[Illustration: HURSTMONCEUX. ]

SEAWARD SUSSEX

THE SOUTH DOWNSFROM END TO END

BYEDRIC HOLMES

ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS BYMARY M. VIGERS

MAPS AND PLANS BY THE AUTHOR

LONDON: ROBERT SCOTTROXBURGHE HOUSEPATERNOSTER ROW, E. C. 

MCMXX

 "How shall I tell you of the freedom of the Downs-- You who love the dusty life and durance of great towns, And think the only flowers that please embroider ladies' gowns-- How shall I tell you ... "

 EDWARD WYNDHAM TEMPEST. 

Every writer on Sussex must be indebted more or less to the researchesand to the archaeological knowledge of the first serious historianof the county, M. A. Lower. I tender to his memory and also to hissuccessors, who have been at one time or another the good companionsof the way, my grateful thanks for what they have taught me of thingsbeautiful and precious in Seaward Sussex. 

E. H. 

CONTENTS

CHAP. 

INTRODUCTION

I LEWES

II TO EASTBOURNE AND PEVENSEY

III SHAFORD TO BRIGHTON

IV BRIGHTON

V SHOREHAM AND WORTHING

VI ARUNDEL AND THE ARUN

VII THE VALLEY OF THE ROTHER

VIII GOODWOOD AND BOGNOR

IX CHICHESTER

X SELSEY AND BOSHAM

APPENDIX-- THE SUSSEX DOWNS FROM END TO END. LONDON TO THE SOUTH DOWNS. THE WEALD. RAILWAY ROUTES. 

INDEX

The traveller through Sussex, as through every other English shire, will find many reminders of the Great War in church, churchyard orvillage green. Some are imposing or beautiful, some, alas, are neither, or are out of keeping with the quiet peace of their surroundings. Tomention any, however striking in themselves or interesting in theirconnexion, would be invidious as, at the time of writing, lack oflabour or material has prevented the completion of a great number ofthem. 

The local historian of the future will bring a woeful number of hisfamily records to a final close with the brief but glorious inscriptionon the common tablet where plough-boy and earl's son are commemoratedside by side. 

The sketch maps accompanying this book are simply for convenience inidentifying the route followed therein. Wanderers upon the Downs andin the highways and byways at their feet will find Bartholomew's"half-inch" map, sheet 32, the most useful. This scale is much to bepreferred to the "one inch" parent which lacks the contour colouring. 

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Hurstmonceux _Frontispiece_Near AlcistonMarket Cross, AlfristonA Sussex Lane, JevingtonWillingdonLamb Inn, EastbourneWannockOld House, PetworthThe Barbican, Lewes CastleSt. Anne's Church, LewesThe Priory Ruins, LewesAnne of Cleves House, SouthoverThe Grange, SouthoverCliffeFirle BeaconAlfriston ChurchAlfristonLullington ChurchLitlingtonWest DeanEast DeanBeachy HeadOld Parsonage, EastbourneJevingtonPevenseyWesthamWilmington GreenNewhaven ChurchBishopstone Church PorchSeaford ChurchSeaford HeadRottingdeanBrightonThe Pavilion, BrightonSt. Nicholas, BrightonSt. Peter's, BrightonPoyningsDannyHurstpierpointWolstonburyPortslade HarbourShoreham and the AdurNew ShorehamOld ShorehamSomptingCoombesUpper BeedingBramberSt. Mary's, BramberSteyningGrammar School, SteyningOld Houses, SteyningChanctonbury RingFindonBroadwaterSalvington MillOld Houses at TarringBeckets' Palace, TarringArundel from the RiverArundel CastleThe Keep, ArundelArundel GatewayArundel ChurchLyminsterClympingChurch Street, LittlehamptonLittlehampton HarbourAmberley CastleStopham BridgeByworthPetworth ChurchPetworth HouseSaddler's Row, PetworthCowdrayThe Granary, CowdrayMarket Square, MidhurstMidhurst ChurchEast LavantFelphamBoxgrove Priory ChurchChichester CathedralChichester Palace and CathedralBell Tower, ChichesterChichester CrossSt. Mary's Hospital, ChichesterFishbourne ManorFishbourne ChurchBoshamBosham MillBosham, The StrandHartingCowdray CottageMiddle House, MayfieldHigh Street, East GrinsteadSackville CollegeCauseway, HorshamPond Street, PetworthSteyning ChurchNorth Mill, MidhurstKnock Hundred Row, Midhurst

PLANS. 

Geology of the DownsLewesThe Eastern DownsThe Brighton DownsOld and New ShorehamThe Valley of the ArunArundelChichesterChichester CathedralThe LowlandsThe Western DownsThe Roads from London to the Downs

ARCHITECTURAL TERMS

_The following brief notes will assist the traveller who is not anexpert, in arriving at the approximate date of ecclesiasticalbuildings. _

SAXON 600-1066. Simple and heavy structure. Very small wall openings. Narrow bands of stone in exterior walls. 

NORMAN 1066-1150. Round arches. Heavy round or square pillars. Cushioncapitals. Elaborate recessed doorways. Zig-zag ornament. 

TRANSITION 1150-1200. Round arched windows combined with pointedstructural arch. Round pillars sometimes with slender columns attached. Foliage ornament on capitals. 

EARLY ENGLISH 1200-1280 (including Geometrical). Pointed arches. Pillars with detached shafts. Moulded or carved capitals. Narrow andhigh pointed windows. Later period--Geometrical trefoil and circulartracery in windows. 

DECORATED 1280-1380. High and graceful arches. Deep moulding topillars. Convex moulding to capitals with natural foliage. "Ballflower" ornament. Elaborate and flamboyant window tracery. 

PERPENDICULAR 1380-1550. Arches lower and flattened. Clustered pillars. Windows and doors square-headed with perpendicular lines. Grotesqueornament. (The last fifty years of the sixteenth century werecharacterized by a debased Gothic style with Italian details in thechurches and a beauty and magnificence in domestic architecture whichhas never since been surpassed. )

JACOBEAN and GEORGIAN 1600-1800 are adaptations of the classical style. The "Gothic Revival" dates from 1835. 

[Illustration: NEAR ALCISTON. ]

INTRODUCTION

"Then I saw in my Dream, that on the morrow he got up to go forwards, but they desired him to stay till the next day also, and then saidthey, we will (if the day be clear) show you the delectable Mountains, which they said, would yet further add to his comfort, because theywere nearer the desired Haven than the place where at present he was. So he consented and staid. When the Morning was up they had him to thetop of the House, and bid him look South, so he did; and behold at agreat distance he saw a most pleasant Mountainous Country, beautifiedwith Woods, Vineyards, Fruits of all sorts; Flowers also, with Springsand Fountains, very delectable to behold. "

Every one who has followed the fortunes of Christian in the statelydiction of the _Pilgrim's Progress_ must wish to know from whence camethose wonderful word pictures with which the dreamer of Bedford Jailgems his masterpiece. That phrase "delectable mountains" conjures up ineach individual reader's mind those particular hills wherever they maybe, which are his own peculiar delight, and for which, exiled, hisspirit so ardently longs. 

It is not presuming too much to suppose that the scene in Bunyan's mindwas that long range of undulating downs sometimes rising into bold andarresting shape, and always with their finest aspect toward the Bedfordplains and him who cast longing eyes toward them. From almost anyslight eminence on the south of Bedford town on a clear day theDunstable and Ivinghoe hills are to be seen in distant beauty, andthere is the strongest similarity between them and those glorioussummits which every man of Sussex knows and loves so well. 

The Chiltern Hills and the South Downs are built up of the samematerial, have had their peculiarities of shape and form carved by thesame artificers--rain and frost, sun and wind; their flowers are thesame, and to outward seeming their sons and daughters are the same inthe way that all hill folk are alike and yet all differ in some subtleway from the dweller in the plains. 

Be this so or not our Downs are to us delectable mountains, and let thereader who scoffs at the noun remember that size is no criterion ofeither beauty or sublimity. That Sussex lover and greatest of literarynaturalists, Gilbert White, in perhaps his most frequently quotedpassage so characterizes the "majestic chain"; to his contemporariessuch a description was not out of place; our great grandfathers wereappalled when brought from the calm tranquillity of the southern slopesto the stern dark melancholy of the mountains of Cumberland andWestmoreland. The diary descriptions of those timid travellers of thelate eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries are full of suchadjectives as "terrible, " "frightful, " "awful. " One unluckyindividual's nerves caused him to stigmatize as "ghastly anddisgusting" one of the finest scenes in the Lake District, probablyunsurpassed in Europe for its perfectly balanced beauty of form andsplendour of colouring. To the general reader of those times thedescriptive poems of Wordsworth were probably unmeaning rhapsodies. Ourancestors, however, were very fond of "prospects. " An old atlas of thecounties of England, published about 1800, came into the writer's handsrecently. The whole of the gentler hills, including every possiblevantage point in the Downs, had been most carefully and neatly markedwith the panorama visible from the summit; but even Kinder Scout andthe Malverns came in for the same fate as the Welsh and Cumberlandmountains, all of which had been left severely alone, though theintrepid traveller had braved the terrors of the Wrekin, while suchheights as Barton Hill in Leicestershire and Leith Hill in Surrey wereheavily scored with names of places seen, the latter including thatoft-told tale--a legend, so far as the present writer is aware--of St. Paul's dome and the sea being visible with a turn of the head. Thoughour idea of proportion in relation to scenery has suffered a change, Gilbert White's phrase must not be sneered at; and most comparisons arestupidly unfair. The outline of Mount Caburn is a rounded edition ofthe most perfect of all forms. The rolling undulations of the tamestportions of the range are broken by combes whose sides are steep enoughto give a spice of adventure to their descent. The "prospects, " assuch, are immeasurably superior to those obtainable from most of themountains of the north and west, where a distant view is rare by reasonof the surrounding chain of heights, and where the chance of any viewat all to reward the climber is remote unless he chooses that fortnightin early June or late September when the peaks are usually unshrouded. Really bad weather, long continued, is uncommon in the Down country. Adull or wet spell is soon over. The writer has set out from Worthing ina thin drizzle of the soaking variety, descending from a sky of leadstretching from horizon to horizon, which in the north would beaccepted as an institution of forty-eight hours at least, and onarriving at the summit of Chanctonbury has been rewarded by a gloriousgreen and gold expanse glittering under a dome of intense blue. 

[Illustration: MARKET CROSS, ALFRISTON. ]

From the wooded heights of the Hampshire border to that grand headlandwhere the hills find their march arrested by the sea, the escarpment ofthe Downs is sixty miles long and every mile is beautiful. It would bean ideal holiday, a series of holy days, to follow the edge all theway, meeting with only three valley breaks of any importance; but thecharm of the hill villages nestling in their tree embowered andsecluded combes would be too much for any ordinary human, especially ifhe were thirsty, so in this book the traveller is taken up and downwithout any regard for his consequent fatigue, when it is assured thathis rest will be sweet, even though it may be only under a hawthornbush!

[Illustration: A SUSSEX LANE, JEVINGTON. ]

"No breeze so fresh and invigorating as that of the Sussex Downs; noturf so springy to the feet as their soft greensward. A flight of larksflies past us, and a cloud of mingled rooks and starlings wheeloverhead.... The fairies still haunt this spot, and hold their midnightrevels upon it, as yon dark rings testify. The common folk hereaboutsterm the good people 'Pharisees' and style these emerald circles'Hagtracks. ' Why, we care not to enquire. Enough for us, the fairiesare not altogether gone. A smooth soft carpet is here spread out forOberon and Titania and their attendant elves, to dance upon bymoonlight.... " (Ainsworth: _Ovingdean Grange_. )

"He described the Downs fronting the paleness of the earliest dawn andthen their arch and curve and dip against the pearly grey of thehalf-glow; and then among their hollows, lo, the illumination of theeast all around, and up and away, and a gallop for miles along theturfy, thymy, rolling billows, land to left, sea to light below you.... Compare you the Alps with them? If you could jump on the back of aneagle, you might. The Alps have height. But the Downs have swiftness. Those long stretching lines of the Downs are greyhounds in full career. To look at them is to set the blood racing! Speed is on the Downs, glorious motion, odorous air of sea and herb, exquisite as the Isles ofGreece. " (Geo. Meredith: _Beauchamp's Career_. )

The most delightful close springy turf covers the Downs with a velvetmantle, forming the most exhilarating of all earthly surfaces uponwhich to walk and the most restful on which to stretch the weariedbody. Most delightful also are the miniature flowers which gem andembroider the velvet; gold of potentilla, blue of gentian, pink andwhite of milkwort, purple of the scabious and clustered bell-flower;the whole robe scented with the fragrance of sweet thyme. Severalunfamiliar species of orchis may be found and also the rare andbeautiful rampion, "The Pride of Sussex. " The hills are a paradise forbirds; the practice of snaring the wheatear for market has latelyfallen into desuetude and the "Sussex ortolan" is becoming morenumerous than it was a dozen years ago. Every epicure should beinterested in the numerous "fairy rings, " sufficient evidence of theabundance of mushrooms which will spring up in the night after a moistday. One of the most comfortable traits of our chalk hills however isthe marvellous quickness with which the turf dries after rain. Thosewho have experienced the discomfort of walking the fells of Cumberlandand Westmoreland, which at most seasons of the year resemble anenormous wet sponge, often combined with the real danger of bog andmorass, will appreciate the better conditions met with in Sussex hillrambling. Where the chalk is uncovered it becomes exceedingly slipperyafter a shower, but there is rarely a necessity to walk thereon. 

The pedestrian on the Downs should use caution after dusk; chalk pitsare not seen, under certain conditions, until the wayfarer is on theverge. Holes in the turf are of frequent occurrence and may be thecause of a twisted ankle, or worse, when far from help. 

The "dene holes" are of human origin. Once thought to be primitivedwelling places, they are now supposed to have been merely excavationsfor the sake of the chalk or the flints contained therein, and possiblyadapted for the storage of grain. Of equal interest are the so-called"dew ponds, " of which a number are scattered here and there close tothe edge of the northern escarpment. Undoubtedly of prehistoric origin, the art of making the pond has become traditional and some have beenbuilt by shepherds still living. These pools of clear cool water highup on the crest of a hill gain a mysterious air by their position, buttheir existence is capable of a scientific explanation. Built in thefirst place to be as nearly as possible non-conducting, with animpervious "puddled" bottom, the pond is renewed every night to acertain extent by the dew which trickles down each grass and reed steminto the reservoir beneath, and to a much greater extent by the mistswhich drift over the edge to descend in rain on the Weald. The poolsmight well be called "cloud ponds. "

[Illustration: WILLINGDON. ]

The most lovely scenes, the best view points, are described in theirproper place. The question as to which is the finest section of theDowns must be left to the individual explorer. To some natures the freebare wind-swept expanse at the back of Brighton will appeal the most. By others the secret woods which climb from hidden combe and dry gully, mostly terminating in a bare top, and which are all west of the Arun, will be considered incomparably the best. To every man of Lewes theisolated mass of hills which rise on the east of the town are _the_Downs. But all must be seen to be truly appreciated and loved as theywill be loved. 

Hotels will not be found in the Downs; the tourist who cannot livewithout them will find his wants supplied within but a few miles at anyof the numerous Londons by the Sea; but that will not be Sussex pureand undefiled, and if simplicity and cleanliness, enough to eat anddrink, and a genuine welcome are all that is required, he will findthese in our Downland inns. 

It is in the more remote of these hostelries that the inquisitivestranger will hear the South Saxon dialect in its purity and the slowwit of the Sussex peasant at its best. The old Downland shepherd withembroidered smock and Pyecombe crook is vanishing fast, and with himwill disappear a good deal of the character which made the Sussexnative essentially different from his cousins of Essex and Wessex. 

[Illustration: LAMB INN, EASTBOURNE. ]

One of the most delightful records of rustic life ever printed is thatstudy in the "Wealden Formation of Human Nature" by the former rectorof Burwash, John Cocker Egerton, entitled _Sussex Folk and SussexWays_. True, the book is mainly about Wealden men and we are moreconcerned with the hill tribes, but the shrewd wit and quaint conceitsof the South Saxon portrayed therein will be readily recognized by theleisurely traveller who has the gift of making himself at home withstrangers. It is to be hoped that in the great and epoch-making changesthat are upon us in this twentieth century some at least of theindividual characteristics of the English peasantry will remain. It isthe divergent and opposite traits of the tribes which make up theEnglish folk that have helped to make us great. May we long bepreserved from a Wellsian uniformity!

A brief description of the geological history of the range may not beamiss here. It will be noted by the traveller from the north that theopposing line of heights in Surrey have their steepest face (or"escarpment") on the south side, while the Sussex Downs have theirs onthe north. A further peculiarity lies in the fact that the rivervalleys which cut across each range from north to south are oppositeeach other, thus pointing to the probability that the fracture whichcaused the clefts was formerly continuous for fifty miles through thegreat dome of chalk which extended over what is now the Weald. Theelevation of this "dome, " caused by the shrinking and crumpling of theearth's crust and consequent rise of the lower strata, was never anactual smooth rise and fall from the sea to the Thames valley; throughthe ages during which this thrust from below was in progress the crownof the dome would be in a state of comparatively rapid disintegration, and it is because of this that we have no isolated masses of chalkremaining between the two lines of hills. The highlands called bygeologists the "Forest Ridge" are in the centre and are the loweststrata of the upheaval; they are the so-called Hastings sands whichenter the sea at that town half-way between Beachy Head and Dovercliffs. North and south of this ridge is the lower greensand, formingin Sussex the low hills near Heathfield, Cuckfield and Petworth, andwhich reaches the sea south and north of Hastings. It was at one timesupposed that the face of the Downs originally formed a white sea cliffand that an arm of the sea stretched across what we know as the Weald, but the simpler explanation is undoubtedly the correct one. 

[Illustration: WANNOCK. ]

The Downs themselves are composed of various qualities of chalk; someof such a hard, smooth and workable material that, as will be seenpresently, the columns in some of the Downland churches are made fromthis native "rock. " While the upper strata is soft and contains greatquantities of flints, the middle layers are brittle and yield plenty offossils, lower still is the marl, a greyish chalk of great value in thefertilization of the gault. This latter forms an enormous moist ditchor gutter at the foot of the escarpment, and from the farmer's point ofview is essentially bad land, requiring many tons of marl to be mixedwith it before this most difficult of all clays becomes fertile. Between the chalk and the gault clay is a very narrow band of uppergreensand, only occasionally noticeable in the southern range, butstrongly marked in the North Downs. 

"The chalk is our landscape and our proper habitation. The chalk gaveus our first refuge in war by permitting those vast encampments on thesummits. The chalk filtered our drink for us and built up our strongbones; it was the height from the slopes of which our villages, standing in a clear air, could watch the sea or the plain; we carvedit--when it was hard enough; it holds our first ornaments; our clearstreams run over it; the shapes and curves it takes and the kind ofclose rough grass it bears (an especial grass for sheep) are the cloakof our counties; its lonely breadths delight us when the white cloudsand the necks move over them together; where the waves break it intocliffs, they are characteristic of our shores, and through its thincoat of whitish mould go the thirsty roots of our three trees--thebeech, the holly, and the yew. For the clay and the sand might bedeserted or flooded and the South Country would still remain, but ifthe Chalk Hills were taken away we might as well be in the Midlands. "(Hilaire Belloc: _The Old Road_. )

[Illustration: GEOLOGY OF THE DOWNS. ]

A description of these hills, however short, would be incompletewithout some reference to the sheep, great companies of which roam thesunlit expanse with their attendant guardians--man and dog (who deservea chapter to themselves). Southdown mutton has a fame that isextra-territorial; it has been said that the flavour is due to thesmall land snail of which the sheep must devour millions in the courseof their short lives. But the explanation is more probably to be foundin the careful breeding of the local farmers of a century or so ago. Gilbert White refers to two distinct breeds--"To the west of the Adur... All had horns, smooth white faces and white legs, but east of thatriver all flocks were poll sheep (hornless) ... Black faces with awhite tuft of wool. " Since that day, however, east has been west andwest east and the twain have met. 

[Illustration: OLD HOUSE, PETWORTH. ]

The traveller _may_ be fortunate enough to come across a team of oxenploughing. The phenomenon is yearly becoming more rare; but withinsight and sound of the Eastbourne expresses between Plumpton andCooksbridge this archaic survival from a remote past is more likely tobe seen than elsewhere. 

The oxen are usually black and are the remnants of a particular breed, the outcome of a long and slow experiment in getting the right sort ofdraught animal. The ploughs themselves, as Jefferies says, "must havebeen put together bit by bit in the slow years--slower than the ox.... How many thousand, thousand clods must have been turned in the furrowsbefore ... The curve to be given to this or that part grew upon themind, as the branch grows upon the tree!"

But the Downs are not scarred to any great extent by cultivation. Thesheep and the birds are mostly in sole possession and are almost theonly living moving things on the hills. The fox, though at one timecommon, is now very rarely seen, for game, with the disappearance ofgorse and bramble, has almost vanished, and other beasts of prey, weasel and stoat, shun the open uplands where the only enemy of fieldmouse and vole is the eagle of the south country, the peregrine falcon. 

[Illustration: THE BARBICAN, LEWES CASTLE. ]

SEAWARD SUSSEX

CHAPTER I

LEWES

"Lewes is the most romantic situation I ever saw"; thus Defoe, and thecapital of Sussex shares with Rye and Arundel the distinction of havinga continental picturesqueness more in keeping with old France than withone of the home counties of England. This, however, is only theimpression made by the town when viewed as a whole; its individualhouses, its churches and castle, and above all, its encircling hillsare England, and England at her best and dearest to those who callSussex home. The beauty of the surroundings when viewed from almost anyof its old world streets and the charm of the streets themselves makethe old town an ever fresh and welcome resort for the tired Londonerwho appreciates a quiet holiday. As a centre for the exploration ofEast Sussex Lewes has no equal; days may be spent before the interestof the immediate neighbourhood is exhausted; for those who are vigorousenough for hill rambling the paths over the Downs are dry and passablein all weathers, and the Downs themselves, even apart from the addedinterest of ancient church or picturesque farm and manor, are amplerecompense for the small toil involved in their exploration. 

[Illustration: SKETCH PLAN OF THE BOROUGH OF LEWES. ]

The origin of Lewes goes back to unknown times, the very meaning of thename is lost, its situation in a pass and on the banks of the onlynavigable river in East Sussex inevitably made it a place of someimportance. It is known that Athelstan had two mints here and that theNorman Castle was only a rebuilding by William de Warenne on the siteof a far older stronghold. To this de Warenne, the Conqueror, with hisusual liberality, presented the town, and it is from the ruins of hiscastle that we should commence our exploration. 

Of de Warenne's building only the inner gateway remains. The outer gateand the keep date from the reign of the first Edward; the site of a_second_ keep is shown in private grounds not far off, a feature veryrare in this country if not unique. 

The summit of the tower is laid out as an old world garden; and here isalso the interesting museum of the Sussex Archaeological Society, butthe visitor will be best repaid by the magnificent view of thesurrounding country spread out before him. To the north-west risesMount Harry, and to the right of this stretches the wide expanse of theWeald bounded by the sombre ridges of Ashdown Forest, dominated byCrowborough Beacon slightly east of due north. 

The quarries and combe of Cliffe Hill stand up with fine effectimmediately east of the town, which sinks from where we stand to theOuse at the bottom of the valley. More to the south-east is MountCaburn above the bare and melancholy flats through which the Ouse findsits way to the sea; due south-west the long range of Newmarket Hillstretches away to the outskirts of Brighton, and the Race Course Hillbrings us back to our starting point. Beautiful as is the distantprospect the greatest charm of this unique view is in the huddle ofpicturesque red-tiled roofs and greenery beneath us. 

Of the history of the Castle there are but scanty records; its part inthe making of East Sussex seems to have been fairly quiescent, and inthe great struggle of May 1264 between the forces of the Barons andHenry III, for which Lewes will always be famous, the fortress took noactual part and merely surrendered at discretion. 

"The battle was fought on the hill where the races are held. Simon deMontfort, Earl of Leicester, headed the Baronial army. The Royal forceswere divided into three bodies; the right entrusted to Prince Edward;the left to Richard, Earl of Cornwall, King of the Romans; and thecentre to Henry himself. Prince Edward attacked the Londoners underNicholas Seagrave with such impetuosity that they immediately fled andwere pursued with great slaughter. Montfort taking advantage of thisseparation, vigorously charged the remaining division of the Royalists, which he put to rout. The King and the Earl of Cornwall hastened to thetown, where they took refuge in the Priory. Prince Edward, returning intriumph from the pursuit of the Londoners, learned with amazement thefate of his father and uncle. He resolved to make an effort to set themat liberty, but his followers were too timid to second his ardour, andhe was finally compelled to submit to the conditions subscribed by hisfather, who agreed that the Prince and his cousin Henry, son of theEarl of Cornwall, should remain as hostages in the hands of the Baronstill their differences were adjusted by Parliament. In this contest5, 000 men were slain. The King, who had his horse slain under him, performed prodigies of valour. Richard, Earl of Cornwall, was takenprisoner. "

By all accounts it was a good fight, and the best men won. A touch ofhumour is added to one record wherein it is related that Richard, Kingof the Romans, took refuge in a windmill, wherein he was afterwardscaptured amid shouts of "Come out, thou bad miller. " This mill stoodnear the old Black Horse Inn, but has long since been burnt down. 

Accounts vary exceedingly as to the number of the slain, someauthorities giving as many as 20, 000, others no more than 2, 700. 

 "Many faire ladie lose hir lord that day, And many gode bodie slayn at Leans lay. The nombre none wrote, for tell them might no man. But He that alle wote, and alle thing ses and can. "

 (Robert Brune. )

There are certain times, especially in the early hours of a fine autumnday, when the mass of old grey stone is seen rising above its vassaltown through golden river mists which veil the modernities of therailway and its appurtenancies, and one feels that the battle mighthave taken place yesterday. Strange that this town is an important andbusy railway junction and yet so little has the old-world appearanceof the place suffered in consequence; here are no ugly rows ofrailwaymen's cottages in stark evidence on the hillsides; in actualfact the coming of the railway has added to the antiquarian andhistorical interest of the town, as will be seen presently. 

A short distance along High Street stands St. Michael's Church, whichhas one of the three curious round towers for which the valley of theOuse is famous. The style of the tower is Norman, but the body of thechurch is of later dates. Here are some fine brasses; one is supposedto commemorate a de Warenne who died about 1380; another is to JohnBradford, rector, dated 1457. The monument to Sir Nicholas Pelham(1559) has an oft-quoted punning verse--

 "What time the French sought to have sacked Sea-Foord This Pelham did repel-em back aboord. "

St. Anne's Church is nearly a quarter of a mile farther on. The styleis Transitional. There are several interesting items, including a veryfine and ancient font of a "basket" pattern. Note the uncommonappearance of the capitals on the south side pillars, an ancient tombin the chancel wall, and, not least, the doorway with Norman moulding. There is in this church a window in memory of Lower, a fitting tributeto the historian of Sussex, but his best memorial will always be thatwork that is still the basis of most writings on the past of thecounty. 

The road continues to the Battlefield and Mount Harry, but to explorethe lower portion of the town a return must be made to High Street. Atthe corner of Bull Lane, marked by a memorial tablet and with a queercarved demon upon its front is Tom Paine's house. Note the unusualmilestone on a house front opposite Keere Street, down which turning ispresently passed (on the left) Southover House (1572), a good exampleof Elizabethan architecture. Keere Street has another remnant of thepast in its centre gutter, the usual method of draining the street inmedieval times, but now very seldom seen except in the City of London. 

At the foot of the street is the (probably dry) bed of theWinterbourne, so called because, like other streams of the chalkcountry, it flows at intermittent times. A short distance farther, tothe right, and just past St. John's Church, will be found the entranceto the space once occupied by the first Priory of the Cluniacs inEngland. 

[Illustration: ST. ANNE'S CHURCH, LEWES. ]

Founded in 1078 by William de Warenne and his wife Gundrada anddedicated to St. Pancras, the Priory was always closely allied with theparent house on the continent. At the Dissolution more than the usualvandalism seems to have been observed and Cromwell's creatures musthave vented some personal spite against the monks in their wholesaledemolition of the buildings. A mound to the north-east is supposed tobe the site of a calvary, and until quite recently a "colombarium" ordovecote was allowed to stand which contained homes for over threethousand birds. 

"The Priory building was probably irregular, varying in its form as theincrease of inmates demanded additional room. But though irregular, itwas certainly a noble edifice, faced with Caen stone, and richlyadorned by the chisel of the sculptor. Its walls embraced an area of 32acres, 2 rods, 11 perches, and it was not less remarkable for itsmagnificence than extent. The length of the church was 150 feet, havingan altitude of 60 feet. It was supported by thirty-two pillars, eightof which were very lofty, being 42 feet high, 18 feet thick, and 45feet in circumference; the remaining twenty-four were 10 feet thick, 25feet in circumference, and 18 feet in height. [1] The belfry was placedover the centre of the church, at an elevation of 105 feet, and wassupported by the eight lofty pillars above mentioned. The roof over thehigh altar was 93 feet high. Its walls were 10 feet thick. On the rightside of the high altar was a vault supported by four pillars, and fromthis recess branched out five chapels that were bounded by a wall 70yards long. A higher vault supported by four massive pillars, 14 feetin diameter, and 45 feet in circumference, was probably on the leftside of the high altar, and corresponded with the one just mentioned, from which branched out other chapels or cells of the monks. How manychapels there were cannot be ascertained; the names of only three areknown, the Virgin Mary, St. Thomas the Martyr, and St. Martin. Thechapter-house and church were by far the most splendid apartments ofthis stately pile; the latter was richly adorned by the painter and thesculptor. "

 [1] These measurements are confusing, unless the pillars were of an unusual shape. A round column 18 feet thick would be 54 feet in circumference. 

The wooden chapel of St. Pancras which existed here in Saxon timesprobably stood where later the high altar of the great Norman churchwas reared, and across this site the Eastbourne trains now run. Thestation itself is supposed to be on the site of the convent kitchensand consequently the present ruins are very scanty. Though thefoundations laid bare at the cutting of the railway in 1845 show thegreat extent of the buildings, the battered walls which now remain givebut little indication of the imposing dimensions quoted above, and thevisitor will have to depend on sentiment and the imagination ratherthan on actual sightseeing. The excavators in 1845 had a gruesomeexperience, for they discovered a charnel pit containing thirteen cartloads of bones of the fallen warriors at the battle of Lewes. Althoughnearly six centuries had elapsed the stench was dreadful. 

That the archaeological interest of Lewes owes much to the making ofthe railway will now be seen. 

[Illustration: THE PRIORY RUINS, LEWES. ]

The following account appeared in the _Gentleman's Magazine_, 1845:--

"On the morning of Tuesday, October 28, a most interesting discoverywas made by the workmen employed in forming a cutting for the Lewes andBrighton Railway, through the ground formerly occupied by the greatCluniac Priory of St. Pancras, at Lewes. It is well-known that theoriginal founders, in 1078, were William de Warenne, Earl of Surrey, ofa great Norman family, and his wife Gundred, the daughter of Williamthe Conqueror and his Queen Matilda; that they pulled down an oldwooden church to replace it by a stone one, and that after their deathsin 1085 and 1088, they were buried in the chapter-house of theirPriory. So effectual, however, was the destruction of the buildings in1537 by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners of Henry VIII that the verysite of the church has been uncertain, and there has long been nothingvisible of the ruins but a confused mass of broken walls and archeshalf buried under the soil. The bold intrusion of a railway into thesehallowed precincts has thrown light upon this obscurity, and in thecourse of their excavations the workmen have found, covered by someslabs of Caen stone, two leaden chests containing the bones of thefounders, and inscribed with their names. They are not coffins, butcists or chests, and are both of similar form and dimensions, ornamented externally by a large net-work of interlaced cords mouldedin the lead. The cist of William de Warenne measures 2 feet 11 incheslong, by 12-1/2 inches broad, and is 8 inches deep, all the anglesbeing squared, and the flat loose cover lapping an inch over. On theupper surface at one end is inscribed in very legible characters'WillelMus. ' The cist of the princess his wife is 2 inches shorter and1 inch deeper, and the word 'Gvndrada' is very distinctly inscribed onthe cover. It is worth remarking that her father, the Conqueror, in hischarter, calls for Gundfreda, and her husband, who survived her, callsher Gundreda in his charter. 

"It is obvious, from the length of these receptacles, that their boneshave been transferred to them from some previous tombs, and it is notdifficult to suppose that, the chapter-house not being built at thetime of their deaths, the founders were buried elsewhere until itscompletion, and that the bodies were then found so decayed that theirbones only remained for removal to a more distinguished situation, andwere, on that occasion, placed in these very leaden chests. Arebuilding of the Priory Church was begun on the anniversary of Williamthe founder's death in 1243, and from the antique form of the letters Gand M the inscriptions cannot be fixed at a later period. Thecharacters, indeed, more resemble the form used in the twelfth century. Of the genuine antiquity of these relics there cannot be the slightestdoubt. It is locally notorious that the black marble slab whichformerly covered the remains of Gundrada, beautifully carved andbordered with nine Latin verses in her honour cut in the rim and downthe middle, was discovered in 1775 in Isfield Church, misappropriatedas a tombstone over one of the Shirley family, and by the care of SirWilliam Burrel removed to the church of Southover, immediatelyadjoining the ruins of the Priory. It is very singular that now, afteran interval of eight years, her very bones should be brought to thesame church (under the superintendence of the Rev. Mr. Scobell) thereto undergo a third burial under Gundrada's marble slab. 

"The tombstone of Gundred Countess of Warren was discovered about theyear 1775, by Dr. Clarke, rector of Buxted, in the Shirley chancel ofIsfield Church, forming the table part of a mural monument of EdwardShirley, Esq. , by whose father probably it was preserved at thedemolition of the Priory, and conveyed to Isfield, his manorial estate. At the expense of Dr. , afterwards Sir William, Burrell, it was removedfrom its obscure station, and placed upon a suitable shrine, in thevestry-pew of Southover Church, that being the nearest convenient spotto its original station. The stone is of black marble, sculptured invery high relief. The lower end had been broken off before itsdiscovery at Isfield. Around the rim, and along the middle, is thefollowing inscription:

 Stirps Gundrada ducum, decus evi, nobile germen, Intulit ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morum, Martir (is hanc aedem struxit Pancrati in honorem) Martha fuit miseris, fuit ex pietate Maria; Pars obiit Marthe, superest pars magna Marie. O pie Pancrati, testis pietatis et equi, Te facit heredem, tu clemens suscipe matrem. Sexta kalendarum junii lux obvia carnis Fregit alabastrum (superest pars optima coelo). (_Conjectured words in parenthesis_. )

"Another leaden coffin, full of bones, but without any inscription, hasalso been found, longer than those of the founder's, having asemicircular top, and six large rings of 3-1/4 inches diameter attachedto the outsides. At a little distance from the two small chests, therewas also found the remains of an ecclesiastic, buried without anycoffin, but lying upon a bed of coarse gravel within a hollow spaceformed by large flat stones. His hands were in a position indicatingthat they had been joined together in the attitude of prayer over hisbreast, as usual. Not only his bones, but much of his thick woollengown, his under-garment of linen, and his leather shoes have beenpreserved. These, too, have been carefully transferred to SouthoverChurch. It has been conjectured with much probability that theseremains were those of Peter, the son of John, Earl de Warren, thepatron of the monastery, who was appointed prior contrary to thenomination of the Pope in favour of the suggestion that the reintermentof the remains of the founders took place about the beginning of thethirteenth century. "

[Illustration: ANNE OF CLEVE'S HOUSE, SOUTHOVER. ]

A chapel specially designed to receive the leaden caskets was erectedin excellent taste at St. John's, Southover, in 1847. The names areplainly decipherable. The tombstone on the floor is that of Gundrada, brought here from Isfield. The effigy in the wall of the chapel isconjectured to be that of John de Braose, who died in 1232. 

The picturesque old house on the north side of the street is calledAnne of Cleve's House, but this title appears to be contradicted by thedate 1599 on the front of the building; there is a possibility thatthis date was added when certain alterations took place; it is certain, however, that when Thomas Cromwell's time was past the property wasmade over to the King, of whom a very startling legend is told locallyto the effect that he murdered one of his wives on a stairway in thePriory!

The rebuilt church of St. John-sub-castre has its ugliness redeemed inthe antiquary's eye by the round Saxon arch retained in the outsidewall and by the "Magnus Memorial" as certain stones, bearing a Latininscription in Anglo-Saxon characters, are called. Here is also afourteenth century tomb and an old font. The churchyard forms the siteof a Roman camp, the vallum of which may still be seen. 

[Illustration: THE GRANGE, SOUTHOVER. ]

St. Thomas-at-Cliffe has several interesting details including anuncommon and elaborate "squint" with two pillars; a modern painting ofSt. Thomas of Canterbury, patron saint of the church, and an old Dutchrepresentation of the Ascension. 

Among the many famous men of Lewes must be mentioned Tom Paine who camehere in 1768, marrying in 1771 a daughter of the town named ElizabethOllive and in due time succeeding to her father's business oftobacconist. The house has already been noticed, it bears a memorialtablet and also a very quaint carved demon. It is just off the HighStreet and near St. Michael's Church. Lewes cannot claim the honour ofseeing the birth of _The Rights of Man_ (a rather dubious honour inthose days); the book was written while Paine stayed with hisbiographer, Thomas Rickman the bookseller, in London. 

Another famous resident of Lewes was John Evelyn, who spent a greatpart of his schooldays in the Grammer School at Southover. Here alsowas educated John Pell, the famous mathematician. 

A house at the end of the town on the Newhaven road belonged to theShelleys, and Dr. Johnson once stayed here on his way to the Thrales inBrighton. 

The old "Star" Inn has been converted into municipal offices, but thefine front still remains and most of the old work in the interior. Inthe tower close by, in the Market-place, is "Great Gabriel, " a belldating, it is said, from the time of Henry III. Lower has the followinglines on the bells of Lewes:--

 "Oh, happy Lewes, waking or asleep, With faithful _hands_ your time _archangels_ keep! St. _Michael's_ voice the fleeting hour records, And _Gabriel_ loud repeats his brother's words; While humble _Cliffites_, ruled by meaner power, By Tom the _Archbishop_ regulate their hour. "

It was hereabouts that a great burning of heretics took place in 1557. Among the honoured names recorded upon the Martyr's Memorial is that ofRichard Woodman, ironmaster, of Warbleton, whose protests against hispastor's weathercock attitude during the Marian persecutions resultedin the stake. The memorial perpetuates the names of sixteen persons whosuffered the fiery death at this time. The consequence is that the zealof the townsmen on the 5th of November is Orange in its fervour, andthe streets are given up to various "fireworks" clubs whose membershave been subscribing their spare shillings for months past. Crowdsascend Saxon Down and the surrounding hills to see the display from adistance; still greater crowds throng the streets to watch thedestruction in effigy of some unpopular local or national celebrity. Ofthe Down land walks we have mentioned the most interesting, by reasonof its fine views of the town, is to Cliffe Hill. An extension may bemade to Saxon Down, a glorious expanse of wind-swept hill; and fartheron to the conical Mount Caburn, with magnificent marine views; fromthis point a descent may be made to Glynde, which will be describedpresently. 

The long street of Cliffe leads northwards to South Malling; here is aconventicle named "Jireh" erected by J. Jenkyns, W. A. These crypticinitials mean "Welsh ambassador. " In the cemetery behind is the tomb ofWilliam Huntingdon, the evangelist, whose epitaph is as follows:--

 "Here lies the coalheaver, beloved of his God, but abhorred of men. The Omniscient Judge at the grand assize shall ratify and confirm this to the confusion of many thousands; for England and her metropolis shall know that there hath been a prophet among them. 

 "W. H. , S. S. " (Sinner Saved. )

The evangelist was wont to say "As I cannot get a D. D. For want ofcash, neither can I get a M. A. For want of learning, therefore I amcompelled to fly for refuge to S. S. "

[Illustration: CLIFFE. ]

Malling Church is of no interest except perhaps for the fact that JohnEvelyn laid the foundation stone. At Old Malling once stood a Saxoncollegiate church founded by Caedwalla in 688 and therefore one of thefirst Christian churches erected in Sussex. The Archbishops ofCanterbury had a residence near, and in the _Memorials of Canterbury_Dean Stanley tells how Becket's murderers entered the house and threwtheir arms on the dining-table, which immediately threw them off;replaced, they were again thrown farther off with a louder crash. Oneof the knights then suggested that the table refused to bear itssacrilegious burden. This is still a popular local legend. 

Ringmer, about two miles to the north-east, is closely connected withGilbert White; the oft-quoted letter in which he says "I have nowtravelled the Downs upwards of 30 years, yet I still investigate thatchain of majestic mountains with fresh admiration year by year" waswritten from here. There are several interesting monuments and brassesin the church, especially those to the Springett family. 

[Illustration: THE EASTERN DOWNS. ]

CHAPTER II

TO EASTBOURNE AND PEVENSEY

Two miles distant from Lewes on the Eastbourne road is Beddingham, whose church shows a medley of styles from Norman to Decorated. Aboutone hundred years ago a discovery was made near the village of aquantity of human remains together with weapons and accoutrements, pointing to the probability of a forgotten battle having taken place inthe pass between the hills. A religious house dedicated to St. Andrewis conjectured to have existed at one time in or near the village. Monkish records relate that a ship hailing from Dunkirk and having onboard a monk named Balger was driven into Seaford by a storm. ThisBalger was of an enterprising turn; making his way inland he helpedhimself to the relics of St. Lewinna, a British convert, which reposedin St. Andrew's Monastery. The adventures that overtook the relics andtheir illegal guardian during the journey back to Flanders make up amedieval romance of much interest and throw a curious light on themental attitude of the religious, as regards the rights of property, during the Dark Ages. 

[Illustration: FIRLE BEACON. ]

A mile farther along the high road is the turning which leads to Glyndestation and village, for which the most pleasant route is over thehills. The name is possibly a Celtic survival and describes thesituation between opposing heights. "Glyn" is common throughout thewhole of Wales. The church is in a style quite alien to itssurroundings and might well belong to Clapham or Bloomsbury. It is aGrecian temple built about 1765 by the then Bishop of Durham, Dr. Trevor, and here the Bishop was buried. There are few more charminggroups of cottages in Sussex than this beautiful village. Glynde Place, the seat of a former Speaker of the House of Commons, boasts thelargest dairy in Sussex if not in England; between 700 and 800 poundsof butter are made here daily. John Ellman, the famous breeder ofSouthdown sheep lived here for nearly fifty years (1780-1829. )

A short way farther, on the main road, is a turning to West Firle, onthe east of which is the fine Firle Park belonging to the Gage's, avery ancient local family whose tombs and brasses may be seen in thechurch. The pedestrian is advised to press on to Firle Beacon fromwhich a descent may be made to Alciston (pronounced "Aston") on thehigh road. The heap of flints on the summit of the Beacon is 718 feetabove the sea, and therefore the hill is not so high as it looks, noris it, as was formerly supposed to be the case, the second highestsummit of the Downs. The view is superb both northwards to the Wealdand southwards over the Channel. Alciston calls for little comment, thecharm of the place consists in its air of remoteness and peace. Thesmall church is partly Norman, and in the walls of Court House Farm arethe remains of a religious house. Note the ancient barn and dovecote. Amile to the north is another little hamlet called "Simson, " and speltSelmeston. The curious wooden pillars in the church were fortunatelyuntouched when the building was restored. The old altar slab has fivecrosses, and there are one or two interesting brasses. 

[Illustration: ALFRISTON CHURCH. ]

Berwick is a scattered village on the western slopes of the Cuckmerevalley; the Early English church is embowered in trees on a spur of theDowns; there is a fine canopied tomb in the chancel, an old screen andan uncommon type of font built in the wall. Note the eloquent epitaphto a former rector. 

Half a mile farther is a turning on the right that passes WintonStreet, where, a few years ago, there was a rich find of Anglo-Saxonantiquities. In two miles this byway reaches Alfriston. ("_All_-friston. ") The church has a very common legend associated withit; the foundations are said to have been again and again removed bysupernatural agency from another site to the spot where the solemn andstately old building now stands. It is a Perpendicular cruciform churchand has an Easter sepulchre and three sedilia. The register is said tobe the oldest in England, its first entry bearing the date of 1512. "Afew years since as many as seventy 'virgins' garlands' hung inAlfriston Church at once" (Hare). Close by is a delightfulpre-Reformation clergy house. Antiquaries are perhaps as concerned withthe "Star" Inn, one of the most interesting in the south of England anddating from about 1490. The front of the house is covered with quaintcarvings including St. George and the Dragon, a bear and ragged staffand what appears to be a lion. On each side of the doorway arc mitredsaints conjectured to represent St. Julian and St. Giles. The inn isreputed to have been a place of sanctuary under Battle Abbey; it standswithin the abbot's manor of Alciston and was undoubtedly the recognizedhostel for pilgrims and mendicant friars. Another old inn, once a notedhouse of call for smugglers, is Market Cross House, opposite all thatremains of the Cross, a mutilated and battered stump, and the onlyexample, except that at Chichester, in the county. 

[Illustration: ALFRISTON. ]

Alfriston once had a race week, the course being on the side of FirleBeacon; in those days the resident population was probably greater thanit is now. Not only were more souls crowded into the old houses stillstanding in the village street but tradition tells that the place waslarger and more suited to its spacious old church which is now barelyhalf filled on an ordinary Sunday. 

A footpath may be taken over the Cuckmere and up the hill beyond to thelittle dependency of Lullington. The church calls itself the smallestin Sussex but this depends upon what constitutes a church. The existingbuilding is actually the chancel of a former church, perhaps anotherproof of a dwindling population. 

[Illustration: LULLINGTON CHURCH. ]

The winding lane on the eastern bank of the Cuckmere is thick with aglaring white dust on the dry days of summer, but there is no otherpracticable route to Litlington; where is a quaint and interesting oldchurch with arches formed of the native chalk. This village is growingrather than decaying, and appears to be, in a small way, an asylum forthose who have grown weary of the broader highways. It is in a mostdelightful situation and is even within reach of a morning dip in thesea for those vigorous enough to undertake a three mile walk each way. "Tea" placards nestling among the roses and ivy on the cottage wallsalso testify its attractions to holiday wayfarers, though the way toLitlington, even for the motor-cyclist, is too strenuous for thevillage to become overcrowded or vulgar. 

[Illustration: LITLINGTON. ]

The Cuckmere now begins to widen its banks and the theory that thewaters once extended from side to side of the valley seems tenable aswe view the wide expanse of sedgy swamp through which the presentchannel has been artificially cut. Cuckmere Haven is the name given tothe bay between the last of the "Seven Sisters" and the eastern slopesof Seaford Head which should be ascended for the sake of the lovelyview up the valley, seen at its best from this end. 

"The only light that suits the tranquillity and tender pathos of theregion is that which fills the dimples of the Downs with inexpressiblysoft and dreamy expressions, and quickens the plain by revealing theindividuality of every blade of grass and plough-turned clod by its ownshadow. "

(Coventry Patmore. )

Nearly all the villages of the Cuckmere are in sight and make togetherperhaps the most likely to be remembered of Sussex pictures. It issurprising how little this tranquil vale is known except to the chancevisitor from Seaford. When one remembers the much exploited and spoiltbeauty spots of Dorset and Devon one feels nervous for the future ofthese lesser known but equally charming sea-combes of Sussex. 

A short distance from the haven a steep gulley leads to the beach witha convenient chain and rope to prevent too sudden a descent. It hasbeen suggested that through this gap the Romans passed from theirmoored fleets to the fortified settlements above. It was at one timepossible to descend by another opening higher up the cliff to a ledgecalled "Puck Church Parlour. " This is now inaccessible except toseabirds. The well-known view of the "Seven Sisters" is takenhereabouts and the disused "Belle Tout" lighthouse stands up well onthe western slopes of Beachy Head, looking no distance across theCuckmere bay. 

On the way from Litlington a slight divergence of half a mile or somight have been made to West Dean; this is a most sequestered littlehamlet, famous only as the meeting place between the great Alfred andAsser, though some authorities claim the West Dean between Midhurst andChichester as the authentic spot. There is a Norman arch in thetower of the church and also several canopied tombs and some goodstained glass. Here is another priest's house even older than the onewe have seen at Alfriston. George Gissing well describes the villageand the surrounding country in his novel _Thyrza_. 

[Illustration: WEST DEAN. ]

A Downland road can be taken from here to Friston, Eastdean andEastbourne, saving some miles of up and down walking, but the mostenjoyable though more strenuous route is by the cliff path fromCuckmere Haven over the "Seven Sisters" cliffs to Beachy Head; aglorious six miles with the sea on one side and the Downs on the other, culminating in the finest headland on the south coast, 575 feet high, the magnificent end of the Downs in the sea. All these cliffs providenesting-places for wild birds. 

"I was much struck by the watchful jealousy with which the peregrinesseemed to guard the particular cliff--more than 500 feet from thesea--on a lofty ledge of which their nest was situated, and which, indeed, they evidently considered their especial property; with theexception of a few jackdaws who bustled out of the crevices below, allthe other birds which had now assembled on this part of the coast forthe breeding season--it being about the middle of May--seemed torespect the territory of their warlike neighbours. The adjoiningprecipice, farther westward, was occupied by guillemots and razorbills, who had deposited their eggs, the former on the naked ledge, the latterin the crevices in the face of the cliff Here the jackdaws appearedquite at their ease, their loud, merry note being heard above everyother sound, as they flew in and out of the fissures in the white rockor sate perched on a pinnacle near the summit, and leisurely surveyedthe busy crowd below. "

(A. E. Knox. )

At Birling Gap, just short of the Head, is a coast-guard station andthe point of departure for the cable to France where we may descend tothe coast by an opening which was once fortified. In history BeachyHead (possibly "Beau Chef") is chiefly remembered for the battlebetween the combined English and Dutch fleets and the French, in whichthe English admiral did not show to the best advantage. 

[Illustration: EAST DEAN. ]

Before the erection of the Belle Tout Light wrecks off the Head were offrequent occurrence and many are the tales of gallant fight andhopeless loss told by the coast dwellers here. "Parson Darby's Hole"under the Belle Tout is said to have been made by the vicar of EastDean (1680) as a refuge for castaways. We can but hope that hisparishioners were as humane, but the probability is that the parson'sefforts were looked on askance by his flock, who gained a prosperouslivelihood by the spoils of the shore; and perhaps this feeling gaverise to the unkind fable that the cave was made as a refuge from Mrs. Darby's tongue. 

 "Sussex men that dwell upon the shore Look out when storms arise and billows roar; Devoutly praying with uplifted hands That some well-laden ship may strike the sands. To whose rich cargo they may make pretence. "

 (Congreve. )

The fine carriage-road which leaves Beachy Head leads directly intoEastbourne and is called the Duke's Drive. It was owing to theinitiative of the grandfather of the present Duke of Devonshire, whoselocal seat is at Compton Place on the west of the town that the littlehamlet of Sea Houses became the present beautiful and fashionableresort, with a sea-front of nearly three miles of gardens backed byhotels, boarding-houses and schools. As at Folkestone, education ishere a strong feature, and a few years ago demure files of young ladieswith attendant dragon taking the air between breakfast and study mighthave been seen. The epoch-ending events of the last few years, however, appear to have killed the "caterpillar. "

Eastbourne seems to have carefully pushed its workers, together withthe gasworks, market gardens, and other utilitarian features round thescreen of Splash Point. The boulevards going west and north are full offine houses and brilliant shops and are lined with well grown trees. The continuation of Terminus Road will take us in a little over a mileto the old town; here is the parish church, mostly Transitional, andwith many interesting features which should on no account be missed. Note the oak screen in the chancel; sedilia and piscina; also an Eastersepulchre. There is some old Flemish glass in the east window of thenave aisle; that of the chancel is modern but good. Near the church isa farmhouse, once a priory of Black Friars. The ancient "Lamb Inn" hasan Early English crypt which may be seen on application. 

[Illustration: BEACHY HEAD. ]

The most popular excursion from Eastbourne after "The Head" is toWillingdon, near which is Hampden Park and Wannock Glen, and, fartherafield, Jevington. Willingdon has an interesting old church and ispleasantly situated, but the village is too obviously the "place tospend a happy day" to call for further comment. On the other hand, Jevington with its ancient but over-restored church, is quite unspoiltand, lying in one of the most beautiful of the Down combes, shouldcertainly be visited. 

We are now at the end of the Downs and the scenery eastwards takes onan entirely different character:--

"The great and fertile plain stretching along the Sussex coast from theeastward of Beachy Head in the direction of Hastings, and inlandtowards Wartling, Hurstmonceux and Hailsham, now studded with fatbeeves, was at some remote era, covered by the sea, and what are knownas 'eyes, ' or elevations above the surrounding level--such as Chilleye, Northeye, Horseye, Richeye, &c. --must have been islands, forming aminiature archipelago. As all these are of Saxon meaning, it may bepresumed that, at the time of the Saxon colonization, they werefrequently or constantly insulated. "

[Illustration: OLD PARSONAGE, EASTBOURNE. ]

(Lower. )

Five miles from Eastbourne across the dreary flats of Pevensey Levellies all that remains of the city of Anderida, the headquarters of theRoman "Count of the Saxon Shore" and one of the last strongholds ofRome in Britain. The melancholy tale of the overthrow of ancientcivilization in this corner of England by the barbarous Saxon invadersis summed up in the terse words of their own chronicle--"They slew allthat dwelt therein, nor was there henceforth one Briton left. " The name"Andredes Weald" is derived from the British--An tred--"No houses, " andit correctly described the surrounding country at the time of the Romanoccupation. The great Weald or forest actually extended from the coastto the Thames valley, broken only by the "Old Road" along the side ofthe North Downs, traversed by far-off ancestors of ours whose feelingsas they gazed fearfully down into the depths of the primeval wood musthave been on a plane with those of the earliest African explorers inthe land of Pygmies. Here were the very real beginnings of thosecountless tales of Gnome and Fairy--ferocious tribe and gentletribe--with which our folk-lore abounds. 

[Illustration: JEVINGTON. ]

As to the existence of a British town here before the coming of theRomans nothing is known, but that Pevensey Bay witnessed the landing ofJulius Caesar is tolerably certain, and here the custodians of Britainerected a great stronghold of whose walls we shall see the remnants aswe first enter the castle. In 490 Ella besieged the city and, as quotedabove, put it to fire and sword in effectual fashion; from this periodtherefore must be dated the foundations of the South Saxon kingdom. After upwards of five hundred years another conqueror appeared on theold Roman wall. On the twenty-eighth September 1066 William I landed, stumbled and fell, and "clutched England with both hands. " Pevensey(Peofn's Island) was given to Robert of Mortain, and he it was whobuilt the massive castle of the "Eagle" which we see rising inside theRoman wall. This name arose from the title "Honour of the Eagle" whichwas given to de Aquila, holder of the fortress under Henry I. Aftermany changes of owners who included Edward I, Edward III and John ofGaunt, and after being besieged by Stephen against Matilda, by theBarons against Henry III, and by Richard II against Bolingbroke it fellon evil times and was actually sold for forty pounds by theParliamentary commissioners as building material. The keep is in ruinsand the chapel can only be traced in the grassy floor; here may stillbe seen the old font covered by an iron frame, and the opening of thecastle well, in which, as related by Hare, skulls of the wolves whichonce roamed the great forest have been found. 

In connexion with the Norman occupation of Sussex the curious andarbitrary system of "Rapes" by which the county is divided should benoticed. These six blocks of land have no apparent relation to thenatural features of the country; each contains a powerful castle tooverawe the division to which it belongs. The whole plan is eloquent ofthe method by which the Norman ruled the conquered race and kept themin subjection. 

[Illustration: PEVENSEY. ]

Pevensey shore is very trying for the pedestrian. The great expanse ofshingle is of that drifting variety which makes walking almost animpossibility. 

Pevensey church is to the east of the castle; the interior is gracefuland it has some interesting details. Note the case of localcuriosities, title deeds, etc. Westham, that part of the villagenearest the station, was the overflow settlement from the walled town;this has a much finer church with Norman remains dating from theConqueror's time, and the tower is noble in its massive proportions. Visitors should purchase the interesting little booklet shown on thetable within the porch. The church has a fine oak screen in the southchancel and a stone altar with five crosses in the north aisle. Not faraway is a large farmhouse known as "Priest-house"; this was once amonastic establishment. 

[Illustration: WESTHAM. ]

Close to Westham is Pevensey Station, from which the traveller canproceed to Hastings, Rye and Winchelsea; this beautiful and interestingdistrict of Sussex is dealt with in Mr. Bradley's _An Old Gate ofEngland_, and we must regretfully turn westwards. The return journey toLewes may be made by the railway, though the Downs, for the unfatiguedtraveller, should prove the most alluring route. After passing Polegatea good view may be had on the left of the "Long Man of Wilmington" afigure 230 feet in length with a staff in each hand cut in theescarpment of Windover Hill; this is the only prehistoric figure on theSussex Downs. Its origin has never been satisfactorily explained. Lowerhas suggested that it was the work of an idle monk of Wilmington. Thisis most unlikely. The theory has lately been put forward that the"staff" which the figure appears to be holding in each hand is reallythe outline of a door and that the effigy is that of Balder pushingback the gates of night. Wilmington village has an interesting NormanChurch with a very fine yew in the churchyard. Built into the walls ofa farmhouse close by are some remains of a Benedictine priory. Beautiful walks into the nearer woodlands of the Weald are easily takenfrom this pleasant village and the hill rambles toward Jevington aredelightful. 

Before leaving this district mention must be made of Hurstmonceux. Thenearest station is Pevensey, from which there is a rather dull walk offour miles across the Pevensey Levels. The more picturesque route isfrom Hailsham, though this is longer and belongs more to a tour of theWeald. The only village passed on the way from Pevensey is Wartling, beyond which a footpath can be taken across the meadows with a fineview of the ruins ahead. The present castle was built by Sir Roger deFiennes in the reign of Henry VI. The name is taken from the first Lordof the Manor, Waleran de Monceux. 

[Illustration: WILMINGTON GREEN. ]

The outer shell is all that remains of what was once one of thegrandest fortified mansions in England; it is now but a subject forartists and photographers, though at one time, since its dismantling, it made a good secret wine and spirit vaults. The colour of the wallsis a surprise until it is realized that the building is of brick. Thesouthern entrance, by which we approach, is the most imposing part ofthe ruin. We enter by a wooden bridge across the moat; this replacesthe drawbridge. In the recessed chamber behind the central arch aghostly drum was sometimes heard, and the supernatural drummer wassupposed to guard hidden treasure. This legend was made good use of bythe smuggling fraternity, the thumping of an empty keg being sufficientto scare away inconvenient visitors. Within the walls we are in awilderness of broken brickwork covered with an enormous growth of ivy. Notice the great oven, and the ruins of the private chapel on the northside. The circuit of the walls should be made as far as is practicable;the magnificent row of Spanish chestnuts is much admired. 

The story of the demolition of Hurstmonceux is unhappy reading; the actof vandalism for which the architect Wyatt was officially responsibleseems to have been prompted by family spite. 

The church is of great interest. The Dacre chantry and the splendidtomb of Thomas Fiennes, Lord Dacre, must be noticed; also a brass ofSir William Fiennes, 1405. The association of the place with the Hares, who are buried under the yew in the churchyard, although of recent dateis nevertheless of much interest. The property and the living, whichpassed in 1855, came to the family through George Naylor of Lincoln'sInn, who bought them in 1708. 

Near the church stands a fine fourteenth-century barn. The village isremarkable for a local industry--the making of "trug" baskets for thecarriage of fruit. 

CHAPTER III

SEAFORD TO BRIGHTON

The direct route to Brighton for pedestrians is by a footpath whichleaves Lewes at the west end of Southover Street; this leads to thesummit of Newmarket Hill and thence to the Racecourse and Kemp Town. Novillages are passed and but few houses, and the six miles of Down, although so near a great town, are as lonely as any other six inSussex. The high road leaves the town by the Battlefield road past St. Anne's church and follows the railway closely until the tram lines onthe outskirts of Brighton are reached; this route passes Falmer, north-west of which lies the beautiful Stanmer Park, seat of the Earlof Chichester. 

[Illustration: THE BRIGHTON DOWNS. ]

It will be best, however, to take the Newhaven road from Southoverwhich hugs the foot of the Downs and in a short two miles reachesIford. About half-way a turning to the right leads to the snug littlevillage of Kingston with the hills rising closely all round. This placewas once the property of Sir Philip Sidney. The remains of an ancienthouse belonging to the Priory at Lewes are to be seen in the oldfarmhouse named Swanborough which lies between Kingston and Iford. Thearchitecture is Perpendicular, and Early English; permission should beobtained to examine the interesting details which, include a venerableoak table in the kitchen. Iford Church is a Norman building with acentral tower and an Early English font. 

A little over a mile farther is Rodmell with very fine Norman detailsin the church, which has the rare feature of a baptistery. The earlyDecorated screen is good; note also the squint with a shaft in thecentre. Here is a brass dated 1433 in memory of Agatha Broke, on theback of which is another inscription to some one else of theseventeenth century. The church is surrounded by magnificent trees, and of especial note is the huge holm oak which overshadows the rest. The village inn has on its walls a quaint and amusing collection ofprecepts for its habitués which might well be duplicated elsewhere. Southease, the next village, has another of the three round towers ofSussex, and Piddinghoe, two miles farther, the third. These towers area matter of puzzled conjecture to archaeologists; all three, Lewes, Southease and Piddinghoe are on the western bank of the Ouse. Thesuggestion that they were originally beacon towers is not veryconvincing, though the Ouse at the time they were built was a wider anddeeper stream, forming in fact an estuary haven. The more prosaicexplanation is that lack of stone for the quoins, which every squareflint tower must have, led the builders to adopt this form. In anycase, a beacon fire from a square tower is as effectual as from a roundone. Piddinghoe has many associations with the smuggling days whichhave given birth to some quaint sayings, as "Pidd'nhoo they dig formoonshine, "--"At Pidd'nhoo they dig for smoke, " etc. , but we fail tosee the point in "Magpies are shod at Pidd'nhoo. "

[Illustration: NEWHAVEN CHURCH. ]

Seven miles from Lewes stands the rather mean port of Newhaven. Aftermany years of neglect and decay this Elizabethan sea-gate is once moreof great importance in continental traffic. Much money and skill wereexpended during the latter half of the nineteenth century in improvingthe harbour and building a breakwater and new quays. Louis Philippelanded here in 1848, having left Havre in his flight from France in thesteamer "Express"; he was received by William Catt, who at one timeowned the tide mills at Bishopstone; this worthy was a well knownSussex character and is immortalized by Lower. Newhaven has little toshow the visitor beyond the small Norman church which has a chancelapse at the east of the tower. This portion is interesting but the navehas suffered from ignorant tinkering under the alias of "restoration. "In the churchyard is a monument to those who perished in the wreck ofthe "Brazen" sloop of war in 1800 off the harbour, and another to alocal brewer of the one-time famous "Tipper" ale, made from brackishwater. The town was once called Meeching; this name is perpetuated in"Meeching Place" where a descendant of William Catt still lives. 

[Illustration: BISHOPSTONE CHURCH PORCH. ]

On the east of the Ouse is a much more interesting halt for thetourist in the small village of Bishopstone. The small remains of thetide mills just referred to are near the station. The very fine Normanchurch is about a mile away on the road to the Downs. The four storiedtower is almost unique. Each stage diminishes in size, thus dispensingwith buttresses; in this respect it is similar to Newhaven. Noticeunder the short spire a quaint corbel table. The south porch isextremely interesting as Saxon work though the mouldings are probablylater enrichments by Norman workmen. Over the door is a stone dial witha cross and the name EADRIC. The interior is a good example of thechange from round to pointed, the pure Norman of the east end graduallychanging to Early English at the west. The combination of Normanornament with the later style is almost unique in Sussex. In the vestryan interesting stone slab is shown; this was discovered during therestoration. It bears the carved presentment of a lamb, a cross, andtwo doves drinking. At this time a stone coffin lid, and a hiddenfourteenth-century niche in the porch were also discovered. In thechancel is a memorial to James Hurdis, formerly Vicar of the parish, the author of _The Village Curate_, which has been likened to Cowper's_Task_; the verses are full of shrewd wit and local colour. 

One mile south-east is the village of East Blatchington, now a suburbof Seaford; the restored church is Norman and Early English. In thesouth wall is a curious recess in Decorated style, the real use ofwhich has not yet been discovered. Notice the sedilia and projectingpiscina, and the tablet to the memory of the famous aeronaut, Coxwell, who died here in 1900. 

Seaford was once an ancient port at the mouth of the Ouse before thatriver forsook its old channel for the outlet where is now the "NewHaven. " An important satellite of Hastings and ranking as one of thelesser Cinque ports, the old town saw much history-making during theFrench wars and suffered accordingly. Its actual foundation dates atleast from Roman times as is proved by the fragments of sculpture, coins, etc. , dug up at different times during the last two hundredyears. At the rear of the East Cliff, near a footpath leading toChyngton, are traces of a Roman cemetery with possible evidence ofearlier British burials. 

In the town itself are some interesting though scanty remains ofmediaeval times. In the garden of a house named "The Folly" is avaulted room the origin of which has never been satisfactorilyexplained. It is possibly part of the Ancient Hospital of St. Leonard. The open space at the higher end of the town is called "The Crouch" aname that is a corruption of "The Crux. " The fine old Hardwicke Housein Broad Street is dated 1603. At one time it was a lodging-house, butits fortunes have lately risen. Seaford House was once the temporaryresidence of Tennyson. 

Seaford church is dedicated to St. Leonard and is Norman as far as thetower is concerned, of which the embattlement is modern; note thecrosses in black flints on three of the sides. The base of the walls ofthe church date from this period, rising through Transitional toPerpendicular. The detail has been largely spoilt through restoration. Note the capitals of the pillars which are most elaborately worked, that near the south door having a representation of the Crucifixioncarved upon it. 

[Illustration: SEAFORD CHURCH. ]

Millburgh House was once the property of a noted smuggler namedWhitfield, whose immunity from punishment was obtained by judiciouspresents of choice wines in high quarters. Tales of the old smugglingdays would fill many pages, and undoubtedly the profession formed themajor commercial asset not only of Seaford but of more important Sussextowns both on the coast and on the roads leading to the capital. 

Lower has recorded many interesting facts about the long war betweenthe revenue officers and the natives, relieved at all times by theunfailing humour of the law-breakers, who took a keen delight infooling the exciseman. It was but infrequently that real tragedy tookplace; considering the times, and the manner of those times, therecords of Sussex are fairly clean. Such brutal murders as that ofChater in 1748, which crime was expiated at Chichester, were rare. Theprofessionals were nearly all men of substance and standing in theland. The marine smuggler was of course a separate breed whoseadventures and danger were of a different sort and, despite the glamourof the sea, of much less interest and excitement; on the other handmost of the inhabitants of such places as Alfriston had one or more ofthe male members of the family engaged in the trade, and many are thehouses which still have secret vaults and chambers for the reception ofthe goods, chiefly wine, brandy, silk and tea. Most of the churchesbetween Seaford and Lewes have at one time or another proved convenienttemporary storage places, and on more than one occasion Sunday servicehas had to be suspended, on one excuse or another, until the buildingcould be cleared of its congregation of tubs. Lower records that atSelmeston the smugglers actually used an altar tomb as a store forspirits, always leaving a tub for the parson. 

Seaford in its new rôle as a holiday resort has a serious obstacle tosurmount; the only sea "front" possible is a wide shingle beachseparated from the old town by a nondescript stretch of sandy desert;when and if this is filled in or converted into a garden the townshould prosper exceedingly, for it has great natural attractions inSeaford Head which rises to the east and in the glorious Down walkswithin easy distance. In actual distance by rail it is, next toBrighton, the nearest South Coast resort to London and without doubthas a successful future before it. It is but little over two miles tothe Cuckmere valley past the Roman camp and over the Head. The views ofthe "Seven Sisters" and on to Beachy Head from this point are veryfine, and the great cliff itself, though much lower, is almost asinteresting as the Eastbourne height. For one thing the wild life ofthe precipice is more easily studied, the crowds which on most summerdays throng the more popular Head are not met with here. The writer hasspent a June morning quite alone but for the myriad birds wheelingaround and scolding at his presumption in being there at all. 

[Illustration: SEAFORD HEAD. ]

The route now follows the coast road from Newhaven westwards. From thePortobello coastguard station, four miles from Newhaven Bridge, a roadruns across the downs to the beautiful little village of Telscombe, nestling in a secluded combe in the heart of the hills; by-roads andfootpaths also lead here by delightful ways from Southease andPiddinghoe. The church is old and interesting, quite unspoilt by anyattempt at restoration; note the beautiful font on a marble platform. 

Both here and at Rottingdean the artificial height of the churchyardabove the surrounding land will be noticed. Cobbett's explanation forthis is the obvious but rather gruesome one that dust added to dust hasmore than doubled the contents of the consecrated ground. From thecomparative heights of the enclosure the author of _Rural Rides_reckoned the age of the building, a method which made a greater appealto him than the rule of Norman round or English point. 

Rottingdean has lately made a name for itself by reason of its modernliterary associations. Its connexion with William Black and RudyardKipling is well known. Cardinal Manning and Bulwer Lytton both attendeda once celebrated school kept here by Dr. Hooker. Edward Burne-Joneshas left a lasting memorial of his association with the place in thebeautiful east window of the church which was designed and presented bythe artist. Certain columns in the walls point to the existence of aSaxon building of which these are the remains. Notice the effect of thetower in its unusual position between chancel and nave. 

The village has a deserved place in the national history, as thefollowing account will show:--

"In 1377 Hastings was burnt by the French, who also attempted to burnWinchelsea, but were foiled. They also attacked Rye, where they landedfrom five vessels. After plundering and setting it on fire they wentaway, leaving the town desolate. They landed at Rottingdean, advancedover the Downs with the design of laying waste Lewes, but in this weredisappointed by the valour of John de Cariloce, Prior of Lewes, SirThomas Cheney, Constable of Dover Castle, Sir John Falsley, and others, who upon apprisal of it, hastened their vassals, and were joined by anumber of peasantry, who boldly ascended the Downs, resolved to repelthe invaders. They were insufficient both in number and skill to copewith the well-trained troops of France. The brave peasantry weretotally routed, but not till one hundred of their party had sacrificedtheir lives, and the Prior and the two knights had been made prisoners. The loss which the French had sustained prevented furtherencroachments, and they returned to their ships with their prisoners, who were conducted to France. "

That Rottingdean was known and appreciated over one hundred years agowill come as a surprise to many. The following account appeared in the_Gentleman's Magazine_, 1801:--

"The pleasant and delightful village of Rottingdean is situated on theNewhaven Road, at the distance of nearly four miles fromBrighthelmstone, a popular watering place. This place is no otherwiseremarkable than for its wells, which are nearly empty at high water, but which rise as the tide declines. This little village has of latebeen the resort of a considerable number of genteel company, for whichbathing-machines and every accommodation have been provided. Here are avariety of lodging houses, a good inn, with convenient stables, coach-houses, etc. It is most frequented by such families as prefer alittle retirement to the bustle and gaiety of Brighthelmstone, and whooccasionally may wish to mix with the company there, for which itssituation renders it at any time perfectly convenient. The road fromRottingdean to Brighthelmstone is delightfully pleasant in the summerseason. On one side you have an extensive view of the sea, and on theother the Downs, covered with innumerable flocks of sheep, so justlyheld in estimation for their delicious flavour. "

[Illustration: ROTTINGDEAN. ]

About two and a half miles from Rottingdean in a lonely dene surroundedby the Downs is the little hamlet of Balsdean; there is nothing to seehere but a building locally called "The Chapel" (the architecture isDecorated, with an ancient thatched roof) but the walk will give thestranger to the district a good idea of the solitude and uniquecharacteristics of the chalk hills. The curious T-shaped cuttings stillto be seen in the sides of the Downs may be remarked; these are wherethe traps set to catch wheatears were set. A great trade was once doneby the Downland peasantry in these "Sussex Ortolans, " as they werecalled, but of late years the demand has dwindled to vanishing point. 

The lover of the picturesque will feel grateful to the powers whorefuse to destroy the deserted windmills which stud the Downs and ofwhich there is one good example near here. One cannot suppose howeverthat the object of letting them stand is other than utilitarian; aftera long life of service in their original capacity these daylightbeacons perform the duty of landmarks for seamen in the Channel. 

A footpath from Rottingdean just a mile long crosses the Downs toOvingdean, another lonely hamlet without inn or shop. An ancientchurch, possibly Saxon in part, and a few houses hidden by trees make agoal of a favourite walk from Brighton. Harrison Ainsworth has made thelittle place famous in "Ovingdean Grange, " in which romance thenovelist makes it one of the scenes in the flight of Charles II; thishowever is incorrect, as it is certain that Brighton was the limit ofthe royal fugitive's journey eastwards. The large building on the hillabove Ovingdean is Roedean College for girls; its fine situation andimposing size make it a landmark, and the seascape from its windowsmust be unrivalled. 

[Illustration: BRIGHTON. ]

CHAPTER IV

BRIGHTON

"Kind, cheerful, merry Dr. Brighton. " Thackeray's testimonial is as aptto-day as when it was written, but the doctor is not one of thetraditional type. Here is no bedside manner and no misplaced sympathy, in fact he is rather a hardhearted old gentleman to those patients whoare really ill in mind or body and his remedies are of the "hair of thedog that bit you" type. 

Londoners take Brighton as a matter of course and--as Londoners--arerarely enthusiastic. It takes a Frenchman to give the splendid line ofbuildings which forms the finest front in the world the admiration thatis certainly its due. When one has had time to dissect the great town, appreciation is keener; there are several Brightons; there is a townbuilt on a cliff, another with spacious lawns on the sea level, and athird, the old Brighton, bounded by the limits of the original fishingvillage, and, with all its brilliance, having a distinctly briny smellas of fish markets and tarred rope and sun-baked seaweed when you arenear the shingle. This last is nearly an ever-present scent, for thesun is seldom absent summer or winter; in fact it is when the days areshortest that Brighton is at its best; The clear brilliance of the airwhen the Capital is full of fog and even the Weald between is coveredwith a cold pall of mist, makes the south side of the Downs anotherclimate. Richard Jeffries, almost as great a town hater as Cobbet, hasa good word for Brighton. "Let nothing cloud the descent of thoseglorious beams of sunlight which fall at Brighton" (referring to itstreelessness). "Watch the pebbles on the beach; the foam runs up andwets them, almost before it can slip back the sunshine has dried themagain. So they are alternately wetted and dried. Bitter sea and glowinglight, dry as dry--that describes the place. Spain is the country ofsunlight, burning sunlight, Brighton is a Spanish town in England, aSeville. "

The history of Brighton is the history of Piccadilly, but although thePrince Regent is usually credited with the discovery of the town, thistitle to fame must be given to a doctor of Lewes named Russel, whowrote a book on the virtues of sea water as applied to the person. Thiswas published in 1750, and from that time must be dated the rise ofEngland's first sea resort, for almost immediately patients eager forthe new cure came thronging from London by post-chaise and familycoach, and the doctor soon removed from his native town to attend them. The "cure" became the mode, and in 1783, when the Prince made his firstvisit, the fortune of the town was assured. 

After a hundred years that ended with the Mid-Victorians theexclusiveness of Brighton gave way to the excursion train, and thoughstill a fashionable place, it is now more than ever London-by-the-seaand caters with true courtliness for coster and duke. 

Brighton was never a "steps to the sea" for anywhere but London, andits beginnings as a small but independent fishing settlement are veryremote; according to some seventeenth century writers it once boastedwalls and upwards of two thousand inhabitants, but through thedepredations of the sea, it had dwindled to a mere hamlet, and cut offby the Downs and away from all the usual channels of communication, theself-sufficiency of the place must have received a rude shock when thefirst visitors arrived, but natives of the coast are notoriouslyadaptable and know a "sure thing. " The following account written in1766 shows how quickly the town was preparing for its great future. 

"Brighthelmstone, in the County of Sussex, is distant from London 57miles, is a small, ill-built town, situate on the sea coast, at presentgreatly resorted to in the summer time by persons labouring undervarious disorders for the benefit of bathing and drinking sea water, and by the gay and polite on account of the company which frequent itat that season. Until within a few years it was no better than a merefishing town, inhabited by fishermen and sailors, but through therecommendation of Dr. Russel, and by the means of his writing in favourof sea water, it is become one of the principal places in the kingdomfor the resort of the idle and dissipated, as well as the diseased andinfirm. "

"It contains six principal streets, five (East Street, Black LionStreet, Ship Street, Middle Street, West Street) lie parallel with eachother, and are terminated by the sea. The sixth, North Street, runningalong the ends of the other five, from the assembly house almost to thechurch. The church, which is a very ancient structure, is situate at asmall distance from the town, upon an eminence, from which there is anexceedingly fine view of the sea, and in the churchyard is a monumenterected to the memory of Captain Nicholas Tattersell, who assisted KingCharles II in his escape after the Battle of Worcester. 

"The house in which the King was concealed is kept by a publican whohas hung the King's head for his sign. The church is a rectory, and theRev. Mr. Mitchell is the present incumbent; besides the church thereare three other places of worship, one for Presbyterians, another forQuakers, and a third for Methodists, which last is lately erected atthe expense of the Countess of Huntingdon adjoining her house, throughwhich there is a communication. There are two assembly rooms, which areopened on different nights, one kept by Mr. Shergold, and the other byMr. Hicks, who also keeps the coffee-house. The place on which thecompany usually walk in the evening is a large field near the sea, called the Stean, which is kept in proper order for that purpose, andwhereon several shops with piazzas and benches therein are erected, asis also a building to perform in when the weather will permit. There isalso a small battery towards the sea. At a little distance from thetown is a mineral spring which is said to be a very fine one thoughlittle used. Upon the hills near the church the Isle of Wight isfrequently seen on a clear day. About the town are very pleasant Downsfor the company to ride on, the air of which is accounted extremelywholesome, and about eight miles from Brighthelmstone on the Downs isone of the finest prospects in the world called Devil's Dyke. "

The literary associations of Brighton are many and various. CharlesLamb lived for some years is Sussex House, Ship Street. Paston Housewas the home of William Black before he removed to Rottingdean. Ainsworth produced a goodly portion of his historical novels at No. 5, Arundel Terrace, and at 4 Percival Terrace, Herbert Spencer spent thelast years of his life and here died. The name of Holyoake, the socialreformer, is connected with Eastern Lodge, Camelford Street. A list ofsuch names might be extended indefinitely, and if the celebrities whohave been regular visitors were mentioned the record would be endless, though it is said that Robert Browning never entered the town. Dr. Johnson stayed in West Street, when the Thrales lived there; he bathedwith the rest and, unlike the rest, abused the surroundings in hisusual manner, declaring that a man would soon be so overcome by thedismalness of the Downs that he would hang himself if he could but finda tree strong enough to bear his weight!

Every Dickensian would like to identify the house which the creator ofPaul Dombey had in mind when he painted the inimitable portrait of Mrs. Pipchin, "ogress and child queller, " whose castle "was in a steep byestreet.... Where the small front gardens had the property of producingnothing but marigolds, whatever was sown in them; and where snails wereconstantly discovered holding on to the street doors.... In the wintertime the air couldn't be got out of the Castle, and in the summer timeit couldn't be got in.... It was not naturally a fresh smelling house;and in the window of the front parlour, which was never opened, Mrs. Pipchin kept a collection of plants in pots, which imparted an earthyflavour of their own to the establishment. "

Little Paul afterwards went to Dr. Blimber's, which "was a mighty finehouse fronting the sea"; this has been identified as being on or nearthe site now occupied by the Metropole. Thackeray, whose verdict on thetown is quoted at the head of this chapter, laid several scenes amongthese squares and crescents and gave to one of his greatest charactersthe town's best known feature as a title. 

The extraordinary and incongruous building in the Steyne known as thePavilion was built by Nash at the instigation of George IV. Thearchitect cannot be entirely blamed for the monstrosity, the generalidea and "style" was no doubt conceived by his patron. This is how thePavilion impressed Cobbett: "Take a square box the sides of which arethree feet and a half and the height a foot and a half. Take a largeNorfolk turnip, cut of the green of the leaves, leave the stalk nineinches long, tie these round with a string three inches from the top, and put the turnip on the middle of the top of the box. Then take fourturnips of half the size, treat them in the same way, and put them onthe corners of the box. Then take a considerable number of bulbs, ofthe Crown-Imperial, the narcissus, the hyacinth, the tulip, the crocusand others; let the leaves of each have sprouted to about an inch moreor less according to the size of the bulb; put all these prettypromiscuously but pretty thickly on top of the box. Then stand off andlook at your architecture. "

[Illustration: THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON. ]

The building now belongs to the town, and the stables (The "Dome") forma very fine concert hall. The adjacent buildings, all part of thePavilion, are used as Museum, Library and Picture Gallery. Theresidence of Mrs. Fitzherbert still overlooks the Steyne, up the stepsof this house Barrymore drove his carriage and pair to the greatdetriment of both house and equipage. The Y. M. C. A. Now occupy thepremises. One of the best descriptions of the Regent's Brighton is in"Rodney Stone. "

It was about 1826 that the greatest growth in building took place; fromabout this period date those magnificent squares, Regency and Brunswickin Hove, and Sussex Square in Kemp Town. 

The Steyne is now a pleasant public garden; it was originally the"Stane" or rock upon which fishing nets were dried. St. Peter'sChurch at the north end was built in 1824 by Barry, and for itsperiod is not unpleasing. In Church Street is the only ancient churchin Brighton; it is dedicated to St. Nicholas; and was to a greatextent rebuilt in 1853. Note its fine gilt screen and the Norman fontwith a representation of the Lord's Supper and certain scenes connectedwith the sea, but too archaic to be actually identified. In a chantrychapel is the Wellington memorial, an ornate cross eighteen feet high. The Duke was a worshipper here while a pupil of the then vicar, and therestoration of the church was a part of the memorial scheme. CaptainTattersell, who was instrumental in the escape of Charles II, is buriedin the churchyard and a monument sets forth--

 "When Charles ye great was nothing but a breath, This valiant soul stept between him and death. "

Here is also a memorial to Phoebe Hessel, who fought as a private inthe fifth regiment of foot at the Battle of Fontenoy and died here aged108. 

There are several fine churches which have been built during recentyears, including St. Paul's in West Street; every excursionist knowsthis, and to thousands it is the only church in Brighton, being onthe direct route from the station to the sea. St. Martin's and St. Bartholomew's are open all day and are well worth a visit. TrinityChapel was the scene for six years of the incumbency of F. W. Robertson, and another preacher of more recent fame, R. J. Campbell, was for a timethe Minister of Union Street Congregational Church. 

[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS, BRIGHTON. ]

The old Chain Pier was, next to the Pavilion, the most distinctivefeature of the town; built in 1823 and paved with stone, it washistoric as the first pleasure pier. Swept away by a storm on the nightof December 4, 1896, old Brightonians must have felt that something hadgone from their lives when they looked from their windows next morning. 

One of the "institutions" of Brighton is the Aquarium; it contains avery good collection of Marine exhibits, not as much appreciated asthey should be. Of late years extra attractions have had to be addedand concerts and other entertainments help to keep the glass tanks andtheir occupants popular. 

Kemp Town, named after its speculative builder, has been but brieflyalluded to; it is to many the most attractive part of the great town, rising at the east end to a respectable height above the sea and withfine views of the Channel. Unlike its parent it has no "history"whatever. King Edward, during the last years of his life, took a likingto this part of Brighton, and in his honour the district was officiallyrenamed "King's Cliff, " but the new style does not seem to have becomepopular. On the other hand Hove, with its "Lawns" and imposing squares, has a past; the following note appears in the _Gentleman's Magazine_dated 1792: "Hoove, by some spelled Hove or Hova, lies on the roadbetween Brighthelmstone and New Shoreham, about two miles from theformer and four from the latter. It was one of the many lordships inthe county of Sussex which the Conqueror's survey records to have beenthe estate of Godwin Earl of Kent, in Edward the Confessor's time, andwhich after his death passed to his eldest son Harold, who beingafterwards King, was slain by the Norman Duke, who seized his lands andgave them to his followers. Long after this time, this place was aslarge and as considerable a village as the county could boast; but itis reduced, by the encroachment of the sea at different times, to abouta dozen dwellings. This place gives title to a prebend in the cathedralof Chichester; and the living, which is a vicarage united to Preston, is in the gift of the prebendary. Divine service is only performed inthe church once in six weeks, and, by appearance of the ruinous statein which it at present is, that will be soon entirely neglected. " Thischurch, dedicated to St. Andrew, has been practically rebuilt, thoughsome of the ancient features have been retained. Near the chancel dooris the grave of Charlotte Elliot, the hymn writer. Admiral Westphal, one of the officers of Nelson's "Victory, " is also interred here. Thenew parish church--All Saints--is of great magnificence and has costabout £50, 000. 

[Illustration: ST. PETER'S, BRIGHTON. ]

The western end of Hove, if we may believe some experts, has claims toa higher antiquity than any other locality between Pevensey and Bosham. Aldrington, as this district is called, is conjectured to have been theRoman "Portus Adurni, " of which Shoreham would then be the linealdescendant. On the other hand the identification of this mysteriousplace with any part of Sussex has been seriously challenged. Theestuary of the Adur then extended to Bramber. A glance at the two-inchOrdnance map of the district will make the old course of the riverquite clear. In Hove Park is the famous "grey wether, " called the"Goldstone. " This used to lay in Goldstone Bottom between the railwayand the Downs. Inspecting antiquaries proved such a nuisance that thefarmer on whose land it lay determined to bury it out of sight; thisalmost superhuman task was performed in 1833 and the stone remained inthe ground until 1902 when it was exhumed. 

Preston, the northern extension of Brighton, originally a small placeon the London road, has a pleasant park from which the suburb takes itsname. The one object of interest to the tourist is the Early Englishchurch which has some remarkable frescoes; these represent the murderof St. Thomas of Canterbury, with Our Lord revealing himself to themartyr; on the opposite side St. Michael is shown weighing a soul. Inthe nave is another picture of the nativity. A destructive fire, a fewyears ago, greatly damaged these and also the fabric of the church. Careful repair, however, has to a great extent restored the building toits original condition The altar consists of a seventeenth centurytomb. The old font was taken away to St. Saviour's Church, but has beenvery properly replaced. 

Brighton is not the best centre for the exploration of the central Downcountry. If a coast town is chosen Worthing is much better; from therethe real country is quickly reached, although the hills themselves arefarther away. But there are one or two excursions which obviouslybelong to Brighton, the most important being that to the Devil's Dykeand Poynings. A rather dull walk of over five miles from the Steyne, retrieved during the last two by fine views on the left hand, willbring us to the old stone posts labelled "The Dyke. " This road passesan interesting Museum of Ornithology collected by the late E. T. Booth. Here are to be seen cases of wild birds in their natural surroundingsplanned with greatest care by Mr. Booth, who gave a lifelong study tothe habits and environment of British birds. On the occasions on whichthe writer has visited the collection no other persons were present, and few residents seem to have heard of it. 

Trains run at frequent intervals from Brighton Central to the Dyke andpublic conveyances from the Aquarium. The excursion should not bemissed, though the visitor who is a stranger must be prepared for aregrettable amount of waste paper and broken bottles left about to marwhat would otherwise be one of the finest scenes in the Downs. Refreshment stalls and tea gardens help to vulgarize the surroundings, though the added desecration of aerial railway across the Dyke has beenremoved. 

The local legend is almost too well known to bear repetition. TheSussex native has a dislike, probably derived from his remoteancestors, to refer directly to the Devil, so the story has it that the"Poor Man, " becoming enraged at the number of churches built in theWeald, conceived the idea of drowning them by letting in the sea; hehad half finished the great trench, being forced (like his remoteprototype) to work at night, when an old lady, hearing the noise ofdigging, put her candle in a sieve and looked out of the window. TheDevil took it for sunrise and disappeared, a very simple fiend indeed!

[Illustration: POYNINGS. ]

The view from the edge of the escarpment with Poynings just below tothe right is very beautiful; away to the south-west is an eminencecalled "Thunder's Barrow, " probably Thor's Barrow; at the lower end ofthe Dyke is the Devil's Punch Bowl, here are two more barrows "TheDevil's Grave" and "The Devil's Wife's Grave. "

A visit to Poynings (locally "Punnings") should be combined with thisexcursion; this is a really pleasant and, as yet, unspoilt village. Onefeels nervous for its future, but the good taste of the inhabitants, combined with the formidable barrier of the hills, will, it is hoped, prevent it ever becoming a mere congeries of tea gardens and likeamenities. The fine cruciform church has a central tower and is EarlyPerpendicular; built by Baron de Poynings in the late fourteenthcentury it has many interesting details. Note the old thurible used asan alms box. The great south window was brought here from ChichesterCathedral. There is some good carved wood in the pulpit and rails. Theruins of Poynings Place, the one-time home of the Fitz-Rainalts, Baronsof Poynings, may still be seen. 

Newtimber Hill immediately east of the village is rarely visited andtherefore is not rendered unsightly in the manner of the Dyke. The viewis equally good and the Downs westward appear to even better advantagefrom this outlying point. A return could be made from Newtimber toPycombe, once famous for its manufacture of shepherds crooks--"PycoomHooks. " The village lies in the pass by which the London-Brighton roadcrosses the Downs. The old church has a twelfth century leaden font anda double piscina and is one of the highest in Sussex, being situated400 feet above the sea. This walk could very well be extended toinclude Wolstonbury Hill and Hurstpierpoint. 

The road running west from Poynings at the foot of the Downs wouldbring us to Fulking where is a memorial fountain to John Ruskin erectedby a brewer. Another two miles along it is Edburton, an unspoiltvillage under the shadow of Trueleigh Hill; the fine Early Englishchurch has a pulpit and altar rails presented by Archbishop Laud and aleaden font of the early twelfth century. Nine miles north of Brightonby road, and about half-way between the two London highways, either ofwhich may be taken, lies the large village or small town locally called"Hurst" and by the world at large, more romantically, Hurstpierpoint. The situation, with its wide and beautiful views over the surroundingcountry from Leith Hill and Blackdown to the ever present line of theDowns on the south, make it one of the pleasantest places in Sussex fora prolonged stay. St. John's College is one of the Woodard schools inconnexion with Lancing foundation (see page 103); it is a fine buildingwith an imposing chapel. The church is modern and was designed by SirCharles Barry. In the south transept is an effigy of an unknowncrusader and another of a knight in the north aisle. A brass in thechapel commemorates the fact that the martyred Bishop Hannington wasborn and held a curacy here. There are a number of memorials to theCampions, local squires and present owners of Danny; one of them runsthus:--

"Reader, bewail thy country's loss in the death of Henry Campion. Inhis life admire a character most amiable and venerable, of the Friendand Gentleman, and Christian. "

[Illustration: DANNY. ]

Danny is a beautiful specimen of the Elizabethan mansion at its best;it is built under the shadow of Wolstonbury Hill, one of the finest inshape of the outstanding bastions of the Downs, on the top of which isa circular camp with several pits within the vallum. The twin woods onthe slope of the hill are locally known as "Campion's Eyebrows, " theyare well seen in the accompanying sketch. 

[Illustration: HURSTPIERPOINT. ]

Hurstpierpoint may also be easily visited from Hassocks Station (2miles), from which we may also start on the last stage of our return toLewes. One mile east of the station is Keymer, a pleasant little placewith an uninteresting church which has been practically rebuilt. Ditchling, a mile further, has a very fine Transitional and EarlyEnglish church which will repay a visit. The nave is severely plain inthe older style; the chancel shows some untouched and very beautifulworkmanship. The east window is Geometrical, as are several in thenave, others are Decorated and, in the transept, Perpendicular. Notethe old font which was evidently at one time coloured; also the aumbry, piscina and sedile. The chalk arches are finely worked. In the villageare several old timber houses, including one said to have beeninhabited by Anne of Cleves. 

A walk of about two miles past Wick Farm or by Westmeston, over half amile farther, brings the traveller to the summit of this section of theDowns--Ditchling Beacon (813 feet). Until more accurate surveys weremade this was supposed to be the highest point of the whole range. 

"This most commanding down is crowned with the grassy mound andtrenches of an ancient earthwork, from whence there is a noble view ofhill and plain. The inner slope of the green fosse is inclined at anangle pleasant to recline on, with the head just below the edge, in thesummer sunshine. A faint sound as of a sea heard in a dream--a sibilant'sish, sish'--passes along outside, dying away and coming again as afresh wave of the wind rushes through the bennets and the dry grass. "(Richard Jefferies. )

[Illustration: WOLSTONBURY. ]

The views from Ditchling, though fine, are not nearly the best, forthere is a tameness in the immediate country to the north. A gloriouswalk, however, can be taken by keeping along the edge past "Black Cap, "the clump of trees about two miles east, and then either over or roundMount Harry to Lewes. Those who must see all the settlements of menshould proceed downwards to Westmeston, a beautiful little placeembowered in trees, some of which are magnificent in shape and size, particularly the great ash at the east of the church which is literallyovershadowed by the Beacon. The building is uninteresting and the muralpaintings dating from the twelfth century, which were discovered aboutfifty years ago, have not been preserved. It was near here that BaringGould speaks of seeing the carcasses of two horses and three calveshanging in a elm; on inquiry he was informed that this was considered"lucky for cattle. "

About a mile and a half north and two miles east of Ditchling villageis the lonely hamlet of Street. The "Place" is a grand old house datingfrom the reign of the first James; behind the chimney of the hall wasonce a spacious hiding place and a story is told of a Royalist fugitivewho _rode into it on his horse_ and was never again seen. The restoredchurch has a number of iron grave slabs and a monument to MarthaCogger, who was a "Pattern of Piety and Politeness. "

Nearly two miles on the Lewes road is Plumpton, chiefly famed for itssteeplechases which are held two miles away in the Weald and close toPlumpton station. The church is uninteresting. The "Place" is an oldmoated house, the property of Lord Chichester. The Leonard Mascall wholived here in the sixteenth century is said to have introduced thefirst carp from the Danube, the moat being used as their nursery. Notice the great V in firs on the face of the Downs; this is a memorialof the Victorian Jubliee; not particularly beautiful and leading one tospeculate upon its permanence. A cutting in the chalk would probablyrecommend itself to the pious care of coming ages when the personagecommemorated had either been entirely forgotten or had developed into alegendary heroine of fictitious character. That even cuttings are notalways permanent is proved close by, for only occasionally can thecross cut to commemorate the great battle of Lewes be seen; the turfshows but a different shade of green at certain times and under certainatmospheric conditions. 

The road to Lewes continues under the shadow of Mount Harry andeventually drops to the Lewes-London highway near Offham, remarkable asbeing the first place in the south where a line of rails was used forthe passage of goods. A turn to the right and we soon reach Lewes nearSt. Anne's Church. 

CHAPTER V

SHOREHAM AND WORTHING

Public conveyances run from Brighton to Shoreham several times each dayby Portslade and Southwick; the railway to Worthing also follows theroad and little will be lost if the traveller goes direct to NewShoreham. Portslade and Southwick churches have some points ofinterest, the latter a one time church of the Knights Templar, but theyare not sufficient compensation for the melancholy and depressingroute. After passing Hove the road is cut off from the sea by theeastern arm of Shoreham Harbour, and there follows a line of gas works, coal sidings and similar eyesores, almost all the way to Shoreham town. However, the explorer will be amply recompensed when he arrives at theold port at the mouth of the Adur. 

The original Saxon town had its beginnings at Old Shoreham, but, as theharbour silted up, the importance of the new settlement under Normanrule, exceeded all other havens between Portsmouth and Rye. Theoverlords were the powerful De Braose family, who have left their nameand fame over a great extent of the Sussex seaboard. 

[Illustration: PORTSLADE HARBOUR. ]

King John is known to have landed here after the death of Richard, andCharles II sailed from Shoreham after the Battle of Worcester. Thefugitive came across country accompanied by Lord Wilmot, and atBrighton fell in with the Captain Tattersell, whose grave we have seenthere. An arrangement was made by which he was to leave Shoreham in thecaptain's vessel; this was done the next morning and the King in duetime reached Fecamp safely. At the restoration the gallant captainreceived an annual pension of one hundred pounds. 

Shoreham is decidedly not the town to visit for an hour or two or forhalf a day. No one can possibly gain a correct impression of thesesmaller English towns by a casual call, as it were, between trains. Ashort stay, or two or three day visits (_not_ on "early closing" day)is the least one can do before claiming to know the place. 

New Shoreham is almost certain to disappoint on first acquaintance. Infact it may be described as mean and shabby! Other and competent judgeshave felt the charm of this old Seagate and one--Algernon CharlesSwinburne--has immortalized it in his glowing lines "On the SouthCoast":--

"Shoreham, clad with the sunset glad and grave with glory that deathreveres. "

Shoreham church is second only to the Cathedral at Chichester andBoxgrove Priory in interest. As will be seen by the fragments in thechurchyard a nave once made the building cruciform, and its proportionsthen would not have disgraced a small cathedral. A movement has been onfoot for some time to rebuild the nave on the old site and an offertorybox for this purpose will be seen within the church. 

[Illustration: SHOREHAM AND THE ADUR. ]

The prevailing effect of both exterior and interior is of solemn andstately age. The upper part of the tower is Transitional with certainlater additions. The base of the tower, the choir transepts, and thefragment still remaining of the nave are Norman and Transitional ofvery noble and dignified proportions. 

The vaulting will be noticed. This is Early English, also the beautifulornament on the capitals and the interesting mason's marks on thepillars. The marble font is a very good specimen of the square typecommon in this locality. A brass in the nave of a merchant and his ladyshould be noticed, also a piscina with trefoil ornament and a modernwindow in the north transept to the infants who died between 1850 and1875. There are a number of memorials to the Hooper family hereabouts. In this portion of the building the election of parliamentarycandidates once took place. 

The church owes nothing of its stateliness to a past connected withpriory or monastery, it has always been a parish church and is ofadditional interest thereby. That it always will hold this rank isanother matter; in these days of new sees one cannot tell that theparish church of to-day will not be the cathedral of to-morrow. Certainly Shoreham would wear the title with dignity. 

There are many quaint corners left in the town (which since 1910 hasbeen officially styled "Shoreham by Sea "), but the individuality ofthe place is best seen on the quay where a little shipbuilding is stillcarried on; in the reign of Edward III it supplied the Crown with afleet of twenty-six sail. The figure-head sign of the "Royal George"Inn may be noticed; this was salvaged from the ill-fated ship of thatname which sunk in Portsmouth Harbour. 

The Norfolk Suspension Bridge, still retaining its old-fashioned toll, carries the Worthing road across the river, at high tide a fineestuary, but at low a feeble trickle lost in a waste of mud. The viewof the town from the bridge is very charming, especially in the eveninglight. 

[Illustration: SKETCH PLAN OF OLD & NEW SHOREHAM. ]

At Old Shoreham, a mile up stream, is another bridge which, with thechurch, is the most painted, sketched and photographed of all Sussexscenes; few years pass without it being represented on the walls of theAcademy. This bridge is a very ancient wooden structure which has beenpatched and mended from time to time into a condition of extremepicturesqueness. The bridge leads to the "Sussex Pad, " a notedsmuggling hostelry in a situation ideal for the purpose, and then on toLancing and Sompting. 

The sturdy and grey old church which has seen so many centuries ofchange and decay in the life around it, which has even seen the veryface of nature alter in the haven beneath, has not changed in anyessential since the great De Braose of the eleventh century built it onthe foundations of its Saxon predecessor, whose massive walls stillsupport a goodly part of the Norman building. Almost the whole of theupper part of the church is Norman, though the chancel appears to havebeen restored at a later date. Note the fine pointed screen and therich moulding of the arches and door, also the carved tye-beam abovethe great arch which leads to the crossing. The nave is curiously dark, through the absence of windows; here may be seen the remains of theSaxon wall projecting beyond the line of the newer work. A low sidewindow near the southwest corner has been variously described as aconfessional, a hagioscope, and a leper window. 

The few small houses to the south of the church are all that now remainto show where the one time port stood; though none of the existingbuildings are contemporary with that period. 

[Illustraton: NEW SHOREHAM. ]

There is now a choice of ways. The direct route to Worthing goes acrossthe Norfolk Bridge and then by South Lancing ("Bungalow Town ") andcalls for no comment other than its fine marine views. The valley roadto Bramber and Steyning we propose to travel presently, and we will nowcross the old bridge by the "Sussex Pad, " lately rebuilt. Half a milefrom the inn the Down road to the right leads direct to the prominentgroup of buildings on a spur of the Downs which have been constantly inview during the walk from Shoreham. St. Nicholas', or Lancing, Collegewas founded in 1849 by Nicholas Woodard, an Anglican priest. It is partof a larger scheme, other colleges in connexion being at Hurstpierpointand Ardingly. The original school, established in 1848 at Shoreham, maystill be seen at the corner of Church Street; it is now a laundry. Thebuildings are dominated most effectively by the great pile of thecollege chapel 97 feet from roof to floor. The general effect is mostun-English and gives the west side of the Adur an air reminiscent ofNormandy or Picardy. 

Lancing is supposed to be derived from Wlencing, one of the sons ofElla. The church, originally Norman, has been much altered at varioustimes and is mainly Early English. The remains of an Easter Sepulchremay be seen in the north wall of the chancel and at the door themutilated fragment of a stoup. 

[Illustration: OLD SHOREHAM. ]

At the third mile from Shoreham is Sompting, famous for its church andwell known to Worthing visitors, who have a pleasant walk of about twoand a half miles by shady road and field path through Broadwater. Thechurch stands in a group of elms on the slope to the north of thevillage. The tower and part of the chancel are undoubtedly Saxon, theremainder of the church having been rebuilt in Norman and Early Englishtimes. Notice the characteristic bands of stonework which run round thetower and the long capitals of the central ribs. The gabled spire isalmost unique in this country and will awaken memories of Alsace forthose who know that land. A similar spire may be seen in another Downcountry, at Sarratt in Hertfordshire, and a modern example atSouthampton. Between the north side of the tower and the nave are theremains of a chapel erected by the Peverells. The interior of thechurch is equally uncommon and interesting, and the distressing newnesswhich follows most restorations is not seen here, the work of therestorer, Mr. Carpenter, having been most careful and sympathetic. Theoutline of the original windows may be traced in the chancel which isnow lit by Perpendicular openings. Over the altar is a tabernacle, notvery well seen. Notice the piscina with triangular arch, and a tomb, itis supposed, of Richard Bury, dating from the time of Henry VII; alsothe curious corbel face in the east aisle of the vaulted northtransept. The south transept is below the level of the nave; here aretwo mutilated pieces of sculpture, representing Our Lord with a bookand a seated bishop with his crozier. The font is placed in a recesswhich formerly held an altar. The church became the property of theKnights Templar and a portion of the manor was held by the Abbey ofFécamp; the adjoining manor-house being still known as SomptingAbbotts; this house was for a short period the home of Queen Caroline. 

[Illustration: SOMPTING. ]

Enjoyable rambles may be taken by any of the numerous by-roads whichlead northwards into the heart of the Downs by Roman Ditch, Beggar'sBush and Cissbury. It is proposed, however, to leave a more particulardescription of this country to that portion of our longer route toWorthing viâ Washington, for which we must return to Shoreham, and nowto take the road which runs by the Adur to Upper Beeding. On the waywill be noticed the little church at Coombe backed by the Downs; thishas an unmistakable Saxon window in the nave, and a medieval crucifixdiscovered in 1877. Higher up the river is the little old church ofBotolph's, which may be Saxon so far as the chancel arch is concerned, Both these churches are very old and quite untouched by the restorer. At Upper Beeding the Priory of Sele once stood where is now thevicarage; the Early English church is of small interest and need notdetain us. 

[Illustration: COOMBES. ]

Bramber (Brymburgh) Castle holds the same position for the valley ofthe Adur that Lewes does for the Ouse and Arundel for the Arun. Thestronghold antedates by many centuries the great Norman with whose nameit is always coupled. Some authorities claim Bramber to have been thePortus Adurni that we have already connected with Aldrington; howeverthat may be, Roman remains have been discovered here in the form ofbridge foundations and it is more than possible that a British fortstood either on or near the hillock where William de Braose improvedand rebuilt the then existing castle; this, with the barony, wasgranted to him by the Conqueror, and the family continued for manyyears to be the most powerful in Mid-Sussex. After the line failed, theproperty went to the Mowbrays and afterwards to the Howards, in whosehands it still remains. It was through this connexion that the title ofDuke of Norfolk came to the holders of Arundel. Thomas Mowbray was madefirst Duke in 1388, and when the line ceased and the property changedhands the title went with it. It is possible that the army of theParliament destroyed the castle in the Civil War, though no actualrecords prove this. A skirmish took place here between the Royalistsand their opponents and is described in a letter addressed to a certainSamuel Jeake of Rye by one of the latter:--

"The enemy attempted Bramber Bridge, but our brave Carleton andEvernden with his Dragoons and our horse welcomed them with drakes andmuskets, sending some eight or nine men to hell, I feare, and onetrooper to Arundell prisoner, and one of Captain Evernden's Dragoons toheaven. " It was the scene of a narrow escape for Charles II in hisflight to Brighton. The poor remnants of the Castle are now an excusefor picnickers who are not always reverent, in point of tidiness, towards what was once a palace of the Saxon Kings. 

[Illustration: UPPER BEEDING. ]

Bramber village is most picturesque and attractive; its size renders itdifficult to believe that within living memory it returned two membersto Parliament. Some amusing stories are told of the exciting electionsin olden days, when as much as £1, 000 were offered and refused for asingle vote. This "borough" once returned Wilberforce the Abolitionist, of whom it is told that on passing through and being acquainted withthe name of the village exclaimed "Bramber? why that's the place I'mmember for. "

[Illustration: BRAMBER. ]

The church lies close under the south wall of the castle; only the naveand tower remain of the original cruciform building. Although thearches are Norman and show the original frescoes, a claim was made byDr. Green, Rector in 1805, that "in rebuilding the church at his ownexpense about twenty years before, he had no assistance except that theDuke of Rutland and Lord Calthorpe, joint proprietors of the borough, each gave £25, Magdalen College £50 and Mr. Lidbetter, an opulent localfarmer, £20; but the Duke of Norfolk, Lord of the Manor, nothing!" This"rebuilding" refers to the re-erection of the tower arches, the spacebetween being converted into a chancel. New windows in Norman stylewere inserted in 1871 to bring the east end into harmony with the nave. 

[Illustration: ST. MARY'S, BRAMBER. ]

St. Mary's is the first house to be seen on approaching the villagefrom the east. It is a beautiful specimen of a timber-built Sussexhouse; notice the open iron-work door with its queer old bell-pull. 

Every visitor should inspect the quaint museum of taxidermy in thevillage street; here guinea-pigs may be seen playing cricket, ratsplaying dominoes and rabbits at school; the lifelike and humorousattitudes of the little animals reflect much credit on the artist. 

Steyning is a short mile farther on our way (both Bramber and Steyningare stations on the Brighton Railway). This was another borough until1832 but, unlike its neighbour, it was of considerable importance inthe early middle ages and at the Domesday survey there were twochurches here. The one remaining is of great interest; built by theAbbey of Fécamp to whom Edward the Confessor gave Steyning, it wasevidently never completed; preparations were made for a central towerand the nave appears to be unfinished. The styles range from EarlyNorman to that of the sixteenth century when the western tower wasbuilt. Particular notice should be taken of the pier-arches which arevery beautifully decorated; also the south door. 

The original church was founded by St. Cuthman. Travelling from thewest with his crippled mother, whom he conveyed in a wheelbarrow, hewas forced to mend the broken cords with elder twigs. Some haymakers ina field jeered at him, and on that field, now called the Penfold, ashower has always fallen since whenever the hay is drying. The eldertwigs finally gave way where Steyning was one day to be and hereCuthman decided to halt and build a shelter for his mother and himself. Afterwards he raised a wooden church and in this the saint was buried. The father of the great Alfred was interred here for a time, hisremains being afterwards taken to Winchester when his son made thatcity the capital of united England, though the Anglo-Saxon Chronicleasserts that the King was buried at Worcester. 

[Illustration: STEYNING. ]

Steyning was once known as Portus Cuthmanni and to this point the tidalestuary of the Adur then reached. There are a number of fine old housesin the little town, some with details which show them to date from thefifteenth century. The gabled house in Church Street was built byWilliam Holland of Chichester as a Grammar School in 1614; it is knownas "Brotherhood Hall. " The vicarage has many interesting details of thesixteenth century and in the garden are two crosses of very early date, probably Saxon. 

[Illustration: GRAMMAR SCHOOL, STEYNING. ]

The bygone days of Steyning seem to have been almost as quiet as itsmodern history. A burning of heretics took place here in 1555; and thetroops of the Parliament took quiet possession of the town whenbesieging near-by Bramber, but Steyning had not the doubtful privilegeof a castle and so its days were comparatively uneventful. 

[Illustration: OLD HOUSES, STEYNING. ]

The main road may be left at the north end of Steyning by a turning onthe left which rises in a mile and a half to Wiston ("Wisson") Park andchurch; this is the best route for the ascent of Chanctonbury. The parkcommands fine views and is in itself very beautiful; the house datesfrom 1576, though several alterations have spoilt the purity of itsstyle. This manor was once in the hands of the de Braose family, fromwhom it passed by marriage to the Shirleys, another famous family. SirThomas Shirley built the present house about 1578. It was Sir HughShirley to whom Shakespeare referred in _King Henry IV_. 

 "Hold up thy head, vile Scot, or thou art like Never to hold it up again. The spirits Of Shirley, Stafford, Blount, are in my arms. "

His great-grandsons were the famous Shirley brothers, whose adventureswere so wonderful that their deeds were acted in a contemporary play. One went to Persia to convert the Shah and bring him in on the side ofthe Christian nations against the Ottomans. On the way he discoveredcoffee! His younger brother, who accompanied him, remained in Persiaand married a Circassian princess. The elder, after being takenprisoner by the Turks, was liberated by the efforts of James I and thenimprisoned in the Tower by the same King for his interference in theLevant trade. Ruined in pocket and with a broken heart he sold Wistonand retired to the Isle of Wight. The estates soon afterwards passed tothe Gorings, who still own them. 

Wiston church, which stands in the park and close to the house, contains several monuments to the Shirleys and one of a child, possiblya son of Sir John de Braose; a splendid brass of the latter lies on thefloor of the south chapel; it is covered with the words 'Jesu Mercy. 'There are a number of dilapidated monuments and pieces of sculptureremaining in the church, which has been spoilt, and some of the detailsand monuments actually destroyed, by ignorant and careless"restoration. "

To the north-west of Wiston Park is Buncton Chapel, a little oldbuilding in which services are occasionally held. The walls showunmistakable Roman tiles. 

Chanctonbury (locally "Chinkerbury"), one of the most commanding anddignified of the Down summits, rises 783 feet on the west of Wiston;the climb may be made easier by taking the winding road opposite thechurch. The "ring" which is such a bold landmark for so many milesaround makes a view from the actual top difficult to obtain. The wholeof the Weald is in sight and also the far-off line of the North Downsbroken by the summits of Holmbury and Leith Hill with Blackdown to theleft. In the middle distance is St. Leonard's Forest, and away to theright Ashdown Forest with the unmistakable weird clump of firs at WychCross. But it is the immediate foreground of the view which will bemost appreciated. The prehistoric entrenchment is filled with thebeeches planted by Mr. Charles Goring of Wiston when a youth (about1760). In his old age (1828) Mr. Goring wrote the following:--

 "How oft around thy Ring, sweet Hill, A Boy, I used to play, And form my plans to plant thy top On some auspicious day. How oft among thy broken turf With what delight I trod, With what delight I placed those twigs Beneath thy maiden sod. And then an almost hopeless wish Would creep within my breast, Oh! could I live to see thy top In all its beauty dress'd. That time's arrived; I've had my wish, And lived to eighty-five; I'll thank my God who gave such grace As long as e'er I live. Still when the morning sun in Spring, Whilst I enjoy my sight, Shall gild thy new-clothed Beech and sides, I'll view thee with delight. "

Chanctonbury must have had an overpowering effect on our ancestors; thecorrespondent quoted below perhaps saw the hill through one of themists which come in from the sea and render every object monstrous ormysterious. 

"Chanckbury, the Wrekin or Cenis of the South Downs, is said to be1, 000 _perpendicular yards_ above the level of the sea; on the summumjugum, or vertex, is a ring of trees planted by Mr. Goring of Whiston, and if they were arrived at maturity, would form no indifferentimitation of an ancient Druidical grove. " (_Gentleman's Magazine_, 1819. )

The descent from the ring is made past a pond whose origin is unknown;judging by its appearance it may well have supplied the men who firstoccupied the fortifications on the hill top. The white path beloweventually leads, by a narrow and steep gully, very slippery afterrain, directly to the village of Washington on the Horsham-Worthinghigh road. The church stands above the village in a picturesquesituation, but is of little interest. With the exception of the tower, it was rebuilt in 1866. Here is a sixteenth-century tomb of John Bynefrom the old building, and in the churchyard may be seen the grave ofCharles Goring. Hillaire Belloc has immortalized the village innthus:--

 "They sell good beer at Haslemere And under Guildford Hill; At little Cowfold, as I've been told, A beggar may drink his fill. There is good brew at Amberley too. And by the bridge also; But the swipes they takes in at the Washington Inn Is the very best beer I know. "

A great find of silver coins of the time of the last Saxon Kings wasmade in 1866 on Chancton Farm; a ploughman turning up an urn containingover three thousand. This was an effective rebuke to those who laugh at"old wives' tales, " for a local tradition of buried treasure must havebeen in existence for eight hundred years. 

[Illustration: CHANCTONBURY RING. ]

A motor-bus runs here from Worthing and then westwards as far asStorrington on the branch road to Pulborough. Storrington has almostthe status of a small town and lays claim to fame as the birthplace ofTom Sayers, the prize-fighter, and of an equally famous prince ofcommerce in whose honour a metropolitan street has recently beenrenamed "Maple" (late "_London_") Street. The church has been almostspoilt by "restorers, " but there are fine tombs by Westmacott and abrass of the sixteenth century. Near the church is a modern RomanCatholic Priory; the beautiful chapel is always open and should beseen. It is, however, for its fine situation opposite Kithurst Hilland its convenience as a centre from which to explore this beautifulsection of the Down country that Storrington is important to theexplorer of Downland. Within easy reach are the quiet stretches of theArun at Pulborough and Amberley, and Parham (p. 191) is within threemiles. The line of lofty hills on the south are seldom visited, mosttourists being content with Chanctonbury. Near the Downs, about a milesouth-east, lies the little church of Sullington under its two greatyews, very primitive and at present unrestored; most of the work seemsto be Early English. Here is an effigy of an unknown knight, also anold stone coffin. A footpath leads direct to Washington where we turntowards the sea, climbing by the Worthing road the narrow pass whichcuts between the Downs and drops to Findon. This is another beautifullyplaced village with a Transitional and Early English church in anadjacent wood and, for strangers, rather difficult to find. In thechancel is a doorway in a curious position between two seats. A Normanarch, probably the relic of an older building, fills the opening of atransept on the south side. A former rector in 1276 must have brokenall records in the matter of pluralities; besides Findon he heldlivings in Salisbury, Hereford, Rochester, Coventry, two inLincolnshire, and seven in Norfolk, also holding a canonry of St. Paul's and being Master of St. Leonard's Hospital in York. 

[Illustration: FINDON. ]

Findon is noted for its racing stables; the hills and combes on theeast forming an ideal galloping ground. The walks over Black Patch andHarrow Hill are among the best in the central Downs. East of thevillage a path leads to Cissbury Ring (603 feet). "Cissa's Burgh" wasthe Saxon name for this prehistoric fortress which was adapted and usedby the Romans, as certain discoveries have proved. Cissa was a son ofElla and has given his name to Chichester also. The foundations of abuilding may be seen in dry summers within the rampart; this isprobably Roman. On the western slopes are some pits which may be theremains of a British village. But stone weapons, some of rude form andothers highly finished, prove the greater antiquity of the camp. Aboutsixty acres are enclosed within the trench, and approaches to it weremade on the north, east and south. Cissbury is thus the largestentrenchment on the Downs and must have been one of the most importantin the south. The views seawards are very fine and the stretch of coastis one of the longest visible from any part of the range Below thesouthern side of the fosse, on the slope that brings us down toBroadwater, is the reputed site of a Roman vineyard; the locality stillgoes by this name and certainly the situation, a slope facing south andprotected from cold winds, is an ideal one for the culture of thegrape. 

Broadwater is now a suburb of Worthing. Here is a very interestingTransitional-Norman cruciform church, at one time magnificent in itsappurtenances, no fewer than six chantry chapels being attached; theremains of these were done away with in the early nineteenth century. Note the old altar stone in the floor of the chancel, also on theexterior north wall a dedication cross in flints. In the chancel is abrass to John Mapleton, 1432, chancellor of Joan of Navarre, and thereare two fine tombs, one of Thomas Lord de la Warre (1526) and the otherof the ninth of that line (1554). John Bunnett, interred in 1734, aged109, had six wives, three of whom he married and buried after he was100! The church has a modern association which will be of interest toall lovers of wild nature; here in 1887 Richard Jeffries was buried. One cannot but think that the great naturalist would have been morefittingly laid to rest in one of the lonely little God's-acres whichnestle in the Downs he loved so well. 

[Illustration: BROADWATER. ]

Worthing until the end of the eighteenth century was a mere suburb ofBroadwater; its actual beginnings as a watering place were nearlycontemporary with those of Brighton. When the Princess Amelia came herein 1799 the fortunes of the town were made, and ever since it hassteadily, though perhaps slowly, increased in popular favour. The threemiles of "front, " which is all that fifty per cent, of its visitorsknow of Worthing, are unimposing and in places mean and ratherdepressing in architecture, but this is atoned for by the stretch ofhard clean sands laid bare at half tide, a pleasant change after thediscomfort of Brighton shingle. As a residential town, pure and simple, Worthing is rapidly overtaking its great rival, and successful businessmen make their money in the one and live in the other, as though theQueen of Watering-places were an industrial centre. Worthing has agreat advantage in its fine old trees; as a matter of fact the placewould be unbearably arid and glaring without them in the summer months, for it has undoubtedly proved its claim to be the sunniest south coastresort; a claim at one time or other put forth by all. The mostconvincing proof to the sceptical stranger will be the miles of glasshouses for the culture of the tomato with which the town is surrounded. Its chief attraction lies in the number of interesting places which caneasily be reached in a short time and with little trouble. The Downshere are farther off than those at Brighton, but are of much greaterinterest, and public motors take one easily and cheaply into theirheart as we have already shown. The South Coast Railway runs east andwest to Shoreham and Arundel, reaching those super-excellent towns inless than half an hour; and of the walks in the immediateneighbourhood, all have goals which well repay the effort expended inreaching them. 

Sompting, which can be combined with Broadwater as an excursion, hasalready been described; we therefore turn westward again and passingthe suburb of Heene, now called West Worthing, arrive, in two and ahalf miles from the Town Hall, at the village of Goring. Its rebuiltchurch is of no interest. Here Richard Jeffries died in the August of1887. A mile farther is West Ferring with a plain Early English church;notice the later Perpendicular stoup at the north door and the piscina, which has a marble shelf. The Manor House is on the site of an ancientbuilding in which St. Richard of Chichester lived after his banishmentby Henry III, and here the saint is said to have miraculously fedthree-thousand poor folk with bread only sufficient for a thirtieth ofthat number. 

[Illustration: SALVINGTON MILL. ]

A pleasant ramble through the lanes north of the village leads toHighdown Hill, perhaps the most popular excursion from Worthing; thetop has an earthwork probably dating from the stone age. Human remainsof a later date were found here in 1892, also coins, weapons andpersonal ornaments belonging to the time of the Roman occupation. The"Miller's Tomb" is on the side nearest Worthing; it has representationsof Time and Death with some verses composed by the miller, JohnOlliver. A cottage on the other side of the hill stands on the site ofthe mill. The view is particularly fine both Downwards and seawards, though the hill is not half the altitude of Cissbury. Northwards arethe beautiful woods of Castle Goring, once the residence of theShelleys, through which we may walk to Clapham and Patching, villageson southern spurs of the Downs; the latter has a restored Early Englishchurch with a very beautiful modern reredos. Clapham has a Transitionalchurch containing memorials of the Shelley family. Notice theblocked-up Norman arch which proves the existence of an earlierbuilding. On the south is a venerable farmhouse, ancient andpicturesque. 

[Illustration: OLD HOUSES AT LARRING. ]

The return journey to Worthing may be taken through Salvington, passingthe ruins of Durrington chapel; at the south end of the village at thecottage named "Lacies" John Selden was born in 1584. On the door postis a Latin inscription said to have been composed by him when ten yearsold; it runs thus:--

 Gratus, honeste, mihi, non claudar, initio sedebis, Fur abeas non sum facta soluta tibi. 

Translated by Johnson:--

 Walk in and welcome; honest friends, repose; Thief, get thee hence, to thee I'll not unclose. 

Selden's father was a wandering minstrel and the birthplace of thegreat jurist was humble even for those days. 

[Illustration: BECKET'S PALACE, TARRING. ]

A short walk southwards brings us to West Tarring, which is practicallya suburb of Worthing. Here is a very fine Early English andPerpendicular church with a lofty spire. Notice the beautiful modernmosaics depicting the Prophets and Apostles. Also the old miserereseats and an ancient muniment chest. The window under the tower is inmemory of Robert Southey whose daughter married a onetime vicar ofTarring. Another incumbent here was Stripe the historian. 

A peculiarity noticeable in many country churchyards may be remarkedhere--the reluctance to bury on the north side of the church (thoughstrangely enough this has been reversed at near-by Ferring). In manychurchyards, where the ground is as extensive on the north side as onthe others, the grave digger's spade has left it either quite untouchedor the graves are few in number and mostly of recent date. 

West Tarring was once a market town and several good specimens ofmedieval and Tudor domestic architecture still exist. It was once a"peculiar" of the Archbishops of Canterbury, and the remains of thearchiepiscopal palace may be seen in the school house on the east ofthe church. In the rectory orchard close by is the "columbarium, " orall that is left of it. Becket is said to have occupied the palace. Thecelebrated fig orchard is supposed to have been raised from slipsplanted by him, though another story has it that the original planterwas St. Richard. The present orchard is of much interest and dates fromthe year of the "forty-five, " though it can well be believed that someof the trees are older; the venerable patriarch in the centre is knownas "St. Thomas, " but this is of course impossible. A most remarkableoccurrence takes place annually at the ripening of the fruit; a smallbird similar to, if not identical with the _Beccafico_ ("Figeater") ofItaly visits the orchards here and at Sompting, stays a few weeks andthen departs until the next season; it is seen in no other part ofEngland. 

CHAPTER VI

ARUNDEL AND THE ARUN

There is a choice of roads between Worthing and Arundel: that whichkeeps to the low lands has been partly traversed in the journey to WestFerring. 

About two miles east of this village, and close to Angmering station, are the twin villages of East and West Preston; the former has a Normanand Transitional church with one of the four stone spires in Sussex. AtRustington, a mile farther, is a more interesting Early English churchwith a Transitional tower. Note the ancient sculpture in the northtransept, also the squint and rood-loft steps. This village is but ashort distance from Littlehampton, which may be approached by the shoreroad. 

The country about here seen from the flats appears to be thicklywooded, an effect that is produced by the screen of tall trees in everyhedgerow, untouched until time levels them, in return for theirprotection of the growing crops from the searching sea winds whichsweep across the level fields to the Downs. Vegetation here has adifferent aspect from that on the other side of the wall of hills. InMay and early June one may come from the tender green of the Washingtonlanes over the pass through Findon and find the spring livery of thelowland hedgerows temporarily blackened and withered. 

[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF THE ARUN. ]

The direct way to Arundel, and also the most interesting and beautiful, is by Castle Goring, reached by the Broadwater road. A short distancepast the Goring woods a side road on the left leads to Angmering. Herethe rebuilt church retains its old chancel and tower with an inscribedstone over the doorway. Returning by a shorter lane northwards to themain road we pass New Place, once a mansion but now converted into agroup of cottages; it is famous as the birthplace of the three sons ofSir Edward Palmer, who were born on three consecutive Sundays, acircumstance probably unique in natal annals. All three were afterwardsknighted by Henry VIII. 

The foothills of the Downs to the right are hereabouts very beautiful;one of the spurs is occupied by Angmering Park belonging to the Duke ofNorfolk. At Poling, on a tributary of the Arun southwards, is a decoyfor wild fowl. Here is a Perpendicular church containing afourteenth-century brass to a former priest, one Walter Davey. A chapelbelonging to a commandery of the Knights of St. John still stands nearthe church; it has been converted into a modern dwelling house. 

[Illustration: ARUNDEL FROM THE RIVER. ]

The first view of Arundel as it is approached from the Worthing road orfrom the railway station is almost unique in England. Bridgnorth, thenorthern Richmond, Rye, all cities set on a hill, come to the mind forcomparison, but none have the "foreign" look of Arundel; this is to alarge extent helped by the towering church of St. Philip Neri; theapsidal end and the great height of the building in proportion to itslength, appear more in keeping with northern France than southernEngland. The town, when one comes to close quarters with it, has afeudal air, and indeed this is as much a matter of fact as of fancy. Arundel is a survival, and depends for its existence on the magnificenthome of the Howards which dominates domestically and ecclesiasticallythe town at its feet. The castle has the same relation to the pass ofthe Arun that Bramber and Lewes have to the Adur and Ouse, but the factthat it is still the ancestral home of an ancient and historic familygives it a far greater interest than either of the others possesses. The castle is mentioned in Domesday Book, and prior to this in the willof Alfred the Great. The earldom was given by the Conqueror to Roger ofMontgomery; in addition to the castle and its immediate neighbourhoodit comprised wide and rich possessions in the surrounding country. Bytheir treason to the Crown the Montgomerys soon forfeited the estatesand the Earldom passed through the hands of Queen Adeliza, and her sonde Albrin, and then to the Fitz-Alans, who held it for over threehundred years. The daughter of the last Earl married the fourth Duke ofNorfolk and this family have held it ever since. They have made ittheir principal home and have built in recent years the magnificenttemple of the older faith which dwarfs and overshadows the parishchurch. This itself has felt the might of the great family who, as weshall presently see, imposed their will on the representatives of theEstablishment. 

[Illustration: ARUNDEL CASTLE. ]

"What house has been so connected with our political and religiousannals as that of Howard? The premiers in the roll-call of our nobilityhave been also among the most persecuted and ill-fated. Not to dwell onthe high-spirited Isabelle, Countess Dowager of Arundel, and widow ofHugh, last earl of the Albini family, who upbraided Henry III to hisface with 'vexing the church, oppressing the barons, and denying allhis true born subjects their right'; or Richard, Earl of Arundel, whowas executed for conspiring to seize Richard II--we must think withindignation of the sufferings inflicted by Elizabeth on Philip, Earl ofArundel, son of the 'great' Duke of Norfolk, beheaded by Elizabeth in1572 for his dealings with Mary Queen of Scots. In the biography ofEarl Philip, which, with that of Ann Dacres his wife, has been welledited by the fourteenth Duke, we find that he was caressed byElizabeth in early life, and steeped in the pleasures and vices of hercourt by her encouragement, to the neglect of his constant young wife, whose virtues, as soon as they reclaimed him to his duty to her, rendered him hated and suspected by the Queen, so that she made him thesubject of vindictive and incessant persecution, till death releasedhim at the age of thirty-eight. To another Howard, Thomas, son of EarlPhilip, the country is indebted for those treasures of the East, theArundel marbles. "

(_Quarterly Review_: Hare. )

[Illustration: THE KEEP, ARUNDEL. ]

The castle, though not that portion at which we have been looking, hasbeen besieged on three important occasions; in 1102 by Henry I, to whomit surrendered. By Stephen, on its giving hospitality to the EmpressMaud; and by Waller, who captured it after seventeen days' siege with athousand prisoners. Artillery mounted on the tower of the church playedgreat havoc with the building and it remained in a ruinous conditionuntil practically rebuilt by the tenth Duke in the latter part of theeighteenth century. 

We commence the ascent of the keep, which is the only part shown to thepublic (usually on Mondays only) by way of the clock tower which onceformed the entrance to the inner courts. We can now see the remnants ofRichard Fitz-Alan's buildings (1290). A flight of steps leads to theKeep, the older portion of which was built by the same Earl; the wallsare in places ten feet thick. In the centre a well descends to thestoreroom of the garrison, which is cut out of the solid chalk. Overthe entrance note the remains of St. Martin's chapel; from the windowis a magnificent view towards Littlehampton. The openings in the floorsuggest the use of boiling liquid for the heads of besiegers. 

The Keep was once famous for its owls, the older members of the colonybeing known by appropriate names, such as that recorded in the story ofthe Ducal butler who convulsed the guests one evening by announcing, "Please, your Grace, Lord Thurlow has laid an egg. "

[Illustration: ARUNDEL GATEWAY. ]

The views in every direction are very fine and the nearer prospectproves to the observer the unrivalled position which the fortress heldas guardian of one of the most important of the routes between Londonand the Continent by way of the Port of Littlehampton. In the distantview "The Island" is conspicuous on clear days with ChichesterCathedral spire in the middle distance. Eastwards is Highdown Hill andthe country round Worthing, North the beautiful valley of the Arun andthe lovely tree-clad slopes of the Downs of which the nearer spurs formArundel Park. 

The "state" and residential portions of the castle are never shown tothe general public. In the fine collection of pictures are a number ofVan Dycks and Holbeins, mostly portraits of the Fitz-Alans and Howards. 

The entrance to the chancel of Arundel Church, now the Fitz-AlanChapel, is from the castle grounds. Permission to inspect the famoustombs is rarely given. A lawsuit in the last century attempted therecovery of the chancel for the parishioners of Arundel, but wasineffectual owing to the fact that the chapel was originally that ofthe college of Holy Trinity, founded in 1380 by Richard Fitz-Alan; thispassed to its present possessors at the Dissolution. The Lady Chapelretains its old altar stone with consecration crosses, and above is awindow with some fragments of stained glass. In the centre is the tombof the sixteenth Earl (1421) and a modern tomb of Lord Henry Howard. Anumber of interesting brasses may also be seen. The main portion of thechapel contains the more famous tombs, the effigies being highlyinteresting studies of the state dress of various periods. Earl Thomasand his Countess, daughter of King John of Portugal, (1415) occupy thecentre; the others are Earl John (1435) under the east arch. William, nineteenth Earl (1488), in a chantry on the south side. On the northare Thomas (1524) and William (1544). A tablet over Earl William'schantry is in memory of the last Fitz-Alan, Earl Henry (1580). 

[Illustration: ARUNDEL CHURCH. ]

The fine parish church is separated from the chancel by a screen wall. It dates from 1380 and now consists of nave and transepts, the spaceunder the tower being used as the choir. An ancient canopied pulpit isplaced against the south-west pier. On the north side are frescoes ofthe Seven Deadly Sins and the Seven Works of Mercy. The modern ornatereredos shows with great effect against the curious arrangement of irongrill and bare brick which forms the screen wall. The church was onceattached to the Monastery of Seez in Normandy. 

The magnificent modern Roman Catholic church of St. Philip Neri is opento visitors between the services. It is built in the purest style ofDecorated Gothic and has already cost over one hundred thousand pounds. Notice, before entering, the statues of the Twelve Apostles at the westend beneath the fine "rose" window. On entering, the imposing effect ofthe clustered columns and beautiful apse will be admired. Unlike mostRoman churches there is but little colour displayed, the "Stations ofthe Cross" being bas-reliefs in the aisle walls. The subdued yetglowing tints in the stained glass help the general effect ofrestrained dignity. 

[Illustration: PLAN OF THE CASTLE & TOWN, ARUNDEL. ]

In the lower portion of the town, the scanty remains of Maison Dieushow the position of that retreat, founded by Earl Richard, who builtthe church; the house provided for twenty inmates. The piers of Arunbridge were built out of the ruins in 1742. 

The park will probably prove the most satisfactory of the sights ofArundel to the ordinary visitor, who is here allowed to wander where hewill. The road passing under the castle to the right should be taken asfar as a small gate on the left, by the mill, entering which weimmediately see the Swanbourne Lake in all its beauty. 

"The mill is situated beneath the castle, on the east side, at the headof the stream by which the ancient Swanbourne Lake discharges itselfinto the river, and most probably occupies the site of the originalbuilding mentioned in _Domesday_. Perhaps, of all the beautiful spotsin the neighbourhood of Arundel, none comprises more real beauty thanthis. The valley in front, shaded by the willows and the ash whichadorn the little islands of the lake, and winding its way in thedistance among the hills; the castle projecting boldly from theeminence on the left; the steep acclivities on each hand, clothed totheir summit with luxuriant forest trees ... Present a scene in whosepresence the lapse of centuries will be easily forgotten. " (Tierney. )

The charm of the spot is not in any way spoilt, obvious care beingtaken to keep the surroundings spotless; although picnickers areallowed where they will, here are no scraps of paper or broken bottles, the efficient service of "clearing up" is at work in the early hours ofthe morning, which is the right time to see the park. The visitorshould continue round the left bank and up the hill to Hiorne's Tower, from which a magnificent view of the Arun valley and the surroundingDowns is to be had. Equally beautiful is that from the brow of the hilloverlooking the Arun, from which point the castle makes an effectivepicture with the broad sweep of the sea and lowlands behind. The Downsare here at their best and the glorious woods of beech and oak aresuperb in October, and that month, with late May as an alternative, isthe best time to see the western Downs. The Castle Dairy is open to thepublic, usually on the same days that the Keep may be seen. The Dairydates from 1847 and has the appearance more of a monastic establishmentthan of farm buildings. 

[Illustration: LYMINSTER. ]

The exploration of the valley of the Arun must be commenced by turningdown the stream to see that least interesting section which liesbetween Arundel and the sea. At the mouth of the river stands the oldport of Littlehampton, the direct road to which leaves the Arun to theright and passing Lyminster (Lemster), sometimes spelt Leominster, which has a restored Transitional church, enters Littlehampton near theRailway station. The river road goes by way of Ford, where there is alittle church interesting by reason of its many styles. According toMr. P. M. Johnson they range from Norman (and perhaps Saxon) rightthrough to Caroline. Nearly two miles west is another interestingchurch at Yapton, which has a black granite font, ornamented withcrosses and probably pre-Norman. The interior of the church shows workof an archaic character usually described as early Norman. The inn herehas a sign--"The Shoulder of Mutton and Cucumbers"--which must be asunique as it is mysterious. 

[Illustration: CLYMPING. ]

Continuing south we reach in another mile the very fine Early Englishchurch at Clymping. The tower is Transitional. The artist has sketchedthe beautiful doorway, one of the finest in Sussex. Notice also the oldstone pulpit and ancient chest. The road running directly south leadsto the coast at Atherington, where are the remains of a chapel attachedto the "Bailiff's Court House, " a moated mediaeval building withportions of a cloister. The Bailiff was the local representative of theAbbey of Seez already referred to. The Littlehampton road turns easthalf a mile beyond Clymping and after a dull stretch of over a milecrosses the Arun by Littlehampton (swing) Bridge. 

The ancient seaport, never of more than local importance, has given wayto a watering place almost entirely devoted to children. From thenumber of nursemaids seen on the beach on an average summer day and thescarcity of other adults one is forced to the conclusion that patronsof this resort use it as a dumping ground for their offspring whilethey enjoy themselves elsewhere. The firm clean sands are ideal forpaddling and castle building, and many ephemeral Arundels arise betweentides. The ebb and flow in the Arun interfere with what would otherwisebe an enjoyable trip up stream, but with skill and care there is littledanger. Littlehampton shows few traces of its antiquity, the church wasrebuilt in the last century and is of no interest, but there are manygood walks in the neighbourhood and the immediate country isbeautifully wooded, with the distant Downs as an occasional background. 

[Illustration: CHURCH STREET, LITTLEHAMPTON. ]

To explore the valley of the Arun to the north a return must be made toArundel, and either the path through the park or the road to SouthStoke may be taken. The latter runs between park and river and soonreaches the two villages of North and South Stoke, both charming littlehamlets without any communication by road, though a footpath unites thetwo. The first village, South Stoke, has an Early English church withsedilia and other details. North Stoke has a fine Norman door worthy ofinspection. Here a British canoe was discovered in the last century; itmay be seen in the Lewes Museum. Across the river, and only to beapproached by a detour past Amberley Station, is Houghton. From thebridge over the Arun is a very beautiful retrospect of the valleytowards Arundel with the hills falling in graceful curves to the river. The church is Early English of a severe type; here is a fifteenthcentury brass but nothing more of much interest. 

A mile from Houghton Bridge will bring us to Amberley. The village isbuilt on a low hill or cliff immediately above the "wild brooks" orwater meadows of the Arun, and is famous for the picturesque remains ofthe palace of the Bishops of Chichester, which still edge the sandyhill in front of the village. Amberley Castle, as the residence hasalways been called, was built in the reign of Richard II, about 1379, and then consisted of a crenellated building with square corner towersand two round gate towers; the present house, which stands within thewalls, was erected in the early sixteenth century by Bishop Sherbourne. This has probably been the site of an episcopal residence since beforethe Conquest and is in as beautiful a situation as is to be found inSussex, though judging by a local saying quoted by Lower, it would notappear to be as perfect in the winter. An Amberley man when asked fromwhere he comes then answers "Amberley, God help us, " but in thesummer--"Amberley, where _would_ you live?" "Amerley" is immortalized byIzaac Walton for its trout, and by Fuller, who speaks of them as "oneof the four good things of Sussex. "

[Illustration: LITTLEHAMPTON HARBOUR. ]

Amberley Church is a small Norman building with Early Englishadditions; note the brass to John Wantle (1424) and the beautifullyornamented door in the south aisle. There is an hour-glass stand in thepulpit. Notice also the ancient font and the remains of frescoes at theeast end of the nave. 

The road now runs eastwards with the fine escarpment of Rackham Hill tothe right and in about two miles reaches Parham Park, the seat of LordZouche. A short distance further east is Storrington, which we haveseen on our way to Worthing. Delightful walks may be taken across thepark, which is freely open to the pedestrian. This stretch of sandy andpicturesque wild land is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful domainsin the south. Its fir-trees are characteristic of the sandstoneformation which here succeeds the chalk. Visitors should make their wayto the lake where the scene, with the Downs as a background, is one ofextreme beauty. The Heronry here is famous; the birds were originallybrought from Wales to Penshurst, from which locality they migrated toAngmering and then to Parham. 

Lady Dorothy Nevill, in her interesting "Leaves, " refers to Parham as afavourite resort of smugglers. A former Lady de la Zouche, while alittle girl, was made to open a gate for the passage of a longprocession of pack-horses laden with kegs. 

Parham House is a fine Elizabethan manor, although partly spoilt bysome modern additions; built by Sir Thomas Palmer about 1520 it passedto the present family in 1597. The house is famous for the magnificentcollection of works of art, early printed books and ancient illuminatedMS. ; permission to inspect these may be obtained by written applicationwhen the family are not in residence and for purposes of research thisimportant collection is always available. Some time since the mostvaluable items were removed to the British Museum for safety. The housecontains a priest's hole, the entrance to which is from a window seatin the long gallery; one of the Babington conspirators--CharlesPaget--was hidden here. South of the house is Parham Church, possessingone of the three leaden fonts of Sussex. 

[Illustration: AMBERLEY CASTLE. ]

It is now proposed to visit Pulborough and the valley of the Rother. Though rather far afield from Seaward Sussex and the chalk lands, thisdistrict comes naturally within the Down country, but must have achapter to itself. From Parham we may either go direct to Pulborough bythe highroad or, more profitably, by Greatham to Coldwaltham on theRoman Stane Street, the great highway from Chichester to London; herewe turn north east and in a mile (just past the railway) note thescanty ruins of Hardham Priory on the right; another mile and, crossingthe old Arun bridge, we are in Pulborough. 

[Illustration: STOPHAM BRIDGE. ]

CHAPTER VII

THE VALLEY OF THE ROTHER

Pulborough on Stane Street was once a Roman station. Relics of theoccupation are constantly turning up in the neighbourhood. Near thechurch is a mound, on which stood the "castellum. " A glance at the mapwill show the commanding position the station held over the meeting ofthe Arun and Rother. There are traces of a Roman villa at Borough Hillnorth-east of the village. 

The fine church is mostly Perpendicular, though there are Early Englishportions. Note the archaic Norman font and several interesting brasses, especially that of Thomas Harlyng, Canon of Chichester and rector herein 1420; also the restored sedilia and beautiful modern reredos. 

Not far from the church are the remains of the ancient "Old Place" oncebelonging to the Apsleys; the neighbouring barn is even older than thehouse; "New Place, " a little farther north, is another picturesquehouse with a fine hall. 

Pulborough is, with Amberley, a Mecca for weekend anglers; it has afamous inn, the "Swan, " and is a good halting place before proceedingwestwards, in which direction our road now runs. A mile out of the townwe take final leave of the Arun at Stopham Bridge, a fine medievalstructure of many arches. The Rother joins the larger river just belowthe bridge and between the two streams may be seen Stopham House, thehome of the Bartelotts, seneschals of the Earls of Arundel; theirmonuments and brasses for several centuries are in the church, anancient building among trees some distance from the bridge. 

We now approach Fittleworth, another favourite place for anglers, whoserendezvous must be looked for nearly a mile away near the bridge andstation. The Early English church, unrestored and interesting, has inthe vestry a curious stone coffin lid with a Greek cross upon it. Thefamous "Swan" Inn is a well-known feature of the little town and agreat resort for artists, who find endless subjects in the beautifuldistrict we are now traversing. 

Egdean has a church dating from the early seventeenth century. Aboutfifty or more years ago it was "restored" in a way which even amongrestorers must be unique, "Early English" details being imposed uponthe original work. Byworth is picturesque, as Miss Vigers sketch willshow; but, apart from its situation, it calls for no other comment. 

The scenery around Petworth is characteristic of the Lower Greensandcountry and the picturesque wooded outcrop north-east of Byworth isperhaps as beautiful as any other part of this distinctive belt. In nopart of this miniature range, about three miles long, is the altitudeover 450 feet, but the charm of the woodland dells and meanderingtracks which cross and traverse the heights between the "Fox" on thenorth-west and the Arun at Hardswood Green, is quite as great as inlocalities of more strongly marked features and greater renown. 

[Illustration: BYWORTH. ]

The road trends north-west by Egdean and Byworth to Petworth. Petworthtown consists of a number of old-world streets extremely crooked, narrow, and picturesque. Seen from any near point the grouping of roofsis as artistically good as any in Sussex. Petworth Church has beenpractically rebuilt. The north chantry contains the tombs of some ofthe Percy family, including that of the ninth Earl, who was imprisonedin the Tower on suspicion of being concerned in the Gunpowder Plot. Here is also the monument to Lord Egremont (1840), a fine seatedfigure. Notice several interesting brasses and a sixteenth century tombof the Dawtreys. Near the church is an old house belonging to thisfamily. One of the rectors of Petworth was Francis Cheynell, theantagonist of Chillingworth. Just below the church is the SomersetHospital, eighteenth century almshouses founded by a Duke of Somerset. In North Street is Thompson's Hospital, another picturesque group. Inthe centre of the town stands the Market House built by the Earl ofEgremont. In its front is a bust of "William the Deliverer. "

[Illustration: PETWORTH CHURCH. ]

Petworth is another instance of feudal foundation. The manor, atpresent owned by Lord Leconfield, was for centuries in the possessionof the Percy family. The house is said to have the finest privatecollection of pictures in the kingdom, most of which are due to thecollecting zeal of the third Earl of Egremont; they are usually shownon Tuesdays and Thursdays, and visitors are handed a list of thepaintings by the guides. The hurried round of the pictures takes aboutan hour. A wide range of schools are represented, but the mostinteresting is perhaps the splendid show of Turners. 

[Illustration: PETWORTH HOUSE. ]

The present mansion is one of the ugliest in the county and replaced in1730 a beautiful medieval pile; the latter had been the scene of somehistoric visits, notably that of Edward VI, and in 1703 Charles III ofSpain, who was met by Prince Consort George of Denmark. The PrinceRegent with the Allied Rulers visited the Earl of Egremont in 1814. Three interesting relics shown are a piece of needlework made by LadyJane Grey, the sword of Hotspur used at the battle of Shrewsbury, andan illuminated Chaucer MS. The chapel is the only portion of the oldbuilding remaining. 

Petworth Park is quite free and open to the pedestrian. The entrance isin the Tillington road. Although of an entirely different characterfrom the scenery we have already passed through, partaking more of thenature of an East Midland demesne, especially in the lower, or southend, the magnificent stretches of sward interspersed with noble groupsof native trees will amply repay the visit. For those who have time toextend the ramble to the Prospect Tower in the northern portion of thepark there is a magnificent view in store, especially south and west. Herds of deer roam the glades and there are two fine sheets of water. 

[Illustration: SADDLER'S ROW, PETWORTH. ]

The author of _Rural Rides_ thus describes Petworth: "The park is veryfine and consists of a parcel of those hills and dells which natureformed here when she was in one of her most sportive moods. I havenever seen the earth flung about in such a wild way as round aboutHindhead and Blackdown, and this park forms a part of this ground. Froman elevated part of it, and, indeed, from each of many parts of it, yousee all around the country to the distance of many miles. From thesouth-east to the north-west the hills are so lofty and so near thatthey cut the view rather short; but for the rest of the circle you cansee to a very great distance. It is, upon the whole, a most magnificentseat, and the Jews will not be able to get it from the _present_ owner, though if he live many years they will give even him a _twist_. "

The road now goes directly west and in a mile reaches Tillington, whichhas a Transitional church modernized and practically rebuilt by theEarl of Egremont; here are several interesting tombs and brasses. Adivergence two miles further will take us downhill across the Rother toSelham (with a station close to the village). The Norman and EarlyEnglish church has a chancel arch with finely carved and ornamentedcapitals. Proceeding westwards between high banks of red sandstone ourroad soon approaches Cowdray Park, across which it runs without hedgeor fence. 

[Illustration: COWDRAY. ]

The park is a beautiful pleasaunce for the inhabitants of Midhurst;thickly carpeted with bracken and heather and broken by manypicturesque knolls and hollows. The famous burned and ruined mansionlies on the west, close to the town and river. This beautiful old housewas destroyed in 1793 through the carelessness of some workmen employedin repairing the woodwork of some of the upper rooms. Within a month ofthe calamity the last of the Montagues, a young man of 22, was drownedwhile shooting the falls of the Rhine at Schaffhausen. These tragichappenings were supposed to fulfil a curse of the last monk of Battlepronounced against Sir Anthony Browne when he took possession of theAbbey. "Thy line shall end by fire and water and utterly perish. "

The following is a contemporary account of the tragedy: "Lord Montaguewas engaged to the eldest daughter of Mr. Coutts (the present Countessof Guildford) and, with a view to his marriage on his return toEngland, the mansion house had been for several months undergoing acomplete repair and fitting up. The whole was completed on the daypreceding the night on which it was consumed, and the steward had beenemployed during the afternoon in writing the noble owner an account ofits completion. This letter reached his hands. On the following day thesteward wrote another letter announcing its destruction: but in hishurry of spirits, he directed it to Lausanne instead of Lucerne, bywhich accident it was two days longer in its passage to his lordship'splace of abode than it otherwise would have been. Had it not been forthat fatal delay, in all human probability this noble family would nothave had to deplore the double misfortune by which its name and honourshave become extinguished; for the letter arrived at his lordship'slodging on the morning of his death, about an hour after he had leftthem, and, as nearly as can be computed at the very moment in which hewas overwhelmed by the torrent of the Rhine. "

[Illustration: THE GRANARY, COWDRAY. ]

The turreted entrance gateway is less ruinous than the remainder of thebuildings and, with the banqueting hall, is as fine a specimen of earlysixteenth-century architecture as will be found in England. Notice thevaulted entrance to the Hall. On the north side, looking towards theGuard House is the State Bedchamber, wherein Queen Elizabeth slept in1591. There are several contemporary accounts of the statelymerrymakings which took place during the visit, including the "hunting"scene in which buck deer were guided past Gloriana's bower, from whichshe made dead shots at them, reminding one of the "bulls-eyes" withwhich a later Queen opened the national shooting competition for herworshipping subjects. 

On St. Ann's Hill near the town may be traced the outlines of thestronghold erected by the de Bohuns; the town and surrounding countryremained in their hands until Sir David Owen, uncle of Henry VII, married the last of the line. Sir David sold the estate to the Earl ofSouthampton, whose son left it to his half brother Sir Anthony Browne, Standard Bearer of England; his son became the first Viscount Montague. 

The estate is now held by Lord Cowdray, who has a modern mansion, builtin a flamboyant Elizabethan style, near-by. 

Midhurst is a pleasant old place with some good ancient houses here andthere. Those in the centre which form the subject of Miss Vigers'sketch, are being demolished as this is written; their disappearancewill be appreciated by motorists in a hurry but by no one else. ThePerpendicular church has been largely rebuilt during the last centuryand the Montague Chantry lacks its tomb, which has been removed toEasebourne. Richard Cobden was educated in the Grammar School (foundedin 1572). During the last few years Midhurst has become to some extenta resort for Londoners who appreciate a quiet country town amidbeautiful surroundings which may be explored easily. The walks, notonly to the Downs on the south but northwards to the lovely and remotehills which culminate in Blackdown, are among the best in West Sussex. South, west, and east the town is well served by the Brighton andSouth-Western Railways, a single line in each direction. 

[Illustration: MARKET SQUARE, MIDHURST. ]

The road to Henley is one of the loneliest as it is one of theloveliest in south-west Sussex. The writer has tramped the long milesto Henley (uphill all the way) without meeting a single pedestrian. Even the advent of the great Sanatorium on the southern slopes ofBexley Hill does not seem to have made any difference. Possiblyvisitors use the public motor which runs between Midhurst andHaslemere. By so doing they miss one of the finest woodland walks inthe south, indescribably beautiful in the scarlet and gold of lateautumn. 

The traveller in Downland is advised for once to turn his back on thehills and walk as far as the summit of the Haslemere road where the newroute turns sharp round to the left and hugs the escarpment of BexleyHill. In front will be seen an overgrown track, the old highway, plunging down the face of the hill. A few feet down this causeway, paved with large slabs of stone, brings us to a surprising hamletclinging to the hillside and, with its "Duke of Cumberland" Inn, looking across the wide Fernhurst vale to where Blackdown lords it onthe other side. 

[Illustration: MIDHURST CHURCH. ]

At Easebourne, about a mile north-east of Midhurst, is a BenedictinePriory used, until quite lately, as a farmhouse. It is close to thechurch, which, with the buildings of the nunnery, form three sides of ahollow square. The restoration has been carried out with taste and careand the whole is worth seeing. The nuns of Easebourne would seem tohave been "difficult females, " for a Bishop of Chichester in 1441 wasobliged to call the Prioress to order for wearing sumptuous clotheswith fur trimmings and for using too many horses when travelling, thepenance being a restriction to four. The nuns were spoken of by acontemporary writer as "wild females of high family put at Easebourneto keep them quiet. "

The church, besides the tomb of the first Viscount Montague, removedfrom Midhurst, contains a figure of Sir David Owen (1540); also aTransitional font. 

CHAPTER VIII

GOODWOOD AND BOGNOR

We now leave the Rother, turn south by the Chichester road and passingover Cocking causeway reach, in three miles, that little village at thefoot of the pass through the Downs to Singleton, or better still, bytaking a rather longer route through West Lavington we may see thechurch in which Manning preached his last sermon as a member of theAnglican communion. The church and accompanying buildings date from1850 and were designed by Butterfield; they are a good example ofnineteenth-century Gothic and are placed in a fine situation. In thechurchyard, which is particularly well arranged, lies Richard Cobdennot far from the farmhouse in which he was born. Dunford House is notfar away; this was presented to Cobden by the Anti-Corn-Law League, andhere the last years of his life were spent. 

Cocking once had a cell belonging to the Abbey of Seez in Normandy butof this nothing remains. This beautifully situated little place has aprimitive Norman church with a fine canopied tomb and an old paintingof Angel and shepherds. We are now at the foot of Charlton Forestcovering the slopes of the Downs which stretch eastwards to DunctonBeacon; and along the edge of this escarpment it is proposed to travel. This is one of the loneliest and most beautiful sections of the range. 

"A curious phenomenon is observable in this neighbourhood. From theleafy recesses of the layers of beech on the escarpment of the Downs, there rises in unsettled weather a mist which rolls among the treeslike the smoke out of a chimney. This exhalation is called'Foxes-brewings' whatever that may mean, and if it tends westwardstowards Cocking, rain follows speedily. " (Lower. )

The hamlet of Heyshott need not tempt us from the hill, thoughGraffham, one of the loveliest villages in Downland, might well bevisited. Where at last it is necessary to drop toward the PetworthChichester road a divergence may be made to East Lavington with itsassociations and memories of Samuel Wilberforce, who is buried here andin whose memory a memorial brass may be seen in the church; note alsothe Bishop's pastoral staff fixed to the wall near the altar. There arestill "oldest inhabitants" of this peaceful place who remember thecelebrated Victorian, whose rather unkind sobriquet was really but atribute to his genial kindliness of disposition. Here he married in1828 the local heiress, Miss Emily Sergent, and here Mrs. Wilberforcewas buried in 1841. It is said that at Oxford, or wherever the Bishopwas resident, there hung in his bedroom a picture of Lavingtonchurchyard "that I may ever see my own resting place. "

Directly south of Lavington rises the _summit_ of the Downs--DunctonBeacon (837 feet), like many other "highest tops" a greatdisappointment after visiting some of the lesser heights, for theBeacon, which is named "Littleton Down" on the Ordnance map, is not onthe edge of the range but stands back among encircling lesser heightsand is itself partly covered with trees which to a great extent cut offthe view. Barlavington Down, about half the height of Duncton, and FarmHill face east and both command fine views in this direction. Thelatter is above Bignor, to which village we now descend. This is aplace beloved of archaeologists, for here is the site of the famousRoman villa. Bignor church is remarkable for the chancel arch whichmost authorities admit to be a genuine Roman work. Note also the longlancet windows in the chancel and the magnificent yews in thechurchyard. Enquiry must be made in the village for the farm at whichthe keys of the villa enclosure are kept. (Notice the beautiful oldhouse, timbered and with a projecting upper story, near the laneleading to the villa. ) Authorities are at variance as to the actualhistory of the remains which were discovered in 1811. The conjecturethat this was the fortified station on Stane street (which may be seendescending the hills south-west), at the tenth milestone, "Ad Decimum, "seems lately to be discredited, and the supposition gains ground thatthe villa was simply the country palace of a great Roman, or possibly acivilized British prince. However that may be, the discoveries revealedone of the most important and interesting remains of the Romanoccupation in Britain, and cover an area of no less than 600 feet inlength by 350 feet in breadth. The principal pavement may be that ofthe Banqueting hall, in the centre of which is a stone cistern, probably a fountain. The hypercaust below has caused the floor to giveway in several places. The pavement of a smaller room is perfect andshows a finely executed design; another is decorated with cupidsfighting. The details of the building, too numerous to be mentionedhere, deserve careful attention even by the uninitiated and prove moreforcibly than history-books the magnificence of the civilization whichonce was, before Sussex became an entity, and which the first Sussexmen so wofully destroyed. 

The old Roman way could be followed directly across the hills for fourmiles until the high road is joined near Halnaker Hill, where we shallpresently arrive from Goodwood, but a longer route must be taken toexplore the lovely and retired part of the Downs which lies betweenBignor and Singleton. A path between Farm Hill and Barton Down leads toUp Waltham where is a little Early English church with the rare featureof a circular apse. Just south of the village an exquisite combe opensout to the south-west and is traversed by a rough and stony hill roadleading to East Dean; this claims to be the _real_ East Dean whereAlfred met Asser, but its beautiful situation will be its chiefrecommendation to the traveller. Another mile brings us to the hamletof Charlton from which the extensive forest to the north takes itsname. A short distance further and the Midhurst-Chichester road isjoined at Singleton, which village, very pleasantly situated, has aPerpendicular church with a Norman tower, so ancient that someauthorities name it Saxon; it is at the latest very primitive Norman. Notice the quaint wooden gallery and the stairs to the rood loft, andalso a stoup in good preservation. The village is in a most beautifulsituation, surrounded by groups of low wooded hills. There is a stationhere on the Midhurst railway. 

The high road now winds through West Dean to Mid-Lavant and Chichester. Both villages have "restored" churches. The first named contains anotable monument--the Lewknor. Near by is the beautiful West Dean Park. Mid-Lavant church is Early English but boasts a Norman window. The nameof this village perpetuates a phenomenon which is becoming more rareeach year. At one time erratic streams would make their appearance inthe chalk combes in the head of the valley and combining, cause seriousfloods or "lavants. " For some unknown reason the flow of water isgradually becoming smaller and of late years it has been quiteinsignificant. 

[Illustration: EAST LAVANT. ]

To resume the route a return must be made to Singleton and the pathtaken which leads over the Goodwood hills past the Race Course toHalnaker. The whole of this beautiful stretch of Downland is open tothe stranger; the best views are undoubtedly from the Race Course, which dates from 1802. This is the most fashionable of allrace-meetings and the course is in the most beautiful situation. To thewest of the course, on an isolated eminence, sometimes called "Roche'sHill" and sometimes "The Beacon" is an ancient camp with double vallumand fosse enclosing over five acres. On the slope due south of Roche'sHill are some caves supposed to have been prehistoric dwelling-places. A mile to the south is Goodwood House (Duke of Richmond), on certaindays and during certain seasons open to the public. The house, so faras its exterior is concerned, is exceedingly ugly, but contains amagnificent collection of paintings, chiefly portraits, the most famousof which are by Lawrence, Gainsborough, Romney and Vandyke, the lastnamed being represented, among other works, by the well-known paintingof Charles I with his queen and children. 

The most striking view in the neighbourhood of the house is from"Carney's Seat" above the pheasantry, a magnificent prospect of thecoast extending for many miles in each direction. There are grandgroups of cedars here and throughout the park; these add materially tothe foreground of the prospect. The timber generally is very fine, asis almost always the case in the enclosed parklands of West Sussex. InHigh Wood is a temple which contained until recently an inscribed slabdiscovered in Chichester when the foundations of the Council chamber, erected in 1731, were being excavated. This stone, of the greatestinterest to antiquaries, has been returned to the town and will benoticed when we arrive there. 

The ruins of Halnaker are on the south-east of the park. The house wasbuilt in the reign of Henry VIII by Sir Thomas West, Lord De la Warr. Before being allowed to fall into ruin the best of the fittings wereremoved to the "Chantry" in Chichester. 

At the distance of a mile south of Halnaker, Stane Street is reached ata point about four miles from Chichester. There are, however, stillsome interesting places to be seen before, for almost the last time, weturn west. These include Boxgrove, which must on no account be missed. 

Eartham is a beautifully situated village about two miles directly eastof Halnaker. It is chiefly of interest for its associations with thepoet Hayley, who lived at Eartham House, now the residence of Sir P. Milbanke. The house became for a time the rendezvous of manycelebrities, including Cowper, Flaxman, Blake and Romney. A very fineFlaxman monument in memory of Hayley's son may be seen in the church;notice also the memorial of William Huskisson the statesman, who livednear here and who was afterwards killed at the opening of the Liverpooland Manchester Railway. The church has a Norman arch in the chancel, much admired for its graceful proportions and details. 

Even more beautiful a village is Slindon, about two miles farther eastand about three miles from Arundel. Its perfect situation is enhancedby the picturesque clumps of beech trees on the sides of the hills thatencircle it. In the restored church, which was built at variousperiods, is the effigy of a knight in wood. Note the curious shornpillars in the nave. Here is an old Elizabethan hall, and the park, with its magnificent beech woods, is very fine. Slindon is becoming afavourite resort for those who desire a quiet holiday in delightfulrural surroundings. 

Two miles south of Slindon lies Walberton. The church walls have Romanbricks worked into Saxon masonry. The upper part of the nave is of theusual heavy Norman type. Eastergate, the next village on the main roadto Bognor, has an untouched Saxon chancel, with a good deal of Romanmasonry mixed with later material built into the walls. Theseinteresting little villages may be easily reached from Bognor. 

The last years of the eighteenth century were prolific in the birth ofsouth-coast watering places or in the transformation of decayed portsor remote seaside hamlets into fashionable bathing places. Bognor is acase in point and comes within the latter category. A successful hatterof Southwark named Hotham, having "made his pile" built himself a housenear the little manor hamlet of Bognor, which boasted a single inn butno church. The example of Brighton and the nearer neighbour Worthingbeing constantly before the then member of Parliament and one-timebusiness man, the possibilities of the land he had acquired, with itsfine fringe of firm sand, soon made themselves apparent, and theCrescent, Hothampton Place and several other terraces in what is nowthe centre of modern Bognor quickly appeared. A determined attempt tochange the name to Hothampton failed, and as soon as the speculatordied, his gamble a personal failure, the town reverted to the originalSaxon Bognor (Bucganora). 

The young town had the usual royal send-off; the Princess Charlottestayed here for a short time and was followed in due course by thelittle princess who was one day to become so famous a Sovereign. 

It will be seen that Bognor has nothing to interest the visitor whorequires something besides a rather homely home from home with goodair, bright sunshine and almost the nearest stretch of good sand toLondon, which delights the shoals of juveniles who give to the frontits air of busy animation. The famous Bognor rocks provide anadditional attraction; the sea at low tide retires for a considerabledistance and exposes a line of rocks which indicate the general trendof the ancient coast. Here treasures of the sea may be found inprofusion and variety. During spring and leap tides the waves, backedby a strong wind, may cause great excitement by dashing across thefront and invading the back streets; until the present wall was builtthis was of frequent occurrence. Bognor has a very mild wintertemperature and runs Worthing very close for sunshine. 

The old parish church is at South Bersted. It is of Norman origin withsome remains of this period and possibly of Saxon times; the mainportion is, however, Early English. Note the stone slabs outside theporch; these were brought from Bosham by a former incumbent. There is asixteenth-century fresco on one of the nave pillars depicting St. Thomas Aquidas disputing with the doctors. In the churchyard areseveral interesting graves and a very ancient yew reputed to be over800 years old. 

Felpham is now the eastern suburb of Bognor, and is linked to the townby a small bungalow colony. Here Hayley came after selling Eartham, butthe place is now more famous for its associations with the poet'sfriend Blake, who lived for three years in the small thatched cottagewhich still stands at the seaward end of the village. Hayley was buriedin the churchyard, which also contains the tomb of Dean Jackson, oncetutor to George IV. The church is a mixture of styles, one row ofpillars being Early English the other Transitional. The much quotedepitaph on a blacksmith written by Hayley runs as follows:--

 "My sledge and hammer lie reclin'd; My bellows, too, have lost their wind; My fire's extinct, my forge decay'd, And in the dust my vice is laid; My coal is spent, my iron gone, The nails are driven, my work is done. "

Blake's associations with the village came to a sudden end inconsequence of a stupid and unwarranted prosecution for treason, theoutcome of a struggle with a drunken soldier. The mystic poet-artistgained some of his most characteristic inspirations while staying here, and it was in the garden of his cottage that he saw a "fairy'sfuneral, " the description of which has been often quoted; it isdifficult to judge how much of his visions were, to himself, poeticfancy or actual fact. 

[Illustration: FELPHAM. ]

We now resume our journey towards Chichester at Walberton, north ofwhich the high road runs west, with little of interest until a turningon the right brings us to the finest ecclesiastical building in thecounty excepting the Cathedral. 

The Priory Church of St. Mary and St. Blaise _Bosgrave_ was founded inthe reign of Henry I by Robert de Haia of Halnaker. Being a Benedictinechurch, the nave, now in ruins, formed the parochial section. Thechoir, transepts and tower, which remain, belonged to the monks, andthis portion, with the exception of the Norman tower, forms one of themost beautiful examples of Early English in the kingdom and dates fromabout 1200. The fine Purbeck marble columns are much admired, as arealso the graceful clerestory and vaulting. The galleries of thetransepts have ornamented oak fronts, and were used by the lay portionof the ancient congregation. There is a frescoed ceiling belonging tothe sixteenth century. Notice the Renaissance tomb of Lord De la Warr(1532) on the south side of the chancel with its curious carvings andin the south transept those of Countess Phillippa of Arundel (1428) andher second husband, Adam de Poynings; also several others, some ofwhich are without inscriptions, but possibly including those of thedaughters of that Countess of Arundel who was once the first Henry'squeen. The ruins of the priory may be traced and several of thebeautiful Norman arches belonging to the cloisters still remain. 

[Illustration: BOXGROVE PRIORY CHURCH. ]

Tangmere has a Norman and Early English church with a wooden tower. Thevillage is on the south side of the main road but need not detain us. West Hampnett, nearer Chichester, is of more interest; here Saxon workin Roman materials may be seen; notice the fine tomb of RichardSackville and the representation of the Trinity between the kneelingfigures of Richard and his wife. On the left of the road will be seenan old Tudor house which has been converted into a workhouse. The roadnow enters the suburbs of Chichester. 

[Illustration: SKETCH PLAN OF THE CITY OF CHICHESTER. ]

CHAPTER IX

CHICHESTER

The Brito-Roman city of Regnum has left its mark on modern Chichesterin the regularity of the streets, which follow the lines of the ancientthoroughfares. The actual beginnings of the town may antedate theRomans, but of this we know nothing. It was to the British chief Cogi, whose name was Romanized into Cogidubnus, that the foundation ofChichester was probably due; this Briton was a chief of the nativetribe of the Regni who inhabited the Down country and the adjacentseaboard. Instead of opposing the conquerors this astute statesmanwelcomed and allied himself to them and in return received the uniquehonour, for a native, of the title "Legate of the Emperor. "

It is probable that the city was built on the fork of two importantexisting roads, Stane Street--the new stone causeway from London to theharbours on the coast between modern Bosham and Portsmouth--and theadapted and straightened ancient trackway running parallel to the seaand serving the settlements and ports east and west of the junction. Atthat time small ships were able to approach within a short distance ofthe meeting place and here the new town would naturally arise. 

Many remains of the Roman period have from time to time been excavated;a pavement was found in 1866 below the retro-choir of the cathedral andsome ancient graves in St. Andrew's churchyard were found to have thecoffins resting on a tessellated pavement. Old buildings in variousparts of the town, notably St. Olave's church, have much Romanbrickwork, and the usual treasure of denarii and broken pottery isfound whenever an exceptional turning over of the foundations of thetown takes place. 

But the most remarkable of all these earlier relics is the so called"Pudens Stone" to which reference has been made in speaking of GoodwoodPark. This slab was discovered while digging the foundations of theCouncil Chamber and after being kept at Goodwood for many years hasbeen returned to the Council House in North Street, where it may now beseen. The stone is Purbeck marble and bears the following inscription:--

 (N)eptuni et Minervae templum (pr)o salute d(omus) divinae (Ex) auctoritat(e Tib) Claud. (Co)gidubni r. Leg. Aug. In Brit. (Colle)gium fabror. Et qui in eo (A sacris) sunt d. S. D. Donati aream (Pud)enti Pudentini fil. 

(The conjectural restorations are given in parentheses. )

(_Translation_. ) "The temple of Neptune and Minerva, erected for thehealth and preservation of the Imperial family by the authority of theEmperor Tiberias Claudius and of Cogidubnus, the great king of theBritons. The company of Artificers, with others, who were ambitious ofsupplying materials, defrayed the expense. Pudens, son of Pudentinus, gave the ground. " (Hare. )

The great interest of the inscription is in that part which refers toPudens; a controversy raged for a long time during the middle of thelast century around the question of the identity of this individual, the results of which seem to favour the connexion between Chichesterand the Pudens of St. Paul's second Epistle to Timothy. 

The town seems to have been of little importance in South Saxon times, although the modern name dates from that period--"Cissa's Ceaster. "Cissa was one of the sons of Ella who landed on the Selsey peninsula. During the Conqueror's reign Chichester regained some of its formerdignity when the seat of the Sussex see was removed hither from Selsey. At the same time the town was presented to Roger Montgomery, Earl ofAlencon, together with most of South-west Sussex. The Earl built acastle, but nothing of this remains, though the mound in the PrioryPark is said to be the site. 

The troops of the Parliament--led by Sir William Waller, besiegedChichester in 1642; after ten days the city fell and much ill work, especially in the cathedral, followed. Since then its history has beenuneventful. 

Some days may be spent in this pleasant town without exhausting itsinterest and charm and the cathedral cannot be seen in one visitwithout fatigue. As a centre for the exploration of West SussexChichester is much better than one of the smaller towns. (I am not nowadvising that adventurous traveller who, fearing nothing, will trusthimself to a remote village hostelry among the Downs. ) The South CoastRailway runs in three directions and all high roads converge on thecity. 

[Illustration: CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL. ]

Chichester Cathedral is the second on the site, and much of thisbuilding has been added to and altered at various dates. The originalcathedral is supposed to have been for a time the adapted church of St. Peter's monastery which stood on or near the south-west corner of thecity cross-roads. Bishop Ralph's building, erected in 1107, wasdestroyed by fire in 1114. The same bishop started to build the olderportions of the church which we now see. 

The most striking object in the exterior view is the modern spire, built by Scott to replace the tower which fell in 1861 while repairs tothe piers were in progress. The summit is exactly equidistant from thewest porch and the end of the Lady Chapel. The most effective, if notthe most picturesque view, is from the north, where the sturdycampanile makes a good foil to the graceful spire. Until the enormousbulk of the new Liverpool Cathedral rose above the great city in thenorth, Chichester was the only English cathedral visible from the sea. 

[Illustration: SKETCH PLAN OF CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL. ]

The nave should be entered from the west porch, a much admired specimenof Early English. We are at once aware of the fine effects of light andshade produced by the four aisles. The Cathedral is one of the widestin England (though those usually quoted as excelling it--York Minsterand St. Paul's, are actually excelled themselves by Manchester, whichalso has four aisles). The nave and the inner aisles are Norman, theouter being Geometrical; these were added to make room for the variouschapels and shrines which were found necessary as the development ofthe church progressed. The base of the south-west tower is possibly ofan earlier date than the remainder of the nave and the suggestion hasbeen put forward that it forms part of the original monastery church ofSt. Peter; the style of it is very rude and archaic. 

Proceeding by the left-hand or north aisle we see first, close to thenorth door, the chapel of the Baptist, which contains an unknown tomband an ancient chest reputed to be over a thousand years old and tohave been brought from Selsey. Following come the Collins tomb and theArundel chantry containing the altar-tomb of Richard Fitz-Alan and hiscountess. At the end of this aisle is an unknown female effigyconjectured to be Maud of Arundel (1270). Some good modern stainedglass will have been noticed in the nave. The pulpit, a memorial toDean Hook, was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. The south aisle of thenave has the tomb of Bishop Arundel (1478), Bishop Durnford, and AgnesCromwell and a brass to William Bradbridge three times mayor ofChichester (1592). 

In a spirit of ruthless improvement the beautiful old stone screenbetween nave and choir was removed in 1859, and replaced by the presentrood-screen in memory of Archdeacon Walker. The finely carved throneand stalls in the choir are also modern but are in excellent taste andkeeping with the solemn Norman stone which surrounds them. The eastwindow was placed in 1844, and it is no worse than other examples ofthis period. 

The north transept was for many years used as the parish church of St. Peter. Note the pictures by Bernhardi of the English Bishops; thoseafter Elizabeth were destroyed when the tower fell. On the west are thetombs of three bishops, Grove (1695), King (1669) and Carleton (1705). King was the defender of Chichester during Waller's attack and thelatter described him as a "pragmatical malignant. " The cathedrallibrary is in this transept, entered from the north choir aisle. Itcontains several treasures, notably the service book of Hermann, Archbishop of Cologne, once the property of Cranmer and bearing hisautograph. From this book the Reformer adapted many phrases for theBook of Common Prayer. There are several interesting relics from thestone coffins discovered under the choir in 1829, including a papalabsolution cross, an abraxas ring and a twelfth-century silver chaliceand paten. These are displayed in a case by the wall. In the northchoir aisle is a beautiful altar cloth in a glass case. We now pass thefine canopied tomb of Bishop Moleynes (1449). In the Early Englishchapel at the end, dedicated to St. Panthelon, is the modern tomb ofBishop Otter (1840). Before entering this chapel note the stone builtinto the wall and known as "Maudes Heart. " The screens separating theaisles from the presbytery are made of native Sussex iron. 

We now return and cross to the south transept, on the north side ofwhich is the tomb once supposed to be the shrine of St. Richard de laWych, Bishop (1253) but now definitely accepted as that of BishopStratford (1362). This tomb, with several others, was barbarously"restored" in the last century; near it may be seen the modern brass inmemory of Dean Burgon (1888). The pictures on the west wall are byBernhardi and represent Ceadwalla giving Selsey to St. Wilfrid and theconfirmation made by Henry VIII to Bishop Sherborne. Part of thetransept is used as a consistory court. The sacristy is on the westside and on the east is St. Catherine's Chapel. In the wall of theaisle, proceeding east, note two slabs which are said to have beenbrought from Selsey Cathedral. The subjects are the Raising of Lazarusand the Saviour meeting Martha and Mary. Note between them the tomb ofBishop Sherborne (1536); near by is a memorial of Dean Hook (1875) alsothe coffin slabs of Bishop Neville (1224) and Bersted (1262). 

[Illustration: CHICHESTER PALACE AND CATHEDRAL. ]

We now enter the Transitional Retro-choir; here is the altar tomb ofBishop Story (1503) who built Chichester Market Cross, and of BishopDay (1556). The columns of Purbeck marble which grace this part of thecathedral are of great beauty. The screens of native iron have alreadybeen noticed, they are of simple but effective design. 

We pass the terminal chapel of the south aisle, dedicated to St. MaryMagdalene and restored in memory of Dean Cross, and enter the Chapel ofOur Lady, noting (left) the tombs of Bishops Hilary and Ralph, and(right) Bishop Seffrid II, the builder of the Early English portions ofthe Cathedial. This beautiful chapel was finished in the earlyfourteenth century and in the eighteenth was considered unworthy ofrepair and handed over to the Duke of Richmond, whose private propertyit for a long time became. The floor was raised to allow of a burialvault being constructed below, and the upper portion became thelibrary. 

The restoration was resolved upon in 1870 as a memorial to BishopGilbert, and the then Duke being in sympathy with the revived canons ofgood taste no opposition was encountered. It may be of interest toquote an anonymous correspondent in the _Gentleman's Magazine_ (1829, part II) which shows how the leaven was at work even then. 

"Some ten years since a Goth, by some untoward chain of circumstances, possessed sufficient influence with his brethren in the Chapter toinduce that body to whitewash the church, and by way of ornament, andwith a view to compensate for the loss of the original paintings on thegroining of the choir destroyed by the whitewash, the said gentlemanhad the archivolt mouldings and all the lines of the building whichwere in relief, tastefully coloured in yellow ochre. The name of theperpetrator of this outrage on good taste and good feeling it isunnecessary to add, as he will never plan or design any furtherembellishment to the cathedral, but if any of his coadjutors in thedaubing and smearing line have survived him, and still possessinfluence, I tremble for the effects of the present repair. 

"The curious chantry of St. Richard, an object of veneration amongCatholics even to our own days, and the elegant stone screen of theroodloft, have been literally plastered with whitewash, the richsculptured bosses being converted into apparently unshapely lumps ofchalk, and the flat spaces within the heads of the Norman arches of thenave, which are sculptured with scales and flowers, are almost reducedto a plane surface.... The removal of this rubbish would be a work oftime; it should be gradually and effectually performed arch by arch, orits removal may carry away with it many of the sculptures it mayconceal. This will certainly be the case if any London architect, witha contractor at his heels, sets about a thorough repair to be completedin a given time.... 

"The more ancient injuries which the appearance of the cathedral hadsustained were, in the first instance, occasioned by the erection of abreastwork in front of the triforium, which concealed the bases andhalf the shafts of the columns; this might now be easily removed as theobject of its erection, to protect from accident the spectators of theancient processions, has ceased to exist. Since the Reformation a greatportion of the nave has been fitted up with pews, the congregationadjourning from the choir to the nave to hear the sermon. I need notpoint out the injury the nave sustains in appearance from this causeand many points of perspective, highly picturesque, which would arisefrom the singular duplication of the aisles of this church are entirelylost through the existence of the sermon place. "

On the south side of the nave is the entrance to the irregularly builtcloisters; here are several monuments and a good view of theinteresting details of the exterior of the cathedral. The Bishop'sPalace is at the west end; it has an Early English chapel in which isan interesting fresco of the Virgin and Child. At the south-east angleof the cloister is the Chantry of St. Faith dating from the earlyfourteenth century. 

[Illustration: BELL TOWER, CHICHESTER. ]

The Bell Tower, which is an unique feature of the Cathedral, dates fromthe late fifteenth century; it was built to relieve the central towerof the main building from the weight of the eight bells, most of themancient, with quaintly worded and spelt inscriptions. The Arundelscreen has been placed within the tower, but special permission must beobtained to see this. 

The old documents in the Cathedral muniment room are quaint reading, especially in these post-war days; here are a few items taken at randomfrom an old book of accounts:--

 Payd Thomas the broderer for his labors in amendyng of dyverse cooppes vestments and other ornaments of the church workynge thereabouts by the space of IIII wyks after Chrystmas VI s

 For hys comones so longe IIII s

 Payd unto Wolsey the masson for amendynge of the tumbe in our Lady Chapell that was broken uppe when the Commissionars were here from the Councell to serch the same XV d

 (This was possibly the shrine of St. Richard. )

 Payd to Mother Lee for apparellinge of XV mens albes XIIII d

 unto hyr for a dosen of childrens albes IIII d

 unto hyr for the makinge of a towell I d

 Payd unto Thomas Nowye for pollynge and shavinge of the chorusters crounes for VI quarters ending at our Ladye in Lente VIII s

In 1553 Lambart Barnard the painter received an annual payment of£3 6s. 8d. For his works in the church "in arte suae facultate suapictoria" (_sic_). 

This Barnard was probably a relative of Bernhardi. 

The surroundings of the Cathedral on the south side are very pleasantand the second visit should be made by way of the Canon Lane Gate inSouth Street. On the right is the Vicar's Close and, farther on, theDeanery (1725). The passage called St. Richard's Walk gives aparticularly beautiful view of the Cathedral. 

[Illustration: CHICHESTER CROSS. ]

Chichester Cross is the next object of general interest. It was builtby Bishop Story in 1500 and received rough treatment from Waller's men. On the east side is a bronze bust of Charles I. The clock was presentedby Dame Elizabeth Farringdon in 1724 as "an hourly memento of hergoodwill to the city"; it has not, however, added to the beauty of thecross. The central column is surrounded by a stone seat which bearswitness to the generations who have used it as a resting place. Thestone lantern which crowns the whole dates from the eighteenth century. 

We may now proceed up North Street, passing on the right St. Olave'sChurch. A quantity of Roman materials have been found in the walls, andsome authorities declare the south door to be actual Roman work; it isundoubtedly the oldest building in the town. The Council House is atthe corner of Lion Street; here may be seen the Pudens Stone alreadydescribed. 

At the end of Lion Street stands St. Mary's Hospital. This wasoriginally a convent founded in 1158; for some unknown reason the nunswere evicted in the following century, since then it has been analmshouse, probably the oldest foundation of its kind in the county. Itsupports eight poor persons who live in tiny two-roomed dwellings roundthe sides of the great hall. At the end of this is the Decorated chapelseparated from the remainder of the building by an open screen. Themain portion of the building is Early English and a great deal oftimber has been used in the construction. Visitors should enter withoutwaiting for permission, and one of the courteous ladies will, ifrequired, show the chapel. The whole makes a quaint and pleasingpicture, quite unique in its way. 

[Illustration: ST. MARY'S HOSPITAL, CHICHESTER. ]

We may continue along St. Martin's Lane northwards to the Guildhall, nolonger used as such. This was originally the chapel of the Grey Friars. It has a very fine Early English window; the sedilia should also beseen. The building was for many years used as a court of justice; itsfuture is still uncertain. 

The city walls are not far distant; though not continuous, considerableportions have been laid out as public promenades. They are for the mostpart constructed of flints and undoubtedly have a Roman base. Somelines of fortifications about a mile north of the walls, locally calledthe "Broyles, " are supposed to be Roman works, possibly in connexionwith the military station or garrison. 

Returning to the city's centre at the Cross, St. Andrew's Church inEast Street may be visited; this has a Roman pavement at a depth ofabout five feet. The poet Collins is buried within the church. Note theslab on the outside wall which up to the present has kept its secretfrom archaeologists. 

A very interesting museum in South Street contains a quantity of localfinds. Particular note should be made of the pottery removed from aBritish tomb at Walberton; also of the curious old lantern called the"moon, " formerly carried in municipal processions after dark. 

The "Pallant, " a corruption of Palatinate, was once an ecclesiasticalpeculiar; it consists of four streets between South and East Streets. In West Street is the Prebendal school at which Selden commenced hiseducation. This street has a very fine specimen of seventeenth-centuryarchitecture, built by Wren and dated 1696. There are several good oldresidences of about this date in South Street. 

CHAPTER X

SELSEY AND BOSHAM

Chichester Harbour ends just west of the town and close to thePortsmouth high road at New Fishbourne, a pleasant little place with arestored Early English church. This may be said to be the north-westernlimit of the Selsey Peninsula, one of the most primitive corners ofsouthern England. The few visitors who make use of the light railway toSelsey have little or no knowledge of the lonely hamlets scattered overthe wind-swept flats, in which many old customs linger and where theSaxon dialect may be heard in all its purity. 

[Illustration: THE LOWLANDS. ]

Selsey--"Seals' Island"[2]--was the scene of the first conversions toChristianity in Sussex and, for this reason, a semi-sacred land to theearly mediaeval church in the south. 

 [2] Two seals were seen on the west of the Selsea Peninsula in December, 1919, and one of them was shot for preservation in a local museum. 

St. Wilfrid's first visit was unpremeditated; he was shipwrecked whilereturning from a visit to France, where his consecration had takenplace in A. D. 665. His reception was so hostile that after gettingsafely away he decided to return at some future date and convert theBarbarians to more gentle ways. Not for fifteen years did hisopportunity come. Then, despoiled of his northern bishopric, forWilfrid was a turbulent Churchman, he came prepared, we must suppose, for the reception usually meted out to the saints in those days. Theheathen Saxons, however, were now in a different mood, for "no rain hadfallen in that province for three years before his arrival, wherefore adreadful famine ensued which cruelly destroyed the people.... It isreported that very often, forty or fifty men, being spent with want, would go together to some precipice, or to the sea-shore, and therehand in hand perish by the fall, or be swallowed-up by the waves. "(Ven. Bede. )

The efforts of the missionary saint met with success. The unprecedentedsufferings of the people had been ignored by their tribal deities andthe offer of a new faith was eagerly accepted. The King had beenconverted, possibly in secret, before this. The baptism of the leadingchieftain was followed by the breaking of the terrible drought. Thefruits of the woods came to feed the bodies of those who had acceptedthe food of the spirit, and "the King being made pious and gentle byGod, granted him (Wilfrid) his own town in which he lived, for abishop's see, with lands of 87 houses in Selesie afterwards addedthereto, to the holy new evangelist and baptist who opened to him andall his people the way of everlasting life, and there he founded amonastery for a resting-place for his assembled brothers, which even tothis day belongs to his servants. " (Eddi's _Life of Bishop Wilfrid_. )

The monastery site was probably the same as that of the cathedral, nowbeneath the waves, about a mile east of the present Selsey church. 

[Illustration: FISHBOURNE MANOR. ]

To explore the peninsula a start should be made at Appledram, a smallvillage close to Chichester Channel and about two miles south-east ofthe city; here is a fine Early English church, on the south of which isan ancient farm-house, originally a tower built by one Renan in thereign of Edward II. The King would not grant permission for itscrenellation, Renan thereupon disposed of most of the materials andthey were used to build the campanile at Chichester. Footpaths leadacross the meadows to Donnington where is another Early English churchof but little interest. A mile away on the banks of the disusedChichester and Arundel canal is the strangely named "Manhood End. " Thisis a corruption of Mainwood, and refers to the great forest which oncestretched from the Downs to the sea. A rather dull walk westwards pastBirdham to West Itchenor, a remote little place on the shores of thecreek, is amply repaid by the fine views northwards up the Boshamchannel, with the far-flung line of the Downs beyond. (A ferry can betaken from here which would make a short cut to Bosham or Fishbournepracticable. ) Returning past the church with its interesting font, afootpath is taken to West Wittering and its very fine Transitionalchurch, the most interesting ecclesiastical building in the SelseyPeninsula; note the two rude sculptures of the Annunciation andResurrection at the ends of a canopied altar tomb; and a coffin lidwith pastoral staff possibly of a "boy-bishop. " We are now on thatportion of the coast which approximates most nearly to the originalspot, now beneath the waves, where the first colonists of Sussexlanded. 

[Illustration: FISHBOURNE CHURCH. ]

At East Wittering a short distance away is an Early English church witha Norman door. This is not far from Bracklesham Bay, an adventurousexcursion for Selsey Beach visitors who come here treasure hunting forfossils, of which large numbers repay careful search. To reach Selsey"town" devious ways must be taken past Earnley, which is surely thequietest and most remote hamlet in the kingdom, on the road fromnowhere to nowhere; or we may, if impervious to fatigue, follow thebeach all the way to Selsey Bill. The settlement is easily approachedfrom Chichester and the South Coast line by the Selsey Tramway (8miles). The charm of the place, which consists in a great measure inits air of remoteness, is likely to be soon destroyed. Pleasantbungalows, of a more solid type than usual, are springing up everywherebetween the railway and the Bill, though here we may still stand on theblunt-nosed end of Sussex and watch the sun rise or set in the sea. 

It would be interesting to know if the quality of the buildings erectedwill enable them to last until the sea eventually disposes of Selsey. The encroachment of the waves, especially on the eastern side of theBill, has been more rapid than on any other part of the coast, exceptperhaps certain parts of Norfolk. The sea immediately east of Selsey iscalled the "Park"; this was actually a deer-park no longer ago thanTudor times and in Camden's day the foundations of Selsey Cathedralcould be seen at low water. 

The Transitional church was rebuilt in 1867 from the materials of theolder church, two miles away at Church Norton, where the chancel stillremains among its old mossy tombs. Each stone and beam was placed inthe same position on the new site. The old chancel at Church Nortoncontains a battered tomb to John Lewes and his wife (1537). Near-by isa mediaeval rectory, once a priory, dating from the fourteenth century, very quaint and picturesque. 

We now follow the line of the light railway. At Sidlesham, the firsthalt, is a restored Early English church containing a fine old chest. Note the curious epitaphs within and also on the gravestones in thechurchyard, and, not least, the queer names that accompanythem:--"Glue, " "Gravy, " "Earwicker" etc. 

From the station a footpath may be taken to Pagham and what is left ofthe harbour of that name. Here there was until late years a curiousphenomenon known as the "Hushing Well. " A rush of air would burstthrough the water in the harbour at the time of the incoming tide. The"well" was destroyed by draining operations which also caused thedisappearance of large numbers of rare water fowl and aquatic insects, though the naturalist will still be repaid by a visit to this lonelycoast and its immediate surroundings. A short time ago the sea made anentrance, but without reconstructing the old conditions. It is nolonger practicable to walk along the coast to Bognor. 

Pagham Church is an interesting Early English building dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury and erected by a successor to St. Augustine'sChair. Note a slab in the chancel with Lombardic lettering and the oldglass in the east window. The scanty remains of the episcopal palacemay be seen southeast of the church. 

From Hunston Halt a walk of about a mile westwards leads to anotherremote and straggling village, North Mundham. In the restored church isa Saxon font and certain curious sculptures may be seen outside thedoor. From here it is only two miles to Chichester, passingRumboldswyke church, which has interesting features, including Romanbrickwork in the chancel arch. 

The Portsmouth road, in three miles from Chichester, reaches Walton, where a turning to the left leads in another mile to Bosham, certainlythe most interesting relic of the past in West Sussex. Bosham (pron. _Bozam_) to-day seems existent solely in the interest of artists; it iscertainly the most besketched place on the South Coast and is rarely, in fine weather, without one or more easels on its quiet quay. The bestloved hours of the day for the painting or sketching fraternity--thoseof low tide, when every boat lies at a different angle--will be themost unpopular for the ordinary visitor, who will be eager for thefriendly smoke-scented parlour of the inn as a refuge from the flavourof the malodorous flats; at low tide Bosham is certainly picturesque, at the full she is comely and clean. 

[Illustration: BOSHAM. ]

The harbour, from British, through Roman, Saxon and Norman times to thelater middle ages, was one of the principal entrances to and exits fromthis county. It was on several occasions harried by the Danes and, asdepicted on the Bayeux Tapestry, Harold left here on that visit whichwas to have such dire consequences for himself and his line, and suchuntold results on the history of the nation-to-be. The great Emperor ofthe North--Knut--was a frequent visitor to the creek in hisdragon-prowed barque. His palace, also the home of Earl Godwin andHarold, is supposed to have been on the northeast of the church, wherea moat is still in existence. It is here that the incident recorded inevery school reader, the historic rebuke to sycophantic courtiers, issaid to have taken place. 

The church is of venerable antiquity. The tower has certain indicationswhich point to its being Saxon work. The chancel arch may be stillolder in its base, and some authorities suggest that the lower portionsare actually the remains of the basilica erected in the time ofConstantine, on the site of which the church now stands. The eastportions of the chancel are Early English and once formed the chapel ofa college founded by William Warlewaste, Bishop of Exeter (1120). Notethe figure in the north wall, said to be that of the daughter of Knutwho died here while on a visit to Earl Godwin. The effigy is, however, of much later date. The fine arcaded font is placed upon high stepsagainst a column. At the east end of the south aisle the floor israised over an Early English crypt or charnel-house, the entrance towhich is close to a canopied tomb. This tomb is that of Herbert ofBosham, secretary to Becket, who wrote the _Book of Becket'sMartyrdom_. 

[Illustration: BOSHAM MILL. ]

The church was restored in 1865 and during this work the mostinteresting discovery was made of the traditional burial place ofKnut's daughter. How often has a local tradition, accepted as fact bythe peasant, but looked upon as an idle tale by his educated superior, proved to have more than a grain of truth in it and sometimes to be avery circumstantial record of actualities, and fully supported byantiquarian research. The exact position of the grave is shown by thefigure of a Danish raven painted upon a tile, and a stone slab with aninscription upon it placed by the children of Bosham in 1906. 

One of the ancient bells was stolen by Danish pirates; the story goesthat when half way to the open sea a storm arose which swamped the boatin consequence of the great weight of the metal on board. On highfestivals of the Church, a Bosham man will tell you, its sound can beheard from the waves mingling with the chimes of the modern bells ofthe tower. As a matter of fact the echo of the peal, thrown back by thewoods of West Itchenor, is, in certain favourable conditions of theatmosphere, distinctly like a second chime, and might deceive astranger into thinking that another church lay across the water. 

[Illustration: BOSHAM. THE STRAND. ]

A most interesting fact recorded by the Venerable Bede is that whenWilfrid of York came here in 681 he found a religious house ruled by amonk named Dicul. It was this monk who had converted King Ethelwalchbefore Wilfrid arrived. The existence of this tiny community in themidst of hostile tribes, over two hundred years after the extinction ofChristianity in the south, is a matter of high romance in the historyof the faith in Britain. 

There are two other isolated bits of Sussex on the south of the highroad to Emsworth, the first containing the small hamlet of Chidham witha beautiful little Early English church; the next is occupied by WestThorney. Here is another church of the same period with a Transitionaltower and a Norman font. This peninsula was until quite recently anisland and the home of innumerable sea fowl. 

Emsworth is almost entirely in Hampshire and therefore outside ourlimits, but we can well make it the starting place for the last cornerof seaward Sussex unexplored. 

Westbourne, one mile north of Emsworth, has a fine Transitional churchwith a large number of monuments and an imposing avenue of yews. AtRacton to the north-east is the well-known seamark tower used bymariners in the navigation of the channels of Chichester Harbour. Thechurch has a monument to an ancestor of that Colonel Gunter who tookpart in the escape of Charles II. Near by is Lordington House, erectedby the father of Cardinal Pole and said to be haunted by the ghost ofthat Countess of Salisbury who, when an old woman upwards of seventy, was beheaded by the order of Henry VIII, and caused the headman muchtrouble by refusing to place her head upon the block; an illustrationby Cruickshank depicts the executioner chasing the Countess round theplatform. 

[Illustration: THE WESTERN DOWNS. ]

Several roads lead north through beautiful country, covered by lonelyand unfrequented woodlands, to the Mardens. West Marden is about fivemiles from Emsworth and close to the Hampshire border; all the fourvillages which bear this name are among the most primitive in southernEngland. At North Marden is a plain unrestored Norman church, the onlyone in the immediate vicinity which is worth a visit for its own sake. Compton, a mile beyond West Marden, has a Transitional Norman churchpartly rebuilt; this is close to Lady Holt Park, a favourite retreat ofPope; and Up Park, a fine expanse of woodland, where the Carylls oncelived; their estates were forfeited for their championship of theStuarts. The northern end of the park rises to the edge of the Downsclose to Torberry Hill, the last summit in Sussex, though the travellerwho is so inclined may, with much advantage to himself, penetrate intothe lonely recesses of the Hampshire hills, sacred to the shade ofGilbert White, and, still within the probable limits of the _ancient_kingdom of Sussex, finish his travels at Butser Hill and Petersfield. 

Butser Hill is 889 feet above the sea, and therefore higher than anypoint of the range within Sussex. This well-known summit is familiar toall travellers on the Portsmouth road, from which it rises withimposing effect on the west of the pass beyond Petersfield. Here theSouth Downs, so called, may be said to end. The chalk hills arecontinued right across Hampshire, slowly diminishing in height untilthey are lost in the great plateau of Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire. 

[Illustration: HARTING. ]

Between a fold of the hills lies picturesque Harting in a mostdelightful situation; an ideal spot for a restful time away fromtwentieth-century conditions. The tourist, if amenable to the simplelife, might well make a stay of a few days to explore the lovelycountry of which this village forms the centre. The finely placed EarlyEnglish cruciform church has several interesting monuments to membersof former local families, including sixteenth century memorials of theCowper-Coles. Here is buried Lord Grey, who was connected with the RyeHouse Plot. Notice the embroidery in the reredos, an unusual style;also the fine wooden roof and shorn pillars; the latter detract fromthe general effect of the interior and have been noticed in otherDownland churches on our route. Quite close to the church are the oldvillage stocks, undoubtedly placed in this position for the sake ofconvenience, the "court" in more remote districts having been held, informer times, in the church itself. Harting was for a time the home ofAnthony Trollope, and Cardinal Pole was rector here. 

There are few districts in England and certainly none south of theTrent where old customs and queer legends persist with so much vitalityas in these lonely combes and hollows. The effect of being out of theworld is perhaps enhanced in these western Downs by the ring fence ofdark woods through which we have to pass to reach the bare, wind-sweptsolitudes and lonely hamlets within them. The northern escarpment andsouthern flanks of the hills are clothed in vast forests of beech whichadd that grandeur to the great ramparts of chalk which the easternranges lack. Seen through the ever-shifting sea mists which creep upfrom the channel these heights take on an appearance of greateraltitude and an added glamour of mystery. 

South-east of Harting is the isolated Beacon Hill, once a semaphorestation between Portsmouth and London; but instead of taking at once tothe heights, the pedestrian should first visit Elsted up on its ownlittle hill, and Treyford a mile farther; both churches are ruined anddeserted. A new church with a spire that forms a landmark for manymiles, stands midway between the two and serves both. Elsted has an innfrom the doorway of which the traveller has a superb view of the Downs. From Treyford a bridle-path leads directly south to the summit ofTreyford Hill, where are five barrows called "The Devil's Jumps. " Fromhere the track running along the top of the Down will bring us in twomiles to the bold spurs of Linch Down (818 feet), the finest view-pointon the western Downs, the views over the Weald being magnificent in alldirections. A track will have been noticed on the west side of thesummit, and a return should be made to this, and then by strikingsouthwards through the Westdean woods we eventually reach Chilgrove. Wemight then climb the opposite spur and keep southwards until the ridgerises to the escarpment of Bow Hill, but the finest walk of all and themost fitting termination to our tour will be to keep to the rough roadwhich runs down the valley south-east to Welldown Farm. Here a roadturns right and in a little over a mile drops to the romanticallybeautiful Kingley Vale. 

This vale is a cup-shaped hollow in the south side of Bow Hill; itssteep sides are clothed in a sombre garb of yews and at the farther endof the combe is a solemn grove of these venerable trees amid whichbroad noon becomes a mystic twilight filled with the spirit of awe; afitting place for the burial of warrior kings with wild, barbaric rite. Tradition has it that many Danish chieftains were here defeated andslain and that here beneath the yews they rest. But who shall say whatother strange scenes these lonely deeps in the bosom of the hills havewitnessed before Saxon or Dane replaced the Celt; who in turn, for allhis fierce and arrogant ways, went, by night, in fear and trembling ofthose spiteful little men he himself displaced, and whose vengeance orpitiful gratitude is perpetuated in the first romances of ourchildhood. Though their living homes were in the primeval forests ofthe Britain that was, their last long resting places were under theopen skies on the summits of the wind-swept Downs. Many of the smoothgreen barrows that enclosed their remains have been ruthlessly rifledand desecrated by greed or curiosity. It is to be hoped that thevotaries of this form of archaeological research have now discovered allthat they desired to know, and that our far-off ancestors will be leftto the peace we do not grudge our more immediate forefathers. 

Appendix

THE SUSSEX DOWNS FROM END TO END

The following summary will suggest to the stranger how his time, iflimited, could be so disposed as to take in the whole range with thosevillages which are essentially Downland settlements and those which lieimmediately at the foot of the escarpment. For this purpose the orderof the book is reversed and the tourist should start at the western orHampshire end and finish his walk at Beachy Head. The enjoyment of thistour will of course be greatly enhanced if half the distance istraversed each day, thus doubling the time. 

[Illustration: COWDRAY COTTAGE. ]

1ST DAY. Midhurst (Angel Inn) or Cocking Station via Lynch Down, Beacon Hill, toHarting, 9 miles (Ship Inn). 

2ND DAY. Harting to Bow Hill and Kingley Bottom via North and East Marden, 8miles; on to West Dean, Singleton and Cocking (Inn), 17 miles; orMidhurst, 20 miles. 

3RD DAY. Cocking by Heyshott Down and Duncton Beacon to East Dean, 7 miles(Inn); on by Burton Down and Bignor Hill (Stane Street) to Bignor, 13miles (Inn); on to Amberley, 19 miles (Inn). 

4TH DAY. Amberley to Rackham and Kithurst Hills; down to Storrington (WhiteHorse Inn), 5 miles. By the main road to Washington (Inn) and Wiston. Ascend Chanctonbury Ring, 10 miles; on to Cissbury Ring and over Downsat Steyning, 16 miles (White Horse). 

5TH DAY. Steyning via Bramber and Upper Beeding to Trueleigh Hill and Devil'sDyke, 6 miles (Inn); down to Poynings, round Newtimber Hill to Pyecombeand Wolstonbury, thence by hill road to Ditchling Beacon, 12 miles; onby edge of Downs to Mount Harry and down to Lewes, 18 miles (WhiteHart, Crown, etc. )

6TH DAY. Lewes over Cliffe Hill and Mount Caburn to Glynde and West Firle, 4miles (Inn); over Firle Beacon and along edge of Downs to Alfriston, 9miles (Star Inn); by Lullington to Windover Hill ("Long Man ofWilmington") down to Jevington, 12 miles (Inn); up to Willingdon Hilland thence by eastern edge of Downs all the way to Beachy Head, 17miles. Eastbourne, 20 miles. 

[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF THE ROADS FROM LONDON TO THE DOWNS. ]

Appendix II

LONDON TO THE SOUTH DOWNS--THE WEALD

The writer of the preceding chapters has often been tempted to trespassoutside the limits imposed upon him, and penetrate the woody fastnessesof the Weald. In this separate section a short description will begiven of some of the most characteristic scenes and interesting townsand villages between London and the coast. 

A certain proportion of the pleasure of a holiday is, or should be, obtained on the journey toward the goal. This is, of course, much morethe case where road rather than rail is taken, and most of the routesto the south run through a lovely and varied countryside which willrepay a leisurely mode of progression. To the writer there is no way ofseeing England equal to doing that on foot; however, it would beunreasonable to expect every one to adopt this mode of travelling evenif they were able, and these notes can easily be followed by motoristor cyclist without undue loss of time. 

LONDON TO LEWES BY WESTERHAM AND MARESFIELD

This road keeps within Kent until the boundary of Sussex is reached, and runs via Catford Bromley and Keston, climbing gradually toWesterham Hill, after which there is a steep and dangerous descent tothe small town of Westerham (23 miles) pleasantly situated between theNorth Downs and the sandy hills of the Surrey Weald. It is famous asthe birthplace of Wolfe, whose statue adorns the green, around which isgrouped the quietly dignified assemblage of inns, shops and houses thatare typical of this part of Kent. The large and finely situated churchalso has a memorial to the local hero, who was born in the vicaragehere and buried at Greenwich. 

The road continues through pleasant country over Crockham Hill toEdenbridge (28 m. ) on the small river Eden. Although the immediatesurroundings are dull and featureless this is a good centre from whichto explore the district eastwards to Hever, Penshurst, and Tonbridge. One mile out of the town we bear left and, in another three, cross theKent Water into Sussex. In 7-1/2 miles the road passes over the Medwayto Hartfield (33-1/2 m. ) on the edge of Ashdown Forest. The EarlyEnglish church has a lych-gate dating from 1520. Inside may be seenthree piscinas, one in an uncommon position near the south door. 

 [A long mile east is Withyam, with a Perpendicular church famous for its monuments of the Dorset family. Only a gateway remains of the ancient Buckhurst mansion, the greater part of the materials going to the erection of Sackville college at East Grinstead. ]

From Hartfield we climb steadily towards the centre of the Forest withoccasional wide views between the close woods which line the northernslopes. 

 [Before reaching Camp Hill and near the summit, a path leads left to Crowborough, which of late years has become suburban and a second Haslemere. The Beacon commands wide views, but the immediate surroundings have been spoilt. ]

We now drop towards Maresfield with grand forward views over the Wealdto the South Downs. 

Maresfield (41 m. ) has a small Decorated church with a Norman window inthe nave. Note the ancient woodwork and restored oak porch, also twostoups, one within and the other outside the church. This was once animportant "Black Country" centre. Local names, such as "The Forge"perpetuate the memory of this strange period in the history of Sussex, which was at its busiest about 1680, the last furnace being quenched in1828. 

"It is a strange thing to remember, when one is standing on the colddesolate hills about Crowborough Beacon, or in the glens of the TilgateForest--now the very picture of quiet, and rest, and loneliness--thatthis same Sussex was once the iron mart of England. Once, spotted overthese hills and through these forests, there were forges that roaredfrom morning till night, chimneys that sent up their smoke and theirpoisonous vapour from one year's end to another; cannon were cast ... Where now there is no harsher voice than the tap of the woodpecker.... One cannot fancy the forests of St. Leonards and Ashdown, theWolverhampton of their age. But so it was; and not the least remarkablething ... Is the absence of traditions about the life and customs ofthe manufacturers so employed. " (Lower. )

 [From Maresfield a round of about thirty miles could be made through the beautiful East Sussex Weald, rejoining the main road at Uckfield. In two miles is Buxted, which has an interesting Early English church standing high amidst woods. In the Decorated chancel is the brass of Britellus Avenel (1408) and J. De Lewes (1330), by whom the church was founded. Note the old muniment chest in the north aisle and the mortuary chapel of the Earls of Liverpool south of the chancel. Not far from the church is "Hog House, " note the hog carved over the door and dated 1581. The Hogge family, ironmasters, once lived here. In 1543 was cast the first iron cannon made in this country. 

 "Master Huggett and his man John, They did cast the first cannon. "

 Not far away is the one time cell of a hermit, carved out of the rock, and named "The Vineyard. " The road now winds through a remote country, which once resounded with the clangour of the forge, to Hadlow Down and Butcher's Cross and in seven miles reaches Mayfield. The village street is according to Coventry Patmore the "sweetest in Sussex. " The half-timbered "Middle House" nearly opposite the church is the best example of this style of architecture in the south, it is dated 1575. Lower House was built about 1625. The fine Perpendicular church is on the site of the traditional building erected by St. Dunstan. This was made of wood, and the Saint, finding that the orientation was not quite true, set his shoulder to the wall and pushed it straight! The visitor will note the fine effect of the raised chancel, the roof of which is composed of a one time gallery. Note, among other objects, the old screen and choir stalls; a squint; font dated 1666; iron slabs in the nave to the Sands (1668 and 1708); monument to T. Aynscombe (1620); chandeliers; and curious east window; and, not least, the glorious view from the churchyard. The Palace of the Archbishops is now a convent: it was restored by Pugin after being in a state of ruin for many years. Certain portions may be seen at uncertain times. In the ancient dining-room are preserved the hammer, tongs and anvil of St. Dunstan. The Saint's well is in the garden. It was hereabouts that St. Dunstan had his great tussle with the Devil, holding the fiend by the nose with his tongs; eventually the Evil One wrenched himself free; making an eight mile leap he cooled his nose in a pool of water, giving it for ever "a flavour of warm flat irons" and making the fortune of the future Tunbridge Wells. Mayfield has another claim to a niche in history, not a quaint old tale like the above but a sombre fact:--

 "Next followed four, which suffered at Mayfield, in Sussex, the twenty-fourth of September 1556, of whose names we find two recorded, and the other two we yet know not, and therefore, according to our register, hereunder they be specified, as we find them: John Hart, Thomas Ravendale, a shoemaker and a carrier, which said four being at the place where they should suffer, after they had made their prayers, and were at the stake ready to abide the force of the fire, they constantly and joyfully yielded their lives for the testimony of the glorious Gospel of Jesus Christ. " (Foxe. )

 The scenery hereabouts is distinctly of Devonian character. Rich and varied views reward the leisurely traveller who will make a side excursion to Rotherfield, passing, halfway the conical Argos Hill crowned with a windmill. The village, though not so interesting as Mayfield, is well placed and has a fine Perpendicular church, the spire being a landmark for many miles. Here is an east window by Burne Jones and several other good examples of modern stained glass which make fine splashes of colour in the old building. A quaint saying in reference to the handsome presence of the Rotherfield women is that they have an "extra pair of ribs. "

 The beautiful district between here and Tunbridge Wells deserves a chapter to itself. Frant Wadhurst and Ticehurst belong more naturally to West Kent than East Sussex. These three beautiful villages and the glorious Eridge Park could be combined in this excursion by the traveller who has unlimited time. 

 We may now follow the valley of the Rother through scenery of much quiet beauty to Burwash, 6-1/2 miles from Mayfield. Here is an old church with a (possibly) Saxon tower and an interesting iron slab inscribed "Orate p Annima Johne Colins, " probably the oldest piece of local ironwork in existence. The outline of the village is eminently satisfying to the artist, especially the house called "Rampyndens. " Burwash is connected with the Rev. J. Cocker Egerton, to whom reference has already been made. From the natives of this particular district was gleaned that record of rustic humour which makes the Sussex peasant depicted in his writings so real to those who know him. The village has lately become the home of Rudyard Kipling, who lives at "Batemans, " a beautiful old house in an adjacent valley surrounded by wooded hills. "Puck of Pooks Hill" is said to have been inspired by the locality. Brightling Beacon, three miles farther, commands the finest prospect of the western Weald, the immediate foreground being of great beauty. Brightling church should also be seen. 

 A return could now be made by way of Heathfield, from Brightling, passing Cade Street. Here a monument commemorates the death of Jack Cade, who was shot by an arrow discharged by Alexander Iden, Sheriff of Kent, in 1450. Cade had been hiding at Newick Farm; gaining confidence he came out for a game of bowls and met his end while playing. Heathfield _old_ village and church are off the main road to the left; our route passes the railway station and runs westwards to Cross-in-Hand and Blackboys; this road is a succession of lovely views throughout the seven miles to Framfield, where there is a Tudor church. A short two miles more brings us to our main route at Uckfield. ]

[Illustration: MIDDLE HOUSE, MAYFIELD. ]

Uckfield (43-1/2 m. ) old church was pulled down in the early nineteenthcentury, and its successor is of no interest. An old stone house infront of the "King's Head" was once the village lock-up. A picturesqueoutcrop of the Hastings sandstone around a small lake forms a beautyspot of local fame: it is within the demesne of "The Rocks" on the westof the town. 

 [An alternative route to Lewes could be taken from Uckfield through the best part of the Ouse valley; nearly half-way and on the right is Isfield ("Eyefield"), the church is interesting. ]

The road now bears south-east to High Cross and then by Halland to EastHoathly (48-1/4 m. ). The church here has the Pelham buckle as adripstone. Note the Norman piscina. In five miles the little hamlet ofHorsebridge is reached. We are now in the Cuckmere valley. 

 [One mile short of this a round of four miles could be made via The Dicker to Mickleham Priory and Hailsham. The Priory is now a farmhouse; the position of the chapel is shown by some arches built into the wall. The interior has a fine cowled fireplace and Early English crypt. The gatehouse is the only complete portion of the Priory buildings. Permission must be obtained to view the interior. ]

The Eastbourne road crosses the Cuckmere and turns sharp to the rightbefore reaching the railway. 

Hailsham (55-1/2 m. ). The fine pinnacled tower of the church shows upwell above the roofs of the old market town, which, however, has littleto show the visitor and is not particularly picturesque. The immediatesurroundings of the road are tame until we enter the woodlands, whichsurround the route almost to Polegate (58-1/2 m. ). We now have fineviews of the Downs on our right front though Willingdon to Eastbourne(63 m. ). 

LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES

This route follows the Brighton road through Croydon to Purley (12-1/2m. ). Here we bear south-east and follow the Eastbourne road throughsuburban but pleasant Kenley and Whyteleafe to Caterham (17-1/2 m. ). The North Downs are crossed between Gravelly hill (Water Tower) andMarden Castle, followed by a long descent to Godstone (20 m. ), builtaround a charming green with a fine old inn ("Clayton Arms") on theleft. A lane at the side of the inn leads to the interesting church andalmshouses. The direct road onwards, runs over Tilburstow Hill (500feet), but the better route bears left and passes Godstone station, rejoining the old road at Springfield (23 m. ). 

 [At Blindley Heath a road bears left to Lingfield, a pretty village with an interesting church, once collegiate. Note misererie seats and choir screen (fifteenth century). Tombs of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Lord Cobhams and other interesting tombs and brasses. ]

[Illustration: HIGH STREET, EAST GRINSTEAD. ]

At Fellbridge, just past the Horley road, we enter Sussex and, after ashort rise and fall, arrive at East Grinstead (30 m. ). This is one ofthe pleasantest towns of the Weald, with many old houses here and therein the High Street. The church, though of imposing appearance from adistance, is, on closer acquaintance, disappointing; the fabric datingfrom 1790. Note an iron tomb slab (1570). Not far from the church isthe Jacobean Sackville College. Here the celebrated Father Neale waswarden for twenty-five years. (In barely two miles from the centre ofthe town a lane leads over the railway to the right in 1/3 mile to thepicturesque ruins of Brambletye. )

Forest Row (33 m. ), on the river Medway. The road now climbs steadilybetween woods to Wych Cross (35 m. ). Grand views south and west. Thisis one of the finest passes over the Forest Ridge and the peculiarcharacteristics of the Hastings sands are here seen to the bestadvantage. These high sandy moors, covered with glorious stretches ofbracken and heather, here and there clothed in dense growths of oak andbeech, with occasional distinctive clumps of Scots fir and beneath alla thick tangle of bramble, a perfect sanctuary of wild life, are morereminiscent of Radnor or Galloway than of the south country. 

[Illustration: SACKVILLE COLLEGE. ]

The right-hand road is taken at the fork and there follows a long coastdown to Danehill, where the Lewes road bears left to Sheffield Green(40 m. ). 

 [A road to the left would bring us in 2 miles to Fletching, where the forces of Simon de Montfort started on their march to Mount Harry and subsequent victory of Lewes. The village is the centre of a delightful neighbourhood and is delightful in itself, not only for the charm of its surroundings, but for its quaint and attractive architecture of the humbler sort. The Early English church has been well restored and beautified by the Earl of Sheffield, whose estate lies to the west. Gibbon the historian lies in the Sheffield mausoleum. Note the old glass in the small lancet windows; this was buried in the churchyard during some forgotten trouble and discovered and replaced during the restoration. Several old helmets and gauntlets with the crest of the Nevill's are hung in the north transept. A small brass should be noticed; the inscription refers to a local worthy, P. Devot, who took part in the Cade rebellion. ]

Sheffield Park on the left is full of fine timber; at the end we crossthe Ouse and the railway and keep straight forward to Chailey (43-1/2m. ) with occasional views ahead of the Lewes Downs. Passing Chaileypotteries on the left the road calls for no comment until we passCooksbridge station and draw near the Downs. 

Offham (48 m. ). Lewes (50 m. ). There is a choice of routes to Seaford;that passing Southease (54 m. ) enters Newhaven and crosses the Ousethere. The alternative road crosses the river in Lewes, runs underMount Caburn and going through Beddingham (51-1/4 m. ) bears right. 

South Heighton (55-1/2 m. ). 

Seaford (59 m. ). 

THE BRIGHTON ROAD

This classic fifty-two miles, the scene of many records in coaching, running, cycling and walking, is the shortest way from London to thesea, but not by any means the most interesting either for the lover ofnature or the tourist of an antiquarian turn. Distances are reckonedfrom Westminster Bridge ("Big Ben"). After Kennington comes a two-mileascent from Brixton to Streatham and then a fairly level stretch toCroydon (10 m. ), Whitgift Hospital (1596), Archbishop's Palace, finerebuilt church. We now enter the chalk country and pass throughsuburban Purley to Merstham (18 m. ). 

 [Reigate (2 m. Right). Large Perpendicular church. The town is pleasant and picturesque but rapidly becoming suburban. ]

The road drops between spurs of the North Downs to Redhill (20 m. ); abusy railway junction. Thence over Earlswood Common. 

Horley (24-3/4 m. ). Interesting church; note yews in churchyard. Lowfield Heath. Three miles from Horley we pass into Sussex and shortlyreach Crawley (29-1/4 m. ). Decorated church. Note the quaint lines onone of the roof beams. Mark Lemon lived at Vine Cottage in the village. 

 [The tiny village of Worth, south of the East Grinstead road and nearly 3 miles from Crawley, should be visited for the sake of its unique Saxon church, the only one remaining which is complete in its ground plan. Notice the typical band of stones supported by pillars which runs round the building; also the curious double font; pulpit dated 1577 and ancient lych-gate. On the north side of the church is a "Devil's Door. " The exorcized spirit passed out this way at the sacrament of Baptism. ]

We now enter the forest zone. Note the fine retrospect when approachingPease Pottage (31-1/4 m. ). 

 [On the left is Tilgate Forest, which is continued by Worth Forest, whence many lovely and lonely paths lead to Horstead Keynes and West Hoathly, whose church has a land-mark spire visible for many miles. Underneath the tower will be seen two iron grave slabs. Within the church notice the Geometrical windows and the triple sedilia. The village is picturesque and well placed, and the local "lion"--"Great upon little, " an effect of denudation, is well known. The village is much nearer the Seaford road at Wych Cross, but from the present route we have the advantage of seven miles of woodland otherwise unexplored. 

 On the right from Pease Pottage, in the recesses of St. Leonard's Forest, and two miles from the main route, is Holmbush Beacon Tower. This should be visited for the sake of the magnificent woodland views; in the distance are the south Downs visible from Butser Hill behind Portsmouth to the hills surrounding Lewes. Hindhead, Blackdown, Leith Hill, the North Downs and the Hampshire Heights are all visible on a clear day. 

 We are here in a remote district, the haunt of legend and folk-lore almost unequalled in the south. Here St. Leonard put an end to the career of a fierce and fiery dragon, but not before the saint was grievously wounded, and where his blood fell now grow the lilies of the valley, common here but nowhere else in the neighbourhood. Headless horsemen, who have an unpleasant habit of sharing the benighted traveller's steed; witches and warlocks; white-ladies and were-wolves are in great plenty, and the normal inhabitants of the forest must have a fervent appreciation of the high noon and the hours of daylight. ]

The two miles south of Pease Pottage are the highest on the roadculminating at Handcross, 504 feet (33-1/2 m. ). The road now descendsthe steep and dangerous Handcross Hill. 

 [At the foot of the hill, half mile right, is Slaugham ("Slaffam") with a Decorated church, old font and brasses. ]

Bolney Common (37-1/2 m. ) in lovely surroundings. The church has earlyNorman, or as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The Normansouth door, covered by a wooden porch dating from the eighteenthcentury, should be noticed. 

 [Cuckfield ("Cookfield") 3 miles left, amidst beautiful scenery, with a fine Early English church commanding a glorious view. Note monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield Place is the original of "Rookwood, " but has been "improved" out of its ancient character. The Jacobean gate house still stands unrestored at the end of the avenue. Close by is Leigh Pond, a fine sheet of water. ]

Albourne Green (42 m. ), for Hurstpierpoint (1 m. ), beautiful views ofthe South Downs which we now ascend to Pyecombe (45-1/2 m. ). 

Preston (49-1/2 m. ). 

Brighton (front 51-1/2 m. ). 

THE HORSHAM ROAD

At Kennington Church we leave the Brighton Way and pass Clapham Common, Tooting and Merton to Cheam (11-1/4 m. ) Ewell and Epsom (14-1/2 m. ) TheDowns and Race-course are up to the left. 

Ashtead. 

Leatherhead (18-1/2 m. ). This little town has some picturesque streets, but is rapidly becoming suburban. The Perpendicular church containsinteresting windows. The scenery now greatly improves and becomesbeautiful after passing Mickleham, a pretty village with a Transitionalchurch. 

[Illustration: CAUSEWAY, HORSHAM. ]

Norbury Park, on the right, is one of the most charming places inSurrey. Box Hill (590 feet), which may easily be ascended from thewell-placed Burford Bridge Hotel, is on the left. The road, river andrail run through a deep cleft in the North Downs forming the Molevalley and facing the sandstone hills of the Weald. In the shallowdepression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23-1/4 m. ). The town ispleasant but has nothing of much interest for the visitor. It is forits fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a convenientheadquarters from which to explore the best of Surrey that it will beappreciated. The rebuilt parish church is imposing and stands on thesite of the ancient Roman Stane Street. We leave the town by SouthStreet and proceed to Holmwood, from which Leith Hill may be visited, though there are more direct and much finer routes from Dorking. 

Capel (28-3/4 m. ). We are now in quiet wealden scenery and there isnothing of special interest until we cross the Sussex boundary, abouthalf a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold (31-1/2 m. ). We nowbear left and again 1-1/2 miles farther by Warnham Pond, with memoriesof Shelley. 

Horsham (36 m. ). This prosperous and pleasant county centre makes agood halting place. The Early English and Perpendicular church is wortha visit, although practically rebuilt in the middle of the lastcentury. The fine proportions and spacious and lofty interior will atonce strike the visitor. Notice the altar tomb of Thomas de Braose(1396), Lord Hoo (1455), Eliz. Delves (1645), and a brass of ThomasClerke (1411). Also the ancient font. The old "Causeway, " which leadsto the church from Carfax, as the centre of the town is called, shouldbe more popular with artists than it is. The wonderful colour of someof the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to the local stonewith which the older roofs are covered. It seems a pity from anaesthetic point of view that the quarries are no longer used. The greatweight of the covering had another advantage, it made for sturdybuilding and honest workmanship. Horsham no longer has the artificialimportance of returning members to Parliament (at one time, two; and aslately as 1885 one), but is now merged in the western division ofSussex, of which district it shares with Midhurst the position of chiefagricultural and commercial centre. The town is also becomingresidential as East Grinstead, on the other side of the county, hasalready done. 

[Illustration: POND STREET, PETWORTH. ]

THE SHOREHAM ROAD

The high road from Horsham skirts Dene Park, which is quite open andcommands fine views of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the rightmay be discerned the buildings of Christ's Hospital and SouthwaterStation (38-1/2 m. ). 

Burrell Arms (41-1/2 m. ). A halt must be made to view the scantyremains of Knepp Castle, a one time stronghold of the de Braose family. Close by is a beautiful lake, the largest sheet of water in the southof England. The road now bears south-east. To the right and close tothe Adur is West Grinstead. The church, partly Norman, should be seen. Note the two naves. The old oak seats bear the names of the farms towhose occupants they have from time immemorial belonged. Behind thealtar of the north nave is an aumbry, and in the roof above is a coveronce used for suspending the canopy over the Host. There are severalinteresting monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell chantrywith fine fifteenth century brasses. Note the font, an old stonecoffin, foliated lancets, fragments of old stained glass and someremains of ancient frescoes. The rectory is a good specimen ofElizabethan building. West Grinstead House, once the home of theCarylls, friends of Pope, "This verse to Caryl, Muse, is due, " _Rape ofthe Lock_. The poem is said to have been written under the shade of"Pope's Oak" in the park. 

 [Cowfold, 3 miles east, is chiefly remarkable for the Carthusian Monastery dedicated to St. Hugh. Its spire is a landmark for many miles. This has been the home of exiled French monks since 1877. Visitors are very courteously shown over the greater part of the building, which is of much interest and contains several venerated relics brought from the monastery of the Grand Chartreuse. The magnificent brass to Nelond, Prior of Lewes, in the parish church should also be seen. ]

We now continue south-east and cross the railway to Shoreham. The tallspire seen on the left is St. Hugh's Monastery (above). Partridge Greenstation (44-1/4 m. ), Ashurst (46-1/4 m. ), with an Early English church. At the top of every rise we are rewarded with glorious views of theDowns crowned by Chanctonbury Ring. 

Steyning (49-1/4 m. ). 

Bramber (50-1/4 m. ). 

New Shoreham (54-1/4 m. ). 

[Illustration: STEYNING CHURCH. ]

THE WORTHING ROAD

As above to the Burrell Arms. The route runs south and then south-westto Dial Post (43-1/4 m. ), and so with striking views ahead throughAshington (46-1/4 m. ) to Washington (48-1/4 m. ). 

Findon (51 m. ). 

Broadwater (54-1/4 m. ). 

Worthing (55-1/2 m. ). 

THE ARUNDEL--CHICHESTER ROAD

This route leaves the Horsham road nearly two miles south of thevillage of Kingsfold. 

Warnham (33-1/4 m. ). The district is the scene of Shelley's childhoodand youth. The poet was born at Field Place, about 1-1/2 miles south onthe right of the road. 

Broadbridge Heath (35-1/4 m. ). 

Five Oaks (39 m. ). We now join the Roman "Stane Street" from LondonBridge to Chichester. 

Billingshurst (40-3/4 m. ). Norman and Perpendicular church. Note fineoak panelled ceiling. 

 [Across the Adur valley, 2-1/2 miles west is the interesting church at Wisborough Green. The situation is delightful and the antiquarian interest more than ordinary. Kemble identifies the mound on which the church is built as being the site of a temple dedicated to Woden (Wisc or "Wish"). Restoration brought to light early Norman (perhaps Saxon) remains in this late Norman church. The chancel is Early English. Notice the tower walls inside. There are some ancient frescoes, a stoup, and other interesting details. ]

Adversane (42-3/4 m. ). 

Pulborough (46 m. ). 

Bury (50-3/4 m. ). 

Arundel (55-1/4 m. ). 

_To Chichester_ at 1-3/4 m. Past Bury turn S. W. 

Balls Hut Inn (56-1/2 m. ). 

Chichester (62 m. ). 

THE CHICHESTER ROAD VIA GUILDFORD AND MIDHURST

This route follows the Portsmouth Road from Westminster throughWandsworth and over Putney Heath to Kingston (12 m. ). Here we bear leftpast the King's stone and then by way of the river bank through ThamesDitton to Esher (16 m. ), then by the famous "Ripley Road" over FairmileCommon and through Street Cobham (19-1/2 m. ). 

Ripley (23-3/4 m. ). 

Guildford (29-3/4 m. ). A prosperous and good-looking old town in dangerof becoming smug and suburban; the steep and picturesque High Street, however, keeps its old time amenities. The ruins of the castle keep maybe seen south of the High Street. Abbott's Hospital (1619), theGuildhall with projecting clock (1683); St. Mary's church, Norman andEarly English. Note paintings in north chapel. St. Nicholas' Church hasbeen mostly rebuilt. Our road turns left just beyond the Wey bridge andpasses under the ruins of St. Catherine's Chapel on the left. AtShalford (30-3/4 m. ), bear right to Godalming (34-1/4 m. ) in the centreof a lovely country. Here is a large cruciform church, Norman and EarlyEnglish, with interesting brasses and pulpit. 

[Illustration: NORTH MILL, MIDHURST. ]

Milford (35 m. ). A long rise follows to Brookstreet (39-1/4 m. ) and adangerous drop just beyond. Haslemere (43 m. ). Although the scenery isvery beautiful on all sides of this once remote hamlet, the latenineteenth century saw a colonization of the slopes of Hindhead, withthe attendant outbreak of red brick, which has almost completely spoiltthe neighbourhood. Branch excursions may be made towards the Hampshireborder and to Chiddingfold country. We cross the Sussex boundary onemile south of the town and are immediately in the lonely and verylovely Blackdown country. A climb follows to Kingsley Marsh and a steepdescent to Fernhurst (46-1/4 m. ). 

 [Blackdown, the highest point in Sussex (918 feet) can be easily reached from here, the distance is about two miles in each direction with woodland most of the way. The view from the summit is magnificent in every direction. Aldworth, where Tennyson died, is on a spur of the hill slightly east of north. ]

Henley (48-1/2 m. ). A picturesque hamlet below the road commandingmagnificent views of Blackdown. A steep descent, then a road throughlovely woodlands brings us to Midhurst (51 m. ). 

Cocking (54 m. ). Steep hills. 

West Dean (57-1/2 m. ). 

Chichester (63 m. ). 

RAILWAY ROUTES

LONDON TO EASTBOURNE BY OXTED AND HEATHFIELD

Only slow trains, with possible change of carriage, by this route; theEastbourne expresses run by Three Bridges and Lewes. After Croydon thelong ascent between the northern slopes of the Surrey Downs extends toWoldingham Tunnel. Wide views and retrospect of the Downs. Oxted (20m. ) (church and village right). 

Edenbridge (25 m. ). 

Hever. 

Cowden. The line crosses the Kent water and enters Sussex. Ashurst(Infant Medway right). Eridge (35-1/2 m. ) (a good centre from which toexplore north-east Sussex). Rotherfield. Mayfield (scenery reminiscentof Devon). Hailsham (49-3/4 m. ) for Hurstmonceux. Polegate. Eastbourne(57 m. ). 

LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES

(To Oxted above. ) Lingfield (picturesque village and well-known racingheadquarters. ) West Hoathly (34 m. ). (Ashdown Forest left). HorstedKeynes. Newick. Lewes (50-1/4 m. ). Newhaven (56-1/2 m. ). Seaford (59m. ). 

LONDON TO BRIGHTON BY REDHILL AND THREE BRIDGES

This is the line of the fast expresses, and in the summer one of thebusiest 50 miles of railway in the kingdom. Croydon. Purley. Merstham. Redhill (20-1/2 m. ). Express Trains pass to the left of this station(fine views). Horley. Gatwick (race-course, right). A long climb overthe Forest Ridge followed by a drop to the Ouse viaduct (St. Saviour'sCollege, Ardingley, left). Hayward's Heath (37-3/4 m. ) (a suburbangrowth). Wivelsfield. Burgess Hill (Ditchling Beacon, left front). Hassocks (43-1/2 m. ) (Clayton Tunnel). Preston Park. Brighton (50-1/2m. ). 

LONDON TO SHOREHAM AND WORTHING

Sutton (15 m. ) (an outlier of villadom). Ewell. Epsom (18-1/2 m. ). Ashtead. Leatherhead (22-3/4 m. ). The scenery rapidly improves andbefore reaching Box Hill Station attains much beauty. Dorking (26-3/4m. ). Holmwood (31-3/4 m. ) (Leith Hill, right, conspicuous by itstower). Capel. Horsham (40-1/4 m. ). Christ's Hospital (left). Southwater. West Grinstead (Chanctonbury Ring, right). Henfield (52-3/4m. ). The Adur valley is followed to Steyning and Bramber. New Shoreham(60-1/4 m. ). Worthing (64-3/4 m. ). 

[Illustration: KNOCK HUNDRED ROW, MIDHURST. ]

LONDON TO ARUNDEL AND CHICHESTER

(To Horsham above. ) Billingshurst (46 m. ). Pulborough (junction for analternative route to Chichester via Midhurst). Views (left) of the longescarpment of the Downs. Villages on the Arun (right). Amberley Castle(left) and (exceedingly fine) Arundel Castle (right). Arundel (59-1/4m. ). Ford. Barnham. Chichester (70-1/2 m. ). 

Index

Adeliza, QueenAdurAinsworth, HarrisonAlbourne GreenAlbrin, deAlcistonAldringtonAldworthAlfred the GreatAlfristonAmberleyAnderidaAndredes WealdAngmeringAngmering ParkAnne of ClevesAnne of Cleves' HouseAppledramApsleysArdingleyArgos HillArun, TheArundelArundel ChurchArundel ParkArundel BishopAshdown ForestAtherington

Babington ConspiratorsBailiff's Court HouseBalsdeanBarlavington DownBarrymoreBartelotts, TheBarton DownBeachy HeadBeacon, TheBeacon HillBeckett, Thomas àBeddinghamBeggar's BushBerwickBexley HillBignorBirdhamBirds, Booth Museum ofBillingshurstBirling GapBishopstoneBlackboysBlack CapBlackdownBlack Wm. BlakeBognorBolingbrokeBolney CommonBorough HillBoshamBotolphsBow HillBoxgroveBox HillBracklesham BayBradford, JohnBramberBrambletyeBraose, deBrightlingBrightonBroadbridge HeathBroadwaterBrotherhood HallBrowne, Sir AnthonyBrowning, RobertBuncton ChapelBurrell ArmsBurrel, Sir Wm. BurwashButcher's CrossButser HillBuxtedByworth

Cade, JackCade StreetCampions, TheCapelCariloce, John deCarylls, TheCastle GoringCatt, WilliamChaileyChanctonbury RingCharles IICharles III of SpainCharlotte, PrincessCharltonCharlton ForestCheyney, Sir ThomasChichesterChichester CathedralChidhamChilgroveChiltern HillsChurch NortonChyngtonCissaCissbury HillClaphamClark, Dr. CliffeCliffe HillClympingCobden, RichardCockingCogidubnusCold WalthamComptonCoombeCornwall, Earl ofCowdray ParkCowdray RuinsCowfoldCowperCowper-ColesCrawleyCromwell, ThomasCross in HandCrowboroughCroydonCuckfieldCuckmere HavenCuckmere Valley

Dane HillDannyDe la Warr, LordDevil's DykeDickens, CharlesDicker, TheDiculDitchlingDitchling BeaconDonningtonDorkingDuncton BeaconDunford HouseDurrington Chapel

EarnleyEarthamEasebourneEast BlatchingtonEastbourneEast Dean, (East Sussex)East Dean, (West Sussex)EastergateEast GrinsteadEast HoathlyEast LavingtonEast WitteringEdburtonEdenbridgeEdward IEdward IIIEdward VIEgdeanEgerton, J. CockerEgremont, LordElizabeth, QueenEllaEllman, JohnElstedEmsworthEpsomEridgeEthelwalch, KingEvelyn, John

FalmerFalsely, Sir JohnFarm HillFellbridgeFelphamFernhurstField PlaceFiennes, Roger deFindonFirle BeaconFishbourneFittleworthFitz-AlansFitzherbert, Mrs. Five OaksFlaxmanFletchingFordForest RidgeForest RowFramfieldFristonFulking

Geology of the DownsGeorge IVGlyndeGodalmingGodstoneGodwin, EarlGoldstone, TheGoodwoodGoringGoring, CharlesGoring WoodsGraffhamGreathamGrey, Lady JaneGrey, LordGuildfordGundrada

Hadlow DownHaia, Robert deHailshamHallandHalnakerHampden ParkHandcross HillHardham PrioryHares, TheHaroldHartfieldHartingHaslemereHassocksHayward's HeathHayleyHeathfieldHeeneHenleyHenry IIIHenry VIIIHessel, PhoebeHeyshottHigh CrossHighdown HillHigh WoodHiornes TowerHorsebridgeHorshamHothamHolyoakeHoughtonHoveHunstonHuntingdon, WilliamHurdis, JamesHurstmonceuxHurtspierpointHuskisson, William

Iden, AlexanderIfordIsfield

Jackson, DeanJefferies, RichardJevingtonJohn, KingJohn of GauntJohnson, DoctorJulius Caesar

Kemp TownKeymerKingley ValeKingsfoldKingstonKingston (Surrey)Knut

Lady Holt ParkLamb, CharlesLamb Inn, EastbourneLancing CollegeLeatherheadLeicester, Earl ofLeith HillLeominsterLewesLewes, Battle ofLinch DownLingfieldLitlingtonLittlehamptonLittleton DownLong Man of WilmingtonLordington HouseLouis PhillippeLullingtonLyminster

Magnus MemorialMaison DieuManhood EndMardens, TheMaresfieldMartyrs MemorialMascall, LeonardMatilda, QueenMaud, EmpressMayfieldMedway, RiverMeeching PlaceMicklehamMickleham PrioryMidhurstMid LavantMillburgh HouseMonceaux, Waleran deMontague, LordMontiort, Simon deMontgomery, Roger ofMount CaburnMount HarryMowbray, Thos. 

Naylor, Geo. Neale, FatherNewhavenNewick FarmNewmarket HillNew Place, AngmeringNew Place, PulboroughNewtimber HillNorfolk, Duke ofNorth StokeNorth Mundham

OffhamOld MailingOld PlaceOuseOvingdeanOwen, Sir DavidOxenOxted

PaghamPalmer, Sir EdwardPalmer, Sir ThomasParhamParham ParkParsons Darbys HolePatchingPayne, TomPease PottagePelham, Sir NicholasPell, JohnPetworthPetworth HousePevensey CastlePevensey ChurchPiddinghoePlumptonPole, CardinalPolegatePolingPopePortobelloPortsladePortus AdurniPoyningsPrestonPreston, East and WestPuck Church ParlourPudens StonePulboroughPyecombe

Rackham HillRactonRenanRichard IRichard IIRichard King of the RomansRichmond, Duke ofRingmerRipley RoadRoches HillRodmellRoedean CollegeRoman DitchRoman Villa, BignorRomans, King ofRomneyRother, RiverRotherfieldRottingdeanRumboldswykeRussel, DoctorRustington

Sackville CollegeSalisbury, Countess ofSalvingtonSaxon DownSeafordSeaford HeadSelden, JohnSelhamSelmestonSelseySeven SistersSheepSheffield GreenShelleyShelleys, TheSherbourne, BishopShirley, Sir HughShorehamShoreham OldSidney, Sir PhilipSidleshamSingletonSlaughamSlindonSmugglingSomerset Hospital, PetworthSomptingSouth BerstedSoutheaseSouthey, RobertSouth LancingSouth MailingSouthover HouseSouth StokeSouthwickSpencer, HerbertSt. Andrew's, ChichesterSt. Andrew's, HoveSt. Andrew's MonasterySt. Anne's, LewesSt. CuthmanSt. DunstanSt. John's, LewesSt. John's, sub castroSt. Leonard's ForestSt. Mary's Hospital, ChichesterSt. Michael's, LewesSt. Nicholas, BrightonSt. Olaves, ChichesterSt. Pancras PriorySt. Peter's, BrightonSt. Philip Neri, ArundelSt. Richard of ChichesterSt. Thomas at CliffeSt. WilfridStanmer ParkStane StreetStar Inn, AlfristonStar Inn, LewesStephenSteyningStopham BridgeStopham HouseStorringtonStreetSullingtonSurrey DownsSussex PadSwanboroughSwanbourne LakeSwinburne

TangmereTattersell, Capt. TelscombeThackerayTilburstow HillTilgate ForestTillingtonTorberry HillTreyfordTrueleigh Hill

UckfieldUp ParkUpper BeedingUp Waltham

WalbertonWaller, GeneralWalton, IsaacWannock GlenWarenne, deWarlewaste, BishopWarnhamWarre, de laWartlingWashingtonWest Dean, East SussexWest Dean, West SussexWeald, TheWelldown FarmWellington, Duke ofWestbourneWest Dean, East SussexWest FerringWest FirleWest GrinsteadWesthamWesthampnettWest HoathlyWesterhamWest ItchenorWest LavingtonWestmestonWest, Sir ThomasWest TarringWest ThorneyWest WitteringWheatearsWhite, GilbertWilberforce, SamuelWilberforce, WilliamWilliam IWillingdonWilmingtonWilmot, LordWindmillsWisborough GreenWistonWithyamWlencingWolfeWolstonbury HillWoodard, NicholasWorthWorth ForestWorthingWych Cross

Yapton