knew no bounds. He was wonderfully quick in picking up English and couldcount up to twelve. No doubt by this time he is still more learned. It israther strange that so much intelligence and aptitude for learning shouldbe found in these children of the wilderness, who in their wild andwandering habits are not far removed from animals--for neither "Wynyeri, "the boy in question, nor any of his tribe, could by any possibility haveseen a white man before 1892. And yet this little chap in a few months isas spruce and clever as any white boy of the same size, and, far fromshowing any fear or respect, evinces a distinct inclination to boss anywhite children with whom he comes in contact. The Australian aboriginal isindeed a puzzle: he lives like a beast of the field, using neither clothesnor house, and to the casual observer is a savage of the lowest type, without brains, or any senses other than those possessed by animals;yet he has his peculiar laws and customs--laws of which the Mosaic rule of"an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth" is the foundation. 

In some districts, and probably all over the continent, were inquiry made, marriage laws of the most intricate kind are strictly adhered to; andthough his ceremonies and rites are unique in their barbarity, yet whenproperly handled he is capable of becoming a useful and intelligent memberof the community. Great tact is necessary in the education of theaboriginals. Neglect turns them into lazy, besotted brutes who are of nouse to anybody; too kind treatment makes them insolent and cunning; tooharsh treatment makes them treacherous; and yet without a certain amountof bullying they lose all respect for their master, and when they deservea beating and do not get it, misconstrue tender-heartedness into fear. The "happy medium" is the great thing; the most useful, contented, and best-behaved boys that I have seen are those that receive treatmentsimilar to that a highly valued sporting dog gets from a just master;"to pet" stands for "to spoil. " Like most black races, the native soondevelops a love for liquor; but fortunately there exists a stringent lawwhich prohibits the giving of drink to a black-fellow, except at therequest of his master. 

It is marvellous how soon a tame boy comes to despise his own people, whenhe far outstrips any white man in his contemptuous manner of speakingabout a "---- black fella. "

One visitor to Bayley's Reward Claim, brought with him from Victoria, a highly educated aboriginal who had been born in civilisation, and whoafterwards married his master's parlourmaid. Jim was a tremendously smartboy, could ride, shoot, box, bowl, or keep wicket against most white men, and any reference to his colour or family was deeply resented. On hisfirst appearance the cook at Bayley's (the wife of one of the miners)proceeded to converse with him in the sort of pigeon-English commonlyused, and handed him a plate of scraps for his dinner, calling out, "Hi, Jacky-Jacky, this one your tucker, " to which Jim replied with sterndignity, "Who the h--- are you calling Jacky-Jacky? Do you think I'ma ---- black-fellow?" The cook, a quiet and ladylike little woman, whohad been a schoolmistress "at home" was not less astounded by theexcellent English, than by the delicate way in which his disapprobationwas expressed. This story of Jim reminds me of one about his master. He was a man who liked to have everything about him smart and showy, andwas quite willing that every one should look upon him as a tremendousswell with the purse of a Croesus. I heard some diggers discussing him:one said he had come to buy up all the mines in the place and must be aman of importance. "Oh, " said his mate, "any one could see 'e was atoff--I seed him black 'is boots and brush his teeth. " "Yes, and 'e wearsa ---- collar too. " Thus was exemplified the old adage "Fine feathers makefine birds. "

Camped near Bayley's was Godfrey Massie, a cousin of Brownes and brotherof the once famous cricketer. He had taken a contract to sink a shaft onthe adjoining lease, but, owing to the death of one of his mates and hisown incapacity to work, due to a "jarred" hand, he was forced to throw upthe job, and quickly agreed to my proposal that he should form one of myparty. People get to a very casual way of doing things on the goldfields. There was no formality about my arrangements; Godfrey helping me pack ata store, and during our work I said without preface, "You'd better cometoo;" "Right, " said he, and the matter was settled. Godfrey, a son of oneof the leading Sydney families, had started life in an insurance office, but soon finding that he was not cut out for city life, went on to aQueensland cattle-station, where he gained as varied a knowledge of bushlife as any could wish for; tiring of breeding and fattening cattle forsomebody else's benefit, he joined the rush to the Tasmanian silver-fieldsand there he had the usual ups and downs--now a man of wealth, and nowcarrying his load of bacon and oatmeal through the jungle on the steepTasmanian mountains. While a field continues to boom, the up-and-downbusiness does not so much signify, but when the "slump" comes it isdistinctly awkward to be in a state of "down. " It is then that the averagespeculator bemoans his hard fate, can't think how he is to live; and yetmanages to do so by borrowing from any more fortunate fellow, and almostinvariably omitting to pay him back. A most lively and entertaining classof men when shares are up, but a miserable, chicken-hearted lot when theluck turns. 

Some, however, of these wandering speculators, who follow from "boom" to"boom, " are of very different mettle and face their luck like men. Such aone was Godfrey, who, when he found himself "broke" in Tasmania, set towork and burned charcoal until he had saved enough money to pay hispassage to Perth; and from there he "humped his bluey" to Coolgardie, and took a job as a miner on his uncle's mine until brighter times shouldcome. The Australian can set us a good example in some matters, and I mustconfess with sorrow that nine out of every ten young Englishmen on thegoldfields, of the same class, would not only be too haughty to work, butwould more readily take to billiards, cards, and borrowing when theyfound themselves in low water--and no man sinks lower than an English"gentlemen" who has gone to the bad, and no one despises him more than anAustralian miner, or is more ready to help him when he shows signs oftrying to help himself by honest work. I had known Godfrey long enough tobe sure that, in the bush, he was as good a man as I could get, hard asnails, and willing to work for other people, as energetically as he wouldfor himself, so long as they treated him fairly. 

My party was now complete, and included a little fox terrier, "Val" byname, whose parents belong to Tom and Gerald Browne, and come of the beststock in Australia. I had intended to take another man, but, since I couldnot get one of the right sort, I had no idea of handicapping the partywith one of the wrong. At the last minute, however, Charlie Stansmorechanged his mind, greatly to my delight, for I knew him to be as sterlinga fellow as one could hope to find. Charlie, too, had knocked about fromQueensland to West Australia, now on a station, now a miner, and nowengine-driver. His people were amongst the earliest settlers on the SwanRiver, and could well remember the great massacre of whites by the blacks;subsequently they moved to Victoria, where they have farming land at thepresent time. A very quiet, reserved man was Charlie, who took a greatinterest in mechanical work and astronomy, a strong man physically andmentally. Thus at last we were ready to tackle whatever the "greatunknown" had in store for us. 

With hearty wishes for success from the few friends who knew where we werebound for, we shook the mud of Coolgardie from our feet and took thenorthern road to Menzies on July 9, 1896. Breaden, Stansmore, Massie, Warri, nine heavily laden camels, and a dog made a fine show, and Iconfess I was near bursting from pride as I watched them. 

Who could foresee that one of us was destined never to return?

Acting on the principle of making mention of matters which I have noticedexcite an amount of interest in "Home" people, though to us, who are usedto them, their importance hardly seems to warrant it, I subjoin a list ofthe articles and provisions with which we started:--

 8 pack-camels. Bulls. South Australian bred. Of ages varying from five to fifteen years. 1 riding-camel. Bull. S. A. Bred. Age five years. Average value of camels; 72 pounds 10 shillings each. 8 pack saddles of Afghan make. 1 riding saddle, made to order by Hardwick, Coolgardie, specially light, and stuffed with chaff. A very excellent saddle. 1 camel brand. D. W. C. 1 doz. Nose pegs. 6 coils of clothes line. 3 coils of wallaby line (like window-blind cord) for nose lines. 5 hanks of twine. 2 long iron needles for saddle mending (also used as cleaning-rod for guns). 2 iron packers for arranging stuffing of saddle. Spare canvas. Spare calico. Spare collar-check. Spare leather, for hobbles and neck-straps. Spare buckles for same. Spare bells. Spare hobble-chains. 6 lbs. Of sulphur. 2 gallons kerosene, to check vermin in camels. 2 gallons tar and oil, for mange in camels. 2 galvanised-iron water casks (15 gallons each). 2 galvanised-iron water casks (17 gallons each), made with bung on top side, without taps, for these are easily broken off. 1 India-rubber pipe for drawing water from tanks. 1 funnel, 3 three-gallon buckets. 1 tin canteen (2 gallons). 2 canvas water tanks, to be erected on poles to hold water baled from soak, &c. 4 canvas water-bags (10 gallons each. ) 4 canvas water-bags (1 1/2 gallons each) slung on camels' necks. 6 Ballarat picks and handles. 3 shovels. 1 axe (7 lbs. ). 1 hammer (7 lbs. ). 1 engineer's hammer. 3 tomahawks. 1 saw. 1 small flat iron anvil. 1 small pair of bellows. 1 iron windlass-handle and fittings. 1 1-inch chisel. 1 brace and bits. 1 3/4 inch auger bit. 1 emery stone. 4 iron dishes. 1 sieve-dish. 1 iron dolly. 1 soldering iron for mending water casks. 2 sticks solder for mending water casks. 1 bottle spirits of salts for mending water casks. 1 case of tools. Screwdriver, small saw, hammer, chisel, file, gimlet, leather-punch, wire nipper, screw wrench, large scissors, &c. 1 case of tools for canvas work (sewing needles, &c. ). 2 lbs. Of copper rivets. Screws. Bolts. 1 box copper wire. Strong thread. 1 1/2 lbs. 3-inch nails. 1 lb. 2-inch nails. 50 feet of rope. 1 duck tent, 6 ft. X 8 ft. 4 flies, 10 ft. X 12 ft. , for covering packs. 4 mosquito nets. 3 saucepans. 3 quart pots. 6 pannikins. 6 plates, enamelled tin. 6 knives, forks, and spoons. 1 stewpan. 1 frying pan, 1 small medicine case (in tabloid form). 7 lbs. Epsom salts. 6 bottles of Elliman's embrocation. 3 bottles of carbolic oil. 3 bottles of eye lotion. 3 bottles of eucalyptus oil. 2 galvanised-iron concertina-made boxes for perishable goods, e. G. , ammunition, journals, &c. 2 twelve-bore shot-guns. 4 colt revolvers, . 380 calibre. 4 Winchester repeaters, . 44 calibre. 200 twelve-bore cartridges. 300 Winchester do. 200 revolver do. 1 bicycle lamp (for night observations). 1 5-inch theodolite and tripod. 2 prismatic compasses. 2 steering compasses (Gregory's pattern). 1 telescope. 1 pair field-glasses. 1 map case. 1 drawing-board. Drawing materials, note-books, &c. 1 binocular camera, with films. (N. B. Not good in hot climate. ) 1 tape measure. 14 50-lb. Bags of flour (700 lbs. ). 35 doz. 1-lb. Tins of meat (420 lbs. ). 5 doz. 1-lb. Tins of fish (60 lbs. ). (N. B. --Not fit for consumption--thrown away. ) 200 lbs. Rice. 70 lbs. Oatmeal. 6 doz. Tins of milk (condensed). 8 doz. Tins baking powder. 4 doz. 1-lb tins of jam. 140 lbs. Sugar, 40 lbs. Salt (for salting down meat--kangaroo, &c. ). 30 lbs. Tea. 2 doz. Tinned fruit. 2 doz. Tinned vegetables. 10 lbs. Currants. 10 lbs. Raisins 40 lbs. Dried apricots. 6 doz. 1-lb. Tins butter. 4 doz. Liebig's Extract. 1 1/2 doz. Pepper (1/4-lb. Tins). 1/2 doz. Curry-powder (1/4-lb. Tins). 9 packets Sunlight soap. 1 box of candles. 6 lbs. Cornflour. 28 doz. Matches. 50 lbs. Tobacco. 100 lbs. Preserved potatoes. 4 bottles good brandy. 1 bottle good rum. 1 hair clipper. Blankets, boots, flannel shirts, trousers (Dungaree and moleskin); &c. 

The stores were calculated to last six months with care and longer shouldwe encounter good country where game could be shot. Everything that couldbe was packed in large leather bags, made to order. Other expeditions havecarried wooden brass-bound boxes; I do not approve of these--first onaccount of their own weight and bulk; second, when empty they are equallybulky and awkward; third, unless articles are of certain shapes anddimensions they cannot be packed in the boxes, which do not "give" likebags. Wooden water casks are generally used--my objections to them arethat they weigh more than the iron ones, are harder to mend, and whenempty are liable to spring or warp from the hot sun. 

It will be seen that a great part of our load consisted of tools which, though weighty, were necessary, should we come on auriferous country, orbe forced to sink to any depth for water: a great many of these tools wereleft in the desert. 

The average load with which each camel started, counting the water casks(the four large ones) full, was 531 lbs. , exclusive of saddle. Kruger andShiddi carried over 750 lbs. Including top loading and saddle. 

These loads, though excessive had the season been summer, were not toogreat to start with in the cooler weather; and every day made somedifference in their weight. 

The brandy was for medicinal purposes only. Even had we been able toafford the room I should not have carried more; for I am convinced thatin the bush a man can keep his health better, and do more work, when heleaves liquor entirely alone. 

CHAPTER III

THE JOURNEY BEGINS

The week's rain had made the roads in a terrible state, where dust hadbeen there was now a foot or so of soft mud, and the ground, which hadbeen hard and clayey, was now so sticky and slippery, that it was not easytravelling for the camels. We passed several camps of Afghans, squattingmiserably under huge tarpaulins, waiting for the roads to dry beforestarting their caravans, loaded with stores for some distant district. There are one or two things that camels are quite unable to do, accordingto an Asiatic driver; one is to travel in wet weather. However, Europeansmanage to work camels, wet or fine; the wily Afghan says, "Camel no dothis, " "Camel no do that, " because it doesn't suit his book that camelshould do so--and a great many people think that he MUST know and isindispensable in the driving of camels; which seems to me to be no moresensible than to say that a chow-dog can only be managed by a Chinaman. 

There is, perhaps, a small amount of risk in travelling in wet weather, for when a camel does slip he does so with a vengeance; each foot seems totake a different direction and thus, spread-eagled under a heavy load, hemight suffer a severe strain or even break a bone. Redleap fell once, but, happily, neither hurt himself nor the load. 

The winter had caused a transformation in the appearance of the bush;everywhere little patches of green grass or saltbush could be seen, andwherever a teamster had stopped to bait his horses, a miniature field ofoats had sprung into life. How we hoped that the rainfall had extendedtowards the interior!

If only we could have started sooner, we should have benefited by the coolweather for a great part of the journey. But though the days were warmenough, there was no doubt about the coldness of the nights. Our blanketswere white with frost in the mornings, and our canvas water-bags frozeninto a solid mass. My thermometer registered 17 degrees F. Just beforedawn on the coldest night. Unhobbling the camels and loading them wasfreezing work, during which our fingers were quite numbed. Shivering, wewalked along until the sun was above the trees, then in a little its rayswarmed to their work, and we would peal off now a coat, now a jersey orshirt, until in the middle of the day the heat was too great to bepleasant. Poor little Val hated the cold nights, and, as I always sleepaway from a fire, she used to crawl into my blankets and lie up againstmy back, which was quite pleasant for both of us. Most men like to sleepalongside a roaring fire in the winter, but I have always found that afterthe fire burns out and the night becomes colder, the change of temperaturebecomes unbearable. If the fire burned all night it would be a differentmatter; but to do so it must be replenished, and this entails leaving warmblankets to carry wood. It is amusing to see two men camped by a firewhich has burned low, both lying awake, and watching to see if the otherwill get up and attend to it. 

The best recipe for avoiding cold is to sleep soundly; and to sleepsoundly one must be tired. As a rule night found us in this state, for weall discovered walking rather trying at first, none of us having done anyfor some time. We were all pleased, I think, when our stage of seven oreight hours was finished--especially Breaden, who had given himself anasty strain in loading the camels, and who had a deal more weight tocarry than we thin people. Australian bushmen do not, as a rule, make goodwalkers--their home has been the saddle. It was the more necessary, therefore, that we should start on foot at once and carry out a system oftraining, in which I am a great believer; thus we never ate or drankbetween breakfast at daylight and tea at night--from nine to eleven hoursafterwards. Stopping in the middle of the day wastes time, and entails theunloading of the camels or putting them down with their burdens on, avery bad plan; the time so spent at midday is far more valuable in theevening, when the camels can employ it by feeding. Then again, a meal, really unnecessary, during the day soon makes an appreciable difference inthe amount of provisions used. Breaden and Godfrey consoled themselveswith tobacco, but Charlie and I were not smokers. I used to be, but gaveup the practice because it made me so dry--an effect that it does not haveon every one, some finding that a smoke relieves not only hunger butthirst. I have only one objection to a smoker as a travelling companion, and that is, that if by some horrible mishap he runs out of tobacco, hebecomes quite unbearable. The same holds with an excessive tea-drinker. I was specially careful, therefore, to have a sufficient supply of thesearticles. A large amount of tea was not required, since Godfrey was theonly confirmed tea-drinker. 

On July 15th we reached Menzies, having followed the telegraph line tothat point. And a very badly constructed line this is, the poles beingtimber and not sunk sufficiently deep into the ground--a contract job. The iron poles which are now used in the Government-constructed lines area vast improvement. Menzies was the last town we called at, and was notso specially inviting that we regretted leaving it. Niagara, the nextcity, we avoided, and turned up the old Lake Darlot road, some fifteenmiles to the west of it. Between Menzies and Sandy Creek, close to wherewe turned, the open, saltbush plain which fringes the salt lake, LakePrinsep, was looking quite charming, dotted all over with patches ofsplendid green and yellow herbage, plants like our clover and dandelion, and thousands of pink and white everlastings. There can be no doubt thatwith a better rainfall or with some means of irrigation, could artesianwater be found, a great part of the goldfields would be excellent pastoralland. As it is, however, a few weeks suffice to again alter the face ofthe country to useless aridity. We camped a day on Sandy Creek, to allowour beasts to enjoy, while they could, the luscious green feed; I embracedthe opportunity of taking theodolite observations for practice. The pool, some eighty yards long, and twenty wide, fringed with overhanging bushesand weeping willow with its orange-red berries, made a pretty picture;turkeys evidently came there to water, but we had not the luck toshoot any. 

The northern track from Sandy Creek deviated so much on account ofwatering-places, thick scrub, and broken rocks, that we left it and cutthrough the bush to some clay-pans south of Cutmore's Well; andsuccessfully negotiated on our way the lake that had given me so muchtrouble when I and the fever were travelling together. All through thescrub every open spot was covered with grass, that horrible spear-grass(ARISTIDI), the seeds of which are so troublesome to sheep and horses. I have seen sores in a horse's mouth into which one could put twofingers, the flesh eaten away by these vicious little seeds. When turnedout on this kind of grass, horses' mouths should be cleaned every day. Camels do not suffer, as they seldom eat grass unless long, young, andspecially succulent. We, however, were rather annoyed by the persistentway in which the seeds worked through our clothes and blankets; and beforemuch walking, our trousers were fringed with a mass of yellow seeds, likethose of a carter who has wound wisps of straw round his ankles. Trulyrain is a marvellous transformer; not only vegetable but animal life isaffected by it; the bush is enlivened by the twittering of small birds, which come from nobody knows where, build their nests, hatch out theiryoung, and disappear! Almost every bush held a nest, usually occupied by adiamond-sparrow. Her nest is round, like a wren's, with one small entranceand is built roughly of grass, lined with soft, small feathers. The eggs, numbering four to five in the few nests we disturbed, are white and of thesize and shape of our hedge-sparrow's. I am pretty sure that the nestingseason depends entirely on the rain. After rain, the birds nest, howeverirregular the seasons. 

As well as small birds, teal had found their way to the clay-pans, andgave us both sport and food. These water-holes are the tail-end ofWilson's Creek, on which is sunk Cutmore's Well, where splendid water wasstruck at a depth of about eighty feet. Flood-waters from the creek spreadout over these flats, and eventually reach the lake already mentioned, to the South. The caretaker at the Well occupied his spare time by growingvegetables, and our last meal, with white men near us, for many months tocome, was accompanied by pumpkins and turnips. Camped here, too, was a mobof cattle, about 130 head. The stockmen told us they had started from thehead of the Gascoyne River with 2, 000 sheep and 150 bullock's. Leaving thestation, some four hundred miles to the N. N. W. Of Cutmore's, theytravelled by Lake Way, where a fair-sized mining community was thenestablished, and Lawlers, where the advance of civilisation was marked bynumerous "pubs. " Their stock had not suffered from want of food orwater--in fact, a very general rain seemed to have spread from Coolgardieto the Nor'-West. The cattle and our camels seemed quite friendly; thelatter were settling down to work, and could now be allowed to go in theirhobbles at night, in place of being tied down. Only an occasional fightdisturbed our sleep; but at the the clay-pans two strangers, wild andsavage, caused a deal of trouble, necessitating one or other of us beingup all night. However, we would soon be beyond such annoyances. At thispoint our journey might be said to begin, for here we left the lastoutpost of civilisation, and saw the last white face for some time tocome. 

CHAPTER IV

WE ENTER THE DESERT

Our position was in lat. 28 degrees 35 minutes, long. 120 degrees57 minutes, and from this point I started to map the country as we went. We left here on July 23rd steering a general N. E. By E. Course, myintention being to strike Mount Allott and Mount Worsnop, on Forrest'sroute of 1874--two very noticeable hills, 280 miles distant. I chose thesefor the double reason that by hitting them off correctly, as I hoped todo, I should not only give confidence to my companions, but have theopportunity of comparing my amateur work with that of a trained surveyor. Our course would clear the southern end of Lake Wells with which I had nodesire to become entangled; and by so avoiding it I should cross a pieceof country hitherto untraversed. 

Our way lay across a rough range of bare diorite hills, whose stony slopesand steep gullies were not appreciated by the camels. Beyond the hillsflat mulga-clad country extended for several days' march, only broken bythe occurrence of low cliffs or terraces of sandstone. These are ofpeculiar formation, running sometimes for five or six miles without abreak; abrupt, on one side, and perhaps fifty feet high, with brokenboulders strewn about the foot of the cliff from which jut out occasionalbuttresses. It takes some time to find a break in the cliffs, or a gully, up which one can pass. Once on the top, trouble is over, for the summit isflat though often covered with dense scrub; from it a gradual slope takesone presently down to the same level as the foot of the cliffs. Occasionalpines find a footing on the face of the rocks--how they manage to grow orget moisture is hard to tell--showing up fresh and green against the dullgrey background of rock. Round the foot of the cliffs a small plain ofsaltbush is usually found, through which numerous small creeks andwatercourses wind their way into the scrub beyond. In any one of these, as we saw them, water could be obtained by sinking in the gravelly bed. From the summit of the cliffs, which is often perforated by caves andholes opening on to the sheer face, square bluffs and walls can be seen, standing up above the sea of scrub, each exactly like its neighbour, anditself when again seen from another point. Doubtless the numberless creeksjoin and form one larger creek probably running South, as the generaltrend of the country is in that direction. 

We were getting well into the swing of things now, for at first there isalways some trouble in the distribution of the loads and in loading up andunloading. On camping at night the camels were always put down in acircle, as near as might be. All top-loading was taken off and placed nearthe centre; the side loads placed one on either side of the camel, and thesaddle by his tail. Thus everything, instead of being scattered about in along line, was handy, and easily reloaded the next morning. At this time, when the packs were heavy, it took us thirty minutes from the time Breadenand Warri brought the camels in to the time we were ready to start;Breaden, Charlie, Warri, and I loading, whilst Godfrey, who acted as cook, got his pots and pans together and packed the "tucker-bags. " There islittle of interest in this scrub; an occasional plant perhaps attractsone's attention. Here and there a vine-like creeper (an Asclepiad) trailsupon the ground. With the fruits of this, commonly called cotton-pods, the black-fellows vary their diet of grubs and the very rare emu orkangaroo. The skin, the edible part, is soft, thick, and juicy, and hasquite a nice sweet taste. The blacks eat them raw or roasted inwood-ashes. The seeds are of a golden yellow, and are joined on to a silkyfibrous core. When bruised the pod exudes a white, milky juice. 

Numerous large spiders inhabit the scrubs and build their webs from treeto tree; wonderfully strong they are too, and so frequent as to become anuisance to whoever is walking first. It is quite unpleasant when one'seyes are fixed on the compass, to find, on looking up, that one's hat hasswept off a great web, whose owner runs over one, furious at unprovokedassault. Though I got the full benefit of these insects, I was neverbitten; they may or may not be poisonous, but look deadly enough, beingfrom one to four inches from toe to toe. The scrubs for the most part arethick and without a break for many miles. Sometimes open country is metwith--not always a welcome change. 

July 26th the thickets became more and more open until we came across anarrow salt-lake; by leading each camel separately we reached the otherside without mishap, and congratulated ourselves on our good fortune, until the next morning when we found that our camp had been on an island;and the lake stretched North and South as far as the eye could reach, until lake and sky became one in a shimmering mirage. I think it probablethat this lake joins the Eastern portion of Lake Darlot, which lies to theN. N. W. , and connects with the narrow lake seen by Luck and myself in 1894, to the S. S. E. Whatever its extent there was no doubt about its nature;from 8. 30 until 1. 30 we were occupied in hauling, digging out, anddragging our camels, and in humping on our backs some 5, 000 lbs. Weight ofpacks, across a channel not half a mile wide. Camels vary very much intheir ability to cross bogs. Those which take small steps succeed best;the majority take steps of ordinary length and, in consequence, their hindfeet slide into the hole left by the fore, and in an instant they arepinned by the hind leg up to the haunch. Kruger was splendid, and simplywent through by main force, though he eventually sank close to the shore. I had carried over some of the loading, amongst it my camera, and wasjust in time to take a snapshot as he was sinking. Shiddi, the cunning oldrogue, could not be persuaded across; he would try the ground with onefoot and then draw back like a timid bather. We left him roaring to hismates and yet afraid to join them, until we were ready to start again. Assoon as he saw the caravan disappear over the sandhill which abutted onthe lake, he took a desperate plunge and came through with ease. 

The shores of the lake, as usual, were covered with samphire, havingsomething the appearance of heather. At this season the plant is soft andjuicy, and, though salt, makes capital feed for camels. In the summer itwithers up to dry sticks and has no moisture. Once out of sight of thelake we were disgusted at coming into a belt of flat spinifex country, and were afraid that already we had reached the confines of the desert, more especially since in 1894 I had placed its edge in that longitude. However, we were agreeably disappointed, for after a few miles thespinifex ceased, and on penetrating a dense thicket we debouched on a finegrassy flat. In the centre ran a line of large white gums (Creek gums, EUCALYPTUS ROSTRATA), the sure sign of a creek. We were not mistaken, fordown the avenue a watercourse wound its way. The gravelly bed was quitedry. Climbing a tree, from which to follow with my glasses the course ofthe creek, I could see some hills to the northward; in them the creekevidently rose. Whilst I was climbing, Breaden amused himself by breakingoff pieces of the small roots of the gums which the creek had washed here. By breaking these quite an appreciable amount of moisture could be got, enough to save a man's life. But I fancy that these roots only hold waterafter rain, and that when they are water-bearing, pools also are to befound in the creeks. Numerous emu and turkey tracks led up thewatercourse, but, though seeing several emu, we were unable to get a shot. Following the creek upwards, for near the head one is likely to find rockypools, we soon came on a nice waterhole and made camp. I traced the creekto its source in the evening and found the hills to be granite, anddiscovered one deep pool in the solid rock under a steep step in the creekbed. Along the banks herbage and green stuff were growing in profusion. Our beasts were content to feed amicably together, and with the exceptionof a sly bite no longer showed signs of ill-feeling. We were thankfulindeed to see them "off season. " Here we gave them a good drink and filledour casks and neckbags, carrying in all sixty-two gallons. We had been sowell off for water up to this point, that we had hopes that the rain hadpenetrated inland. 

Leaving the creek on July 29th we again entered the scrub, finding itlower and more open, the ground covered with occasional patches of grassand a little squashy plant straggling along the ground--"Pigweed" is thelocal name; it belongs, I believe, to the "portulacaceae. " It is eaten bythe blacks, and would make excellent feed for stock were it higher fromthe ground. 

This day we saw the last auriferous country we were to meet with untilKimberley was reached. These hills, of diorite, with occasional blows ofironstone, I take to be a continuation the Neckersgat Range (Wells, 1892). Many traces of prospectors were visible here--the last to be seen formany a day--shallow dry-blowing holes and little heaps of sieved dirt, and the tracks of camels and horses. This was a piece of country worthtrying, had we not had other objects in view. 

Two rather curious ironstone dykes, standing square and wall-like abovethe ground, occur in these hills, some seven miles apart, running nearlyNorth and South and parallel; between them a deep but narrow creek, asaltbush flat, and a ridge of diorite. Standing out prominently to thesouth of the first dyke are two sugar-loaf hills, and, beyond them, distant ranges are visible. Leaving the range the country to the Eastunderwent a distinct change for the worse; and midday of July 31st foundus on the borders of an unmistakable desert, the North-West corner of theGreat Victoria Desert. We had so far travelled 110 miles from Cutmore'sWell, only some 250 in a direct line from Coolgardie and were already inthe desert! Wilderness perhaps would be a better name for this part; forthe sand now flat, now blown into dunes, is not bare, but overgrown by thehateful spinifex and timbered pretty thickly with desert gums (EUCALYPTUSEUDESMOIDES) and low acacia bushes. 

I am told that the term "spinifex, " though generally employed by thosewho have the pleasure of the acquaintance of the plant, is wrongly used. I do not know its right name, and have seen it described as "Spinifex, ""Porcupine Grass, " "TRIODIA, " "TRIODIA PUNGENS, " and "FESTUCA IRRITANS. "Why such a wretched, useless plant should have so many names Icannot say. So often am I bound to refer to it that I might vary themonotony by using each in turn. However, I will stick to the term I havealways heard used. "Spinifex" grows in round, isolated hummocks, one tothree feet high; these hummocks are a dense mass of needle-like prickles, and from them grow tall blades of very coarse grass to a height ofsometimes six feet. Occasionally the hummocks are not round or isolated, but grow in crescent form or almost complete rings, sometimes there is notop growth--however it grows it is most accursed vegetation to walkthrough, both for men and camels. Whatever form it takes it seems to beso arranged that it cannot be stepped over or circumvented--one must inconsequence walk through it and be pricked, unpleasantly. Camels andhorses suffer rather severely sometimes, the constant pricking causingsores on their legs. So long, however, as a camel does not drag his hindlegs he will be no worse treated than by having all the hair worn off hisshins. The side of the foot is an easily affected spot, and a raw there, gives them great pain and is hard to cure. 

There are two varieties of spinifex known to bushmen--"spinifex" and"buck" (or "old man") spinifex. The latter is stronger in the prickleand practically impossible to get through, though it may be avoided bytwists and turns. There are a few uses for this horrible plant; forexample, it forms a shelter and its roots make food for the kangaroo, orspinifex, rat, from its spikes the natives (in the northern districts)make a very serviceable gum, it burns freely, serves in a measure to bindthe sand and protect it from being moved by the wind, and makes a goodmattress when dug up and turned over. I should advise no one to try andsleep on the plant as it grows, for "He who sitteth on a thistle risethup quickly. " But the thistle has one advantage, viz. , that it does notleave its points in its victim's flesh. In Northern Australia spinifex isin seed for three weeks, and when in this state, forms most excellentfeed for horses, and fattens almost as quickly as oats; for the rest ofthe year it is useless. 

I can imagine any one, on being suddenly placed on rising ground with avast plain of waving spinifex spreading before him--a plain relievedoccasionally by the stately desert oak, solemn, white, andmysterious--saying, "Ah! what a charming view--how beautiful that rollingplain of grass! its level surface broken by that bold sandhill, fiery-redin the blaze of sun!" But when day after day, week after week, and monthafter month must be passed always surrounded by the hateful plant, one'ssense of the picturesque becomes sadly blunted. 

This was our first introduction to the desert and, though a littlemonotonous, it seemed quite pleasant, and indeed was so, when comparedto the heartrending country met with later in our journey. 

The sand has been formed (blown, I suppose) into irregular ridges, running more or less parallel, but in no one fixed direction. From theedge of the desert to Mount Worsnop, a distance of nearly two hundredmiles in a straight line, the country presented the same appearance. First a belt, eight to ten miles wide, of sand-ridges from thirty tofifty feet high, with a general direction of E. By S. And W. By N. ; thena broad sand-flat of equal breadth, either timbered with desert gums, oropen and covered with spinifex breast-high, looking in the distance likea field of ripe corn; next another series of ridges with a S. E. And N. W. Direction; then, with startling suddenness, a small oasis, enclosed ornearly surrounded by sheer broken cliffs of desert sandstone, from whichlittle creeks run out into the sand, winding their way for a mile or twobetween the ridges. Dry watercourses these, except immediately afterrain; in their beds are found native wells five to ten feet in depth, sometimes holding water; on their banks, round the foot of the cliffs, and on the flat where the creeks merge into the sand, grows longgrass--kangaroo-grass--and, in the winter magnificent herbage. Next wefind a dense thicket, and, this passed, we come again to open plains. Andthus sand-ridges now E. And W. , now S. E. And N. W. , now S. W. And N. E. (asin the vicinity of Empress Spring), and now sandhills heaped up withoutregularity, alternate with mulga thickets, open plains of spinifex, andflat, timbered country. The most noticeable vegetation is of coursespinifex; as well as that, however, are several shrubs which form goodcamel feed, such as ACACIA SALICINA, with its pretty, scented flower likea little golden powder-puff; the quondong (FUSANUS ACUMINATUS), or"native peach tree, " a graceful little black-stemmed tree, against whosefresh, green leaves the fruit, about the size of a cherry and of abrilliant red, shows out with appetising clearness. Alas! it is a fraudand delusion, for the stone forms more than three-quarters of the fruit, leaving only a rather tasteless thick skin, which is invariably perforatedby small worms. 

Dotted over the open plains the native poplar (CODONOCARPUS) standssentry, its head, top-heavy from the mass of seeds, drooping gracefullyto the setting sun; the prevalent wind at the present day would seem tobe from the E. N. E. Here, too, an occasional grass tree or "black-boy"may be seen, and at intervals little clumps of what is locally termed"mustard bush, " so named from the strong flavour of the leaf; camels eatthis with voracity, of which fact one becomes very sensible when theychew their cuds. 

This description hardly suits a "desert"; yet, in spite of the trees andshrubs, it is one to all intent. All is sand, and throughout the regionno water is to be found, unless immediately after rain in the littlecreeks, or in some hidden rock-hole. Even a heavy storm of rain wouldleave no signs in such country; half an hour after the fall no waterwould be seen, except on the rocky ground, which only occurs at verylong intervals. The greedy sand soaks up every drop of water, and fromthe sand the trees derive their moisture. The winter rain causes such agrowth of herbage around the cliffs and on the sandhills--to die, alas!in a few weeks' time--that one is inclined to wonder if by means of boresthis wilderness will be made of use to man. What artesian bores have donefor parts of Queensland and Algeria they may in the distant future do forthis, at present useless, interior, where all is still, and the desertsilence unbroken by any animal life, excepting always the ubiquitousspinifex rat. A pretty little fellow this, as he hops along on his longhind legs, bounding over the prickly stools like an animated footballwith a tail. As he jumps, he hangs one forepaw by his side, while theother is stretched out with the little hand dangling as if the wrist werebroken. Everything must be spoken of comparatively in this country; thusthe ubiquitous rat may be seen, at the most, a dozen times in a day'smarch; an oasis may measure no more than thirty yards across; a creek isdry, and may be only half a mile long and a few feet broad; a high rangemay stand three to four hundred feet above the surrounding country, seldommore; and "good feed" may mean that the camels find something to eatinstead of being tied down without a bite. 

For instance, to continue our journey, on August 1st we have ". . . Thesame miserable country until the evening, when a sudden change brings usinto a little oasis enclosed by cliffs, a small creek running through it. Here we made camp, the camels enjoying a great patch of feed--could findno water--saw several small quails--a number of grasshoppers and littlebees--flies of course in abundance. Lat. 27 degrees 40 minutes, long. 122degrees 54 minutes. Cloudy night. "

The next day we sighted a big range to the East across a deep valley, anda broken table-top range to the North. Following down the little creek wecame on a shallow native well, quite dry; crossing the grassy flat inwhich it was dug, winding through a thicket, we again reached open sand. Here we saw for the first time since leaving Coolgardie the tracks ofwild aboriginals, and the first tracks of blacks, either wild or tame, since leaving Cutmore's Well. Evidently this part of the world is notoverpopulated. Since everything pointed to the rain having been general, since the tracks were leading in a direction nearly opposite to our own, and since at the time we had water enough, we did not waste time infollowing them up. 

That night we were forced to camp on a barren spot, and tied the camelsdown foodless; one night without feed does them no harm--less harm than ifthey wandered miles in their hobbles looking for it. The weather was nowdistinctly hot, unpleasant and stuffy, as if about to thunder; but thenights were still cold. At midday we saw two fine quondong trees; how thecamels devoured them, leaves, fruit, stones and all! Emus swallow thestones without inconvenience; apparently a camel has an equally convenientinterior, but he brings them up again in his cud and drops them out of hismouth as his jaws move from side to side. 

Amongst some broken rocks this day, Breaden found a dingo camped in acave with a litter of pups. Had we been returning instead of only juststarting on our travels, I should certainly have secured one--not, Iexpect, without some trouble, for the mother showed signs of fiercehostility when Breaden looked into her lair. There were no traces ofwater anywhere near, and I have no doubt that the mother, having found asuitable spot for her expected family, would think nothing of travellingmany miles for her daily drink. Near the rocks I noticed a littleblue-flowered plant with the leaf and scent of the geranium. 

The appearance of the country now soon began to get less fresh, anddrier, and all the next two days we were crossing sandhills, the onlyvariety being afforded by Valerie. She had lately made it evident thatshe would soon follow the example of the lady dingo. Though I hadfrequently tried to make her ride on one of the packs, she preferred totrot along at the heels of Czar, receiving from him occasional kicks ifby chance she touched him, which did not tend to improve the pups so soonto see the light. Tying her on was no better; she only struggled andnearly hanged herself. She had therefore to walk as she desired. Havingmade camp, and unrolled our blankets ready to turn into them when thetime came, Breaden and I experimented on numerous mallee-roots which wedug up, but in every case failed to find any appreciable moisture, Onreturning to camp we found our party had been increased by one--a largepup which Val had deposited in her master's blankets. It was dead, whichwas fortunate, as we could hardly have kept it, and would not have likedto destroy the little animal, born in such unusual surroundings. 

No change occurred in the country the next day, but the march was savedfrom its usual monotony by Warri finding two mallee-hens' nests. Unluckily they had no eggs, though the birds' tracks were fresh andnumerous. These nests are hollowed out in the sand, to a depth of perhapstwo and a half feet, conical shaped, with a mouth some three feet indiameter; the sand from the centre is scraped up into a ring round themouth. Several birds help in this operation, and when finished lay theireggs on a layer of leaves at the bottom; they then fill in the hole tothe surface with small twigs and more leaves. Presumably the eggs arehatched by spontaneous heat, the green twigs and leaves producing aslightly moist warmth, similar to that of the bird's feathers. I haveseen numbers of these nests, never with eggs in, but often with theshells from recently hatched birds lying about. How the little ones forcetheir way through the sticks I do not understand, but Warri and manyothers who have found the eggs assure me that they do so. 

Towards evening we neared a prominent bluff that we had sighted the daybefore, and got a further insight into the habits of the wild dog. Adingo--a female, and possibly our friend with the pups--had followed uspersistently all day. Godfrey, who was walking behind the camels, openedthe acquaintance by practising his revolver-shooting upon her. His pooraim seemed to give her confidence, and before long she started to playwith Val. By nightfall we had petted and fed her out of our hands, andgiven her a small drop of water from our fast diminishing supply--this atthe earnest request of Godfrey, who offered to give her some of hisshare; and indeed it seemed rather cruel to refuse a poor famished beastthat had come to us in her distress. We all agreed how nice it was to havewon the affections of a real wild dog. By daybreak our feelings of lovehad somewhat abated, as our friend prowled about all night, poking hernose into pots and pans, chewing saddles, pack-bags, straps, and even ourblankets as we lay in them, and cared no more for blows than for theviolent oaths that were wasted upon her. This strange creature accompaniedus for two more days, trotting along ahead of the camels, with anoccasional look behind to see if she was on the right course, and thenfalling at full length in the shade of some bush with her head on herpaws, waiting for us to pass. Eventually my irritability got the betterof my indulgence, and a shrewd whack over the nose put an end to ouracquaintanceship. 

Near the bluff were many low, stony hills, with the usual smallwatercourses; in them we hunted high and low for water until darknessovertook us. To the North other similar hills could be seen, by myreckoning a part of the Ernest Giles Range (Wells, 1892). No doubt fromthe distance these hills would look more imposing. Our camp was in lat. 27 degrees 9 minutes, long. 123 degrees 59 minutes. August 6th. 

On August 7th we continued to search the hills, but had to leave themwithout finding water. We had now been since July 29th without seeingany, and in consequence of the ease with which we had, up to that date, found water had not husbanded our supply as carefully as we might havedone, and now had to put ourselves on a very short allowance indeed. Thefurther we advanced the worse the country became, and the greater theincrease in temperature. Shortly after leaving the hills we came again onto sandhills. About midday my hopes were high, as I cut the fresh tracksof two black-fellows. 

Warri, after a short examination, said, "Yesterday track water that way, "pointing in the direction in which they were travelling; not that he couldpossibly tell which way the water lay, and for all we knew they might havejust left it. However, we decided that better success would probablyattend us if we followed them forward. Soon several equally fresh tracksjoined the first ones, and not one of us doubted but that our presentdiscomforts would shortly be over. 

"There must be water at the end of them, " was the general opinion, and soon we went gaily; Warri leading, and Charlie, who was an almost equallygood tracker, backing him up. After much twisting and turning, crossingand recrossing of our own tracks, the footprints at last took a definitedirection, and a pad, beaten by perhaps a dozen feet, led away North-Westfor two miles and never deviated. Any doubts as to Warri's correctinterpretation were now dispelled, and on we hurried, looking forward toat least water for ourselves, and perhaps a drink for the camels. At fullspeed through mulga scrub, over sand and stones, on which the tracks werehardly visible, we came suddenly to an open patch of rock on the side ofa low ridge, and there in the centre of the flat rock lay before us afair-sized rock-hole--dry as a bone!--and all our visions of luxury forour beasts and ourselves were ended. 

Not only were we baulked of our water, but nothing but dead scrubsurrounded the rock, affording no feed for the camels, who had thereforeto be tied down. Leaving the rest to dig out the hole on the chance ofgetting a drop, though it was evident that the natives had cleaned it outnearly to the bottom, Warri and I started off to follow the tracks yetfurther. Taking a handful of dried peaches to chew, which give a littlemoisture, for we were very dry, we walked until darkness overtook us. Thetracks (a man, two women, and a child) led us back towards the West;we could see their camps, one close to the namma-hole, another four milesaway, with crushed seed lying about, and a few roots pulled up. Warrisaid they were "tired fella" from the way they walked. All this madeus doubtful if they knew where the next water was. In any case we couldmake no further search that night, and made our best way back throughthe scrub, to the camp. 

Godfrey had unsuccessfully explored the neighbouring hills, while Breadenand Charlie cleaned out the rockhole with like result. A very hot, cloudynight did not make things any more pleasant; we were all a bit done, andpoor Charlie was seized with a violent and painful vomiting--a not unusualaccompaniment to want of food and water. It seemed useless to follow thetracks any more, since they led us in exactly the wrong direction; and aswe loaded the camels in the morning two turkeys (bustards) flew over usto the North-East. We would have given something to have their knowledge!We started, therefore, in this direction, and soon came on other tracks, which after some time we concluded were only those of natives who hadbeen hunting from the rock-hole before the water was finished. 

I called a halt, and, sitting on the sand, expounded my views as to thesituation. "We had determined on getting through this country--that wasthe main point. Turning back, even if wise, was not to be considered. Thetracks had fooled us once, and though doubtless by following them wewould eventually get some water, where would we be at the end of it? Nofurther forward. Therefore, since we had still a drop or two to go onwith, let us continue on our course. None of us have any idea where wateris, and by travelling North, East, South, or West, we stood an equallygood chance of getting it. We would therefore go on in our properdirection, and trust to God, Providence, Fate, or Chance, as each mightthink. I should feel more satisfied if I knew their opinions agreed withmine, for, whatever the outcome, the responsibility rested on me. "

Breaden answered quietly, "It's a matter of indifference to me; go whereyou think best. " Godfrey's reply was characteristic, "Don't care a d--n;if we are going to peg out we will, whichever way we turn. " Charlie wasinclined at first to question the wisdom of going on, but soon cheerfullyagreed to do as the rest. So on I went, much relieved in mind that I wasleading no one against his will. Possibly I could not--so far as I know, no occasion arose. 

The day was sweltering, the night worse; in any other country one couldwith safety have backed heavily the fall of a thunderstorm. We had to becontent, where we were, with about three drops of rain; and even this, in spite of tents, flys, and mackintosh-sheets spread for the purpose, wewere unable to collect! Towards dawn the thermometer went down to 40degrees F. This sudden change was greatly to our advantage, though the sunsoon after rising showed his power. The ridges were now running almostparallel to our course, about North-East, and gave us in consequencelittle trouble. Up to this point I had walked all day, partly because onecan steer better on foot and I wished to do all the steering, until wepicked up the point on Forrest's route, and so give my companionsconfidence; and partly because I looked upon it as the leader's duty toset an example. To-day I took my turn with the rest, each riding for anhour--a great relief. Sand is weary walking and spinifex unpleasant untilone's legs get callous to its spines. 

We had not gone far before our hopes were again raised, and again dashed, by coming on rocky ground and presently on another rockhole--quite dry!We began to think that there could be no water anywhere; this hole waswell protected and should hold water for months. Thinking did littlegood, nor served to decrease the horrid sticky feeling of lips and mouth. "Better luck next time, " we said, with rather forced cheerfulness, andonce more turned our faces to the North-East. 

CHAPTER V

WATER AT LAST

Presently a single track caught my eye, fresh apparently, andunmistakably that of a "buck. " We all crowded round to examine it, andas we stooped caught sight of the owner not a hundred yards ahead, engrossed in unearthing an iguana and entirely ignorant of our presence. Ahasty consultation; "Catch him, " said someone, Breaden I think, and offwe started--I first, and Godfrey near behind. He saw us now and fled, so, shouting to Breaden to stay with the camels, and to Charlie, who wasmounted, to cut him off in front, I put my best leg foremost. A hummock ofspinifex brought me down, and, exhausted from short rations, I lay, unable to run further. Not so Godfrey, who held on manfully for anotherfifty yards and grabbed the black-fellow as he turned to avoid Charlie onthe camel. The poor chap was shaking with fear, but, after relieving hisfeelings by making a violent though abortive attack on Godfrey, he sooncalmed down and examined us with interest. 

Whatever the buck thought of us, close observation could find nothingvery remarkable about him. A man of about 5 feet 8 inches, thin butmuscular, with very large feet and small hands, very black, very dirty, his only garment consisted of a band of string round his forehead, holding his hair back in a ragged, mop-like mass. On his chest, raisedsears; through his nose, a hole ready to hold a bone or stick--such wasthis child of the wilderness. By signs we made him understand our wants, and the strange procession started, the "buck" (the general term for amale aboriginal) leading the way at a pace too fast for us or our camels. Guarded on one side by Breaden, I on the other, we plied our new friendwith salt beef, both to cement our friendship, and promote thirst, inorder that for his own sake he should not play us false. For five hourswe held on our way, curiously enough almost on our proper course, havingoften to stop awhile to allow the caravan to overtake us. Buoyed up bythe certainty of water so long as we had the buck with us we pushed on, until just after sunset the country changed from sand to stony rises andwe felt sure a rock-hole was not far off. A little further, and, by theuncertain light, we could see a fair-sized hole with water in it. I ranahead, and was the first to realise that the native had deceived us; thehole was dry! and must have been so for months. 

No sooner did the buck see that I had found him out than he made a suddenbolt and attempt at escape--very neatly done, but not quick enough to passBreaden. This was indeed a disappointment! I had thought it probable thatour guide would lead us anywhere into the sand and try to escape, but Inever guessed that he would tantalise us as he had done. In any case, solong as he was with us, we must some time get water--and we had nointention of letting him escape. With a rope we secured him and watchedin turn all through the night. 

Never were jailers more vigilant, for that black-fellow meant our lives. He tried all means of escape, and never slept the whole night through. Hewould lie still with closed eyes for a time, and then make a suddenstruggle to wrench the rope away from his captor; then stealthily withhis foot he tried to push the rope into the fire; then he started rubbingit on the rock on which we lay; and last of all his teeth were broughtinto use. When my turn came to watch, I pretended to sleep, to see whathe would do, and so discovered all his tricks. I confess that I saw withdelight the evident feelings of thirst that before long overcame him--thesalt beef had done its duty; he had had no water of course, for we hadnone to give him, and I felt sure that he would be only too eager in themorning. Nor was I mistaken; long before daylight he showed signs ofdistress, and anxiety to go on, standing up and stretching out his long, thin arm--"Gabbi" (water), he said, pointing in three differentdirections, putting his head back and pointing with his chin, making anoise something between a grunt and a puff. To the East, to theNorth-East, and to the South-West from where we had come, he made itclear that water existed. Evidently we had not been far from his campwhen we caught him, and we could hardly blame him for leading us awayfrom his own supply, which he rightly judged we and our camels wouldexhaust. 

Standing by the dry rock-hole we could see for many miles, the country tothe North-East being considerably lower than where we were; not acheerful view--sand-ridges always! Not a hill or range to be seen, andyet people have doubted if this really is a desert!

It may happen that in days to come some other party may be stranded inthis region and therefore I will leave out no description that couldassist them in finding the water that King Billy (for so had we named thebuck) eventually took us to. The dry rock-hole (Mulundella) is situatedon a surface outcrop of desert sandstone, about fifty yards acrosssurrounded by thick mulga scrub, enclosed between two sand-ridges runningNorth-East and South-West. 

On the North and East side of the outcrop the ground suddenly drops, forming what appears from the distance as a line of sheer cliffs. Downthis steep slope, which is covered with scrub, we discovered a passage, and, at the foot, found ourselves in an open spinifex plain with asand-ridge on either hand. We were steering N. E. By N. , and in consequencehad now and again to cross a ridge, since they ran due North-East. Afterthree miles low outcrops of limestone appeared at intervals, the scrub inthe trough of the ridges became more open with an undergrowth of coarsegrass, buck-bush or "Roly-Poly" (SALSOLA KALI) and low acacia. Huggingthe ridge on our left, we followed along this belt for another one and ahalf miles; when, close to the foot of a sandhill, our guide, secured tomy belt by a rope round his waist, stopped and excitedly pointed out whatseemed on first sight to be three rock-holes, in a small, bare patch oflimestone not more than thirty feet across. Twenty yards to the right orleft and we would never have seen it; and to this spot King Billy hadbrought us full speed, only stopping once to examine some rocks at thefoot of one ridge, as if to make sure that we were in the right valley. On further investigation the three holes turned out to be entrances, ofwhich two were large enough for a man to pass through, leadingperpendicularly to a cave beneath. With the help of a rope Charlie and Idescended twenty-five feet to the floor of the chamber, which we found tobe covered with sand to a depth of two feet. In the sand we dug holes butdid not succeed in getting even moisture. Plunged as we were so suddenlyinto darkness, our eyes could distinguish no passage leading from thechamber, and it seemed as if we had been tricked again. Furtherexploration by the light of candles revealed two passages, one leadingwest and upwards, the other east and downwards. Charlie chose the latter;before long I came to the end of mine, having failed to find anything butbats, bones of birds and dingoes, and old native camp-fires. FollowingCharlie, I found him crawling on hands and knees down a steepslope--progress was slow, as the floor was rough and the ceiling jagged;presently the passage dropped again, and at the end, below us, we couldsee our candles reflected, and knew that at last we had water! Who, except those who have had similar experiences, can picture one's feelingsof relief! "Thank God! thank God!" is all one can reiterate in one'smind over and over again. The visible supply of water was small, and wehad grave doubts as to any soakage existing! Not wasting valuable time indiscussion, we crawled back with all speed to the cave, shouted up thejoyful news, and called for buckets and billies to bale with. The King wasnow allowed to descend, but not unguarded, as we must first ascertain thevalue of our supply. We could understand now why he had insisted oncarrying with him from our last camp a burning branch (a "fire-stick");for he proceeded to make a fire on the floor of the cave from some deadleaves and branches, and others along the passage, to light him; aftersome hesitation he took a candle instead, and bolted down the passage likea rat. He must have been very dry, judging from the time he stayed belowand from his distended appearance on re-ascending. He drank a great dealmore than any of us and yet had been a comparatively short time withoutwater, whilst we had been walking and working on starvation rations for agood number of days. 

Breaden and I set to work to unload the camels while the others startedpreparations for water-getting. By 3 p. M. We were ready. King Billy atthe bottom, baling water with a meat tin into a bucket, which he handedto Warri, who passed it to Charlie; thence VIA Godfrey it reachedBreaden, who on the floor of the cave hitched it on to a rope, and I fromabove hauled it through the entrance to the surface. Useful as he wasbelow, I soon had to call Warri up to keep off the poor famished camels, who, in their eagerness, nearly jostled me into the hole. First I filledour tanks, doubtful what supply the cave would yield; but when word waspassed that "She was good enough, and making as fast as we baled, " I nolonger hesitated to give the poor thirsty beasts as much as ever theycould drink. What a labour of love that was, and what satisfaction to seethem "visibly swelling" before my eyes! Till after sunset we labouredunceasingly, and I fancy none of us felt too strong. The thundery weatherstill continued; the heat was suffocating--so much so that I took off myhat and shirt, to the evident delight of the flies, whose onslaughtswould have driven me mad had I not been too busily engaged to noticethem. 

Before night all the camels were watered; they drank on an averageseventeen gallons apiece, and lay gorged upon the ground too tired or toofull of liquid to eat. We had a very different camp that night, and KingBilly shared our good spirits. Now that he had his liberty he showed nosigns of wishing to leave us, evidently enjoying our food and full ofpride in his newly acquired garment, a jersey, which added greatly to hisstriking appearance. He took great interest in all our belongings, butseemed to value highest the little round piece of metal that is fixed onthe inside of a meat-tin! This, hung on a string, made a handsomeornament for him. 

That night, in reviewing our affairs, I came to the conclusion that thisdry stage at the beginning of our journey had been a good thing for all. We had had a bad time, but had come out of it all right. Although thesethings always appear worse, when written or read, yet it is no light taskto trudge day after day over such horrible country with an empty stomachand dry throat, and with no idea of when the next water will be found, orif any will be found; and through it all to be cheerful and good-tempered, and work away as usual, as if all were right. It had inspired us withcomplete confidence in the staying powers of the camels, who, in spite ofa thirteen and a half days' drought, had shown no signs of giving in. It had afforded each of us an insight into the characters of hiscompanions that otherwise he never would have had. It had given meabsolute confidence in Breaden, Godfrey, and Charlie, and I trust hadimbued them with a similar faith in me. 

August 11th to 15th we rested at the cave, occupying ourselves in thenumerous odd jobs that are always to be found, happy in the knowledgethat we had an unfailing supply of water beneath us. I have little doubtbut that this water is permanent, and do not hesitate to call it aspring. I know well that previous travellers have called places "springs"which in after years have been found dry; but I feel sure that thissupply so far, nearly sixty feet, below the surface, must be derived froma permanent source, and even in the hottest season is too well protectedto be in any way decreased by evaporation. 

As a humble tribute to the world-wide rejoicings over the long reign ofour Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, I have honoured this hidden well ofwater by the name of "The Empress Spring. " A more appropriate name itcould not have, for is it not in the Great Victoria Desert? and was itnot in that region that another party was saved by the happy finding ofQueen Victoria Spring?

The "Empress Spring" would be a hard spot to find. What landmarks thereare I will now describe. My position for the Spring is lat. 26 degrees 47minutes 21 seconds S. , long. 124 degrees 25 minutes E. Its probablenative name (I say probable because one can never be sure of words takenfrom a wild aboriginal, who, though pointing out a water, may, instead ofrepeating its name, be perhaps describing its size or shape) is"Murcoolia Ayah Teenyah. " The entrance is in a low outcrop of magnesianlimestone, surrounded by buckbush, a few low quondongs and a low, broom-like shrub; beyond this, mulga scrub. Immediately to the North ofthe outcrop runs a high sand-ridge, covered sparsely with acacia andspinifex. On the top of the ridge are three conspicuously tall dead mulgatrees. From the ridge looking West, North, North-East, and East nothingis visible but parallel sand-ridges running N. E. To the South-West can beseen the high ground on which is the rock-hole (Mulundella). 

To the South-East, across a mulga-covered flat, is a high ridge one miledistant, with the crests of others visible beyond it; above them, abouttwelve miles distant, a prominent bluff (Breaden Bluff), the North end ofa red tableland. From the mulga trees the bluff bears 144 degrees. Oneand a half miles N. E. By N. From the cave is a valley of open spinifex, breaking through the ridges in a West and Southerly direction, on whichare clumps of cork-bark trees; these would incline one to think thatwater cannot be far below the surface in this spot. 

Close to the entrance to the cave is erected a mulga pole, on which wecarved our initials and the date. There are also some native signs orornaments in the form of three small pyramids of stones and grass, abouteight feet apart, in a line pointing S. W. 

Several old native camps were dotted about in the scrub; old fires andvery primitive shelters formed of a few branches. Amongst the ashes manybones could be seen, particularly the lower maxillary of some species ofrat-kangaroo. To descend to the cave beneath, the natives had made arough ladder by leaning mulga poles against the edge of the entrance fromthe floor. All down the passage to the water little heaps of ashes couldbe seen where their fires had been placed to light them in their work. Warri found some strange carved planks hidden away in the bushes, whichunfortunately we were unable to carry. King Billy saw them with evidentawe; he had become very useful, carrying wood and so forth with thegreatest pleasure. The morning we left this camp, however, he sneakedaway before any of us were up. I fancy that his impressions of a whiteman's character will be favourable; for never in his life before had hebeen able to gorge himself without having had the trouble of hunting hisfood. From him I made out the following words, which I consider reliable:

 ENGLISH. ABORIGINAL. Smoke, fire. Warru or wallu. Wood. Taalpa. Arm. Menia. Hand. Murra. Hair. Kuttya. Nose. Wula or Ula. Water. Gabbi. Dog. Pappa. *

[* This word "pappa" we found to be used by all natives encountered by usin the interior. Warri uses it, and Breaden tells me that in CentralAustralia it is universal. ]

August 15th we again watered the camels, who were none the worse fortheir dry stage. Breaden was suffering some pain from his strain, and ondescending to the cave was unable to climb up again; we had somedifficulty in hauling him through the small entrance. 

CHAPTER VI

WOODHOUSE LAGOON

But for the flies, which never ceased to annoy us, we had enjoyed a realgood rest, and were ready to march on the morning of the 16th, no changeoccurring in the character of the country until the evening of the 18th, when we sighted a low tableland five miles to the North, and to the Westof it a table-topped detached hill. Between us and the hills one or twonative smokes were rising, which showed us that water must be somewherein the neighbourhood. From a high sandhill the next morning, we got abetter view, and could see behind the table-top another and similar hill. I had no longer any doubt as to their being Mounts Worsnop and Allott(Forrest, 1874), the points for which I had been steering, though atfirst they appeared so insignificant that I hesitated to believe thatthese were the right ones. From the West, from which direction Forrestsaw them first, they appear much higher, and are visible some twentymiles off. From the North they are not visible a greater distance thanthree miles, while from the East one can see them a distance of eightmiles. 

I altered our course, therefore, towards the hills, and we shortlycrossed the narrow arm of a salt-lake; on the far side several tracks ofemus and natives caught my eye, and I sent Charlie on Satan to scout. Before long he reported a fine sheet of water just ahead. This, as may beimagined, came as a surprise to us; for a more unlikely thing to find, considering the dry state of the rock-holes we had come upon, could nothave been suggested. However, there it was; and very glad we were to seeit, and lost no time in making camp and hobbling the camels. What aglorious sight in this parched land!--so resting to the eye after days ofsand! How the camels wallowed in the fresh water! how they drank! andwhat a grand feed they had on the herbage (TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM) onthe banks of the lagoon! Charlie and I spent the afternoon in furtherexploring our surroundings, and on return to camp found our mates busilyengaged in plucking some teal and waterhen which they had shot. Thelatter were numerous, and Godfrey at one shot bagged nine. They arealmost identical in size and appearance with our British waterhen, thoughthey seem to have less power of flight, thus enabling us to drive themfrom one gun to the other, and so secure a fine lot for the pot. I doubtif in civilisation they would be considered good eating, but after tinnedhorrors they were a perfect delicacy. The teal were as numerous; butthough there were several emu tracks we saw none of those queer birds. Our bag for three days was seventeen teal, twelve waterhen, one pigeon. The natives whose smoke we had seen, disappeared shortly after ourarrival. Godfrey, whilst shooting, came across their camp; the occupants, a man, woman, and child, fled as soon as they caught sight of him, leaving a shield behind them, and did not appear again. This small oasisdeserves particular attention, for it is bound to play an important partin any scheme of a stock route from the cattle-stations of CentralAustralia to the Murchison or Coolgardie Goldfields. 

There are three lagoons (or deep clay-pans) connected by a shallow, sandychannel. They are entirely surrounded by sandhills, excepting at onespot, where a narrow creek breaks through the sand-ridge. Of the threethe largest and most South-Westerly one is nearly circular, and has adiameter of 600 yards with a depth varying from 1 ft. 6 in. To 4 ft. 6in. It is capable of holding considerably more water than we saw in it. The bottom is of rock, a sort of cement in which ironstone is visible inthe middle, and of clay near the edges. From the N. W. A narrow channelenters, traceable for a distance of two miles to a cane-grass swamp; intothis, small watercourses, and the tail end of a larger creek lead. 

Following up this flat, it will be found to develop into a definedchannel running through a grassy flat timbered with bloodwoods (a kind ofeucalyptus). This creek rises in the sandstone tablelands to the N. OfMount Allott, and in it at its head, is situated Alexander Spring(Forrest. 1874). 

Round the foot of these hills, extending to the lagoon, is a fine littleplain of grass, saltbush, and numerous low shrubs, all excellent feed forstock. Mounts Allott and Worsnop are certainly remarkable hills, perhaps200 feet above the surrounding country, quite flat on the top, which iscovered with scrub. From the latter the lagoon is visible, one miledistant on bearing 150 degrees. Our camp at the lagoon was in lat. 26degrees 10 minutes, long. 124 degrees 48 minutes. This reckoning placedAlexander Spring in a position agreeing very closely with that given itby Forrest, which was very gratifying to me. This water was marked byForrest as "permanent. " He says in his journal: "July 13th . . . Finewater at this place. I have no doubt water is always here. I named itAlexander Spring after my brother, who discovered it. Abundance of wateralso in rock-holes. " This was in 1874. Since that date this spot has beenrevisited, first and not long after Forrest, by W. W. Mills, who wascommissioned to bring over a mob of camels from South Australia. Hefollowed Forrest's track from water to water, at first with nodifficulty; depending on Alexander Spring, he made a longish dry stage, reached the spring only to find it dry, and had a bad time inconsequence. The second party to follow Forrest's route was that ofCarr-Boyd in 1896, whom Breaden accompanied, and who was prospecting foran Adelaide syndicate. They passed by this spot, but having plenty ofwater, as it was raining at the time, did not visit the spring. FromMount Worsnop, Woodhouse, one of the party, sighted the lagoon; butneither he nor any of the party had troubled to see whether it wassalt or fresh, or of what extent it was. I have named it afterWoodhouse, who first saw it. Breaden had told me of the fact of hishaving seen it, but I had supposed that, as rain was falling, Woodhousewas only looking on a shallow pool that could by no possibility holdwater for long. 

Shortly after Carr-Boyd, there followed Hubbe's party. He was sent out bythe South Australian Government to follow Forrest's route, to ascertainits suitability or otherwise for a stock route. Hubbe found the springdry, or practically so, and was much disappointed. He did not happen tofind the lagoon, and had a long stage before he found water. His partyarrived at Menzies shortly before we started. I was unable to get anyinformation from him beyond the opinion that the country was worthlessand a stock route impracticable. I put more faith, however, in Breaden, whose life has been spent amongst stock and travelling cattle. When withCarr-Boyd he came to the conclusion that as far as the Warburton Rangecattle could be taken without much trouble; and indeed in 1873, so I haveread, Gosse drove some bullocks as far as that point, which was thefurthest west he penetrated when attempting to cross the Colony. 

From the Warburton Range to Lake Wells the awkward part came in, but nowthis lagoon and the Empress Spring go far to bridge it over. I have nodoubt that a fortnight's work at both these places would be sufficient tomake splendid wells, supposing that the lagoon was found dry and thespring too hard to get at. At the expenditure of no great amount I feelconfident that a serviceable stock route could be formed, easilynegotiated in the winter months and kept open by wells during the rest ofthe year. The country through which the route would pass is excellent asfar as the border. From there it would be necessary to hit off the smalloases which are met with near Mount Squires, Warburton Ranges, BlythCreek, and Alexander Spring. From this point the route could be taken toEmpress Spring, thence to Lake Wells (or direct to Lake Wells) and theBonython Creek, and from there to Lake Darlot there would be nodifficulty. The only really bad bit of the route would be betweenWoodhouse Lagoon and Lake Wells, and this is no great distance. Whetherthe scheme would be worth the expenditure necessary to equip a reallyserviceable well-sinking party I am unable to judge; but it seems to methat it would be a tremendous advantage to Central Australian cattleowners to be able to drive their bullocks direct to the West Australiangoldfields, even though they could only do so in the winter, at whichseason alone it is probable that the feed would be sufficiently good. Thefact that Forrest with his horses traversed this route is evidence enoughthat at some seasons certain surface waters exist at no great distancesapart--in some cases large supplies. For cattle to follow the route thatwe had come so far would be manifestly absurd, and these remarks, especially where the country between Woodhouse Lagoon and Lake Wells, andbetween that lake and Lake Darlot is discussed, are made with the furtherknowledge of these regions that our return journey gave us. 

It seems a remarkable fact that while a spring should be found dry, notfive miles from it a fresh-water lagoon with millions of gallons in itshould exist. In the first place Alexander Spring is no spring; Sir JohnForrest told me himself that at the time of naming it he was verydoubtful. Hubbe dug it out to bedrock and proved it to be merely a localsoakage in the gravelly bed of a narrow gully. Now a heavy downpoursufficient to run the creek and fill the lagoon must certainly first fillthe spring and neighbouring pools. But the water in the spring would soonevaporate, whilst the depth and area of the lagoon would save itscontents from diminishing from this cause, for a much longer period. Sothat after all it is easily understandable that we should find the lagoonfull and the so-called spring dry. 

Near the foot of Mount Allott we found Hubbe's camp, and in it severalstraps and hobble-chains; two tin-lined packing cases had been leftbehind, and from them we took the lids, not quite knowing to what use wecould put them, but yet feeling they might be serviceable; and indeedthey were. 

On the summit of the hill Forrest had raised a cairn of stones; this hadbeen pulled down by the natives and subsequently replaced by Hubbe. Theblacks had again started to take it to pieces; I rebuilt what they hadremoved and placed on the cairn a board on which I wrote directions tothe lagoon, in case any other traveller should pass. 

By the side of the little creek to the North-West of the hill a bloodwoodtree has been marked on one side with the number of Mills's camp, and onthe other with a record of the objects of Hubbe's expedition, S. R. Standing presumably for "Stock Route. "

The flat on which these trees are growing is, in my opinion, a verylikely spot for finding water by sinking. 

CHAPTER VII

THE GREAT UNDULATING DESERT OF GRAVEL

On August 22nd we left this kindly little oasis and directed our courseto the North. We were now nearly in the centre of the Colony, and hadmade enough easting, a general northerly course being necessary to takeus through the heart of the great unknown. It was my intention to steerdue North for as long a period as possible, only deviating from it whenforced by the exigencies of water-hunting, and when it became necessary, to bear somewhat to the eastward so as to hit off the vicinity of Hall'sCreek. Unless absolutely forced to do so, I did not propose to make anydeviation to the Westward--for from our small caravan it was incumbentupon us to waste no time, unless we could do so in country where game wasprocurable. So far, although our actual line of march had been throughunmapped country, we had traversed a region already crossed by anotherparty, whose route ran parallel to ours and some forty miles to thenorth. Not that that was of the least benefit to us any more than if wehad been at sea; but it gave us the feeling that we were not in anabsolutely TERRA INCOGNITA. From the lagoon, however, our route laythrough country untrodden by any white man, with the exception of ErnestGiles, whose track we should cross at right angles, about one hundredmiles North of Alexander Spring. But unless we sighted the Alfred andMarie Range, named by him, we should have no guide, excepting ourposition on the chart, to show us where we crossed the path of a caravanwhich marched through the wilderness twenty years before. 

To give a description of the country that we now encountered, from day today, would be so deadly monotonous that the kindest reader would hardlyforgive me; and even if it could serve any useful purpose I shouldhesitate to recount the daily scene of solitude. A general account ofthis country, followed by any incidents or personal adventures worthy ofnotice, will suffice to give an idea of this dreary region. 

From lat. 26 degrees S. To lat. 22 degrees 40 minutes there stretches avast desert of rolling sand, not formed in ridges like those alreadydescribed, nor heaped up with the regularity of those met with furthernorth. "Downs" I think is the only term that describes properly theconfiguration of the country. "The Great Undulating Desert of Gravel"would meet all requirements should it be thought worthy of a name. Inthis cheerless and waterless region we marched from August 22nd untilSeptember 17th seeing no lakes, nor creeks, nor mountains; no hills evenprominent enough to deserve a name, excepting on three occasions. Dayafter day over open, treeless expanses covered only by the never-endingspinifex and strewn everywhere with pebbles and stones of ferruginoussandstone, as if some mighty giant had sown the ground with seed in thehope of raising a rich crop of hills. The spinifex here cannot grow itscoarse, tall blades of grass--the top growth is absent and only roundstools of spines remain; well was it named Porcupine Grass!

Occasional clumps of mulga break the even line of the horizon, and, inthe valleys, thickets or belts of bloodwood are seen. In these hollows onemay hope to find feed for the camels, for here may grow a few quondongs, acacia, and fern-tree shrubs, and in rare cases some herbage. The beefwoodtree, the leaves of which camels, when hard pressed, will eat, alonecommands the summit of the undulations. As for animal life--well, oneforgets that life exists, until occasionally reminded of the fact by abounding spinifex rat, frightened from his nest. Day after day one orother of us used to walk away from the caravan carrying a gun on thechance of getting a shot; never once did we succeed; the rats invariablygot up out of range, and after a time we voted it unnecessary labour. Hadthey been easily shot their small numbers would hardly have made it worthwhile to burden one's self with a gun; to see a dozen in a day wascounted out of the common. Birds were nowhere numerous--an occasionaleagle-hawk, or crow, and once or twice a little flock of long-tailedparrots whose species was unknown to any of us. Unfortunately I wasunable to procure a specimen. At any waters pigeons, sparrows, crows, and hawks might be seen in fair quantities; and very rarely a turkey. 

From the 22nd to the 24th we saw no signs of natives. On the latter dayseveral smokes rose during the march. So far, we had no certain knowledgeof the meaning of these smokes. They might be native signals, or fromfires for the purpose of burning off the old spinifex to allow young feedto grow and so attract the rats to a known locality; or it might be thatthe blacks were burning the country to hunt out the rats and lizards. Onthe 25th a sudden change took place, and we found ourselves in a small, open thicket with a coarse undergrowth of grass, and scattered about werea few boulders of decomposed granite and occasional low outcrops of rock. Several old native camps put us on the alert, and presently we found awell--a shallow hole, 7 feet deep, and 2 feet 6 inches in diameter, entirely surrounded by high spinifex. Why there should ever be waterthere, or how the blacks got to know of it, was a problem we could onlyguess at. Everything looked so dry and parched that we were in no waysurprised at finding the well waterless. Prempeh had been very unwelllately, refusing to take what little feed there was to be got. A dose ofsulphur and butter was administered, poured warm down his throat by me asBreaden held open his month, grasped firmly by either lip. I believesulphur is an excellent thing for camels, and used often to treat themto the mixture, some--Satan, for example--being very partial to it. Theposition of this well I found to be lat. 25 degrees 15 minutes, long. 124 degrees 48 minutes; from the edge of the mulga, one hundred yards orso to the North of it, a range of rough looking hills is visible. This Inamed the Browne Range, after my old friends at Bayley's Reward, and thetwo conspicuous points I christened Mount Gordon, after Mr. Gordon Lyon, and Mount Everard, after Mr. Everard Browne, respectively. 

Mount Gordon is flat-topped; and Mount Everard a double hill, a peakrising from a flat top, bears 82 degrees from the well. This range stoodout boldly from the open country and promised well for hilly countryahead. Nor were we disappointed, for after two hours' travel we sightedan imposing-looking range, and altered our course to the highest point, aqueer dome-shaped peak, which we called Charlie's Knob, since he hadfirst seen the hills. On nearer approach the hills lost much of theirgrandeur. By camping-time we were close to their foot amongst rockyrises, very rough to the feet of our animals. They were rewarded fortheir discomforts by a small patch of herbage which they quicklydemolished. That night we heard the dismal howling of two dingoes, whomight either be giving expression to their satisfaction at finding wateror to their disappointment at not having done so. Three miles more ofrugged ground the next morning brought us to Charlie's Knob, and beyondit the range, which on close examination was not imposing, being a seriesof detached sandstone hills, their summits flat and slightly sloping tothe South, capped with a hard reddish-brown rock (baked shale). On thecap, loose fragments of shale and thick scrub; forming its sides sheercliffs, at most fifteen feet high, perforated by holes and caves, aboverough, stony banks. The whole covered with tufts of spinifex, barren, wretched, and uninviting. 

On Charlie's Knob a queer little natural pinnacle of rock stands half-wayup the side, and from a hill close by, an excellent view of the BrowneRange was obtained, Mount Gordon bearing 148 degrees. With the help of myfield-glasses I could make out the character of this range to be similarto that of the Young Range on which I was standing. It is of coursenecessary to name these hills for future reference, and this range gotits name from somebody's remark that it was hardly full grown. From theknob the hills run in a crescent, a line joining the two horns beingNorth-East. In the bend of the crescent I could see some verygreen-looking bloodwoods and made sure we should find a creek. First wehunted the neighbouring hills without success, and then crossed on to thebloodwood flat which had appeared like a creek. Here for the only timeour patience in carrying the gun was rewarded, and Charlie shot two fineturkeys. This welcome occurrence, added to Godfrey's having seen akangaroo in the hills and the dingoes heard the night before, made usconfident that water was not far off. That night Godfrey and I took it inturns to baste the turkeys, as they were baking between two prospectingdishes. Godfrey was an excellent cook, and most particular thateverything should be done cleanly and properly. I was quite under hisorders in the kitchen, for the cook's art is one that I have not thepatience to learn, and cordially hate. 

Cold turkey and tea for breakfast, and then I divided the party into two, Breaden with the camels being directed to a prominent hill at the end ofthe range there to await the arrival of Godfrey and myself, who went offto the hills to make further search for water. All day we hunted indifferent directions and everywhere found the same barren rocks. We hadfixed upon a certain gully as a rendezvous; each gully was exactly likeits neighbour. Towards the evening I returned to the gully, which I wassure was the one agreed upon, and there awaited Godfrey. He did the same, only chose another gully, equally sure that he was right. And there wesat, each impatiently blaming the other. At last, to pass the time, Ifired some shots at an ant-hill; these had the effect of bringingGodfrey over the rise, and we had a good laugh at each other when wediscovered that for nearly half an hour we had sat not two hundred yardsapart--and each remained firmly convinced that he was right! Godfrey hadshot a kangaroo and carried part of the meat and the tail; he had trackedit a long way, but could see no signs of water. 

Still following the hills, we made our way towards the point where thecamels should be, and presently cut a deep, rocky gorge, which wefollowed down. The camels had crossed this; and, as it was getting late, I sent Godfrey along their tracks to rejoin the others, telling him thatI should continue down the creek, and return to wherever they made camp;to guide me to it they were to light a fire. I followed the creek, orstorm channel as I should rather call it, for some four miles; climbing atree I could see it apparently continuing for some miles, so, feelingthat I had already had a fair tramp, I noted the direction of the smokefrom the camp and returned to it. As luck would have it, it was the wrongsmoke; Breaden on arriving at the end hill had made a fire, and this theevening breeze had rekindled; and the camp-fire happened to die down atthe very time it was most needed. In due course I arrived at the hill, named Mount Colin, after poor Colin Gibson, a Coolgardie friend who hadlately died from typhoid. From the summit a noticeable flat-topped hill, Mount Cox, named after Ernest Cox, also of Coolgardie, bears 76 degreesabout fifteen miles distant, at the end of a fair-sized range runningS. S. W. Between this range and that from which I was observing, I noticedseveral belts of bloodwoods, which might be creeks, but probably are onlyflats similar to that crossed by us. Picking up the tracks of the mainparty, I followed them to camp, not sorry to have a rest; for it was tenhours since Godfrey and I had had anything to eat or drink, and the rockswere rough and the spinifex dense. I mention this, not as illustrating ourhardships, but to show what training will do; any one of us would havebeen quite ready to do the day's tramp over again had any necessityarisen. 

That night as I was shooting the stars, by which I found we were in lat. 24 degrees 57 minutes, long. 125 degrees 9 minutes (dead reckoning), Inoticed several bronzewing pigeons flying down the creek which I hadfollowed, and on which we were camped. In the morning others observedthem flying up the watercourse. As a bronzewing drinks just after dark, or just before daylight, this was pretty good evidence that water existedin the direction in which the creek ran--and probably an open pool wouldbe found. No such luck! for we followed the channel until it no longerwas one, that is to say its banks became further apart, and lower, untilits wash was spread out in all directions over a flat whose limits weredefined by bloodwoods and grass. Here we found an old blacks' camp andspent some time examining its neighbourhood. Little heaps of the yellowseed of a low plant, swept together on clear spaces on the ground, andthe non-existence of any well, led us to suppose that this was merely atravelling camp of some buck who had been sent to collect seed. It wasrather aggravating to be morally certain that water existed and yet beunable to find it; we still had hopes of the creek making again, and sofollowed the direction of its previous course. 

Before long the tracks of a buck and a gin crossed our path, and we atonce turned to follow them through all their deviations. We saw where thewoman had dug out bardies from the roots of a wattle, where the buck hadunearthed a rat, * and where together they had chased a lizard. Finally wereached their camp. Several implements lay about, including two barkcoolimans. These, the simplest form of cooliman, are made by peeling thebark off the projecting lumps so common on the stems of bloodwoods. Thebark so obtained forms a little trough. In some regions they are gougedout of a solid piece of wood, but this requires a knowledge of carpentry, and probably tools, not possessed by the desert black. Another kind moresimple than the first mentioned, is made by bending the two sides of astrip of bark together, so as to form the half of a pipe; then, bystuffing up the two ends with clay and grass, a serviceable little troughis made. In those we saw the clay was moist, and we knew that this was nomere travelling camp. However, search as we would we could find no water, until a flock of diamond-sparrows rose in front of Warri, and hediscovered a little well hidden in the spinifex--so perfectly hidden thatour own tracks had passed half an hour before its discovery within a fewpaces of it!

[* The rat mentioned here was probably a "Bandicoot, " "Boody, " or "Bilby, "the scientific name of which I do not know; I have never seen one, onlytheir burrows, and these have always shown every appearance of beingunoccupied. Most of the burrows that I have seen have been in a lowmound, perhaps 30 feet across, of white powdery soil, like gypsum. Theonly living things I have seen emerge being a cat (near Lake Prinsep) andsnakes or lizards. 

There is a smaller rat, which the natives in the goldfields districts getin rather an ingenious way. This rat makes a single burrow, with a nestat the end of it close beneath the surface. When it is inside the hole itfills in the entrance and retires to its nest. This is ventilated by alittle hole to the surface, the mouth of this hole being hidden withsmall stones and sticks. The rat, however, with all his cunning has onlybuilt a mark by which his home may be discovered by the native. I hadoften noticed these little heaps of stones in the scrub, and until a tameboy explained it had no notion of their meaning. ]

What chance has one of finding water, except by the most diligent searchand by making use of every sign and indication written on the surface ofthe ground? This well was similar to the one already described, excepting in one important respect. This one had water. Turning thecamels out we started work, and by sundown had the well in order. Tyingthe others down we proceeded to water each camel in turn. Picture oursurprise and joy when each turned from the bucket without drinking morethan two gallons. Billy rolled up like a great balloon, and one wouldhave sworn that he had just had a long drink. What was this miracle? Herewere camels, after an eight days' drought, travelling eight to ten hoursdaily in hot weather, over rough stones and gravel, actually turning awayfrom water!

The answer to this riddle was "Parakeelia. " This is a local, presumablynative, name in Central Australia for a most wonderful and useful plant. A specimen brought back by me from this locality was identified at Kew asCALANDRINIA BALONENSIS. This plant grows close to the ground in littlebunches; in place of leaves it has long, fleshy projections, likefingers, of a yellowish-green colour. From the centre grows a prettylittle lilac flower at the end of a single thin stalk. The fingers arefull of watery juice and by no means unpalatable. We tried them raw, andalso fried in butter, when they were quite good eating. The plant isgreedily devoured by stock of all kinds, and in dry tracts in CentralAustralia has been the means of saving many head of cattle. As we foundit, it was not easily got hold of, for invariably it grew right in thecentre of a hummock of spinifex. At first the camels, not knowing itsproperties, would not risk pricking themselves, but after we had shownthem, by clearing away the spinifex, how nice it was, they did nothesitate to plunge their soft noses into the spiny mass, with what goodeffect I have already described. Indeed, this plant is a wonderfulprovision of nature, and compensates a little for the hideous sterilityof the country. I am not wide of the mark when I say that given"parakeelia" every second night or so a camel would never want to drinkat all, though it is not really as serviceable as water--not having thesame lasting effect. A similar plant, also found in Central Australia, is"Munyeru. " In the centre of this a little bag of black seeds grows;these seeds are crushed and eaten by the natives. Munyeru, Breaden tellsme, is quite a good vegetable for human consumption. Why the locality ofthis well, "Warri Well, " should be specially favoured by the growth ofparakeelia I cannot guess. 

The well itself was sufficiently remarkable. Our work took us some twelvefeet from the surface, and in the well we had nearly five feet of waterand the probability of a deal more, as we had not reached "bottom. " Thequestion that presented itself to my mind was whether the natives hadsunk the well on a likely looking spot and been fortunate in finding asupply, or whether, from tradition, they knew that this well, possiblyonly a rock-hole covered by surface soil, existed. The depression inwhich the well is situated must after rain receive the drainage, not onlyfrom the channel we followed, but from the stony rise to the north of it. After a heavy storm--and from the way in which this creek has been tornthrough the sand, scouring a channel down to bedrock, it is clear thatoccasionally violent storms visit this region--a large volume of waterwould collect in this depression. Some of it would be sucked up by thetrees and shrubs, some would evaporate, but the greater part would soakinto the ground where, so long as the bed-rock (which in this particularcase is a hard sandstone and iron conglomerate) is impervious, it wouldremain. I should think it likely, therefore, that on this and similarflats, not far from hills or tablelands, water by sinking could beobtained at no great depth. A good guide to this well is a bare patch ofrock on Mount Colin, which bears 138 degrees three miles distant. 

This hill is visible from ten miles due North of the well, from whichpoint it shows up prominently. Continuing a northerly march from thatpoint we found that the gravel and stones for the next few miles becamemuch rougher, and made walking tiring work. Occasionally mulga thicketsfree from stones had to be passed through; in these there often occurredvery shallow depressions overgrown with grass and floored with clay. Fromthe floors rose high, pinnacled ant-heaps, built by the white ant; thesehills, grouped into little colonies, sometimes attained a height ofeleven feet, and had in the distance a weird appearance, reminding me inshape, at least, of the picture of Lot's wife turned into a pillar ofsalt. Around these clay flats large white gum-trees were growing, adifferent species from the desert gum, having a quite smooth bark. 

On September 1st we sighted the Alfred and Marie Range due East of us. Ihad expected to find this almost on our course; however, my reckoningdiffers from Giles's by eight miles, my position for the range being tothe East of his. As we approached the range the country improved greatly, and had every appearance of having experienced recent rains, for greenherbage [HALORAGIS, and TRICHINIUM ALOPECUROIDEUM. ] was in placesabundant--that is to say, little patches of it, perhaps twenty pacesacross. These we saw were feeding-grounds for kangaroos and wallabies. Turkey tracks were fairly numerous; of the latter we saw six, and shotone. They are very wary birds and not easily stalked. A very good planfor shooting them is for one man to hide in a bush or behind a treewhilst the other circles round a good way off, and very slowly advances, and so drives the turkey past the hidden sportsman. He, if he is wise, will let the turkey rise before firing, as their wings are easily broken, whilst the thick breast-feathers readily turn shot. 

We made camp one mile from the foot of the hills, and Charlie and Iwalked over to see what was to be seen. This range is of sandstone, andmade up of a series of flat-topped hills of peculiar shapes, standing onthe usual rough, stony slopes. The hills are traceable in a broken linefor a considerable distance, perhaps twenty miles, in a North-Easterlydirection. No doubt some good water-hole exists amongst these hills, judging from the tracks of kangaroos, turkeys, and dingoes. I fancy thatanimals and birds follow up rain-storms from place to place to takeadvantage of the good feed which springs into life, and it is mostprobable that for ten months in the year these hills are undisturbed byanimal or bird life. Certainly Giles found that to be the case when hecrossed them in 1876; so disgusted was he with their appearance that hedid not trouble to investigate them at all. Indeed, he could have noother than sad remembrances of this range, for he first sighted it fromthe East, when attempting to cross the interior from East to West--anattempt that failed, owing to the impossibility of traversing this desertof rolling sand and gravel with horses only as a means of transport. Baffled, he was forced to return, leaving behind him, lost for ever, his companion Gibson. After him this desert is named, and how he lost hislife is related in Giles's journals. 

In 1874 Giles, Tietkens, Gibson, and Andrews, with twenty-four horses, left the overland Central Australian telegraph line, to push out to theWest as far as possible. Keeping to the South of the already discoveredLake Amadeus, they found the Rawlinson and neighbouring ranges justwithin the Colony of West Australia. Water was plentiful, and a depot campwas formed, Giles and Gibson making a flying trip ahead to the westward. The furthest point was reached on April 23, 1874, from which the Alfredand Marie was visible some twenty-five miles distant. At this pointGibson's horse "knocked up, " and shortly afterwards died. Giles thereupongave up his own horse, the Fair Maid of Perth, and sent his companionback to the depot for relief; for it was clear that only one could ridethe horse, and he who did so, by hurrying on, could return and save hiscompanion. With a wave of his hat, he shouted goodbye to his generousleader and rode off. "This was the last ever seen of Gibson. " It appearsthat the poor fellow failed to follow back the outgoing tracks, got lostin the night, became hopelessly "bushed, " and perished, alone in thedesert. Giles meanwhile struggled on and on, every hour expecting relief, which of course never came. At last he staggered into camp, nearly dead. 

No time was lost in saddling fresh horses, and Tietkens and his exhaustedcompanion set out in search of the missing man. Picking up the FairMaid's tracks, they followed them until they were four days out fromcamp, and it became clear that to go further meant sacrificing not onlytheir own lives but that of their mate left behind at the depot, as wellas that of all the horses. Gibson's tracks when last seen were leading ina direction exactly opposite to that of the camp. Luckily the coldweather (April) stood their horses in good stead; but in spite of thisand of the water they packed for them, the horses only managed to crawlinto camp. It was manifestly impossible to make further search, forseventy miles of desert intervened between the depot-camp and the trackswhen last seen; and the mare was evidently still untired. So, sorrowfullythey retraced their steps to the East, and the place of Gibson's deathremains a secret still. I have heard that months after Giles's return, Gibson's mare came back to her home, thin and miserable, and showing onher belly and back the marks of a saddle and girth, which as she wastedaway had become slack and so turned over. Her tracks were followed backfor some distance without result. Poor thing! she had a long journey, andGiles must have spoken truly when he said, "The Fair Maid was the gamesthorse I ever rode. "

Giles's account of this desert shows that the last twenty years havedone little to improve it! He says "The flies were still about us inpersecuting myriads; . . . The country was, quite open, rolling along inceaseless undulations of sand, the only vegetation besides theever-abounding spinifex was a few bloodwood trees. The region is sodesolate that it is horrifying even to describe. The eye of God lookingdown on the solitary caravan as it presents the only living object aroundmust have contemplated its appearance with pitying admiration, as itforced its way continually onwards without pausing over this vast sandyregion, avoiding death only by motion and distance, until some oasis canbe found. "

Not a cheerful description certainly! Every day's Northing, however, would take us further in or out of this region, as the case might be, andfervently we hoped for the latter. Whatever country was before us we werefirmly determined to push on, and by the grace of God to overcome itsdifficulties. Again referring to Giles's journal I find that during thispart of his journey--viz. , near the range where we were now camped--thechange of temperature during night and day was very excessive. At nightthe thermometer registered 18 degrees F. , whilst the heat in the daytimewas most oppressive. This, in a less degree, was our experience, for themonth being September the days were hotter and the nights less cold. Nodoubt this extreme change in temperature, combined with the dryatmosphere and the tremendous heat of the sun, has caused the hills to beweathered away in the remarkable shapes of which McPherson's Pillar is agood example. The pillar is formed of a huge square block of red rock, planted on the top of a conical mound, perhaps fifty feet in height, whose slopes are covered with broken slabs and boulders. This remarkablelandmark, which, from the North, is visible from twenty-four milesdistant, I named after Mr. McPherson, a well-known and respectedprospector, who, though leaving no record of his journey, crossed theColony from West to East, visiting the hills and waters on Forrest'sroute as far East as the Parker Ranges, and thence striking Giles's routeat the Alfred and Marie, and so VIA the Rawlinson into Alice Springs, onthe overland telegraph line. Though little of his journey was through newcountry, yet it had the valuable result of proving the non-existence ofauriferous country in the belt traversed. 

Due West of the Pillar, distant two and a half miles, situated in ascrub-covered rocky gorge, is a fair-sized rockhole. Breaden and Godfreymanaged to get about two gallons of filth from it; I have swallowed allkinds of water, but this was really too powerful. Had we been hardpressed it would undoubtedly have been used, but since we had not longleft water, we discarded this mixture, after trying it on Czar, whoseindignation was great. In the branches of the mulga round the rock-hole Inoticed what I have seen in several other places, viz. , stones wedged inthe forks--dozens of stones of all sizes and shapes. I have no knowledgeof their true significance. It may be, and this is merely a guess, thatthey indicate the presence of poison in the rock-hole; for by means of acertain plant which is bruised and thrown into the hole, the water isgiven a not actually poisonous but stupefying property. Thus birds orbeasts coming to drink fall senseless and an easy prey to the ambushednative. This is a common plan in many parts of Australia, and wasdescribed to me by a tame boy from the Murchison. Here, too, were morelittle pyramids, similar to those at Empress Spring. Some quaintblack-fellows' custom, but what it signifies even Warri cannot explain. Breaden has a theory that they point to the next water-hole. This may be, but, unless for a stranger's benefit, quite unnecessary, as every blackknows his waters; and if for a stranger it is equally peculiar, for hiswelcome is usually a bang on the head! It may be that messengers or thosewho, wishing to trade from tribe to tribe, get the free passage of thedistrict, are thus guided on their way. The number of pyramids mayrepresent so many days' march. 

There must have been some open water besides this dirty rock-hole, buthaving sufficient for present requirements we did not waste time infurther search, and on September 2nd turned again to the North. On thiscourse we continued until September 6th, the country showing no changewhatever, which constrained me to say of it, so I find in my diary, "Surely the most God-forsaken on the face of the earth"; and yet we hadworse to follow!

Our rate of travel over the gravel was a small fraction more than twomiles per hour. This I carefully reckoned by timing, taking into accountevery halt of ever so small a duration in our march in a due North linebetween two latitudes. 

In lat. 23 degrees 34 minutes, long. 125 degrees 16 minutes, there rosebefore us, visible for several miles, high banks of stones, such as onesees on either side of the old bed of a river which has altered itscourse. The slopes were covered with spinifex and on the top red andweeping mulga--the latter a graceful little tree, whose bowed head addslittle to the gaiety of one's surroundings. I cannot offer anyexplanation of these curious banks, except that, from the appearance ofone or two large flat boulders on the summit, it may be that they wereformed by the entire disintegration of a sandstone cliff, to which decayhas come sooner than to its neighbours further South. Future experienceshowed us that further North the gravel becomes small and smaller untilit disappears, the rolling sandhills giving place to regular ridges. Ifthis is the case viz. , that the hills and ranges are gradually rottingaway until they disappear, leaving only gravel behind, which, in itsturn, decays and decays until only sand remains, then in the course ofages the whole of this region will be covered with ridge upon ridge ofsand formed by the wind, whose powers so far have been checked by theweight of the gravel. For the sake of future generations I hope myreasoning is incorrect. 

As I stood on the stony bank, I could see several native smokes to theeastward. Determined to take advantage of any help extended to us byNature, to spare no pains in the all-important matter of finding water, to let nothing pass that might assist us on our way, so that if it wasour fate to go under in the struggle I should not be assailed by thethought that I had neglected opportunities, determined, in fact, alwaysto act for the best, so far as I could see it, I decided to make use ofthis sign of the presence of natives, and altered our course inconsequence. We started due East and held on that course for eight miles, Godfrey and Charlie lighting the spinifex at intervals. Some men have atheory that the blacks signal by smokes, the appearance of which theyvary by using different grasses, branches, or leaves. That may be thecase in some parts; here, anyway, they are no more than hunting-fires, aswe later proved. If the desert blacks do go in for smoke-telegraphy theymust on this occasion have thought that the operator at our end of thewire was mad! Perhaps unknowingly we sent up smokes which appeared tothem to be rational messages! If such was the case our signals could nothave meant "Please stay at home, " for when eventually we did find theircamp they had left. Taking the bearing of the most northerly smoke wetravelled for the rest of the day in its direction. The next morning, though the smoke had long since died down, we continued on our course andin a few miles reached a large area of still smouldering spinifex. Aroundthis we searched for fresh tracks, and, having discovered some, madecamp. And now I have to chronicle the only occasion on which any onedisputed my orders. And this goes far to show that all I have said inpraise of the loyalty and untiring energy of my companions, is not meantin empty compliment, but falls short of what they merit. 

It was necessary for one to stay in camp and watch our belongings and thecamels, while the rest were engaged in tracking the natives. Our zeal wasso great that the camels were hardly, unloaded and hobbled before eachone had set out, and it followed that one must be sent back. For noparticular reason I fixed on Godfrey, who, instead of hailing with joythe prospective rest, was most mutinous! The mutiny, however, wasshort-lived, and ended in laughter when I pointed out how ridiculous hisobjection was. 

Charlie and I went in one direction, whilst Breaden and Warri tookanother. Before long, so complicated were the tracks, we separated. Amore annoying job it is hard to imagine: round and round one goesfollowing a track in all its eccentric windings, running off at rightangles or turning back when its owner had chased a rat or a lizard; atlength there is a long stretch of straight walking and one thinks, "Now, at last, he's done hunting and is making for home"; another disappointmentfollows as one wheels round and finds one's self close to thestarting-point. Such was the experience this day of Breaden, Charlie, and myself, and disgusted we returned to camp at sundown. Warri was solate that I began to think he must have come upon the natives themselves, who had given him too warm a welcome. Presently he appeared, slouchingalong with an expressionless face, save for a twinkle in his eye(literally eye, for one was wall-eyed). My supposition was more or lesscorrect; he had been fortunate in getting on the home-going tracks ofsome gins; following these for several miles he came on their camp--sosuddenly that they nearly saw him. Luckily, he beat a hasty retreat, doubtful of his reception, and hurried home. 

CHAPTER VIII

A DESERT TRIBE

The next morning we were up betimes and ready to start as soon as everthe tracks were visible; presently a smoke, their first hunting-smoke ofthe day, rose close to us. Despatching Charlie on Satan, and Godfrey onfoot, with instructions to catch a native if possible, I hastened alongthe tracks followed by the rest of the party. We reached their camp justin time to see the late inmates disappear into a thicket of mulga closeby. Neither Charlie nor Godfrey was able to come up with the lighters ofthe fire unseen, and these, too, fled into the scrub, where chase wasalmost impossible. Their camp deserves description, as it was the first(excepting travelling camps) we had seen of the desert black-fellow. 

Facing the belt of mulga, was a low wall of uprooted tussocks of spinifexbuilt in a half circle and some two feet high. On the leeward side ofthis breakwind, inside the semi-circle, half a dozen little hollows werescraped out in the sand. Between each of these nests lay a littleheap of ashes, the remains of a fire which burns all night, replenishedfrom time to time from a bundle of sticks kept handy for the purpose. Thenest in the sand is the bed, a double one, and not only double buttreble, and more; for in it, coiled up snugly, may lie several of thetribe, higgledy-piggledy, like pups in a basket. The fire takes the placeof nightshirt, pyjamas, or blanket--a poor substitute on a cold night!Scattered about were several utensils, two wooden coolimans full of waterand grass--this showing that the owners contemplated a journey, for thegrass floating on the surface is used to prevent the water from spilling. Two more coolimans were filled with seed--a fine yellow seed from a plantlike groundsel. Close by these were the flat stones (of granite, evidently traded from tribe to tribe) used for grinding the seed. In thespinifex wall were stuck numerous spears, varying from eight to ten feetin length, straight, thin, and light, hardened by fire, fined down andscraped to a sharp point. Near these was a gin's yam-stick--a stout stickwith a sharp, flat point on one end and charred at the other, used fordigging up roots, stirring the fire, or chastising a dog or child. Theyserve, too, as a weapon of defence. Quaintest of all these articles werethe native "portmanteaus, " that is to say, bundles of treasures rolledup in bark, wound round and round with string--string made from humanhair or from that of dingoes and opossums. In these "portmanteaus" arefound carved sticks, pieces of quartz, red ochre, feathers, and a numberof odds and ends. Of several that were in this camp I took two--mycuriosity and desire to further knowledge of human beings, so unknown andso interesting, overcame my honesty, and since the owners had retired sorudely I could not barter with them. Without doubt the meat-tins and oddsand ends that we left behind us have more than repaid them. One of theseportmanteaus may be seen in the British Museum, the other I have still, unopened. 

Between the camp and the well, which we easily found, there ran awell-beaten foot-pad, showing that this had been a favoured spot for sometime past. The well itself was situated in a belt of mulga-scrub, andsurrounded by a little patch of grass; growing near by, a few good camelbushes, such as acacia and fern-tree (quondongs, by the way, were notseen by us north of Alexander Spring, with the exception of one nearMcPherson's Pillar); enclosing the scrub two parallel banks of sand andstones, with the well in the valley between. Above the well, to the, North, high anthills and tussocks of coarse grass appeared. The wholeoasis covered no more than three acres. The well itself resembled thosealready described, and appeared to have a good supply, so much so that westarted at once to water the camels, which had had no drink since August21st, a period of seventeen days, with the exception of two gallonsapiece at Warri Well, where the parakeelia grew. 

By midnight all but three--Satan, Redleap, and Misery--had drunk as muchas they could hold. These three had to be content with a small amount, for we could not get more without digging out the well, and this weproceeded to do. The night was hot and cloudy, and constant puffs of windmade work by the light of candles so impossible that we had perforce tobear the extra heat of a blazing fire. The native well, as we found it, had been scooped out with hand and cooliman, just large enough to allowone to descend to a depth of fifteen feet, and the sides of the holeplastered back with mud, which had baked hard. To follow this holefurther was not feasible, for going down on a slope as it did, anyfurther deepening would cause the sand to fall in; we had therefore tostart a new vertical shaft from the surface. After a considerable amountof digging we reached water level, and were preparing to bail the water, when with a thud the whole thing caved in, and our labour had to berecommenced. At the time the wedge of ground fell in Godfrey was workingbelow and narrowly escaped being buried. A timely rope fortunately savedhim. I never saw a man come quicker out of a hole! Now we were a bitpuzzled. Our position was this: six camels were watered, three were not, our tanks were empty (my fault, for I should have first filled them andthen the camels; but yet if we had water and the camels had none, wouldwe have been better off?); our well, containing X, an unknown quantity ofwater, had fallen in. Query, whether to recommence digging, or to pack upand follow the blacks? Now, the well might contain a good supply, oryield no more than a gallon or two; and the blacks might or might nothave gone on to a good water. It was a puzzle. Finally we compromised, and I sent Breaden and Warri to hunt up the tracks, whilst we startedwork again. On one side of the well was rock, and by strengthening theother by timber we hoped for success. Luckily plenty of good mulga treeswere handy, and we soon had the timber ready for use. This was the secondnight without rest or food, and no more than a mouthful of water each, for on arrival we had given what our tanks contained to the thirstycamels. 

By putting in crosspieces from side to side of the hole, which we soondiscovered to be an underground rock-hole, and by backing these withtwigs and grass, we managed to make the walls of sand secure, and at lastreached water level, and lost no time, as may well be imagined, in raisinga billyful and having the very best drink we had encountered for a longtime. At the moment almost Breaden and Warri returned, having done theirjob admirably. They had followed the tracks to the next camp, away to theNorth--a dry camp this--and, noticing the direction the blacks had taken, returned home. After a feed and a rest we again set to work, and againthe well fell in, but with less danger this time. It was clear that wecould go no further without some sort of caisson to hold back the finesand. 

Charlie, with his usual ingenuity, constructed a rough but serviceableone out of the wooden guards on the faces of our water-casks and thetin-lined box lids that we had taken from Hubbe's camp at Mount Allott. Instinct had told us right--they were of use!

By this means we reached a depth of thirty feet, first sinking thecaisson, then bailing the water, then continuing the timber and backing. 

The hole so narrowed at the bottom that the water could only be obtainedby stretching out a stick at arm's length, on which was lashed a smallsaucepan. It soon became clear that, labour as we would, the hole wouldyield but little, so, leaving the rest to work, I took Warri, andcontinued the search for the natives from the point where Breaden hadleft their tracks. After a long, tedious day of tracking, we foundourselves back at our own camp. The natives--two bucks, two gins, andthree picaninnies--travelled North to a dry well, and there split, themen going one way and the rest another. We chose the bucks to follow, andpresently the rest joined in, and the whole family swung round untilclose to our camp. We could, by their tracks, see where they had herdedtogether in fear under a beefwood tree not one hundred yards from us. Just before sunset we again set forth, taking Czar and Satan asriding-camels, and were lucky in picking up tracks going in a freshdirection before night fell. 

We camped on the tracks, and ran them in the morning, noticing twointeresting things on the way: the first, several wooden sticks on whichwere skewered dried fruits, not unlike gooseberries; these were hidden ina bush, and are remarkable, for they not only show that the natives havesome forethought, but that they trade in edible goods as well as inweapons and ornaments. These fruits are from the SOLANUM SODOMEUM, andwere only seen by us near the Sturt Creek (three hundred miles away). Thesecond, little heaps of the roots of a tree (known to me only aspine-mulga [Probably a "Hakea. "]) stacked together, which had been suckedfor water; we tried some, but without result, and the tree the nativeshad made use of did not seem to be different from others of its kind. This showed us, too, that they must be dry, and probably had had no watersince our arrival at their well. About midday we rode right on to theircamp without warning. Again the scrub befriended them, but in spite ofthis I could have got ahead of them on Satan had his nose-line notsnapped. Determined not to be baulked, I jumped down and gave chase, oldCzar lumbering along behind, and Warri shouting with glee and excitement, "Chase 'em--we catch em, " as if we were going through all this troublefor pleasure. Happy Warri! he never seemed to see gravity in anything. Itis almost incredible how quickly and completely a black-fellow candisappear; as if in a moment the whole family was out of sight. One blackspot remained visible, and on it I centred my energies. Quicklyoverhauling, I overtook it, and found it to be an old and hideous gin, who, poor thing! had stopped behind to pick up some dingo puppies. 

Sorry as I was to be rude to a lady, I had to make her prisoner, but notwithout a deal of trouble. "Dah, dah, dah!" she shouted, scratching, biting, spitting, and tearing me with her horrid long nails, and using, Ifeel sure, the worst language that her tongue could command. I had tocarry this unsavoury object back to her camp, she clutching at every bushwe passed, when her hands were not engaged in clawing and scratching me. After her anger had somewhat abated she pointed out a rock-hole fromwhich they had got their water. Securing the woman with a light rope, Iput her in Warri's charge, who kept watch above, lest the natives shouldreturn and surprise us, whilst I descended the rock-hole to see whatsupply was there. A little water was visible, which I quickly baled intothe canvas bags we had brought for the purpose. The bottom of the holewas filled in with dead sticks, leaves, the rotting bodies of birds andlizards, bones of rats and dingoes. Into this ghastly mass of filth Isunk up to my middle, and never shall I forget the awful odour that aroseas my feet stirred up the mess. Nevertheless water was there, andthankful I was to find it, even to drink it as it was. After half anhour's work in this stinking pit, sick from the combination ofsmells--distinguishable above every other being the all-pervading perfumeof aboriginals--I was rewarded by some twelve gallons of water, or, moreproperly speaking, liquid. 

I decided to take the gin back with us, as it had been clear to me forsome time past that without the aid of natives we could not hope to findwater. With our small caravan it was impossible to push on and trust tochance, or hope to reach the settled country still nearly five hundredmiles ahead in a bee-line. Even supposing the camels could do thisenormous stage, it was beyond our power to carry sufficient water forourselves. The country might improve or might get worse; in such weatheras we now experienced no camel could go for more than a few days withoutwater. I felt myself justified, therefore, in unceremoniously makingcaptives from what wandering tribes we might fall in with. And in lightof after events I say unhesitatingly that, without having done so, andwithout having to a small extent used rough treatment to some natives socaught, we could not by any possibility have succeeded in crossing thedesert, and should not only have lost our own lives, but possibly thoseof others who would have made search for us after. "A man arms himselfwhere his armour is weakest, " so I have read; that, however, is not mycase. I am not justifying myself to myself, or defending a line of actionnot yet assailed. I write this in answer to some who have unfavourablycriticised my methods, and to those I would say, "Put yourselves in ourposition, and when sitting in a comfortable armchair at home, in thecentre of civilisation, do not, you who have never known want or sufferedhardship, be so ready to judge others who, hundreds of miles from theirfellow-men, threatened every day with possible death from thirst, weredoing their best to lay bare the hidden secrets of an unknown region, asarid and desolate as any the world can show. "

On starting back for camp the gin refused to walk or move in any way, sowe had to pack her on Czar, making her as comfortable as possible onWarri's blankets, with disastrous results thereto. Arrived at camp, Ifound that the rock-hole was bottomed, and now quite dry. Straining theputrid water brought by me through a flannel shirt, boiling it, addingashes and Epsom salts, we concocted a serviceable beverage. This, blendedwith the few gallons of muddy water from the well, formed our supply, which we looked to augment under the guidance of the gin. Aftercompleting our work the well presented the appearance of a largerock-hole, thirty feet deep, conical in shape, of which one-half thecontents had been dug out. This confirmed my opinion that the nativewells of these regions are nothing more than holes in the bed-rock, whichhave been covered over and in by the general deposit of sand. I had notime to observe for latitude at this spot, the position of which is fixedmerely by dead reckoning. The rock-hole lies eight miles from it to theS. E. By E. , and has no guide whatever to its situation. I christened thewell "Patience Well, " and I think it was well named. 

From September 8th, 9 a. M. , until September 12th, 12. 30 a. M. , we hadworked almost continuously, only taking in turn what sleep we couldsnatch when one could be spared; and the result, 140 gallons as sumtotal, inclusive of mud and other matter. 

We left Patience Well on the 12th, at 10 a. M. , taking the woman with us. Breaden was the only one in whose charge she would consent to be at allcalm; to him therefore was allotted the duty of looking after her. Ateleven we reached the dry well to which Warri and I had tracked thenatives. The water we were forced to use was so uninviting that I decidedto make another effort to find a supply in this locality. The gin was ofno use whatever, and would only repeat whatever we said to her--"Gabbi, "which King Billy had understood, was wasted on her. "Gabbi, gabbi, " sherepeated, waving her arm all round the horizon. Leaving the rest tobottom the dry well, which might have water lower down, Warri and I againstarted off on the tracks of a buck, and these we followed due North onfoot for four and a half hours, hoping every moment to come on a well. Soon after starting an apparently old track joined the other, andtogether they marched still North. Presently the old tracks changed intofresh ones, and close by I found two rough sandals made of strips ofbark. One I kept, the other was too nearly worn out. There was no changein the dreary appearance of the country; through scrubs, over stones andsand we held our way, until Warri, who was now a little way behind, called, "No good, no more walk!" I could see the poor boy was knockedup, and felt little better myself; to go on did not guarantee water, andmight end in disaster, so after a short rest we retraced our steps. Thenight was now dark and oppressive, so hatless and shirtless we flounderedthrough the spinifex, nearly exhausted from the walk, following so closeon the last few days' work. I believe that but for Warri I should havebeen "bushed"; my head was muddled, and the stars not too clear. What ajoyful sight met our eyes as we crested a rise of sand--a sight almost asreviving as the food and water we so anxiously looked forward to. Tonguesof flame shot up in the air, a fire lit by our mates, but showing that, in spite of Warri's instinct, we had not been walking in quite the rightdirection. No welcome news greeted our arrival--the well was dry, and thenative obdurate. We all agreed she was useless, and since she refused allforms of nutriment I feared she would die on our hands, so she regainedher liberty, and fled away with a rapidity not expected in one of heryears. 

My companions had felt some anxiety at our continued absence, and again Ihad evidence of the cordial friendship existing between us. 

With reference to the bark sandals, the use of which is not so farknown, I append an extract from "The Horn Scientific Expedition, " PartIV. , where we read the following:

"SANDALS. "Arunta Tribe. 

"KURDAITCHA SHOES. --When a native for some reason desired to kill amember of another camp or tribe, he consulted the medicine man of hiscamp, and arrangements were made for a 'Kurdaitcha Luma. ' . . . Bothmedicine man and Kurdaitcha wore remarkable shoes. These had the form ofa long pad made of human hair, with numberless emu feathers intertwined, and with a certain amount of human blood to act as a cementing substance. 

" . . . Both ends of the shoes were rounded off, and were exactly similarto one another, which has given rise to the erroneous idea that theirobject was to prevent the wearer being tracked . . . "

But no other explanation is offered. 

Breaden says tracks of a man wearing these emu-feather shoes are veryindistinct, but has no certain knowledge of their use. Warri, looking atthe bark sandals, said, "Black-fella wear 'em 'long a hot sand. "Questioned about the emu-feather shoes, he gave the usual answer, "Idunno, " and then added, probably to please me, as I had suggested theexplanation, "Black-fella no more see 'em track, I think. "

It was clear that no good results were likely to follow further search inthis locality, for the tracks were so numerous, and crossed and recrossedso often, that nothing could be made out of them. The country to theNorth being so uninviting, I altered our course to North-East, and againto North, when we sighted a smoke, and, following tracks, camped on them. 

"Mud and oatmeal for breakfast, " September 14th; truly the sage spoke whoremarked, "What does not fatten will fill. " Such was our fare, and theonly doubt we had was lest the compound should be turned into brick bythe sun's heat! However, it was sustaining enough to last us all day, occupied in tracking. Two dry wells, connected by a well-trodden pad halfa mile long, rewarded our labours; and here we had the conviction forcedupon us that the blacks themselves were hard pressed: we could see wheredust and dirt had been recently removed from the bottom of the wells, both of which were over fifteen feet in depth, and one over twenty. Werethe natives hard pressed for water, or had they heard of our coming, andwere by smokes guiding us to empty wells? Unpleasant speculation, whenone's tanks contain nothing but a nasty brown liquid, and the countrylooks as if it had not known rain for years!

September 15th. Another smoke to the North-East; again we steer for it, as if following a will-o'-the-wisp. The continued semi-starvation, hardwork, and heat was beginning to leave its mark. None of our friends orrelatives would have recognised us now! Clothed in filthy rags, withunkempt hair and beards, begrimed with mud, and burnt black by the sunwherever its rays could penetrate our armour of dirt, we were indeed apretty lot. That night we tied the camels down--there was no feed forthem; besides, I wished them handy in the morning, for we could not befar from natives now unless the smoke had deceived us. The next day thedesolation of the country was increased by vast areas of burnt ground, from which rose clouds of dust and ashes--no gravel was here to arrestthe onslaught of the wind upon the sand. Towards evening we were doomedto experience fresh discouragement, for in front of us, seen from risingground, there stretched ridge upon ridge of barren sand, black from thecharred remains of spinifex. To tackle those ridges in our then plightmeant grave risks to be run, and that night the responsibility of myposition weighed heavily upon my thoughts. I prayed for strength anddetermination--for to each one of us must have come the thought of whatour fate might be. I feel sure that all were ready to face boldlywhatever was in store, and were resolved to do their utmost--and whatmore can man do?

To go forward was our only course, since we meant to get through. Beforesunrise, black and weary we started, having fed on tinned vegetables, the only article amongst our provisions possessing any moisture. 

Before long we were amongst the ridges. What a desolate scene! Ridge uponridge of sand, black from the ashes of burnt spinifex. Not a sound orsign of life, except the grunts of the camels as they strained up thesandy slopes. Presently we sighted a newly lighted hunting smoke, not amile from us; with my field-glasses I could see the flames of thefiercely burning spinifex lapping the crest of a high sand-ridge. Leavingthe tracks I was following I rejoined the main party, and, calling toCharlie to accompany me, and to the others to follow us as fast as theycould, I set off for the fire. Having anticipated reaching the scene ofthe smoke early this morning, we had divided up Czar's load amongst theremainder of the caravan, and for the time transformed him into ariding-camel, and so two of us were mounted. On nearer approach we pulledup to give our steeds a blow, and, unseen ourselves, we watched thenatives hunting, all unsuspicious of the near presence of beings andanimals so strange in colour and form. 

Advancing slowly from opposite directions, we were able to get within ahundred yards of them before our silent approach was noticed. No wordscan describe the look of terror and amazement on the faces of those wildsavages. Spellbound they crouched in the black and smouldering ashes ofthe spinifex, mouths open and eyes staring, and then with one terrificyell away they ran, dodging and doubling until a somewhat bushy beefwoodtree seemed to offer them means of escape. How many there had been I donot know, but the tree harboured three, the man, woman, and child, thatwe had first singled out. All kept up a ceaseless screaming andgesticulating, reminding me of the monkey-house at the "Zoo"; but abovethe others could be distinguished the voice of the old gin who, withfrantic haste, tried to screen the man with branches broken from theirtree of refuge, and who in the intervals between this occupation and thatof shaking a stick at us, set a light to the surrounding spinifex eitheras a signal or with the hope of keeping us at a distance; for with allher fear she had not let drop her firestick. Thinking that they would becompletely overawed by the appearance of the rest of the caravan, and somake no further attempt to escape, we sat sentinel on our camels andawaited the arrival of the main party. Presently they appeared, and thetrembling fear of the natives was painful to witness--never by anypossibility could they have seen camels or white men, though consideringthe extent to which articles are passed from tribe to tribe, it isprobable they had heard of the "white-fella. " Even to European eyes acamel is not the canniest of beasts, and since these people had neverseen an animal larger than a dingo, and, indeed, no animal save this andthe spinifex rat, their surprise may well be imagined on seeing a thingas large as their whole camp marching solemnly along. 

Putting down the caravan we approached them, and from a mad, incoherentyelling their protestations gradually died down to an occasional gulplike that of a naughty child. Making soothing sounds and patting theirbreasts and our own in turn, in sign of friendship, we had plenty of timeto inspect them. An old lady, with grizzled hair, toothless and distortedin countenance, with legs and arms mere bones, and skin shrunken andparched; a girl-child, perhaps six years old, by no means an ugly littlething, and a youngish man made up the trio; all stark-naked, andunadorned by artificial means, unless one excepts a powerfully scentedmixture of grease and ashes, with which their bodies were smeared. Thebuck--poor fellow!--was suffering from some horrible skin disease, whichspread over his chest and back. He seemed to have but little power in hisarms, and a pitiful object he was, as we uncovered him from his screen ofbranches. Having apparently satisfied them that it was not our intentionto eat them, by signs we showed them our pressing need for water--thesethey readily understood--doubtless because their own daily experience isone constant hunt for food or water. Evidently we had the former with usin the shape of camels, therefore we could only want the latter. Thelittle child very soon showed great confidence, and, taking my hand, ledus over a neighbouring sand-ridge. The old lady took a great fancy toGodfrey, and convinced us that flirting is by no means confined tocivilisation. 

Leading us obliquely across the ridges we had just passed over, some twomiles from the scene of their hunting, they halted at their well. To theNorth of it an almost barren ridge of sand rising to a height of perhapssixty feet, and running away East and West for possibly ten miles withouta break, from the crest of which we could see a limitless sea of ridgesas far as the eye could reach to the Northward (a cheerful prospect!), tothe South the undulating treeless desert of gravel we had just crossed. Between the foot of the ridge and a stony slope the well was situated--theusual little round hole in the sand--a small patch of roly-poly grassmaking a slight difference in the appearance of the country immediatelysurrounding the hole. As well as this roly-poly, we were delighted to seea few scattered plants of parakeelia, and lost no time in unloading andhobbling the camels, who in their turn made all haste to devour thislife-giving vegetation. 

Camp made, we set to work on the well, sinking our boxes as before, ourblack friends watching us with evident interest. Presently we heard ashrill call, and, looking up, saw the rest of the family hesitatingbetween curiosity and fear. The old gin reassured them and theyapproached--a man, a young mother with a baby at the breast, and two morechildren. There were evidently more not far off who were too timid tocome on, as we heard calls from beyond the ridge. This buck was a fine, upstanding fellow, very lithe and strong, though thin and small ofbone. Dressed in the fashionable desert costume of nothing at all, excepting a band of string round his forehead, and a similar belt roundhis waist, from which hung all round him the spoils of the chase, with aspear in one hand and throwing-sticks in the other he looked a queerfigure in the setting sun--iguanas and lizards dangling head down from hishair and his waist-string--indeed a novel way of carrying game. His ladyfollowed him with a cooliman under her arm, with a further supply ofreptiles and rats. 

The whole family established themselves close to us. Their camp had beennear the crest of the ridge, but, apparently liking our company, theyshifted their household goods, and, starting a fire within twenty yardsof us, were soon engaged in cooking and eating their supper. The processof preparing a meal is simple in the extreme. The rats are plucked (forthey do not skin the animal, but pluck the hair as we do feathers from achicken), and thrown on to a pile of hot wood-ashes with no furtherpreparation, and are greedily devoured red and bloody, and but barelywarm. A lizard or iguana calls for a further exercise of culinaryknowledge. First, a crooked twig is forced down the throat and the insidepulled out, which dainty is thrown to any dog or child that happens to benear; the reptile is then placed on hot coals until distended to theutmost limit that the skin will bear without bursting, then it is placedon ashes less hot, and covered with the same, and after a few minutes ispronounced cooked and ready for the table. The old lady did the cooking, and kept up an incessant chattering and swearing the while. We noticedhow kind they were to the poor diseased buck, giving him little tit-bitsof half-raw rat's flesh, which he greatly preferred to any food we fedhim. They were strange, primitive people, and yet kind and grateful. Weanointed the sick man's wounds with tar and oil (a mixture used for mangein camels), and were well rewarded for our unsavoury task by his dog-likelooks of satisfaction and thanks. We had ample opportunity to watch themat night, as our well-sinking operations kept us up. They seemed afraidto sleep or lie down, and remained crouching together in their littlehollows in the sand until morning. To break the force of the wind, whichblew rather chilly, they had set up the usual spinifex fence, and betweeneach little hollow a small fire burnt. The stillness of the night wasonly broken by the occasional cry of the baby, and this was immediatelysuppressed by the mother in a novel manner, viz. , by biting the infant'sear--a remedy followed by almost immediate success. I beg to recommendthis exceedingly effective plan to any of my lady readers whose night'srest is troubled by a teething child--doubtless the husband's bite wouldhave an equally good effect, but the poor baby's ears might suffer from acombination of a strong jaw and a ruffled temper. 

What a strange sound--that little picaninny's cry; surrounded as we wereby a boundless sea of sand, it made one think how small a speck our partywas on the face of the earth; it somehow took one's thoughts back tocivilisation and crowded cities, and one felt that it was not just verycertain if one would see such things again; and how little it would taketo wipe us out, like gnats squashed on a vast window-pane! In the morningwe sent the able-bodied man away to hunt, but his interest in us soonovercame his desire for game, and he returned, and presently made himselfuseful by carrying roots of bushes for our fire, for wood was hard toget, and the nearest tree hardly in sight. I presented the buck with anold pyjama jacket, and a great swell he thought himself too, struttingabout and showing himself off to the others. In exchange for numerousarticles they gave us, we attached coins round their necks, and on asmall round plate, which I cut out of a meat-tin, I stamped my initialand the date, C. 1896. This I fixed on a light nickel chain and hunground the neck of the good-looking young gin, to her intensegratification. It will be interesting to know if ever this ornament isseen again. I only hope some envious tribesman will not be tempted toknock the poor thing on the head to possess himself of this shiningnecklace. 

Amongst their treasures which they carried, wrapped up in bundles of barkand hair, one of the most curious was a pearl oyster-shell, which wasworn by the buck as a sporran. Now this shell (which I have in mypossession) could only have come from the coast, a distance of nearlyfive hundred miles, and must have been passed from hand to hand, and fromtribe to tribe. Other articles they had which I suppose were similarlytraded for, viz. , an old iron tent-peg, the lid of a tin matchbox, and apart of the ironwork of a saddle on which the stirrup-leathers hang. Thispiece of iron was stamped A1; this, I fear, is hardly a sufficient cluefrom which to trace its origin. Their weapons consisted of spears, barbedand plain, brought to a sharp or broad point; woommeras, throwing-sticks, and boomerangs of several shapes, also a bundle of fire-making implements, consisting of two sticks about two feet long, the one hard and pointed, the other softer, and near one end a round hollow, into which the hardpoint fits. By giving a rapid rotary movement to the hard stick heldupright between the palms of the hands, a spark will before long begenerated in the hole in the other stick, which is kept in place on theground by the feet. By blowing on the spark, a little piece of driedgrass, stuck in a nick in the edge of the hollow, will be set alight andthe fire obtained. 

As a matter of fact this method is not often used, since, when travellingfrom camp to camp, a firestick or burning brand is carried and replacedwhen nearly consumed. The gins sometimes carry two of these, one in frontand one behind, the flames pointing inwards; and with a baby sittingstraddle-legs over their neck and a cooliman under their arms make quitea pretty picture. 

Amongst the ornaments and decorations were several sporrans of curiousmanufacture. Some were made up of tassels formed of the tufts of boody'stails; other tassels were made from narrow strips of dog's skin (with thehair left on) wound round short sticks; others were made in a similarway, of what we conjectured to be bullock's hair. All the tassels werehung on string of opossum or human hair, and two neat articles werefashioned by stringing together red beans [Beans of the Erythrina] set inspinifex gum, and other seeds from trees growing in a more Northerlylatitude. This again shows their trading habits. Here, too, wereportmanteaus, holding carved sticks of various shapes and patterns, emu-plumes, nose-bones and nose-sticks, plaited bands of hair string, andnumerous other odds and ends. 

In the evening we watered the camels, and lucky it was that theparakeelia existed, and so satisfied them with its watery juice that theywere contented with very little, Satan and Misery not swallowing morethan two gallons each. Lucky indeed, because even with another night'swork we were only just able to get a sufficient supply to carry us on fora few days, and but for the parakeelia either we or the camels would havehad to go short. 

We did not completely exhaust the water in the well--not, I fear, becausewe studied the convenience of the natives, but because our makeshiftappliances did not enable us to sink deeper. So we bade adieu to oursimple black friends, and set our faces to the sand-ridges. On leavingcamp in the morning I found a piece of candle lying on the ground. Ithrew it to the buck, and he, evidently thinking it good to eat, put itin his mouth, holding the wick in his fingers, and, drawing off thetallow with his teeth, swallowed it with evident relish. 

CHAPTER IX

DR. LEICHARDT'S LOST EXPEDITION

At this point I must ask pardon of the courteous reader for a seemingdigression, and interpolate a short account of Dr. Leichardt's lostexpedition--as to the fate of which nothing is known; and although noapparent connection exists between it and this narrative, it may be thatin our journey we have happened on traces, and that the pieces of ironmentioned in the last chapter may serve as some clue to its fate. Onarrival in civilisation I sent these iron relics, with some nativecurios, to Mr. Panton, Police Magistrate, of Melbourne, Victoria, agentleman whose knowledge, and ability to speak with authority on mattersconcerning Australian exploration is recognised as the highest. 

When, therefore, Mr. Panton expresses the opinion that the tent-peg wasthe property of Dr. Leichardt, one may be sure that he has good groundsfor his supposition. Whether Leichardt lost his life in the heart of thiswilderness or not, the complete mystery hiding his fate makes his historysufficiently remarkable; and though I consider that there is little toshow that he ever reached a point so far across the continent, there isno reason that he should not have done so, and I leave it for my readersto form their own opinion. 

Ludwig Leichardt, after carrying out successfully several journeys inQueensland and the Northern Territory, undertook the gigantic task ofcrossing Australia from East to West, viz. , from Moreton Bay to the SwanRiver Settlements. 

Towards the end of 1847, accompanied by eight white men, two black-boys, and provisions to last two years, he started, taking with him one hundredand eighty sheep, two hundred and seventy goats, forty bullocks, fifteenhorses, and thirty mules. After travelling with little or no progress forseven months, during which time the whole stock of cattle and sheep werelost, the party returned. Not discouraged by this disastrous terminationto his scheme, Leichardt resolved on another expedition with the sameobject in view. 

Before many months he, with the same number of companions but with feweranimals, set out again. On the 3rd of April, 1848, he wrote fromFitzroy Downs, expressing hope and confidence as to the ultimatesuccess of the expedition. Since that date, neither tidings nor traceshave been found of the lost explorer, nor of any of his men orbelongings. Several search-parties were organised and a large rewardoffered, but all in vain--and the scene of his disaster remainsundiscovered to this day. Many and various are the theories propoundedwith regard to his fate. It is held by some that the whole party werecaught in the floods of the Cooper. This creek is now known to spreadout, after heavy rains at its source, to a width of between forty andfifty miles. So heavy and sudden is the rain in semi-tropical Australia, that a traveller may be surrounded by flood-waters, while not a drop oflocal rain may fall. Leichardt, in those early days, would labour underthe disadvantage of knowing neither the seasons, nor the rainfall, and inall likelihood would choose the valley of a creek to travel along, sinceit would afford feed for his stock. It seems reasonable to suppose that aflood alone could make so clean a sweep of men, cattle, and equipmentthat even keen-eyed aboriginals have failed (so far as is known) todiscover any relics. 

Another theory, and that held by Mr. Panton, is that the deserts ofCentral and Western Australia hold the secret of his death. This theoryis based, I believe, on the fact that Gregory, in the fifties, found onthe Elsey Creek (North Australia) what he supposed to be the camp of awhite man. This in conjunction with some vague reports by natives wouldpoint to Leichardt having travelled for the first part of his journeyconsiderably further north than was his original intention, with a viewto making use of the northern rivers. Supposing that his was the campseen on the Elsey, a tributary of the Victoria River, it would have beennecessary for him to alter his course to nearly due South-West to enablehim to reach the Swan River. This course would have taken him through theheart of the desert, through the very country we now were in. For my partI think that trade from tribe to tribe sufficiently accounts for thepresence of such articles as tent-pegs and pieces of iron, thoughstrangely enough an iron tent-peg is not commonly used nowadays, stakesof wood being as serviceable, and none but a large expedition would beburdened with the unnecessary weight of iron pegs. 

CHAPTER X

THE DESERT OF PARALLEL SAND-RIDGES

My position for Family Well is lat. 22 degrees 40 minutes, long. 125degrees 54 minutes. The well, as already stated, is situated at the footof the southern slope of a high sand-ridge. This ridge is the first of aseries of parallel banks of sand which extend, with occasional breaks, from lat. 22 degrees 41 minutes to 19 degrees 20 minutes--a distance ofnearly 250 miles in a straight line. From September 16th to November 16thwe were never out of sight of a sand ridge, and during that time travelled420 miles, taking into account all deviations consequent upon steering forsmokes and tracking up natives, giving an average of not quite seven milesa day, including stoppages. This ghastly desert is somewhat broken in itsnorthern portion by the occurrence of sandstone tablelands, the SoutheskTablelands; the southern part, however, viz. , from lat. 22 degrees 41minutes to lat. 20 degrees 45 minutes presents nothing to the eye butridge upon ridge of sand, running with the regularity of the drills in aploughed field. A vast, howling wilderness of high, spinifex-clad ridgesof red sand, so close together that in a day's march we crossed from sixtyto eighty ridges, so steep that often the camels had to crest them ontheir knees, and so barren and destitute of vegetation (saving spinifex)that one marvels how even camels could pick up a living. I estimate theiraverage vertical height from trough to crest at fifty to sixty feet. Somewere mere rises, whilst others reached a height of considerably over onehundred feet. Sometimes the ridges would be a quarter of a mile apart, and sometimes ridge succeeded ridge like the waves of the sea. On October3rd, for instance, I find that we were crossing them at a rate of ten inforty minutes. This gives a result of 105 ridges to be negotiated in aday's march of seven hours. Riding was almost impossible in such countryas this, for all our energies were required to urge on the poor camels. All through, we adhered to the same plan as before, viz. , doing our day'smarch without a halt (excepting of course the numerous stoppages entailedby broken nose-lines, the disarrangement of a pack, or the collapse of acamel), having no food or water from daylight until camping-time. This, without our previous training, would have been an almost impossible task, for each ridge had to be climbed--there was no going round them orpicking out a low place, no tacking up the slope--straight ahead, up oneside, near the top a wrench and a snap, down goes a camel, away go thenose-lines, a blow for the first and a knot for the second, over thecrest and down, then a few paces of flat going, then up again and downagain, and so on day after day. The heat was excessive--practically therewas no shade. 

The difficulties of our journey were increased by the necessity ofcrossing the ridges almost at right angles. With almost heart-breakingregularity they kept their general trend of E. By N. And W. By S. , causing us from our Northerly course to travel day after day against thegrain of the country. An Easterly or Westerly course would have beeninfinitely less laborious, as in that case we could have travelled alongthe bottom of the trough between two ridges for a great distance beforehaving to cross over any. The troughs and waves seem to be corrugationsin the surface of greater undulations; for during a day's march or so, onreaching the top of one ridge, our view forwards was limited to the nextridge, until a certain point was reached, from which we could see ineither direction; and from this point onwards the ridges sank before usfor a nearly equal distance, and then again they rose, each ridge higherthan the last. Words can give no conception of the ghastly desolation andhopeless dreariness of the scene which meets one's eyes from the crest ofa high ridge. The barren appearance of the sand is only intensified bythe few sickly and shrunken gums that are dotted over it. In the troughsoccasional clumps of shrubs, or scrubs, [e. G. , Mulga (ACACIA ANAEURA), grevillea, hakea, ti-tree (MELALEUCA) and in the northern portion desertoaks (CASUARINA DESCAINEANA)] or small trees are met with, and everywhereare scattered tussocks of spinifex. True it is, though, that even thispoverty-stricken plant has its uses, for it serves to bind the sand andkeep the ridges, for the most part, compact. Where spinifex does notgrow, for instance on the tops of the ridges, one realises how impossiblea task it would be to travel for long over banks of loose sand. 

I find that my estimate for the average height of the sand-ridges isconsiderably lower than that of Colonel Warburton. It is interesting, therefore, to compare his account of these ridges, though it must beremembered that Colonel Warburton was travelling on a westerly course, and we from our northerly direction only traversed country previouslyseen by him, for the short distance that our sight would command, at thepoint of intersection of our two tracks. In an editorial note in his bookwe read:--

"They varied considerably both in their size and in their distance fromeach other, but eighty feet may be regarded as an average in the formerrespect and three hundred yards in the latter. 

"They ran parallel to each other in an East and West direction, so thatwhile pursuing either of these courses the travellers kept in thevalleys, formed by two of them, and got along without much exertion. Itwas when it became necessary to cross them at a great angle that thestrain on the camels proved severe, for on the slopes their feet sankdeeply into the sand, and their labours were most distressing towitness. "

CHAPTER XI

FROM FAMILY WELL TO HELENA SPRING

On leaving Family Well it was suggested by Charlie and Godfrey that weshould take one of our native friends with us. No doubt this would havebeen the most sensible plan, and would have saved us much trouble. However, I did not care to take either of the females, the sick man wasevidently of no use to us, and it was pretty evident that the sound buckwas the chief hunter, and that without him, the little tribe would behard pressed to find food. As we were not in absolute need of water for afew days to come, I decided to leave the family in quiet enjoyment oftheir accustomed surroundings. I had now given up all hope of finding anyother than desert country ahead of us, and had no longer any otherpurpose than that of traversing the region that lay between us and"white settlements" with as little harm to ourselves and our camels ascare and caution could command. Our course was now North-East, as it wasnecessary to make more easting to bring us near the longitude of Hall'sCreek. We continued for three days on this course, the ridges running dueEast and West. The usual vegetation was to be seen, relieved byoccasional patches of a low, white plant having the scent of lavender. This little plant grew chiefly on the southern slope of the ridges, andwas seen by us in no other locality. A specimen brought home by me wasidentified at Kew Gardens as a new variety of Dicrastylis, and has beennamed DICRASTYLIS CARNEGIEI. 

Large tracts of burnt country had to be crossed from which clouds of dustand ashes were continually rising, blown up by "Willy-Willies" (spiralwinds). These were most deceptive, it being very hard to distinguishbetween them and hunting-smokes. After one or two disappointments we wereable to determine, from a distance, the nature of these clouds of blackdust. On the 22nd we turned due East towards some smokes and whatappeared to be a range of hills beyond them. The smokes, however, turnedout to be dust-storms, and the range to be immense sandhills. Here we sawthe first desert oak, standing solitary sentinel on the crest of a ridge. Around the burnt ground several old tracks were visible, some of which wefollowed, but with no better result than two dry rock-holes and a drynative well one mile from them. Near the latter was an old native camp, in which we found several small, pointed sticks, so planed as to leave abunch of shavings on the end. I have seen similar sticks stuck up onnative graves near Coolgardie, but have no idea of their propersignificance. Probably they are merely ornaments. 

A line of cliffs next met our view, and to them we turned. These werehigher rocks or hills than we had seen for some time, and presentedrather a remarkable appearance. Formed of a conglomerate of sandstone andround ironstone pebbles, they stood up like a wall on the top of a longslope of easy grade, covered with gravel and loose pebbles. At the footlay boulders great and small, in detached heaps like so many piecesbroken from a giant plum-pudding. In the face of the cliffs were numerousholes and caves, the floors of which gave ample evidence of the presenceof bats and wallabies. Of these latter we saw several, but could not geta shot; careful exploration of these caves, on hands and knees, led tothe finding of a fair-sized rock-hole, unfortunately quite dry. I have nodoubt that these wallabies, like the spinifex rats, are so constitutedthat water is not to them a necessity, and that the spinifex rootsafford sufficient moisture to keep them alive. We saw no traces ofspinifex rats at any of the wells we found, nor did we see any waterwhich they could reach or from which, having reached it, they could climbup again to the surface. From the top of the cliffs an extensive view tothe South and North was obtained. But such a view! With powerfulfield-glasses nothing could be seen but ridge succeeding ridge, as if thewhole country had been combed with a mammoth comb. From these points ofthe compass the cliffs must be visible for a considerable distance. Theirrather remarkable appearance made me think them worth naming, so theywere christened "Wilson's Cliffs, " after my old friend and partner. 

The entry in my diary for the 25th would stand for many other days. Itruns: "Most wretched sand-ridge country, ridges East and West, andtimbered with very occasional stunted gums--extensive patches of bare, burnt country with clouds of dust. Absolutely no feed for camels--or forany other animal for that matter. "

Such miserable country beggars description. Nothing is more heartrendingthan to be forced to camp night after night with the knowledge that one'spoor animals are wandering vainly in search of feed. To tie them downwould have given them some rest, but at the same time it entailed theircertain starvation; whilst, wandering about, they stood some chance ofpicking up a mouthful or two. How anxiously each ridge was scanned whencamping-time drew near--no feed--on again another ridge or two, nofeed--just one more ridge, and, alas! "no feed" is again the cry. So wecamped perforce without it, and often the famished camels would wandertwo or three miles in the night in search of it, and this meant an extrawalk to recover them in the morning. 

On the morning of the 27th Warri brought in all the camels but one, witha message from Breaden that Misery was dying. Small wonder if all hadbeen in the same state, for we were now eight days from the last water, and tough as camels are they cannot go waterless and foodless for verymany days in such trying country as this. Poor old Misery! This was sadnews indeed, but all that could be done to save him should be done. 

This morning a smoke rose due West of us. We had seen so few signs ofnatives lately that we could not afford to neglect this, even though itwas so far from our proper course. 

By the time we had loaded the camels and distributed his load amongst therest, Breaden brought Misery into camp, and when we started, followedwith him behind us, coaxing him along as best he could. Eight milesbrought us into the region of the burning spinifex and fresh tracks;despatching Charlie on Satan, and Godfrey and Warri on foot, to track upand catch a native if possible, I unloaded the camels and awaitedBreaden's arrival. Presently he came alone, saying that poor Misery wasdone for and could move no further, so he had left him. I felt sure thatthat was the case, since Breaden would not have come without him if therehad been any possibility of getting him further. Nevertheless, I couldnot bear to leave my faithful and favourite camel to die by slow degrees, and returned on Breaden's tracks. I took with me a brandy-bottle full ofEpsom salts and water, for from Breaden's account of his way of going onI felt sure that poor Misery had eaten some poisonous plant. Four milesback I found him lying apparently dead in the shade of a tree, or wherethe shade would have been had there been any foliage; he knew me andlooked up when I spoke to and patted him, and rested his head in my lapas I sat down beside him; but no amount of coaxing could get him on hislegs. Having administered the salts, which he evidently enjoyed, Iproceeded to bleed him by slitting his ear; my knife, however, was notsharp enough, (for everything becomes dulled in this sand) to do the jobproperly, and he bled but little. I could do nothing but wait, so takinga diminutive edition of Thackeray from my pocket, for I had foreseen thislong wait, I read a chapter from "Vanity Fair. " Presently I got him onhis legs and he walked for about thirty yards, then down he went in aheap on the ground; another wait, and more "Vanity Fair. " Then on again, and down again, and so on hour after hour. Soon nothing but brutaltreatment would make him stir, so I hardened my heart and used a stickwithout mercy. What a brute I felt as he turned his great eyesreproachfully upon me! "Never mind, Misery, old chap, it must be done tosave your life!" At last I reached a ridge within one hundred yards ofthe camp, and here Breaden met me, bringing with him four gallons ofwater and the welcome news that the others had captured two bucks who hadshown a well three miles north. 

This water saved Misery's life, and was just in time. We reached camp asthe camels were reloaded and ready to start for the well under theguidance of the two bucks. Both of these were fair-sized men, and onestood six feet at least, though from the method of doing the hair in abunch at the top of the head they appear taller than they really are. Godfrey and Warri had tracked them right into their camp and surprised afamily of numerous gins, young and old, several picaninnies, and threebucks, one of whom was stone blind. They were preparing their eveningmeal, and amongst the spoils of the chase there were opossums, whosetracks on one of two large gum-trees not far off we afterwards saw. I hadalways associated opossums with good country; however, here they were. Ofthe natives, some fled as soon as Godfrey and Warri approached, whilstthe men were uncommonly anxious to dispute this unceremonious visit totheir camp. They were on the point of active hostilities when Charlierode up on Satan, and they then thought better of it. Even so they werenot persuaded to accompany the white men back to camp withoutconsiderable difficulty. The smaller man managed to escape; the other weafterwards christened Sir John, because he was so anxious to make us digout old dry wells, so that presumably they should be ready for the nextrain. There seemed to us to exist a certain similarity between his viewsand those of the Government, which is ever ready to make use of thepioneer's labours where it might be justly expected to expend its own. 

This fellow was most entertaining, and took a great interest in all ourbelongings. I, coming last, seemed to excite keen delight, though he wasnaturally a little shy of his captors; he patted me on the chest, felt myshirt and arms, and was greatly taken by a tattoo on one of them. Grinning like any two Cheshire cats, he showed his approval by "clicking"his tongue with a side shake of the head, at the same time snapping histhumb and finger. Breaden, too, came in for Sir John's approval, and wassimilarly patted and pulled about. 

Godfrey had taken a rather handy-looking tomahawk from the buck, madefrom the half of a horseshoe, one point of which was ground to a prettysharp edge--a primitive weapon, but distinctly serviceable. Unlike ourfriend at Family Well, this man had not even a shell to wear, and beyondan unpleasantly scented mixture of fat and ashes, with which he wassmeared, was hampered by no sort of clothing whatever. As usual, he wasscarred on the chest and forehead, and wore his hair in a mop, held backby a band of string. His teeth were a picture, not only clean and white, which is usual, but uncommonly small and sharp, as one of us found!Leaving him to the main party to take on to the well, I and Warriremained behind to bring Misery on--and a nice job we had too. I thoughtof waiting and packing water back to him, but in that case he would havefallen an easy victim to the natives, who were bound to be prowlingabout, nor could one of us be spared to watch him. So he had to be beatenand hauled and dragged, by stages of twenty yards at a time, over theridges. After darkness fell we had to follow the tracks with a firestickuntil we had the fire at camp to guide us. This we reached about 9. 30p. M. , fairly tired out, but satisfied that the poor, patient sufferer'slife was saved. The others had already started work on the well, butknocked off when I got back, and we had a good feed and a short rest. SirJohn was much distressed at his party having taken away all their foodwhen they retreated, and was hardly consoled by what we gave him. Tethered to a ti-tree, with a little fire to cheer him, he was apparentlyhappy enough. 

The rest of the night we worked at the well in shifts, and Charlie and I, the first shift, started off soon after daybreak with the buck to findmore water, for it was evident that our present supply was insufficient. We felt pretty certain from the way the tribe had left that another wellexisted close by; the question was, would our captive show it? He startedin great glee and at a great pace, carrying behind him, like a"back-board, " a light stick. This will be found to open the lungs andmake a long walk less fatiguing, except for the strain on the arms. Occasionally he would stop and bind strips of bark round his ankles andbelow the knee. "Gabbi" was just over the next ridge, he assured us bysigns--it was always "the next ridge"--until when nearly ten miles fromcamp we saw a smoke rise ahead of us, but so far away that we could do nogood by going on. However, we had gained something by locating a freshcamp, so started homewards, the buck becoming most obstreperous when hesaw our change of plan, for he made it clear by signs that the gins(indicating their breasts by covering his own with his hands) and theblind man (pointing to his own closed eyes and making a crooked track inthe sand) and the rest, had circled round and gone to the camp from whichwe could see the smoke rising. However, he could not escape and soon gavein, and followed reluctantly behind, dragging at the rope. 

Walking was bad enough, but this extra exertion was rather too much. Besides, we were sadly in need of sleep; so, taking advantage of whatlittle shade we could find by following round the shadow of a gum tree asthe sun moved, Charlie slept whilst I watched our black friend, and thenI did the same. On arrival at camp we found that our companions had beenso successful in "soak-sucking, " i. E. , baling and scraping up themiserable trickle of water as it soaks into the "caisson, " that bysunset we were able to give the camels eight gallons each, and twogallons extra to Misery, who was showing signs of a rapid recovery. Luckily there was a little patch of dry herbage not far from the well, and a few acacias over the ridge. All the next day we were occupied in"soak-sucking, " and Warri went back for Misery's saddle, which had beenthrown off. I took the opportunity of writing up my diary--anything but apleasant job, for shade there was none, except in a reclining positionunder our solitary ti-tree bush. The native's close proximity and theswarm of flies, made the task quite hateful, for under the mostfavourable conditions there are few things I dislike more than writing. On September 28th I chronicled a most remarkable fact, viz. , that the twocamels Satan and Redleap had had no more than thirteen gallons of waterin the preceding thirty-eight days--a wonderful exhibition of enduranceand pluck in this burning weather and barren country. It came about inthis way:--

August 22nd. At Woodhouse Lagoon they had a full drink in the morning. 

August 29th. At Warri Well, where the parakeelia grew, two gallons in theevening. 

September 8th. At Patience Well they were the last to be watered, eightgallons in the evening. 

September 18th. At Family Well, parakeelia again, three gallons at night. 

September 28th. Half a drink. 

Therefore between the 22nd of August and the 28th of September they hadno more than thirteen gallons. 

Satan had more travelling, though carrying a less load, than any of therest, being used for scouting and finding natives. 

On the evening of the 29th I left my work down the well to take someobservations; unluckily I was just too late for the stars I wanted, andhad to wait up for some long time. We had divided the night into fiveshifts for baling; when my turn came my companions did not wake me, butdid my shift for me. I am sure I appreciated their kindly thought, andfelt thankful indeed, and not for the first time, that I had managed tochoose such excellent mates--for I had long realised that without peaceand unanimity in such a party, our chances of getting through the desertwould be greatly minimised. 

I found our position to be lat. 21 degrees 49 minutes, long. 126 degrees33 minutes. 

By morning we had given the camels another five gallons apiece and hadsome to go on with in our tanks, having, by working for two days andthree nights, scraped together 140 gallons in all. On the 30th wetravelled again Westwards, though making some Northerly progress towardsthe smoke which Charlie and I had located. We had a long talk about ourmethods of travelling, and Charlie thought that I was inclined to sparethe camels at the expense of ourselves. We travelled all day without abreak so that they should have the longer to look for feed at night, thenwe always hunted for tracks and water on foot, and when we found water, gave it to the camels before looking after our own wants, and he thoughtwe might do longer stages straight ahead so long as we had a native. Iheld, and I think the outcome of the journey proved me correct, that ourown well-being was a secondary consideration to that of our animals, forwithout them we should be lost. "Slow but sure" was my motto. 

Though anxious to make as much northing as possible I did not feeljustified in passing by almost certain water for the sake of a few hours. I felt always that we might come into an even more waterless regionahead, and perhaps be unable to find any natives. Some twelve milesbrought us to the well--the smoke had been beyond it--and a more wretchedspot I never saw. Absolutely barren, even of spinifex, were the highridges of sand between which was the well--merely a small, round hole, with no signs of moisture or plant life about it, not a tree "withincooee. " We had to go far to collect enough wood for a fire, and cut twosticks with which to rig up a fly to shade us from the sun--a purelyimaginary shade, for light duck is of little use against the power ofsuch a burning sun; but even the shadow cast by the fly gave anappearance of comfort. 

At this camp we made two new caissons, as our old tin-lined boxes were nolonger strong enough. Amongst our gear were two galvanised-iron boxes, made to order, with lids which completely covered the boxes and were heldon by straps. "Concertina-made boxes" they were called by thetinsmith--a name which gave rise to a curious misstatement in a Perthpaper which published a letter I wrote to Sir John Forrest. The letterread: ". . . We made boxes out of concertinas"! I fear any who readthis must have thought me fairly good at "romancing. " I had them madethat shape so that they might be filled to nearly double the capacity ofthe boxes and still have serviceable lids. I had hoped to have filledthem with specimens of plants and birds. Unfortunately we had neither thetime to, nor the opportunity of making any such collection, though wemight easily have filled them with specimens of the desert house-flywhich swarm at every well! By sawing off the ends of these lids we hadtwo useful boxes, with neither top nor bottom, and by screwing them onto a framework of wood we manufactured a most useful caisson, 2 feet deepby 1 1/2 long and 1 foot wide. By forcing this into the sand in the welland digging out the sand contained in it, and then patiently waiting witha pannikin for the small trickle of water creeping in from between theoutside of the caisson and the sides of the rock-hole, then again forcingthe box lower, and clearing out the sand above, now drained of itsmoisture, and repeating the baling process, we were enabled to drain thewell of almost every drop it contained. On first acquaintance with thesewells a novice's impulse would be to dig out the sand until the bottomwas reached; but as the sand holds the water he would find himself with anicely cleared hole, but cleared of sand and water alike. Therefore, without some such makeshift as that already described one would be in themost unsatisfactory position of knowing that water existed, and yet ofbeing unable to obtain any but a very small supply. The natives usecomparatively little water, since it is only for drinking purposes, washing being unknown, and as the water sinks in the well the sand isscooped out gradually and carefully and plastered round the sides of thehole, so preventing the inrush of sand. Very often when they require adrink they bend down and suck up the water through a bunch of grass, which prevents the sand from getting into the mouth. 

The water from the wells was always bad, and on first being brought tothe surface was hardly fit to use; the camels would not, unless reallydry, drink it until it had been exposed in our canvas troughs to the airfor some time. Lying stagnant perhaps for a year or more, protected bythe sand, it is not to be wondered at that its flavour is not of thebest. Digging in the sand discloses all sorts of odds and ends that couldnot fail to contaminate the water. It contains also--derived, I suppose, from the sandstone--a certain amount of iron, which I believe to haveacted as a sort of tonic to us. A many-tinted, bluish scum always floatedon the surface and tea made with it turned as black as ink--neverthelessit was quite good drinking. 

October 1st and 2nd we spent at the well, working as above described, whilst Warri tended the camels a couple of miles away on a patch of weedshe discovered. This weed which I have mentioned is the only availablefeed in this region--without it the camels must have starved long since. The plant somewhat resembles a thistle, but has a small blue flower, andwhen fresh forms the best feed. So far, however, we had only seen it dryand shrivelled. It is known to science as TRICHODESMA ZEYLANICUM. Thiscamp was the scene of a vicious onslaught on Charlie, made by the buck, whilst away looking for the plant from which to make a chewing-ball. Taking Charlie unawares he nearly accomplished his escape. Charlie, as ithappened, was the very worst to try such tricks on, for hewas the strongest of the party, and a very powerful man. During thestruggle the black-fellow grabbed Charlie's revolver pouch, and somehowthe revolver exploded, the bullet narrowly missing them both. It had theuseful effect of attracting our attention, and we were in time to saveCharlie some nasty wounds, as the buck was using his powerful jaws togreat advantage. Of course we could not blame him for trying toescape--that was only natural--but it made us more cautious in thefuture. Excepting the inconvenience of being unable to get away, hehad nothing to complain of, and had the advantage of plenty to eatand drink without the trouble of looking for it. The manufacture ofthe "quid" mentioned above is interesting. Cleaning and smoothing aplace in the sand, a small branch from a silvery-leafed ti-tree(a grevillea, I think), is set alight and held up; from it as itburns a light, white, very fine ash falls on to the prepared ground. Nowthe stems of a small plant already chewed are mixed with the ashes. Thecompound so formed is squeezed and pressed and kneaded into a small, oval-shaped ball, of sticky and stringy consistency. The ball when in useis chewed and sucked but not swallowed, and is passed round from mouth tomouth; when not in use it is placed behind the ear, where it is carried. Nearly every tribe we saw had such "quids. " No doubt they derive somesustenance from them. Sir John preferred his "chew" to any food we gavehim; though he did not care about tobacco. 

For the next two days the sand-ridges seemed to vie with each other intheir height and steepness, between them there was hardly any flat groundat all; mile after mile we travelled, up one and down and over the nextwithout ceasing. First came the native and his guard, then in a long, broken line the string of camels. What a labour it was! Often each camelhad to be urged in turn over the ridge whilst those behind werecontinually breaking their nose-lines to lie down or hurry off to thenearest shade, however scanty, and there await the blows and exhortationsof their driver; those which remained in their places were continuallylifting their feet, for they could not stay still on the burning sand;then their packs were always being jolted about and thrown out of place, necessitating reloading, and when at last we had them again in line thewhole performance had to be repeated a few ridges further on. 

Sometimes our caravan would cover half a mile or more, the guide andguardian waiting far in advance whilst the broken line was rejoined andthe stragglers brought in, and away far behind the last camel wouldappear alone, with his nose-line dangling and tripping him up. UsuallyBilly brought up the rear--nothing would induce him to follow closebehind; a jerk of his head and away went the nose-line, and Billy wasleft behind to follow when so inclined. The heat was really tremendous. It can be fairly sultry around Coolgardie, but never before have Iexperienced such scorching heat; the sun rose like a ball of fire, and intwo hours' time had as great power as at any period during the day. Howone prayed for it to set, and how thankful one was when in due course itdid so, sinking below the horizon as suddenly as it had risen!

I am not sure which felt the heat most, poor little Val or the buck. He, curiously enough, seemed more affected by it than we were. At night hedrank more than we did, and then was not satisfied. Sometimes whenwaiting on ahead he used to squat down and scoop out a hole in the groundto reach the cool sand beneath; with this he would anoint himself. Sometimes he would make a mixture of sand and urine, with which he wouldsmear his head or body. Poor Val was in a pitiable state; the soles ofher paws were worn off by the hot sand; it was worse or as bad for her tobe knocked about on the top of one of the loads, and although by carefuljudgment she could often trot along in the shade of one of the camels, she was as near going mad as I imagine it possible for a dog to go. Poorlittle thing! She used to yell and howl most agonisingly, with her eyesstaring and tongue hanging. We had, of course, to pack her on a camelwhen her feet gave out, and by applying vaseline alleviated her pain. 

Our guide took us to two dry wells and watched our disgust with evidentsatisfaction, and I had to resort to the unfailing argument of allowinghim no water at all. He pleaded hard by sounds and gesture and no doubtsuffered to some extent, but all was treated as if unnoticed by us. Thirst is a terrible thing; it is also a great quickener of the wits, andthe result of this harsh treatment, which reduced the poor buck to tears(a most uncommon thing amongst natives), was that before very long wewere enabled to unload and make camp in one of the most charming littlespots I have ever seen. A veritable oasis, though diminutive in size; butnot so in importance, for without its life-giving aid it is hard to sayhow things would have gone with us. The weather, as I have said, wasscorching, the country destitute of feed, almost waterless, most toilsometo cross, and our camels were worn to skeletons from starvation andincessant work, and had they not been fine specimens of an exceptionallyfine breed must have long since succumbed. Surely this is one of thenoblest of creatures and most marvellous works of the Creator!

Brave, dumb heroes, with what patience and undaunted courage do theystruggle on with their heavy loads, carrying what no other animal couldcarry in country where no other could live, never complaining or givingin until they drop from sheer exhaustion! I think there are few animalsendowed with more good qualities than the much-abused camel--abused notonly by the ignorant, which is excusable, but by travellers and writerswho should know better. Patience, perseverance, intelligence, docility, and good temper under the most trying conditions, stand out pre-eminentlyamongst his virtues. Not that all camels are perfect--some are vicious andbad tempered; so far as my experience goes these are the exceptions. Somefew are vicious naturally, but the majority of bad-tempered camels aremade so by ill-treatment. If a camel is constantly bullied, he willpatiently wait his chance and take his revenge--and pick the right mantoo. "Vice or bad temper, " says the indignant victim; "Intelligence, "say I. In matters of loading and saddling, ignorance causes greatsuffering to camels. I can imagine few things more uncomfortable thanhaving to carry 150 pounds on one side of the saddle and perhaps 250pounds on the other, and yet if the poor beast lies down and complains, in nine cases out of ten his intelligent master will beat himunmercifully as a useless brute! Nearly every sore back amongst a mob ofcamels is the result of carelessness. It is hard to avoid, I am wellaware, but it can be done; and I speak as an authority, for during ourjourney to Kimberley and the journey back again, over such country as Ihave endeavoured faithfully to describe, there were only two cases ofcamels with sore backs--one was Billy, who had an improperly healed woundwhen we started, which, however, we soon cured; the other Stoddy, on thereturn journey. This state of affairs was not brought about except bybestowing great care and attention on the saddles, which we werecontinually altering, as they were worn out of shape, or as the camelsbecame thinner--and thin they were, poor things, tucked up likegreyhounds! A few days' rest and feed, fortunately soon puts a camelright, and such they could have at the little oasis we had reached onOctober 5th. In the centre of it lay a splendid little spring, in manyways the most remarkable feature we had encountered, and therefore Ichristened it after one whose love and helpful sympathy in all my work, has given me strength and courage--my sister Helena. 

CHAPTER XII

HELENA SPRING

"My native valley hath a thousand springs, but not to one of them shall Iattach hereafter, such precious recollections as to this solitary fount, which bestows its liquid treasures where they are not only delightful, but nearly indispensable. "

So spake Sir Kenneth of Scotland in "The Talisman. "

Surely the Christian knight, dragging his way across the sands ofPalestine, was not more pleased to reach the "Diamond of the Desert"than we were to light upon this charming little oasis, hidden away in thedreary solitude of the surrounding sandhills; the one spot of green onwhich one's eyes may rest with pleasure in all this naked wilderness. Atthe bottom of a hollow enclosed between two sand-ridges is a smallsurface outcrop of limestone of similar character to that in whichEmpress Spring is situated. In this is a little basin, nearly circular, about 2 feet 6 inches in diameter and 3 feet deep, with a capacity ofabout seventy gallons. This is the spring, fed at the bottom of the basinfrom some subterranean source by a narrow tunnel in the rock, a naturaldrain, not six inches in diameter. Through this passage, from the West, the water rises, filling the rocky basin, and evidently at some seasonsbubbling over and filling the clay-pan which abuts on it on the Westernside. On the East side of the spring is an open space of sand;surrounding it and the clay-pan is a luxuriant growth of pig-face--afinger-like plant, soft, squashy, and full of moisture, but salt; it iscommonly seen on the margin of salt-lakes. Beyond the pig-face, tussocksof grass and buck-bush, beyond that again a mass of ti-tree scrubextending to the foot of the sandhills. On the inner slopes of these canbe seen the crowning glory of the spot viz. , an abundance of splendidgreen thistle (TRICHODESMA ZEYLANICUM), tall and juicy, growing amongstacacia and other bushes. Outside this, beyond this area of perhaps fourhundred yards in diameter, stretching away to the horizon, ridge uponridge of desolate sand, black and begrimed by the ashes of recentlyburnt spinifex, from which the charred stumps of occasional gum treespoint branchless to the sky. What chance of finding such a place withoutthe help of those natives to whom alone its existence was known?

The winds and storms of past years had filled in the basin with sand andleaves, and except for the extraordinary freshness and abundance ofvegetation around it, its peculiar situation, and the absence of theusual accompaniments to rock-holes, such as heaps of sticks and stoneswhich, having served their purpose of protecting the water fromevaporation, have been removed and thrown aside by the natives, there wasnothing at first sight to lead one to suppose that any further supplyexisted than was visible in this natural reservoir. This small amountsoon vanished down the throats of the thirsty camels; it was then that, having cleared out the sand and leaves, we discovered the small passagethrough which the spring rises. By continual baling until all the camelswere satisfied (and of this splendid spring water they drank a more thanordinary amount) we kept the water back to the mouth of the passage. Within an hour or so of the watering of the last camel, the hole wasagain full to the brim, of the most crystal-clear water. How we revelledin it! What baths we had--the first since we left Woodhouse Lagoon overseven weeks back! What a joy this was, those only can understand who, like us, have been for weeks with no better wash than a mouthful of watersquirted into the hands and so rubbed over the face. Whenever possibleGodfrey, who made our damper (bread), washed his hands in the corner of adish, which was used by each in turn afterwards--and at our work in thewells, a certain amount of dirt was washed off. But to splash about withan unlimited number of buckets of water ready to hand, to be got by thesimple dipping of a billy-can--this was joy indeed! This luxury weenjoyed from October 5th to October 10th, and every day the camels werebrought to water, and with this and the green feed visibly fattenedbefore our eyes. 

So soon as we had proved the supply of our new watering-place, I hadintended giving our guide his liberty. However, he forestalled this bycleverly making his escape. For want of a tree, his chain had beensecured to the iron ring of a heavy pack-bag. His food and water weregiven him in empty meat-tins. With the sharp edge of one of these he hadworked so industriously during the night that by morning he had a neatlittle circle of leather cut out of the bag round the ring. 

With a blanket on which he had been lying, he covered his cunning trickand awaited his opportunity. It soon came; when our attention was fixedon the building of a shade, and, in broad daylight, he sneaked away fromus without a sign or sound, taking with him some three feet of lightchain on his ankle. What a hero he must be thought by hisfellow-tribesmen! and doubtless that chain, which he could easily breakon a stone with an iron tomahawk, will be treasured for many years tocome. Had he not been in such a hurry he would have returned to hisfamily laden with presents, for we had set aside several articlesdesigned for him. 

Our camp was specially built to protect us from the flies, and consistedof a framework of ti-tree poles and branches, roofed with grass andpig-face; under this we slung our mosquito-nets and enjoyed perfectpeace. A few days in camp are by no means idle ones, for numerous are thejobs to be done--washing and mending clothes, patching up boots and hats, hair cutting, diary writing, plotting our course, arranging photographplates (the majority of which were, alas! spoilt by the heat), mending acamera cracked by the sun, making hobble-straps, mending and stuffingsaddles, rearranging packs cleaning firearms, and other like occupations. The heat was extreme; too great for my little thermometer whichregistered up to 140 (degrees) F. , and intensified by hot winds and"Willy-Willies" (sometimes of great violence), which greatly endangeredour camp. Godfrey excelled himself in the cooking department, and ourusual diet of "tinned dog" was agreeably varied by small pigeons, whichcame in numbers to drink--pretty little slate-grey birds with tufts ontheir heads, common enough in Australia. Of these we shot over fifty, and, as well, a few of the larger bronzewing pigeons. The tufted birds come towater just after daylight and just before sundown, and so are more easilyshot than the bronzewing. Throughout the day, galahs, wee-jugglers, parakeets, diamond-sparrows, and an occasional hawk or crow, came to thespring, evidently a favourite resort. Curiously enough, but few nativecamps were to be seen, nor is this the first time that I have noticed thatthe best waters are least used. The Australian aboriginal is not usuallycredited with much thought for the morrow. These desert people, however, have some provident habits, for first the small native wells are used, andonly when these are exhausted are the more permanent waters resorted to. As an instance of their powers of following a "spoor, " it may bementioned that on several occasions our captive suddenly darted off at atangent with eyes to ground, and then started digging his heel in the sandto find where a lizard or iguana was that he had tracked to his hole. Warri, amongst his other accomplishments, was most useful as a retrieverof any wounded pigeon; he would hunt about until he spotted a fresh track, and before long had captured the bird. Any one who has noticed the numberof hen-tracks in a poultry yard will appreciate this delicate performance. Warri, I am sure, would have been invaluable to Sherlock Holmes. 

Pleasant as our camp was we could not stay too long, for we still had aconsiderable tract of unknown country before us. As the result ofnumerous observations I make the position of Helena Spring to be lat. 21degrees, 20 minutes 30 seconds South, and (by dead reckoning) long. 126degrees 20 minutes East. 

From the native I extracted the following words, which I considerreliable:

 English. Aboriginal. 

 Eagle Hawk Gunderu Gum tree Waaldi Sand Nuah Spinifex Godadyuda, * Fire or Smoke Warru * Water Gabbi * Dog Pappa

[* The same as used by natives at Empress Spring. ]

CHAPTER XIII

FROM HELENA SPRING TO THE SOUTHESK TABLELANDS. 

On October 11th we reluctantly left the "Diamond of the Desert" behindus, travelling in a N. E. By N. Direction over the interminablesand-ridges, crossing a greater extent of burnt country than we had yetseen, and finally camping on the top of a high ridge so as to catch anybreeze that the night might favour us with. 

We made a long march that day of eighteen miles a very creditable stagein such peculiarly configurated country. The camels had so benefited bytheir rest and feed that it made little difference to them that they hadnothing to eat that night; they were well content to lie round the campall night and chew the cud. I have often noticed how much camels likesociety; under favourable conditions--that is to say when travelling ingood camel-country like the Southern goldfields--they will feed for anhour or so before dark, then slowly make their way with clatteringhobble-chains and clanging bells back to the camp-fire, and there, withmany grunts of satisfaction, lie peacefully until just before daylight, when they go off for another feed. On moonlight nights they like to roamabout and pick choice morsels of bush on and off until daylight. In thiswaste corner of the earth where now we battled our way, the poor bruteswandered aimlessly about, now trying a mouthful of sharp spinifex and nowthe leaves of a eucalyptus; turning from these in disgust, a little patchof weed might be discovered by one lucky camel; no sooner would he hurrytowards it than the others would notice it, and then a great scrambleensued and the weakest went without--though I have seen the strong helpthe weak, as in the case of Czar, who, with his powerful jaws, would breakdown branches for Misery, then quite young and without the requisiteteeth. How fine they look with their long necks stretched upwards with theheads thrown back and the sensitive lips extended to catch some extrafresh bunch of leaves! How cunningly they go to work to break a branchthat is out of reach; first the lowest leaf is gently taken in the lipsand pulled down until the mouth can catch hold of some hanging twig--alongthis it is worked, and so from twig to branch, a greater strain beingexerted as the branches increase in size, until finally the main limb ofthe branch is seized, and bent and twisted until broken. Often they tryfor one branch time after time, for having set their minds on a particularmorsel, nothing will satisfy them until they have it. 

No such scene could be watched from our camp on the ridge. But still wehad something out of the common to look upon in the shape of hills ahead, and my hopes were high that we should soon see the last of the desert. Away to the North high points and bold headlands stood out black and clearabove the sea of sand, tablelands and square-edged hills with some highpeaks rising from them--the most imposing hills we had seen since passingMount Burgess, near Coolgardie. From this point little could be determinedas to their character even with glasses, for they were, as we afterwardsfound, over thirty miles distant. 

Between them and our camp numerous low detached, table-top hills andconical mounds could be seen--none of any size, but remarkable in shapeand appearance. These I named the Forebank Hills, after a hill nearmy home. These hills gave promise of better country, and, choosing aprominent headland, I altered our course towards it the followingmorning. We had not been travelling long before a smoke rose quiteclose to us, and we had another opportunity of seeing native huntingoperations without being seen ourselves. A fine upstanding buck wasdodging about amongst the blazing spinifex and was too engrossed tonotice us; presently his occupation led him over the ridge and we saw himno more. From the earliness of the hour--for the smokes as a rule do notrise before 9 a. M. --it was clear that he could not have come far, so, picking up his tracks, we followed them back to his camp. Though we werenot in great want of water, I considered it always advisable to let nochance of getting some slip by, since one never can tell how long thenext may be in coming. 

The tracks led us along the foot of one ridge; along the next, somethree hundred yards distant, the ladies of the tribe could be seenmarching along, laughing and chattering, and occasionally giving forththe peculiar shrill yell which only the gins can produce. It isimpossible to describe a noise in writing, but the sound is not unlike arather shrill siren, and the word shouted is a long-drawn "Yu-u-u. " Thereis no mistaking the women's voices, the men's cry is somewhat deeper. Both are rather weird sounds, more especially when heard in thick scrubwhere one can see no natives, though one hears them all round. In thespinifex they were easily seen, and to their cry an answering yell cameover the ridge and other women and children appeared. Presently they sawour caravan, and the "Yu-u-u" became fainter and fainter as the groupscattered in all directions, and was lost to view. At the end of thetracks we found a camp, and in it the only attempt at a roofed shelterthat we saw in the desert, and this merely a few branches leant against asmall tree. The camp-fire had spread and burnt the spinifex close by, which gave the spot anything but an inviting appearance. 

Under the shelter were huddled together, asleep, two gins and a youngman. I have never seen more intense astonishment expressed in any one'sface than that shown by these three when we roused them. All in their waywere peculiar and deserving of description. The young gin was by no meansuncomely; well-shaped and healthy-looking, with a skin black and shiningas a well smoked meerschaum, with beautiful teeth which were shown off toadvantage by an extensive smile, when she found that we had no murderousintentions. The other gin was the most repulsive object I have everseen--like a hideous toad with wrinkled, baggy skin, with legs and arms sothin as to be no more than skin stretched tight over very meagreshinbones; and the face of this wretched being was a mass of festeringwounds, on which no one could look without pity and horror. The man, too, was remarkable; an exceedingly smart young buck with an air ofirresponsibility about him that suggested madness--a suspicion amplyconfirmed by his subsequent behaviour. His decorations added to his queerappearance; scarred by deep gashes on chest and arms, his body wasdaubed with red ochre, and his ribs picked out with white; on his head akind of chignon formed of grass, hair, and string held his matted locksin place, like a bird's nest on his crown; he had neither beard norwhiskers, and was not blessed with any article of clothing whatever. 

He showed us their well, which was nearly dry, and then volunteered tolead us to others; and away he went, swaggering along and clicking histongue in great glee, occasionally breaking out into shrieks of laughter. When we arrived at one dry rock-hole and then another, it dawned upon mewhat the secret joke had been that so amused our friend; and I determinedthat he should be of some use to us before we parted company. 

Of these dry rock-holes, one would, after rain, hold a fair amount ofwater, and is situated on the shoulder between two low table-tops. To theSouth, about two miles distant, are three conspicuous conical hills, close together, and about the same distance to the North-West a hill thatat once calls to mind an old fort or castle. On camping, our nativefriend became a most intolerable nuisance, and proved himself a cunningwrestler, suddenly bending down and diving between Breaden's legs, whichhe seized at the ankle, nearly succeeding in throwing him to the ground. With a chain formed of spare hobbles held together by wire, we tetheredhim to a tree, scraped out a nest in the sand for him to sleep in, andlit a fire to cheer him. There he lay quiet until, on making signs thathe was thirsty, one of us went to give him his food and water, when hedarted at his benefactor and fought most viciously. After that, allthrough the night, at intervals, he was yelling and dancing, now uprightand now on hands and knees circling his tree and barking like a dog, nowtearing his headgear and stamping it in the sand, threatening us withhands raised, and finally subsiding into his sandy nest, crying andwhining most piteously. It was an act of some danger to unloose him inthe morning, but before long he was laughing away as heartily as before. There is no doubt he was as mad as could be. During the day's march hewas up to all kinds of pranks, going through all sorts of antics, idiotic, sorrowful, angry, and vulgar in turn. The space between theridges was greater now, and on them were numerous pointed ant-hillssome two or three feet high. One favourite trick of this lunaticwas to rush towards one of these, and sit perched on the top withhis knees up and feet resting on the side of the heap, a mostuncomfortable position. Another dodge he tried with indifferent successwas that of throwing himself under a camel as he passed, with the object, I suppose, of diving out on the other side. The camel, however, did notunderstand the game and kicked him severely. He was a most extraordinaryperson, and indeed I can understand any one going mad in this drearyregion; and to think that these black folk have never known anythingdifferent!

I could enumerate a score of strange tricks that our friend exhibited. What surprised me most was to see him make use, in unmistakablepantomime, of a vulgar expression that I thought was only known toEnglish schoolboys!

Between the Forebank Hills and the tablelands we were now approaching isan open plain of spinifex some ten miles wide, bounded on North and Southby sand-ridges. From these in the morning the long line of brokentablelands could be seen ahead of us, and running for a considerabledistance to the eastward. The highest point of those more immediately toour front I named Mount Fothringham, after my cousin. The headland forwhich we were steering was too far off to be reached that night, so wecamped on a ridge, and during the night noticed a small fire in the hillsahead. It could only be a camp-fire of some natives, so, noting itsdirection, and being unable to see anything further, we retired to rest. 

The next morning, with the help of the glasses, we could see severalblack figures moving about on the sloping foot of the cliffs, andtherefore steered in their direction. Our mad friend had to beaccommodated on the top of a camel, as he refused to walk or move, and Iwished to leave him with friends, or at any rate with fellow-countrymen, though we no longer required his services as guide, in whichcapacity he had been singularly useless. Five miles brought us to thehills, and close on to the natives' camp whose fire we had seen, beforethey discovered us; when they did so they fled, seven or eight of them, and hid in caves in the sandstone. We had now been only four days sincethe last water, but the weather was so hot, feed so scarce, and so muchground burnt and dusty, that it was time we gave the camels another drinkif we wished to keep them in any sort of condition. From the native campa few tracks led round a corner of rock; these I followed, with thecamels coming behind, and soon saw two small native wells sunk in thesand and debris, held in a cleft in the rock. Nothing but bare rock roseall round, and on this we made camp, turning the camels out at the footof the cliffs where a few bushes grew. 

Godfrey and Warri meanwhile had followed the blacks into the caves, andnow returned with two of the finest men I have seen in the interior. One, a boy, apparently about eighteen years old, splendidly formed andstrongly built, standing nearly six feet high; the other a man of matureyears, not so tall but very broad and well-made. The boy had no hair onhis face, the man a short beard and moustaches, and both had a far bettercast of features than any I have seen further south. Their skin, too, instead of being black, was a shining reddish-brown colour; this wasperhaps produced by red ochre and grease rubbed in, but in any case itgave them a finer appearance. Both were quite without clothing orornament, nor did I notice any of the usual scars upon their bodies;their well-fed frames made us hope that a change in the country was closeat hand. 

These natives showed no fear or surprise when once in the camp, and, examining our packs and saddles, sat "jabbering" away quite contented, until Breaden struck a match to light his pipe. This so alarmed them thatthey bolted. We did not attempt to stop the boy, but detained the man, asI wished for further information about waters, and was also anxious tostudy his habits. He had evidently been in touch with blacks from settledparts, for he knew the words, "white-fella" and "womany, " and hadcertainly heard of a rifle, for on my picking one up and holding ittowards him he trembled with fear, and it was some time before hisconfidence in us was restored. He really was a most intelligent man, bothamusing and interesting, and by signs and pantomime, repeated over andover again until he saw that we guessed his meaning, he told us manythings. Plenty of women, old and young, were camped in one direction, andwere specially worth a visit; he knew of several watering-places, in oneof which we could bathe and stand waist-deep. So I made a compact that assoon as he showed us this wonderful "Yowie" (his word for water) heshould go free. He seemed perfectly to understand this. Our mad friend hehardly deigned to notice, and pointed at him in a most contemptuous way. 

Now that he, the lunatic, was free to go where he liked, nothing wouldinduce him to leave us--he would start to go, and after a few pacesreturn and take up a crouching position close to the mouth of the wellwhere we were working, and as each bucketful of mud or moist sand washauled to the surface he eagerly watched it being emptied, and thenproceeded to cover himself with its contents, until at last he was hardlydistinguishable from a pyramid of mud--and a stranger object I never saw!Towards dusk he slunk off and sat on a rock below the cliffs, where heate the food we had given him; and for all I know he may be there yet. 

Work was carried on all night, which was divided as usual into shifts, and this I have no doubt saved us from attack. Before sunset we had seenseveral bucks sneaking about the rocks, and during the night they cameround us and held a whispered conversation with their fellow in our camp. Between them a sort of telegraphy seemed to be going on by tapping stoneson the rocks. They may have been merely showing their position in thedarkness, or it is possible that they have a "Morse code" of their own. I was on shift when they came, and as the well wanted baling only everytwenty minutes, I was lying awake and watching the whole performance, andcould now and then see a shadowy figure in the darkness. As soon as Irose to work, our buck lay down and snored heavily, and his friends ofcourse were silent. I awoke Breaden on my way, as it would have been fartoo much in their favour should the blacks have attacked us and found medown the well and the rest of the party asleep. They were quite right inwishing to rescue their friend, since they could not tell what his fatewas to be, but we could not risk a wounded companion or possibly worse, and lay watching for the remainder of the night. Evidently they wereinclined to take no risks either, for they left us in peace. 

The wells, situated as they are in the bed of a rocky gully, would afterrain hold plenty of water, though we extracted no more than thirty-fivegallons. Their position is lat. 20 degrees 46 minutes, long. 126 degrees23 minutes. 

From the rocks above the wells the tablelands to the East have quite agrand appearance, running in a curve with an abrupt cliff on the Westernside, and many conical and peaked hills rising from their summit. Thesetablelands, which in a broken line were seen by us to extend Northwardsfor over forty miles, and certainly extend Eastwards for twenty miles andpossibly a great deal further, are of sandstone. Looking Westwards, a fewdetached blocks may be seen, but we seemed to have struck the Westernlimit of these hills. I have named them the Southesk Tablelands, after myfather. Between the curved line of cliffs and the wells are severalisolated blocks. Seven and a half miles to the Westward a remarkableheadland (Point Massie) can be seen at the Northern end of a detachedtableland. Again to the West, one mile, at the head of a deep littlerocky gorge, whose entrance is guarded by a large fig tree, is a veryfine rock-hole. This was the promised water, and our native friend wasfree to return to his family; he was greatly pleased at the bargain beingcarried out, and had evidently not expected it. Possibly what he hasheard of the white-fella is not much to his credit! The fig tree affordeda splendid shade from the burning sun, and in a recess in the rock closeby we could sit in comparative coolness. Here the native artist had beenat work, his favourite subject being snakes and concentric rings. 

A steep gorge, not very easy for camels to pass along, led up to therock-hole, which lies under a sheltering projection of rock. From therock above a good view is obtained; sand-ridges to the West, to the Northand East tablelands. Most noticeable are Mounts Elgin, Romilly, andStewart, bearing from here 346 degrees, 4 degrees, 16 degreesrespectively. These hills are named after three of my brothers-in-law. They are of the usual form--that is to say, flat-topped with steepsides--Mount Elgin especially appearing like an enormous squared blockabove the horizon. To the South-East of Mount Stewart are two smallertable-tops close together. 

As I walked over the rocks I noticed numerous wallabies, of which Godfreyshot several later; they were excellent eating, not unlike rabbit. Leaving the rock-hole, we steered for Mount Romilly, first following downthe little creek from the gorge until it ran out into the sand in a clumpof bloodwoods. Then crossing a plain where some grass grew as well asspinifex, we came again into sand-ridges, then another plain, then alarge, dry clay-pan West of Mount Stewart, then more ridges up to thefoot of Mount Romilly. It was here that we must have crossed the route ofColonel Warburton in 1873, though at the time I could not quite make outthe relative positions of our two routes on the map. 

Colonel Warburton, travelling from East to West, would be more or lessalways between two ridges of sand, and his view would therefore be verylimited, and this would account for his not having marked hills on hischart, which are as large as any in the far interior of the Colony. Inhis journal, under date of September 2nd, we read: ". . . There arehills in sight; those towards the North look high and hopeful, but theyare quite out of our course. Other detached, broken hills lie to theWest, so our intention is to go towards them. " Then, on September 3rd:"N. W. By W. To a sandstone hill" (probably Mount Romilly). "North of usthere is a rather good-looking range running East and West with a hopefulbluff at its Western end" (probably Twin Head). From the top of MountRomilly a very prominent headland can be seen bearing 7 degrees, andbeyond it two others so exactly similar in shape and size that we calledthem the Twins. For these we steered over the usual sand-ridges and smallplains, on which a tree (VENTILAGO VIMINALIS) new to us was noticed;here, too, was growing the HIBISCUS STURTII, whose pretty flowersreminded us that there were some things in the country nice to look upon. 

Near the foot of the second headland we made camp. Leaving Charlie behind, the rest of us set out in different directions to explore the hills. There are four distinct headlands jutting out from the tableland, which extends for many miles to the Eastward and in a broken lineto the Southward, the face of the cliffs on the Western shore, so tospeak, being indented with many bays and gulfs, and, to complete thesimile, the waves of sand break upon the cliffs, while in the bays andgulfs there is smooth water--that is to say, flat sand. Grass and otherherbage and bushes grow in a narrow belt around the foot of the cliffs, but everywhere else is spinifex. 

The hills present a most desolate appearance, though somewhat remarkable;sheer cliffs stand on steep slopes of broken slabs and boulders ofsandstone, reminding one of a quarry dump; from the flat summit of thecliffs rise conical peaks and round hills of most peculiar shape. Thewhole is covered with spinifex, a plant which seems to thrive in any kindof soil; this rock-spinifex, I noticed, contains much more resinousmatter than the sand-spinifex, every spine being covered with a stickyjuice. From our camp I walked up the valley between the first and secondhead, and, ascending the latter, which is crowned with cliffs some thirtyfeet high, sat down and examined the hills with my glasses. Two blackobjects moving about caught my eye, and as they approached I saw them tobe two fine bucks decked out in most extravagant manner. From my point ofvantage some three hundred feet above them, I could watch them, myselfunseen. Each carried a sheaf of spears, woommera, and shield, and intheir girdle of string a number of short throwing-sticks. Round theirwaists were hanging sporrans formed from tufts of hair, probably similarto those we found at Family Well that were made from the tufts from theends of bandicoots' tails; their bodies were painted in fantasticpatterns with white. Their hair was arranged in a bunch on the top oftheir heads, and in it were stuck bunches of emu feathers. Seen in thosebarren, dull-red hills, they looked strange and almost fiendish. Theywere evidently going to pay a visit to some neighbours either to holdfestival or to fight--probably the latter. 

When almost directly below they looked up and saw me; I remained quitestill, watching all the time through the glasses. After the firstsurprise they held a hurried consultation and then fled; then anotherconsultation, and back they came again, this time very warlike. Withshouts and grunts they danced round in a circle, shaking their spears atme, and digging them into the ground, as much as to say, "That is whatwe would do to you if we could!" I rose from my hiding place andstarted to go down towards them, when they again retired, dancingand spear-waving at intervals. At the end of the valley, that is thethird valley, there is a sheer cliff to a plateau running back to thefoot of some round hills; across this plateau they ran until, on comingto some thick bushes, they hid, hoping, I have no doubt, to take meunawares. However, I was not their prospective victim, for no sooner hadthey planted themselves than I saw Godfrey, all unconscious, saunteringalong towards them. 

The whole scene was so clear to me from my lofty position that itslaughable side could not help striking me, but this did not prevent myforestalling the blacks' murderous designs by a shot from my rifle, whichwas sufficiently well aimed to scare the bucks and attract Godfrey'sattention. As soon as possible I joined him and explained my seeminglystrange action. We tracked up the natives, and found they had beenfollowing a regular pad, which before long led us to a fine big rock-holein the bed of a deep and rocky gully. A great flight of crows circlingabout a little distance off, made us sure that another pool existed;following down the first gully and turning to the left up another, deeperand broader, we found our surmise had been correct. Before us, at thefoot of an overhanging rock, was a beautiful clear pool. What a glorioussight! We wasted no time in admiring it from a distance, and each in turnplunged into the cool water, whilst the other kept watch on the rocksabove. Sheltered as it was from the sun, except for a short time duringthe day, this pool was as ice compared to the blazing, broiling heatoverhead, and was indeed a luxury. By the side of the pool, under theoverhanging rock, some natives had been camped, probably our friends thewarriors; the ashes were still hot, and scattered about were the remainsof a meal, feathers and bones of hawks and crows. Above the overhangingrock, in the middle of the gully, is a small rock-hole with mostperfectly smooth sides, so situated that rain water running down thegully would first fill the rock-hole, and, overflowing, would fall sometwenty feet into the pool below. The rock is of soft, yellowish-whitesandstone. Close to the water edge I carved C96 and Godfrey scratched theinitials of all of us. The pool, which when full would hold some fortythousand gallons, I named "Godfrey's Tank, " as he was the first whiteman to set eyes upon it. 

Having finished our bathe, we set about looking for a path by which tobring the camels for a drink; the gorge was too rocky and full of hugeboulders to make its passage practicable, and it seemed as if we shouldhave to make a detour of a good many miles before reaching the water. Fortunately this was unnecessary, for on meeting Breaden he told us hehad found a small pool at the head of the first valley which was easy ofaccess. This was good news, so we returned to camp, and, as it was nowdark, did not move that night. And what a night it was!--so hot andoppressive that sleep was impossible. It was unpleasant enough to beroasted by day, but to be afterwards baked by night was still more so! Afierce fire, round which perhaps the warriors were dancing, lit up therocks away beyond the headlands, the glow showing all the morebrilliantly from the blackness of the sky. 

The next morning we packed up and moved camp to the pool, passing up thefirst valley--Breaden Valley--with the first promontory on our left. Atthe mouth of the valley, on the south side, are three very noticeablepoints, the centre one being conical with a chimney-like block on oneside, and flanking it on either hand table-topped hills. 

Down the valley runs a deep but narrow creek which eventually finds itsway round the foot of the headlands into a ti-tree-encircled red lagoonenclosed by sand-ridges. Near the head of the valley the creek splits;near the head of the left-hand branch is Godfrey's Tank; in the other, just before it emerges from the cliffs, is the small pool found byBreaden. Several kinds of trees new to me were growing in the valleys, one, a very pretty crimson-blossomed tree, not unlike a kurrajong in size, shape, and character of the wood, but with this difference, in leaf, thatits leaves were divided into two points, whilst the kurrajong has three. One of these trees had been recently chopped down with a blunt implement, probably a stone tomahawk, and a half-finished piece of work--I think ashield--was lying close by. The wood is soft, and must be easily shaped. It is rather curious that the natives, of whom, judging from the smokeseen in all directions, there must be a fair number, should not have beencamped at such a splendid water as Godfrey's Tank, the reason of theirabsence being, I suppose, that camping in the barren hills would entaila longish walk every day to any hunting grounds. To the native "enoughis as good as a feast, " and a wretched little well as serviceable as alarge pool. The nights were so cloudy that I was unable to see any stars, but by dead reckoning only the position of the pool is lat. 20 degrees 15minutes long. 126 degrees 25 minutes. 

From the top of the highest headland, which is divided into twonipple-like peaks, an extensive view can be obtained. To the South and theSouth-East, the Southesk Tablelands; to the East, broken tablelands andsandhills; to the North, the same; to the North-West, nothing buthopeless ridge upon ridge of sand as far as the horizon. To the West, some ten miles distant, a line of cliffs running North and South, withsand-ridges beyond, and a plain of spinifex between; to the North of thecliffs an isolated table-top hill, showing out prominently--this I namedMount Cornish, after my old friend and tutor in days gone by. 

Leaving the hills on the 21st, we soon reached a little colony ofdetached hills of queer shapes, one, as Breaden said, looking "like aclown's cap. " From the top of the highest, which I named Mount Ernest, after my brother-in-law, a dismal scene stretched before us, nothing butthe interminable sand-ridges, the horizon as level as that of the ocean. What heartbreaking country, monotonous, lifeless, without interest, without excitement save when the stern necessity of finding water forcedus to seek out the natives in their primitive camps! Every day, however, might bring forth some change, and, dismal as the country is, one wasbuoyed up by the thought of difficulties overcome, and that each day'smarch disclosed so much more of the nature of a region hithertountraversed. It would have been preferable to have found good country, for not only would that have been of some practical benefit to the worldat large, but would have been more pleasant to travel through. So far wehad had nothing but hard work, and as the only result the clear proofthat a howling wilderness of sand occupies the greater area of theColony's interior

By going due East from Mount Ernest I could have cut the Sturt Creek inless than one hundred miles' travel, which would have simplified ourjourney. But taking into consideration that an equal distance wouldprobably take us beyond the northern boundary of the desert, I determinedto continue on a Northerly course, as by doing so we should be stilltraversing unknown country, until we reached the Margaret River or sometributary of it; whereas by cutting and then following up the Sturt, weshould merely be going over ground already covered by Gregory's andsubsequent parties. 

Careful scanning of the horizon from Mount Ernest resulted in sightingsome hills or rocks to the North-East. Excepting that higher groundexisted, nothing could be seen as to its nature, for it was ever movingthis way and that in the shimmering haze of heat and glare of the sun, which, intensified by powerful field-glasses, made one's eyes ache. Ifind it hard indeed to render this narrative interesting, for every pageof my diary shows an entry no less monotonous than the following:

"Same miserable country--roasting sun--no feed for camels--camp on crestof high ridge in hopes of getting a breath of air--thousands of small antsworry us at night--have to shift blankets half a dozen times. Val's feetgetting better--she can again walk a little. "

The high ground seen from Mount Ernest turned out to be bare rocks ofblack ironstone, from which we sighted a very large smoke rising to theeastward--miles of country must have been burning, a greater extent thanwe had yet seen actually alight. Probably the hot weather accounted forthe spread of the flames. Though apparently at no great distance, it tookus all that day and six hours of the next to reach the scene of the fire, where spinifex and trees were still smouldering and occasionally breakinginto flames, whirlwinds of dust and ashes rising in every direction. Having camped we set out as usual to find tracks, Breaden and Warri beingsuccessful in finding a pad of some dozen blacks going in the samedirection. This they followed for a few miles, and returned long afterdark, guided by a blazing bank of spinifex; very worn and thirsty theywere too, for tramping about in sand and ashes is a most droughty job. 

Having kept the camels in camp, since there was not a scrap of feed, wewere able to be well on our way before sunrise. Luckily the tracks led usbetween two ridges, and we had only one to cross, which was fortunate, for our beasts were famished from hunger, having had no food or water forfive days. At every halt, however short, if whoever was leading themstopped, even to pull out a piece of spinifex which had found its waythrough some hole in his boot, they would take advantage of it and"plump" down on the sand; and whilst one was being goaded up, down wouldgo the rest. Poor Prempeh had to be unloaded and dragged behind. 

Less than a mile beyond where Breaden had turned back we came on thebiggest camp of natives we had seen--quite a village! Perhaps a dozenlittle "wurlies" or branch-shelters were dotted about the foot of asandhill. Camped under them we found one buck, several gins, and numerouspicaninnies; it was clear that more were not far off. The first thingthat struck us about the man was his complete assurance, and secondly hispronounced Jewish cast of features. With an ulster and a few tall hats onhis head he would have made a perfect "old clo'" man. An oldish manthis, with grizzled beard brought to a point, and in the end a tuft of arat's tall was twisted, others similarly adorning the ends of hismoustache. His hair was done in a round lump at the back, held in placeby a sort of net of string. His hair in front had been either pulled outor shaved off, giving him a very fine forehead. His nose and lips wereJewish to a degree. His womenfolk showed no such characteristics, mostof them being remarkably plain, with the exception of one pretty littlegin, who, poor thing, was suffering from a similar disease to the man wesaw at Family Well. We dressed her wounds with tar and oil, and I thinkrelieved her sufferings somewhat. 

Our next patient was a small boy, who, from his swollen appearance, hadevidently enjoyed a hearty breakfast. He had sore eyes, literally eatenaway at the inner corners into deep holes, prevented from healing by themyriads of flies that hung in clouds round his head. I made anapplication of some eye-lotion, at which he shrieked horribly, poor boy. I had never used that particular brand before, and did not know itsstrength. He was quite a small chap, and the old Jew held him in his armswhilst I doctored him, and nodded his head in approval. They showed ustheir well close by, the usual sort, just at the foot of the sandhill, and we set to work in the customary style, the buck watching us withinterest. Feeling that there must be more natives about, and not liking atreacherous look in the old Jew's eyes, we brought a couple of rifles tothe mouth of the well. 

Before long we heard the "Yu-u-u" of approaching black-fellows, and in aminute fifteen naked savages came bounding down the sandhill towards us. Fortunately for them we saw they had no weapons; even so, it was adangerous proceeding on their part, for some white men would have shotfirst and inquired about their weapons afterwards! They were all bigmen--the finest we saw anywhere excepting the two near Point Massie, andmost of them had a marked Jewish look. [This peculiarity has beenremarked amongst the natives of the McDonnell Ranges, CentralAustralia--but nowhere else. ] They were very friendly--too much so--forthey crowded round us, patting us, and jabbering so that our work on thewell was much hindered. Presently more women came on the scene, and withmany cries of "white-fella, " "womany, " their men made it clear that wemight take the whole lot with us if we so desired! This was hospitality, indeed; but underlying it, I fear, were treacherous designs, for the gameof Samson and Delilah has been played with success more than once by thewily aboriginal. 

We took but little notice of the natives, as obtaining water was ofgreater interest at that moment than the prosecution of ethnologicalstudies. Charlie worked away down the well with perfect unconcern, whilethe rest of us were occupied in hauling up the sand from below andkeeping the blacks at a distance. Wonderfully cunning fellows they were!I was standing close by a Winchester which lay on the ground; one mancame up, patting me all over and grinning in the most friendly way, andall the time he worked away with his foot to move the rifle to his matebeside me. However, he did not succeed, nor another who tried the sametrick on Godfrey, and after a time they all retired, for reasons bestknown to themselves, leaving only the old man and the children behind. 

Godfrey pressed the old man into our service and made him cut bushes fora shade; it seemed to me that an axe was not just the best thing for aman who would probably sooner have used it against us than not, so he wasdeposed from his office as woodcutter. As soon as the well was ready forbaling I walked off to see if anything of interest could be found, or ifanother camp was anywhere near. The instant the old Jew saw me sling arifle over my shoulder he ran like a hare, yelling as he went. He wasanswered by similar calls not far off. As he ran he picked up his spearsfrom a bush, and I could see the marks of the weapons of the rest of thetribe, which had been planted just over the rise of sand. They evidentlyknew all about a rifle, yet we were still over a hundred miles in abee-line from Hall's Creek. I saw their fleeing figures scattering in alldirections, and followed up some tracks for some distance without findinganything of interest. 

I noticed a considerable change in the country to the East, over whichthere spread a forest of desert oak, and near the sandhills thickets ofti-tree. The well seems to be at the head of an ill-defined watercourse, which, lower down, runs between an avenue of bloodwoods. Close to thewell are several large ant-heaps, and from the sandhill above it littlecan be seen; but north of the well one mile distant is a high ridge ofsand, from which is visible a prominent square hill, bearing 334 degreesdistant eighteen miles; this stands at the Eastern end of a tableland, andis named Mount Bannerman, after my sister-in-law. The well had anabundant supply, though a little hard to get at, as it was enclosed bytwo rocks very close together, necessitating a most cramped position whenbaling with a saucepan on the end of a stick. 

By daylight we had watered all the camels and were glad to rest under theshade we had made with boughs. Our rest lasted three days to allowPrempeh, who was very poorly, to recover. The flies, as usual, worried usunmercifully, but I was so thankful to regain once more my sense ofhearing that I rather enjoyed their buzzing. I had for some weeks been sodeaf that unless I had my attention fixed on something, I could not hearat all. I must have been a great bore to my companions very often, forfrequently they talked for a long time to me, only to find that I had notheard a word!

We were greatly entertained by two small boys, the sole representativesof the tribe, who showed intense delight and interest in all our doings, and were soon tremendous chums with Warri. One was quite a child, verysharp and clever; the other a young warrior, very proud of his spear andshield--a well-built youngster whose appearance was somewhat spoiled by asevere squint in one eye. They showed no fear whatever of us, or of thecamels, and were soon on quite friendly terms with the latter, pattingand stroking their noses; they lost confidence before long, when thesmall boy inadvertently patted the wrong end of a camel and was kickedviolently. 

The position of the Jew Well is lat. 19 degrees 41 minutes, long. 127degrees 17 minutes; from it we steered to Mount Bannerman, over the usualridges of sand, now further apart and lower. On some of the flats betweenwe found splendid little patches of feed [Amongst it GOODENIA RAMELII], where the spinifex had been burnt and was just sprouting up again. Oneplant, new to us, was growing in profusion and resembled nothing so muchas bunches of grapes with the fruit pulled off. We camped early, as suchfeed was not to be passed by. The next morning, we found that our axe hadbeen left behind at the well; so, as it was a most useful article, I sentWarri back for it, whilst Godfrey and I put in the day by following theyoung warrior, who volunteered to show us a very large water--a ten-milewalk with nothing at the end of it was not at all satisfactory, nor didwe feel very kindly disposed to our small friend. I suppose he wanted tofind his tribe again, for when we stopped we could see a smoke in thedistance. 

We saw quite a number of spinifex rats, and though Godfrey carried a gunone way and I carried it coming home, we never bagged one, and only hadone shot, which missed. Every rat got up quite 150 yards off in the mostannoying way. We started burning a patch of spinifex, but since we werenot pressed for food we concluded that the weather was quite hot enoughwithout making fires! I fancy that only by taking a leaf out of theblackfellows' book could one have any success in spinifex-rat hunting. Ihave read in Giles's book, and Sir John Forrest has told me, that when hewas in the bush the rats were easily secured. Possibly they were morenumerous in the better country that he passed through, or larger and notso quick. All our efforts were unavailing, the only occasion on which weslaughtered a rat being when Val caught a young one; the full-grown oneswere far too fast for her and too quick in turning round the hummocks ofspinifex. 

Warri returned with the axe in the evening and reported that no nativeshad visited the well since our departure. The next day as we approachedthe hills the two boys, sitting aloft on the top of the loaded camels, were much excited and made many signs that water was not far off. Thehills we found to be the usual barren, rocky tablelands, scoured intogullies and gorges, which, forming small creeks, disappear before manymiles amongst the sandhills. 

Mount Bannerman stands at the eastern end of the hills; a little to thewest is a deep and narrow gorge, the bed of which is strewn with greatboulders and slabs of rock. The hill is capped with a conglomerate ofquartz, sandstone and ironstone pebbles, some of the quartz fragmentsbeing as large as hen's eggs and polished quite smooth. From its summitan apparently high range can be seen to the North; to the East and Southnothing but sand-ridges; to the South-West a prominent square hill, thehighest point in a broken table-range, bears 226 degrees. This hill Inamed Mount Erskine, after the Kennedy-Erskines of Dun. 

Travelling West from Mount Bannerman, we had five miles of very rough andjagged rocks to cross, worn away into a regular network of deep littleglens, very awkward to get over. The rocks were burning hot, and thewalking was not at all to the liking of our small guide. The youngwarrior led the way, but was continually turning round for instructionsto the little chap riding behind, who directed him with a wave of thehand in a most lordly manner. It is a most noticeable thing how much thenatives seem to feel the heat, and I am inclined to think that in the hotweather they hunt only in the morning and evening, and camp during theday. I was walking with the youth, and whenever we stopped to allow thecamels to catch us up he would crouch right up against me to get thebenefit of my shadow; and he was so fearfully thirsty that I took pity onhim and got him some water, though WE had all walked since sunrisewithout a mouthful. 

In crossing these small ravines, I noticed again how much easier it isfor camels to step down a steep rock than up--in stepping up they hangtheir front foot out, and paw about for a place to put it down upon in amost silly way. 

In the main channel of a number of conjoining glens we came on a nicelittle pool under a step in the rocky bed. A few gums shaded the pool, growing in the sand by its edge. On arrival we found a large eagle-hawkwith a broken wing flapping about; this our two boys soon despatched withsticks, and I looked forward to getting a handsome bird skin. However, theyoungsters had it plucked and on a heap of burning sticks before we haddone looking for a way, down which to lead the camels. 

We made camp just above the pool, and were lucky in finding a patch ofcamel feed within a couple of miles across the rocks, for around all wasbarren excepting a few stunted gums. The next morning I went with Breadenfor the camels, and noticed what I had suspected before, viz. , thatBreaden had lately become very thin and weak. This morning he collapsed, and I was thankful I had seen it; for he is a man who would nevercomplain, but just go on until he dropped. He could not conceal hissickness now, and in a very short time was suffering from severedysentery. Luckily we had plenty of water close at hand, for hecould not possibly travel. For three days he lay in the recess of asheltering rock near the pool, and we nursed him as best we could. Condensed milk and brandy, thin cornflour and chlorodyne, I doctoredhim with; he was a very obedient patient, whose pangs of hunger wereaggravated by watching us feeding daily on bronzewings, wallabies, and galahs. This pool was a favourite resort for hundreds ofbirds--crows, hawks, galahs, parakeets, pigeons and sparrows--and numerous dingoes. Of the bronzewings, which at sundown and before sunrise lined the rocksliterally in hundreds, we shot as many as we wanted. How thick they werecan be judged from the result of one barrel, which killed fourteen. 

It was a pretty sight to watch the birds drinking, as we sat in Breaden'ssick-room, the cave. By keeping quite still we could watch them all. Allday long the sparrows, diamond and black, are fluttering about the water, chirping and twittering, until the shadow of a hawk circling abovescatters them in all directions. Then morning and evening flocks oflittle budgerigars, or lovebirds, fly round and round, and at last take adive through the air and hang in a cloud close over the water; then, spreading out their wings, they drink, floating on the surface. Thegalahs make the most fuss of any, chattering away on the trees, andsneaking down one by one, as if they hoped by their noise to cover theadvance of their mate. The prettiest of all the birds is a little plump, quail-like rock-pigeon or spinifex-pigeon, a dear little shiny, brownfellow with a tuft on his head. They arrive at the water suddenly andunexpectedly from behind rocks and trees, and stand about considering;then one, more venturesome than the rest, runs quickly down to drink, andis followed by a string of others; then they run up again ever so fast, and strut about cooing and spreading their crests--one seldom sees themfly; when they do they rise straight up, and then dart away close to theground and drop suddenly within a few yards. Of all birds the crow hasmost sound common sense; there is no dawdling in his methods; down heswoops with beautifully polished feathers glistening in the sun, to thewater's edge, stands for a second to look calmly from side to side; thena long drink and away he goes, thoroughly satisfied to mind his ownbusiness and nobody else's. 

The two boys were splendid marksmen with short sticks, which they threwinto the flights of love-birds and sparrows as they passed. Whenever theykilled one they squatted down and heated it on the ashes, and ate itstraight away; and so small bird after small bird went down their throatsall day long, and they never thought to keep them until they hadsufficient for a good square meal. No doubt in their family circle theyhave to take what they can get, and only make sure of keeping what theyhave, by eating it at once. 

Wandering about the hills I saw an emu, the first I had seen sinceleaving the Coolgardie districts, though we had found their tracks atWoodhouse Lagoon. He was too shy for me, and I failed to get a shotafter a lengthy stalk. Godfrey returned late that night with severalwallabies, and many bruises and abrasions, for he had had a nasty fall inthe dark down one of the many ravines. 

The next morning was a sad one, for it disclosed the death frompoison-plant of poor old Shiddi, one of the best and noblest of camels--afine black, handsome old bull. I declare it was like losing an oldfriend, as indeed he was. Where one camel is poisoned all the rest maybe, and since, from Breaden's dysentery, we could not travel, we mustfind another camp not far off. So we marched South-West down the creekand found another pool. Here we saw the first signs of white men for manya long day, in the shape of old horse-tracks and a marked tree, on whichwas carved (F. H. 18. 8. 96). This I found afterwards stood for FrankHann, who penetrated thus far into the desert from Hall's Creek andreturned. On another tree I carved a large C. 

Breaden was slowly getting better when poor Charlie went sick, and we hadtwo in hospital. A most unenviable condition, where no sort of comfortscan be got. By digging into the bank of the creek we made a sort ofcouch, and rigged flies over it for a shade. Bad as the days were, thenights were worse; for myriads of ants followed swarms of flies, andblack, stifling clouds followed a blazing sun--all of which is bearableto, and passes after a time unnoticed by a man in good health. But poorfellows, worn to skeletons by unending work and the poorest of food, unable to move from sickness, are worried almost past endurance by theinsects and heat. Every night we experienced terrific thunderstorms, butalas! unaccompanied by rain. At sunset the clouds banked up black andthreatening, the heat was suffocating, making sleep impossible, lightningwould rend the sky, and then after all this hope-inspiring prelude, several large drops of rain would fall and no more, the sky would clearand the performance be over, only to be repeated the following evening. 

Our change of camp made no difference in the feed, for on the 9th anothercamel was found dead in the morning--poor Redleap, who had never onceshown a sign of giving in, killed in a matter of a few minutes. Weexamined his body, swollen to a tremendous degree, the usual indicationof poison-plant--evidently very virulent and painful, for we could seehow, in his death agony, he had torn up the ground with his teeth, andturned and bitten himself most cruelly. It was clear we must move again. As we prepared to load up, Stoddy was suddenly seized with the poisonsickness, and careered at full speed round the camp in circles, fallingdown and rolling in agony at intervals. After a lot of trouble we stoppedhim, threw him, and roped him down; administered a gallon of very strongEpsom salts and water, then a dose of soapsuds, and bled him by slittingboth ears. This unquestionably saved his life, for the first two remediestake too long to act. This scene had a curious effect on the other camels, and for days after Stoddy was avoided, nor would any bear being tied onbehind him without snapping their nose-lines or breaking their nose-pegsto get away. 

Further down the creek, some six and a half miles from the hills, is afine flat of grass and herbage surrounded by large white gums--this ispractically the end of the creek, and to this spot we shifted camp, packing water from the pool. On the 10th Prempeh died--another victim tothe poison--and I began to dread the morning. Fortunately our new campwas free from poison, and no more deaths occurred. It was sad to think ofour camels dying thus after so many hundred miles of desert bravelytraversed--yesterday a picture of strength and life, to-day food forthose scavengers of the bush, the dingoes. What satisfied howls they gaveforth all night long; for, like crows or vultures, they seem to collectfrom far and wide round the body of any dead thing. From our camp MountErskine was visible, but not of sufficiently inviting appearance to makea visit worth while. 

On the 15th all were off the sick list and ready to march. I feltsorrowful indeed at the loss of the camels, but thankful that no more haddied, and more thankful still that we had been able to camp whilst poorBreaden and Charlie regained their health. Such a sickness in the heartof the desert could have had but one ending. 

Our way lay over spinifex plains until just north of the hills asand-ridge was crossed, remarkable from its regular shape and wonderfullystraight course, as if it had been built to most careful measurements andalignment. 

The 16th of November was a red-letter day, for on it we crossed the LASTSAND-RIDGE--in lat. 19 degrees 20 minutes--leaving the desert behind us. A feeling of satisfaction filled us that we had conquered itsdifficulties not by chance, but by unremitting toil and patience. I amsure that each in his heart thanked his God that He had been pleased tobring us through safely. Once across the range we had seen from MountBannerman--a range of quartzite hills which I named Cummins Range, afterthe Warden at Hall's Creek--and we had reached the watershed of thetributaries of the Margaret and Fitzroy Rivers. From Cummins Range onwarduntil we struck the Margaret, we had very rough hills and rocks tocross--this hard travelling after the yielding sand was most painful tothe camels, and their feet were soon sore and cut by the sharp edges ofrock. The country may be roughly described as slate bedded on edge, insuch a way as to leave sharp corners and points of rock sticking up inall directions. Through the slate run veins of quartz, often rising abovethe surface in huge blows, hills, and even small ranges. Innumerablegullies crossed our path, and occasionally fair-sized creeks. Such a oneis Christmas Creek, which, where we saw it, is made up of three creeksfrom fifty to eighty yards across, running almost parallel and not morethan half a mile apart. These soon meet and form a fine creek which joinsthe Fitzroy many miles to the Westward. These creeks are fringed withgums, Bauhinia, and Leichardt trees, all affording splendid shade--andfollowing the banks on either side is a belt of high grass and shrubs, from which occasional kangaroos and wallabies bounded, alarmed by thesound of our advancing caravan. 

On the north side of Christmas Creek we crossed the first auriferouscountry we had seen since leaving the Neckersgat Range, close to LakeDarlot. Standing on a high peak of white, sandy-looking quartz, a hillwhich I named Mount Hawick after my first mate in West Australia, LordDouglas of Hawick, innumerable jagged ranges rose before me in alldirections. To the south could be seen the Cummins Range, bounding thedesert; to the north the black, solid outline of the Mueller Range. Andnow we were in surveyed country, and without much difficulty I couldidentify such points as Mount Dockrell, the Lubbock Range, McClintockRange, and others, and was pleased to find that after all our wanderingswe had come out where I had intended, and in a general way had followedthe line I had pencilled on the chart before starting. 

Mount Hawick's approximate position is lat. 18 degrees 53 minutes long. 127 degrees 3 minutes; five miles from it, in a N. W. Direction, we founda splendid pool in a deep gorge, whose precipitous sides made it hard tofind a passage down which the camels could reach the water. For fear of asudden downpour and consequent flood in the creek, we camped on the flatrock above the pool. Fish, small and bony, but of excellent flavour, abounded in the water, and we were soon at work with needles, bent whenredhot into hooks, baited with pieces of cockatoo flesh, and pulled outscores of the fish; Godfrey, whose skill in such matters is very great, accounting for over a hundred in a very short time. These were verywelcome, for we had run out of meat for some days past, nor had we beenable to shoot any birds or beasts. 

Pigeons and other birds came in small quantities to drink, and kangarootracks were numerous; in spite, however, of braving the mosquitoes nearthe water by sitting up all night, we did not even get a shot. Charlieset some snares with equal ill-success, but the following day Godfrey gota fine kangaroo, and a carpet-snake over nine feet in length. What we didnot eat of the former at the first sitting, was dried in strips in thesun and kept for future use. 

Here we also made acquaintance with the native bee, and would certainlyhave been counted mad by any stranger who could have seen us sitting inthe smoke of a fire in the broiling sun! This was the only way to escapethem; not that they sting, on the contrary they are quite harmless, andcontent themselves by slowly crawling all over one, up one's sleeve, downone's neck, and everywhere in hundreds, sucking up what moisture theymay--what an excellent flavour their honey must have!

On a gum-tree near the pool some initials were carved, and near them aneatly executed kangaroo. The second name I recognised as that of BillyJanet, the first to find alluvial gold at Lake Darlot. He was one of theKimberley prospectors in the old days of the '87 rush. Keeping north fromthe Janet Creek we crossed stony tablelands timbered with gums, andnumerous ravines and small creeks, until, on following down a nicelygrassed gorge with a creek running through it, we struck the dry bed ofthe Mary River on November 25th. Henceforth our path lay through pleasantplaces; shady trees, long grass, and frequent pools of water in theshingly beds of the creeks made a welcome change after the awfuldesolation of the desert. Indications of white men were now constantlymet with--marked trees, old camps, and horse-tracks. Striking north fromthe Mary, over plains of spinifex and grass, passing many queer, fort-like hills, we reached the Margaret River, a noble creek, even whendry as we saw it. Nice grass plains extend along its banks, and thetimber and bush is alive with the sounds of birds, whose bright plumagewas indeed good to look upon. Cockatoos and parrots of the most gorgeouscolouring darted here and there amongst the trees, and every now and thena swamp-pheasant would fly shrieking from the branches above. 

CHAPTER XIV

DEATH OF STANSMORE

Where the Margaret River forces its way through the Ramsay Range, a finepool enclosed between two steep rocks has been formed. This is apermanent pool, and abounds in fish of various kinds. Above and below itthe river was merely a dry expanse of gravel and shingle; a month laterit was a roaring torrent, in places twenty feet deep. Close to the poolwe noticed an old dray road, the old road to Mount Dockrell. I askedWarri where he supposed it led to, and he answered "Coolgardie!"Curious that one impossible to bush in a short distance should be soludicrously out of his reckoning. Time now being no object, since thenumerous ducks and fish supplied us with food, we camped for two days atthe pool, enjoying its luxuries to the full. Our larder contained abucketful of cold boiled ducks, a turkey, and numerous catfish andbream--rather a change from the sand-ridges! As to bathing, we feltinclined to sit all day in the water. I think we enjoyed ourselves moreat that pool than any of us could remember having done for a long time. The desert was forgotten, and only looked back upon as a hard taskfinished. 

All were as happy and cheerful as could be, speculating as to what sortof place Hall's Creek was, and in what way our sudden appearance wouldaffect the inhabitants. Charlie was sure that they would receive us withopen arms and banquet us, the lord mayor and the city band would meet us, and a lot more chaff of the kind. Only eight miles, I reckoned, laybetween us and the telegraph line and the Derby-to-Hall's-Creek road; andwe made bets in fun whether we should reach the line before or after acertain hour; as we started our march on the 30th there was no happierlittle band in the wide world. Charlie followed one side of the river, carrying the gun, as we meant to celebrate the arrival at the telegraphline with a pot of kangaroo-tail soup. To pass the ridge of rock, the endof the Ramsay Range, it was necessary for us with the camels to keep wideof the river bank and descend a steep little gorge. As we started to godown we saw some kangaroos jumping off towards Charlie, and presentlyheard a shot. A shout from us elicited no reply, so we concluded he hadmissed, and continued on our march. 

When we reached the river bank again, I looked out for Charlie, butsomebody said he was across the river-bed in the long grass. After aboutan hour's travel it struck me that he should have rejoined us, or elsethat he had shot the kangaroo and was delayed by skinning or carrying it. No thought of any mishap entered my head, for a prolonged absence of oneor other of us was of common occurrence. However, after another half-houra nervous feeling came over me, and, stopping the camels, I sent Warriback to see what Charlie was about. Before very long Warri returned, hardly able to speak from fear mixed with sorrow. 

"What on earth's come over the boy?" I said. Then he blurted out, "Charlie dead, I think. " "Good God! Are you sure?--did you speak to him, or touch him?" I asked, as we ran back together, the rest with the camelsfollowing behind. "Him dead, lie 'long a rock--quite still, " Warrianswered, and he had not spoken or touched him. Panting andanxious--though even then I thought of nothing worse than a sprainedankle, and a faint in consequence--we arrived at the foot of the rockswhere Charlie had last been seen, and whence the sound of the gunshot hadcome. Right above us, caught by a ledge on the face of the rock, fiftyfeet from the ground, I saw Charlie lying, and clambering up somehow atfull speed, reached his side. 

Good God! Warri had spoken a true word. There was no spark of life in thepoor old fellow. What a blow! What an awful shock! What a calamity! I satdazed, unable to realise what had happened, until roused by a shout frombelow: "Is he hurt?--badly?--not DEAD!" "As a stone, " I answered; andthat was what we felt in our hearts, a dull weight, pressing all sense orstrength from us. 

How to describe that sad scene? Poor old Charlie! one of the best andtruest men that God ever blessed with life; such a fine manly character;so honest and generous--a man whose life might stand as an example forany in the land to follow; from whose mouth I never heard an oath orcoarse word, and yet one whose life was spent amongst all classes, in allcorners of Australia; such a true mate, and faithful, loyalcompanion--here his body lay, the figure of strength and power, he who hadbeen most cheerful of us all. It seemed so hard, to die thus, the journeydone, his share in the labour so nobly borne and patiently executed; thedesert crossed, and now to be cut off on the edge of the land of promise!Ah well, it was better so than a lingering death in the desert, a swiftand sudden call instead of perhaps slow tortures of thirst andstarvation! Poor Charlie! the call of death is one that none of us mayfail to heed; I only pray that when I am summoned to the "great unknown"I may be as fit to meet my Maker as you were. 

It was easy to see how the accident had happened; the marks on the rockand the gun were soon deciphered. He was carrying the gun by the muzzlebalanced on his shoulder, the stock to the rear; on climbing down a steepplace, his heels--his boots had iron heel plates--slipped, he fell withhis back to the rock; at the same time the gun was canted forward, fellright over, striking the hammer of one barrel on the rock at his feet--thecartridge exploded, and the charge entered his body just below the heart. Death must have been instantaneous and painless, for on his face was apeaceful smile, and he had never moved, for no blood was showing exceptnear the wound. An accident that might have happened to any one, notthrough carelessness, for the gun was half-cock, but because his time hadcome. 

We buried him between the rocks and the river at the foot of a large gumtree. No fine tombstone marked his grave, only a rough cross, and abovehim I carved his initials on the tree, C. W. S. 30. 11. 96. 

There we laid him to rest in silence, for who was I that I should readholy words over him? "Goodbye, Charlie, old man, God bless you!" wesaid, as in sorrow we turned away. The tragedy had been so swift, sounexpected, that we were all unmanned; tears would come, and we wept asonly men can weep. A few months past I heard that a brass plate sent byCharlie's brothers had arrived, and had been placed on the tree by WardenCummins, as he had promised me. 

In due course we reached the telegraph line, without enthusiasm orinterest, and turned along the road to Hall's Creek with hardly a word. Stony hills and grass plains and numerous small creeks followed oneanother as our march proceeded, and that night, the first in December, weexperienced a Kimberley storm. The rain started about 2 a. M. , and intwenty minutes the country was a sea of water; our camp was flooded, andblankets and packs soaked through and through. The next morning everycreek was running a banker and every plain was a bog. However, the camelsbehaved well and forded the streams without any fuss. That day we metsome half-civilised natives, who gave us much useful information aboutHall's Creek. With them we bartered a plug of tobacco for a kangarootail, for we wanted meat and they a smoke. They had just killed theanimal, and were roasting it whole, HOLUS-BOLUS, unskinned and undressed. We saw several mobs of grey kangaroos feeding in the timber--queer, uncanny beasts, pretty enough when they jump along, but very quaint whenfeeding, as they tuck their great hind legs up to try and make them matchthe fore. 

On December 4th we arrived at Hall's Creek; the first man we met wasSergeant Brophy, of the Police--the first white face we had seen sinceJuly 21st. At Hall's Creek at last, after a somewhat prolonged journey of1, 413 miles, counting all deviations. 

CHAPTER XV

WELLS EXPLORING EXPEDITION

The first news that we heard was of the disaster that the expeditionunder Mr. L. A. Wells had met with. Two of his party were missing, and itwas feared that they had met with some serious mishap. Fortunately Hall'sCreek can boast of telegraphic communication with Derby and Wyndham onthe coast, and from thence to Perth; so that I lost no time in lettingWells know of our arrival, that we had seen no traces of the lost men, and that we were ready to do whatever he, who knew all particulars of thematter, should think best. When I told Breaden that I had put my camelsand party at Wells' disposal, he said at once that he was ready to go, but that in his opinion the camels were not fit to do another week'sjourney; Godfrey, too, was as ready. Indeed it would have been strange ifwe, who had so lately come through the desert, and knew its dangers, hadnot been eager to help the poor fellows in distress, although from thefirst we were morally certain there could be no hope for them; the onlytheory compatible with their being still alive, was that they were campedat some water easy of access, and were waiting for relief, keepingthemselves from starvation by eating camel-flesh. 

For many reasons, that need not be gone into, it was thought best by thepromoters of the expedition in Adelaide that we should remain where wewere; and, thanking me very heartily for our proffered assistance, theyassured me they would be very glad to avail themselves of it should thesearch-parties already in the field meet with no success. Had we felt anyhope whatever of the men being alive we should certainly have started offthen and there; since, however, the chances of finding any but dead menwere so very infinitesimal, I agreed to wait and to put myself at theircommand for a given time. It will be as well to give here a shortaccount, as gathered from letters from Wells and others to thenewspapers, of the unfortunate expedition. 

This expedition, fitted out partly by the Royal Geographical Society, South Australia, and partly by a Mr. Calvert, was under command of L. A. Wells, who was surveyor to the Elder Expedition (1891-92). The party, besides the leader, consisted of his cousin, C. F. Wells, G. A. Keartland, G. L. Jones, another white man as cook, two Afghans, and oneblack-boy, with twenty-five camels. The objects of this expedition weremuch the same as those of my own, viz. , to ascertain the nature of thecountry still unexplored in the central portions of West Australia, "hopes being entertained of the possibility of opening up a valuablestock route from the Northern Territory to the West AustralianGoldfields, and of discovering much auriferous country" (vide ADELAIDEOBSERVER, June 6, 1896). A collection of the flora and fauna was to bemade, as well as a map of the country passed through. The expeditionstarted from Cue, Murchison district, left civilisation at Lake Way, and travelled in a North-Easterly direction from there to Lake Augusta, thence in a Northerly direction past Joanna Springs to the Fitzroy River. Thus their course was almost parallel to our upgoing journey, and some150 to 200 miles to the westward, nearer the coast. The class of countryencountered was similar to that already described by me--that is sand, undulating and in ridges. 

A well, since called "Separation Well, " was found in long. 123 degrees53 minutes, lat. 22 degrees 51 minutes. At this point the expeditionsplit up: Charles Wells and G. L. Jones, with three camels, were to makea flying trip ninety miles to the Westward; then, turning North-East, were to cut the tracks of the main party, who were to travel nearly dueNorth. 

The rendezvous was fixed at or near Joanna Springs--which place, however, the leader failed to find (until some months afterwards, when he provedthem to have been placed on the chart some eighteen miles too far West byColonel Warburton in 1873, who in his diary doubts the accuracy of theposition assigned to the spring by himself, and remarks, "What matter insuch country as this?"). When the latitude of the spring was reached, about a day and a half was spent in searching to the east and westwithout result. A native smoke was seen to the eastward, but the leaderfailed to reach it. 

The camels were on the brink of collapse, many had already collapsed, andthe leader considered that by further search for the spring he would bebringing almost certain death on the whole party. Therefore, abandoningall collections, and in fact everything except just enough to keep himand his companions alive, he pushed on for the Fitzroy River--travellingby night and camping in the day--a distance of 170 miles. They arrived atthe Fitzroy River after the greatest difficulties, with one bucket ofwater left, and only two camels fit to carry even the lightest packs. 

The flying party were daily expected, for the arrangement had been that, failing a meeting at Joanna Springs, both parties were to push on to theFitzroy. Days passed, however, and no flying party appeared. 

Before long fears as to their safety began to grow, and Mr. Wells madenumerous attempts to return on his tracks. The heat, however, was toomuch for his camels, and he was unable to penetrate to any distance. Mr. Rudall in the meantime, who had been surveying in the Nor'-West, wasdespatched by the Western Australia Government to make a search from theWest. He had a good base in the Oakover River, and pushed out as far asSeparation Well. Nothing, however, came of his gallant efforts, for hewas misled, not only by lying natives, but by the tracks of camels andmen, which subsequently turned out to be those of prospectors. Hisjourney, however, had many useful results, for he discovered a new creekrunning out into the desert (Rudall River), and the existence ofauriferous country north of the Ophthalmia Range, besides confirmingGregory's account of the country East of the Oakover. 

It was not until April, 1897, that Mr. Wells found the bodies of hiscousin, Charles Wells, and George Jones. From their diaries (so much ofthem at least as was published) the dreadful tale of suffering can betraced. It appears that on leaving the main party they travelled westwardas directed, and started to turn North-East to cut the tracks of theothers. Before many miles on the fresh course, however, they for somereason changed their minds and retraced their steps to Separation Well. From this point they started to follow the main party, but before longthey seem to have become sick and exhausted, and the camels to show signsof collapse. Later we read that, exhausted from heat, hardship, andthirst, they lay down, each in the scanty shade of a gum tree; that thecamels wandered away too far for them to follow; efforts to recover thestragglers only ended in their falling faint to the ground, and so, deserted by their means of transport, without water, without hope, thesetwo poor fellows laid down to die, and added their names to the long rollof brave but unfortunate men whose lives have been claimed by the wildbush of Australia. 

What a death! Alone in that vast sea of sand--hundreds of miles fromfamily or friends--alone absolutely! not a sign of life around them--nobird or beast to tell them that life existed for any--no sound to breakthe stillness of that ghastly wilderness--no green grass or trees torelieve the monotony of the sand--nothing but the eternal spinifex and afew shrunken stems of trees that have been--no shade from the burningsun--above them the clear sky only clouded by death! slow, cruel death, and yet in their stout hearts love and courage! Poor fellows! they diedlike men, with a message written by dying fingers for those they left tomourn them--a message full of affection, expressing no fear of death, butperfect faith in God. So might all mothers be content to see their sonsdie--when their time comes. 

They had died, it appears, too soon for any aid to have reached them. Even had Mr. Wells been able to turn back on his tracks at once onarrival at the Fitzroy, it is doubtful if he could have been in time togive any help to his suffering comrades. 

The bodies were taken to Adelaide, where the whole country joined indoing honour to the dead. 

CHAPTER XVI

KIMBERLEY

Since we were not to retackle the sand forthwith, we laid ourselves outto rest and do nothing to the very best of our ability. This resolve wasmade easy of execution, for no sooner had the Warden, Mr. Cummins, heardof our arrival, than he invited us to his house, where we remained duringour stay in Hall's Creek, and met with so much kindness and hospitalitythat we felt more than ever pleased that we had arrived at thisout-of-the-way spot by a rather novel route. 

Since Kimberley (excepting the South African district) must be an unknownname to the majority of English readers, and since it is one of the mostvaluable portions of West Australia, it deserves more than passingmention. 

Hall's Creek, named after the first prospector who found payable gold inthe district, is the official centre of the once populous Kimberleygoldfields, and the seat of justice, law, and order for the EastKimberley division. 

Attention was first drawn to this part of the Colony by the report ofAlexander Forrest, who discovered the Fitzroy, Margaret, and otherrivers; but it was not the pastoral land described by him that caused anyinflux of population. Gold was the lure. The existence of gold wasdiscovered by Mr. Hardman, geologist, attached to a Governmentsurvey-party under Mr. Johnston (now Surveyor-General), and, though hefound no more than colours, it is a remarkable fact that gold has sincebeen discovered in few places that were not mentioned by him. Numerous"overlanders" and prospectors soon followed; indeed some preceded thisexpedition, for Mr. Johnston has told me that he found marked trees inmore than one place. Who marked them was never ascertained, but it wassupposed that a party of overlanders from Queensland, who were known tohave perished, were responsible for them. 

In 1886 payable gold was found, and during that and the following yearone of the largest and most unprofitable "rushes" known in Australia setin for the newly discovered alluvial field. The sinking being shallow, what ground there was, was soon worked out, and before long the rush setback again as rapidly as it had come, the goldfield was condemned as aduffer, and left to the few faithful fossickers who have made a livingthere to this day. The alluvial gold was the great bait; of this butlittle was found, and to reefing no attention to speak of was given, sothat at the present time miles upon miles of quartz reefs, blows, leaders, and veins are untouched and untested as they were before therush of 1886. No one can say what systematic prospecting might disclosein this neglected corner of the Colony. There are many countries lessfavoured for cheap mining; Kimberley is blessed with an abundantrainfall, and the district contains some of the finest pasture-lands inAustralia. 

A scarcity of good mining timber, the remoteness of the district fromsettled parts, and the bad name that has been bestowed upon it, are thedisadvantages under which the goldfield labours. Nevertheless twobatteries are working at the present day, and a good find by some oldfossicker is not so rare. 

Setting aside the question of gold-discoveries, which may or may not bemade, this district has a great future before it to be derived from theraising of stock, cattle, sheep, and horses. So far only a limited areaof country has been taken up--that is to say, the country in the valleysof the Ord, Margaret, and Fitzroy Rivers and their tributaries. Therestill remains, however, a large tract lying between those rivers and themost Northerly point of the Colony as yet unoccupied, and some of it evenunexplored. One or two prospectors have passed through a portion of it, and they speak well of its pastoral and, possibly, auriferous value. 

Cut off, as it is, by the desert, the district has the disadvantage ofnone but sea communication with the rest of the Colony. This necessitatesthe double shipment of live stock, once at either port, Derby or Wyndham, after they have been driven so far from the stations, and once again atFremantle. A coastal stock route is debarred by the poverty of thecountry between Derby and the De Grey River, and a direct stock routethrough the desert is manifestly impracticable. It seems to me that toolittle attention has been given to horse-breeding, and that aremunerative trade might be carried on between Kimberley and India, towhich this district is nearer than any other part of Australia. 

What horses are bred, though otherwise excellent, are small--a defectthat should easily be remedied. The cattle, too, are rather on the smallside, and this again, by more careful attention to breeding, could beimproved upon. 

Hall's Creek is by no means a large town; in fact, it consists of exactlynine buildings--post and telegraph office and Warden's office and court, Warden's house, hospital, gaol, police-station, sergeant's house, butcher's shop and house, store, and hotel. 

Besides these there are several nomadic dwellings, such as tents, bushhumpies, and drays. 

A house is a luxury, and some of the oldest residents have never builtone. "Here to-day and gone to-morrow, what's the good of a house?"was the answer I got from one who had only been there for ten years!

Mud-brick walls and corrugated-iron roofs is the style of architecture ingeneral vogue. The inhabitants are not many, as may be supposed, butthose there are simply overflow with hospitality and good spirits. Oneand all were as pleased to see us, and have us live amongst them, as ifwe had been old friends. The population is very variable; the surroundingdistrict contains some fifty or sixty fossickers, who come into town atintervals to get fresh supplies of flour and salt beef--the one and onlydiet of the bushmen in these parts, who, though very rarely seeingvegetables, are for the most part strong and healthy. Sometimes cases ofscurvy, or a kindred disease, occur; one poor chap was brought in whilstwe were there, very ill indeed. I happened to be up at the hospital, andasked the orderly (there was no doctor) what he would do for him in theway of nourishing food. "Well, " said he, looking very wise, "I think alittle salt beef will meet the case. " And such would indeed have been hisdiet if I had not luckily had some Liebig's Extract; for the town was ina state verging on famine, dependent as it is on the whims of "packers"and teamsters, who bring provisions from the coast, nearly threehundred miles, by road. Twice a year waggons arrive; for the resteverything is brought per horseback, and when the rains are on, and therivers running, their load is as often as not considerably damaged byimmersion in the water. 

A monthly mail, however, and the telegraph line places the community muchnearer civilised parts than its geographical position would lead one tosuppose. The arrival of the mail, or of the packers, is a great event, more especially since no one knows what they may bring. Thus a train ofpack-horses arrived at a time when flour was badly needed, but each loadconsisted of either sugar or lager-beer--both excellent articles buthardly adaptable to bread-making. The climate, situation, surroundings, and want of means of recreation all combine to make the publican'sbusiness a lucrative one. When, as sometimes happens, a fossicker comesin with a "shammy" full of gold, and lays himself out to make himselfand every one else happy, then indeed the hotel-keeper's harvest is arich one. And since nobody cares much whether he buys his liquor, ormakes it of red-pepper, kerosene, tobacco, methylated spirits, and whatnot, the publican's outlay in "only the best brands" need not beexcessive. 

Christmas and New Year's Day were, of course, great days of revel;athletic sports were held, and horse-races. The latter were not quite asuccess; the entries were very few, and the meeting was nearly resolvingitself into a prize-fight when one owner lodged a complaint against thewinner. As a rule the race-meetings are better attended; every bushtownship has its meetings throughout the continent, and, in remotedistricts, there are men who entirely "live on the game. " That is tosay, they travel from place to place with a mob of pack-horses, amongstwhich, more or less disguised by their packs, are some fast ones, withwhich they surprise the community. These men, though great scoundrels, are considered to be earning a legitimate living, since no man needgamble with them unless he likes; if he is taken in by them he hashimself to thank. 

Christmas Eve is celebrated by a performance known as "tin-kettling, " inwhich all join. Each arms himself with a dish, or empty tin, which hebeats violently with a stick. To the tune of this lovely music the partymarches from house to house, and at each demands drink of some kind, which is always forthcoming. Thus the old institution of Christmas-waitsis supported, even in this far corner of the world. 

CHAPTER XVII

ABORIGINALS AT HALL'S CREEK

It may not at first be very clear what the gaol and police force are usedfor, since the white population numbers so few. However, the aboriginalsare pretty numerous throughout Kimberley, and are a constant source ofvexation and annoyance to the squatters, whose cattle are frequentlykilled and driven wild by native depredators. A squatter, far from beingallowed to take the law into his own hands, even when he catches theblacks in the act of slaying his cattle--not only for food but as oftenas not for mere devilment--has to ride into Hall's Creek and report to thepolice, and so gives time for the offenders to disappear. The troopers, when they do make a capture of the culprits, bring them in on chains, to the police quarters. By the Warden, through a tame boy as interpreter, they are tried, and either acquitted and sent back to their country orsentenced to a turn of imprisonment and handed over to the gaoler. Ingaol they have a remarkably good time, fed upon beef, bread, jam, andwater, and made to do useful work, such as drawing and carrying water, making roads, &c. They work in small chain-gangs--a necessary precautionsince there is only one gaoler to perhaps fifteen prisoners--are clothedin felt hats and short canvas kilts, and except that they are deprived oftheir freedom have probably as comfortable a time as they ever had duringtheir lives. 

From time to time there have been grave accusations of cruelty made bywell-meaning busybodies against the squatters of the North andNorth-West. Occasional cases have been proved beyond all question, casesof the most revolting brutality. But from these exceptional instances itis hardly fair to class the whole squatting population as savage. Ruffians. Since I have had the opportunity of seeing what treatment ismeted out I feel it is a duty to give every prominence to what has comeunder my notice. First of all, let us take it for granted that the whitemen's civilisation must advance; that, I suppose, most will admit. Thisbeing the case, what becomes of the aboriginal? He is driven from hishunting-grounds and retaliates by slaughtering the invading cattle. Whatsteps is the white pioneer, who may have no more than one companion, totake to protect his own? If he quietly submits his herd will be wipedout, and he and his mate afterwards. By inspiring fear alone is he ableto hold his position. He must therefore either use his rifle and saynothing about it, or send perhaps 150 miles for the troopers. After atime, during which he carries his life in his hands--for a couple ofhundred natives, savage and treacherous, are not the pleasantestneighbours--he succeeds in convincing the natives that he intends to stopwhere he is. What then do they do? Do they move to fresh hunting-grounds?They might, for there is ample room. No, they prefer to live roundabout the station, a source of constant anxiety and annoyance. Consequently we find to-day a large number of natives permanently campedround every homestead, living on the squatter's bounty. Too lazy to hunt, too idle and useless to work, they loaf about the place, living on themeat that is given them on killing-days, and on figs and seeds, when inseason, between times. Thus, though the squatter takes their country hefeeds them for ever after. A smart boy may be trained and partiallyeducated, and becomes useful amongst the horses and so forth, and somefew are always employed about the station--the rest just lie about andgorge themselves at the slaughter-yards, and then wait until they canagain do so. 

It has been suggested that reserves should be set apart for thedispossessed natives. This would, in the opinion of those best able toexpress one, never succeed, for once the white man is established theblacks will collect round him, and though, as I have mentioned, thereremains more than half the Kimberley division untouched by whites, forming a reserve ready to hand, yet the natives prefer to live ahand-to-mouth existence where food can be obtained without trouble, rather than retreat into another region where game abounds, and therecontinue their existence as wandering savages. Round Hall's Creek thereis always a camp of blacks, varying from twenty to fifty or one hundred, who live as best they can without hunting. 

On Christmas Day a hundred or so rolled up to receive the AboriginalBoard's liberal bounty--a Board fortunately now reconstructed, for it wascontinually the cause of much friction between the squatters, theGovernment, and itself, in the days when it was not controlled by theGovernment, as it now is. Six pounds sterling was set aside for theWarden to provide food and raiment for the natives under hisjurisdiction. Six pounds per annum per two thousand aboriginals--for suchis their reputed number--seems hardly adequate. Perhaps if the gentlemenresponsible for this state of affairs had concerned themselves more aboutthe aboriginals, and less about the supposed barbaric cruelty of thesquatters, the objects of their mission would have been better served. However, whilst the black-fellow must remain content with his scantyallowance, it is found expedient to send an inexperienced youth, freshfrom England, from place to place to make a report on the treatment ofthe aboriginals, at a salary of 500 pounds a year. And a fine collectionof yarns he produced--for naturally no one could resist "pulling his leg"to the last degree! However, this question has at last been put into thehands of those best calculated to know something about it; for though theGovernment is neither perfect nor infallible, yet the colonists arelikely to understand a purely local matter better than a Board ofgentlemen lately from home. 

They were a merry lot of people, the blacks round Hall's Creek, andappeared to see the best sides of a deadly dull existence. Their ways andhabits are now so mingled with ideas gathered from the whites that theyare not worth much attention. Dancing is their great amusement, andthough on Christmas Day we made them compete in running, jumping, andspear-throwing, they take but little interest in such recreations. Thoughknown to Australian readers, a description of such a dance may prove ofinterest to some in the old country. 

"A CORROBOREE, " OR NATIVE DANCE. 

The entertainment begins after sundown, and on special occasions may bekept up for two or three days and nights in succession. A moonlit nightis nearly always made the occasion for a corroboree, to which nosignificance is attached, and which may be simply held for the amusementthe actual performance affords. 

Descriptions of the great dances attendant on the initiation of a boyinto manhood, and its accompanying brutal rites, find a more suitableplace in scientific works than in a book intended for the general reader. I will therefore merely describe some of the dances which are performedfor entertainment. 

The word corroboree is applied equally to the dance, the whole festival, or the actual chant which accompanies the dancing. 

Men and women, the men especially, deck themselves out with tufts of emufeathers, fastened in the hair or tied round the arm, or stuck in thewaist-belt of plaited hair; paint their bodies with a white paint or washmade from "Kopi" (gypsum similar to that found by the shores of saltlakes), with an occasional dab of red ochre (paint made from a sandstoneimpregnated with iron), and fix up their hair into a sort of mop boundback by bands of string. Thus bedecked and painted, and carrying theirspears and boomerangs, they present a rather weird appearance. 

A flat, clear space being chosen, the audience seat themselves, men andwomen, who, unless the moon is bright, light fires, which they replenishfrom time to time. The dancers are all men, young warriors and older men, but no greybeards. The orchestra consists of some half-dozen men, whoclap together two sticks or boomerangs; in time to this "music" awailing dirge is chanted over and over again, now rising in spasmodicjerks and yelled forth with fierce vehemence, now falling to a prolongedmumbled plaint. Keeping time to the sticks, the women smack their thighswith great energy. The monotonous chant may have little or no sense, andmay be merely the repetition of one sentence, such as "Good fella, white fella, sit down 'longa Hall's Creek, " or something with an equallysilly meaning. The dancers in the meantime go through all sorts of queermovements and pantomimes. First, we may have the kangaroo corroboree, inwhich a man hops towards the musicians and back again, to be followed inturn by every other dancer and finally by the whole lot, who advancehopping together, ending up with a wild yell, in which all join. 

Then we may have the emu-corroboree, where each in his turn stalkssolemnly around with the right arm raised, with elbow bent, wrist andhand horizontal and poked backwards and forwards, to represent the emu'sneck and head. The left hand held behind the back, like that of a shyofficial expecting a tip, stands for the emu's tail. Thus they advanceslowly and jerkily with back bent and arm pointing now this way, nowthat, like an inquisitive emu who is not sure of his ground. 

Next the mallee-hen builds her nest, and each dancer comes forward at amincing trot, in his hands a few twigs and leaves, which he deposits infront of the "orchestra, " and, having built his nest, retires. And sothey go on mimicking with laughable accuracy the more common beasts andbirds. 

The most comical dance in which they all joined--that is all thedancers--was one in which they stood on tiptoe, with knees bent andshaking together as if with fear, then giving forth a sort of hissingnoise, through fiercely clenched teeth, they quickly advanced in three orfour lines and retired trotting backwards. This ended with a prolongedhowl and shrieks of laughter. The energy with which they dance isextraordinary--shaking their spears and grunting, they advance with kneesraised, like high-stepping horses, until the thigh is almost horizontal, now one leg now the other, with a will, and then one, two, down come thefeet together with a thud, the dancers striking their spears in theground, growling out savagely a sound that I can only express as "woomph, woomph"--with what a smack their flat feet meet the ground, and what ashrieking yell goes up from all throats as they stop!

To enliven the performance they use flat carved sticks, some eight incheslong, and of a pointed oval shape. Through a hole in one point theythread a string, with which the stick is rapidly swung round, making abooming noise--"Bull-roarers" is the general white-fellows' name forthem. Amongst some native prisoners brought in from the Sturt I saw aprimitive wooden horn, on which a sort of blast could be blown. No doubtthis, too, has its place in their performances. 

I am told they keep up these corroborees as long as three days andnights, though certainly not dancing all the time. Probably the stickclapping is kept up by relays of performers. I have heard the chant go onall one night and well into the next day, with hardly a break. 

Hall's Creek is a great place for corroborees, for there are gatheredtogether boys from all parts of Central Australia, Northern Territory, and Queensland, brought by coastal overlanders. These boys all knowdifferent chants and dances, and are consequently in great request at thelocal black-fellows' evening parties. Warri told me he had learnt severalnew songs; however, they appeared to my evidently untrained ear to be allexactly alike. 

We were to have had a very swell festival at Christmas, but it somehowfell through. I fancy the blacks were not given sufficient notice. 

The blacks, in addition to these simple festive gatherings, have solemndances for the purpose of promoting the growth of edible seeds and roots, of increasing the rainfall, or the numbers of the animals and reptiles onwhich they feed. But more important still are those connected with theirbarbarous, but sacred, rites and ceremonials. 

CHAPTER XVIII

PREPARATIONS FOR THE RETURN JOURNEY

Had I known how long our stay in the North was to be, I should have takenthe opportunity of further studying the natives and their habits, andshould certainly have visited them in their wild homes in the unknownportion of Kimberley. As it was I daily expected a message asking me tostart in search of the missing men, and held myself in readinessaccordingly. Our small caravan, now further reduced by the death ofCzar--a sad loss, for he was one of my old friends, and one of thestaunchest camels I have known (together we had seen many a tough bit ofwork); he fell down a steep gully at night, poor old beast, and soinjured himself that he died almost immediately--was increased by thepurchase of three horses, with which I intended to carry out my plan ofsearch; since, however, it was never instituted, I need not explain itsnature. It sufficiently accounts for the presence of horses in thecaravan with which the return journey was made. 

As time dragged on it became clear that the missing men could no longerbe living, and since there were two search parties already in the field, I felt that I was only wasting time by staying longer in idleness. Wewere too far off to make any search except by a protracted expedition, and, since I was morally sure of the men's death, I did not feel calledupon to expose my party to the risks of the desert when no useful objectcould be accomplished. Had the intervening country been unknown I shouldhave been quite ready to start forth, for in that case, whatever theresult of the search, I should have felt rewarded for any lossesincurred, by the knowledge that we had been the means of opening up afurther tract of an unexplored region. As it was we should only havefollowed a route previously traversed by Warburton, from which, unlesswe achieved the melancholy satisfaction of finding the scene of thedisaster, no useful results could follow. I determined, therefore, toleave the search to those who could best afford the time and expense, andset about planning our return to Coolgardie. We had four routes open tous--either the road to Derby and thence by steamer: the road to Derby andthence along the coastal telegraph line: the way we had come: and anentirely new route, taking our chances of the desert. The first wasdismissed as feeble, the second as useless, and the third as idiotic. Therefore the fourth remained, and though it was natural enough for me towish to win distinction in the world of travel (and I daresay this wasthe motive that inspired me), surely it speaks well for them indeed, thatBreaden and Massie were willing to accompany me. 

Without the slightest hesitation, though knowing full well what laybefore us, that we might even encounter worse difficulties than before, without any thought of prospective gain--for their salary was nofortune--they signified their readiness to return by whatever route Iproposed. This is a point that I should like to make clear to all who mayread this, for it is indicative of a trait often lost sight of by thoseaccustomed to having, in novels and so forth, the more mercenary side ofthe Australian's character pointed out to them. A common subject ofspeculation is whether or no Australians would make good soldiers; as tothat my belief is, that once they felt confidence in their officers nonecould make more loyal or willing troops; without that confidence theywould be ill to manage, for the Australian is not the man to obeyanother, merely because he is in authority--first he must prove himselffit to have that authority. 

If, therefore, we are deserving of any credit for again tackling thesand, let it be remembered that my companions are more worthy of it thantheir leader--for they had nothing to gain, whilst I had at least thedistinction of leaving my name upon the map--and though I made plans, without good and true men I could not have carried them out. There seemedto me to be a slight chance of finding better country to the eastward ofour first route, and, besides the geographical interest, there wouldresult the proof of the practicability or otherwise of a stock route tothe southern goldfields--a route which would be such a boon to theKimberley squatters. I may as well state at once that such a route isquite out of the question, and that I would hesitate to undertake thejourney with a mob of more than twenty camels, let alone cattle. 

Fortunately I was able to purchase three more camels, the property of theSouth Australian Government, which Mr. Buchanan had brought from theNorthern Territory for the purpose of looking for a stock route. However, a day or two beyond the end of Sturt Creek satisfied him as to theimpracticability of the scheme, and he returned to Flora Valley, a cattlestation close to Hall's Creek, that is to say, twenty-five miles away. Atthe time of our arrival Mr. Buchanan was out with Mr. Wells, and did mostvaluable service in the search for the missing men. After his return hewas very glad to get the camels, which he neither liked nor understood, off his hands. 

With eight camels and three horses our caravan was brought up tostrength. In the matter of provisioning, equipment, and way oftravelling, I made some alteration. Everything was considered with a viewto lightness, therefore only absolute necessaries were carried. Alltools, except those used in "soak-sucking, " and so forth, were discarded;the provisions consisted of salt beef (tinned meat being unprocurable), flour, tea, sugar, and a few tins of condensed milk (damaged and unfitfor use in the ordinary way). All possible room was given towater-carrying appliances, so that we could carry in all about onehundred gallons. Had it not been for my former plans I should not havetaken horses; but they are animals easier to buy than to sell, and wouldcertainly be most useful if only we could find food and water to keepthem alive. With sorrow and regret I had to part with Val, for only a fewdays before our departure she gave birth to a litter of pups, and had ofcourse to be left behind. However, the Warden, to whom I gave her, promised to be kind to her, as indeed I am sure he has been--neverthelessit was a sad wrench. In her place I took a small mongrel which belongedto the Warden, an "Italian greyhound, " as some one suggested, though Inever saw a like breed! He rejoiced in the name of "Devil-devil, "because, I suppose, he was quite black. 

I made no attempt to replace poor Charlie Stansmore, since there were nomen willing to come whom I should have cared to take. I cannot say enoughin gratitude for the hospitality that we met with at Hall's Creek, fromthe Warden, whose guests we were the whole time, and every member of thesmall community. I shall look back with pleasure to our stay in thatfaraway spot. 

APPENDIX TO PART V

SOME NATIVE WEAPONS AND CEREMONIAL IMPLEMENTS

[Refer to list of illustrations at the beginning of the text, (illustrations not included in text). Letters (A to O) refer to theillustrations]

1. SPEARS. --A. Of Desert native; B. Of Kimberley native; C. Method ofthrowing. 

A. The spear of the desert man is either sharp pointed, spatulatepointed, or barbed. They vary in length from 8 feet to 10 feet, and indiameter, at the head (the thickest portion), from 1/2 inch to 1 inch. Asa rule, a man carries a sheaf of half a dozen or more. 

B. In the Kimberley District the spears are of superior manufacture andmuch more deadly. The heads are made of quartz, or glass, or insulatorsfrom the telegraph line. Before the advent of the white man quartz onlywas used, and from it most delicately shaped spear-heads were made, thestone being either chipped or pressed. I fancy the former method is theone employed--so I have been told, though I never saw any spear-heads inprocess of manufacture. 

Since the white man has settled a portion of Kimberley, glass bottleshave come into great request amongst the natives, and most deadly weaponsare made--spears that, I am told, will penetrate right through acattle-beast, and which are themselves unimpaired unless they strike on abone. When first the telegraph line from Derby to Hall's Creek and thenceto Wyndham was constructed, constant damage used to be done to it by thenatives who climbed the poles and smashed the insulators for spear-headmaking. So great a nuisance did this become that the Warden actuallyrecommended the Government to place heaps of broken bottles at the footof each pole, hoping by this means to save the insulators by supplyingthe natives with glass!

The stone or glass heads are firmly fixed in a lump of spinifex gum, andthis is held firm on the shaft by kangaroo tail sinews. The shaft is ofcane for half its length, the upper part being of bamboo, which is foundon the banks of the northern rivers. 

Up to a distance of eighty to one hundred yards the spears can be thrownwith fair accuracy and great velocity. 

The length of these spears varies from 10 feet to 15 feet. The one shownin sketch is of glass, and is one-half actual size. 

In the Nor'-West (that is, the country lying between the Gascoyne andOakover rivers), wooden spear-heads with enormous barbs are used. Sometimes the barbs are placed back to back, so that on entering a bodythey can be pulled neither forward nor back. 

C. THE WOOMERA (or Wommera)--the throwing-board--held in the hand as insketch. The spears rest on the board, and are kept in place by the firstfinger and thumb and by the bone point A, which fits into a little hollowon the end of the shaft. The action of throwing resembles that ofslinging a stone from a handkerchief. As the hand moves forward the spearis released by uplifting the forefinger, and the woomera remains in thehand. These boards vary in size and shape considerably; that shown in thesketch is from the northern portion of the desert. In the centralportion the weapons are more crude and unfinished. In the handle end ofthe woomera a sharp flint is often set, forming a sort of chisel. 

In Kimberley the long spears are thrown with narrow and light boardsvarying from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet 6 inches in length. 

I believe that the method of holding the spear varies somewhat, somenatives placing the handle of the woomera between the first and remainingfingers. 

2. TOMAHAWKS. --D. Iron-headed; E. Stone-headed. 

D. Pieces of iron, such as horseshoes, fragments of the tyres of wheels, and so forth, are traded from tribe to tribe for many hundreds of miles. Those shown in sketch were found about lat. 21 degrees 50 minutes, long. 126 degrees 30 minutes. 

E. STONE TOMAHAWK--from Sturt Creek--given to me by Mr. Stretch. 

The head is of a very dark and hard green stone, ground to a fine edge, and is set between the two arms of the handle and held in place withspinifex gum. 

The handle is formed by bending round (probably by means of fire) asingle strip of wood. 

The two arms of the handle are sometimes held together by a band ofhair-string. 

The iron tomahawks are similarly made. 

3. BOOMERANGS. --These weapons are now so well known that a description ofthe ordinary pattern would be superfluous. However, near Dwarf Well wefound one of uncommon shape; and until reading a book on a Queenslandtribe I was unaware of its use, nor could I find any one who had seen oneof like shape. The weapon in question is the BEAKED or HOOKED boomerang(F). 

Mr. W. Roth, in his "Ethnological Studies Among the North-West CentralQueensland Aborigines, " says:--

"It appears that when warding off a blow from a boomerang of anydescription the defence consists in holding forwards and vertically anystick or shield that comes to hand, and moving it more or less outwards, right or left as the case may be, thus causing the missile on contact toglance to one or the other side. The hook is intended to counteract themovement of defence by catching on the defending stick around which itswings and, with the increased impetus so produced, making sure ofstriking the one attacked. "

4. CLUBS AND THROWING-STICKS (G). 

1. The uses of these are sufficiently obvious to make a descriptionunnecessary. 

2. The throwing-sticks are used chiefly in hunting, and for guarding ablow from a boomerang. Most that I have seen were made of mulga (acacia)hardened by fire. 

5. SHIELDS. --H. Of hard wood (Mulga); I. Of soft wood (Cork bark). 

H. The hard-wood shields are carved from a solid piece of mulga, aregrooved to turn spears, and slightly curved for the same purpose. Thehandles stand out from the back. These were found as far North as lat. 25degrees S. 

I. The soft-wood shields found North of lat. 25 degrees are of about thesame size, but are not grooved. Their faces are rounded; the handles aregouged out. It is interesting to notice how in each example the mostserviceable shield has been made in the easiest way. The mulga splitsinto boards, and so cannot be obtained of any thickness, so flat shieldsare made; whereas the cork wood is a soft and very readily worked treeand can be carved and hacked into shape with the rudest implements, suchas that shown in sketch (J). 

6. QUARTZ KNIFE (K). 

With this exceedingly rough implement self-inflicted gashes on the chestand arms (presumably for ornamentation) are made. The rites ofcircumcision, and other initiatory operations, for the proper performanceof which one would suppose the skill of a trained surgeon necessary, arecarried out by means of this crude blade. 

7. CEREMONIAL STICKS (L). 

In almost every camp flat sticks of various sizes, shapes, and carvings, similar to those shown above, were found. They were always carefullywrapped up in bark secured by hair-string. They are said to be used bythe blacks in their several initiation ceremonies, but what their use orsignificance is, is not known. No tame boy (i. E. , native who can speakEnglish) will divulge their mysterious meaning. I have repeatedly askedabout them, but have never succeeded in getting any answer beyond "Idunno, gin (or lubra) no more see 'em; gin see 'em, she tumble down quickfella. " There must be some very queer superstition connected with them, since the ladies die on seeing them. Indeed, the black fellow has asomewhat arbitrary method of dealing with his gins, and should they beill-advised enough to attempt to argue with him, does not wait to producea flat stick, but silences them with a club. 

8. RAIN-MAKING BOARDS. 

M. Three of similar pattern found at Alexander Spring. 

N. Found at Empress Spring hidden away with two similar to M. 

With reference to these queer and rudely carved boards I received aletter from Mr. W. H. Cusack, of Roebourne, North-West Australia, inwhich he says: ". . . The implement you allude to is used by the"Mopongullera, " or Rain-doctor, at their ceremony which they hold annuallywhen they are making the rain. They are very rare, as there is only oneevery two hundred miles or so in the country. They are generally left atthe rain ground, where you found yours, or placed in a cave, where theonly one I have seen IN TWENTY-FIVE YEARS was found. They are the mostsacred implements they possess. . . "

It would seem from the foregoing that we were specially lucky in seeingso many of these boards--viz. , six within a distance of fiftymiles--though it is possible that of the three found at Alexander Spring(on the occasion of our second visit) two might be identical with two ofthe three found at Empress Spring. Between our two visits to AlexanderSpring there had evidently been a considerable gathering of blacks, and, considering the droughty appearance of the country, it seems feasiblethat on this occasion every available rain-making board was brought intouse. 

We were unfortunately unable to carry the Empress Spring boards, owing totheir bulk and unwieldy shape. 

From the other spot, however, seeing that we were nearing our journey'send, I brought one board--the only one unbroken--into civilisation. ThisI gave to Sir John Forrest, who in his journey across the Colony in 1874found a similar board at the same place. In his journal he writes:". . . I named it Alexander Spring, after my brother. . . . We also foundabout a dozen pieces of wood, some 6 feet long and 3 to 7 inches wide, and carved and trimmed up. All around were stones put up in forked trees. I believe it is the place where the right of circumcision isperformed. " Mr. Cusack's statement as to their extreme rarity in theNor'-West, taken in conjunction with Sir John's experience and ours, would point to the strong reliance the natives must place on theirRain-doctor's abilities, for where the rainfall is comparatively greatthese boards are rare, while in the almost waterless interior, at a spotalmost exactly in the centre of the Colony, nearly a dozen have beenfound. I would respectfully point out to the black-fellows how littletheir efforts have been successful, and would suggest the importation ofseveral gross of boards, for the climate at present falls a long wayshort of perfection!

In the McDonnell Ranges (Central Australia) performers in the rain-dancewear on their heads a "long, erect, and ornamented structure of wood"("Horn Scientific Expedition, " part iv. ). This structure is not carved, but picked out with down made to adhere by blood, and is apparently some3 to 4 feet long. From the length of the boards we found (one being 10feet), I should say that some other method of using them must be in vogueamongst the desert tribes. 

9. MESSAGE STICKS (O). 

These little sticks, rounded, carved, and painted with grease and redochre, are known as either letter sticks or message sticks, and arecommon all over the continent. The carvings are supposed by some torepresent the actual words of the message; by others it is held--and tothis view I am inclined--that the sticks are tokens carried by amessenger to show that his words are authentic, and each stick belongs toone tribe or individual whose identity is shown by the carvings. Theyvary in length from 2 1/2 to 8 inches. 

The sketch (O) shows the same stick turned three times. 

PART VI

THE JOURNEY HOME

CHAPTER I

RETURN JOURNEY BEGINS

We left Hall's Creek, on our return journey, on March 22, 1897. Takingthe road to Flora Valley we passed Brockman--where, by the way, lives afamous person, known by the unique title of "Mother Deadfinish. " Thisgood lady is the most curious of her sex that I have ever seen; now alittle dried-up, wizened old woman of Heaven knows what age, she was inher younger days a lady of wonderful energy. She came overland fromQueensland, accompanying her husband who, in the early days of the rush, sought to turn an honest penny by the sale of "sly grog. " However, hedied on the road, so his mourning widow carried through the job withouthim, and successfully withstood the trials of the journey, includingheat, fever, and blacks. The latter were very numerous, and gave greattrouble to the early diggers, spearing their horses and very often themen themselves. Many skirmishes ensued, and, so it is said, "MotherDeadfinish" handled her Winchester with the best of them! Eventuallyshe arrived at the diggings, and has been there ever since, making aliving by the sale of goat's milk, fowls, eggs, and a few vegetables. Sheis quite a character and worth talking to, but not always worth listeningto; for her language is notorious; indeed, it is a recognised form ofamusement for the diggers to bring into their conversation certaintopics, such as the Warden, or the Police, who are so especiallydistasteful to her that ordinary language cannot express her feelings. Inthe same way that a boy delights to stir up a monkey and hear himchatter, the fossicker bent on recreation rouses the old lady to feats ofswearing far beyond the scope of most people. No man has yet been foundwho could withstand her onslaught. I saw her angry once! She positivelyalarmed me; the three witches in Macbeth thrown into one would be of noaccount in comparison. Had she lived a century or two ago she wouldinfallibly have been burnt. 

A few miles past the Brockman the auriferous country is cut off by whatis locally known as the "Sandstone"--a sheer, wall-like range named theAlbert Edward. 

Just below the gorge where the Elvire River (a tributary of the OrdRiver) breaks through the range is situated Flora Valley Cattle Station, the property of the brothers Gordon. A charming little place, after therains; the homestead stands on a high bank above the river, here fringedwith high, shady trees. Beyond the homestead and the yards, a fine plainof grass stretches out, surrounded by rough and rocky hills. As charmingas their little place were the owners, the most kind-hearted andhospitable folk it is possible to imagine. Here we stayed a few days toget some meat salted for our journey; nothing would satisfy the twobrothers but that they must find the finest bullock on their run, killit, and give it to us. Flora Valley is a great place for the blacks, wholive there in scores, camped by the river, and fed by the kind-heartedsquatters. Leaving the station and travelling South-East, our route laythrough a few low hills, and then we came out upon the Denison Downs, most magnificent plains of grass. 

The first few days of a journey are most unsettled, saddles do not fit, packs will not ride, the animals will not agree, and dozens of likeannoyances. Our three new camels, Bluey, Hughie, and Wattie, were almostunmanageable; for not only had they been running loose for some time, buthad never been well behaved or well looked after. Bluey was a dreadfullywild brute, and all but brought Warri, who was riding him, to grief;after bucking and plunging and trying all manner of tricks, he stampededat his fullest speed, with his head towards some overhanging branches, under which he might have passed with impunity, but they must havecrushed Warri EN ROUTE. 

Luckily I was just in time to get Highlander between the tree and thecamel, and so saved a nasty accident. Besides these small troubles, Breaden and Godfrey were suffering agonies from "sandy blight, " a sort ofophthalmia, which is made almost unbearable by the clouds of flies, theheat, the glare, and the dust. Breaden luckily was able to rest in a darkroom at Flora Valley and recovered, or at least sufficiently so to beable to travel; Godfrey was very bad indeed, quite blind and helpless. Atnight we pitched his mosquito-net for him--for these insects are simplyravenous, and would eat one alive or send one mad in this part of thecountry--and made him as comfortable as possible; in the morning, until Ihad bathed his eyes with warm water he was blinded by the matter runningfrom them: then during the day he sat blindfolded on The Monk, one of thehorses--a most unpleasant condition for travelling. 

Fortunately it was not for long, for soon we cut the Sturt Creek, and, following it, reached the Denison Downs Homestead--the last settlement tothe southward, and I should say the most out-of-the-way habitation inAustralia of to-day. The nearest neighbours are nearly one hundred milesby road, at Flora Valley; in every other direction there is a blank, hundreds of miles in extent. A solitary enough spot in all conscience!Yet for the last ten years two men have lived here, taking their chancesof sickness, drought, floods, and natives; raising cattle in peace andcontentment. Terribly rough, uncouth chaps, of course? Not a bit ofit!--two men, gentlemen by birth and education, one the brother of abishop, the other a man who started life as an artist in Paris. A roughlife does not necessarily make a rough man, and here we have the proof, for Messrs. Stretch and Weekes are as fine a pair of gentlemen as needbe. How they came to migrate to such a spot is soon told; they broughtcattle over during the rush, hoping to make a large fortune; however, therush "petered out, " half their cattle died, and with the remainder theyformed their station, and have remained there ever since, year by yearincreasing their herd, now numbering some four thousand head, and lookingforward to the time when they hope to be well repaid for their labours. Alarge, single-roomed iron shed, on the bank of a fine big pool, is theirhome, and there with their flocks and herds they live, like thepatriarchs of old, happy and contented. In fact, the only people I haveever come across, who seemed really satisfied with life are some of thesefar-away squatters. 

Numerous natives were collected round the station, and about them Mr. Stretch told me many interesting things. Their marriage laws wereexpounded to me over and over again, but without pencil and paper nothingcan be learned, so confusing are they. 

It was not until my return that I worked out the following relationships, but I feel confident of their accuracy:--

MARRIAGE LAWS. 

The aboriginals of Northern and Central Australia are governed in theirsocial life by marriage laws and class systems of the most intricatekind. It is generally supposed that these laws have for their objectprevention of consanguinity and incest. The laws are strictly adhered to, any offender against them being punished by death. I owe the informationon this subject to Mr. Stretch, who took great pains to make clear to methe fundamental principles, from which I have worked out the variouscombinations. I have tried to arrange these laws and the relationshipsresulting from them in an intelligible form, and have been greatly aidedby a paper by Mr. Gillen, published in the "Horn Scientific Expedition, "on the McDonnell Range tribes. I was unable to get the tribal names, butthis, for the purposes of explanation only, is unnecessary. 

The aboriginals in question belong to the Eastern district of Kimberleygenerally, and more particularly to the Sturt Creek. These natives aredescended from eight original couples, who have given their names to theeight classes into which the tribe is now divided. 

For simplicity's sake I will assume that in place of eight there werefour original classes. This will illustrate the principle equally well, and be far less involved. 

Let A, B, C, and D represent the names of the four classes--to one ofwhich every native belongs. 

1. The first law is that--Natives belonging to class A may onlyintermarry with class B, and natives belonging to C may only intermarrywith class D. 

2. The progeny of a man and woman of intermarrying classes is of adifferent class from either father or mother. 

Thus a man of class B marries a woman of class A, but their offspring(male or female) is of class D. 

Let Am represent a male of class A. 

Let Af represent a female of class A, and similarly Bm, Bf, &c. 

Let Ap represent progeny who belong to class A, and similarly Bp, Cp, Dp. 

Law 2 may now be set down as under--

 Af + Bm Am + Bf Cf + Dm Cm + Df ------- ------- ------- ------- Dp Cp Bp Ap

3. The first law holds good with the progeny of these combinations, i. E. , Dp can only marry one of class C--though neither the father nor mother ofDp could marry into class C; similarly for Cp, &c. 

4. Dp recognises as father or mother all members of classes A and B;similarly Cp, &c. 

This explains the seeming absurdity of the answer one receives fromnatives to questions concerning their relationships to others. An old man, for instance, may point out a young girl and say, "That one my mother, "for the girl belongs to the same class as his actual father or mother. 

5. All the progeny of classes A and B are brothers and sisters; similarlyC and D. 

Thus taking Dp2 to represent the progeny of an Ap and a Bp

 Af + Bm Ap + Bp --------- ------- Dp Dp2

All of class Dp recognise class Dp2 (though of another generation) asbrothers and sisters. For this reason there is no absurdity in a smallboy pointing out a very aged woman as his sister. 

6. A man may have as many wives as he can get, so long as these laws areadhered to. 

Let us now see what degrees of kindred are prohibited by these laws. 

Let us take the case of a man of class A. He can only marry a woman ofclass B, whose parents must therefore have belonged to classes C and D hermother being a C and her father a D. 

Therefore his wife's mother and father belong to classes with which hemay not intermarry. 

Therefore a man may not marry--

1. His mother-in-law. 2. The sister of his wife's mother. 3. The sister of his wife's father. 4. Nor the sister of any one of the three. 5. Nor can he marry his sister. 

But he may marry--

His wife's sisters (sisters by blood or tribal class). 

And as far as I can see, no law prevents a man from marrying hisgrandmother should he so desire. 

CHAPTER II

STURT CREEK AND "GREGORY'S SALT SEA"

The Sturt Creek presents many points of interest. It rises in theNorthern Territory, runs for nearly three hundred miles in aSouth-Westerly direction, and comes to an end in a large salt-lake, acrossthe border, in the desert. It runs throughout its entire length once inevery three or four years, though each yearly rainy season floods it incertain parts. In the dry season one might in many places ride rightacross its course without being aware of it. In the wet season such partsof it are swamps and marshes, over which its waters spread to a width offive and six miles. Permanent pools are numerous, and occur wherever aridge of sandstone rock runs across the course of the creek. On eitherside of the creek fine grass-plains spread East and West. The furtherSouth the creek goes, the less good is the country on the East side;presently there is no grass country except on the West side. Not farbelow the station the creek is joined by the Wolf, which, like allKimberley creeks, is fringed with gums, Bauhinia, and Leichardt-trees. From the confluence downwards a war between the grass-lands and thedesert is waged for the supremacy of the river-banks. For miles the sandychannel, cut out like a large drain through the country, less than onechain wide in places, is hemmed in on either side by desert gums andspinifex, and once out of sight of the creek the surrounding landreceives no benefit from the water. 

But lower down again, about the latitude of Mount Mueller, the grass plainsgain the day; and a very pretty bit of country they form too, especiallywhen the creek is running, as it was when we were there. In many placesits waters had overflowed the banks, expanding into clay-pans and lagoonsof beautiful clear water where teal and whistling duck disportedthemselves. 

The Wolf rises on the opposite slope of the watershed to Christmas Creekand the Mary River, and floods twice or thrice a year. Below its junctionwith the Sturt the combined creek takes on itself the character of theWolf, and at the point of confluence the Sturt may be said to end. Seeinghow seldom the Sturt runs its entire length and how small its channel isat this point, smaller than that of the Wolf, I think that it is to thelatter that the lakes (Gregory's "Salt Sea") chiefly owe their existence. However that may be, the combined waters fill but an insignificantchannel and one can hardly credit that this creek has a length of nearlythree hundred miles. 

On nearing the lakes the creek assumes so dismal an appearance, and sofunereal is the aspect of the dead scrub and dark tops of the "boree" (akind of mulga), that one wonders that Gregory did not choose the name of"Dead" instead of merely "Salt Sea. " A curious point about this lowerpart of the creek is, that stretches of fresh and salt water alternate. The stream, as we saw it, was only just running in the lower reaches; inplaces it ran under the sandy bed, and in this part the salt poolsoccurred. First we passed a stretch of clear, brackish water, then anearly dry reach of sand, then a trickle of fresh water lasting for ahundred yards or so; this would again disappear, and be seen lower downas another salt pool. 

The creek enters the first lake in a broad estuary; this lake is somefour miles long by two miles wide, lying North and South. At the southernend a narrow channel, 150 yards wide, winds its way into the large lakebeyond, a fine sheet of water, eight miles in diameter. A narrow belt ofopen country, overgrown with succulent herbage, fringes the margin of thelake; beyond it is dense scrub, with occasional patches of grass; beyondthat, sand, sandhills, and spinifex. In the distance can be seenflat-topped hills and bluffs, and rising ground which encloses the hollowof the lake. The lake has no outlet; of this Gregory satisfied himself bymaking a complete circuit of it. At the time of his discovery the lakeswere dry, or nearly so, and doubtless had the appearance of being shallowdepressions, such as the salt lakes in the southern part of the Colony;so that having followed the Sturt for so many miles--a creek which showedevery appearance of occasionally flooding to a width of five or sixmiles--he must have been somewhat uncertain as to what happened to sogreat a volume of water. However, the lake is nearly thirty feet deep inthe middle, and, from its area, is capable of holding a vast amount ofwater. The creek, below its confluence with the Wolf, is continuallylosing its waters, throwing off arms and billabongs, especially to thewest, which form swamps, clay-pans, and lagoons. So much water is wastedin this manner that near the entrance into the lake the creek is of amost insignificant size. The fall, too, is so gradual that the water runssluggishly and has time to soak away into the enclosing sand. 

Mr. Stretch tells me that it takes eight days for the water from rainfalling at the head of the Sturt to pass his homestead, which gives it arate of one mile per hour. Heavy rains had fallen at its source about amonth before our arrival, and the water was still flowing. We thereforesaw the lakes as full as they are ever likely to be, except in abnormalseasons. North of the lake are numerous large clay-pans which had notbeen flooded, and the lakes could evidently hold more water, and had doneso in time past, so that it is pretty clear that the lakes are largeenough for ordinary flood waters, and, with the outlying clay-pans, canaccommodate the waters of an extraordinary flood. 

I feel confident, therefore, that no outlet exists, and that beyond doubtthe Sturt ends at the Salt Sea, and does not "make" again furtherSouth, as some have suggested. Standing on any of the hills whichsurround the lake, some distance (ten miles or so) from it, one can lookdown upon the water, certainly five hundred feet below the level of thehills, which rise no more than eighty feet above the surrounding plain. It seems most improbable, therefore, that a creek should break its waythrough country of so much greater altitude without being seen by ColonelWarburton or myself, or that any connection should exist between the SaltSea and Warburton's Salt Lakes to the South-East. 

Had, however, the intervening country been of the same level as the lake, and flat instead of formed into high sand ridges and hills, there mighthave been a possibility of crossing a connecting creek of the samecharacter as the Sturt without noticing it. This question has been muchdiscussed by gentlemen interested in the geography of interior Australia, and therefore I have dealt with it at some length. 

CHAPTER III

OUR CAMP ON THE "SALT SEA"

April 2nd to 7th we were the guests of Mr. Stretch, and whilst restinghere Godfrey's eyes soon became well enough to allow him to travel. Onthe 7th, therefore, we set forth on our journey and bade adieu to thelast outpost of civilisation in the North. Our party was furtherincreased by a Sturt Creek boy, Tiger by name--a very smart andintelligent fellow of whom Mr. Stretch was very glad to see the last, forsmart boys are nearly always the most mischievous amongst the cattle. Warri and Tiger were great friends, and the new boy's presence put Warrion his mettle, and no amount of work was too hard for him whilst he hadTiger to show off to. After I had cut his hair and shampooed his headwith kerosene and soap, dressed him in trousers, shirt, and cap, helooked a most presentable youth. 

Mr. Stretch accompanied us down the creek for the first few days, duringwhich we passed some of his cattle and horses. The flies and mosquitoesworry the poor beasts terribly, and all day long the horses stand in thewater in pairs, or in a line, with head to tail, each one flicking theflies from his neighbour's face with his tail. This habit of standing upto the girth in water has given rise to a horse sickness known as"swamp-cancer. " The skin under the belly becomes so soft that at last araw place is formed, and this, aggravated by the flies, spreads until itbecomes a serious disease. Another horse-sickness common in the North iscalled the "Puffs. " A horse suffering from this pants and blows after theleast exertion, and in the hot weather his skin becomes puffy, and anyviolent exercise would be fatal. The Monk, one of our horses, sufferedfrom this slightly; as soon, however, as we had left the Kimberleydistrict and entered the desert he recovered entirely. Numerous smallfamilies of natives were camped along the creek, all accompanied by dogs, which gave us some annoyance at night; for salt meat, at first, should behung out during the night to get the benefit of the fresh air, and thisroused their hungry instincts. A few miles below the Wolf, Mr. Stretchleft us, and we parted from our kind host with regret--he to return tohis cattle, and we to the task of laying bare the richness (we hoped) orthe nakedness (we expected) of the untrodden land before us. 

At first we did very small stages, for the joy of travelling alongsiderunning water was too great to be quickly passed over. The camels andhorses became good chums very soon, and played about together without anysigns of fear or surprise on the part of the horses, although they hadnever seen camels before--a different state of affairs from that inCoolgardie, where horses as a rule snort and plunge with terror on firstacquaintance with an "emu-brother, " as the black-fellow calls the camel. As we neared the lakes we had some difficulty in finding water fit todrink, and camped about nine miles above the lakes, whilst Godfrey and Iscouted ahead to see if fresh water could be found lower down. Wesurprised two camps of natives, most of whom ran into the scrub as weapproached--several gins and a boy remaining. One of the women had a mostremarkable baby, quite a small thing, but with a tremendous growth ofblack hair, shiny and straight, altogether different from the ordinarycoarse hair of the aboriginal. They came with us, walking beside us as werode, jabbering and gesticulating in their usual excited manner, andinviting us to their camp, pointing to the rising smoke. Water, however, was our requirement, so we continued on our way down the creek, the boycoming with us. We shot a few ducks which our young friend retrieved, andhaving found a reach of fresh water just above the first and smallerlake, returned campwards, surprising a hunting-party on our way; theyretired quickly, the boy following them, taking with him the ducks whichwe had been at such pains to stalk!

The next day we moved camp to the fresh-water reach, and had not beentravelling long before a small tribe of blacks came round us, quicklyfollowed by our friends of the day before, and presently by more, untilwe were marching along with a wild escort of nearly a hundred, mostlymen; they were fearfully excited, though quite friendly, and with yellsand shouts danced alongside, waving their spears and other weapons. Inever heard such a babel, or saw such frantic excitement about nothing, or at least nothing that we could understand. Their wildness was temperedwith some fear of the camels, though with the horses they were quitefamiliar, even going so far as to hit poor old Highlander, that I wasriding, on the rump with their spears, a proceeding that he did notapprove of. "Womany, " "Womany, " "White-fella, " "Womany, " "White-fella, "they kept on shouting; if they meant to call our attention to thebeauties of their gins they might well have spared themselves thetrouble, for a more hideous lot of females I never set eyes on. Presentlyanother wild yell heralded the approach of a large band of "womany" whowaded breast deep across the creek, followed by their dogs swimmingbehind. These were no improvement on the first lot; all the old and uglyladies of the neighbouring tribes must have been gathered together. Theirdogs however, were worthy of notice, for they were Manx-dogs, if such aword may be coined! Closer inspection showed that they were not asnature made them. For the tails of the dingoes the Government pays fiveshillings apiece; as their destructive habits amongst sheep make thembetter liked dead than alive. A black fellow's dog is much the same as adingo--in fact must have descended from the wild dog--and has the samevalue in his owner's eyes with or without a tail. A stick of tobacco isfair payment for a dog's tail. Thus all parties are satisfied except thedog; and the Government is content to pay, not dreaming that"dog-stiffeners" (i. E. , men who make a living by poisoning dingoes) carryon so base a trade as bartering tobacco for live dogs' tails!

Our cavalcade still further increased by women and dogs, we proceeded onour way, until choosing a high sandy bank overlooking the estuary of thesmall lake on the South, the creek to the North-West, and a backwater tothe North, we halted and prepared to make camp. This was attended by somedifficulty, for our native friends, now in considerable numbers, evidently wished to look upon it as their camp too. They soon became sotiresome that I had to tell them through Tiger, as interpreter, thatunless they retired forthwith and kept to the other side of the creek, weshould take strong measures to remove them. Before long they had all doneas they were bid, and made their camp about a mile away across thewater--and the bulk of them we did not see again. Small parties werecontinually visiting us, and we were the best of friends. 

Our camp was in lat. 20 degrees 11 minutes long. 127 degrees 31 minutes, and here we stayed five days to give our stock a final rest, and regaleon luscious food and abundant water, before tackling the dreary countrythat we knew to be before us. For our own sakes we were by no means keenon leaving this delightful spot; the very thought of those sand-ridgesseemed to make one's heart sink to one's boots! Our camp consisted of abough-shade, and mosquito-nets, of course. Barring the constant tormentof flies and the extreme heat, we had a most enjoyable time. The lakesand creek abounded in wild-fowl of all kinds, and fish by the hundredcould be caught below our camp. Seen from our camp the estuary had somuch the appearance of a low-lying arm of the sea, with the tide out, that we could easily understand why Gregory called it a "sea" rather thana lake. Numerous sandspits stand out in the middle, on which, in earlymorning, so dense was the crowd of shags, pelicans, snipe, small gulls, whistling duck, teal, and other birds, that to say that there was acreupon acre of wild-fowl would not be wide of the mark; but in spite oftheir abundance they were not easily shot; for not only did their numbersinsure the watchfulness of some of the flocks, but after the first shotthe whole lot rose in a cloud and settled away out in the middle of thelake, beyond reach. 

Our larder was well filled here, and the natives took great interest inour shooting and fishing. I used to take Tiger as retriever when I wentduck shooting, and an excellent boy he was too, simply loving the water, and able to swim like any duck; to see him after a wounded bird was mostexciting; as soon as he reached it, it would dive until he would bealmost exhausted. At last he hit upon a similar plan, and, diving, cameup beneath the duck, seized it by the leg and brought it to shore, grinning with delight. A shot-gun would indeed be a treasure to thesenatives, who manage to kill pelicans and ducks only after hours ofwaiting, hidden in a hide of bushes until a bird comes near enough to bekilled by a throwing-stick. 

In some parts of Australia the natives swim out to ducks, concealingthemselves under a bunch of rushes and moving very slowly; the ducks arenot scared by the rushes, and fall a comparatively easy prey. From whatTiger told me the Sturt natives seem to rely solely upon waiting andstalking. They catch fish in a rather ingenious way, only practicablewhen the fish are in shallow water; from this they sweep them with a sortof dredge of branches, which they drag through the pools on to the banks;the water runs back through the sticks, leaving the fish high and dry onthe sand. The pelican is considered a great delicacy amongst the natives, and every day deputations waited upon us, asking us to shoot the "Coyas"for them, which of course we were very glad to do. They did not repay ourkindness very nicely, for they tried to inveigle Warri into their campfor the purpose of killing him, as a stranger meets with no greathospitality! I had sent Warri and Tiger out with a gun to stalk someducks when a number of blacks tried to get possession of the gun, firstby telling Tiger that they wanted to shoot an old man who had annoyedthem, then by tempting him with descriptions of the beauties of theirwives; but Warri was proof against all these blandishments--nor couldthey get the gun by force. I think Master Warri was quite glad to comequickly home, for he stood in some awe of the Kimberley natives; "Sulkyfella, " he called them. 

One day a fresh mob of blacks came in; amongst them we recognised our oldfriends from Jew's Well. They as soon recognised us, and appearedtremendously pleased. The old Jew patted me, and grinned, and squirmedin a most ludicrous way; I discovered that he was thanking me for havingcured his son's eyes--so the lotion had done its work well. As he and hisfriends sat round I made a sketch of the old man and gave it to him; itwas evidently a good likeness, for his friends went into shrieks oflaughter and delight. He was equally pleased, and more so still when Ilet him know that he could keep it. 

Shortly afterwards several men came up with great mystery and secrecy, and many looks behind them to see that they were not watched, and agreybeard amongst them presented me with a flat stick carved all overinto rough patterns; this was carefully wrapped between two sheets ofbark, and was evidently highly treasured, and given as a mark of respector gratitude for curing the boy's eyes. They also gave me throwing sticks, balls of hair string, a shield and tomahawk; and received numerous costlypresents from us--one or two old shirts, strips of coloured handkerchiefto make sporrans of, a knife or two, and so forth, and were perfectlysatisfied. A curious thing about the old Jew was that he had no name. Iquestioned him most closely through Tiger--but no! he had never had aname. He was promptly christened "Jacob, " which he repeated over and overagain, and seemed pleased with his new acquisition. Godfrey soon had someof the tribe trained in the art of fishing, and this amused themimmensely; the man to whom we gave the line and hooks, which we got inHall's Creek, will be much envied by his mates. There were quantities ofmussels in the creek, which the blacks devour greedily; we thought themmost disgusting in taste. Larger fish were reported in the big lake, butwe did not trouble them. The water of the big lake was far too salt foruse, though the natives were camped near it and drink it. It makes themsick, but they use it all the same, so we were told. What happens to allthe natives when the lake dries I cannot say; no doubt they scatter farand wide, and meet when the floods come down, for ceremonies, corroborees, and such-like amusements. 

I collected a few words which I look upon as reliable. Nothing would beeasier than to make a whole dictionary, for the natives are always readyto talk, but I have only taken words which I got from one and tested withothers with good results. 

 ENGLISH. ABORIGINAL. 

 Gregory's "Salt Sea. " Burro. Fresh water. Nappa or Yui. Salt water. Murraba. * Creek. Gilli. Fire. Warru or Wallu. ** Fish. Yagu. Mussel. Bimbirri. Pelican. Coya. Whistling duck. Chibilu. *** Moon. Yungun. Star. Gigi. Southern Cross. Wun-num. 

* Hunt's Slate Well, near Lake Lefroy, Coolgardie Goldfield, which issometimes salt, is called by the natives Murrabi. ** Same as at Empress Spring and throughout desert. *** In imitation of the bird's cry. 

CHAPTER IV

DESERT ONCE MORE

April 20th we left our camp on the lake, steering due East to cut a creekwhich enters on the North-East corner; the creek was dry, and the natureof its shingly bed inclined me to think that it has its rise inauriferous country. Close by the creek we found a shallow clay-pan, andas the next day would probably see us in the desert I had every availablewater-carrying vessel filled. Tiger worked well, but a friend of his, whohad come with us so far, watched the proceedings with suspicion. On being questioned as to waters to the South-East, he was mostpositive as to their non-existence, and evidently frightened Tigerso much by his dreadful account of the country that he decided onreturning home--for the next morning both he and his friend haddisappeared. I was very sorry, for he was a smart lad, and now wewere a bit short-handed. Pursuit was of course useless, for he had toogreat a start, and would soon be lost amongst his tribesmen. He hadworked so well that I never suspected him of wishing to go. I fear hewill spear Mr. Stretch's cattle after all!

Fully loaded with water, we left the lakes, steering towards Mount Wilson(Gregory); the heat was great, and the flies worse than we had beforeexperienced. 

Riding ahead steering was most unpleasant; one hand for the compass, onefor the bridle, left nothing with which to frighten the flies from thecorners of my eyes, which became quite raw in consequence. Certainlyriding is a great improvement on walking, and I prayed that the horseswould long be spared to us. Once through the dense scrub surrounding thelake, and our old friends sand and spinifex lay before us. Crossing anopen plain, we reached Mount Wilson, from which the lake was plainlyvisible, at a greatly lower level. This hill is the highest in a littlebroken range of barren sandstone hills, peaks, knobs, and cliffs of allmanner of shapes and sizes. To the eastward stony tablelands can be seen, running from which I noticed what I took to be a creek. 

At this point it is interesting to see what Gregory's impressions were ofthe country ahead. This was the furthest point he reached in 1856, havinglanded an expedition on the Northern coast and travelled up the VictoriaRiver on to the head-waters of the Sturt Creek, and down that creek toits end. He says: "From the summit of the hill (Mount Wilson) nothing wasvisible but one unbounded waste of sandy ridges and low, rocky hills, which lay to the South-East of the hill. All was one impenetrabledesert; . . . The vegetation on this part of the country was reduced to afew stunted gums, hakea bushes, and Triodia (spinifex), the wholeextremely barren in appearance. . . The remaining portion of the horizonwas one even, straight line: not a hill or break of any kind, and exceptthe narrow line of the creek, was barren and worthless in the extreme, thered soil of the level portions of the surface being partially clothedwith Triodia and a few small trees, or rather bushes, rendering the long, straight ridges of fiery-red, drifting sand more conspicuous. "

So Gregory retraced his tracks up the Sturt Creek, and when one remembersthat he had horses, one can only say, "And a good judge too. "

Leaving Mount Wilson we steered East and cut the creek that I had seen, and were glad to find feed near it for both horses and camels. I walkedit up to its head, and found a little rocky pool of water, returningafter dark. Breaden and Warri had been out too, but found nothing. Havingwatered the animals, next morning, the 22nd, I steered a course to takeus through a piece of country previously traversed by Warburton, withLake White (a dry salt-lake) as our goal, for round it I hoped to findcreeks and clay-pans. I depended on none of Warburton's waters, though hehad some marked on his chart, since I knew that doubts existed as to theaccuracy of his positions, and I preferred to rely upon our own methodsof finding water rather than to waste time in hunting for wells that wemight not find. For the next few days we were crossing spinifex plainsand passing distant hills and tablelands of sandstone. The days were veryhot, but since rising from the hollow of the lake the nights had becomevery much cooler. We had come so suddenly into desert country that theanimals gave us great trouble, being unable, poor things, to find anyfood. Late starts were the order of the day, camels having wandered milesin one direction followed by Breaden and Warri, and the horses in anotherfollowed by me. 

On the 23rd we found ourselves again amongst the sand ridges, high, red, and steep; we were now in lat. 20 degrees 30 minutes, and from that dateand point this awful country continued almost without a break, ridgesucceeding ridge with perfect regularity and running, as before, deadacross our route, until we reached lat. 24 degrees 45 minutes on June2nd--a period of forty one days, during which we travelled 451 miles. Thusit will be seen that in the far eastern portion of the Colony the ridgesof drift-sand extend over a greater length of country than in the centre;and consequently our return journey was accomplished with greaterdifficulties before us, and with an almost total lack of feed for ourstock--less even than on the first trip but to balance these drawbacks wehad cool nights, lighter equipment, and the advantage of previousexperience--and the incentive of knowing that our rations would not lastout unless we made all speed. 

On the 24th we crossed a range of barren hills, which I named the GordonHills, after our friends of Flora Valley. In the neighbourhood Godfreypicked up a perfectly white egg, somewhat resembling that of an emu, which lay upon a hummock of spinifex; presumably it had been bleached bythe sun. From the hills to the S. S. W. , across high ridges of sand, can beseen a range apparently of some altitude, distant some twenty-five miles;this I named the Stretch Range, after our kind host of Denison DownsStation. From the Gordon Hills we continued on our course for a smoke wehad sighted the day before, and before long picked up two fresh tracks, which we followed. From some stony rises a large, prominent hill cameinto view, as if formed of three great steps of bare rock. This I namedMount Elphinstone, after my cousin, and towards it we shaped our course, still on the tracks. 

That night we were again forced to camp on a barren spot, and again ouranimals wandered far afield. Unless absolutely necessary, I have a greatobjection to tying them up at nights, for then they are sure beyondquestion of getting nothing to eat; whereas wandering they may find apatch of herbage or bushes. That night we saw the fire of a native campand heard distant screams. In the morning a mob of blacks passed our campall unaware of our presence; Breaden and Warri were hunting the camelsand I the horses. As soon as I brought them in we followed and stoppedsome of the natives, and they returned with us to camp and presentlydecoyed others who were passing. 

There was nothing remarkable about these savages except that they weretall and well-made and fairly friendly. One had the skin disease fromwhich we had noticed others suffering. An old man, and a young, ratherhandsome, buck came with us and went ahead as guides. Their camp hadbeen, as is the rule, on the top of a sand-ridge--chosen, no doubt, as aposition suitable for watching the approach of others. A four-mile stagebrought us to a nice little oasis--a small area of grass, surrounded byti-trees, enclosed by two sand-ridges. In the centre of the grass threegood soaks, in black, sandy soil, yielded sufficient for all our needs atthe expenditure of but little labour. The horses appreciated the change, and unless we had given them water in instalments would have assuredlyburst themselves. They drank in all sixteen gallons apiece! Seeing thatthey had never been in anything but good country all their lives, andthat now we had suddenly come out of it into the howling waste, theyshowed satisfactory endurance, having been eighty hours with only sixgallons of water each during that time. What English thoroughbred couldhave done this?

The next day Breaden and I rode up to Mount Elphinstone, which we foundto be formed of three great rocky shoulders of sandstone capped withquartzite, almost bare, and stony on the top, with sheer faces onehundred feet high on the West side and a gradual slope to the East, wherehigh sand-ridges run right up to the foot. From the summit a hightableland [Probably Musgrave Range (Warburton)] and range can be seen tothe North, to the East a bluff-ended tableland, [Probably Philipson Range(Warburton)] but the horizon from South-East to South-West was a deadlevel. 

One mile due West of the highest point we found a native well in a sandygutter, and about 150 yards from it, to the East, a high wall of barerock as regular as if it had been built. This wall, seen edge-on from theNorth-West, from which point Breaden sighted it when after the camels, appears like a chimney-stack. 

As the soaks at which we were camped have the appearance of being morepermanent than the usual native well, it may be useful to give directionsfor finding them from Mount Elphinstone. Leave hill on bearing 230degrees, cross one sand-ridge close to hills, then spinifex plain, thenanother sand-ridge running East and West, from the crest of which can beseen three gaps in the next one--steer for most Westerly gap, and sevenmiles from the hill the soaks will be found. Having no time for furtherinvestigation, we returned to camp, and to ensure an early start tied thecamels down for the night, since they had been feeding all day. Blueyagain proved to be a vicious brute, and kicked me in the chest, knockingme down; but the other new camels daily improved in their manners. We hadgreat trouble in cleaning off from their backs the clay with which theywere smeared, having rolled in some shallow clay-pans near the lakes. Itwas most necessary to scrape it off somehow, as otherwise sore backswould have resulted; and, indeed, Stoddy's sore back started in this wayby the friction of the saddle and the caked mud. 

The country ahead looked so bad that I decided to take the two bucks withus for as long as they knew the waters, so secured the one to the otherby the neck, with plenty of spare chain between. They marched with usapparently perfectly happy, and even anxious to point out the directionsof various native wells. My object was to make as much Southing aspossible whilst we could; so having two natives and one hundred gallonsof water (of which the horses were given three gallons each nightly), westeered due South from the soaks, and had a long day of tremendously steepsand-ridges, up the North side of which the camels climbed withdifficulty. Riding the camels was out of the question, so we took thehorses in turn, Breaden and I steering hour about. Though crossing freshtracks and though the bucks were most anxious to follow them, we did notturn from our course, for we had only left water the day before, and asour rations were calculated to just, and only just, last out, no timecould be wasted. For the same reason we were travelling longer hours. 

Our camp of the 28th was in lat. 21 degrees 4 minutes long. 128 degrees 33minutes, and ahead of us to the South-West three miles distant was a rangeof barren sandstone hills, for which we steered; the old man, thoughcontradicted by the young one, promising "gilli nappa, " or creek water. However, he fooled us, and after much climbing we reached a small, drywell in a narrow gorge, quite inaccessible for camels. 

It was now the young man's turn, who, seeing that we were not bestpleased with his mate's efforts, by every sort of sign assured us thatwater existed in another range to the East. So turning in that directionover monstrous high ridges, crossing them obliquely, in five miles we cuta small watercourse, and following it up to its head found ourselves onthe top of a range of barren sandstone hills, over which were dottedwhite-stemmed stunted gums--a most desolate place. The travelling wasvery trying to the camels, who were continually missing their footing onloose boulders and stones, in the bed of the creek. Sheer steps in therock on either hand precluded us from marching over the hills, exceptingup the watercourse. 

From the summit, other similar hills could be seen to the East--hills ofquite a respectable height, all bare and rocky. Numerous small gorges andglens head from the East watershed; without any hesitation our guidesstarted down one, and before long we came to a little pool in the rockybed. Here we watered our animals and replenished our tanks and bags;and a nice job we had to make some of the camels approach the pool; oneither side were steep cliffs, and to reach the water numerous cracksand gaps in the bed-rock had to be crossed, not wide or deep, butsufficiently so to scare Bluey and some of the others. The open desertlife seems to make camels, and horses too, very nervous when anythingthe least unusual has to be faced. The echoes amongst the rocks, andthe rather gloomy gorges, seemed to make them "jumpy"; a stonerattling down behind them would be sufficient to cause a panic. Leaving the pool, we followed the gorge until it ran out as a deep, sandy channel down the valley formed by the horseshoe of the ranges. The ranges I named the Erica Ranges, after one of my sisters. Allalong the banks of the creek splendid green acacia and grass wasgrowing, and a most inviting-looking plant standing some six feethigh, with greenish-grey stems and leaves, and a flower not unlikewallflower. Such a place at once suggested camping, and we wereproceeding to unload when Godfrey remarked that this pretty plant wasvery like a most deadly Queensland poison plant; he was not sure; I hadnever seen it before, nor had Breaden. The risk, however, was too great;it might be poison; I could see the camels eyeing its fresh charms, andit grew in such profusion that all would be devouring it in a fewminutes. So we packed up again and moved further on, much to the disgustof the blacks and the animals, for all were very tired. I collected somespecimens of this plant; if Godfrey had never been in Queensland weshould have been in a tight corner, for the Government botanist, Perth, says, "The plant in question is very poisonous. It is scientificallyknown as GASTROLOBIUM GRANDIFLORUM, occurs throughout the dry, tropicalportion of Australia, and is commonly known as 'Desert poison, ''Australian poison, ' and 'Wallflower poison bush. '"

Near Mount Bannerman, where our camels were poisoned on the upgoingjourney, this plant was not growing. The suspected plants I collected, but unfortunately the specimens were mislaid or lost. In such country asthis one has one's whole mind and energies concentrated on how best tocover the ground; and what with well-digging, writing up field-books, observing, and so forth, one's time is fully occupied; I was thereforeunable to collect more than a few plants worthy of notice, sincethey formed feed for camels, or caused their death. My companionswere of course equally occupied. Besides the map I was able tomake of the country, I set great store by my photographs. Of these I tookover two hundred; owing, however, to defective plates, or rather films, many were failures, and nearly all that could be printed and reproducedare to be seen in this book. 

On the 30th we followed down the creek until it bore too much to theWest, and so far as we could see shortly ran out into the sand. From ahigh sandhill the next morning we got an extensive view. To the East, themain body of a long salt-lake extending as far as the eye can see to theS. S. E. Bounding the lake on the East is a high sandstone tableland, withabrupt cliffs facing the lake. Some eight miles to the North-East appearsto be the extreme point of the lake, but of course from a distance it isimpossible to say for certain. Except where the cliffs occur, the lake isenclosed by high red sandhills, through which it winds its way like astrip of sparkling white tinsel. Having no desire to court difficulties, I turned from this smooth-faced but treacherous bog, and, looking West, spied a fine bold range, a rugged-looking affair with peaks, bluffs, and pinnacles, suggesting gorges and water. I have no doubt that thislake is Lake White, of Warburton's, though my position for it is seventeenmiles East of that assigned to it by him. It is in the same latitude, and agrees with Warburton's description as to the cliffs and sandhills. 

After sighting this lake we turned West to the ranges, therefore had twolakes existed in this latitude we must have crossed the second, which wedid not do. Many things go to prove that Warburton's positions areincorrect; I think I can show how, by moving his route bodily on thechart about eighteen miles to the East, a more accurate map will result. My own experience alone would not be conclusive, except that my work fitsin with that of Forrest, Gregory, and Tietkens, where my route crossestheirs; but taken in conjunction with others it proves of value. Incrossing the Colony, Warburton failed to connect with Gregory's traverseat the end of the Sturt as he intended, and on approaching hisdestination (the Oakover River) expressed surprise that he had notreached it a day or two before. Therefore he was not confident of theaccuracy of his reckoning. 

Two parties, one led by Mr. Buchanan, a noted bushman, another by Mr. Smith, set out from the end of the Sturt to cross the desert, madeseveral unsuccessful attempts to locate some waters of Warburton's, though no distance away, and returned satisfied that nothing could begained by further travelling. Mr. Smith told me that he had located"Bishop's Dell, " but placed it due south of the Salt Sea instead ofS. S. W, as shown by Warburton. 

Mr. Wells eventually found Joanna Spring twenty miles East of Warburton'sposition. This correction is of greater value than any, since Mr. Wellsis considered one of the best surveyors in the South Australian Service. 

A combination of the above experiences shows, I think conclusively, thatColonel Warburton's route, at least on the West Australian side of theboundary, should be shifted bodily eighteen or twenty miles to theEastward. 

Considering the hard trials that Colonel Warburton and his party wentthrough, there is small wonder that he found great difficulty in keepingany sort of reckoning. 

From the journal of this traveller I take the following description ofthe country round the lake: "We found good feed for the camels here, butthe sandhills appear to be increasing in number and size. We have gotamongst the half-dried salt lagoons, so our further progress North-Westis cut off. . . We are quite amongst the salt-lakes, a large one lies tothe West of us, sending out its arms to every point. We must round theeastern end of them, as camels and salt-bogs don't agree at all. . . Wetried to cross but had to turn back. . . Country very bad, densespinifex, high, steep sand-ridges with timber in flats. Any manattempting to cross this country with horses must perish. . . A strongeasterly wind prevailed, blowing up clouds of sand and ashes fromthe burnt ground. Truly this is a desert!"

This was written when I was two and a half years old. The writer littlethought that an infant was growing up who would have no more sense thanto revisit this ghastly region; nor as far as I remember was the infantthinking much about sand! Dear me! how easy it was to get a drink inthose days--merely by yelling for it--but the strongest lungs in the worldcannot dig out a native well. 

CHAPTER V

STANSMORE RANGE TO LAKE MACDONALD

Shaping our course from the lake (Lake White) towards the highest pointin the range, which I named Stansmore Range after poor Charlie, we hadthe novel and pleasant experience of travelling with, instead of across, the ridges--if only we could have turned the country round at rightangles, or changed the North point of the compass, how nice it would havebeen! As it was, South we must go to get home, and take the ridges asthey came; our Westerly course was only temporary. For twenty-sevenmiles we steered W. B. S. , keeping along the trough of two ridges thewhole time, seeing nothing on either hand but a high bank of sand coveredwith the usual vegetation. The trough was flat at the bottom, and about150 yards wide. For ten miles we travelled between the same two parallelridges, then in front the butt-end of another appeared, as the troughwidened out. Deviating slightly to the South from our former course, wewere again between two ridges, one of which was the same that we hadfollowed along before. Then, again, in a few miles another ridge wouldstart, and altering our course again, this time a little to the North, continued our march between two fresh ridges, and so on. Thus it will beseen that the ridges, though apparently parallel, are not accurately so, and that one may be continuous for more than ten miles or so, when itends and another takes its place. 

On our march our captives cleverly caught a spinifex rat and a snake (oneof the very few that we saw); they greedily devoured both, and were muchpleased when Godfrey refused to partake of a piece of half-raw snake whichthey politely offered him. We discovered that they had a great liking forour beef-water--that is, the water in which our salt beef had beencooked--and made no bones about swallowing a couple of gallons of thisbrine-like soup. It had one good effect, for it made them most anxious totake us to water the next morning! The hills we found to be of the usualcharacter, barren sandstone, from which numerous rocky creeks have torntheir way through the sand. Following up a little glen, terribly roughand steep for the camels, we came at length to a fine pool, hemmed in byalmost sheer cliffs sixty feet high. Climbing to the top of these, Icould see that the same rough country extended for a considerabledistance to the westward, and that further travel up the glen wasimpossible; so we retraced our steps down the creek, on the banks ofwhich we found grass and bushes in profusion, and poison plant. Thisdrove us away into the sandhills beyond all harm, and, unfortunately, beyond all feed as well, nor had we time before night set in to cut andcarry any bushes for the camels, as we might otherwise have done. 

That night our camp was in lat. 21 degrees 25 minutes, long. 128 degrees20 minutes. The following morning I ascended the highest point in therange, whilst Breaden and Warri took our animals for a final drink up theglen. The lake was just visible, lit up by the rising sun, but I doubt ifduring the day it could be seen. From the range numerous creeks, nine inall, run Eastwards, one of which, I think, reaches the lake, aswith field-glass I could follow a serpentine line of gum trees. The restrun out a few miles from their head on to grass-flats timbered with largegums. The hills are of sandstone in layers, dipping to the West; theseseem to have been forced up into three-cornered blocks, the faces ofwhich have weathered away on the East side, forming steep slopes ofstones and boulders. Between the hills low ridges of sandstone runningNorth and South outcrop only a few feet above the surface, and areseparated by strips of white sand timbered with stunted gum trees. Thewhole scene has a most strange and desolate appearance. 

Returned to camp, I liberated the two guides, for I did not wish toinconvenience them by taking them beyond their own country. They werequite unwilling to go, and indeed waited until we were ready to start, and were most anxious for us to go to the East again. "Gilli nappa, "they assured us, was to be found, making their meaning clear by tracingin the sand a winding line to represent a creek; and when at the end Idrew a lake, they were highly pleased, and grunted and snapped theirfingers in approval. However, when I showed them that we were going dueSouth their faces assumed so dismal an expression, and so vehement weretheir exhortations to go in the other direction, that we concluded we hadno picnic before us. Had they had any intentions of coming further ourchange of course decided them, and they made tracks for the glen, bearingwith them many rich gifts. An empty meat tin and a few nails does notsound a very great reward for their enforced services, and yet they wouldhave been far less pleased with a handful of sovereigns; they could putthese to no use whatever, whereas the tins will make small "coolimans, "and the nails, set in spinifex-gum on the end of a waddy, will find theirway into a neighbour's head. 

We had really terrible country that day, during which we made nomore than nine miles. At first travelling was easy, as a flat beltof sand came between the range and the sandhills; later on, however, we were forced to climb up and down, now mountainous sandhills over onehundred feet in height, now jagged hills and breakaways of sandstone;dodging down little steep gullies, with the camels' packs almost touchingeach side, up steep rocks, or along their faces, until the horses andcamels alike were quite exhausted. Fortunately we were rewarded by a faircamp for feed, close by a noticeable bluff. We crossed nine deep creeks, in any of which, at their heads, pools may exist. 

Climbing the bluff next morning, I could see that the range curved roundto the South-East for some miles, possibly a great many. To continuefollowing round the foot would advance us but little; I therefore decidedto cross the range somehow. It was evident that any great extent of thisrocky country would soon place the camels HORS DE COMBAT, as every stepcut their feet, and every few minutes they ran the risk of a sprained orbroken limb; mules would be more suitable for such country. The furtherwe advanced the rougher became the ground, the narrower the little glens, and the steeper the rocks. However, one final and tremendous scramblelanded us all safely above the hills, and to our joy we found that a flatplain of spinifex spread before us. On it were clumps of mulga. Now wehoped we had done with the ridges. But no! more yet, in spite of hopesand prayers, and for the next two days we were crossing them at the rateof eighty-eight per eight hours. It really was most trying, and had avery bad effect on one's temper. I fancy my companions had the samedifficulty, but I found it nearly impossible to restrain myself frombreaking out into blind rages about nothing in particular. But the cursedsand-ridges made one half silly and inclined to shake one's fist inimpotent rage at the howling desolation. Often I used to go awayfrom camp in the evening, and sit silent and alone, and battle withthe devil of evil temper within me. Breaden has told me that he hadthe same trouble, and Godfrey had fearful pains in his head to bear. The combination of heat, flies, sand, solitude, the sight of famishedhorses, spinifex, and everlasting ridges, and the knowledge that thenext day would be a repetition of the day before, was enough to trythe sweetest temper; and I, for one, never professed to have such athing. Added to this we had the feeling that our work and energiescould have but a negative result--that is, the proof that the countrywas barren and useless; and yet its very uselessness made it harder totravel through. But with all this we never had a complaint or growlfrom any in the camp. About this time I again became deaf, which did nottend to make me any more patient. 

Another stretch of plain country, a mile or two in width, again raisedour hopes and again dashed them, as more ridges confronted us on theother side. A change of any kind is welcome, therefore the gloomy desertoaks were greeted with joy; for though their sombre appearance iseminently appropriate to a funeral procession, they give some shade andrelieve the eye. In due course we reached the burnt country for which wehad steered, and, after hours of tracking, singled out some footstepsgoing straight away as if to camp. Warri and I were leading, ridingHighlander in turn; on cresting a high ridge we saw before us a littleclump of mulga and grass, amongst it a camp of some dozen or morenatives. As soon as we advanced they all ran, except two men, who stoodtheir ground for a short space, then, throwing a stick and boomerang in amost warlike way, they followed their tribe. It was imperative that weshould have a fresh guide, so I followed on Highlander, and succeeded instopping the last man simply by wearing him out. He was a most diminutiveman, almost a dwarf, absolutely without ornament, not even a girdle ofstring, with a most repulsive face, and wall-eyes like a Welsh sheepdog. He was by no means afraid, and before long became friendly and returnedwith me to their camp. 

The tribe had left behind them a number of treasures--bundles offiremaking sticks, bean-and-gum ornaments, and the usual bark"portmanteaus" [Note at end of paragraph. ] containing hair-string, feathers, red ochre, and other knick-knacks. Amongst their weapons was acuriously shaped boomerang; on one of the woommeras was a rough carving ofeither a spider or crab. As soon as the camels arrived we unloaded and setto work on the well, "soak-sucking" in our old style. By morning we hadwatered the camels and horses. The former were of course pretty fit, but the poor ponies had done a fair stage, especially so since they hadhad no feed except the rank dry tops of the spinifex. May 3rd sunrise, to May 8th sunrise, they had travelled on what water we could afford themfrom our own supply, viz. , three gallons apiece nightly, and six gallonsthe first night. The grass around the well, though dry, was of greatbenefit to them. For the camels we had to cut down the mulga trees, thebranches of which grew too high from the ground to permit them to browseoff the leaves. A number of dingoes serenaded us as we worked at night;what they live upon is not quite clear, unless it be spinifex rats. Therewere other small rats in the locality, two of which the dwarf had forsupper--plucked, warmed upon the ashes, torn in pieces by his long nailsand eaten; an unpleasant meal to witness, and the partaker of it badlyneeded a finger-bowl, for his hands and beard were smeared with blood. He did not take kindly to salt beef, for his teeth were not fit for hardwork, as he pointed out to us; and salt beef is not by any means easy tomasticate. As a rule the blacks have such splendid teeth that the dwarf'scase is remarkable, seeing that he was not at all an old man. 

[* Note: A native bark "portmanteau, " brought back from this locality, was opened at Newstead Abbey and found to contain--

 1. Plumes of hawks' and crows' feathers. 2. Neck-bands of opossum wool. 3. String bracelets. 4. Fragments of quartz, suitable for spear and chisel heads. 5. Fragments of sandstone, for making red paint. 6. Message-stick. 7. A stick 12 inches long, wrapped in downy feathers and greasy string; on this was wound a great length of human-hair string, forming a bobbin-shaped article, the use of which I do not know. I have now three portmanteaus still unopened. ]

The Dwarf Well had a better supply than any we had seen, and it ispossible that there is some soakage into it from the surrounding country. It lies nearly five miles south of a low range of hills, the highestpoint of which bears 1 degree from it; to the North a sand-ridge, to theSouth a spinifex plain, six miles wide, then more ridges. I make itsposition to be lat. 22 degrees 19 minutes, long. 128 degrees 16 minutes. On the plain to the south are one or two small outcrops of ironstone andquartz, sticking up out of the sand, as if some hills other than sandstonehad existed, and become buried by the all-spreading sand. I carved C on atall mulga-tree close to the well. 

May 9th we left the well on a Southerly course, and were soon amongst theridges, which continued for the next two days. The night of the 11th, having skirted a line of rough cliffs, we camped about three miles Northof a very prominent single hill, which I named Mount Webb, after W. F. Webb, Esq. , of Newstead Abbey, Nottinghamshire. As the sun rose thatmorning the mirage of a lake of apparently great size was visible for90 degrees of the horizon--that is, from East round to South. Neither fromthe cliffs that we skirted, nor from Mount Webb, was any lake visible, butit is more than probable that a large salt lake exists in this locality, possibly connecting, in a broken line, Lake White and Lake Macdonald. Amirage sometimes appears in exactly the opposite direction from that inwhich the lake lies, but I noticed when standing on the Stansmore Rangethat as the sun rose Lake White was clearly visible, whilst when the sunhad risen a few degrees above the horizon the lake disappeared. I am ofopinion, therefore, that large lakes will some day be found to lie to theNorth-East of Mount Webb. Had we not been so pressed for time I shouldhave made a flying trip in this direction. Mount Webb is flat-topped, isolated, rocky-sided, innocent of all vegetation, of sandstone cappedwith quartzite, standing out with imposing clearness some five hundredfeet above a plain of spinifex and mulga scrubs. From its summit numeroushills and bluffs can be seen; to the South spinifex plains and ridges;to the South-East a tabletop between two bluffs; to the West a low lineof stony hills, beyond them a limitless sea of sandhills; to theNorth-West a broken range of peaks, and, far distant, a large hillswaying in the haze of heat. 

From the foot of the hill a hunting-fire was seen close by. "Gabbi, gabbi, " said the dwarf, greatly excited; and when we turned towardsit "Yo-yo-yo" in approval. As we silently approached we saw twoold hags flitting about, as nimbly as their aged limbs would allow, inthe blazing spinifex--now picking up a dead lizard, and now poking aboutwith their yam-sticks as if in search of some rat which had been roastedin his burrow. It is impossible to describe the look of terrific awe onthe faces of these quaint savages. Let us imagine our own feelings onbeing, without warning, confronted by a caravan of strange prehistoricmonsters; imagine an Easter holiday tripper surrounded by the fearfulbeasts at the Crystal Palace suddenly brought to life! What piercingshrieks they gave forth, as, leaving their hunting implements, they racedaway, to drop, all at once, behind a low bush, where, like the ostrich, they hid their heads, and so hoped to escape detection. 

It was almost impossible to gain the confidence of the gins: old ladiesseem so very suspicious. The dwarf somewhat reassured them, and aftermuch difficulty one was persuaded to show their camp--and such acamp!--perched up in the rocks on a little plot of sand, close by aminiature watercourse, and in this a small native well, so rock-boundas to preclude further opening out. And yet for this miserable affair wewere glad to offer up thanks, for the sake of the ponies. What labour fora few gallons of water, not so much as we use in our baths every morningin civilised countries! But no man could stand idly by and watch the mutelonging of his faithful horses. So freeing the dwarf and the old gin, afit pair, we set to work. All that afternoon and all through the night wedug and hauled and scraped, and by morning had the horses watered andtwenty gallons to boot. There had been eight or nine blacks at this camp, who, on their return from hunting in the evening, watched our proceedingswith intense annoyance. They stopped about one hundred yards away, and, yelling and shrieking, brandished their spears in a most warlike manner. 

That night they camped not far off, and, as on every other occasion onwhich we invaded their homes, I consider we owed our immunity from attackto the fact that work on the well entailed one or other of the partybeing up all through the night, thus acting as a watch. Had they knowntheir power they might have made things most unpleasant by spearing ourcamels. Fortunately it is only those natives who have come within thecivilising influence of the white man, that learn such little acts ofcourtesy. It is noticeable that amongst the treasures in this camp were agreat quantity of "letter-sticks, " which is evidence that the carvingson letter-sticks cannot be written messages, unless this camp was adesert post-office! If, however, the sticks are tokens, as I suppose, then one of this tribe may be a craftsman who carves distinctive symbolson each stick to order, and who had lately received a number ofcommissions for such sticks. It seems likely that one man or tribe shouldhave a special aptitude for manufacturing message-sticks, whilst othersperhaps make a speciality of hair-string or spears. Or again it may bethat the number of sticks, certainly two dozen, denote orders fromfar-off tribes, who wish to barter such articles as pearl-shells forperhaps spinifex-gum of a superfine quality. (I have noticed that thespinifex growing on the sandstone hills, particularly on the StansmoreRange, exudes a great deal more resin than that growing on the sand. )This bartering of goods is very remarkable, and here we found pearloyster-shells which must have passed from tribe to tribe for at leastfive hundred miles; pieces of glass, carefully protected by covers ofwoven feathers and opossum-string; the red beans which are found inKimberley, and, as Warri tells me, in the MacDonnell Ranges of CentralAustralia; a stone tomahawk-head, a dark green stone (serpentine); andbesides, numerous sporrans of rats' tails, feathers, nose bones, redochre, and a piece of the top part of a human skull polished and slung ona string. Certainly for its size this was the best appointed tribe we hadseen. 

The position of this well, a very poor one, is lat. 22 degrees 57 minutes, long. 128 degrees 20 minutes--one mile West of Mount Webb. 

Some good grass grows in the mulga scrubs which are dotted over the plainsurrounding the hill. Nine miles south of the Mount, sand-ridges, Eastand West as usual, are again met with; from the crest of one we saw thelast of Mount Webb, twenty-two miles distant. We now hourly expected toget a view of Lake Macdonald, a large dry salt lake discovered by Tietkensin 1889. Tietkens was Giles's right-hand man in all, or nearly all, hisjourneys--a man whose great services to his country have never beenacknowledged, because, I suppose, as second in command his name seldomappeared in the accounts of his leader's travels, and yet he shared hisdangers and troubles, stood by him in many tight corners, helped him nodoubt with counsel and advice; and though by his work--for Tietkens wasan eminent surveyor--many hundreds of miles of previously unknown regionshave been mapped, a grateful country has nothing to give in return! Weall know, though, how generous Governments are in such matters. Did notErnest Giles die, only the other day, in poverty and neglect? I know hehad a Government billet at 2 pounds 10 shillings a week, noble andgenerous reward for the best years of his life spent in toiling over thehowling wilderness of the interior! Doubtless all debts will beconsidered paid by the erection of a statue, and nine people out of tenwill not have any notion of who the man was or what he has done! Tietkensin 1889 led an expedition to determine the true extent of Lake Amadeus, the confines of which were marked as "probable. " His work resulted ingreatly decreasing the area of the lake, which now lies entirely in SouthAustralia. However, this side of the border he found the lake alreadymentioned, and, encircling it, returned to the point on theAdelaide-Port-Darwin telegraph line from which he had started. 

The lake is surrounded, at a distance, by numerous sandstone ranges andhills, the drainage from them no doubt forming it. Tietkens experiencedrains in this region; no such luck fell our way, and everything wasparched and drought-stricken. I was able to identify the Winnecke Hills, and one or two others, but, having only a small map of this part of thecountry, could not locate many points. 

Close to the Winnecke Hills we again surprised two gins hunting, and, amongst their spoils of the chase, were astonished to see a commondomestic black cat, evidently just killed. It must have wandered far fromhome! One of the women took us to their camp and small well, which was inso awkward a situation that I decided not to do any work upon it. Itsposition was in a very steep, narrow gorge in the sandstone, along whichthe camels could pass with difficulty. There was no feed for our animals, except at the mouth of the gorge a mile distant, and then there was butlittle. It would take three to work the well, leaving only one to lookafter the camp, and "tail" the horses and camels. Since the supply wasproblematical, the well almost inaccessible, and waste of time the onlylikely result, we passed on--the one and only occasion on which we left awell untried. Numerous natives must have been in this camp, for I foundno less than thirteen bark "portmanteaus. " As the gin had shown us thewell without demur, I left all these untouched. It was a struggle betweenhonesty and curiosity; but it seemed too mean to take things, howeverinteresting, when they had been left so confidently unprotected. And yetbirds' nests are robbed without any such scruples! I had no hesitation, though, in taking the gin with us, in spite of her unwillingness, forfamished horses must be relieved. Once across the hills the sand-ridgesbecame less high, were dotted with oaks, and even had some herbagegrowing on them. 

CHAPTER VI

LAKE MACDONALD TO THE DEEP ROCK-HOLES

On the 16th we had breakfast by moonlight, and were well on our waybefore daylight. From a ridge higher than the others we got the onlyglimpse of the lake that was permitted us by the sandhills. About twoo'clock, the gin, who had been making towards the Davenport Hills(Tietkens), suddenly turned off and brought us to a little well in thetrough of two ridges--the usual wretched concern, yielding no more thanthree bucketsful. We worked far into the night. Having to observe forlatitude I stayed up last, and baled the well before going to rest, leaving about two gallons in the bottom to allow it to settle beforemorning. At daylight we heard loud howls and snarls coming apparentlyfrom the centre of the earth. Further investigation disclosed a lean andfierce-looking dingo down our well, which, in its frantic struggles toget out, had covered up our little pool of water and made a horrible messof things. I never saw so savage-looking a brute, and, not feeling calledupon to assist it, I ended its troubles with a bullet--a kindly act, which doubtless, on their return, gave a welcome supply of cheap meat tothe tribe who had only lately retired from the well, and also added toour small store of dingo-tails, which (at 5 shillings each), so far as wecould see, would be our only means of deriving any profit from ourlabours. I think we only got five, and they were lost!

Our position there was lat. 23 degrees 26 minutes, long. 128 degrees 42minutes. The gin on showing us the well had been at once liberated, astep which I now rather regretted--but one cannot be unkind to ladies, even though they are black, naked savages, little better than beasts!Remembering that she had pointed towards the hills ahead, I steered onthat course, and before long we came on the tracks of a man, woman, andchild, walking in the same direction. Here I saw a pure white spinifexrat, leaping the tussocks in front of me, but of course had no means ofstopping it. 

All that day we followed the tracks, over sandhills, samphire-flats, through clumps of desert oak, past dry wells, from sunrise until sunset. Warri and I were ahead for in tracking it is better to be well inadvance--riding and walking in turn until Highlander knocked up and hadto be led. Breaden and Godfrey had awful work behind to get the camelsalong. At almost every sandhill one or other of them, usually Bluey, would drop and refuse to budge an inch until forced by blows. How thepoor brutes strain, and strain again, up the steep, sandy slopes; painfulsight, heart-breaking work--but work done!

We crossed the Davenport Hills shortly before sunset and waited on theother side for the main party, in case in the bad light and on the hardrocks our tracks should be missed. As they came up, we heard a distantcall--a gin's--and presently the smoke from a fire was visible. The Monkhad done the least work that day, and was the staunchest horse, indeedthe only one capable of more than walking, so I despatched Godfrey tosurprise the camp, whilst we followed. He rode right on to the tribe, andwas accorded a warmish welcome, one buck casting his spear with greatpromptitude. Luckily his aim was poor and the spear passed by Godfrey'shead. 

When we arrived on the scene I found Godfrey standing sentinel beneath atree, in the branches of which stood at bay a savage of fine proportions. He had a magnificent beard, dark brown piercing eyes, splendid teeth, adistinctly Jewish profile, and no decorations or scars on his chest orbody. I shall not forget the colour of his eyes nor their fierce glitter, for I climbed the tree after him, he trying to prevent my ascent byblows from a short, heavy stick which I wrested from him, and then withbroken branches of dead mulga, with which he struck my head and handsunmercifully, alternately beating me and prodding me in the face, narrowly missing my eyes. If he suffered any inconvenience by being keptcaptive afterwards, he well repaid himself beforehand by the unpleasanttime he gave me. And if it was high-handed treatment to captureunoffending aboriginals, we did not do so without a certain amount ofrisk to ourselves; personally I would far sooner lie down all nightchained by the ankle to a tree, than have my head and knuckles laid bareby blows from dead branches!

After a time I succeeded in securing one end of the chain round the wildman's ankle, and the other round a lower branch. Then I came down andleft him, whilst we unloaded and had something to eat. We had had a longday of over ten hours continuous travel, and as the sun had long set wedecided to take no steps for water-getting until morning. Being sure ofsoon getting a fresh supply, we gave what water we had to the horses, onwhom the desert was rapidly leaving its mark. As we sat on the packsround the tree, eating our salt beef, our black friend, with evidentwonder at our want of watchfulness, took the opportunity of comingquickly to the ground, only to find that he was tethered to the tree. Hisanger had now subsided, and, though refusing to make friends, he seemedgrateful when I bound up a place on his arm, where he had been hurt inhis descent from the tree. The spears of his tribe were of bettermanufacture than those of the ordinary desert man, having bone barbslashed on with sinews. The next morning we moved camp, as, from ourposition in a hollow, we should have been at a great disadvantage had thetribe returned to rescue their mate. We found their well, a deeprock-hole, half filled in with sand, on the southern slope of a stonysandhill, situated in a small patch of grass and buck-bush. From the hillabove the rock-hole, a prominent bare range of red rock can be seen tothe South bearing 172 degrees to the highest point (these are probablythe Warman Rocks of Tietkens). We were now within seven miles of theimaginary line forming the boundary between West and South Australia, thenearest point to that Colony our journeyings took us. 

At first we hoped the hole would prove to be a soakage, but in this wewere disappointed, and had to resort to our old methods of box-sinkingand clearing out the sand. Our work at first was comparatively easy, butas soon as water-level was reached a great wedge of sand fell in, andnothing remained but to clear out the whole of the cavity, scraping upthe water as we went lower. From 7. 30 a. M. On the 18th, until 2 a. M. Onthe 19th, then again from 6. 30 a. M. Until 4. 30 p. M. On the same day, weslaved away with no more than one and a half hours' interval. 

After digging out the sand and hauling it in buckets to the surface wehad a rock-hole nearly conical in shape, twenty-five feet deep, twentyfeet by fifteen at the mouth, narrowing in on all sides to three feet indiameter at the bottom. The first day and night we laboured until weliterally could no longer move, from sheer exhaustion. Breaden was socramped and cold, from a long spell in the wet sand below, that we had tohaul him out, put him in his blankets, and pile them upon him, though thenight was warm. The result of all this toil--not quite ninety gallons offar from pure water! What a country! one ceaseless battle for water, which at whatever cost one is only too thankful to get! Of the ninetygallons, sixty were distributed amongst the horses and camels, theremainder we kept for our own use and that of the horses when wecontinued our journey. Eight miles of sandhills on the 20th took us, under the native's guidance, to another rock-hole--full to the brim--itswater protected from the sun by an overhanging ledge of rock. 

Here we soon had the thirsty animals satisfied, and had time to considerthe rather comical aspect of affairs from the black-fellow's point ofview. How he must have laughed to himself as he watched us toiling away, coaxing out water drop by drop the days before, when all the time aplentiful supply was close at hand! Excellent grass surrounds therock-hole, enclosed by mulga thickets, so we rested here a day, shootinga few pigeons and enjoying the first proper wash since April 25th, whenwe last camped at a good water. Whilst travelling, of course no water forwashing could be afforded, as every pint was of some service to thehorses. 

This rock-hole is in lat. 23 degrees 44 minutes, long. 128 degrees52 minutes. On May 22nd we continued our journey, marching South overirregular sandhills, forcing our way through scrubs, until, on the eveningof the 23rd, we were in the latitude of the centre of Lake Amadeus, as itwas formerly marked by Giles. I was anxious to see if Tietkens had perhapspassed between two lakes, leaving an unnoticed lake on his left. We nowaltered our course to the West, sighting a large bare hill some fortymiles distant, which I take to be Mount Skene (Giles). This hill is closeto the high ranges, the Petermann and others, and it would havesimplified our journey to have turned to them, where good waters areknown to exist, but I desired to see what secrets unknown country mighthold, even though it might be only sandhills. 

This proved to be the case, and during the next six days we crossed themost barren wilderness it had been our lot to see, not a bite of food forcamels or horses, who, poor brutes, turned in despair to the spinifex andmunched its prickly spines--not a living thing, no sign of life, excepton two occasions. The first when, at the beginning of the stage, wecaptured a young gin, whom I soon released for several reasons, not theleast important of which, was that Warri was inclined to fall a victim toher charms, for she was by no means ill-looking. The second living thingwe saw was a snake, which we killed; how it came to inhabit so dry aregion I cannot say. Now that our course was Westerly, we had expected torun between the ridges, but no such luck attended us. True, we marchedbetween the SAND-ridges, but every now and again a ridge of ROCK runningexactly across our course had to be negotiated. Yet further, andsandhills thrown up in any irregular order impeded us, then loose sand;everywhere spinifex, without even its accustomed top-growth, drought, anddesolation! Native tracks were very scarce, even old ones; some of thesewe followed, only to find DRY rock-holes and wells at the end of them. 

We were all walking again now, ploughing our way through the sand, menand camels alike exhausted, and the poor ponies bringing up the rear, thetail-end of a miserable caravan. And they, following behind, were auseless burden; we could not ride them, and yet for their sakes oursupply of water became less and less; we denied ourselves beef (whichmeant at least a bucketful of water to boil out the salt) to keep themalive; poor faithful things, none but curs could desert them while lifeto move was left in their bodies. On the night of the 29th, for our ownsafety, I could allow them no water, for so great had been the drain thatour tanks had but a few gallons left. The next was a day ofdisappointments. All day we followed the same two tracks, from rock-holeto rock-hole--all were dry as the sandstone in which Nature had placedthem. We could see where the blacks had scraped out the sand at thebottom--if THEY could not find water, what chance had we? But every steptook us closer--that is the great consolation in such cases. First, haveperfect faith that water will eventually be found, then each forward movebecomes easy, for you know that you are so much nearer relief. Every dryhole gives a greater chance that the next will be full. 

Near one hole we came on a ceremonial or dancing ground--that is, acleared space in the mulga scrub, circular in shape, with a cleanly sweptfloor, trodden down by many feet. In the centre stood a sort of altar ofbranches and twigs. It was evident that the blacks had danced round andround this, though for what purpose I cannot say. 

As the sun set our faith was rewarded; before us in an outcrop surroundedby mulga lay two fine rock-holes with an ample supply. What a blessedrelief! In a few minutes the horses were gorged, and hard at work on therough grass near the holes. Hardy horses, indeed! Eight days from drinkto drink (not counting what we gave them), and hardly a scrap of feed. 

We took a two days' rest for the sake of the grass, and varied our dailyfare of salt beef with small, tufted pigeons, which came in large numbersto drink. We shot nearly one hundred of them, and ate boiled pigeon threetimes a day with the voracity of black-fellows. Nor was Devil-devilforgotten in the feast; he had become an expert rider, and had a farbetter time than poor Val. 

The curious fact of some rock-holes being full, whilst others a few milesoff are empty, again exemplifies the very local character of such rain asvisits these parts. The "Deep rock-holes, " as we called them (in lat. 24degrees 20 minutes, long. 127 degrees 20 minutes), are peculiar, for oneis perfectly cylindrical, two feet six inches in diameter going downvertically to a depth of twenty feet; the other goes down straight forsix feet, and then shelves away under the rock to a depth of at leasttwelve feet. It will be seen from our last few days' experience, and fromthat of the few days soon to follow, that in this region rock-holes arenumerous. They are invariably situated on low surface outcrops of 'desertsandstone, surrounded by mulga and grass; beyond that, sand. I take itthat they have been formed in the same way as the granite rock-holes inthe south of the Colony--that is, by decay; that the whole country hasbeen covered by a deposit of sand, borne by the winds, filling in formervalleys and hollows, leaving only occasional patches of rock stillvisible. Their frequent occurrence would then be accounted for by thefact that the deposit of sand is shallower here than elsewhere. That itis so is pretty evident, for here the sand-ridges are much lower thanfurther North, and still further South they disappear. Low cliffs areseen, and when the latitude of Forrest's route is reached, sandstonehills are numerous and rock-holes abundant. In the course of ages perhapsthe sand will again be shifted until such reservoirs as the "Deeprock-holes" are filled in and hidden, or partially covered and convertedby the natives into wells. Supposing a layer of sand to a depth of fiveor six feet could be thrown over the valley in which the Deep rock-holesare situated, the holes would at once be transformed into "Native Wells, "the term "well" being a misnomer, and apt to suggest a copious supply toany unacquainted with the interior. I suppose that to the uninitiated nomap is so misleading as that of West Australia, where lakes are salt-bogswithout surface water, springs seldom run, and native "wells" are merelytiny holes in the rock, yielding from 0 to 200 gallons!

From our position at the rock-holes, by skirting, possibly withoutsighting, the end of the Rawlinson Range and steering nearly dueSouth-West, we should hit off Woodhouse Lagoon of our upgoing journey. For simplicity in steering I chose a due South-West course, which shouldtake us a few miles to the East of the lagoon, two hundred miles distantin a bee-line. I was anxious to see what water it held, and check my workby re-crossing our track of the previous year; and besides this, thelagoon lay on our most direct course for the nearest settlements, still450 miles away on the chart. 

Whilst resting at the rock-holes I took the opportunity of giving Bluey alesson in manners, much to the entertainment of my companions. 

Bluey was a brute of a camel, and used to give an immensity of trouble inthe mornings, galloping off at full speed when he should have quietlywaited to have his nose-line adjusted. Added to this, he would kick andstrike with his fore-legs, so much so that none of us cared aboutcatching him. One morning whilst Breaden was after the horses, I washelping Warri collect the camels, and tried my hand with Bluey. At themoment that I was putting the loop of his line on to the nose-peg, hereared up and struck me on the chest, his hobble-chain adding power tothe blow, which sent me spinning on to my back. For this and otherassaults I meant to punish him, so shortening his hobbles until hisfore-legs were fastened with no more than an inch or two between, I armedmyself with a stout stick. As I had expected, as soon as I started to puton his nose-line, off he went as hard as he could, jumping like akangaroo, and I after him beating him the while. Round and round wewent, the pace getting slower and slower, until, amidst shrieks oflaughter and shouts of "The Leader wins!" "Bluey wins!" "Stick to it!"and so forth, from want of breath we came to a stop, and gazed at eachother, unable to go further. It was a tough run, and, like a schoolmastercaning a small boy, I felt inclined to say, "Remember, my dear Bluey, itpains me as much as it does you. "

The lesson had a most salutary effect, and never again did he gallop awaywhen being caught in the morning, though he was not a well-behaved beast, and always the first to give in in the sandhills, even though carryingthe lightest load. His good looks, however, were so much in his favourthat subsequently a wily Afghan paid me a big price for him(comparatively), and winked to some fellow-countrymen as if he had gotthe best of "Eengleeshman. " If he was satisfied, I am sure that I was. 

CHAPTER VII

THE LAST OF THE RIDGES OF DRIFT SAND

On June 1st we left the rock-holes on a South-West course, crossingirregular sandhills with the usual vegetation. 

On June 2nd we crossed the last sand-ridge of the great northern desert, and before us spread the rolling gravel-covered undulations of sand, treeless except for an occasional beefwood or small clump of mulga, rolling away before us like a swelling ocean. What a blessed relief itwas after the awful toil of crossing Heaven knows how many sand-ridges dayafter day!

Taking into account the country north of lat. 24 degrees 45 minutesonly--for though we had a long spell of sand-ridges between the edge ofthe desert and Woodhouse Lagoon, and again between that point and LakeWells, yet these were comparatively low and less steep than those furthernorth, and therefore their extent is not included in this reckoning--wetraversed 420 miles on the upgoing journey, and 451 miles on the returnjourney--that is, 871 miles of actual travelling over a desert of sandblown by the wind into parallel ridges of the height and frequencyalready described. It will be readily understood, therefore, that we werenot sorry to see the last of them! Working our way step by step, we hadso husbanded the marvellous powers of endurance of our camels that, inspite of the most terrible privations and difficulties, these nobleanimals had silently carried their loads day by day, up and down, overthe burning sand, maddened by flies, their legs worn bare byspinifex--carried them not without great sufferings and narrow escapes fromdeath, but yet without one of their number succumbing to the horrors ofthe region. Accident and poison had carried off four. And now, alas!another was to meet the same fate. Poor Satan, my faithful companion ingood times and bad, whose soft velvet nose had so often rubbed my cheekin friendship, was laid low by the deadly wallflower. In spite of all wecould do for him, in spite of coaxing him yard by yard, Warri and I--as wehad done to Misery before--for a day's march of over fifteen miles, wewere forced to leave him to die. We could not afford to wait a day, always onward must it be until another water is found, so, with a bulletthrough his head, I left him to find his way to the Happy Hunting-groundswhere there are no native wells nor spinifex, only flowing rivers andgroves of quondongs! All this about a camel--"a devil and an ostrich andan orphan child in one, " as we have been told--but remember that often inthe solitary bush one's animals are one's only companions, that on themone's life depends. How, then, could one fail to love them as friends andcomrades?

Shortly after the scene of Satan's death the mulga clumps became greaterin extent, until for half the day, and more, we wound our way throughdense thickets. The further South we went the thicker they became, untilall day long we marched through scrub, seeing no more than forty yardsahead, with packs, saddles, and clothes torn to pieces by dead and brokenbranches. We saw no smokes, no spinifex rats, no natives, no tracks butold ones, and these led us only to dry rock-holes. Time after time wefollowed recent tracks from hole to hole, and met with no success;sometimes we were just in time to be too late, and to see that the lastdrops had been scraped up by the natives!

On June 6th we followed a fresh track, and found a hole containing thirtygallons. June 7th and 8th, dense scrub. June 9th, open country, lakecountry, gum tree flats, and magnificent green feed, the first we hadseen since leaving Sturt Creek. On our right high sandhills, whosebutt-ends in the distance had the appearance of a range of hills; on ourleft thickets of mulga, and beyond, a sandstone range. Kangaroo trackswere numerous, but none very fresh; these and the number of birds gave ushopes of water. We must find some soon, or not one horse could survive. Poor ponies! they were as thin as rakes, famished and hollow-eyed, theirribs standing out like a skeleton's, a hat would almost hang on theirhip-joints--a sorry spectacle! All day we searched in vain, the animalsbenefiting at least by the green herbage. Ours was a dismal camp now atnights. What little water we could spare to the horses was but as a dropin the ocean. All night long they shuffled about the camp, poking theirnoses into every pack, overturning dishes and buckets, and, findingnothing, stood with sinking heads as if in despair. Our water-casks hadto be guarded, for in their extremity the horses could smell the water, and even went so far as to pull out the wooden bung, with their teeth!Warden, the small pony, was a special offender in this respect. It isquite startling to wake suddenly in the night and find a gaunt, ghost-like horse standing over one, slowly shaking his head from side toside, mournfully clanging his bell as if tolling for his own death. Thenat other times one heard the three bells sounding further and furtheroff. This meant a hasty putting on of boots and wakening a mate to stirup the fire and make it blaze; then, following the sound through thedarkness, one came up with the deserters, shuffling along in single file, with heads to the ground, turning neither to right or left, justtravelling straight away in any direction as fast as their hobblesallowed. Heaven knows how far they might go in a night unless stopped intime and dragged back to camp. Indeed blankets do not mean sleep, withdry horses in the camp!

On the 10th The Monk, our best horse, fell, and was dead in a minute--rundown like a clock. The other two followed slowly behind. Presently. Asalt-lake [This I named Lake Breaden], enclosed by sandhills, barred ourway--a cheerful sight indeed! Hung up in its treacherous bogs, withnearly empty tanks, dying horses and tired camels, what chance had we?Speculation of this kind must not be indulged in; time enough to cry outwhen the troubles come. Providence was with us as guide, and across thelake we dodged from sand-spit to sand-spit until we had beaten it, and notone animal was bogged. 

The night of the 10th our supply was down to three gallons. None could bespared for the horses now, none could be spared for beef-boiling, only alittle for bread, and a drop each to drink. Every rock-hole we hadseen--but one--was dry. Alexander Spring would be dry. We should have tomake for the Empress Spring, fifty miles beyond. Every thing pointed tothe probability of this sequence of events, therefore the greatest caremust be exercised. The horses would die within a few miles, but thecamels were still staunch in spite of the weakening effect of thesand-ridges, so there was no need for anxiety. Yet we could not helpfeeling anxious; one's nerves get shaky from constant wear and tear, fromwant of food and rest. We had been in infinitely worse positions thanthis; in fact, with health and strength and fresh camels no thought ofdanger would have been entertained, but it is a very different matterafter months of constant strain on body and mind. Faith--that is thegreat thing, to possess--faith that all is for the best, and that allwill "pan out" right in the end. 

The days were closing in now, the nights were cold, so we were awaybefore sunrise, and, leaving the rolling sand, came again into mulgathickets, with here and there a grassy flat, timbered with bloodwoods--thetail end of a creek no doubt rising in the sandstone cliffs we had seenahead of us. Shortly after one o'clock a sight, that brought more joy tous than to any Robinson Crusoe, met our eyes--a track, a fresh footprintof a gin. Whether to follow it forward or back? That was the question. Onthis might hang more than the lives of the horses. In nine cases out often it is safer to follow them forward--this was the tenth! "Which way?"said Godfrey, who was steering. "Back, " said I, for what reason I cannotsay. So back we followed the lady to see where she had camped, twistingand turning, now losing her tracks, and, casting, finding them again, until we were ready to stamp with impatience and shout D--n the woman!why couldn't she walk straight? Two hours brought us our reward, when anopening in the scrub disclosed a deep-banked creek, fringed withwhite-stemmed gums, and, beyond, a fire and natives camped. They all ran, nor did we care, for water must be there. Glorious sight! a small andgreen-scummed puddle, nestling beneath the bank, enclosed by a bar ofrock and the bed of shingle. Before many minutes we had the shovels atwork, and, clearing away the shingle and sand, found a plentiful supply. All HAD ended well, and just in time to save the horses. Considering thewant of feed, and the hardships they had already suffered, they had donea remarkable stage. A stage of eleven days (from the evening of May 31stto the evening of June 11th)--a distance of 160 miles on the map, and agood many more allowing for deviations, during which they had but littlewater. We had brought them through safely, but at the cost of how muchtrouble to ourselves may be judged from previous pages and the followingfigures. We left the Deep rock-holes with exactly 102 gallons of water;decrease by breaking through the scrub must have been considerable, as wehad nearly thirty gallons of this amount in canvas bags. 

Added to this must be the 30 gallons we got from the small rock-hole--thatis, 132 gallons in all. Of this supply the horses had 6 gallons each thefirst night, 3 gallons each subsequently until the day The Monk died andtheir ration was stopped. From 132, we take 90 (the horses' share). This leaves 42 gallons for four men and a dog (which drinks as much asa man) for eleven days; this supply was used for washing (an item hardlyappreciable), bread-making, drinking, and beef-boiling, the last the mostruinous item; for dry-salted beef is very salt indeed, and unless boiledthoroughly (it should be boiled in two waters) makes one fearfullythirsty. What would otherwise have been an easy task was made difficultand uncomfortable by the presence of the horses, but we were wellrewarded by the satisfaction of seeing them alive at the finish. 

CHAPTER VIII

WOODHOUSE LAGOON REVISITED

June 12th, 13th, 14th, we rested at the welcome creek and had time toexamine our surroundings. I made the position of our camp to be in lat. 26 degrees 0 minutes, long. 125 degrees 22 minutes, and marked a gum treenear it with C7. Therefore I concluded that this was the Blythe Creek, ofForrest; everything pointed to my conclusion being correct, excepting thefailure to find Forrest's marked tree, and to locate his SutherlandRange. However, the bark might have grown over the marking on thetree--and several trees showed places where bark had been cut out by thenatives for coolimans, and subsequently closed again--or the tree mighthave been burned, or blown down. As to the second, I am convinced thatForrest mistook the butt-ends of the sand-ridges cut off by Lake Breadenfor a range of hills, for he only saw them from a distance. The creekheads in a broken sandstone range of tabletops and cliffs; from its headI sighted a peculiar peak, about nine miles distant, which I took to beForrest's "Remarkable Peak, " marked on his map. From the sketch that Imade, Sir John recognised the peak at once. From the cliffs the sandhillsround Lake Breaden look exactly like a range of hills "covered, " asForrest said, "with spinifex. " Another proof of the non-existence of, atall events, the northern portion of the Sutherland Range, is afforded byBreaden's experience. As I have already stated, he accompanied Mr. Carr-Boyd on a prospecting trip along this part of Forrest's Route. Fromhis diary I see that they passed about three miles North of Forrest'speak, which Breaden identified, though by Mr. Carr-Boyd's reckoning theyshould have been twenty miles from it. Travelling due West across thecreek on which we were camped, they found a large clay-pan, and were thenhourly expecting to cross the Sutherland Range. However, no range wasseen, only high sandhills. That Breaden's reckoning was correct was soonproved, for he and I walked from our camp and six miles West found thebig clay-pan and their camel tracks. The lagoon was dry, though they hadfound it full of water. It is clear, therefore, that the range existsonly as sandhills, north of lat. 26 degrees 0 minutes. Numerous othercreeks rise in the broken range, and no doubt their waters, after rain, find their way into Lake Breaden. 

Our camp was on the longest of them, though others that I followed downwere broader. Above our camp, that is to the South-East, a ledge of rockcrossed the creek forming a deep little pool which would hold plenty ofwater. I much regretted being unable to find Forrest's tree--but a treeunless close to some landmark is not easily come upon--as at its foot heburied a bottle holding letters and his position for that camp. 

We saw no more of the natives who had been camped on the creek, but leftsome articles that should be of great use to them. Everything of weightthat was not absolutely necessary was left here, and this included anumber of horseshoes. 

On, the 15th we were ready to start, and marched on a West-South-Westcourse until we should sight Mount Worsnop, and turn West to theWoodhouse Lagoon. A mile and a half from our camp we crossed anothercreek, and on its banks a tree marked G. H. S. , and NARROO cut in the bark. Evidently the prospectors had been pushing out in our absence, or else itwas another overland party from South Australia, for Forrest's route hasbecome quite a fashionable track, some half-dozen parties having crossedthe Colony in this latitude. On the next day we sighted Mount Worsnopfrom eight miles (from the East it is more prominent than from theSouth). This was a day of miracles! It RAINED--actually RAINED! The firstrain we had seen in the interior--not a hard rain, but an all-daydrizzle. How cold it made us, and how wet!--not that we minded that. Butthe winter was approaching, we were daily getting further south, and withour blood thin and poor, our clothes of the lightest and most ragged, accustomed to scorching heat, we felt the cold rain very much indeed. Ourteeth chattered, and our hands were so numbed that at night we couldhardly undo the straps and ropes of our loads. A cold night, accompaniedby a heavy dew, followed the rain; and for the first time on eitherjourney we pitched a tent. During this, Devil-devil, wet and shivering, sneaked into my blankets for warmth, for, as a rule, he slept outside, ina little nest I made for him in one of the camel saddles. Such suddenchanges in temperature made any "Barcoo" sores most painful; butfortunately we had suffered comparatively little from this unpleasantdisease. A beautiful sun dried and warmed us in the morning, and crossinga narrow salt-lake (probably a continuation of Lake Breaden), we reachedour old friend Woodhouse Lagoon on June 17th, nearly a year havingelapsed since our first visit, August 19th, in 1896. 

We were disappointed, but not surprised, to find the lagoon nearly dry, holding no more than six inches of water in the deepest place. Butcuriously enough Alexander Spring, found dry before, was now brimful, evidently filled by the recent rain, which had not been heavy enough tofill the lagoon. Here we camped for two days, which we could ill afford, as already we had to cut down our rations, and before long our mealswould dwindle to one instead of two a day. Godfrey's sicknessnecessitated a delay--he suffered from such fearful pains in his head, poor fellow! Often after a day's march he would collapse, and lie pronewith his head nearly bursting from pain. A drink of strong tea wouldrelieve him, but when water was scarce he had just to suffer. 

I had a splendid chance of replenishing our larder, and, fool that I was, I missed it. I was riding The Warden to the spring, when a kangaroopopped up on his hind legs, and sat looking at me. The Warden would notkeep still; the surprised kangaroo actually waited for me to dismount andaim my rifle, but just as I fired The Warden jerked my arm and I missed, and away bounded many a good meal--and with it the pony! So I continuedmy way on foot, and was rewarded by finding some interesting things. Abig camp of natives had been here in our absence; near the spring in thescrub was a cleared corroboree ground, twenty feet by fifty yards, cleaned of all stones and enclosed by a fallen brush-fence (this olderthan the other work, showing this is a favourite meeting-place). At oneend was a sort of altar of bushes, and hidden beneath them a long, carvedboard. This I took, and afterwards gave to Sir John Forrest. In everytree surrounding the clearing a stone was lodged in the forked branches. 

The pile of stones on Mount Allott had not been touched, nor had my boardbeen removed. On it I found an addition to my directions to thelagoon--an addition made by two prospectors, Swincer and Haden, who hadbeen in this locality two months after our first visit. I did not meeteither Mr. Swincer or Mr. Haden, but I heard that my board had been ofgreat service to them, for without it they would not have known of thelagoon, where they camped some time. G. H. S. Carved on a tree near theBlythe Creek was also due to them; I believe that was about theirfurthest point reached, from which they returned to Lake Darlot. On theirreturn they depended on a water which failed them, and they had inconsequence a narrow squeak for their lives. On nearing camp I metBreaden and Warri, who had started to track me up, for Warden's returnwith an empty saddle had caused a little anxiety. 

I observed for latitude that night, and was pleased to find that my twopositions for the lagoon agreed almost exactly, both in latitude andlongitude--a very satisfactory result considering the distance we hadtravelled. 

On the 20th we started again, steering a course a little South of West, my intention being to round the North end of Lake Wells, and cut theBonython Creek, with the object of seeing if another oasis, on oursuggested stock route from South Australia, could be found. It needhardly be said that any idea of a stock route from Hall's Creek isabsolutely impracticable. Between Woodhouse Lagoon and Lake Wells thecountry consists of low sand-ridges, on which grows an abundance ofacacia bushes and others suitable for camels, alternating with openspinifex plains, mulga scrubs in which good grass grows, and nearer thelagoon one or two small grass plains. All through cliffs and bluffs aremet with, from which small creeks ending in a grassy avenue run; and, asLake Wells is approached, table-topped hills and low ranges occur, andoccasional flats of salt-bush country. We had no longer any difficultywith regard to water, the rain having left frequent puddles where anyrocky or clayey ground was crossed. In the sand no water could be seen;indeed we had a sharp shower one morning, water was running down theslopes of sand, but half an hour afterwards no sign of it could be seenon the surface. On the 23rd we sighted, and steered for, a very prominentheadland in a gap in a long range of cliffs. Sandhills abut right on tothem, and dense scrub surrounds their foot. The headland, which I namedPoint Robert, after my brother, is of sandstone, and stands squarely andsteep-cliffed above a stony slope of what resembles nothing so much as ahuge heap of broken crockery. 

We camped at the head of a little gorge that night, having found a rockypool; the rain cleared off, out came the stars, and a sharp frostfollowed, the first of the year. The character of the country wasextraordinarily patchy; after crossing ridges of sand, and then an open, stony plain, on the 25th we camped on a little flat of salt-bush andgrass. Our position was lat. 26 degrees 20 minutes, long. 123 degrees 23minutes, and seven miles to the North-West a flat-topped hill, at the endof a range, stood out noticeably above the horizon of scrub; this I namedMount Lancelot, after another brother. The next day it rained again, making the ground soft and slippery. In the evening, to our surprise anddisgust, further passage that day was cut off by a salt swamp. Notwishing to get fixed in a lake during rain, we camped early, pitched ourtent and hoped for the rain to stop--an unholy wish in this country, butsalt-lakes are bad enough without rain! The next two days were spent intrying to find a crossing, for we found ourselves confronted by a seriesof swamps, samphire flats, and lake channels running away to the North asfar as could be seen by field-glasses--a chain of lakes, hemmed in bysandhills, an unmarked arm of Lake Wells. If we could not cross here wemight have to go seventy miles out of our way, round the South of LakeWells, and then back to the Bonython. 

CHAPTER IX

ACROSS LAKE WELLS TO LAKE DARLOT

Four attempted crossings ended in the hopeless bogging of horses andcamels, entailing the carrying of loads and saddles. At last we could notget them to face the task at all; and small wonder, for floundering aboutin soft, sticky mud is at least unpleasant! I am pretty confident that wecould have managed to get the camels through somehow, but the horses werefar too weak to struggle. Poor old Highlander sank to his belly, struggled for a minute just long enough to get further engulfed, and thenthrew up the sponge and lay panting until we came to his rescue. We had ajob to get him to the shore, and only succeeded by digging out two legson one side, putting a rope round them, then the same on the other, andby violent efforts dragged him on to his side. Then, one at his head andthe rest on his legs, we turned him over and over until we came on firmerground, when we put the ropes on his legs again and by main force hauledhim on his flank to the margin of the lake, where he lay half dead. Theothers fared but little better; it was evident that a crossing could notbe effected except at the cost of the horses. 

From a sandhill near our camp numerous hills could be seen, the moreprominent of which I named. To the West-North-West a table-top hill(Mount Courtenay, after my brother-in-law) standing in front of aprominent tableland; to the northward Mount Lancelot; to theEast-South-East a line of cliffs standing above stony rises, at thesouthern end a bluff point (Point Katharine, after my sister); and eightmiles to the South-South-West, two flat-topped hills, closetogether--these I named Mount Dora and Mount Elisabeth after two of mysisters. Little did I think that I was never to see again the dear faceof one of them! As a last hope, I and Breaden went across the lake tothese hills to look for a break in the swamps. From Mount Elisabeth anextensive view can be obtained, but no signs of the lake coming to anend. From Mount Elisabeth, which, by the way, is of quartzite, I took thefollowing bearings: Mount Courtenay 331 degrees, Mount Lancelot 23degrees, Point Katharine, 78 degrees. To the West numerous brokentablelands can be seen, and the same to the South. Clearly there was nochance of crossing this lake or rounding it on the North, for the whitestreak of salt could be seen for miles and miles in that direction. Therewas nothing to be done but to skirt the edge of the lake, and ifconnected with Lake Wells to skirt that too, until a crossing could befound. So we loaded up and steered East and then South-East to round theswamps. Due West of Point Katharine, four miles distant, we found a largefreshwater lagoon surrounded by stony banks and ridges. It contained onlya few inches of water, but is capable of holding it to a depth of sixfeet. Beyond it is a stony cotton-bush flat, and on it numerous whiteclay-holes of water, almost hidden by the herbage. 

Water-hens were so numerous that we could not pass by so good anopportunity, and camped early in consequence, spending the rest of theday in shooting these birds. The rest was a good thing for Breaden, too, who had been hurt by Kruger as he struggled in the salt-bog. The nextmorning we struck South, and by night found the lake again in our way. From a high bank of rocks and stones we could see the arm that had firstblocked us, running round the foot of the hills and joining a larger lakewhich spread before us to the South. Across it some high, brokentablelands could be seen. There was no doubt from our position that thiswas Lake Wells, but I had expected to find a tableland (the Van Treuer ofWells) fringing the Northern shore. However, the Van Treuer does not runnearly so far East as Wells supposed when he sighted it from the South. No crossing could be effected yet, so the next day we continued along themargin of the lake, along a narrow strip of salt-bush country hemmed inbetween the lake and sandhills. On July 2nd we found the narrow placewhere Wells had crossed in 1892; the tracks of his camels were stillvisible in the soft ground. The crossing being narrow, and the bogshallow--no more than a few inches above a hard bed of rock--we had notrouble whatever. 

We now followed the same course as Wells had done, passing Lyell-BrownBluff--from which Mount Elisabeth bears 339 degrees--and Parson's Bluff, eventually striking the Bonython Creek. This, as described by Wells, is aflat, shallow, and, in places, but ill-defined watercourse. In it are oneor two good deep pools, of which one is probably permanent. Fringing thebanks is a narrow strip of salt-bush and grass; beyond that mulga andcoarse grass. This narrow belt of good country continues down to thelake, and as we saw it just after the rain looked fresh and green. Thereis no extent, but sufficient to form a good resting-place for travellingstock. Some cattle-tracks of recent date were visible, a small wild herdof stragglers probably from the Gascoyne. Turkeys were seen in fairnumbers, but they were the shyest birds I have ever come across--so muchso that we never got a shot. The late rain had left so many pools andpuddles that we had no chance of waiting for them at theirwatering-place. One of the wild cattle beasts, amongst which must be abull, for we saw tracks of quite young calves, would have been veryacceptable, for our meat had come to an end. In consequence we wasted notime in further examining the Bonython, but made tracks for Lake Darlot. The days were getting so short now that, in order to accomplish a goodstage, we had to rise long before daylight and collect the camels andhorses, following their tracks by means of a fire-stick. In this way wewere enabled to get a start at sunrise, having breakfasted--inimagination!

Several parties of prospectors have been to Lake Wells, and at first wefollowed a regular pad; however, it did not seem to be going very direct, so we left it. Between Lake Wells and Lake Darlot--a distance of about130 miles--the country consists of open mulga thickets with a coarseundergrowth of grass, alternating with spinifex desert and sand. Occasional low cliffs and ridges occur, and nearer Lake Darlot numerousranges, from which the Erlistoun Creek takes its rise. Amongst thesehills we saw the first auriferous country since leaving the vicinity ofHall's Creek, and in the Erlistoun the first permanent water (probably)since leaving the Sturt Creek, a distance of about 800 miles. A narrowbelt of grass and salt-bush fringes the Erlistoun, and in the winter lookshealthy and succulent; however, a few months soon alters that, and in thesummer all is parched and yellow. How pleasant it was to see suchcountry, after the dreary desert! Tracks and roads were now numerous aswe approached civilisation. The same lake lay between us and thesettlement that had caused Conley, Egan, and myself so much trouble informer days. Choosing the same narrow channel where I had formerlycrossed, we managed very fairly well. Most of the camels bogged, but somedid not, nor did the horses, and our loads now consisted of little elsebut the saddles, and were therefore no great weight to carry. The weatherwas lovely now, bright warm days and frosty nights; unfortunately thistends to sharpen the appetite, which we had small means of satisfying. For the last ten days we had had nothing but damper, and not much ofthat, on which we spread tinned milk which had previously been discardedas unfit for use, being dark brown instead of white, and almost solid. Nevertheless it was better than nothing; a ten hours' march, begun on anempty stomach, and finished on a slice of bread, cannot be indulged infor many days before it leaves its mark. We were not sorry, therefore, toreach Lake Darlot township on July 15th, and, choosing a nice spot, madecamp. This day we saw the first white face since April 9th, and ourjourney was practically over. 

The excellent feed growing all over the flats near Lake Darlot gave us agood opportunity of recruiting our animals' strength. For nearly a monthwe moved slowly about between Lake Darlot and Lawlers prospecting in adesultory sort of way. Our departure from the former place was deeplyregretted--by the butcher, whose trade had increased by leaps and boundsduring our stay. "I never see'd coves as could stack mutton like youchaps, " he said, in satisfied wonder; "why, a whole blooming sheep don'tseem to last you a day; can't ye stop until I get some bullocks up thetrack?" Certainly that was the best fresh mutton I have ever tasted, andno doubt we DID do our duty by it. 

By degrees the camels fattened and fattened, until the combination offlesh and the hard muscles their work had formed, made it difficult tobelieve how great the trials were they had been through. The horses werealso getting less like skeletons, though they take far longer than camelsto regain their strength; as a rule, if they have been through greathardships they never do regain it and are, practically, uselessafterwards. Stoddy, whose back had been bad, was also recovering--thisthe only sore back amongst them after so many miles of country wellcalculated to knock both packs and backs to pieces. 

CHAPTER X

THE END OF THE EXPEDITION

By easy stages and frequent halts we eventually reached Coolgardie, afteran absence of thirteen months. Of these, ten and a half months wereoccupied in travelling, during which we traversed a little over threethousand miles. Of this, 550 miles was traversed by roads and tracks, whilst the remainder was through country beyond the limits of anysettlements. 

 SOURCES OF WATER SUPPLY. FOUND ON UPGOING AND RETURN JOURNEYS BETWEEN THE LIMITS OF SETTLEMENT. ----------------------------------------------------------------------

 Holding Nearly Quite Water. Dry. Dry. 

 Springs 2 1 Helena, Empress, and Alexander. (Forrest). Creeks 9 * Including Christmas, Janet, Mary, Margaret, and Sturt in Kimberley; Blyth, + Bonython, + Erlistoun. Clay-pans 2 4 Rocky pools in gorges 8 ** Rock-holes 3 3 21 Of these 4 were completely drained, and 2 left with water. Native Wells 8 3 22 Of these 6 were completely drained, and 5 left with water. 

 * Numerous small dry watercourses were seen. ** Numerous dry pools in rocky gorges were seen. + The only two in the desert area. 

 TABLE SHOWING CHARACTER AND EXTENT OF COUNTRY TRAVERSED. --------------------------------------------------------

 Upgoing Return Total in Journey. Journey. Miles. -------------------------- From edge of desert to Woodhouse Lagoon 220 MIXED COUNTRY including From Woodhouse Lagoon low sandhills, spinifex to edge of desert 260 plain. Desert Gum flats From end of Sturt Creek with occasional scrubs to Gordon Hills 50 and patches of grass ---- 530

 From Woodhouse Lagoon UNDULATING DESERT of to Family Well 370 spinifex, stones, and From Deep Rock-holes gravel, with occasional to Woodhouse Lagoon 210 scrubs. ---- 580

 From Family Well to Mount Bannerman 420 SAND-RIDGES. Desert of From Gordon Hills sand blown into to Deep Rock-holes 450 parallel ridges running ---- 870 on an average course of East and West, varying in height from 20-100 feet. 

 From Cutmore's Well to edge of desert. 100 COUNTRY OTHER THAN From Mount Bannerman DESERT, including open to Hall's Creek 150 scrubs with grass, open From Hall's Creek grass plains, belts of to end of Sturt Creek 160 grass fringing river From edge of desert banks, small oases, to Lake Darlot 50 and hilly country. Oases (Helena Spring, Woodhouse Lagoon, Lake Wells, &c. ) 10 ---- 470 ----- 2, 450 * 550 By roads and tracks. ----- 3, 000 ** -----* Of which 2, 210 were through country unmapped except where routes ofprevious explorers were crossed. ** Total mileage in round numbers, taking into account all deviations. 

From the above table it will be seen that the greater part of theinterior of the Colony seen by us is absolutely useless to man or beast. It is possible that between the Lake Darlot goldfield and the 25thparallel of latitude isolated areas of auriferous country may be found, though nothing that we saw proves this to be likely; and I base myopinion only on the facts that quartz and ironstone are known to occur inthe vicinity of Lake Augusta and the Warburton Range. It is also possible(and this I have already discussed) that a travelling route for stock maybe formed from South Australia along the 26th parallel as far as MountsAllott and Worsnop, and thence VIA Lake Wells and the Bonython Creek. Tothe Erlistoun Creek and Lake Darlot. 

Failing either the finding of gold, or the formation of a stock routefrom oasis to oasis, I can see no use whatever to which this part of theinterior can be put. 

North of the 25th parallel the country is absolutely useless until theconfines of the Kimberley district (about lat. 19 degrees) are reached. That a stock route through the desert is quite impracticable we haveclearly demonstrated. Even supposing that there was any water supply, there is no feed; nothing but spinifex grows in more than wee patches atvery long intervals. As any one who has followed me through this book cansee, our water supply was most precarious, depending as we did uponrock-holes and native wells (which at any time may be found dry), andthese yielded an only just sufficient quantity to keep no more than ninecamels from dying for want of a drink--every well that we found, with theexception of one or two, was drained and left empty. Indeed on our twojourneys there are only two watering-places on which I should care todepend, viz. , the Empress Spring and Helena Spring. Throughout our journeywe never once found water by chance--though chance took us to more thanone dry hole--but found it only by systematic and patient work, involvingmany scores of miles of tracking, the capture of the wild aboriginals, andendless hours of manual labour. Without having resorted to theseexpedients I have no hesitation in saying that neither we nor the camelswould be living today, for though without having done so, other partieshave crossed as great an extent of arid country, it must be rememberedthat our journey was accomplished through infinitely worse country, andwith a party exactly half as large as the smallest of the previousexpeditions across the interior. Where, with a large number of camels, itwould be possible to carry a great quantity of water and do long stages, using the water for camels as well as men, with a small number suchtactics as going straight ahead, and trusting to luck, could only end indisaster. 

It has been my fate, in all my exploration work, to find none but uselesscountry, though when merely prospecting on the goldfields I have beenmore fortunate. So far, therefore, as being of benefit to mankind, mywork has had no better result than to demonstrate to others, that part ofthe interior that may best be avoided. No mountain ranges, no rivers, nolakes, no pastoral lands, nor mineral districts has it brought to light;where the country was previously unknown it has proved only itsnakedness; nevertheless I do not regret one penny of the cost or oneminute of the troubles and labours entailed by it. Nor, I am confident, do my companions repine because they wasted so many months of their livesin such a howling wilderness. May good fortune attend them wherever theygo; for they were brave and true men, and to them I once more express myfeelings of thanks and gratitude for their untiring energy and helpthrough all our journeyings. I verily believe that so large an extent ofcountry, good or bad, has never been travelled through by a more cheerfulparty, or by one, the members of which were more in accord; and to theunanimity, and ready co-operation that prevailed throughout the camp, thesuccessful issue of the expedition must in a large degree be ascribed. 

Before leaving Coolgardie I had to perform the melancholy task of sellingoff my camels and all belongings. I have seldom felt anything so deeplyas the breaking up of our little band, and the sale of my faithfulanimals. However, it was a matter of necessity, for much as I wished topension off my favourites I was not in a position to do so, andeventually made my exit from the Colony in much the same state as that inwhich I arrived. 

Before leaving for home I spent some time in Perth, where theSurveyor-General, Mr. Johnston, did all in his power to assist me in thepreparation of plans and maps. These, together with all information I hadgathered, I placed at the disposal of the Government, for which they werepleased to express many thanks. At a gathering in the Perth Town Hall, atwhich I was present on the day of my departure, Sir John Forrest, thePremier, proposed the toast of the guest and said many kind things, towhich I replied: ". . . I regret that I am only able to give such a badreport of the far interior of this Colony; but even so, and even thoughit has not been our fortune to discover any country useful either to thepastoralist or miner, yet I hope we have done good service in proving thenature of a large tract of country previously unknown. Our late journeywill, I think, give an answer to the oft-repeated question, "Does thegold-belt extend in a direct line from Coolgardie to Kimberley?" and theanswer is in the negative. At least we have demonstrated the uselessnessof any persons wasting their time and money in farther investigation ofthat desolate region. Such an expedition might be undertaken forpleasure, but this I should not recommend, for few countries present suchdifficulties of travel or such monotony of scenery or occupation. Although I am leaving this country, probably for good, I would not wishit to be thought that I have no faith in it, for the late developmentsand marvellous returns from the goldfields should convert the mostsceptical. Nor have the other sources of wealth to the Colony failed toimpress their importance on me. . . Every one is glad to return to hishome, and I am no exception; but however happy I am at the prospect ofagain seeing my native land, yet I cannot say goodbye to the numerousfriends I have been fortunate in making in this Colony without sincerefeelings of regret. Every day the Old Country, which we are all proud tocall Home, and the New are learning to understand each other better, andthe bond of friendship between them is ever strengthening. If I have beenable to promote these feelings in however small a degree, and have beenable to show that the Home-born is still able, and willing, to take hisshare in the pioneer work of this continent of Australia, as his fatherswere before him, then I have not worked in vain. "

APPENDIX

The foregoing pages would, I fear, give the reader a very bad impressionof the Colony of West Australia, until it was fully understood that myexperiences relate solely to the interior and to that part of theinterior the borders of which can only be reached by a journey of somefour hundred miles by train from the coast--that part of the Colony, infact, which lies to the East of longitude 121 degrees. 

Now West Australia is so large that, despite the desert nature of so muchof it, there still remain many thousand square miles of country suitablefor settlement and rich in mineral wealth. 

The settled portions show a picture the reverse of that I have beencompelled to exhibit in the course of my travels. 

The Colony altogether covers no less an area than 975, 920 square miles, alittle over eight times the area of Great Britain and Ireland. Itoccupies the whole of the continent West of the he 129th east meridian. In 1826 a party of soldiers and convicts formed the first settlement atKing George's Sound. Three years later a settlement was established onthe banks of the Swan River. From this modest beginning the progress ofthe settlement, which at first was slow in the extreme, came with a rushon the discovery of gold. The population of the Colony now exceeds150, 000 souls, and there can be no doubt that this population will besubstantially added to annually, when the advantages which the countrypossesses, over and beyond its auriferous districts, come to be moregenerally known and recognised. 

The progress of prosperity and civilisation undoubtedly runs parallelwith railway progress, and since the Government of the Colony becameautonomous that progress has been rapid. Seven years ago the totalmileage was 193. There is now, as I write, a total length of 1, 200 miles, 1, 000 of which have been constructed during the past six years. Of these1, 200 miles, 923 belong to the State and the balance to a privatecompany, whose line runs from Perth, along the coast northward, to theport of Geraldton. But though lines have been laid from Perth toCoolgardie, Kalgoorlie, and Cue, settlers are breaking ground fartherafield, and further extensions both in the direction of the agriculturaldistricts and of the goldfields are contemplated. The State railways, which may be looked upon as completely efficient, have paid, according toa statement in the West Australia year-book, a dividend of 11 1/2 percent. 

Although I have elsewhere described the primitive nature of the postalarrangements on the goldfields, it must be borne in mind that thisrelates to early days; now, the number of letters passing through theoffices reaches 26, 000, 000; of newspapers, 17, 000, 000; while parcels tothe extent of 5, 000, 000, and over a quarter of a million of postcards, and 1, 000, 000 telegrams were dispatched in one year, although the PostalDepartment all over the Colony is shockingly managed. There are no lessthan 5, 429 miles of telegraph line open. The rapid increase displayed inthese figures is the outcome, undoubtedly, of the gold discovery. Thefirst official record of gold production was in 1886, when the yield forthe six months ending that year was 302 oz. , valued at 1, 148 pounds. Theyield for 1897 was over 700, 000 oz. , representing rather more than 2 1/4millions sterling. 

Owing to the "sporadic and pockety" nature of the finds it was at firstsupposed that gold would only be found in superficial deposits. Thissupposition has now been completely upset by the result of sinkingoperations at Kalgoorlie and elsewhere. 

The richness of the Western Australian goldfields is established beyondthe possibility of a doubt, and though over-capitalisation and want ofproper management have had their customary ill-effects upon the industry, yet the undoubted and immense value of the auriferous yield should makethe ultimate prosperity of the Colony a matter of certainty. 

But the Colony does not rely alone upon its gold for prosperity. It hasother and substantial sources of revenue in lead, copper, tin, coal, andtimber, to say nothing of the excellence of the agricultural outlook. 

The mineral district of Northampton, connected with the port of Geraldtonby railway, is rich in lead and copper. Tin has been found in greatquantity at Greenbushes in the South-West. Thirty years ago thesedistricts were worked for their ores, but a great scarcity of labour, combined with a sudden fall in the prices of the metals, led to theabandonment of the mines. Since, however, the discovery of telluride oresat Kalgoorlie the abandoned lead and copper mines have recovered theirold value, and many mining leases have quite recently been taken outin the Northampton district for the purpose of working them, and afterthe preliminary work of emptying the old shafts of the water which hasaccumulated, has been accomplished, there is every probability thatsmelting operations will yield a handsome profit. Coal has been found onthe Collie River district and, tested by the Government, has been provedto be of good quality and to exist in seams varying from two to fourfeet in thickness. 

The Government, by way of trial, raised 1, 000 tons of coal at a cost ofabout 16 shillings per ton. The field is open to private enterprise, andas the land may be leased on the lowest possible terms there seems to bea good opening for the capitalist. 

In considering other sources of revenue in the Colony I should beinclined to put that of the timber industry at the head, and this themore so that steps have been taken by the West Australian Government forthe proper conservation, systematic working, and efficient replanting ofthe forest-lands. Hitherto in young colonies the disafforesting ofdistricts has been for agricultural and other purposes recklesslyproceeded with. Warned by example, the West Australian Government havetaken steps for the preservation and utilisation of their valuableforest-lands. In 1895 Mr. J. Ednie-Brown was engaged by the Bureau ofAgriculture to make a tour of inspection in the Colony. This gentlemanhaving had experience as Conservator of Forests both in South Australiaand New South Wales, was eminently fitted for his position as Conservatorin West Australia. Having made his tour in 1896 he issued his report. Itis to this report I am indebted for the information contained in thisbrief notice. 

The principal commercial forests lie in the South-Western districts ofthe Colony. 

Mr. Ednie-Brown gives a list of thirty-five varieties of indigenousforest-trees, but as only a certain number of them are known to be ofreal commercial value, I shall confine my remarks to the better known andmore widely used species. These are: Jarrah (EUCALYPTUS MARGINATA), Karri(EUCALYPTUS DIVERSICOLOR), Tuart (EUCALYPTUS GOMPHOCEPHALA). Sandalwood(SANTALUM CYGNORUM). 

In addition to these are many important but secondary forest-trees, asthe Wattle (ACACIA SALIGNA), Raspberry Jam (ACACIA ACUMINATA), Badjong(ACACIA MICROBOTRYA), Peppermint Tree (AGONIS FLEENOSA), Banksias of allsorts--the Sheoaks (CASUARINA FRASERIANA, GLAUCA and DECAISNEANA), theRed Gum (EUCALYPTUS CALOPHYLLA), Wandoo (EUCALYPTUS REDUNEA), Mallee(EUCALYPTUS OLEOSA). 

There are many other trees of some value, but the foregoing represent thechief. 

The total area of the principal forest regions of Western Australiacovers no less than 20, 400, 000 acres, made up of:--

 Jarrah 8, 000, 000 acres. Karri 1, 200, 000 Tuart 200, 000 Wandoo 7, 000, 000 York Gum, Yate Sandalwood, and Jam 4, 000, 000 ---------- 20, 400, 000

Jarrah is, without doubt, the principal forest-tree of Western Australia. This tree is dark grey in colour, with the bark strongly marked in deeplyindented furrows. It grows on an average to a height of 90 to 120 feet, with stems 3 feet to 5 feet in diameter, running 50 to 60 feet to thefirst branch. There are, of course, very many larger individualspecimens. The wood is red in colour, polishes well and works easily, and weighs when seasoned about 63 lbs. To the cubic foot. It isextensively used for wood-paving, piles, jetties, bridges, boat-building, furniture, and railway sleepers. It makes splendid charcoal, and when cutat the proper season exhibits remarkable durability both in the ground asfence-posts and in water. 

Karri is the giant tree of West Australia. It is extremely graceful inappearance, with a yellowish-white smooth bark, which flakes off eachyear like that of our planes. The trees grow to a height of 200 feet, with a diameter of 4 feet at a height of 3 or 4 feet from the ground, andthe first branch generally occurs at a height of 120 to 150 feet from thebase. This tree does not occur in such numbers as the Jarrah, itsfield of growth being limited. Its timber resembles that of the Jarrah, but cannot be wrought so easily, though for purposes of street-paving itis superior. It is this wood which is so extensively used in London. Itis also of value for bridge planking, shafts, spokes, felloes, waggonwork, and beams. 

Tuart is also comparatively limited in extent. It attains to a height of100 to 150 feet, having a diameter of 7 to 9 feet at the base and about40 feet to the first branch. Its timber is extraordinarily hard and toughand difficult to split. It is of great value as bridge supports, dockgates, stern posts, engine supports, &c. , and it is also extensively usedin the making of railway wagons and wheelwright's work generally. 

Sandalwood, which is more of a bush than a tree, runs small as a rule. Itis fairly distributed over the Colony. Formerly there was a greater tradein sandalwood than now; but the overstocked Chinese markets being soldout, the West Australia trade is rapidly reviving. 

Raspberry Jam is a handsomely shaped rounded acacia, and gets its namefrom the scent of its wood, which is exactly that of the raspberry. Anoil is extracted from the wood, which is highly perfumed. The wood isimpervious to the attacks of the white ant. 

In addition to these the Red Gum, the Wandoo, and York Gum are timbertrees of value. 

The total output of the saw-mills for 1895 was 130, 000 loads, representing a gross value of 400, 000 pounds. 

It will thus be seen that the forests of the Colony form noinconsiderable portion of its wealth, and afford employment to largenumbers of workers both in the forests themselves and in the saw-millsand wharves. 

The culture of the vine and various fruits is carried on in theSouth-Western districts to a great extent--the soil, the climate, and theelevation all tending to give the best results. 

The chief fruits grown are apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, cherries, apricots, quinces, oranges, and lemons. 

Viticulture forms a marked industry, though as yet largely undeveloped. There are 1, 450 acres under cultivation, and this area is rapidlyincreasing. The slopes of the coastal ranges are admirably adapted forthe culture of the vine, and the chief varieties grown are those mostsuitable for wine-making and for the table. Chasselas Doradillo, WhiteRice, Black Alicante, and Muscat of Alexandria are largely cultivated. There is, I conjecture, a good field open for the capitalist in thedirection of the wine manufacture. 

Pastoral and agricultural pursuits are carried on with success in manydistricts; agriculture is chiefly confined to the South-West corner ofthe Colony. Cattle, sheep, and horses are raised all along the coast-linefrom Albany to the De Grey, and in the far north, the Kimberley district. The Nor'-West, however, labours under the disadvantage of drought on theone hand and floods on the other. There are several regulationsgoverning land tenure, and when the emigrant has made a selection of theland suitable for his purpose (and in this he should exercise greatcare), he can get his land either as a free grant, or on lease, or byconditional purchase. On these points emigrants will be fully informed atthe office of the Agent-General (Sir Malcolm Fraser, K. C. M. G. ), 15 Victoria Street, Westminster, S. W. 

There is no doubt that the soil of the S. W. District is fertile to adegree, and capable of supporting a large pastoral and agriculturalpopulation; and, as prices rule high, doubtless an emigrant suitable foreither pursuit would find good remuneration for his capital and labour. 

In addition to the foregoing industries, there is another of almost equalimportance--that of the pearl and pearl-oyster fishery. Reports have beenissued by piscicultural experts, proving the suitability of the coastsfor the culture of the fish, and the matter has "come into officialconsideration"; and it is to be hoped that Government will take steps tofoster this lucrative pursuit, the centres of which are at Shark's Bay, about two hundred miles North of Geraldton, and at Broome, yet furtherNorth. In 1896, twenty-one tons of mother-o'-pearl were exported at a netprofit of about 40 pounds per ton. However, there is every reason tosuppose that, properly and scientifically nurtured, pearl fishing shouldprove well worthy of attention. 

Though I have come to the conclusion that, unless Spinifex and Sand canbe conjured into valuable marketable products, the far interior of theColony is worthless for any purpose, yet I have also shown that beyondthe borders of the desert Nature smiles her brightest; and, givenpopulation, West Australia may well vie in wealth and usefulness with anyof her sister colonies.