Omoo: Adventures in the South Seas

by

Herman Melville

PART I

 CHAPTER I. MY RECEPTION ABOARD CHAPTER II. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP CHAPTER III. FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA CHAPTER IV. A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE CHAPTER V. WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO CHAPTER VI. WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA CHAPTER VII. WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO CHAPTER VIII. THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA CHAPTER IX. WE STEER TO THE WESTWARD--STATE OF AFFAIRS CHAPTER X. A SEA-PARLOUR DESCRIBED, WITH SOME OF ITS TENANTS CHAPTER XI. DOCTOR LONG GHOST A WAG--ONE OF HIS CAPERS CHAPTER XII. DEATH AND BURIAL OF TWO OF THE CREW CHAPTER XIII. OUR DESTINATION CHANGED CHAPTER XIV. ROPE YARN CHAPTER XV. CHIPS AND BUNGS CHAPTER XVI. WE ENCOUNTER A GALE CHAPTER XVII. THE CORAL ISLANDS CHAPTER XVIII. TAHITI CHAPTER XIX. A SURPRISE--MORE ABOUT BEMBO CHAPTER XX. THE ROUND ROBIN--VISITORS FROM SHORE CHAPTER XXI. PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL CHAPTER XXII. THE CONSUL'S DEPARTURE CHAPTER XXIII. THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE CHAPTER XXIV. OUTBREAK OF THE CREW CHAPTER XXV. JERMIN ENCOUNTERS AN OLD SHIPMATE CHAPTER XXVI. WE ENTER THE HARBOUR--JIM THE PILOT CHAPTER XXVII. A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE--WE ARE SENT ABOARD THE FRIGATE CHAPTER XXVIII. RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN CHAPTER XXIX. THE REINE BLANCHE CHAPTER XXX. THEY TAKE US ASHORE--WHAT HAPPENED THERE CHAPTER XXXI. THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE CHAPTER XXXII. PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI CHAPTER XXXIII. WE RECEIVE CALLS AT THE HOTEL DE CALABOOZA CHAPTER XXXIV. LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA CHAPTER XXXV. VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE CHAPTER XXXVI. WE ARE CARRIED BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN CHAPTER XXXVII. THE FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS CHAPTER XXXVIII. LITTLE JULIA SAILS WITHOUT US CHAPTER XXXIX. JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN--FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA

PART II

 CHAPTER XL. WE TAKE UNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS CHAPTER XLI. WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON THE SHIPPING CHAPTER XLII. MOTOO-OTOO A TAHITIAN CASUIST CHAPTER XLIII. ONE IS JUDGED BY THE COMPANY HE KEEPS CHAPTER XLIV. CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR--THE CHURCH OP THE COCOA-NUTS CHAPTER XLV. MISSIONARY'S SERMON; WITH SOME REFLECTIONS CHAPTER XLVI. SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS CHAPTER XLVII. HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI CHAPTER XLVIII. TAHITI AS IT IS CHAPTER XLIX. SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED CHAPTER L. SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST CHAPTER LI. WILSON GIVES US THE CUT--DEPARTURE FOR IMEEO CHAPTER LII. THE VALLEY OF MARTAIR CHAPTER LIII. FARMING IN POLYNESIA CHAPTER LIV. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA CHAPTER LV. A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE CHAPTER LVI. MOSQUITOES CHAPTER LVII. THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS CHAPTER LVIII. THE HUNTING-FEAST; AND A VISIT TO AFREHITOO CHAPTER LIX. THE MURPHIES CHAPTER LX. WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR CHAPTER LXI. PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY CHAPTER LXII. TAMAI CHAPTER LXIII. A DANCE IN THE VALLEY CHAPTER LXIV. MYSTERIOUS CHAPTER LXV. THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT CHAPTER LXVI. HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO CHAPTER LXVII. THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH CHAPTER LXVIII. A DINNER-PARTY IN IMEEO CHAPTER LXIX. THE COCOA-PALM CHAPTER LXX. LIFE AT LOOHOOLOO CHAPTER LXXI. WE START FOR TALOO CHAPTER LXXII. A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND CHAPTER LXXIII. OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE CHAPTER LXXIV. RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT--THE DOCTOR GROWS DEVOUT CHAPTER LXXV. A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT CHAPTER LXXVI. AN ISLAND JILT--WE VISIT THE SHIP CHAPTER LXXVII. A PARTY OF ROVERS--LITTLE LOO AND THE DOCTOR CHAPTER LXXVIII. MRS. BELL CHAPTER LXXIX. TALOO CHAPEL--HOLDING COURT IN POLYNESIA CHAPTER LXXX. QUEEN POMAREE CHAPTER LXXXI. WE VISIT THE COURT CHAPTER LXXXII. WHICH ENDS THE BOOK

PART I

CHAPTER I. 

MY RECEPTION ABOARD

IT WAS the middle of a bright tropical afternoon that we made good ourescape from the bay. The vessel we sought lay with her main-topsailaback about a league from the land, and was the only object thatbroke the broad expanse of the ocean. 

On approaching, she turned out to be a small, slatternly-lookingcraft, her hull and spars a dingy black, rigging all slack andbleached nearly white, and everything denoting an ill state ofaffairs aboard. The four boats hanging from her sides proclaimed hera whaler. Leaning carelessly over the bulwarks were the sailors, wild, haggard-looking fellows in Scotch caps and faded blue frocks;some of them with cheeks of a mottled bronze, to which sickness soonchanges the rich berry-brown of a seaman's complexion in the tropics. 

On the quarter-deck was one whom I took for the chief mate. He wore abroad-brimmed Panama hat, and his spy-glass was levelled as weadvanced. 

When we came alongside, a low cry ran fore and aft the deck, andeverybody gazed at us with inquiring eyes. And well they might. Tosay nothing of the savage boat's crew, panting with excitement, allgesture and vociferation, my own appearance was calculated to excitecuriosity. A robe of the native cloth was thrown over my shoulders, my hair and beard were uncut, and I betrayed other evidences of myrecent adventure. Immediately on gaining the deck, they beset me onall sides with questions, the half of which I could not answer, soincessantly were they put. 

As an instance of the curious coincidences which often befall thesailor, I must here mention that two countenances before me werefamiliar. One was that of an old man-of-war's-man, whose acquaintanceI had made in Rio de Janeiro, at which place touched the ship inwhich I sailed from home. The other was a young man whom, four yearsprevious, I had frequently met in a sailor boarding-house inLiverpool. I remembered parting with him at Prince's Dock Gates, inthe midst of a swarm of police-officers, trackmen, stevedores, beggars, and the like. And here we were again:--years had rolled by, many a league of ocean had been traversed, and we were throwntogether under circumstances which almost made me doubt my ownexistence. 

But a few moments passed ere I was sent for into the cabin by thecaptain. 

He was quite a young man, pale and slender, more like a sicklycounting-house clerk than a bluff sea-captain. Bidding me be seated, he ordered the steward to hand me a glass of Pisco. In the state Iwas, this stimulus almost made me delirious; so that of all I thenwent on to relate concerning my residence on the island I canscarcely remember a word. After this I was asked whether I desired to"ship"; of course I said yes; that is, if he would allow me to enterfor one cruise, engaging to discharge me, if I so desired, at thenext port. In this way men are frequently shipped on board whalemenin the South Seas. My stipulation was acceded to, and the ship'sarticles handed me to sign. 

The mate was now called below, and charged to make a "well man" of me;not, let it be borne in mind, that the captain felt any greatcompassion for me, he only desired to have the benefit of my servicesas soon as possible. 

Helping me on deck, the mate stretched me out on the windlass andcommenced examining my limb; and then doctoring it after a fashionwith something from the medicine-chest, rolled it up in a piece of anold sail, making so big a bundle that, with my feet resting on thewindlass, I might have been taken for a sailor with the gout. Whilethis was going on, someone removing my tappa cloak slipped on a bluefrock in its place, and another, actuated by the same desire to makea civilized mortal of me, flourished about my head a great pair lieimminent jeopardy of both ears, and the certain destruction of hairand beard. 

The day was now drawing to a close, and, as the land faded from mysight, I was all alive to the change in my condition. But how farshort of our expectations is oftentimes the fulfilment of the mostardent hopes. Safe aboard of a ship--so long my earnest prayer--withhome and friends once more in prospect, I nevertheless felt weigheddown by a melancholy that could not be shaken off. It was the thoughtof never more seeing those who, notwithstanding their desire toretain me a captive, had, upon the whole, treated me so kindly. I wasleaving them for ever. 

So unforeseen and sudden had been my escape, so excited had I beenthrough it all, and so great the contrast between the luxuriousrepose of the valley, and the wild noise and motion of a ship at sea, that at times my recent adventures had all the strangeness of adream; and I could scarcely believe that the same sun now settingover a waste of waters, had that very morning risen above themountains and peered in upon me as I lay on my mat in Typee. 

Going below into the forecastle just after dark, I was inducted into awretched "bunk" or sleeping-box built over another. The ricketybottoms of both were spread with several pieces of a blanket. Abattered tin can was then handed me, containing about half a pint of"tea"--so called by courtesy, though whether the juice of such stalksas one finds floating therein deserves that title, is a matter allshipowners must settle with their consciences. A cube of salt beef, on a hard round biscuit by way of platter, was also handed up; andwithout more ado, I made a meal, the salt flavour of which, after theNebuchadnezzar fare of the valley, was positively delicious. 

While thus engaged, an old sailor on a chest just under me was puffingout volumes of tobacco smoke. My supper finished, he brushed the stemof his sooty pipe against the sleeve of his frock, and politely wavedit toward me. The attention was sailor-like; as for the nicety of thething, no man who has lived in forecastles is at all fastidious; andso, after a few vigorous whiffs to induce repose, I turned over andtried my best to forget myself. But in vain. My crib, instead ofextending fore and aft, as it should have done, was placed athwartships, that is, at right angles to the keel, and the vessel, goingbefore the wind, rolled to such a degree, that-every time my heelswent up and my head went down, I thought I was on the point ofturning a somerset. Beside this, there were still more annoyingcauses of inquietude; and every once in a while a splash of watercame down the open scuttle, and flung the spray in my face. 

At last, after a sleepless night, broken twice by the merciless callof the watch, a peep of daylight struggled into view from above, andsomeone came below. It was my old friend with the pipe. 

"Here, shipmate, " said I, "help me out of this place, and let me goon deck. "

"Halloa, who's that croaking?" was the rejoinder, as he peered intothe obscurity where I lay. "Ay, Typee, my king of the cannibals, isit you I But I say, my lad, how's that spar of your'n? the mate saysit's in a devil of a way; and last night set the steward tosharpening the handsaw: hope he won't have the carving of ye. "

Long before daylight we arrived off the bay of Nukuheva, and makingshort tacks until morning, we then ran in and sent a boat ashore withthe natives who had brought me to the ship. Upon its return, we madesail again, and stood off from the land. There was a fine breeze; andnotwithstanding my bad night's rest, the cool, fresh air of amorning at sea was so bracing, mat, as soon as I breathed it, myspirits rose at once. 

Seated upon the windlass the greater portion of the day, and chattingfreely with the men, I learned the history of the voyage thus far, and everything respecting the ship and its present condition. 

These matters I will now throw together in the next chapter. 

CHAPTER II. 

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP

FIRST AND foremost, I must give some account of the Julia herself; or"Little Jule, " as the sailors familiarly styled her. 

She was a small barque of a beautiful model, something more than twohundred tons, Yankee-built and very old. Fitted for a privateer outof a New England port during the war of 1812, she had been capturedat sea by a British cruiser, and, after seeing all sorts of service, was at last employed as a government packet in the Australian seas. Being condemned, however, about two years previous, she was purchasedat auction by a house in Sydney, who, after some slight repairs, dispatched her on the present voyage. 

Notwithstanding the repairs, she was still in a miserable plight. Thelower masts were said to be unsound; the standing rigging was muchworn; and, in some places, even the bulwarks were quite rotten. Still, she was tolerably tight, and but little more than the ordinarypumping of a morning served to keep her free. 

But all this had nothing to do with her sailing; at that, brave LittleJule, plump Little Jule, was a witch. Blow high, or blow low, she wasalways ready for the breeze; and when she dashed the waves from herprow, and pranced, and pawed the sea, you never thought of herpatched sails and blistered hull. How the fleet creature would flybefore the wind! rolling, now and then, to be sure, but in veryplayfulness. Sailing to windward, no gale could bow her over: withspars erect, she looked right up into the wind's eye, and so she went. 

But after all, Little Jule was not to be confided in. Lively enough, and playful she was, but on that very account the more to bedistrusted. Who knew, but that like some vivacious old mortal all atonce sinking into a decline, she might, some dark night, spring aleak and carry us all to the bottom. However, she played us no suchugly trick, and therefore, I wrong Little Jule in supposing it. 

She had a free roving commission. According to her papers she might gowhither she pleased--whaling, sealing, or anything else. Spermwhaling, however, was what she relied upon; though, as yet, only twofish had been brought alongside. 

The day they sailed out of Sydney Heads, the ship's company, all told, numbered some thirty-two souls; now, they mustered about twenty; therest had deserted. Even the three junior mates who had headed thewhaleboats were gone: and of the four harpooners, only one was left, a wild New Zealander, or "Mowree" as his countrymen are more commonlycalled in the Pacific. But this was not all. More than half theseamen remaining were more or less unwell from a long sojourn in adissipated port; some of them wholly unfit for duty, one or twodangerously ill, and the rest managing to stand their watch thoughthey could do but little. 

The captain was a young cockney, who, a few years before, hademigrated to Australia, and, by some favouritism or other, hadprocured the command of the vessel, though in no wise competent. He was essentially a landsman, and though a man of education, no moremeant for the sea than a hairdresser. Hence everybody made fun ofhim. They called him "The Cabin Boy, " "Paper Jack, " and half a dozenother undignified names. In truth, the men made no secret of thederision in which they held him; and as for the slender gentlemanhimself, he knew it all very well, and bore himself with becomingmeekness. Holding as little intercourse with them as possible, heleft everything to the chief mate, who, as the story went, had beengiven his captain in charge. Yet, despite his apparent unobtrusiveness, the silent captain had more to do with the men than they thought. Inshort, although one of your sheepish-looking fellows, he had a sortof still, timid cunning, which no one would have suspected, and which, for that very reason, was all the more active. So the bluff mate, who always thought he did what he pleased, was occasionally made afool of; and some obnoxious measures which he carried out, in spiteof all growlings, were little thought to originate with the dapperlittle fellow in nankeen jacket and white canvas pumps. But, to allappearance, at least, the mate had everything his own way; indeed, in most things this was actually the case; and it was quite plainthat the captain stood in awe of him. 

So far as courage, seamanship, and a natural aptitude for keepingriotous spirits in subjection were concerned, no man was betterqualified for his vocation than John Jermin. He was the verybeau-ideal of the efficient race of short, thick-set men. His haircurled in little rings of iron gray all over his round bullet head. Asfor his countenance, it was strongly marked, deeply pitted with thesmall-pox. For the rest, there was a fierce little squint out of oneeye; the nose had a rakish twist to one side; while his large mouth, and great white teeth, looked absolutely sharkish when he laughed. Ina word, no one, after getting a fair look at him, would ever think ofimproving the shape of his nose, wanting in symmetry as it was. Notwithstanding his pugnacious looks, however, Jermin had a heart asbig as a bullock's; that you saw at a glance. 

Such was our mate; but he had one failing: he abhorred all weakinfusions, and cleaved manfully to strong drink.. At all times he wasmore or less under the influence of it. Taken in moderate quantities, I believe, in my soul, it did a man like him good; brightened hiseyes, swept the cobwebs out of his brain, and regulated his pulse. But the worst of it was, that sometimes he drank too much, and a moreobstreperous fellow than Jermin in his cups, you seldom came across. He was always for having a fight; but the very men he flogged lovedhim as a brother, for he had such an irresistibly good-natured way ofknocking them down, that no one could find it in his heart to bearmalice against him. So much for stout little Jermin. 

All English whalemen are bound by-law to carry a physician, who, ofcourse, is rated a gentleman, and lives in the cabin, with nothingbut his professional duties to attend to; but incidentally he drinks"flip" and plays cards with the captain. There was such a worthyaboard of the Julia; but, curious to tell, he lived in the forecastlewith the men. And this was the way it happened. 

In the early part of the voyage the doctor and the captain livedtogether as pleasantly as could be. To say nothing of many a can theydrank over the cabin transom, both of them had read books, and one ofthem had travelled; so their stories never flagged. But once on atime they got into a dispute about politics, and the doctor, moreover, getting into a rage, drove home an argument with his fist, and left the captain on the floor literally silenced. This wascarrying it with a high hand; so he was shut up in his state-room forten days, and left to meditate on bread and water, and theimpropriety of flying into a passion. Smarting under his disgrace, heundertook, a short time after his liberation, to leave the vesselclandestinely at one of the islands, but was brought backignominiously, and again shut up. Being set at large for the secondtime, he vowed he would not live any longer with the captain, andwent forward with his chests among the sailors, where he was receivedwith open arms as a good fellow and an injured man. 

I must give some further account of him, for he figures largely in thenarrative. His early history, like that of many other heroes, wasenveloped in the profoundest obscurity; though he threw out hints ofa patrimonial estate, a nabob uncle, and an unfortunate affair whichsent him a-roving. All that was known, however, was this. He had goneout to Sydney as assistant-surgeon of an emigrant ship. On hisarrival there, he went back into the country, and after a few months'wanderings, returned to Sydney penniless, and entered as doctoraboard of the Julia. 

His personal appearance was remarkable. He was over six feet high--atower of bones, with a complexion absolutely colourless, fair hair, and a light unscrupulous gray eye, twinkling occasionally at the verydevil of mischief. Among the crew, he went by the name of the LongDoctor, or more frequently still, Doctor Long Ghost. And fromwhatever high estate Doctor Long Ghost might have fallen, he hadcertainly at some time or other spent money, drunk Burgundy, andassociated with gentlemen. 

As for his learning, he quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbs ofMalmsbury, beside repeating poetry by the canto, especially Hudibras. He was, moreover, a man who had seen the world. In the easiest wayimaginable, he could refer to an amour he had in Palermo, hislion-hunting before breakfast among the Caffres, and the quality ofthe coffee to be drunk in Muscat; and about these places, and ahundred others, he had more anecdotes than I can tell of. Then suchmellow old songs as he sang, in a voice so round and racy, the realjuice of sound. How such notes came forth from his lank body was aconstant marvel. 

Upon the whole, Long Ghost was as entertaining a companion as onecould wish; and to me in the Julia, an absolute godsend. 

CHAPTER III. 

FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA

OWING to the absence of anything like regular discipline, the vesselwas in a state of the greatest uproar. The captain, having for sometime past been more or less confined to the cabin from sickness, wasseldom seen. The mate, however, was as hearty as a young lion, andran about the decks making himself heard at all hours. Bembo, theNew Zealand harpooner, held little intercourse with anybody but themate, who could talk to him freely in his own lingo. Part of his timehe spent out on the bowsprit, fishing for albicores with a bone hook;and occasionally he waked all hands up of a dark night dancing somecannibal fandango all by himself on the forecastle. But, upon thewhole, he was remarkably quiet, though something in his eye showed hewas far from being harmless. 

Doctor Long Ghost, having sent in a written resignation as the ship'sdoctor, gave himself out as a passenger for Sydney, and took theworld quite easy. As for the crew, those who were sick seemedmarvellously contented for men in their condition; and the rest, notdispleased with the general licence, gave themselves little thoughtof the morrow. 

The Julia's provisions were very poor. When opened, the barrels ofpork looked as if preserved in iron rust, and diffused an odour likea stale ragout. The beef was worse yet; a mahogany-coloured fibroussubstance, so tough and tasteless, that I almost believed the cook'sstory of a horse's hoof with the shoe on having been fished up out ofthe pickle of one of the casks. Nor was the biscuit much better;nearly all of it was broken into hard, little gunflints, honeycombedthrough and through, as if the worms usually infesting this articlein long tropical voyages had, in boring after nutriment, come out atthe antipodes without finding anything. 

Of what sailors call "small stores, " we had but little. "Tea, "however, we had in abundance; though, I dare say, the Hong merchantsnever had the shipping of it. Beside this, every other day we hadwhat English seamen call "shot soup"--great round peas, polishingthemselves like pebbles by rolling about in tepid water. 

It was afterward told me, that all our provisions had been purchasedby the owners at an auction sale of condemned navy stores in Sydney. 

But notwithstanding the wateriness of the first course of soup, andthe saline flavour of the beef and pork, a sailor might have made asatisfactory meal aboard of the Julia had there been any sidedishes--a potato or two, a yam, or a plantain. But there was nothingof the kind. Still, there was something else, which, in the estimationof the men, made up for all deficiencies; and that was the regularallowance of Pisco. 

It may seem strange that in such a state of affairs the captain shouldbe willing to keep the sea with his ship. But the truth was, that bylying in harbour, he ran the risk of losing the remainder of his menby desertion; and as it was, he still feared that, in some outlandishbay or other, he might one day find his anchor down, and no crew toweigh it. 

With judicious officers the most unruly seamen can at sea be kept insome sort of subjection; but once get them within a cable's length ofthe land, and it is hard restraining them. It is for this reason thatmany South Sea whalemen do not come to anchor for eighteen or twentymonths on a stretch. When fresh provisions are needed, they run forthe nearest land--heave to eight or ten miles off, and send a boatashore to trade. The crews manning vessels like these are for the mostpart villains of all nations and dyes; picked up in the lawless portsof the Spanish Main, and among the savages of the islands. Likegalley-slaves, they are only to be governed by scourges and chains. Their officers go among them with dirk and pistol--concealed, butready at a grasp. 

Not a few of our own crew were men of this stamp; but, riotous attimes as they were, the bluff drunken energies of Jennin were justthe thing to hold them in some sort of noisy subjection. Upon anemergency, he flew in among them, showering his kicks and cuffs rightand left, and "creating a sensation" in every direction. And ashinted before, they bore this knock-down authority with greatgood-humour. A sober, discreet, dignified officer could have donenothing with them; such a set would have thrown him and his dignityoverboard. 

Matters being thus, there was nothing for the ship but to keep thesea. Nor was the captain without hope that the invalid portion of hiscrew, as well as himself, would soon recover; and then there was notelling what luck in the fishery might yet be in store for us. At anyrate, at the time of my coming aboard, the report was, that CaptainGuy was resolved upon retrieving the past and filling the vessel withoil in the shortest space possible. 

With this intention, we were now shaping our course for Hytyhoo, avillage on the island of St. Christina--one of the Marquesas, and sonamed by Mendanna--for the purpose of obtaining eight seamen, who, some weeks before, had stepped ashore there from the Julia. It wassupposed that, by this time, they must have recreated themselvessufficiently, and would be glad to return to their duty. 

So to Hytyhoo, with all our canvas spread, and coquetting with thewarm, breezy Trades, we bowled along; gliding up and down the long, slow swells, the bonettas and albicores frolicking round us. 

CHAPTER IV. 

A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE

I HAD scarcely been aboard of the ship twenty-four hours, when acircumstance occurred, which, although noways picturesque, is sosignificant of the state of affairs that I cannot forbear relatingit. 

In the first place, however, it must be known, that among the crew wasa man so excessively ugly, that he went by the ironical appellationof "Beauty. " He was the ship's carpenter; and for that reason wassometimes known by his nautical cognomen of "Chips. " There was noabsolute deformity about the man; he was symmetrically ugly. But illfavoured as he was in person, Beauty was none the less ugly intemper; but no one could blame him; his countenance had soured hisheart. Now Jermin and Beauty were always at swords' points. Thetruth was, the latter was the only man in the ship whom the mate hadnever decidedly got the better of; and hence the grudge he bore him. As for Beauty, he prided himself upon talking up to the mate, as weshall soon see. 

Toward evening there was something to be done on deck, and thecarpenter who belonged to the watch was missing. "Where's that skulk, Chips?" shouted Jermin down the forecastle scuttle. 

"Taking his ease, d'ye see, down here on a chest, if you want toknow, " replied that worthy himself, quietly withdrawing his pipe fromhis mouth. This insolence flung the fiery little mate into a mightyrage; but Beauty said nothing, puffing away with all the tranquillityimaginable. Here it must be remembered that, never mind what may bethe provocation, no prudent officer ever dreams of entering a ship'sforecastle on a hostile visit. If he wants to see anybody who happensto be there, and refuses to come up, why he must wait patiently untilthe sailor is willing. The reason is this. The place is very dark:and nothing is easier than to knock one descending on the head, before he knows where he is, and a very long while before he everfinds out who did it. 

Nobody knew this better than Jermin, and so he contented himself withlooking down the scuttle and storming. At last Beauty made some coolobservation which set him half wild. 

"Tumble on deck, " he then bellowed--"come, up with you, or I'll jumpdown and make you. " The carpenter begged him to go about it at once. 

No sooner said than done: prudence forgotten, Jermin was there; and bya sort of instinct, had his man by the throat before he could wellsee him. One of the men now made a rush at him, but the rest draggedhim off, protesting that they should have fair play. 

"Now come on deck, " shouted the mate, struggling like a good fellow tohold the carpenter fast. 

"Take me there, " was the dogged answer, and Beauty wriggled about inthe nervous grasp of the other like a couple of yards ofboa-constrictor. 

His assailant now undertook to make him up into a compact bundle, themore easily to transport him. While thus occupied, Beauty got hisarms loose, and threw him over backward. But Jermin quickly recoveredhimself, when for a time they had it every way, dragging each otherabout, bumping their heads against the projecting beams, andreturning each other's blows the first favourable opportunity thatoffered. Unfortunately, Jermin at last slipped and fell; his foeseating himself on his chest, and keeping him down. Now this was oneof those situations in which the voice of counsel, or reproof, comeswith peculiar unction. Nor did Beauty let the opportunity slip. Butthe mate said nothing in reply, only foaming at the mouth andstruggling to rise. 

Just then a thin tremor of a voice was heard from above. It was thecaptain; who, happening to ascend to the quarter-deck at thecommencement of the scuffle, would gladly have returned to the cabin, but was prevented by the fear of ridicule. As the din increased, andit became evident that his officer was in serious trouble, he thoughtit would never do to stand leaning over the bulwarks, so he made hisappearance on the forecastle, resolved, as his best policy, to treatthe matter lightly. 

"Why, why, " he begun, speaking pettishly, and very fast, "what's allthis about?--Mr. Jermin, Mr. Jermin--carpenter, carpenter; what areyou doing down there? Come on deck; come on deck. "

Whereupon Doctor Long Ghost cries out in a squeak, "Ah! Miss Guy, isthat you? Now, my dear, go right home, or you'll get hurt. "

"Pooh, pooh! you, sir, whoever you are, I was not speaking to you;none of your nonsense. Mr. Jermin, I was talking to you; have thekindness to come on deck, sir; I want to see you. "

"And how, in the devil's name, am I to get there?" cried the mate, furiously. "Jump down here, Captain Guy, and show yourself a man. Letme up, you Chips! unhand me, I say! Oh! I'll pay you for this, someday! Come on, Captain Guy!"

At this appeal, the poor man was seized with a perfect spasm offidgets. "Pooh, pooh, carpenter; have done with your nonsense! Lethim up, sir; let him up! Do you hear? Let Mr. Jermm come on deck!"

"Go along with you, Paper Jack, " replied Beauty; "this quarrel'sbetween the mate and me; so go aft, where you belong!"

As the captain once more dipped his head down the scuttle to makeanswer, from an unseen hand he received, full in the face, thecontents of a tin can of soaked biscuit and tea-leaves. The doctorwas not far off just then. Without waiting for anything more, thediscomfited gentleman, with both hands to his streaming face, retreated to the quarter-deck. 

A few moments more, and Jermin, forced to a compromise, followedafter, in his torn frock and scarred face, looking for all the worldas if he had just disentangled himself from some intricate piece ofmachinery. For about half an hour both remained in the cabin, wherethe mate's rough tones were heard high above the low, smooth voice ofthe captain. 

Of all his conflicts with the men, this was the first in which Jerminhad been worsted; and he was proportionably enraged. Upon goingbelow--as the steward afterward told us--he bluntly informed Guythat, for the future, he might look out for his ship himself; for hispart, he had done with her, if that was the way he allowed hisofficers to be treated. After many high words, the captain finallyassured him that, the first fitting opportunity, the carpenter shouldbe cordially flogged; though, as matters stood, the experiment wouldbe a hazardous one. Upon this Jermin reluctantly consented to dropthe matter for the present; and he soon drowned all thoughts of it ina can of flip, which Guy had previously instructed the steward toprepare, as a sop to allay his wrath. 

Nothing more ever came of this. 

CHAPTER V. 

WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO

LESS than forty-eight hours after leaving Nukuheva, the blue, loomingisland of St. Christina greeted us from afar. Drawing near theshore, the grim, black spars and waspish hull of a small man-of-warcraft crept into view; the masts and yards lined distinctly againstthe sky. She was riding to her anchor in the bay, and proved to be aFrench corvette. 

This pleased our captain exceedingly, and, coming on deck, he examinedher from the mizzen rigging with his glass. His original intentionwas not to let go an anchor; but, counting upon the assistance of thecorvette in case of any difficulty, he now changed his mind, andanchored alongside of her. As soon as a boat could be lowered, hethen went off to pay his respects to the commander, and, moreover, aswe supposed, to concert measures for the apprehension of therunaways. 

Returning in the course of twenty minutes, he brought along with himtwo officers in undress and whiskers, and three or four drunkenobstreperous old chiefs; one with his legs thrust into the armholesof a scarlet vest, another with a pair of spurs on his heels, and athird in a cocked hat and feather. In addition to these articles, they merely wore the ordinary costume of their race--a slip of nativecloth about the loins. Indecorous as their behaviour was, theseworthies turned out to be a deputation from the reverend the clergyof the island; and the object of their visit was to put our shipunder a rigorous "Taboo, " to prevent the disorderly scenes andfacilities for desertion which would ensue, were the natives--men andwomen--allowed to come off to us freely. 

There was little ceremony about the matter. The priests went aside fora moment, laid their shaven old crowns together, and went over alittle mummery. Whereupon, their leader tore a long strip from hisgirdle of white tappa, and handed it to one of the French officers, who, after explaining what was to be done, gave it to Jermin. Themate at once went out to the end of the flying jib boom, and fastenedthere the mystic symbol of the ban. This put to flight a party ofgirls who had been observed swimming toward us. Tossing their armsabout, and splashing the water like porpoises, with loud cries of"taboo! taboo!" they turned about and made for the shore. 

The night of our arrival, the mate and the Mowree were to stand "watchand watch, " relieving each other every four hours; the crew, as issometimes customary when lying at an anchor, being allowed to remainall night below. A distrust of the men, however, was, in the presentinstance, the principal reason for this proceeding. Indeed, it wasall but certain, that some kind of attempt would be made atdesertion; and therefore, when Jermin's first watch came on at eightbells (midnight)--by which time all was quiet--he mounted to the deckwith a flask of spirits in one hand, and the other in readiness toassail the first countenance that showed itself above the forecastlescuttle. 

Thus prepared, he doubtless meant to stay awake; but for all that, hebefore long fell asleep; and slept with such hearty good-will too, that the men who left us that night might have been waked up by hissnoring. Certain it was, the mate snored most strangely; and nowonder, with that crooked bugle of his. When he came to himself itwas just dawn, but quite light enough to show two boats gone from theside. In an instant he knew what had happened. 

Dragging the Mowree out of an old sail where he was napping, heordered him to clear away another boat, and then darted into thecabin to tell the captain the news. Springing on deck again, hedrove down into the forecastle for a couple of oarsmen, but hardlygot there before there was a cry, and a loud splash heard over theside. It was the Mowree and the boat--into which he had just leapedto get ready for lowering--rolling over and over in the water. 

The boat having at nightfall been hoisted up to its place over thestarboard quarter, someone had so cut the tackles which held itthere, that a moderate strain would at once part them. Bembo's weighthad answered the purpose, showing that the deserters must haveascertained his specific gravity to a fibre of hemp. There wasanother boat remaining; but it was as well to examine it beforeattempting to lower. And it was well they did; for there was a holein the bottom large enough to drop a barrel through: she had beenscuttled most ruthlessly. 

Jermin was frantic. Dashing his hat upon deck, he was about to plungeoverboard and swim to the corvette for a cutter, when Captain Guymade his appearance and begged him to stay where he was. By this timethe officer of the deck aboard the Frenchman had noticed ourmovements, and hailed to know what had happened. Guy informed himthrough his trumpet, and men to go in pursuit were instantlypromised. There was a whistling of a boatswain's pipe, an order ortwo, and then a large cutter pulled out from the man-of-war's stern, and in half a dozen strokes was alongside. The mate leaped into her, and they pulled rapidly ashore. 

Another cutter, carrying an armed crew, soon followed. 

In an hour's time the first returned, towing the two whale-boats, which had been found turned up like tortoises on the beach. 

Noon came, and nothing more was heard from the deserters. MeanwhileDoctor Long Ghost and myself lounged about, cultivating anacquaintance, and gazing upon the shore scenery. The bay was as calmas death; the sun high and hot; and occasionally a still glidingcanoe stole out from behind the headlands, and shot across the water. 

And all the morning long our sick men limped about the deck, castingwistful glances inland, where the palm-trees waved and beckoned theminto their reviving shades. Poor invalid rascals! How conducive tothe restoration of their shattered health would have been thosedelicious groves! But hard-hearted Jermin assured them, with an oath, that foot of theirs should never touch the beach. 

Toward sunset a crowd was seen coming down to the water. In advance ofall were the fugitives--bareheaded--their frocks and trousers hangingin tatters, every face covered with blood and dust, and their armspinioned behind them with green thongs. Following them up, was ashouting rabble of islanders, pricking them with the points of theirlong spears, the party from the corvette menacing them in flank withtheir naked cutlasses. 

The bonus of a musket to the King of the Bay, and the promise of atumblerful of powder for every man caught, had set the wholepopulation on their track; and so successful was the hunt, that notonly were that morning's deserters brought back, but five of thoseleft behind on a former visit. The natives, however, were the merehounds of the chase, raising the game in their coverts, but leavingthe securing of it to the Frenchmen. Here, as elsewhere, theislanders have no idea of taking part in such a scuffle as ensuesupon the capture of a party of desperate seamen. 

The runaways were at once brought aboard, and, though they lookedrather sulky, soon came round, and treated the whole affair as afrolicsome adventure. 

CHAPTER VI. 

WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA

FEARFUL of spending another night at Hytyhoo, Captain Guy caused theship to be got under way shortly after dark. 

The next morning, when all supposed that we were fairly embarked for along cruise, our course was suddenly altered for La Dominica, orHivarhoo, an island just north of the one we had quitted. The objectof this, as we learned, was to procure, if possible, several Englishsailors, who, according to the commander of the corvette, hadrecently gone ashore there from an American whaler, and were desirousof shipping aboard one of their own country vessels. 

We made the land in the afternoon, coming abreast of a shady glenopening from a deep bay, and winding by green denies far out ofsight. "Hands by the weather-main-brace!" roared the mate, jumping upon the bulwarks; and in a moment the prancing Julia, suddenlyarrested in her course, bridled her head like a steed reined in, while the foam flaked under her bows. 

This was the place where we expected to obtain the men; so a boat wasat once got in readiness to go ashore. Now it was necessary toprovide a picked crew--men the least likely to abscond. Afterconsiderable deliberation on the part of the captain and mate, fourof the seamen were pitched upon as the most trustworthy; or ratherthey were selected from a choice assortment of suspicious charactersas being of an inferior order of rascality. 

Armed with cutlasses all round--the natives were said to be an uglyset--they were followed over the side by the invalid captain, who, onthis occasion, it seems, was determined to signalize himself. Accordingly, in addition to his cutlass, he wore an old boardingbelt, in which was thrust a brace of pistols. They at once shovedoff. 

My friend Long Ghost had, among other things which looked somewhatstrange in a ship's forecastle, a capital spy-glass, and on thepresent occasion we had it in use. 

When the boat neared the head of the inlet, though invisible to thenaked eye, it was plainly revealed by the glass; looking no biggerthan an egg-shell, and the men diminished to pigmies. 

At last, borne on what seemed a long flake of foam, the tiny craftshot up the beach amid a shower of sparkles. Not a soul was there. Leaving one of their number by the water, the rest of the pigmiesstepped ashore, looking about them very circumspectly, pausing nowand then hand to ear, and peering under a dense grove which sweptdown within a few paces of the sea. No one came, and to allappearances everything was as still as the grave. Presently he withthe pistols, followed by the rest flourishing their bodkins, enteredthe wood and were soon lost to view. They did not stay long; probablyanticipating some inhospitable ambush were they to stray any distanceup the glen. 

In a few moments they embarked again, and were soon riding pertly overthe waves of the bay. All of a sudden the captain started to hisfeet--the boat spun round, and again made for the shore. Some twentyor thirty natives armed with spears which through the glass lookedlike reeds, had just come out of the grove, and were apparentlyshouting to the strangers not to be in such a hurry, but return andbe sociable. But they were somewhat distrusted, for the boat pausedabout its length from the beach, when the captain standing up in itshead delivered an address in pantomime, the object of which seemed tobe, that the islanders should draw near. One of them stepped forwardand made answer, seemingly again urging the strangers not to bediffident, but beach their boat. The captain declined, tossing hisarms about in another pantomime. In the end he said something whichmade them shake their spears; whereupon he fired a pistol among them, which set the whole party running; while one poor little fellow, dropping his spear and clapping his hand behind him, limped away in amanner which almost made me itch to get a shot at his assailant. 

Wanton acts of cruelty like this are not unusual on the part of seacaptains landing at islands comparatively unknown. Even at the Pomotugroup, but a day's sail from Tahiti, the islanders coming down to theshore have several times been fired at by trading schooners passingthrough their narrow channels; and this too as a mere amusement onthe part of the ruffians. 

Indeed, it is almost incredible, the light in which many sailorsregard these naked heathens. They hardly consider them human. But itis a curious fact, that the more ignorant and degraded men are, themore contemptuously they look upon those whom they deem theirinferiors. 

All powers of persuasion being thus lost upon these foolish savages, and no hope left of holding further intercourse, the boat returned tothe ship. 

CHAPTER VII. 

WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO

ON the other side of the island was the large and populous bay ofHannamanoo, where the men sought might yet be found. But as the sunwas setting by the time the boat came alongside, we got our offshoretacks aboard and stood away for an offing. About daybreak we wore, and ran in, and by the time the sun was well up, entered the long, narrow channel dividing the islands of La Dominica and St. Christina. 

On one hand was a range of steep green bluffs hundreds of feet high, the white huts of the natives here and there nestling like birds'nests in deep clefts gushing with verdure. Across the water, theland rolled away in bright hillsides, so warm and undulating thatthey seemed almost to palpitate in the sun. On we swept, past bluffand grove, wooded glen and valley, and dark ravines lighted up farinland with wild falls of water. A fresh land-breeze filled oursails, the embayed waters were gentle as a lake, and every wave brokewith a tinkle against our coppered prow. 

On gaining the end of the channel we rounded a point, and came fullupon the bay of Hannamanoo. This is the only harbour of any noteabout the island, though as far as a safe anchorage is concerned ithardly deserves the title. 

Before we held any communication with the shore, an incident occurredwhich may convey some further idea of the character of our crew. 

Having approached as near the land as we could prudently, our headwaywas stopped, and we awaited the arrival of a canoe which was comingout of the bay. All at once we got into a strong current, which sweptus rapidly toward a rocky promontory forming one side of the harbour. The wind had died away; so two boats were at once lowered for thepurpose of pulling the ship's head round. Before this could be done, the eddies were whirling upon all sides, and the rock so near that itseemed as if one might leap upon it from the masthead. Notwithstandingthe speechless fright of the captain, and the hoarse shouts of theunappalled Jennin, the men handled the ropes as deliberately aspossible, some of them chuckling at the prospect of going ashore, andothers so eager for the vessel to strike, that they could hardlycontain themselves. Unexpectedly a countercurrent befriended us, andassisted by the boats we were soon out of danger. 

What a disappointment for our crew! All their little plans forswimming ashore from the wreck, and having a fine time of it for therest of their days, thus cruelly nipped in the bud. 

Soon after, the canoe came alongside. In it were eight or ten natives, comely, vivacious-looking youths, all gesture and exclamation; thered feathers in their head-bands perpetually nodding. With them alsocame a stranger, a renegade from Christendom and humanity--a whiteman, in the South Sea girdle, and tattooed in the face. A broad blueband stretched across his face from ear to ear, and on his foreheadwas the taper figure of a blue shark, nothing but fins from head totail. 

Some of us gazed upon this man with a feeling akin to horror, no waysabated when informed that he had voluntarily submitted to thisembellishment of his countenance. What an impress! Far worse thanCain's--his was perhaps a wrinkle, or a freckle, which some of ourmodern cosmetics might have effaced; but the blue shark was a markindelible, which all the waters of Abana and Pharpar, rivers ofDamascus, could never wash out. He was an Englishman, Lem Hardy hecalled himself, who had deserted from a trading brig touching at theisland for wood and water some ten years previous. He had gone ashoreas a sovereign power armed with a musket and a bag of ammunition, andready if need were, to prosecute war on his own account. The countrywas divided by the hostile kings of several large valleys. With oneof them, from whom he first received overtures, he formed analliance, and became what he now was, the military leader of thetribe, and war-god of the entire island. 

His campaigns beat Napoleon's. In one night attack, his invinciblemusket, backed by the light infantry of spears and javelins, vanquished two clans, and the next morning brought all the others tothe feet of his royal ally. 

Nor was the rise of his domestic fortunes at all behind theCorsican's: three days after landing, the exquisitely tattooed handof a princess was his; receiving along with the damsel as herportion, one thousand fathoms of fine tappa, fifty double-braidedmats of split grass, four hundred hogs, ten houses in different partsof her native valley, and the sacred protection of an express edictof the Taboo, declaring his person inviolable for ever. 

Now, this man was settled for life, perfectly satisfied with hiscircumstances, and feeling no desire to return to his friends. 

"Friends, " indeed, he had none. He told me his history. Thrown uponthe world a foundling, his paternal origin was as much a mystery tohim as the genealogy of Odin; and, scorned by everybody, he fled theparish workhouse when a boy, and launched upon the sea. He hadfollowed it for several years, a dog before the mast, and now he hadthrown it up for ever. 

And for the most part, it is just this sort of men--so many of whomare found among sailors--uncared for by a single soul, without ties, reckless, and impatient of the restraints of civilization, who areoccasionally found quite at home upon the savage islands of thePacific. And, glancing at their hard lot in their own country, whatmarvel at their choice?

According to the renegado, there was no other white man on the island;and as the captain could have no reason to suppose that Hardyintended to deceive us, he concluded that the Frenchmen were in someway or other mistaken in what they had told us. However, when ourerrand was made known to the rest of our visitors, one of them, afine, stalwart fellow, his face all eyes and expression, volunteeredfor a cruise. All the wages he asked was a red shirt, a pair oftrousers, and a hat, which were to be put on there and then; besidesa plug of tobacco and a pipe. The bargain was struck directly; butWymontoo afterward came in with a codicil, to the effect that afriend of his, who had come along with him, should be given ten wholesea-biscuits, without crack or flaw, twenty perfectly new andsymmetrically straight nails, and one jack-knife. This being agreedto, the articles were at once handed over; the native receiving themwith great avidity, and in the absence of clothing, using his mouth asa pocket to put the nails in. Two of them, however, were first madeto take the place of a pair of ear-ornaments, curiously fashioned outof bits of whitened wood. 

It now began breezing strongly from seaward, and no time was to belost in getting away from the land; so after an affecting rubbing ofnoses between our new shipmate and his countrymen, we sailed awaywith him. 

To our surprise, the farewell shouts from the canoe, as we dashedalong under bellied royals, were heard unmoved by our islander; butit was not long thus. That very evening, when the dark blue of hisnative hills sunk in the horizon, the poor savage leaned over thebulwarks, dropped his head upon his chest, and gave way toirrepressible emotions. The ship was plunging hard, and Wymontoo, sadto tell, in addition to his other pangs, was terribly sea-sick. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA

FOR a while leaving Little Jule to sail away by herself, I will hereput down some curious information obtained from Hardy. 

The renegado had lived so long on the island that its customs werequite familiar; and I much lamented that, from the shortness of ourstay, he could not tell us more than he did. 

From the little intelligence gathered, however, I learned to mysurprise that, in some things, the people of Hivarhoo, though of thesame group of islands, differed considerably from my tropical friendsin the valley of Typee. 

As his tattooing attracted so much remark, Hardy had a good deal tosay concerning the manner in which that art was practised upon theisland. 

Throughout the entire cluster the tattooers of Hivarhoo enjoyed nosmall reputation. They had carried their art to the highestperfection, and the profession was esteemed most honourable. Nowonder, then, that like genteel tailors, they rated their servicesvery high; so much so that none but those belonging to the higherclasses could afford to employ them. So true was this, that theelegance of one's tattooing was in most cases a sure indication ofbirth and riches. 

Professors in large practice lived in spacious houses, divided byscreens of tappa into numerous little apartments, where subjects werewaited upon in private. The arrangement chiefly grew out of asingular ordinance of the Taboo, which enjoined the strictest privacyupon all men, high and low, while under the hands of a tattooer. Forthe time, the slightest intercourse with others is prohibited, and thesmall portion of food allowed is pushed under the curtain by anunseen hand. The restriction with regard to food, is intended toreduce the blood, so as to diminish the inflammation consequent uponpuncturing the skin. As it is, this comes on very soon, and takessome time to heal; so that the period of seclusion generally embracesmany days, sometimes several weeks. 

All traces of soreness vanished, the subject goes abroad; but onlyagain to return; for, on account of the pain, only a small surfacecan be operated upon at once; and as the whole body is to be more orless embellished by a process so slow, the studios alluded to areconstantly filled. Indeed, with a vanity elsewhere unheard of, manyspend no small portion of their days thus sitting to an artist. 

To begin the work, the period of adolescence is esteemed the mostsuitable. After casting about for some eminent tattooer, the friendsof the youth take him to his house to have the outlines of thegeneral plan laid out. It behoves the professor to have a nice eye, for a suit to be worn for life should be well cut. 

Some tattooers, yearning after perfection, employ, at large wages, oneor two men of the commonest order--vile fellows, utterly regardlessof appearances, upon whom they first try their patterns and practisegenerally. Their backs remorselessly scrawled over, and no morecanvas remaining, they are dismissed and ever after go about, thescorn of their countrymen. 

Hapless wights! thus martyred in the cause of the Fine Arts. 

Beside the regular practitioners, there are a parcel of shabby, itinerant tattooers, who, by virtue of their calling, strollunmolested from one hostile bay to another, doing their workdog-cheap for the multitude. They always repair to the variousreligious festivals, which gather great crowds. When these areconcluded, and the places where they are held vacated even by thetattooers, scores of little tents of coarse tappa are left standing, each with a solitary inmate, who, forbidden to talk to his unseenneighbours, is obliged to stay there till completely healed. Theitinerants are a reproach to their profession, mere cobblers, dealingin nothing but jagged lines and clumsy patches, and utterly incapableof soaring to those heights of fancy attained by the gentlemen of thefaculty. 

All professors of the arts love to fraternize; and so, in Hannamanoo, the tattooers came together in the chapters of their worshipfulorder. In this society, duly organized, and conferring degrees, Hardy, from his influence as a white, was a sort of honorary GrandMaster. The blue shark, and a sort of Urim and Thummim engraven uponhis chest, were the seal of his initiation. All over Hivarhoo areestablished these orders of tattooers. The way in which the renegado'scame to be founded is this. A year or two after his landing therehappened to be a season of scarcity, owing to the partial failure ofthe breadfruit harvest for several consecutive seasons. This broughtabout such a falling off in the number of subjects for tattooing thatthe profession became quite needy. The royal ally of Hardy, however, hit upon a benevolent expedient to provide for their wants, at thesame time conferring a boon upon many of his subjects. 

By sound of conch-shell it was proclaimed before the palace, on thebeach, and at the head of the valley, that Noomai, King ofHannamanoo, and friend of Hardee-Hardee, the white, kept open heartand table for all tattooers whatsoever; but to entitle themselves tothis hospitality, they were commanded to practise without fee uponthe meanest native soliciting their services. 

Numbers at once flocked to the royal abode, both artists and sitters. It was a famous time; and the buildings of the palace being "taboo"to all but the tattooers and chiefs, the sitters bivouacked on thecommon, and formed an extensive encampment. 

The "Lora Tattoo, " or the Time of Tattooing, will be long remembered. An enthusiastic sitter celebrated the event in verse. Several lineswere repeated to us by Hardy, some of which, in a sort of colloquialchant he translated nearly thus:

 "Where is that sound? In Hannamanoo. And wherefore that sound? The sound of a hundred hammers, Tapping, tapping, tapping The shark teeth. "

 "Where is that light? Round about the king's house, And the small laughter? The small, merry laughter it is Of the sons and daughters of the tattooed. "

CHAPTER IX. 

WE STEER TO THE WESTWARD--STATE OF AFFAIRS

THE night we left Hannamanoo was bright and starry, and so warm that, when the watches were relieved, most of the men, instead of goingbelow, flung themselves around the foremast. 

Toward morning, finding the heat of the forecastle unpleasant, Iascended to the deck where everything was noiseless. The Trades wereblowing with a mild, steady strain upon the canvas, and the shipheading right out into the immense blank of the Western Pacific. Thewatch were asleep. With one foot resting on the rudder, even the manat the helm nodded, and the mate himself, with arms folded, wasleaning against the capstan. 

On such a night, and all alone, reverie was inevitable. I leaned overthe side, and could not help thinking of the strange objects we mightbe sailing over. 

But my meditations were soon interrupted by a gray, spectral shadowcast over the heaving billows. It was the dawn, soon followed by thefirst rays of the morning. They flashed into view at one end of thearched night, like--to compare great things with small--the gleamingsof Guy Fawkes's lantern in the vaults of the Parliament House. Before long, what seemed a live ember rested for a moment on the rimof the ocean, and at last the blood-red sun stood full and round inthe level East, and the long sea-day began. 

Breakfast over, the first thing attended to was the formal baptism ofWymontoo, who, after thinking over his affairs during the night, looked dismal enough. 

There were various opinions as to a suitable appellation. Somemaintained that we ought to call him "Sunday, " that being the day wecaught him; others, "Eighteen Forty-two, " the then year of our Lord;while Doctor Long Ghost remarked that he ought, by all means, toretain his original name, --Wymontoo-Hee, meaning (as he maintained), in the figurative language of the island, something analogous to onewho had got himself into a scrape. The mate put an end to thediscussion by sousing the poor fellow with a bucket of salt water, and bestowing upon him the nautical appellation of "Luff. "

Though a certain mirthfulness succeeded his first pangs at leavinghome, Wymontoo--we will call him thus--gradually relapsed into hisformer mood, and became very melancholy. Often I noticed himcrouching apart in the forecastle, his strange eyes gleamingrestlessly, and watching the slightest movement of the men. Many atime he must have been thinking of his bamboo hut, when they weretalking of Sydney and its dance-houses. 

We were now fairly at sea, though to what particular cruising-groundwe were going, no one knew; and, to all appearances, few cared. Themen, after a fashion of their own, began to settle down into theroutine of sea-life, as if everything was going on prosperously. Blown along over a smooth sea, there was nothing to do but steer theship, and relieve the "look-outs" at the mast-heads. As for the sick, they had two or three more added to their number--the air of theisland having disagreed with the constitutions of several of therunaways. To crown all, the captain again relapsed, and became quiteill. 

The men fit for duty were divided into two small watches, headedrespectively by the mate and the Mowree; the latter by virtue of hisbeing a harpooner, succeeding to the place of the second mate, whohad absconded. 

In this state of things whaling was out of the question; but in theface of everything, Jermin maintained that the invalids would soon bewell. However that might be, with the same pale Hue sky overhead, wekept running steadily to the westward. Forever advancing, we seemedalways in the same place, and every day was the former lived overagain. We saw no ships, expected to see none. No sign of life wasperceptible but the porpoises and other fish sporting under the bowslike pups ashore. But, at intervals, the gray albatross, peculiar tothese seas, came flapping his immense wings over us, and then skimmedaway silently as if from a plague-ship. Or flights of the tropicbird, known among seamen as the "boatswain, " wheeled round and roundus, whistling shrilly as they flew. 

The uncertainty hanging over our destination at this time, and thefact that we were abroad upon waters comparatively little traversed, lent an interest to this portion of the cruise which I shall neverforget. 

From obvious prudential considerations the Pacific has beenprincipally sailed over in known tracts, and this is the reason whynew islands are still occasionally discovered by exploring ships andadventurous whalers notwithstanding the great number of vessels ofall kinds of late navigating this vast ocean. Indeed, considerableportions still remain wholly unexplored; and there is doubt as to theactual existence of certain shoals, and reefs, and small clusters ofislands vaguely laid down in the charts. The mere circumstance, therefore, of a ship like ours penetrating into these regions, wassufficient to cause any reflecting mind to feel at least a littleuneasy. For my own part, the many stories I had heard of shipsstriking at midnight upon unknown rocks, with all sail set, and aslumbering crew, often recurred to me, especially, as from theabsence of discipline, and our being so shorthanded, the watches atnight were careless in the extreme. 

But no thoughts like these were entertained by my reckless shipmates;and along we went, the sun every evening setting right ahead of ourjib boom. 

For what reason the mate was so reserved with regard to our precisedestination was never made known. The stories he told us, I, for one, did not believe; deeming them all a mere device to lull the crew. 

He said we were bound to a fine cruising ground, scarcely known toother whalemen, which he had himself discovered when commanding asmall brig upon a former voyage. Here, the sea was alive with largewhales, so tame that all you had to do was to go up and kill them:they were too frightened to resist. A little to leeward of this was asmall cluster of islands, where we were going to refit, abounding withdelicious fruits, and peopled by a race almost wholly unsophisticatedby intercourse with strangers. 

In order, perhaps, to guard against the possibility of anyone findingout the precise latitude and longitude of the spot we were going to, Jermin never revealed to us the ship's place at noon, though such isthe custom aboard of most vessels. 

Meanwhile, he was very assiduous in his attention to the invalids. Doctor Long Ghost having given up the keys of the medicine-chest, they were handed over to him; and, as physician, he discharged hisduties to the satisfaction of all. Pills and powders, in most cases, were thrown to the fish, and in place thereof, the contents of amysterious little quarter cask were produced, diluted with water fromthe "butt. " His draughts were mixed on the capstan, in cocoa-nutshells marked with the patients' names. Like shore doctors, he didnot eschew his own medicines, for his professional calls in theforecastle were sometimes made when he was comfortably tipsy: nor didhe omit keeping his invalids in good-humour, spinning his yarns tothem, by the hour, whenever he went to see them. 

Owing to my lameness, from which I soon began to recover, I did noactive duty, except standing an occasional "trick" at the helm. Itwas in the forecastle chiefly, that I spent my time, in company withthe Long Doctor, who was at great pains to make himself agreeable. His books, though sadly torn and tattered, were an invaluableresource. I read them through again and again, including a learnedtreatise on the yellow fever. In addition to these, he had an oldfile of Sydney papers, and I soon became intimately acquainted withthe localities of all the advertising tradesmen there. In particular, the rhetorical flourishes of Stubbs, the real-estate auctioneer, diverted me exceedingly, and I set him down as no other than a pupilof Robins the Londoner. 

Aside from the pleasure of his society, my intimacy with Long Ghostwas of great service to me in other respects. His disgrace in thecabin only confirmed the good-will of the democracy in theforecastle; and they not only treated him in the most friendlymanner, but looked up to him with the utmost deference, besideslaughing heartily at all his jokes. As his chosen associate, thisfeeling for him extended to me, and gradually we came to be regardedin the light of distinguished guests. At meal-times we were alwaysfirst served, and otherwise were treated with much respect. 

Among other devices to kill time, during the frequent calms, LongGhost hit upon the game of chess. With a jack-knife, we carved thepieces quite tastefully out of bits of wood, and our board was themiddle of a chest-lid, chalked into squares, which, in playing, westraddled at either end. Having no other suitable way ofdistinguishing the sets, I marked mine by tying round them littlescarfs of black silk, torn from an old neck-handkerchief. Puttingthem in mourning this way, the doctor said, was quite appropriate, seeing that they had reason to feel sad three games out of four. Ofchess, the men never could make head nor tail; indeed, their wonderrose to such a pitch that they at last regarded the mysteriousmovements of the game with something more than perplexity; and afterpuzzling over them through several long engagements, they came to theconclusion that we must be a couple of necromancers. 

CHAPTER X. 

A SEA-PARLOUR DESCRIBED, WITH SOME OF ITS TENANTS

I MIGHT as well give some idea of the place in which the doctor and Ilived together so sociably. 

Most persons know that a ship's forecastle embraces the forward partof the deck about the bowsprit: the same term, however, is generallybestowed upon the sailors' sleeping-quarters, which occupy a spaceimmediately beneath, and are partitioned off by a bulkhead. 

Planted right in the bows, or, as sailors say, in the very eyes of theship, this delightful apartment is of a triangular shape, and isgenerally fitted with two tiers of rude bunks. Those of the Juliawere in a most deplorable condition, mere wrecks, some having beentorn down altogether to patch up others; and on one side there werebut two standing. But with most of the men it made little differencewhether they had a bunk or not, since, having no bedding, they hadnothing to put in it but themselves. 

Upon the boards of my own crib I spread all the old canvas and oldclothes I could pick up. For a pillow, I wrapped an old jacket rounda log. This helped a little the wear and tear of one's bones when theship rolled. 

Rude hammocks made out of old sails were in many cases used assubstitutes for the demolished bunks; but the space they swung in wasso confined that they were far from being agreeable. 

The general aspect of the forecastle was dungeon-like and dingy in theextreme. In the first place, it was not five feet from deck to deckand even this space was encroached upon by two outlandishcross-timbers bracing the vessel, and by the sailors' chests, overwhich you must needs crawl in getting about. At meal-times, andespecially when we indulged in after-dinner chat, we sat about thechests like a parcel of tailors. 

In the middle of all were two square, wooden columns, denominated inmarine architecture "Bowsprit Bitts. " They were about a foot apart, and between them, by a rusty chain, swung the forecastle lamp, burning day and night, and forever casting two long black shadows. Lower down, between the bitts, was a locker, or sailors' pantry, keptin abominable disorder, and sometimes requiring a vigorous cleaningand fumigation. 

All over, the ship was in a most dilapidated condition; but in theforecastle it looked like the hollow of an old tree going to decay. In every direction the wood was damp and discoloured, and here andthere soft and porous. Moreover, it was hacked and hewed withoutmercy, the cook frequently helping himself to splinters forkindling-wood from the bitts and beams. Overhead, every carline wassooty, and here and there deep holes were burned in them, a freak ofsome drunken sailors on a voyage long previous. 

From above, you entered by a plank, with two elects, slanting downfrom the scuttle, which was a mere hole in the deck. There being noslide to draw over in case of emergency, the tarpaulin temporarilyplaced there was little protection from the spray heaved over thebows; so that in anything of a breeze the place was miserably wet. In a squall, the water fairly poured down in sheets like a cascade, swashing about, and afterward spirting up between the chests like thejets of a fountain. 

Such were our accommodations aboard of the Julia; but bad as theywere, we had not the undisputed possession of them. Myriads ofcockroaches, and regiments of rats disputed the place with us. Agreater calamity than this can scarcely befall a vessel in the SouthSeas. 

So warm is the climate that it is almost impossible to get rid ofthem. You may seal up every hatchway, and fumigate the hull till thesmoke forces itself out at the seams, and enough will survive torepeople the ship in an incredibly short period. In some vessels, thecrews of which after a hard fight have given themselves up, as itwere, for lost, the vermin seem to take actual possession, thesailors being mere tenants by sufferance. With Sperm Whalemen, hanging about the Line, as many of them do for a couple of years on astretch, it is infinitely worse than with other vessels. 

As for the Julia, these creatures never had such free and easy timesas they did in her crazy old hull; every chink and cranny swarmedwith them; they did not live among you, but you among them. So truewas this, that the business of eating and drinking was better done inthe dark than in the light of day. 

Concerning the cockroaches, there was an extraordinary phenomenon, forwhich none of us could ever account. 

Every night they had a jubilee. The first symptom was an unusualclustering and humming among the swarms lining the beams overhead, and the inside of the sleeping-places. This was succeeded by aprodigious coming and going on the part of those living out of sightPresently they all came forth; the larger sort racing over the chestsand planks; winged monsters darting to and fro in the air; and thesmall fry buzzing in heaps almost in a state of fusion. 

On the first alarm, all who were able darted on deck; while some ofthe sick who were too feeble, lay perfectly quiet--the distractedvermin running over them at pleasure. The performance lasted someten minutes, during which no hive ever hummed louder. Often it waslamented by us that the time of the visitation could never bepredicted; it was liable to come upon us at any hour of the night, andwhat a relief it was, when it happened to fall in the early part ofthe evening. 

Nor must I forget the rats: they did not forget me. Tame as Trenck'smouse, they stood in their holes peering at you like old grandfathersin a doorway. Often they darted in upon us at meal-times, and nibbledour food. The first time they approached Wymontoo, he was actuallyfrightened; but becoming accustomed to it, he soon got along withthem much better than the rest. With curious dexterity he seized theanimals by their legs, and flung them up the scuttle to find a waterygrave. 

But I have a story of my own to tell about these rats. One day thecabin steward made me a present of some molasses, which I was sochoice of that I kept it hid away in a tin can in the farthest cornerof my bunk.. Faring as we did, this molasses dropped upon a biscuitwas a positive luxury, which I shared with none but the doctor, andthen only in private. And sweet as the treacle was, how could breadthus prepared and eaten in secret be otherwise than pleasant?

One night our precious can ran low, and in canting it over in thedark, something beside the molasses slipped out. How long it had beenthere, kind Providence never revealed; nor were we over anxious toknow; for we hushed up the bare thought as quickly as possible. Thecreature certainly died a luscious death, quite equal to Clarence'sin the butt of Malmsey. 

CHAPTER XI. 

DOCTOR LONG GHOST A WAG--ONE OF HIS CAPERS

GRAVE though he was at times, Doctor Long Ghost was a decided wag. 

Everyone knows what lovers of fun sailors are ashore--afloat, they areabsolutely mad after it. So his pranks were duly appreciated. 

The poor old black cook! Unlashing his hammock for the night, andfinding a wet log fast asleep in it; and then waking in the morningwith his woolly head tarred. Opening his coppers, and finding an oldboot boiling away as saucy as could be, and sometimes cakes of pitchcandying in his oven. 

Baltimore's tribulations were indeed sore; there was no peace for himday nor night. Poor fellow! he was altogether too good-natured. Saywhat they will about easy-tempered people, it is far better, on someaccounts, to have the temper of a wolf. Whoever thought of takingliberties with gruff Black Dan?

The most curious of the doctor's jokes, was hoisting the men aloft bythe foot or shoulder, when they fell asleep on deck during thenight-watches. 

Ascending from the forecastle on one occasion, he found every soulnapping, and forthwith went about his capers. Fastening a rope's endto each sleeper, he rove the lines through a number of blocks, andconducted them all to the windlass; then, by heaving round cheerily, in spite of cries and struggles, he soon had them dangling aloft inall directions by arms and legs. Waked by the uproar, we rushed upfrom below, and found the poor fellows swinging in the moonlight fromthe tops and lower yard-arms, like a parcel of pirates gibbeted atsea by a cruiser. 

Connected with this sort of diversion was another prank of his. Duringthe night some of those on deck would come below to light a pipe, ortake a mouthful of beef and biscuit. Sometimes they fell asleep; andbeing missed directly that anything was to be done, their shipmatesoften amused themselves by running them aloft with a pulley droppeddown the scuttle from the fore-top. 

One night, when all was perfectly still, I lay awake in theforecastle; the lamp was burning low and thick, and swinging from itsblackened beam; and with the uniform motion of the ship, the men inthe bunks rolled slowly from side to side; the hammocks swaying inunison. 

Presently I heard a foot upon the ladder, and looking up, saw a widetrousers' leg. Immediately, Navy Bob, a stout old Triton, stealthilydescended, and at once went to groping in the locker after somethingto eat. 

Supper ended, he proceeded to load his pipe. Now, for a goodcomfortable smoke at sea, there never was a better place than theJulia's forecastle at midnight. To enjoy the luxury, one wants tofall into a kind of dreamy reverie, only known to the children of theweed. And the very atmosphere of the place, laden as it was with thesnores of the sleepers, was inducive of this. No wonder, then, thatafter a while Bob's head sunk upon his breast; presently his hat felloff, the extinguished pipe dropped from his mouth, and the nextmoment he lay out on the chest as tranquil as an infant. 

Suddenly an order was heard on deck, followed by the trampling of feetand the hauling of rigging. The yards were being braced, and soonafter the sleeper was missed: for there was a whispered conferenceover the scuttle. 

Directly a shadow glided across the forecastle and noiselesslyapproached the unsuspecting Bob. It was one of the watch with the endof a rope leading out of sight up the scuttle. Pausing an instant, the sailor pressed softly the chest of his victim, sounding hisslumbers; and then hitching the cord to his ankle, returned to thedeck. 

Hardly was his back turned, when a long limb was thrust from a hammockopposite, and Doctor Long Ghost, leaping forth warily, whipped therope from Bob's ankle, and fastened it like lightning to a greatlumbering chest, the property of the man who had just disappeared. 

Scarcely was the thing done, when lo! with a thundering bound, theclumsy box was torn from its fastenings, and banging from side toside, flew toward the scuttle. Here it jammed; and thinking that Bob, who was as strong as a windlass, was grappling a beam and trying tocut the line, the jokers on deck strained away furiously. On asudden, the chest went aloft, and striking against the mast, flewopen, raining down on the heads of a party the merciless shower ofthings too numerous to mention. 

Of course the uproar roused all hands, and when we hurried on deck, there was the owner of the box, looking aghast at its scatteredcontents, and with one wandering hand taking the altitude of a bumpon his head. 

CHAPTER XII. 

DEATH AND BURIAL OF TWO OF THE CREW

THE mirthfulness which at times reigned among us was in strange andshocking contrast with the situation of some of the invalids. Thus atleast did it seem to me, though not to others. 

But an event occurred about this period, which, in removing by far themost pitiable cases of suffering, tended to make less grating to myfeelings the subsequent conduct of the crew. 

We had been at sea about twenty days, when two of the sick who hadrapidly grown worse, died one night within an hour of each other. 

One occupied a bunk right next to mine, and for several days had notrisen from it. During this period he was often delirious, startingup and glaring around him, and sometimes wildly tossing his arms. 

On the night of his decease, I retired shortly after the middle watchbegan, and waking from a vague dream of horrors, felt somethingclammy resting on me. It was the sick man's hand. Two or three timesduring the evening previous, he had thrust it into my bunk, and I hadquietly removed it; but now I started and flung it from me. The armfell stark and stiff, and I knew that he was dead. 

Waking the men, the corpse was immediately rolled up in the strips ofblanketing upon which it lay, and carried on deck. The mate was thencalled, and preparations made for an instantaneous' burial. Layingthe body out on the forehatch, it was stitched up in one of thehammocks, some "kentledge" being placed at the feet instead of shot. This done, it was borne to the gangway, and placed on a plank laidacross the bulwarks. Two men supported the inside end. By way ofsolemnity, the ship's headway was then stopped by hauling aback themain-top-sail. 

The mate, who was far from being sober, then staggered up, and holdingon to a shroud, gave the word. As the plank tipped, the body slid offslowly, and fell with a splash into the sea. A bubble or two, andnothing more was seen. 

"Brace forward!" The main-yard swung round to its place, and the shipglided on, whilst the corpse, perhaps, was still sinking. 

We had tossed a shipmate to the sharks, but no one would have thoughtit, to have gone among the crew immediately after. The dead man hadbeen a churlish, unsocial fellow, while alive, and no favourite; andnow that he was no more, little thought was bestowed upon him. Allthat was said was concerning the disposal of his chest, which, havingbeen always kept locked, was supposed to contain money. Someonevolunteered to break it open, and distribute its contents, clothingand all, before the captain should demand it. 

While myself and others were endeavouring to dissuade them from this, all started at a cry from the forecastle. There could be no one therebut two of the sick, unable to crawl on deck. We went below, andfound one of them dying on a chest. He had fallen out of his hammockin a fit, and was insensible. The eyes were open and fixed, and hisbreath coming and going convulsively. The men shrunk from him; butthe doctor, taking his hand, held it a few moments in his, andsuddenly letting it fall, exclaimed, "He's gone!" The body wasinstantly borne up the ladder. 

Another hammock was soon prepared, and the dead sailor stitched up asbefore. Some additional ceremony, however, was now insisted upon, and a Bible was called for. But none was to be had, not even a PrayerBook. When this was made known, Antone, a Portuguese, from theCape-de-Verd Islands, stepped up, muttering something over the corpseof his countryman, and, with his finger, described upon the back ofthe hammock the figure of a large cross; whereupon it received thedeath-launch. 

These two men both perished from the proverbial indiscretions ofseamen, heightened by circumstances apparent; but had either of thembeen ashore under proper treatment, he would, in all humanprobability, have recovered. 

Behold here the fate of a sailor! They give him the last toss, and noone asks whose child he was. 

For the rest of that night there was no more sleep. Many stayed ondeck until broad morning, relating to each other those marvelloustales of the sea which the occasion was calculated to call forth. Little as I believed in such things, I could not listen to some ofthese stories unaffected. Above all was I struck by one of thecarpenter's. 

On a voyage to India, they had a fever aboard, which carried offnearly half the crew in the space of a few days. After this the mennever went aloft in the night-time, except in couples. When topsailswere to be reefed, phantoms were seen at the yard-arm ends; and intacking ship, voices called aloud from the tops. The carpenterhimself, going with another man to furl the main-top-gallant-sail in asquall, was nearly pushed from the rigging by an unseen hand; and hisshipmate swore that a wet hammock was flirted in his face. 

Stories like these were related as gospel truths, by those whodeclared themselves eye-witnesses. 

It is a circumstance not generally known, perhaps, that among ignorantseamen, Philanders, or Finns, as they are more commonly called, areregarded with peculiar superstition. For some reason or other, whichI never could get at, they are supposed to possess the gift of secondsight, and the power to wreak supernatural vengeance upon those whooffend them. On this account they have great influence among sailors, and two or three with whom I have sailed at different times werepersons well calculated to produce this sort of impression, at leastupon minds disposed to believe in such things. 

Now, we had one of these sea-prophets aboard; an old, yellow-hairedfellow, who always wore a rude seal-skin cap of his own make, andcarried his tobacco in a large pouch made of the same stuff. Van, aswe called him, was a quiet, inoffensive man, to look at, and, amongsuch a set, his occasional peculiarities had hitherto passed fornothing. At this time, however, he came out with a prediction, whichwas none the less remarkable from its absolute fulfilment, though notexactly in the spirit in which it was given out. 

The night of the burial he laid his hand on the old horseshoe nailedas a charm to the foremast, and solemnly told us that, in less thanthree weeks, not one quarter of our number would remain aboard theship--by that time they would have left her for ever. 

Some laughed; Flash Jack called him an old fool; but among the mengenerally it produced a marked effect. For several days a degree ofquiet reigned among us, and allusions of such a kind were made torecent events, as could be attributed to no other cause than theFinn's omen. 

For my own part, what had lately come to pass was not without itsinfluence. It forcibly brought to mind our really critical condition. Doctor Long Ghost, too, frequently revealed his apprehensions, andonce assured me that he would give much to be safely landed upon anyisland around us. 

Where we were, exactly, no one but the mate seemed to know, norwhither we were going. The captain--a mere cipher--was an invalid inhis cabin; to say nothing more of so many of his men languishing inthe forecastle. 

Our keeping the sea under these circumstances, a matter strange enoughat first, now seemed wholly unwarranted; and added to all was thethought that our fate was absolutely in the hand of the recklessJermin. Were anything to happen to him, we would be left without anavigator, for, according to Jermin himself, he had, from thecommencement of the voyage, always kept the ship's reckoning, thecaptain's nautical knowledge being insufficient. 

But considerations like these, strange as it may seem, seldom or neveroccurred to the crew. They were alive only to superstitious fears;and when, in apparent contradiction to the Finn's prophecy, the sickmen rallied a little, they began to recover their former spirits, andthe recollection of what had occurred insensibly faded from theirminds. In a week's time, the unworthiness of Little Jule as a seavessel, always a subject of jest, now became more so than ever. In theforecastle, Flash Jack, with his knife, often dug into the dank, rotten planks ribbed between us and death, and flung away thesplinters with some sea joke. 

As to the remaining invalids, they were hardly ill enough to occasionany serious apprehension, at least for the present, in the breasts ofsuch thoughtless beings as themselves. And even those who sufferedthe most, studiously refrained from any expression of pain. 

The truth is, that among sailors as a class, sickness at sea is soheartily detested, and the sick so little cared for, that thegreatest invalid generally strives to mask his sufferings. He hasgiven no sympathy to others, and he expects none in return. Theirconduct, in this respect, so opposed to their generous-heartedbehaviour ashore, painfully affects the landsman on his firstintercourse with them as a sailor. 

Sometimes, but seldom, our invalids inveighed against their being keptat sea, where they could be of no service, when they ought to beashore and in the way of recovery. But--"Oh! cheer up--cheer up, myhearties!"--the mate would say. And after this fashion he put a stopto their murmurings. 

But there was one circumstance, to which heretofore I have but barelyalluded, that tended more than anything else to reconcile many totheir situation. This was the receiving regularly, twice every day, acertain portion of Pisco, which was served out at the capstan, by thesteward, in little tin measures called "tots. "

The lively affection seamen have for strong drink is well known; butin the South Seas, where it is so seldom to be had, a thoroughbredsailor deems scarcely any price too dear which will purchase hisdarling "tot. " Nowadays, American whalemen in the Pacific never thinkof carrying spirits as a ration; and aboard of most of them, it isnever served out even in times of the greatest hardships. All Sydneywhalemen, however, still cling to the old custom, and carry it as apart of the regular supplies for the voyage. 

In port, the allowance of Pisco was suspended; with a view, undoubtedly, of heightening the attractions of being out of sight ofland. 

Now, owing to the absence of proper discipline, our sick, in additionto what they took medicinally, often came in for their respective"tots" convivially; and, added to all this, the evening of the lastday of the week was always celebrated by what is styled on board ofEnglish vessels "The Saturday-night bottles. " Two of these were sentdown into the forecastle, just after dark; one for the starboardwatch, and the other for the larboard. 

By prescription, the oldest seaman in each claims the treat as his, and, accordingly, pours out the good cheer and passes it round like alord doing the honours of his table. But the Saturday-night bottleswere not all. The carpenter and cooper, in sea parlance, Chips andBungs, who were the "Cods, " or leaders of the forecastle, in some wayor other, managed to obtain an extra supply, which perpetually keptthem in fine after-dinner spirits, and, moreover, disposed them tolook favourably upon a state of affairs like the present. 

But where were the sperm whales all this time? In good sooth, it madelittle matter where they were, since we were in no condition tocapture them. About this time, indeed, the men came down from themast-heads, where, until now, they had kept up the form of relievingeach other every two hours. They swore they would go there no more. Upon this, the mate carelessly observed that they would soon be wherelook-outs were entirely unnecessary, the whales he had in his eye(though Flash Jack said they were all in his) being so tame that theymade a practice of coming round ships, and scratching their backsagainst them. 

Thus went the world of waters with us, some four weeks or more afterleaving Hannamanoo. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

OUR DESTINATION CHANGED

IT was not long after the death of the two men, that Captain Guy wasreported as fast declining, and in a day or two more, as dying. Thedoctor, who previously had refused to enter the cabin upon anyconsideration, now relented, and paid his old enemy a professionalvisit. 

He prescribed a warm bath, which was thus prepared. The skylight beingremoved, a cask was lowered down into the cabin, and then filled withbuckets of water from the ship's coppers. The cries of the patient, when dipped into his rude bath, were most painful to hear. They atlast laid him on the transom, more dead than alive. 

That evening, the mate was perfectly sober, and coming forward to thewindlass, where we were lounging, summoned aft the doctor, myself, and two or three others of his favourites; when, in the presence ofBembo the Mowree, he spoke to us thus:

"I have something to say to ye, men. There's none but Bembo here asbelongs aft, so I've picked ye out as the best men for'ard to takecounsel with, d'ye see, consarning the ship. The captain's anchor ispretty nigh atrip; I shouldn't wonder if he croaked afore morning. Sowhat's to be done? If we have to sew him up, some of those piratesthere for'ard may take it into their heads to run off with the ship, because there's no one at the tiller. Now, I've detarmined what'sbest to be done; but I don't want to do it unless I've good men toback me, and make things all fair and square if ever we get homeagain. "

We all asked what his plan was. 

"I'll tell ye what it is, men. If the skipper dies, all agree to obeymy orders, and in less than three weeks I'll engage to have fivehundred barrels of sperm oil under hatches: enough to give everymother's son of ye a handful of dollars when we get to Sydney. If yedon't agree to this, ye won't have a farthing coming to ye. "

Doctor Long Ghost at once broke in. He said that such a thing was notto be dreamt of; that if the captain died, the mate was in duty boundto navigate the ship to the nearest civilized port, and deliver herup into an English consul's hands; when, in all probability, after arun ashore, the crew would be sent home. Everything forbade themate's plan. "Still, " said he, assuming an air of indifference, "ifthe men say stick it out, stick it out say I; but in that case, thesooner we get to those islands of yours the better. "

Something more he went on to say; and from the manner in which therest regarded him, it was plain that our fate was in his hands. Itwas finally resolved upon, that if Captain Guy was no better intwenty-four hours, the ship's head should be pointed for the islandof Tahiti. 

This announcement produced a strong sensation--the sick rallied--andthe rest speculated as to what was next to befall us; while thedoctor, without alluding to Guy, congratulated me upon the prospectof soon beholding a place so famous as the island in question. 

The night after the holding of the council, I happened to go on deckin the middle watch, and found the yards braced sharp up on thelarboard tack, with the South East Trades strong on our bow. Thecaptain was no better; and we were off for Tahiti. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

ROPE YARN

WHILE gliding along on our way, I cannot well omit some account of apoor devil we had among us, who went by the name of Rope Yarn, orRopey. 

He was a nondescript who had joined the ship as a landsman. Being soexcessively timid and awkward, it was thought useless to try and makea sailor of him; so he was translated into the cabin as steward; theman previously filling that post, a good seaman, going among the crewand taking his place. But poor Ropey proved quite as clumsy among thecrockery as in the rigging; and one day when the ship was pitching, having stumbled into the cabin with a wooden tureen of soup, hescalded the officers so that they didn't get over it in a week. Uponwhich, he was dismissed, and returned to the forecastle. 

Now, nobody is so heartily despised as a pusillanimous, lazy, good-for-nothing land-lubber; a sailor has no bowels of compassionfor him. Yet, useless as such a character may be in many respects, aship's company is by no means disposed to let him reap any benefitfrom his deficiencies. Regarded in the light of a mechanical power, whenever there is any plain, hard work to be done, he is put to itlike a lever; everyone giving him a pry. 

Then, again, he is set about all the vilest work. Is there a heavy jobat tarring to be done, he is pitched neck and shoulders into atar-barrel, and set to work at it. Moreover, he is made to fetch andcarry like a dog. Like as not, if the mate sends him after hisquadrant, on the way he is met by the captain, who orders him to picksome oakum; and while he is hunting up a bit of rope, a sailor comesalong and wants to know what the deuce he's after, and bids him beoff to the forecastle. 

"Obey the last order, " is a precept inviolable at sea. So theland-lubber, afraid to refuse to do anything, rushes aboutdistracted, and does nothing: in the end receiving a shower of kicksand cuffs from all quarters. 

Added to his other hardships, he is seldom permitted to open his mouthunless spoken to; and then, he might better keep silent. Alas forhim! if he should happen to be anything of a droll; for in an evilhour should he perpetrate a joke, he would never know the last of it. 

The witticisms of others, however, upon himself, must be received inthe greatest good-humour. 

Woe be unto him, if at meal-times he so much as look sideways at thebeef-kid before the rest are helped. 

Then he is obliged to plead guilty to every piece of mischief whichthe real perpetrator refuses to acknowledge; thus taking the place ofthat sneaking rascal nobody, ashore. In short, there is no end to histribulations. 

The land-lubber's spirits often sink, and the first result of hisbeing moody and miserable is naturally enough an utter neglect of histoilet. 

The sailors perhaps ought to make allowances; but heartless as theyare, they do not. No sooner is his cleanliness questioned than theyrise upon him like a mob of the Middle Ages upon a Jew; drag him intothe lee-scuppers, and strip him to the buff. In vain he bawls formercy; in vain calls upon the captain to save him. 

Alas! I say again, for the land-lubber at sea. He is the veriestwretch the watery world over. And such was Bope Tarn; of alllandlubbers, the most lubberly and most miserable. A forlorn, stunted, hook-visaged mortal he was too; one of those whom you knowat a glance to have been tried hard and long in the furnace ofaffliction. His face was an absolute puzzle; though sharp and sallow, it had neither the wrinkles of age nor the smoothness of youth; sothat for the soul of me, I could hardly tell whether he wastwenty-five or fifty. 

But to his history. In his better days, it seems he had been ajourneyman baker in London, somewhere about Holborn; and on Sundayswore a Hue coat and metal buttons, and spent his afternoons in atavern, smoking his pipe and drinking his ale like a free and easyjourneyman baker that he was. But this did not last long; for anintermeddling old fool was the ruin of him. He was told that Londonmight do very well for elderly gentlemen and invalids; but for a ladof spirit, Australia was the Land of Promise. In a dark day Ropeywound up his affairs and embarked. 

Arriving in Sydney with a small capital, and after a while waxing snugand comfortable by dint of hard kneading, he took unto himself awife; and so far as she was concerned, might then have gone into thecountry and retired; for she effectually did his business. In short, the lady worked him woe in heart and pocket; and in the end, ran offwith his till and his foreman. Ropey went to the sign of the Pipe andTankard; got fuddled; and over his fifth pot meditated suicide--anintention carried out; for the next day he shipped as landsman aboardthe Julia, South Seaman. 

The ex-baker would have fared far better, had it not been for hisheart, which was soft and underdone. A kind word made a fool of him;and hence most of the scrapes he got into. Two or three wags, awareof his infirmity, used to "draw him out" in conversation whenever themost crabbed and choleric old seamen were present. 

To give an instance. The watch below, just waked from their sleep, areall at breakfast; and Ropey, in one corner, is disconsolatelypartaking of its delicacies. "Now, sailors newly waked are nocherubs; and therefore not a word is spoken, everybody munching hisbiscuit, grim and unshaven. At this juncture an affable-lookingscamp--Flash Jack--crosses the forecastle, tin can in hand, and seatshimself beside the land-lubber. 

"Hard fare this, Ropey, " he begins; "hard enough, too, for them that'sknown better and lived in Lun'nun. I say now, Ropey, s'posing youwere back to Holborn this morning, what would you have for breakfast, eh?"

"Have for breakfast!" cried Ropey in a rapture. "Don't speak of it!"

"What ails that fellow?" here growled an old sea-bear, turning roundsavagely. 

"Oh, nothing, nothing, " said Jack; and then, leaning over to RopeYarn, he bade him go on, but speak lower. 

"Well, then, " said he, in a smuggled tone, his eyes lighting up liketwo lanterns, "well, then, I'd go to Mother Moll's that makes thegreat muffins: I'd go there, you know, and cock my foot on the 'ob, and call for a noggin o' somethink to begin with. "

"What then, Ropey?"

"Why then, Flashy, " continued the poor victim, unconsciously warmingwith his theme: "why then, I'd draw my chair up and call for Betty, the gal wot tends to customers. Betty, my dear, says I, you lookscharmin' this mornin'; give me a nice rasher of bacon and h'eggs, Betty my love; and I wants a pint of h'ale, and three nice h'otmuffins and butter--and a slice of Cheshire; and Betty, I wants--"

"A shark-steak, and be hanged to you!" roared Black Dan, with an oath. Whereupon, dragged over the chests, the ill-starred fellow ispummelled on deck. 

I always made a point of befriending poor Ropey when I could; and, forthis reason, was a great favourite of his. 

CHAPTER XV. 

CHIPS AND BUNGS

BOUND into port, Chips and Bungs increased their devotion to thebottle; and, to the unspeakable envy of the rest, these jollycompanions--or "the Partners, " as the men called them--rolled aboutdeck, day after day, in the merriest mood imaginable. 

But jolly as they were in the main, two more discreet tipplers itwould be hard to find. No one ever saw them take anything, exceptwhen the regular allowance was served out by the steward; and to makethem quite sober and sensible, you had only to ask them how theycontrived to keep otherwise. Some time after, however, their secretleaked out. 

The casks of Pisco were kept down the after-hatchway, which, for thisreason, was secured with bar and padlock. The cooper, nevertheless, from time to time, effected a burglarious entry, by descending intothe fore-hold; and then, at the risk of being jammed to death, crawling along over a thousand obstructions, to where the casks werestowed. 

On the first expedition, the only one to be got at lay among others, upon its bilge with the bung-hole well over. With a bit of iron hoop, suitably bent, and a good deal of prying and punching, the bung wasforced in; and then the cooper's neck-handkerchief, attached to theend of the hoop, was drawn in and out--the absorbed liquor beingdeliberately squeezed into a small bucket. 

Bungs was a man after a barkeeper's own heart. Drinking steadily, until just manageably tipsy, he contrived to continue so; gettingneither more nor less inebriated, but, to use his own phrase, remaining "just about right. " When in this interesting state, he hada free lurch in his gait, a queer way of hitching up his waistbands, looked unnecessarily steady at you when speaking, and for the rest, was in very tolerable spirits. At these times, moreover, he wasexceedingly patriotic; and in a most amusing way, frequently showedhis patriotism whenever he happened to encounter Dunk, agood-natured, square-faced Dane, aboard. 

It must be known here, by the bye, that the cooper had a true sailoradmiration for Lord Nelson. But he entertained a very erroneous ideaof the personal appearance of the hero. Not content with deprivinghim of an eye and an arm, he stoutly maintained that he had also losta leg in one of his battles. Under this impression, he sometimeshopped up to Dunk with one leg curiously locked behind him into hisright arm, at the same time closing an eye. 

In this attitude he would call upon him to look up, and behold the manwho gave his countrymen such a thrashing at Copenhagen. "Look you, Dunk, " says he, staggering about, and winking hard with one eye tokeep the other shut, "Look you; one man--hang me, half a man--withone leg, one arm, one eye--hang me, with only a piece of a carcase, flogged your whole shabby nation. Do you deny it you lubber?"

The Dane was a mule of a man, and understanding but little English, seldom made anything of a reply; so the cooper generally dropped hisleg, and marched off, with the air of a man who despised sayinganything further. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

WE ENCOUNTER A GALE

THE mild blue weather we enjoyed after leaving the Marquesas graduallychanged as we ran farther south and approached Tahiti. In thesegenerally tranquil seas, the wind sometimes blows with greatviolence; though, as every sailor knows, a spicy gale in the tropiclatitudes of the Pacific is far different from a tempest in thehowling North Atlantic. We soon found ourselves battling with thewaves, while the before mild Trades, like a woman roused, blewfiercely, but still warmly, in our face. 

For all this, the mate carried sail without stint; and as for bravelittle Jule, she stood up to it well; and though once in a whilefloored in the trough of a sea, sprang to her keel again and showedplay. Every old timber groaned--every spar buckled--every chafed cordstrained; and yet, spite of all, she plunged on her way like a racer. Jermin, sea-jockey that he was, sometimes stood in the fore-chains, with the spray every now and then dashing over him, and shouting out, "Well done, Jule--dive into it, sweetheart. Hurrah!"

One afternoon there was a mighty queer noise aloft, which set the menrunning in every direction. It was the main-t'-gallant-mast. Crash!it broke off just above the cap, and held there by the rigging, dashed with every roll from side to side, with all the hamper thatbelonged to it. The yard hung by a hair, and at every pitch, thumpedagainst the cross-trees; while the sail streamed in ribbons, and theloose ropes coiled, and thrashed the air, like whip-lashes. "Standfrom under!" and down came the rattling blocks, like so many shot. The yard, with a snap and a plunge, went hissing into the sea, disappeared, and shot its full length out again. The crest of a greatwave then broke over it--the ship rushed by--and we saw the stick nomore. 

While this lively breeze continued, Baltimore, our old black cook, wasin great tribulation. 

Like most South Seamen, the Julia's "caboose, " or cook-house, wasplanted on the larboard side of the forecastle. Under such a press ofcanvas, and with the heavy sea running the barque, diving her bowsunder, now and then shipped green glassy waves, which, breaking overthe head-rails, fairly deluged that part of the ship, and washedclean aft. The caboose-house--thought to be fairly lashed down to itsplace--served as a sort of breakwater to the inundation. 

About these times, Baltimore always wore what he called his "galesuit, " among other things comprising a Sou'-wester and a huge pair ofwell-anointed sea-boots, reaching almost to his knees. Thus equippedfor a ducking or a drowning, as the case might be, our culinaryhigh-priest drew to the slides of his temple, and performed his sootyrites in secret. 

So afraid was the old man of being washed overboard that he actuallyfastened one end of a small line to his waistbands, and coiling therest about him, made use of it as occasion required. When engagedoutside, he unwound the cord, and secured one end to a ringbolt inthe deck; so that if a chance sea washed him off his feet, it coulddo nothing more. 

One evening just as he was getting supper, the Julia reared up on herstern like a vicious colt, and when she settled again forward, fairlydished a tremendous sea. Nothing could withstand it. One side of therotten head-bulwarks came in with a crash; it smote the caboose, toreit from its moorings, and after boxing it about, dashed it againstthe windlass, where it stranded. The water then poured along the decklike a flood rolling over and over, pots, pans, and kettles, and evenold Baltimore himself, who went breaching along like a porpoise. 

Striking the taffrail, the wave subsided, and washing from side toside, left the drowning cook high and dry on the after-hatch: hisextinguished pipe still between his teeth, and almost bitten in two. 

The few men on deck having sprung into the main-rigging, sailor-like, did nothing but roar at his calamity. 

The same night, our flying-jib-boom snapped off like a pipe-stem, andour spanker-gaff came down by the run. 

By the following morning, the wind in a great measure had gone down;the sea with it; and by noon we had repaired our damages as well aswe could, and were sailing along as pleasantly as ever. 

But there was no help for the demolished bulwarks; we had nothing toreplace them; and so, whenever it breezed again, our dauntless craftwent along with her splintered prow dripping, but kicking up herfleet heels just as high as before. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

THE CORAL ISLANDS

HOW far we sailed to the westward after leaving the Marquesas, or whatmight have been our latitude and longitude at any particular time, orhow many leagues we voyaged on our passage to Tahiti, are mattersabout which, I am sorry to say, I cannot with any accuracy enlightenthe reader. Jermin, as navigator, kept our reckoning; and, as hintedbefore, kept it all to himself. At noon, he brought out his quadrant, a rusty old thing, so odd-looking that it might have belonged to anastrologer. 

Sometimes, when rather flustered from his potations, he wentstaggering about deck, instrument to eye, looking all over for thesun--a phenomenon which any sober observer might have seen rightoverhead. How upon earth he contrived, on some occasions, to settlehis latitude, is more than I can tell. The longitude he must eitherhave obtained by the Rule of Three, or else by special revelation. Notthat the chronometer in the cabin was seldom to be relied on, or wasany ways fidgety; quite the contrary; it stood stock-still; and bythat means, no doubt, the true Greenwich time--at the period ofstopping, at least--was preserved to a second. 

The mate, however, in addition to his "Dead Reckoning, " pretended toascertain his meridian distance from Bow Bells by an occasional lunarobservation. This, I believe, consists in obtaining with the properinstruments the angular distance between the moon and some one of thestars. The operation generally requires two observers to take sights, and at one and the same time. 

Now, though the mate alone might have been thought well calculated forthis, inasmuch as he generally saw things double, the doctor wasusually called upon to play a sort of second quadrant to Jermin'sfirst; and what with the capers of both, they used to furnish a gooddeal of diversion. The mate's tremulous attempts to level hisinstrument at the star he was after, were comical enough. For my ownpart, when he did catch sight of it, I hardly knew how he managed toseparate it from the astral host revolving in his own brain. 

However, by hook or by crook, he piloted us along; and before manydays, a fellow sent aloft to darn a rent in the fore-top-sail, threwhis hat into the air, and bawled out "Land, ho!"

Land it was; but in what part of the South Seas, Jermin alone knew, and some doubted whether even he did. But no sooner was theannouncement made, than he came running on deck, spy-glass in hand, and clapping it to his eye, turned round with the air of a manreceiving indubitable assurance of something he was quite certain ofbefore. The land was precisely that for which he had been steering;and, with a wind, in less than twenty-four hours we would sightTahiti. What he said was verified. 

The island turned out to be one of the Pomotu or Low Group--sometimescalled the Coral Islands--perhaps the most remarkable and interestingin the Pacific. Lying to the east of Tahiti, the nearest are within aday's sail of that place. 

They are very numerous; mostly small, low, and level; sometimeswooded, but always covered with verdure. Many are crescent-shaped;others resemble a horse-shoe in figure. These last are nothing morethan narrow circles of land surrounding a smooth lagoon, connected bya single opening with the sea. Some of the lagoons, said to havesubterranean outlets, have no visible ones; the inclosing island, insuch cases, being a complete zone of emerald. Other lagoons still, are girdled by numbers of small, green islets, very near to eachother. 

The origin of the entire group is generally ascribed to the coralinsect. 

According to some naturalists, this wonderful little creature, commencing its erections at the bottom of the sea, after the lapse ofcenturies, carries them up to the surface, where its labours cease. Here, the inequalities of the coral collect all floating bodies;forming, after a time, a soil, in which the seeds carried thither bybirds germinate, and cover the whole with vegetation. Here and there, all over this archipelago, numberless naked, detached coralformations are seen, just emerging, as it were from the ocean. Thesewould appear to be islands in the very process of creation--at anyrate, one involuntarily concludes so, on beholding them. 

As far as I know, there are but few bread-fruit trees in any part ofthe Pomotu group. In many places the cocoa-nut even does not grow;though, in others, it largely flourishes. Consequently, some of theislands are altogether uninhabited; others support but a singlefamily; and in no place is the population very large. In somerespects the natives resemble the Tahitians: their language, too, isvery similar. The people of the southeasterly clusters--concerningwhom, however, but little is known--have a bad name as cannibals; andfor that reason their hospitality is seldom taxed by the mariner. 

Within a few years past, missionaries from the Society group havesettled among the Leeward Islands, where the natives have treatedthem kindly. Indeed, nominally, many of these people are nowChristians; and, through the political influence of theirinstructors, no doubt, a short time since came tinder the allegianceof Pomaree, the Queen of Tahiti; with which island they alwayscarried on considerable intercourse. 

The Coral Islands are principally visited by the pearl-shellfishermen, who arrive in small schooners, carrying not more than fiveor six men. 

For a long while the business was engrossed by Merenhout, the FrenchConsul at Tahiti, but a Dutchman by birth, who, in one year, is saidto have sent to France fifty thousand dollars' worth of shells. Theoysters are found in the lagoons, and about the reefs; and, forhalf-a-dozen nails a day, or a compensation still less, the nativesare hired to dive after them. 

A great deal of cocoa-nut oil is also obtained in various places. Someof the uninhabited islands are covered with dense groves; and theungathered nuts which have fallen year after year, lie upon theground in incredible quantities. Two or three men, provided with thenecessary apparatus for trying out the oil, will, in the course of aweek or two, obtain enough to load one of the large sea-canoes. 

Cocoa-nut oil is now manufactured in different parts of the SouthSeas, and forms no small part of the traffic carried on with tradingvessels. A considerable quantity is annually exported from theSociety Islands to Sydney. It is used in lamps and for machinery, being much cheaper than the sperm, and, for both purposes, betterthan the right-whale oil. They bottle it up in large bamboos, six oreight feet long; and these form part of the circulating medium ofTahiti. 

To return to the ship. The wind dying away, evening came on before wedrew near the island. But we had it in view during the wholeafternoon. 

It was small and round, presenting one enamelled level, free fromtrees, and did not seem four feet above the water. Beyond it wasanother and larger island, about which a tropical sunset was throwingits glories; flushing all that part of the heavens, and making itflame like a vast dyed oriel illuminated. 

The Trades scarce filled our swooning sails; the air was languid withthe aroma of a thousand strange, flowering shrubs. Upon inhaling it, one of the sick, who had recently shown symptoms of scurvy, cried outin pain, and was carried below. This is no unusual effect in suchinstances. 

On we glided, within less than a cable's length of the shore which wasmargined with foam that sparkled all round. Within, nestled thestill, blue lagoon. No living thing was seen, and, for aught weknew, we might have been the first mortals who had ever beheld thespot. The thought was quickening to the fancy; nor could I helpdreaming of the endless grottoes and galleries, far below the reach ofthe mariner's lead. 

And what strange shapes were lurking there! Think of those archcreatures, the mermaids, chasing each other in and out of the coralcells, and catching their long hair in the coral twigs!

CHAPTER XVIII. 

TAHITI

AT early dawn of the following morning we saw the Peaks of Tahiti. Inclear weather they may be seen at the distance of ninety miles. 

"Hivarhoo!" shouted Wymontoo, overjoyed, and running out upon thebowsprit when the land was first faintly descried in the distance. But when the clouds floated away, and showed the three peaks standinglike obelisks against the sky; and the bold shore undulating alongthe horizon, the tears gushed from his eyes. Poor fellow! It was notHivarhoo. Green Hivarhoo was many a long league off. 

Tahiti is by far the most famous island in the South Seas; indeed, avariety of causes has made it almost classic. Its natural featuresalone distinguish it from the surrounding groups. Two round and loftypromontories, whose mountains rise nine thousand feet above the levelof the ocean, are connected by a low, narrow isthmus; the whole beingsome one hundred miles in circuit. From the great central peaks ofthe larger peninsula--Orohena, Aorai, and Pirohitee--the land radiateson all sides to the sea in sloping green ridges. Between these arebroad and shadowy valleys--in aspect, each a Tempe--watered with finestreams, and thickly wooded. Unlike many of the other islands, thereextends nearly all round Tahiti a belt of low, alluvial soil, teemingwith the richest vegetation. Here, chiefly, the natives dwell. 

Seen from the sea, the prospect is magnificent. It is one mass ofshaded tints of green, from beach to mountain top; endlesslydiversified with valleys, ridges, glens, and cascades. Over theridges, here and there, the loftier peaks fling their shadows, andfar down the valleys. At the head of these, the waterfalls flash outinto the sunlight, as if pouring through vertical bowers of verdure. Such enchantment, too, breathes over the whole, that it seems a fairyworld, all fresh and blooming from the hand of the Creator. 

Upon a near approach, the picture loses not its attractions. It is noexaggeration to say that, to a European of any sensibility, who, forthe first time, wanders back into these valleys--away from the hauntsof the natives--the ineffable repose and beauty of the landscape issuch, that every object strikes him like something seen in a dream;and for a time he almost refuses to believe that scenes like theseshould have a commonplace existence. No wonder that the Frenchbestowed upon the island the appellation of the New Cytherea. "Often, " says De Bourgainville, "I thought I was walking in theGarden of Eden. "

Nor, when first discovered, did the inhabitants of this charmingcountry at all diminish the wonder and admiration of the voyager. Their physical beauty and amiable dispositions harmonized completelywith the softness of their clime. In truth, everything about them wascalculated to awaken the liveliest interest. Glance at their civiland religious institutions. To their king, divine rights were paid;while for poetry, their mythology rivalled that of ancient Greece. 

Of Tahiti, earlier and more full accounts were given, than of anyother island in Polynesia; and this is the reason why it stillretains so strong a hold on the sympathies of all readers of SouthSea voyages. The journals of its first visitors, containing, as theydid, such romantic descriptions of a country and people beforeunheard of, produced a marked sensation throughout Europe; and whenthe first Tahitiana were carried thither, Omai in London, andAotooroo in Paris, were caressed by nobles, scholars, and ladies. 

In addition to all this, several eventful occurrences, more or lessconnected with Tahiti, have tended to increase its celebrity. Overtwo centuries ago, Quiros, the Spaniard, is supposed to have touchedat the island; and at intervals, Wallis, Byron, Cook, DeBourgainville, Vancouver, Le Perouse, and other illustriousnavigators refitted their vessels in its harbours. Here the famousTransit of Venus was observed, in 1769. Here the memorable mutiny ofthe Bounty afterwards had its origin. It was to the pagans of Tahitithat the first regularly constituted Protestant missionaries weresent; and from their shores also, have sailed successive missions tothe neighbouring islands. 

These, with other events which might be mentioned, have united inkeeping up the first interest which the place awakened; and therecent proceedings of the French have more than ever called forth thesympathies of the public. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

A SURPRISE--MORE ABOUT BEMBO

THE sight of the island was right welcome. Going into harbour after acruise is always joyous enough, and the sailor is apt to indulge inall sorts of pleasant anticipations. But to us, the occasion washeightened by many things peculiar to our situation. 

Since steering for the land, our prospects had been much talked over. By many it was supposed that, should the captain leave the ship, thecrew were no longer bound by her articles. This was the opinion ofour forecastle Cokes; though, probably, it would not have beensanctioned by the Marine Courts of Law. At any rate, such was thestate of both vessel and crew that, whatever might be the event, along stay, and many holidays in Tahiti, were confidently predicted. 

Everybody was in high spirits. The sick, who had been improving day byday since the change in our destination, were on deck, and leaningover the bulwarks; some all animation, and others silently admiringan object unrivalled for its stately beauty--Tahiti from the sea. 

The quarter-deck, however, furnished a marked contrast to what wasgoing on at the other end of the ship. The Mowree was there, asusual, scowling by himself; and Jermin walked to and fro in deepthought, every now and then looking to windward, or darting into thecabin and quickly returning. 

With all our light sails wooingly spread, we held on our way, until, with the doctor's glass, Papeetee, the village metropolis of Tahiti, came into view. Several ships were descried lying in the harbour, andamong them, one which loomed up black and large; her two rows ofteeth proclaiming a frigate. This was the Reine Blanche, last fromthe Marquesas, and carrying at the fore the flag of Rear-Admiral DuPetit Thouars. Hardly had we made her out, when the booming of herguns came over the water. She was firing a salute, which afterwardsturned out to be in honour of a treaty; or rather--as far as thenatives were concerned--a forced cession of Tahiti to the French, that morning concluded. 

The cannonading had hardly died away, when Jermin's voice was heardgiving an order so unexpected that everyone started. "Stand by tohaul back the main-yard!"

"What's that mean?" shouted the men, "are we not going into port?"

"Tumble after here, and no words!" cried the mate; and in a moment themain-yard swung round, when, with her jib-boom pointing out to sea, the Julia lay as quiet as a duck. We all looked blank--what was tocome next?

Presently the steward made his appearance, carrying a mattress, whichhe spread out in the stern-sheets of the captain's boat; two or threechests, and other things belonging to his master, were similarlydisposed of. 

This was enough. A slight hint suffices for a sailor. 

Still adhering to his resolution to keep the ship at sea in spite ofeverything, the captain, doubtless, intended to set himself ashore, leaving the vessel, under the mate, to resume her voyage at once; butafter a certain period agreed upon, to touch at the island, and takehim off. All this, of course, could easily be done withoutapproaching any nearer the land with the Julia than we now were. Invalid whaling captains often adopt a plan like this; but, in thepresent instance, it was wholly unwarranted; and, everythingconsidered, at war with the commonest principles of prudence andhumanity. And, although, on Guy's part, this resolution showed morehardihood than he had ever been given credit for, it, at the sametime, argued an unaccountable simplicity, in supposing that such acrew would, in any way, submit to the outrage. 

It was soon made plain that we were right in our suspicions; and themen became furious. The cooper and carpenter volunteered to head amutiny forthwith; and while Jermin was below, four or five rushed aftto fasten down the cabin scuttle; others, throwing down themain-braces, called out to the rest to lend a hand, and fill away forthe land. All this was done in an instant; and things were lookingcritical, when Doctor Long Ghost and myself prevailed upon them towait a while, and do nothing hastily; there was plenty of time, andthe ship was completely in our power. 

While the preparations were still going on in the cabin, we musteredthe men together, and went into counsel upon the forecastle. 

It was with much difficulty that we could bring these rash spirits toa calm consideration of the case. But the doctor's influence at lastbegan to tell; and, with a few exceptions, they agreed to be guidedby him; assured that, if they did so, the ship would eventually bebrought to her anchors without anyone getting into trouble. Stillthey told us, up and down, that if peaceable means failed, they wouldseize Little Jule, and carry her into Papeetee, if they all swung forit; but, for the present, the captain should have his own way. 

By this time everything was ready; the boat was lowered and brought tothe gangway; and the captain was helped on deck by the mate andsteward. It was the first time we had seen him in more than twoweeks, and he was greatly altered. As if anxious to elude every eye, a broad-brimmed Payata hat was pulled down over his brow; so that hisface was only visible when the brim flapped aside. By a sling, riggedfrom the main-yard, the cook and Bembo now assisted in lowering himinto the boat. As he went moaning over the side, he must have heardthe whispered maledictions of his crew. 

While the steward was busy adjusting matters in the boat, the mate, after a private interview with the Mowree, turned round abruptly, andtold us that he was going ashore with the captain, to return as soonas possible. In his absence, Bembo, as next in rank, would command;there being nothing to do but keep the ship at a safe distance fromthe land. He then sprang into the boat, and, with only the cook andsteward as oarsmen, steered for the shore. 

Guy's thus leaving the ship in the men's hands, contrary to the mate'sadvice, was another evidence of his simplicity; for at thisparticular juncture, had neither the doctor nor myself been aboard, there is no telling what they might have done. 

For the nonce, Bembo was captain; and, so far as mere seamanship wasconcerned, he was as competent to command as anyone. In truth, abetter seaman never swore. This accomplishment, by the bye, togetherwith a surprising familiarity with most nautical names and phrases, comprised about all the English he knew. 

Being a harpooner, and, as such, having access to the cabin, this man, though not yet civilized, was, according to sea usages, which know noexceptions, held superior to the sailors; and therefore nothing wassaid against his being left in charge of the ship; nor did itoccasion any surprise. 

Some additional account must be given of Bembo. In the first place, hewas far from being liked. A dark, moody savage, everybody but themate more or less distrusted or feared him. Nor were these feelingsunreciprocated. Unless duty called, he seldom went among the crew. Hard stories too were told about him; something, in particular, concerning an hereditary propensity to kill men and eat them. True, hecame from a race of cannibals; but that was all that was known to acertainty. 

Whatever unpleasant ideas were connected with the Mowree, hispersonal appearance no way lessened them. Unlike most of hiscountrymen, he was, if anything, below the ordinary height; but then, he was all compact, and under his swart, tattooed skin, the musclesworked like steel rods. Hair, crisp and coal-black, curled overshaggy brows, and ambushed small, intense eyes, always on the glare. In short, he was none of your effeminate barbarians. 

Previous to this, he had been two or three voyages in Sydney whalemen;always, however, as in the present instance, shipping at the Bay ofIslands, and receiving his discharge there on the homeward-boundpassage. In this way, his countrymen frequently enter on board thecolonial whaling vessels. 

There was a man among us who had sailed with the Mowree on his firstvoyage, and he told me that he had not changed a particle since then. 

Some queer things this fellow told me. The following is one of hisstories. I give it for what it is worth; premising, however, thatfrom what I know of Bembo, and the foolhardy, dare-devil featssometimes performed in the sperm-whale fishery, I believe in itssubstantial truth. 

As may be believed, Bembo was a wild one after a fish; indeed, all NewZealanders engaged in this business are; it seems to harmonizesweetly with their blood-thirsty propensities. At sea, the bestEnglish they speak is the South Seaman's slogan in lowering away, "Adead whale, or a stove boat!" Game to the marrow, these fellows aregenerally selected for harpooners; a post in which a nervous, timidman would be rather out of his element. 

In darting, the harpooner, of course, stands erect in the head of theboat, one knee braced against a support. But Bembo disdained this;and was always pulled up to his fish, balancing himself right on thegunwale. 

But to my story. One morning, at daybreak, they brought him up to alarge, long whale. He darted his harpoon, and missed; and the fishsounded. After a while, the monster rose again, about a mile off, andthey made after him. But he was frightened, or "gallied, " as theycall it; and noon came, and the boat was still chasing him. Inwhaling, as long as the fish is in sight, and no matter what may havebeen previously undergone, there is no giving up, except when nightcomes; and nowadays, when whales are so hard to be got, frequentlynot even then. At last, Bembo's whale was alongside for the secondtime. He darted both harpoons; but, as sometimes happens to the bestmen, by some unaccountable chance, once more missed. Though it iswell known that such failures will happen at times, they, nevertheless, occasion the bitterest disappointment to a boat's crew, generally expressed in curses both loud and deep. And no wonder. Letany man pull with might and main for hours and hours together, undera burning sun; and if it do not make him a little peevish, he is nosailor. 

The taunts of the seamen may have maddened the Mowree; however it was, no sooner was he brought up again, than, harpoon in hand, he boundedupon the whale's back, and for one dizzy second was seen there. Thenext, all was foam and fury, and both were out of sight. The mensheered off, flinging overboard the line as fast as they could; whileahead, nothing was seen but a red whirlpool of blood and brine. 

Presently, a dark object swam out; the line began to straighten; thensmoked round the loggerhead, and, quick as thought, the boat spedlike an arrow through the water. They were "fast, " and the whale wasrunning. 

Where was the Mowree? His brown hand was on the boat's gunwale; and hewas hauled aboard in the very midst of the mad bubbles that burstunder the bows. 

Such a man, or devil, if you will, was Bembo. 

CHAPTER XX. 

THE ROUND ROBIN--VISITORS FROM SHORE

AFTER the captain left, the land-breeze died away; and, as is usualabout these islands, toward noon it fell a dead calm. There wasnothing to do but haul up the courses, run down the jib, and lay androll upon the swells. The repose of the elements seemed tocommunicate itself to the men; and for a time there was a lull. 

Early in the afternoon, the mate, having left the captain at Papeetee, returned to the ship. According to the steward, they were to goashore again right after dinner with the remainder of Guy's effects. 

On gaining the deck, Jermin purposely avoided us and went belowwithout saying a word. Meanwhile, Long Ghost and I laboured hard todiffuse the right spirit among the crew; impressing upon them that alittle patience and management would, in the end, accomplish all thattheir violence could; and that, too, without making a serious matterof it. 

For my own part, I felt that I was under a foreign flag; that anEnglish consul was close at hand, and that sailors seldom obtainjustice. It was best to be prudent. Still, so much did I sympathizewith the men, so far, at least, as their real grievances wereconcerned; and so convinced was I of the cruelty and injustice of whatCaptain Guy seemed bent upon, that if need were, I stood ready toraise a hand. 

In spite of all we could do, some of them again became mostrefractory, breathing nothing but downright mutiny. When we wentbelow to dinner these fellows stirred up such a prodigious tumultthat the old hull fairly echoed. Many, and fierce too, were thespeeches delivered, and uproarious the comments of the sailors. Amongothers Long Jim, or--as the doctor afterwards called him--LacedaemonianJim, rose in his place, and addressed the forecastle parliament in thefollowing strain:

"Look ye, Britons! if after what's happened, this here craft goes tosea with us, we are no men; and that's the way to say it. Speak theword, my livelies, and I'll pilot her in. I've been to Tahiti beforeand I can do it. " Whereupon, he sat down amid a universal pounding ofchest-lids, and cymbaling of tin pans; the few invalids, who, as yet, had not been actively engaged with the rest, now taking part in theapplause, creaking their bunk-boards and swinging their hammocks. Cries also were heard, of "Handspikes and a shindy!" "Outstun-sails!" "Hurrah!"

Several now ran on deck, and, for the moment, I thought it was allover with us; but we finally succeeded in restoring some degree ofquiet. 

At last, by way of diverting their thoughts, I proposed that a "RoundRobin" should be prepared and sent ashore to the consul by Baltimore, the cook. The idea took mightily, and I was told to set about it atonce. On turning to the doctor for the requisite materials, he toldme he had none; there was not a fly-leaf, even in any of his books. So, after great search, a damp, musty volume, entitled "A History ofthe most Atrocious and Bloody Piracies, " was produced, and its tworemaining blank leaves being torn out, were by help of a little pitchlengthened into one sheet. For ink, some of the soot over the lampwas then mixed with water, by a fellow of a literary turn; and animmense quill, plucked from a distended albatross' wing, which, nailed against the bowsprit bitts, had long formed an ornament of theforecastle, supplied a pen. 

Making use of the stationery thus provided, I indited, upon achest-lid, a concise statement of our grievances; concluding with theearnest hope that the consul would at once come off, and see howmatters stood for himself. Eight beneath the note was described thecircle about which the names were to be written; the great object ofa Round Robin being to arrange the signatures in such a way that, although they are all found in a ring, no man can be picked out asthe leader of it. 

Few among them had any regular names; many answering to some familiartitle, expressive of a personal trait; or oftener still, to the nameof the place from which they hailed; and in one or two cases wereknown by a handy syllable or two, significant of nothing inparticular but the men who bore them. Some, to be sure, had, for thesake of formality, shipped under a feigned cognomen, or "Purser'sname"; these, however, were almost forgotten by themselves; and so, to give the document an air of genuineness, it was decided that everyman's name should be put down as it went among the crew. 

It is due to the doctor to say that the circumscribed device was his. 

Folded, and sealed with a drop of tar, the Round Robin was directed to"The English Consul, Tahiti"; and, handed to the cook, was by himdelivered into that gentleman's hands as soon as the mate wentashore. 

On the return of the boat, sometime after dark, we learned a good dealfrom old Baltimore, who, having been allowed to run about as much ashe pleased, had spent his time gossiping. 

Owing to the proceedings of the French, everything in Tahiti was in anuproar. Pritchard, the missionary consul, was absent in England; buthis place was temporarily filled by one Wilson, an educated whiteman, born on the island, and the son of an old missionary of thatname still living. 

With natives and foreigners alike, Wilson the younger was exceedinglyunpopular, being held an unprincipled and dissipated man, a characterverified by his subsequent conduct. Pritchard's selecting a man likethis to attend to the duties of his office, had occasioned generaldissatisfaction ashore. 

Though never in Europe or America, the acting consul had been severalvoyages to Sydney in a schooner belonging to the mission; andtherefore our surprise was lessened, when Baltimore told us, that heand Captain Guy were as sociable as could be--old acquaintances, infact; and that the latter had taken up his quarters at Wilson'shouse. For us this boded ill. 

The mate was now assailed by a hundred questions as to what was goingto be done with us. His only reply was, that in the morning theconsul would pay us a visit, and settle everything. 

After holding our ground off the harbour during the night, in themorning a shore boat, manned by natives, was seen coming off. In itwere Wilson and another white man, who proved to be a Doctor Johnson, an Englishman, and a resident physician of Papeetee. 

Stopping our headway as they approached, Jermin advanced to thegangway to receive them. No sooner did the consul touch the deck, than he gave us a specimen of what he was. 

"Mr. Jermin, " he cried loftily, and not deigning to notice therespectful salutation of the person addressed, "Mr. Jermin, tackship, and stand off from the land. "

Upon this, the men looked hard at him, anxious to see what sort of alooking "cove" he was. Upon inspection, he turned out to be anexceedingly minute "cove, " with a viciously pugged nose, and adecidedly thin pair of legs. There was nothing else noticeable abouthim. Jermin, with ill-assumed suavity, at once obeyed the order, andthe ship's head soon pointed out to sea. 

Now, contempt is as frequently produced at first sight as love; andthus was it with respect to Wilson. No one could look at him withoutconceiving a strong dislike, or a cordial desire to entertain such afeeling the first favourable opportunity. There was such anintolerable air of conceit about this man that it was almost as muchas one could do to refrain from running up and affronting him. 

"So the counsellor is come, " exclaimed Navy Bob, who, like all therest, invariably styled him thus, much to mine and the doctor'sdiversion. "Ay, " said another, "and for no good, I'll be bound. "

Such were some of the observations made, as Wilson and the mate wentbelow conversing. 

But no one exceeded the cooper in the violence with which he inveighedagainst the ship and everything connected with her. Swearing like atrooper, he called the main-mast to witness that, if he (Bungs) everagain went out of sight of land in the Julia, he prayed Heaven that afate might be his--altogether too remarkable to be here related. 

Much had he to say also concerning the vileness of what we had toeat--not fit for a dog; besides enlarging upon the imprudence ofintrusting the vessel longer to a man of the mate's intemperatehabits. With so many sick, too, what could we expect to do in thefishery? It was no use talking; come what come might, the ship mustlet go her anchor. 

Now, as Bungs, besides being an able seaman, a "Cod" in theforecastle, and about the oldest man in it, was, moreover, thusdeeply imbued with feelings so warmly responded to by the rest, hewas all at once selected to officiate as spokesman, as soon as theconsul should see fit to address us. The selection was made contraryto mine and the doctor's advice; however, all assured us they wouldkeep quiet, and hear everything Wilson had to say, before doinganything decisive. 

We were not kept long in suspense; for very soon he was seen standingin the cabin gangway, with the tarnished tin case containing theship's papers; and Jennin at once sung out for the ship's company tomuster on the quarter-deck. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONSUL

THE order was instantly obeyed, and the sailors ranged themselves, facing the consul. 

They were a wild company; men of many climes--not at all precise intheir toilet arrangements, but picturesque in their very tatters. Myfriend, the Long Doctor, was there too; and with a view, perhaps, ofenlisting the sympathies of the consul for a gentleman in distress, had taken more than ordinary pains with his appearance. But among thesailors, he looked like a land-crane blown off to sea, and consortingwith petrels. 

The forlorn Rope Yarn, however, was by far the most remarkable figure. Land-lubber that he was, his outfit of sea-clothing had long sincebeen confiscated; and he was now fain to go about in whatever hecould pick up. His upper garment--an unsailor-like article of dresswhich he persisted in wearing, though torn from his back twenty timesin the day--was an old "claw-hammer jacket, " or swallow-tail coat, formerly belonging to Captain Guy, and which had formed one of hisperquisites when steward. 

By the side of Wilson was the mate, bareheaded, his gray locks lyingin rings upon his bronzed brow, and his keen eye scanning the crowdas if he knew their every thought. His frock hung loosely, exposinghis round throat, mossy chest, and short and nervous arm embossedwith pugilistic bruises, and quaint with many a device in India ink. 

In the midst of a portentous silence, the consul unrolled his papers, evidently intending to produce an effect by the exceeding bigness ofhis looks. 

"Mr. Jermin, call off their names;" and he handed him a list of theship's company. 

All answered but the deserters and the two mariners at the bottom ofthe sea. 

It was now supposed that the Round Robin would be produced, andsomething said about it. But not so. Among the consul's papers thatunique document was thought to be perceived; but, if there, it wastoo much despised to be made a subject of comment. Some present, veryjustly regarding it as an uncommon literary production, had beenanticipating all sorts of miracles therefrom; and were, therefore, much touched at this neglect. 

"Well, men, " began Wilson again after a short pause, "although you alllook hearty enough, I'm told there are some sick among you. Now then, Mr. Jermin, call off the names on that sick-list of yours, and letthem go over to the other side of the deck--I should like to see whothey are. "

"So, then, " said he, after we had all passed over, "you are the sickfellows, are you? Very good: I shall have you seen to. You will godown into the cabin one by one, to Doctor Johnson, who will reportyour respective cases to me. Such as he pronounces in a dying state Ishall have sent ashore; the rest will be provided with everythingneedful, and remain aboard. "

At this announcement, we gazed strangely at each other, anxious to seewho it was that looked like dying, and pretty nearly deciding to stayaboard and get well, rather than go ashore and be buried. There weresome, nevertheless, who saw very plainly what Wilson was at, and theyacted accordingly. For my own part, I resolved to assume as dying anexpression as possible; hoping that, on the strength of it, I mightbe sent ashore, and so get rid of the ship without any furthertrouble. 

With this intention, I determined to take no part in anything thatmight happen until my case was decided upon. As for the doctor, hehad all along pretended to be more or less unwell; and by asignificant look now given me, it was plain that he was becomingdecidedly worse. 

The invalids disposed of for the present, and one of them having gonebelow to be examined, the consul turned round to the rest, andaddressed them as follows:--

"Men, I'm going to ask you two or three questions--let one of youanswer yes or no, and the rest keep silent. Now then: Have youanything to say against your mate, Mr. Jermin?" And he lookedsharply among the sailors, and, at last, right into the eye of thecooper, whom everybody was eyeing. 

"Well, sir, " faltered Bungs, "we can't say anything against Mr. Jermin's seamanship, but--"

"I want no buts, " cried the consul, breaking in: "answer me yes orno--have you anything to say against Mr. Jermin?"

"I was going on to say, sir; Mr. Jermin's a very good man; but then--"Here the mate looked marlinespikes at Bungs; and Bungs, afterstammering out something, looked straight down to a seam in the deck, and stopped short. 

A rather assuming fellow heretofore, the cooper had sported manyfeathers in his cap; he was now showing the white one. 

"So much then for that part of the business, " exclaimed Wilson, smartly; "you have nothing to say against him, I see. "

Upon this, several seemed to be on the point of saying a good deal;but disconcerted by the cooper's conduct, checked themselves, and theconsul proceeded. 

"Have you enough to eat, aboard? answer me, you man who spokebefore. "

"Well, I don't know as to that, " said the cooper, looking excessivelyuneasy, and trying to edge back, but pushed forward again. "Some ofthat salt horse ain't as sweet as it might be. "

"That's not what I asked you, " shouted the consul, growing brave quitefast; "answer my questions as I put them, or I'll find a way to makeyou. "

This was going a little too far. The ferment, into which the cooper'spoltroonery had thrown the sailors, now brooked no restraint; and oneof them--a young American who went by the name of Salem--dashed outfrom among the rest, and fetching the cooper a blow that sent himhumming over toward the consul, flourished a naked sheath-knife inthe air, and burst forth with "I'm the little fellow that can answeryour questions; just put them to me once, counsellor. " But the"counsellor" had no more questions to ask just then; for at thealarming apparition of Salem's knife, and the extraordinary effectproduced upon Bungs, he had popped his head down the companion-way, and was holding it there. 

Upon the mate's assuring him, however, that it was all over, he lookedup, quite flustered, if not frightened, but evidently determined toput as fierce a face on the matter as practicable. Speaking sharply, he warned all present to "look out"; and then repeated the question, whether there was enough to eat aboard. Everyone now turnedspokesman; and he was assailed by a perfect hurricane of yells, inwhich the oaths fell like hailstones. 

"How's this! what d'ye mean?" he cried, upon the first lull; "who toldyou all to speak at once? Here, you man with the knife, you'll beputting someone's eyes out yet; d'ye hear, you sir? You seem to havea good deal to say, who are you, pray; where did you ship?"

"I'm nothing more nor a bloody beach-comber, " retorted Salem, steppingforward piratically and eyeing him; "and if you want to know, Ishipped at the Islands about four months ago. "

"Only four months ago? And here you have more to say than men who havebeen aboard the whole voyage;" and the consul made a dash at lookingfurious, but failed. "Let me hear no more from you, sir. Where'sthat respectable, gray-headed man, the cooper? he's the one to answermy questions. "

"There's no 'spectable, gray-headed men aboard, " returned Salem;"we're all a parcel of mutineers and pirates!"

All this time, the mate was holding his peace; and Wilson, nowcompletely abashed, and at a loss what to do, took him by the arm, and walked across the deck. Returning to the cabin-scuttle, after aclose conversation, he abruptly addressed the sailors, without takingany further notice of what had just happened. 

"For reasons you all know, men, this ship has been placed in my hands. As Captain Guy will remain ashore for the present, your mate, Mr. Jermin, will command until his recovery. According to my judgment, there is no reason why the voyage should not be at once resumed;especially, as I shall see that you have two more harpooners, andenough good men to man three boats. As for the sick, neither you nor Ihave anything to do with them; they will be attended to by DoctorJohnson; but I've explained that matter before. As soon as things canbe arranged--in a day or two, at farthest--you will go to sea for athree months' cruise, touching here, at the end of it, for yourcaptain. Let me hear a good report of you, now, when you come back. At present, you will continue lying off and on the harbour. I willsend you fresh provisions as soon as I can get them. There: I'venothing more to say; go forward to your stations. "

And, without another word, he wheeled round to descend into the cabin. But hardly had he concluded before the incensed men were dancingabout him on every side, and calling upon him to lend an ear. Eachone for himself denied the legality of what he proposed to do;insisted upon the necessity for taking the ship in; and finally gavehim to understand, roughly and roundly, that go to sea in her theywould not. 

In the midst of this mutinous uproar, the alarmed consul stood fast bythe scuttle. His tactics had been decided upon beforehand; indeed, they must have been concerted ashore, between him and the captain;for all he said, as he now hurried below, was, "Go forward, men; I'mthrough with you: you should have mentioned these matters before: myarrangements are concluded: go forward, I say; I've nothing more tosay to you. " And, drawing over the slide of the scuttle, hedisappeared. Upon the very point of following him down, the attentionof the exasperated seamen was called off to a party who had just thentaken the recreant Bungs in hand. Amid a shower of kicks and cuffs, the traitor was borne along to the forecastle, where--I forbear torelate what followed. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

THE CONSUL'S DEPARTURE

DURING THE scenes just described, Doctor Johnson was engaged inexamining the sick, of whom, as it turned out, all but two were toremain in the ship. He had evidently received his cue from Wilson. 

One of the last called below into the cabin, just as the quarter-deckgathering dispersed, I came on deck quite incensed. My lameness, which, to tell the truth, was now much better, was put down as, in agreat measure, affected; and my name was on the list of those whowould be fit for any duty in a day or two. This was enough. As forDoctor Long Ghost, the shore physician, instead of extending to himany professional sympathy, had treated him very cavalierly. To acertain extent, therefore, we were now both bent on making commoncause with the sailors. 

I must explain myself here. All we wanted was to have the ship snuglyanchored in Papeetee Bay; entertaining no doubt that, could this bedone, it would in some way or other peaceably lead to ouremancipation. Without a downright mutiny, there was but one way toaccomplish this: to induce the men to refuse all further duty, unlessit were to work the vessel in. The only difficulty lay in restrainingthem within proper bounds. Nor was it without certain misgivings, that I found myself so situated, that I must necessarily link myself, however guardedly, with such a desperate company; and in anenterprise, too, of which it was hard to conjecture what might be theresult. But anything like neutrality was out of the question; andunconditional submission was equally so. 

On going forward, we found them ten times more tumultuous than ever. After again restoring some degree of tranquillity, we once more urgedour plan of quietly refusing duty, and awaiting the result. At first, few would hear of it; but in the end, a good number were convinced byour representations. Others held out. Nor were those who thought withus in all things to be controlled. 

Upon Wilson's coming on deck to enter his boat, he was beset on allsides; and, for a moment, I thought the ship would be seized beforehis very eyes. 

"Nothing more to say to you, men: my arrangements are made. Goforward, where you belong. I'll take no insolence;" and, in a tremor, Wilson hurried over the side in the midst of a volley of execrations. 

Shortly after his departure, the mate ordered the cook and stewardinto his boat; and saying that he was going to see how the captaindid, left us, as before, under the charge of Bembo. 

At this time we were lying becalmed, pretty close in with the land(having gone about again), our main-topsail flapping against the mastwith every roll. 

The departure of the consul and Jermin was followed by a sceneabsolutely indescribable. The sailors ran about deck like madmen;Bembo, all the while leaning against the taff-rail by himself, smoking his heathenish stone pipe, and never interfering. 

The cooper, who that morning had got himself into a fluid of anexceedingly high temperature, now did his best to regain the favourof the crew. "Without distinction of party, " he called upon all handsto step up, and partake of the contents of his bucket. 

But it was quite plain that, before offering to intoxicate others, hehad taken the wise precaution of getting well tipsy himself. He wasnow once more happy in the affection of his shipmates, who, one andall, pronounced him sound to the kelson. 

The Pisco soon told; and, with great difficulty, we restrained a partyin the very act of breaking into the after-hold in pursuit of more. All manner of pranks were now played. 

"Mast-head, there! what d'ye see?" bawled Beauty, hailing themain-truck through an enormous copper funnel. "Stand by for stays, "roared Flash Jack, bawling off with the cook's axe, at the fasteningof the main-stay. "Looky out for 'quails!" shrieked the Portuguese, Antone, darting a handspike through the cabin skylight. And "Heaveround cheerly, men, " sung out Navy Bob, dancing a hornpipe on theforecastle. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE SECOND NIGHT OFF PAPEETEE

TOWARD sunset, the mate came off, singing merrily, in the stern of hisboat; and in attempting to climb up the side, succeeded in goingplump into the water. He was rescued by the steward, and carriedacross the deck with many moving expressions of love for his bearer. Tumbled into the quarter-boat, he soon fell asleep, and waking aboutmidnight, somewhat sobered, went forward among the men. Here, toprepare for what follows, we must leave him for a moment. 

It was now plain enough that Jermin was by no means unwilling to takethe Julia to sea; indeed, there was nothing he so much desired;though what his reasons were, seeing our situation, we could onlyconjecture. Nevertheless, so it was; and having counted much upon hisrough popularity with the men to reconcile them to a short cruiseunder him, he had consequently been disappointed in their behaviour. Still, thinking that they would take a different view of the matter, when they came to know what fine times he had in store for them, heresolved upon trying a little persuasion. 

So on going forward, he put his head down the forecastle scuttle, andhailed us quite cordially, inviting us down into the cabin; where, hesaid, he had something to make merry withal. Nothing loth, we went;and throwing ourselves along the transom, waited for the steward toserve us. 

As the can circulated, Jermin, leaning on the table and occupying thecaptain's arm-chair secured to the deck, opened his mind as bluntlyand freely as ever. He was by no means yet sober. 

He told us we were acting very foolishly; that if we only stuck to theship, he would lead us all a jovial life of it; enumerating the casksstill remaining untapped in the Julia's wooden cellar. It was evenhinted vaguely that such a thing might happen as our not coming backfor the captain; whom he spoke of but lightly; asserting, what he hadoften said before, that he was no sailor. 

Moreover, and perhaps with special reference to Doctor Long Ghost andmyself, he assured us generally that, if there were any among usstudiously inclined, he would take great pleasure in teaching suchthe whole art and mystery of navigation, including the gratuitous useof his quadrant. 

I should have mentioned that, previous to this, he had taken thedoctor aside, and said something about reinstating him in the cabinwith augmented dignity; beside throwing out a hint that I myself wasin some way or other to be promoted. But it was all to no purpose;bent the men were upon going ashore, and there was no moving them. 

At last he flew into a rage--much increased by the frequency of hispotations--and with many imprecations, concluded by driving everybodyout of the cabin. We tumbled up the gangway in high good-humour. 

Upon deck everything looked so quiet that some of the most pugnaciousspirits actually lamented that there was so little prospect of anexhilarating disturbance before morning. It was not five minutes, however, ere these fellows were gratified. 

Sydney Ben--said to be a runaway Ticket-of-Leave-Man, and for reasonsof his own, one of the few who still remained on duty--had, for thesake of the fun, gone down with the rest into the cabin; where Bembo, who meanwhile was left in charge of the deck, had frequently calledout for him. At first, Ben pretended not to hear; but on being sungout for again and again, bluntly refused; at the same time, castingsome illiberal reflections on the Mowree's maternal origin, which thelatter had been long enough among the sailors to understand as in thehighest degree offensive. So just after the men came up from below, Bembo singled him out, and gave him such a cursing in his brokenlingo that it was enough to frighten one. The convict was the worsefor liquor; indeed the Mowree had been tippling also, and before weknew it, a blow was struck by Ben, and the two men came together likemagnets. 

The Ticket-of-Leave-Man was a practised bruiser; but the savage knewnothing of the art pugilistic: and so they were even. It was clearhugging and wrenching till both came to the deck. Here they rolledover and over in the middle of a ring which seemed to form of itself. At last the white man's head fell back, and his face grew purple. Bembo's teeth were at his throat. Rushing in all round, they hauledthe savage off, but not until repeatedly struck on the head would helet go. 

His rage was now absolutely demoniac; he lay glaring and writhing onthe deck, without attempting to rise. Cowed, as they supposed he was, from his attitude, the men, rejoiced at seeing him thus humbled, lefthim; after rating him, in sailor style, for a cannibal and a coward. 

Ben was attended to, and led below. 

Soon after this, the rest also, with but few exceptions, retired intothe forecastle; and having been up nearly all the previous night, they quickly dropped about the chests and rolled into the hammocks. In an hour's time, not a sound could be heard in that part of theship. 

Before Bembo was dragged away, the mate had in vain endeavoured toseparate the combatants, repeatedly striking the Mowree; but theseamen interposing, at last kept him off. 

And intoxicated as he was, when they dispersed, he knew enough tocharge the steward--a steady seaman be it remembered--with thepresent safety of the ship; and then went below, when he felldirectly into another drunken sleep. 

Having remained upon deck with the doctor some time after the rest hadgone below, I was just on the point of following him down, when I sawthe Mowree rise, draw a bucket of water, and holding it high abovehis head, pour its contents right over him. This he repeated severaltimes. There was nothing very peculiar in the act, but something elseabout him struck me. However, I thought no more of it, but descendedthe scuttle. 

After a restless nap, I found the atmosphere of the forecastle soclose, from nearly all the men being down at the same time, that Ihunted up an old pea-jacket and went on deck; intending to sleep itout there till morning. Here I found the cook and steward, Wymontoo, Hope Yarn, and the Dane; who, being all quiet, manageable fellows, and holding aloof from the rest since the captain's departure, hadbeen ordered by the mate not to go below until sunrise. They werelying under the lee of the bulwarks; two or three fast asleep, andthe others smoking their pipes, and conversing. 

To my surprise, Bembo was at the helm; but there being so few to standthere now, they told me, he had offered to take his turn with therest, at the same time heading the watch; and to this, of course, they made no objection. 

It was a fine, bright night; all moon and stars, and white crests ofwaves. The breeze was light, but freshening; and close-hauled, poorlittle Jule, as if nothing had happened, was heading in for the land, which rose high and hazy in the distance. 

After the day's uproar, the tranquillity of the scene was soothing, and I leaned over the side to enjoy it. 

More than ever did I now lament my situation--but it was useless torepine, and I could not upbraid myself. So at last, becoming drowsy, I made a bed with my jacket under the windlass, and tried to forgetmyself. 

How long I lay there, I cannot tell; but as I rose, the first objectthat met my eye was Bembo at the helm; his dark figure slowly risingand falling with the ship's motion against the spangled heavensbehind. He seemed all impatience and expectation; standing at arm'slength from the spokes, with one foot advanced, and his bare headthrust forward. Where I was, the watch were out of sight; and no oneelse was stirring; the deserted decks and broad white sails weregleaming in the moonlight. 

Presently, a swelling, dashing sound came upon my ear, and I had asort of vague consciousness that I had been hearing it before. Thenext instant I was broad awake and on my feet. Eight ahead, and sonear that my heart stood still, was a long line of breakers, heavingand frothing. It was the coral reef girdling the island. Behind it, and almost casting their shadows upon the deck, were the sleepingmountains, about whose hazy peaks the gray dawn was just breaking. The breeze had freshened, and with a steady, gliding motion, we wererunning straight for the reef. 

All was taken in at a glance; the fell purpose of Bembo was obvious, and with a frenzied shout to wake the watch, I rushed aft. Theysprang to their feet bewildered; and after a short, but desperatescuffle, we tore him from the helm. In wrestling with him, thewheel--left for a moment unguarded--flew to leeward, thus, fortunately, bringing the ship's head to the wind, and so retarding her progress. Previous to this, she had been kept three or four points free, so asto close with the breakers. Her headway now shortened, I steadied thehelm, keeping the sails just lifting, while we glided obliquelytoward the land. To have run off before the wind--an easything--would have been almost instant destruction, owing to a curve ofthe reef in that direction. At this time, the Dane and the stewardwere still struggling with the furious Mowree, and the others wererunning about irresolute and shouting. 

But darting forward the instant I had the helm, the old cook thunderedon the forecastle with a handspike, "Breakers! breakers closeaboard!--'bout ship! 'bout ship!"

Up came the sailors, staring about them in stupid horror. 

"Haul back the head-yards!" "Let go the lee fore-brace!" "Beady about!about!" were now shouted on all sides; while distracted by a thousandorders, they ran hither and thither, fairly panic-stricken. 

It seemed all over with us; and I was just upon the point of throwingthe ship full into the wind (a step, which, saving us for theinstant, would have sealed our fate in the end), when a sharp cryshot by my ear like the flight of an arrow. 

It was Salem: "All ready for'ard; hard down!"

Round and round went the spokes--the Julia, with her short keel, spinning to windward like a top. Soon, the jib-sheets lashed thestays, and the men, more self-possessed, flew to the braces. 

"Main-sail haul!" was now heard, as the fresh breeze streamed fore andaft the deck; and directly the after-yards were whirled round. 

In a half-a-minute more, we were sailing away from the land on theother tack, with every sail distended. 

Turning on her heel within little more than a biscuit's toss of thereef, no earthly power could have saved us, were it not that, up tothe very brink of the coral rampart, there are no soundings. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

OUTBREAK OF THE CREW

THE purpose of Bembo had been made known to the men generally by thewatch; and now that our salvation was certain, by an instinctiveimpulse they raised a cry, and rushed toward him. 

Just before liberated by Dunk and the steward, he was standingdoggedly by the mizzen-mast; and, as the infuriated sailors came on, his bloodshot eye rolled, and his sheath-knife glittered over hishead. 

"Down with him!" "Strike him down!" "Hang him at the main-yard!" suchwere the shouts now raised. But he stood unmoved, and, for a singleinstant, they absolutely faltered. 

"Cowards!" cried Salem, and he flung himself upon him. The steeldescended like a ray of light; but did no harm; for the sailor'sheart was beating against the Mowree's before he was aware. 

They both fell to the deck, when the knife was instantly seized, andBembo secured. 

"For'ard! for'ard with him!" was again the cry; "give him a sea-toss!""Overboard with him!" and he was dragged along the deck, strugglingand fighting with tooth and nail. 

All this uproar immediately over the mate's head at last roused himfrom his drunken nap, and he came staggering on deck. 

"What's this?" he shouted, running right in among them. 

"It's the Mowree, zur; they are going to murder him, zur, " here sobbedpoor Rope Yarn, crawling close up to him. 

"Avast! avast!" roared Jermin, making a spring toward Bembo, anddashing two or three of the sailors aside. At this moment the wretchwas partly flung over the bulwarks, which shook with his franticstruggles. In vain the doctor and others tried to save him: the menlistened to nothing. 

"Murder and mutiny, by the salt sea!" shouted the mate; and dashinghis arms right and left, he planted his iron hand upon the Mowree'sshoulder. 

"There are two of us now; and as you serve him, you serve me, " hecried, turning fiercely round. 

"Over with them together, then, " exclaimed the carpenter, springingforward; but the rest fell back before the courageous front ofJermin, and, with the speed of thought, Bembo, unharmed, stood upondeck. 

"Aft with ye!" cried his deliverer; and he pushed him right among themen, taking care to follow him up close. Giving the sailors no timeto recover, he pushed the Mowree before him, till they came to thecabin scuttle, when he drew the slide over him, and stood still. Throughout, Bembo never spoke one word. 

"Now for'ard where ye belong!" cried the mate, addressing the seamen, who by this time, rallying again, had no idea of losing their victim. 

"The Mowree! the Mowree!" they shouted. 

Here the doctor, in answer to the mate's repeated questions, steppedforward, and related what Bembo had been doing; a matter which themate but dimly understood from the violent threatenings he had beenhearing. 

For a moment he seemed to waver; but at last, turning the key of thepadlock of the slide, he breathed through his set teeth--"Ye can'thave him; I'll hand him over to the consul; so for'ard with ye, Isay: when there's any drowning to be done, I'll pass the word; soaway with ye, ye blood-thirsty pirates. "

It was to no purpose that they begged or threatened: Jermin, althoughby no means sober, stood his ground manfully, and before long theydispersed, soon to forget everything that had happened. 

Though we had no opportunity to hear him confess it, Bembo's intentionto destroy us was beyond all question. His only motive could havebeen a desire to revenge the contumely heaped upon him the nightprevious, operating upon a heart irreclaimably savage, and at no timefraternally disposed toward the crew. 

During the whole of this scene the doctor did his best to save him. But well knowing that all I could do would have been equally useless, I maintained my place at the wheel. Indeed, no one but Jermin couldhave prevented this murder. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

JERMIN ENCOUNTERS AN OLD SHIPMATE

DURING the morning of the day which dawned upon the events justrecounted, we remained a little to leeward of the harbour, waitingthe appearance of the consul, who had promised the mate to come offin a shore boat for the purpose of seeing him. 

By this time the men had forced his secret from the cooper, and theconsequence was that they kept him continually coming and going fromthe after-hold. The mate must have known this; but he said nothing, notwithstanding all the dancing and singing, and occasional fightingwhich announced the flow of the Pisco. 

The peaceable influence which the doctor and myself had heretoforebeen exerting, was now very nearly at an end. 

Confident, from the aspect of matters, that the ship, after all, wouldbe obliged to go in; and learning, moreover, that the mate had saidso, the sailors, for the present, seemed in no hurry about it;especially as the bucket of Bungs gave such generous cheer. 

As for Bembo, we were told that, after putting him in double irons, the mate had locked him up in the captain's state-room, taking theadditional precaution of keeping the cabin scuttle secured. From thistime forward we never saw the Mowree again, a circumstance which willexplain itself as the narrative proceeds. 

Noon came, and no consul; and as the afternoon advanced without anyword even from the shore, the mate was justly incensed; moreespecially as he had taken great pains to keep perfectly soberagainst Wilson's arrival. 

Two or three hours before sundown, a small schooner came out of theharbour, and headed over for the adjoining island of Imeeo, orMoreea, in plain sight, about fifteen miles distant. The windfailing, the current swept her down under our bows, where we had afair glimpse of the natives on her decks. 

There were a score of them, perhaps, lounging upon spread mats, andsmoking their pipes. On floating so near, and hearing the maudlincries of our crew, and beholding their antics, they must have takenus for a pirate; at any rate, they got out their sweeps, and pulledaway as fast as they could; the sight of our two six-pounders, which, by way of a joke, were now run out of the side-ports, giving a freshimpetus to their efforts. But they had not gone far, when a whiteman, with a red sash about his waist, made his appearance on deck, the natives immediately desisting. 

Hailing us loudly, he said he was coming aboard; and after someconfusion on the schooner's decks, a small canoe was launchedover-hoard, and, in a minute or two, he was with us. He turned out tobe an old shipmate of Jermin's, one Viner, long supposed dead, butnow resident on the island. 

The meeting of these men, under the circumstances, is one of athousand occurrences appearing exaggerated in fiction; but, nevertheless, frequently realized in actual lives of adventure. 

Some fifteen years previous, they had sailed together as officers ofthe barque Jane, of London, a South Seaman. Somewhere near the NewHebrides, they struck one night upon an unknown reef; and, in a fewhours, the Jane went to pieces. The boats, however, were saved; someprovisions also, a quadrant, and a few other articles. But several ofthe men were lost before they got clear of the wreck. 

The three boats, commanded respectively by the captain, Jermin, andthe third mate, then set sail for a small English settlement at theBay of Islands in New Zealand. Of course they kept together as muchas possible. After being at sea about a week, a Lascar in thecaptain's boat went crazy; and, it being dangerous to keep him, theytried to throw him overboard. In the confusion that ensued the boatcapsized from the sail's "jibing"; and a considerable sea running atthe time, and the other boats being separated more than usual, onlyone man was picked up. The very next night it blew a heavy gale; andthe remaining boats taking in all sail, made bundles of their oars, flung them overboard, and rode to them with plenty of line. Whenmorning broke, Jermin and his men were alone upon the ocean: thethird mate's boat, in all probability, having gone down. 

After great hardships, the survivors caught sight of a brig, whichtook them on board, and eventually landed them at Sydney. 

Ever since then our mate had sailed from that port, never once hearingof his lost shipmates, whom, by this time, of course, he had longgiven up. Judge, then, his feelings when Viner, the lost third mate, the instant he touched the deck, rushed up and wrung him by the hand. 

During the gale his line had parted; so that the boat, drifting fastto leeward, was out of sight by morning. Reduced, after this, togreat extremities, the boat touched, for fruit, at an island of whichthey knew nothing. The natives, at first, received them kindly; butone of the men getting into a quarrel on account of a woman, and therest taking his part, they were all massacred but Viner, who, at thetime, was in an adjoining village. After staying on the island morethan two years, he finally escaped in the boat of an American whaler, which landed him at Valparaiso. From this period he had continued tofollow the seas, as a man before the mast, until about eighteenmonths previous, when he went ashore at Tahiti, where he now owned theschooner we saw, in which he traded among the neighbouring islands. 

The breeze springing up again just after nightfall, Viner left us, promising his old shipmate to see him again, three days hence, inPapeetee harbour. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

WE ENTER THE HARBOUR--JIM THE PILOT

EXHAUSTED by the day's wassail, most of the men went below at an earlyhour, leaving the deck to the steward and two of the men remaining onduty; the mate, with Baltimore and the Dane, engaging to relieve themat midnight. At that hour, the ship--now standing off shore, undershort sail--was to be tacked. 

It was not long after midnight, when we were wakened in the forecastleby the lion roar of Jermin's voice, ordering a pull at thejib-halyards; and soon afterwards, a handspike struck the scuttle, and all hands were called to take the ship into port. 

This was wholly unexpected; but we learned directly that the mate, nolonger relying upon the consul, and renouncing all thought ofinducing the men to change their minds, had suddenly made up his own. He was going to beat up to the entrance of the harbour, so as to showa signal for a pilot before sunrise. 

Notwithstanding this, the sailors absolutely refused to assist inworking the ship under any circumstances whatever: to all mine andthe doctor's entreaties lending a deaf ear. Sink or strike, theyswore they would have nothing more to do with her. This perverse-nesswas to be attributed, in a great measure, to the effects of theirlate debauch. 

With a strong breeze, all sail set, and the ship in the hands of fouror five men, exhausted by two nights' watching, our situation was badenough; especially as the mate seemed more reckless than ever, and wewere now to tack ship several times close under the land. 

Well knowing that if anything untoward happened to the vessel beforemorning, it would be imputed to the conduct of the crew, and so leadto serious results, should they ever be brought to trial; I calledtogether those on deck to witness my declaration;--that now that theJulia was destined for the harbour (the only object for which I, atleast, had been struggling), I was willing to do what I could towardcarrying her in safely. In this step I was followed by the doctor. 

The hours passed anxiously until morning; when, being well to windwardof the mouth of the harbour, we bore up for it, with the union-jackat the fore. No sign, however, of boat or pilot was seen; and afterrunning close in several times, the ensign was set at themizzen-peak, union down in distress. But it was of no avail. 

Attributing to Wilson this unaccountable remissness on the part ofthose ashore, Jermin, quite enraged, now determined to stand boldlyin upon his own responsibility; trusting solely to what he rememberedof the harbour on a visit there many years previous. 

This resolution was characteristic. Even with a competent pilot, Papeetee Bay, is considered a ticklish, one to enter. Formed by abold sweep of the shore, it is protected seaward by the coral reef, upon which the rollers break with great violence. After stretchingacross the bay, the barrier extends on toward Point Venus, in thedistrict of Matavia, eight or nine miles distant. Here there is anopening, by which ships enter, and glide down the smooth, deep canal, between the reef and the shore, to the harbour. But, by seamengenerally, the leeward entrance is preferred, as the wind isextremely variable inside the reef. This latter entrance is a break inthe barrier directly facing the bay and village of Papeetee. It isvery narrow; and from the baffling winds, currents, and sunken rocks, ships now and then grate their keels against the coral. 

But the mate was not to be daunted; so, stationing what men he had atthe braces, he sprang upon the bulwarks, and, bidding everybody keepwide awake, ordered the helm up. In a few moments, we were runningin. Being toward noon, the wind was fast leaving us, and, by the timethe breakers were roaring on either hand, little more thansteerage-way was left. But on we glided--smoothly and deftly; avoidingthe green, darkling objects here and there strewn in our path; Jerminoccasionally looking down in the water, and then about him, with theutmost calmness, and not a word spoken. Just fanned along thus, itwas not many minutes ere we were past all danger, and floated intothe placid basin within. This was the cleverest specimen of hisseamanship that he ever gave us. 

As we held on toward the frigate and shipping, a canoe, coming outfrom among them, approached. In it were a boy and an old man--bothislanders; the former nearly naked, and the latter dressed in an oldnaval frock-coat. Both were paddling with might and main; the oldman, once in a while, tearing his paddle out of the water; and, afterrapping his companion over the head, both fell to with fresh vigour. As they came within hail, the old fellow, springing to his feet andflourishing his paddle, cut some of the queerest capers; all thewhile jabbering something which at first we could not understand. 

Presently we made out the following:--"Ah! you pemi, ah!--youcome!--What for you come?--You be fine for come no pilot. --I say, youhear?--I say, you ita maitui (no good). --You hear?--You nopilot. --Yes, you d---- me, you no pilot 't all; I d---- you; youhear?"

This tirade, which showed plainly that, whatever the profane oldrascal was at, he was in right good earnest, produced peals oflaughter from the ship. Upon which, he seemed to get beside himself;and the boy, who, with suspended paddle, was staring about him, received a sound box over the head, which set him to work in atwinkling, and brought the canoe quite near. The orator now openingafresh, it turned out that his vehement rhetoric was all addressed tothe mate, still standing conspicuously on the bulwarks. 

But Jermin was in no humour for nonsense; so, with a sailor'sblessing, he ordered him off. The old fellow then flew into a regularfrenzy, cursing and swearing worse than any civilized being I everheard. 

"You sabbee me?" he shouted. "You know me, ah? Well; me Jim, mepilot--been pilot now long time. "

"Ay, " cried Jermin, quite surprised, as indeed we all were, "you arethe pilot, then, you old pagan. Why didn't you come off before this?"

"Ah! me scibbee, --me know--you piratee (pirate)--see you long time, but no me come--I sabbee you--you ita maitai nuee (superlativelybad). "

"Paddle away with ye, " roared Jermin, in a rage; "be off! or I'll darta harpoon at ye!"

But, instead of obeying the order, Jim, seizing his paddle, darted thecanoe right up to the gangway, and, in two bounds, stood on deck. 

Pulling a greasy silk handkerchief still lower over his brow, andimproving the sit of his frock-coat with a vigorous jerk, he thenstrode up to the mate; and, in a more flowery style than ever, gavehim to understand that the redoubtable "Jim, " himself, was beforehim; that the ship was his until the anchor was down; and he shouldlike to hear what anyone had to say to it. 

As there now seemed little doubt that he was all he claimed to be, theJulia was at last surrendered. 

Our gentleman now proceeded to bring us to an anchor, jumping upbetween the knight-heads, and bawling out "Luff! luff! keepy off!leeepy off!" and insisting upon each time being respectfullyresponded to by the man at the helm. At this time our steerage-waywas almost gone; and yet, in giving his orders, the passionate oldman made as much fuss as a white squall aboard the Flying Dutchman. 

Jim turned out to be the regular pilot of the harbour; a post, be itknown, of no small profit; and, in his eyes, at least, invested withimmense importance. Our unceremonious entrance, therefore, wasregarded as highly insulting, and tending to depreciate both thedignity and lucrativeness of his office. 

The old man is something of a wizard. Having an understanding with theelements, certain phenomena of theirs are exhibited for hisparticular benefit. Unusually clear weather, with a fine steadybreeze, is a certain sign that a merchantman is at hand; whale-spoutsseen from the harbour are tokens of a whaling vessel's approach; andthunder and lightning, happening so seldom as they do, are proofpositive that a man-of-war is drawing near. 

In short, Jim, the pilot, is quite a character in his way; and no onevisits Tahiti without hearing some curious story about him. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE--WE ARE SENT ABOARD THE FRIGATE

THE village of Papeetee struck us all very pleasantly. Lying in asemicircle round the bay, the tasteful mansions of the chiefs andforeign residents impart an air of tropical elegance, heightened bythe palm-trees waving here and there, and the deep-green groves ofthe Bread-Fruit in the background. The squalid huts of the commonpeople are out of sight, and there is nothing to mar the prospect. 

All round the water extends a wide, smooth beach of mixed pebbles andfragments of coral. This forms the thoroughfare of the village; thehandsomest houses all facing it--the fluctuation of the tides beingso inconsiderable that they cause no inconvenience. 

The Pritchard residence--a fine large building--occupies a site on oneside of the bay: a green lawn slopes off to the sea: and in frontwaves the English flag. Across the water, the tricolour also, and thestars and stripes, distinguish the residences of the other consuls. 

What greatly added to the picturesqueness of the bay at this time wasthe condemned hull of a large ship, which, at the farther end of theharbour, lay bilged upon the beach, its stern settled low in thewater, and the other end high and dry. From where we lay, the treesbehind seemed to lock their leafy boughs over its bowsprit; which, from its position, looked nearly upright. 

She was an American whaler, a very old craft. Having sprung a leak atsea, she had made all sail for the island, to heave down for repairs. Found utterly unseaworthy, however, her oil was taken out and senthome in another vessel; the hull was then stripped and sold for atrifle. 

Before leaving Tahiti, I had the curiosity to go over this poor oldship, thus stranded on a strange shore. What were my emotions, when Isaw upon her stern the name of a small town on the river Hudson! Shewas from the noble stream on whose banks I was born; in whose watersI had a hundred times bathed. In an instant, palm-trees andelms--canoes and skiffs--church spires and bamboos--all mingled in onevision of the present and the past. 

But we must not leave little Jule. 

At last the wishes of many were gratified; and like an aeronaut'sgrapnel, her rusty little anchor was caught in the coral groves atthe bottom of Papeetee Bay. This must have been more than forty daysafter leaving the Marquesas. 

The sails were yet unfurled, when a boat came alongside with ouresteemed friend Wilson, the consul. 

"How's this, how's this, Mr. Jermin?" he began, looking very savage ashe touched the deck. "What brings you in without orders?"

"You did not come off to us, as you promised, sir; and there was nohanging on longer with nobody to work the ship, " was the blunt reply. 

"So the infernal scoundrels held out--did they? Very good; I'll makethem sweat for it, " and he eyed the scowling men with unwontedintrepidity. The truth was, he felt safer now, than when outside thereef. 

"Muster the mutineers on the quarter-deck, " he continued. "Drive themaft, sir, sick and well: I have a word to say to them. "

"Now, men, " said he, "you think it's all well with you, I suppose. Youwished the ship in, and here she is. Captain Guy's ashore, and youthink you must go too: but we'll see about that--I'll miserablydisappoint you. " (These last were his very words. ) "Mr. Jermin, calloff the names of those who did not refuse duty, and let them go overto the starboard side. "

This done, a list was made out of the "mutineers, " as he was pleasedto call the rest. Among these, the doctor and myself were included;though the former stepped forward, and boldly pleaded the office heldby him when the vessel left Sydney. The mate also--who had alwaysbeen friendly--stated the service rendered by myself two nightsprevious, as well as my conduct when he announced his intention toenter the harbour. For myself, I stoutly maintained that, accordingto the tenor of the agreement made with Captain Guy, my time aboardthe ship had expired--the cruise being virtually at an end, howeverit had been brought about--and I claimed my discharge. 

But Wilson would hear nothing. Marking something in my manner, nevertheless, he asked my name and country; and then observed with asneer, "Ah, you are the lad, I see, that wrote the Round Robin; I'lltake good care of you, my fine fellow--step back, sir. "

As for poor Long Ghost, he denounced him as a "Sydney Flash-Gorger";though what under heaven he meant by that euphonious title is morethan I can tell. Upon this, the doctor gave him such a piece of hismind that the consul furiously commanded him to hold his peace, or hewould instantly have him seized into the rigging and flogged. Therewas no help for either of us--we were judged by the company we kept. 

All were now sent forward; not a word being said as to what heintended doing with us. 

After a talk with the mate, the consul withdrew, going aboard theFrench frigate, which lay within a cable's length. We now suspectedhis object; and since matters had come to this pass, were rejoiced atit. In a day or two the Frenchman was to sail for Valparaiso, theusual place of rendezvous for the English squadron in the Pacific;and doubtless, Wilson meant to put us on board, and send us thither tobe delivered up. Should our conjecture prove correct, all we had toexpect, according to our most experienced shipmates, was the fag endof a cruise in one of her majesty's ships, and a discharge beforelong at Portsmouth. 

We now proceeded to put on all the clothes we could--frock over frock, and trousers over trousers--so as to be in readiness for removal at amoment's warning. Armed ships allow nothing superfluous to litter upthe deck; and therefore, should we go aboard the frigate, our chestsand their contents would have to be left behind. 

In an hour's time, the first cutter of the Reine Blanche camealongside, manned by eighteen or twenty sailors, armed with cutlassesand boarding pistols--the officers, of course, wearing theirside-arms, and the consul in an official cocked hat borrowed for theoccasion. The boat was painted a "pirate black, " its crew were adark, grim-looking set, and the officers uncommonly fierce-lookinglittle Frenchmen. On the whole they were calculated to intimidate--theconsul's object, doubtless, in bringing them. 

Summoned aft again, everyone's name was called separately; and beingsolemnly reminded that it was his last chance to escape punishment, was asked if he still refused duty. The response was instantaneous:"Ay, sir, I do. " In some cases followed up by divers explanatoryobservations, cut short by Wilson's ordering the delinquent to thecutter. As a general thing, the order was promptly obeyed--sometaking a sequence of hops, skips, and jumps, by way of showing notonly their unimpaired activity of body, but their alacrity incomplying with all reasonable requests. 

Having avowed their resolution not to pull another rope of theJulia's--even if at once restored to perfect health--all theinvalids, with the exception of the two to be set ashore, accompaniedus into the cutter: They were in high spirits; so much so thatsomething was insinuated about their not having been quite as ill aspretended. 

The cooper's name was the last called; we did not hear what heanswered, but he stayed behind. Nothing was done about the Mowree. 

Shoving clear from the ship, three loud cheers were raised; Flash Jackand others receiving a sharp reprimand for it from the consul. 

"Good-bye, Little Jule, " cried Navy Bob, as we swept under the bows. "Don't fall overboard, Ropey, " said another to the poor landlubber, who, with Wymontoo, the Dane, and others left behind, was lookingover at us from the forecastle. 

"Give her three more!" cried Salem, springing to his feet and whirlinghis hat round. "You sacre dam raakeel, " shouted the lieutenant ofthe party, bringing the flat of his sabre across his shoulders, "younow keepy steel. "

The doctor and myself, more discreet, sat quietly in the bow of thecutter; and for my own part, though I did not repent what I had done, my reflections were far from being enviable. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN

IN a few moments, we were paraded in the frigate's gangway; the firstlieutenant--an elderly yellow-faced officer, in an ill-cut coat andtarnished gold lace--coming up, and frowning upon us. 

This gentleman's head was a mere bald spot; his legs, sticks; inshort, his whole physical vigour seemed exhausted in the productionof one enormous moustache. Old Gamboge, as he was forthwithchristened, now received a paper from the consul; and, opening it, proceeded to compare the goods delivered with the invoice. 

After being thoroughly counted, a meek little midshipman was called, and we were soon after given in custody to half-a-dozensailor-soldiers--fellows with tarpaulins and muskets. Preceded by apompous functionary (whom we took for one of the ship's corporals, from his ratan and the gold lace on his sleeve), we were now escorteddown the ladders to the berth-deck. 

Here we were politely handcuffed, all round; the man with the bambooevincing the utmost solicitude in giving us a good fit from a largebasket of the articles of assorted sizes. 

Taken by surprise at such an uncivil reception, a few of the partydemurred; but all coyness was, at last, overcome; and finally ourfeet were inserted into heavy anklets of iron, running along a greatbar bolted down to the deck. After this, we considered ourselvespermanently established in our new quarters. 

"The deuce take their old iron!" exclaimed the doctor; "if I'd knownthis, I'd stayed behind. "

"Ha, ha!" cried Flash Jack, "you're in for it, Doctor Long Ghost. "

"My hands and feet are, any way, " was the reply. 

They placed a sentry over us; a great lubber of a fellow, who marchedup and down with a dilapidated old cutlass of most extraordinarydimensions. From its length, we had some idea that it was expresslyintended to keep a crowd in order--reaching over the heads ofhalf-a-dozen, say, so as to get a cut at somebody behind. 

"Mercy!" ejaculated the doctor with a shudder, "what a sensation itmust be to be killed by such a tool. "

We fasted till night, when one of the boys came along with a couple of"kids" containing a thin, saffron-coloured fluid, with oily particlesfloating on top. The young wag told us this was soup: it turned outto be nothing more than oleaginous warm water. Such as it was, nevertheless, we were fain to make a meal of it, our sentry beingattentive enough to undo our bracelets. The "kids" passed from mouthto mouth, and were soon emptied. 

The next morning, when the sentry's back was turned, someone, whom wetook for an English sailor, tossed over a few oranges, the rinds ofwhich we afterward used for cups. 

On the second day nothing happened worthy of record. On the third, wewere amused by the following scene. 

A man, whom we supposed a boatswain's mate, from the silver whistlehanging from his neck, came below, driving before him a couple ofblubbering boys, and followed by a whole troop of youngsters intears. The pair, it seemed, were sent down to be punished by commandof an officer; the rest had accompanied them out of sympathy. 

The boatswain's mate went to work without delay, seizing the poorlittle culprits by their loose frocks, and using a ratan withoutmercy. The other boys wept, clasped their hands, and fell on theirknees; but in vain; the boatswain's mate only hit out at them; oncein a while making them yell ten times louder than ever. 

In the midst of the tumult, down comes a midshipman, who, with a greatair, orders the man on deck, and running in among the bows, sets themto scampering in all directions. 

The whole of this proceeding was regarded with infinite scorn by NavyBob, who, years before, had been captain of the foretop on board aline-of-battle ship. In his estimation, it was a lubberly piece ofbusiness throughout: they did things differently in the English navy. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

THE REINE BLANCHE

I CANNOT forbear a brief reflection upon the scene ending the lastchapter. 

The ratanning of the young culprits, although significant of theimperfect discipline of a French man-of-war, may also be consideredas in some measure characteristic of the nation. 

In an American or English ship, a boy when flogged is either lashed tothe breech of a gun, or brought right up to the gratings, the sameway the men are. But as a general rule, he is never punished beyondhis strength. You seldom or never draw a cry from the young rogue. Hebites his tongue and stands up to it like a hero. If practicable(which is not always the case), he makes a point of smiling under theoperation. And so far from his companions taking any compassion onhim, they always make merry over his misfortunes. Should he turn babyand cry, they are pretty sure to give him afterward a sly pounding insome dark corner. 

This tough training produces its legitimate results. The boy becomes, in time, a thoroughbred tar, equally ready to strip and take a dozenon board his own ship, or, cutlass in hand, dash pell-mell on boardthe enemy's. Whereas the young Frenchman, as all the world knows, makes but an indifferent seaman; and though, for the most part, hefights well enough, somehow or other he seldom fights well enough tobeat. 

How few sea-battles have the French ever won! But more: how few shipshave they ever carried by the board--that true criterion of navalcourage! But not a word against French bravery--there is plenty ofit; but not of the right sort. A Yankee's, or an Englishman's, is thedownright Waterloo "game. " The French fight better on land; and notbeing essentially a maritime people, they ought to stay there. Thebest of shipwrights, they are no sailors. 

And this carries me back to the Reine Blanche, as noble a specimen ofwhat wood and iron can make as ever floated. 

She was a new ship: the present her maiden cruise. The greatest painshaving been taken in her construction, she was accounted the "crack"craft in the French navy. She is one of the heavy sixty-gun frigatesnow in vogue all over the world, and which we Yankees were the firstto introduce. In action these are the most murderous vessels everlaunched. 

The model of the Reine Blanche has all that warlike comeliness only tobe seen in a fine fighting ship. Still, there is a good deal ofFrench flummery about her--brass plates and other gewgaws stuck onall over, like baubles on a handsome woman. 

Among other things, she carries a stern gallery resting on theuplifted hands of two Caryatides, larger than life. You step out uponthis from the commodore's cabin. To behold the rich hangings, andmirrors, and mahogany within, one is almost prepared to see a bevy ofladies trip forth on the balcony for an airing. 

But come to tread the gun-deck, and all thoughts like these are put toflight. Such batteries of thunderbolt hurlers! with asixty-eight-pounder or two thrown in as make-weights. On the spar-deck, also, are carronades of enormous calibre. 

Recently built, this vessel, of course, had the benefit of the latestimprovements. I was quite amazed to see on what high principles ofart some exceedingly simple things were done. But your Gaul isscientific about everything; what other people accomplish by a fewhard knocks, he delights in achieving by a complex arrangement of thepulley, lever, and screw. 

What demi-semi-quavers in a French air! In exchanging navalcourtesies, I have known a French band play "Yankee Doodle" with sucha string of variations that no one but a "pretty 'cute" Yankee couldtell what they were at. 

In the French navy they have no marines; their men, taking turns atcarrying the musket, are sailors one moment, and soldiers the next; afellow running aloft in his line frock to-day, to-morrow standssentry at the admiral's cabin door. This is fatal to anything likeproper sailor pride. To make a man a seaman, he should be put to noother duty. Indeed, a thorough tar is unfit for anything else; andwhat is more, this fact is the best evidence of his being a truesailor. 

On board the Reine Blanche, they did not have enough to eat; and whatthey did have was not of the right sort. Instead of letting thesailors file their teeth against the rim of a hard sea-biscuit, theybaked their bread daily in pitiful little rolls. Then they had no"grog"; as a substitute, they drugged the poor fellows with a thin, sour wine--the juice of a few grapes, perhaps, to a pint of the juiceof water-faucets. Moreover, the sailors asked for meat, and theygave them soup; a rascally substitute, as they well knew. 

Ever since leaving home, they had been on "short allowance. " At thepresent time, those belonging to the boats--and thus getting anoccasional opportunity to run ashore--frequently sold their rationsof bread to some less fortunate shipmate for sixfold its real value. 

Another thing tending to promote dissatisfaction among the crew wastheir having such a devil of a fellow for a captain. He was one ofthose horrid naval bores--a great disciplinarian. In port, he keptthem constantly exercising yards and sails, and maneuvering with theboats; and at sea, they were forever at quarters; running in and outthe enormous guns, as if their arms were made for nothing else. Thenthere was the admiral aboard, also; and, no doubt, he too had apaternal eye over them. 

In the ordinary routine of duty, we could not but be struck with thelistless, slovenly behaviour of these men; there was nothing of thenational vivacity in their movements; nothing of the quick precisionperceptible on the deck of a thoroughly-disciplined armed vessel. 

All this, however, when we came to know the reason, was no matter ofsurprise; three-fourths of them were pressed men. Some old merchantsailors had been seized the very day they landed from distantvoyages; while the landsmen, of whom there were many, had been drivendown from the country in herds, and so sent to sea. 

At the time, I was quite amazed to hear of press-gangs in a day ofcomparative peace; but the anomaly is accounted for by the fact that, of late, the French have been building up a great military marine, totake the place of that which Nelson gave to the waves of the sea atTrafalgar. But it is to be hoped that they are not building theirships for the people across the channel to take. In case of a war, what a fluttering of French ensigns there would be!

Though I say the French are no sailors, I am far from seeking tounderrate them as a people. They are an ingenious and right gallantnation. And, as an American, I take pride in asserting it. 

CHAPTER XXX. 

THEY TAKE US ASHORE--WHAT HAPPENED THERE

FIVE days and nights, if I remember right, we were aboard the frigate. On the afternoon of the fifth, we were told that the next morning shesailed for Valparaiso. Rejoiced at this, we prayed for a speedypassage. But, as it turned out, the consul had no idea of letting usoff so easily. To our no small surprise, an officer came along towardnight, and ordered us out of irons. Being then mustered in thegangway, we were escorted into a cutter alongside, and pulled ashore. 

Accosted by Wilson as we struck the beach, he delivered us up to anumerous guard of natives, who at once conducted us to a house nearby. Here we were made to sit down under a shade without; and theconsul and two elderly European residents passed by us, and entered. 

After some delay, during which we were much diverted by the hilariousgood-nature of our guard--one of our number was called out for, followed by an order for him to enter the house alone. 

On returning a moment after, he told us we had little to encounter. Ithad simply been asked whether he still continued of the same mind; onreplying yes, something was put down upon a piece of paper, and hewas waved outside. All being summoned in rotation, my own turn cameat last. 

Within, Wilson and his two friends were seated magisterially at atable--an inkstand, a pen, and a sheet of paper lending quite abusiness-like air to the apartment. These three gentlemen, beingarrayed in coats and pantaloons, looked respectable, at least in acountry where complete suits of garments are so seldom met with. Onepresent essayed a solemn aspect; but having a short neck and fullface, only made out to look stupid. 

It was this individual who condescended to take a paternal interest inmyself. After declaring my resolution with respect to the shipunalterable, I was proceeding to withdraw, in compliance with a signfrom the consul, when the stranger turned round to him, saying, "Waita minute, if you please, Mr. Wilson; let me talk to that youth. Comehere, my young friend: I'm extremely sorry to see you associated withthese bad men; do you know what it will end in?"

"Oh, that's the lad that wrote the Round Robin, " interposed theconsul. "He and that rascally doctor are at the bottom of the wholeaffair--go outside, sir. "

I retired as from the presence of royalty; backing out with manybows. 

The evident prejudice of Wilson against both the doctor and myself wasby no means inexplicable. A man of any education before the mast isalways looked upon with dislike by his captain; and, never mind howpeaceable he may be, should any disturbance arise, from hisintellectual superiority, he is deemed to exert an underhandinfluence against the officers. 

Little as I had seen of Captain Guy, the few glances cast upon meafter being on board a week or so were sufficient to reveal hisenmity--a feeling quickened by my undisguised companionship with LongGhost, whom he both feared and cordially hated. Guy's relations withthe consul readily explains the latter's hostility. 

The examination over, Wilson and his friends advanced to the doorway;when the former, assuming a severe expression, pronounced ourperverseness infatuation in the extreme. Nor was there any hope left:our last chance for pardon was gone. Even were we to become contriteand crave permission to return to duty, it would not now bepermitted. 

"Oh! get along with your gammon, counsellor, " exclaimed Black Dan, absolutely indignant that his understanding should be thus insulted. 

Quite enraged, Wilson bade him hold his peace; and then, summoning afat old native to his side, addressed him in Tahitian, givingdirections for leading us away to a place of safe keeping. 

Hereupon, being marshalled in order, with the old man at our head, wewere put in motion, with loud shouts, along a fine pathway, runningfar on through wide groves of the cocoa-nut and bread-fruit. 

The rest of our escort trotted on beside us in high good-humour;jabbering broken English, and in a hundred ways giving us tounderstand that Wilson was no favourite of theirs, and that we wereprime, good fellows for holding out as we did. They seemed to knowour whole history. 

The scenery around was delightful. The tropical day was fast drawingto a close; and from where we were, the sun looked like a vast redfire burning in the woodlands--its rays falling aslant through theendless ranks of trees, and every leaf fringed with flame. Escapedfrom the confined decks of the frigate, the air breathed spices tous; streams were heard flowing; green boughs were rocking; and farinland, all sunset flushed, rose the still, steep peaks of theisland. 

As we proceeded, I was more and more struck by the picturesqueness ofthe wide, shaded road. In several places, durable bridges of woodwere thrown over large water-courses; others were spanned by a singlearch of stone. In any part of the road, three horsemen might haveridden abreast. 

This beautiful avenue--by far the best thing which civilization hasdone for the island--is called by foreigners "the Broom Road, " thoughfor what reason I do not know. Originally planned for the convenienceof the missionaries journeying from one station to another, it almostcompletely encompasses the larger peninsula; skirting for a distanceof at least sixty miles along the low, fertile lands bordering thesea. But on the side next Taiarboo, or the lesser peninsula, itsweeps through a narrow, secluded valley, and thus crosses the islandin that direction. 

The uninhabited interior, being almost impenetrable from thedensely-wooded glens, frightful precipices, and sharp mountain ridgesabsolutely inaccessible, is but little known, even to the nativesthemselves; and so, instead of striking directly across from onevillage to another, they follow the Broom Road round and round. 

It is by no means, however, altogether travelled on foot; horses beingnow quite plentiful. They were introduced from Chili; and possessingall the gaiety, fleetness, and docility of the Spanish breed, areadmirably adapted to the tastes of the higher classes, who asequestrians have become very expert. The missionaries and chiefsnever think of journeying except in the saddle; and at all hours ofthe day you see the latter galloping along at full speed. Like theSandwich Islanders, they ride like Pawnee-Loups. 

For miles and miles I have travelled the Broom Road, and never weariedof the continual change of scenery. But wherever it leadsyou--whether through level woods, across grassy glens, or over hillswaving with palms--the bright blue sea on one side, and the greenmountain pinnacles on the other, are always in sight. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE

ABOUT a mile from the village we came to a halt. 

It was a beautiful spot. A mountain stream here flowed at the foot ofa verdant slope; on one hand, it murmured along until the waters, spreading themselves upon a beach of small, sparkling shells, trickled into the sea; on the other was a long defile, where the eyepursued a gleaming, sinuous thread, lost in shade and verdure. 

The ground next the road was walled in by a low, rude parapet ofstones; and, upon the summit of the slope beyond, was a large, nativehouse, the thatch dazzling white, and in shape an oval. 

"Calabooza! Calabooza Beretanee!" (the English Jail), cried ourconductor, pointing to the building. 

For a few months past, having been used by the consul as a house ofconfinement for his refractory sailors, it was thus styled todistinguish it from similar places in and about Papeetee. 

Though extremely romantic in appearance, on a near approach it provedhut ill adapted to domestic comfort. In short, it was a mere shell, recently built, and still unfinished. It was open all round, andtufts of grass were growing here and there under the very roof. Theonly piece of furniture was the "stocks, " a clumsy machine forkeeping people in one place, which, I believe, is pretty much out ofdate in most countries. It is still in use, however, among theSpaniards in South America; from whom, it seems, the Tahitians haveborrowed the contrivance, as well as the name by which all places ofconfinement are known among them. 

The stocks were nothing more than two stout timbers, about twenty feetin length, and precisely alike. One was placed edgeways on theground, and the other, resting on top, left, at regular intervalsalong the seam, several round holes, the object of which was evidentat a glance. 

By this time, our guide had informed us that he went by the name of"Capin Bob" (Captain Bob); and a hearty old Bob he proved. It wasjust the name for him. From the first, so pleased were we with theold man that we cheerfully acquiesced in his authority. 

Entering the building, he set us about fetching heaps of dry leaves tospread behind the stocks for a couch. A trunk of a small cocoa-nuttree was then placed for a bolster--rather a hard one, but thenatives are used to it. For a pillow, they use a little billet ofwood, scooped out, and standing on four short legs--a sort ofhead-stool. 

These arrangements completed, Captain Bob proceeded to "hanna-par, " orsecure us, for the night. The upper timber of the machine beinglifted at one end, and our ankles placed in the semicircular spacesof the lower one, the other beam was then, dropped; both beingfinally secured together by an old iron hoop at either extremity. This initiation was performed to the boisterous mirth of the natives, and diverted ourselves not a little. 

Captain Bob now bustled about, like an old woman seeing the childrento bed. A basket of baked "taro, " or Indian turnip, was brought in, and we were given a piece all round. Then a great counterpane ofcoarse, brown "tappa, " was stretched over the whole party; and, aftersundry injunctions to "moee-moee, " and be "maitai"--in other words, to go to sleep, and be good boys--we were left to ourselves, fairlyput to bed and tucked in. 

Much talk was now had concerning our prospects in life; but the doctorand I, who lay side by side, thinking the occasion better adapted tomeditation, kept pretty silent; and, before long, the rest ceasedconversing, and, wearied with loss of rest on board the frigate, weresoon sound asleep. 

After sliding from one reverie into another, I started, and gave thedoctor a pinch. He was dreaming, however; and, resolved to follow hisexample, I troubled him no more. 

How the rest managed, I know not; but for my own part, I found it veryhard to get to sleep. The consciousness of having one's foot pinned;and the impossibility of getting it anywhere else than just where itwas, was most distressing. 

But this was not all: there was no way of lying but straight on yourback; unless, to be sure, one's limb went round and round in theankle, like a swivel. Upon getting into a sort of doze, it was nowonder this uneasy posture gave me the nightmare. Under the delusionthat I was about some gymnastics or other, I gave my unfortunatemember such a twitch that I started up with the idea that someone wasdragging the stocks away. 

Captain Bob and his friends lived in a little hamlet hard by; and whenmorning showed in the East, the old gentleman came forth from thatdirection likewise, emerging from a grove, and saluting us loudly ashe approached. 

Finding everybody awake, he set us at liberty; and, leading us down tothe stream, ordered every man to strip and bathe. 

"All han's, my boy, hanna-hanna, wash!" he cried. Bob was a linguist, and had been to sea in his day, as he many a time afterwards told us. 

At this moment, we were all alone with him; and it would have been theeasiest thing in the world to have given him the slip; but he seemedto have no idea of such a thing; treating us so frankly andcordially, indeed, that even had we thought of running, we shouldhave been ashamed of attempting it. He very well knew, nevertheless(as we ourselves were not slow in finding out), that, for variousreasons, any attempt of the kind, without some previously arrangedplan for leaving the island, would be certain to fail. 

As Bob was a rare one every way, I must give some account of him. There was a good deal of "personal appearance" about him; in short, he was a corpulent giant, over six feet in height, and literally asbig round as a hogshead. The enormous bulk of some of the Tahitianshas been frequently spoken of by voyagers. 

Beside being the English consul's jailer, as it were, he carried on alittle Tahitian farming; that is to say, he owned several groves ofthe bread-fruit and palm, and never hindered their growing. Close bywas a "taro" patch of his which he occasionally visited. 

Bob seldom disposed of the produce of his lands; it was all needed fordomestic consumption. Indeed, for gormandizing, I would have matchedhim against any three common-council men at a civic feast. 

A friend of Bob's told me that, owing to his voraciousness, his visitsto other parts of the island were much dreaded; for, according toTahitian customs, hospitality without charge is enjoined uponeveryone; and though it is reciprocal in most cases, in Bob's it wasalmost out of the question. The damage done to a native larder in oneof his morning calls was more than could be made good by hisentertainer's spending the holidays with them. 

The old man, as I have hinted, had, once upon a time, been a cruise ortwo in a whaling-vessel; and, therefore, he prided himself upon hisEnglish. Having acquired what he knew of it in the forecastle, hetalked little else than sailor phrases, which sounded whimsicallyenough. 

I asked him one day how old he was. "Olee?" he exclaimed, looking veryprofound in consequence of thoroughly understanding so subtile aquestion--"Oh! very olee--'tousand 'ear--more--big man when CapinTootee (Captain Cook) heavey in sight. " (In sea parlance, came intoview. )

This was a thing impossible; but adapting my discourse to the man, Irejoined--"Ah! you see Capin Tootee--well, how you like him?"

"Oh! he maitai: (good) friend of me, and know my wife. "

On my assuring him strongly that he could not have been born at thetime, he explained himself by saying that he was speaking of hisfather, all the while. This, indeed, might very well have been. 

It is a curious fact that all these people, young and old, will tellyou that they have enjoyed the honour of a personal acquaintance withthe great navigator; and if you listen to them, they will go on andtell anecdotes without end. This springs from nothing but their greatdesire to please; well knowing that a more agreeable topic for awhite man could not be selected. As for the anachronism of the thing, they seem to have no idea of it: days and years are all the same tothem. 

After our sunrise bath, Bob once more placed us in the stocks, almostmoved to tears at subjecting us to so great a hardship; but he couldnot treat us otherwise, he said, on pain of the consul's displeasure. How long we were to be confined, he did not know; nor what was to bedone with us in the end. 

As noon advanced, and no signs of a meal were visible, someoneinquired whether we were to be boarded, as well as lodged, at theHotel de Calabooza?

"Vast heavey" (avast heaving, or wait a bit)--said Bob--"kow-kow"(food) "come ship by by. "

And, sure enough, along comes Rope Tarn with a wooden bucket of theJulia's villainous biscuit. With a grin, he said it was a presentfrom Wilson: it was all we were to get that day. A great cry was nowraised; and well was it for the land-lubber that lie had a pair oflegs, and the men could not use theirs. One and all, we resolved notto touch the bread, come what come might; and so we told the natives. 

Being extravagantly fond of ship-biscuit--the harder the better--theywere quite overjoyed; and offered to give us, every day, a smallquantity of baked bread-fruit and Indian turnip in exchange for thebread. This we agreed to; and every morning afterward, when thebucket came, its contents were at once handed over to Bob and hisfriends, who never ceased munching until nightfall. 

Our exceedingly frugal meal of bread-fruit over, Captain Bob waddledup to us with a couple of long poles hooked at one end, and severallarge baskets of woven cocoa-nut branches. 

Not far off was an extensive grove of orange-trees in full bearing;and myself and another were selected to go with him, and gather asupply for the party. When we went in among the trees, thesumptuousness of the orchard was unlike anything I had ever seen;while the fragrance shaken from the gently waving boughs regaled oursenses most delightfully. 

In many places the trees formed a dense shade, spreading overhead adark, rustling vault, groined with boughs, and studded here and therewith the ripened spheres, like gilded balls. In several places, theoverladen branches were borne to the earth, hiding the trunk in atent of foliage. Once fairly in the grove, we could see nothing else;it was oranges all round. 

To preserve the fruit from bruising, Bob, hooking the twigs with hispole, let them fall into his basket. But this would not do for us. Seizing hold of a bough, we brought such a shower to the ground thatour old friend was fain to run from under. Heedless of remonstrance, we then reclined in the shade, and feasted to our heart's content. Heaping up the baskets afterwards, we returned to our comrades, bywhom our arrival was hailed with loud plaudits; and in a marvellouslyshort time, nothing was left of the oranges we brought but the rinds. 

While inmates of the Calabooza, we had as much of the fruit as wewanted; and to this cause, and others that might be mentioned, may beascribed the speedy restoration of our sick to comparative health. 

The orange of Tahiti is delicious--small and sweet, with a thin, dryrind. Though now abounding, it was unknown before Cook's time, towhom the natives are indebted for so great a blessing. He likewiseintroduced several other kinds of fruit; among these were the fig, pineapple, and lemon, now seldom met with. The lime still grows, andsome of the poorer natives express the juice to sell to the shipping. It is highly valued as an anti-scorbutic. Nor was the variety offoreign fruits and vegetables which were introduced the only benefitconferred by the first visitors to the Society group. Cattle andsheep were left at various places. More of them anon. 

Thus, after all that of late years has been done for these islanders, Cook and Vancouver may, in one sense at least, be considered theirgreatest benefactors. 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI

AS I happened to arrive at the island at a very interesting period inits political affairs, it may be well to give some little accounthere of the proceedings of the French, by way of episode to thenarrative. My information was obtained at the time from the generalreports then rife among the natives, as well as from what I learnedupon a subsequent visit, and reliable accounts which I have seensince reaching home. 

It seems that for some time back the French had been making repeatedineffectual attempts to plant a Roman Catholic mission here. But, invariably treated with contumely, they sometimes met with openviolence; and, in every case, those directly concerned in theenterprise were ultimately forced to depart. In one instance, twopriests, Laval and Caset, after enduring a series of persecutions, were set upon by the natives, maltreated, and finally carried aboarda small trading schooner, which eventually put them ashore at Wallis'island--a savage place--some two thousand miles to the westward. 

Now, that the resident English missionaries authorized the banishmentof these priests is a fact undenied by themselves. I was alsorepeatedly informed that by their inflammatory harangues theyinstigated the riots which preceded the sailing of the schooner. Atall events, it is certain that their unbounded influence with thenatives would easily have enabled them to prevent everything thattook place on this occasion, had they felt so inclined. 

Melancholy as such an example of intolerance on the part of Protestantmissionaries must appear, it is not the only one, and by no means themost flagrant, which might be presented. But I forbear to mention anyothers; since they have been more than hinted at by recent voyagers, and their repetition here would perhaps be attended with no goodeffect. Besides, the conduct of the Sandwich Island missionaries inparticular has latterly much amended in this respect. 

The treatment of the two priests formed the principal ground (and theonly justifiable one) upon which Du Petit Thouars demandedsatisfaction; and which subsequently led to his seizure of theisland. In addition to other things, he also charged that the flag ofMerenhout, the consul, had been repeatedly insulted, and the propertyof a certain French resident violently appropriated by thegovernment. In the latter instance, the natives were perfectly in theright. At that time, the law against the traffic in ardent spirits(every now and then suspended and revived) happened to be in force;and finding a large quantity on the premises of Victor, a low, knavish adventurer from Marseilles, the Tahitians pronounced itforfeit. 

For these, and similar alleged outrages, a large pecuniary restitutionwas demanded (10, 000 dollars), which there being no exchequer tosupply, the island was forthwith seized, under cover of a mocktreaty, dictated to the chiefs on the gun-deck of Du Petit Thouars'frigate. 

But, notwithstanding this formality, there seems now little doubt thatthe downfall of the Pomarees was decided upon at the Tuilleries. 

After establishing the Protectorate, so called, the rear-admiralsailed; leaving M. Bruat governor, assisted by Reine and Carpegne, civilians, named members of the Council of Government, and Merenhout, the consul, now made Commissioner Royal. No soldiers, however, werelanded until several months afterward. As men, Reine and Carpegnewere not disliked by the natives; but Bruat and Merenhout theybitterly detested. In several interviews with the poor queen, theunfeeling governor sought to terrify her into compliance with hisdemands; clapping his hand upon his sword, shaking his fist in herface, and swearing violently. "Oh, king of a great nation, " saidPomaree, in her letter to Louis Philippe, "fetch away this man; I andmy people cannot endure his evil doings. He is a shameless man. "

Although the excitement among the natives did not wholly subside uponthe rear-admiral's departure, no overt act of violence immediatelyfollowed. The queen had fled to Imeeo; and the dissensions among thechiefs, together with the ill-advised conduct of the missionaries, prevented a union upon some common plan of resistance. But the greatbody of the people, as well as their queen, confidently relied uponthe speedy interposition of England--a nation bound to them by manyties, and which, more than once, had solemnly guaranteed theirindependence. 

As for the missionaries, they openly defied the French governor, childishly predicting fleets and armies from Britain. But what is thewelfare of a spot like Tahiti to the mighty interests of France andEngland! There was a remonstrance on one side, and a reply on theother; and there the matter rested. For once in their brawling lives, St. George and St. Denis were hand and glove; and they were notgoing to cross sabres about Tahiti. 

During my stay upon the island, so far as I could see, there waslittle to denote that any change had taken place in the government. 

Such laws as they had were administered the same as ever; themissionaries went about unmolested, and comparative tranquillityeverywhere prevailed. Nevertheless, I sometimes heard the nativesinveighing against the French (no favourites, by the bye, throughoutPolynesia), and bitterly regretting that the queen had not, at theoutset, made a stand. 

In the house of the chief Adeea, frequent discussions took placeconcerning the ability of the island to cope with the French: thenumber of fighting men and muskets among the natives were talked of, as well as the propriety of fortifying several heights overlookingPapeetee. Imputing these symptoms to the mere resentment of a recentoutrage, and not to any determined spirit of resistance, I littleanticipated the gallant, though useless warfare, so soon to follow mydeparture. 

At a period subsequent to my first visit, the island, which before wasdivided into nineteen districts, with a native chief over each, incapacity of governor and judge, was, by Bruat, divided into four. Over these he set as many recreant chiefs, Kitoti, Tati, Utamai, andParaita; to whom he paid 1000 dollars each, to secure theirassistance in carrying out his evil designs. 

The first blood shed, in any regular conflict, was at Mahanar, uponthe peninsula of Taraiboo. The fight originated in the seizure of anumber of women from the shore by men belonging to one of the Frenchvessels of war. In this affair, the islanders fought desperately, killing about fifty of the enemy, and losing ninety of their ownnumber. The French sailors and marines, who, at the time, werereported to be infuriated with liquor, gave no quarter; and thesurvivors only saved themselves by fleeing to the mountains. Subsequently, the battles of Hararparpi and Fararar were fought, inwhich the invaders met with indifferent success. 

Shortly after the engagement at Hararparpi, three Frenchmen werewaylaid in a pass of the valleys, and murdered by the incensednatives. One was Lefevre, a notorious scoundrel, and a spy, whomBruat had sent to conduct a certain Major Fergus (said to be a Pole)to the hiding-place of four chiefs, whom the governor wished to seizeand execute. This circumstance violently inflamed the hostility ofboth parties. 

About this time, Kitoti, a depraved chief, and the pliant tool ofBruat, was induced by him to give a great feast in the Vale of Paree, to which all his countrymen were invited. The governor's object wasto gain over all he could to his interests; he supplied an abundanceof wine and brandy, and a scene of bestial intoxication was thenatural consequence. Before it came to this, however, several speecheswere made by the islanders. One of these, delivered by an agedwarrior, who had formerly been at the head of the celebrated AeoraiSociety, was characteristic. "This is a very good feast, " said thereeling old man, "and the wine also is very good; but you evil-mindedWee-Wees (French), and you false-hearted men of Tahiti, are all verybad. "

By the latest accounts, most of the islanders still refuse to submitto the French; and what turn events may hereafter take, it is hard topredict. At any rate, these disorders must accelerate the finalextinction of their race. 

Along with the few officers left by Du Petit Thouars were severalFrench priests, for whose unobstructed exertions in the disseminationof their faith, the strongest guarantees were provided by an articleof the treaty. But no one was bound to offer them facilities; muchless a luncheon, the first day they went ashore. True, they hadplenty of gold; but to the natives it was anathema--taboo--and, forseveral hours and some odd minutes, they would not touch it. Emissaries of the Pope and the devil, as the strangers wereconsidered--the smell of sulphur hardly yet shaken out of theircanonicals--what islander would venture to jeopardize his soul, andcall down a blight on his breadfruit, by holding any intercourse withthem! That morning the priests actually picknicked in grove ofcocoa-nut trees; but, before night, Christian hospitality--inexchange for a commercial equivalent of hard dollars--was given themin an adjoining house. 

Wanting in civility, as the conduct of the English missionaries may bethought, in withholding a decent reception to these persons, thelatter were certainly to blame in needlessly placing themselves inso unpleasant a predicament. Under far better auspices, they mighthave settled upon some one of the thousand unconverted isles of thePacific, rather than have forced themselves thus upon a peoplealready professedly Christians. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

WE RECEIVE CALLS AT THE HOTEL DE CALABOOZA

OUR place of confinement being open all round, and so near the BroomRoad, of course we were in plain sight of everybody passing; and, therefore, we had no lack of visitors among such an idle, inquisitiveset as the Tahitians. For a few days, they were coming and goingcontinually; while, thus ignobly fast by the foot, we were fain togive passive audience. 

During this period, we were the lions of the neighbourhood; and, nodoubt, strangers from the distant villages were taken to see the"Karhowrees" (white men), in the same way that countrymen, in a city, are gallanted to the Zoological Gardens. 

All this gave us a fine opportunity of making observations. I waspainfully struck by the considerable number of sickly or deformedpersons; undoubtedly made so by a virulent complaint, which, undernative treatment, almost invariably affects, in the end, the musclesand bones of the body. In particular, there is a distortion of theback, most unsightly to behold, originating in a horrible form of themalady. 

Although this, and other bodily afflictions, were unknown before thediscovery of the islands by the whites, there are several cases foundof the Pa-Fa, or Elephantiasis--a native disease, which seems to haveprevailed among them from the earliest antiquity. Affecting the legsand feet alone, it swells them, in some instances, to the girth of aman's body, covering the skin with scales. It might be supposed thatone, thus afflicted, would be incapable of walking; but, to allappearance, they seem to be nearly as active as anybody; apparentlysuffering no pain, and bearing the calamity with a degree ofcheerfulness truly marvellous. 

The Fa-Fa is very gradual in its approaches, and years elapse beforethe limb is fully swollen. Its origin is ascribed by the natives tovarious causes; but the general impression seems to be that itarises, in most cases, from the eating of unripe bread-fruit andIndian turnip. So far as I could find out, it is not hereditary. In nostage do they attempt a cure; the complaint being held incurable. 

Speaking of the Fa-Fa reminds me of a poor fellow, a sailor, whom Iafterward saw at Roorootoo, a lone island, some two days' sail fromTahiti. 

The island is very small, and its inhabitants nearly extinct. We senta boat off to see whether any yams were to be had, as, formerly, theyams of Roorootoo were as famous among the islands round about, asSicily oranges in the Mediterranean. Going ashore, to my surprise, Iwas accosted, near a little shanty of a church, by a white man, wholimped forth from a wretched hut. His hair and beard were unshorn, his face deadly pale and haggard, and one limb swelled with the Fa-Fato an incredible bigness. This was the first instance of a foreignersuffering from it that I had ever seen, or heard of; and thespectacle shocked me accordingly. 

He had been there for years. From the first symptoms, he could notbelieve his complaint to be what it really was, and trusted it wouldsoon disappear. But when it became plain that his only chance forrecovery was a speedy change of climate, no ship would receive him asa sailor: to think of being taken as a passenger was idle. Thisspeaks little for the humanity of sea captains; but the truth is thatthose in the Pacific have little enough of the virtue; and, nowadays, when so many charitable appeals are made to them, they have becomecallous. 

I pitied the poor fellow from the bottom of my heart; but nothingcould I do, as our captain was inexorable. "Why, " said he, "here weare--started on a six months' cruise--I can't put back; and he isbetter off on the island than at sea. So on Roorootoo he must die. "And probably he did. 

I afterwards heard of this melancholy object, from two seamen. Hisattempts to leave were still unavailing, and his hard fate was fastclosing in. 

Notwithstanding the physical degeneracy of the Tahitians as a people, among the chiefs, individuals of personable figures are stillfrequently met with; and, occasionally, majestic-looking men, anddiminutive women as lovely as the nymphs who, nearly a century ago, swam round the ships of Wallis. In these instances, Tahitian beautyis quite as seducing as it proved to the crew of the Bounty; theyoung girls being just such creatures as a poet would picture in thetropics--soft, plump, and dreamy-eyed. 

The natural complexion of both sexes is quite light; but the malesappear much darker, from their exposure to the sun. A darkcomplexion, however, in a man, is highly esteemed, as indicatingstrength of both body and soul. Hence there is a saying, of greatantiquity among them. 

"If dark the cheek of the mother, The son will sound the war-conch; Ifstrong her frame, he will give laws. "

With this idea of manliness, no wonder the Tahitians regarded all paleand tepid-looking Europeans as weak and feminine; whereas, a sailor, with a cheek like the breast of a roast turkey, is held a lad ofbrawn: to use their own phrase, a "taata tona, " or man of bones. 

Speaking of bones recalls an ugly custom of theirs, now obsolete--thatof making fish-hooks and gimlets out of those of their enemies. Thisbeats the Scandinavians turning people's skulls into cups andsaucers. 

But to return to the Calabooza Beretanee. Immense was the interest weexcited among the throngs that called there; they would stand talkingabout us by the hour, growing most unnecessarily excited too, anddancing up and down with all the vivacity of their race. Theyinvariably sided with us; flying out against the consul, anddenouncing him as "Ita maitai nuee, " or very bad exceedingly. Theymust have borne him some grudge or other. 

Nor were the women, sweet souls, at all backward in visiting. Indeed, they manifested even more interest than the men; gazing at us witheyes full of a thousand meanings, and conversing with marvellousrapidity. But, alas! inquisitive though they were, and, doubtless, taking some passing compassion on us, there was little real feelingin them after all, and still less sentimental sympathy. Many of themlaughed outright at us, noting only what was ridiculous in ourplight. 

I think it was the second day of our confinement that a wild, beautiful girl burst into the Calabooza, and, throwing herself intoan arch attitude, stood afar off, and gazed at us. She was aheartless one:--tickled to death with Black Dan's nursing his chafedankle, and indulging in certain moral reflections on the consul andCaptain Guy. After laughing her fill at him, she condescended tonotice the rest; glancing from one to another in the most methodicaland provoking manner imaginable. Whenever anything struck hercomically, you saw it like a flash--her finger levelledinstantaneously, and, flinging herself back, she gave loose tostrange, hollow little notes of laughter, that sounded like the bassof a music-box, playing a lively air with the lid down. 

Now, I knew not that there was anything in my own appearancecalculated to disarm ridicule; and indeed, to have looked at allheroic, under the circumstances, would have been rather difficult. Still, I could not but feel exceedingly annoyed at the prospect ofbeing screamed at, in turn, by this mischievous young witch, eventhough she were but an islander. And, to tell a secret, her beautyhad something to do with this sort of feeling; and, pinioned as I wasto a log, and clad most unbecomingly, I began to grow sentimental. 

Ere her glance fell upon me, I had, unconsciously, thrown myself intothe most graceful attitude I could assume, leaned my head upon myhand, and summoned up as abstracted an expression as possible. Thoughmy face was averted, I soon felt it flush, and knew that the glancewas on me; deeper and deeper grew the flush, and not a sound oflaughter. 

Delicious thought! she was moved at the sight of me. I could stand itno longer, but started up. Lo! there she was; her great hazel eyesrounding and rounding in her head, like two stars, her whole frame ina merry quiver, and an expression about the mouth that was sudden andviolent death to anything like sentiment. 

The next moment she spun round, and, bursting from peal to peal oflaughter, went racing out of the Calabooza; and, in mercy to me, never returned. 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA

A FEW days passed; and, at last, our docility was rewarded by someindulgence on the part of Captain Bob. 

He allowed the entire party to be at large during the day; onlyenjoining upon us always to keep within hail. This, to be sure, wasin positive disobedience to Wilson's orders; and so, care had to betaken that he should not hear of it. There was little fear of thenatives telling him; but strangers travelling the Broom Road might. Byway of precaution, boys were stationed as scouts along the road. Atsight of a white man, they sounded the alarm! when we all made forour respective holes (the stocks being purposely left open): the beamthen descended, and we were prisoners. As soon as the traveller wasout of sight, of course, we were liberated. 

Notwithstanding the regular supply of food which we obtained fromCaptain Bob and his friends, it was so small that we often felt mostintolerably hungry. We could not blame them for not bringing us more, for we soon became aware that they had to pinch themselves in orderto give us what they did; besides, they received nothing for theirkindness but the daily bucket of bread. 

Among a people like the Tahitians, what we call "hard times" can onlybe experienced in the scarcity of edibles; yet, so destitute are manyof the common people that this most distressing consequence ofcivilization may be said, with them, to be ever present. To be sure, the natives about the Calabooza had abundance of limes and oranges;but what were these good for, except to impart a still keener edge toappetites which there was so little else to gratify? During the heightof the bread-fruit season, they fare better; but, at other times, thedemands of the shipping exhaust the uncultivated resources of theisland; and the lands being mostly owned by the chiefs, the inferiororders have to suffer for their cupidity. Deprived of their nets, manyof them would starve. 

As Captain Bob insensibly remitted his watchfulness, and we began tostroll farther and farther from the Calabooza, we managed, by asystematic foraging upon the country round about, to make up some ofour deficiencies. And fortunate it was that the houses of thewealthier natives were just as open to us as those of the mostdestitute; we were treated as kindly in one as the other. 

Once in a while, we came in at the death of a chiefs pig; the noise ofwhose slaughtering was generally to be heard at a great distance. Anoccasion like this gathers the neighbours together, and they have abit of a feast, where a stranger is always welcome. A good loudsqueal, therefore, was music in our ears. It showed something goingon in that direction. 

Breaking in upon the party tumultuously, as we did, we always createda sensation. Sometimes, we found the animal still alive andstruggling; in which case, it was generally dropped at our approach. 

To provide for these emergencies, Flash Jack generally repaired to thescene of operations with a sheath-knife between his teeth, and a clubin his hand. Others were exceedingly officious in singeing off thebristles, and disembowelling. Doctor Long Ghost and myself, however, never meddled with these preliminaries, but came to the feast itselfwith unimpaired energies. 

Like all lank men, my long friend had an appetite of his own. Othersoccasionally went about seeking what they might devour, but he wasalways on the alert. 

He had an ingenious way of obviating an inconvenience which we allexperienced at times. The islanders seldom use salt with their food;so he begged Rope Yarn to bring him some from the ship; also a littlepepper, if he could; which, accordingly, was done. This he placed ina small leather wallet--a "monkey bag" (so called by sailors)--usuallyworn as a purse about the neck. 

"In my opinion, " said Long Ghost, as he tucked the wallet out ofsight, "it behooves a stranger, in Tahiti, to have his knife inreadiness, and his castor slung. "

CHAPTER XXXV. 

VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE

WE had not been many days ashore, when Doctor Johnson was espiedcoming along the Broom Road. 

We had heard that he meditated a visit, and suspected what he wasafter. Being upon the consul's hands, all our expenses were of coursepayable by him in his official capacity; and, therefore, as a friendof Wilson, and sure of good pay, the shore doctor had some idea ofallowing us to run up a bill with him. True, it was rather awkward toask us to take medicines which, on board the ship, he told us werenot needed. However, he resolved to put a bold face on the matter, andgive us a call. 

His approach was announced by one of the scouts, upon which someonesuggested that we should let him enter, and then put him in thestocks. But Long Ghost proposed better sport. What it was, we shallpresently see. 

Very bland and amiable, Doctor Johnson advanced, and, resting his caneon the stocks, glanced to right and left, as we lay before him. "Well, my lads"--he began--"how do you find yourselves to-day?"

Looking very demure, the men made some rejoinder; and he went on. 

"Those poor fellows I saw the other day--the sick, I mean--how arethey?" and he scrutinized the company. At last, he singled out onewho was assuming a most unearthly appearance, and remarked that helooked as if he were extremely ill. "Yes, " said the sailor dolefully, "I'm afeard, doctor, I'll soon be losing the number of my mess!" (asea phrase, for departing this life) and he closed his eyes, andmoaned. 

"What does he say?" said Johnson, turning round eagerly. 

"Why, " exclaimed Flash Jack, who volunteered as interpreter, "hemeans he's going to croak" (die). 

"Croak! and what does that mean, applied to a patient?"

"Oh! I understand, " said he, when the word was explained; and hestepped over the stocks, and felt the man's pulse. 

"What's his name?" he asked, turning this time to old Navy Bob. 

"We calls him Jingling Joe, " replied that worthy. 

"Well then, men, you must take good care of poor Joseph; and I willsend him a powder, which must be taken according to the directions. Some of you know how to read, I presume?"

"That ere young cove does, " replied Bob, pointing toward the placewhere I lay, as if he were directing attention to a sail at sea. 

After examining the rest--some of whom were really invalids, butconvalescent, and others only pretending to be labouring under diversmaladies, Johnson turned round, and addressed the party. 

"Men, " said he, "if any more of you are ailing, speak up, and let meknow. By order of the consul, I'm to call every day; so if any of youare at all sick, it's my duty to prescribe for you. This suddenchange from ship fare to shore living plays the deuce with yousailors, so be cautious about eating fruit. Good-day! I'll send youthe medicines the first thing in the morning. "

Now, I am inclined to suspect that with all his want of understanding, Johnson must have had some idea that we were quizzing him. Still, that was nothing, so long as it answered his purpose; and therefore, if he did see through us, he never showed it. 

Sure enough, at the time appointed, along came a native lad with asmall basket of cocoa-nut stalks, filled with powders, pill-boxes, and-vials, each with names and directions written in a large, roundhand. The sailors, one and all, made a snatch at the collection, under the strange impression that some of the vials were seasonedwith spirits. But, asserting his privilege as physician to the firstreading of the labels, Doctor Long Ghost was at last permitted totake possession of the basket. 

The first thing lighted upon was a large vial, labelled--"ForWilliam--rub well in. "

This vial certainly had a spirituous smell; and upon handing it to thepatient, he made a summary internal application of its contents. Thedoctor looked aghast. 

There was now a mighty commotion. Powders and pills were voted meredrugs in the market, and the holders of vials were pronounced luckydogs. Johnson must have known enough of sailors to make some of hismedicines palatable--this, at least, Long Ghost suspected. Certain itwas, everyone took to the vials; if at all spicy, directions wereunheeded, their contents all going one road. 

The largest one of all, quite a bottle indeed, and having a sort ofburnt brandy odour, was labelled--"For Daniel, drink freely, anduntil relieved. " This Black Dan proceeded to do; and would have madean end of it at once, had not the bottle, after a hard struggle, beensnatched from his hands, and passed round, like a jovial decanter. The old tar had complained of the effects of an immoderate eating offruit. 

Upon calling the following morning, our physician found his preciousrow of patients reclining behind the stocks, and doing "as well ascould be expected. "

But the pills and powders were found to have been perfectly inactive:probably because none had been taken. To make them efficacious, itwas suggested that, for the future, a bottle of Pisco should be sentalong with them. According to Flash Jack's notions, unmitigatedmedical compounds were but dry stuff at the best, and neededsomething good to wash them down. 

Thus far, our own M. D. , Doctor Long Ghost, after starting the frolic, had taken no further part in it; but on the physician's third visit, he took him to one side, and had a private confabulation. What itwas, exactly, we could not tell; but from certain illustrative signsand gestures, I fancied that he was describing the symptoms of somemysterious disorganization of the vitals, which must have come onwithin the hour. Assisted by his familiarity with medical terms, heseemed to produce a marked impression. At last, Johnson went his way, promising aloud that he would send Long Ghost what he desired. 

When the medicine boy came along the following morning, the doctor wasthe first to accost him, walking off with a small purple vial. Thistime, there was little else in the basket but a case-bottle of theburnt brandy cordial, which, after much debate, was finally disposedof by someone pouring the contents, little by little, into the half ofa cocoa-nut shell, and so giving all who desired a glass. No furthermedicinal cheer remaining, the men dispersed. 

An hour or two passed, when Flash Jack directed attention to my longfriend, who, since the medicine boy left, had not been noticed tillnow. With eyes closed, he was lying behind the stocks, and Jack waslifting his arm and letting it fall as if life were extinct. Onrunning up with the rest, I at once connected the phenomenon with themysterious vial. Searching his pocket, I found it, and holding it up, it proved to be laudanum. Flash Jack, snatching it from my hand in arapture, quickly informed all present what it was; and with muchglee, proposed a nap for the company. Some of them not comprehendinghim exactly, the apparently defunct Long Ghost--who lay so still thatI a little suspected the genuineness of his sleep--was rolled about asan illustration of the virtues of the vial's contents. The ideatickled everybody mightily; and throwing themselves down, the magicdraught was passed from hand to hand. Thinking that, as a matter ofcourse, they must at once become insensible, each man, upon takinghis sip, fell back, and closed his eyes. 

There was little fear of the result, since the narcotic was equallydistributed. But, curious to see how it would operate, I raisedmyself gently after a while, and looked around. It was about noon, and perfectly still; and as we all daily took the siesta, I was notmuch surprised to find everyone quiet. Still, in one or two instances, I thought I detected a little peeping. 

Presently, I heard a footstep, and saw Doctor Johnson approaching. 

And perplexed enough did he look at the sight of his prostrate file ofpatients, plunged, apparently, in such unaccountable slumbers. 

"Daniel, " he cried, at last, punching in the side with his cane theindividual thus designated--"Daniel, my good fellow, get up! do youhear?"

But Black Dan was immovable; and he poked the next sleeper. 

"Joseph, Joseph! come, wake up! it's me, Doctor Johnson. "

But Jingling Joe, with mouth open, and eyes shut, was not to bestarted. 

"Bless my soul!" he exclaimed, with uplifted hands and cane, "what'sgot into 'em? I say, men"--he shouted, running up and down--"come tolife, men! what under the sun's the matter with you?" and he struckthe stocks, and bawled with increased vigour. 

At last he paused, folded his hands over the head of his cane, andsteadfastly gazed upon us. The notes of the nasal orchestra wererising and falling upon his ear, and a new idea suggested itself. 

"Yes, yes; the rascals must have been getting boozy. Well, it's noneof my business--I'll be off;" and off he went. 

No sooner was he out of sight, than nearly all started to their feet, and a hearty laugh ensued. 

Like myself, most of them had been watching the event from under a slyeyelid. By this time, too, Doctor Long Ghost was as wide awake asanybody. What were his reasons for taking laudanum, --if, indeed, hetook any whatever, --is best known to himself; and, as it is neithermine nor the reader's business, we will say no more about it. 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

WE ARE CARRIED BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN

WE HAD been inmates of the Calabooza Beretanee about two weeks, when, one morning, Captain Bob, coming from the bath, in a state of utternudity, brought into the building an armful of old tappa, and beganto dress to go out. 

The operation was quite simple. The tappa--of the coarsest kind--wasin one long, heavy piece; and, fastening one end to a column ofHabiscus wood supporting the Calabooza, he went off a few paces, andputting the other about his waist, wound himself right up to thepost. This unique costume, in rotundity something like a farthingale, added immensely to his large hulk; so much so that he fairly waddledin his gait. But he was only adhering to the fashion of his fathers;for, in the olden time, the "Kihee, " or big girdle, was quite themode for both sexes. Bob, despising recent innovations, still clungto it. He was a gentleman of the old school--one of the last of theKihees. 

He now told us that he had orders to take us before the consul. Nothing loth, we formed in procession; and, with the old man at ourhead, sighing and labouring like an engine, and flanked by a guard ofsome twenty natives, we started for the village. 

Arrived at the consular office, we found Wilson there, and four orfive Europeans, seated in a row facing us; probably with the view ofpresenting as judicial an appearance as possible. 

On one side was a couch, where Captain Guy reclined. He lookedconvalescent; and, as we found out, intended soon to go aboard hisship. He said nothing, but left everything to the consul. 

The latter now rose, and, drawing forth a paper from a large roll tiedwith red tape, commenced reading aloud. 

It purported to be, "the affidavit of John Jennin, first officer ofthe British Colonial Barque Julia; Guy, Master;" and proved to be along statement of matters, from the time of leaving Sydney, down toour arrival in the harbour. Though artfully drawn up so as to bearhard against every one of us, it was pretty correct in the de-. Tails; excepting that it was wholly silent as to the manifoldderelictions of the mate himself--a fact which imparted unusualsignificance to the concluding sentence, "And furthermore, thisdeponent sayeth not. "

No comments were made, although we all looked round for the mate tosee whether it was possible that he could have authorized this use ofhis name. But he was not present. 

The next document produced was the deposition of the captain himself. As on all other occasions, however, he had very little to say forhimself, and it was soon set aside. 

The third affidavit was that of the seamen remaining aboard thevessel, including the traitor Bungs, who, it seemed, had turnedship's evidence. It was an atrocious piece of exaggeration, frombeginning to end; and those who signed it could not have known whatthey were about. Certainly Wymontoo did not, though his mark wasthere. In vain the consul commanded silence during the reading of thispaper; comments were shouted out upon every paragraph. 

The affidavits read, Wilson, who, all the while, looked as stiff as apoker, solemnly drew forth the ship's articles from their tin case. This document was a discoloured, musty, bilious-looking affair, andhard to read. When finished, the consul held it up; and, pointing tothe marks of the ship's company, at the bottom, asked us, one by one, whether we acknowledged the same for our own. 

"What's the use of asking that?" said Black Dan; "Captain Guy thereknows as well as we they are. "

"Silence, sir!" said Wilson, who, intending to produce a suitableimpression by this ridiculous parade, was not a little mortified bythe old sailor's bluntness. 

A pause of a few moments now ensued; during which the bench of judgescommuned with Captain Guy, in a low tone, and the sailors canvassedthe motives of the consul in having the affidavits taken. 

The general idea seemed to be that it was done with a view of"bouncing, " or frightening us into submission. Such proved to be thecase; for Wilson, rising to his feet again, addressed us asfollows:--

"You see, men, that every preparation has been made to send you toSydney for trial. The Rosa (a small Australian schooner, lying inthe harbour) will sail for that place in the course of ten days, atfarthest. The Julia sails on a cruise this day week. Do you stillrefuse duty?"

We did. 

Hereupon the consul and captain exchanged glances; and the latterlooked bitterly disappointed. 

Presently I noticed Guy's eye upon me; and, for the first time, hespoke, and told me to come near. I stepped forward. 

"Was it not you that was taken off the island?"

"It was. "

"It was you then who owe your life to my humanity. Yet this is thegratitude of a sailor, Mr. Wilson!"

"Not so, sir. " And I at once gave him to understand that I wasperfectly acquainted with his motives in sending a boat into the bay;his crew was reduced, and he merely wished to procure the sailor whomhe expected to find there. The ship was the means of my deliverance, and no thanks to the benevolence of its captain. 

Doctor Long Ghost also had a word to say. In two masterly sentences hesummed up Captain Guy's character, to the complete satisfaction ofevery seaman present. 

Matters were now growing serious; especially as the sailors becameriotous, and talked about taking the consul and the captain back tothe Calabooza with them. 

The other judges fidgeted, and loudly commanded silence. It was atlength restored; when Wilson, for the last time addressing us, saidsomething more about the Rose and Sydney, and concluded by remindingus that a week would elapse ere the Julia sailed. 

Leaving these hints to operate for themselves, he dismissed the party, ordering Captain Bob and his friends to escort us back whence wecame. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

THE FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS

A DAY or two after the events just related, we were lounging in theCalabooza Beretanee, when we were honoured by a visit from three ofthe French Priests; and as about the only notice ever taken of us bythe English missionaries was their leaving their cards for us, in theshape of a package of tracts, we could not help thinking that theFrenchmen, in making a personal call, were at least much better bred. 

By this time they had settled themselves down quite near ourhabitation. A pleasant little stroll down the Broom Road, and arustic cross peeped through the trees; and soon you came to ascharming a place as one would wish to see: a soft knoll, planted withold breadfruit trees; in front, a savannah, sloping to a grove ofpalms, and, between these, glimpses of blue, sunny waves. 

On the summit of the knoll was a rude chapel, of bamboos; quite small, and surmounted by the cross. Between the canes, at nightfall, thenatives stole peeps at a small portable altar; a crucifix tocorrespond, and gilded candlesticks and censers. Their curiositycarried them no further; nothing could induce them to worship there. Such queer ideas as they entertained of the hated strangers. Massesand chants were nothing more than evil spells. As for the prieststhemselves, they were no better than diabolical sorcerers; like thosewho, in old times, terrified their fathers. 

Close by the chapel was a range of native houses; rented from a chief, and handsomely furnished. Here lived the priests; and verycomfortably, too. They looked sanctimonious enough abroad; but thatwent for nothing; since, at home, in their retreat, they were a clubof Friar Tucks; holding priestly wassail over many a good cup of redbrandy, and rising late in the morning. 

Pity it was they couldn't marry--pity for the ladies of the island, Imean, and the cause of morality; for what business had theecclesiastical old bachelors with such a set of trim little nativehandmaidens? These damsels were their first converts; and devotedones they were. 

The priests, as I have said before, were accounted necromancers: theappearance of two of our three visitors might have justified theconceit. 

They were little, dried-up Frenchmen, in long, straight gowns of blackcloth, and unsightly three-cornered hats--so preposterously big that, in putting them on, the reverend fathers seemed to extinguishthemselves. 

Their companion was dressed differently. He wore a sort of yellow, flannel morning gown, and a broad-brimmed Manilla hat. Large andportly, he was also hale and fifty; with a complexion like anautumnal leaf--handsome blue eyes--fine teeth, and a racy Milesianbrogue. In short, he was an Irishman; Father Murphy, by name; and, assuch, pretty well known, and very thoroughly disliked, throughout allthe Protestant missionary settlements in Polynesia. In early youth, he had been sent to a religious seminary in France; and, takingorders there, had but once or twice afterwards revisited his nativeland. 

Father Murphy marched up to us briskly; and the first words he utteredwere, to ask whether there were any of his countrymen among us. There were two of them; one, a lad of sixteen--a bright, curly-headedrascal--and, being a young Irishman, of course, his name was Pat. Theother was an ugly, and rather melancholy-looking scamp; one M'Gee, whose prospects in life had been blasted by a prematuretransportation to Sydney. This was the report, at least, though itmight have been scandal. 

In most of my shipmates were some redeeming qualities; but aboutM'Gee, there was nothing of the kind; and forced to consort with him, I could not help regretting, a thousand times, that the gallows hadbeen so tardy. As if impelled, against her will, to send him into theworld, Nature had done all she could to insure his being taken forwhat he was. About the eyes there was no mistaking him; with avillainous cast in one, they seemed suspicious of each other. 

Glancing away from him at once, the bluff priest rested his gaze onthe good-humoured face of Pat, who, with a pleasant roguishness, was"twigging" the enormous hats (or "Hytee Belteezers, " as land beaversare called by sailors), from under which, like a couple of snails, peeped the two little Frenchmen. 

Pat and the priest were both from the same town in Meath; and, whenthis was found out, there was no end to the questions of the latter. To him, Pat seemed a letter from home, and said a hundred times asmuch. 

After a long talk between these two, and a little broken English fromthe Frenchmen, our visitors took leave; but Father Murphy had hardlygone a dozen rods when back he came, inquiring whether we were inwant of anything. 

"Yes, " cried one, "something to eat. " Upon this he promised to send ussome fresh wheat bread, of his own baking; a great luxury in Tahiti. 

We all felicitated Pat upon picking up such a friend, and told him hisfortune was made. 

The next morning, a French servant of the priest's made his appearancewith a small bundle of clothing for our young Hibernian; and thepromised bread for the party. Pat being out at the knees and elbows, and, like the rest of us, not full inside, the present was acceptableall round. 

In the afternoon, Father Murphy himself came along; and, in additionto his previous gifts, gave Pat a good deal of advice: said he wassorry to see him in limbo, and that he would have a talk with theconsul about having him set free. 

We saw nothing more of him for two or three days; at the end of whichtime he paid us another call, telling Pat that Wilson was inexorable, having refused to set him at liberty, unless to go aboard the ship. This, the priest now besought him to do forthwith; and so escape thepunishment which, it seems, Wilson had been hinting at to hisintercessor. Pat, however, was staunch against entreaties; and, withall the ardour of a sophomorean sailor, protested his intention tohold out to the last. With none of the meekness of a good little boyabout him, the blunt youngster stormed away at such a rate that itwas hard to pacify him; and the priest said no more. 

How it came to pass--whether from Murphy's speaking to the consul, orotherwise, we could not tell--but the next day, Pat was sent for byWilson, and being escorted to the village by our good old keeper, three days elapsed before he returned. 

Bent upon reclaiming him, they had taken him on board the ship;feasted him in the cabin; and, finding that of no avail, down theythrust him into the hold, in double irons, and on bread and water. All would not do; and so he was sent back to the Calabooza. Boy thathe was, they must have counted upon his being more susceptible todiscipline than the rest. 

The interest felt in Pat's welfare, by his benevolent countryman, wasvery serviceable to the rest of us; especially as we all turnedCatholics, and went to mass every morning, much to Captain Bob'sconsternation. Upon finding it out, he threatened to keep us in thestocks if we did not desist. He went no farther than this, though;and so, every few days, we strolled down to the priest's residence, and had a mouthful to eat, and something generous to drink. Inparticular, Dr. Long Ghost and myself became huge favourites withPat's friend; and many a time he regaled us from a quaint-lookingtravelling case for spirits, stowed away in one corner of hisdwelling. It held four square flasks, which, somehow or other, alwayscontained just enough to need emptying. In truth, the fine oldIrishman was a rosy fellow in canonicals. His countenance and hissoul were always in a glow. It may be ungenerous to reveal hisfailings, but he often talked thick, and sometimes was perceptiblyeccentric in his gait. 

I never drink French brandy but I pledge Father Murphy. His healthagain! And many jolly proselytes may he make in Polynesia!

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

LITTLE JULIA SAILS WITHOUT US

TO MAKE good the hint thrown out by the consul upon the conclusion ofthe Farce of the Affidavits, we were again brought before him withinthe time specified. 

It was the same thing over again: he got nothing out of us, and wewere remanded; our resolute behaviour annoying him prodigiously. 

What we observed led us to form the idea that, on first learning thestate of affairs on board the Julia, Wilson must have addressed hisinvalid friend, the captain, something in the following style:

"Guy, my poor fellow, don't worry yourself now about those rascallysailors of yours. I'll dress them out for you--just leave it all tome, and set your mind at rest. "

But handcuffs and stocks, big looks, threats, dark hints, anddepositions, had all gone for nought. 

Conscious that, as matters now stood, nothing serious could grow outof what had happened; and never dreaming that our being sent home fortrial had ever been really thought of, we thoroughly understoodWilson, and laughed at him accordingly. 

Since leaving the Julia, we had caught no glimpse of the mate; but weoften heard of him. 

It seemed that he remained on board, keeping house in the cabin forhimself and Viner; who, going to see him according to promise, wasinduced to remain a guest. These two cronies now had fine times;tapping the captain's quarter-casks, playing cards on the transom, and giving balls of an evening to the ladies ashore. In short, theycut up so many queer capers that the missionaries complained of themto the consul; and Jermin received a sharp reprimand. 

This so affected him that he still drank more freely than before; andone afternoon, when mellow as a grape, he took umbrage at a canoefull of natives, who, on being hailed from the deck to come aboardand show their papers, got frightened, and paddled for the shore. 

Lowering a boat instantly, he equipped Wymontoo and the Dane with acutlass apiece, and seizing another himself, off they started inpursuit, the ship's ensign flying in the boat's stern. The alarmedislanders, beaching their canoe, with loud cries fled through thevillage, the mate after them, slashing his naked weapon to right andleft. A crowd soon collected; and the "Karhowree toonee, " or crazystranger, was quickly taken before Wilson. 

Now, it so chanced that, in a native house hard by, the consul andCaptain Guy were having a quiet game at cribbage by themselves, adecanter on the table standing sentry. The obstreperous Jermin wasbrought in; and finding the two thus pleasantly occupied, it had asoothing effect upon him; and he insisted upon taking a hand at thecards, and a drink of the brandy. As the consul was nearly as tipsy ashimself, and the captain dared not object for fear of giving offence, at it they went--all three of them--and made a night of it; themate's delinquencies being summarily passed over, and his captorssent away. 

An incident worth relating grew out of this freak. 

There wandered about Papeetee, at this time, a shrivelled littlefright of an Englishwoman, known among sailors as "Old Mother Tot. "From New Zealand to the Sandwich Islands, she had been all over theSouth Seas; keeping a rude hut of entertainment for mariners, andsupplying them with rum and dice. Upon the missionary islands, ofcourse, such conduct was severely punishable; and at various places, Mother Tot's establishment had been shut up, and its proprietor madeto quit in the first vessel that could be hired to land herelsewhere. But, with a perseverance invincible, wherever she went shealways started afresh; and so became notorious everywhere. 

By some wicked spell of hers, a patient, one-eyed little cobblerfollowed her about, mending shoes for white men, doing the oldwoman's cooking, and bearing all her abuse without grumbling. Strangeto relate, a battered Bible was seldom out of his sight; and wheneverhe had leisure, and his mistress' back was turned, he was foreverporing over it. This pious propensity used to enrage the old cronepast belief; and oftentimes she boxed his ears with the book, andtried to burn it. Mother Tot and her man Josy were, indeed, a curiouspair. 

But to my story. 

A week or so after our arrival in the harbour, the old lady had onceagain been hunted down, and forced for the time to abandon hernefarious calling. This was brought about chiefly by Wilson, who, forsome reason unknown, had contracted the most violent hatred for her;which, on her part, was more than reciprocated. 

Well: passing, in the evening, where the consul and his party weremaking merry, she peeped through the bamboos of the house; andstraightway resolved to gratify her spite. 

The night was very dark; and providing herself with a huge ship'slantern, which usually swung in her hut, she waited till they cameforth. This happened about midnight; Wilson making his appearance, supported by two natives, holding him up by the arms. These threewent first; and just as they got under a deep shade, a bright lightwas thrust within an inch of Wilson's nose. The old hag was kneelingbefore him, holding the lantern with uplifted hands. 

"Ha, ha! my fine counsellor, " she shrieked; "ye persecute a lone oldbody like me for selling rum--do ye? And here ye are, carried homedrunk--Hoot! ye villain, I scorn ye!" And she spat upon him. 

Terrified at the apparition, the poor natives--arrant believers inghosts--dropped the trembling consul, and fled in all directions. After giving full vent to her rage, Mother Tot hobbled away, and leftthe three revellers to stagger home the best way they could. 

The day following our last interview with Wilson, we learned thatCaptain Guy had gone on board his vessel for the purpose of shippinga new crew. There was a round bounty offered; and a heavy bag ofSpanish dollars, with the Julia's articles ready for signing, werelaid on the capstan-head. 

Now, there was no lack of idle sailors ashore, mostly "Beachcombers, "who had formed themselves into an organized gang, headed by one Mack, a Scotchman, whom they styled the Commodore. By the laws of thefraternity, no member was allowed to ship on board a vessel unlessgranted permission by the rest. In this way the gang controlled theport, all discharged seamen being forced to join them. 

To Mack and his men our story was well known; indeed, they had severaltimes called to see us; and of course, as sailors and congenialspirits, they were hard against Captain Guy. 

Deeming the matter important, they came in a body to the Calabooza, and wished to know whether, all things considered, we thought it bestfor any of them to join the Julia. 

Anxious to pack the ship off as soon as possible, we answered, by allmeans. Some went so far as to laud the Julia to the skies as the bestand fastest of ships. Jermin too, as a good fellow, and a sailorevery inch, came in for his share of praise; and as for thecaptain--quiet man, he would never trouble anyone. In short, everyinducement we could think of was presented; and Plash Jack ended byassuring the beachcombers solemnly that, now we were all well andhearty, nothing but a regard to principle prevented us from returningon board ourselves. 

The result was that a new crew was finally obtained, together with asteady New Englander for second mate, and three good whalemen forharpooners. In part, what was wanting for the ship's larder was alsosupplied; and as far as could be done in a place like Tahiti, thedamages the vessel had sustained were repaired. As for the Mowree, the authorities refusing to let him be put ashore, he was carried tosea in irons, down in the hold. What eventually became of him wenever heard. 

Ropey, poor poor Ropey, who a few days previous had fallen sick, wasleft ashore at the sailor hospital at Townor, a small place upon thebeach between Papeetee and Matavai. Here, some time after, hebreathed his last. No one knew his complaint: he must have died ofhard times. Several of us saw him interred in the sand, and I planteda rude post to mark his resting-place. 

The cooper, and the rest who had remained aboard from the first, ofcourse, composed part of the Julia's new crew. 

To account for the conduct, all along, of the consul and captain, intrying so hard to alter our purpose with respect to the ship, thefollowing statement is all that is requisite. Beside an advance offrom fifteen to twenty-five dollars demanded by every sailor shippingat Tahiti, an additional sum for each man so shipped has to be paidinto the hands of the government, as a charge of the port. Besidethis, the men--with here and there an exception--will only ship forone cruise, thus becoming entitled to a discharge before the vesselreaches home; which, in time, creates the necessity of obtainingother men, at a similar cost. Now, the Julia's exchequer was atlow-water mark, or rather, it was quite empty; and to meet theseexpenses, a good part of what little oil there was aboard had to besold for a song to a merchant of Papeetee. 

It was Sunday in Tahiti and a glorious morning, when Captain Bob, waddling into the Calabooza, startled us by announcing "Ah--myboy--shippy you, harre--maky sail!" In other words, the Julia wasoff. 

The beach was quite near, and in this quarter altogether uninhabited;so down we ran, and, at cable's length, saw little Jule glidingpast--top-gallant-sails hoisting, and a boy aloft with one leg thrownover the yard, loosing the fore-royal. The decks were all life andcommotion; the sailors on the forecastle singing "Ho, cheerly men!"as they catted the anchor; and the gallant Jennin, bare-headed as hiswont, standing up on the bowsprit, and issuing his orders. By the manat the helm stood Captain Guy, very quiet and gentlemanly, andsmoking a cigar. 

Soon the ship drew near the reef, and, altering her course, glided outthrough the break, and went on her way. 

Thus disappeared little Jule, about three weeks after entering theharbour: and nothing more have I ever heard of her. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN--FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA

THE ship out of the way, we were quite anxious to know what was goingto be done with us. On this head, Captain Bob could tell us nothing;no further, at least, than that he still considered himselfresponsible for our safe-keeping. However, he never put us to bed anymore; and we had everything our own way. 

The day after the Julia left, the old man came up to us in greattribulation, saying that the bucket of bread was no longerforthcoming, and that Wilson had refused to send anything in itsplace. One and all, we took this for a hint to disperse quietly, andgo about our business. Nevertheless, we were not to be shaken off soeasily; and taking a malicious pleasure in annoying our old enemy, weresolved, for the present, to stay where we were. For the part he hadbeen acting, we learned that the consul was the laughing-stock of allthe foreigners ashore, who frequently twitted him upon his hopefulproteges of the Calabooza Beretanee. 

As we were wholly without resources, so long as we remained on theisland no better place than Captain Bob's could be selected for anabiding-place. Beside, we heartily loved the old gentleman, and couldnot think of leaving him; so, telling him to give no thought as towherewithal we should be clothed and fed, we resolved, by extendingand systematizing our foraging operations, to provide for ourselves. 

We were greatly assisted by a parting legacy of Jermin's. To him wewere indebted for having all our chests sent ashore, and everythingleft therein. They were placed in the custody of a petty chief livingnear by, who was instructed by the consul not to allow them to betaken away; but we might call and make our toilets whenever wepleased. 

We went to see Mahinee, the old chief; Captain Bob going along, andstoutly insisting upon having the chattels delivered up. At last thiswas done; and in solemn procession the chests were borne by thenatives to the Calabooza. Here, we disposed them about quitetastefully; and made such a figure that, in the eyes of old Bob andhis friends, the Calabooza Beretanee was by far the most sumptuouslyfurnished saloon in Tahiti. 

Indeed, so long as it remained thus furnished, the native courts ofthe district were held there; the judge, Mahinee, and his associates, sitting upon one of the chests, and the culprits and spectatorsthrown at full length upon the ground, both inside of the buildingand under the shade of the trees without; while, leaning over thestocks as from a gallery, the worshipful crew of the Julia looked on, and canvassed the proceedings. 

I should have mentioned before that, previous to the vessel'sdeparture, the men had bartered away all the clothing they couldpossibly spare; but now, it was resolved to be more provident. 

The contents of the chests were of the most miscellaneousdescription:--sewing utensils, marling-spikes, strips of calico, bitsof rope, jack-knives; nearly everything, in short, that a seamancould think of. But of wearing apparel, there was little but oldfrocks, remnants of jackets, and legs of trousers, with now and thenthe foot of a stocking. 

These, however, were far from being valueless; for, among the poorerTahitians, everything European is highly esteemed. They come from"Beretanee, Fenooa Pararee" (Britain, Land of Wonders), and that isenough. 

The chests themselves were deemed exceedingly precious, especiallythose with unfractured looks, which would absolutely click, andenable the owner to walk off with the key. Scars, however, andbruises, were considered great blemishes. One old fellow, smittenwith the doctor's large mahogany chest (a well-filled one, by thebye), and finding infinite satisfaction in merely sitting thereon, was detected in the act of applying a healing ointment to a shockingscratch which impaired the beauty of the lid. 

There is no telling the love of a Tahitian for a sailor's trunk. Soornamental is it held as an article of furniture in the hut, that thewomen are incessantly tormenting their husbands to bestir themselvesand make them a present of one. When obtained, no pier-table justplaced in a drawing-room is regarded with half the delight. For thesereasons, then, our coming into possession of our estate at this timewas an important event. 

The islanders are much like the rest of the world; and the news of ourgood fortune brought us troops of "tayos, " or friends, eager to forman alliance after the national custom, and do our slightest bidding. 

The really curious way in which all the Polynesians are in the habitof making bosom friends at the shortest possible notice is deservingof remark. Although, among a people like the Tahitians, vitiated asthey are by sophisticating influences, this custom has in most casesdegenerated into a mere mercenary relation, it nevertheless had itsorigin in a fine, and in some instances, heroic sentiment, formerlyentertained by their fathers. 

In the annals of the island are examples of extravagant friendships, unsurpassed by the story of Damon and Pythias: in truth, much morewonderful; for, notwithstanding the devotion--even of life in somecases--to which they led, they were frequently entertained at firstsight for some stranger from another island. 

Filled with love and admiration for the first whites who came amongthem, the Polynesians could not testify the warmth of their emotionsmore strongly than by instantaneously making their abrupt proffer offriendship. Hence, in old voyages we read of chiefs coming off fromthe shore in their canoes, and going through with strange antics, expressive of the desire. In the same way, their inferiors accostedthe seamen; and thus the practice has continued in some islands downto the present day. 

There is a small place, not many days' sail from Tahiti, and seldomvisited by shipping, where the vessel touched to which I thenhappened to belong. 

Of course, among the simple-hearted natives, We had a friend allround. Mine was Poky, a handsome youth, who never could do enough forme. Every morning at sunrise, his canoe came alongside loaded withfruits of all kinds; upon being emptied, it was secured by a line tothe bowsprit, under which it lay all day long, ready at any time tocarry its owner ashore on an errand. 

Seeing him so indefatigable, I told Poky one day that I was a virtuosoin shells and curiosities of all kinds. That was enough; away hepaddled for the head of the bay, and I never saw him again fortwenty-four hours. The next morning, his canoe came gliding slowlyalong the shore with the full-leaved bough of a tree for a sail. Forthe purpose of keeping the things dry, he had also built a sort ofplatform just behind the prow, railed in with green wicker-work; andhere was a heap of yellow bananas and cowree shells; young cocoa-nutsand antlers of red coral; two or three pieces of carved wood; alittle pocket-idol, black as jet, and rolls of printed tappa. 

We were given a holiday; and upon going ashore, Poky, of course, wasmy companion and guide. For this, no mortal could be betterqualified; his native country was not large, and he knew every inchof it. Gallanting me about, everyone was stopped and ceremoniouslyintroduced to Poty's "tayo karhowree nuee" or his particular whitefriend. 

He showed me all the lions; but more than all, he took me to see acharming lioness--a young damsel--the daughter of a chief--thereputation of whose charms had spread to the neighbouring islands, and even brought suitors therefrom. Among these was Tooboi, the heirof Tamatory, King of Eaiatair, one of the Society Isles. The girl wascertainly fair to look upon. Many heavens were in her sunny eyes; andthe outline of that arm of hers, peeping forth from a capricioustappa robe, was the very curve of beauty. 

Though there was no end to Poky's attentions, not a syllable did heever breathe of reward; but sometimes he looked very knowing. At lastthe day came for sailing, and with it, also, his canoe, loaded downto the gunwale with a sea stock of fruits. Giving him all I couldspare from my chest, I went on deck to take my place at the windlass;for the anchor was weighing. Poky followed, and heaved with me at thesame handspike. 

The anchor was soon up; and away we went out of the bay with more thantwenty shallops towing astern. At last they left us; but long as Icould see him at all, there was Poky, standing alone and motionlessin the bow of his canoe. 

PART II

CHAPTER XL. 

WE TAKE UNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS

THE arrival of the chests made my friend, the doctor, by far thewealthiest man of the party. So much the better for me, seeing that Ihad little or nothing myself; though, from our intimacy, the nativescourted my favour almost as much as his. 

Among others, Kooloo was a candidate for my friendship; and being acomely youth, quite a buck in his way, I accepted his overtures. Bythis, I escaped the importunities of the rest; for be it known that, though little inclined to jealousy in love matters, the Tahitian willhear of no rivals in his friendship. 

Kooloo, running over his qualifications as a friend, first of allinformed me that he was a "Mickonaree, " thus declaring his communionwith the church. 

The way this "tayo" of mine expressed his regard was by assuring meover and over again that the love he bore me was "nuee, nuee, nuee, "or infinitesimally extensive. All over these seas, the word "nuee"is significant of quantity. Its repetition is like placing ciphers atthe right hand of a numeral; the more places you carry it out to, thegreater the sum. Judge, then, of Kooloo's esteem. Nor is the allusionto the ciphers at all inappropriate, seeing that, in themselves, Kooloo's profession turned out to be worthless. He was, alas! assounding brass and a tinkling cymbal; one of those who make no musicunless the clapper be silver. 

In the course of a few days, the sailors, like the doctor and myself, were cajoled out of everything, and our "tayos, " all round, began tocool off quite sensibly. So remiss did they become in theirattentions that we could no longer rely upon their bringing us thedaily supply of food, which all of them had faithfully promised. 

As for Kooloo, after sponging me well, he one morning played the partof a retrograde lover; informing me that his affections had undergonea change; he had fallen in love at first sight with a smart sailor, who had just stepped ashore quite flush from a lucky whaling-cruise. 

It was a touching interview, and with it, our connection dissolved. But the sadness which ensued would soon have been dissipated, had notmy sensibilities been wounded by his indelicately sporting some of mygifts very soon after this transfer of his affections. Hardly a daypassed that I did not meet him on the Broom Road, airing himself in aregatta shirt which I had given him in happier hours. 

He went by with such an easy saunter too, looking me pleasantly in theeye, and merely exchanging the cold salute of the road:--"Yar onor, boyoee, " a mere sidewalk how d'ye do. After several experiences likethis, I began to entertain a sort of respect for Kooloo, as quite aman of the world. In good sooth, he turned out to be one; in oneweek's time giving me the cut direct, and lounging by without evennodding. He must have taken me for part of the landscape. 

Before the chests were quite empty, we had a grand washing in thestream of our best raiment, for the purpose of looking tidy, andvisiting the European chapel in the village. Every Sunday morning itis open for divine service, some member of the mission officiating. This was the first time we ever entered Papeetee unattended by anescort. 

In the chapel there were about forty people present, including theofficers of several ships in harbour. It was an energetic discourse, and the pulpit cushion was well pounded. Occupying a high seat in thesynagogue, and stiff as a flagstaff, was our beloved guardian, Wilson. I shall never forget his look of wonder when his interestingwards filed in at the doorway, and took up a seat directly facinghim. 

Service over, we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of him; butsorely annoyed at the sight of us, he reconnoitred from the window, and never came forth until we had started for home. 

CHAPTER XLI. 

WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON THE SHIPPING

SCARCELY a week went by after the Julia's sailing, when, with theproverbial restlessness of sailors, some of the men began to growweary of the Calabooza Beretanee, and resolved to go boldly among thevessels in the bay, and offer to ship. 

The thing was tried; but though strongly recommended by the commodoreof the beachcombers, in the end they were invariably told by thecaptains to whom they applied that they bore an equivocal characterashore, and would not answer. So often were they repulsed that wepretty nearly gave up all thoughts of leaving the island in this way;and growing domestic again, settled down quietly at Captain Bob's. 

It was about this time that the whaling-ships, which have theirregular seasons for cruising, began to arrive at Papeetee; and ofcourse their crews frequently visited us. This is customary all overthe Pacific. No sailor steps ashore, but he straightway goes to the"Calabooza, " where he is almost sure to find some poor fellow or otherin confinement for desertion, or alleged mutiny, or something of thatsort. Sympathy is proffered, and if need be, tobacco. The latter, however, is most in request; as a solace to the captive, it isinvaluable. 

Having fairly carried the day against both consul and captain, we wereobjects of even more than ordinary interest to these philanthropists;and they always cordially applauded our conduct. Besides, theyinvariably brought along something in the way of refreshments;occasionally smuggling in a little Pisco. Upon one occasion, whenthere was quite a number present, a calabash was passed round, and apecuniary collection taken up for our benefit. 

One day a newcomer proposed that two or three of us should pay him asly, nocturnal visit aboard his ship; engaging to send us away wellfreighted with provisions. This was not a bad idea; nor were we atall backward in acting upon it. Right after night every vessel inthe harbour was visited in rotation, the foragers borrowing CaptainBob's canoe for the purpose. As we all took turns at this--two bytwo--in due course it came to Long Ghost and myself, for the sailorsinvariably linked us together. In such an enterprise, I somewhatdistrusted the doctor, for he was no sailor, and very tall; and acanoe is the most ticklish of navigable things. However, it couldnot be helped; and so we went. 

But a word about the canoes before we go any further. Among theSociety Islands, the art of building them, like all nativeaccomplishments, has greatly deteriorated; and they are now the mostinelegant, as well as the most insecure of any in the South Seas. InCook's time, according to his account, there was at Tahiti a royalfleet of seventeen hundred and twenty large war canoes, handsomelycarved, and otherwise adorned. At present, those used are quitesmall; nothing more than logs hollowed out, sharpened at one end, andthen launched into the water. 

To obviate a certain rolling propensity, the Tahitians, like allPolynesians, attach to them what sailors call an "outrigger. " Itconsists of a pole floating alongside, parallel to the canoe, andconnected with it by a couple of cross sticks, a yard or more inlength. Thus equipped, the canoe cannot be overturned, unless youovercome the buoyancy of the pole, or lift it entirely out of thewater. 

Now, Captain Bob's "gig" was exceedingly small; so small, and of sucha grotesque shape, that the sailors christened it the Pill Box; andby this appellation it always went. In fact, it was a sort of"sulky, " meant for a solitary paddler, but, on an emergency, capableof floating two or three. The outrigger was a mere switch, alternatelyrising in air, and then depressed in the water. 

Assuming the command of the expedition, upon the strength of my beinga sailor, I packed the Long Doctor with a paddle in the bow, and thenshoving off, leaped into the stern; thus leaving him to do all thework, and reserving to myself the dignified sinecure of steering. Allwould have gone on well, were it not that my paddler made such clumsywork that the water spattered, and showered down upon us withoutceasing. Continuing to ply his tool, however, quite energetically, Ithought he would improve after a while, and so let him alone. But byand bye, getting wet through with this little storm we were raising, and seeing no signs of its clearing off, I conjured him, in mercy'sname, to stop short, and let me wring myself out. Upon this, hesuddenly turned round, when the canoe gave a roll, the outrigger flewoverhead, and the next moment came rap on the doctor's skull, and wewere both in the water. 

Fortunately, we were just over a ledge of coral, not half-a-fathomunder the surface. Depressing one end of the filled canoe, andletting go of it quickly, it bounced up, and discharged a great partof its contents; so that we easily baled out the remainder, and againembarked. This time, my comrade coiled himself away in a very smallspace; and enjoining upon him not to draw a single unnecessarybreath, I proceeded to urge the canoe along by myself. I wasastonished at his docility, never speaking a word, and stirringneither hand nor foot; but the secret was, he was unable to swim, andin case we met with a second mishap, there were no more ledgesbeneath to stand upon. "Crowning's but a shabby way of going out ofthe world, " he exclaimed, upon my rallying him; "and I'm not going tobe guilty of it. "

At last, the ship was at hand, and we approached with much caution, wishing to avoid being hailed by anyone from the quarter-deck. Dropping silently under her bows, we heard a low whistle--the signalagreed upon--and presently a goodly-sized bag was lowered over to us. 

We cut the line, and then paddled away as fast as we could, and madethe best of our way home. Here, we found the rest waitingimpatiently. 

The bag turned out to be well filled with sweet potatoes boiled, cubesof salt beef and pork, and a famous sailors' pudding, what they call"duff, " made of flour and water, and of about the consistence of anunderdone brick. With these delicacies, and keen appetites, we wentout into the moonlight, and had a nocturnal picnic. 

CHAPTER XLII. 

MOTOO-OTOO A TAHITIAN CASUIST

THE Pill Box was sometimes employed for other purposes than thatdescribed in the last chapter. We sometimes went a-pleasuring in it. 

Right in the middle of Papeetee harbour is a bright, green island, onecircular grove of waving palms, and scarcely a hundred yards across. It is of coral formation; and all round, for many rods out, the bayis so shallow that you might wade anywhere. Down in these waters, astransparent as air, you see coral plants of every hue and shapeimaginable:--antlers, tufts of azure, waving reeds like stalks ofgrain, and pale green buds and mosses. In some places, you lookthrough prickly branches down to a snow-white floor of sand, sprouting with flinty bulbs; and crawling among these are strangeshapes:--some bristling with spikes, others clad in shining coats ofmail, and here and there, round forms all spangled with eyes. 

The island is called Hotoo-Otoo; and around Hotoo-Otoo have I oftenpaddled of a white moonlight night, pausing now and then to admirethe marine gardens beneath. 

The place is the private property of the queen, who has a residencethere--a melancholy-looking range of bamboo houses--neglected andfalling to decay among the trees. 

Commanding the harbour as it does, her majesty has done all she couldto make a fortress of the island. The margin has been raised andlevelled, and built up with a low parapet of hewn Hocks of coral. Behind the parapet are ranged, at wide intervals, a number of rustyold cannon, of all fashions and calibres. They are mounted upon lame, decrepit-looking carriages, ready to sink under the useless burden ofbearing them up. Indeed, two or three have given up the ghostaltogether, and the pieces they sustained lie half buried among theirbleaching bones. Several of the cannon are spiked; probably with aview of making them more formidable; as they certainly must be toanyone undertaking to fire them off. 

Presented to Pomaree at various times by captains of British armedships, these poor old "dogs of war, " thus toothless and turned out todie, formerly bayed in full pack as the battle-hounds of Old England. 

There was something about Hotoo-Otoo that struck my fancy; and Iregistered a vow to plant my foot upon its soil, notwithstanding anold bareheaded sentry menaced me in the moonlight with an unsightlymusket. As my canoe drew scarcely three inches of water, I couldpaddle close up to the parapet without grounding; but every time Icame near, the old man ran toward me, pushing his piece forward, butnever clapping it to his shoulder. Thinking he only meant to frightenme, I at last dashed the canoe right Up to the wall, purposing aleap. It was the rashest act of my life; for never did cocoa-nut comenearer getting demolished than mine did then. With the stock of hisgun, the old warder fetched a tremendous blow, which I managed tododge; and then falling back, succeeded in paddling out of harm'sreach. 

He must have been dumb; for never a word did he utter; but grinningfrom ear to ear, and with his white cotton robe streaming in themoonlight, he looked more like the spook of the island than anythingmortal. 

I tried to effect my object by attacking him in the rear--but he wasall front; running about the place as I paddled, and presenting hisconfounded musket wherever I went. At last I was obliged to retreat;and to this day my vow remains unfulfilled. 

It was a few days after my repulse from before the walls of Hotoo-Otoothat I heard a curious case of casuistry argued between one of themost clever and intelligent natives I ever saw in Tahiti, a man bythe name of Arheetoo, and our learned Theban of a doctor. 

It was this:--whether it was right and lawful for anyone, being anative, to keep the European Sabbath, in preference to the day setapart as such by the missionaries, and so considered by the islandersin general. 

It must be known that the missionaries of the good ship Duff, who morethan half-a-century ago established the Tahitian reckoning, camehither by the way of the Cape of Good Hope; and by thus sailing tothe eastward, lost one precious day of their lives all round, gettingabout that much in advance of Greenwich time. For this reason, vessels coming round Cape Horn--as they most all do nowadays--find itSunday in Tahiti, when, according to their own view of the matter, itought to be Saturday. But as it won't do to alter the log, thesailors keep their Sabbath, and the islanders theirs. 

This confusion perplexes the poor natives mightily; and it is to nopurpose that you endeavour to explain so incomprehensible aphenomenon. I once saw a worthy old missionary essay to shed somelight on the subject; and though I understood but a few of the wordsemployed, I could easily get at the meaning of his illustrations. They were something like the following:

"Here, " says he, "you see this circle" (describing a large one on theground with a stick); "very good; now you see this spot here"(marking a point in the perimeter): "well; this is Beretanee(England), and I'm going to sail round to Tahiti. Here I go, then(following the circle round), and there goes the sun (snatching upanother stick, and commissioning a bandy-legged native to travelround with it in a contrary direction). Now then, we are both off, and both going away from each other; and here you see I have arrivedat Tahiti (making a sudden stop); and look now where Bandy Legs is!"

But the crowd strenuously maintained that Bandy Legs ought to besomewhere above them in the atmosphere; for it was a traditionaryfact that the people from the Duff came ashore when the sun was highoverhead. And here the old gentleman, being a very good sort of man, doubtless, but no astronomer, was obliged to give up. 

Arheetoo, the casuist alluded to, though a member of the church, andextremely conscientious about what Sabbath he kept, was more liberalin other matters. Learning that I was something of a "mick-onaree"(in this sense, a man able to read, and cunning in the use of thepen), he desired the slight favour of my forging for him a set ofpapers; for which, he said, he would be much obliged, and give me agood dinner of roast pig and Indian turnip in the bargain. 

Now, Arheetoo was one of those who board the shipping for theirwashing; and the competition being very great (the proudest chiefsnot disdaining to solicit custom in person, though the work is doneby their dependants), he had decided upon a course suggested by aknowing sailor, a friend of his. He wished to have manufactured a setof certificates, purporting to come from certain man-of-war andmerchant captains, known to have visited the island; recommending himas one of the best getters up of fine linen in all Polynesia. 

At this time, Arheetoo had known me but two hours; and, as he made theproposition very coolly, I thought it rather presumptuous, and toldhim so. But as it was quite impossible to convey a hint, and therewas a slight impropriety in the thing, I did not resent the insult, but simply declined. 

CHAPTER XLIII. 

ONE IS JUDGED BY THE COMPANY HE KEEPS

ALTHOUGH, from its novelty, life at Captain Bob's was pleasant enough, for the time; there were some few annoyances connected with itanything but agreeable to a "soul of sensibility. "

Prejudiced against us by the malevolent representations of the consuland others, many worthy foreigners ashore regarded us as a set oflawless vagabonds; though, truth to speak, better behaved sailorsnever stepped on the island, nor any who gave less trouble to thenatives. But, for all this, whenever we met a respectably-dressedEuropean, ten to one he shunned us by going over to the other side ofthe road. This was very unpleasant, at least to myself; though, certes, it did not prey upon the minds of the others. 

To give an instance. 

Of a fine evening in Tahiti--but they are all fine evenings there--youmay see a bevy of silk bonnets and parasols passing along the BroomRoad: perhaps a band of pale, little white urchins--sicklyexotics--and, oftener still, sedate, elderly gentlemen, with canes;at whose appearance the natives, here and there, slink into theirhuts. These are the missionaries, their wives, and children, taking afamily airing. Sometimes, by the bye, they take horse, and ride downto Point Venus and back; a distance of several miles. At this placeis settled the only survivor of the first missionaries thatlanded--an old, white-headed, saint-like man, by the name of Wilson, the father of our friend, the consul. 

The little parties on foot were frequently encountered; and, recalling, as they did, so many pleasant recollections of home andthe ladies, I really longed for a dress coat and beaver that I mightstep up and pay my respects. But, situated as I was, this was out ofthe question. On one occasion, however, I received a kind, inquisitiveglance from a matron in gingham. Sweet lady! I have not forgottenher: her gown was a plaid. 

But a glance, like hers, was not always bestowed. 

One evening, passing the verandah of a missionary's dwelling, thedame, his wife, and a pretty, blonde young girl, with ringlets, weresitting there, enjoying the sea-breeze, then coming in, all cool andrefreshing, from the spray of the reef. As I approached, the old ladypeered hard at me; and her very cap seemed to convey a prim rebuke. The blue, English eyes, by her side, were also bent on me. But, ohHeavens! what a glance to receive from such a beautiful creature! Asfor the mob cap, not a fig did I care for it; but, to be taken foranything but a cavalier, by the ringleted one, was absolutelyunendurable. 

I resolved on a courteous salute, to show my good-breeding, if nothingmore. But, happening to wear a sort of turban--hereafter to beparticularly alluded to--there was no taking it off and putting it onagain with anything like dignity. At any rate, then, here goes a how. But, another difficulty presented itself; my loose frock was sovoluminous that I doubted whether any spinal curvature would beperceptible. 

"Good evening, ladies, " exclaimed I, at last, advancing winningly; "adelightful air from the sea, ladies. "

Hysterics and hartshorn! who would have thought it? The young ladyscreamed, and the old one came near fainting. As for myself, Iretreated in double-quick time; and scarcely drew breath until safelyhoused in the Calabooza. 

CHAPTER XLIV. 

CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR--THE CHURCH OF THE COCOA-NUTS

ON Sundays I always attended the principal native church, on theoutskirts of the village of Papeetee, and not far from the CalaboozaBeretanee. It was esteemed the best specimen of architecture inTahiti. 

Of late, they have built their places of worship with more referenceto durability than formerly. At one time, there were no less thanthirty-six on the island--mere barns, tied together with thongs, which went to destruction in a very few years. 

One, built many years ago in this style, was a most remarkablestructure. It was erected by Pomaree II. , who, on this occasion, showed all the zeal of a royal proselyte. The building was over sevenhundred feet in length, and of a proportionate width; the vastridge-pole was at intervals supported by a row of thirty-sixcylindrical trunks of the bread-fruit tree; and, all round, thewall-plates rested on shafts of the palm. The roof--steeply incliningto within a man's height of the ground--was thatched with leaves, andthe sides of the edifice were open. Thus spacious was the RoyalMission Chapel of Papoar. 

At its dedication, three distinct sermons were, from differentpulpits, preached to an immense concourse gathered from all parts ofthe island. 

As the chapel was built by the king's command, nearly as great amultitude was employed in its construction as swarmed over thescaffolding of the great temple of the Jews. Much less time, however, was expended. In less than three weeks from planting the first post, the last tier of palmetto-leaves drooped from the eaves, and the workwas done. 

Apportioned to the several chiefs and their dependants, the labour, though immense, was greatly facilitated by everyone's bringing hispost, or his rafter, or his pole strung with thatching, ready forinstant use. The materials thus prepared being afterwards securedtogether by thongs, there was literally "neither hammer, nor axe, norany tool of iron heard in the house while it was building. "

But the most singular circumstance connected with this South Seacathedral remains to be related. As well for the beauty as theadvantages of such a site, the islanders love to dwell near themountain streams; and so, a considerable brook, after descending fromthe hills and watering the valley, was bridged over in three places, and swept clean through the chapel. 

Flowing waters! what an accompaniment to the songs of the sanctuary;mingling with them the praises and thanksgivings of the greensolitudes inland. 

But the chapel of the Polynesian Solomon has long since been deserted. Its thousand rafters of habiscus have decayed, and fallen to theground; and now, the stream murmurs over them in its bed. 

The present metropolitan church of Tahiti is very unlike the one justdescribed. It is of moderate dimensions, boarded over, and paintedwhite. It is furnished also with blinds, but no sashes; indeed, wereit not for the rustic thatch, it would remind one of a plain chapelat home. 

The woodwork was all done by foreign carpenters, of whom there arealways several about Papeetee. 

Within, its aspect is unique, and cannot fail to interest a stranger. The rafters overhead are bound round with fine matting of variegateddyes; and all along the ridge-pole these trappings hang pendent, inalternate bunches of tassels and deep fringes of stained grass. Thefloor is composed of rude planks. Regular aisles run between rangesof native settees, bottomed with crossed braids of the cocoa-nutfibre, and furnished with backs. 

But the pulpit, made of a dark, lustrous wood, and standing at oneend, is by far the most striking object. It is preposterously lofty;indeed, a capital bird's-eye view of the congregation ought to be hadfrom its summit. 

Nor does the church lack a gallery, which runs round on three sides, and is supported by columns of the cocoa-nut tree. 

Its facings are here and there daubed over with a tawdry blue; and inother places (without the slightest regard to uniformity), patches ofthe same colour may be seen. In their ardour to decorate thesanctuary, the converts must have borrowed each a brush full ofpaint, and zealously daubed away at the first surface that offered. 

As hinted, the general impression is extremely curious. Little lightbeing admitted, and everything being of a dark colour, there is anindefinable Indian aspect of duskiness throughout. A strange, woodysmell, also--more or less pervading every considerable edifice inPolynesia--is at once perceptible. It suggests the idea of worm-eatenidols packed away in some old lumber-room at hand. 

For the most part, the congregation attending this church is composedof the better and wealthier orders--the chiefs and their retainers;in short, the rank and fashion of the island. This class isinfinitely superior in personal beauty and general healthfulness tothe "marenhoar, " or common people; the latter having been moreexposed to the worst and most debasing evils of foreign intercourse. On Sundays, the former are invariably arrayed in their finery; andthus appear to the best advantage. Nor are they driven to the chapel, as some of their inferiors are to other places of worship; on thecontrary, capable of maintaining a handsome exterior, and possessinggreater intelligence, they go voluntarily. 

In respect of the woodland colonnade supporting its galleries, Icalled this chapel the Church of the Cocoa-nuts. 

It was the first place for Christian worship in Polynesia that I hadseen; and the impression upon entering during service was all thestronger. Majestic-looking chiefs whose fathers had hurled thebattle-club, and old men who had seen sacrifices smoking upon thealtars of Oro, were there. And hark! hanging from the bough of abread-fruit tree without, a bell is being struck with a bar of iron bya native lad. In the same spot, the blast of the war-conch had oftenresounded. But to the proceedings within. 

The place is well filled. Everywhere meets the eye the gay calicodraperies worn on great occasions by the higher classes, and forminga strange contrast of patterns and colours. In some instances, theseare so fashioned as to resemble as much as possible Europeangarments. This is in excessively bad taste. Coats and pantaloons, too, are here and there seen; but they look awkwardly enough, and takeaway from the general effect. 

But it is the array of countenances that most strikes you. Each issuffused with the peculiar animation of the Polynesians, when thuscollected in large numbers. Every robe is rustling, every limb inmotion, and an incessant buzzing going on throughout the assembly. The tumult is so great that the voice of the placid old missionary, who now rises, is almost inaudible. Some degree of silence is atlength obtained through the exertions of half-a-dozen strappingfellows, in white shirts and no pantaloons. Running in among thesettees, they are at great pains to inculcate the impropriety ofmaking a noise by creating a most unnecessary racket themselves. Thispart of the service was quite comical. 

There is a most interesting Sabbath School connected with the church;and the scholars, a vivacious, mischievous set, were in one part ofthe gallery. I was amused by a party in a corner. The teacher sat atone end of the bench, with a meek little fellow by his side. When theothers were disorderly, this young martyr received a rap; intended, probably, as a sample of what the rest might expect, if they didn'tamend. 

Standing in the body of the church, and leaning against a pillar, wasan old man, in appearance very different from others of hiscountrymen. He wore nothing but a coarse, scant mantle of fadedtappa; and from his staring, bewildered manner, I set him down as anaged bumpkin from the interior, unaccustomed to the strange sightsand sounds of the metropolis. This old worthy was sharply reprimandedfor standing up, and thus intercepting the view of those behind; butnot comprehending exactly what was said to him, one of thewhite-liveried gentry made no ceremony of grasping him by theshoulders, and fairly crushing him down into a seat. 

During all this, the old missionary in the pulpit--as well as hisassociates beneath, never ventured to interfere--leaving everythingto native management. With South Sea islanders, assembled in anynumbers, there is no other way of getting along. 

CHAPTER XLV. 

MISSIONARY'S SERMON; WITH SOME REFLECTIONS

SOME degree of order at length restored, the service was continued, bysinging. The choir was composed of twelve or fifteen ladies of themission, occupying a long bench to the left of the pulpit. Almost theentire congregation joined in. 

The first air fairly startled me; it was the brave tune of OldHundred, adapted to a Tahitian psalm. After the graceless scenes Ihad recently passed through, this circumstance, with all itsaccessories, moved me forcibly. 

Many voices around were of great sweetness and compass. The singers, also, seemed to enjoy themselves mightily; some of them pausing, nowand then, and looking round, as if to realize the scene more fully. In truth, they sang right joyously, despite the solemnity of thetune. 

The Tahitians have much natural talent for singing; and, on alloccasions, are exceedingly fond of it. I have often heard a stave ortwo of psalmody, hummed over by rakish young fellows, like a snatchfrom an opera. 

With respect to singing, as in most other matters, the Tahitianswidely differ from the people of the Sandwich Islands; where theparochial flocks may be said rather to Heat than sing. 

The psalm concluded, a prayer followed. Very considerately, the goodold missionary made it short; for the congregation became fidgety andinattentive as soon as it commenced. 

A chapter of the Tahitian Bible was now read; a text selected; and thesermon began. It was listened to with more attention than I hadanticipated. 

Having been informed, from various sources, that the discourses of themissionaries, being calculated to engage the attention of theirsimple auditors, were, naturally enough, of a rather amusingdescription to strangers; in short, that they had much to say aboutsteamboats, lord mayor's coaches, and the way fires are put out inLondon, I had taken care to provide myself with a good interpreter, inthe person of an intelligent Hawaiian sailor, whose acquaintance Ihad made. 

"Now, Jack, " said I, before entering, "hear every word, and tell mewhat you can as the missionary goes on. "

Jack's was not, perhaps, a critical version of the discourse; and atthe time, I took no notes of what he said. Nevertheless, I will hereventure to give what I remember of it; and, as far as possible, inJack's phraseology, so as to lose nothing by a double translation. 

"Good friends, I glad to see you; and I very well like to have sometalk with you to-day. Good friends, very bad times in Tahiti; it makeme weep. Pomaree is gone--the island no more yours, but the Wee-wees'(French). Wicked priests here, too; and wicked idols in woman'sclothes, and brass chains. 

"Good friends, no you speak, or look at them--but I know youwon't--they belong to a set of robbers--the wicked Wee-wees. Soon thesebad men be made to go very quick. Beretanee ships of thunder come andaway they go. But no more 'bout this now. I speak more by by. 

"Good friends, many whale-ships here now; and many bad men come in'em. No good sailors living--that you know very well. They come here, 'cause so bad they no keep 'em home. 

"My good little girls, no run after sailors--no go where they go; theyharm you. Where they come from, no good people talk to 'em--just likedogs. Here, they talk to Pomaree, and drink arva with great Poofai. 

"Good friends, this very small island, but very wicked, and very poor;these two go together. Why Beretanee so great? Because that islandgood island, and send mickonaree to poor kannaka In Beretanee, everyman rich: plenty things to buy; and plenty things to sell. Housesbigger than Pomaree's, and more grand. Everybody, too, ride about incoaches, bigger than hers; and wear fine tappa every day. (Severalluxurious appliances of civilization were here enumerated, anddescribed. )

"Good friends, little to eat left at my house. Schooner from Sydney nobring bag of flour: and kannaka no bring pig and fruit enough. Mickonaree do great deal for kannaka; kannaka do little formickonaree. So, good friends, weave plenty of cocoa-nut baskets, fill'em, and bring 'em to-morrow. "

Such was the substance of great part of this discourse; and, whatevermay be thought of it, it was specially adapted to the minds of theislanders: who are susceptible to no impressions, except from thingspalpable, or novel and striking. To them, a dry sermon would be dryindeed. 

The Tahitians can hardly ever be said to reflect: they are allimpulse; and so, instead of expounding dogmas, the missionaries givethem the large type, pleasing cuts, and short and easy lessons of theprimer. Hence, anything like a permanent religious impression isseldom or never produced. 

In fact, there is, perhaps, no race upon earth, less disposed, bynature, to the monitions of Christianity, than the people of theSouth Seas. And this assertion is made with full knowledge of what iscalled the "Great Revival at the Sandwich Islands, " about the year1836; when several thousands were, in the course of a few weeks, admitted into the bosom of the Church. But this result was broughtabout by no sober moral convictions; as an almost instantaneousrelapse into every kind of licentiousness soon after testified. Itwas the legitimate effect of a morbid feeling, engendered by thesense of severe physical wants, preying upon minds excessively proneto superstition; and, by fanatical preaching, inflamed into the beliefthat the gods of the missionaries were taking vengeance upon thewickedness of the land. 

It is a noteworthy fact that those very traits in the Tahitians, whichinduced the London Missionary Society to regard them as the mostpromising subjects for conversion, and which led, moreover, to theselection of their island as the very first field for missionarylabour, eventually proved the most serious obstruction. An air ofsoftness in their manners, great apparent ingenuousness and docility, at first misled; but these were the mere accompaniments of anindolence, bodily and mental; a constitutional voluptuousness; and anaversion to the least restraint; which, however fitted for theluxurious state of nature, in the tropics, are the greatest possiblehindrances to the strict moralities of Christianity. 

Added to all this is a quality inherent in Polynesians; and more akinto hypocrisy than anything else. It leads them to assume the mostpassionate interest in matters for which they really feel little ornone whatever; but in which, those whose power they dread, or whosefavour they court, they believe to be at all affected. Thus, in theirheathen state, the Sandwich Islanders actually knocked out theirteeth, tore their hair, and mangled their bodies with shells, totestify their inconsolable grief at the demise of a high chief, ormember of the royal family. And yet, Vancouver relates that, on suchan occasion, upon which he happened to be present, those apparentlythe most abandoned to their feelings, immediately assumed the utmostlight-heartedness on receiving the present of a penny whistle, or aDutch looking-glass. Similar instances, also, have come under my ownobservation. 

The following is an illustration of the trait alluded to, asoccasionally manifested among the converted Polynesians. 

At one of the Society Islands--Baiatair, I believe--the natives, forspecial reasons, desired to commend themselves particularly to thefavour of the missionaries. Accordingly, during divine service, manyof them behaved in a manner, otherwise unaccountable, and preciselysimilar to their behaviour as heathens. They pretended to be wroughtup to madness by the preaching which they heard. They rolled theireyes; foamed at the mouth; fell down in fits; and so were carriedhome. Yet, strange to relate, all this was deemed the evidence of thepower of the Most High; and, as such, was heralded abroad. 

But, to return to the Church of the Cocoa-nuts. The blessingpronounced, the congregation disperse; enlivening the Broom Road withtheir waving mantles. On either hand, they disappear down the shadedpathways, which lead off from the main route, conducting to hamletsin the groves, or to the little marine villas upon the beach. Thereis considerable hilarity; and you would suppose them just from anold-fashioned "hevar, " or jolly heathen dance. Those who carry Biblesswing them carelessly from their arms by cords of sinnate. 

The Sabbath is no ordinary day with the Tahitians. So far as doing anywork is concerned, it is scrupulously observed. The canoes are hauledup on the beach; the nets are spread to dry. Passing by the hen-coophuts on the roadside, you find their occupants idle, as usual; butless disposed to gossip. After service, repose broods over the wholeisland; the valleys reaching inland look stiller than ever. 

In short, it is Sunday--their "Taboo Day"; the very word formerlyexpressing the sacredness of their pagan observances now proclaimingthe sanctity of the Christian Sabbath. 

CHAPTER XLVI. 

SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS

A WORTHY young man, formerly a friend of mine (I speak of Kooloo withall possible courtesy, since after our intimacy there would be animpropriety in doing otherwise)--this worthy youth, having somegenteel notions of retirement, dwelt in a "maroo boro, " orbread-fruit shade, a pretty nook in a wood, midway between theCalabooza Beretanee and the Church of Cocoa-nuts. Hence, at the latterplace, he was one of the most regular worshippers. 

Kooloo was a blade. Standing up in the congregation in all the braveryof a striped calico shirt, with the skirts rakishly adjusted over apair of white sailor trousers, and hair well anointed with cocoa-nutoil, he ogled the ladies with an air of supreme satisfaction. Norwere his glances unreturned. 

But such looks as the Tahitian belles cast at each other: frequentlyturning up their noses at the advent of a new cotton mantle recentlyimported in the chest of some amorous sailor. Upon one occasion, Iobserved a group of young girls, in tunics of course, soiledsheeting, disdainfully pointing at a damsel in a flaming red one. "Oee tootai owree!" said they with ineffable scorn, "itai maitai!"(You are a good-for-nothing huzzy, no better than you should be). 

Now, Kooloo communed with the church; so did all these censoriousyoung ladies. Yet after eating bread-fruit at the Eucharist, I knewseveral of them, the same night, to be guilty of some sadderelictions. 

Puzzled by these things, I resolved to find out, if possible, whatideas, if any, they entertained of religion; but as one's spiritualconcerns are rather delicate for a stranger to meddle with, I went towork as adroitly as I could. 

Farnow, an old native who had recently retired from active pursuits, having thrown up the business of being a sort of running footman tothe queen, had settled down in a snug little retreat, not fifty rodsfrom Captain Bob's. His selecting our vicinity for his residence mayhave been with some view to the advantages it afforded forintroducing his three daughters into polite circles. At any rate, notaverse to receiving the attentions of so devoted a gallant as thedoctor, the sisters (communicants, be it remembered) kindly extendedto him free permission to visit them sociably whenever he pleased. 

We dropped in one evening, and found the ladies at home. My longfriend engaged his favourites, the two younger girls, at the game of"Now, " or hunting a stone under three piles of tappa. For myself, Ilounged on a mat with Ideea the eldest, dallying with her grass fan, and improving my knowledge of Tahitian. 

The occasion was well adapted to my purpose, and I began. 

"Ah, Ideea, mickonaree oee?" the same as drawling out--"By the bye, Miss Ideea, do you belong to the church?"

"Yes, me mickonaree, " was the reply. 

But the assertion was at once qualified by certain, reservations; socurious that I cannot forbear their relation. 

"Mickonaree ena" (church member here), exclaimed she, laying her handupon her mouth, and a strong emphasis on the adverb. In the same way, and with similar exclamations, she touched her eyes and hands. Thisdone, her whole air changed in an instant; and she gave me tounderstand, by unmistakable gestures, that in certain other respectsshe was not exactly a "mickonaree. " In short, Ideea was

"A sad good Christian at the heart--A very heathen in the carnalpart. "

The explanation terminated in a burst of laughter, in which all threesisters joined; and for fear of looking silly, the doctor and myself. As soon as good-breeding would permit, we took leave. 

The hypocrisy in matters of religion, so apparent in all Polynesianconverts, is most injudiciously nourished in Tahiti by a zealous andin many cases, a coercive superintendence over their spiritualwell-being. But it is only manifested with respect to the commonpeople, their superiors being exempted. 

On Sunday mornings, when the prospect is rather small for a full housein the minor churches, a parcel of fellows are actually sent out withratans into the highways and byways as whippers-in of thecongregation. This is a sober fact. 

These worthies constitute a religious police; and you always know themby the great white diapers they wear. On week days they are quite asbusy as on Sundays; to the great terror of the inhabitants, going allover the island, and spying out the wickedness thereof. 

Moreover, they are the collectors of fines--levied generally in grassmats--for obstinate non-attendance upon divine worship, and otheroffences amenable to the ecclesiastical judicature of themissionaries. 

Old Bob called these fellows "kannakippers" a corruption, I fancy, ofour word constable. 

He bore them a bitter grudge; and one day, drawing near home, andlearning that two of them were just then making a domiciliary visitat his house, he ran behind a bush; and as they came forth, two greenbread-fruit from a hand unseen took them each between the shoulders. The sailors in the Calabooza were witnesses to this, as well asseveral natives; who, when the intruders were out of sight, applaudedCaptain Bob's spirit in no measured terms; the ladies presentvehemently joining in. Indeed, the kannakippers have no greaterenemies than the latter. And no wonder: the impertinent varlets, popping into their houses at all hours, are forever prying into theirpeccadilloes. 

Kooloo, who at times was patriotic and pensive, and mourned the evilsunder which his country was groaning, frequently inveighed againstthe statute which thus authorized an utter stranger to interfere withdomestic arrangements. He himself--quite a ladies' man--had oftenbeen annoyed thereby. He considered the kannakippers a bore. 

Beside their confounded inquisitiveness, they add insult to injury, bymaking a point of dining out every day at some hut within the limitsof their jurisdiction. As for the gentleman of the house, his meekendurance of these things is amazing. But "good easy man, " there isnothing for him but to be as hospitable as possible. 

These gentry are indefatigable. At the dead of night prowling roundthe houses, and in the daytime hunting amorous couples in the groves. Yet in one instance the chase completely baffled them. 

It was thus. 

Several weeks previous to our arrival at the island, someone's husbandand another person's wife, having taken a mutual fancy for eachother, went out for a walk. The alarm was raised, and with hue andcry they were pursued; but nothing was seen of them again until thelapse of some ninety days; when we were called out from the Calaboozato behold a great mob inclosing the lovers, and escorting them fortrial to the village. 

Their appearance was most singular. The girdle excepted, they werequite naked; their hair was long, burned yellow at the ends, andentangled with burrs; and their bodies scratched and scarred in alldirections. It seems that, acting upon the "love in a cottage"principle, they had gone right into the interior; and throwing up ahut in an uninhabited valley, had lived there, until in an unluckystroll they were observed and captured. 

They were subsequently condemned to make one hundred fathoms of BroomRoad--a six months' work, if not more. 

Often, when seated in a house, conversing quietly with its inmates, Ihave known them betray the greatest confusion at the suddenannouncement of a kannakipper's being in sight. To be reported by oneof these officials as a "Tootai Owree" (in general, signifying a badperson or disbeliever in Christianity), is as much dreaded as theforefinger of Titus Gates was, levelled at an alleged papist. 

But the islanders take a sly revenge upon them. Upon entering adwelling, the kannakippers oftentimes volunteer a pharisaicalprayer-meeting: hence, they go in secret by the name of"Boora-Artuas, " literally, "Pray-to-Gods. "

CHAPTER XLVII. 

HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI

EXCEPT where the employment of making "tappa" is inflicted as apunishment, the echoes of the cloth-mallet have long since died awayin the listless valleys of Tahiti. Formerly, the girls spent theirmornings like ladies at their tambour frames; now, they are loungedaway in almost utter indolence. True, most of them make their owngarments; but this comprises but a stitch or two; the ladies of themission, by the bye, being entitled to the credit of teaching them tosew. 

The "kihee whihenee, " or petticoat, is a mere breadth of white cotton, or calico; loosely enveloping the person, from the waist to the feet. Fastened simply by a single tuck, or by twisting the upper cornerstogether, this garment frequently becomes disordered; thus affordingan opportunity of being coquettishly adjusted. Over the "kihee, " theywear a sort of gown, open in front, very loose, and as negligent asyou please. The ladies here never dress for dinner. 

But what shall be said of those horrid hats! Fancy a bunch of straw, plaited into the shape of a coal-scuttle, and stuck, bolt upright, onthe crown; with a yard or two of red ribbon flying about likekite-strings. Milliners of Paris, what would ye say to them! Thoughmade by the natives, they are said to have been first contrived andrecommended by the missionaries' wives; a report which, I reallytrust, is nothing but scandal. 

Curious to relate, these things for the head are esteemed exceedinglybecoming. The braiding of the straw is one of the few employments ofthe higher classes; all of which but minister to the silliest vanity. 

The young girls, however, wholly eschew the hats; leaving those dowdyold souls, their mothers, to make frights of themselves. 

As for the men, those who aspire to European garments seem to have noperception of the relation subsisting between the various parts of agentleman's costume. To the wearer of a coat, for instance, pantaloons are by no means indispensable; and a bell-crowned hat anda girdle are full dress. The young sailor, for whom Kooloo desertedme, presented him with a shaggy old pea-jacket; and with this buttonedup to his chin, under a tropical sun, he promenaded the Broom Road, quite elated. Doctor Long Ghost, who saw him thus, ran away with theidea that he was under medical treatment at the time--in the act oftaking, what the quacks call, a "sweat. "

A bachelor friend of Captain Bob rejoiced in the possession of a fullEuropean suit; in which he often stormed the ladies' hearts. Having amilitary leaning, he ornamented the coat with a great scarlet patchon the breast; and mounted it also, here and there, with severalregimental buttons, slyly cut from the uniform of a parcel of drunkenmarines sent ashore on a holiday from a man-of-war. But, in spite ofthe ornaments, the dress was not exactly the thing. From thetightness of the cloth across the shoulders, his elbows projectedfrom his sides, like an ungainly rider's; and his ponderous legs werejammed so hard into his slim, nether garments that the threads ofevery seam showed; and, at every step, you looked for a catastrophe. 

In general, there seems to be no settled style of dressing among themales; they wear anything they can get; in some cases, awkwardlymodifying the fashions of their fathers so as to accord with theirown altered views of what is becoming. 

But ridiculous as many of them now appear, in foreign habiliments, theTahitians presented a far different appearance in the originalnational costume; which was graceful in the extreme, modest to allbut the prudish, and peculiarly adapted to the climate. But the shortkilts of dyed tappa, the tasselled maroes, and other articlesformerly worn, are, at the present day, prohibited by law asindecorous. For what reason necklaces and garlands of flowers, amongthe women, are also forbidden, I never could learn; but, it is said, that they were associated, in some way, with a forgotten heathenobservance. 

Many pleasant, and, seemingly, innocent sports and pastimes, arelikewise interdicted. In old times, there were several athletic gamespractised, such as wrestling, foot-racing, throwing the javelin, andarchery. In all these they greatly excelled; and, for some, splendidfestivals were instituted. Among their everyday amusements weredancing, tossing the football, kite-flying, flute-playing, andsinging traditional ballads; now, all punishable offences; thoughmost of them have been so long in disuse that they are nearlyforgotten. 

In the same way, the "Opio, " or festive harvest-home of thebreadfruit, has been suppressed; though, as described to me byCaptain Bob, it seemed wholly free from any immoral tendency. Againsttattooing, of any kind, there is a severe law. 

That this abolition of their national amusements and customs was notwillingly acquiesced in, is shown in the frequent violation of manyof the statutes inhibiting them; and, especially, in the frequencywith which their "hevars, " or dances, are practised in secret. 

Doubtless, in thus denationalizing the Tahitians, as it were, themissionaries were prompted by a sincere desire for good; but theeffect has been lamentable. Supplied with no amusements in place ofthose forbidden, the Tahitians, who require more recreation thanother people, have sunk into a listlessness, or indulge insensualities, a hundred times more pernicious than all the games evercelebrated in the Temple of Tanee. 

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

TAHITI AS IT IS

AS IN the last few chapters, several matters connected with thegeneral condition of the natives have been incidentally touched upon, it may be well not to leave so important a subject in a statecalculated to convey erroneous impressions. Let us bestow upon it, therefore, something more than a mere cursory glance. 

But in the first place, let it be distinctly understood that, in all Ihave to say upon this subject, both here and elsewhere, I mean noharm to the missionaries nor their cause; I merely desire to setforth things as they actually exist. 

Of the results which have flowed from the intercourse of foreignerswith the Polynesians, including the attempts to civilize andChristianize them by the missionaries, Tahiti, on many accounts, isobviously the fairest practical example. Indeed, it may now beasserted that the experiment of Christianizing the Tahitians, andimproving their social condition by the introduction of foreigncustoms, has been fully tried. The present generation have grown upunder the auspices of their religious instructors. And although itmay be urged that the labours of the latter have at times been moreor less obstructed by unprincipled foreigners, still, this in no wiserenders Tahiti any the less a fair illustration; for, with obstacleslike these, the missionaries in Polynesia must always, and everywherestruggle. 

Nearly sixty years have elapsed since the Tahitian mission wasstarted; and, during this period, it has received the unceasingprayers and contributions of its friends abroad. Nor has anyenterprise of the kind called forth more devotion on the part ofthose directly employed in it. 

It matters not that the earlier labourers in the work, althoughstrictly conscientious, were, as a class, ignorant, and, in manycases, deplorably bigoted: such traits have, in some degree, characterized the pioneers of all faiths. And although in zeal anddisinterestedness the missionaries now on the island are, perhaps, inferior to their predecessors, they have, nevertheless, in their ownway at least, laboured hard to make a Christian people of theircharge. 

Let us now glance at the most obvious changes wrought in theircondition. 

The entire system of idolatry has been done away; together withseveral barbarous practices engrafted thereon. But this result is notso much to be ascribed to the missionaries, as to the civilizingeffects of a long and constant intercourse with whites of allnations; to whom, for many years, Tahiti has been one of the principalplaces of resort in the South Seas. At the Sandwich Islands, thepotent institution of the Taboo, together with the entire paganism ofthe land, was utterly abolished by a voluntary act of the nativessome time previous to the arrival of the first missionaries amongthem. 

The next most striking change in the Tahitians is this. From thepermanent residence among them of influential and respectableforeigners, as well as from the frequent visits of ships-of-war, recognizing the nationality of the island, its inhabitants are nolonger deemed fit subjects for the atrocities practised upon meresavages; and hence, secure from retaliation, vessels of all kinds nowenter their harbours with perfect safety. 

But let us consider what results are directly ascribable to themissionaries alone. 

In all cases, they have striven hard to mitigate the evils resultingfrom the commerce with the whites in general. Such attempts, however, have been rather injudicious, and often ineffectual: in truth, abarrier almost insurmountable is presented in the dispositions of thepeople themselves. Still, in this respect, the morality of theislanders is, upon the whole, improved by the presence of themissionaries. 

But the greatest achievement of the latter, and one which in itself ismost hopeful and gratifying, is that they have translated the entireBible into the language of the island; and I have myself knownseveral who were able to read it with facility. They have alsoestablished churches, and schools for both children and adults; thelatter, I regret to say, are now much neglected: which must beascribed, in a great measure, to the disorders growing out of theproceedings of the French. 

It were unnecessary here to enter diffusely into matters connectedwith the internal government of the Tahitian churches and schools. Nor, upon this head, is my information copious enough to warrant mein presenting details. But we do not need them. We are merelyconsidering general results, as made apparent in the moral andreligious condition of the island at large. 

Upon a subject like this, however, it would be altogether too assumingfor a single individual to decide; and so, in place of my own randomobservations, which may be found elsewhere, I will here present thoseof several known authors, made under various circumstances, atdifferent periods, and down to a comparative late date. A few verybrief extracts will enable the reader to mark for himself whatprogressive improvement, if any, has taken place. 

Nor must it be overlooked that, of these authorities, the two first inorder are largely quoted by the Right Reverend M. Kussell, in a workcomposed for the express purpose of imparting information on thesubject of Christian missions in Polynesia. And he franklyacknowledges, moreover, that they are such as "cannot fail to havegreat weight with the public. "

After alluding to the manifold evils entailed upon the natives byforeigners, and their singularly inert condition; and after somewhattoo severely denouncing the undeniable errors of the mission, Kotzebue, the Russian navigator, says, "A religion like this, whichforbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or annihilates everymental power, is a libel on the divine founder of Christianity. It istrue that the religion of the missionaries has, with a great deal ofevil, effected some good. It has restrained the vices of theft andincontinence; but it has given birth to ignorance, hypocrisy, and ahatred of all other modes of faith, which was once foreign to theopen and benevolent character of the Tahitian. "

Captain Beechy says that, while at Tahiti, he saw scenes "which musthave convinced the great sceptic of the thoroughly immoral conditionof the people, and which would force him to conclude, as Turnbulldid, many years previous, that their intercourse with the Europeanshad tended to debase, rather than exalt their condition. "

About the year 1834, Daniel Wheeler, an honest-hearted Quaker, prompted by motives of the purest philanthropy, visited, in a vesselof his own, most of the missionary settlements in the South Seas. Heremained some time at Tahiti; receiving the hospitalities of themissionaries there, and, from time to time, exhorting the natives. 

After bewailing their social condition, he frankly says of theirreligious state, "Certainly, appearances are unpromising; and howeverunwilling to adopt such a conclusion, there is reason to apprehendthat Christian principle is a great rarity. "

Such, then, is the testimony of good and unbiassed men, who have beenupon the spot; but, how comes it to differ so widely from impressionsof others at home? Simply thus: instead of estimating the result ofmissionary labours by the number of heathens who have actually beenmade to understand and practise (in some measure at least) theprecepts of Christianity, this result has been unwarrantably inferredfrom the number of those who, without any understanding of thesethings, have in any way been induced to abandon idolatry and conformto certain outward observances. 

By authority of some kind or other, exerted upon the natives throughtheir chiefs, and prompted by the hope of some worldly benefit to thelatter, and not by appeals to the reason, have conversions inPolynesia been in most cases brought about. 

Even in one or two instances--so often held up as wonderful examplesof divine power--where the natives have impulsively burned theiridols, and rushed to the waters of baptism, the very suddenness ofthe change has but indicated its unsoundness. Williams, the martyr ofErromanga, relates an instance where the inhabitants of an islandprofessing Christianity voluntarily assembled, and solemnly revivedall their heathen customs. 

All the world over, facts are more eloquent than words; the followingwill show in what estimation the missionaries themselves hold thepresent state of Christianity and morals among the convertedPolynesians. 

On the island of Imeeo (attached to the Tahitian mission) is aseminary under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Simpson and wife, for theeducation of the children of the missionaries, exclusively. Senthome--in many cases, at a very early age--to finish their education, the pupils here are taught nothing but the rudiments of knowledge;nothing more than may be learned in the native schools. Notwithstanding this, the two races are kept as far as possible fromassociating; the avowed reason being to preserve the young whitesfrom moral contamination. The better to insure this end, every effortis made to prevent them from acquiring the native language. 

They went even further at the Sandwich Islands; where, a few yearsago, a playground for the children of the missionaries was inclosedwith a fence many feet high, the more effectually to exclude thewicked little Hawaiians. 

And yet, strange as it may seem, the depravity among the Polynesians, which renders precautions like these necessary, was in a measureunknown before their intercourse with the whites. The excellentCaptain Wilson, who took the first missionaries out to Tahiti, affirms that the people of that island had, in many things, "morerefined ideas of decency than ourselves. " Vancouver, also, has somenoteworthy ideas on this subject, respecting the Sandwich Islanders. 

That the immorality alluded to is continually increasing is plainlyshown in the numerous, severe, and perpetually violated laws againstlicentiousness of all kinds in both groups of islands. 

It is hardly to be expected that the missionaries would send homeaccounts of this state of things. Hence, Captain Beechy, in alludingto the "Polynesian Researches" of Ellis, says that the author hasimpressed his readers with a far more elevated idea of the moralcondition of the Tahitians, and the degree of civilization to whichthey have attained, than they deserve; or, at least, than the factswhich came under his observation authorized. He then goes on to saythat, in his intercourse with the islanders, "they had no fear ofhim, and consequently acted from the impulse of their naturalfeeling; so that he was the better enabled to obtain a correctknowledge of their real disposition and habits. "

Prom my own familiar intercourse with the natives, this lastreflection still more forcibly applies to myself. 

CHAPTER XLIX. 

SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED

WE have glanced at their moral and religious condition; let us see howit is with them socially, and in other respects. 

It has been said that the only way to civilize a people is to form inthem habits of industry. Judged by this principle, the Tahitians areless civilized now than formerly. True, their constitutionalindolence is excessive; but surely, if the spirit of Christianity isamong them, so unchristian a vice ought to be, at least, partiallyremedied. But the reverse is the fact. Instead of acquiring newoccupations, old ones have been discontinued. 

As previously remarked, the manufacture of tappa is nearly obsolete inmany parts of the island. So, too, with that of the native tools anddomestic utensils; very few of which are now fabricated, since thesuperiority of European wares has been made so evident. 

This, however, would be all very well were the natives to applythemselves to such occupations as would enable them to supply the fewarticles they need. But they are far from doing so; and the majoritybeing unable to obtain European substitutes for many things beforemade by themselves, the inevitable consequence is seen in the presentwretched and destitute mode of life among the common people. To me sorecently from a primitive valley of the Marquesas, the aspect of mostof the dwellings of the poorer Tahitians, and their general habits, seemed anything but tidy; nor could I avoid a comparison, immeasurably to the disadvantage of these partially civilizedislanders. 

In Tahiti, the people have nothing to do; and idleness, everywhere, isthe parent of vice. "There is scarcely anything, " says the good oldQuaker Wheeler, "so striking, or pitiable, as their aimless, nerveless mode of spending life. "

Attempts have repeatedly been made to rouse them from theirsluggishness; but in vain. Several years ago, the cultivation ofcotton was introduced; and, with their usual love of novelty, theywent to work with great alacrity; but the interest excited quicklysubsided, and now, not a pound of the article is raised. 

About the same time, machinery for weaving was sent out from London;and a factory was started at Afrehitoo, in Imeeo. The whiz of thewheels and spindles brought in volunteers from all quarters, whodeemed it a privilege to be admitted to work: yet, in six months, nota boy could be hired; and the machinery was knocked down, and packedoff to Sydney. 

It was the same way with the cultivation of the sugar-cane, a plantindigenous to the island; peculiarly fitted to the soil and climate, and of so excellent a quality that Bligh took slips of it to the WestIndies. All the plantations went on famously for a while; the nativesswarming in the fields like ants, and making a prodigious stir. Whatfew plantations now remain are owned and worked by whites; who wouldrather pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars amonth, than hire a sober native for his "fish and tarro. "

It is well worthy remark here, that every evidence of civilizationamong the South Sea Islands directly pertains to foreigners; thoughthe fact of such evidence existing at all is usually urged as a proofof the elevated condition of the natives. Thus, at Honolulu, thecapital of the Sandwich Islands, there are fine dwelling-houses, several hotels, and barber-shops, ay, even billiard-rooms; but allthese are owned and used, be it observed, by whites. There aretailors, and blacksmiths, and carpenters also; but not one of them isa native. 

The fact is, that the mechanical and agricultural employment ofcivilized life require a kind of exertion altogether too steady andsustained to agree with an indolent people like the Polynesians. Calculated for a state of nature, in a climate providentially adaptedto it, they are unfit for any other. Nay, as a race, they cannototherwise long exist. 

The following statement speaks for itself. 

About the year 1777, Captain Cook estimated the population of Tahitiat about two hundred thousand. By a regular census, taken some fouror five years ago, it was found to be only nine thousand. Thisamazing decrease not only shows the malignancy of the evils necessaryto produce it; but, from the fact, the inference unavoidably followsthat all the wars, child murders, and other depopulating causes, alleged to have existed in former times, were nothing in comparison tothem. 

These evils, of course, are solely of foreign origin. To say nothingof the effects of drunkenness, the occasional inroads of thesmall-pox, and other things which might be mentioned, it issufficient to allude to a virulent disease which now taints the bloodof at least two-thirds of the common people of the island; and, insome form or other, is transmitted from father to son. 

Their first horror and consternation at the earlier ravages of thisscourge were pitiable in the extreme. The very name bestowed upon itis a combination of all that is horrid and unmentionable to acivilized being. 

Distracted with their sufferings, they brought forth their sick beforethe missionaries, when they were preaching, and cried out, "Lies, lies! you tell us of salvation; and, behold, we are dying. We want noother salvation than to live in this world. Where are there any savedthrough your speech? Pomaree is dead; and we are all dying with yourcursed diseases. When will you give over?"

At present, the virulence of the disorder, in individual cases, hassomewhat abated; but the poison is only the more widely diffused. 

"How dreadful and appalling, " breaks forth old Wheeler, "theconsideration that the intercourse of distant nations should haveentailed upon these poor, untutored islanders a curse unprecedented, and unheard of, in the annals of history. "

In view of these things, who can remain blind to the fact that, so faras mere temporal felicity is concerned, the Tahitians are far worseoff now, than formerly; and although their circumstances, upon thewhole, are bettered by the presence of the missionaries, the benefitsconferred by the latter become utterly insignificant when confrontedwith the vast preponderance of evil brought about by other means. 

Their prospects are hopeless. Nor can the most devoted efforts nowexempt them from furnishing a marked illustration of a principlewhich history has always exemplified. Years ago brought to a stand, where all that is corrupt in barbarism and civilization unite, to theexclusion of the virtues of either state; like other uncivilizedbeings, brought into contact with Europeans, they must here remainstationary until utterly extinct. 

The islanders themselves are mournfully watching their doom. 

Several years since, Pomaree II. Said to Tyreman and Bennet, thedeputies of the London Missionary Society, "You have come to see meat a very bad time. Your ancestors came in the time of men, whenTahiti was inhabited: you are come to behold just the remnant of mypeople. "

Of like import was the prediction of Teearmoar, the high-priest ofParee; who lived over a hundred years ago. I have frequently heard itchanted, in a low, sad tone, by aged Tahitiana:--

 "A harree ta fow, A toro ta farraro, A now ta tararta. "

 "The palm-tree shall grow, The coral shall spread, But man shall cease. "

CHAPTER L. 

SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST

WE will now return to the narrative. 

The day before the Julia sailed, Dr. Johnson paid his last call. Hewas not quite so bland as usual. All he wanted was the men's names toa paper, certifying to their having received from him sundrymedicaments therein mentioned. This voucher, endorsed by Captain Guy, secured his pay. But he would not have obtained for it the sailors'signs manual, had either the doctor or myself been present at thetime. 

Now, my long friend wasted no love upon Johnson; but, for reasons ofhis own, hated him heartily: all the same thing in one sense; foreither passion argues an object deserving thereof. And so, to behated cordially, is only a left-handed compliment; which shows howfoolish it is to be bitter against anyone. 

For my own part, I merely felt a cool, purely incidental, and passivecontempt for Johnson, as a selfish, mercenary apothecary, and hence, I often remonstrated with Long Ghost when he flew out against him, and heaped upon him all manner of scurrilous epithets. In hisprofessional brother's presence, however, he never acted thus;maintaining an amiable exterior, to help along the jokes which wereplayed. 

I am now going to tell another story in which my long friend figureswith the physician: I do not wish to bring one or the other of themtoo often upon the stage; but as the thing actually happened, I mustrelate it. 

A few days after Johnson presented his bill, as above mentioned, thedoctor expressed to me his regret that, although he (Johnson) 'hadapparently been played off for our entertainment, yet, nevertheless, he had made money out of the transaction. And I wonder, added thedoctor, if that now he cannot expect to receive any further pay, hecould be induced to call again. 

By a curious coincidence, not five minutes after making thisobservation, Doctor Long Ghost himself fell down in an unaccountablefit; and without asking anybody's leave, Captain Bob, who was by, atonce dispatched a boy, hot foot, for Johnson. 

Meanwhile, we carried him into the Calabooza; and the natives, whoassembled in numbers, suggested various modes of treatment. Onerather energetic practitioner was for holding the patient by theshoulders, while somebody tugged at his feet. This resuscitatoryoperation was called the "Potata"; but thinking our long comradesufficiently lengthy without additional stretching, we declinedpotataing him. 

Presently the physician was spied coming along the Broom Road at agreat rate, and so absorbed in the business of locomotion, that heheeded not the imprudence of being in a hurry in a tropical climate. He was in a profuse perspiration; which must have been owing to thewarmth of his feelings, notwithstanding we had supposed him a man ofno heart. But his benevolent haste upon this occasion wassubsequently accounted for: it merely arose from professionalcuriosity to behold a case most unusual in his Polynesian practice. Now, under certain circumstances, sailors, generally so frolicsome, are exceedingly particular in having everything conducted with thestrictest propriety. Accordingly, they deputed me, as his intimatefriend, to sit at Long Ghost's head, so as to be ready to officiateas "spokesman" and answer all questions propounded, the rest to keepsilent. 

"What's the matter?" exclaimed Johnson, out of breath, and burstinginto the Calabooza: "how did it happen?--speak quick!" and he lookedat Long Ghost. 

I told him how the fit came on. 

"Singular"--he observed--"very: good enough pulse;" and he let go ofit, and placed his hand upon the heart. 

"But what's all that frothing at the mouth?" he continued; "and blessme! look at the abdomen!"

The region thus denominated exhibited the most unaccountablesymptoms. A low, rumbling sound was heard; and a sort of undulationwas discernible beneath the thin cotton frock. 

"Colic, sir?" suggested a bystander. 

"Colic be hanged!" shouted the physician; "who ever heard of anybodyin a trance of the colic?"

During this, the patient lay upon his back, stark and straight, giving no signs of life except those above mentioned. 

"I'll bleed him!" cried Johnson at last--"run for a calabash, one ofyou!"

"Life ho!" here sung out Navy Bob, as if he had just spied a sail. 

"What under the sun's the matter with him!" cried the physician, starting at the appearance of the mouth, which had jerked to oneside, and there remained fixed. 

"Pr'aps it's St. Witus's hornpipe, " suggested Bob. 

"Hold the calabash!"--and the lancet was out in a moment. 

But before the deed could be done, the face became natural;--a sighwas heaved;--the eyelids quivered, opened, closed; and Long Ghost, twitching all over, rolled on his side, and breathed audibly. Bydegrees, he became sufficiently recovered to speak. 

After trying to get something coherent out of him, Johnson withdrew;evidently disappointed in the scientific interest of the case. Soonafter his departure, the doctor sat up; and upon being asked whatupon earth ailed him, shook his head mysteriously. He then deploredthe hardship of being an invalid in such a place, where there was notthe slightest provision for his comfort. This awakened the compassionof our good old keeper, who offered to send him to a place where hewould be better cared for. Long Ghost acquiesced; and being at oncemounted upon the shoulders of four of Captain Bob's men, was marchedoff in state, like the Grand Lama of Thibet. 

Now, I do not pretend to account for his remarkable swoon; but hisreason for suffering himself to be thus removed from the Calaboozawas strongly suspected to be nothing more than a desire to insuremore regularity in his dinner-hour; hoping that the benevolent nativeto whom he was going would set a good table. 

The next morning, we were all envying his fortune; when, of a sudden, he bolted in upon us, looking decidedly out of humour. 

"Hang it!" he cried; "I'm worse off than ever; let me have somebreakfast!" We lowered our slender bag of ship-stores from a rafter, and handed him a biscuit. While this was being munched, he went onand told us his story. 

"After leaving here, they trotted me back into a valley, and left mein a hut, where an old woman lived by herself. This must be thenurse, thought I; and so I asked her to kill a pig, and bake it; forI felt my appetite returning. 'Ha! Hal--oee mattee--matteenuee'--(no, no; you too sick). 'The devil mattee ye, ' said I--'give mesomething to eat!' But nothing could be had. Night coming on, I hadto stay. Creeping into a corner, I tried to sleep; but it was to nopurpose;--the old crone must have had the quinsy, or something else;and she kept up such a wheezing and choking that at last I sprang up, and groped after her; but she hobbled away like a goblin; and that wasthe last of her. As soon as the sun rose, I made the best of my wayback; and here I am. " He never left us more, nor ever had a secondfit. 

CHAPTER LI. 

WILSON GIVES US THE CUT--DEPARTURE FOR IMEEO

ABOUT three weeks after the Julia's sailing, our conditions began tobe a little precarious. We were without any regular supply of food;the arrival of ships was growing less frequent; and, what was worseyet, all the natives but good old Captain Bob began to tire of us. Nor was this to be wondered at; we were obliged to live upon theirbenevolence, when they had little enough for themselves. Besides, wewere sometimes driven to acts of marauding; such as kidnapping pigs, and cooking them in the groves; at which their proprietors were by nomeans pleased. 

In this state of affairs, we determined to march off to the consul ina body; and, as he had brought us to these straits, demand anadequate maintenance. 

On the point of starting, Captain Bob's men raised the most outrageouscries, and tried to prevent us. Though hitherto we had strolled aboutwherever we pleased, this grand conjunction of our whole force, uponone particular expedition, seemed to alarm them. But we assured themthat we were not going to assault the village; and so, after a gooddeal of gibberish, they permitted us to leave. 

We went straight to the Pritchard residence, where the consul dwelt. This house--to which I have before referred--is quite commodious. Ithas a wide verandah, glazed windows, and other appurtenances of acivilized mansion. Upon the lawn in front are palm-trees standingerect here and there, like sentinels. The Consular Office, a smallbuilding by itself, is inclosed by the same picket which fences in thelawn. 

We found the office closed; but, in the verandah of thedwelling-house, was a lady performing a tonsorial operation on thehead of a prim-looking, elderly European, in a low, whitecravat;--the most domestic little scene I had witnessed since leavinghome. Bent upon an interview with Wilson, the sailors now deputed thedoctor to step forward as a polite inquirer after his health. 

The pair stared very hard as he advanced; but no ways disconcerted, hesaluted them gravely, and inquired for the consul. 

Upon being informed that he had gone down to the beach, we proceededin that direction; and soon met a native, who told us that, apprisedof our vicinity, Wilson was keeping out of the way. We resolved tomeet him; and passing through the village, he suddenly came walkingtoward us; having apparently made up his mind that any attempt toelude us would be useless. 

"What do you want of me, you rascals?" he cried--a greeting whichprovoked a retort in no measured terms. At this juncture, the nativesbegan to crowd round, and several foreigners strolled along. Caughtin the very act of speaking to such disreputable acquaintances, Wilson now fidgeted, and moved rapidly toward his office; the menfollowing. Turning upon them incensed, he bade them be off--he wouldhave nothing more to say to us; and then, hurriedly addressing CaptainBob in Tahitian, he hastened on, and never stopped till the posternof Pritchard's wicket was closed behind him. 

Our good old keeper was now highly excited, bustling about in his hugepetticoats, and conjuring us to return to the Calabooza. After alittle debate, we acquiesced. 

This interview was decisive. Sensible that none of the charges broughtagainst us would stand, yet unwilling formally to withdraw them, theconsul now wished to get rid of us altogether; but without beingsuspected of encouraging our escape. Thus only could we account forhis conduct. 

Some of the party, however, with a devotion to principle truly heroic, swore they would never leave him, happen what might. For my own part, I began to long for a change; and as there seemed to be no gettingaway in a ship, I resolved to hit upon some other expedient. Butfirst, I cast about for a comrade; and of course the long doctor waschosen. We at once laid our heads together; and for the present, resolved to disclose nothing to the rest. 

A few days previous, I had fallen in with a couple of Yankee lads, twins, who, originally deserting their ship at Tanning's Island (anuninhabited spot, but exceedingly prolific in fruit of all kinds), had, after a long residence there, roved about among the Societygroup. They were last from Imeeo--the island immediatelyadjoining--where they had been in the employ of two foreigners who hadrecently started a plantation there. These persons, they said, hadcharged them to send over from Papeetee, if they could, two white menfor field-labourers. 

Now, all but the prospect of digging and delving suited us exactly;but the opportunity for leaving the island was not to be slighted;and so we held ourselves in readiness to return with the planters;who, in a day or two, were expected to visit Papeetee in their boat. 

At the interview which ensued, we were introduced to them as Peter andPaul; and they agreed to give Peter and Paul fifteen silver dollars amonth, promising something more should we remain with thempermanently. What they wanted was men who would stay. To elude thenatives--many of whom, not exactly understanding our relations withthe consul, might arrest us, were they to see us departing--thecoming midnight was appointed for that purpose. 

When the hour drew nigh, we disclosed our intention to the rest. Someupbraided us for deserting them; others applauded, and said that, onthe first opportunity, they would follow our example. At last, webade them farewell. And there would now be a serene sadness inthinking over the scene--since we never saw them again--had not allbeen dashed by M'Gee's picking the doctor's pocket of a jack-knife, inthe very act of embracing him. 

We stole down to the beach, where, under the shadow of a grove, theboat was waiting. After some delay, we shipped the oars, and pullingoutside of the reef, set the sail; and with a fair wind, glided awayfor Imeeo. 

It was a pleasant trip. The moon was up--the air, warm--the waves, musical--and all above was the tropical night, one purple vault hunground with soft, trembling stars. 

The channel is some five leagues wide. On one hand, you have the threegreat peaks of Tahiti lording it over ranges of mountains andvalleys; and on the other, the equally romantic elevations of Imeeo, high above which a lone peak, called by our companions, "theMarling-pike, " shot up its verdant spire. 

The planters were quite sociable. They had been sea-faring men, andthis, of course, was a bond between us. To strengthen it, a flask ofwine was produced, one of several which had been procured in personfrom the French admiral's steward; for whom the planters, when on aformer visit to Papeetee, had done a good turn, by introducing theamorous Frenchman to the ladies ashore. Besides this, they had acalabash filled with wild boar's meat, baked yams, bread-fruit, andTombez potatoes. Pipes and tobacco also were produced; and whileregaling ourselves, plenty of stories were told about theneighbouring islands. 

At last we heard the roar of the Imeeo reef; and gliding through abreak, floated over the expanse within, which was smooth as a younggirl's brow, and beached the boat. 

CHAPTER LII. 

THE VALLEY OF MARTAIR

WE went up through groves to an open space, where we heard voices, anda light was seen glimmering from out a bamboo dwelling. It was theplanters' retreat; and in their absence, several girls were keepinghouse, assisted by an old native, who, wrapped up in tappa, lay inthe corner, smoking. 

A hasty meal was prepared, and after it we essayed a nap; but, alas! aplague, little anticipated, prevented. Unknown in Tahiti, themosquitoes here fairly eddied round us. But more of them anon. 

We were up betimes, and strolled out to view the country. We were inthe valley of Martair; shut in, on both sides, by lofty hills. Hereand there were steep cliffs, gay with flowering shrubs, or hung withpendulous vines, swinging blossoms in the air. Of considerable widthat the sea, the vale contracts as it runs inland; terminating, at thedistance of several miles, in a range of the most grotesqueelevations, which seem embattled with turrets and towers, grown overwith verdure, and waving with trees. The valley itself is awilderness of woodland; with links of streams flashing through, andnarrow pathways fairly tunnelled through masses of foliage. 

All alone, in this wild place, was the abode of the planters; the onlyone back from the beach--their sole neighbours, the few fishermen andtheir families, dwelling in a small grove of cocoa-nut trees whoseroots were washed by the sea. 

The cleared tract which they occupied comprised some thirty acres, level as a prairie, part of which was under cultivation; the wholebeing fenced in by a stout palisade of trunks and boughs of treesstaked firmly in the ground. This was necessary as a defence againstthe wild cattle and hogs overrunning the island. 

Thus far, Tombez potatoes were the principal crop raised; a ready salefor them being obtained among the shipping touching at Papeetee. There was a small patch of the taro, or Indian turnip, also; anotherof yams; and in one corner, a thrifty growth of the sugar-cane, justripening. 

On the side of the inclosure next the sea was the house; newly builtof bamboos, in the native style. The furniture consisted of a coupleof sea-chests, an old box, a few cooking utensils, and agriculturaltools; together with three fowling-pieces, hanging from a rafter; andtwo enormous hammocks swinging in opposite corners, and composed ofdried bullocks' hides, stretched out with poles. 

The whole plantation was shut in by a dense forest; and, close by thehouse, a dwarfed "Aoa, " or species of banian-tree, had purposely beenleft twisting over the palisade, in the most grotesque manner, andthus made a pleasant shade. The branches of this curious treeafforded low perches, upon which the natives frequently squatted, after the fashion of their race, and smoked and gossiped by the hour. 

We had a good breakfast of fish--speared by the natives, beforesunrise, on the reef--pudding of Indian turnip, fried bananas, androasted bread-fruit. 

During the repast, our new friends were quite sociable andcommunicative. It seems that, like nearly all uneducated foreigners, residing in Polynesia, they had, some time previous, deserted from aship; and, having heard a good deal about the money to be made byraising supplies for whaling-vessels, they determined upon embarkingin the business. Strolling about, with this intention, they, at last, came to Martair; and, thinking the soil would suit, set themselves towork. They began by finding out the owner of the particular spotcoveted, and then making a "tayo" of him. 

He turned out to be Tonoi, the chief of the fishermen: who, one day, when exhilarated with brandy, tore his meagre tappa from his loins, and gave me to know that he was allied by blood with Pomaree herself;and that his mother came from the illustrious race of pontiffs, who, in old times, swayed their bamboo crosier over all the pagans ofImeeo. A regal, and right reverend lineage! But, at the time I speakof, the dusky noble was in decayed circumstances, and, therefore, byno means unwilling to alienate a few useless acres. As an equivalent, he received from the strangers two or three rheumatic old muskets, several red woollen shirts, and a promise to be provided for in hisold age: he was always to find a home with the planters. 

Desirous of living on the cosy footing of a father-in-law, he franklyoffered his two daughters for wives; but as such, they were politelydeclined; the adventurers, though not averse to courting, beingunwilling to entangle themselves in a matrimonial alliance, howeversplendid in point of family. 

Tonoi's men, the fishermen of the grove, were a sad set. Secluded, ina great measure, from the ministrations of the missionaries, theygave themselves up to all manner of lazy wickedness. Strolling amongthe trees of a morning, you came upon them napping on the shady sideof a canoe hauled up among the bushes; lying on a tree smoking; or, more frequently still, gambling with pebbles; though, a littletobacco excepted, what they gambled for at their outlandish games, itwould be hard to tell. Other idle diversions they had also, in whichthey seemed to take great delight. As for fishing, it employed but asmall part of their time. Upon the whole, they were a merry, indigent, godless race. 

Tonoi, the old sinner, leaning against the fallen trunk of a cocoa-nuttree, invariably squandered his mornings at pebbles; a gray-headedrook of a native regularly plucking him of every other stick oftobacco obtained from his friends, the planters. Toward afternoon, he strolled back to their abode; where he tarried till the nextmorning, smoking and snoozing, and, at times, prating about thehapless fortunes of the House of Tonoi. But like any other easy-goingold dotard, he seemed for the most part perfectly content withcheerful board and lodging. 

On the whole, the valley of Martair was the quietest place imaginable. Could the mosquitoes be induced to emigrate, one might spend themonth of August there quite pleasantly. But this was not the casewith the luckless Long Ghost and myself; as will presently be seen. 

CHAPTER LIII. 

FARMING IN POLYNESIA

THE planters were both whole-souled fellows; but, in other respects, as unlike as possible. 

One was a tall, robust Yankee, hern in the backwoods of Maine, sallow, and with a long face;--the other was a short little Cockney, who hadfirst clapped his eyes on the Monument. 

The voice of Zeke, the Yankee, had a twang like a cracked viol; andShorty (as his comrade called him), clipped the aspirate from everyword beginning with one. The latter, though not the tallest man inthe world, was a good-looking young fellow of twenty-five. His cheekswere dyed with the fine Saxon red, burned deeper from his rovinglife: his blue eye opened well, and a profusion of fair hair curledover a well-shaped head. 

But Zeke was no beauty. A strong, ugly man, he was well adapted formanual labour; and that was all. His eyes were made to see with, andnot for ogling. Compared with the Cockney, he was grave, and rathertaciturn; but there was a deal of good old humour bottled up in him, after all. For the rest, he was frank, good-hearted, shrewd, andresolute; and like Shorty, quite illiterate. 

Though a curious conjunction, the pair got along together famously. But, as no two men were ever united in any enterprise without onegetting the upper hand of the other, so in most matters Zeke had hisown way. Shorty, too, had imbibed from him a spirit of invincibleindustry; and Heaven only knows what ideas of making a fortune ontheir plantation. 

We were much concerned at this; for the prospect of their setting us, in their own persons, an example of downright hard labour, wasanything but agreeable. But it was now too late to repent what we haddone. 

The first day--thank fortune--we did nothing. Having treated us asguests thus far, they no doubt thought it would be wanting indelicacy to set us to work before the compliments of the occasionwere well over. The next morning, however, they both lookedbusiness-like, and we were put to. 

"Wall, b'ys" (boys), said Zeke, knocking the ashes out of his pipe, after breakfast--"we must get at it. Shorty, give Peter there (thedoctor), the big hoe, and Paul the other, and let's be off. " Going toa corner, Shorty brought forth three of the implements; anddistributing them impartially, trudged on after his partner, who tookthe lead with something in the shape of an axe. 

For a moment left alone in the house, we looked at each other, quaking. We were each equipped with a great, clumsy piece of a tree, armed at one end with a heavy, flat mass of iron. 

The cutlery part--especially adapted to a primitive soil--was animportation from Sydney; the handles must have been of domesticmanufacture. "Hoes"--so called--we had heard of, and seen; but theywere harmless in comparison with the tools in our hands. 

"What's to be done with them?" inquired I of Peter. 

"Lift them up and down, " he replied; "or put them in motion some wayor other. Paul, we are in a scrape--but hark! they are calling;" andshouldering the hoes, off we marched. '

Our destination was the farther side of the plantation, where theground, cleared in part, had not yet been broken up; but they werenow setting about it. Upon halting, I asked why a plough was notused; some of the young wild steers might be caught and trained fordraught. 

Zeke replied that, for such a purpose, no cattle, to his knowledge, had ever been used in any part of Polynesia. As for the soil ofMartair, so obstructed was it with roots, crossing and recrossingeach other at all points, that no kind of a plough could be used toadvantage. The heavy Sydney hoes were the only thing for such land. 

Our work was now before us; but, previous to commencing operations, Iendeavoured to engage the Yankee in a little further friendly chatconcerning the nature of virgin soils in general, and that of thevalley of Martair in particular. So masterly a stratagem made LongGhost brighten up; and he stood by ready to join in. But what ourfriend had to say about agriculture all referred to the particularpart of his plantation upon which we stood; and having communicatedenough on this head to enable us to set to work to the bestadvantage, he fell to, himself; and Shorty, who had been looking on, followed suit. 

The surface, here and there, presented closely amputated branches ofwhat had once been a dense thicket. They seemed purposely leftprojecting, as if to furnish a handle whereby to drag out the rootsbeneath. After loosening the hard soil, by dint of much thumping andpounding, the Yankee jerked one of the roots this way and that, twisting it round and round, and then tugging at it horizontally. 

"Come! lend us a hand!" he cried, at last; and running up, we all fourstrained away in concert. The tough obstacle convulsed the surfacewith throes and spasms; but stuck fast, notwithstanding. 

"Dumn it!" cried Zeke, "we'll have to get a rope; run to the house, Shorty, and fetch one. "

The end of this being attached, we took plenty of room, and strainedaway once more. 

"Give us a song, Shorty, " said the doctor; who was rather sociable, ona short acquaintance. Where the work to be accomplished is any waydifficult, this mode of enlivening toil is quite efficacious amongsailors. So willing to make everything as cheerful as possible, Shorty struck up, "Were you ever in Dumbarton?" a marvellouslyinspiring, but somewhat indecorous windlass chorus. 

At last, the Yankee cast a damper on his enthusiasm by exclaiming, ina pet, "Oh! dumn your singing! keep quiet, and pull away!" This wenow did, in the most uninteresting silence; until, with a jerk thatmade every elbow hum, the root dragged out; and most inelegantly, weall landed upon the ground. The doctor, quite exhausted, stayedthere; and, deluded into believing that, after so doughty aperformance, we would be allowed a cessation of toil, took off hishat, and fanned himself. 

"Rayther a hard customer, that, Peter, " observed the Yankee, going upto him: "but it's no use for any on 'em to hang back; for I'm dumnedif they hain't got to come out, whether or no. Hurrah! let's get atit agin!"

"Mercy!" ejaculated the doctor, rising slowly, and turning round. "He'll be the death of us!"

Falling to with our hoes again, we worked singly, or together, asoccasion required, until "Nooning Time" came. 

The period, so called by the planters, embraced about three hours inthe middle of the day; during which it was so excessively hot, inthis still, brooding valley, shut out from the Trades, and only opentoward the leeward side of the island, that labour in the sun was outof the question. To use a hyperbolical phrase of Shorty's, "It was'ot enough to melt the nose h'off a brass monkey. "

Returning to the house, Shorty, assisted by old Tonoi, cooked thedinner; and, after we had all partaken thereof, both the Cockney andZeke threw themselves into one of the hammocks, inviting us to occupythe other. Thinking it no bad idea, we did so; and, after skirmishingwith the mosquitoes, managed to fall into a doze. As for theplanters, more accustomed to "Nooning, " they, at once, presented anuptial back to each other; and were soon snoring away at a greatrate. Tonoi snoozed on a mat, in one corner. 

At last, we were roused by Zeke's crying out, "Up b'ys; up! rise, andshine; time to get at it agin!"

Looking at the doctor, I perceived, very plainly, that he had decidedupon something. 

In a languid voice, he told Zeke that he was not very well: indeed, that he had not been himself for some time past; though a littlerest, no doubt, would recruit him. The Yankee thinking, from this, that our valuable services might be lost to him altogether, were hetoo hard upon us at the outset, at once begged us both to consult ourown feelings, and not exert ourselves for the present, unless we feltlike it. Then--without recognizing the fact that my comrade claimedto be actually unwell--he simply suggested that, since he was sotired, he had better, perhaps, swing in his hammock for the rest ofthe day. If agreeable, however, I myself might accompany him upon alittle bullock-hunting excursion in the neighbouring hills. In thisproposition, I gladly acquiesced; though Peter, who was a greatsportsman, put on a long face. The muskets and ammunition wereforthwith got from overhead; and, everything being then ready, Zekecried out, "Tonoi! come; aramai! (get up) we want you for pilot. Shorty, my lad, look arter things, you know; and if you likes, why, there's them roots in the field yonder. "

Having thus arranged his domestic affairs to please himself, thoughlittle to Shorty's satisfaction, I thought, he slung his powder-hornover his shoulder, and we started. Tonoi was, at once, sent on inadvance; and leaving the plantation, he struck into a path which ledtoward the mountains. 

After hurrying through the thickets for some time, we came out intothe sunlight, in an open glade, just under the shadow of the hills. Here, Zeke pointed aloft to a beetling crag far distant, where abullock, with horns thrown back, stood like a statue. 

CHAPTER LIV. 

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA

BEFORE we proceed further, a word or two concerning these wild cattle, and the way they came on the island. 

Some fifty years ago, Vancouver left several bullocks, sheep andgoats, at various places in the Society group. He instructed thenatives to look after the animals carefully; and by no means toslaughter any until a considerable stock had accumulated. 

The sheep must have died off: for I never saw a solitary fleece in anypart of Polynesia. The pair left were an ill-assorted couple, perhaps; separated in disgust, and died without issue. 

As for the goats, occasionally you come across a black, misanthropicram, nibbling the scant herbage of some height inaccessible to man, in preference to the sweet grasses of the valley below. The goats arenot very numerous. 

The bullocks, coming of a prolific ancestry, are a hearty set, racingover the island of Imeeo in considerable numbers, though in Tahitibut few of them are seen. At the former place, the original pair musthave scampered off to the interior since it is now so thicklypopulated by their wild progeny. The herds are the private propertyof Queen Pomaree; from whom the planters had obtained permission toshoot for their own use as many as they pleased. 

The natives stand in great awe of these cattle; and for this reasonare excessively timid in crossing the island, preferring rather tosail round to an opposite village in their canoes. 

Tonoi abounded in bullock stories; most of which, by the bye, had aspice of the marvellous. The following is one of these. 

Once upon a time, he was going over the hills with a brother--now nomore--when a great bull came bellowing out of a wood, and both tookto their heels. The old chief sprang into a tree; his companion, flying in an opposite direction, was pursued, and, in the very act ofreaching up to a bough, trampled underfoot. The unhappy man was thengored--tossed in the air--and finally run away with on the bull'shorns. More dead than alive, Tonoi waited till all was over, and thenmade the best of his way home. The neighbours, armed with two orthree muskets, at once started to recover, if possible, hisunfortunate brother's remains. At nightfall, they returned withoutdiscovering any trace of him; but the next morning, Tonoi himselfcaught a glimpse of the bullock, marching across the mountain's brow, with a long dark object borne aloft on his horns. 

Having referred to Vancouver's attempts to colonize the islands withuseful quadrupeds, we may as well say something concerning hissuccess upon Hawaii, one of the largest islands in the wholePolynesian Archipelago; and which gives the native name to thewell-known cluster named by Cook in honour of Lord Sandwich. 

Hawaii is some one hundred leagues in circuit, and covers an area ofover four thousand miles. Until within a few years past, its interiorwas almost unknown, even to the inhabitants themselves, who, forages, had been prevented from wandering thither by certain strangesuperstitions. Pelee, the terrific goddess of the volcanoes Mount Eoaand Mount Kea, was supposed to guard all the passes to the extensivevalleys lying round their base. There are legends of her having chasedwith streams of fire several impious adventurers. Near Hilo, ajet-black cliff is shown, with the vitreous torrent apparentlypouring over into the sea: just as it cooled after one of thesesupernatural eruptions. 

To these inland valleys, and the adjoining hillsides, which areclothed in the most luxuriant vegetation, Vancouver's bullocks soonwandered; and unmolested for a long period, multiplied in vast herds. 

Some twelve or fifteen years ago, the natives lost sight of theirsuperstitions, and learning the value of the hides in commerce, beganhunting the creatures that wore them; but being very fearful andawkward in a business so novel, their success was small; and it wasnot until the arrival of a party of Spanish hunters, men regularlytrained to their calling upon the plains of California, that the workof slaughter was fairly begun. 

The Spaniards were showy fellows, tricked out in gay blankets, leggings worked with porcupine quills, and jingling spurs. Mountedupon trained Indian mares, these heroes pursued their prey up to thevery base of the burning mountains; making the profoundest solitudesring with their shouts, and flinging the lasso under the very nose ofthe vixen goddess Pelee. Hilo, a village upon the coast, was theirplace of resort; and thither flocked roving whites from all theislands of the group. As pupils of the dashing Spaniards, many ofthese dissipated fellows, quaffing too freely of the stirrup-cup, andriding headlong after the herds, when they reeled in the saddle, wereunhorsed and killed. 

This was about the year 1835, when the present king, Tammahamaha III. , was a lad. With royal impudence laying claim to the sole property ofthe cattle, he was delighted with the idea of receiving one of everytwo silver dollars paid down for their hides; so, with no thought forthe future, the work of extermination went madly on. In three years'time, eighteen thousand bullocks were slain, almost entirely upon thesingle island of Hawaii. 

The herds being thus nearly destroyed, the sagacious young princeimposed a rigorous "taboo" upon the few surviving cattle, which wasto remain in force for ten years. During this period--not yetexpired--all hunting is forbidden, unless directly authorized by theking. 

The massacre of the cattle extended to the hapless goats. In one year, three thousand of their skins were sold to the merchants of Honolulu, fetching a quartila, or a shilling sterling apiece. 

After this digression, it is time to run on after Tonoi and theYankee. 

CHAPTER LV. 

A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE

AT THE foot of the mountain, a steep path went up among rocks andclefts mantled with verdure. Here and there were green gulfs, downwhich it made one giddy to peep. At last we gained an overhanging, wooded shelf of land which crowned the heights; and along this, thepath, well shaded, ran like a gallery. 

In every direction the scenery was enchanting. There was a low, rustling breeze; and below, in the vale, the leaves were quivering;the sea lay, blue and serene, in the distance; and inland the surfaceswelled up, ridge after ridge, and peak upon peak, all bathed in theIndian haze of the Tropics, and dreamy to look upon. Still valleys, leagues away, reposed in the deep shadows of the mountains; and hereand there, waterfalls lifted up their voices in the solitude. Highabove all, and central, the "Marling-spike" lifted its finger. Uponthe hillsides, small groups of bullocks were seen; some quietlybrowsing; others slowly winding into the valleys. 

We went on, directing our course for a slope of these hills, a mile ortwo further, where the nearest bullocks were seen. 

We were cautious in keeping to the windward of them; their sense ofsmell and hearing being, like those of all wild creatures, exceedingly acute. 

As there was no knowing that we might not surprise some other kind ofgame in the coverts through which we were passing, we crept alongwarily. 

The wild hogs of the island are uncommonly fierce; and as they oftenattack the natives, I could not help following Tonoi's example ofonce in a while peeping in under the foliage. Frequent retrospectiveglances also served to assure me that our retreat was not cut off. 

As we rounded a clump of bushes, a noise behind them, like thecrackling of dry branches, broke the stillness. In an instant, Tonoi's hand was on a bough, ready for a spring, and Zeke's fingertouched the trigger of his piece. Again the stillness was broken; andthinking it high time to get ready, I brought my musket to myshoulder. 

"Look sharp!" cried the Yankee; and dropping on one knee, he brushedthe twigs aside. Presently, off went his piece; and with a wildsnort, a black, bristling boar--his cherry red lip curled up by twoglittering tusks--dashed, unharmed, across the path, and crashedthrough the opposite thicket. I saluted him with a charge as hedisappeared; but not the slightest notice was taken of the civility. 

By this time, Tonoi, the illustrious descendant of the Bishops ofImeeo, was twenty feet from the ground. "Aramai! come down, you oldfool!" cried the Yankee; "the pesky critter's on t'other side of theisland afore this. "

"I rayther guess, " he continued, as we began reloading, "that we'vespoiled sport by firing at that 'ere tarnal hog. Them bullocks heardthe racket, and are flinging their tails about now on the keen jump. Quick, Paul, and let's climb that rock yonder, and see if so bethere's any in sight. "

But none were to be seen, except at such a distance that they lookedlike ants. 

As evening was now at hand, my companion proposed our returning homeforthwith; and then, after a sound night's rest, starting in themorning upon a good day's hunt with the whole force of theplantation. 

Following another pass in descending into the valley, we passedthrough some nobly wooded land on the face of the mountain. 

One variety of tree particularly attracted my attention. The darkmossy stem, over seventy feet high, was perfectly branchless for manyfeet above the ground, when it shot out in broad boughs laden withlustrous leaves of the deepest green. And all round the lower part ofthe trunk, thin, slab-like buttresses of bark, perfectly smooth, andradiating from a common centre, projected along the ground for atleast two yards. From below, these natural props tapered upward untilgradually blended with the trunk itself. There were signs of the wildcattle having sheltered themselves behind them. Zeke called this thecanoe tree; as in old times it supplied the navies of the Kings ofTahiti. For canoe building, the woods is still used. Being extremelydense, and impervious to worms, it is very durable. 

Emerging from the forest, when half-way down the hillside, we cameupon an open space, covered with ferns and grass, over which a fewlonely trees were casting long shadows in the setting sun. Here, apiece of ground some hundred feet square, covered with weeds andbrambles, and sounding hollow to the tread, was inclosed by a ruinouswall of stones. Tonoi said it was an almost forgotten burial-place, ofgreat antiquity, where no one had been interred since the islandershad been Christians. Sealed up in dry, deep vaults, many a deadheathen was lying here. 

Curious to prove the old man's statement, I was anxious to get a peepat the catacombs; but hermetically overgrown with vegetation as theywere, no aperture was visible. 

Before gaining the level of the valley, we passed by the site of avillage, near a watercourse, long since deserted. There was nothingbut stone walls, and rude dismantled foundations of houses, constructed of the same material. Large trees and brushwood weregrowing rankly among them. 

I asked Tonoi how long it was since anyone had lived here. "Me, tammaree (boy)--plenty kannaker (men) Martair, " he replied. "Now, only poor pehe kannaka (fishermen) left--me born here. "

Going down the valley, vegetation of every kind presented a differentaspect from that of the high land. 

Chief among the trees of the plain on this island is the "Ati, " largeand lofty, with a massive trunk, and broad, laurel-shaped leaves. Thewood is splendid. In Tahiti, I was shown a narrow, polished plank fitto make a cabinet for a king. Taken from the heart of the tree, itwas of a deep, rich scarlet, traced with yellow veins, and in someplaces clouded with hazel. 

In the same grove with the regal "AH" you may see the beautifulflowering "Hotoo"; its pyramid of shining leaves diversified withnumberless small, white blossoms. 

Planted with trees as the valley is almost throughout its entirelength, I was astonished to observe so very few which were useful tothe natives: not one in a hundred was a cocoa-nut or bread-fruittree. 

But here Tonoi again enlightened me. In the sanguinary religioushostilities which ensued upon the conversion of Christianity of thefirst Pomaree, a war-party from Tahiti destroyed (by "girdling" thebark) entire groves of these invaluable trees. For some timeafterwards they stood stark and leafless in the sun; sad monuments ofthe fate which befell the inhabitants of the valley. 

CHAPTER LVI. 

MOSQUITOES

THE NIGHT following the hunting trip, Long Ghost and myself, after avaliant defence, had to fly the house on account of the mosquitoes. 

And here I cannot avoid relating a story, rife among the natives, concerning the manner in which these insects were introduced upon theisland. 

Some years previous, a whaling captain, touching at an adjoining bay, got into difficulty with its inhabitants, and at last carried hiscomplaint before one of the native tribunals; but receiving nosatisfaction, and deeming himself aggrieved, he resolved upon takingsignal revenge. One night, he towed a rotten old water-cask ashore, and left it in a neglected Taro patch where the ground was warm andmoist. Hence the mosquitoes. 

I tried my best to learn the name of this man; and hereby do what Ican to hand it down to posterity. It was Coleman--Nathan Cole-man. The ship belonged to Nantucket. 

When tormented by the mosquitoes, I found much relief in coupling theword "Coleman" with another of one syllable, and pronouncing themtogether energetically. 

The doctor suggested a walk to the beach, where there was a long, lowshed tumbling to pieces, but open lengthwise to a current of airwhich he thought might keep off the mosquitoes. So thither we went. 

The ruin partially sheltered a relic of times gone by, which, a fewdays after, we examined with much curiosity. It was an old war-canoe, crumbling to dust. Being supported by the same rude blocks uponwhich, apparently, it had years before been hollowed out, in allprobability it had never been afloat. 

Outside, it seemed originally stained of a green colour, which, hereand there, was now changed into a dingy purple. The prow terminatedin a high, blunt beak; both sides were covered with carving; and uponthe stern, was something which Long Ghost maintained to be the armsof the royal House of Pomaree. The device had an heraldic look, certainly--being two sharks with the talons of hawks clawing a knotleft projecting from the wood. 

The canoe was at least forty feet long, about two wide, and four deep. The upper part--consisting of narrow planks laced together with cordsof sinnate--had in many places fallen off, and lay decaying upon theground. Still, there were ample accommodations left for sleeping; andin we sprang--the doctor into the bow, and I into the stern. I soonfell asleep; but waking suddenly, cramped in every joint from myconstrained posture, I thought, for an instant, that I must have beenprematurely screwed down in my coffin. 

Presenting my compliments to Long Ghost, I asked how it fared withhim. 

"Bad enough, " he replied, as he tossed about in the outlandish rubbishlying in the bottom of our couch. "Pah! how these old mats smell!"

As he continued talking in this exciting strain for some time, I atlast made no reply, having resumed certain mathematical reveries toinduce repose. But finding the multiplication table of no avail, Isummoned up a grayish image of chaos in a sort of sliding fluidity, and was just falling into a nap on the strength of it, when I heard asolitary and distinct buzz. The hour of my calamity was at hand. Oneblended hum, the creature darted into the canoe like a smallswordfish; and I out of it. 

Upon getting into the open air, to my surprise, there was Long Ghost, fanning himself wildly with an old paddle. He had just made anoiseless escape from a swarm which had attacked his own end of thecanoe. 

It was now proposed to try the water; so a small fishing canoe, hauledup near by, was quickly launched; and paddling a good distance off, we dropped overboard the native contrivance for an anchor--a heavystone, attached to a cable of braided bark. At this part of theisland the encircling reef was close to the shore, leaving the waterwithin smooth, and extremely shallow. 

It was a blessed thought! We knew nothing till sunrise, when themotion of our aquatic cot awakened us. I looked up, and beheld Zekewading toward the shore, and towing us after him by the bark cable. Pointing to the reef, he told us we had had a narrow escape. 

It was true enough; the water-sprites had rolled our stone out of itsnoose, and we had floated away. 

CHAPTER LVII. 

THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS

FAIR dawned, over the hills of Martair, the jocund morning of ourhunt. 

Everything had been prepared for it overnight; and, when we arrived atthe house, a good breakfast was spread by Shorty: and old Tonoi wasbustling about like an innkeeper. Several of his men, also, were inattendance to accompany us with calabashes of food; and, in case wemet with any success, to officiate as bearers of burdens on ourreturn. 

Apprised, the evening previous, of the meditated sport, the doctor hadannounced his willingness to take part therein. 

Now, subsequent events made us regard this expedition as a shrewddevice of the Yankee's. Once get us off on a pleasure trip, and withwhat face could we afterward refuse to work? Beside, he enjoyed allthe credit of giving us a holiday. Nor did he omit assuring us that, work or play, our wages were all the while running on. 

A dilapidated old musket of Tonoi's was borrowed for the doctor. Itwas exceedingly short and heavy, with a clumsy lock, which required astrong finger to pull the trigger. On trying the piece by firing ata mark, Long Ghost was satisfied that it could not fail of doingexecution: the charge went one way, and he the other. 

Upon this, he endeavoured to negotiate an exchange of muskets withShorty; but the Cockney was proof against his blandishments; at last, he intrusted his weapon to one of the natives to carry for him. 

Marshalling our forces, we started for the head of the valley; nearwhich a path ascended to a range of high land, said to be a favouriteresort of the cattle. 

Shortly after gaining the heights, a small herd, some way off, wasperceived entering a wood. We hurried on; and, dividing our party, went in after them at four different points; each white man followedby several natives. 

I soon found myself in a dense covert; and, after looking round, wasjust emerging into a clear space, when I heard a report, and a bulletknocked the bark from a tree near by. The same instant there was atrampling and crashing; and five bullocks, nearly abreast, broke intoView across the opening, and plunged right toward the spot wheremyself and three of the islanders were standing. 

They were small, black, vicious-looking creatures; with short, sharphorns, red nostrils, and eyes like coals of fire. On they came--theirdark woolly heads hanging down. 

By this time my island backers were roosting among the trees. Glancinground, for an instant, to discover a retreat in case of emergency, Iraised my piece, when a voice cried out, from the wood, "Rightbetween the 'orns, Paul! right between the 'orns!" Down went mybarrel in range with a small white tuft on the forehead of theheadmost one; and, letting him have it, I darted to one side. As Iturned again, the five bullocks shot by like a blast, making the aireddy in their wake. 

The Yankee now burst into view, and saluted them in flank. Whereupon, the fierce little bull with the tufted forehead flirted his long tailover his buttocks; kicked out with his hind feet, and shot forward afull length. It was nothing but a graze; and, in an instant, theywere out of sight, the thicket into which they broke rockingoverhead, and marking their progress. 

The action over, the heavy artillery came up, in the person of theLong Doctor with the blunderbuss. 

"Where are they?" he cried, out of breath. 

"A mile or two h'off, by this time, " replied the Cockney. "Lord, PaulI you ought to've sent an 'ailstone into that little black 'un. "

While excusing my want of skill, as well as I could, Zeke, rushingforward, suddenly exclaimed, "Creation! what are you 'bout there, Peter?"

Peter, incensed at our ill luck, and ignorantly imputing it to thecowardice of our native auxiliaries, was bringing his piece to bearupon his trembling squire--the musket-carrier--now descending a tree. 

Pulling trigger, the bullet went high over his head; and, hopping tothe ground, bellowing like a calf, the fellow ran away as fast as hisheels could carry him. The rest followed us, after this, with fearand trembling. 

After forming our line of march anew, we went on for several hourswithout catching a glimpse of the game; the reports of the musketshaving been heard at a great distance. At last, we mounted a craggyheight, to obtain a wide view of the country. Prom this place, webeheld three cattle quietly browsing in a green opening of a woodbelow; the trees shutting them in all round. 

A general re-examination of the muskets now took place, followed by ahasty lunch from the calabashes: we then started. As we descended themountainside the cattle were in plain sight until we entered theforest, when we lost sight of them for a moment; but only to see themagain, as we crept close up to the spot where they grazed. 

They were a bull, a cow, and a calf. The cow was lying down in theshade, by the edge of the wood; the calf, sprawling out before her inthe grass, licking her lips; while old Taurus himself stood close by, casting a paternal glance at this domestic little scene, andconjugally elevating his nose in the air. 

"Now then, " said Zeke, in a whisper, "let's take the poor creeturs whilethey are huddled together. Crawl along, b'ys; crawl along. Firetogether, mind; and not till I say the word. "

We crept up to the very edge of the open ground, and knelt behind aclump of bushes; resting our levelled barrels among the branches. Theslight rustling was heard. Taurus turned round, dropped his head tothe ground, and sent forth a low, sullen bellow; then snuffed theair. The cow rose on her foreknees, pitched forward alannedly, andstood upon her legs; while the calf, with ears pricked, got rightunderneath her. All three were now grouped, and in an instant would beoff. 

"I take the bull, " cried our leader; "fire!"

The calf fell like a clod; its dam uttered a cry, and thrust her headinto the thicket; but she turned, and came moaning up to the lifelesscalf, going round and round it, snuffing fiercely with her bleedingnostrils. A crashing in the wood, and a loud roar, announced theflying bull. 

Soon, another shot was fired, and the cow fell. Leaving some of thenatives to look after the dead cattle, the rest of us hurried onafter the bull; his dreadful bellowing guiding us to the spot wherehe lay. Wounded in the shoulder, in his fright and agony he hadbounded into the wood; but when we came up to him, he had sunk to theearth in a green hollow, thrusting his black muzzle into a pool of hisown blood, and tossing it over his hide in clots. 

The Yankee brought his piece to a rest; and, the next instant, thewild brute sprang into the air, and with his forelegs crouching underhim, fell dead. 

Our island friends were now in high spirits; all courage and alacrity. Old Tonoi thought nothing of taking poor Taurus himself by the horns, and peering into his glazed eyes. 

Our ship knives were at once in request; and, skinning the cattle, wehung them high up by cords of bark from the boughs of a tree. Withdrawing into a covert, we there waited for the wild hogs; which, according to Zeke, would soon make their appearance, lured by thesmell of blood. Presently we heard them coming, in two or threedifferent directions; and, in a moment, they were tearing the offal topieces. 

As only one shot at these creatures could be relied on, we intendedfiring simultaneously; but, somehow or other, the doctor's piece wentoff by itself, and one of the hogs dropped. The others then breakinginto the thicket, the rest of us sprang after them; resolved to haveanother shot at all hazards. 

The Cockney darted among some bushes; and, a few moments after, weheard the report of his musket, followed by a quick cry. On runningup, we saw our comrade doing battle with a young devil of a boar, asblack as night, whose snout had been partly torn away. Firing whenthe game was in full career, and coming directly toward him, Shortyhad been assailed by the enraged brute; it was now crunching thebreech of the musket, with which he had tried to club it; Shortyholding fast to the barrel, and fingering his waist for a knife. Being in advance of the others, I clapped my gun to the boar's head, and so put an end to the contest. 

Evening now coming on, we set to work loading our carriers. The cattlewere so small that a stout native could walk off with an entirequarter; brushing through thickets, and descending rocks without anapparent effort; though, to tell the truth, no white man presentcould have done the thing with any ease. As for the wild hogs, noneof the islanders could be induced to carry Shorty's; some invinciblesuperstition being connected with its black colour. We were, therefore, obliged to leave it. The other, a spotted one, being slungby green thongs to a pole, was marched off with by two young natives. 

With our bearers of burdens ahead, we then commenced our return downthe valley. Half-way home, darkness overtook us in the woods; andtorches became necessary. We stopped, and made them of dry palmbranches; and then, sending two lads on in advance for the purpose ofgathering fuel to feed the flambeaux, we continued our journey. 

It was a wild sight. The torches, waved aloft, flashed through theforest; and, where the ground admitted, the islanders went along on abrisk trot, notwithstanding they bent forward under their loads. Their naked backs were stained with blood; and occasionally, runningby each other, they raised wild cries which startled the hillsides. 

CHAPTER LVIII. 

THE HUNTING-FEAST; AND A VISIT TO AFREHITOO

TWO BULLOCKS and a boar! No bad trophies of our day's sport. So bytorchlight we marched into the plantation, the wild hog rocking fromits pole, and the doctor singing an old hunting-song--Tally-ho! thechorus of which swelled high above the yells of the natives. 

We resolved to make a night of it. Kindling a great fire just outsidethe dwelling, and hanging one of the heifer's quarters from a limb ofthe banian-tree, everyone was at liberty to cut and broil forhimself. Baskets of roasted bread-fruit, and plenty of taro pudding;bunches of bananas, and young cocoa-nuts, had also been provided bythe natives against our return. 

The fire burned bravely, keeping off the mosquitoes, and making everyman's face glow like a beaker of Port. The meat had the truewild-game flavour, not at all impaired by our famous appetites, and acouple of flasks of white brandy, which Zeke, producing from hissecret store, circulated freely. 

There was no end to my long comrade's spirits. After telling hisstories, and singing his songs, he sprang to his feet, clasped ayoung damsel of the grove round the waist, and waltzed over the grasswith her. But there's no telling all the pranks he played that night. The natives, who delight in a wag, emphatically pronounced him"maitai. "

It was long after midnight ere we broke up; but when the rest hadretired, Zeke, with the true thrift of a Yankee, salted down what wasleft of the meat. 

The next day was Sunday; and at my request, Shorty accompanied me toAfrehitoo--a neighbouring bay, and the seat of a mission, almostdirectly opposite Papeetee. In Afrehitoo is a large church andschool-house, both quite dilapidated; and planted amid shrubbery on afine knoll, stands a very tasteful cottage, commanding a view acrossthe channel. In passing, I caught sight of a graceful calico skirtdisappearing from the piazza through a doorway. The place was theresidence of the missionary. 

A trim little sail-boat was dancing out at her moorings, a few yardsfrom the beach. 

Straggling over the low lands in the vicinity were several nativehuts--untidy enough--but much better every way than most of those inTahiti. 

We attended service at the church, where we found but a smallcongregation; and after what I had seen in Papeetee, nothing veryinteresting took place. But the audience had a curious, fidgety look, which I knew not how to account for until we ascertained that asermon with the eighth commandment for a text was being preached. 

It seemed that there lived an Englishman in the district, who, likeour friends, the planters, was cultivating Tombez potatoes for thePapeetee market. 

In spite of all his precautions, the natives were in the habit ofmaking nocturnal forays into his inclosure, and carrying off thepotatoes. One night he fired a fowling-piece, charged with pepper andsalt, at several shadows which he discovered stealing across hispremises. They fled. But it was like seasoning anything else; theknaves stole again with a greater relish than ever; and the very nextnight, he caught a party in the act of roasting a basketful ofpotatoes under his own cooking-shed. At last, he stated hisgrievances to the missionary; who, for the benefit of hiscongregation, preached the sermon we heard. 

Now, there were no thieves in Martair; but then, the people of thevalley were bribed to be honest. It was a regular businesstransaction between them and the planters. In consideration of somany potatoes "to them in hand, duly paid, " they were to abstain fromall depredations upon the plantation. Another security against roguerywas the permanent residence upon the premises of their chief, Tonoi. 

On our return to Martair in the afternoon, we found the doctor andZeke making themselves comfortable. The latter was reclining on theground, pipe in mouth, watching the doctor, who, sitting like a Turk, before a large iron kettle, was slicing potatoes and Indian turnip, and now and then shattering splinters from a bone; all of which, byturns, were thrown into the pot. He was making what he called"Bullock broth. "

In gastronomic affairs, my friend was something of an artist; and byway of improving his knowledge, did nothing the rest of the day butpractise in what might be called Experimental Cookery: broiling andgrilling, and deviling slices of meat, and subjecting them to allsorts of igneous operations. It was the first fresh beef that eitherof us had tasted in more than a year. 

"Oh, ye'll pick up arter a while, Peter, " observed Zeke toward night, as Long Ghost was turning a great rib over the coals--"what d'yethink, Paul?"

"He'll get along, I dare say, " replied I; "he only wants to get thosecheeks of his tanned. " To tell the truth, I was not a little pleasedto see the doctor's reputation as an invalid fading away so fast;especially as, on the strength of his being one, he had promised tohave such easy times of it, and very likely, too, at my expense. 

CHAPTER LIX. 

THE MURPHIES

DOZING in our canoe the next morning about daybreak, we were awakenedby Zeke's hailing us loudly from the beach. 

Upon paddling up, he told us that a canoe had arrived overnight, fromPapeetee, with an order from a ship lying there for a supply of hispotatoes; and as they must be on board the vessel by noon, he wantedus to assist in bringing them down to his sail-boat. 

My long comrade was one of those who, from always thrusting forth thewrong foot foremost when they rise, or committing some otherindiscretion of the limbs, are more or less crabbed or sullen beforebreakfast. It was in vain, therefore, that the Yankee deplored theurgency of the case which obliged him to call us up thus early:--thedoctor only looked the more glum, and said nothing in reply. 

At last, by way of getting up a little enthusiasm for the occasion, the Yankee exclaimed quite spiritedly, "What d'ye say, then, b'ys, shall we get at it?"

"Yes, in the devil's name!" replied the doctor, like a snappingturtle; and we moved on to the house. Notwithstanding his ungraciousanswer, he probably thought that, after the gastronomic performanceof the day previous, it would hardly do to hang back. At the house, we found Shorty ready with the hoes; and we at once repaired to thefarther side of the inclosure, where the potatoes had yet to be takenout of the ground. 

The rich, tawny soil seemed specially adapted to the crop; the greatyellow murphies rolling out of the hills like eggs from a nest. 

My comrade really surprised me by the zeal with which he appliedhimself to his hoe. For my own part, exhilarated by the cool breathof the morning, I worked away like a good fellow. As for Zeke and theCockney, they seemed mightily pleased at this evidence of ourwillingness to exert ourselves. 

It was not long ere all the potatoes were turned out; and then camethe worst of it: they were to be lugged down to the beach, adistance of at least a quarter of a mile. And there being no suchthing as a barrow, or cart, on the island, there was nothing for itbut spinal-marrows and broad shoulders. Well knowing that this part ofthe business would be anything but agreeable, Zeke did his best toput as encouraging a face upon it as possible; and giving us no timeto indulge in desponding thoughts, gleefully directed our attentionto a pile of rude baskets--made of stout stalks--which had beenprovided for the occasion. So, without more ado, we helped ourselvesfrom the heap: and soon we were all four staggering along under ourloads. 

The first trip down, we arrived at the beach together: Zeke'senthusiastic cries proving irresistible. A trip or two more, however, and my shoulders began to grate in their sockets; while the doctor'stall figure acquired an obvious stoop. Presently, we both threw downour baskets, protesting we could stand it no longer. But ouremployers, bent, as it Were, upon getting the work out of us by asilent appeal to our moral sense, toiled away without pretending tonotice us. It was as much as to say, "There, men, we've been boardingand lodging ye for the last three days; and yesterday ye did nothingearthly but eat; so stand by now, and look at us working, if yedare. " Thus driven to it, then, we resumed our employment. Yet, inspite of all we could do, we lagged behind Zeke and Shorty, who, breathing hard, and perspiring at every pore, toiled away withoutpause or cessation. I almost wickedly wished that they would loadthemselves down with one potato too many. 

Gasping as I was with my own hamper, I could not, for the life of me, help laughing at Long Ghost. There he went:--his long neck thrustforward, his arms twisted behind him to form a shelf for his basketto rest on; and his stilts of legs every once in a while giving wayunder him, as if his knee-joints slipped either way. 

"There! I carry no more!" he exclaimed all at once, flinging hispotatoes into the boat, where the Yankee was just then stowing themaway. 

"Oh, then, " said Zeke, quite briskly, "I guess you and Paul had bettertry the 'barrel-machine'--come along, I'll fix ye out in no time";and, so saying, he waded ashore, and hurried back to the house, bidding us follow. 

Wondering what upon earth the "barrel-machine" could be, and rathersuspicious of it, we limped after. On arriving at the house, we foundhim getting ready a sort of sedan-chair. It was nothing more than anold barrel suspended by a rope from the middle of a stout oar. Quitean ingenious contrivance of the Yankee's; and his proposedarrangement with regard to mine and the doctor's shoulders wasequally so. 

"There now!" said he, when everything was ready, "there's noback-breaking about this; you can stand right up under it, you see:jist try it once"; and he politely rested the blade of the oar on mycomrade's right shoulder, and the other end on mine, leaving thebarrel between us. 

"Jist the thing!" he added, standing off admiringly, while we remainedin this interesting attitude. 

There was no help for us; with broken hearts and backs we trudged backto the field; the doctor all the while saying masses. 

Upon starting with the loaded barrel, for a few paces we got alongpretty well, and were constrained to think the idea not a bad one. But we did not long think so. In less than five minutes we came to adead halt, the springing and buckling of the clumsy oar being almostunendurable. 

"Let's shift ends, " cried the doctor, who did not relish the blade ofthe stick, which was cutting into the blade of his shoulder. 

At last, by stages short and frequent, we managed to shamble down thebeach, where we again dumped our cargo, in something of a pet. 

"Why not make the natives help?" asked Long Ghost, rubbing hisshoulder. 

"Natives be dumned!" said the Yankee, "twenty on 'em ain't worth onewhite man. They never was meant to work any, them chaps; and theyknows it, too, for dumned little work any on 'em ever does. "

But, notwithstanding this abuse, Zeke was at last obliged to press afew of the bipeds into service. "Aramai!" (come here) he shouted toseveral, who, reclining on a bank, had hitherto been criticalobservers of our proceedings; and, among other things, had beenparticularly amused by the performance with the sedan-chair. 

After making these fellows load their baskets together, the Yankeefilled his own, and then drove them before him down to the beach. Probably he had seen the herds of panniered mules driven in this wayby mounted Indians along the great Callao to Lima. The boat at lastloaded, the Yankee, taking with him a couple of natives, at oncehoisted sail, and stood across the channel for Papeetee. 

The next morning at breakfast, old Tonoi ran in, and told us that thevoyagers were returning. We hurried down to the beach, and saw theboat gliding toward us, with a dozing islander at the helm, and Zekestanding up in the bows, jingling a small bag of silver, the proceedsof his cargo. 

CHAPTER LX. 

WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR

SEVERAL quiet days now passed away, during which we just workedsufficiently to sharpen our appetites; the planters lenientlyexempting us from any severe toil. 

Their desire to retain us became more and more evident; which was notto be wondered at; for, beside esteeming us from the beginning acouple of civil, good-natured fellows, who would soon become quiteat-home with them, they were not slow in perceiving that we were fardifferent from the common run of rovers; and that our society wasboth entertaining and instructive to a couple of solitary, illiteratemen like themselves. 

In a literary point of view, indeed, they soon regarded us withemotions of envy and wonder; and the doctor was considered nothingshort of a prodigy. The Cockney found out that he (the doctor) couldread a book upside down, without even so much as spelling the bigwords beforehand; and the Yankee, in the twinkling of an eye, received from him the sum total of several arithmetical items, statedaloud, with the view of testing the extent of his mathematical lore. 

Then, frequently, in discoursing upon men and things, my long comradeemployed such imposing phrases that, upon one occasion, they actuallyremained uncovered while he talked. 

In short, their favourable opinion of Long Ghost in particular rosehigher and higher every day; and they began to indulge in all mannerof dreams concerning the advantages to be derived from employing solearned a labourer. Among other projects revealed was that ofbuilding a small craft of some forty tons for the purpose of tradingamong the neighbouring islands. With a native crew, we would thentake turns cruising over the tranquil Pacific; touching here andthere, as caprice suggested, and collecting romantic articles ofcommerce;--beach-de-mer, the pearl-oyster, arrow-root, ambergris, sandal-wood, cocoa-nut oil, and edible birdnests. 

This South Sea yachting was delightful to think of; and straightway, the doctor announced his willingness to navigate the future schoonerclear of all shoals and reefs whatsoever. His impudence wasaudacious. He enlarged upon the science of navigation; treated us toa dissertation on Mercator's Sailing and the Azimuth compass; andwent into an inexplicable explanation of the Lord only knows whatplan of his for infallibly settling the longitude. 

Whenever my comrade thus gave the reins to his fine fancy, it was atreat to listen, and therefore I never interfered; but, with theplanters, sat in mute admiration before him. This apparentself-abasement on my part must have been considered as trulyindicative of our respective merits; for, to my no small concern, Iquickly perceived that, in the estimate formed of us, Long Ghostbegan to be rated far above myself. For aught I knew, indeed, hemight have privately thrown out a hint concerning the difference inour respective stations aboard the Julia; or else the planters musthave considered him some illustrious individual, for certaininscrutable reasons, going incog. With this idea of him, hisundisguised disinclination for work became venial; and entertainingsuch views of extending their business, they counted more upon hisultimate value to them as a man of science than as a mere ditcher. 

Nor did the humorous doctor forbear to foster an opinion every way soadvantageous to himself; at times, for the sake of the joke, assumingairs of superiority over myself, which, though laughable enough, weresometimes annoying. 

To tell the plain truth, things at last came to such a pass that Itold him, up and down, that I had no notion to put up with hispretensions; if he were going to play the gentleman, I was going tofollow suit; and then there would quickly be an explosion. 

At this he laughed heartily; and after some mirthful chat, we resolvedupon leaving the valley as soon as we could do so with a properregard to politeness. 

At supper, therefore, the same evening, the doctor hinted at ourintention. 

Though much surprised, and vexed, Zeke moved not a muscle. "Peter, "said he at last--very gravely--and after mature deliberation, "wouldyou like to do the cooking? It's easy work; and you needn't doanything else. Paul's heartier; he can work in the field when itsuits him; and before long, we'll have ye at something moreagreeable:--won't we, Shorty?"

Shorty assented. 

Doubtless, the proposed arrangement was a snug one; especially thesinecure for the doctor; but I by no means relished the functionsallotted to myself--they were too indefinite. Nothing final, however, was agreed upon;--our intention to leave was revealed, and that wasenough for the present. But, as we said nothing further about going, the Yankee must have concluded that we might yet be induced to remain. He redoubled his endeavours to make us contented. 

It was during this state of affairs that, one morning, beforebreakfast, we were set to weeding in a potato-patch; and the plantersbeing engaged at the house, we were left to ourselves. 

Now, though the pulling of weeds was considered by our employers aneasy occupation (for which reason they had assigned it to us), andalthough as a garden recreation it may be pleasant enough, for thosewho like it--still, long persisted in, the business becomesexcessively irksome. 

Nevertheless, we toiled away for some time, until the doctor, who, from his height, was obliged to stoop at a very acute angle, suddenlysprang upright; and with one hand propping his spinal column, exclaimed, "Oh, that one's joints were but provided with holes todrop a little oil through!"

Vain as the aspiration was for this proposed improvement upon ourspecies, I cordially responded thereto; for every vertebra in myspine was articulating in sympathy. 

Presently, the sun rose over the mountains, inducing that deadlymorning languor so fatal to early exertion in a warm climate. Wecould stand it no longer; but, shouldering our hoes, moved on to thehouse, resolved to impose no more upon the good-nature of theplanters by continuing one moment longer in an occupation soextremely uncongenial. 

We freely told them so. Zeke was exceedingly hurt, and said everythinghe could think of to alter our determination; but, finding allunavailing, he very hospitably urged us not to be in any hurry aboutleaving; for we might stay with him as guests until we had time todecide upon our future movements. 

We thanked him sincerely; but replied that, the following morning, wemust turn our backs upon the hills of Martair. 

CHAPTER LXI. 

PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY

DURING the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking over ourplans. 

The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inlandvillage, standing upon the banks of a considerable lake of the samename, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo you went to thisplace by a lonely pathway leading through the wildest scenery in theworld. Much, too, we had heard concerning the lake itself, whichabounded in such delicious fish that, in former times, angling partiesoccasionally came over to it from Papeetee. 

Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands, and intheir greatest perfection. The "Ve, " or Brazilian plum, here attainedthe size of an orange; and the gorgeous "Arheea, " or red apple ofTahiti, blushed with deeper dyes than in any of the seaward valleys. 

Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and unsophisticatedwomen in the entire Society group. In short, the village was soremote from the coast, and had been so much less affected by recentchanges than other places that, in most things, Tahitian life washere seen as formerly existing in the days of young Otoo, theboy-king, in Cook's time. 

After obtaining from the planters all the information which wasneeded, we decided upon penetrating to the village; and after atemporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and journey roundto Taloo, a harbour on the opposite side of the island. 

We at once put ourselves in travelling trim. Just previous to leavingTahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two suits (frock andtrousers, both much the worse for wear), I had quilted them togetherfor mutual preservation (after a fashion peculiar to sailors);engrafting a red frock upon a blue one, and producing thereby achoice variety in the way of clothing. This was the extent of mywardrobe. Nor was the doctor by any means better off. Hisimprovidence had at last driven him to don the nautical garb; but bythis time his frock--a light cotton one--had almost given out, and hehad nothing to replace it. Shorty very generously offered him onewhich was a little less ragged; but the alms were proudly refused;Long Ghost preferring to assume the ancient costume of Tahiti--the"Roora. "

This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom met with;but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he kept as an heirloom. It was a cloak, or mantle, of yellow tappa, precisely similar to the"poncho" worn by the South-American Spaniards. The head being slippedthrough a slit in the middle, the robe hangs about the person inample drapery. Tonoi obtained sufficient coarse brown tappa to make ashort mantle of this description; and in five minutes the doctor wasequipped. Zeke, eyeing his toga critically, reminded its proprietorthat there were many streams to ford, and precipices to scale, between Martair and Tamai; and if he travelled in petticoats, he hadbetter hold them up. 

Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the free andeasy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes; mine had been tossedoverboard the day we met the Trades; and except in one or two trampsashore, I had never worn any since. In Martair, they would have beendesirable: but none were to be had. For the expedition we meditated, however, they were indispensable. Zeke, being the owner of a pair ofhuge, dilapidated boots, hanging from a rafter like saddlebags, thedoctor succeeded in exchanging for them a case-knife, the lastvaluable article in his possession. For myself, I made sandals from abullock's hide, such as are worn by the Indians in California. Theyare made in a minute; the sole, rudely fashioned to the foot, beingconfined across the instep by three straps of leather. 

Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was a brave oldPanama hat, made of grass, almost as fine as threads of silk; and soelastic that, upon rolling it up, it sprang into perfect shape again. Set off by the jaunty slouch of this Spanish sombrero, Doctor LongGhost, in this and his Eoora, looked like a mendicant grandee. 

Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less distinguished. Theway I came to wear it was this. My hat having been knocked overboarda few days before reaching Papeetee, I was obliged to mount anabominable wad of parti-coloured worsted--what sailors call a Scotchcap. Everyone knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonianhead-dress crowned my temples so effectually that the confinedatmosphere engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I tried toventilate the cap: every gash made seemed to heal whole in no time. Then such a continual chafing as it kept up in a hot sun. 

Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend, prevailedupon me to bestow it upon him. I did so; hinting that a good boilingmight restore the original brilliancy of the colours. 

It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new Regatta frock ofthe doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and winding it round my headin folds, I allowed the sleeves to droop behind--thus forming a gooddefence against the sun, though in a shower it was best off. Thependent sleeves adding much to the effect, the doctor called me theBashaw with Two Tails. 

Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green saloons wecounted upon creating no small sensation. 

CHAPTER LXII. 

TAMAI

LONG before sunrise the next morning my sandals were laced on, and thedoctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots. 

Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the planters wishedus a pleasant journey; and, on parting, very generously presented uswith a pound or two of what sailors call "plug" tobacco; telling usto cut it up into small change; the Virginian weed being theprincipal circulating medium on the island. 

Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four leagues distant;so making allowances for a wild road, a few hours to rest at noon, and our determination to take the journey leisurely, we counted uponreaching the shores of the lake some time in the flush of theevening. 

For several hours we went on slowly through wood and ravine, and overhill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional herds of wildcattle, and often resting; until we found ourselves, about noon, inthe very heart of the island. 

It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which we at lastdescended with a bound. The place was gushing with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn trees, on whose mossy boles themoisture stood in beads. Strange to say, no traces of the bullocksever having been here were revealed. Nor was there a sound to beheard, nor a bird to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring theleaves. The utter solitude and silence were oppressive; and afterpeering about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark, motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended a steepmountain opposite. 

Midway up, we rested where the earth had gathered about the roots ofthree palms, and thus formed a pleasant lounge, from which we lookeddown upon the hollow, now one dark green tuft of woodland at ourfeet. Here we brought forth a small calabash of "poee" a partingpresent from Tonoi. After eating heartily, we obtained fire by twosticks, and throwing ourselves back, puffed forth our fatigue inwreaths of smoke. At last we fell asleep; nor did we waken till thesun had sunk so low that its rays darted in upon us under thefoliage. 

Starting up, we then continued our journey; and as we gained themountain top--there, to our surprise, lay the lake and village ofTamai. We had thought it a good league off. Where we stood, theyellow sunset was still lingering; but over the valley below longshadows were stealing--the rippling green lake reflecting the housesand trees just as they stood along its banks. Several small canoes, moored here and there to posts in the water, were dancing upon thewaves; and one solitary fisherman was paddling over to a grassypoint. In front of the houses, groups of natives were seen; somethrown at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaningagainst the bamboos. 

With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers soonhurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near, they gatheredround, all curiosity to know what brought the "karhowrees" into theirquiet country. The doctor contriving to make them understand thepurely social object of our visit, they gave us a true Tahitianwelcome; pointing into their dwellings, and saying they were ours aslong as we chose to remain. 

We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men and women;so much more healthful than the inhabitants of the bays. As for theyoung girls, they were more retiring and modest, more tidy in theirdress, and far fresher and more beautiful than the damsels of thecoast. A thousand pities, thought I, that they should bury theircharms in this nook of a valley. 

That night we abode in the house of Rartoo, a hospitable old chief. Itwas right on the shore of the lake; and at supper we looked outthrough a rustling screen of foliage upon the surface of the starlitwater. 

The next day we rambled about, and found a happy little community, comparatively free from many deplorable evils to which the rest oftheir countrymen are subject. Their time, too, was more occupied. Tomy surprise, the manufacture of tappa was going on in severalbuildings. European calicoes were seldom seen, and not many articlesof foreign origin of any description. 

The people of Tamai were nominally Christians; but being so remotefrom ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat lightly uponthem. We had been told, even, that many heathenish games and dancesstill secretly lingered in their valley. 

Now the prospect of seeing an old-fashioned "hevar, " or Tahitian reel, was one of the inducements which brought us here; and so, findingRartoo rather liberal in his religious ideas, we disclosed ourdesire. At first he demurred; and shrugging his shoulders like aFrenchman, declared it could not be brought about--was a dangerousmatter to attempt, and might bring all concerned into trouble. But weovercame all this, convinced him that the thing could be done, and a"hevar, " a genuine pagan fandango, was arranged for that very night. 

CHAPTER LXIII. 

A DANCE IN THE VALLEY

THERE were some ill-natured people--tell-tales--it seemed, in Tamai;and hence there was a deal of mystery about getting up the dance. 

An hour or two before midnight, Rartoo entered the house, and, throwing robes of tappa over us, bade us follow at a distance behindhim; and, until out of the village, hood our faces. Keenly alive tothe adventure, we obeyed. At last, after taking a wide circuit, wecame out upon the farthest shore of the lake. It was a wide, dewy, space; lighted up by a full moon, and carpeted with a minute speciesof fern growing closely together. It swept right down to the water, showing the village opposite, glistening among the groves. 

Near the trees, on one side of the clear space, was a ruinous pile ofstones many rods in extent; upon which had formerly stood a temple ofOro. At present, there was nothing but a rude hut, planted on thelowermost terrace. It seemed to have been used as a "tappa herree, "or house for making the native cloth. 

Here we saw lights gleaming from between the bamboos, and castinglong, rod-like shadows upon the ground without. Voices also wereheard. We went up, and had a peep at the dancers who were gettingready for the ballet. They were some twenty in number;-waited upon byhideous old crones, who might have been duennas. Long Ghost proposedto send the latter packing; but Rartoo said it would never do, and sothey were permitted to remain. 

We tried to effect an entrance at the door, which was fastened; but, after a noisy discussion with one of the old witches within, ourguide became fidgety, and, at last, told us to desist, or we wouldspoil all. He then led us off to a distance to await the performance;as the girls, he said, did not wish to be recognized. He, furthermore, made us promise to remain where we were until all wasover, and the dancers had retired. 

We waited impatiently; and, at last, they came forth. They werearrayed in short tunics of white tappa; with garlands of flowers ontheir heads. Following them were the duennas, who remained clusteringabout the house, while the girls advanced a few paces; and, in aninstant, two of them, taller than their companions, were standing, side by side, in the middle of a ring formed by the clasped hands ofthe rest. This movement was made in perfect silence. 

Presently the two girls join hands overhead; and, crying out, "Ahloo!ahloo!" wave them to and fro. Upon which the ring begins to circleslowly; the dancers moving sideways, with their arms a littledrooping. Soon they quicken their pace; and, at last, fly round andround: bosoms heaving, hair streaming, flowers dropping, and everysparkling eye circling in what seemed a line of light. 

Meanwhile, the pair within are passing and repassing each otherincessantly. Inclining sideways, so that their long hair falls farover, they glide this way and that; one foot continually in the air, and their fingers thrown forth, and twirling in the moonbeams. 

"Ahloo! ahloo!" again cry the dance queens; and coming together in themiddle of the ring, they once more lift up the arch, and standmotionless. 

"Ahloo! ahloo!" Every link of the circle is broken; and the girls, deeply breathing, stand perfectly still. They pant hard and fast amoment or two; and then, just as the deep flush is dying away fromtheir faces, slowly recede, all round; thus enlarging the ring. 

Again the two leaders wave their hands, when the rest pause; and now, far apart, stand in the still moonlight like a circle of fairies. Presently, raising a strange chant, they softly sway themselves, gradually quickening the movement, until, at length, for a fewpassionate moments, with throbbing bosoms and glowing cheeks, theyabandon themselves to all the spirit of the dance, apparently lost toeverything around. But soon subsiding again into the same languidmeasure as before, they become motionless; and then, reeling forwardon all sides, their eyes swimming in their heads, join in one wildchorus, and sink into each other's arms. 

Such is the Lory-Lory, I think they call it; the dance of thebacksliding girls of Tamai. 

While it was going on, we had as much as we could do to keep thedoctor from rushing forward and seizing a partner. 

They would give us no more "hevars" that night; and Rartoo fairlydragged us away to a canoe, hauled up on the lake shore; when wereluctantly embarked, and paddling over to the village, arrived therein time for a good nap before sunrise. 

The next day, the doctor went about trying to hunt up the overnightdancers. He thought to detect them by their late rising; but neverwas man more mistaken; for, on first sallying out, the whole villagewas asleep, waking up in concert about an hour after. But, in thecourse of the day, he came across several whom he at once chargedwith taking part in the "hevar. " There were some prim-looking fellowsstanding by (visiting elders from Afrehitoo, perhaps), and the girlslooked embarrassed; but parried the charge most skilfully. 

Though soft as doves, in general, the ladies of Tamai are, nevertheless, flavoured with a slight tincture of what we queerlyenough call the "devil"; and they showed it on the present occasion. For when the doctor pressed one rather hard, she all at once turnedround upon him, and, giving him a box on the ear, told him to "hanreeperrar!" (be off with himself. )

CHAPTER LXIV. 

MYSTERIOUS

THERE was a little old man of a most hideous aspect living in Tamai, who, in a coarse mantle of tappa, went about the village, dancing, and singing, and making faces. He followed us about wherever we went;and, when unobserved by others, plucked at our garments, makingfrightful signs for us to go along with him somewhere, and seesomething. 

It was in vain that we tried to get rid of him. Kicks and cuffs, even, were at last resorted to; but, though he howled like one possessed, he would not go away, but still haunted us. At last, we conjured thenatives to rid us of him; but they only laughed; so we were forced toendure the dispensation as well as we could. 

On the fourth night of our visit, returning home late from paying afew calls through the village, we turned a dark corner of trees, andcame full upon our goblin friend: as usual, chattering, and motioningwith his hands. The doctor, venting a curse, hurried forward; but, from some impulse or other, I stood my ground, resolved to find outwhat this unaccountable object wanted of us. Seeing me pause, he creptclose up to me, peered into my face, and then retreated, beckoning meto follow; which I did. 

In a few moments the village was behind us; and with my guide inadvance, I found myself in the shadow of the heights overlooking thefarther side of the valley. Here my guide paused until I came up withhim; when, side by side, and without speaking, we ascended the hill. 

Presently, we came to a wretched hut, barely distinguishable in theshade cast by the neighbouring trees. Pushing aside a rude slidingdoor, held together with thongs, the goblin signed me to enter. Within, it looked dark as pitch; so I gave him to understand that hemust strike a light, and go in before me. Without replying, hedisappeared in the darkness; and, after groping about, I heard twosticks rubbing together, and directly saw a spark. A native taper wasthen lighted, and I stooped, and entered. 

It was a mere kennel. Foul old mats, and broken cocoa-nut shells, andcalabashes were strewn about the floor of earth; and overhead Icaught glimpses of the stars through chinks in the roof. Here andthere the thatch had fallen through, and hung down in wisps. 

I now told him to set about what he was going to do, or producewhatever he had to show without delay. Looking round fearfully, as ifdreading a surprise, he commenced turning over and over the rubbishin one corner. At last, he clutched a calabash, stained black, andwith the neck broken off; on one side of it was a large hole. Something seemed to be stuffed away in the vessel; and after a deal ofpoking at the aperture, a musty old pair of sailor trousers was drawnforth; and, holding them up eagerly, he inquired how many pieces oftobacco I would give for them. 

Without replying, I hurried away; the old man chasing me, and shoutingas I ran, until I gained the village. Here I dodged him, and made myway home, resolved never to disclose so inglorious an adventure. 

To no purpose, the next morning, my comrade besought me to enlightenhim; I preserved a mysterious silence. 

The occurrence served me a good turn, however, so long as we abode inTamai; for the old clothesman never afterwards troubled me; butforever haunted the doctor, who, in vain, supplicated Heaven to bedelivered from him. 

CHAPTER LXV. 

THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT

"I SAY, doctor, " cried I, a few days after my adventure with thegoblin, as, in the absence of our host, we were one morning loungingupon the matting in his dwelling, smoking our reed pipes, "Tamai's athriving place; why not settle down?"

"Faith!" said he, "not a bad idea, Paul. But do you fancy they'll letus stay, though?"

"Why, certainly; they would be overjoyed to have a couple ofKarhowrees for townsmen. "

"Gad! you're right, my pleasant fellow. Ha! ha! I'll put up abanana-leaf as a physician from London--deliver lectures onPolynesian antiquities--teach English in five lessons, of one houreach--establish power-looms for the manufacture of tappa--lay out apublic park in the middle of the village, and found a festival inhonour of Captain Cook!"

"But, surely, not without stopping to take breath, " observed I. 

The doctor's projects, to be sure, were of a rather visionary cast;but we seriously thought, nevertheless, of prolonging our stay in thevalley for an indefinite period; and, with this understanding, wewere turning over various plans for spending our time pleasantly, when several women came running into the house, and hurriedlybesought us to heree! heree! (make our escape), crying out somethingabout the Mickonarees. 

Thinking that we were about to be taken up under the act for thesuppression of vagrancy, we flew out of the house, sprang into acanoe before the door, and paddled with might and main over to theopposite side of the lake. 

Approaching Rartoo's dwelling was a great crowd, among which weperceived several natives, who, from their partly European dress, wewere certain did not reside in Tamai. 

Plunging into the groves, we thanked our stars that we had thusnarrowly escaped being apprehended as runaway seamen, and marched offto the beach. This, at least, was what we thought we had escaped. 

Having fled the village, we could not think of prowling about itsvicinity, and then returning; in doing so we might be risking ourliberty again. We therefore determined upon journeying back toMartair; and setting our faces thitherward, we reached the planters'house about nightfall. They gave us a cordial reception, and a heartysupper; and we sat up talking until a late hour. 

We now prepared to go round to Taloo, a place from which we were notfar off when at Tamai; but wishing to see as much of the island as wecould, we preferred returning to Martair, and then going round by wayof the beach. 

Taloo, the only frequented harbour of Imeeo, lies on the western sideof the island, almost directly over against Martair. Upon one shoreof the bay stands the village of Partoowye, a missionary station. Inits vicinity is an extensive sugar plantation--the best in the SouthSeas, perhaps--worked by a person from Sydney. 

The patrimonial property of the husband of Pomaree, and every way adelightful retreat, Partoowye was one of the occasional residences ofthe court. But at the time I write of it was permanently fixed there, the queen having fled thither from Tahiti. 

Partoowye, they told us, was by no means the place Papeetee was. Shipsseldom touched, and very few foreigners were living ashore. Asolitary whaler, however, was reported to be lying in the harbour, wooding and watering, and to be in want of men. 

All things considered, I could not help looking upon Taloo as offering"a splendid opening" for us adventurers. To say nothing of thefacilities presented for going to sea in the whaler, or hiringourselves out as day labourers in the sugar plantation, there werehopes to be entertained of being promoted to some office of hightrust and emolument about the person of her majesty, the queen. 

Nor was this expectation altogether Quixotic. In the train of manyPolynesian princes roving whites are frequently found: gentlemanpensioners of state, basking in the tropical sunshine of the court, and leading the pleasantest lives in the world. Upon islands littlevisited by foreigners the first seaman that settles down is generallydomesticated in the family of the head chief or king; where hefrequently discharges the functions of various offices, elsewherefilled by as many different individuals. As historiographer, forinstance, he gives the natives some account of distant countries; ascommissioner of the arts and sciences, he instructs them in the use ofthe jack-knife, and the best way of shaping bits of iron hoop intospear-heads; and as interpreter to his majesty, he facilitatesintercourse with strangers; besides instructing the people generallyin the uses of the most common English phrases, civil and profane;but oftener the latter. 

These men generally marry well; often--like Hardy of Hannamanoo--intothe Wood royal. 

Sometimes they officiate as personal attendant, or First Lord inWaiting, to the king. At Amboi, one of the Tonga Islands, a vagabondWelshman bends his knee as cupbearer to his cannibal majesty. Hemixes his morning cup of "arva, " and, with profound genuflections, presents it in a cocoa-nut bowl, richly carved. Upon another islandof the same group, where it is customary to bestow no small pains indressing the hair--frizzing it out by a curious process into anenormous Pope's head--an old man-of-war's-man fills the post ofbarber to the king. And as his majesty is not very neat, his mop isexceedingly populous; so that, when Jack is not engaged in dressingthe head intrusted to his charge, he busies himself in gentlytitillating it--a sort of skewer being actually worn about in thepatient's hair for that special purpose. 

Even upon the Sandwich Islands a low rabble of foreigners is keptabout the person of Tammahammaha for the purpose of ministering tohis ease or enjoyment. 

Billy Loon, a jolly little negro, tricked out in a soiled blue jacket, studded all over with rusty bell buttons, and garnished with shabbygold lace, is the royal drummer and pounder of the tambourine. Joe, awooden-legged Portuguese who lost his leg by a whale, is violinist;and Mordecai, as he is called, a villainous-looking scamp, goingabout with his cups and balls in a side pocket, diverts the court withhis jugglery. These idle rascals receive no fixed salary, beingaltogether dependent upon the casual bounty of their master. Now andthen they run up a score at the Dance Houses in Honolulu, where theillustrious Tammahammaha III afterwards calls and settles the bill. 

A few years since an auctioneer to his majesty came near being addedto the retinue of state. It seems that he was the first man who hadpractised his vocation in the Sandwich Islands; and delighted withthe sport of bidding upon his wares, the king was one of his bestcustomers. At last he besought the man to leave all and follow him, and he should be handsomely provided for at court. But the auctioneerrefused; and so the ivory hammer lost the chance of being bornebefore him on a velvet cushion when the next king went to be crowned. 

But it was not as strolling players, nor as footmen out of employ, that the doctor and myself looked forward to our approachingintroduction to the court of the Queen of Tahiti. On the contrary, asbefore hinted, we expected to swell the appropriations of bread-fruitand cocoa-nuts on the Civil List by filling some honourable office inher gift. 

We were told that, to resist the usurpation of the French, the queenwas rallying about her person all the foreigners she could. Herpartiality for the English and Americans was well known; and this wasan additional ground for our anticipating a favourable reception. Zeke had informed us, moreover, that by the queen's counsellors atPartoowye, a war of aggression against the invaders of Papeetee hadbeen seriously thought of. Should this prove true, a surgeon'scommission for the doctor, and a lieutenancy for myself, werecertainly counted upon in our sanguine expectations. 

Such, then, were our views, and such our hopes in projecting a trip toTaloo. But in our most lofty aspirations we by no means lost sight ofany minor matters which might help us to promotion. The doctor hadinformed me that he excelled in playing the fiddle. I now suggestedthat, as soon as we arrived at Partoowye, we should endeavour toborrow a violin for him; or if this could not be done, that he shouldmanufacture some kind of a substitute, and, thus equipped, apply foran audience of the queen. Her well-known passion for music would atonce secure his admittance; and so, under the most favourableauspices, bring about our introduction to her notice. 

"And who knows, " said my waggish comrade, throwing his head back andperforming an imaginary air by briskly drawing one arm across theother, "who knows that I may not fiddle myself into her majesty'sgood graces so as to became a sort of Rizzio to the Tahitianprincess. "

CHAPTER LXVI. 

HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO

THE inglorious circumstances of our somewhat premature departure fromTamai filled the sagacious doctor, and myself, with sundry misgivingsfor the future. 

Under Zeke's protection, we were secure from all impertinentinterference in our concerns on the part of the natives. But asfriendless wanderers over the island, we ran the risk of beingapprehended as runaways, and, as such, sent back to Tahiti. Thetruth is that the rewards constantly offered for the apprehension ofdeserters from ships induce some of the natives to eye all strangerssuspiciously. 

A passport was therefore desirable; but such a thing had never beenheard of in Imeeo. At last, Long Ghost suggested that, as the Yankeewas well known and much respected all over the island, we shouldendeavour to obtain from him some sort of paper, not only certifyingto our having been in his employ, but also to our not beinghighwaymen, kidnappers, nor yet runaway seamen. Even written inEnglish, a paper like this would answer every purpose; for theunlettered natives, standing in great awe of the document, would notdare to molest us until acquainted with its purport. Then, if itcame to the worst, we might repair to the nearest missionary, and havethe passport explained. 

Upon informing Zeke of these matters, he seemed highly flattered withthe opinion we entertained of his reputation abroad; and he agreed tooblige us. The doctor at once offered to furnish him with a draughtof the paper; but he refused, saying he would write it himself. Witha rooster's quill, therefore, a bit of soiled paper, and a stoutheart, he set to work. Evidently he was not accustomed to composition;for his literary throes were so violent that the doctor suggestedthat some sort of a Caesarian operation might be necessary. 

The precious paper was at last finished; and a great curiosity it was. We were much diverted with his reasons for not dating it. 

"In this here dummed eliminate, " he observed, "a feller can't keep therun of the months, nohow; cause there's no seasons; no summer andwinter, to go by. One's etarnally thinkin' it's always July, it's sopesky hot. "

A passport provided, we cast about for some means of getting toTaloo. 

The island of Imeeo is very nearly surrounded by a regular breakwaterof coral extending within a mile or less of the shore. The smoothcanal within furnishes the best means of communication with thedifferent settlements; all of which, with the exception of Tamai, areright upon the water. And so indolent are the Imeeose that they thinknothing of going twenty or thirty miles round the island in a canoe inorder to reach a place not a quarter of that distance by land. But ashinted before, the fear of the bullocks has something to do withthis. 

The idea of journeying in a canoe struck our fancy quite pleasantly;and we at once set about chartering one, if possible. But none couldwe obtain. For not only did we have nothing to pay for hiring one, but we could not expect to have it loaned; inasmuch as thegood-natured owner would, in all probability, have to walk along thebeach as we paddled in order to bring back his property when we had nofurther use for it. 

At last, it was decided to commence our journey on foot; trusting thatwe would soon fall in with a canoe going our way, in which we mighttake passage. 

The planters said we would find no beaten path: all we had to do wasto follow the beach; and however inviting it might look inland, on noaccount must we stray from it. In short, the longest way round wasthe nearest way to Taloo. At intervals, there were little hamletsalong the shore, besides lonely fishermen's huts here and there, where we could get plenty to eat without pay; so there was nonecessity to lay in any store. 

Intending to be off before sunrise the next morning, so as to have thebenefit of the coolest part of the day, we bade our kind hostsfarewell overnight; and then, repairing to the beach, we launched ourfloating pallet, and slept away merrily till dawn. 

CHAPTER LXVII. 

THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH

IT was on the fourth day of the first month of the Hegira, or flightfrom Tamai (we now reckoned our time thus), that, rising bright andearly, we were up and away out of the valley of Hartair before thefishermen even were stirring. 

It was the earliest dawn. The morning only showed itself along thelower edge of a bank of purple clouds pierced by the misty peaks ofTahiti. The tropical day seemed too languid to rise. Sometimes, starting fitfully, it decked the clouds with faint edgings of pinkand gray, which, fading away, left all dim again. Anon, it threw outthin, pale rays, growing lighter and lighter, until at last, thegolden morning sprang out of the East with a bound--darting itsbright beams hither and thither, higher and higher, and sending them, broadcast, over the face of the heavens. 

All balmy from the groves of Tahiti came an indolent air, cooled byits transit over the waters; and grateful underfoot was the damp andslightly yielding beach, from which the waves seemed just retired. 

The doctor was in famous spirits; removing his Koora, he wentsplashing into the sea; and, after swimming a few yards, wadedashore, hopping, skipping, and jumping along the beach; but verycareful to cut all his capers in the direction of our journey. 

Say what they will of the glowing independence one feels in thesaddle, give me the first morning flush of your cheery pedestrian!

Thus exhilarated, we went on, as light-hearted and care-free as wecould wish. 

And here I cannot refrain from lauding the very superior inducementswhich most intertropical countries afford, not only to mere roverslike ourselves, but to penniless people generally. In these genialregions one's wants are naturally diminished; and those which remainare easily gratified; fuel, house-shelter, and, if you please, clothing, may be entirely dispensed with. 

How different our hard northern latitudes! Alas! the lot of a "poordevil, " twenty degrees north of the tropic of Cancer, is indeedpitiable. 

At last, the beach contracted to hardly a yard's width, and the densethicket almost dipped into the sea. In place of the smooth sand, too, we had sharp fragments of broken coral, which made travellingexceedingly unpleasant. "Lord! my foot!" roared the doctor, fetchingit up for inspection, with a galvanic fling of the limb. A sharpsplinter had thrust itself into the flesh through a hole in his boot. My sandals were worse yet; their soles taking a sort of fossilimpression of everything trod upon. 

Turning round a bold sweep of the beach, we came upon a piece of fine, open ground, with a fisherman's dwelling in the distance, crowning aknoll which rolled off into the water. 

The hut proved to be a low, rude erection, very recently thrown up;for the bamboos were still green as grass, and the thatching freshand fragrant as meadow hay. It was open upon three sides; so that, upon drawing near, the domestic arrangements within were in plainsight. No one was stirring; and nothing was to be seen but a clumsyold chest of native workmanship, a few calabashes, and bundles oftappa hanging against a post; and a heap of something, we knew notwhat, in a dark corner. Upon close inspection, the doctor discoveredit to be a loving old couple, locked in each other's arms, and rolledtogether in a tappa mantle. 

"Halloa! Darby!" he cried, shaking the one with a beard. But Darbyheeded him not; though Joan, a wrinkled old body, started up inaffright, and yelled aloud. Neither of us attempting to gag her, shepresently became quiet; and, after staring hard and asking someunintelligible questions, she proceeded to rouse her still slumberingmate. 

What ailed him we could not tell; but there was no waking him. Equallyin vain were all his dear spouse's cuffs, pinches, and otherendearments; he lay like a log, face up, snoring away like a cavalrytrumpeter. 

"Here, my good woman, " said Long Ghost, "just let me try"; and, takingthe patient right by his nose, he so lifted him bodily into a sittingposition, and held him there until his eyes opened. When this eventcame to pass, Darby looked round like one stupefied; and then, springing to his feet, backed away into a corner, from which place webecame the objects of his earnest and respectful attention. 

"Permit me, my dear Darby, to introduce to you my esteemed friend andcomrade, Paul, " said the doctor, gallanting me up with all thegrimace and flourish imaginable. Upon this, Darby began to recoverhis faculties, and surprised us not a little by talking a few wordsof English. So far as could be understood, they were expressive ofhis having been aware that there were two "karhowrees" in theneighbourhood; that he was glad to see us, and would have somethingfor us to eat in no time. 

How he came by his English was explained to us before we left. Sometime previous, he had been a denizen of Papeetee, where the nativelanguage is broidered over with the most classic sailor phrases. Heseemed to be quite proud of his residence there; and alluded to it inthe same significant way in which a provincial informs you that inhis time he has resided in the capital. The old fellow was disposed tobe garrulous; but being sharp-set, we told him to get breakfast;after which we would hear his anecdotes. While employed among thecalabashes, the strange, antiquated fondness between these oldsemi-savages was really amusing. I made no doubt that they weresaying to each other, "yes, my love"--"no, my life, " just in the sameway that some young couples do, at home. 

They gave us a hearty meal; and while we were discussing its merits, they assured us, over and over again, that they expected nothing inreturn for their attentions; more: we were at liberty to stay as longas we pleased; and as long as we did stay, their house and everythingthey had was no longer theirs, but ours; still more: they themselveswere our slaves--the old lady, to a degree that was altogethersuperfluous. This, now, is Tahitian hospitality! Self-immolation uponone's own hearthstone for the benefit of the guest. 

The Polynesians carry their hospitality to an amazing extent. Let anative of Waiurar, the westernmost part of Tahiti, make hisappearance as a traveller at Partoowye, the most easterly village ofImeeo; though a perfect stranger, the inhabitants on all sides accosthim at their doorways, inviting him to enter, and make himself athome. But the traveller passes on, examining every house attentively;until, at last, he pauses before one which suits him, and thenexclaiming, "ah, eda maitai" (this one will do, I think), he stepsin, and makes himself perfectly at ease; flinging himself upon themats, and very probably calling for a nice young cocoa-nut, and apiece of toasted breadfruit, sliced thin, and done brown. 

Curious to relate, however, should a stranger carrying it thus bravelybe afterwards discovered to be without a house of his own, why, hemay thenceforth go a-begging for his lodgings. The "karhowrees, " orwhite men, are exceptions to this rule. Thus it is precisely as incivilized countries, where those who have houses and lands areincessantly bored to death with invitations to come and live in otherpeople's houses; while many a poor gentleman who inks the seams ofhis coat, and to whom the like invitation would be really acceptable, may go and sue for it. But to the credit of the ancient Tahitians, itshould here be observed that this blemish upon their hospitality isonly of recent origin, and was wholly unknown in old times. So toldme, Captain Bob. 

In Polynesia it is esteemed "a great hit" if a man succeed in marryinginto a family to which the best part of the community is related(Heaven knows it is otherwise with us). The reason is that, when hegoes a-travelling, the greater number of houses are the morecompletely at his service. 

Receiving a paternal benediction from old Darby and Joan, we continuedour journey; resolved to stop at the very next place of attractionwhich offered. 

Nor did we long stroll for it. A fine walk along a beach of shells, and we came to a spot where, trees here and there, the land was allmeadow, sloping away to the water, which stirred a sedgy growth ofreeds bordering its margin. Close by was a little cove, walled inwith coral, where a fleet of canoes was dancing up and down. A fewpaces distant, on a natural terrace overlooking the sea, were severalnative dwellings, newly thatched, and peeping into view out of thefoliage like summer-houses. 

As we drew near, forth came a burst of voices, and, presently, threegay girls, overflowing with life, health, and youth, and full ofspirits and mischief. One was arrayed in a flaunting robe of calico;and her long black hair was braided behind in two immense tresses, joined together at the ends, and wreathed with the green tendrils ofa vine. From her self-possessed and forward air, I fancied she mightbe some young lady from Papeetee on a visit to her country relations. Her companions wore mere slips of cotton cloth; their hair wasdishevelled; and though very pretty, they betrayed the reserve andembarrassment characteristic of the provinces. 

The little gipsy first mentioned ran up to me with great cordiality;and, giving the Tahitian salutation, opened upon me such a fire ofquestions that there was no understanding, much less answering them. But our hearty welcome to Loohooloo, as she called the hamlet, wasmade plain enough. Meanwhile, Doctor Long Ghost gallantly presentedan arm to each of the other young ladies; which, at first, they knewnot what to make of; but at last, taking it for some kind of joke, accepted the civility. 

The names of these three damsels were at once made known bythemselves: and being so exceedingly romantic, I cannot forbearparticularizing them. Upon my comrade's arms, then, were hangingNight and Morning, in the persons of Farnowar, or the Day-Born, andEarnoopoo, or the Night-Born. She with the tresses was veryappropriately styled Marhar-Rarrar, the Wakeful, or Bright-Eyed. 

By this time, the houses were emptied of the rest of their inmates--afew old men and women, and several strapping young fellows rubbingtheir eyes and yawning. All crowded round, putting questions as towhence we came. Upon being informed of our acquaintance with Zeke, they were delighted; and one of them recognized the boots worn by thedoctor. "Keekee (Zeke) maitai, " they cried, "nuee nuee hanna hannaportarto"--(makes plenty of potatoes). 

There was now a little friendly altercation as to who should have thehonour of entertaining the strangers. At last, a tall old gentleman, by name Marharvai, with a bald head and white beard, took us each bythe hand, and led us into his dwelling. Once inside, Marharvai, pointing about with his staff, was so obsequious in assuring us thathis house was ours that Long Ghost suggested he might as well handover the deed. 

It was drawing near noon; so after a light lunch of roastedbreadfruit, a few whiffs of a pipe, and some lively chatting, ourhost admonished the company to lie down, and take the everlastingsiesta. We complied; and had a social nap all round. 

CHAPTER LXVIII. 

A DINNER-PARTY IN IMEEO

IT WAS just in the middle of the merry, mellow afternoon that theyushered us to dinner, underneath a green shelter of palm boughs; openall round, and so low at the eaves that we stooped to enter. 

Within, the ground was strewn over with aromatic ferns--called"nahee"--freshly gathered; which, stirred underfoot, diffused thesweetest odour. On one side was a row of yellow mats, inwrought withfibres of bark stained a bright red. Here, seated after the fashionof the Turk, we looked out, over a verdant bank, upon the mild, blue, endless Pacific. So far round had we skirted the island that the viewof Tahiti was now intercepted. 

Upon the ferns before us were laid several layers of broad, thick"pooroo" leaves; lapping over, one upon the other. And upon thesewere placed, side by side, newly-plucked banana leaves, at least twoyards in length, and very wide; the stalks were withdrawn so as tomake them lie flat. This green cloth was set out and garnished in themanner following:--

First, a number of "pooroo" leaves, by way of plates, were rangedalong on one side; and by each was a rustic nut-bowl, half-filledwith sea-water, and a Tahitian roll, or small bread-fruit, roastedbrown. An immense flat calabash, placed in the centre, was heaped upwith numberless small packages of moist, steaming leaves: in each wasa small fish, baked in the earth, and done to a turn. This pyramid ofa dish was flanked on either side by an ornamental calabash. One wasbrimming with the golden-hued "poee, " or pudding, made from the redplantain of the mountains: the other was stacked up with cakes of theIndian turnip, previously macerated in a mortar, kneaded with themilk of the cocoa-nut, and then baked. In the spaces between thethree dishes were piled young cocoa-nuts, stripped of their husks. Their eyes had been opened and enlarged; so that each was aready-charged goblet. 

There was a sort of side-cloth in one corner, upon which, in bright, buff jackets, lay the fattest of bananas; "avees, " red-ripe: guavaswith the shadows of their crimson pulp flushing through a transparentskin, and almost coming and going there like blushes; oranges, tinged, here and there, berry-brown; and great, jolly melons, whichrolled about in very portliness. Such a heap! All ruddy, ripe, andround--bursting with the good cheer of the tropical soil from whichthey sprang!

"A land of orchards!" cried the doctor, in a rapture; and he snatcheda morsel from a sort of fruit of which gentlemen of the sanguinetemperament are remarkably fond; namely, the ripe cherry lips of MisaDay-Born, who stood looking on. 

Marharvai allotted seats to his guests; and the meal began. Thinkingthat his hospitality needed some acknowledgment, I rose, and pledgedhim in the vegetable wine of the cocoa-nut; merely repeating theordinary salutation, "Yar onor boyoee. " Sensible that somecompliment, after the fashion of white men, was paid him, with asmile, and a courteous flourish of the hand, he bade me be seated. Nopeople, however refined, are more easy and graceful in their mannersthan the Imeeose. 

The doctor, sitting next our host, now came under his specialprotection. Laying before his guest one of the packages of fish, Marharvai opened it; and commended its contents to his particularregards. But my comrade was one of those who, on convivial occasions, can always take care of themselves. He ate an indefinite number of"Pee-hee Lee Lees" (small fish), his own and next neighbour'sbread-fruit; and helped himself, to right and left, with all the easeof an accomplished diner-out. 

"Paul, " said he, at last, "you don't seem to be getting along; whydon't you try the pepper sauce?" and, by way of example, he steeped amorsel of food into his nutful of sea-water. On following suit, Ifound it quite piquant, though rather bitter; but, on the whole, acapital substitute for salt. The Imeeose invariably use sea-water inthis way, deeming it quite a treat; and considering that theircountry is surrounded by an ocean of catsup, the luxury cannot bedeemed an expensive one. 

The fish were delicious; the manner of cooking them in the groundpreserving all the juices, and rendering them exceedingly sweet andtender. The plantain pudding was almost cloying; the cakes of Indianturnip, quite palatable; and the roasted bread-fruit, crisp as toast. 

During the meal, a native lad walked round and round the party, carrying a long staff of bamboo. This he occasionally tapped upon thecloth, before each guest; when a white clotted substance droppedforth, with a savour not unlike that of a curd. This proved to be"Lownee, " an excellent relish, prepared from the grated meat of ripecocoa-nuts, moistened with cocoa-nut milk and salt water, and keptperfectly tight until a little past the saccharine stage offermentation. 

Throughout the repast there was much lively chatting among theislanders, in which their conversational powers quite exceeded ours. The young ladies, too, showed themselves very expert in the use oftheir tongues, and contributed much to the gaiety which prevailed. 

Nor did these lively nymphs suffer the meal to languish; for upon thedoctor's throwing himself back, with an air of much satisfaction, they sprang to their feet, and pelted him with oranges and guavas. This, at last, put an end to the entertainment. 

By a hundred whimsical oddities, my long friend became a greatfavourite with these people; and they bestowed upon him a long, comical title, expressive of his lank figure and Koora combined. Thelatter, by the bye, never failed to excite the remark of everybody weencountered. 

The giving of nicknames is quite a passion with the people of Tahitiand Imeeo. No one with any peculiarity, whether of person or temper, is exempt; not even strangers. 

A pompous captain of a man-of-war, visiting Tahiti for the secondtime, discovered that, among the natives, he went by the dignifiedtitle of "Atee Poee"--literally, Poee Head, or Pudding Head. Nor isthe highest rank among themselves any protection. The first husbandof the present queen was commonly known in the court circles as "PotBelly. " He carried the greater part of his person before him, to besure; and so did the gentlemanly George IV. --but what a title for aking consort!

Even "Pomaree" itself, the royal patronymic, was, originally, a merenickname; and literally signifies, one talking through his nose. Thefirst monarch of that name, being on a war party, and sleepingovernight among the mountains, awoke one morning with a cold in hishead; and some wag of a courtier had no more manners than tovulgarize him thus. 

How different from the volatile Polynesian in this, as in all otherrespects, is our grave and decorous North American Indian. While theformer bestows a name in accordance with some humorous or ignobletrait, the latter seizes upon what is deemed the most exalted orwarlike: and hence, among the red tribes, we have the truly patricianappellations of "White Eagles, " "Young Oaks, " "Fiery Eyes, " and"Bended Bows. "

CHAPTER LXIX. 

THE COCOA-PALM

WHILE the doctor and the natives were taking a digestive nap afterdinner, I strolled forth to have a peep at the country which couldproduce so generous a meal. 

To my surprise, a fine strip of land in the vicinity of the hamlet, and protected seaward by a grove of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, was under high cultivation. Sweet potatoes, Indian turnips, and yamswere growing; also melons, a few pine-apples, and other fruits. Stillmore pleasing was the sight of young bread-fruit and cocoa-nut treesset out with great care, as if, for once, the improvident Polynesianhad thought of his posterity. But this was the only instance of nativethrift which ever came under my observation. For, in all my ramblesover Tahiti and Imeeo, nothing so much struck me as the comparativescarcity of these trees in many places where they ought to abound. Entire valleys, like Martair, of inexhaustible fertility areabandoned to all the rankness of untamed vegetation. Alluvial flatsbordering the sea, and watered by streams from the mountains, areover-grown with a wild, scrub guava-bush, introduced by foreigners, and which spreads with such fatal rapidity that the natives, standingstill while it grows, anticipate its covering the entire island. Eventracts of clear land, which, with so little pains, might be made towave with orchards, lie wholly neglected. 

When I considered their unequalled soil and climate, thusunaccountably slighted, I often turned in amazement upon the nativesabout Papeetee; some of whom all but starve in their gardens run towaste. Upon other islands which I have visited, of similar fertility, and wholly unreclaimed from their first-discovered condition, nospectacle of this sort was presented. 

The high estimation in which many of their fruit-trees are held by theTahitians and Imeeose--their beauty in the landscape--their manifolduses, and the facility with which they are propagated, areconsiderations which render the remissness alluded to still moreunaccountable. The cocoa-palm is as an example; a tree by far themost important production of Nature in the Tropics. To thePolynesians it is emphatically the Tree of Life; transcending eventhe bread-fruit in the multifarious uses to which it is applied. 

Its very aspect is imposing. Asserting its supremacy by an erect andlofty bearing, it may be said to compare with other trees as man withinferior creatures. 

The blessings it confers are incalculable. Tear after year, theislander reposes beneath its shade, both eating and drinking of itsfruit; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves them intobaskets to carry his food; he cools himself with a fan platted fromthe young leaflets, and shields his head from the sun by a bonnet ofthe leaves; sometimes he clothes himself with the cloth-likesubstance which wraps round the base of the stalks, whose elasticrods, strung with filberts, are used as a taper; the larger nuts, thinned and polished, furnish him with a beautiful goblet: thesmaller ones, with bowls for his pipes; the dry husks kindle hisfires; their fibres are twisted into fishing-lines and cords for hiscanoes; he heals his wounds with a balsam compounded from the juiceof the nut; and with the oil extracted from its meat embalms thebodies of the dead. 

The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn into posts, it upholds the islander's dwelling; converted into charcoal, it cookshis food; and supported on blocks of stone, rails in his lands. Heimpels his canoe through the water with a paddle of the wood, andgoes to battle with clubs and spears of the same hard material. 

In pagan Tahiti a cocoa-nut branch was the symbol of regal authority. Laid upon the sacrifice in the temple, it made the offering sacred;and with it the priests chastised and put to flight the evil spiritswhich assailed them. The supreme majesty of Oro, the great god oftheir mythology, was declared in the cocoa-nut log from which hisimage was rudely carved. Upon one of the Tonga Islands, there standsa living tree revered itself as a deity. Even upon the SandwichIslands, the cocoa-palm retains all its ancient reputation; thepeople there having thought of adopting it as the national emblem. 

The cocoa-nut is planted as follows: Selecting a suitable place, youdrop into the ground a fully ripe nut, and leave it. In a few days, athin, lance-like shoot forces itself through a minute hole in theshell, pierces the husk, and soon unfolds three pale-green leaves inthe air; while originating, in the same soft white sponge which nowcompletely fills the nut, a pair of fibrous roots, pushing away thestoppers which close two holes in an opposite direction, penetratethe shell, and strike vertically into the ground. A day or two more, and the shell and husk, which, in the last and germinating stage ofthe nut, are so hard that a knife will scarcely make any impression, spontaneously burst by some force within; and, henceforth, the hardyyoung plant thrives apace; and needing no culture, pruning, orattention of any sort, rapidly advances to maturity. In four or fiveyears it bears; in twice as many more, it begins to lift its headamong the groves, where, waxing strong, it flourishes for near acentury. 

Thus, as some voyager has said, the man who but drops one of thesenuts into the ground may be said to confer a greater and more certainbenefit upon himself and posterity than many a life's toil in lessgenial climes. 

The fruitfulness of the tree is remarkable. As long as it lives itbears, and without intermission. Two hundred nuts, besidesinnumerable white blossoms of others, may be seen upon it at onetime; and though a whole year is required to bring any one of them tothe germinating point, no two, perhaps, are at one time in preciselythe same stage of growth. 

The tree delights in a maritime situation. In its greatest perfection, it is perhaps found right on the seashore, where its roots areactually washed. But such instances are only met with upon islandswhere the swell of the sea is prevented from breaking on the beach byan encircling reef. No saline flavour is perceptible in the nutproduced in such a place. Although it bears in any soil, whetherupland or bottom, it does not flourish vigorously inland; and I havefrequently observed that, when met with far up the valley, its tallstem inclines seaward, as if pining after a more genial region. 

It is a curious fact that if you deprive the cocoa-nut tree of theverdant tuft at its head, it dies at once; and if allowed to standthus, the trunk, which, when alive, is encased in so hard a bark asto be almost impervious to a bullet, moulders away, and, in anincredibly short period, becomes dust. This is, perhaps, partly owingto the peculiar constitution of the trunk, a mere cylinder of minutehollow reeds, closely packed, and very hard; but, when exposed attop, peculiarly fitted to convey moisture and decay through theentire stem. 

The finest orchard of cocoa-palms I know, and the only plantation ofthem I ever saw at the islands, is one that stands right upon thesouthern shore of Papeetee Bay. They were set out by the firstPomaree, almost half a century ago; and the soil being especiallyadapted to their growth, the noble trees now form a magnificentgrove, nearly a mile in extent. No other plant, scarcely a bush, isto be seen within its precincts. The Broom Road passes through itsentire length. 

At noonday, this grove is one of the most beautiful, serene, witchingplaces that ever was seen. High overhead are ranges of green rustlingarches; through which the sun's rays come down to you in sparkles. You seem to be wandering through illimitable halls of pillars;everywhere you catch glimpses of stately aisles, intersecting eachother at all points. A strange silence, too, reigns far and near; theair flushed with the mellow stillness of a sunset. 

But after the long morning calms, the sea-breeze comes in; andcreeping over the tops of these thousand trees, they nod theirplumes. Soon the breeze freshens; and you hear the branches brushingagainst each other; and the flexible trunks begin to sway. Towardevening the whole grove is rocking to and fro; and the traveller onthe Broom Road is startled by the frequent falling of the nuts, snapped from their brittle stems. They come flying through the air, ringing like jugglers' balls; and often bound along the ground formany rods. 

CHAPTER LXX. 

LIFE AT LOOHOOLOO

FINDING the society at Loohooloo very pleasant, the young ladies, inparticular, being extremely sociable; and, moreover, in love with thefamous good cheer of old Marharvai, we acquiesced in an invitation ofhis to tarry a few days longer. We might then, he said, join a smallcanoe party which was going to a place a league or two distant. Soaverse to all exertion are these people that they really thought theprospect of thus getting rid of a few miles' walking would prevailwith us, even if there were no other inducement. 

The people of the hamlet, as we soon discovered, formed a snug littlecommunity of cousins; of which our host seemed the head. Marharvai, in truth, was a petty chief who owned the neighbouring lands. And asthe wealthy, in most cases, rejoice in a numerous kindred, the familyfooting upon which everybody visited him was, perhaps, ascribable tothe fact of his being the lord of the manor. Like Captain Bob, he was, in some things, a gentleman of the old school--a stickler for thecustoms of a past and pagan age. 

Nowhere else, except in Tamai, did we find the manners of the nativesless vitiated by recent changes. The old-fashioned Tahitian dinnerthey gave us on the day of our arrival was a fair sample of theirgeneral mode of living. 

Our time passed delightfully. The doctor went his way, and I mine. With a pleasant companion, he was forever strolling inland, ostensibly to collect botanical specimens; while I, for the mostpart, kept near the sea; sometimes taking the girls on an aquaticexcursion in a canoe. 

Often we went fishing; not dozing over stupid hooks and lines, butleaping right into the water, and chasing our prey over the coralrocks, spear in hand. 

Spearing fish is glorious sport. The Imeeose, all round the island, catch them in no other way. The smooth shallows between the reef andthe shore, and, at low water, the reef itself, being admirablyadapted to this mode of capturing them. At almost any time of theday--save ever the sacred hour of noon--you may see the fish-hunterspursuing their sport; with loud halloos, brandishing their spears, andsplashing through the water in all directions. Sometimes a solitarynative is seen, far out upon a lonely shallow, wading slowly along, with eye intent and poised spear. 

But the best sport of all is going out upon the great reef itself bytorch-light. The natives follow this recreation with as much spiritas a gentleman of England does the chase; and take full as muchdelight in it. 

The torch is nothing more than a bunch of dry reeds, bound firmlytogether: the spear, a long, light pole, with an iron head, on oneside barbed. 

I shall never forget the night that old Marharvai and the rest of us, paddling off to the reef, leaped at midnight upon the coral ledgeswith waving torches and spears. We were more than a mile from theland; the sullen ocean, thundering upon the outside of the rocks, dashed the spray in our faces, almost extinguishing the flambeaux;and, far as the eye could reach, the darkness of sky and water wasstreaked with a long, misty line of foam, marking the course of thecoral barrier. The wild fishermen, flourishing their weapons, andyelling like so many demons to scare their prey, sprang from ledge toledge, and sometimes darted their spears in the very midst of thebreakers. 

But fish-spearing was not the only sport we had at Loohooloo. Right onthe beach was a mighty old cocoa-nut tree, the roots of which hadbeen underwashed by the waves so that the trunk inclined far over itsbase. From the tuft of the tree a stout cord of bark depended, theend of which swept the water several yards from the shore. This was aTahitian swing. A native lad seizes hold of the cord, and, afterswinging to and fro quite leisurely, all at once sends himself fiftyor sixty feet from the water, rushing through the air like a rocket. I doubt whether any of our rope-dancers would attempt the feat. Formy own part, I had neither head nor heart for it; so, after sending alad aloft with an additional cord, by way of security, I constructed alarge basket of green boughs, in which I and some particular friendsof mine used to swing over sea and land by the hour. 

CHAPTER LXXI. 

WE START FOR TALOO

BRIGHT was the morning, and brighter still the smiles of the youngladies who accompanied us, when we sprang into a sort of familycanoe--wide and roomy--and bade adieu to the hospitable Marharvai andhis tenantry. As we paddled away, they stood upon the beach, waving theirhands, and crying out, "aroha! aroha!" (farewell! farewell!) as longas we were within hearing. 

Very sad at parting with them, we endeavoured, nevertheless, toconsole ourselves in the society of our fellow-passengers. Amongthese were two old ladies; but as they said nothing to us, we willsay nothing about them; nor anything about the old men who managedthe canoe. But of the three mischievous, dark-eyed young witches wholounged in the stern of that comfortable old island gondola, I have agreat deal to say. 

In the first place, one of them was Marhar-Rarrar, the Bright-Eyed;and, in the second place, neither she nor the romps, her companions, ever dreamed of taking the voyage until the doctor and myselfannounced our intention; their going along was nothing more than amadcap frolic; in short, they were a parcel of wicked hoydens, benton mischief, who laughed in your face when you looked sentimental, andonly tolerated your company when making merry at your expense. 

Something or other about us was perpetually awaking their mirth. Attributing this to his own remarkable figure, the doctor increasedtheir enjoyment by assuming the part of a Merry Andrew. Yet his capand bells never jingled but to some tune; and while playing theTom-fool, I more than suspected that he was trying to play the rake. At home, it is deemed auspicious to go a-wooing in epaulets; butamong the Polynesians, your best dress in courting is motley. 

A fresh breeze springing up, we set our sail of matting, and glidedalong as tranquilly as if floating upon an inland stream; the whitereef on one hand, and the green shore on the other. 

Soon, as we turned a headland, we encountered another canoe, paddlingwith might and main in an opposite direction; the strangers shoutingto each other, and a tall fellow in the bow dancing up and down likea crazy man. They shot by us like an arrow, though our fellow-voyagersshouted again and again for them to cease paddling. 

According to the natives, this was a kind of royal mail-canoe, carrying a message from the queen to her friends in a distant part ofthe island. 

Passing several shady bowers which looked quite inviting, we proposedtouching, and diversifying the monotony of a sea-voyage by a strollashore. So, forcing our canoe among the bushes, behind a decayed palmlying partly in the water, we left the old folks to take a nap in theshade, and gallanted the others among the trees, which were heretrellised with vines and creeping shrubs. 

In the early part of the afternoon, we drew near the place to whichthe party were going. It was a solitary house inhabited by four orfive old women, who, when we entered, were gathered in a circle aboutthe mats, eating poee from a cracked calabash. They seemed delightedat seeing our companions, but rather drew up when introduced toourselves. Eyeing us distrustfully, they whispered to know who wewere. The answers they received were not satisfactory; for theytreated us with marked coolness and reserve, and seemed desirous ofbreaking off our acquaintance with the girls. Unwilling, therefore, to stay where our company was disagreeable, we resolved to departwithout even eating a meal. 

Informed of this, Marhar-Rarrar and her companions evinced the mostlively concern; and equally unmindful of their former spirits, andthe remonstrances of the old ladies, broke forth into sobs andlamentations which were not to be withstood. We agreed, therefore, totarry until they left for home; which would be at the "Aheharar, " orFalling of the Sun; in other words, at sunset. 

When the hour arrived, after much leave-taking, we saw them safelyembarked. As the canoe turned a bluff, they seized the paddles fromthe hands of the old men, and waved them silently in the air. Thiswas meant for a touching farewell, as the paddle is only waved thuswhen the parties separating never more expect to meet. 

We now continued our journey; and, following the beach, soon came to alevel and lofty overhanging bank, which, planted here and there withtrees, took a broad sweep round a considerable part of the island. 

A fine pathway skirted the edge of the bank; and often we paused toadmire the scenery. The evening was still and fair, even for soheavenly a climate; and all round, as far as the eye could reach, wasthe blending blue sky and ocean. 

As we went on, the reef-belt still accompanied us; turning as weturned, and thundering its distant bass upon the ear, like theunbroken roar of a cataract. Dashing forever against their coralrampart, the breakers looked, in the distance, like a line of rearingwhite chargers, reined in, tossing their white manes, and bridlingwith foam. 

These great natural breakwaters are admirably designed for theprotection of the land. Nearly all the Society Islands are defendedby them. Were the vast swells of the Pacific to break against thesoft alluvial bottoms which in many places border the sea, the soilwould soon be washed away, and the natives be thus deprived of theirmost productive lands. As it is, the banks of no rivulet are firmer. 

But the coral barriers answer another purpose. They form all theharbours of this group, including the twenty-four round about theshores of Tahiti. Curiously enough, the openings in the reefs, bywhich alone vessels enter to their anchorage, are invariably oppositethe mouths of running streams: an advantage fully appreciated by themariner who touches for the purpose of watering his ship. 

It is said that the fresh water of the land, mixing with the saltsheld in solution by the sea, so acts upon the latter as to resist theformation of the coral; and hence the breaks. Here and there, theseopenings are sentinelled, as it were, by little fairy islets, greenas emerald, and waving with palms. Strangely and beautifullydiversifying the long line of breakers, no objects can strike thefancy more vividly. Pomaree II. , with a taste in watering-placestruly Tahitian, selected one of them as a royal retreat. We passed iton our journey. 

Omitting several further adventures which befell us after leaving theparty from Loohooloo, we must now hurry on to relate what happenedjust before reaching the place of our destination. 

CHAPTER LXXII. 

A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND

IT MUST have been at least the tenth day, reckoning from the Hegira, that we found ourselves the guests of Varvy, an old hermit of anislander who kept house by himself perhaps a couple of leagues fromTaloo. 

A stone's-cast from the beach there was a fantastic rock, moss-grownand deep in a dell. It was insulated by a shallow brook, which, dividing its waters, flowed on both sides until united below. Twisting its roots round the rock, a gnarled "Aoa" spread itselfoverhead in a wilderness of foliage; the elastic branch-rootsdepending from the larger boughs insinuating themselves into everycleft, thus forming supports to the parent stem. In some places thesependulous branches, half-grown, had not yet reached the rock;swinging their loose fibrous ends in the air like whiplashes. 

Varvy's hut, a mere coop of bamboos, was perched upon a level part ofthe rock, the ridge-pole resting at one end in a crotch of the "Aoa, "and the other propped by a forked bough planted in a fissure. 

Notwithstanding our cries as we drew near, the first hint the oldhermit received of our approach was the doctor's stepping up andtouching his shoulder, as he was kneeling over on a stone cleaningfish in the brook. He leaped up, and stared at us. But with a varietyof uncouth gestures, he soon made us welcome; informing us, by thesame means, that he was both deaf and dumb; he then motioned us intohis dwelling. 

Going in, we threw ourselves upon an old mat, and peered round. Thesoiled bamboos and calabashes looked so uninviting that the doctorwas for pushing on to Taloo that night, notwithstanding it was nearsunset. But at length we concluded to stay where we were. 

After a good deal of bustling outside under a decrepit shed, the oldman made his appearance with our supper. In one hand he held aflickering taper, and in the other, a huge, flat calabash, scantilyfilled with viands. His eyes were dancing in his head, and he lookedfrom the calabash to us, and from us to the calabash, as much as tosay, "Ah, my lads, what do ye think of this, eh? Pretty good cheer, eh?" But the fish and Indian turnip being none of the best, we madebut a sorry meal. While discussing it, the old man tried hard to makehimself understood by signs; most of which were so excessivelyludicrous that we made no doubt he was perpetrating a series ofpantomimic jokes. 

The remnants of the feast removed, our host left us for a moment, returning with a calabash of portly dimensions and furnished with along, hooked neck, the mouth of which was stopped with a wooden plug. It was covered with particles of earth, and looked as if just takenfrom some place underground. 

With sundry winks and horrible giggles peculiar to the dumb, thevegetable demijohn was now tapped; the old fellow looking roundcautiously, and pointing at it; as much as to intimate that itcontained something which was "taboo, " or forbidden. 

Aware that intoxicating liquors were strictly prohibited to thenatives, we now watched our entertainer with much interest. Charginga cocoa-nut shell, he tossed it off, and then filling up again, presented the goblet to me. Disliking the smell, I made faces at it;upon which he became highly excited; so much so that a miracle waswrought upon the spot. Snatching the cup from my hands, he shoutedout, "Ah, karhowree sabbee lee-lee ena arva tee maitai!" in otherwords, what a blockhead of a white man! this is the real stuff!

We could not have been more startled had a frog leaped from his mouth. For an instant, he looked confused enough himself; and then placing afinger mysteriously upon his mouth, he contrived to make usunderstand that at times he was subject to a suspension of the powersof speech. 

Deeming the phenomenon a remarkable one, every way, the doctor desiredhim to open his mouth so that he might have a look down. But herefused. 

This occurrence made us rather suspicious of our host; nor could weafterward account for his conduct, except by supposing that hisfeigning dumbness might in some way or other assist him in thenefarious pursuits in which it afterwards turned out that he wasengaged. This conclusion, however, was not altogether satisfactory. 

To oblige him, we at last took a sip of his "arva tee, " and found itvery crude, and strong as Lucifer. Curious to know whence it wasobtained, we questioned him; when, lighting up with pleasure, heseized the taper, and led us outside the hut, bidding us follow. 

After going some distance through the woods, we came to a dismantledold shed of boughs, apparently abandoned to decay. Underneath, nothing was to be seen but heaps of decaying leaves and an immense, clumsy jar, wide-mouthed, and by some means, rudely hollowed out froma ponderous stone. 

Here, for a while, we were left to ourselves; the old man placing thelight in the jar, and then disappearing. He returned, carrying along, large bamboo, and a crotched stick. Throwing these down, hepoked under a pile of rubbish, and brought out a rough block of wood, pierced through and through with a hole, which was immediatelyclapped on the top of the jar. Then planting the crotched stickupright about two yards distant, and making it sustain one end of thebamboo, he inserted the other end of the latter into the hole in theblock: concluding these arrangements by placing an old calabash underthe farther end of the bamboo. 

Coming up to us now with a sly, significant look, and pointingadmiringly at his apparatus, he exclaimed, "Ah, karhowree, enahannahanna arva tee!" as much as to say, "This, you see, is the wayit's done. "

His contrivance was nothing less than a native still, where hemanufactured his island "poteen. " The disarray in which we found itwas probably intentional, as a security against detection. Before weleft the shed, the old fellow toppled the whole concern over, anddragged it away piecemeal. 

His disclosing his secret to us thus was characteristic of the "TootaiOwrees, " or contemners of the missionaries among the natives; who, presuming that all foreigners are opposed to the ascendancy of themissionaries, take pleasure in making them confidants, whenever theenactments of their rulers are secretly set at nought. 

The substance from which the liquor is produced is called "Tee, " whichis a large, fibrous root, something like yam, but smaller. In itsgreen state, it is exceedingly acrid; but boiled or baked, has thesweetness of the sugar-cane. After being subjected to the fire, macerated and reduced to a certain stage of fermentation, the "Tee"is stirred up with water, and is then ready for distillation. 

On returning to the hut, pipes were introduced; and, after a while, Long Ghost, who, at first, had relished the "Arva Tee" as little asmyself, to my surprise, began to wax sociable over it, with Varvy;and, before long, absolutely got mellow, the old toper keeping himcompany. 

It was a curious sight. Everyone knows that, so long as the occasionlasts, there is no stronger bond of sympathy and good feeling amongmen than getting tipsy together. And how earnestly, nay, movingly, abrace of worthies, thus employed, will endeavour to shed light upon, and elucidate their mystical ideas!

Fancy Varvy and the doctor, then, lovingly tippling, and brimming overwith a desire to become better acquainted; the doctor politely bentupon carrying on the conversation in the language of his host, andthe old hermit persisting in trying to talk English. The result wasthat, between the two, they made such a fricassee of vowels andconsonants that it was enough to turn one's brain. 

The next morning, on waking, I heard a voice from the tombs. It wasthe doctor solemnly pronouncing himself a dead man. He was sittingup, with both hands clasped over his forehead, and his pale face athousand times paler than ever. 

"That infernal stuff has murdered me!" he cried. "Heavens! my head'sall wheels and springs, like the automaton chess-player! What's to bedone, Paul? I'm poisoned. "

But, after drinking a herbal draught concocted by our host, and eatinga light meal, at noon, he felt much better; so much so that hedeclared himself ready to continue our journey. 

When we came to start, the Yankee's boots were missing; and, after adiligent search, were not to be found. Enraged beyond measure, theirproprietor said that Varvy must have stolen them; but, consideringhis hospitality, I thought this extremely improbable; though to whomelse to impute the theft I knew not. The doctor maintained, however, that one who was capable of drugging an innocent traveller with "ArvaTee" was capable of anything. 

But it was in vain that he stormed, and Varvy and I searched; theboots were gone. 

Were it not for this mysterious occurrence, and Varvy's detestableliquors, I would here recommend all travellers going round by thebeach to Partoowye to stop at the Rock, and patronize the oldgentleman--the more especially as he entertains gratis. 

CHAPTER LXXIII. 

OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE

UPON starting, at last, I flung away my sandals--by this time quiteworn out--with the view of keeping company with the doctor, nowforced to go barefooted. Recovering his spirits in good time, heprotested that boots were a bore after all, and going without themdecidedly manly. 

This was said, be it observed, while strolling along over a softcarpet of grass; a little moist, even at midday, from the shade ofthe wood through which we were passing. 

Emerging from this we entered upon a blank, sandy tract, upon whichthe sun's rays fairly flashed; making the loose gravel under footwell nigh as hot as the floor of an oven. Such yelling and leaping asthere was in getting over this ground would be hard to surpass. Wecould not have crossed at all--until toward sunset--had it not beenfor a few small, wiry bushes growing here and there, into which weevery now and then thrust our feet to cool. There was no littlejudgment necessary in selecting your bush; for if not chosenjudiciously, the chances were that, on springing forward again, andfinding the next bush so far off that an intermediate cooling wasindispensable, you would have to run hack to your old place again. 

Safely passing the Sahara, or Fiery Desert, we soothed ourhalf-blistered feet by a pleasant walk through a meadow of longgrass, which soon brought us in sight of a few straggling houses, sheltered by a grove on the outskirts of the village of Partoowye. 

My comrade was for entering the first one we came to; but, on drawingnear, they had so much of an air of pretension, at least for nativedwellings, that I hesitated; thinking they might be the residences ofthe higher chiefs, from whom no very extravagant welcome was to beanticipated. 

While standing irresolute, a voice from the nearest house hailed us:"Aramai! aramai, karhowree!" (Come in! come in, strangers!)

We at once entered, and were warmly greeted. The master of the housewas an aristocratic-looking islander, dressed in loose linen drawers, a fine white shirt, and a sash of red silk tied about the waist, after the fashion of the Spaniards in Chili. He came up to us with afree, frank air, and, striking his chest with his hand, introducedhimself as Ereemear Po-Po; or, to render the Christian name back againinto English--Jeremiah Po-Po. 

These curious combinations of names among the people of the SocietyIslands originate in the following way. When a native is baptized, his patronymic often gives offence to the missionaries, and theyinsist upon changing to something else whatever is objectionabletherein. So, when Jeremiah came to the font, and gave his name asNarmo-Nana Po-Po (something equivalent to The-Darer-of-Devils-by-Night), the reverend gentleman officiating told him that such a heathenishappellation would never do, and a substitute must be had; at leastfor the devil part of it. Some highly respectable Christianappellations were then submitted, from which the candidate foradmission into the church was at liberty to choose. There was Adamo(Adam), Nooar (Noah), Daveedar (David), Earcobar (James), Eorna (John), Patoora (Peter), Ereemear (Jeremiah), etc. And thus did he come tobe named Jeremiah Po-Po; or, Jeremiah-in-the-Dark--which he certainlywas, I fancy, as to the ridiculousness of his new cognomen. 

We gave our names in return; upon which he bade us be seated; and, sitting down himself, asked us a great many questions, in mixedEnglish and Tahitian. After giving some directions to an old man toprepare food, our host's wife, a large, benevolent-looking woman, upwards of forty, also sat down by us. In our soiled andtravel-stained appearance, the good lady seemed to find abundantmatter for commiseration; and all the while kept looking at uspiteously, and making mournful exclamations. 

But Jeremiah and his spouse were not the only inmates of the mansion. 

In one corner, upon a large native couch, elevated upon posts, reclined a nymph; who, half-veiled in her own long hair, had yet tomake her toilet for the day. She was the daughter of Po-Po; and avery beautiful little daughter she was; not more than fourteen; withthe most delightful shape--like a bud just blown; and large hazeleyes. They called her Loo; a name rather pretty and genteel, andtherefore quite appropriate; for a more genteel and lady-like littledamsel there was not in all Imeeo. 

She was a cold and haughty young beauty though, this same little Loo, and never deigned to notice us; further than now and then to let hereyes float over our persons, with an expression of indolentindifference. With the tears of the Loohooloo girls hardly dry fromtheir sobbing upon our shoulders, this contemptuous treatment stungus not a little. 

When we first entered, Po-Po was raking smooth the carpet of driedferns which had that morning been newly laid; and now that our mealwas ready, it was spread on a banana leaf, right upon this fragrantfloor. Here we lounged at our ease, eating baked pig and breadfruitoff earthen plates, and using, for the first time in many a longmonth, real knives and forks. 

These, as well as other symptoms of refinement, somewhat abated oursurprise at the reserve of the little Loo; her parents, doubtless, were magnates in Partoowye, and she herself was an heiress. 

After being informed of our stay in the vale of Martair, they werevery curious to know on what errand we came to Taloo. We merelyhinted that the ship lying in the harbour was the reason of ourcoming. 

Arfretee, Po-Po's wife, was a right motherly body. The meal over, sherecommended a nap; and upon our waking much refreshed, she led us tothe doorway, and pointed down among the trees; through which we sawthe gleam of water. Taking the hint, we repaired thither; and findinga deep shaded pool, bathed, and returned to the house. Our hostessnow sat down by us; and after looking with great interest at thedoctor's cloak, felt of my own soiled and tattered garments for thehundredth time, and exclaimed plaintively--"Ah nuee nuee olee manee!olee manee!" (Alas! they are very, very old! very old!)

When Arfretee, good soul, thus addressed us, she thought she wastalking very respectable English. The word "nuee" is so familiar toforeigners throughout Polynesia, and is so often used by them intheir intercourse with the natives, that the latter suppose it to becommon to all mankind. "Olee manee" is the native pronunciation of"old man, " which, by Society Islanders talking Saxon, is appliedindiscriminately to all aged things and persons whatsoever. 

Going to a chest filled with various European articles, she took outtwo suits of new sailor frocks and trousers; and presenting them witha gracious smile, pushed us behind a calico screen, and left us. Without any fastidious scruples, we donned the garments; and whatwith the meal, the nap, and the bath, we now came forth like a coupleof bridegrooms. 

Evening drawing on, lamps were lighted. They were very simple; thehalf of a green melon, about one third full of cocoa-nut oil, and awick of twisted tappa floating on the surface. As a night lamp, thiscontrivance cannot be excelled; a soft dreamy light being shedthrough the transparent rind. 

As the evening advanced, other members of the household, whom as yetwe had not seen, began to drop in. There was a slender young dandy ina gay striped shirt, and whole fathoms of bright figured calicotucked about his waist, and falling to the ground. He wore a newstraw hat also with three distinct ribbons tied about the crown; oneblack, one green, and one pink. Shoes or stockings, however, he hadnone. 

There were a couple of delicate, olive-cheeked littlegirls--twins--with mild eyes and beautiful hair, who ran about thehouse, half-naked, like a couple of gazelles. They had a brother, somewhat younger--a fine dark boy, with an eye like a woman's. Allthese were the children of Po-Po, begotten in lawful wedlock. 

Then there were two or three queer-looking old ladies, who wore shabbymantles of soiled sheeting, which fitted so badly, and withal hadsuch a second-hand look that I at once put their wearers down asdomestic paupers--poor relations, supported by the bounty of My LadyArfretee. They were sad, meek old bodies; said little and ate less;and either kept their eyes on the ground, or lifted them updeferentially. The semi-civilization of the island must have hadsomething to do with making them what they were. 

I had almost forgotten Monee, the grinning old man who prepared ourmeal. His head was a shining, bald globe. He had a round littlepaunch, and legs like a cat. He was Po-Po's factotum--cook, butler, and climber of the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees; and, added to allelse, a mighty favourite with his mistress; with whom he would sitsmoking and gossiping by the hour. 

Often you saw the indefatigable Monee working away at a great rate;then dropping his employment all at once--never mind what--run off toa little distance, and after rolling himself away in a corner andtaking a nap, jump up again, and fall to with fresh vigour. 

From a certain something in the behaviour of Po-Po and his household, I was led to believe that he was a pillar of the church; though, fromwhat I had seen in Tahiti, I could hardly reconcile such asupposition with his frank, cordial, unembarrassed air. But I wasnot wrong in my conjecture: Po-Po turned out to be a sort of elder, or deacon; he was also accounted a man of wealth, and was nearlyrelated to a high chief. 

Before retiring, the entire household gathered upon the floor; and intheir midst, he read aloud a chapter from a Tahitian Bible. Thenkneeling with the rest of us, he offered up a prayer. Upon itsconclusion, all separated without speaking. These devotions tookplace regularly, every night and morning. Grace too was invariablysaid, by this family, both before and after eating. 

After becoming familiarized with the almost utter destitution ofanything like practical piety upon these islands, what I observed in. Our host's house astonished me much. But whatever others might havebeen, Po-Po was, in truth, a Christian: the only one, Arfreteeexcepted, whom I personally knew to be such, among all the natives ofPolynesia. 

CHAPTER LXXIV. 

RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT--THE DOCTOR GROWS DEVOUT

THEY put us to bed very pleasantly. 

Lying across the foot of Po-Po's nuptial couch was a smaller one madeof Koar-wood; a thin, strong cord, twisted from the fibres of thehusk of the cocoa-nut, and woven into an exceedingly light sort ofnetwork, forming its elastic body. Spread upon this was a single, fine mat, with a roll of dried ferns for a pillow, and a strip ofwhite tappa for a sheet. This couch was mine. The doctor was providedfor in another corner. 

Loo reposed alone on a little settee with a taper burning by her side;the dandy, her brother, swinging overhead in a sailor's hammock Thetwo gazelles frisked upon a mat near by; and the indigent relationsborrowed a scant corner of the old butler's pallet, who snored awayby the open door. After all had retired, Po-Po placed the illuminatedmelon in the middle of the apartment; and so, we all slumbered tillmorning. 

Upon awaking, the sun was streaming brightly through the open bamboos, but no one was stirring. After surveying the fine attitudes intowhich forgetfulness had thrown at least one of the sleepers, myattention was called off to the general aspect of the dwelling, whichwas quite significant of the superior circumstances of our host. 

The house itself was built in the simple, but tasteful native style. It was a long, regular oval, some fifty feet in length, with lowsides of cane-work, and a roof thatched with palmetto-leaves. Theridgepole was, perhaps, twenty feet from the ground. There was nofoundation whatever; the bare earth being merely covered with ferns; akind of carpeting which serves very well, if frequently renewed;otherwise, it becomes dusty, and the haunt of vermin, as in the hutsof the poorer natives. 

Besides the couches, the furniture consisted of three or four sailorchests; in which were stored the fine wearing-apparel of thehousehold--the ruffled linen shirts of Po-Po, the calico dresses ofhis wife and children, and divers odds and ends of Europeanarticles--strings of beads, ribbons, Dutch looking-glasses, knives, coarse prints, bunches of keys, bits of crockery, and metal buttons. One of these chests--used as a bandbox by Arfretee--containedseveral of the native hats (coal-scuttles), all of the same pattern, but trimmed with variously-coloured ribbons. Of nothing was our goodhostess more proud than of these hats, and her dresses. On Sundays, she went abroad a dozen times; and every time, like Queen Elizabeth, in a different robe. 

Po-Po, for some reason or other, always gave us our meals before therest of the family were served; and the doctor, who was verydiscerning in such matters, declared that we fared much better thanthey. Certain it was that, had Ereemear's guests travelled withpurses, portmanteau, and letters of introduction to the queen, theycould not have been better cared for. 

The day after our arrival, Monee, the old butler, brought us in fordinner a small pig, baked in the ground. All savoury, it lay in awooden trencher, surrounded by roasted hemispheres of the breadfruit. A large calabash, filled with taro pudding, or poee, followed; andthe young dandy, overcoming his customary languor, threw down ourcocoa-nuts from an adjoining tree. 

When all was ready, and the household looking on, Long Ghost, devoutlyclasping his hands over the fated pig, implored a blessing. Hereupon, everybody present looked exceedingly pleased; Po-Po coming up andaddressing the doctor with much warmth; and Arfretee, regarding himwith almost maternal affection, exclaimed delightedly, "Ah!mickonaree tata matai!" in other words, "What a pious young man!"

It was just after this meal that she brought me a roll of grasssinnate (of the kind which sailors sew into the frame of theirtarpaulins), and then, handing me needle and thread, bade me begin atonce, and make myself the hat which I so much needed. An accomplishedhand at the business, I finished it that day--merely stitching thebraid together; and Arfretee, by way of rewarding my industry, withher own olive hands ornamented the crown with a band offlame-coloured ribbon; the two long ends of which streaming behind, sailor-fashion, still preserved for me the Eastern title bestowed byLong Ghost. 

CHAPTER LXXV. 

A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT

THE following morning, making our toilets carefully, we donned oursombreros, and sallied out on a tour. Without meaning to reveal ourdesigns upon the court, our principal object was, to learn whatchances there were for white men to obtain employment under thequeen. On this head, it is true, we had questioned Po-Po; but hisanswers had been very discouraging; so we determined to obtainfurther information elsewhere. 

But, first, to give some little description of the village. 

The settlement of Partoowye is nothing more than some eighty houses, scattered here and there, in the midst of an immense grove, where thetrees have been thinned out and the underbrush cleared away. Throughthe grove flows a stream; and the principal avenue crosses it, overan elastic bridge of cocoa-nut trunks, laid together side by side. The avenue is broad, and serpentine; well shaded from one end to theother, and as pretty a place for a morning promenade as any loungercould wish. The houses, constructed without the slightest regard tothe road, peep into view from among the trees on either side: somelooking you right in the face as you pass, and others, without anymanners, turning their backs. Occasionally you observe a ruralretreat, inclosed by a picket of bamboos, or with a solitary pane ofglass massively framed in the broadside of the dwelling, or with arude, strange-looking door, swinging upon dislocated wooden hinges. Otherwise, the dwellings are built in the original style of thenatives; and never mind how mean and filthy some of them may appearwithin, they all look picturesque enough without. 

As we sauntered along the people we met saluted us pleasantly, andinvited us into their houses; and in this way we made a good manybrief morning calls. But the hour could not have been the fashionableone in Partoowye, since the ladies were invariably in dishabille. Butthey always gave us a cordial reception, and were particularly politeto the doctor; caressing him, and amorously hanging about his neck;wonderfully taken up, in short, with a gay handkerchief he wore there. Arfretee had that morning bestowed it upon the pious youth. 

With some exceptions, the general appearance of the natives ofPartoowye was far better than that of the inhabitants of Papeetee: acircumstance only to be imputed to their restricted intercourse withforeigners. 

Strolling on, we turned a sweep of the road, when the doctor gave astart; and no wonder. Right before us, in the grove, was a block ofhouses: regular square frames, boarded over, furnished with windowsand doorways, and two stories high. We ran up and found them fastgoing to decay: very dingy, and here and there covered with moss; nosashes, no doors; and on one side, the entire block had settled downnearly a foot. On going into the basement we looked clean up throughthe unbearded timbers to the roof; where rays of light, glimmeringthrough many a chink, illuminated the cobwebs which swung all round. 

The whole interior was dark and close. Burrowing among some old matsin one corner, like a parcel of gipsies in a ruin, were a fewvagabond natives. They had their dwelling here. 

Curious to know who on earth could have been thus trying to improvethe value of real estate in Partoowye, we made inquiries; and learnedthat some years previous the block had been thrown up by a veritableYankee (one might have known that), a house-carpenter by trade, and abold, enterprising fellow by nature. 

Put ashore from his ship, sick, he first went to work and got well;then sallied out with chisel and plane, and made himself generallyuseful. A sober, steady man, it seems, he at last obtained theconfidence of several chiefs, and soon filled them with all sorts ofideas concerning the alarming want of public spirit in the people ofImeeo. More especially did he dwell upon the humiliating fact oftheir living in paltry huts of bamboo, when magnificent palaces ofboards might so easily be mortised together. 

In the end, these representations so far prevailed with one old chiefthat the carpenter was engaged to build a batch of these wonderfulpalaces. Provided with plenty of men, he at once set to work: built asaw-mill among the mountains, felled trees, and sent over to Papeeteefor nails. 

Presto! the castle rose; but alas, the roof was hardly on, when theYankee's patron, having speculated beyond his means, broke all topieces, and was absolutely unable to pay one "plug" of tobacco in thepound. His failure involved the carpenter, who sailed away from hiscreditors in the very next ship that touched at the harbour. 

The natives despised the rickety palace of boards; and often loungedby, wagging their heads, and jeering. 

We were told that the queen's residence was at the extreme end of thevillage; so, without waiting for the doctor to procure a fiddle, wesuddenly resolved upon going thither at once, and learning whetherany privy counsellorships were vacant. 

Now, although there was a good deal of my waggish comrade's nonsenseabout what has been said concerning our expectations of courtpreferment, we, nevertheless, really thought that something to ouradvantage might turn up in that quarter. 

On approaching the palace grounds, we found them rather peculiar. Abroad pier of hewn coral rocks was built right out into the water;and upon this, and extending into a grove adjoining, were some eightor ten very large native houses, constructed in the handsomest styleand inclosed together by a low picket of bamboos, which embraced aconsiderable area. 

Throughout the Society Islands, the residences of the chiefs aremostly found in the immediate vicinity of the sea; a site which givesthem the full benefit of a cooling breeze; nor are they so liable tothe annoyance of insects; besides enjoying, when they please, thefine shade afforded by the neighbouring groves, always most luxuriantnear the water. 

Lounging about the grounds were some sixty or eightyhandsomely-dressed natives, men and women; some reclining on theshady side of the houses, others under the trees, and a small groupconversing close by the railing facing us. 

We went up to the latter; and giving the usual salutation, were on thepoint of vaulting over the bamboos, when they turned upon us angrily, and said we could not enter. We stated our earnest desire to see thequeen; hinting that we were bearers of important dispatches. But itwas to no purpose; and not a little vexed, we were obliged to returnto Po-Po's without effecting anything. 

CHAPTER LXXVI. 

AN ISLAND JILT--WE VISIT THE SHIP

UPON arriving home we fully laid open to Po-Po our motives in visitingTaloo, and begged his friendly advice. In his broken English hecheerfully gave us all the information we needed. 

It was true, he said, that the queen entertained some idea of making astand against the French; and it was currently reported also thatseveral chiefs from Borabora, Huwyenee, Raiatair, and Tahar, theleeward islands of the group, were at that very time taking counselwith her as to the expediency of organizing a general movementthroughout the entire cluster, with a view of anticipating any furtherencroachments on the part of the invaders. Should warlike measures beactually decided upon, it was quite certain that Pomaree would beglad to enlist all the foreigners she could; but as to her makingofficers of either the doctor or me, that was out of the question;because, already, a number of Europeans, well known to her, hadvolunteered as such. Concerning our getting immediate access to thequeen, Po-Po told us it was rather doubtful; she living at that timevery retired, in poor health, and spirits, and averse to receivingcalls. Previous to her misfortunes, however, no one, however humble, was denied admittance to her presence; sailors, even, attended herlevees. 

Not at all disheartened by these things, we concluded to kill time inPartoowye until some event turned up more favourable to our projects. So that very day we sallied out on an excursion to the ship which, lying land-locked far up the bay, yet remained to be visited. 

Passing on our route a long, low shed, a voice hailed us--"White menahoy!" Turning round, who should we see but a rosy-cheeked Englishman(you could tell his country at a glance), up to his knees inshavings, and planing away at a bench. He turned out to be a runawayship's carpenter, recently from Tahiti, and now doing a profitablebusiness in Imeeo, by fitting up the dwellings of opulent chiefs withcupboards and other conveniences, and once in a while trying his handat a lady's work-box. He had been in the settlement but a few months, and already possessed houses and lands. 

But though blessed with prosperity and high health, there was onething wanting--a wife. And when he came to speak of the matter, hiscountenance fell, and he leaned dejectedly upon his plane. 

"It's too bad!" he sighed, "to wait three long years; and all thewhile, dear little Lullee living in the same house with that infernalchief from Tahar!"

Our curiosity was piqued; the poor carpenter, then, had been fallingin love with some island coquette, who was going to jilt him. 

But such was not the case. There was a law prohibiting, under a heavypenalty, the marriage of a native with a foreigner, unless thelatter, after being three years a resident on the island, was willingto affirm his settled intention of remaining for life. 

William was therefore in a sad way. He told us that he might havemarried the girl half-a-dozen times, had it not been for this odiouslaw: but, latterly, she had become less loving and more giddy, particularly with the strangers from Tahar. Desperately smitten, anddesirous of securing her at all hazards, he had proposed to thedamsel's friends a nice little arrangement, introductory to marriage;but they would not hear of it; besides, if the pair were discoveredliving together upon such a footing, they would be liable to adegrading punishment:--sent to work making stone walls and openingroads for the queen. 

Doctor Long Ghost was all sympathy. "Bill, my good fellow, " said he, tremulously, "let me go and talk to her. " But Bill, declining theoffer, would not even inform us where his charmer lived. 

Leaving the disconsolate Willie planing a plank of New Zealand pine(an importation from the Bay of Islands), and thinking the while ofLullee, we went on our way. How his suit prospered in the end wenever learned. 

Going from Po-Po's house toward the anchorage of the harbour of Taloo, you catch no glimpse of the water until, coming out from deep groves, you all at once find yourself upon the beach. A bay, considered bymany voyagers the most beautiful in the South Seas, then lies beforeyou. You stand upon one side of what seems a deep green river, flowing through mountain passes to the sea. Right opposite a majesticpromontory divides the inlet from another, called after itsdiscoverer, Captain Cook. The face of this promontory toward Taloois one verdant wall; and at its base the waters lie still andfathomless. On the left hand, you just catch a peep of the wideningmouth of the bay, the break in the reef by which ships enter, and, beyond, the sea. To the right, the inlet, sweeping boldly round thepromontory, runs far away into the land; where, save in onedirection, the hills close in on every side, knee-deep in verdure andshooting aloft in grotesque peaks. The open space lies at the head ofthe bay; in the distance it extends into a broad hazy plain lying atthe foot of an amphitheatre of hills. Here is the large sugarplantation previously alluded to. Beyond the first range of hills, you descry the sharp pinnacles of the interior; and among these, thesame silent Marling-spike which we so often admired from the otherside of the island. 

All alone in the harbour lay the good ship Leviathan. We jumped intothe canoe, and paddled off to her. Though early in the afternoon, everything was quiet; but upon mounting the side we found four orfive sailors lounging about the forecastle, under an awning. Theygave us no very cordial reception; and though otherwise quite heartyin appearance, seemed to assume a look of ill-humour on purpose tohonour our arrival. There was much eagerness to learn whether wewanted to "ship"; and by the unpleasant accounts they gave of thevessel, they seemed desirous to prevent such a thing if possible. 

We asked where the rest of the ship's company were; a gruff old fellowmade answer, "One boat's crew of 'em is gone to Davy Jones'slocker:--went off after a whale, last cruise, and never come backagin. All the starboard watch ran away last night, and the skipper'sashore kitching 'em. "

"And it's shipping yer after, my jewels, is it?" cried a curly-patedlittle Belfast sailor, coming up to us, "thin arrah! my livelies, jist be after sailing ashore in a jiffy:--the divil of a skipper willcarry yees both to sea, whether or no. Be off wid ye thin, darlints, and steer clear of the likes of this ballyhoo of blazes as long as yelive. They murther us here every day, and starve us into the bargain. Here, Dick, lad, har! the poor divil's canow alongside; and paddleaway wid yees for dear life. "

But we loitered awhile, listening to more inducements to ship; and atlast concluded to stay to supper. My sheath-knife never cut intobetter sea-beef than that which we found lying in the kid in theforecastle. The bread, too, was hard, dry, and brittle as glass; andthere was plenty of both. 

While we were below, the mate of the vessel called out for someone tocome on deck. I liked his voice. Hearing it was as good as a look athis face. It betokened a true sailor, and no taskmaster. 

The appearance of the Leviathan herself was quite pleasing. Like alllarge, comfortable old whalers, she had a sort of motherlylook:--broad in the beam, flush decks, and four chubby boats hangingat the breast. Her sails were furled loosely upon the yards, as ifthey had been worn long, and fitted easy; her shrouds swungnegligently slack; and as for the "running rigging, " it never workedhard as it does in some of your "dandy ships, " jamming in the sheavesof blocks, like Chinese slippers, too small to be useful: on thecontrary, the ropes ran glibly through, as if they had many a timetravelled the same road, and were used to it. 

When evening came, we dropped into our canoe, and paddled ashore;fully convinced that the good ship never deserved the name which theygave her. 

CHAPTER LXXVII. 

A PARTY OF ROVERS--LITTLE LOO AND THE DOCTOR

WHILE IN Partoowye, we fell in with a band of six veteran rovers, prowling about the village and harbour, who had just come overlandfrom another part of the island. 

A few weeks previous, they had been paid off, at Papeetee, from awhaling vessel, on board of which they had, six months before, shipped for a single cruise; that is to say, to be discharged at thenext port. Their cruise was a famous one; and each man stepped uponthe beach at Tahiti jingling his dollars in a sock. 

Weary at last of the shore, and having some money left, they clubbed, and purchased a sail-boat; proposing a visit to a certain uninhabitedisland, concerning which they had heard strange and golden stories. Of course, they never could think of going to sea without amedicine-chest filled with flasks of spirits, and a small cask of thesame in the hold in case the chest should give out. 

Away they sailed; hoisted a flag of their own, and gave three timesthree, as they staggered out of the bay of Papeetee with a strongbreeze, and under all the "muslin" they could carry. 

Evening coming on, and feeling in high spirits and no ways disposed tosleep, they concluded to make a night of it; which they did; allhands getting tipsy, and the two masts going over the side aboutmidnight, to the tune of

 "Sailing down, sailing down, On the coast of Barbaree. "

Fortunately, one worthy could stand by holding on to the tiller; andthe rest managed to crawl about, and hack away the lanyards of therigging, so as to break clear from the fallen spars. While thusemployed, two sailors got tranquilly over the side, and went plumb tothe bottom, under the erroneous impression that they were steppingupon an imaginary wharf to get at their work better. 

After this, it blew quite a gale; and the commodore, at the helm, instinctively kept the boat before the wind; and by so doing, ranover for the opposite island of Imeeo. Crossing the channel, byalmost a miracle they went straight through an opening in the reef, and shot upon a ledge of coral, where the waters were tolerablysmooth. Here they lay until morning, when the natives came off tothem in their canoes. By the help of the islanders, the schooner washove over on her beam-ends; when, finding the bottom knocked topieces, the adventurers sold the boat for a trifle to the chief ofthe district, and went ashore, rolling before them their precious caskof spirits. Its contents soon evaporated, and they came to Partoowye. 

The day after encountering these fellows, we were strolling among thegroves in the neighbourhood, when we came across several parties ofnatives armed with clumsy muskets, rusty cutlasses, and outlandishclubs. They were beating the bushes, shouting aloud, and apparentlytrying to scare somebody. They were in pursuit of the strangers, who, having in a single night set at nought all the laws of the place, hadthought best to decamp. 

In the daytime, Po-Po's house was as pleasant a lounge as one couldwish. So, after strolling about, and seeing all there was to be seen, we spent the greater part of our mornings there; breakfasting late, and dining about two hours after noon. Sometimes we lounged on thefloor of ferns, smoking, and telling stories; of which the doctor hadas many as a half-pay captain in the army. Sometimes we chatted, aswell as we could, with the natives; and, one day--joy to us!--Po-Pobrought in three volumes of Smollett's novels, which had been foundin the chest of a sailor, who some time previous had died on theisland. 

Amelia!--Peregrine!--you hero of rogues, Count Fathom!--what a debt dowe owe you!

I know not whether it was the reading of these romances, or the wantof some sentimental pastime, which led the doctor, about this period, to lay siege to the heart of the little Loo. 

Now, as I have said before, the daughter of Po-Po was most cruellyreserved, and never deigned to notice us. Frequently I addressed herwith a long face and an air of the profoundest and most distantrespect--but in vain; she wouldn't even turn up her pretty olivenose. Ah! it's quite plain, thought I; she knows very well whatgraceless dogs sailors are, and won't have anything to do with us. 

But thus thought not my comrade. Bent he was upon firing the coldglitter of Loo's passionless eyes. 

He opened the campaign with admirable tact: making cautiousapproaches, and content, for three days, with ogling the nymph forabout five minutes after every meal. On the fourth day, he asked hera question; on the fifth, she dropped a nut of ointment, and hepicked it up and gave it to her; on the sixth, he went over and satdown within three yards of the couch where she lay; and, on thememorable morn of the seventh, he proceeded to open his batteries inform. 

The damsel was reclining on the ferns; one hand supporting her cheek, and the other listlessly turning over the leaves of a Tahitian Bible. The doctor approached. 

Now the chief disadvantage under which he laboured was his almostcomplete ignorance of the love vocabulary of the island. But Frenchcounts, they say, make love delightfully in broken English; and whathindered the doctor from doing the same in dulcet Tahitian. So at ithe went. 

"Ah!" said he, smiling bewitchingly, "oee mickonaree; oee readyBiblee?"

No answer; not even a look. 

"Ah I matai! very goody ready Biblee mickonaree. "

Loo, without stirring, began reading, in a low tone, to herself. 

"Mickonaree Biblee ready goody maitai, " once more observed the doctor, ingeniously transposing his words for the third time. 

But all to no purpose; Loo gave no sign. 

He paused, despairingly; but it would never do to give up; so he threwhimself at full length beside her, and audaciously commenced turningover the leaves. 

Loo gave a start, just one little start, barely perceptible, and then, fumbling something in her hand, lay perfectly motionless; the doctorrather frightened at his own temerity, and knowing not what to donext. At last, he placed one arm cautiously about her waist; almostin the same instant he bounded to his feet, with a cry; the littlewitch had pierced him with a thorn. But there she lay, just asquietly as ever, turning over the leaves, and reading to herself. 

My long friend raised the siege incontinently, and made a disorderlyretreat to the place where I reclined, looking on. 

I am pretty sure that Loo must have related this occurrence to herfather, who came in shortly afterward; for he looked queerly at thedoctor. But he said nothing; and, in ten minutes, was quite asaffable as ever. As for Loo, there was not the slightest change inher; and the doctor, of course, for ever afterwards held his peace. 

CHAPTER LXXVIII. 

MRS. BELL

ONE DAY, taking a pensive afternoon stroll along one of the manybridle-paths which wind among the shady groves in the neighbourhoodof Taloo, I was startled by a sunny apparition. It was that of abeautiful young Englishwoman, charmingly dressed, and mounted upon aspirited little white pony. Switching a green branch, she camecantering toward me. 

I looked round to see whether I could possibly be in Polynesia. Therewere the palm-trees; but how to account for the lady?

Stepping to one side as the apparition drew near, I made a politeobeisance. It gave me a bold, rosy look; and then, with a gay air, patted its palfrey, crying out, "Fly away, Willie!" and gallopedamong the trees. 

I would have followed; but Willie's heels were making such a patteringamong the dry leaves that pursuit would have been useless. 

So I went straight home to Po-Po's, and related my adventure to thedoctor. 

The next day, our inquiries resulted in finding out that the strangerhad been on the island about two years; that she came from Sydney;and was the wife of Mr. Bell (happy dog!), the proprietor of thesugar plantation to which I have previously referred. 

To the sugar plantation we went, the same day. 

The country round about was very beautiful: a level basin of verdure, surrounded by sloping hillsides. The sugar-cane--of which there wasabout one hundred acres, in various stages of cultivation--lookedthrifty. A considerable tract of land, however, which seemed to havebeen formerly tilled, was now abandoned. 

The place where they extracted the saccharine matter was under animmense shed of bamboos. Here we saw several clumsy pieces ofmachinery for breaking the cane; also great kettles for boiling thesugar. But, at present, nothing was going on. Two or three nativeswere lounging in one of the kettles, smoking; the other was occupiedby three sailors from the Leviathan, playing cards. 

While we were conversing with these worthies, a stranger approached. He was a sun-burnt, romantic-looking European, dressed in a loosesuit of nankeen; his fine throat and chest were exposed, and hesported a Guayaquil hat with a brim like a Chinese umbrella. This wasMr. Bell. He was very civil; showed us the grounds, and, taking usinto a sort of arbour, to our surprise, offered to treat us to somewine. People often do the like; but Mr. Bell did more: he producedthe bottle. It was spicy sherry; and we drank out of the halves offresh citron melons. Delectable goblets!

The wine was a purchase from, the French in Tahiti. 

Now all this was extremely polite in Mr. Bell; still, we came to seeMrs. Bell. But she proved to be a phantom, indeed; having left thesame morning for Papeetee, on a visit to one of the missionaries'wives there. 

I went home, much chagrined. 

To be frank, my curiosity had been wonderfully piqued concerning thelady. In the first place, she was the most beautiful white woman Iever saw in Polynesia. But this is saying nothing. She had such eyes, such moss-roses in her cheeks, such a divine air in the saddle, that, to my dying day, I shall never forget Mrs. Bell. 

The sugar-planter himself was young, robust, and handsome. So, merrilymay the little Bells increase, and multiply, and make music in theLand of Imeeo. 

CHAPTER LXXIX. 

TALOO CHAPEL--HOLDING COURT IN POLYNESIA

IN Partoowye is to be seen one of the best-constructed and handsomestchapels in the South Seas. Like the buildings of the palace, itstands upon an artificial pier, presenting a semicircular sweep tothe bay. The chapel is built of hewn blocks of coral; a substancewhich, although extremely friable, is said to harden by exposure tothe atmosphere. To a stranger, these blocks look extremely curious. Their surface is covered with strange fossil-like impressions, theseal of which must have been set before the flood. Very nearly whitewhen hewn from the reefs, the coral darkens with age; so that severalchurches in Polynesia now look almost as sooty and venerable as famedSt. Paul's. 

In shape, the chapel is an octagon, with galleries all round. It willseat, perhaps, four hundred people. Everything within is stained atawny red; and there being but few windows, or rather embrasures, thedusky benches and galleries, and the tall spectre of a pulpit lookanything but cheerful. 

On Sundays we always went to worship here. Going in the family suiteof Po-Po, we, of course, maintained a most decorous exterior; andhence, by all the elderly people of the village, were doubtlessregarded as pattern young men. 

Po-Po's seat was in a snug corner; and it being particularly snug, inthe immediate vicinity of one of the Palm pillars supporting thegallery, I invariably leaned against it: Po-Po and his lady on oneside, the doctor and the dandy on the other, and the children andpoor relations seated behind. 

As for Loo, instead of sitting (as she ought to have done) by her goodfather and mother, she must needs run up into the gallery, and sitwith a parcel of giddy creatures of her own age; who, all through thesermon, did nothing but look down on the congregation; pointing out, and giggling at the queer-looking old ladies in dowdy bonnets andscant tunics. But Loo, herself, was never guilty of theseimproprieties. 

Occasionally during the week they have afternoon service in thechapel, when the natives themselves have something to say; althoughtheir auditors are but few. An introductory prayer being offered bythe missionary, and a hymn sung, communicants rise in their places, and exhort in pure Tahitian, and with wonderful tone and gesture. And among them all, Deacon Po-Po, though he talked most, was the onewhom you would have liked best to hear. Much would I have given tohave understood some of his impassioned bursts; when he tossed hisarms overhead, stamped, scowled, and glared, till he looked like thevery Angel of Vengeance. 

"Deluded man!" sighed the doctor, on one of these occasions, "I fearhe takes the fanatical view of the subject. " One thing was certain:when Po-Po spoke, all listened; a great deal more than could be saidfor the rest; for under the discipline of two or three I couldmention, some of the audience napped; others fidgeted; a few yawned;and one irritable old gentleman, in a nightcap of cocoa-nut leaves, used to clutch his long staff in a state of excessive nervousness, and stride out of the church, making all the noise he could, toemphasize his disgust. 

Right adjoining the chapel is an immense, rickety building, withwindows and shutters, and a half-decayed board flooring laid upontrunks of palm-trees. They called it a school-house; but as such wenever saw it occupied. It was often used as a court-room, however;and here we attended several trials; among others, that of a decayednaval officer, and a young girl of fourteen; the latter charged withhaving been very naughty on a particular occasion set forth in thepleadings; and the former with having aided and abetted her in hernaughtiness, and with other misdemeanours. 

The foreigner was a tall, military-looking fellow, with a dark cheekand black whiskers. According to his own account, he had lost acolonial armed brig on the coast of New Zealand; and since then, hadbeen leading the life of a man about town among the islands of thePacific. 

The doctor wanted to know why he did not go home and report the lossof his brig; but Captain Crash, as they called him, had someincomprehensible reasons for not doing so, about which he could talkby the hour, and no one be any the wiser. Probably he was a discreetman, and thought it best to waive an interview with the lords of theadmiralty. 

For some time past, this extremely suspicious character had beencarrying on the illicit trade in French wines and brandies, smuggledover from the men-of-war lately touching at Tahiti. In a grove nearthe anchorage he had a rustic shanty and arbour, where, in quiettimes, when no ships were in Taloo, a stray native once in a whilegot boozy, and staggered home, catching at the cocoa-nut trees as hewent. The captain himself lounged under a tree during the warmafternoons, pipe in mouth; thinking, perhaps, over old times, andoccasionally feeling his shoulders for his lost epaulets. 

But, sail ho! a ship is descried coming into the bay. Soon she dropsher anchor in its waters; and the next day Captain Crash entertainsthe sailors in his grove. And rare times they have of it:--drinkingand quarrelling together as sociably as you please. 

Upon one of these occasions, the crew of the Leviathan made soprodigious a tumult that the natives, indignant at the insult offeredtheir laws, plucked up a heart, and made a dash at the rioters, onehundred strong. The sailors fought like tigers; but were at lastovercome, and carried before a native tribunal; which, after a mightyclamour, dismissed everybody but Captain Crash, who was asserted to bethe author of the disorders. 

Upon this charge, then, he had been placed in confinement against thecoming on of the assizes; the judge being expected to lounge along inthe course of the afternoon. While waiting his Honour's arrival, numerous additional offences were preferred against the culprit(mostly by the old women); among others was the bit of a slip inwhich he stood implicated along with the young lady. Thus, inPolynesia as elsewhere;--charge a man with one misdemeanour, and allhis peccadilloes are raked up and assorted before him. 

Going to the school-house for the purpose of witnessing the trial, thedin of it assailed our ears a long way off; and upon entering thebuilding, we were almost stunned. About five hundred natives werepresent; each apparently having something to say and determined tosay it. His Honour--a handsome, benevolent-looking old man--satcross-legged on a little platform, seemingly resigned, with allChristian submission, to the uproar. He was an hereditary chief inthis quarter of the island, and judge for life in the district ofPartoowye. 

There were several cases coming on; but the captain and girl werefirst tried together. They were mixing freely with the crowd; and asit afterwards turned out that everyone--no matter who--had a right toaddress the court, for aught we knew they might have been arguingtheir own case. At what precise moment the trial began it would behard to say. There was no swearing of witnesses, and no regular jury. Now and then somebody leaped up and shouted out something which mighthave been evidence; the rest, meanwhile, keeping up an incessantjabbering. Presently the old judge himself began to get excited; andspringing to his feet, ran in among the crowd, wagging his tongue ashard as anybody. 

The tumult lasted about twenty minutes; and toward the end of it, Captain Crash might have been seen, tranquilly regarding, from hisHonour's platform, the judicial uproar, in which his fate was aboutbeing decided. 

The result of all this was that both he and the girl were foundguilty. The latter was adjudged to make six mats for the queen; andthe former, in consideration of his manifold offences, being deemedincorrigible, was sentenced to eternal banishment from the island. Both these decrees seemed to originate in the general hubbub. HisHonour, however, appeared to have considerable authority, and it wasquite plain that the decision received his approval. 

The above penalties were by no means indiscriminately inflicted. Themissionaries have prepared a sort of penal tariff to facilitatejudicial proceedings. It costs so many days' labour on the Broom Roadto indulge in the pleasures of the calabash; so many fathoms of stonewall to steal a musket; and so on to the end of the catalogue. Thejudge being provided with a book in which all these matters arecunningly arranged, the thing is vastly convenient. For instance: acrime is proved, --say bigamy; turn to letter B--and there you haveit. Bigamy:--forty days on the Broom Road, and twenty mats for thequeen. Read the passage aloud, and sentence is pronounced. 

After taking part in the first trial, the other delinquents presentwere put upon their own; in which, also, the convicted culpritsseemed to have quite as much to say as the rest. A rather strangeproceeding; but strictly in accordance with the glorious Englishprinciple, that every man should be tried by his peers. They were allfound guilty. 

CHAPTER LXXX. 

QUEEN POMAREE

IT is well to learn something about people before being introduced tothem, and so we will here give some account of Pomaree and herfamily. 

Every reader of Cook's Voyages must remember "Otto, " who, in thatnavigator's time, was king of the larger peninsula of Tahiti. Subsequently, assisted by the muskets of the Bounty's men, heextended his rule over the entire island. This Otto, before hisdeath, had his name changed into Pomaree, which has ever since beenthe royal patronymic. 

He was succeeded by his son, Pomaree II. , the most famous prince inthe annals of Tahiti. Though a sad debauchee and drunkard, and evencharged with unnatural crimes, he was a great friend of themissionaries, and one of their very first proselytes. During thereligious wars into which he was hurried by his zeal for the newfaith, he was defeated and expelled from the island. After a shortexile he returned from Imeeo, with an army of eight hundred warriors, and in the battle of Narii routed the rebellious pagans with greatslaughter, and reestablished himself upon the throne. Thus, by forceof arms, was Christianity finally triumphant in Tahiti. 

Pomaree II. , dying in 1821, was succeeded by his infant son, under thetitle of Pomaree III. This young prince survived his father but sixyears; and the government then descended to his elder sister, Aimata, the present queen, who is commonly called Pomaree Vahinee I. , or thefirst female Pomaree. Her majesty must be now upwards of thirty yearsof age. She has been twice married. Her first husband was a son ofthe old King of Tahar, an island about one hundred miles from Tahiti. This proving an unhappy alliance, the pair were soon afterwardsdivorced. The present husband of the queen is a chief of Imeeo. 

The reputation of Pomaree is not what it ought to be. She, and alsoher mother, were, for a long time, excommunicated members of theChurch; and the former, I believe, still is. Among other things, herconjugal fidelity is far from being unquestioned. Indeed, it was uponthis ground chiefly that she was excluded from the communion of theChurch. 

Previous to her misfortunes she spent the greater portion of her timesailing about from one island to another, attended by a licentiouscourt; and wherever she went all manner of games and festivitiescelebrated her arrival. 

She was always given to display. For several years the maintenance ofa regiment of household troops drew largely upon the royal exchequer. They were trouserless fellows, in a uniform of calico shirts andpasteboard hats; armed with muskets of all shapes and calibres, andcommanded by a great noisy chief, strutting it in a coat of fieryred. These heroes escorted their mistress whenever she went abroad. 

Some time ago, the queen received from her English sister, Victoria, avery showy, though uneasy, head-dress--a crown; probably made toorder at some tinman's in London. Having no idea of reserving sopretty a bauble for coronation days, which come so seldom, hermajesty sported it whenever she appeared in public; and, to show herfamiliarity with European customs, politely touched it to allforeigners of distinction--whaling captains, and the like--whom shehappened to meet in her evening walk on the Broom Road. 

The arrival and departure of royalty were always announced at thepalace by the court artilleryman--a fat old gentleman who, in aprodigious hurry and perspiration, discharged minute fowling-piecesas fast as he could load and fire the same. 

The Tahitian princess leads her husband a hard life. Poor fellow! henot only caught a queen, but a Tartar, when he married her. The styleby which he is addressed is rather significant--"Pomaree-Tanee"(Pomaree's man). All things considered, as appropriate a title for aking-consort as could be hit upon. 

If ever there were a henpecked husband, that man is the prince. Oneday, his carasposa giving audience to a deputation from the captainsof the vessels lying in Papeetee, he ventured to make a suggestionwhich was very displeasing to her. She turned round and, boxing hisears, told him to go over to his beggarly island of Imeeo if hewanted to give himself airs. 

Cuffed and contemned, poor Tanee flies to the bottle, or rather to thecalabash, for solace. Like his wife and mistress, he drinks more thanhe ought. 

Six or seven years ago, when an American man-of-war was lying atPapeetee, the town was thrown into the greatest commotion by aconjugal assault and battery made upon the sacred person of Pomareeby her intoxicated Tanee. 

Captain Bob once told me the story. And by way of throwing more spiritinto the description, as well as to make up for his oraldeficiencies, the old man went through the accompanying action:myself being proxy for the Queen of Tahiti. 

It seems that, on a Sunday morning, being dismissed contemptuouslyfrom the royal presence, Tanee was accosted by certain good fellows, friends and boon companions, who condoled with him on hismisfortunes--railed against the queen, and finally dragged him awayto an illicit vendor of spirits, in whose house the party gotgloriously mellow. In this state, Pomaree Vahinee I. Was the topicupon which all dilated--"A vixen of a queen, " probably suggested one. "It's infamous, " said another; "and I'd have satisfaction, " cried athird. "And so I will!"--Tanee must have hiccoughed; for off he went;and ascertaining that his royal half was out riding, he mounted hishorse and galloped after her. 

Near the outskirts of the town, a cavalcade of women came canteringtoward him, in the centre of which was the object of his fury. Smiting his beast right and left, he dashed in among them, completelyoverturning one of the party, leaving her on the field, anddispersing everybody else except Pomaree. Backing her horsedexterously, the incensed queen heaped upon him every scandalousepithet she could think of; until at last the enraged Tanee leapedout of his saddle, caught Pomaree by her dress, and dragging her tothe earth struck her repeatedly in the face, holding on meanwhile bythe hair of her head. He was proceeding to strangle her on the spot, when the cries of the frightened attendants brought a crowd of nativesto the rescue, who bore the nearly insensible queen away. 

But his frantic rage was not yet sated. He ran to the palace; andbefore it could be prevented, demolished a valuable supply ofcrockery, a recent present from abroad. In the act of perpetratingsome other atrocity, he was seized from behind, and carried off withrolling eyes and foaming at the mouth. 

This is a fair example of a Tahitian in a passion. Though the mildestof mortals in general, and hard to be roused, when once fairly up, heis possessed with a thousand devils. 

The day following, Tanee was privately paddled over to Imeeo in acanoe; where, after remaining in banishment for a couple of weeks, hewas allowed to return, and once more give in his domestic adhesion. 

Though Pomaree Vahinee I. Be something of a Jezebel in private life, in her public rule she is said to have been quite lenient andforbearing. This was her true policy; for an hereditary hostility toher family had always lurked in the hearts of many powerful chiefs, the descendants of the old Kings of Taiarboo, dethroned by hergrandfather Otoo. Chief among these, and in fact the leader of hisparty, was Poofai; a bold, able man, who made no secret of his enmityto the missionaries, and the government which they controlled. Butwhile events were occurring calculated to favour the hopes of thedisaffected and turbulent, the arrival of the French gave a mostunexpected turn to affairs. 

During my sojourn in Tahiti, a report was rife--which I knew tooriginate with what is generally called the "missionary party"--thatPoofai and some other chiefs of note had actually agreed, for astipulated bribe, to acquiesce in the appropriation of their country. But subsequent events have rebutted the calumny. Several of thesevery men have recently died in battle against the French. 

Under the sovereignty of the Pomarees, the great chiefs of Tahiti weresomething like the barons of King John. Holding feudal sway overtheir patrimonial valleys, and on account of their descent, warmlybeloved by the people, they frequently cut off the royal revenues byrefusing to pay the customary tribute due from them as vassals. 

The truth is, that with the ascendancy of the missionaries, the regaloffice in Tahiti lost much of its dignity and influence. In the daysof Paganism, it was supported by all the power of a numerouspriesthood, and was solemnly connected with the entire superstitiousidolatry of the land. The monarch claimed to be a sort of bye-blow ofTararroa, the Saturn of the Polynesian mythology, and cousin-german toinferior deities. His person was thrice holy; if he entered anordinary dwelling, never mind for how short a time, it was demolishedwhen he left; no common mortal being thought worthy to inhabit itafterward. 

"I'm a greater man than King George, " said the incorrigible young Otooto the first missionaries; "he rides on a horse, and I on a man. "Such was the case. He travelled post through his dominions on theshoulders of his subjects; and relays of mortal beings were providedin all the valleys. 

But alas! how times have changed; how transient human greatness. Someyears since, Pomaree Vahinee I. , the granddaughter of the proud Otoo, went into the laundry business; publicly soliciting, by her agents, the washing of the linen belonging to the officers of ships touchingin her harbours. 

It is a significant fact, and one worthy of record, that while theinfluence of the English missionaries at Tahiti has tended to sogreat a diminution of the regal dignity there, that of the Americanmissionaries at the Sandwich Islands has been purposely exerted tobring about a contrary result. 

CHAPTER LXXXI. 

WE VISIT THE COURT

IT WAS about the middle of the second month of the Hegira, andtherefore some five weeks after our arrival in Partoowye, that we atlast obtained admittance to the residence of the queen. 

It happened thus. There was a Marquesan in the train of Pomaree whoofficiated as nurse to her children. According to the Tahitiancustom, the royal youngsters are carried about until it requires nosmall degree of strength to stand up under them. But Marbonna wasjust the man for this--large and muscular, well made as a statue, andwith an arm like a degenerate Tahitian's thigh. 

Embarking at his native island as a sailor on board of a Frenchwhaler, he afterward ran away from the ship at Tahiti; where, beingseen and admired by Pomaree, he had been prevailed upon to enlist inher service. 

Often, when visiting the grounds, we saw him walking about in theshade, carrying two handsome boys, who encircled his neck with theirarms. Marbonna's face, tattooed as it was in the ornate style of histribe, was as good as a picture-book to these young Pomarees. Theydelighted to trace with their fingers the outlines of the strangeshapes there delineated. 

The first time my eyes lighted upon the Marquesan, I knew his countryin a moment; and hailing him in his own language, he turned round, surprised that a person so speaking should be a stranger. He provedto be a native of Tior, a glen of Nukuheva. I had visited the placemore than once; and so, on the island of Imeeo, we met like oldfriends. 

In my frequent conversations with him over the bamboo picket, I foundthis islander a philosopher of nature--a wild heathen, moralizingupon the vices and follies of the Christian court of Tahiti--asavage, scorning the degeneracy of the people among whom fortune hadthrown him. 

I was amazed at the national feelings of the man. No European, whenabroad, could speak of his country with more pride than Marbonna. Heassured me, again and again, that so soon as he had obtainedsufficient money to purchase twenty muskets, and as many bags ofpowder, he was going to return to a place with which Imeeo was notworthy to be compared. 

It was Marbonna who, after one or two unsuccessful attempts, at lastbrought about our admission into the queen's grounds. Through aconsiderable crowd he conducted us along the pier to where an old manwas sitting, to whom he introduced us as a couple of "karhowrees" ofhis acquaintance, anxious to see the sights of the palace. Thevenerable chamberlain stared at us, and shook his head: the doctor, thinking he wanted a fee, placed a plug of tobacco in his hand. Thiswas ingratiating, and we were permitted to pass on. Upon the point ofentering one of the houses, Marbonna's name was shouted inhalf-a-dozen different directions, and he was obliged to withdraw. 

Thus left at the very threshold to shift for ourselves, my companion'sassurance stood us in good stead. He stalked right in, and Ifollowed. The place was full of women, who, instead of exhibiting thesurprise we expected, accosted us as cordially as if we had called totake our Souchong with them by express invitation. In the firstplace, nothing would do but we must each devour a calabash of "poee, "and several roasted bananas. Pipes were then lighted, and a briskconversation ensued. 

These ladies of the court, if not very polished, were surprisinglyfree and easy in their manners; quite as much so as King Charles'sbeauties. There was one of them--an arch little miss, who couldconverse with us pretty fluently--to whom we strove to make ourselvesparticularly agreeable, with the view of engaging her services ascicerone. 

As such, she turned out to be everything we could desire. No onedisputing her will, every place was entered without ceremony, curtains brushed aside, mats lifted, and each nook and cornerexplored. Whether the little damsel carried her mistress' signet, that everything opened to her thus, I know not; but Marbonna himself, the bearer of infants, could not have been half so serviceable. 

Among other houses which we visited, was one of large size and fineexterior; the special residence of a European--formerly the mate of amerchant vessel, --who had done himself the honour of marrying intothe Pomaree family. The lady he wedded being a near kinswoman of thequeen, he became a permanent member of her majesty's household. Thisadventurer rose late, dressed theatrically in calico and trinkets, assumed a dictatorial tone in conversation, and was evidently uponexcellent terms with himself. 

We found him reclining on a mat, smoking a reed-pipe of tobacco, inthe midst of an admiring circle of chiefs and ladies. He must havenoticed our approach; but instead of rising and offering civilities, he went on talking and smoking, without even condescending to look atus. 

"His Highness feels his 'poee, '" carelessly observed the doctor. Therest of the company gave us the ordinary salutation, our guideannouncing us beforehand. 

In answer to our earnest requests to see the queen, we were nowconducted to an edifice, by far the most spacious, in the inclosure. It was at least one hundred and fifty feet in length, very wide, withlow eaves, and an exceedingly steep roof of pandannas leaves. Therewere neither doors nor windows--nothing along the sides but theslight posts supporting the rafters. Between these posts, curtains offine matting and tappa were rustling, all round; some of them werefestooned, or partly withdrawn, so as to admit light and air, andafford a glimpse now and then of what was going on within. 

Pushing aside one of the screens, we entered. The apartment was oneimmense hall; the long and lofty ridge-pole fluttering with fringedmatting and tassels, full forty feet from the ground. Lounges ofmats, piled one upon another, extended on either side: while hereand there were slight screens, forming as many recesses, where groupsof natives--all females--were reclining at their evening meal. 

As we advanced, these various parties ceased their buzzing, and inexplanation of our appearance among them, listened to a fewcabalistic words from our guide. 

The whole scene was a strange one; but what most excited our surprisewas the incongruous assemblage of the most costly objects from allquarters of the globe. Cheek by jowl, they lay beside the rudestnative articles, without the slightest attempt at order. Superbwriting-desks of rosewood, inlaid with silver and mother-of-pearl;decanters and goblets of cut glass; embossed volumes of plates; gildedcandelabra; sets of globes and mathematical instruments; the finestporcelain; richly-mounted sabres and fowling-pieces; laced hats andsumptuous garments of all sorts, with numerous other matters ofEuropean manufacture, were strewn about among greasy calabasheshalf-filled with "poee, " rolls of old tappa and matting, paddles andfish-spears, and the ordinary furniture of a Tahitian dwelling. 

All the articles first mentioned were, doubtless, presents fromforeign powers. They were more or less injured: the fowling-piecesand swords were rusted; the finest woods were scratched; and a foliovolume of Hogarth lay open, with a cocoa-nut shell of some mustypreparation capsized among the miscellaneous furniture of the Rake'sapartment, where that inconsiderate young gentleman is being measuredfor a coat. 

While we were amusing ourselves in this museum of curiosities, ourconductor plucked us by the sleeve, and whispered, "Pomaree! Pomaree!armai kow kow. "

"She is coming to sup, then, " said the doctor, staring in thedirection indicated. "What say you, Paul, suppose we step up?" Justthen a curtain near by lifted, and from a private building a fewyards distant the queen entered, unattended. 

She wore a loose gown of blue silk, with two rich shawls, one red andthe other yellow, tied about her neck. Her royal majesty wasbarefooted. 

She was about the ordinary size, rather matronly; her features notvery handsome; her mouth, voluptuous; but there was a care-wornexpression in her face, probably attributable to her latemisfortunes. From her appearance, one would judge her about forty;but she is not so old. 

As the queen approached one of the recesses, her attendants hurriedup, escorted her in, and smoothed the mats on which she at lastreclined. Two girls soon appeared, carrying their mistress' repast;and then, surrounded by cut-glass and porcelain, and jars ofsweetmeats and confections, Pomaree Vahinee I. , the titular Queen ofTahiti, ate fish and "poee" out of her native calabashes, disdainingeither knife or spoon. 

"Come on, " whispered Long Ghost, "let's have an audience at once;" andhe was on the point of introducing himself, when our guide, quitealarmed, held him back and implored silence. The other natives alsointerfered, and, as he was pressing forward, raised such an outcrythat Pomaree lifted her eyes and saw us for the first. 

She seemed surprised and offended, and, issuing an order in acommanding tone to several of her women, waved us out of the house. Summary as the dismissal was, court etiquette, no doubt, required ourcompliance. We withdrew; making a profound inclination as wedisappeared behind the tappa arras. 

We departed the ground without seeing Marbonna; and previous tovaulting over the picket, feed our pretty guide after a fashion ofour own. Looking round a few moments after, we saw the damselescorted back by two men, who seemed to have been sent after her. Itrust she received nothing more than a reprimand. 

The next day Po-Po informed us that strict orders had been issued toadmit no strangers within the palace precincts. 

CHAPTER LXXXII. 

WHICH ENDS THE BOOK

DISAPPOINTED in going to court, we determined upon going to sea. Itwould never do, longer to trespass on Po-Po's hospitality; and then, weary somewhat of life in Imeeo, like all sailors ashore, I at lastpined for the billows. 

Now, if her crew were to be credited, the Leviathan was not the craftto our mind. But I had seen the captain, and liked him. He was anuncommonly tall, robust, fine-looking man, in the prime of life. There was a deep crimson spot in the middle of each sunburnt cheek, doubtless the effect of his sea-potations. He was a Vineyarder, ornative of the island of Martha's Vineyard (adjoining Nantucket), and--I would have sworn it--a sailor, and no tyrant. 

Previous to this, we had rather avoided the Leviathan's men, when theycame ashore; but now, we purposely threw ourselves in their way, inorder to learn more of the vessel. 

We became acquainted with the third mate, a Prussian, and an oldmerchant-seaman--a right jolly fellow, with a face like a ruby. Wetook him to Po-Po's, and gave him a dinner of baked pig andbreadfruit; with pipes and tobacco for dessert. The account he gaveus of the ship agreed with my own surmises. A cosier old craft neverfloated; and the captain was the finest man in the world. There wasplenty to eat, too; and, at sea, nothing to do but sit on the windlassand sail. The only bad trait about the vessel was this: she had beenlaunched under some baleful star; and so was a luckless ship in thefishery. She dropped her boats into the brine often enough, and theyfrequently got fast to the whales; but lance and harpoon almostinvariably "drew" when darted by the men of the Leviathan. But what ofthat? We would have all the sport of chasing the monsters, with noneof the detestable work which follows their capture. So, hurrah forthe coast of Japan! Thither the ship was bound. 

A word now about the hard stories we heard the first time we visitedthe ship. They were nothing but idle fictions, got up by the sailorsfor the purpose of frightening us away, so as to oblige the captain, who was in want of more hands, to lie the longer in a pleasantharbour. 

The next time the Vineyarder came ashore, we flung ourselves in hispath. When informed of our desire to sail with him, he wanted to knowour history; and, above all, what countrymen we were. We said that wehad left a whaler in Tahiti, some time previous; and, since then, hadbeen--in the most praiseworthy manner--employed upon a plantation. Asfor our country, sailors belong to no nation in particular; we were, on this occasion, both Yankees. Upon this he looked decidedlyincredulous; and freely told us that he verily believed we were bothfrom Sydney. 

Be it known here that American sea captains, in the Pacific, aremortally afraid of these Sydney gentry; who, to tell the truth, wherever known, are in excessively bad odour. Is there a mutiny onboard a ship in the South Seas, ten to one a Sydney man is theringleader. Ashore, these fellows are equally riotous. 

It was on this account that we were anxious to conceal the fact of ourhaving belonged to the Julia, though it annoyed me much, thus to denythe dashing little craft. For the same reason, also, the doctorfibbed about his birthplace. 

Unfortunately, one part of our raiment--Arfretee's blue frocks--wedeemed a sort of collateral evidence against us. For, curiouslyenough, an American sailor is generally distinguished by his redfrock; and an English tar by his blue one: thus reversing thenational colours. The circumstance was pointed out by the captain; andwe quickly explained the anomaly. But, in vain: he seemedinveterately prejudiced against us; and, in particular, eyed thedoctor most distrustfully. 

By way of propping the tatter's pretensions, I was throwing out a hintconcerning Kentucky, as a land of tall men, when our Vine-yarderturned away abruptly, and desired to hear nothing more. It wasevident that he took Long Ghost for an exceedingly problematicalcharacter. 

Perceiving this, I resolved to see what a private interview would do. So, one afternoon, I found the captain smoking a pipe in the dwellingof a portly old native--one Mai-Mai--who, for a reasonablecompensation, did the honours of Partoowye to illustrious strangers. 

His guest had just risen from a sumptuous meal of baked pig and taropudding; and the remnants of the repast were still visible. Tworeeking bottles, also, with their necks wrenched off, lay upon themat. All this was encouraging; for, after a good dinner, one feelsaffluent and amiable, and peculiarly open to conviction. So, at allevents, I found the noble Vineyarder. 

I began by saying that I called for the purpose of setting him righttouching certain opinions of his concerning the place of mynativity:--I was an American--thank heaven!--and wanted to convincehim of the fact. 

After looking me in the eye for some time, and, by so doing, revealingan obvious unsteadiness in his own visual organs, he begged me toreach forth my arm. I did so; wondering what upon earth that usefulmember had to do with the matter in hand. 

He placed his fingers upon my wrist; and holding them there for amoment, sprang to his feet, and, with much enthusiasm, pronounced mea Yankee, every beat of my pulse!

"Here, Mai-Mai!" he cried, "another bottle!" And, when it came, withone stroke of a knife, he summarily beheaded it, and commanded me todrain it to the bottom. He then told me that if I would come on boardhis vessel the following morning, I would find the ship's articles onthe cabin transom. 

This was getting along famously. But what was to become of thedoctor?

I forthwith made an adroit allusion to my long friend. But it wasworse than useless. The Vineyarder swore he would have nothing to dowith him--he (my long friend) was a "bird" from Sydney, and nothingwould make him (the man of little faith) believe otherwise. 

I could not help loving the free-hearted captain; but indignant atthis most unaccountable prejudice against my comrade, I abruptly tookleave. 

Upon informing the doctor of the result of the interview, he wasgreatly amused; and laughingly declared that the Vineyarder must be apenetrating fellow. He then insisted upon my going to sea in theship, since he well knew how anxious I was to leave. As for himself, on second thoughts, he was no sailor; and although "lands--' men"very often compose part of a whaler's crew, he did not quite relishthe idea of occupying a position so humble. In short, he had made uphis mind to tarry awhile in Imeeo. 

I turned the matter over: and at last decided upon quitting theisland. The impulse urging me to sea once more, and the prospect ofeventually reaching home, were too much to be resisted; especially asthe Leviathan, so comfortable a craft, was now bound on her lastwhaling cruise, and, in little more than a year's time, would begoing round Cape Horn. 

I did not, however, covenant to remain in the vessel for the residueof the voyage; which would have been needlessly binding myself. Imerely stipulated for the coming cruise, leaving my subsequentmovements unrestrained; for there was no knowing that I might notchange my mind, and prefer journeying home by short and easy stages. 

The next day I paddled off to the ship, signed and sealed, and steppedashore with my "advance"--fifteen Spanish dollars--tasseling the endsof my neck-handkerchief. 

I forced half of the silver on Long Ghost; and having little use forthe remainder, would have given it to Po-Po as some small return forhis kindness; but, although he well knew the value of the coin, not adollar would he accept. 

In three days' time the Prussian came to Po-Po's, and told us that thecaptain, having made good the number of his crew by shipping severalislanders, had determined upon sailing with the land breeze at dawnthe following morning. These tidings were received in the afternoon. The doctor immediately disappeared, returning soon after with acouple of flasks of wine concealed in the folds of his frock. Throughthe agency of the Marquesan, he had purchased them from anunderstrapper of the court. 

I prevailed upon Po-Po to drink a parting shell; and even little Loo, actually looking conscious that one of her hopeless admirers wasabout leaving Partoowye for ever, sipped a few drops from a foldedleaf. As for the warm-hearted Arfretee, her grief was unbounded. Sheeven besought me to spend my last night under her own palm-thatch;and then, in the morning, she would herself paddle me off to theship. 

But this I would not consent to; and so, as something to remember herby, she presented me with a roll of fine matting, and another oftappa. These gifts placed in my hammock, I afterward found veryagreeable in the warm latitudes to which we were bound; nor did theyfail to awaken most grateful remembrances. 

About nightfall, we broke away from this generous-hearted household, and hurried down to the water. 

It was a mad, merry night among the sailors; they had on tap a smallcask of wine, procured in the same way as the doctor's flasks. 

An hour or two after midnight, everything was noiseless; but when thefirst streak of the dawn showed itself over the mountains, a sharpvoice hailed the forecastle, and ordered the ship unmoored. 

The anchors came up cheerily; the sails were soon set; and with theearly breath of the tropical morning, fresh and fragrant from thehillsides, we slowly glided down the bay, and were swept through theopening in the reef. Presently we "hove to, " and the canoes camealongside to take off the islanders who had accompanied us thus far. As he stepped over the side, I shook the doctor long and heartily bythe hand. I have never seen or heard of him since. 

Crowding all sail, we braced the yards square; and, the breezefreshening, bowled straight away from the land. Once more thesailor's cradle rocked under me, and I found myself rolling in mygait. 

By noon, the island had gone down in the horizon; and all before uswas the wide Pacific.