[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & otherNATIVES]

 OBSERVATIONS UPON THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA, THE RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c. OF THE NATIVES; WITH A SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED, AND A KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE; AND UPON THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY; MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. 

 BY JOSEPH CORRY. 

 WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE. 

 LONDON:PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL; AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL. BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S 1807. 

 TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH, ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS. 

 MY LORD, Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting meto inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my mostunfeigned thanks. 

If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning Public;or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more intelligentefforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the unenlightened African, or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom with a Country, now indanger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I shall feel an amplereward for the risques and dangers to which I have been exposed incollecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the opportunity ofsubscribing myself, With grateful acknowledgments, Your Lordship's Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant, JOSEPH CORRY, PREFACE. 

With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the followingpages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa, and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle ofChiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. And attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the conditionof the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations bepreserved with that important quarter of the globe. 

Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my ownincompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by thisreflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of myCountry, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectualmanumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitiousidolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers. 

I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; andif in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen inbehalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle ofcivilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neithertravelled, nor written in vain. 

Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who havevisited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbedin the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller inthat country has to contend with the combined influence of the nativejealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinateferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount thesedifficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs andNatives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with theInterior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured withinformation from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative totheir customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existingstate of society. 

The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigationoccasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different fromthose excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that themind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and onthe mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce beessentially enlarged. 

Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hithertostrangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals andbenevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse theinfluence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of sciencethroughout these extensive regions. 

Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and toextend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity ofanimadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation. 

 J. CORRY. _September 1st, 1807_. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival atSierra Leone--Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage--its Bearings andDistance--Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c. 

CHAPTER II. 

The Author leaves Bance Island. --Visits the Colony of SierraLeone. --Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, fromwhom he experiences a most hospitable Reception. --Cursory Remarks upon thatColony, and upon the Islands of Banana. --His Embarkation for the Island ofGoree, &c. 

CHAPTER III. 

An Excursion to the main Land. --Visit to King Marraboo. --Anecdotes of thisChief. --Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton. --A shooting Party, acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs. --Reflectionsupon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, relative to this Part ofthe Coast. --Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War the Eugenia, whichconvoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on hislate Mission to the Interior of Africa. --Observations on thatSubject. --Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago. --SomeRemarks upon that Island. --Departure from thence to England, and safeArrival at Portsmouth

CHAPTER IV. 

The Author proceeds to London. --Re-embarks for Africa. --Arrives atMadeira. --Observations on that Island. --Prosecution of the Voyage, andArrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c. 

CHAPTER V. 

Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone. --TheAuthor explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, andthe Port Logo. --The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants. --TheirCommerce. --The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare

CHAPTER VI. 

Return to Bance Island. --General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast. --An Accountof the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducingnatural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c. 

CHAPTER VII. 

The Mode of Trial by _Ordeal_ and _Red Water_ in Africa. --The Wars of itsInhabitants. --The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered. --The Conditionof the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, withoutfurther Interference. --Salutary Measures must be adopted towards theNegroes in the Colonies. --A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers ofits Inhabitants. --The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interiorof Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources

CHAPTER VIII. 

What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to makeeffectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas. --Reasons forsubjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration. --TheSituations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c. 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva. --Proceeds to the RioPongo. --Disquisitions thereon. --Further Observations on the Inhabitants, obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there. --The Isles deLoss. --Returns to Sierra Leone, &c. 

CHAPTER X. 

The Author visits the Isles de Loss. --Remarks on those Islands. --Touches atthe River Scarcies. --Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone. --Embarks forthe West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerary. --Some Observations on theProductions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importanceof Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial View

CHAPTER XI. 

Conclusion

APPENDIX. 

No. I. 

Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's lateprincipal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of hisLordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of theSlave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode ofgradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicatingSlavery

No. II. 

Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick

No. III. 

Of the Purrah

Of the _Termite_, _Termes_, or _Bug a Bug_, as it is called by the Nativesupon the Windward Coast of Africa

Of the Camelion

On the Interment of the Dead

On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. Of the Africans

Concluding Observations

Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward Coastof Africa

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 

Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, toface the Title Page. 

Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1

Palma

The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana

Island of Goree

Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago

Island of Fogo, Cape Verd

Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd

Bance Island, River Sierra Leone

In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the Readerto explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the_Mandingo Chief_; and that the Cap, which adorns the _Head Man_, isembroidered by _themselves_ on scarlet cloth procured from Europeans intrade, and is executed with great ingenuity. 

The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering whichadorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in thestate of virginity. 

This distinguishing mark of _virgin purity_ is uniformly removed uponentering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees_Tintanjey_. 

In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correctrepresentation of the _Pullam_ tree, described in page 38, as bearing aspecies of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the natives, who consider it in many instances as their _Fetish_. 

* * * * *

ERRATA. 

 Page 54, line 8, for _gallunas_ read _galhinas_. 62 2, for _is derived from the African gris-gris_, read, _is the expression from which the African gris-gris is_ _derived_. 64 20, for _lugras_, read _lugars_. 92 6, for _bungra_, read _bangra_. 

[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA]

 OBSERVATIONS UPON THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. 

CHAPTER I. 

_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival atSierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Passage--its Bearingsand Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra LeoneRiver, &c. _

Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th ofApril, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I havetaken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for theobservation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to theAtlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast ofAfrica to-windward. [1]

On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to theEast Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had afavourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we neverafterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, toproceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa. 

Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, untilthe high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th ofApril. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the nextmorning, steering our course for the river. 

The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape SierraLeone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; beingin latitude 8° 30" N. And in 13° 43" W. Long. And is computed about sevengeographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into theocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with imperviousforests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of anextended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented withfoliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration inthose who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of thecreation never fail to inspire. 

Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks anassemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, andthe masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling withgreat dexterity in their canoes. 

[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. By W. Distant about 8 leagues from APublished Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bayin a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at presententer into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as aposition from whence active enterprize may perform its operationsthroughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages. 

At two. P. M. Came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of BanceIsland, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to thisisland for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on thebranches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by theisland of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called TassoPoint; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even anelegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windwardcoast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countriesbordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of therivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. And those which fallinto the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas. 

Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of someextent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island;bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing anytropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied tointroduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African theadvantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; whileunder a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possessionof very considerable consequence in an agricultural view. 

Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters ofa mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door orgate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. Theexpectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessenedby a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled severaltraders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of theircuriosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _giveme service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony issimply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminylanguage by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The replyto this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service. 

The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, inhouses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or acircle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or otherthatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming acanopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency ofthe weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extremeheat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon theirmats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from theblack chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may beestimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors ofthis island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowedwith certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state ofslavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convictedby the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency. 

Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. Smiths, carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. Under the superintendance of Europeans intheir different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in theirrespective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of theconnoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover agenius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress andmanners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is thenever failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized societyover barbarous customs and habits. 

[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singularphenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow. ]

CHAPTER II. 

_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of SierraLeone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whomhe experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon thatColony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island ofGoree, &c. _

From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and havingdetermined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by thefirst conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under thegovernment of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I hada recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with hisgeneral character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; andsuch were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties ofhis station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain thehighest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans ofdefence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, fromsubsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period haveopposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have beenspeedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, and want of unanimity had occasioned. 

The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. Avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose ofaugmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among thenatives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continuefor the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of onetwo-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven oreight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and inthe morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the resultof which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many housesburnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by twoAmericans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to thecolony by this attack has been estimated at about 40, 000_l_. Independant ofbuildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15, 000_l_. More. BanceIsland experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of20, 000_l_. 

In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament theinefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and variousother disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment thecharge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with everydeference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highestapprobation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewiseto regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which sobeneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at afuture stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minuteinvestigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall forthe present dismiss it. 

On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war theLark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river forGovernor Day's dispatches, &c. ; and I cannot omit this opportunity ofexpressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, thecommander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being onboard. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during ourpassage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricanewhich prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of theyear, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey bydescription an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. Itannounces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, whichwith incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes theaffrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. Exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloudappears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away rightbefore the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendousviolence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity. 

To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees northlatitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. Tothe west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little morethan barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and theclimate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshingbreezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit sodenominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil andsituation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. Atpresent the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, ofconsiderable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathershaving been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; andby intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. JamesCleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by hisGrummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle;and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruelmanner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continuedever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to therespective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and wassucceeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education inEngland, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of theBannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. 

[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S. W. By E. Distant 3MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S. W. By W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 11807 by G & W Nicol]

Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure thesevaluable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots toany establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their beingunattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both underCaulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse withthis chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acuteintellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies couldbe allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence andco-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter. 

On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchornearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point deNore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible positionin the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, between the island and the main land. 

Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters ofa mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its nativeinhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whomthey still retain a great predilection. The number of what are calledprincipal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequentlybetween three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion ofdead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia. 

Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among them;although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into theisland, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governingprinciple of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, andthe indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is toooffensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate:it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond beingbroken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favourof any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "bigdinner, " in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, firstobtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When thehappy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and theirrespective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, sendforth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarousmusic, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their songof triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during thenight, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair. 

The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, ingrand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during hervirgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, inconsequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They areimmediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visither circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected tocontribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concludingone on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued bythe attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat ordrink. 

[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of Goreeis far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is ofconsiderable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention ofGovernment, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with thecoast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in anextremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroonprivateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which itdepends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostileoperations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In acommercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment;from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a largeportion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; fromwhence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and acheck may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallyingpoint for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon thecoast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being veryunimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of thatinfinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of naturalproductions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; onlyrequiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and unfold. 

The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend it, of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;[1] and this forceis very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; ingeneral, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department issuperintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerableintelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished byliberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of threeweeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate ofMr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship andkind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind. 

The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being ofstone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculatedto raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerablylessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error. ]upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of thenatives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants aregoverned in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and hisadvisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of thegarrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which alenient authority permits. 

[Footnote 1: Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd. ]

CHAPTER III. 

_An Excursion to the Main Land. --Visit to King Marraboo. --Anecdotes of thisChief. --Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton. --A shooting Party, accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs. --Reflectionsupon Information obtained from them, relative to this Part of the Coast, and at Goree. --Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the Eugenie, whichconvoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on hislate Mission to the Interior of Africa. --Observations on thatSubject. --Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago. --SomeRemarks upon that Island. --Departure from thence to England, and safearrival at Portsmouth. _

A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursionupon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, forDecar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before hehad moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserablehabitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almostevery hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferatingtheir morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being anheterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitiousidolatry, incantations, and charms. 

We found _Marraboo's head men_ and priests assembled before his majesty'sdwelling _to give him service_, and to offer him their morning'ssalutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several of theofficers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, which uponenquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon a littlehurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with bamboo canes:my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I could notcontemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, withoutconceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their primaeval state. After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, accompanied by myfriends, to approach the royal presence; when he discovered us among thegroup, his countenance underwent an entire change, expressive of reserveand surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with Marraboo?" With greathumility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King George's country, hisbrother, to give him service. " He replied with quickness, "I be very gladto see you, what service have you brought?" I was aware of this tax upon mycivility, and replied, that "I make him good service;" which in plainEnglish was, that I shall make you a good present. He then conversed withmore freedom relative to his country, government, localities, and religion;I suggested to him that "I understood he was a powerful king, and a greatwarrior, had many wives and children, that he ruled over much people, and afine country, that I hear he get much head, that he far pass any of hisenemies, and that I be very happy to look so great a king:" or, in otherwords, that I understood he was a great general, was very rich, was morewise than all his contemporary chiefs, and that it gave me much pleasure topay my respects to so great a prince: but the former idiom of language isbest adapted to convey meaning to the interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, in whatever tongue it may be spoken; being that which they use intranslation; and when they are addressed in this phraseology, they conveytheir ideas with more perspicuity and literal interpretation. But to returnto the dialogue. 

Marraboo. --"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all mylife--great deal of war--my son some time since killed in battle. " This wasaccompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could notfail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on thesubject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for allhis enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and peoplesafe. "

Marraboo. --"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that--they all bekilled--they come there sometimes, but always go back again. " My curiositywas excited to obtain the history of this _enchanted wall_, which on myapproach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more thanthree or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells offresh water, open at several places, and without any defence. 

Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life _fetish man_, orhigh priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief bordering uponthe Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over to hisinterest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became formidable, rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of that partof the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, Marraboocaused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and extendingtowards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and inconsequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, wasrendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the naturaldisposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produceupon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army wasbeaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcisedheap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struckthem with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory;whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerfulinfluence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoinginstance. 

When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuousconception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combinationof incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he passall men, and was not born of woman. "

A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to themain land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principalinhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we wereimmediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity andattention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shootingequipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: inpursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to _Decar_, with arequest that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: oursolicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefsand head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamiltonand myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants onfoot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was notthe most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddlebeing scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intendedas a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thinplate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I couldscarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed severalbirds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; oneof which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with asharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by natureto operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us everyfriendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport;and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country aboundedwith a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amplyrewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. Thefatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completelyoverpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myselfattacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with everytenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash ofmilk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kindoffices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness inthis life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are theassuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferingsalleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominentcharacteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds. 

The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of myfriend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me toovercome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remainingpart of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring everyinformation relative to this part of the coast, and through theintelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabledto submit the following remarks. 

To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of theimportance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facilityof intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of localadvantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercialrelations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I dulyappreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices andgrounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, todevelope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and toimprove the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants. 

That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguousauxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly asubject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary andimpracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior ofAfrica, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which aboundwith multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, invitingour interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and theconsideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of thenatives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, before the path of research can be opened to the interior. 

We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most enterprisingefforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the natives, andtheir ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to commenceexperiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points fromwhence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization displayitself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be attainedwith the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its presentcondition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with its moreimproved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition of thefrontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural resources, continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the sea coastare always more fierce and savage than those more remote and insular: alltravellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their barbarous state, must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations and states clearlydemonstrates, that the never-failing influence of commerce and agricultureunited, has emanated from the frontiers, and progressively spread theirblessings into the interior countries. View our own now envied greatness, and the condition in which our forefathers lived, absorbed in idolatry andignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that our exalted state ofbeing has arisen from the introduction of the civilized arts of life, thecommerce which our local situation has invited to our shores, and ouragricultural industry. 

Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of _Senegal_, with its valuable _gum trade_; the _Gambia_, abounding with innumerableobjects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great variety of plants forstaining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, &c. ; _the Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, _ &c. All greatly productive, and their bordersinhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the Susees, the Mandingos, andother inferior nations, and communicating, as is now generally believed, with the river Niger, which introduces us to the interior of this greatcontinent; the whole presenting an animating prospect to the distinguishedenterprise of our country. 

That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat mycountrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge ofthis important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization amongits numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded fromthat emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon tocontingencies. 

The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal andthe river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to aidin forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, Iwould recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as acentral situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisitefacility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of theWindward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the riversGambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and tothe southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. To Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, bestcalculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast. 

The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliariesestablished to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form theoutlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, andorganized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the courseof my narrative. 

Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of warthe Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. As it was uncertain at whattime the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kindpermission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his lady. 

The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescenttransport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon hislate mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive itprudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river thanJillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles fromthe capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. Hissurgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by anofficer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order ofGovernment. 

Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoousundertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives ofAfrica are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in theirmanners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon theircountry. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches ofthis intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteemof his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to amisconceived plan, and mistaken procedure. 

[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO Published Aug 1 1807 by G & WNicol]

Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure withoutsensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the manyattentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and alsoto several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state ofhealth; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and veryintelligent observations. This native received his education in France, andhas acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present conditionof his country. 

Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and severalof the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on the 31stof May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June. 

The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from thesea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very weakand vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage forshipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer theshore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, andjail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of theisland of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly thegovernor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the oppositeside of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c. 

Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers orheavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. Theheat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo forsome hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chieflyAmericans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerousanchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo therisque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of. 

It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon itssurface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. Theyare governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago. 

The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbersor discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicablewretchedness. 

A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, whoreceived us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The townand garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer ofhigh rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature, and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. Thegreater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembledupon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was trulysolemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, buthow changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them intheir acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was takenin the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamationsupon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in thepious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them inflowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity, and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar. 

[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. By W. Distance about 4 leagues from BPublished Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPEVERDE, bearing at C, _N. N. E. _ and at D, _S. E. _ by _S. _ distance 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]

This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as itdeprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almostimmediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the nextmorning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of thepranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whomwere unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer. 

The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostlyblack, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and muchaddicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but thevallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have severalsugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, muchexceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might beconsiderably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the nativesare indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducementin touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the formeris good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. Butfrequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcityprevails. 

The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at RagFair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of everydescription. 

The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rathermore correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited inmuslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited. 

They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in highestimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except toPortugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which isperformed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruderinhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom inEngland. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and ruggedpaths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, whoadvance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely toshew their dexterity in halting. 

After being detained here for several days in taking in stock andprovisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop fromGambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and veryanxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We weredetained under quarantine until the return of post from London, andproceeded on shore the following day. There is something in _natale solum_which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates sopowerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Everyobject and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, andso sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even theextacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of enjoying. 

It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest deeds;and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, separateshim from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his life in itsdefence. 

"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see, Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee;Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain, And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain. " GOLDSMITH. 

CHAPTER IV. 

_The Author proceeds to London. --Re-embarks for Africa. --Arrives atMadeira. --Observations on that Island. --Prosecution of the Voyage, andArrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c. _

Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb andhis first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and separatedwith mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself proceededto London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy scene. 

Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, tocommit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had sorecently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded byKeith Maxwell, Esq. And the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq. 

We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath ofOctober, without experiencing any remarkable event. 

When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a strikinglybeautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, coveredwith plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the exceptionof partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry season, displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful appearance ofthe interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an arrangementboth exquisite and delightful. 

After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore inthe evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, Masterton, and Co. Were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing morning. 

At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were introducedinto the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting partners, tohis lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities andattention. 

After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and attendedchapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to ourcontemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of aconversazione. 

Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in thePortuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and maybe considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, asit is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. Thechurches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better tasteis displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, inwhich is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls andthigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skullsare placed in each of the four angles. 

Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is richand various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds innatural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the husbandmanto produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, chesnuts, and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and guanas, mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence of JamesGordon, Esq. Where we dined, and met with the most distinguishedhospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot ofthe tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from thetrunk, to a height of nearly _thirty feet_, from the month of January tothat of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches werelopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to thisstem. 

Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced inplenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect itsculture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying uponforeign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, andthey have game in the mountains. 

By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from theconfessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be inferredthat the number stated below, which I procured from official authority, isaccurate, viz. 

 Number confessed, 95, 000 And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5 years of age, the first period of their confession, is equal to 3, 500 -------- Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be 104, 500 --------

15, 000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of Funchal. 

The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of Portugal, the island being in its possession, styled governor of the islands, and: isperfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a council under himconsisting of 24 members, whose president is the second judge for the timebeing. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the holders continueonly for three years, at the end of which new nominations take place. 

The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12, 000 pipesannually, and consume from 6 to 8, 000 pipes in the island, comprehending_small wine_, &c. Being in the whole about 20, 000 pipes. It is made bypressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, proportioned insize to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers take off theirjackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feetpress as much of the juice as is practicable by this operation; the stalksare then tied together and pressed, under a square piece of wood, by alever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine is brought from thecountry in goat skins, by men and women on their heads. 

The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor cartsare in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for thelatter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels orother loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very welladapted to their roads. 

The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to 30, 000_l_. Annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade is greatlyagainst them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon. 

The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, convertedby their laws, into milreas of 5_s_. 6_d_. Pistareens, value about is. Bits, about 6_d_. And half bits, about 3_d_. 

It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they makepayment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, fromparticular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to thediscount. 

On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and thefriendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugalaffection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P. M. Went onboard. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arabcontinuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close inwith Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th ofNovember, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The shipAndersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued thereuntil the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident;at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the samemonth. 

My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through theneighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, andfrom a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, andtraders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of itsinhabitants, and its commercial resources. 

From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island displayed, with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra Leonecompany, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter delineate, upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, and hishereditary slavery exterminated. 

[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER SIERRA LEONE. _The Property ofJohn & Alexander Anderson Esq. London. _]

The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered asmore ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous inpopulation, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the interior. While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful influence ofbarbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to remuneration bynatural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. The African'sbarbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite resources upon thecoasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his view, to pre-disposehim to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized habits of life; nor isthere any site which I have met with upon the Windward Coast of Africa, more calculated to promote this beneficent undertaking, than the island ofBance, from its locality of situation, being central to windward andleeward operation, commanding an extensive circle of interior country, andbeing long established in the estimation of the natives of an extendeddistrict. But more of this subject in order. 

CHAPTER V. 

_Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone. --TheAuthor explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, andthe Port Logo. --The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants. --TheirCommerce. --The Author's safe Arrival at Miffaré. _

The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale hasbeen occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. With the _mannittee_, asingular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste of beef, which thenatives greatly esteem, and consider the highest offering they can make. 

Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs andbranches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of thezoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in England. 

The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, goats, hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those inEurope. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs inabundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. With the civet and zibethcats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains ofSierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer tothe anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, whenfull grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on theback, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkablygrave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; itwill imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, andis certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom Ihave before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, heassured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it beingcurved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection ofSurgeon-General Keate. 

There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, andloggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing severalhundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremelyvoracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, andat Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them fromthe shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, and camelion. 

Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl aboutfor poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure above18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when young, above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey entire;several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I allude towas cut open. 

There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard thenatives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet inlength, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the headis covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite isnot poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: itfrequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches:when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, tigers, &c. It dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself roundtheir bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaksthe bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers theanimal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process istedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders itincapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the periodwhich the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like aserpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; itis called by the natives _Tinnui_, and is what I apprehend naturalists termthe species of _Boa constrictor_: it is most commonly found in the sultryclimates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia andAmerica. 

Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and exceedinglybeautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to houses and fencesbuilt of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; cockroaches and crickets, destroying leather, linen, and clothes; musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, scorpions; and wild bees, which are very productive of honey. The vermisand large barnacles abound, which are so destructive to shipping withoutcopper bottoms. 

Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of theAfrican's sustenance. The rice-fields or _lugars_ are prepared during thedry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring aboutfour or five months growth to bring it to perfection. 

Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies. 

_Cassada_ or _cassava_, a root, of a pleasant taste when roasted or boiled, and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to flour. 

Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is anexcellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the nativesfor soap; ropes are made of the bark. 

Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in afew years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberancethroughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie. 

Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, only requiring about three months growth. 

Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate. 

Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, undercareful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive returns. 

Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the sameinterference. 

Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from thebutter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but morecohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, andadapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennisball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscoussubstance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procuredfrom a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wildexuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward. 

Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it toperfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff. 

A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may becomputed at about 4 cwt. In pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 incircumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposedto the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is muchsuperior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of greatutility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation amongthe Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their _Fetish_. Everytown almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which itschief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted. 

Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might beraised upon the more luxuriant soils. 

Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c. ; the three first are of a weakerflavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels inpungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa. 

The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and growsin the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruitexceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple. 

Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in theBananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, andare very fine. 

Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which putinto soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves make agood spinage. 

The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most usefultrees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where itgrows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, withoutbranches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom towardsthe top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large deciduousleaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a hardkernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin skin, and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, byits influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts areput into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of boiling, flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns rancid;the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the boiler, beatin a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut sinks, and itscontents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as before, is finallyput into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, producing another kind ofoil, used as butter, and having in a great degree its quality. 

The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom ofevery cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine perday, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The liquid, when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state has asweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, changing toa strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented state it is mostesteemed by the natives, and is productive of inebriety. 

A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and 3or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes anexcellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, thecauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives intobaskets, fishing nets, and cloth. 

MEDICINAL PLANTS. _Colla_ is highly esteemed by the natives, and theyattribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe thesame quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels tocollect all they can procure. 

_Castor Oil Rhinum_. -The bush which produces the bud from which this oiland valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon theWindward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great abundancealso, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian. 

The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result ofunscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professionalresearch, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercialcontemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here throughignorance and barbarism. 

On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of exploringthe two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the PortLogo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffaré, formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to BanceIsland. 

Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking anumber of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of thisbranch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for lightvessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now theresidence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so asto form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with theextreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by itsrays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerablyoppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a veryextensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which isextremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit bysaluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bushfiring, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry. 

It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down fromthe upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give usservice, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to _Marriba_, one ofAlimami's head men, and a resident of what they consider the lower town. 

Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in thepalaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, ordiscuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of regard, and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The oldchief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was broughtup by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a favourablereception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before known to him, he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the sun was almostintolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill where theimperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to this largesquare of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage or gate, forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing Alimami'shouse: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and proceededin the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of thesquare, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank ofmud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose manding, robe, or shirt. 

Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at adistance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relativeto some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of everyinhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The wholecompass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, theirvoices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without thewalls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatoryassembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased toreceive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, andimmediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It wasimpossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate thesurrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted withthis chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained byEuropean manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All cameto give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and acouple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offeringmore valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutualinterchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by theorators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with anaspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressingAlimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to givehim service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attachingto that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that Iwas his _fetish_ to establish that right. 

I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these mentell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report tome what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all thatalready and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment, " Or in otherwords more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to myhead men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their businessto make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of thecase; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situatedas to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in thejudges. 

I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; itconsisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, andcovered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement fromthe heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, orsit in familiar intercourse. 

During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, wasreposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, uponexamination, I found executed in a neat character, and from hisinterpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, andcontaining confused extracts from the Koran. 

The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading withso much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the othertribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has theirsuperior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In noinstance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in thatof Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he isnot a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe ofMandingos were itinerant _fetish_ makers and priests, but now they arenumerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide districtreceives their rulers and chieftains. 

After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several ofhis chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me inanother part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that Iintended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "itwas; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this wasthe second time I look them, but never forget them. " "We all know that, " hereplied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you begood man, and we wish you live among us--How many moon you be gone fromus?"--"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"--"Ilike that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white mandoes;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of goldin the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me. " To have refused itwould have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I wouldtie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to letEnglishmen see what fine present he make me. " He was quite pleased with theidea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency. 

Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and hischiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the town, paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to theschoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, excited my respect and esteem. 

Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a countrymess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The chiefcould not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great assiduityduring our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, and wereturned to Miffaré without accident. 

The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which wefound more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its bordersbetter inhabited. 

Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and theinhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, alittle chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us withgreat hospitality: here we slept. 

We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of themost regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, butformerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and_fetish_ maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country onthat side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into noticeand influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, and atthe entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which encloses it, there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The wall, with thetowers, completely obscures the buildings which form the town, and serve asa guard against any depredations of enemies, while it shelters theinhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. Morrey Bunda hasdisplayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable ingenuity, considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the predatorynature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the inhabitants ofa village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded state, seldom orever coming to a general engagement in the open country, but acting underthe protection of some ambush, or other place of security, which, while itis calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat from theirsuccessful opponents. 

Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until wearrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon aneminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meanderingcourse of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a greatdiversity of appearance. 

Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charmingsituation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a veryextensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous tothe Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, andsituated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to theselocal advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under hisinfluence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be ofincalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of thischief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection withBance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldomto be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From thevarious opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentimentsrelative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had withhim, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligentauxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberalprinciple, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicateits barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of thedispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil tobe removed, and the invidious principles which constituted theestablishments that have been formed to promote this beneficentundertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and therefined arts of civilized life. 

From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, moreinsular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with anarrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as heobserved, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of ourexpedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his oppositeneighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards thePort Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon therafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up theriver, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and hispeople, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, hadcrossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarkingto join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with theintention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of theirtowns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing couldexceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armedwith their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, andcompletely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and variousother manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of whichno idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarouspeople. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with _gris-gris_ and_fetishes_, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing thevirtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn _palaver_is always held upon these occasions, and their _gris-gris_ makers, _fetish_men, and priests, exorcise their absurd decorations, which, in theirestimation, operate as guardian angels in the hour of difficulty and peril. 

Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left ourcanoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. _Cabba_, one of the chiefs, accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, that "badmight happen us, as war live in the country. " We passed through aremarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of naturalproductions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all theluxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we behelddeserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the tracesof barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whomI conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of apredatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbaroushabits. 

At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with whomwe rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in hispower to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of usefulinformation relative to a wide extent of country. His education andacquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shutup in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain andsurprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after hehad confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which weremarked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences. 

It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principaltown of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of theriver, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene;but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefsabsence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, fromwhence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safeat Miffaré; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop allcanoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew wewould not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw themdo. " Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallenvictims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, wereexcited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocityof the African character. 

At Miffaré, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously noticed, who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here buried byhis own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular customprevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly elucidatesthe prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the immortality of thesoul and a future state. 

After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of thetown, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the ideathat it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a stillmore singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the PortLogo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to thedeparted spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have beenredundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of theirfavourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is amost serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnantwith melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a latelegislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled powerand avarice of other nations. 

CHAPTER VI. 

_Return to Bance Island. --General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast. --An Accountof the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducingnatural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c. _

The morning after my last arrival at Miffaré I returned to Bance Island;before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at thisstage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the presentstate of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize usedtherein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of itsnatives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with theclaims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, andtheir enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may bepreserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded fromthose important advantages, which it only requires intelligence andenterprise to unfold. 

In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, thatmy reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealousadvocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. Themotives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in themeans I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trustthat they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions arecongenial with theirs in the cause of humanity. 

I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on thetrade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion tovisit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjectsalready ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they areintimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commercewhich have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generallyknown; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, theincalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote theagricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts ofAfrica, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercoursewith the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society. 

If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, andeventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, andmy fondest hopes will be gratified. 

In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of slaves, and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the Windward Coastof Africa, &c. From the information acquired from the traders of mostintelligence in respective rivers, and from my own observation. 

| | | | | | | |Amount| | | | | | | |Sterling| NAMES OF PLACES |A |B |C |D |E |F | £|---------------------|-------|----|----|------|----|----|---------|River Gambia, and | | | | | | ||Island of Goree . . . | 2, 000 | 15 |-- |-- |150 |-- | 60, 250|Rio Noonez. . . . . . | 600 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |-- | 19, 000|Rio Pongo . . . . . . | 2, 000 | 30 |60 |-- |-- |-- | 52, 000|River Sierra Leone, | | | | | | ||adjacent Rivers, | | | | | | ||and Isles de Loss, | 3, 200 | 15 |200 |800 |-- |-- | 82, 250|inclusive . . . . . . | | | | | | ||River Sherbro . . . . | 500 |-- |200 |300 |-- |-- | 18, 000|---- Gallunas. . . . | 1, 200 |-- | 80 |-- |-- |-- | 26, 000|Cape Mount to | | | | | | ||Cape Palmas . . . . . | 2, 000 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |100 | 48, 000| |-------|----|----|------|----|----|--------| |11, 500 |100 |540 |1, 100 |150 |100 |305, 500

A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper

Estimating slaves at 20_l_. Each; ivory, 350_l_. ; camwood, 25_l_. ; rice, 10_l_. ; wax, 100_l_. ; and Malaguetta pepper, 10_l_. Per ton, at first costupon the coast of Africa; the whole produces the sum of 305, 500_l_. Sterling; to which may be added a three-fold export to leeward, which willmake an aggregate amount of nearly _one million_ sterling. In addition tothe foregoing exemplification, we have to contemplate the greatmultiplicity of natural productions, abounding in this extent of region, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, cotton in wild exuberance, cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, &c. &c. Wild bees are so extremelynumerous, that wax forms an important article of trade which might beconsiderably increased; substances proper for making soap are also to befound in great abundance, raw hides, more especially in the Gambia, and thecountries insular to the Rio Noonez and Rio Pongo; gold is procured fromBambouk, and tobacco is found in every direction, which might be greatlyincreased by cultivation and an improved soil; cattle, poultry, Guineahens, different species of game, fish, with other animals; fruits, and avariety of vegetable productions, calculated to satisfy every luxuriouswant and desire. To these objects of commerce may be added, the nowimportant article of sugar, which might be raised to a great amount, invarious districts of Africa, as the climate is propitious to the growth ofthe sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, might be raised in greatperfection. 

The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, theRio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. Areuniversally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant invegetation and population. 

These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet workand ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties. 

The most remarkable are, 1st. The cevey, or kinney wood, which grows aboutthe size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 feet by15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted tocabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having thevirtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping intropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Anyquantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a fewhours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resemblingverdigrise, and of a poisonous quality. 

Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder inquality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiaritiesas the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corrodingiron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or_gris-gris_ tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, having amore rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both salt andfresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in thepremature state, as to cause instant death. 

The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continentrequire only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe areintroduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnaturaland much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in oneimpressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants ofEurope, and to none more than those of Englishmen. 

The goods adapted to African commerce are, _East India goods_--consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, romals, neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, bandanoes, sastracundies, &c. 

_Manchester goods_. --Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, photaes, romalhandkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. _Linen Britanias_, slops, spirits, tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, beads, coral, iron bars, leadbars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, pipes, leg and hand manilloes, snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine ditto, hair trunks, knives, looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, glass ware, stone ware, provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c. 

The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception ofthe various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the differentbranches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous body ofmerchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class of thecommunity. 

Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as acirculating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an idealstandard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter;this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast. 

From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a _bar_;from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is in _rounds_;and on the Gold Coast in _ackies_ of gold, equal to 4_l_. Sterling, and oftrade only half that value. 

At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of 6;but at present the bar is considered a dollar. 

The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; thequantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts ofthe coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, sixheads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or afathom of chintz. 

A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will inothers fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, toreduce his assortment to an equilibrium. 

The following are the barter prices now established throughout aconsiderable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, theyare subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and othercircumstances. 

 1 blue baft 6 bars 1 bonny chintz & stripe 8 1 white baft 6 1 byrampaut 6 1 chilloe 6 1 bijudapaut 6 1 cushtae 5 1 bonny blue romal 5 1 niccanee 5 1 sastracundie 4 1 India cherridery 6 1 taffety 15 1 cottanee 12 1 dozen britannias 8 1 piece of bandanas 6 1 barrel of powder 60 1 fowling gun 8 1 burding 6 1 soldier's gun 5 bars 1 buccanier ditto 6 1 dozen of cutlasses 8 1 sword blade 2 1 iron bar 1 1000 arangoes 30 1 bunch of point beads 1 1 bunch of mock coral 1 Red pecado 3lb. For 1 Seed beads, ditto 1 Battery ditto 1 1 Mandingo kettle 1 1 dozen of hardware 3 1 bason 1 1 ton of salt 60 1 fine hat 3 Tobacco, 6lb. To 1 Rum, per gallon 1

Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and _escrevals_, or pieces under20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb. 

As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numericalcalculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or cowries. 

After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. Is putdown, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is exhausted, when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea of thevalue of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to gain abar. 

In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by bendingthe little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the otherfingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding thecalculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to beextended, the same process is repeated. 

Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried onwith extreme tardiness; a _palaver_ is held over every thing they have forbarter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast isduring the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under thecontrol of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to belodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, he expects the latter _to give him service_, or a present of kola, Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making along speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has hadto surmount, &c. ; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade forrice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a newpalaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the mostdetermined firmness. 

When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing hispraises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road. 

The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been from_two_ to _three millions sterling_; for although large remittances havebeen made in bills to the African merchants, yet these bills have beenprovided for in produce by the planters. Politically considered, it willappear, that its regeneration might have been more appropriately theprogressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will also appear, from mysubsequent remarks, that by those means alone the African can be freed fromhis shackles, and his condition efficaciously improved. 

But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make someremarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of theWindward Coast. 

The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are ingeneral extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, incantations, and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from itinerantdevotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among them, andmake a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, Timinees, &c. Occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and are equallyconfused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose attributes theyentertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is impossible togive any clear description. They will tell the traveller with great apathy, "they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt them. " Theiracts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are apparentlydivested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the blessing theyreceive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The Devil, orevil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their attention fromthe injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is worshipped undera variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the shade of a largetree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the gratification of hisappetite; a _country mess_, a goat, or other offering of this nature, whichthey may conceive to be acceptable to his divinity, who, however, is oftencozened out of the offering by some sacreligious and more corporealsubstance, to whose nature and wants it is more congenial; at some periodsgreat faith is attached to their _fetish_, as an antidote against evil; andat others the alligator, the snake, the guava, and a number of other livinganimals and inanimate substances are the objects of their worship. Likeother unenlightened nations, a variety of external beings supply the wantof the principles of Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption andsubstitution of corporate qualities as objects of external homage andreverence. 

_Fetish_, derived from the word _Feitico_, denotes witchcraft among themajority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is evenextended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and isan expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of variousfigures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectuallyconceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotionitself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priestsand fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruouscomposition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish isformed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence fromthe Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a pieceof leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind isplaced over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmearedwith palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications. 

_Ghresh_, or _Gresh_, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, meaning toexpel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of the word, isthe expression from which the African _gris-gris_ is derived, consisting ofexorcised feathers, cloth, &c. , short sentences from the Koran, written onparchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern cases, worn abouttheir persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil spirits, and is aspecies of _fetish_. 

The Mandingos, or book-men, are great _fetish_ makers, many of them beingwell versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. Fromthe impression of their superior learning and address, their influence andnumbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs inplaces where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess incommon with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, ispeculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrinesof Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligentchief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of hisnation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes inthe vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is theportion of the Islam faith believed by them. 

1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman. 

2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that heis superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. And, 3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers_seventy-two bouris_, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are toadminister to all their pleasures, and participate with them in theenjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratificationof those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which isnothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, "that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" fromhence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from theapostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of thisimpostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and establishedcustoms; he tolerates polygamy, &c. And to add to the sanctity of hispernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by theangel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him theprecepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast;he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times aday, facing the holy city, &c. ; forming together a system of the mostinsidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In theperformance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of theintellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described byMahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they areas perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divinenature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, whenconsidered as human beings endowed with reason. 

The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced bybelief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive incompatiblewith the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very prevalent andhereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They are extremelyjealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but there are, notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among them, and itwill be found that their climate and habits are closely assimilated. 

To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a verynarrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants ofEuropeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, andoccasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, they require only a stripe of linen, and their _gris-gris_; while abuilding of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms thelatter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances requireit, is abandoned without much regret. 

The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. Seasoned withpalm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs ofvarious kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, andflesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications. 

A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, ina very few days prepares the _lugars_, or cultivated fields; and theharvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to theportion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to beportioned out as circumstances may require. 

Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regalethemselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a verysmall kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfectstate of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted fromthe cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacentcountries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Sooseesextract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in greatabundance, which they call _gingingey_, something similar to the sweetpotatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pitin the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and coveredwith fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots arecompletely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposedafterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar tohoney; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This isperformed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoventogether like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, andwater poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through atube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violentpurgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and isthen incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excitesa bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit foruse. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, whichinterval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken byinsensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is anexcellent medicine for colds. 

Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, withoutculture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisitefor their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the threadis woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces fromsix to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, requiredfor use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of otherplants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for aNegroe of the lower class. 

They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from varioussubstances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, quivers, arrows, &c. Which all prove the taste and ingenuity of thenatives. 

The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from sixteento twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice generallycontinues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he acquireswealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally livecordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he isconsidered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "sucha man be rich, he have much woman. " When an object excites his desire, heconsults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when notconsulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to herjealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it doesoccur, it is considered as a degradation. 

The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants aresupplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified withoutrestraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and hislife glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has fewsolicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfectresignation. 

In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, every principal village or town has its _bantaba_, or _palaver-house_, which I have before described. In this house, or under the shade of somevenerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in groups, from sun-risingto sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in conversation on publicaffairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their tittle-tattle iscarried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and delight; their time thusoccupied is so seducing, that they separate with great reluctance, sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, smoaking, anddiversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They assemble inthe open air during the dry season, and under the palaver-houses in thewet, where they form themselves into dancing companies, generally duringhalf the night, and not unfrequently the whole of it. Their instruments ofmusic are upon a very rude construction, consisting of a _tabila_, or drum, hollowed out from a piece of wood, and covered at each end with a bull'shide, producing a most barbarous noise, accompanied by a _baba_, or rattle, loud shouts, palaver, songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a systemof confused uproar, unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, sometimes in violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothingcan be done without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he fromwhom the proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musicalinstruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action orexploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasuresof the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew ofluxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all thegradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusualdelight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenlya feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with ahumiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastilyretire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide theirblushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous andamiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged inthe vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; andwretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable ofinsulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will notpermit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther thanobserving, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep ontheir mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend theiroffspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed bypainful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness tosee these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise avigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these arethe physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, andprocreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised;but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in thesecountries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed atfrom sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life isprolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain theirvigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last;and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having thepossession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a youngprogeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe thelast stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of ajourney, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious ofthe future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation. 

The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea tothe mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed byferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey ablissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take anotherview, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed insuperstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil artsof life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, theirhostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite toinfranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in thefollowing chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites theattention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims ofhumanity. 

CHAPTER VII. 

_The Mode of Trial by_ Ordeal _and_ Red Water _in Africa. --The Wars of itsInhabitants. --The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered. --The Conditionof the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, withoutfurther Interference. --Salutary Measures must be adopted towards theNegroes in the Colonies. --A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers ofits Inhabitants. --The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interiorof Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources. _

Trial by _ordeal_ in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts anddelinquincies. Trial by _red water_ is generally applied to crimes ofgreater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, theoperation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand ofthe accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron isimmediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, indefiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequenceis that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, theiron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on thehand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced. 

Trial by _red water_ consists in making the accused drink a quantity ofwater, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley or_gris-gris_ tree; this is prepared by these _equitable_ judges, andapplied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by the _ordealof fire_; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy object ofsuspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a proof ofguilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so inflatedby the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these catastrophesall his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these diabolicalexpedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. When chiefs ofinfluence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of accusation, theingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal tendency. Hencejustice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful offenders, orshield the innocence of the weak and unprotected. 

The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadfulconsequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slavesare created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, whichthey consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanityshould seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectualpowers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil maynot be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and nativesrelative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "thatsuch live in their country, " but with their characteristic dissimulation, always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted thediabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only badmen do that thing. "

Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequencesof a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is theresult of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. Asa preliminary, they retire to the _bunda_, or penitentiary, and are theresecluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is over, the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, fashionedand sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, and ontheir return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin purity. 

Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correctestimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities andsituation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularlythose of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes andnations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies andcontentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood. 

What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that warsare carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by thecustoms of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, andsacrifice, [1] to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs;one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubtthat those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, infalling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who aresacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since theinterior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for Europeanmerchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. Iam far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, andleave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habitsand immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to bewell acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I havenot here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within thebounds of their savage ferocity. 

From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon theslave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch ofthe barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslavedcondition. 

Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character ofman, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimatedpopulation of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated atupwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our ownsituation, it will be found, that the number of executions andtransportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores ofAfrica, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade hasextricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horriblesacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been acause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating manyvictims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, whichin its nature is barbarous and inhuman. 

Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, ormisapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallaciousmeasures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used toprocure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to theircustoms. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; andif the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime ofwitchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase theiraccusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and otherviolations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to beobtained by money. 

The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal oftheir subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under theirlaws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, theaction of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, andinsatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives andvictims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than inthe maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, improve the condition of the African. 

By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is nowabandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of othernations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts ofparliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the conditionof slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even theircomforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might havebeen done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object ofmatured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of ourenemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of thetrade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, toease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude andnature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy toeradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moralturpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate characterand established habits. The condition of the African, the probableadvantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances ofcommerce, were all considerations of important consequence. 

Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of moralevil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the moreeffectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the corruptions ofsociety, exercise at all times its functions with due effect; neither hasan instance occurred where its prudence and discretion was more imperiouslycalled upon, than in that now under consideration. It had immemorial customin Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and savage ferocity. Thissystem had interwoven itself with our commercial existence so closely, asto require the most sagacious policy to eradicate it; at the same time itwas the highest consideration for our magnanimity to interfere for thatbeing whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long contributed to ourwealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned him to contingencies. 

Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that somethingyet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, andpreserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has alliedwith the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject thatdispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assurethem, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submissionand diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficenceof my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christiansociety in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and opena path to its commerce, free and unobscured. 

The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, isimpracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution ofEuropeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisiteauthority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and amisapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as Iconceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing theiragricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humaneproject, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite totheir colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded uponthe principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, andcommercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured inthe same manner, " and in conformity with the act of parliament whichincorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in theservice of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one oftheir reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want ofauthority over the free natives whom they employed, their agriculturalestablishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthyand truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risquean extensive property _unhappily expended without effect_, here considerthat I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they acquiescein the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their beneficentobjects, and to _assimilate the natives_ of the country with their views. They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of their property, but an _alienation of the natives_, occasioned by a misconception of theircharacter, by distracted councils, and the narrowed ideas of the agentsthey employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but also by a desolatewaste in their colony, without a regular feature of cultivation in itsvicinity. 

At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under onesuperintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, themechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree ofperfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; andhad the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered andcultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of thecapacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previouslynoticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied tothe local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has becomemore inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary pointof view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto. 

I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that activegoodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to theundertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive thatthey have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds ofcivilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectivelydisplayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiarco-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; toeradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurateinvestigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminationsof intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent viewsof the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and havebeen the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, thebarbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to thebenevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitableexpenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of theirhumane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents haveintroduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a veryextensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into anyof the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought intoaction any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in aregular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they haveunfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity andsimplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preachingand example, any tribe or nation among them?--The spacious waste isdestitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character;it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant andassuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corruptedmorals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge theinveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensiblyrequisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, commerce, and navigation. 

Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render thebest concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, butunquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African maybe manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate butslowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformationare not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are thehereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamationsof enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polishedarts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agricultureof assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluringattitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolentto observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, hecontemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when hediscovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from hisinnate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excitedto attain a more exalted state. 

Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs andhead men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and theirsordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain. 

During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must betolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra LeoneCompany, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent ofpolitical considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the climateof Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes aninsurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; thereforeit is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of thecountry; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; forit is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise beestablished, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequatereturn. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumissionof the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the soundand humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, isnecessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught thenature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must beexpanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him toparticipate in its enjoyment. 

The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to thelegislature, and to my country, is this:

1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, asunavoidable from the present condition of Africa. 

2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations andtribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or slavemerchants from the interior countries. 

3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present purposesof labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, asapplicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the usefulpurposes of life. 

4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form thecomplement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary ofinstruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, andunder tutors approved of in England. 

5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, underthe administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the initiationof these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the rudiments ofletters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation of educationadapted to the useful purposes of life. 

6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic economy, agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their existence, under the superintendence of the European colonist. 

7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, tobecome the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to theirattainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement. 

8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, andacquirement, become immediately objects of manumission. 

9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control andinvestigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, fromtime to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of thelegislative authority of the colony. 

10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respectivecountries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities ofcivilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views ofthe colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughoutthe utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilizedand Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricatedfrom its barbarism. 

It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidiousdistinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his nativecountry; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in theblessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where ourextensive dominion and influence exist. 

By adopting the _first proposition_, a sufficient authority would bemaintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and competentto excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character of theAfrican; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of competition. 

Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentivedistrict would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiatingtheir, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting thecommercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffusedthroughout Africa. 

By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would beobtained to commence vigorous operations. 

In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of bothsexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulteratedcondition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from thecontrol of their parents, and the contamination of their example, intowhose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life. 

Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might berealized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from theshores and country of Africa. 

By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists toretard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronageof Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid ofindividual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from theparent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established tosecure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast ofAfrica. 

And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy theadvantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce beincreased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throwopen the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research. 

Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth andrevealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, hisnature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations ofenlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interiorof his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through aless polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in hisnative land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into thecircle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and towhich providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensibleadministration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at. 

[Footnote 1: A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, asvictims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs. ]

CHAPTER VIII. 

_What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to makeeffectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas. --Reasons forsubjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration. --TheSituations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c. _

What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to CapePalmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea ofthe religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercialresources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unitecommerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact. 

I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa morecalculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra Leoneto influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of Africa. 

This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by itsrivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this greatcontinent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of theSierra Leone Company, that from _Teembo_, about 270 miles interior to theentrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path ofcommunication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, Segoo(where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising spiritof Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to Genah, andfrom thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and populous. Thedistance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at about four moons'journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days to each moon, isequal to 2, 400 miles. This distance in a country like Africa, obscured byevery impediment which forests, desarts, and intense climate can oppose tothe traveller, is immense; and when it is considered that in addition tothese, he has to contend with the barbarism of the inhabitants, it is asubject for serious deliberation, before the investigation of its naturalhistory and commercial resources is undertaken. But it also displays ananimating field of enterprise to obtain a free intercourse with thisunbounded space, and if, at a future day, we should traverse it withfreedom and safety, the whole of Africa might thereby be enlightened, andits mysteries developed to the civilized world. 

I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the enterprisesand operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a supremedirection and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt manycontradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the outlineI have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of introducingcivilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and reasonswould occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to instance somelocal circumstances and political reasons why I make the proposition. 

From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochellbranch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can openand shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of theFoolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but whowas strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of hiscountry, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward toCape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from theinterior countries, might be maintained. 

By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a continuedactivity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, and acorrespondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel from20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries. 

From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and awatchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal wouldbe maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regularsystem of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In additionto these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establishfactories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarciesand Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. Or in other commandingpositions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliaryestablishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objectsthey would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well suppliedassortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted tocircumstances. 

The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and friendshipwith the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it may herebe perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the auspiciouscontrol of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to civilize itsinhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most favourable, also, towards our operations in the countries on this continent; while thevarious natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, by wise management, ininfluencing the inhabitants, where our researches and pursuits might carryus, and eventually conduct us to the centre of Africa, from thence to theeastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the banks of the Nile. I trust itwill here also appear that the means of acting, and the importantadvantages to be derived therefrom, are neither illusive nor impracticable. 

It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limitedgenius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting withunanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more bycaprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce theirideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over themaxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men isthe art requisite to successful operation. 

May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail inAfrica, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with thatcountry are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of thehabitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subjectof great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collectthe means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the wholeto a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controllingadministration. 

The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs inAfrica, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition;therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, itwill be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources]of commercial wealth and industry. 

Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromaticplants and trees, &c. First offer themselves to, our attention in wildexuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means tobring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery. 

I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in theSierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of pettyestablishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousiesand interests varying in different directions, produce operations of acontradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be wellacquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and thelocalities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, Iventure to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa. 

I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, withdispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others morecompetent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views ofhumanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, andrejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests ofmankind. 

The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, withdelegated powers to control all the operations in the countries borderingon the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed byhim, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the RioNoonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of thecentral and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the thirddivision under the authority of another command at a position chosenbetween Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas. 

The military protection of the establishments, as I have here recommended, would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree certainly claimspeculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, and the gunsrendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a perfect state toguard against the want of this necessary article from the main land, which, as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period by the enemy. Theconvenience, airy and healthy construction of the barracks and hospitals, claim the most minute attention and care. Under skilful superintendance inthese important departments, the health of the troops might be preserved, and objects of defence realized with a very inconsiderable militaryestablishment. But as government must be well informed by its officers, both military and naval in these points, it would be indecorous in me toenlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from his long residence, andintimacy with a great portion of the Windward Coast, possesses ampleinformation. And the naval officers, who from time to time have visited it, have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary to complete an effectivenaval protection. A regular system of defence, adapted to the jurisdictionof the Sierra Leone, and delegated establishment between Cape Mount andCape Palmas, are also obviously requisite. The establishments that would beeligible for the purposes of defence, are confined to the three foregoingprincipal positions, and they have little to perform that is eitherdifficult or embarrassing. It may not, however, be considered as goingbeyond the bounds of propriety to hint, that a great portion of thesoldiers charged with defence, should be able engineers and gunners, and afew cavalry might be occasionally found useful. To complete the entireplan, and exclude our enemies from every point, from Cape Blanco to CapePalmas, the possession of the French establishment at the Isle of Louis inthe Senegal, is an abject of serious contemplation, and no doubt might beattained with great facility by even a small force. The unhealthyconsequences to a military force attached to this place might be greatlyremoved by superior convenience in the hospitals, barracks, and otherdepartments of residence; and in a commercial point of view, its advantagesare too well ascertained for me to obtrude any observations. 

The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime fromoyster shells, &c. Wood and other materials at a very inconsiderableexpense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead ofmoney, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened. 

CHAPTER IX. 

_The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva. --Proceeds to the RioPongo. --Disquisitions thereon. --Further Observations on the Inhabitants, obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there. --The Isles deLoss--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c. _

Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the shipMinerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, andother rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an anchorat the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the branchesof the _Bungra, Charleston, Constintia, _ &c. Empty themselves; higher upthe river are the _Sanga_ and _Bashia_ branches, occupied by a chain offactories, and inhabited by various nations and tribes. The principalfactories for trade are on the Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. Cummings's factory, at Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. BenjaminCurtis's, at Boston; Mr. Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston;Mr. David Lawrence's, at Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. Ormond's, Mr. Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; withvarious others of inferior consideration. 

During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and inaddition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from thevarious conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunitiesof communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, whoare drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In myexcursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain WilliamBrowne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the solemanagement of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him thispublic testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while onthis part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival inEngland, by the way of the West Indies. 

The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by theNilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with thatriver, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is thepowerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from theentrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with theinterior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens andshuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust andcourageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is amixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarlyfriendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribesare of that description, they are continually practising every violence, and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of veryconsiderable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom Imet in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surroundingtribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his replywas, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but thesepeople we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with thosewho give God Almighty service. " While this barbarism exists, and the slavetrade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable conditionof the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might beurged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolahnation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme ofestablishment upon the coast. 

So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derivedfrom agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. To the agents ofthe Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegatedsuperintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivatednor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his highpriest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sentto England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken toattain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolahnation to their interest. 

The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and theircountenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the hair inboth men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have a mostdisgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil andgrease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, isdifferent from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is moreharmonious. 

To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries ofthe Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolatersexcept the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion amixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmlessrace of men than any of the other _infidel_ nations, and their dispositionsare more calculated to industrious avocations than their neighbours. 

I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation andthe Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence overthe other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few moreobservations upon them. 

From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are anumerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in thedistrict now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people whoinhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are variousothers established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of theGambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sourcesof that river. 

The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of theFoolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western countries, from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in merchandize, and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in process of time, be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment to civilize them, in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous states. 

Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes thesepeople, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women areaimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs;their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regularthan the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, theMandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsomeNegroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is morecrisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; thisnation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards theline; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so blackas the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour ofthe Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physicalcauses yet unknown. 

There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of Africa, particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I have seenin my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universalprofession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part ofthe coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but thevisible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nationstowards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious differencemay be observed among these numerous nations; their language and theircustoms are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. Fromthe shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of thenations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, whichexhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps oftrees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in thecentre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image ofadoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in thisinstance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, thereforethey do not know how to make any thing like him. " To the good spirit theyneither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary toobtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which ofcourse he will administer to them. 

From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and fetishworship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that Mahomedanism hasbeen propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here be unopportune tointroduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained from a veryintelligent chief of that nation: viz. 

_Mandingo Arabic_. 

Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademyabodehé. Subbohanala rabilaAllah. Subbohana arabe. Inyeallamante, nafuse wa amutatesue wakefurella. Teyatelillahétebates allivatuelub lahey. Sillamaleko ayo hanabehé, obarakatolahe Sullamalina Ihannabé, lebadelahe Saliheneé"

The address to Mahomet follows, viz. 

Sahadala elahe idillahaMahomedo, arasoolo lahiman Mahomedo aboodaho. 

_In their idiom of English. _

God lives and, is not dust. God be master of all and isabove his slaves. God knowshis slave, and is not made ofearth; but above all. (Beforethe next sentence, Subbohanaarabe, &c. He bows twice. )

Suppose I die, I can look youto-morrow, and thank you, andbe out of trouble, and free fromthe Devil. 

(Teyatelillahé, &c. Accompaniedby a motion of the fingers)

I beg in my prayers again, God, I may die to day, I look tothank you again to-morrow, my people and family maythen get into trouble, and Ithen pray to you. 

To Mahomet. 

Mahomet be man, born ofwoman, the prophet of God, and speak to him for man. 

In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, anda strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderableargument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship ofheathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object ofadoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate abelief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and theyclearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy ofofferings and sacrifice. 

The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down uponthe ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, touchingthe earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then rubbing theirarms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is contracted by thisoperation, when the hands are applied to the face, and the forefingers putinto the ears. 

I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present conditioncompared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much intheir power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interiorcountries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of anypursuits upon this district of Africa. 

The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the Gambia, carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. Where gold isprocured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the earth, and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; it isfirst washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the dust, andsometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of mining; but itappears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, which areconcealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The Mandingoesspeak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are extremelyjealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative to them: asthey carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce. 

When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of anextraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its coursefrom NE. To SW. Which put the natives in a most dreadful state ofconsternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat theirdrums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarousuproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sunand moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they supposeto obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions havethe most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible todissuade or reason him out of them. 

From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open anintercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of theRio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, areevery where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. Withthe _consent of the chiefs_, these might be obtained at a small expense, and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly embrace a wiseinterference; but they all complain, "white man not know their fashion, "intimating in very forcible language, that every caution should be used, atinnovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let example first excitetheir admiration, and their barbarism will bow before the arts ofcivilization, and slavery be gradually abolished. 

Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon thetemperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verdeand Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeansare most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and givegeneral precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c. 

The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strongexcitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseaseswhich prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would behighly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises fromthe knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitionsattached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to thecivilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, andthe diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitantsin opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessaryrules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of thesun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arisefrom a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated;and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and throughignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from theunhealthiness of the climate. 

The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various fromthe vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of thecountry. 

In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it hasbeen from 70° in the morning, to 90° at noon, in the shade; and nearly thesame variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in someplaces in the Foolah country it has been from 50° to 90°

From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, byFahrenheit, has been from 90° in the morning to 100° at noon in the shade, and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92° to 106°; but avariety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat:this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of thesecountries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and thebay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all therivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrableforests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is butseldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. Occasionally occur, when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river. 

From May to August, hurricanes or _tornados_, before described, prevailupon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from CapeVerde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable forthe prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which arecalled _harmatans_, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy atmosphere, and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of vegetation isblasted by their influence, and every object, animate and inanimate, feelstheir powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and every feature isshriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work will give way, theseams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. Furniture of every sortis distorted; in short, nothing escapes their dreadful power. The nights atthis period are cool and refreshing. 

The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from theequator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxialthey begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the differencethroughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or lessthan 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched upand consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence ofthe sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with verminand reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. Thenatives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may beadded, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations atthis season. 

The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost vertical, quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces an almostinsupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept the solarrays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and prespirationceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with the mostserious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the noxiousexhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps whichabound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of the dryseason, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrideffluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, whichannually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months ofthe year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single dropfalls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in thedry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible onvegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms animpervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation. 

When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations fromthe earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a mostoffensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon thehuman system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their effectswith dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against thanwhen the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates theatmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter. 

The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervousfevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled bythe winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these _harmatans_are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions among medical menon this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long residence at BanceIsland, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance with the diseases ofthese climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide upon the fact, was ofopinion, most decidedly, that the _harmatan_ season was not the mosthealthy. 

When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, itsconsequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and withoutgradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what isexperienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is acrisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues Iunderwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for severaldays and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed anuninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colonyof Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not beenfor the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of thatcolony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in allprobability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fataltendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease isnot uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of greatdebility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protractedperiod, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysenteryfollowed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-acheis another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease ofappetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium isconsidered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administeredwith great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusionof ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assistsexcretion, and is found beneficial. _Tetanos_ is also another diseasepeculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, forwhich opium is the usual remedy. 

The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is productiveof tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, and is acontagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my province, andwhich has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose profession fullyqualified them for the investigation. In addition to the many valuabletreatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I would recommendDr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing highlyimportant local information upon the diseases of the Windward Coast. 

I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within mypersonal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans indrinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should alwaysundergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that greatcircumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend todiminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa. 

Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into thetemperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and itsdiseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to thescience of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequencein preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposedto all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth theattention of government, which would train up a body of physicians andsurgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to thosecountries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings ofthe utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form apart in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto aninstitution of this nature. 

CHAPTER X. 

_The Author visits the Isles de Loss. --Remarks on those Islands. --Touchesat the River Scarcies. --Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone. --Embarks forthe West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerory. --Some Observations on theProductions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importanceof Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and commercial View. _

On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course forthe Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island. 

The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, areso called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven innumber; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kidislands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and hasfew inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging togentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and FactoryIsland has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These arethe principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and theyabound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, towhich great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance inthese islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, inthe _Materia Medica_, or _Edinburgh Dispensary_, describes the peculiarqualities of this root. 

The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to thepredatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged thefactories established in Crawford's Island. 

On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the entranceinto the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous peals ofthunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on until the12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. By S. And theIsles de Loss in sight. At 2 P. M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with fivehands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarciesriver. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entranceby the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayednothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged byrain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner ourcircumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protectingcare and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread aroundus, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest bythe jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplatean azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving usfrom such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, shoals, and sands. 

At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered ourcourse S. S. E. For the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S. E. Andthe ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; wewere therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, weagain weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soonincreased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; wewere driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between thebar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollerscontinually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P. M. Entered theriver, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, thatcould not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describingthis excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead themto this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in thiscritical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage inthe river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next dayarrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall. 

This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence ofupwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence andvaluable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted tohim not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interestingparticulars. 

The factories of trade in this river are, Mr. Aspinwall, Robart. Boatswain, A black chief and trader, above Robart. Mr. Lewis, Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island. Mr. Gordon, Thomas's Island, ditto. 

With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. Aspinwall. 

On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board aschooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tediousand tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having hadcontrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, thepassage is usually performed in a few hours. 

Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced themedical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed. 

In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked onboard the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied bydysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after oneof the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, wearrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by theprovidence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy. 

A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verilybelieve that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received avisitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. ColinMcCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlikereception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequentkind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soonjoined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmateswith Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during ourstay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. AlexanderMcCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, thecapital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from otherquarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of thecolonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political andcommercial point of view. 

The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly consistsin sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and fertilityof the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new sourcesbeing daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these colonies, and their great importance to Great Britain. The following example, extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a strikingdegree. 

In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen andtonnage, there were exported, viz. 

 17, 235 Casks of sugar. 203 Casks coffee. 442 Barrels do. 39, 701 Barrels cotton. 3, 399 Puncheons rum. 336 Hhds. Molasses. 8, 668, 885 lbs. Wt. Coffee. 

Calculating sugar at £20. Per cask, and £3. Per barrel; rum 150 guilders, or £12. 10s. Per puncheon; coffee 1s. Per lb. ; cotton £20. Per bale of 3cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. Per gallon, the total amount willbe upwards of £1, 600, 000. 

This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists areonly wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then dothese colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociationwith the enemy. 

Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of Britishjurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyondthe present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to themerchant, and revenue to the country. 

The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and beingthinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are extremelyvarious in their productions. 

At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defencelessstate, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armedbrig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, toguard an extensive coast, and an immense property. 

In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. May be raised to great amount. Of the latter, an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500, 000 trees had138, 000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. Toeach tree, will reimburse him in the sum of £32, 000. 

Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guianaare of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and itwould be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of greatmagnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are torevert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no meanequivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part ofthe world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction ofthese possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienatedthe minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former governmentdid not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; althoughthey were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain. 

Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, andviewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to FrenchGuiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, fromwhence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of ourinveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves hisarm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of theUnited Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still moremomentous consideration. 

Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the Britishdominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to adecisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment ofhonourable tranquillity. 

On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of myhospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on boardthe ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied byabout 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, theCygnet, commanded by------Maude, Esq. 

Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor inthe harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there untilthe 9th. 

The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is sowell known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me toobtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety ofexperiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in thecolonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their presentcondition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in theircountry within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, "eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described thepullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrancewas instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions ofdelight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded thatthe transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression againsttheir natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to theircountry, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" asudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; butsuppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the sameto me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my countrywith you. "

Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I haveuniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, byhumane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by histransportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation. 

It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had anopportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heardfrom a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravagerof the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this islandfrom the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by aship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from thatunfortunate expedition. 

On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleetunder convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th ofJanuary, 1806. 

CHAPTER XI. 

_Conclusion_. 

I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, thesubstance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of Africa. 

Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and thatof my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that thecommerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among alarge portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country. 

Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British commercialsubject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my sentiments to theRight Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his Majesty's principalsecretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined letter. (Appendix No. I. ) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish of respectableindividuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and sentimentsupon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as possible tomagnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had recourse to theflowing periods of description, preferring a simple narrative of factsformed upon grounds of personal observation. From thence, if my endeavourstend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge the trade of the unitedkingdom, and to increase the export of its manufactures, or lead to moreintelligent interference in behalf of the enslaved African, my design willbe accomplished. 

To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to thepublic its various sources of commerce, would require a union of politicalinterests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply withfull effect. 

The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is arecital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, asseem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the presentcondition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not only frommoral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure principles, agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to instruct andcivilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, will unfold thefertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and will also fulfilthe expectations of a rational humanity, while it might rapidly expelslavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of civilization, andmore natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to demonstrate theeligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from whence acontrolling and administrative authority might employ the resources of theWindward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same time submittingsolely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of annexing Senegal toour possessions on the coast; which of course would tend to the totalexclusion of France from this part of the world. 

I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best calculatedto establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and upon thenations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to influence othertribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, and havepointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would greatlyco-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking. 

The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and anumerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into theinterior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adaptedsystem, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I amfirmly persuaded that success will be the result. 

What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilizationhas to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. Thecondition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class ofslaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to belamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginarycrimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves areprocured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the majorpart of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that themaritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only asmall number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trademay be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many humanbeings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, that it is only by a _gradual abolition_, and a rational system to civilizethe inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be effectuallyabolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first have submittedto political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon practicabletheories, while the sacred rights of property should have been regarded, and well considered. 

This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthyindividuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionistas any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many ofthem, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large aportion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my ownmind, were I to utter any other opinion. 

Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the African, and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great Britain, in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding myself uponthe public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a deliberateinvestigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have recommended inthe foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently perspicuous, I trustthe shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the consideration, that acommercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title to literaryacquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a discerningpublic, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I shall feelthe highest pleasure, and satisfaction. 

Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, Icommit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! maythey tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, andaugment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom!

APPENDIX. 

No. I. 

_To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late principalSecretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the most simpleand ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, anderadicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship introducing the late Billinto Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate Trade_. 

 _London, 5th February, 1807. _

 MY LORD, Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests ofmy country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture toapproach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, Iconceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the presentconjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relativeimportance of its trade to the _United Kingdom_. 

In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity whichis consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importanceattached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements. 

If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the observationsI now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they are the resultof recent personal investigation, and are a summary of remarks detailed injournals of a very excursive observation on the Windward Coast of Africa, and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the chiefs and native tribes ofa widely extended circle, from which I am returned, by the West Indies, inthe late fleet under the convoy of his Majesty's frigate La Seine, andMerlin sloop of war. 

As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to theannexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II. ) which I ventured to address tothe Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1stMay, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from theIsland of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54. 

Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitelybelow its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and thepatronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the propertyengaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of theenemy. 

Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the riverSierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with thegreatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercialpursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, anda multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber ofvarious kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropicalclimates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous toshipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15inches, and may be procured in any quantity. 

A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field tocommercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to thenaturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise akindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, ourcommercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of theglobe. 

It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to thephilanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to thegalling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbaroushostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states. 

Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it isinvolved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of Africancommerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regionsare still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitiousinfidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicablegrounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmoniouscompact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, its customs, and its inveterate barbarism. 

Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through theopposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, andlicentious and hereditary habits. 

To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the manumissionof the African, alluring and progressive alterations are necessary, compatible with his present condition, under the influence of agricultureand mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to commerce, and tonavigation. 

Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before himtheir facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent toobserve the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, heviews the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives theformer, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contractedsphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, hispowers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a moreexalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminousdisplays of enlightened example. 

Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies adaptedto the present state of the country, appear to be the most practicablemeans, and the only sources of remunerative and effective influence: but asthese measures necessarily require population from the parent state, aidedby great pecuniary support, and intelligent superintendance; the patronageof the legislature is indispensibly requisite, to aid individual andcorporate endeavours. 

In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovationupon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly expedient; thechiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their obstinatepredilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, theinveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously removed, and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of policy, andby the prospects of superior gain. 

The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial existence, must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality attached tothe condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the dictates ofpolicy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its stead. 

While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of theslave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on thecontrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation. 

Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and isallowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by theexample of polished society, and by the arts of civilization. 

Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with thoseof morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be eradicated, address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men, are artsrequisite to success. 

This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the Africans, and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the _slave trade_, ascompatible with its _radical abolition_. 

The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in theretirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when _that_ company assumed adefensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous necessity. 

In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us withnew face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, greatguns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring anyof the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make war, and kill these white men. "

This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the wholecountry, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishingslavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious basein the estimation of the governing characters of the country. 

With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which framedthe constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that hadthey adopted the following measures, they would before now have been faradvanced in their scheme of reformation. 

1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce ofthe country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as _wide an extent_ of nativetribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that capacity, under the superintendence of the European colonist; have initiated theminto the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, manufactures, andnavigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of letters, religion, and science, &c. 

3d. Having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their_graduated manumission_ should have proceeded in proportion to theirfidelity and attainments. 

And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as theagents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in theircountry, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious idolatry, From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse withthe interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also aknowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resourcesof the neighbouring nations. 

By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout anextended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have beeninfused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions ofAfrica. 

By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been realized. 

And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization andcommercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, inprocess of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existingcircumstances, and the African's present state of being. 

By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and theclaims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and adaptedto the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith will beinvigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption through aless polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the refined artsof society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature regenerated, his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened existence, and hisenslaved customs make their natural exit, together with the slave trade, from his shores and his country. 

How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence ofenlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a Britishgovernment to effect!

In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. Willremunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the naturalrights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to humanity, which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the admirationof, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is abandonedby Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other nations, who, _to my personal knowledge_, are _now_ directing their views towards itscommerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, and who will, no doubt, seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative and important; while theAfrican's chains will still clink in the ears of the civilized world, hisfetters be rivetted more closely, and his miserable fate be consigned tothe uncertainty of human events. 

Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly uninfluenced, and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present opinions of men inEurope upon this interesting subject, as I have just arrived in England, and have been excluded for some time past from any other scene but that ofpersonal observation in Africa. 

I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the momentousquestion upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I haveconceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give everyinformation to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a moredetailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready tounfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am, My Lord, Your Lordship's most obedient humble servant, JOSEPH CORRY. 

No. II. 

 _To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, _ _referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick. _

 _Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa, _ _May 1st, 1806. _

 MY LORDS, That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for thesafe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on thepresent state of the African trade, and its dependencies. 

My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the Britishcapital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount ofexport, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources ofintelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to theUnited Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection. 

In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to theestimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page54. )

Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export _only_ is hereunder review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in thenecessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on theCoast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms anotherarticle of great importance. 

During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, 660slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen intothe hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises offactories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of 35, 000_l_. Atthe computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an equitable average:moreover, about one hundred resident free people have been involved in thisviolence, of incalculable importance, and ground of indefinite claims fromthe natives. 

When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolumentderived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body ofmerchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficientconsequence to justify the expense of _adequate naval protection_. 

British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, areconsequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for anextension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. Theprincipal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus propertythey have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentousrisque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy. 

With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance andwatchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind yourLordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite beingtaken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent ofcoast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; anexample of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected byCommodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many Britishmerchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African risques. 

From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards anabolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defenceof the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; butwhen upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumeratedappendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated andimpressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for aremuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation. 

Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of thissubject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to suggest toyour Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more adequate andpermanent naval force for the protection of the trade and coast of Africa, I am, My Lord, Your Lordship's most obedient devoted humble servant, JOSEPH CORRY. 

No. III. 

When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the press, the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, hadnot come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I havesince received from the coast of Africa. 

The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide intosections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, andit may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoingremarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa. 

SECTION I. 

_Of the Purrah_. 

Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists inthe vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixedtribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. An institution of a religiousand political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds itsmembers to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yieldan implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the _Purrah_. 

As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently difficultto procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply the want oforal and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had from anintelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am neverthelessconvinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the followingparticulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part of themysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with theutmost reserve. 

The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of asovereign, whose superior, or _head man_, commands by his council, absolutesubmission and authority from the subordinate councils and members. 

To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years ofage; and to be a member of the grand _purrah_, fifty years; and the oldestmember of the subordinate _purrahs_ form those of the sovereign _purrahs_. 

No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility ofmembers, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiationinto the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from whichfemales are entirely excluded. 

Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidatepasses through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient isemployed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage. 

The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed forhis habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he isimmediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men masked, and he must observe an uniform silence. 

Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them inviolatefrom the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if indiscretion temptsany one to enter, a miserable exit is the result. 

When the trials are all gone through, _initiation_ follows; the candidateis first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of the_purrah_ of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the _sovereignpurrah_. 

During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with dreadfulhowlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by conflagrationsand flames. 

This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes anddelinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates asa mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Itsinterference is generally attended with effect, more particularly ifaccompanied by a threat of vengeance from the _purrah_; and a suspension ofhostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined who is theaggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign _purrah_, as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive necessary to enforcetheir judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a pillage of somedays. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the night to departfrom the place where the sovereign _purrah_ is assembled, previouslydisguising their persons with hideous objects, and dividing themselves intodetachments, armed with torches and warlike weapons; they arrive at thevillage of the condemned, and proclaim with tremendous yells the decree ofthe sovereign _purrah_. The affrighted victims of superstition andinjustice are either murdered or made captives, and no longer form a peopleamong the tribes. 

The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of thedecrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, andthe sovereign _purrah_; the latter share is again subdivided among thewarriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as arecompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude. 

The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal confederacy, when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are subjected toimmediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their secretrecesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion. 

Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and thenatives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: theyconsider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the _bad spirit_, ordevil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to human power. Ofcourse the _purrah_ encourages these superstitious prejudices, whichestablish their authority and respect, as the members are numerous, and areknown to each other by certain signs and expressions. The Mandingos havealso their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their delusions andexorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision. 

The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of_purrah_, which gives its members great consequence among them; but theirceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound byhorrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight indisseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their inventionappears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries. 

The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called _bunda_, noticed inpage 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of penitence issuperintended by an elderly woman, called _bunda_ woman; and fathers evenconsign their wives and daughters to her investigation when they becomeobjects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an unreserved confessionof every crime committed by themselves, or to which they are privy inothers. Upon their admission they are besmeared with white clay, whichobliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are solemnly abjuredto make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied with, they arethreatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The general result isa discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their fears ofpunishment are aroused, which the _bunda_ woman makes known to the peoplewho assemble in the village or town where the _bunda_ is instituted. If sheis satisfied with the confession, the individual is dismissed from the_bunda_, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. An act of oblivion is passedrelative to her former conduct; but where the crime of witchcraft isincluded, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those accused as partnersof her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by _red water_, redeemthemselves by slaves, or go into slavery themselves. 

When the _bunda_ woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she makes theobject sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for thepurpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her drinkin proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the bowels, which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. Incantations andcharms are then resorted to by the _bunda_ woman, to ascertain what theconcealed crime is, and after a _decent_ period employed in thisbuffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the imagination ormalignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity. 

During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud inany town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of musicto be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilaritypervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance. 

Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death. 

In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power ofthese extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but theirdeliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and theobjects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilatingstroke of death terminates their mortal career. 

It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, andsuperstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of theequator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia andEgypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed betweenthe eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent. 

SECTION II. 

_Of the_ Termite, Termes, _or_ Bug a Bug, _as it is called by the Nativesupon the Windward Coast of Africa. _

Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the _termite, termes_, or _bug abug_, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are derived fromthe investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of Tasso, attachedto Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly all the westerncountries of Africa. 

The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfullydisplayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmostdevastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furnitureand merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet theyanswer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity ofputrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates. 

Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of anattentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in theirbuildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, isincredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king andqueen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was byaccident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African _bug a bug, Termes_, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, asI have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may beallowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in threestates of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, andare in appearance very different. 

In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six littlefeet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive noeyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state theysupply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricatetheir pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be calledlabourers. 

In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away alldescriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which theyotherwise occasion. 

Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity andsolidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when acomparative dimension of size is considered. 

They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from 10to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feetsquare in the base. 

For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of theirabode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like thesurrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interiorfrom the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. Theinterior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, withamazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royalresidence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate theirsubjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupiesthe attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of thehill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearanceabove the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugarloaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base;the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces asthey proceed, until the whole is formed into one. 

This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against externalviolence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish thehatching of the eggs, and the young. 

The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormousdimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, butinferior in size to the queen. 

The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by aninnumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched invarious forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries andmagazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these arecontiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of thequeen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartmentsmultiplied. 

The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central royalresidence, that of the _common father_ and _mother_ of the community, forman intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, separated by chambersand galleries, communicating with each other, and continuing towards thesurface of the pyramid; and being arched, they support each other, and areuniformly larger towards the centre. 

The second order of _termes_ are like the first, blind and active, but theyundergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they are muchlarger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to half aninch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the mouth isarmed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably enlarged. Theymay properly be called the nurses and warriors of the kingdom; they urgetheir fellow subjects in the _first_ state to labour, they inspect theconstruction of the interior apartments, repel all attacks from enemies, and devour them with fury; and may be considered as the standing army ofthe state. 

In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measureabout 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparentwings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, itis indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period theyprocreate their species. 

They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; andshould the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are foundthe next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, moreparticularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence atthis stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morningafter they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased;at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and theseinsects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two firstperiods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are huntedby various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions getinto a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation. 

Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks arecovered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them intheir calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which theyconsider as a delicious morsel. 

A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them arefound by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over thesurface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms andcommunities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, theirwings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolenceand luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions nowundergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augmentsby degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her twofirst stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet isdiminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds threeinches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrixis almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by herattendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries. 

The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientificnaturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the naturalhistory of this little animal that would amply reward his investigationupon the different circumstances attending its existence. 

Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance toeach other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but theyare not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singularcircumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourersnor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneousvaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and whentheir covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful howquickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in theevening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning. 

When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general devastationwhich attends these little animals, they are by the two first specieselected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before described, around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are erected. 

That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode inhouses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guardagainst, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and belowthe foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, whichin African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they formcavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of shipsby the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the_termites_ do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely wisearrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system ofcreation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the_vermis_, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical climates, and the _termite_, possess so many destructive qualities, yet these veryproperties serve the most important purposes and designs. Scarcely anything perishable on land escapes the _termite_, or in water, the worm; andit is from thence evident, that these animals are designed by nature to ridboth of incumbrances, which in tropical climates would be attended withputrefaction and disease. 

The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, uponopening and investigating the hills of the _termites_, is, the conduct ofthe armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a pick-axe, orhoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round the breach, asif to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the attack, and thenumbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it continues; partiesfrequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole community, and thenrush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period they are repletewith rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, and is similarto the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in contact with them, they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are literally torn inpieces. When the violence against their habitation ceases, they retire intotheir nests, as if nothing had happened, and the observer willinstantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a burthen of mortar intheir mouths, which they stick upon the breach with wonderful facility andquickness; and although thousands and millions are employed, yet they neverembarrass the proceedings of each other, but gradually fill up the chasm. While the labourers are thus employed, the greatest part of the soldiersretire, a few only being discernible, who evidently act as overseers, andat intervals of about a minute, make the vibrating noise before described, which is immediately answered by an universal hiss from the labourers, andat this signal they redouble their exertions with encreased activity. 

In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves tothe observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royalhabitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittleclay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examinedseparately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, thedemolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in theinvestigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; forwhile the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers areengaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards theroyal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forciblystruck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as itis capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has aconstant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I securedit in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned theircharge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stoppingat every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive theircommands. 

Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, beforethe next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and theirapartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a thincovering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which eithercold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued withunremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine state. 

Besides these species, there are also the _marching termites_, of anencreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread devastationin their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only accidental, it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at all; but ifwe form a conclusion from the immense number of _termites_ which everywhereabound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that their procreation isendless and unceasing. 

When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these remarksupon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to theObservations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some doubtas to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned_naturalist_ only can ascertain the economy of the _termite_, or _bug abug_, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these imperfect andgeneral remarks. 

SECTION III. 

_Of the Cameleon_. 

The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the lizard:the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches isascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rarephoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion ofair at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without anykind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which areperhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of thecreation. 

I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary propertiesin this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved state. 

The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour;and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surroundingobjects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, orotherwise. 

From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or wheninterrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external objects, the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form underwent avisible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and when in astate of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the branchesof some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would appear thatits liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are indispensibletowards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its skin, in aperfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees and grass, in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be discovered at allwithout a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for a length of time, and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to loll out itstongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the little insectsthat are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but it has anattractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them continuallyfloating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any other space. When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws it ininstantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all theinsects within its reach are taken in the snare. 

That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I ampersuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, whenit immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so asvisibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, theyexpell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black;but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance. 

The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of variouscolours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I visitedthem I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but uniformlywere of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they alwaysassume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could succeedin making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. The skinof the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and appears to theobserver similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; and it may beowing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its colours andsize with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be considered asa more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting itself atpleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform manner, whenin health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as to reduceits dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar organization issuch, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so generally throughoutevery part of its body, distends and projects even its eyes andextremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting becomesuddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it becamenothing but a skeleton of skin and bone. 

The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of itsback becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, andapparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, atpleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a mostextraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, whichinvites the minutest research of the naturalist. 

To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that thecameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visitedmy captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards meso as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation andimprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found themin continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursionsbecame more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when theirpowers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and werenever again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The onewhich I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwardsof two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it inthe thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its greencolour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, anddetermined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions toexclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to anotherseries of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell asacrifice to my curiosity. 

The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable singularity;they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given it to supplythe want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre by alengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. Thiscovering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they appearto be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is alwayscentral to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, independant ofeach other; one eye will be in motion while the other is fixed, one lookingbehind while the other is looking before, and another directed above whileits companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes move in everypossible direction, independant of each other, without moving the head, which is closely compacted with the shoulders. 

By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it perceiveswith quickness the insects and flies, which it is always entrapping by itsglutinous tongue. 

Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well worthythe attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have said Ihave observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a veryimperfect detail of its natural history. 

SECTION IV. 

_Of the Interment of the Dead. _

The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted withgreat singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of condolence. 

The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around it, and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colouruniversally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaubthemselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the mostdisgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the samefeature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineatedwith great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a mosthideous appearance during the season of mourning. 

When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, ofthe manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laidout in state. 

The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after oneof the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which thedeceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remainsamong his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants suchand such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he isaccompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in _makingcry, _ or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The followingnight the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of mirth andglee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; and if thedeceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant acts oflamentation continue for months together. 

_On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. Of the Africans. _

Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly introduced, with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other timessavage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and it maywith propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in dancing;for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with songs, andmusic; and I have often listened to them with attention and pleasure, during the tranquil evenings of the dry season. 

Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same song, and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmoniccorrespondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villageschaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatestattention and pleasure. 

Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany theceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is theprincipal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, whichis covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with thefingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time inall their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: butall the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musiciansthat can be conceived. 

They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they call_kilara_. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician performsupon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the _kilara_ betweenhis thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in a manner similar tothe playing on the harp in this country. 

They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about twofeet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call_balafau_. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits ofhard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are connectedby cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. Themusician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered withskin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise. 

Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants ofthe courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the mostextravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also thepanders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, andare well received every where, and live by public contribution. 

SECTION V. 

_Concluding Observations. _

It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to theWindward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A tradein raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles ofwax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. Might be greatly increased. Substancesfor making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, poultry, different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and roots, abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of life:and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the extensiveculture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate arepeculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are manysituations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable productionmight undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection. 

In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others forbuilding, viz. _todso, worsmore, _ and a fine yellow wood, called_barzilla_, the _black_ and the _white mangrove_, boxwood of a superiorquality, _conta_, a remarkable fine wood for building, and various kinds ofmahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions. 

It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the musicalinstruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by them_kilara_, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from the sizeof a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every purposealmost of household utensils. 

They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon theoutside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such asbirds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c. 

In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the worldwhich England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries areunknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wiselyinterfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants. 

The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our commerce, and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and wiselyadapted to the _present condition_ of the country, for the _hastyconclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its presentstate, meet the views and objects of rational humanity_. Is the UnitedKingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary has shutthe door of commerce against us in every direction where his influence anddictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and versatile in itsnatural productions and resources, to contingencies, and to the grasp ofother nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise policy! Let civillaws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in behalf of theNegro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and let thebeneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture andcommercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the mosteffectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior. 

The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal haveaccomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I ampersuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturinginterests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeplyto deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, andauspicious to the views of France. 

Without doubt the ability and energies of the _present administration_ willbe directed to avert these calamities; and amidst the _importantdiliberations_ which now occupy their attention, the condition of Africa, the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of the earth, and therelations involved with it, will not be overlooked by them. 

 A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. 

|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |TIMMANEE|------------|-------------------|--------------------|----------------|One |Ben |Kiring |Pen|Two |Yar |Faring |Prung|Three |Niet |Shooking |Tisas|Four |Nianett |Nari |Pánlee|Five |Gurum |Shooli |Tomát|Six |Gurum ben |Shinie |Rókin|Seven |Gurum yar |Shulifiring |Dayring|Eight |Gurum Niet |Shulimashukúng |Daysas|Nine |Gurum Niant |Shulimang |Daynga|Ten |Fue |Fooang |Tofot|Twenty |Nill |Mahwinia |Tofot Marung|Thirty |Fanever |Tongashukúng |Tofot Masas|Forty |Nianett Fue |Tonganani |Tofot Manlu|Fifty |Guaum Fue |Tongashulang |Tofot Tomat|Sixty |Gurum ben Fue |Tongashini |Tofot Rokin|Seventy |Gurum yar Fue |Tongashulifiring |Tofot Dayring|Eighty |Gurum Niet Fue |Tongashulimashakung |Tofot Daysas|Ninety |Gurum Nianet Fue |Tongashulimanáne |Tofot Danygah|One Hundred |Temer |Kimé |Tofot Tofot|I | |Emtang |Eto or Munga|Thou | |Etang |Moota or Moonga|He | |Atang |Otto or Ken|It | |Atang |Ree|We | |Mackutang |Sitta or Shang|Ye | |Wotang |Angsha|They | |Etang |Angna|God |Tallah | ||The Devil |Ghiné | ||Heaven |Assaman | |

|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |MANDINGO|------------|--------------------|---------------|------------------|The Sun |Burham Safara |Shuge |Teelee|The Moon |Burham Safara Lion |Kige |Koro|Gold |Ourous | |Sanoo|Father |Bail |Taffe |Fa|My Father |Samma Bail | ||Mother |De |Inga |Ba|My Mother |Samma De | ||Man |Gour | |Mo or Fato|Woman |Diguén | |Mooséa|Brother |Rak Gour |Tarakunjia |Ba Ding Kea|My Brother |Samma Rak Gour | ||Sister |Rak Diguén |Magine |Ba Ding Mooséa|My Sister |Samma Rak Diguén | ||Head |Bop |Hung Hungji |Roon|My Head |Samma Bop | ||Tongue |Lamin |Ning Ningje |Ning|Mouth |Guémin |Dé |Da|Nose |Bauane |Nieue |Nung|Bread |Bourou | |Munko|Water |Dock | |Gee|Teeth |Guené | ||Bowels |Bouthet | ||Belly |Birr | |Kono|Fingers |Baram | |Boalla Ronding|Arm |Lokoó | |Boalla Same for hand. |Hair |Cayor | ||The Beard |Jekim |Habe de Habe |Bora|White |Toulha é |Fihe |Qui|Black |Jolof |Foro |Fing|Good |Bachna |Fang |Bettie|Bad |Bahout |Niaake |Jox

|ENGLISH |SOOSEE|-------------------------------------|------------------------|Elephant |Siti|Camelion |Kolungji|Horse |Shuoe|Cow |Ninkgegine|Goat |Shee|Sheep |Juké|Leopard |Shuko she|Alligator |Shonge|Parrot |Kalle|Shark |Sark|Honey |Kume|White ant, termite, &c. |Bugabuge|(or Bug a bug) ||The Sea |Baa|Earth |Bohe|Knife |Finé|Shirt |Doma|Trowsers |Wangtanji|Brass pan |Tang kue|House |Bankhi|Door |Dé nadé|Day |Hi|Night |Qué|Health |Maié langfe|Sickness |Fura|Pain |Whondi, Whona fe|Love |Whuli|Hatred |Niaahú|Road |Kirá|Idle |Kobi|Hot |Furi, furihe|Cold |Himbeli|What are you doing? |Emung she ra falama?|Tornado |Tuliakbegle|Which way are you going? |Esigama mung kirara|To trade |Sera Shofe|Make haste |Arâ bafe mafurì|To Kill |Fuka fe|To Quarrel |Gerì shofe|To Sing |Shige sháfe|To beat the drum |Fare mokafé|Have you done? |Ebanta gei?|Are you afraid? |Egahama?|He is not yet gone |A mú siga sending|Stand still |Tife ira hara|Run |Gee fé|Leap, or Jump |Tubang fe|Have you slept well? |Eheo keefang?|Do you understand Soosee? |Esusee whi mema?|I am hungry |Kaame em shukuma|Eat |Dong|Let us go |Woem hasiga|Will you go with me? |Esigáma em fokhera|I have no money |Náfuli muna embe|How much do you want? |E' wama ierekong|Sit down |Dokha|How do you do |E'mung keé?|Very well |Em melang hekeefang|Give me some rice? |Málungdundundifeemma|Here |Be|What is your name? |Ehili mungkee?|I love you |Efanghe emma|If you want rice I will give you some|Ha ewama málunghong eminda fuma éma|Let us go together. |Meekufiring ha siga

|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF|----------------------------|-----------------------|Goat |Phas|Sheep |Zedre|Wolf |Bouki|Elephant |Guìé|Ox |Nack|Fish |Guienn|Horse |Ghénapp|Butter |Dión|Milk |Sán|Tiger |Shaglé|Iron |Vina|Millet |Doughoul|Quiver |Smagalla|To dance |Faik|To sing |Ouhai|To-day |Thei|To-morrow |Elleck, or Mek|Yesterday |Demb|A tree |Garallun|To drink |Nán|To eat |Leck ou leckamm|She is remarkably handsome |Sama rafitnalóll|Good day |Dhiarakio|Good day Sir |Dhiarakio-Samba|Good night |Fhanandiam|Come here? |Kahihfie|Yes |Ouaa|No |Dhiett|How do you do? |Dhya mésa?|Very well |Dhya medal|Buy |Ghuyendé|Sell |Ghuyal|Take |Diapol|I will |Benguéna|I thank you |Guérum nalá|A bar of Iron |Baravin|What did you say? |Loung a houche|Can you speak Joliff? |Dígenga Jolliff|How much did that cost? |Niatar ladiar?|Give me |Maniman|I love you from my heart |Sépenata tié somo koll

|ENGLISH |TEMMANEE |BULLOM|-----------------------|------------------------|----------------|How do you do? |Currea |Lemmoó|I return you service, |Bá |Bá|or salute | ||Are you well? |Too pay |Appay wa?|Very well |Tai ó tai |Pay chin lin|What is your name? |Gnay see mooa? |Illil é móa?|Give me a little rice |Song mee pilla pittun |Knamée opillay| | |otayk|Yes |A |A|No |Deh |Be|Is your father at home?|Pa ka moo oyá roshaytee?|Appa moway lore| | |ko killayée|He is |Oéeree |Way lorre|What do you want? |Ko nyaymaee? |Yeng yayma?|Why do you do so? |Ko sum kingyotteeay |Yaywum layngalla|I beg your pardon |A marree moo |Lum marra mó

|ENGLISH |TEMMANEK |BULLOM|--------------------|--------------------|-----------------------|I love you |Ee bóter moo |A marra mo|Let me alone |Tuoy mee |Y'nfolmee|Let me go |Teer amee |Y'mmelmee|Sit down |Yeera |Y'nchal|I am hungry |Durabang mee |Nrik mi a me|Shut the door |Kanta kayraree |Ingkunta fong fólootay|Will you go with me?|Yintoo kó pey a mee?|Mo mee ko day ree|Where are you going?|Ray mó kóay. |Lomo koa|Here |Unno |Kakée or ha|Forward |Kihdee |Ebol|Backward |Rarung |Wayling|To-day |Taynung |Eenang|To-morrow |Anéenang |Beng|Sometimes |Olokko ollon |Lokkó poom|And |Ray |Na|Good bye |Mang peearó |Heepeeáró

** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve togive some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I haveunfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary ofthe Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, whichI had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader longresident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have beenobliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspondcorrectly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nationsare of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regretexceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of thosenations more at large.